This is only a preview of the July 2023 issue of Silicon Chip. You can view 38 of the 104 pages in the full issue, including the advertisments. For full access, purchase the issue for $10.00 or subscribe for access to the latest issues. Articles in this series:
Items relevant to "Dynamic NFC/RFID Tag":
Articles in this series:
Items relevant to "Reciprocal Frequency Counter":
Items relevant to "Pi Pico Thermal Camera":
Items relevant to "Railway Carriage Uncoupler":
Items relevant to "Replacing Vibrators, Pt2":
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JULY 2023
ISSN 1030-2662
07
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Contents
Vol.36, No.07
July 2023
16 Charging Electric Vehicles
There are many ways to charge an electric vehicle (EV), and some charging
stations only work on certain vehicles. With the amount of EVs increasing
each year, it’s important to know about the various charging systems,
connectors and charging rates. Read this article to find out.
By Dr David Maddison
Technology feature
31 VL6180X Rangefinding Module
This module uses infrared (IR) light to accurately sense the proximity
of objects from 0mm to over 100mm away. It additionally can measure
ambient light levels using another one of its sensors.
By Jim Rowe
Using electronic modules
44 Electronics Magazines in Aus
Jamieson (Jim) Rowe was an important figure at both Radio TV & Hobbies
(RTV&H) and Electronics Australia (EA). Here is his journey through both
magazines over 40-odd years.
By Jim Rowe
History feature
34 Dynamic NFC/RFID Tag
Using a very basic PCB (or even none at all), you can create your own
custom NFC tag which can then be programmed to contain text, a URL,
business card details and other types of information.
By Tim Blythman
NFC/RFID project
52 Reciprocal Frequency Counter
With an operating frequency from 10mHz to 10MHz, the Reciprocal
Frequency Counter is designed to quickly measure low-frequency signals
with accuracy. It is powered from three AA cells, providing approximately 24
hours of battery life.
By Charles Kosina
Test equipment project
62 Pi Pico Thermal Camera
This DIY Thermal Camera is simple to build, requiring just three modules
and some smaller components. You can use the Thermal Camera to
identify overheating components in a circuit, or to find poor thermal seals in
buildings, among other uses.
By Kenneth Horton
Raspberry Pi Pico project
68 Railway Carriage Uncoupler
Build this mechanism to automatically uncouple carriages from a model
locomotive or another carriage. It can be hidden under a section of the
track and activated by a switch. The design is relatively simple and uses a
servo-based mechanical system that you can make yourself.
By Les Kerr
Model railway project
Page 34
Dynamic
NFC Tag
Page 58
Reciprocal
Frequency Counter
Page 62
Pi Pico-based
Thermal Camera
2
Editorial Viewpoint
5
Mailbag
59
Circuit Notebook
77
Subscriptions
78
Vintage Radio
89
Online Shop
92
Serviceman’s Log
99
Ask Silicon Chip
1. Object recognition using an Arduino
2. Charging a battery with a load
3. Reducing Flexitimer power consumption
Replacing Vibrators, Pt2 by Dr Hugo Holden
103
Market Centre
104
Advertising Index
104
Notes & Errata
SILICON
SILIC
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher/Editor
Nicholas Vinen
Technical Editor
John Clarke – B.E.(Elec.)
Technical Staff
Jim Rowe – B.A., B.Sc.
Bao Smith – B.Sc.
Tim Blythman – B.E., B.Sc.
Advertising Enquiries
(02) 9939 3295
adverts<at>siliconchip.com.au
Regular Contributors
Allan Linton-Smith
Dave Thompson
David Maddison – B.App.Sc. (Hons 1),
PhD, Grad.Dip.Entr.Innov.
Geoff Graham
Associate Professor Graham Parslow
Dr Hugo Holden – B.H.B, MB.ChB.,
FRANZCO
Ian Batty – M.Ed.
Phil Prosser – B.Sc., B.E.(Elec.)
Cartoonist
Louis Decrevel
loueee.com
Founding Editor (retired)
Leo Simpson – B.Bus., FAICD
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Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd has the right to edit, reproduce in electronic form, and communicate these letters. This also applies to submissions to “Ask Silicon Chip”, “Circuit Notebook” and “Serviceman’s Log”.
Pegasus ‘flying car’ gains airworthiness certificate
Time has flown since the Avalon Air Show, and the Pegasus “police” flying car has also taken flight!
We are pleased to inform you that in mid-April of this
year, Pegasus’ law enforcement flying car, which we exhibited at Avalon [covered in the May issue – Editor], received
a certificate of airworthiness from CASA as an experimental aircraft. This milestone enables Pegasus to proceed with
commercialising this model in Australia and globally.
The Pegasus team has ambitions to eventually obtain
US Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) airworthiness
registration as well, an achievement that would be a world
first for fully VTOL and roadable flying cars. FAA certification would position Pegasus flying cars for the growing
global market, which Morgan Stanley expects to be worth
nearly US$1 trillion by 2040.
The engineering team is hard at work creating Pegasus’
four-seater Air Taxi prototype with a target completion of
year-end 2023.
Pegasus’ plans to commercialise the Air Taxi from 2024
onward coincide with CASA’s milestones on Remotely
Piloted Aircraft Systems (RPAS) and Advanced Air Mobility (AAM) Strategic Regulatory Roadmap. That’s particularly the case regarding its near-term focus on establishing
aircraft safety and operational standards that support the
growth of air taxi networks as a new mode of transportation.
As a local manufacturer of flying cars and an active member of Aviation Aerospace Australia (AAA), a leading industry association, Pegasus is keen to support CASA’s development of this critical regulatory framework.
Having completed a fair amount of test flying and driving lately, Pegasus has also created some fresh new visual
material, including both video and stills. These feature the
law enforcement flying car in flight, driving, parking, and
even filling up at a suburban petrol station! Some examples
are available at the link: siliconchip.au/link/abm2
Debbie Thomas, Pegasus International Group Pty Ltd,
Mount Waverley, Vic.
Victory achieved over SMD Trainer kit
I am writing for three reasons. The first is to congratulate you on producing a magazine that is always interesting. I was a reader of RTV&H when a teenager in the fifties,
which started my interest in electronics.
The second is to thank Tim Blythman for creating the
SMD Trainer Board. I purchased a kit from Silicon Chip
Shop and managed to install everything except LED5,
having committed, I imagine, every error in the SMD mistakes book.
With my shaky hands and ageing eyesight, I shied away
siliconchip.com.au
from projects with SMD devices because I did not think I
could successfully solder them. I found that I needed some
additional tools to deal with the M1005 and M0603 parts.
I made some probes from sewing needles with the eye
end fitted into plastic handles recovered from old interdental brushes (‘Picksters’), as even very fine tipped jewellers’
tweezers were too bulky and unwieldy.
I also discovered that fixing the bandolier tape to my
workspace with tiny beads of Blu-Tack allowed me to peel
back the tape covering strip and expose a single chip at a
time without firing the chips across the room.
Also, using a tiny (chip-sized) bead of flux gel on the tip
of a probe allowed me to pick up a chip from the bandolier
tape, transport it to the PCB and then roughly place it onto
blobs of flux gel on the pads, where surface tension was
enough to detach the chip from the end of the probe. Then
it was relatively easy to nudge the chip to its precise position with the aid of a USB microscope and a clean probe.
I also soldered the M0603 chips by tinning the pads with a
tiny amount of solder, removing the protective coating from
the track immediately adjacent to the pads, pre-tinning it,
then applying heat from my soldering iron to the exposed
tinned copper track.
Once the chip was in place, I followed up by holding it
with a probe and touching the end and pad together with
the soldering iron tip.
I realise that this technique is not practical for a realworld project. Even the 0.3mm soldering iron tip is like
the smoking end of a baseball bat compared to these tiny
parts. It seems that solder does not readily flow onto the end
contacts of some SMD LEDs, but flows well onto resistors.
Subsequently, the bandolier tape can be carefully
removed from its Blu-Tack fixing, complete with any
remaining chips.
The third reason is to thank you for sending me more
M0603 LEDs after I managed to lose a few. I was able to
complete the SMD Trainer, even if LED4 is a red M1608
type instead of a white M1005, due to my destroying or
losing most of those before realising I needed better tools.
David Jane, Umina Beach, NSW.
Welding with medical implants
The June 2023 issue of Silicon Chip contained a Mailbag
letter regarding welding with a medical implant (page 8).
I have an Implantable Cardioverter Defibrillator (ICD) in
my left chest and made a considered decision not to use
an electric welder based on the information provided by
the device handbook and my doctor.
The manufacturer does not recommend the use of welding equipment and the handbook details 10 considerations
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2023 5
before welding. Importantly, it advises users to consult
their doctor first.
I am unaware of the composition of my ICD case, but it
is clear on X-rays, with the internal electronics visible. I
doubt that the case is a Faraday Cage, and regardless, there
are three probes going to my heart.
The surgeon who implanted the device is both a cardiologist and a cardiac electrophysiologist to whom I was
specifically referred as he is an ‘electrical specialist’. He
provided advice on electromagnetic radiation.
Other devices considered in the ICD handbook are
chainsaws with internal combustion engines and radio
transmitters.
I have become aware of other sources of possible danger to ICDs, namely mobile phones carried in the shirt top
left pocket and keyless entry systems on cars that have
transmitters in the centre console and doors. But, there are
many more potentially hazardous systems that emit electromagnetic radiation.
Peter Johnston, Merimbula, NSW.
A small error in my letter last month
I made a mistake in my letter on “Confusion over transistor neutralisation”, published in the June issue (Mailbag,
p10). In the third paragraph, where I referred to “drainsource feedback in an untuned circuit”, I should have written “drain-gate feedback”. Thanks to Ross Stell for reading
the letter and informing me about the error.
Ian Batty, Rosebud, Vic.
Pumped hydro is not practical
In his book “Australia on the Brink: Avoiding Environmental Ruin”, Ian Lowe says that we will need fifty pumped
hydro storage dams between Adelaide and Cairns if we are
to reduce the intermittency of solar and wind.
Can you imagine having fifty dams? That means fifty valleys flooded, with a dam up in the high levels, and another
dam in the low levels to act as a reservoir so the water can
be pumped back up again. I believe people will object to
even one more dam, let alone fifty.
Also, if you happen to live below the dam, there is the
risk of it collapsing. The worst fatalities in the world came
from hydro energy when a dam collapsed in China, killing
tens of thousands of people. I am convinced that the only
answer is nuclear power.
You may be interested in the letter sent to the Prime
Minister from a 16-year-old lad, Will Shackel. He is now
starting a campaign under the heading “Nuclear for Australia”, encouraging us to make the sensible decision. Here
are some links:
• www.facebook.com/nuclearforaustralia
• siliconchip.au/link/abm3
Dick Smith, Terrey Hills, NSW.
Honesty in energy generation costs
I have to agree with your excellent editorial in the April
issue highlighting Dick Smith’s views on the viability of
renewable energy systems. Except, it should not be based
on the monetary cost analysis but rather on energy costs.
Too long ago, in the mid-1990s, I wrote my final paper
for a physics/technology-based social science major on
this subject. The premise for the paper was the effect on
the West Australian grid of renewable energy technology
6
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
and the consequences of subsidies. Coal-fired power generation was used as the base load, using production costs
provided to me confidentially by Western Power.
Incidentally, the cost per kWh compared realistically to
the nominal design costs from the 500MW generator sets
installed at Liddell Power station. These generators were
made during my engineering training at a large electrical
engineering company in the UK in the 1960s. It is hard for
me to realise today that their 50-year design life has expired!
All the factors mentioned in the editorial were considered in my paper, and many more, on an interactive variable spreadsheet for various renewable scenarios. The outcome of the cost analysis was terrible for renewables, the
worst being solar farms. The best option in sunny WA is
home solar with very large area collectors.
Back then, grid-connected solar arrays had collector area
limitations in WA. The peak load coincided with the peak
solar output and reduced the need for gas turbines and
their higher cost per kWh, something I believe has now
happened in excess.
The effect of subsidies and similar carbon-reducing
schemes can only be described as economic sleight-of-hand
masking the reality of energy physics.
I did not consider batteries and pumped hydro; however, they are not power generators and perform a function intrinsic to a fossil- or nuclear-powered system, so
they become an effective load, subtracting from the available dispatchable energy, apart from the massive initial
energy investment.
Today, I see the ramifications of those early findings playing out. Most grids worldwide with 15-20% renewables
that support industrial loads show instability in terms of
economics and supply reliability.
I did not write a conclusion to my paper, only a secondary analysis. My results were so dismal for renewables,
as were the faces of most fellow students when I gave the
obligatory talk on my project; ‘green fever’ was high at that
time with many young students.
At the time, I did not know what to conclude, as during
the writing of my project, I developed the beginnings of
methods to describe the performance of different energy
systems relative to each other. However, at that time, I was
reluctant to stick my neck out, and I had limited time to
finish my work; something I now regret.
You cannot analyse the physical benefit of an energy
system to society by monetary economic analysis. It has
to be all in physical terms, as the energy economy drives
all other economies, including all life on Earth.
A proper analysis would require appropriate mathematical reasoning based on the fundamental energy principles
in the biological systems underpinning our human energy
supply, agriculture, and industry.
To me, the AEMO and associated QANGOs (quasi-
governmental organisations) are engaged in a hit-and-miss
journey to a green energy reality. The rationale is manipulated and misdirected by powerful, deluded and naive
political forces that are highly biased in terms of conventional economics, both external and internal. An exploitative commercial power industry adds to the high trauma.
There is a simple bottom line to this energy quandary. We
have been at the renewables game for around thirty years.
If renewables had a superior performance envelope to the
fossil/nuclear systems, steam and gas turbines would be
8
Silicon Chip
only found in museums today. History shows that superior energy systems are rapidly adopted.
Electric energy has a huge multiplier effect. Even a small
drop in availability will have a significant impact on society.
In normal economic terms, cost and gain are approximately
inverse. The lower the gain of the system, the higher the
cost of the dispatchable energy, as more of the generated
energy has to be kept to keep the system running.
The only solution I see is the coming of age of fusion
energy systems. The gain factor for fusion energy systems
is currently only just above one in laboratory conditions.
It needs to be much greater for fusion to become a viable
energy source, so society can still enjoy the energy freedom
we have attained in only the last 150 years due to fossil/
fission nuclear generation systems.
Kelvin Jones, Tasmania.
Comment: the cost of generating electricity from the sun
or wind has dramatically decreased since the mid-1990s.
However, the problem of the mismatch between when power
is available and when it is required due to the natural variability of such generation has yet to be fully solved. Batteries appear to be the only real answer, but it’s unclear if
the required capacity can be achieved at a reasonable cost
and with a sufficient lifespan.
Substitute SD card socket for GPS Tracker
I built the GPS Tracker (November 2013; siliconchip.
au/Article/5449) many years ago, but recently, the regulator packed it in. As well as repairing it, I decided to build
another one. I purchased what parts I could from Silicon
Chip; the part I had trouble with was the SD card socket.
Altronics no longer stocks that item, so I purchased element14 Cat 2847872. It is very similar, but the card detect
(CD) and write protect (WP) pins differ. I managed to solder it to the PCB; it turned out that CD pin could be connected; WP would have needed a flying wire. Since it is
not used, I just grounded the pin on the micro.
Paul Cahill, Balgal Beach, Qld.
Comment: the problem of what to do with designs that used
the now discontinued Altronics P5720 SD card holder has
been bothering us for a while now. We looked for alternatives
but must have missed the one you found. Thank you for
figuring it out! We have already been able to help one other
reader with this information (see Ask Silicon Chip, p100).
T12 soldering stations aren’t all the same
I have a comment on the letter in the March 2023 issue
about T12 soldering stations (starting on page 6). They are
indeed very nice and a great budget alternative to something
like a Hakko. However, people should know that “T12” is
a generic designation, not a particular product; quality and
safety vary widely among vendors.
For example, those from the KSGER brand were rather
dangerous in their earlier models due to lack of grounding
and other problems; see siliconchip.au/link/abm1
That may make them sound like deathtraps, but they’re
perfectly fine; you just have to be aware of their limitations. If you’re particularly worried, you can buy just the
controller, sold as a “Mini Station”, and provide your own
external 24V 4A power supply.
Make sure you get them from the official “handskit” store
(www.aliexpress.com/store/2070008) rather than one of the
infinite clones and ripoffs.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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Also, I had a look at the links for the Class-D amplifier
module recommended in the April issue (p27, panel at
upper right) because you mentioned that Nichicon data
sheets don’t have a 1000μF 100V cap and Nichicon is the
most widely-counterfeited capacitor brand in China.
That rang alarm bells, but the capacitors in all three links
aren’t Nichicon but Samyoung NHAs. Samyoung does list
that capacitor in their data sheets: siliconchip.au/link/abm5
They are exactly the dimensions you give, so it’s a
Samyoung, and given that they’re not the counterfeit-
plagued Nichicons, they are probably the real thing.
Peter Gutmann, Auckland, New Zealand.
Phil Prosser responds: Thank you for the sleuthing! I suspect
you detected our cautious approach in assessing modules
before recommending them. Past experience has made us
somewhat sceptical, especially when dealing with mains
voltages and power ratings above 500W. It is comforting
to find another point of confirmation on the likely provenance of the parts.
Ultra long range reception of SLF signal
I read with interest the March 2023 feature on Underwater Communication by Dr David Maddison (siliconchip.
au/Article/15691).
The 82Hz Kola Peninsular Transmit Facility signal was
received at Moonah, Tasmania, in 2018, over a distance of
more than 15,285km. Refer to siliconchip.au/link/abm4
Edgar, Moonah, Tas.
A possible reason for Yamaha amp failure
In his May 2023 Serviceman’s Log column, Dave Thompson talks about a big Yamaha amp that will not power on
(siliconchip.au/Article/15790). He gave up on this particular repair. He has had a similar fault before in another
model Yamaha, possibly a Yamaha RX-V459 (it is a tricky
fault to fix).
In the phase-shift energy-saving startup circuit, there is
a 22nF/600V polycarbonate capacitor that goes partially
open-circuit, dropping to about 8nF. A large proportion
of these amps have a similar power supply; I’m not sure
about this particular one, as he does not give a model number. If he needs a circuit diagram, I might be able to help.
Rod Humphris, Ferntree Gully, Vic.
Possible ‘gotcha’ with RF Signal Generator
I built a second copy of my AD9834-based RF Signal
Generator (June 2023; siliconchip.au/Article/15817) and
modified the LPF on the AD9834 module. The response
is much the same as the first one. While it is possible to
increase the maximum output to +0.7dBm by changing
the 1.2kW resistor in series with the 50kW potentiometer
to 1kW, I don’t recommend it. It results in some distortion
of the output waveform.
However, I did notice a peculiar bug in the second unit.
The frequency readout reduced in value by itself, about
once a second. This only occurred when the output level
was set to maximum. I eventually traced the problem to
the INT0 pin on the processor (pin 4) picking up RF noise
from the AD9834 unit.
While that line has a capacitor to ground at the encoder,
the track to pin 4 acts as an antenna to pick up the noise. I
solved this by adding a 47nF M2012/0805 capacitor on the
back of the PCB between pins 3 and 4 on the chip socket.
10
Silicon Chip
Ideally, pin 4 at the chip should have the capacitor going
to ground, but that would mean scraping off the solder
resist on the ground plane. Pin 3 is not actually used for
anything and is a low enough impedance to act as a virtual ground. This problem did not occur with the first unit
I built. I am using ATmega168 chips as I have quite a few.
The ATmega328 may have better noise immunity.
It just goes to show that building multiple prototypes
can be necessary to reveal hidden bugs!
Charles Kosina, Mooroolbark, Vic.
Slashed zero preferred
I am writing regarding the series of letters about printing
the number zero with a slash, starting in the January 2023
issue and continuing until April 2023 (page 14).
That is more needed now than ever due to password
errors, booking reference errors; anywhere ambiguity is
possible. When printing passwords, it’s a must to distinguish between 0 and O. Some printing and character sets
are appalling in this regard. So I say that all zeros should
include a slash.
Neil Brewster, Footscray, Vic.
More support for slashed zeros
This is regarding the Mailbag section of the April 2023
issue, on page 14, “In defence of the slashed Zero”.
In the mid-1970s, when learning the Fortran computer
language at uni, we had to provide coding sheets to keyboard operators who would then make us a punched card
deck of cards for our coded program. We had to use the
slashed 0, or the program just wouldn’t work when an O
was used instead.
Then, as an engineer and a programmer, typos (in variable names, library includes, labels etc) are still the most
common error when testing completed code. Personally,
I would welcome the slashed zero. Can you easily see the
difference between 007 and OO7?
Also, as a TAFE teacher, I would always draw a horizontal bar through the middle of the letter Z (Ƶ), similar
to a European 7, as the Z was far too easily confused with
the number 2. This got especially confusing when doing
impedance calculations for multiple loops with Z1, Z2
and Z3 variables in the equations, as well as superscript
2s for squared terms.
So I vote for a change in the keyboard to have the default
of a slashed zero and crossed Z all the time. While on this
subject, what about a DVORAK keyboard layout too?
Barry Moore B.Elec.Eng (Hons), Minto, NSW.
Communication between limestone caves and surface
I was most interested in Dr David Maddison’s article on
underground communications as I have been exploring
caves for over 60 years with various caving clubs in Australia (April 2023; siliconchip.au/Article/15729).
In the early 1960s, my club (now the VSA) ran a single-
wire Earth return telephone through a 2km-long stream
cave passage that was subject to flooding. The outside unit,
built by a member, was transistorised and the exploration
team kept in contact by connecting a headphone to various terminal points.
I became interested in the possibility of locating where
cave passages were compared to surface features. I had
heard that low-frequency signals could penetrate the ground
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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and, in about 1963, I built a transistor oscillator at around
2.5kHz and made two 50cm loop antennas that I made resonant. A transistor audio amplifier with a headphone was
used as a receiver.
With the audio oscillator connected to a loop placed horizontally on the cave passage floor and turned on at prearranged times for 20-minute intervals, the surface party
could accurately locate the underground loop by holding
their loop vertically and homing on the null (doughnut-
shaped field) until it could be rotated 360° with the null in
all directions. The accuracy was extremely good. Various
clubs borrowed this unit over many years.
The main problem was that, in most cases (depending on
surface terrain), the surface party could find the location in
a matter of minutes and then had to sit around.
I decided to investigate adding voice communication to
the system, which would speed up the surveying parties.
That involved experimenting and frustration, like designing and building two SSB units on 12kHz and testing them
in the Buchan caves, only to be drowned out by the Omega
station tones. Still, voices could be heard in the gaps!
I then conducted RF attenuation tests of limestone compared to air in about 1978, from 10kHz to 1MHz, and found
the lowest attenuation was at about 40kHz for that limestone. I decided to settle on 40kHz AM as it was rugged for
unskilled operators, and battery drain was not a worry. I
built two experimental test units in about 1982 and found
them to work well.
After learning how to make PCBs, I made four identical
units in 1998, which are still in use today.
I incorporated some useful functions whereby the underground units can transmit a 400Hz tone for 20 seconds, then
go into receive mode for two seconds, and then transmit the
tone again until cancelled. When the surface party locates
the underground unit, they press their tone-on button, and
The transistor oscillator which was designed by the
Victorian Speleological Association (VSA).
12
Silicon Chip
when the underground unit receives, it turns off the transmitter and goes into receive mode.
Voice communication between units is then available.
The range of the units using the loops is 100m, in the deepest limestone at Buchan.
A few years ago, a Canberra Speleological Society (CSS)
member contacted me with the thought of using PICs to
modernise the circuits, so I provided him with all the construction and circuit details. They are on their website
under the heading “Projects”, “Cave Radio and RDF Unit”
for anyone to view and improve upon.
I am still investigating cave communication systems.
Thanks for your articles; I enjoy them.
Peter Robertson, Walkerville, Vic.
Renewable energy costs and motor failures
Your April 2023 editorial headline reads, “Renewable
energy costs are seriously understated by the media”. That is
wrong. The media do not have a clue; they are only repeating misleading information from self-appointed experts.
I am not an expert, but with a few careful ‘ballpark’ calculations, I concluded quite some time ago that Australia
has no hope of converting to totally renewable power within
the foreseeable future without a drastic change in the rate
of conversion to renewable power. The costs are enormous,
and those who predict cheap power are flat-out wrong.
How can adding a major extra component like energy
storage reduce the cost of electricity? Energy storage of
any type is expensive, and the cost must be passed onto
the consumer. It is unfortunate, but Australians are facing
a costly power future.
The only thing we, as consumers, can do is reduce our
power consumption wherever we can. That is, we reduce
wastage and use energy-efficient appliances. I am sure that
energy-saving projects would not go astray as well.
In the Ask Silicon Chip section of the May 2023 edition, J.
B. of Northgate, Qld asked for help concerning a spa pump
motor. He did not say that he tested the windings for continuity, but if he does and the low-speed winding is an open
circuit, a thermal fuse could have blown.
In the shaded pole motor of a domestic pedestal fan, I
found that the manufacturer had put a thermal fuse at the
centre of the winding. There was no smell of burnt windings, so I assume the fuse failure temperature was below
that to cause the insulation to burn. Manufacturers of larger
motors may be inserting thermal fuses in their products.
I will also add that small transformers of modern manufacture can be fitted with a thermal fuse in the centre of
the windings. For example, Altronics advertise that their
transformers are equipped with a 125°C thermal fuse.
Once ‘blown’, these can be difficult, if not impossible, to
fix or replace.
Finally, I am trying to fix a problem with the motor in
my van. It is not mechanical; it involves the computer, the
sensors and the various actuating mechanisms. In other
words, it is a technical problem that involves programming,
electronics, and electromechanics. It is a pain.
The marketing spin is that technology will improve our
lives, and while everything works correctly, that is mostly
true. But when a failure occurs, even the most competent
people can be tested beyond their capabilities. Just ask
Dave Thompson.
George Ramsay, Holland Park, Qld.
SC
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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Electric Vehicle
Charging
As the number of electric vehicles (EVs)
on the roads increases, charging them
all becomes a challenge. There are
many ways to charge an EV (AC or DC,
fast or slow etc), and some charging
stations can only charge certain
vehicles. This article describes the
various charging systems, connectors
and varying charge rates, from a few
kW up to 1MW!
By Dr David Maddison
hile there are obviously other difW
ferences, the main practical difference between EVs and ICE vehicles
is the method of recharging or refuelling. An EV can be charged at home, at
work or via a dedicated charging station at a shopping centre, parking lot
or other location. In contrast, an ICE
or hybrid vehicle is refuelled at a service station or from a fuel can.
The amount of time these procedures take can vary wildly. An EV
can take hours (sometimes more than
a day) for a full recharge, although a
‘top up’ at a fast charger can be much
quicker, perhaps under half an hour.
In contrast, refuelling an ICE vehicle
usually takes a couple of minutes.
The time to recharge, along with the
distance between charging stations,
can cause “range anxiety” for EV drivers. Still, petrol and diesel vehicles
are not immune from that, especially
when away from urban centres in a
country as large as Australia!
In places such as the USA, Europe
and Japan, there is a sufficiently high
population density that charging stations are relatively closely spaced, but
that is not always the case in Australia.
Also, long road trips of up to 1000km
or more are rare in places like Europe
and Japan.
This article covers the practical and
technical aspects of charging EVs, such
as connector standards, power supply
16
Silicon Chip
issues, charging times, the extent of
recharging networks, limitations of
charging at home and other relevant
matters.
Charging stations
One of the most important aspects
of EV ownership is locating charging
stations, especially when planning a
long trip. Many EV owners also install
a home charger, although most can be
charged from a regular power point
(but that can be slow).
The main components of an EV
charging station are:
• The power source (usually derived
from the mains, but possibly solar panels, other batteries or a generator).
• The charging cable.
• The connector that plugs into the
vehicle.
As part of all this, there are various
charging standards, data protocols and
charging protocols, charger power ratings, voltages and currents.
Some charging stations have their
own cable and connector; others
require you to provide a cable with a
suitable connector, typically kept in
the vehicle. There are also adaptors
to convert from one type of connector to another.
It would be grand if any EV could
rock up to any charging station, plug
in and get a charge, but unfortunately, there are too many competing
Australia's electronics magazine
standards for that always to happen.
Now is as good a time as any to bring
up that old chestnut from Andrew S.
Tanenbaum: “The nice thing about
standards is that you have so many to
choose from”!
EV charging stations in
Australia and NZ
There is now a reasonable network
of EV charging stations in the more
populated areas of Australia and NZ,
documented at www.plugshare.com
Fig.1: an EV charging station in
Adelaide. Source: www.wikiwand.
com/en/Plug-in_electric_vehicles_in_
Australia (CC BY-SA 2.0).
siliconchip.com.au
However, for longer-distance trips,
it is still necessary to ensure you have
the range to get between charging stations on your proposed route, allowing for any side trips.
Also, during peak periods such
as school holidays, there can be 90
minutes of delays at some charging
locations; for example, see this
reporter’s video on what happened
in Australia last holiday period at:
https://twitter.com/PhilWilliamsABC/
status/1607951693039423490
Some remote charging stations run
on diesel fuel or biodiesel (see Fig.2).
An experimental 50kW charger was
coupled with a diesel/biodiesel-
powered generator by inventor Jon
Edwards, who called it a “ChargePod”.
It produces 3.392kWh/litre of diesel.
Some trips in the Australian Outback are unsuitable for electric vehicles with present range limitations
(such as the nearly 1900km Canning
Stock route – https://w.wiki/6RUS).
Battery configurations and
charging
Virtually every EV on the market
today uses lithium-ion batteries (with
lithium polymer or LiPo being one
variant). They typically have large
numbers of cells joined in mechanically and electrically complex ways
with embedded cooling systems
(between cells in the case of Tesla and
some other models), along with sensors, fuses etc.
We covered lithium-ion battery
technology in detail in the August
2017 issue (siliconchip.au/Article/
10763).
To give an idea of the complexity,
the Tesla Model Y has 4400 of 2170
size cells, meaning they are 21mm
in diameter and 70mm long. There
are 17,600 welded connections, four
per cell.
Tesla is starting to use 4680 cells in
Texas-made models, which are 46mm
in diameter and 80mm long. Those
battery packs only need 830 cells and
1660 welded connections, giving a significant cost saving.
The Tesla Model S battery pack
(Fig.3) has 6912 18650-size cells
arranged as 16 modules, each in the
6S72P configuration (72 paralleled
strings of six series cells) and with
individual cell voltages from 3.10V
at 0% capacity to 4.15V at 100%
capacity.
Even though an EV may contain
siliconchip.com.au
What if your battery runs flat?
Check your options with your EV supplier or roadside assistance organisation;
for example, in NSW and the ACT, the NRMA offers roadside assistance vans
to charge flat EVs.
Two NRMA vans have been equipped with 4.8kWh lithium-ion battery packs
that provide 1km of charge every two minutes (see siliconchip.au/link/abkc).
Enough energy is provided to get to the nearest charging station; a ten-minute
charge will get you about 5km.
A company called RE:START (https://restartev.com/) has investment from
the RACV (the Victorian motoring organisation)
and produces a fast charging unit which they say
will provide 50km of range in 15mins – see Fig.a.
Another European solution is a trailer-mounted
generator such as the EP Tender (https://
eptender.com/en/product/) shown in Fig.b. You
can rent this trailer for longer trips to charge
your battery as necessary, even while driving.
The same company is developing a batteryFig.a: a roadside
only trailer.
assistance fastcharging unit produced
Some people have also carried generators in
by RE:START. Source:
their EVs, but you need a large and powerful one
https://restartev.com/
to charge at a reasonable rate.
A YouTuber permanently installed a generator
in his Tesla as an experiment, thus turning it into a hybrid – see Fig.c. The
video is titled “Cordless Tesla (I Drive 1800 miles without charging)” and is at
https://youtu.be/hHhf223jGIE
If all else fails, you would have to either call a tow truck or a nearby friend
with a portable generator.
Fig.b: a solution to EV range anxiety.
Source: https://eptender.com/en/
product/
Fig.c: a rear view of the ‘hybrid Tesla’
with a 10kW generator. Source: youtu.
be/hHhf223jGIE
Fig.2: a diesel/biodieselpowered EV charger in the
Outback. Source: https://
thedriven.io/2018/12/14/
diesel-charge-evs-remotelocations-greener-thanyou-think/
Fig.3: a partially
disassembled Tesla Model
S battery pack with 6912
18650-size cells in 16
modules. It has a rated
capacity of 85kWh at
400V DC. Source: https://
hackaday.com/2014/09/13/
tesla-model-s-batteryteardown/
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2023 17
standards from Table 1 and adding
those shown in Table 2.
Fig.4: the
charging
scheme for
a typical
lithium-ion
battery, like
those used in
most EVs.
Charging Connector Types
EV Charging connectors and protocols can be divided into AC charging
(single-phase or three-phase) and DC
charging, with preferences for different connector types by region shown
in Fig.5. While we’re showing regional
preferences, different connector types
can still be found within the same
region. The following types of connectors are in use or planned:
AC
● Type 1 (Yazaki, SAE J1772, single-
phase)
● Type 2 (Mennekes, SAE J3068,
three-phase)
● Type 2 (GB/T, type 2 physical
connector with different pinouts)
● Type 3 (Scame, uncommon)
thousands of cells, each cell still has to
be charged using the basic lithium-ion
charging scheme shown in Fig.4. The
primary charging scheme involves
charging at a constant current until
the maximum voltage is reached, then
holding them at that voltage until the
current drops below a certain level.
If the initial state of charge is low,
this scheme might also be preceded
by a ‘conditioning charge’ at a much
lower current, to allow the cell chemistry to stabilise before rapid charging
begins.
Regardless, the variation in charge
voltage and current will be managed by
the battery management system (BMS).
Individual lithium cells might range
in voltage from 3.10V to 4.15V in the
case of the Model S, but due to the 6S
configuration, each module charges to
24.9V. The modules are also arranged
in series sets of 16, giving 398.4V
(24.9V × 16), so the vehicle requires a
400V charger.
There is no chance of connector
incompatibility due to different connector standards if the EV owner uses
their own cable, as long as the remote
end is compatible with the charging
station connector.
However, at high-power DC charging
stations, the cable is permanently
attached to the charger because it is
thick, heavy and often has coolant
running through it.
In Australia, the Type 2 connector
(also used throughout Europe) is the
most common to find. This can be used
for AC or DC charging. We will come
back to that a bit later.
Charging stations and cables
Table 1 – SAE J1772 voltage & power standards (limits) for North America
Charging stations are either AC or
DC. If the charging station supplies
DC, it is applied directly to the battery pack, and the charge rate is limited only by what the pack can handle.
However, if the station supplies AC,
the vehicle uses an onboard AC-to-DC
converter, which will typically be the
limitation on the rate of charge. For
example, many plug-in hybrids have
an onboard converter that’s limited to
7.2kW (32A <at> 225V AC single-phase),
while some EVs are limited to 11kW
(16A <at> 432V AC three-phase); others
can handle 22kW (32A three-phase).
At lower-power AC charging stations, the EV owner can use their own
cable, which is kept with the vehicle
and plugged into the charging station
outlet (or a cable might be provided).
18
Silicon Chip
Voltage and power standards
Various EV charger power and voltage ratings have been defined. Table 1
summarises those for North America.
The IEC (International Electrotechnical Commission) has produced standards for international implementation by adopting most of the SAE
Method Current
DC
● CHAdeMO (AA⋆)
● GB/T (BB⋆)
● ChaoJi (planned)
● CCS “Combo” Type 1 (EE⋆)
● CCS “Combo” Type 2 (FF⋆)
● Megawatt Charging System
⋆ AA, BB, EE & FF are designations
under the IEC 62196 standard.
AC & DC
● NACS (Tesla)
Combined Charging System
Combined Charging System (CCS)
connectors are based on extensions
to the Type 1 (North America & Japan)
and Type 2 (Europe & Australia)
Voltage
Power
Notes
AC Level 1 16A
120V
1.92kW
Standard domestic outlet
AC Level 2 80A
208-240V
19.2kW
240V single-phase or
208V three-phase
DC Level 1 80A
50-1000V
80kW
DC Level 2 400A
50-1000V
400kW
Table 2 – IEC additional charging standards (limits)
Mode Type
Current
Voltage
Power
250V
4kW
16A
480V
11kW
2 single-phase 32A
250V
7.4kW
32A
480V
22kW
3 single-phase 63A
250V
14.5kW
63A
480V
43.5kW
200A
400V
80kW
1 single-phase 16A
three-phase
three-phase
three-phase
4 DC
Australia's electronics magazine
The three-phase power
ratings are about
50% higher than the
product of the voltage
and current, since the
current rating is per
conductor and there are
three conductors rather
than two for singlephase.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.5 (left): some common EV charge connector types. Not
shown are Type 3, ChaoJi or Tesla. For more details, visit
https://w.wiki/6RUd
Fig.6 (below): the Type 1 connector pinout. L1 is AC Line
1, N is Neutral for Level 1 charging or AC Line 2 for level
2 charging, PE is protective earth, PP is the ‘plug present’
signal and CP is ‘control pilot’ for various control signals.
Source: https://w.wiki/6RHE (CC BY-SA 4.0).
L1
N
PP
CP
PE
Fig.7 (right): a
Type 1 connector.
Source: https://w.
wiki/6RHF
connectors. The extensions consist
of two additional DC connector pins
to allow high-power DC charging. In
such a configuration, the AC pins of the
original part of the Type 1 and Type 2
connectors are no longer used.
The extended connector is called
CCS Type 1 (CCS1), Type 2 (CCS2),
Combo 1 or Combo 2. Power can be
delivered at up to 350kW and 200920V. We will illustrate these connectors later.
Type 1 and Combo 1
The Type 1 connector is also known
as the SAE J1772, J plug or Yazaki (see
Figs.6 & 7). It is also covered by the
international standard IEC 62196 as
the Type 1. It is common in Japan &
North America, and is used in Australia on cars such as the Holden Volt, Nissan Leaf, Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV,
BMW i3, BMW i8 and Porsche Taycan.
The Combo 1 connector for highpower DC charging is a Type 1 with
two DC charging pins added (see
Fig.8); the AC pins are not used.
Type 2 and Combo 2
Type 3
Also known as Mennekes or IEC
62196-2, Type 2 is a mandated standard in Europe and commonly used
in Australia, mainly by Teslas and
some European models. These are
installed at Tesla charging stations,
although only Teslas can connect at
such stations.
For AC charging, vehicles with this
connector typically charge at 7.2kW
for 230V/32A single-phase AC or
22kW for 400V three-phase AC.
Two more DC charging pins are
added for high-power DC charging,
forming the Combo 2 or CCS2
F
CP
N
DC+
Fig.8: a Combo 1 plug for high-power
DC charging. Source: https://w.
wiki/6RHG (CC BY-SA 4.0).
siliconchip.com.au
The Type 3 or Scame connector was
used in France and Italy but has now
been superseded by the European standard connector, Type 2.
GB/T
The Chinese GB/T 20234.2-2015
connector uses the same physical connector as Type 2 (AC) but with gender
differences for the plugs and a different signalling protocol.
GB/T (DC)
The GB/T DC charging connector
is mainly used in China (see Fig.11)
M
PP
PE
L3
connector (Figs.9 & 10), which can
transfer power at 350kW. The AC pins
are eliminated or not used. Where this
connector is used in the USA, it is covered by the SAE J3068 standard.
PP
L1
L2
DC-
L1
CP
PE
L2
DC-
N
L3
DC+
Figs.9 & 10: a Combo 2 connector (the leftmost cable in Fig.10); yellow AC pins
are unused. Without the bottom two pins, it would be a Type 2 (the rightmost
cable in Fig.10). F is the charging station outlet, while M is the car inlet. PP
is the ‘proximity pilot’ signal, CP is the ‘control pilot’ signal, PE protective
earth, N neutral and L1-L3 are the three phases. DC+ and DC- are only used
for Combo 2 charging. Source: https://w.wiki/6RHJ & https://w.wiki/6RHK (CC
BY-SA 4.0).
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2023 19
S+
CC2
S-
CC1
DC+
A+
DCPE
A-
Fig.11: the GB/T DC connector.
S+ & S- are CAN bus, CC1 & CC2
the charging confirmation signals,
A+ & A- are auxiliary power, PE
is protective earth and DC+ & DCcarry up to 1kV at 250A. Source:
https://w.wiki/6RHM
FG
SS1
N/C
DCP
DC+
DCPP
C-H
C-L
SS2
Fig.12: the CHAdeMO connector
pinout. FG is ground, N/C is not
connected, DCP charging enable,
SS1 & SS2 are the charging
start and stop signals, PP is the
charge interlock to disable the
drivetrain during charging, while
C-L & C-H are CAN bus signals
to communicate with the vehicle.
Source: https://w.wiki/6RHL
and is also designated as the BB configuration under IEC 61851-23, IEC
61851-24 and Chinese standard GB/T
20234.3. A power delivery of up to
250kW is possible, and CAN bus signalling is used.
CHAdeMO
CHAdeMO is a Japanese standard
(see Figs.12 & 13). The name comes
from “Charge de Move” (a French
phrase), which its developers interpret as “charge for moving”.
However, it originally comes as
a pun on the phrase “o cha demo
ikaga desuka” (おちゃでもいかがです
か), which means “how about a cup
of tea?”, referring to the time taken to
charge a vehicle!
CHAdeMO is popular in Japan but
less widely used in the USA or Europe.
The second generation CHAdeMO
standard is capable of 400kW <at>
1kV/400A DC.
In Australia, the CHAdeMO connector is used by the Nissan Leaf; as
more EVs are bought to Australia, it
might become more widely adopted.
Tritium-brand charging stations support this connector.
The connector supports bidirectional operation, such as using the EV
as a power source (more on that later).
A third generation, called ChaoJi,
that can deliver 900kW is being co-
developed with China; see https://w.
wiki/6RHf
ChaoJi
Not to be confused with the Tesla
Megacharger, the MCS (Fig.14) is a
high-power charging connector under
development for large EVs (eg, trucks,
ferries and aircraft). It has a power rating of 3.75MW or 3000A at 1.25kV DC.
20
Silicon Chip
Charging-related standards such as
connectors, protocols and ‘vehicle
to grid’ (V2G, described below) are
covered by specifications in the
following documents:
● China: GB/T 20234
● International: IEC 61851, IEC
62196, IEC 63110 & ISO 15118
(V2G)
● North America: SAE J1772,
SAE J3068, SAE J3105 (heavy
vehicles) & SAE J3271 (megawatt
charging)
Some charging methods and
protocols are proprietary and not
covered by the above standards.
fast DC chargers that form the Tesla
Supercharger network and facilitate
long-distance trips, usually at 120kW
or 250kW. There are also lower-power
Tesla ‘destination chargers’ at places
like hotels and shopping centres, typically delivering 22kW.
Tesla NACS
Tesla has developed its own charging
standard called the North American
Charging Standard. It was initially proprietary, but Tesla has now published
it for all to use, and Aptera Motors has
adopted it.
The connector is smaller than a
J1172/CCS connector but uses the
same pins. It has the same communications protocol as CCS, ISO 15118
and DIN 70121. In Australia, Tesla uses
the Type 2 connector. A Tesla Model 3
has additional pins for higher power
charging, with a CCS Type 2 connector, but it can also use a Type 2 connector only.
ChaoJi, also known as CHAdeMO
3.0, is a proposed standard for an EV
car connector developed between
Japan and China for charging at powers up to 900kW DC with a maximum
voltage of 1.5kV and a maximum current of 600A.
It is designed to be backward- Adaptors
compatible using an adaptor for
Various adaptors (see Fig.15) are
CHAdeMO and GB/T DC charging. A available to convert one charging conmegawatt charging connector called nector to another type, but data signals
“Ultra-ChaoJi” is also under devel- must also be compatible.
opment.
Megawatt Charging System (MCS)
Fig.13: a CHAdeMO plug. Source:
https://w.wiki/6RHQ
Charger & connector standards
Tesla Supercharger
Tesla Superchargers are high-power
Australia's electronics magazine
Charging levels
Depending on the available power,
there are different charging levels (not
to be confused with connector type),
as shown in Tables 1 and 2. The following names are commonly used in
Australia.
These charging level names do not
conform with the IEC international
recommended levels (which they call
Modes), outlined in Table 2.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.14: a prototype Megawatt
Charging System connector v3.2.
There are two DC pins, four data
communications pins (white) and a
protective earth pin (PE). Source:
https://w.wiki/6RHN (CC BY-SA 4.0).
Fig.15: a Type 1 to Type 2 adaptor
sold by EVSE. Source: https://evse.
com.au/product/type-1-to-type-2-evadapter-cable-32a-2
Level 1 uses a standard domestic
single-phase 230V AC ‘GPO’ outlet.
This is the most basic level of charging.
The charging power is 2.3kW in Australia and NZ. At this rate, it takes one
day plus eight and a half hours to fully
charge a Tesla Model 3 from flat, with
14km of range added per hour.
Single-phase 15A 3.45kW outlets
can also be installed in premises in
Australia & New Zealand, increasing
that rate to 20km/hour and reducing
the total charging time for that vehicle
to around 22 hours.
You will often see slightly higher
powers quoted because the supply
voltage is usually higher than the nominal voltage of 230V AC; those higher
power ratings are generally based on
an average of 240V. A proprietary
single-
phase Tesla charging station
will deliver 7.2kW, adding 42km per
hour of charging and fully charging
the Model 3 in 10.5 hours.
Level 2 charging is from a threephase (~400V) 16A outlet. Such outlets
are not typical in homes in Australia
or New Zealand but can be installed
easily. The power delivery is 11kW,
taking 5.5-7.5 hours to fully charge
a Tesla Model 3 at a rate of 65km of
range added per hour.
Note that 400V 32A outlets are also
possible and provide 22kW, doubling
that charging rate and halving the total
charging time.
There is some argument over the
exact definition of “Level 3”, but this
refers to high-power DC charging,
which is unlikely to be affordable and
not always possible in domestic installations. The typical power delivery
is 120kW, and it takes about half an
hour to charge a Tesla Model 3 from
flat to 80%. But note that repeated
fast charging can prematurely age the
battery.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.16(a): An overall view of one of
the chargers. There is a place to tap a
payment card above the car symbol.
Local council charging station
I had a close look at my local council charging station, which is typical of
what might be found around Australia
– see Fig.16. Each side of the station
has a Type 2 outlet (socket) into which
you plug in your cable.
The Tesla prime-mover
Megacharger
Terminology varies from country to
country, but the ten-wheel unit that
pulls an eight-plus-wheel trailer is
called a prime-mover in Australia and
New Zealand, or a tractor unit, among
other names, in North America. Tesla
Fig.16(b): Another charger with its own
cables (Type 2 plug & socket); they can
be unplugged from the charger socket
to plug in your own. In the corner is a
close-up of the Type 2 plug.
The cost to charge an EV
It depends on how much you pay for electricity and how efficient your charger
is, but at around 30-40¢/kWh in Australia, assuming 10% losses, charging a
typical 60kWh EV battery will cost around $20-26. Public fast chargers have
a higher cost per kW (60¢/kWh for some 350kW chargers), so a full charge
might cost up to $40.
The ‘fuel economy’ of EVs is generally measured in kWh/100km. Some
people overseas use “MPGe” or miles per gallon (equivalent). However, equating
electricity to a volume of liquid fuel containing a similar amount of energy is
flawed logic.
At around 17kWh/100km (a figure measured in real-world testing), that $2040 charge will take you around 350km. By comparison, $20-40 will buy you
11-22 litres of petrol which, for a hybrid Camry, equates to a range of about
250-500km. The average fuel consumption of a purely petrol-powered vehicle
was 10.8L/100km from the ABS 2020 figures.
When charging an EV, you are not paying the 46¢ plus GST per litre “excise”
applied to petrol and diesel. However, in Victoria, EVs are taxed at 2.6¢/km
and hybrids at 2.1¢/km.
The excise money is meant to pay for road building and maintenance,
although it is actually a general revenue-raising tax.
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2023 21
is developing a prime-mover called
the Tesla Semi (see Fig.17), not to be
confused with the Tesla Cybertruck, a
much smaller utility vehicle.
The vehicle is said to have a
900kWh, 1000V battery, a range of
997km with no load, and a range of
480km or 800km with an unspecified
load, depending on the model. It is to
be charged with a 1MW DC charger
called the Megacharger.
This charger will also be used for the
Cybertruck, which employs a 1000V
battery system rather than the 400V
system used in Tesla cars.
Some industry experts are sceptical
about the capabilities of the Tesla Semi
and its cost-effectiveness. Ultimately,
that will be decided by the marketplace. The Semi started deliveries in
the USA in December 2022.
A car charging cable such as the V3
would not be suitable for charging the
Tesla Semi because it would take too
long with battery capacities in the
hundreds of kWh. Therefore, Tesla
developed a V4 charging cable that
can deliver 1MW.
Like the V3 cable, it has active cooling, but instead of 12 power wires, it
has two. Each wire is immersed in its
own coolant return tube, with coolant
supplied by two tubes along the body
of the cable – see Fig.18.
According to Tesla, a current density
of 35A/mm2 can be achieved. Adding the coolant lines to prevent overheating means less copper is needed
for a given current, saving expensive
copper and reducing the weight of
the cable.
By comparison, the Tesla V3 supercharging cable (also shown in Fig.18)
has a power conductor current density of about 14A/mm2, allowing up
to 250kW to flow. The Tesla V2 cable
Can the electrical grid handle mass EV charging?
There are already problems in the upmarket suburb of Brighton in Melbourne,
where EV-owning residents wanted to set up a charging schedule. See the
articles at siliconchip.au/link/abjp (Herald Sun) and siliconchip.au/link/abjq
(radio 2GB).
We don’t know what future electricity policy will dictate. Still, in Australia,
there is the big question of whether enough reliable, low-cost power will be
available to charge all the anticipated EVs. Consider that total generation has
been stagnant for the last few years.
Secondly, what will happen if everyone goes home from work, plugs in the EV
and draws an extra 2.3kW to 22kW (Level 1 and Level 2 charging) per vehicle
per household, all at the same time?
Our back-of-the-envelope calculations suggest that the total generation
would likely have to at least double to provide enough power to charge all those
vehicles, assuming the demand is evenly spread out. That’s based on electric
passenger vehicles only; we haven’t considered delivery trucks, semi-trailers
or other commercial vehicles, including those used in mining.
The grid will also need significant investment to carry twice as much power,
with many transformers needing to be upgraded, along with transmission lines.
That makes local generation and storage, such as with PV solar panels and
stationary batteries, seem attractive. Unfortunately, there are problems with
that too.
Each home would need a very large solar system to gather enough energy
to charge an EV (depending on how much driving was being done). As it’s
unlikely that the charging time would coincide with power availability, large
batteries would be needed to store the energy when it is available, then charge
the vehicle when it’s plugged in.
is uncooled and has a current density
of up to 4A/mm2.
Electrical power losses in conductors scale with the square of the current, so losses can be reduced by reducing the current and increasing the voltage. To achieve four times the power
rating of the V3 cable, the charging
voltage has also been increased from
400V for the Tesla Models 3, Y, S and
X to 1000V for the Cybertruck and
the Semi.
Increasing the voltage results in new
problems, such as the requirement for
more insulation and additional design
elements to prevent electrical breakdown and arcing.
The above is about the cable only;
no details have yet been released on
the type of connector used with the
1MW charging system.
Wireless car charging
The SAE J2954 standard relates to
wireless charging or “wireless power
transfer (WPT)” for EVs – see Fig.19.
Power deliveries of 3.7kW, 7.7kW or
11kW are allowed for. There is also a
provision for 500kW transfer for large
vehicles under J2954/2.
The principle of wireless charging is
similar to inductive charging but uses
‘resonant inductive coupling’. Currently, the Genesis GV60 (a Hyundai
1 MW + DC CHARGING
IMMERSION COOLING TECHNOLOGY
CHARGING AMPACITY
40
HIGH VOLTAGE
CONDUCTORS
2
AMPS / MM
35
V3 CHARGING
CABLE
30
25
COOLANT TUBES
20
15
HV CONDUCTORS
IMMERSED IN
COOLANT RETURN
TUBES
10
5
V2
Fig.17: a Tesla Semi EV. Source: Tesla.
22
Silicon Chip
V3
V4
V4 CHARGING
CABLE
COOLANT TUBES
Fig.18: a comparison of the Tesla V2, V3 and V4 charging cables with crosssections showing the power conductor parts of the V3 & V4 cables. Source:
Tesla, screen grab from https://youtu.be/LtOqU2o81iI?t=1600
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
luxury brand) is the only EV with
wireless charging, and this option is
only available in South Korea at the
moment.
For more details, see the video titled
“How to make EVs - From EV Batteries to Wireless Charging Technology
| Genesis GV60” at https://youtu.be/
npUNCgT68bE
The Open Charge Alliance
The Open Charge Alliance (OCA;
www.openchargealliance.org) is an
international consortium to promote
the use of open standards via the adoption of the Open Charge Point Protocol
(OCPP) and the Open Smart Charging
Protocol (OSCP). These standards are
for ‘cloud-based’ charger system (network) management.
The OCA standards are for communications between the charge point or
charge point network and the ‘back
office’ and do not involve physical
connector or charging protocol standards for an EV. The EV owner does
not interact directly or knowingly with
OCPP and OSCP, although they might
operate ‘behind the scenes’.
OSCP 2.0 (Fig.20) is for charging site
owners and electricity utilities. It communicates predictions of locally available electrical production and generation capacity, fits production and generation resources to grid capacity and
facilitates communication between
the providers. In other words, it helps
ensure that sufficient electricity will
be available for the vehicles that need
charging.
OCPP 2.0.1 (Fig.21) is relevant to
charging points, providing a consistent experience even when charging at
locations owned and operated by different parties. It supports SOAP and
JSON data formats, smart charging,
load balancing, charging profiles,
tracks the time spent charging and the
current status while providing device
management, transaction handling
and security.
Fig.19: a wireless charger for an EV, which can surprisingly deliver multiple
kilowatts. Usually, a low barrier is placed so that the vehicle naturally comes to
a stop over the charger. Source: https://w.wiki/6RHP (CC BY-SA 3.0).
Fig.20: the Open Smart Charging Protocol (OSCP) communicates a 24-hour
forecast of the available electricity (blue). Based on this, service providers
generate charging profiles (red) for EVs to make the best use of the grid capacity.
Source: www.openchargealliance.org/protocols/oscp-10/
Vehicle to Grid (V2G)
Vehicle to Grid is a concept where
an EV acts as an energy reservoir for
the grid (https://w.wiki/6RHk). An EV
has a convenient large battery, generally much larger than home energy
storage batteries, such as:
• Tesla Powerwall (13.5kWh; http://
siliconchip.au/link/abk3).
• Enphase Energy (10.08kWh for IQ
Battery 10; siliconchip.au/link/abjz)
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.21: the Open Charge Point Protocol (OCPP). EVSE is the Electric Vehicle
Supply Equipment, ie, the charging station, while CSMS is the charging system
management software. You don’t need to provide payment and charging details
separately with every charging station you pull up to, as long as they support
OCPP. Source: https://youtu.be/0exHWxV-uW8
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2023 23
Fig.22: the Wallbox Quasar offers
bidirectional power flow for V2G
applications.
Fig.23: a Ford F-150 Lightning connected to a home charging station. The vehicle
might be charging or operating in either V2G or V2H modes. Source: www.ford.
com/trucks/f150/f150-lightning/2022/features/intelligent-backup-power/
• LG Home Battery (16kWh for
RESU16H Prime; siliconchip.au/link/
abk2)
• sonnenBatterie Evo (10kWh;
siliconchip.au/link/abk1)
• Redflow ZBM3 (10kWh; http://
siliconchip.au/link/abk5)
• DCS PV Series (15kWh; http://
siliconchip.au/link/abk0)
• Zenaji Aeon (1.93kWh, expandable; siliconchip.au/link/abk4)
Note that some hybrid vehicles support V2G, but they have much smaller
batteries than dedicated EVs, so they
will not work as well in this role.
The way it works is when an EV is
plugged into a home charger, power
can flow bidirectionally to either
charge the EV battery from the grid
or discharge it and export the energy
into the home or back into the grid to
meet local demand.
As with grid-scale batteries, the
objective is to charge the battery when
power is cheap and use it in the home
or export it when power is expensive.
Still, you would want to avoid totally
discharging it, especially when you
might need to use it.
Of cars available in Australia, V2G
is supported by the Nissan Leaf (full
EV, 39kWh), Mitsubishi Outlander
PHEV (hybrid, 20kWh) and Mitsubishi Eclipse Cross (hybrid, 13.8kWh).
V2G Jetcharge (siliconchip.au/link/
abk6) are doing work in this area in
South Australia.
The Wallbox Quasar (siliconchip.
au/link/abk7), shown in Fig.22, is an
example of a bidirectional charger
What’s inside a DC fast charger?
DC fast chargers are essentially switchmode power supplies converting AC from
the mains grid to a variable DC voltage
at high power for battery charging. Of
course, they incorporate battery charging
logic, communications with the vehicle,
metering, communications with the owner
and everything else required to do the job.
All but the most basic fast chargers
will incorporate multiple switch-mode
units in parallel – see the adjacent photo.
For a start, it’s very difficult to design a
single device to deliver 100kW or more,
while it’s relatively easy to design a supply
capable of delivering, say, 10kW that can be
paralleled for more power delivery.
This also gives manufacturers the
flexibility to design one charger board and
then deploy it in a range of products, from
the low end to the high end.
suitable for V2G. It can charge or
discharge at up to 7.4kW, operating
between 150V and 500V and using
a CHAdeMO connector plus internet
connectivity.
Other carmakers supporting V2G
technology include:
• Volkswagen Group are building
V2G hardware into all their vehicles
that use their Second Generation Modular Electric Toolkit (MEB), a standardised EV platform. Vehicles on
this platform include various Audi,
Seat-Cupra, Skoda and Volkswagen
EVs using the Type 2 port.
• Porsche (part of VW) has been
testing the concept with the Taycan
EV; it may be able to be implemented
in future with a software update.
• The Ford F-150 Lightning pickup
truck in the USA supports V2G (see
Fig.23), although V2G is currently only
being tested: siliconchip.au/link/abk8
Tesla has not announced plans to
support V2G, although presumably,
they could implement it with a software upgrade in some models.
Before using V2G, consider whether
it will shorten the expected life of
your EV battery and whether the cost
of replacing it will be higher than the
Fig.25: the Kerb Charge system,
charging an EV in the street.
Source: www.kerbcharge.com.au
The power source for a Tesla V3 Supercharger being installed. Note the two rows of
what appear to be metal boxes containing switchmode converters. Source: https://
teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/supercharger-beaverton-or.283907/page-2
24
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Hybrids vs EVs
Fig.24: power outlets on the Ford
F-150 Lightning pickup truck. Source:
same as Fig.23
benefits of the V2G connection.
Vehicle to Load (V2L) and
Vehicle to Home (V2H)
Vehicle to Load (V2L) refers to the
ability to plug mains-powered appliances into your EV, such as power tools,
floodlights or a kettle. This is useful for
tradesmen working at building sites
or recreational campers, for example.
With Vehicle to Home (V2H), a vehicle can be plugged into your home
via the right sort of charger interface,
to power your home during a power
outage. A variation of this is Vehicle to
Building (V2B), where a vehicle powers an entire building, or V2X, where
it powers ‘everything’, with bidirectional power flowing through a building to the grid.
V2L is available on EVs such as
the Hyundai IONIQ 5 (Fig.26) and
KIA EV6.
The Ford F-150 Lightning mentioned above also supports Vehicle to
Load (V2L) and Vehicle to Home (V2H)
during power outages.
Battery charging efficiency
According to tests by ADAC, a major
German car association, electrical
EVs are purely electric and only operate from a battery, while hybrids
combine an internal combustion engine (ICE) with a battery. In both cases,
regenerative braking is used to recover some kinetic energy into the battery
during braking. Plug-in hybrids are hybrids where the battery can also be
recharged from the mains.
One advantage of a hybrid over a regular ICE vehicle is that the engine
can mostly run at optimal efficiency, at a fixed RPM and throttle position, to
charge the battery and/or drive the wheels.
Not all models mentioned below are representative and are not
necessarily current or available in Australia or New Zealand. We have
included the range for all-electric EVs and plug-in hybrids on battery only.
All-Electric: Audi e-tron (336-444km), BMW i4 (510-590km), Hyundai
Ioniq electric (373km), Jaguar I-Pace (470km), Kia EV6 (484-528km), Lexus
UX300e (305km), Mini Cooper SE (200km), Mercedes-Benz EQA (480km),
Nissan Leaf (270-385km), Porsche Taycan (431-484km), Tesla Model 3
(491-614km), Tesla Model S (637-652km), Tesla Model X (580-547km),
Volvo XC40 Recharge Pure Electric (380-418km).
Parallel Hybrid: the ICE and electric motor are locked together and can
drive the vehicle individually or together, eg, Honda Insight. They usually
require the ICE to be running to move.
Mild Parallel Hybrid: like a parallel hybrid but with only a small electric
motor to keep various pumps and the aircon compressors running, and
provide extra power for acceleration: Honda Civic Hybrid, Honda Insight
2nd generation, Honda CR-Z, Honda Accord Hybrid, Mercedes Benz S400
BlueHYBRID, BMW 7 Series hybrids, General Motors BAS Hybrids, Suzuki
S-Cross, Suzuki Wagon R and Smart Fortwo.
Series-Parallel Hybrid: two drive motors are used, ICE and electric.
Depending on conditions, either motor can be used or both together,
coupled in such a way that each can contribute any amount of the total
power, eg, Toyota Hybrid Synergy Drive/Toyota Hybrid System II including:
Toyota Prius, Ford Escape and Fusion Hybrid, Lexus RX400h, RX450h,
GS450h, LS600h and CT200h.
Series Hybrid: driven by an electric motor and can function as an EV
when there is sufficient battery power, but an ICE drives a generator to
charge the battery: BMW i3 with Range Extender, Fisker Karma, Nissan Note
with ePower.
Plug-in Hybrid: a serial or parallel hybrid with a larger battery that can
act as a pure EV for shorter distances: MG HS Plus EV (52km), Ford Escape
ST-Line PHEV (69km), Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV (69km), Mini Countryman
All4 Hybrid (61km), Mercedes-Benz GLC 300e (46km), Range Rover Velar
(69km), BMW X5 xDrive50e (94-110km), Porsche Panamera (51km).
Note that the electric range of plug-in hybrids is limited; it’s 110km at
most in those examples and usually much less. Long journeys will still
invoke the ICE motor (still, many peoples’ commutes are within these
ranges, possibly even the round-trip).
Fig.26: an external V2L
interface on a Hyundai
IONIQ 5. There is also an
interior outlet. There is a
similar external adaptor
for the Kia EV6 as well as
an interior outlet. Source:
www.hyundai.co.nz/v2l
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2023 25
Considerations for a home EV charger
If you want to buy an EV and charge it at home, here are some things to
consider:
01 The standard plug-in charger that comes with your EV will take many
hours, maybe days, to fully charge it. You need a dedicated hard-wired highpower charger to charge the car quickly. Still, the slow charger may be adequate if you only drive short distances or will leave it plugged in permanently
between trips that do not fully exhaust the battery.
02 Many different chargers are available. Some are ‘smart’, with various features; some support solar panels; some are bidirectional and support V2G (see
elsewhere). Choose one that suits your needs.
03 Consider whether you should buy a charger that supports standards from
the Open Charge Alliance (www.openchargealliance.org).
04 Unless you are offered an excellent deal, consider whether you need a
charger from your vehicle manufacturer that might only charge specific models. Would you be better off with a more generic model that will work on other
vehicles in your household (perhaps later purchases) or others you may buy in
future? Check that the charger will work with your proposed vehicle and does
not affect the vehicle warranty (it shouldn’t).
05 Make sure you get the right cable length to go between the vehicle and
the charger. You might usually charge it in a garage, but what if you sometimes
want to charge it on the driveway? It might be worth getting a longer cable.
06 If you have multiple vehicles in your household, you might need multiple
chargers to charge more than one car simultaneously. Will your household
power supply support that?
07 If charging from solar panels, ensure you have enough capacity, especially
for winter use. It is unlikely that you will be able to fully charge from solar panels unless you have a very large solar installation and can charge during most
of the day.
08 Charging your car might cause you to drain your solar battery. Will the
charger communicate with the battery and take power from the grid when necessary? Remember that there are substantial losses in charging from battery
to battery.
losses of between 10% and 30% occur
when charging an EV from a wall
socket at home, and losses of 5% to
10% occur when using a ‘wall box’
(dedicated hard-wired charger, presumably Level 2).
In their tests, the Renault Zoe lost
30% at the wall socket, while the most
efficient car was the Fiat 500e, which
lost only 5%. Further losses occur due
to some vehicles drawing power from
the grid to heat or cool the battery at
extreme temperatures.
Battery heating and cooling is very
important, since many early EVs that
lacked active battery temperature management experience shorter battery
lives with early reductions in range.
Converting battery power back to
motive power involves an additional
5% to 10% loss – see siliconchip.au/
link/abk9
Remember that those were only the
losses from the wall to the battery and
did not include grid losses or the inefficiencies of the power generation itself.
More links & videos
• A Daily Mail article highlighting
the difficulty of finding a charging
station that is not busy: siliconchip.
au/link/abjs
• “Towing with my Ford Lightning
EV Pickup was a TOTAL DISASTER!”
– youtu.be/3nS0Fdayj8Y
• “Can a generator charge your
Tesla?” – youtu.be/T92oxFrOA6M SC
09 Consider installing a three-phase power supply to your house if you don’t
already have it. This will allow more charging power (and less charging time).
My electrician said that adding three-phase power to a typical home would
start at about $3,000 plus utility fees. It will be more expensive if power is supplied to the house via underground cables rather than overhead wires.
10 If you live in an apartment complex, find out whether you can get permission from your owner’s corporation to install charge points, likely at your
expense. EVs have been banned at an underground parking garage in Germany
due to fire risk, and this ban could conceivably extend to underground garages
at apartment complexes, including in Australia. See siliconchip.au/link/abka
Editor’s note: from October 2023 in NSW, new apartments must have the
ability to charge electric cars; see siliconchip.au/link/abkb
11 What if you have to park your car on the street? Local councils have fined
some people when they have run cables from their houses across footpaths
to charge EVs. To alleviate this problem, some local councils are trialling
schemes where a cable is run from a resident’s home, under the footpath and
to a location near the gutter with a charging point, at your expense, of course
– $6,000 plus other costs. You would have to hope no one took the adjacent
parking space! See siliconchip.au/link/abjr
12 An Australian company that makes such charge points is Kerb Charge
(www.kerbcharge.com.au) – see Figs.25 & 27. But also keep in mind that there
are usually council regulations against blocking or placing obstacles on footpaths (eg, to ensure people in wheelchairs can get about), so you would need
to verify you would not get in trouble before installing such a device.
26
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
Fig.27: the inventor of the kerb
charger, Rod Walker from Kerb
Charge (www.kerbcharge.com.au).
Source: www.portphillip.vic.gov.au/
media/1uwb0n2f/img_1574.jpg
siliconchip.com.au
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22
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In-Line USB Power Meter
Replacement 90W Laptop Supply
90W Car Laptop Charger
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This unit includes mains lead and 10 tips to suit
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Powerhouse®
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P 0691
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Switch Style USB
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10W: 377L x 212W x 17Dmm. 15W: 40L x 343W x 17Dmm.
Your one-stop electronics shop since 1976. | Order online at altronics.com.au
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Soldering & Vacuum Desoldering Station
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LAST CHANCE KIT SELLOUT
Silicon Chip Currawong Valve Amplifier Kit
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Headphones
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K 5528
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499
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Western Australia
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Sale Ends July 31st 2023
Phone: 1300 797 007 Fax: 1300 789 777
Mail Orders: mailorder<at>altronics.com.au
» Perth: 174 Roe St
» Joondalup: 2/182 Winton Rd
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08 9428 2188
08 9428 2166
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08 9428 2169
08 9428 2170
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Please Note: Resellers have to pay the cost of freight & insurance. Therefore the range of stocked products & prices charged by individual resellers may vary from our catalogue.
© Altronics 2023. E&OE. Prices stated herein are only valid until date shown or until stocks run out. Prices include GST and exclude freight and insurance. See latest catalogue for freight rates.
*All smartphone devices pictured in this catalogue are for illustration purposes only. Not included with product.
B 0007
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Using Electronic Modules with Jim Rowe
Quason VL6180X
- Laser rangefinder
- Light level sensor
This module should be of particular interest if you want
to build robotic devices. It uses infrared (IR) light to accurately
sense the proximity of objects from 0mm to well over 100mm. It’s based
on a technology known as FlightSense, patented by ST Microelectronics.
T
he Quason VL6180X range-
sensing module comes on a tiny
17.8 × 20.3mm PCB with a handful of
SMD components on it. As you can see
from the photos, it includes three SOT23-3 devices and one 12-lead SMD IC,
itself only 4.8 × 2.8 × 1mm.
The secret is all inside that innocent-
looking 12-lead IC in the centre of the
PCB. There’s a lot more in that tiny
package than you might expect. It’s a
complete optical ranging system with
a tiny IR (infrared) laser, two optical
sensors (one for IR, the other for ambient light sensing), plus a microcontroller unit (MCU) with internal memory.
This IC is the heart of the VL6180X
sensing module – the rest of the components are there just to support it.
Inside the VL6180X
The IR laser driver section is shown
in the centre, with the range detection
section just above the MCU.
To make a ranging measurement,
the MCU first sends a command pulse
to the IR laser driver to send out a
short IR light pulse at a wavelength
of 850nm. Then, it measures the time
until the ranging detection section
reports that a reflected IR pulse has
been received.
The MCU can then calculate the current distance to the object that reflected
the IR pulse, by taking into account the
speed of light in air and the time taken
for the out-and-back journey.
The speed of light in air is close to
299,702,458m/s (metres per second),
which equates to 299.702m per microsecond or 0.2997m per nanosecond.
Fig.1: the block diagram for
the VL6180X rangefinder
IC. The internals appear
quite simple, with a
separate section for the
light sensing, IR emitter
and ranging. However,
very precise timing
is required to make
calculations down to the
millimetre resolution, so
the actual circuitry is more
complicated than you
might think.
It’s made by European semiconductor manufacturer ST Microelectronics and uses its patented FlightSense
technology.
Unlike optical sensors that attempt
to detect distance by measuring the
proportion of light sent to an object
that is reflected back from it, ST’s technology accurately measures the time
the light takes to travel to the nearest
object and reflect back to its sensor,
which ST calls the ‘time of flight’. In
short, it’s a kind of light-based radar
or ‘LIDAR’.
Fig.1 shows what’s inside the
VL6180X and should help in understanding how it works. Near the bottom is the MCU with its ROM (readonly memory) and RAM (random-
access memory) below it, while above
it is the ambient light sensing section.
siliconchip.com.au
So light takes close to 3.336ns to
travel one metre or 0.3336ns to travel
100mm. If the out-and-back journey of
the light takes, say, 0.6672ns, the total
path length is 200mm, so the distance
between the sensor and the object must
be 100mm.
The key to this method of determining distance is precise measurements
of very short time delays. To measure
over a range of 1-100mm with 1mm
resolution, the chip must have a timer
capable of measuring the difference
between emission and reception from
just 7ps (picoseconds) to 667ps with
7ps resolution or better. One picosecond is one trillionth (10−12) of a
second!
Such capability is thanks to modern semiconductor manufacturing
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2023 31
Here the module is shown at nearly
three times actual size for clarity.
techniques that can make tiny transistors with predictable properties.
In addition to this ‘time of flight’
range measurement, the VL6180X can
also measure the ambient light level
using the sensor and ambient light
sensing (ALS) section shown at the top
of Fig.1. This appears to be a ‘bonus’
feature as it does not factor into the
distance measurements
It can measure light levels between
0.002 lux and 20,971 lux, with what
is described as a ‘photopic’ response.
That means it responds to light wavelengths in the visible range of 400700nm (with a peak at around 550nm)
as seen by the human eye at ‘well-lit’
lighting levels.
The MCU in the VL6180X can
take these measurements either once
or repetitively and can also interleave range and ALS measurements.
It accepts commands and makes the
measurement data available via the
Fig.2: the top of the VL6180X IC
features three tiny holes that are
critical for its functionality. These
apertures are required for sensing
and emission, with the largest being
only 0.58mm in diameter. There is
also an even smaller ‘vent’ hole.
It’s important to note that the light
sensor has a very narrow ‘cone’ and
measures objects up to 150-200mm
away.
32
Silicon Chip
I2C port (pins 5 and 6) at lower right
in Fig.1.
You are probably wondering how all
these impressive things can be done
by the very small and innocent-looking
chip visible in the centre of the module PCB. Although they are not easy
to see with the naked eye, there are
actually three apertures on the top of
the device, located on its centre line
as shown in Fig.2 (which shows the
top of the VL6180X at six times its
actual size).
The largest aperture (0.58mm diameter) near the centre is for the ALS sensor, while the smaller 0.5mm diameter
one near the far end is for the IR ranging laser emissions. The even smaller
0.3mm diameter aperture near the ALS
at the pin 1 end is for the IR ranging
return sensor. A fourth and very tiny
‘vent’ hole is at lower centre, midway
between pins 3 and 4.
The VL6180X is designed to operate
from a supply of 2.8V ±0.2V, with an
average operating current of 1.7mA in
ranging mode or 300µA in ALS mode.
The current it draws in standby mode
is less than 1µA. And the I2C interface
can operate at up to 400kHz, with a
7-bit address of 0x29 (41 decimal).
The full module
Fig.3 shows the complete circuit
of the Quason module, with the all-
important VL6180X device (IC1) visible at lower left. At top centre is REG1,
an XC6206 LDO voltage regulator used
to step down the 5V input supply (at
pin 7 of CON1) to the 2.8V needed by
IC1. The 2.8V from REG1 is also made
Useful links
• www.aliexpress.com
• www.st.com/content/st_com/
en.html
• www.arduinolibraries.info/
libraries/vl6180-x
• github.com/adafruit/Adafruit_
VL6180X
available at pin 6 of CON1, for possible use by external circuitry.
Both the GPIO0 and GPIO1 pins of
IC1 are pulled up to 2.8V via 47kW
resistors. The GPIO1 pin is then taken
directly to pin 4 of CON1, while the
GPIO0 pin is connected to pin 3 of
CON1 via diode D1. This allows IC1
to be held in standby mode by pulling
pin 3 of CON1 to ground. That is why
this pin of CON1 is labelled “SHDN”
(for “shutdown”).
Mosfets Q1 and Q2, connected
between the SCL and SDA pins of IC1
and the corresponding pins 2 and 1 of
CON1, provide logic-level conversion.
This way, the 2.8V signal swings at
pins 5 and 6 of IC1 are converted into
5V swings at pins 2 and 1 of CON1,
and vice versa. This allows the module to be connected to external circuitry running from a 5V supply, like
an Arduino or similar MCU.
The way this kind of ‘passive’ level
shifter works is quite clever. Q1 & Q2
are N-channel devices, so they switch
on when their gate voltage (“G”) is significantly higher than the source voltage (“S”). At idle, the source is pulled
to +2.8V via one 10kW resistor, while
the drain is pulled to +5V via another.
Fig.3: the circuit diagram for the Quason module which utilises the VL6180X
IC. Q1 and Q2 are used for logic-level conversion.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
With the gate and source both at +2.8V,
the Mosfet is off, so no current flows.
If IC1 pulls its end low, the gatesource voltage becomes +2.8V, so the
Mosfet switches on and the corresponding pin on CON1 also goes low.
Alternatively, if the pin on CON1 is
externally pulled low (eg, by an MCU),
the Mosfet is initially off. Still, its parasitic ‘body diode’ (visible in Fig.3)
allows the corresponding pin on IC1
to be pulled down to about +0.7V.
The gate-source voltage of that Mosfet is then 2.8V − 0.7V = 2.1V, high
enough for the Mosfet to switch on,
pulling the pin on IC1 down to 0V.
So when one side goes low, the other
does too, but if both sides are allowed
to be pulled high by the pull-up resistors, they remain high at different voltage levels.
Fig.4: the Quason
module can be easily
connected to an
Arduino Uno (or
similar), with just four
leads.
Connecting it to an Arduino
As you can see from Fig.4, connecting the module to an Arduino Uno or
compatible is very straightforward.
The module’s VIN pin connects to the
Arduino’s 5V pin, its GND pin connects to one of the Arduino’s GND
pins, and its SCL and SDA pins connect to the same pins on the Arduino.
You will also need an Arduino
library to get the two communicating, plus a sketch to use the library
to make measurements. A couple of
these libraries are listed on the Arduino website at www.arduinolibraries.
info/libraries/vl6180-x – in both cases,
they provide links to the library ZIP
files on GitHub.
When you download and unzip
either of these libraries, they generously provide example sketches to
get you going.
I downloaded one of these libraries,
added it to my list of libraries in the
Arduino IDE and then loaded one of
its example sketches.
It was only a few minutes before I
could wave my hand up and down
above the VL6180X and see its
As you can see from this enlarged photo, the Quason VL6180X is miniature,
measuring just 17.8 x 20.3mm.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
distance varying in the ranging data
on the Arduino IDE’s Serial Monitor.
It was as simple as that!
So it’s pleasingly easy to get the
Quason VL6180X IR range sensing
module going with an Arduino. This,
plus its low cost, suggests that it
would be very suitable for DIY robotics. You might even be able to use a
couple of the modules to make a digital Theremin!
Where to get it
We obtained the module in the
photos from the Quason Official
Store, one of the vendors on AliExpress (see www.aliexpress.com/
item/1005001572022389.html), for
$4 including shipping. But there are
several other vendors on AliExpress
offering it for similar prices, such as
SuperModule Store, DIY-Victor Store
and HARYE Store.
It is also available from eBay supplier Cakemol8 for just over $10,
including shipping. And Australian
firm AHEM Engineering (https://shop.
ahem.net.au) also seems to have it
for $12.45 (including GST) plus postage cost.
A very similar VL6180X-based
module can be found on the website
of Newcastle firm Core Electronics
(https://core-electronics.com.au) for
$23.15 + $6.00 for shipping. While it
is considerably more expensive than
the AliExpress and eBay sellers, you
are likely to get it within a couple of
days rather than a few weeks due to
being shipped from Australia.
SC
July 2023 33
D
Y
NA MI
Dynamic NFC Tag Features
C
− Compact tag (22 × 31mm)
− Thin credit card/business card
size tag (86 × 54mm)
− Arduino sketch and jig
allows custom tags to be
easily created
− Tags can also be written
from apps
Supported NDEF Tag Types
− Text
− URI/URL (http:, https:, tel:,
mailto: and many more)
− WiFi network handover
− vCard
− MIME file types
N
F
C
G
Supported Chips
A
T
−
−
−
−
−
−
ST25DV04K
ST25DV04KC
ST25DV16K
ST25DV16KC
ST25DV64K
ST25DV64KC
Project by Tim Blythman
Near-field communication (NFC) devices have become widespread,
especially for ‘contactless’ payments. The availability of dynamic NFC
tags means you can now easily create your own custom NFC/RFID Tags.
This article explains how to program NFC chips that can be used as smart
business cards and more.
Y
ou likely have several NFC tags in
your possession. Most bank cards
and stored credit public transport
cards use NFC technology. You might
also hear them referred to as RFID or
contactless cards.
NFC protocols allow communication over distances up to around
5cm using antennas transmitting
and receiving at 13.56MHz. The NFC
Forum is responsible for standardising
NFC technology.
RFID is a broader term technology
that includes NFC, also having systems
that operate at 125kHz and around
900MHz.
It’s now possible to implement your
own ‘dynamic’ NFC tags using a handful of components. ‘Dynamic’ means
that the tag’s contents can be easily
reprogrammed.
While you might be familiar with
how easily NFC allows money to
34
Silicon Chip
leave your bank account, NFC tags
can also allow small amounts of data
to be stored and transferred. With
many mobile smartphones having NFC
chips, we’ll look at some apps that can
work with NFC tags, including reading and writing.
Writing custom data to tags using a
Raspberry Pi Pico microcontroller and
the Arduino IDE is quite easy. Such
tags can also be read back using the
microcontroller too.
These custom tags can contain, for
example, a vCard file. That format
encapsulates the sort of information
typically found on a business card. A
programmed tag thus behaves like a
virtual business card and can be ‘taken’
by simply reading it with an appropriate NFC reader, such as a mobile
phone. The phone can import those
contact details into an address book.
URIs (uniform resource identifiers)
Australia's electronics magazine
such as web addresses can also be
written to a tag (a URI is a more general form of a URL, also known as a
link). Customers can be directed to a
website by tapping their mobile phone
instead of manually entering a web
address, similar to how QR codes are
often used.
NFC technology
Jim Rowe covered an Arduino shield
that uses NFC technology in an article from September 2018 (siliconchip.
au/Article/11236). That article briefly
explained the history and technology
behind NFC.
Despite being based on NFC technology, the shield from the 2018 article (which uses a PN532 NFC controller IC) will not work with these tags
as they use different versions of the
NFC standard. The PN532 can work
with tags that comply with ISO14443A
siliconchip.com.au
(type 2, 3 or 4 tags), while the tags
we are using comply with ISO15693
(type 5 tags).
One of the great advantages of NFC
is that the tag does not need its own
power source. The reader creates an
RF field at 13.56MHz that is picked
up by the tag; it harvests energy from
that to power its internal circuitry.
Since the tag does not need a battery,
it can be tiny. Tags the size of coins
are commonplace, and smaller tags
are possible.
As shown in Fig.1, the coils in the
reader and tag effectively form an aircored transformer, which limits the
practical communications range.
Data is transferred when either the
reader or the tag modulates the RF
field. The reader can do this easily,
as it generates the field, while the tag
can do this by changing its RF impedance. The reader senses this through
changes in the load it sees as it drives
the RF field.
For this project, we’re using a specific type of chip that provides the
dynamic tag feature. Unfortunately
(?), this means that you won’t be able
to hack into your bank card and trick
it into thinking you have more money
than you do!
Terminology
A reader is a device that generates
an RF field and can use this to communicate. You might also hear the term
emitter used, since this device emits
the RF field.
‘Tags’ are simply devices that can
communicate with an NFC reader.
They are typically implemented by
combining a tag-capable chip (which
contains some non-volatile memory)
with an appropriate antenna and perhaps a few passive components.
The antenna is often little more
than a printed foil loop, similar to a
PCB trace antenna, but on a thinner
This timetable
pole at a bus stop
in Queensland
includes an NFC tag
with an NDEF URI
record. It directs
users to a web page
displaying live bus
departure times for
the bus stop.
substrate. We tried a few variations on
custom antennas that we’ll describe
later.
Some tags have an internal EEPROM,
including the chips we are using, in
which case the reader might be able to
write to the tag and change its contents.
Portable tags are commonly found in
the form of a card or a keyfob that can
be easily carried around. You might
also see fixed tags, often in a more
robust enclosure to prevent damage.
The NDEF (NFC Data Exchange Format) specifies headers and other data
that indicate what sort of data the tag
carries; these are the sort of tags this
project allows. NDEF tags are only a
subset of NFC, and other types of NFC
tags exist.
The software we have written
allows you to explore NDEF data at a
low level. Briefly, there is a Capability Container (CC), which indicates
that the tag contains NDEF data and
the amount of available storage space.
This, in turn, points to an NDEF
message, which can contain one or
more NDEF records. An NDEF record
is roughly analogous to the contents of
a single file, although the NDEF message doesn’t have a file system as such.
While NDEF allows multiple
Fig.1: with NFC, an unpowered device (the tag) is powered by the received RF
field and can transmit data back to a reader or emitter by modulating that field.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
messages and records on a tag, for
simplicity, our software only writes
one message containing one record
at a time, although it can read multiple records.
The ST25DV IC
Dynamic tags are those tags that
can be easily reprogrammed. In this
project, we will use members of the
ST25DV family from ST Microelectronics. These parts include the RF
interface needed to implement NFC,
an EEPROM and an I2C interface that
allows their internal EEPROM to be
modified and thus present changing
data to an NFC reader.
Many tags, including those from the
ST25DV family, can also be written
over the RF interface, provided that
the ‘reader’ also has write capabilities,
as many do. One of the apps we tried
(from ST Microelectronics) can write
to these chips.
You don’t necessarily need to use
the I2C interface to work with these
chips, but it is an easy way to do so.
In fact, many readers (especially
those on mobile phones) can also
emulate tags; this is the basis of how
‘pay by phone’ technology works. The
phone emulates a virtual contactless
credit card.
The specific chips we are using are
the ST25DV04K, and they have 512
bytes of EEPROM space (with maybe
a dozen bytes taken up by the NDEF
headers). Data such as that found in
brief text files is an excellent candidate
for being passed around, including the
vCards mentioned earlier.
Similar chips from the same family
can hold up to 8kB, which will also
work with all the software we will discuss, but we haven’t concentrated on
them mainly because of how long it
July 2023 35
takes to transfer that much data over
an NFC link.
Possible uses
Some people will find it convenient to program tags once and then
use them as smart business cards or to
pass other information around.
For example, you might provide a
tag to allow guests to connect to your
WiFi network when they visit. You
could attach a tag to an object containing text information about that object.
You might have heard of ‘smart posters’ being used in advertising. These
are nothing more than printed posters
accompanied by a tag that provides
information beyond what is printed
on the poster.
One use we have seen ‘in the wild’ is
a tag at a bus stop. The tag is enclosed
in a sturdy plastic shell and attached to
the post that holds up a printed timetable (see photo). This is a simple but
practical application.
This tag contains a URI NDEF message that points to a web page providing live bus departure times for that
specific stop, supplementing the fixed
information on the printed timetable.
Screen 1 shows a scan of this tag by
one of the apps we will discuss later.
It also uses a chip from ST Microelectronics (but a different one).
We have written an Arduino program that can add several types of
records to these cards. As well as the
Screen 1: an ST25 NFC Tap app scan
of the bus stop tags shown in the photo.
It has a much smaller capacity than
the tags we are using, but still enough
for a URI pointing to a web page.
36
Silicon Chip
Fig.2: the circuit is very simple and, as you can see from our photos, it’s possible
to create it on a small breakout board. Other variants of tag chip IC1 have other
functions broken out on more pins, but they are in packages that are difficult to
hand-solder, such as WLCSP (wafer-level chip scale package).
vCards and URIs mentioned earlier, it
can also create simple text file records
and WiFi ‘handover’ records. Such
a record simply contains sufficient
information (SSID name, password
and security type) to allow a device
such as a mobile phone to connect to
a WiFi network.
Another NDEF record type is the
so-called MIME (Multipurpose Internet Mail Extension) type. The MIME
standard was developed for email file
attachments and carries information
about a file’s type.
The vCard and WiFi handover
record types are simply MIME records
of a specific type (“text/vcard” and
“application/vnd.wfa.wsc”, respectively).
Thus, a MIME type record could be
used to describe anything that could
be considered a file, although it would
have to fit in the available space on
the tag. The receiving device would
also need to know what to do with it;
we found this was often not the case,
even for common file types.
Also, when we uploaded some
‘large’ files to the 8kB ST25DV64K
chips, they took many seconds to be
downloaded by a reader and often
appeared not to be working due to
this delay.
On the other hand, vCards, WiFi
handover records or URIs (in the form
of web addresses or email addresses)
are widely recognised and will be the
most useful types for custom tags.
With that out of the way, we’ll show
you how to construct a Tag using these
dynamic tag chips, then use our Arduino software to program them for a
specific use.
We’ll also show how to create Tags
using various antennas, followed by
using several apps to interact directly
Australia's electronics magazine
with the Tags over the RF interface,
including reading and writing to them.
PCB tags
Fig.2 shows the schematic of our
small PCB-based tags; IC1 is the chip
that implements the dynamic tag function. It could be one of several chips
from the ST25DV family, but we used
the ST25DV04K variant for most of our
testing, and that is what we specify in
the parts list.
We have developed two different
PCBs that implement this same basic
circuit (see Figs.3 & 4).
CON1 provides a breakout for all the
pins of IC1 except those that connect to
the antenna. The two resistors are the
pullups needed for the I2C SDA and
SCL lines, while the 100nF capacitor
provides supply bypassing when the
chip is powered from CON1.
Pins 2 and 3 (AC0 and AC1) connect to a PCB trace antenna. IC1 has an
internal tuning capacitance of 28.5pF,
meaning that an inductance of 4.7μH
is needed for resonance at 13.56MHz.
The larger PCB has five turns for the
antenna, while the smaller PCB has
fourteen turns, seven on each side.
In practice, we found that the circuit
wasn’t too fussy about the exact coil
dimensions. Later, we’ll discuss some
of the alternative coils that we tried.
The remaining pins on IC1 are VEH
and GPO. The GPO pin is an opendrain output that can be programmed
to drive its output low under certain
conditions, such as while an RF signal
is being received, or a write is being
performed to the internal EEPROM.
The VEH pin (also when appropriately programmed) can deliver an
unregulated voltage harvested from the
external RF field, when available. In
practice, we found this could be up to
siliconchip.com.au
◀ Our prototype Tag is constructed on
a SOIC-8 breakout board and uses
a 4.7μH wirewound inductor as the
antenna. The passive components
are on the back of the PCB, and the
circuit is practically identical to our
final designs.
Connecting an antenna to pins 2 and
3 of the IC is sufficient to create a
functional Tag. The antenna can be as
simple as a 4.7μH inductor or many
turns of enamelled copper wire. The
wire antenna shown here uses just
over 1m of wire. Be sure to strip the
enamel from the ends of the wire
before attempting to solder it.
about 4V at up to 10mA. Naturally, this
will depend on the reader and other
factors, such as the antenna efficiency.
In one simple test, we hooked a
light-emitting diode (LED) directly
between the VEH and GND pins. After
changing the appropriate registers to
allow energy harvesting to operate,
we got it to light up (when in a reader’s RF field).
A simple tag (accessible by RF only)
could consist of little more than the IC
and an appropriate antenna. The passives are only needed if the I2C interface is required.
Other tags
Since the tag chips can be programmed by RF as well as I2C, it’s
possible to create a tag with nothing
more than a chip and an antenna. You
also could set up a rig using an SOIC
socket of the correct width to program
the chips before soldering them to an
antenna.
We even used one of our smaller
PCBs (populated with everything
except the chip) as a programming
rig with the trick of holding the chip
in place using a clothes peg. That was
sufficient to allow testing of the tag via
its RF interface, too.
The photos show a few of the prototypes we created to see whether it was
possible to make a workable antenna
without a PCB. As you can see, the
answer is just about anything, within
reason.
The photo above shows our first
prototype, based on a small SOIC-8
to DIP-8 IC adaptor PCB. The antenna
is actually a 6mm SMD inductor that
is designed for this application. This
prototype was great for testing how
things should work, including the I2C
interface.
siliconchip.com.au
The group of photos at upper right
shows some antenna-only designs,
including the design that inspired our
first PCB. It is simply fourteen loops
of enamelled wire soldered to the AC0
and AC1 pins of a tag chip. The diameter of the coils is just over 2cm, using
a little over a metre of wire.
This set also shows a circuit with
an axial leaded inductor with a nominal 4.7μH inductance, as well as
the wirewound inductor seen in the
previous photo. We also tried a tiny
(M2012/0805) SMD inductor, shown
in the upper right corner, but the reader
did not pick it up.
This correlation between size and
sensitivity also extended to the larger
tags, with the larger PCB design being
the most sensitive. We judged this
simply on the distance from which the
tag could be detected by the reader,
being nearly 5cm for the larger PCB
design.
Another reason the smaller SMD
inductor didn’t work, besides its size,
might be that it has a shielded construction. Larger shielded inductors
◀
are also available; avoid using them,
as they will not work well as antennas.
If you build a Tag without the I2C
interface, you won’t be able to use the
Arduino Programming Rig that we will
describe later. You will only be able to
program the Tags using apps installed
on a mobile phone or a similar reader.
PCB designs
The two Tag PCBs are shown in
Figs.3 & 4 and the photos overleaf. The
smaller PCB is coded 06101231 and
measures 22 × 31mm, while the larger
PCB is coded 06101232 and measures
85.5 × 54mm.
The usual SMD tools and supplies
will be adequate for building the PCBbased tags. This includes solder, flux
paste, tweezers, good lighting and a
fine-tipped iron. Fume extraction is
recommended when working with
flux paste due to the amount of smoke
it generates.
For the smaller PCB (06101231),
assembly is straightforward. Apply
flux to the pads of the four SMD components and rest each in place. IC1 is
Figs.3 & 4: assembling the smaller PCB is pretty straightforward. The larger PCB
is a little trickier as the components are nestled into cutouts. Still, if you’ve done
any SMD soldering, you should be able to use similar techniques to do that.
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2023 37
The larger card Tag PCB has cutouts so that the components
are internal and don’t increase the overall thickness; the SOIC IC is
nearly exactly the same thickness as the PCB! You’ll need careful use of flux
and solder wick to fit the components. You can create a more polished look by gluing
paper or cardboard (or sticking a sticker) to the front and back of the PCB.
the only polarised part, so check that
the chamfer along one edge (best seen
from the end of the chip) aligns with
the marking on the PCB.
Tack one lead of each component
and ensure the remaining leads are
within their respective pads. Then solder the remaining leads and refresh the
first leads. Check for solder bridges and
use solder-wicking braid to remove
them.
The larger PCB (coded 06101232) is
designed to have the components sit
inside slots so that they are no thicker
than the PCB itself. We used a silicone soldering mat to align the components vertically within the slots.
Rather than resting on surface pads,
the parts are soldered to exposed edges
of the plated-through holes. The photos above show the final result.
Fig.5: the wiring from the Pico to
the Tag is simple; you can solder a
four-pin header to the Pico and plug
the Tag onto that. You can also use a
breadboard if you have soldered fulllength headers to your Pico.
◀
IC1 is very close to the same thickness as the PCB (1.6mm), while the
passives are much thinner. This is an
experimental technique, so it is best
suited to constructors with some SMD
soldering experience.
Before soldering the components,
check the pads for copper swarf or
burrs, as some may be left from the
milling process during PCB manufacture. We found it wasn’t necessary to
remove any burrs unless they could
cause a short circuit or interfere with
component placement.
The technique is similar to regular
SMD work in that each component
should be initially secured by one
lead. Use tweezers to locate the part
before tacking, after which the remaining leads can be soldered.
You might need to build up a small
fillet of solder to ensure a mechanically
sound connection. Inspect the joints
and use flux and solder-wicking braid
as necessary to tweak the location and
amount of solder.
For IC1, first tack the leads along
one edge. Then flip the PCB over and
gently bend out the IC leads along
the other edge to be closer to the PCB
pads. Solder these leads to their corresponding pads.
We found that the best results came
from using a generous amount of solder and flux. We then applied solder
braid to the PCB pads only to draw off
excess solder, relying on surface tension to keep a suitable amount of solder connecting the lead.
If you like, a pin header can be soldered to CON1 on either PCB, but if
you only intend to program the tag
The smaller Tag is a straightforward
SMD design. The staggered holes
on CON1 allow a header to be
temporarily friction-fitted for
programming. That avoids the need to
fit the bulky headers permanently.
38
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
once, simply holding the header in
place should be sufficient. We’ve offset the holes slightly to give a firm
friction fit.
If you wish to add some polish to
your Tag PCBs, you could glue paper
or cardboard (such as your own paper
business card) to the front and back of
the PCB. You could even get custom
stickers of the right size made.
The programming jig
Our programming jig is simple
and just requires a Raspberry Pi Pico
(or Pico W) with four connections to
CON1 on the Tag PCB. We used the
Arduino IDE to write the program, as
a good Arduino library is available to
work with these chips.
If you want to modify or work with
our code and don’t have the Arduino
IDE installed, download and install
it from www.arduino.cc/en/software
Still, you don’t need the Arduino
IDE to try our sketch out. Simply hold
down the white BOOTSEL button on
the Raspberry Pi Pico while plugging
it into a computer. Then copy the
“0610123A.UF2” file (available from
our website) to the drive that appears.
It’s typically named “RPI-RP2”.
If you want to program tags beyond
what our sketch can do or tweak the
sketch, you will need the SparkFun
ST25DV64KC library in addition to
the Arduino IDE. This will also work
with other chips, including the -04K,
-16K, -64K, -04KC and -16KC variants.
We’ve included a copy of the version
we used in the software download.
It can also be found by searching for
“st25dv” in the Arduino Library Manager. As well as the SparkFun library,
this will show a library from ST Microelectronics, but that one appears to be
designed to work with Arduino boards
based on their (STM) microcontrollers
and not the Pico.
We’ve designed the interface to
use four adjacent pins on the Pico.
These correspond to the four I2C pins
on CON1 of either PCB. Pin GP28 is
driven high as an output to provide
3.3V. Next to it is a ground pin followed by pins GP27 and GP26 to provide I2C SDA and SCL, respectively.
Fig.5 shows the connections needed.
The simplest way to achieve this is to
solder a four-way pin header to the
Pico, allowing the Tag to be friction
fitted. However, you could use a breadboard or even solder wires if you like.
The RF and I2C interfaces can
siliconchip.com.au
TAG Programming Interface.
ST25 found on I2C.
~ Reboot microcontroller.
r Read NDEF entries (1,2,3,4 for specific entry or blank for all).
a Decode NDEF entries (1,2,3,4 for specific entry or blank for all).
c Decode CC and NDEF headers
i Read UID data.
e Erase EEPROM and write blank NDEF.
w Write NDEF entries:
wt Write text NDEF.
ww Write WiFi NDEF.
wu Write URI NDEF.
wv Write vCard NDEF.
wm Write text MIME type.
wb Write binary (hex) MIME type.
d Dump raw EEPROM.
h Write raw hex (haaaadd) to EEPROM.
o Open I2C session.
s Dump system memory.
l Set RF write lock bits (0=allowed 3=never).
Screen 2: the main menu of our programming jig software has the options
shown here. While there are quite a few commands, many are to explore the
structure of the data on the Tags and are not needed to create your own Tags.
i
UID value:
E0:02:24:67:09:12:1E:EA
ST25DV04K-IE found.
EEPROM is 512 bytes.
c
Capability Container:
Short (4 byte) CC version 1.0, 512 bytes available for NDEF.
TLV record at 0x0004:
NDEF message 23 bytes starting at 0x0006:
NDEF record found at 0x0006.
MB ME CF SR IL TNF
1 1 0 1 0 NFC type
URI type.
1 bytes of type, 19 bytes of payload, 0 bytes of ID.
URI Prefix code: 4:https://
siliconchip.com.au
ME flag ends message.
TLV record at 0x001d:
NDEF terminator.
Scan complete.
Screen 3: the “i” command checks what type of tag chip you have and its
capacity, while the “c” command allows you to verify that the NDEF headers
are present and correct.
coexist, but communication cannot
occur on both simultaneously. So
you can leave the Tag connected to
the programming jig while testing
the Tag with a reader, as long as you
don’t attempt to read or write at the
same time.
To control the programming jig
from your computer, you will also
need a serial terminal program, such
as TeraTerm on Windows or minicom
on Linux. The Arduino IDE’s serial
monitor has limited functionality and
will work for some commands, but
not all. Verify that your serial terminal program uses CR or CR/LF as the
line ending. The program checks for
CR and ignores LF.
Programming Tags
After connecting to the Pico’s virtual
Australia's electronics magazine
serial port with the terminal program, you should see the main menu
(Screen 2). Check that the message
“ST25 found on I2C” is shown before
proceeding.
If you don’t see it, check your connections and use the “~” command to
reboot the Pico if necessary, forcing it
to test for communication again.
Each command consists of one or
two letters (followed by Enter), after
which you may be prompted for additional parameters depending on the
command. Screen 3 shows the output
of the basic “i” and “c” commands,
while Table 1 details the available
commands.
The “i” command provides information about the tag chip’s serial number,
which can be used to deduce the part
number. The part number includes
July 2023 39
Table 1 – commands for the programming jig
CMD Function
Reprint menu
~ Reboot Pico
Notes
Simply press Enter on a blank line.
Use to refresh after connecting a Tag.
r Read NDEF messages
Uses the SparkFun library to decode NDEF data.
from EEPROM; use 1-4
for a specific record (eg,
“r1”)
a Decode NDEF
Uses custom code to perform a more detailed
messages from
analysis than the “r” command.
EEPROM. Use 1-4 for a
specific record (eg, “a1”)
c Decode capability
container and NDEF
messages
Uses custom code and provides more detail of the
structure of the NDEF data rather than contents.
i Read UID data and
check memory capacity
The part number is printed if a known chip type is
identified (including the supported chips).
e Erase EEPROM (to
zeroes) and write
a blank capability
container
Use this on a new chip to format it and allow NDEF
records to be written. You can also use this to
remove any previous data when reusing a Tag.
wt Write an NDEF text
record to the Tag
Prompts for text that can include line endings.
Use Ctrl-D or Ctrl-Z to finish or Ctrl-C or Escape to
cancel.
ww Write a WiFi handover
record to the Tag
Prompts for SSID (name), password and security
and encryption types.
wu Write a URI NDEF record Prompts for URI type (eg, “http:”, “mailto:”) and URI
to the Tag
text. The URI type simply allows common types to
be easily abbreviated and can be omitted by using
URI type zero (blank).
wv Write a vCard NDEF
record to the Tag
40
Creates a version 2.0 vCard file and prompts for all
mandatory fields for that format. Also prompts for
custom fields.
wm Write text MIME type to
the Tag
Uses the same scheme as “wt” but allows the
MIME type to be specified. Most mobile phones
will treat “text/plain” types the same as an NDEF
text type record, if they have an app that supports
that type.
wb Write binary MIME type
to the Tag
Prompts for MIME type and accepts hex bytes
(or single nibbles if separated by white space).
Use Ctrl-D or Ctrl-Z to finish or Ctrl-C or Escape to
cancel.
d Dump ASCII and text
contents of the Tag’s
EEPROM
This is handy for viewing the raw EEPROM
contents if you want to see how the NDEF entries
are encoded and decoded.
h Write a single byte to
EEPROM
The format is “haaaadd” where aaaa is a 16-bit
address and dd is 8-bit data in hexadecimal
format.
o Opens a security
session using the
default ‘00000000’
password
This is needed to permit command “l” to work.
s Dump system memory
and dynamic registers
You would only use this if you were interested in
the advanced features of the chip.
l Modify the RF lock bits
“l0” clears the lock bits and allows RF writes to
EEPROM. “l3” forbids RF writes to EEPROM, so the
contents can only be modified via I2C.
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
the EEPROM size in kilobits; the
ST25DV04K part shown has 4 kilobits
(512 bytes) of EEPROM.
The “c” command interprets any
NDEF data that is present. What is
shown in Screen 3 is typical for a tag
with a single URI entry, in this case, a
link to the Silicon Chip website.
Screen 4 shows a raw dump of the
EEPROM contents in both ASCII (at
left) and hexadecimal (at right). The
link text is visible, preceded by some
header data. You don’t need to know
the header formats, as the library can
generate them.
The minimal steps for creating a
custom tag start with the “e” command to erase the tag contents if it is
not blank. While the chips start out
empty, the library depends on the
appropriate capability container entry
existing, which is also added by the
“e” command.
Follow that with one of the “w”
commands to write an appropriate
NDEF entry. The “wt” (text) and “wu”
(URI) options prompt for a single entry
to be written to the tag. The “ww” command asks for the WiFi name (SSID),
password, authentication and encryption types.
The two MIME commands, “wm”
and “wb”, allow a MIME type to be
specified, with the file contents following. The “wm” option can handle
text input, including control codes like
CR (carriage return) and TAB. Press
Ctrl-D or Ctrl-Z (end-of-file) to complete these entries; Ctrl-C or Escape
can be used to cancel.
The “wb” command expects bytes
to be entered as pairs of hexadecimal
digits. Single hexadecimal digits can
be entered if a space separates them.
The same Ctrl-D or Ctrl-Z sequence
completes the file.
We often use the HxD hex editor on
Windows to view files in hexadecimal
format. This program also allows the
hexadecimal data to be copied and
pasted directly into the “wb” command. However, you should be careful only to paste small amounts of data
at a time so that the terminal and Pico
can keep up with processing the data.
After entering the data, confirm the
write and see that the data is written
correctly. At this stage, the Tag should
register if held near an NFC reader
such as a smartphone. Most phones
should process URIs, WiFi handover
records and vCard files without needing extra apps.
siliconchip.com.au
If you have trouble, ensure your
mobile phone has NFC (not all do!),
and it is turned on in the settings.
Most newer phones should allow
you to search your settings; typing
“nfc” should be sufficient to find the
right one.
If you wish to lock the Tag so that it
cannot be edited by someone accessing it via its RF interface, use the “o”
command to open a security session.
There is a default password consisting
of eight zero bytes, which is assumed
to be unchanged. Finally, use the “l3”
command to set the write permissions
to ‘never allow RF to write’.
This won’t change the I2C permissions, so you can continue to edit the
Tag content without unlocking the Tag
for RF writes. Unlocking for RF writes
is done with the “l0” command.
d
Area 1 RF access lock bits are set
Memory is 512 bytes.
0 1 2 3
0000 .<at><at>......U.silic E1 40 40 00
0010 onchip.com.au... 6F 6E 63 68
0020 ................ 00 00 00 00
.
.
.
0130 ................ 00 00 00 00
to 3;read always, write never allowed.
4 5 6 7 8 9 A B C D E F
03 17 D1 01 13 55 04 73 69 6C 69 63
69 70 2E 63 6F 6D 2E 61 75 FE FF FF
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
Screen 4: a raw dump of the tag chip’s EEPROM can be handy for exploring the
layout of the NDEF card structure. You can make out the URI content as raw text.
◀ Screen 5: the tabs on the ST25
NFC Tap app allow you to view
and edit the tags and their NDEF
contents. This app might be all
you need to program tags.
Apps
We’ll look at a couple of Android
apps to read and write to these Tags.
At the time of writing, it appears that
there are iOS versions of these apps,
which we expect to be fairly similar,
although we haven’t tried them.
The first is ST Microelectronics’
“ST25 NFC Tap” app, which is clearly
targeted to work with this range of
chips. You should, of course, ensure
that your mobile phone supports NFC
and that it is turned on.
This app allows you to do many of
the things that the Arduino Programming Rig can do, although we found
it occasionally crashed if the card was
moved while reading or writing.
Screen 1 shows a typical overview.
The NDEF and CC FILE tabs allow the
NDEF data to be viewed and edited,
while the MEMORY tab allows the
EEPROM to be directly viewed (similar to using the “d” command in the
Programming Rig).
Screen 5 shows the NDEF tab. You
can use the button at bottom right (cut
off in the screen grab shown) to create a new NDEF record, while one of
the buttons at top right allows NDEF
records to be cloned. If you haven’t
built the Arduino programming rig,
cloning is probably the easiest way to
create multiple identical Tags.
This app can add multiple NDEF
records to a single Tag; Screen 6 shows
some of the record types that can be
added. SMS and email records are specific types of URI records.
An SMS record has the format
“sms:(phone number)?body=(message
siliconchip.com.au
Screen 6: the ST25 NFC
Tap app can create various
NDEF record types, as
shown here. There is
also a tab that allows the
EEPROM to be directly
edited.
◀
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2023 41
Parts List – Dynamic NFC Tag
1 22 × 31mm double-sided PCB coded 06101231 OR
1 86 × 54mm double-sided PCB coded 06101232
1 ST25DV04K dynamic NFC tag chip, SOIC-8 (IC1) ●
2 4.7kW ⅛W M3216/1206 SMD resistor
1 100nF 50V X7R M3216/1206 ceramic ‘chip’ capacitor
Programming jig parts
1 Raspberry Pi Pico (or Pico W) microcontroller board programmed with
0610123A.UF2
1 4-way male pin header, 2.54mm pitch
● there are other options, listed in the introduction of the article
Dynamic NFC Tag Kit:
we will be selling kits
containing one of the
two types of PCB, the
tag IC and three passive
components.
SC6747 ($5) is for the
kit which includes the
smaller PCB
SC6748 ($7.50) is for
the kit which includes
the larger PCB.
Screen 7: the NXP
TagInfo app can read
tags and also decode
NDEF messages and
records. There is also
an NXP TagWriter app
that we have not tried. It
could possibly be used to
customise Tags too.
text)”, with the bracketed items
replaced by the phone number and
message text (without brackets),
respectively. You could also use the
Arduino Programming Rig to create
such a record as a URI type.
An email record has a similar format, using the “mailto:” URI type (type
6) followed by an email address. It can
optionally have a “?subject=...” field as
well as body text (“&body=...”).
Most mobile phones that we tested
were able to handle all those records.
We’re familiar with the NXP TagInfo
app, as this can also read ISO14443A
cards, such as those that can be read by
PN532-based modules. Screen 7 shows
a scan of a Tag containing a URI NDEF
record using the TagInfo app.
Since it can read and interpret NDEF
messages, this can be used to validate
that Tags have been written correctly
by either the Arduino Programming
Rig or the ST25 app.
Conclusion
NFC tags are common these days,
and we think many readers will relish the opportunity to create their own
smart business cards and custom Tags.
We are investigating other ways
to use these Tags. One idea is to use
them to configure projects wirelessly
without needing screens, displays or
buttons to be built into the project.
That could save quite a bit of time
and money.
In such a project, the Tag circuit
described here becomes part of the
project, with IC1 accessed over an I2C
bus. The project can read (or write) its
configuration to a text NDEF record on
the Tag, which a suitably equipped
smartphone or tablet can then view
or edit.
There are undoubtedly other excellent applications for these Dynamic
Tags, and we look forward to thinking of new ways to use them in future
SC
projects.
We soldered a four-way header to
the GP26, GP27, AGND and GP28
pins of the Pico. The holes in the
Tag PCBs are staggered slightly
to make good enough contact for
programming without soldering.
Check that the orientation and pin
connections are correct, so you
don’t destroy the chip or the Pico.
42
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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Electronics in Australia
Jim Rowe’s time at RTV&H and Electronics Australia
In August & September 2022, Silicon Chip founder Leo Simpson covered the
magazine’s history and touched on some of its predecessors: Radio, TV & Hobbies
and Electronics Australia. Jamieson (Jim) Rowe was an important figure at both
magazines, working on and off for them over 40-odd years before joining the Silicon
Chip team. Here is his part of the story.
◀ Editor John Moyle on the front cover of the May
1948 issue of Radio & Hobbies, using a micrometer
to check the thickness of a quartz crystal he was
grinding.
The July 1987 issue of Electronics Australia, when
Jim Rowe returned to head the magazine, after Leo
Simpson had departed – soon to found Silicon Chip. ◀
F
irst, I will give a bit of early magazine history. The first 12-page issue
of Wireless Weekly was published in
Sydney on the 4th of August, 1922. It
was published by W. J. Maclardy, one
of the founders of Sydney radio station
2SB (later renamed 2BL), at the suggestion of Florence Violet McKenzie.
Florence was Australia’s first female
electrical engineer and first female
radio amateur, who owned a wireless shop at that time in the Royal
Arcade (where Sydney’s Hilton Hotel
44
Silicon Chip
currently stands). Ms McKenzie wrote
many articles for Wireless Weekly and
later was awarded an OBE for her work
in founding the Women’s Emergency
Signalling Corps (WESC).
We reviewed her biography, “Radio
Girl” in the February 2022 issue
(siliconchip.au/Article/15203).
By the start of commercial radio
broadcasting in 1923, the magazine
flourished, with issues often over 64
pages. Later in 1923, the magazine was
sold to Wireless Newspapers Ltd and
Australia's electronics magazine
continued to grow until April 1939,
when it was changed into a monthly
release and renamed Radio and Hobbies (R&H).
Initially, the Editor of the magazine was A. G. (‘Braith) Hull, while
the Technical Editor was John Moyle,
who had joined Wireless Weekly in
1932 as a technical writer and record
reviewer. Within 12 months, A. G. Hull
had left to join rival magazine Australasian Radio World as its Editor, while
John Moyle took over as Editor of R&H.
siliconchip.com.au
◀ Neville Williams, who joined
Radio & Hobbies as Technical
Editor in 1941. He became the
Editor of Radio, TV & Hobbies
in 1960 and then Editor-in-Chief
of Electronics Australia in
March 1971.
Jim Rowe pictured at his
typewriter in late 1963, when he
was Technical Editor of Radio,
TV & Hobbies. He remained in
this position when the magazine
became Electronics Australia
in 1965. ◀
Then, in 1941, Neville Williams
joined R&H as Technical Editor.
Later in 1941, John Moyle joined the
RAAF to become an instructor in the
then-highly-secret radar technology.
He remained in the RAAF until 1946,
rising to the rank of Squadron Leader
and working mainly in Melbourne,
where he was made responsible for
the production of all radar manuals.
He visited the R&H office in Sydney
occasionally, where Neville Williams
had taken over as Acting Editor for
the duration.
When John Moyle returned to R&H
in 1946, he became Editor once again,
and Neville Williams returned to the
position of Technical Editor. They
worked together very well, and the
magazine flourished. They developed
and published many designs for radio
sets, stereo hifi amplifiers and monochrome TV receivers, the latter initially using war-surplus cathode ray
tubes and other ‘bits and pieces’.
Later, they published four full-scale
TV receiver projects but stopped when
the prices of commercial TV receivers
dropped to the point where home-built
sets became unattractive.
In February 1955, the magazine’s
name was changed from Radio and
Hobbies to Radio, Television & Hobbies to better indicate its relevance to
the rapidly expanding field of television.
In 1956, John Moyle went on an
around-the-world fact-finding tour,
visiting many places in the UK, Europe
and the USA and meeting many leaders of electronics research and manufacturing firms. He had been an amateur radio enthusiast for many years
and served as president of the NSW
Division of the Wireless Institute of
Australia (WIA) before holding Federal office.
Then, in 1959, he attended the
siliconchip.com.au
International Telecommunications
Union (ITU) conference in Geneva,
Switzerland, representing Australian
radio amateurs.
Originally he had planned to revisit
the UK and the USA after the ITU
conference, but he became quite ill in
Geneva and was advised by a doctor to
return home without delay for urgent
treatment. He passed away in hospital on the 10th of March, 1960. He was
only 52 but had achieved a great deal
during that short life.
This was how his passing was noted
by the Institution of Radio Engineers
(Australia) in their Proceedings for
April 1960:
He was one of the best technical
journalists this country has known;
his lucid thinking and enquiring mind
led him along paths which few of us
have travelled. His journalistic talents
are forever engraved upon the technical pedestal of Australian literature.
slog, but AWA was very good at giving
its trainees a solid practical grounding
in just about every aspect of radio and
TV manufacturing.
I spent a couple of months in the
press shop, a couple of months in
‘mills and drills’, another couple of
months in the plating shop, a month
in the section where they made rotary
switches, a month in the section where
loudspeakers were assembled and
tested, another month in the section
where they made tuning gang capacitors, and a month in the section in
Belmore where they ground and tested
quartz crystals.
It was comprehensive training, but
by the end of 1958, I became restless
at AWA. I was still doing tedious ‘process’ work, like assembling complex
wiring looms for broadcasting transmitters or testing small Army transceivers.
Some personal prehistory
I (Jim Rowe) was born in 1939 (the
same year that R&H began!) and grew
up in South Belmore - then regarded
as an outer western working-class suburb of Sydney. As a teenager, I became
interested in electronics while working on Saturdays for Stan Blackmore,
who ran a radio and TV sales and
repair shop near Belmore station.
When I left high school with my
leaving certificate in March 1957, I was
lucky enough to be accepted as an engineering trainee by AWA (Amalgamated
Wireless Australia), then the largest
radio, TV and electronics manufacturing plant in the southern hemisphere.
In early 1957, I began work as a
trainee at AWA’s main manufacturing
facility in Ashfield and studying parttime at Sydney Technical College in
Ultimo, working towards a diploma
in radio engineering. It was a bit of a
Australia's electronics magazine
The AWA building in York Street,
Sydney was their head office until the
1990s. It was also the tallest building
in Australia until 1958, the same year
Jim Rowe left AWA.
Source: https://w.wiki/6cuL
July 2023 45
At about that time, some of the engineering schools at Sydney Technical
College cut their ties with the College
and moved out to Kensington. They
became part of the newly formed
University of Technology, soon to be
renamed the University of NSW.
The School of Electrical Engineering was one of the schools that had
moved, and although most of my lectures were still held in their Ultimo
building, they had moved some of
their research and teaching labs to a
building on the Kensington campus.
A fellow student (John Barker) who
had gained a job as a lab assistant in
one of the Ultimo labs told me that
they were looking for lab assistants
for some of the Kensington labs. The
pay was not only better than that for
AWA engineering trainees, but that
job also gave me plenty of time to do
homework and course projects.
So I took a deep breath and applied
for one of those positions. I was lucky
enough to get a lab assistant position
in the Servomechanisms and Control
Labs at Kensington. It worked well,
giving me time to do my course homework and teaching me quite a bit about
servomechanisms.
a letter arrived from Mr Williams
offering me the job and inviting me
to front up at the magazine in early
March 1960. So began my first period
of employment with the magazine,
which was to last for almost 20 years.
Unfortunately, when I joined the
RTV&H staff, its Editor, John Moyle,
was already in hospital and died the
following month. So sad to say, I never
even met him. Before long, Mr Williams became Editor of RTV&H.
While I was working at the
Kensington campus, the Uni of Technology became the Uni of NSW. At
the same time, we students in the
Radio Diploma course were offered
the opportunity to transfer into a B.
Sc. (Technology) degree course. It was
with that degree that I finally graduated in early 1963 while continuing to
work at RTV&H.
By the way, after that, I enrolled
in a part-time ‘Arts’ degree course at
Sydney University. I eventually graduated with a somewhat lacklustre B. A.
Introducing RTV&H
About halfway through 1959, I
learned that my friend John Barker
had left the Ultimo labs for a job with
the magazine, Radio, TV and Hobbies.
John told me he was really enjoying
the work at RTV&H, as it was almost
“being paid to do what he would be
happy to do for nothing”.
Not long after that, he rang me at
work and told me that another staff
vacancy was becoming available at
RTV&H. He suggested that I apply for
the job, as he felt sure that I would
enjoy the job as much as he did.
I summoned the courage to apply
and, in due course, fronted up at the
magazine office on the 12th floor of the
Sydney Morning Herald building in
Jones Street, Ultimo for my interview
with the acting Editor at the time, Mr
W. N. Williams.
I found the interview rather daunting because Mr Williams was highly
respected throughout the Australian
electronics industry, having worked
with the famous Fritz Langford-Smith
on the early editions of the world-
renowned “Radiotron Designers Handbook”, the ‘bible’ of valve technology. “Fundamentals of Solid State” was one of the many educational series that Jim
Still, just after Christmas in 1959, Rowe wrote.
46
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
degree in early 1967 [that possibly
came in handy when Jim came to work
for us drawing diagrams – Editor].
Still, I seemed to have ‘found my
niche’ working for RTV&H, and not
long after graduating in electronics,
Mr Williams promoted me to the Technical Editor position. I remained in
that position when the magazine was
revamped and renamed to Electronics
Australia (EA) in mid-1965.
My early days with EA
It was very satisfying and enjoyable
working at RTV&H and then EA during
the 1960s. Neville Williams was a very
experienced, calm and intelligent Editor and leader of the team, and most of
the other staff members were very techsavvy and collaborative. We produced
a great many electronics projects, news
features and technical articles.
Sadly, my friend John Barker left the
magazine at the end of 1960 to pursue greater things. I hope he achieved
them; I am still very grateful that he
helped me join the magazine.
Early in the 1960s, Neville Williams
had written a series of introductory
articles for RTV&H called “Basic Radio
Course”. It was so well received that
some of the other staff members and I
revised and updated the articles, and
they were republished in the magazine
between August 1963 and November
1965.
The demand for back issues containing the articles was so great that we
were encouraged to combine them into
a single magazine-format ‘one-shot’
book called “Basic Electronics Course:
An Introduction to Electronics”, published in 1966. This was also so successful that it had to be reprinted many
times and sold over 55,000 copies.
Then, from June 1966 to May 1967,
I wrote a series of 12 articles on digital
electronics called “Logic and counting circuits”, which was again so well
received that they were published in
1967 as another one-shot book called
“An Introduction to Digital Electronics”.
In 1970, it was revised and expanded
as a second edition. As with “Basic
Electronics Course”, it ended up being
reprinted several times, eventually
selling over 50,000 copies.
I recall that Leo Simpson (later to
become the founder of Silicon Chip)
joined the editorial staff of EA in June
1967.
Starting in about 1968, I wrote a
series of articles in EA titled “Fundamentals of Solid State”, introducing
the basic concepts of semiconductor
devices like diodes, bipolar transistors, FETs, SCRs and other thyristors
– how they operate and how they are
used. In 1970, the articles were published as another one-shot, which
ended up being reprinted several
times, selling around 50,000 copies.
I could not have written the above
series without help from Neville Williams and other staff members like
technical draftsman Bob Flynn.
In March 1971, Neville Williams
was promoted to Editor in Chief of EA,
and I was promoted to the position of
Editor – much to the chagrin of one or
two other staff members.
Designing the EDUC-8
computer
The early 1970s was a time of rapid
developments in electronics and
information technology, with major
breakthroughs in integrated circuits
and computers coming every other
week or so.
So-called ‘minicomputers’ (about
the size of a refrigerator) had just
appeared. As a result, the Fairfax/
Sydney Morning Herald organisation
installed a couple of gleaming new
Digital Equipment PDP-8 minicomputers to begin trialling them for computer typesetting.
The company’s new IT manager,
John Cockram, invited a few people
from various departments to learn
about computers and programming by
attending informal lectures. We could
also gain some practical experience
with the minicomputers during our
lunch hours. I was one of the lucky
few invited to do so, and it gave me
an invaluable introduction to computers, how they worked and how to
program them.
This led me to set myself a personal
challenge: to design a small computer
from scratch, based on what I had
learned about their operation as a user
and beginning programmer. Very few
books were available at that time dealing with the nitty-gritty of internal
computer operation, but somehow, I
managed to meet the challenge.
◀ In the early 1970s, Jim Rowe was lucky enough to get some hands-on
experience programming and using one of the first Digital Equipment PDP-8
minicomputers in Australia, like this one. It inspired him to design the EDUC-8
DIY microcomputer, published as a project in Electronics Australia (there is
still interest in the design to this day).
The EDUC-8 micromputer has a maximum clock rate of 500kHz, five primary
registers and a top power draw of ~60W. You can still purchase the handbook
for this project from our website at siliconchip.com.au/Shop/3/1816
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2023 47
A ‘humorous’ (?) sketch of a not-toohappy Jim Rowe, drawn in 1973 by
Garry Lightfoot.
I used readily available medium-
scale ICs and designed a set of PCBs
– drawing them the old-
fashioned
way, with pens and Indian ink. With
a go-ahead from Neville Williams,
I described my little “EDUC-8” DIY
computer in a series of 12 articles published in EA between August 1974 and
August 1975.
It became the first DIY computer
project to be described in Australia and
only the second in the world. A bloke
in the USA had described a computer
based on one of the new Intel 8008
microprocessor chips in the July 1974
issue of Radio Electronics.
Still, the EDUC-8 project turned out
to be surprisingly popular. We turned
the articles describing it into a oneshot called “EDUC-8: AN EDUCATIONAL MICROCOMPUTER”, published in 1975 and selling about 2,500
copies [still available as a scanned
PDF download; siliconchip.com.au/
Shop/3/1816 – Editor].
About 400 people built one of the
original EDUC-8s, and improved versions also appeared.
Incidentally, all these magazine articles, projects and one-shot books were
produced using old-fashioned technology. The articles were typed one
paragraph at a time on A5-sized ‘copy
slips’ using clunky manual typewriters, the circuit board patterns were created using stick-on tapes and circles,
and all circuit diagrams were done by
Bob Flynn on paper using pens and
other drawing tools.
This was before the advent of personal computers, after all.
Late in 1976, all of the magazines
in the Sydney Morning Herald (SMH)
magazine subsidiary Sungravure were
moved from the SMH building in Jones
Street to a much smaller building a
few blocks away on Regent Street. The
EA editorial office was moved to the
ground floor of the Regent Street building, with magazines like Woman’s Day
and Dolly moving to the upper floors.
The Regent Street building was
much closer to Central Station, which
was a plus for a few of us!
By 1977, we had published quite a
few articles in EA about the rapidly
expanding field of microprocessors.
These had again been quite popular,
so we put them all together as a oneshot book called “Getting into Microprocessors”.
I edited the book, and staff member Greg Swain produced it [the other
founder of Silicon Chip – Editor]. It
was again pretty successful, selling
around 10,000 copies.
Moving on
By the middle of 1979, I had worked
on the editorial staff of EA for nearly
20 years and had been its Editor for
nearly nine of those years. But I was
only 40 and was beginning to feel that
Dick Smith
and Jim Rowe
with one of
the System-80
‘business
computers’,
around 1980.
Jim wrote
the user
manuals for
the System-80
and also some
programs for it.
48
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
I would be stuck in that position for
the rest of my working life.
Earlier that year, I had become
friendly with entrepreneur Dick
Smith, whose rapidly growing retail
electronics firm had become the magazine’s largest advertiser. Dick was just
about to move his firm’s headquarters
and warehouse to a brand new facility in North Ryde, and in July 1979,
he sent me a letter inviting me to join
his firm as Technical Manager/Director (a fancy name for ‘in-house technical boffin’).
He made me a very generous offer of
around twice the salary I was getting
at EA, so I was very happy to accept.
I resigned from EA and joined Dick
Smith Electronics in November 1979.
Although it involved a 55-minute
drive to North Ryde each weekday, and
the same time to drive home, I enjoyed
working at DSE. Dick had assembled a
dynamic team of employees, including General Manager Ike Bain, Marketing Manager Gary Johnston, Service Manager Gary Cratt (founder and
director of Av-Comm) and many other
good people.
Dick Smith himself was a ‘human
dynamo’ – working very hard and
encouraging everyone else to do so. He
was also very generous in sharing his
enthusiasm and enjoyment with us all.
Part of my job at DSE was getting
samples of products from overseas
that were good potential products to
sell in Australia, then testing them to
see if they really were suitable. In the
case of minicomputer products like the
Exidy Sorcerer, System 80 and VZ-200,
once they were ordered, I usually set
about preparing readable user and servicing manuals.
I also wrote several user manuals
for PC applications software: a word
processor, a stock control system, a
simple invoicing system and others.
In 1982, I was involved in writing
and publishing the book “Dick Smith’s
Fun Way into Computers”, in collaboration with external writer Sue Robinson. Over 30,000 of these were sold.
I also designed what became the first
300-baud direct coupled data modem
to be approved by Telecom for private
sale (up until then, only acoustically-
coupled modems had been approved).
Over 3000 of these low-cost ‘Dataphone’ modems were sold.
It was hard work for the first three
years, but very satisfying and rewarding. However, things started to change
siliconchip.com.au
when Dick Smith sold a 50% share of
the business to retailing giant Woolworths. At first, the changes were not
dramatic because Dick had to stay at
the helm for a year, to ensure that the
profits continued to rise.
When that did happen, Woolworths
bought the remaining half of the business and Dick departed. His deputy Ike
Bain took the reins, but Ike didn’t have
the same energy or talents as Dick.
At almost the same time, Marketing Manager Gary Johnston resigned
and left, to put into practice all of the
knowledge and skills he had learned
from Dick. He bought the almost
defunct electronics retailer John Carr
and Sons and soon resurrected it as
Jaycar Electronics. And with Gary at
the helm, it quickly grew into the very
successful and profitable electronics
chain it is today.
When Gary passed away in March
2021, the Jaycar Group operated over
180 stores throughout Australia and
New Zealand and also had quite a few
‘agencies’ selling their products.
After Gary and Dick left DSE, I was
foolish enough to take on Gary’s position as Marketing Manager. I soon
found that I couldn’t cope with the
pressure it involved.
At that time, DSE had its own
in-house marketing and advertising
production departments. There was
not only a staff of 23 people to manage (including Ross Tester, who later
moved to Silicon Chip), but advertising to plan and produce each week.
There was also a huge annual catalogue to plan and produce.
It soon became clear to me that I
had none of the talents of Dick Smith
or Gary Johnston, as I ‘wilted’ under
the strain and decided that I needed
to depart.
Above: the Dataphone
is a direct connection
telephone modem. It
was sold by Dick Smith
Electronics in the mid
1980s for $169 each.
Right: Dick Smith
Electronics also sold
imported minicomputers
such as the VZ-200
produced by VTech Laser.
Jim Rowe would normally
go about testing the
products and producing
user & servicing manuals.
Moving to Federal Publishing
In late 1984, quite by chance, I met
Leigh Emery, who was at the time
General Manager of a company called
Federal Publishing. It was owned by
siliconchip.com.au
The February 1985 editorial of ETI was written by Jim Rowe, as the previous
Managing Editor, Collyn Rivers, had recently departed.
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2023 49
a trio of companies: Eastern Suburbs
Newspapers (owned by the Hannan
family), Consolidated Press (owned by
the Packer family) and Fairfax/SMH.
Among various other magazines,
Federal had acquired EA’s chief competitor, Electronics Today International (ETI), its sister magazine Your
Computer and Sonics, a magazine for
the pop music and recording industry.
When Leigh realised that I was out of
my depth at DSE, he asked me to think
about joining Federal as managing editor of those three technical magazines.
The Managing Editor of ETI, Collyn
Rivers, had departed, and they were
already having problems with the new
Editor of ETI, Roger Harrison.
Rather foolishly (with the benefit
of hindsight), I decided to take up his
offer and began working at Federal/
ESN in April 1984, at their facility in
Rosebery.
I soon realised that things would
not be easy: I would not be working
for the very reasonable Leigh Emery,
because shortly before I arrived, he
was fired following a disagreement
with Michael Hannan, the Managing
Director. Instead, I would be answering to a pair of accountants.
It was all pretty much downhill
from there, although things did look
up when Geoff Baggett joined Federal
as the new General Manager.
While I was there, though, two quite
significant things happened. One was
that both Fairfax and Consolidated
Press sold their shares in Federal to
the Hannans, so Federal became a
wholly-owned subsidiary of Eastern
Suburbs Newspapers.
The other thing was that Fairfax
sold Electronics Australia to Federal
Publishing. I think this was because
Neville Williams had retired, and
Fairfax management had difficulty
dealing with the Editor who had
taken my place at the magazine: Leo
Simpson.
I was given the responsibility of
moving my old magazine and its staff
to the Federal Publishing campus in
Joynton Avenue, Rosebery, and then
managing it and the other three technical magazines.
I found it easy to get on with Leo
and the other EA staff members, with
whom I was already familiar, but
it wasn’t so easy dealing with the
problems concerning the other three
magazines. In fact, the situation soon
became just as fraught as the one I
50
Silicon Chip
had left at DSE. By October 1985, I
was fired/asked to resign from Federal Publishing, which was a relief
because the situation had become so
difficult.
And on to MicroBee
After spending about a month unemployed at home, licking my wounds
and doing some much-postponed jobs
around the house, I was invited to join
the home-grown Australian personal
computer company MicroBee Systems, by its Chairman and Managing
Director, Owen Hill.
The company had just been floated
on the stock exchange, and Owen
wanted me to join as Publishing Manager to look after the writing, printing
and publication of their hardware and
software manuals. He even flew me up
to their bustling West Gosford factory
to show me around and convince me
that the offer was genuine.
Since I was currently without a
job and we had a large mortgage and
a family to feed, I took the job at
MicroBee. But things began to deteriorate not long after I started work at
the MicroBee office and warehouse
complex in North Ryde (just down the
road from DSE).
The Marketing Manager departed
after a disagreement with Owen Hill,
and as a result, I became Communications Manager – responsible for marketing and advertising as well as publishing manuals.
Soon after that, the company began
having serious problems, especially in
developing the new computer models necessary to ensure its future success. This seemed to be at least partly
due to Owen Hill frequently revising
the specifications for the new models, forcing the design people to ‘go
back to the drawing board’ over and
over again.
In the meantime, the marketing people and I were having a harder and
harder battle to achieve sales of the
somewhat dated computer models the
factory was still producing. Gradually,
staff numbers had to be reduced to
lower overheads, and the company’s
link with its advertising agency had to
be terminated. So I had to write, lay out
and book the company’s ads myself.
The North Ryde warehouse and
office also had to be closed, and the
remaining staff and myself were
moved to the rear of MicroBee’s store
in Waitara. But things continued to
get worse, and before long, the board
brought in a ‘company doctor’ (Mr
Ron Bunt) to try and save the company
from oblivion.
When I had my interview with Mr
Bunt, he told me that the company was
probably “doomed” and suggested that
I look elsewhere. So I took his advice
and did so.
Luckily, a colleague from the early
days at EA, Dick Levine (who had been
Editor of the short-lived EA offshoot
Modern World), was by then Editor
of the electronics trade publication
Electronics News. It was part of the
IPC Business Press stable. When I told
Dick I needed to jump from the sinking
MicroBee ship, he offered me a job as
a technical journalist for his magazine.
It didn’t pay nearly as much as my
jobs at DSE, Federal Publishing, or
even MicroBee, but it would allow
us to eat and pay the mortgage – just!
It was quite pleasant working with
Dick Levine and his crew on Electronics News, and I was able to ‘lick my
wounds’ once again and more or less
recover my self-confidence after the
MicroBee ordeal.
However, that didn’t last very long
because there had apparently been a
series of confrontations at Federal Publishing between MD Michael Hannan,
The MicroBee
‘Computer-in-a-book’
system was one of the
products developed
by MicroBee in
the 1980s. Source:
https://w.wiki/6cue
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
his bullying General Manager Bernie
McGeorge and Leo Simpson – who had
been promoted to my old position after
my departure.
Leo had then departed with some
acrimony to plan the startup of Silicon Chip, and many of the remaining
staff of EA were planning to join him
when it began publication.
As a result, I was approached first
by the General Manager of FPC, Geoff
Baggett, then by his very amiable personal assistant Cassie Bailey, both of
whom tried to talk me into returning
to Federal to save EA from extinction.
Leo had told them, as he departed,
that I was probably the one person
who could do this, although he didn’t
think they would be able to convince
me to return after my previous very
unhappy time there.
Leo was right – I didn’t want to
return, and told them so, despite the
financial strain we were experiencing
trying to live on my modest earnings
at Electronics News. However, after a
week or two, I received a phone call
from MD Michael Hannan himself,
asking if he might call into our home
in Arncliffe that night, to try to talk
me into returning.
I warned him that I was unlikely to
be convinced, but he was free to try if
he wished. He did visit at about 7pm,
and we had a ‘full and frank’ discussion for about three hours. I found out
later that he had not been home for his
evening meal. The result was that we
finally agreed I would go back and try
my best to keep EA going.
Returning to Federal
Publishing
Around the middle of June 1987, I
returned to ESN/Federal Publishing,
then located at Bourke Road, Alexandria, next to the large ESN printing
works. I then began rebuilding EA –
finding new staff and working with
them for long hours to keep EA coming out every month and hopefully
to increase its reader appeal as well.
We must have been reasonably successful because we managed to keep
EA profitable for the next 12 years or
so, despite several major challenges.
One of these was a disastrous fire
in mid-1988 that destroyed half of
the Federal Publishing building and
caused a lot of water and smoke damage to the EA offices and lab. We had
to keep working while they rebuilt
everything.
siliconchip.com.au
But the main and ongoing challenge
was the very strong competition from
Silicon Chip, which Leo Simpson had
started publishing in November 1987
with most of the former EA staff.
By the middle of 1999, the situation
had become more difficult. Advertising revenue was falling along with
drooping readership, despite our best
efforts. As I had just turned 60, Federal
management decided I should ‘retire’
from full-time work on the magazine
and be replaced by one of the younger
staff members.
So Graham Cattley inherited the role
of Editor, but I kept writing and working for EA as a ‘Contributing Editor’.
This situation continued for the next
year or so, with muggins still doing
almost as much work as before but
doing it from home. However, with
me ‘out of the loop’, the magazine was
redesigned to supposedly make it more
appealing to a broader and less technical readership.
Unfortunately, this revamp didn’t
work, and the magazine closed down
in early 2001, after a run of around 62
years as a monthly publication. So I
was out of a job once more, along with
Graham Cattley, Technical Editor Rob
Evans and others.
Luckily for me, I was able to keep
earning a modest living by working for
Gary Johnston’s firm, Jaycar Electronics – mainly writing ‘how-to’ technical booklets.
Before long, Leo Simpson asked
me to draw circuit schematics and
other diagrams for Silicon Chip. As
time passed, I was also able to design
electronic projects, write them up and
have them published in Silicon Chip.
I have continued drawing diagrams,
Jim Rowe pictured at his desk at
Federal Publishing in late 1989, when
Electronics Australia had moved into
a new building after the disastrous
fire in 1988. You can see the employee
car park under construction through
the window.
but my article contributions for the
magazine have transitioned mainly
to reviews and technology feature
articles.
This ‘working from home’ arrangement has worked well for around 21
years and will hopefully let me keep
earning a living for the next year or
two. Thanks to the internet, there’s no
need to commute to the Silicon Chip
office at Brookvale, as everything can
be moved back and forth via emails
and FTP.
So there’s much less stress than
before, and as a bonus, I get to have
morning coffee, lunch and afternoon
tea almost every day with my dear
life partner Laraine. What more could
SC
you ask?
The “Low Cost 1GHz Frequency Counter” project was published in the April
1993 issue of Electronics Australia. It was developed by Jim Rowe and was
meant as the ‘big brother’ to EA’s 50MHz Frequency Counter.
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2023 51
Project by Charles Kosina
This design measures low-frequency signals accurately
and quickly. A traditional frequency counter must sample
over a long period to get an accurate result. This one
instead measures the average period and calculates the
inverse, so it only needs to monitor a few pulses to get a
precise reading. It’s useful up to about 10MHz.
Reciprocal
Frequency Counter
bought a frequency counter
Iaccuracy
over 30 years ago, but its
is very poor by today’s stan-
the frequency is 10,000,000 ÷ 199,900
= 50.025Hz.
That’s a great improvement in resdards, being out by as much as 50Hz olution, but highly dependent on the
at 10MHz. I replaced its not-very- accuracy of the hardware in measuraccurate clock module with a 10MHz ing precisely one cycle. Also, as the
TCXO, and I can now rely on it to be signal frequency increases, the resowithin 1Hz at 10MHz. By adjusting lution and accuracy decrease.
the TCXO frequency to match that
One good thing about this scheme
of my GPS-disciplined 10MHz fre- is that the exact measurement time is
quency standard, I can be assured of not critical, as the frequency calculasuch accuracy.
tion is ratiometric. This means that we
But what happens when I want to should get reasonably accurate results
measure low frequencies? For exam- as long as we have a clock source with
ple, a 50Hz signal. With a gate time of an accurate frequency and synchronise
one second, it will most likely show a the measurement period to the rising
reading of 50, even if it is not exactly edges of the input signal pulse train.
that. It might flip to 49 or 51, but the
What do we need to measure with
resolution is only 1Hz.
such precision? Mains frequency was
To improve that, we could have a the first thing I tried. I connected the
gate time of 10 seconds and a reso- output of a 6V AC mains transformer
lution of 0.1Hz. For a 10mHz resolu- to an RC network to reduce the volttion, a 100-second gate time would be age and filter out noise.
required, which is quite ridiculous.
The frequency did vary slightly
A better way to measure low fre- from reading to reading, and the largquencies is to measure the period. est variation was about 30mHz. This is
With the same example of 50Hz, using within the required Australian Energy
a 10MHz clock, it would accumulate Market Operator (AEMO) specification
200,000 pulses in one 20ms period. If of 49.85-50.15Hz. The frequency varithe number of pulses measured were ation is caused by constantly changing
actually 199,900, that would mean that load conditions on the network.
Also, musical instruments need to
be tuned to very precise frequencies. In
the equal-tempered scale, C4 (middle
C) should be 261.63Hz. Concert pitch
A4 must be 440.00Hz. All other notes
require the same precision, to two decimal places, and a trained ear can pick
the slightest differences in pitch. Such
frequencies could be measured accurately and quickly using a microphone
amplifier and this device.
Functional description
► Operating frequency range: 10mHz-10MHz (maximum ~13.5MHz)
► Input sensitivity: 100mV peak-to-peak (~35mV RMS for a sinewave)
► Accuracy: typical error <0.001Hz up to 9.999MHz after calibration
► Sampling time: 0.1s, 1s or 5s
► Reference oscillator: temperature-compensated crystal oscillator (TCXO)
► Power: three AA cells for about 24 hours of battery life
Refer to the timing diagram, Fig.1,
which is not to scale. The input signal
is fed into the clock input of a D-type
flip flop (74HC74). While the D input
(GATE TIME) remains low, the Q output remains low, and the counters
are inhibited. We start the counting
period by applying a logic one (high
level) to the D input. On the next rising edge of the input signal, the Q output (COUNTEN) will go high after the
short propagation delay.
Two NAND gates are turned on as
a result. The reference clock (REF
COUNT) is then applied to 32-bit
counter IC5, and the input signal,
INPUT COUNT, is applied to the other
32-bit counter, IC8.
After one second, the D input of the
74HC74 is taken low. The Q output
remains high until the next positive
edge of the input signal, when it will
go low. This stops the accumulation
of counts in both the 32-bit counters.
Importantly, we have an exact input
count as the period is synchronised
with the rising edges of the input signal.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Features and Specifications
52
Silicon Chip
Fig.1: when counting starts and stops is synchronised to the input signal.
GATE TIME indicates roughly when counting should occur. However, the
synchronised COUNTEN signal actually starts and stops counting (of INPUT
COUNT and REF COUNT). The two count values are then divided to get a
ratio and thus determine the actual input signal period.
The reference counter is not synchronised the same way, so the count
could be out by one. With a 10MHz
reference oscillator, this results in an
error of one part in 107. But, with a
30MHz reference, it reduces to 0.33
parts in 107, which is insignificant.
We now have three parameters. The
reference clock is a TCXO and so it is
very accurate. IC5 will contain a number accumulated over the (approximate) one-second period, and this
is the Reference Count, which will
be near the Reference Oscillator frequency. The other counter, IC8, has
the Input Count. The frequency is then
calculated from the equation:
f = Input Count × Ref Oscillator
÷ Reference Count
prevent overload. The output of the
second op amp (IC7b) is squared up
by a 74HC14 schmitt trigger inverter
(IC3a). Its output feeds into the clock
input of 74HC74 flip-flop IC2a that
produces the COUNTEN flag at its Q1
output, as well as a 74HC10 NAND gate
(IC1c) producing the COUNT signal.
I am using two 74HC10 three-input
NAND gates with two of their inputs
tied together instead of the two-input
74HC00 purely because of what I had
in stock. I only need two of these gates,
so using a 74HC00 with four gates
wouldn’t be more helpful.
The COUNT signal goes to both
clock inputs of a 74LV8154 32-bit
counter, IC8. A second such counter,
IC5, is driven by the TCXO output, also
gated by the COUNTEN signal, thanks
to NAND gate IC1a, as described earlier.
The microcontroller can clear both
counters using the CCLR signal before
initiating a count. That same signal
also resets flip-flop IC2a, de-asserting
the COUNTEN signal. Once counting
is finished, the microcontroller can
read the values from both 32-bit counters using an 8-bit data bus (CNTR07), selecting one byte from one 32-bit
counter at a time (for a total of eight).
Which byte is read out depends
on the states of the SIG COUNT and
30MHZ_COUNT lines, which select
one counter, and the SEL0/SEL1
bits, which select which byte of that
counter is on the 8-bit bus, controlled
by both halves of the 74HC139 dual
2-to-4 line decoder, IC4.
The processor used is an Arduino
Nano microcontroller module with
an onboard ATmega328 microcontroller. These are available from multiple
sources and are cheaper than buying
the separate individual components,
plus it removes some of the hard work
in assembly.
The display is the same 0.96-inch
monochrome graphical OLED I have
used in several previous designs.
The Nano updates its display over a
Circuit description
Fig.2 shows the full circuit of the
Counter.
The input signal from CON2, a BNC
or SMA connector, is amplified by
the Analog Devices ADA4891-2 dual
op amp, IC7. With the values shown,
the gain is about 32, but that could
be increased by changing a couple of
resistors. A minimum input signal of
50-100mV peak to peak is needed.
I chose that op amp as it has a high
input impedance, a gain bandwidth
(GBW) of 220MHz and a respectable
slew rate of 170V/µs. It is also readily available from multiple suppliers
at a modest price. The gain is applied
in two stages of about five times each,
to keep the overall bandwidth high.
Inverse parallel diodes D2 & D3 limit
the input level to the first op amp &
siliconchip.com.au
The Counter is batterypowered, making it
convenient to use.
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July 2023 53
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siliconchip.com.au
two-wire I2C serial interface with two
4.7kW pull-up resistors as required by
the I2C standard.
Switch S2 provides three sample
time options: 0.1s, 1s or 5s. One second is adequate for most measurements. The five-second option may
give marginally better resolution and
accuracy. The 0.1 second gives a fast
approximate reading.
The microcontroller reads the position of centre-off switch S2 using its
analog-to-digital converter to measure the voltage at pin 11 (ADC7). The
switch either presents 0V, half-supply
(2.5V) or close to full supply (5V).
The power supply for basically all
the chips in the design is a regulated
5V from boost regulator REG6. It produces this 5V from the 3-4.5V generated by three series AA cells, and its
input is switched on/off by switch S1.
CON3 and three more of the inverters in IC3 provide a serial debug interface. Unless you plan to modify the
code, it isn't that useful, so CON3 and
D4 can usually be left off the board.
Software calculations
The formula above certainly is
simple, with just one multiplication
and one division, but the numbers
involved are large. We need to multiply before dividing so that we don’t
lose accuracy, meaning we need to
calculate an intermediate value that
can be as high as 3,000,000,000,000
(three trillion; with a 10MHz input
and 30MHz oscillator).
That is way beyond 32-bit integer
arithmetic. I use the BASCOM compiler, which can perform double-
precision floating-point calculations
using 64 bits. That’s enough to store
numbers that large without any accuracy loss. For an 8-bit processor running at 16MHz, the above calculation
takes 0.4ms, which is quite impressive
for such an inexpensive chip.
The oscillator
Fig.2: the entire Frequency Counter circuit. Signal conditioning is at upper
left; the counters are left of centre, the power supply is at lower left and the
microcontroller and display are on the right. The micro decides when to start
and stop counting and when to reset the counters. It is responsible for reading
the counter values, computing the frequency and displaying it on the OLED
screen.
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TCXOs are readily available from
AliExpress for about $16. I tried four
different frequencies: 10MHz, 25MHz,
30MHz and 40MHz. The only change
needed in the BASCOM source code
was the substitution of one number.
The higher frequencies give the
advantage of slightly better resolution
and accuracy. 40MHz is the maximum
that can be used with the 74LV8154
counters, but it appears to be pushing
the limit, as the accuracy seemed to
July 2023 55
Table 1 – readings from high-precision source without calibration
Division ratio Input signal
Table 2 – high-frequency measurements
Measurement
Error
610.352Hz
1mHz
1MHz 999,999.990Hz
÷8192 1,220.703125Hz
1220.703Hz
<1mHz
2MHz 1,999,999.870Hz 130mHz
÷4096 2,441.40625Hz
2441.406Hz
<1mHz
5MHz 4,999,999.670Hz 330mHz
÷1024 9,765.625Hz
÷16384 610.3515625Hz
Input frequency Measurement
Error
10mHz
9765.625Hz
<1mHz
8MHz 7,999,999.530Hz 470mHz
÷512 19,531.25Hz
19,531.249Hz
1mHz
10MHz 9,999,999.330Hz 670mHz
÷256 39,062.5Hz
39,062.500Hz
<1mHz
÷128 78,125.0Hz
78,124.998Hz
2mHz
÷64 156,250.0Hz
156,249.995Hz
2mHz
÷32 312,500.0Hz
312,499.990Hz
10mHz
÷16 625,000.0Hz
624,999.980Hz
20mHz
drop off. So 30MHz is the best option.
It would be nice to have the frequency readout in one row of large
digits. But in keeping with the style of
my previous designs, I have used the
same small OLED to show four lines
of eight characters per line. That is not
enough to display the frequency on
one line, so it is split into two lines.
The top line shows “FREQ” while
the second line display up to 9,999,999
(Hz). The third line shows the remainder in mHz, from 0 to 999, while the
final line displays the battery voltage.
Accuracy
The primary factor that affects accuracy is how close the TCXO is to its
stated frequency. The second factor is
the precision of the mathematical calculations, but with the use of 64-bit
floating point arithmetic, any errors
are minimal.
SC6742 kit ($60 + postage)
This kit includes everything in the parts list
except the case, TCXO and AA cells.
I used my 10MHz GPS-disciplined
oscillator as an input to a 14-bit
counter (74HC4060) and fed ten different divided frequencies into the
Reciprocal Frequency Counter. Table
1 shows the results with the 30MHz
TCXO straight out of the box with no
adjustment.
I then tuned the 25MHz TCXO to
within less than 1Hz, and the errors
were 1mHz or less for all of the frequencies shown in Table 1.
The TCXOs I bought from Ali
Express suppliers have been very close
to the stated frequency, but it is possible to adjust them by peeling the label
off the TCXO, which gives access to a
trim capacitor. However, this is not for
the faint-hearted, as it is an extremely
fine adjustment, and unless you have
the equipment and patience, I don’t
recommend it.
You need a dual-trace oscilloscope
with one channel connected and
locked to a GPS-disciplined 10MHz
oscillator and the other to the TCXO
output. The latter will drift left or right,
and the trimmer should be adjusted
for minimum drift. If it takes five seconds to drift one cycle, that’s an error
of 0.2Hz (1Hz ÷ 5).
Frequency limits
The maximum frequency of this
counter is partially limited by the op
amp used in the input amplifier. The
ADA4891 has a gain bandwidth (GBW)
of 220MHz and a slew rate of 170V/µs
(it was also chosen for its high input
impedance and GBW). This limits the
maximum usable frequency to about
15MHz; however, readings above
10MHz tend to become rather erratic.
I used my calibrated AD9851 signal
generator to check frequencies above
1MHz; the results are shown in Table 2.
Fig.3: most parts are SMDs that mount on the top side of the board, but there are a handful of through-hole parts plus
a few components on the back, notably the TCXO and Arduino Nano module. L1 can be either a through-hole type on
the front or a 4 × 4mm SMD inductor on the back. Watch the polarity of all the ICs, the regulator and the diodes.
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siliconchip.com.au
The higher error rates above 1MHz
seem to be due to the TCXO being
slightly off its nominal 30MHz frequency.
The lower end of the frequency
limit is determined by the input components (10μF/1MW) which gives a
-3dB point of 16mHz. Therefore, the
practical lower limit is about 10mHz.
Measuring a 0.1Hz signal would take
around 10-20 seconds, but that is the
nature of low-frequency signals.
Construction
The assembled PCB is designed
to fit into the Altronics H0324 plastic enclosure with a clear lid, so we
don't need to cut a hole for the display.
Before mounting any components on
the PCB, use it as a template to drill
holes into the clear lid. The PCB just
fits in the front detent. Attach it with
sticky tape and drill the four corner
mounting holes with a 3mm drill. Use
a 1.5-2.0mm drill for the two switch
centre holes.
Remove the PCB, drill out the switch
holes to 6mm and countersink the
mounting holes for M3 countersunk
head screws (in this case, 6mm long).
The triple AA battery holder should
be attached to holes in the bottom of
the enclosure using self-tapping countersunk head screws of around 3mm
in diameter (4G in the old scheme).
Next, move on to building up the
PCB, which is coded CSE230101C
and measures 76 × 63.5mm. During
construction, refer to the PCB overlay
diagram, Fig.3. Most of the components on it are surface-mount devices
(SMDs). The two 32-bit counters, IC5
and IC8, come in relatively fine-pitch
20-pin TSSOP packages, so solder
them first.
The first and most important job
is to identify pin 1 and ensure it is
positioned correctly; you don’t want
to finish soldering an IC to realise it’s
around the wrong way! There should
be a dot, or similar marking, in the pin
1 corner but you might need a magnifier to see it.
Working one at a time, carefully
position the chip on the pads and solder opposite corners without worrying about shorting pins. You need to
ensure the pins are accurately aligned
over the pads on both sides, though,
so tack one corner first and only solder the other once the alignment looks
good under a magnifier.
Next, spread flux down both sides
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Parts List – Reciprocal Frequency Counter
1 125 × 85 × 55mm IP65 sealed ABS enclosure [Altronics H0324]
1 3 × AA battery holder (BAT1)
3 AA cells
1 double-sided PCB coded CSE230101C, 76 × 63.5mm
1 double-sided PCB coded CSE230102, 1mm thick with black solder mask,
76.5 × 63.5mm (front panel)
1 Arduino Nano module (MOD1)
2 15-pin headers (for MOD1)
2 15-pin low-profile female header strips (to plug MOD1 into)
1 0.96-inch 128×64 pixel I2C OLED screen module (MOD2) [SC6176]
1 10μH axial RF inductor OR 4 × 4mm SMD inductor (L1)
[eg, NRS4018T100MDGJ]
1 SPDT miniature solder-lug on/on (latching) toggle switch (S1)
1 SPDT miniature solder-lug on/off/on (latching centre-off) toggle switch (S2)
1 2-pin polarised header and matching plug (CON1)
1 SMA edge connector socket (CON2)
1 3-pin polarised header (CON3 for debugging; optional)
1 4-pin female header (for MOD2)
4 M3 × 6mm panhead machine screws
4 M3 × 6mm countersunk head machine screws
4 M3-tapped 12mm spacers
4 M3 flat washers
2 8mm-long untapped spacers (minimum 2mm inner diameter)
2 M2 × 16mm machine screws and nuts
2 3mm/4G x 6mm countersunk head self-tapping screws (for battery holder)
Semiconductors
1 74HC10 triple 3-input NAND gate, SOIC-14 (IC1)
1 74HC74 dual D-type flip-flop, SOIC-14 (IC2)
1 74HC14 hex schmitt trigger inverter, SOIC-14 (IC3)
1 74HC139 dual 2-to-4 line decoder, SOIC-16 (IC4)
2 SN74LV8154PW 32-bit counters, TSSOP-20 (IC5, IC8)
1 ADA4891-2ARZ dual high-bandwidth op amp, SOIC-8 (IC7)
1 MCP1661T-E/OT or MP1542DK-LF boost regulator, SOT-23-5 (REG6)
1 4-pin through-hole 30MHz TCXO, 20×13mm (OSC1)
[eg, www.aliexpress.com/item/32789207591.html]
1 MBR0540 40V 500mA schottky diode, SOD-123 (D1)
3 MMDL770T1G 75V 200mA signal diodes, SOD-323 (D2-D4)
Capacitors (all SMD M2012/0805 size)
7 10μF 16V X7R
7 100nF 50V X7R
Resistors (all SMD M2012/0805 size, 1%)
4 1MW
1 390kW
2 220kW
1 150kW
2 22kW
3 12kW
4 4.7kW
1 1kW
and slowly drag the soldering iron tip
along the pins. You might finish up
with a blob of solder on the last couple of pins, so use a bit of extra flux
paste and some solder braid (wick) to
remove it. Use a loupe or similar to
check that all the pins have been soldered properly and that there are no
shorts between them. If there are, break
out the flux and wick again.
It helps to clean off the flux residue
using an appropriate solvent and then
do a final inspection before moving on
because the residue can hide mistakes.
With those nicely soldered, use a
similar technique to solder the remaining SMD ICs, which have larger lead
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pitches, so they should be easier. Don’t
get IC1, IC2 & IC3 mixed up; they all
come in 14-pin SOIC/SOP packages.
Regulator REG6 has three pins on
one side and two on the other, so its
correct orientation should be obvious.
Start by tacking one of the two pins
on one side as they have better separation. Use a similar technique as for
the ICs, noting that a single pass with
solder wick should clear any bridges
from the three-pin side.
Move onto the four diodes, noting
that the different types come in different style packages, all rectangular
prisms but with D2-D4 being smaller
(there are various compatible types). In
July 2023 57
each case, ensure the cathode stripe is
facing towards the nearest “K” marking on the PCB (cathode is “Kathode”
in German).
After that, solder the SMD passives
(capacitors & resistors) similarly. The
resistors will be marked with codes
indicating their values, while the
capacitors will likely be unmarked,
so don’t mix them up once they are
out of their packages. Still, the 10µF
caps will probably be thicker than the
100nF types.
Moving onto inductor L1, there are
two options. A moulded 10µH axial
inductor may be used on the front side
of the board, but a better choice is a
4 × 4mm SMD inductor on the other
side of the board. The SMD option
gives slightly higher boost converter
efficiency and thus marginally longer
battery life.
With most of the SMDs in place,
mount the through-hole parts. The
OLED plugs into a 4-pin socket strip
and is attached by two M2 × 15mm
screws and untapped spacers. Carefully slide off the plastic spreader on
the pins of the OLED header to reduce
its height, then cut 3mm off the pins
using side cutters.
The OLEDs come in two slightly
different sizes, and some are slightly
shorter. If necessary, attach it using the
holes on either side of the connector
rather than the bottom pair.
The Arduino Nano mounts on the
back of the board and plugs into socket
strips. Don’t solder it in directly, as you
then can’t get at the OLED screw holes!
It’s important to use low-profile pin
sockets; otherwise, there is not enough
room for the battery underneath.
Fit the other components on the
reverse side next, ie, the connectors,
TCXO and additional 100nF capacitor. The input connector is an edgemounted SMA type. Ensure the TCXO
is mounted with the correct orientation, having its pointy corner (indicating pin 1) towards the top of the board.
The 3-pin header is only needed if you
want to use the debugging interface.
While the switches have solder
lugs, they are mounted on the PCB
like through-hole components. Ensure
they are perpendicular to the board
surface and fully pushed down before
soldering them. S2, the centre-off type,
goes on the right side (from the front).
After cleaning the board, inspect it
for missing or badly-formed joins and
shorts between pins. You can then
move on to programming the microcontroller.
Microcontroller programming
While we are using an Arduino Nano
module with an onboard ATmega328
chip, we are not programming it with
the Arduino IDE. The software is written in BASCOM and compiled into a
HEX file. You can load that HEX file
with an AVR ISP programmer, if you
have one, via the 6-pin header on the
Nano, but there is another method that
doesn’t require the programmer.
If you use the six-pin header for programming, there is a conflict with the
I/O pins on the board, so it is necessary to unplug the Nano and connect
it via the USB cable for power before
flashing the chip. No fuses need to
be changed; the defaults are fine, so
it's ready once you’ve uploaded the
HEX file.
Alternatively, plug the Nano into
your computer using a USB cable.
The Nano is mounted
via sockets, so the
screw holes under
it can be accessed,
although in this case
they are not used. A
yellow sticker covers
the TCXO calibration
hole.
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Then install and load a program like
AVRDUDESS for Windows. You can
use the AVRDUDE command-line program in Linux or macOS.
Set the programmer to Arduino,
select the Nano’s USB serial port,
the baud rate to 115,200 or 57,600
(depending on your Nano) and click
“Detect”. If it doesn’t find the chip,
adjust the settings and try again. Once
it does, go to the Flash window, open
the HEX file for this project (available for download from the Silicon
Chip website) and click the program
button.
Final assembly
Plug the Nano back into the PCB,
and it can then be attached to the front
panel (coded CSE230102) using 12mm
spacers and M3 screws. Add a washer
between the spacer and the front panel
to increase the distance slightly. The
front panel is another PCB, 1mm thick,
with a black solder mask and white
printing. It is held in place by the two
switch nuts. Using a PCB here saves
the trouble of printing out a label and
making the cutouts.
Power is from three AA cells; this
is stepped up to a nominal 5V by
REG6, although, with the resistor values shown, it is more like 4.4V. That’s
intentional, as it reduces the current
drain slightly.
As mentioned earlier, attach the battery holder to the case using screws,
as the battery can be pretty heavy, and
we don’t want it coming loose.
Wire the battery up to the plug that
matches CON2, being very careful that
the battery’s negative output goes to
the ground pin closest to the corner
of the PCB. There is no reverse polarity protection on the board, so if you
get this wrong, you could smoke it!
Once you’re sure that’s right, plug it
in, switch on S1 and check that the
display comes up as expected.
The circuit will continue operating
even when the cells have discharged
to about 0.8V each. With fresh alkaline
cells, it draws 75mA. With each cell at
1.2V (3.6V total), the current drain is
100mA, increasing as the battery voltage decreases further. Rechargeable
cells (eg, Eneloop) could also be used.
If you’d prefer to use an external
power supply, use a 5V phone charger and leave out REG6, D1, L1 and the
150kW and 390kW resistors, plus short
out D1 and L1. That will apply the 5V
from CON1 directly to the circuit. SC
siliconchip.com.au
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions will be paid for at
standard rates. All submissions should include full name, address & phone number.
Object recognition with Arduino and ESP32 CAM
The website edgeimpulse.com lets
you train an AI module to recognise
images quite easily. One of its best
aspects is the way you can deploy the
results to many different operating systems, including devices like Arduino,
ESP32 CAM, ESP-Eye, Python and
Raspberry Pi, as well as most computers.
It can create an output as a C++
library that can be used almost everywhere!
For example, let’s say you need to
separate fruit & vegetables like lemons,
onions and tomatoes. You can use a
Raspberry Pi or ESP32 CAM and a few
relays or solenoids to segregate these
items into different locations. When
the computer detects a tomato, it redirects it to the appropriate basket etc.
First, you need to create a login for
edgeimpulse.com – to do that, you just
need an email address. Once logged
in, you need to create a classification
project. We then have to collect photographs of these items (lemons, onions,
tomatoes etc) in groups, from several
angles, and the website will build the
project based on those.
If you don’t already have such
images but have some of the items,
you can take the photos directly
using a smartphone. After logging
onto the website, in the top middle
siliconchip.com.au
of the screen, there should be a link
that reads “Collect new data”. Click
that, and a QR code will appear (along
with other options).
Scan the QR code with your smartphone and you will get three options:
collecting images, collecting audio
and collecting motion. In this case, we
want to collect images. Press that, follow the prompts, then you are ready
to start gathering data.
After you have collected a good
number of pictures of all three fruit &
vegetables, say around 200, you need
to divide them with an 80:20 ratio for
training & testing (the smartphone app
will automatically do that by default).
You need to add bounding boxes to
the object in question in all the images.
To avoid this repetitive task, go to the
“labelling queue” link at the top of
the page and select “Classify using
YOLOv5” from the drop-down in the
upper right-hand corner. Unselect any
unwanted objects in the list on the left,
then click “Save labels” on the right.
It will load the next image. Continue
until all have been processed.
Now click the “Create impulse”
link on the left and add the “Image”
and “Object Detection” blocks, then
click “Save Impulse”. Next, go to the
“Image” link and click “Save image”,
then “Generate features”. Once that
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has finished (it can take a while), click
the “Object detection” link on the left,
then the green “Start training” button.
Training can also take a while.
At the end of the training, check that
the “F1 score” is at least 0.85 (85%).
To improve the score, you might have
to change the model or remove some
outlier images, which can reduce the
overall score.
Now to test the model using the
20% of the images we set aside. Click
on “Model testing” on the left, then
click “Classify all”. Check the resulting F1 scores. Note that 100% accuracy is not considered good for the
model; it should be between 81%
and 90%.
Model deployment
The model can now be deployed on
various hardware, including Arduino,
ESP eye, C++, Raspberry Pi and many
more. For the Raspberry Pi, edgeimpulse has the linux-sdk-python software that lets you easily run/tweak
the installation. Download the edgeimpulse model file and run the python
file, like the following command. It is
very simple!
# python classify.py model.eim
In my case, I wanted to run it on the
ESP32 CAM. For that, I clicked the
July 2023 59
The objects in the photos need to be labelled with bounding boxes to help train the model. Here two tomatoes and an
onion have been identified by YOLOv5.
Deployment link on the left, selected
the “Arduino library” model and
pressed the “Build” button at the bottom. The Arduino sketch and the necessary library will be downloaded on
your local computer.
In Arduino IDE, install this zip file
as a new library (Sketch → Include
library → Add .zip library). Once
installed, go to File → Library and find
the latest library.
The model is set for the ESP-EYE
camera board. However, the cheapest ESP32 camera available is the
“ESP32 AI Thinker cam” or, for a little
more, the “ESP32 TTGO T plus camera” board. My sketch (available for
download from siliconchip.com.au/
Shop/6/200) suits both those boards
and camera models. You just have to
uncomment the right model, and the
sketch is all set for installation.
Due to the size of the code, the
uploading process takes a substantial
amount of time (sometimes 7-8 minutes). Therefore, have patience while
uploading the sketch.
Light is required during the identification process so the camera can capture a reasonable image of the subject.
The ESP AI Thinker cam has a superbright LED that my code switches on
for extra light. You can see how well
it works in the accompanying photo.
As well as the fruit & vegetable
example, I have included another
one that distinguishes between pens
and pencils. As provided, the fruit &
vegetable example is set up for the
TTGO T plus camera board, while the
pen/pencil example is set up for the
ESP32 CAM.
The diagram circuit shows the simple configuration I used, with a small
OLED screen to show the classification results, a battery and 3.3V regulator for the power supply and a relay
or solenoid that can be switched via
a driver transistor depending on the
object classification.
The ESP32 CAM sketch will bring
either the GPIO12 or GPIO13 output
high depending on whether it detects
a pen or a pencil, with the relay/solenoid activating only when GPIO13
goes high.
While the TTGO T-Camera Plus
ESP32-DOWDQ6 module is quite a
bit more expensive than the ESP32
CAM, it has a better camera and more
RAM.
Bera Somnath,
North Karanpura, India. ($120)
Left: the module being used to recognise a lemon with 52% confidence.
Below: edge impulse can convert trained models into code to suit a wide range of
platforms. Here you can see some of the options including Arduino and Linux.
60
Silicon Chip
Charging a battery with a load
We had an enquiry about using the
Multi-Stage Buck-Boost Battery Charger (October 2022; siliconchip.au/
Article/15510) while the battery had
a significant load. The Charger would
be powered by a car and would charge
a battery running a 12V refrigerator.
The problem is that the charger
only sees the net current flow, ie, that
current being absorbed by the battery being charged plus any current
required to supply load(s) on the battery. For most batteries, charging is terminated when the current falls below a
particular level; the load current could
be high enough to prevent that from
happening entirely, or at least delay it,
possibly causing overcharging.
A large enough load might also
cause the Battery Charger to trigger
a low battery voltage error, stopping
charging entirely.
That’s not to say it’s impossible to
charge a battery under load. But there
are too many parameters at play to
even suggest what might work. You
would have to have excellent knowledge of both the charger and the load
profile to work out safe settings that
will work under all conditions.
The solution we are proposing here
only works if the charging source (in
this case, the car alternator), battery
and load all operate at the same nominal voltage. Because of the versatility
of the Battery Charger, that may not be
the case; for example, it can handle a
12V supply charging a 24V battery or
vice versa.
Our solution is to use a relay to
switch the load to run directly from
the alternator while charging occurs.
The circuit diagram summarises the
connections.
When the accessories are switched
siliconchip.com.au
off, the relay is in the normally closed
position, and the fridge runs from the
house battery. When the car is started,
the relay is energised, and the refrigerator is fed directly from the starter
battery (which is being charged by the
alternator as the engine is running).
There might be a very brief dropout
while the relay switches over, but most
fridges should handle that without any
problems. Otherwise, add more supply bypass capacitance for the load to
cover the dropout.
Note the use of a separate circuit
from the battery; this allows the fridge
to be separately and appropriately
fused.
This arrangement is also more efficient in that the Charger is bypassed, so
losses within the Charger are avoided.
It will also reduce the duty on the
Charger, as it would otherwise have to
supply both the battery charging current and fridge load current.
This scenario is not limited to a
fridge but should work fine with any
load that can handle the supply voltage
of both the starter and house batteries.
Note that if you are using the standalone Buck-Boost LED Driver as a pure
float charger, as described in the BuckBoost Battery Charging article (October
2022; siliconchip.au/Article/15509),
you do not need to add this relay.
That is because the voltage applied
to the battery is not elevated, so there
is negligible risk of damage. However,
charging will be much slower without
it when the load is drawing current.
Therefore, we still recommend
using the relay circuit; it reduces the
load on the Buck-Boost Driver, if nothing else.
Tim Blythman,
Silicon Chip.
Australia's electronics magazine
Reducing Flexitimer
power consumption
The May 2023 issue included my
contribution regarding a simple modification of the Flexitimer to allow
a mostly on output with a short offtime sequence (“An even more flexible Flexitimer”; siliconchip.au/
Article/15786).
I sometimes feel the Flexitimer
has become my life’s work as, in the
great tradition of one thing leading to
another, I noticed that the plastic box
housing the timer was getting quite
warm, with the heat coming from the
relay. Around half a watt is dissipated
by the relay coil, and in a confined
space, that results in a noticeable temperature rise.
Adding a resistor in series with the
coil is a tried and tested option to
reduce coil power. Since there is a 0W
link between the relay coil and ground,
the circuit board layout lends itself to
another easy modification.
After some trial and error, I settled
on 560W, reducing the coil power from
500mW to 57mW. That results in a significantly cooler plastic box.
To ensure the relay latches reliably
with the reduced current flow, solder
a 470μF electrolytic capacitor across
this resistor with the negative side to
ground.
Some Flexitimer boards have DPDT
relays (the original design used an
SPDT relay). If yours has this second
spare set of contacts, connect the NC
and COM terminals of the unused
pole across the added resistor/and
capacitor. That will ensure the capacitor is fully discharged each time the
relay switches off. Unless the timer is
switching the relay rapidly, that isn’t
required.
Chris Sweet,
Carlingford, NSW ($60).
A thermal infrared camera measures hot or cold spots
compared to the surrounding area. This is extremely
useful in diagnosing hot spots in electronic circuits,
which may indicate a failing component or the need
for a heatsink. They can be pricey, but not this one, a
DIY version that’s easy to build.
Pi Pico-based
Thermal Camera
IR
thermal cameras have many
uses beyond those listed above,
such as checking for overheating
mechanical bearings or identifying
areas of heat loss in a building.
Panasonic produces the AMG8833
Infrared Array Sensor (“Grid-EYE”)
that detects IR emissions on a 64-pixel
8 × 8 array. It uses the I2C serial protocol, so it can easily interface with a
Raspberry Pi Pico running the Pico
Mite operating system.
Objects emit infrared energy in
proportion to their temperature; the
higher the temperature, the more IR
energy is emitted and the higher its
frequency. For really hot objects, the
frequency extends into the visible
wavelengths, which is why hot objects
are seen to glow. By measuring this
energy, we can get a pretty good idea
of the temperature. There are some
pitfalls, which we will mention later.
With the Grid-EYE sensor, each
pixel has a viewing angle of approximately 7.5°, so the overall sensor has
a viewing angle of 60° (7.5° × 8). Each
pixel has a tolerance of ±2.5°C when
operated within specification. We can
minimise this error by calibrating the
sensor, as described below.
Also, there can be random operating ‘noise’ of up to ±2.5°C per pixel.
To reduce this, the sensor is used in
moving-average mode, which averages
two readings when the sensor is set up
for a 10Hz frame rate or 20 readings
when for a 1Hz frame rate.
If the raw output of the Array Sensor is displayed directly on an LCD
screen, it appears very ‘blocky’. Still,
it can easily be upscaled using a
62
Silicon Chip
technique called bilinear interpolation to give the appearance of many
more data points. The PicoMite Thermal Camera can upscale by factors of
two, four or nine. These factors were
chosen as they make the best use of
the screen width.
Below the thermal image display is
a text read-out showing the maximum,
minimum and average temperatures
and the current operating mode.
As mentioned above, the Array Sensor can sample at 10 FPS (frames per
second) or 1 FPS. The former is most
suited to fast-changing subjects, while
the latter better smooths out random
noise in the sensor, giving a more stable and accurate output.
Bilinear interpolation
This involves drawing an imaginary
straight line between two data points,
then generating new data points in
between that lie on that line. It’s a simple technique that produces a much
smoother-looking result than the more
basic ‘nearest neighbour’ technique
that gives a blocky image.
More complicated interpolation schemes like trilinear, bicubic,
Lanczos or anisotropic interpolation
involve considerably more processing (arithmetic) than bilinear. In this
case, their advantages are minor; bilinear gets us most of the improvement
compared to no filtering with very little processing.
Object emissivity
The ‘fly in the ointment’ for a thermal camera is that objects vary in emissivity. An ideal IR emitter is called a
Australia's electronics magazine
by Kenneth Horton
‘black body’ with 100% electromagnetic emission/absorption.
Shiny objects like mirrors have an
emissivity closer to 0%. If you point
an IR thermometer or camera at them,
you will measure the temperature of
an object that the mirror is reflecting,
not the mirror itself.
Luckily for us, many electronic components are dark colours and will have
an emissivity of 90%+, so a thermal
camera will measure their temperature
accurately. Human skin has an emissivity of 97-99.9%, so IR thermometers also work well for measuring our
temperature.
This isn’t a fatal flaw but be aware
that the temperature measurements
of metallic objects using this IR camera could be inaccurate. It isn’t just
well-polished metal surfaces either;
even rough, oxidised aluminium
only has an emissivity of about 20%,
with polished metal surfaces usually
below 5%.
A known work-around to measuring
the temperature of shiny surfaces (eg
stainless steel pipes) is to apply some
matte painters tape, which has a better emissivity. For more information,
see: https://w.wiki/6R6E
Circuit details
As shown in Fig.1, the hardware
for the project is relatively straightforward, consisting of just three modules:
the Infrared Array Sensor, a Raspberry
Pi Pico running the PicoMite operating system (MMBasic) and a 1.8-inch
SPI TFT LCD screen with a resolution
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the Thermal Camera circuit is straightforward, with the IR sensor array (MOD1) communicating with the
Raspberry Pi Pico over an I2C bus (SDA/SCL) and the LCD screen being driven over an SPI bus (CS, SCK & MOSI). The
only other components are the pushbutton for changing modes (S1) and a 39W resistor to set the LCD backlight current.
of 128 × 160 pixels and an ST7735
controller.
The sensor array is connected to the
Pico via an I2C interface, while communications with the LCD screen are
over an SPI interface. The only passive components are a pushbutton to
change modes and a 39W resistor to
set the current at which the display
backlight operates. The following Pico
GPIO pins are used:
• GP08: LCD data/control (D/C)
• GP09: LCD chip select (CS)
• GP10: LCD SPI clock (SCK)
• GP11: LCD SPI data (MOSI)
• GP15: LCD reset (RST)
• GP18: pushbutton sensing
• GP20: AMG8833 I2C data (SDA)
• GP21: AMG8833 I2C clock (SCL)
The double-sided PCB is a carrier
for the three modules, the pushbutton
and the resistor. The display runs from
a 5V DC supply from the Pico. On the
Pico board, this is stepped down by a
regulator to 3.3V. That 3.3V runs the
RP2040 microcontroller on the Pico
and is also available off-board, where
it is used to power the AMG8833 IR
sensor array.
The Array Sensor is available from
the usual auction sites pre-mounted
on a breakout board, and you can find
the display on the same sites. There are
some suggested links in the parts list.
The prototype was powered via the
USB port on the Pi Pico, but there are
also pads on the PCB for an external 5V
power supply. This way, the Thermal
Camera can be powered by a battery.
The pushbutton is connected so that
siliconchip.com.au
it pulls the GP18 pin to GND when it
is pressed. The Pico has an internal
pull-up current enabled on that pin,
so its voltage is high when the button
is not pressed and goes low when it’s
pressed, allowing the digital input to
sense the change.
Software operation
The basic flow of the program is as
follows:
1. Initialise the PicoMite, LCD
screen and IR sensor array
2. Restore the calibration data and
last pushbutton settings
3. Load the colour spectrum from
the table
4. Enter the main loop
Read 64 pixels from the sensor
and adjust with the calibration data
b. Calculate the maximum, minimum and average temperatures
c. Convert the absolute temperatures to points on the colour
spectrum
d. Interpolate the intermediate
colour values for each row using
bilinear interpolation
e. Interpolate the intermediate
colour values for each column
using bilinear interpolation
f. Update the display
g. Check the pushbutton state
h. Delay if necessary
Repeat items a-h above indefinitely
a.
The rear of the enclosure (86 × 33.4
× 57.3mm) has a cutout for the
AMG8833 IR sensor; you can
also see a small cutout
for the Pi Pico’s USB
connector on the
lip.
July 2023 63
by Silicon Chip), they will be plated,
and nothing else needs to be done. If
you etch the board yourself, those nine
vias need to be drilled and short wire
links soldered between the top and
bottom layers in each location.
The LCD screen and switch mount
on the underside of the PCB, while the
Pi Pico and IR sensor are on the top.
For convenience, the three modules can be mounted via socket strips
rather than soldering them directly to
the PCB. You can cut them from longer
strips if you don’t have 6-pin and 8-pin
sockets. The resistor can be mounted
on either side of the board.
The switch is a two-pin or three-pin
SIL-type vertical pushbutton that solders directly to the PCB. Alternatively,
there is a provision in the 3D-printed
enclosure to mount other types of
pushbutton below the LCD screen and
The Raspberry Pi is mounted on pin headers in sockets to make it easy to replace.
wire them up to the pads on the board
using short connecting wires.
LCD screen limitations
good imagination), and the span from
Once plugged into its socket, the IR
Although the LCD screen is, in the- yellow through green to cyan seems sensor is secured to the board by two
20mm-long M2.5 machine screws and
ory, a standard item, displays from particularly compressed! Also, the
different suppliers have different char- display is extremely sensitive to the nuts with 3D-printed spacers (Fig.4)
acteristics. One display tested had the viewing angle and must be viewed between the PCB and sensor. One of
red and blue colours reversed, whilst head-on to get the full spectrum of the spacers for the IR sensor has a cutthe latest batch had random pixels at colours. Otherwise, adjacent colours out to fit around an SMD component
next to the module's mounting hole.
the bottom and right-hand side of the blend into each other.
With the IR sensor array and LCD
display. As a result, three constants are
attached to the PCB, now is also a good
defined to allow the program to be tai- Construction
The Thermal Camera is built on a time to plug the Raspberry Pi Pico into
lored to the attached display:
double-sided PCB coded 04105231 its sockets.
' Set to false for RGB displays
that measures 60 × 52.5mm. The comYou can print the custom-made
and true for BGR displays
ponents are mounted as shown in enclosure in two parts (body and lid),
Const BGR_display = False
Figs.2 & 3.
shown in Fig.5. The STL 3D printer
' Some ST7735 displays have a
There are nine vias on this board. files (available to download from
pixel alignment problem! Try = 2
If you are using a commercially- siliconchip.com.au/Shop/6/202) are
Const HRES_offset = 0
produced board (such as the one sold optimised for 0.2mm layer height,
' Some ST7735 displays have a
pixel alignment problem! Try = 1
Const VRES_offset = 0
Despite the display supposedly
having 65,536 colours, they can’t
actually show that many. Firstly,
RGB(247,251,247) is one step down
from white but looks significantly dimmer. The difference between this and
the next step down, RGB(239,247,239),
is less noticeable, as is each subsequent step.
For dimmer values, the less effect
each step has. RGB(127,127,127) is
very dim, and RGB(63,63,63) is almost
black! Another, more technical way
of saying this is that the display has a
very high gamma value.
As a result, it is difficult to get
more than about 38 distinct colours
across the spectrum (even with a
64
Silicon Chip
Figs.2 & 3: components are mounted on both sides of the board. On one side are
the Raspberry Pi Pico and IR sensor, both plugged in via header strips. The LCD
screen, pushbutton and resistor are mounted on the other side, although the
resistor can go on either side.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
0.4mm wall thickness and 100% fill.
Note that the first layer of the screw
holes is filled as it gives a more pleasing appearance to the front and back
of the case – just drill them out after
printing. The holes in the lid are countersunk under the top layer and are
best cleared with an 8-10mm drill by
hand.
The PCB assembly is held in the
case by four 25mm-long M3 machine
screws and nuts, with 3D-printed spacers between the display and the PCB
at the opposite end to the connector.
It is necessary to insert the display
into the case first, insert the machine
screws from the front of the case, place
the spacers over the screw shafts and
then plug the PCB onto the display.
Finally, secure it with the nuts.
Loading the software
It is assumed that readers are familiar with loading PicoMite software,
which was described in the article
on the PicoMite in the January 2022
issue (siliconchip.au/Article/15177).
Briefly:
1. Download the PicoMite operating
system from http://geoffg.net/picomite.
html and unzip the file.
2. To load the operating system onto
the PI Pico, plug the USB cable into
a PC while holding down the white
button.
3. The Pi Pico will appear as a USB
drive. Copy/drag the file PicoMitexx.
xx.xx.uf2 onto that drive.
4. Connect to the PicoMite’s USB
serial port using your preferred serial
terminal emulator (eg, TeraTerm or
PuTTY).
5. Once connected, enter each of
these commands in turn, but note that
many of them reset the Pi Pico, so the
USB connection is lost and will need
to be restored before entering the next:
The pushbutton is visible on the
back of the PCB at upper left. A few
different compatible types can be
obtained.
camera.bas” file into the PicoMite,
again using your preferred serial terminal emulator or MMEdit. Use the
“Autosave” or “XMODEM receive”
commands, depending upon your
preference.
8. If you’d prefer to skip most of the
above sequence, you can download the
“Thermal camera (RGB).uf2” or “Thermal camera (BGR).uf2” file from the
Silicon Chip website and upload it in
the third step above. That’s equivalent
to running all the configuration commands and loading the BASIC code.
The only difference between the two
files is the expected LCD screen configuration, so if the displayed colours
are wrong, load the other file.
Operation
The pushbutton has the following
functions:
• Short press (less than 1.5 seconds): cycles the display scaling factor through 1, 2, 4 and 9
• Long press (more than 1.5 seconds): toggles between 1 FPS and 10
FPS
Fig.4: 3D-printed spacers are used rather than off-the-shelf types since we
can make them exactly the right dimensions, and you can print them at the
same time as the case. Note the cut-out in one to clear an SMD
component near the mounting hole on the IR
sensor module.
OPTION RESET
OPTION CPUSPEED 252000
OPTION SYSTEM SPI
GP10,GP11,GP12
OPTION LCDPANEL
ST7735,RP,GP8,GP15,GP9
OPTION SYSTEM I2C GP20,GP21
6. The following two commands
are optional; the first shows you what
you have configured, while the second
lets you verify that the LCD screen is
working:
OPTION LIST
GUI TEST LCDPANEL
7. Finally, load the “Thermal
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.5: the 3D printed enclosure
base and lid. The holes do not
go all the way through because
it gives a neater result to drill
the thin panels after printing the
case than print the case with the holes.
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2023 65
Parts List – Raspberry Pi Thermal Camera
1 double-sided PCB coded 04105231, 60 × 52.5mm
1 Raspberry Pi Pico
1 3D-printed enclosure (body & lid)
4 3D-printed spacers
1 AMG8833 Grid-EYE IR sensor array breakout board module with pin order
VIN, GND, SCL, SDA, INT & ADO
[AliExpress www.aliexpress.com/item/33012193094.html]
1 1.8-inch 128×160 pixel SPI LCD TFT screen with ST7735 controller
[Tempero Systems TS-S006; eBay; AliExpress www.aliexpress.com/
item/1005003797803015.html {1.8 inch option}]
1 SPDT momentary PCB-mounting subminiature pushbutton switch (S1)
[Altronics S1493 or APEM TP32P0]
1 39W 5% ¼W axial resistor
2 20-pin headers, 2.54mm pitch
2 20-pin header sockets, 2.54mm pitch
1 8-pin header socket, 2.54mm pitch
1 6-pin header socket, 2.54mm pitch
2 M2.5 × 20mm panhead machine screws and hex nuts
4 M3 × 25mm panhead machine screws and hex nuts
4 No.2 × 6mm countersunk head self-tapping screws
• Very long press (more than 10 seconds): enters calibration mode
Note that the frame rates are sensor
refresh times, not screen refresh times.
At 10 frames per second, the screen
update time is longer than 1/10th
of a second for scale factors 4 and 9.
At scale factor 4, the display will be
updated approximately every 220 ms
and, at scale factor 9, every 700ms.
This is because the bilinear calculations take some time to complete for
higher scaling factors.
In calibration mode, the sensor
is set to 1 FPS, and 10 readings are
taken over a 10-second period. These
are then averaged, and the correction
factors for each pixel are stored in
non-volatile memory. Good results are
obtained by holding the sensor perfectly still 2-3cm from a white sheet
of paper.
If the button is pressed during calibration, calibration is abandoned, and
the correction factors are cleared. We
recommend letting the sensor stabilise
for at least one minute with power on
before performing calibration.
Software tweaks
In the software, the constant “Fahrenheit” can be set to “true” to display
temperatures in Fahrenheit rather than
centigrade/Celsius.
The constant “Minimum_span”
sets the minimum temperature span
for the display when there is little temperature variation across the
It’s critical you purchase a
module with the same output pin
layout as the one shown above.
whole display. This prevents wildly
varying colours for minimal temperature changes. Lower values make the
display more sensitive when there is
an almost uniform temperature gradient.
Speeding up the refresh rate
The latest version of the Pico
Mite firmware (“PicoMiteV5.07.06.
uf2”) allows the CPU speed to be
increased from the old maximum
speed of 252000 to 378000 with the
command:
Option CPUspeed 378000
This means that, with a scale factor of 4, the display will be updated
approximately every 165ms rather
than 220ms and, at scale factor 9, every
520ms rather than 700ms. However,
note that this is ‘overclocking’ the
RP2040 processor and it’s possible
that it won’t work on every board or
under all conditions. Still, most Pico
boards should be capable of running
SC
at this speed.
Dual-Channel Breadboard
Power Supply
Our Dual-Channel Breadboard PSU
features two independent channels each
delivering 0-14V <at> 0-1A. It runs from
7-15V DC or USB 5V DC, and plugs straight
into the power rails of a breadboard, making it
ideal for prototyping. Photo shows both the Breadboard
PSU and optional Display Adaptor (with 20x4 LCD) assembled.
Both articles in the December 2022 issue – siliconchip.au/Series/401
SC6571 ($40 + post): Breadboard PSU Complete Kit
SC6572 ($50 + post): Breadboard PSU Display Adaptor Kit
66
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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CARRIAGE UNCOUPLER
for model railways
By Les Kerr
This mechanism automatically uncouples carriages from a locomotive or other
carriages, adding realism to a model railway layout. It’s hidden under a section
of track and activated by a switch after the locomotive is driven into position.
It’s actuated by a servo motor with simple control electronics and a relatively
straightforward mechanical system that you can make.
L
ocomotives and carriages
can be coupled by simply
pushing them together, but
uncoupling them requires more work.
This device uses a special section of
track to automatically uncouple carriages, allowing you to reconfigure
your model trains in a realistic manner. You can see it in operation in the
video at siliconchip.au/link/abl8
Initially, I thought I could use a solenoid to raise a platform above the rails,
thus lifting the coupling hooks on both
the carriage and locomotive, allowing
them to be pulled apart. I found a miniature solenoid that moved through
5mm when activated. On checking
with a carriage, I found that I only
needed the solenoid to move through
2.7mm to uncouple it.
However, even with a 50% duty
cycle, the 1.1A solenoid required
600mA continuously from the power
supply, which seemed like a lot to lift a
little platform. The other problem is the
speed at which the solenoid operates.
68
Silicon Chip
It would be travelling very fast when it
hit the platform-lifting pin, raising the
platform too rapidly and making a lot of
noise when it hit its maximum height.
This made me decide instead to
use a miniature servo motor. Such a
motor would only draw a few hundred
milliamps at most, and a basic 8-pin
microcontroller could easily control
its speed and travel distance.
Initially, I thought I could couple the servo arm that came with the
servo to lift the platform raising pin,
but I found that the servo would only
have to move through a few degrees
to achieve the required 2.7mm lift. A
1ms control pulse change will make a
servo move through 90°, so we would
have to change the pulse length by just
tens of microseconds to get a change
of just a few degrees.
To control the speed of the motor,
we feed it with increments of about
1/20th of the total pulse width until the
required duration is reached. Unfortunately, these increments would only
Australia's electronics magazine
be one or maybe a few microseconds,
which is difficult to achieve reliably.
The solution was to use a cam
attached to the servo shaft, which provides the 2.7mm lift when the servo
rotates through 90°. The minimum and
maximum lift values are set using two
potentiometers.
Figs.1(a) & (b) show the final
arrangement of the metalwork in both
the Platform up and down positions.
A piece of single-length Hornby OO
scale rail is attached to two L-shaped
brackets by two 10BA screws.
With the Platform down, the cam
is rotated fully anti-clockwise to its
minimum lift position. As the pins are
firmly fixed to the Platform by Loctite,
the springs and gravity pull the Platform down until it touches the sleepers, so the Platform is roughly level
with the rails.
Having three pins means that the
Platform always remains parallel to the
rail. The cam is attached to the servo
motor shaft by the 8BA screw.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: three views of the completed Uncoupler mechanism; (a) from the side in the down position, (b) in the up
position, (c) from underneath. The Platform slides on three Pins, two held in Collars supported by Springs, and one in
a Bush that the Cam acts on.
When the servo motor rotates clockwise, the cam follows, putting pressure on the centre pin with the result
that the Platform lifts and the springs
compress, as shown in the Platform
up drawing.
Servo control
The control circuit is shown in
Fig.2. To rotate the servo motor
through 90°, it is fed with continuous
siliconchip.com.au
2ms-wide pulses at about 50Hz in
the down position and 1ms pulses in
the up position. These come from the
GP0 digital output (pin 7) of microcontroller IC1.
The exact pulse widths and thus, up
and down positions, are set using trimpots VR1 & VR2. They are connected
across the 5V supply with padder
resistors to generate 2-3V (VR1) and
2.7-3.7V (VR2) at their wipers. That
Australia's electronics magazine
voltage is measured ratiometrically
(so the exact voltage of the 5V supply doesn’t matter) using IC1’s internal 10-bit analog-to-digital converter
via the AN1 (pin 6) and AN3 (pin 3)
inputs, respectively.
The 10-bit ADC produces values
from 0 to 1023 (210 − 1) for voltages
of 0-5V. The software multiplies the
value measured at AN1 by two for a
delay in microseconds, so the range is
July 2023 69
Fig.2: the control circuit is straightforward, with microcontroller IC1 generating 50Hz pulses to control the servo motor.
The up/down switch, S1, selects which of trimpots VR1 & VR2 determine the pulse width and hence target servo rotation.
The positions are usually set to vary by about 90°.
0-2.046ms with 1.023ms at the midpoint.
Similarly, the reading from pin 3 of
IC1 is multiplied by 3 for a range of
0-3.069ms for VR2, with the midpoint
giving about 1.535ms and about 2ms
at its 2/3rds position.
The 10μF capacitors from these two
pins to ground stop any supply noise or
ripple from affecting the ADC readings.
When up/down switch S1 is in the
down position, digital input GP2 (pin
5) of IC1 is low, so VR2 is used to determine the servo motor pulse lengths,
resulting in it turning anti-clockwise.
With S1 up, it changes to shorter
pulses based on VR1, causing the
motor to rotate clockwise.
The 100nF capacitor from pin 5 to
+5V protects the input from stray RF,
while the 5.6kW pull-down resistor
ensures GP2 is always high or low. The
Fig.3: like the circuit, the PCB is
pretty simple. The three + pads
are for 5V power in/out, S1 is the
switch common, SIG is the servo
motor’s control signal, and the two
0V pads are grounds. The only
polarised components that can be
inserted incorrectly are IC1 and
the three electrolytic capacitors.
70
Silicon Chip
100μF and 100nF capacitors across
the supply stabilise the supply voltage for IC1.
PCB assembly
Assembly of the control PCB, shown
in Fig.3, is straightforward. The PCB
is coded 09105231 and measures 34
× 48mm, and the assembled PCB is
shown in Photo 1.
Pin headers are used to connect the
wires to the board. Start by fitting the
header pins, the 8-pin IC socket and
the capacitors. The IC socket makes it
easier to remove the microprocessor
and re-program it later if necessary.
Take care to orientate the socket and
the electrolytic capacitors correctly.
Now add the resistors, which are
mounted vertically. Don’t fit the
PIC12F617 microprocessor yet. If you
have purchased this from the Silicon
Chip Online Shop, it will already have
the firmware loaded. If you wish to do
this yourself, the files can be downloaded from the Silicon Chip website,
but you will need a suitable programmer and socket adaptor.
Wiring it up
Using hookup wire, connect the up/
down switch, power pack and servo
as shown in Fig.4. Check that the +5V
lead of the power pack connects to the
PCB positive terminal and the 0V lead
goes to the 0V point on the PCB.
The red wire from the servo should
connect to the +5V terminal of the PCB
and the brown wire to the 0V terminal
on the PCB. Finally, the orange wire
from the servo should connect to the
servo output on the PCB (“SIG”).
Testing the electronics
Photo 1: the PCB is a single-sided
design. This photo shows it fully
assembled and wired up via singlepin headers.
Before powering it up, check that
the 100μF and 10μF capacitors are
orientated correctly and inspect the
rear of the PCB for dry joints or solder
bridges between pads or tracks. Rectify if necessary.
Next, power up the 5V supply and
connect the positive lead of a digital
voltmeter to pin 1 of the IC socket and
the negative lead to pin 8. If you get
a reading of +5V, you can proceed. If
you read -5V, either the IC socket or
the 5V supply is reversed.
Remove power and plug in the
PIC12F617 microprocessor as shown
in Fig.3, with its pin 1 end over the
socket notch. Set trimpots VR1 and
VR2 to their mid positions. If you have
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siliconchip.com.au
Fig.5: the Cam is a metal ellipse
with one side cut flat and a couple
of holes drilled. It’s made from a
cylindrical piece of aluminium
cut to 3mm thick and then ground
into this shape.
Fig.4: the wiring is straightforward, as shown here. Consider how long you need
the wires to be, especially from the control board to the servo. Most servos come
with relatively short wires, so they will probably need to be extended.
an oscilloscope, connect it between the
servo connection and ground, and set
the vertical deflection to 10V and the
timebase to 500μs.
Switch the up/down switch to up
(closed) and apply power. The servo
motor should rotate clockwise to its
maximum position, and the oscilloscope should display a positive-going
5V pulse of about 1ms width. Rotate
VR1, and you should see the servo
motor move and the 1ms pulse width
change.
Rotate VR1 back and both the servo
motor and pulse widths should return
to their original positions. Leave VR1
in its mid position.
Now change the up/down switch
to the down position, and the servo
should rotate about 90° anti-clockwise,
with the pulse width increasing to
about 2ms. This time, adjust VR2
and the pulse width and servo motor
should change position. Leave VR2 in
its mid position.
In one of my previous projects that
used the same servo motor, one user
complained that the motor continually
rotated. On investigation, we found
that you can purchase a servo that is
the same size but designed for 360°
rotation. You need to use the 180° type
in this project.
Making the mechanical parts
The next job is to make the Cam,
shown in Fig.5. Chuck a piece of
25.4mm (one inch) aluminium round
bar stock with about 5mm protruding
from the chuck. Face the end and bore
siliconchip.com.au
Photo 2: print,
cut out and glue
the Cam shape
guide onto the
metal disc as a
guide for grinding
it to the required oval shape.
Parts List – Model Railway Carriage Uncoupler
1 5V DC 1A plugpack
1 180° 9G servo motor [DF9GMS; Core Electronics SER0006]
1 Hornby R600 or R601 rail section
1 single-sided PCB coded 09105231, 48 × 34mm
2 2kW top-adjust mini trimpots (VR1, VR2)
1 PIC12F617-I/P 8-bit microcontroller
programmed with 0910523A.HEX, DIP-8 (IC1)
1 8-pin DIL IC socket (for IC1)
1 SPDT toggle switch (S1) [Jaycar ST0335]
1 7-pin snappable header, 2.54mm pitch or 7 PC stakes
Capacitors
1 100μF 16V radial electrolytic
2 10μF 16V radial electrolytic
2 100nF 50V ceramic
Resistors (all 1/4W 1% axial)
1 10kW
2 5.6kW
2 3.9kW
1 2.7kW
Hardware
1 aluminium plate, 60 × 10 × 2.5mm
1 205mm length of 40 × 25 × 1.6mm aluminium unequal angle
[Bunnings 1138199]
1 20mm length of 25mm or 1in diameter aluminium round bar stock
1 70mm length of 3/32in [2.4mm] brass round bar stock [K&S Metals]
1 30mm length of 20mm diameter aluminium round bar stock
1 40mm length of 10mm diameter aluminium round bar stock
1 can of Rust-oleum Ultra Matte black spray paint
Fasteners
2 10BA x 1/4in or 3/8in hex head machine screws [EJ Winter]
3 8BA x 3/8in, 12mm or 1/2in hex head machine screws [EJ Winter]
2 M3 × 6mm panhead machine screws
2 M2.5 × 8mm panhead machine screws
4 M2.5 hex nuts
Wire
1 4m length of 0.315mm diam. nichrome resistance wire [Jaycar WW4040]
various lengths and colours of light-duty hookup wire
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2023 71
Photo 3: after grinding, the Cam
has had a flat cut in its side, a hole
drilled in the middle and a tapped
hole in the centre of the flat side.
Fig.6: a 7mm
hole needs to
be made in
the middle of
the rail for the
mechanism
to project
through, and
the existing
mounting holes
need to be
enlarged, as
shown here.
a 4mm deep hole using a centre drill
followed by a 4.9mm drill. Reduce the
outside diameter to 25.2mm and part
off a 3mm section.
You can download a 1:1 drawing of
the Cam outline as a PDF from the Silicon Chip website. Print this at actual
size and cut around the circumference
using scissors. Glue this to the 3mm
section using a suitable glue (such as
Tarzan’s Grip), so it is symmetrically
placed, as shown in Photo 2.
Transfer the 3mm section to the linisher and carefully grind out the shape
of the Cam on one side.
Next, use a hacksaw to remove the
lower section and clean up the edge
with a file or an end mill in the milling machine. Then transfer the job to
the milling machine and drill and tap
the hole for an 8BA screw. The tapping
drill size for 8BA is 1.8mm.
Use emery cloth to clean up the
remaining edges and the 4.9mm hole.
The result is shown in Photo 3.
Hornby rail modification
The required modifications are
shown in Fig.6 and Photo 4. You can
use either the Hornby R600 single rail
or the Hornby R601 double rail; the
difference is the spacing of the 1.4mm
holes. For the R600, it is 90.4mm, and
for the R601, it is 76.8mm.
Enlarge the two existing 1.4mm
holes to 2mm in diameter. To allow
clearance for the 7mm diameter end
of the Bush, parts of the two middle
sleepers have to be removed. Use a
small half-round file to do this.
Two Springs
The two Springs to make are shown
in Fig.7 and are visible in Photo 5.
Use a piece of 8mm diameter rod as
a former and close-wind two turns of
28 B&S (0.33mm diameter) nichrome
wire at one end, followed by three
turns spaced 3.2mm apart in the middle and finally, two turns at the end.
Trim off the excess wire.
Mounting Bracket
The Mounting Bracket, shown in
Fig.8 and Photo 6, is made from a 25
× 40 × 1.6mm aluminium L-shaped
extrusion. Cut the extrusion to 100mm
long and clean up the ends with a file,
or do the whole operation in the milling machine fitted with a slot drill. Use
a hacksaw to remove the rectangular
sections at the ends of the 40mm side
of the extrusion.
Photo 4: the Hornby rail after
modification. As well as making
the central hole, the two preexisting attachment holes have
been enlarged.
72
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.7: the Springs
are wound from
nichrome wire on
a 8mm diameter
cylindrical former.
Photo 5 (right): the assembled
Uncoupler with the Platform in the
upper position. The Cam is rotated
so that its long axis is pressing on the
central Pin.
Use a 1/8-inch or 3mm end mill in the
chuck of a milling machine to clean up
the cuts to size.
For smooth operation of the Platform, the location of the 3/32in holes
in the Platform should match the corresponding 2.5mm and 5mm diameter holes in the Mounting Bracket
(fitted with the Bush) exactly. If they
don’t line up, the Platform will jam
in operation.
If you haven’t any means of precision drilling, I suggest you clamp the
Platform and the Bracket together,
then drill the 3/32in holes through both
(instructions for making the Platform
are below).
The end holes in the Bracket can
then be enlarged to 2.5mm and the
centre hole to 5mm in diameter. On
the same centre line, drill and tap the
10BA holes. The drill tapping size for
10BA is 1.4mm. If you are using the
single R600 rail, you need the holes
marked F1, or if using the R601 double rail, you need the holes marked F2.
Turn the Bracket over onto the
40mm side and use a centre drill
followed by a 2.5mm drill to make the
two holes in the centre of the slots.
If you have a milling machine, use a
2.5mm slot drill to elongate the holes.
If you don’t have one, use needle files
to perform the same operation.
Use a hacksaw and chain drilling
to make the 23 × 24mm rectangular notch. If you don’t have a milling machine, smooth the sides with a
series of files. I did this using a milling
machine fitted with a 2.5mm slot drill.
Next, using a 2.5mm drill and an
M3 tap, make the holes for the cover
bracket connecting screws.
Bush
This should be made after the
Mounting Bracket as it must be a tight
fit in it. The details are in Fig.9; you
can see it inserted in the Bracket in
Photo 6.
Chuck a piece of 10mm diameter aluminium round bar stock with
12mm protruding from the chuck. Face
the end and, using a centre drill, then
a 2.4mm drill, bore a 12mm-deep hole.
Reduce the outside diameter to 7mm
Fig.8: the Mounting Bracket is cut from a length of aluminium angle stock.
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Australia's electronics magazine
for a depth of 11mm. Further reduce
the outside diameter to just over 5mm
for 7.5mm, then reduce it further by
small amounts until it is a slide fit in
the 5mm hole in the Bracket. Part it
off to a length of 10mm.
Finally, insert the Bush into the
Bracket and lock it in place using Loctite 620. Be sure to clean out any excess
Loctite from the centre of the Bush and
any remaining on the Bracket. Leave
the piece for 24 hours to let the Loctite
set, then mask the holes in the Bush
with tape and give the Bracket several
light coats of Rust-oleum Ultra Matte
black spray paint.
Two Collars
The Collar details are in Fig.10 and
they are visible in Photo 5.
Chuck a piece of 10mm diameter
aluminium round bar stock with 6mm
protruding. Face the end and, using
a centre drill followed by a 2.4mm
drill, bore a hole 4mm deep. Part off a
3mm section. Using the mill, drill the
1.8mm hole for the 8BA screw and tap
Photo 6: the Mounting Bracket is on
the right, with the Platform attached
to it via the three Pins, while the
Cover Plate is on the left. The Cover
Plate mounts on the back of the
Mounting Bracket. The Bush is the
part around the central sliding pin.
July 2023 73
Fig.9: the Bush fits in a hole in the
Mounting Bracket and guides the
central Pin that the Cam acts on.
Fig.10: The collars keep the spring
in place when they are under
tension.
for 8BA. Finally, clean up the 2.4mm
diameter hole.
aluminium extrusion and is shown in
Photo 6. It hides the servo motor that
sits next to the Platform.
Cut the extrusion to 100mm long
and clean up the ends with a file, or
do the whole operation in a milling
machine fitted with a slot drill. Use
a hacksaw to remove the rectangular
sections at the ends of the 40mm side
of the extrusion, and reduce the width
from 40mm to 15mm.
With a 1/8in or 3mm end mill in the
chuck of a milling machine, clean
up the cuts to size, then drill the two
3.5mm diameter mounting holes.
Photo 6 also shows two small holes
on the 20mm side of the Cover Plate.
My layout is made from polystyrene
foam, so I insert small pins through
these holes to lock the assembly down.
If you want to do something like that,
drill the holes in similar locations.
Finally, apply several light coats of
Rust-oleum Ultra Matte black spray
paint.
Three Pins
The details are shown in Fig.11 and
the three Pins are visible in Photo 6.
Chuck a piece of 3/32in (2.38mm)
diameter brass rod with 20mm protruding. Face the end and use fine
emery cloth to clean up any burrs
from the end, and polish the circumference for 20mm. Part off an 18.6mm
length. For the two outer Pins, leave
the burrs on the parted-off end, as these
will prevent the Pin from going all the
way through the mounting hole in the
Platform when assembled.
However, while the centre Pin is in
the lathe, use a file and emery cloth to
round the end that will make contact
with the Cam.
Two Spacers
As shown in Fig.12, mount an M2.5
nut in the lathe chuck and use a drill to
enlarge the hole to 2.5mm in diameter.
Platform
The details are shown in Fig.13 and
the Platform is visible in Photo 6. It
is made from a piece of 2.5mm-thick
aluminium plate. Cut the plate to size
using a hacksaw and file the sides
smooth, or mill the plate out using a
milling machine fitted with a slot drill.
Cut the end chamfers with a file or use
a milling machine.
Precision-drill the three 3/32in
(2.38mm) diameter holes, if you didn’t
already do it when making the Mounting Bracket.
Cover Plate
The Cover Plate (Fig.14) is made
from a 25 × 40 × 1.6mm L-shaped
This shows
the size and
shape of the
specified
servo motor.
74
Silicon Chip
Marker Post
So that you know where to stop the
train, a small Marker Post is mounted
beside the rail opposite the centre of
the Uncoupler Platform. In operation,
you drive the train up to the Marker
where you want to split it. When the
Platform raises, the coupling hooks of
the carriages next to the Marker are
lifted, and when the train moves forward, the two carriages are split apart.
The Marker Post consists of three
parts: top, support & post (see Fig.15).
For the top, chuck a piece of 10mm
diameter aluminium rod with about
10mm protruding. Face the end and
reduce the outside diameter to 8mm
for a depth of 6mm. Cut the 0.4mm
recess using a 1/4in, 6mm or 6.5mm
slot drill. Part off a 3.5mm length,
mount the other side in the chuck
and cut the other recess using the
same slot drill.
Next, mount the piece in the milling machine vice and drill the 2.1mm
hole for the post.
For the support, chuck a piece of
20mm diameter aluminium rod with
about 8mm protruding. Face the end
Australia's electronics magazine
Fig.11: the Pins slide up
and down in the Bush
and Collars, with the
central Pin being acted
on directly by the Cam
that’s rotated by the
stepper motor.
and reduce the outside diameter to
4mm for 3.5mm, then to a diameter of
12mm for 3mm. Using a centre drill,
followed by a 2.1mm drill, bore out
the end hole for 6mm and part off a
length of 3.5mm.
For the post, cut a piece of 1/16in
(1.58mm) square hollow brass to a
length of 61mm and clean up the
ends. Using Loctite 620, assemble the
parts as shown in the drawing. Leave
it for 24 hours, then apply two light
coats of Rust-oleum Ultra Matte black
spray paint.
Mechanical assembly
Refer back to Figs.1(a)-(c) as a guide
during the final assembly. Photos 5 &
6 should also help.
To start, join the Cover Plate to
the Mounting Bracket using two M3
× 6mm panhead machine screws,
forming a ‘T’ shape. Next, attach the
modified Hornby rail to the Mounting
Bracket using two ½in or 13mm long
10BA screws.
Slide the centre Pin into the Platform with the round end going in first.
If the Pin is too tight, slightly reduce
its diameter by returning it to the lathe
and polishing its outside with emery
cloth. Use Loctite 620 to lock the pin
in place. Be sure to clean off any Loctite, as the last thing we want is to lock
the Platform into the Bracket.
Do the same for the outer Pins, only
this time, they must be fitted with the
parted-off end last. Again, make sure
to remove any excess Loctite. Leave
the assembly for 24 hours to allow
the Loctite to set fully, cover the Pins
with masking tape, and apply several
light coats of matte black spray paint.
When the paint is dry, remove the
masking tape and clean off any remaining glue from the Pins. If all is well, the
Platform should slide into the Mounting Bracket under its own weight when
the Bracket is horizontal.
The Collars and Springs can now
be fitted. The Collars are held in place
by two 8BA screws. Before fitting the
screws, if they are 1/2in long (12.7mm),
reduce their length by 2mm, to around
10mm.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.12: these
Spacers are made
from M2.5 hex
nuts and are used
for mounting the
servo motor in the
correct position.
An alternative way to stop the Collars from coming off is to use a soldering iron to apply a small amount
of solder onto the ends of the outer
Pins. If you need them to come off later,
remove the solder with your soldering
iron and solder wick.
Use two M2.5 × 8mm panhead
screws and the Spacers to mount the
servo motor loosely, as shown in Fig 1.
Set trim potentiometers VR1 and VR2
to their mid positions. With the switch
in the down position (switch open),
apply 5V to the PCB. The servo motor
should now be in its fully anti-clockwise position.
Attach the Cam as shown in Fig.1(a),
with the Platform in its lowest position, then tighten its retaining screw.
The Platform and centre Pin should
be fully down. Slide the servo motor
until the middle Pin just touches the
Cam and tighten the 2.5mm screws
holding the servo motor.
Change the switch to the up position, and the servo motor and Cam
should rotate clockwise, lifting the Pin
and Platform assembly. Set the height
of the top of the Platform above the rail
to 2.7mm by adjusting VR1. Change the
switch to the down position, and the
Platform should move down until it is
flush with the rail sleepers. Its height
can be trimmed with VR2.
Fig.13: the Platform
sits inside the rails
(above the sleepers)
and is moved up and
down by the servo
motor and Cam acting
on the central Pin.
Fig.14: the Cover Plate mounts opposite the Cam, so there is a continuous
rectangle of painted metal under the rails, except where the Pins pass
through to lift the Platform, hiding the mechanism.
Fig.15: the Marker
Post is placed next
to the rail in line
with the centre of
the Platform, so
you know where to
stop the locomotive
before activating
the Uncoupler.
After gluing it
together, I suggest
you paint it matte
black like mine.
Layout assembly
I decided that the best place to fit the
Uncoupler was one rail length before
the end of a siding. This way, I could
back a train into it and uncouple one or
two carriages, then the rest of the train
could leave the siding. Later, the train
could return, recouple the carriages
and remove them from the siding.
My train layout is made from
50mm-thick polyurethane sheets that
sit on a 15mm-thick timber board. I cut
out some foam to enable the Uncoupler
to fit flat with the surface, as shown
in Photo 7.
I then drilled a 7mm diameter hole
in the upper right-hand corner to let
the servo motor wires go through the
timber. You can make a similar cut-out
if your rails are mounted on timber.
siliconchip.com.au
Photo 7: this shows the hole I cut into the polyurethane foam on my layout to
make room for the Uncoupler to sit below its surface. Note how the servo wires
pass through a hole in the timber base.
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2023 75
An alternative circuit without a microcontroller
Some builders are put off projects because they use microcontrollers that require programming. Usually, the design with
a micro uses fewer components and hence is cheaper to build, but in this case, it is marginal.
This alternative circuit (Fig.16) uses two inexpensive CMOS 4047 monostable/astable ICs. IC1 is wired as an astable
that produces a symmetrical square wave output from its pin 10. The frequency is set by the 120kW resistor and the
39nF capacitor by the formula f = 1 ÷ (4.4 × R × C), which gives approximately 49Hz, close enough to the required 50Hz.
IC2 is wired as a monostable that is triggered on every positive-going edge fed to its input pin 8. In this case, it is
triggered every 20ms. The output is a positive-going pulse with a period set by the 33nF capacitor and the resistance
between pin 2 and pin 3, according to the formula t = 2.48 × R × C.
As explained in the main article, we need this to be about 2ms at the low position and close to 1ms at the upper position. These timings are adjusted by 10kW potentiometer VR2 and 5kW potentiometer VR1, respectively. The up/down
switch selects which is active.
If you do the sums, you will see that the 10kW potentiometer with 18kW series resistor enables the period to be changed
from approximately 1.5ms to 2.3ms, and the 5kW potentiometer with 10kW series resistor gives a range of approximately
0.8ms to 1.2ms.
Fig.16: if you don’t want to use a microcontroller, you could build this circuit using logic chips instead. It does much
the same job, although I haven’t designed a PCB to host it.
I mounted the electronics together
with the up/down switch, then used
light-gauge three-core cable (similar to
the wires attached to the servo motor)
to connect the PCB to the motor and
the 5V power supply. I then covered
the wire junctions at the servo end
with heatshrink tubing. Photo 8 shows
the Uncoupler installed.
Using it
Photo 8: the Uncoupler sitting under a rail section on my layout. Note how
the Cover Plate hides the servo motor beneath and the way the Marker Post is
positioned in line with the centre of the Platform.
Back the train down over the Uncoupler, line up the carriage junction you
wish to uncouple with the Marker Post
and stop the train. Throw the Uncoupler switch into the up position and
drive the train forward. The carriages
should now be uncoupled, and you
can return the Uncoupler switch to
the down position.
To reconnect the carriages, back
the train slowly into the stationary
carriage, and it will automatically
hook up.
SC
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oscillator-driven mosfet vibrator replacement
In this article, I present two more fully tested vibrator replacement designs, plus three
additional circuits that readers may wish to experiment with. The first of the two designs
is based on a pair of standard Mosfets and is the most efficient vibrator replacement I’ve
made. It isn’t too complicated to build, either.
Part 2: by Dr Hugo Holden
L
ast month, I presented a Mosfet-
based vibrator replacement for
older communications receivers and
some vintage radios. While it works
very well, it has a couple of drawbacks. One is the relatively large and
obsolete TO-3 package Mosfets. The
other is that it’s only about as efficient
as the mechanical vibrator it replaces.
This somewhat more complicated
design also uses Mosfets, this time
readily-available, low-cost types
specified in TO-220 packages, so it’s
a bit more compact. It also adds four
small-signal Mosfets to form an oscillator to drive those power Mosfets.
That makes it quite a bit more efficient and able to deliver a higher HT; I
measured 72.7% efficiency at 289V DC
output compared to 67% at 276V DC
output for the self-oscillating Mosfet
version and 66.6% efficiency at 267V
DC output for the original mechanical vibrator.
Most parts are available from local
suppliers like Jaycar, Altronics, RS or
element14. The brass plate and wire
are available from Mr Toys in Australia, while the UX7 base is a standard
American Amphenol part that can usually be found on eBay.
Its circuit is shown in Fig.1. A multivibrator is formed by two BS270 Mosfets, Q3 & Q4. This zero-bias configuration gives more reliable starting from
low voltages than biasing these Mosfets to an on condition, which would
be analogous to the usual bipolar transistor multivibrator circuit.
Due to the high impedance at the
Mosfet gates, high-value gate resistors
and low-value timing capacitors can
be used (270kW & 10nF). This results
in accurate timing and avoids the use
of poor-tolerance electrolytic capacitors, as would typically be required
for a low-frequency BJT-based multivibrator.
Diodes D1 and D2 clamp the gate
drive signals to -0.7V. The multivibrator runs close to 110Hz, similar to
a V6295 vibrator that nominally operates at 100Hz.
If anything stops the multivibrator,
or it doesn’t start due to a very slowly
rising supply voltage, the drain potentials of Q3 and Q4 would be high. That
would be a problem if they drove the
output Mosfets directly because both
Mosfets would be on continuously,
shorting out the transformer primaries.
Therefore, an inverting buffer stage
is included, made from identical
Mosfets Q2 and Q5. These also help
to isolate the multivibrator from the
output stage.
The 12V DC supply to the multivibrator is also heavily filtered with
a 150W resistor and 15μF capacitor.
These ensure that the significant voltage transients from pin 4 do not cause
premature triggering of the multivibrator when it is in a vulnerable condition, about to change state.
I used four BS270s rather than a
CMOS IC here as they have much
higher voltage ratings (60V) and are
much more immune to damage from
spikes and transients. They do not
require as much protection on the
power supply feed as a CMOS IC.
This circuit will start from voltages
as low as 6V.
Mosfet switching times
Fig.1: this vibrator replacement uses an oscillator built around signal Mosfets
Q3 & Q4. They drive the gates of power Mosfets Q1 & Q6 via inverter stages Q2
and Q5, which prevent overheating in case the oscillator stops or can’t start.
This is the most efficient of my vibrator replacement designs.
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It is standard practice in switchmode power supply design to drive
the gates of the output Mosfets from
a low impedance source, typically
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Photo 1: the main physical structure
of the Mosfet-based, oscillatordriven vibrator replacement is
made from a 7-pin base, and a
rectangle of 0.8mm-thick brass
with a 15mm tapped metal spacer
soldered to it.
from 10W to 100W, for fast switching.
The power Mosfet gates often have
a significant capacitance of around
500-5000pF, depending on the Mosfet type.
Suppose the gate series resistance is
too high. In that case, it can slow the
switching time down and decrease
the efficiency (increasing the Mosfet
heating) because it spends more time
in an intermediate conduction state
rather than on or off. The switching frequency is often in the range of
20-100kHz in switch-mode PSUs, so
there are many switching events per
unit of time, and these losses add up.
In addition, switch-mode power
supply transformers are generally
wound with a low leakage inductance, often with bifilar wound primary windings. However, the ZC1
power transformer is not like this; it
has a relatively high leakage inductance between the halves of the primary windings. It also operates at a
much lower switching frequency than
a modern SMPS.
Therefore, the design rules for this
application are different. Very rapid
switching of the output Mosfets is
disadvantageous because the transformer’s primary winding leakage
inductance (and leakage reactance) is
so high that this produces very high
voltage transients on the contralateral
Second diode
down in hole
Photo 2: the two series pairs of BY448
diodes are soldered directly to the
base pins.
siliconchip.com.au
or fellow Mosfet’s drain at the moment
one Mosfet switches on.
These spikes are on the order of
70-100V with a resonant frequency of
about 50kHz.
This is ameliorated a little by the
1.5kW gate drive resistor network,
which forms a mild LPF (low-pass
filter) with the gate capacitances of
the IRF540Ns. Also, the added 470nF
‘tuning capacitor’ lowers the resonant
frequency of the leakage inductance-
capacitance network to about 20kHz,
and reduces the voltage transients on
the Mosfet drains to an acceptable
level when switching occurs.
Fig.2: assembly on the doublesided PCB is straightforward, as
shown here. The TO-220 package
Mosfets are first attached to
the brass plate, then the PCB
mounts on the brass plate with
the Mosfet leads bent up to meet
their pads on the PCB. The three
nuts in a triangle pattern are for
spacers that attach the PCB to the
brass plate and provide ground
connections.
Construction
Start by populating the PCB sans
the power Mosfets, Q1 and Q6. The
PCB is coded 18106231 and measures
33 × 45.5.5mm, with the components
mounting on it as shown in Fig.2. Fit
all the resistors, using a DMM to check
their values, then mount the diodes
orientated as shown. Follow with the
capacitors; only the tantalum type is
polarised and should have a + marked
on its body.
Crank the leads of the four identical TO-92 package Mosfets out using
small pliers, then solder them in place,
as shown in Fig.2.
A vibrator replacement requires a
chassis or skeleton to support it, and
preferably a metal heatsink for the
output devices. The simplest way
to do this is to start with a standard
Amphenol UX7 plug and fit it with a
structure composed of a brass spacer,
brass plate and a ground wire from pin
7 of the UX7 socket. The basic parts
are shown in Photo 1, and the ground
wire details are in Fig.4.
To ensure the 3mm diameter hole
in the plug is drilled on-centre, a temporary 3mm spacer can be placed in
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Figs.3 & 4: details of the brass
plate. Note how the tapped spacer
is notched to slide onto the brass
plate’s end so it can be soldered
in place. The way to bend the
2mm-thick brass wire is shown
adjacent to the brass plate, with
the ground wire soldered to the
plate (also see the photos).
July 2023 79
Photo 3: the brass sheet has now been
attached to the base via the spacer
and the 2mm-thick ground wire has
been soldered to it. Fibre washers
around the ground wire help support
the insulator.
Photo 4: next, the Mosfets are mounted
to the brass sheet with insulators in
between, and the leads are bent up,
ready for the PCB. Three wires from
the base have also been bent and
insulated to meet their PCB pads.
Photo 5: with the PCB assembled
and installed, the unit is now ready
for operation. Note that some slight
component placement differences
exist between this prototype and the
final PCB.
the ¼in recess to guide the drill. The
hole is then countersunk from the pin
side of the plug. Next, solder the four
BY448 rectifiers into the plug assembly, as shown in Photo 2.
The brass plate can have its holes
drilled before or after fitting to the
spacer, but it might be easier to do it
first because the plate sits flat. The
required hole positions are shown
in Fig.3.
Cut a 2-2.5mm deep slot in the
15mm-long M3 nickel-plated hex
brass spacer to accommodate the brass
plate. To do this, I used a junior saw
and a fine flat file. Make the plate a
push-fit into the spacer, then solder
them together by holding the assembly with grips over the flame of a gas
stove or with a suitably powerful soldering iron. The spacer’s end needs
to be rounded off a little to fit into the
deep hole in the UX7 plug.
You can temporarily fit the brass
plate and spacer to the plug to align it
correctly, with a brass wire positioned
to pass from pin 7 (Earth) of the plug
to the brass plate, as shown in Photo 3.
Once it’s aligned, solder the brass wire
to the plate. The thick (2mm diameter) brass wire ensures that the plate
cannot rotate easily even if its fixing
screw becomes loose.
I put masking tape on the plate
where the power Mosfets and PCB
spacers will go to allow a good connection, then sprayed it with lacquer
to prevent future oxidation.
Once the lacquer is dry, you can
assemble the hardware ready to
receive the PCB, as shown in Photo 4.
Make a 25mm washer from insulating
material like Presspahn or similar to
cover the rectifier connections. The
other wires can be made from 0.7mm
diameter tinned copper, covered in
silicone rubber or PVC insulation, or
small diameter heatshrink tubing.
Add the ‘tuning’ capacitor, C1,
between the drain connections of the
IRF540N power Mosfets.
Photo 5 shows the PCB fitted over
the Mosfet leads and the output wires
soldered to it. This prototype board
differs slightly in layout from the final
version shown in Fig.2 but has the
same circuit. Photo 6 shows how the
Fig.5: due to the design of the transformer the vibrator drives creates a leakage inductance (XL) in series with the
currently undriven primary, which resonates with Ct, generating voltage spikes at the transitions. Resistance R of the
transformer windings slightly dampens the ringing.
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Photo 6 (left): three short spacers between the brass plate and PCB hold them
together and make the ground connections. The tuning capacitor connects
across the insulated Mosfet mounting screws that connect to the Mosfet drains.
Photo 7 (right): another view of the completed vibrator replacement unit.
tuning capacitor mounts between the
Mosfet tabs and how one of the output wires, plus the 12V supply wire,
pass through holes in the brass plate.
The PCB mounts onto the brass
plate using three 5mm-long M2-tapped
metal spacers. These also make the
GND connections between the PCB
tracks and the brass plate.
Photo 7 shows the finished assembly, while Photo 8 depicts it being
tested in the ZC1 communications
receiver via an extension socket. It is a
good performer, and there is no significant RFI, unlike the original mechanical vibrator:
A metal can is not required as there
are no contacts to protect, but if you
want to hide the electronics, you could
use just about any metal tube with an
inner diameter of at least 34mm. It’s
safe for the can to rest on the brass plate
as it’s at ground potential.
the transformer windings or tuning
capacitor(s).
Fig.5 shows the centre-tapped primary of a transformer driven from
only one side, as it would be half the
time in a push-pull scenario. In this
case, the two halves of the primary
are labelled primary (P) and secondary
(S); even though they are both part of
the primary in actual use, one acts as
a secondary in this particular example.
XL is the transformer’s leakage
reactance, an inductance acting in
series with the windings, which
Photo 8: the vibrator
replacement
undergoing testing
in a ZC1 Mk2
communications
receiver. It’s plugged
in via an extension
that allows the
connections to
be probed during
operation.
Leakage reactance
It is worth looking at the leakage
reactance problem and why the vibrator transformer primaries have a tendency for voltage overshoot. If these
overshoots (oscillations) are too large,
they can exceed the drain-source
voltage of the Mosfet (or collector-
emitter rating if a bipolar transistor
is being used) and are a potential
source for insulation breakdown of
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arises because not all of the magnetic
field links both windings P & S. The
leakage reactance appears in series
with the primary, or the secondary
winding when the other winding
is shorted out or has a fixed voltage
applied to it.
The tuning capacitor, Ct, is the
inter-winding capacitance plus any
externally added capacitance. The
resistance (R) is mainly that of the
ohmic losses of the windings.
Initially, no current flows. When
switch S1 (which could be a transistor) closes, 12V DC is applied to the
primary winding P, effectively shorting it out from the AC perspective
(until the core saturates). The leakage
reactance XL appears in series with
the secondary winding S and induces
a voltage that attempts to raise V2 to
24V, as one side of secondary winding
S is connected to +12V.
To achieve this, Ct must be charged;
it forms a resonant circuit with the
leakage reactance XL, with some
damping by R. Therefore, oscillations
(spikes or ringing) occur on terminal
V2. The frequency of this resonance is
primarily determined by the leakage
inductance XL and the tuning capacitance Ct.
Resistance R also plays a part in the
frequency, as the damping is pretty
heavy, but there can often be four or
five cycles of oscillation or ringing
before they dampen out. This is why
increasing the tuning capacitance lowers both the frequency and the amplitude of these oscillations or ringing.
To look at it another way, the Q of
this resonant circuit comprising R, XL
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July 2023 81
Fig.6: a similar
arrangement to Fig.5 but
showing both halves of the
push-pull configuration,
which results in a burst of
oscillation each time one
of the Mosfets switches on.
and Ct is lowered with a larger tuning capacitor because the resonant
frequency is shifted down, and the
inductive reactance of XL is lower at
that lower resonant frequency.
In the case of the push-pull rather
than the single-ended example above,
the same situation occurs, as shown
in Fig.6; the resistance is omitted for
clarity. When Mosfet Q1 switches on
(red drive waveform high), voltage V1
goes rapidly to zero in a few microseconds or less.
XL1 vanishes when Q1 is conducting as a fixed voltage +V is applied to
winding P1, and all the leakage reactance then appears as XL2 in Q2’s drain
circuit. Q2 is also off at this time. Ct
is in resonance with XL2, so the leading edge of the voltage V2 has ringing and overshoot. The situation is
reversed when Q2 conducts, making
XL2 vanish and placing all the leakage
reactance XL1 into Q1’s drain circuit.
The peak amplitude is around twice
the supply voltage, which holds true
until the magnetic core of the power
transformer starts to saturate. For the
ZC1 radio transformer, this takes about
8ms, so a 100Hz drive waveform does
not take it near core saturation. However, in a future issue I will present a
different vibrator replacement using
bipolar transistors that relies on core
saturation to sustain oscillation.
Scope 1 shows a ZC1 Mk2 radio’s
primary winding voltages with the
vibrator replacement unit presented
here. The oscillations are visible on
the drain connections (transformer
primary) immediately after one Mosfet comes out of conduction and the
fellow Mosfet goes into conduction.
They switch quickly, over less than
a few microseconds, even with the
1.5kW gate resistors.
Scope 2 gives a closer look at the
oscillations. With the 470nF tuning
capacitor, the ringing frequency is
about 20kHz:
Without the added tuning capacitor,
as shown in Scope 3, the ringing frequency is about 50kHz, and the peaks
are much higher. Other smaller oscillations are superimposed due to the
transformer’s high-voltage secondary
windings, their leakage reactance and
associated capacitance.
The initial peak is very high at
around 70V, and on its negative
half-cycle, causes the Mosfet’s internal
drain-source diode to conduct, clamping the negative half-cycle. Scope 4
shows the timing of this transient,
which occurs just after the Mosfet
switches on and its fellow turns off.
Therefore, that 470nF tuning capacitor is important with this Mosfet
version, or any version using silicon
transistors driven by an independent
oscillator (like commercial transistorised units).
With the mechanical vibrator, this
first peak is lower at around 30-40V.
That’s because, with the reduced duty
cycle, the transformer’s primary voltage falls from 24V to about 16V before
the next switchover as the energy
transfer to the circuit comprising Ct
and XL is a little lower.
Another potential method to solve
the leakage reactance/voltage spike
issue is to snub off the high-voltage
transients with a TVS (transient voltage suppressor) to around 30V. However, there is a little more chance of
RFI with this method versus tuning the
Scope 1: the drain voltages of the Mosfets during operation. Scope 2: a close-up of the drain voltage of the Mosfets with a
They switch pretty fast and the oscillation and ringing due 470nF tuning capacitor at transition, showing the oscillation
to the transformer’s leakage reactance is well damped.
and ringing at about 20kHz.
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resonant frequency downwards with
the added tuning capacitor. A bidirectional 30-40V TVS between the output
Mosfet drains would work.
The makers of commercial vibrator
replacements with electronic driver
circuits do not seem to consider the
leakage inductance of the primary of
the vibrator transformers. The tuning
capacitors they specify do not suit an
electronic driver with an independent
oscillator; more capacitance is needed,
or the voltage transients threaten the
output devices and the transformer
insulation.
A safe design
One thing that bothered me about
the commercial designs, which have
gates and logic or other ICs as oscillators, is what would happen if that
clock stopped or did not start. This
can occur if the power supply ramps
up too slowly and is common with
circuits that use logic gates.
It leaves one transistor switched on
and the other off, applying full voltage to one half of the primary and that
will blow the fuse, if there is one, or
overheat the device or the transformer.
With this design, the output devices
remain off if the multivibrator stops
and/or doesn’t start, thanks to the two
extra BS270 signal Mosfets.
Darlington-based alternative
Another vibrator replacement I came
up with is based on Darlington transistors, and this one is simple enough
that it doesn’t need a PCB, although
the metalwork is a bit more complex.
Fig.7: a simple self-oscillating, Darlington-based vibrator replacement.
There are more efficient arrangements than this but it is simple and reliable.
Darlingtons have a low input threshold voltage of around 1.4V, so the circuit will start (oscillate) from low
power supply voltages. The circuit
described here operates with a supply
voltage as low as 3V. Darlington power
transistors also have the advantages of
internal base resistors and collector-
emitter diodes, saving on parts.
Frequency limiting and stable
self-switching can be obtained with
47nF Miller integrator capacitors
between the collector and base of each
Darlington transistor. Without this
negative feedback, the oscillator circuit is highly unstable and oscillates at
a high frequency corresponding to the
power transformer’s primary leakage
reactance and associated capacitances
in resonance. If this persists, the transistors can overheat and be destroyed.
20V/cm
10V/cm
Scope 3: the overshoot is much faster and reaches higher
voltages without the tuning capacitor. This could cause
insulation breakdown or damage to the Mosfets.
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Using Darlington transistors as
switches results in a base drive power
about 10-20 times lower than BJTs
(bipolar junction transistors). The
positive feedback capacitors to sustain oscillation from the collector of
one transistor to the base of the fellow transistor can be a modest value
of 4.7μF, meaning non-electrolytic
types can be used.
Electrolytic capacitors are best
avoided where the values are responsible for setting time constants, due to
their lax tolerances.
The circuit, shown in Fig.7, is based
on MJ3001 or MJ11016 NPN Darlington transistors, oscillating at close to
62Hz.
Scope 5 shows the resulting transformer drive waveform (at one end of
the primary). The collector-emitter
Scope 4: the two Mosfet drain voltages at a short timebase
(without tuning capacitor) shows a large spike at the
switched-off Mosfet’s drain, after the other Mosfet turns on.
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July 2023 83
Scope 5: the Darlington collector waveforms are clean
square waves with rounded edges due to the Miller capacitor
slowing switch-on/switch-off. There’s little sign of ringing.
saturation voltage drop of the Darlingtons in this application with a peak
collector current of 2A is about 0.9V.
Therefore, this Darlington unit results
in an output power about 6% lower
than the Mosfet version.
However, the output voltage and
efficiency are very similar to the original electromechanical V6295. The
advantage is that the Darlington unit
is relatively simple for the home constructor to manufacture.
Scope 6 shows a close-up of the
collector waveform for the Darlington
unit. This shows only a small resonance during the switching event, with
no significant collector voltage overshoot, due to the 47nF Miller capacitors and the switching frequency of
just 60Hz. A 470nF tuning capacitor
is not required here.
Construction
Prepare four brass plates, two of
each type shown in Fig.8. When working with 0.8mm-thick brass plate, it is
best to mark and drill 1mm pilot holes
Scope 6: the Darlington collector voltage during switch-off
with a short timebase. A tiny bit of oscillation is visible
here, but nothing to worry about.
first, then drill the holes out one size
step at a time to get to the final size.
0.8mm (0.032in) thick brass plate
is made by K&S Engineering and is
stocked in Australia by companies
selling models, such as Mr Toys. The
results are shown in Photo 9.
The machined brass base and top are
shown in Photo 10. I had them turned
by a local machine shop, then added
the 7mm-deep threaded holes myself.
The reason for the groove in the base
is that my ZC1 Mk2 communications
receiver has clips around the base of
the vibrator to retain it, and they fit
into this groove (see Photo 11). If your
application is different, you may need
to change the details of the groove, or
eliminate it and simplify the machining if your device lacks such clips.
When tapping into blind holes, use
a tapered tap first and lubricate with
WD40 (or the recommended lubricant
for your metal) during the process.
Then wash all the swarf out of the hole
with a jet of contact cleaner from the
applicator tube.
After that, you can tap to the base
of the holes with a bottom tap to
ensure the thread runs to each hole’s
base. Then wash out the swarf again
with contact cleaner. It is critical to
be patient and careful when marking, centring and drilling the holes,
which are all 9mm from the edges of
the square section, as per Fig.9.
The Amphenol 7-pin plug base is
prepared with the BY448 rectifiers,
just like the Mosfet version described
earlier. Only three wires (the two collector wires and ground) are required
as the +12V connection (pin 4) is not
used – see Photo 13.
Glue this plug arrangement into the
brass base. This is best done as a twostep procedure; use a small amount of
24-hour epoxy to attach it and align
it on the correct axis when the unit
is plugged in. Once cured, add more
epoxy to the well created by the edges
of the plug and the inside of the brass
housing. There’s no risk of it draining
out before it sets because the first bond
has sealed it – see Photos 12 & 13.
Photo 9: these four
brass plates form
the four larger sides
of the housing. Two
have holes drilled
for the TO-3
mounting screws
& leads.
Photo 10 (right): I drilled and tapped 7mm-deep holes with 4-40 UNC threads
in the lid and base to attach the sheets shown in Photo 9. A local machine
shop made these pieces as I don’t have the required tools.
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Photo 11: the groove in the base is
designed to engage these retention
tabs in the ZC1 Mk2 transceiver.
Photo 14 is of the Augat TO-3 transistor sockets I used, usually available
on eBay, plus an insulated standoff (it
is a bit like a single-point tag strip).
Both create convenient tie points for
components, obviate the need for insulators, nuts/washers & lugs for the collector terminals, and the transistors are
easily removed for testing or replacement. You also don’t have to solder to
the transistor leads.
These single insulated mounting
posts are becoming rare. Surplus
Sales of Nebraska still stock a range
of mounting posts like this. Another
option is a phenolic tag strip with a
single lug.
If TO-3 sockets are not used, and
the transistors are instead mounted
with the usual insulator set, reduce
the 5.5mm holes in the brass plates
to 4mm in diameter.
Photo 15 shows the device partially
assembled, with the capacitors and
diodes mounted to the socket and post.
Both sides are identical.
Each transistor base has two capacitors and one diode connected to it.
No resistors are connected to the bases
because the base resistor is internal
to the Darlington transistor. I scribed
marks for the holes on the inside surfaces of the brass plates so they would
not be visible from the outside of the
assembled unit.
Note that I sprayed the brass plates
with DS117 clear automotive lacquer
to prevent oxidation.
Mount the transistors with the usual
mica insulating washer, with thermal
paste on both sides. Clear silicone
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Fig.8: drilling details for the four brass plates (two of each) that make up the
sides of the rectangular Darlington-based vibrator replacement.
Fig.9: details of the machined base and top of the rectangular case. The
groove in the round base is for the retaining clips in the radio to engage; not
all radios with vibrators will have this feature.
Second Bond
First Bond
Photo 12: start assembling the base
by gluing the plug into the machined
brass piece, sealing all around the
perimeter with 24-hour epoxy.
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Photo 13: once the first lot of epoxy
has set, you can add more around the
perimeter at the top edge of the plug
to make it really solid.
July 2023 85
grease is less messy than the white
compound, and the extra is easily
wiped away. In this instance, each
transistor’s dissipation is only 1-1.5W,
so they only run warm; still, it is better to have some thermal coupling to
the brass plate.
Screw the transistors down with
12mm or ½in 6-32 UNC screws that
fit the threads in the Augat sockets. Each screw has a split-spring
lock washer under its head. Photo
16 shows the transistors installed,
while Photo 17 shows the internals
assembled. The 560W resistors pass
from one side to the other, connecting the mounting post connection
to the collector terminal lug on the
opposite transistor.
The screws used to attach the brass
panels to the top and base are stainless
steel 4-40 UNC, ¼in long with a Binder
style head, similar but slightly different to a pan head. These are available
from PSME (Precision Scale Model
Engineering in the USA).
Performance
The Darlington version is almost a
dead-ringer in performance to the electromechanical unit, but of course, with
no reliability or wear problems. The
output voltage is a little lower than the
other electronic units due to the collector-emitter voltage drops of about
0.9V for the Darlingtons.
The similarly low output voltage
of the mechanical unit is due to the
reduced duty cycle compared to the
electronic units. So the two devices
have about the same performance
parameters for different reasons.
Logic IC based vibrators
Fig.10: a vibrator replacement circuit based on a pair of Mosfets & SN7400
quad NAND gate IC. Note the zener diode to protect the IC from voltage
spikes, and the use of logic-level Mosfets, as their gates are only driven to 5V.
AUGAT TO-3 SOCKET
STANDOFF
POST
Photo 14: I
mounted the TO-3
transistors via
sockets to make
construction and
servicing easier.
The insulated
standoff post
mounted near the
socket also makes
the wiring easier.
Photo 15: the two
identical halves
of the circuit are
fully assembled
and ready to be
merged.
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In reference to the Mosfet vibrator
replacement described above, I mentioned in passing devices that use
logic ICs for the oscillator. Figs.10-12
are circuits of unusual variants you
will not see elsewhere. Fig.10 shows
a 6V-powered unit I designed using a
TTL logic gate.
I built some of these using a beam
lead style 7474, mil-spec 5474, or the
5400 NAND gate in ceramic packages,
like those used in the Apollo 11 computers. These are incredibly robust
parts, able to survive re-entry into
the atmosphere in a satellite and still
function! They are the most robust ICs
ever created.
The circuit of Fig.11 is an oddball
arrangement that enables one flip-flop
to be used as an oscillator and the
other as a 2:1 frequency divider (both
in the same IC) to give a spectacularly
perfect square wave. If the wave duty
cycle is not exactly 50%, the current
consumption increases, and the efficiency drops as the transformer core
develops a net flux.
One of the problems I had with
commercial electronic vibrator substitutes was that they used somewhat
fragile CMOS ICs with an imperfect
duty cycle. On top of that, the designers didn’t understand that in the case
of replacing the secondary contacts of
the synchronous vibrator, you need an
extremely high PIV rated diode. And
they ignored the requirement for additional tuning capacitance as well.
Fig.12 is a 12V-powered design
that uses a 7400 (or 5400) logic IC.
The zener diode protects the IC from
voltage transients on the +12V rail.
If a reversed polarity is applied, the
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Fig.11: another vibrator replacement circuit, this time based on two NPN Darlingtons and a dual flip-flop IC. The first
flip-flop is the oscillator, while the second halves the frequency for perfect waveform symmetry.
Fig.12: a similar circuit to Fig.10, only using Darlingtons instead of logic-level Mosfets, and with values changed to
suit a 12V battery supply. All of these circuits (Figs.10-12) also need the diodes shown at right.
Photo 16 (left): an
outside view of the two
halves showing how
the TO-3 transistors are
retained.
Photo 17 (right): once the two halves are attached to the base, the wiring can
be finalised by adding the two resistors that go from one side to the other, plus
the two collector (blue) and two ground connections (black sheathed wire).
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2023 87
Parts List – Vibrator Replacements
Mosfet version
1 double-sided PCB coded 18106231, 33 × 45.5mm
1 Amphenol 7-pin base [www.ebay.com.au/itm/115461595962]
1 brass plate, 65 × 34 × 0.8mm (0.032in)
1 50mm length of 2mm diameter brass wire
1 200mm length of 0.7mm diameter tinned copper wire
1 200mm length of 1.5mm diameter heatshrink or spaghetti tubing
2 TO-220 transistor insulating kits (washers + bushes)
2 M3 × 6mm panhead machine screws and nuts
3 M2 × 12mm panhead machine screws and nuts
1 25mm disc of insulating material (phenolic, FR-4, Presspahn etc)
3 metal spacers (4mm diameter, 5mm tall) with matching screws and nuts
2 3mm solder lugs
hardware etc (available from K & S Engineering USA)
Photo 18: the rectangular prism
brass case of the Darlington vibrator
replacement forms the structure and
provides heatsinking for the TO-3
metal can encapsulated transistors.
Semiconductors
2 IRF540N 100V 33A N-channel Mosfets, TO-220 (Q1, Q6)
4 BS270 60V 400mA N-channel Mosfets, TO-92 (Q2-Q5)
2 1N4148 75V 200mA diodes, DO-35 (D1, D2)
4 BY448 1.5kV 2A axial diodes (D3-D6)
Capacitors
1 15μF 35V tantalum
1 470nF 250V polyester or polypropylene axial
2 10nF 100V MKT polyester or greencap
Resistors (all ¼W or ⅛W 1% axial)
2 270kW
2 10kW
4 1.5kW
1 150W
2 100W
Photo 19: with the lid and four sides
held together and to the base by
screws, the vibrator replacement is
ready for testing and use!
Darlington version
1 Amphenol 7-pin base [www.ebay.com.au/itm/115461595962]
2 Augat or similar TO-3 sockets [www.ebay.com.au/itm/144066503423]
2 TO-3 mica insulating washers
4 brass plates, 68 × 42 × 0.8mm (0.032in) each (see Fig.8)
1 machined brass base, 40 × 40 × 14mm (see Fig.9)
1 machined brass lid, 40 × 40 × 7mm (see Fig.9)
1 200mm length of 0.7mm diameter tinned copper wire
1 200mm length of 1.5mm diameter heatshrink or spaghetti tubing
1 6mm or ¼in long stainless steel 4-40 UNC screws, panhead or Binder-style
[PSME]
4 12mm or ½in long 6-32 UNC panhead machine screws
2 6-32 UNC split spring washers
2 insulated standoff posts with matching panhead machine screws
Semiconductors & passives
2 MJ11016G 120V 30A NPN Darlington transistors, TO-3 (Q1, Q2)
[RS Cat 463-000] OR
2 MJ3001 80V 10A NPN Darlington transistors, TO-3 (Q1, Q2)
[www.ebay.com.au/itm/303226250083]
2 1N4004 400V 1A diodes (D1, D2)
4 BY448 1.5kV 2A axial diodes (D3-D6)
2 47nF 400V axial plastic film capacitors
2 4.7μF 63V axial plastic film capacitors
2 560W 1W axial resistors
88
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
zener conducts in the forward direction, protecting the IC. In that case, the
collector-emitter diodes intrinsic to the
Darlington transistors conduct, blowing the fuse (hopefully, there is one).
I’m not presenting construction
details for any of these because I
believe the three discrete designs
I’ve published so far (with one more
to come) are more robust and generally better.
Coming up
I have built one more vibrator
replacement design that is quite a bit
more difficult than any of the versions
described so far. It is based on two
bipolar transistors, a custom transformer, and a few passive components.
It is a design that could have
appeared in the early days of transistors, when they were expensive, as it
uses them sparingly. Despite this, it
works just as well as the Darlington-
based version described in this article,
with similar efficiency and delivering a similar output voltage. You can
expect to see that article within the
next few months.
SC
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Q METER SHORT-FORM KIT (CAT SC6585)
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GPS DISCIPLINED OSCILLATOR
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RASPBERRY PI PICO W BACKPACK
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Larger (black PCB) kit: includes PCB, tag IC and passive parts (Cat SC6748)
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Includes all parts, except the case, TCXO and AA cells (see page 57, July 2023) $60.00
Kit: includes everything but the case, battery and optional pot (Cat SC6656)
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- CH340G-based USB/serial module with panel-mount USB ext. (Cat SC6736)
- NEO-7M GPS module with SMA connector (Cat SC6737)
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- DD4012SA 12V to 7.5V buck-converter module (Cat SC6339)
SONGBIRD KIT (CAT SC6633)
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DUAL RF AMPLIFIER KIT (CAT SC6592)
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WIDEBAND FUEL MIXTURE DISPLAY (CAT SC6721)
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Includes all parts required, except the base/stand (see page 86, May 2023)
Includes the PCB and all onboard parts (see page 34, May 2023)
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DIGITAL VOLUME CONTROL POTENTIOMETER
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Complete kit: includes all parts required, except the coin cell & ICSP header
SMD version kit: includes all relevant parts except the
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Through-hole version kit: includes all relevant parts (with SMD PGA2311)
except the universal remote control and activity LED (Cat SC6624)
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SERVICEMAN’S LOG
Can’t stop servicing, even on holiday!
Dave Thompson
Five years have passed since I have had a proper holiday (not just the
odd day off), where I get to laze around and do nothing, or at least
whatever I want. All without the phone ringing, email notifications going
off, or people turning up at the workshop, expecting me to fix something
while they wait.
Sometimes, it’s hard to stay above it all, a feeling I’m
sure most of you are familiar with!
Many people will likely synchronise whatever holidays
they get each year with kids’ school holidays or their own
time off work. As a sole trader with no school holidays to
worry about, I often don’t get to have the usual days off.
There is always something to do, whether it is researching or making components from scratch for weird jobs, or
trying to track down spares for my work tools.
Then there’s all the usual household maintenance. I suppose I could pay someone to do that, but it seems a bit silly
to shell out for someone to come around and mow lawns, or
clear gutters while I am still relatively capable of doing it.
So, a holiday then, a real one, which involves travelling
to Europe to visit family. We were due to go a few years ago,
but sadly, world events got in the way. That made it difficult and expensive to go anywhere, so we knuckled down
like everyone else and just got through it as best we could.
Finally, things have returned (somewhat) to normal, so
we took the opportunity to take some time off. My wife is
lucky in that she permanently works from home, and part
of the deal was that she would do a few days of remote
work each week while we were overseas.
That actually took a surprising amount of legal jiggery-
pokery due to the sensitive commercial nature of her work
and the fact she’d be bringing a work laptop with her. Some
people cannot work remotely from certain countries; fortunately, Croatia is OK, being now part of the EU.
The morning of our departure, a neighbour was to drop
us off at the airport. We were lucky we didn’t have to be at
the airport at some ungodly hour, so we had some time to
relax. This spare time was important, as when the neighbour came to pick us up and I loaded our bags into the
boot of his car, I caught one of the straps holding his folding rear parcel shelf and popped the plastic bung/holder
from its anchor point.
No matter; I should be able to simply pop it back in.
Except I couldn’t because it had broken off, and the flexible expanding base part that would usually keep the mount
in its hole was half missing. Great!
Feeling sheepish about breaking his car, I realised that
the bungs were very similar on our own car, so I fumbled
through our luggage to find a key, politely avoiding his
objections that he’d fix it, and pulled one from our boot. It
was almost the same in looks and the same size, so I popped
both from our car and replaced both in his car. Problem
solved; I’d get new ones when we got back. So, job done!
Just plane broken
At the airport, we boarded our flight only to be told the
entertainment/media screen on my seat was not working.
The flight to Singapore was quite full, and the ‘fix’ the purser
offered was that if I wanted to watch a movie, I could go
to an empty seat way down the back in cattle class. That
is obviously less than ideal, and I was not that pleased.
We faced an almost-12-hour flight, and without a book,
I’d only have my wife and my phone for company unless
I sat at the back of the plane.
The engineers had apparently been trying to fix it during
the turnaround but ran out of time. The start of this trip
was not looking promising!
While everyone else was boarding, I looked over the
screen in this Airbus A350. It was pretty big compared to
what I was used to. The trim around it hadn’t been pushed
closed properly, so like any good inquisitive serviceman,
and against my wife’s protests, I gently unclipped it all the
way and removed it.
I know I shouldn’t have, but in my defence, they had
left it like that, and I couldn’t help myself to take a look.
92
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Items Covered This Month
•
•
•
•
A servicing free holiday (not!)
Bringing a mobile phone battery back to life
Repairing a Zodiac pool cleaner
Pfaff sewing machine repair
Dave Thompson runs PC Anytime in Christchurch, NZ.
Website: www.pcanytime.co.nz
Email: dave<at>pcanytime.co.nz
Cartoonist – Louis Decrevel
Website: loueee.com
There was not much to see underneath anyway, but I did
notice one corner of the screen’s frame hadn’t seated back
in properly and was protruding by about 1-2mm. This
could be why the trim hadn’t fitted flush like the rest of it.
Now, stressing screens like this isn’t a good idea, even
accidentally, but it appeared OK, with no obvious cracks.
I’ve seen enough cracked internally after being flexed even
less than this, though, so I didn’t hold out much hope.
Regardless, I gently pushed on it right over the metal-framed
edge and increased my pressure until I felt it click back
into place (or break, I wasn’t sure which)!
The boarding hullabaloo around me ensured that what I
was doing wasn’t apparent to anyone other than my by-now
horrified wife. Still, suddenly I got a message on the screen
simply saying ‘rebooting’, and a progress bar told me it was
almost done! I replaced the trim surround, and after the
screen went blank for what seemed an agonisingly long
time, up came the KrisWorld entertainment menu.
I was pleased I wouldn’t have to change seats, and I
hoped that the thing would hold out for the whole flight.
Like so many of my repairs on stuff I know nothing about,
it was just dumb serviceman’s luck and a complete fluke
that it was now working. That reminds me, I should send
my invoice to the airline...
Fortunately, the rest of the flight went without me having
to repair anything. We had a decent layover in Singapore,
but not enough to leave the transit area. We found a lounge,
paid our entry fees and parked up, partaking of the comfortable seating, endless buffet and bottomless drinks menu.
The problem with bottomless drinks is the frequent need
for restrooms. I made my way to the closest one, but it was
closed for cleaning. That wasn’t a problem; in Terminal 3 at
Changi, plenty of others are a short walk away. As I went to
find one of those, I noticed through the open door a cleaner
appearing to struggle with a floor-cleaning machine.
did feel slogged out. I took the strain out of the connection
and moved the cable into several positions while hitting the
switch. The machine fired up with it in one position, but it
stopped again after letting the cable go. The strain reliever
where the lead entered the plug and the cable itself didn’t
look stressed, so I assumed it was the plug.
Physically moving the plug with the power switch on
resulted in the motor kicking and stopping. So, the plug
and/or socket, then.
I looped the cable through one of the handles on the
machine’s body and tied a knot in it, taking any stress off
the connection but holding it in a position where power
made it through. The machine fired up and stayed running,
even with moving it around. There was no obvious burning or arcing at the socket.
Not ideal, obviously, but she was relieved that at least
she could finish this job, open the loos and then have the
service guys look at it properly. I even got to use the toilet,
so a reward in kind!
Amazingly, nothing needed fixing for the rest of the
two-day journey. I guess there were some things, but by
that point, I was so sick of airports and lounges that the
place could fall down for all I cared; I just wanted to get to
our destination. I’ll wager I’m not the only traveller who
greatly rues that we haven’t yet perfected a Star Trek-style
transporter!
Wife needs WiFi
Reaching our final destination threw up some other challenges. It seems that once they knew we were coming, they
started making a list of what I might be able to help them
out with! While it’s nice to be wanted...
Of course, the first thing we’d want to do is get connected to the internet. We couldn’t, at least not in the part
of this partitioned house we would be staying in. The solid
concrete and reinforced steel walls of these typical Croatian homes seem impervious to WiFi signals! That meant
going to the other part of the house if we wanted any WiFi
connectivity.
Servicing around the world
This thing looked like a mashup of an industrial vacuum
cleaner and a floor cleaner/polisher. She was switching it
on and off, and it seemed to be trying to start but failing.
Exasperated, she gave up.
Again, the Serviceman’s Curse stepped in, and I walked
in and asked if I could help. She was very grateful and
gladly accepted. I noticed as she operated the switch on
the side of the machine, it rotated slightly with the pressure, pulling on the power cable. I suspected there could
be a break in the power lead, or the machine’s socket and
plug might be contacting intermittently.
I checked that the plug was hard into the socket, but it
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2023 93
It would do for a day or so, but something needed to be
done as a long-term solution. Regular readers may recall
me talking of this same scenario five years ago; work has
been done on this house, and my previous repeater setup
had been dismantled. Due to the new construction, that
option was no longer available. Running cables by drilling
holes in walls is a big no-no!
We browsed the local computer store and purchased a
decent long-range router; I wish hardware were this cheap
in New Zealand! I may even take it home with me this time.
Our only option was to run a cable from the existing
router in the other part of the house up along the corners of
rooms and tops of walls and down along the skirting boards.
I would be taking full advantage of some gaps underneath
doors, which were opened ironically due to a good earthquake here a few years back.
The new router would be positioned on the dusty top of a
cupboard just through the wall from where we’ll be spending the most time. This arrangement gave wider WiFi coverage and allowed us to get some reasonable speeds, although
it maxed out at 30Mbps down and 5Mbps up. That’s a long
way down from the 980Mbps down and 600Mbps up we
usually get back home!
Even then, my wife could not reliably use Microsoft
Teams for her work, which was a major roadblock. We
worked around that by buying a local data-only SIM for
my dual-SIM Samsung Galaxy S22 and setting it up as a
mobile hotspot. That gave us some excellent speeds, as this
town’s mobile coverage is pretty good.
She no longer has any problems doing her work, and
I can surf the web and email, so that’s another couple of
fires put out!
They knew we were coming
Many people here own what they call a beach house.
This family is no different. In reality, these are more like
apartments and the coastline is covered in them. Some
have just one apartment for the family, while others have
several that are rented out during the season to some of the
millions of tourists who flock here every summer.
94
Silicon Chip
Our visit, just pre-season, coincided with
my mother-in-law going to her beach house to
prepare her two apartments for guests.
As you would surmise, these places sit
empty for eight months of the year and, being by the seaside, nature can be harsh. Though pretty tightly locked
and sealed against the elements with the amazing shutter
and window systems they use here, most places need frequent maintenance.
A repaint every few years is essential, and any metalwork such as railings and fittings (of which there is a lot)
must also be sanded and painted. I did a lot of that last
time and wasn’t overly keen to do more, but apparently,
there was a problem with the TV in one apartment and the
mains power in another.
I could probably handle the TV – the mains power, well,
we’ll see. The culture here is very much DIY or helped by
your mates, with calling in a professional an absolute last
resort. All the family members who could do this sort of
stuff have moved on, so if I’m around, I’m tapped on the
shoulder.
The part of the coast the house is located is about 30km
from where we are, over a very narrow road over the hills
(although it’s infinitely better now than before). Once there
(still nerve-wracking after all these years), I got into sorting the TV. It’s a wall-mounted flat screen, about 50 inches
(1.27m) diagonally, and made by some local brand, likely
stuffed with Blaupunkt or Phillips hardware.
I’m guessing they are similar to the cheaper no-name
brands the appliance stores sell back home; those usually
have a well-deserved bad reputation for quality control.
I’ve worked on a few back home, and I was hoping this
wasn’t anything too serious this time.
Due to the relatively low cost (for us tourists), it is often
easier just to buy another one, but that seems to be against
the ethos of many older people here!
The TV powered on, but its reception was terrible. All the
TVs in the block (three in different rooms) shared a common antenna, on the roof, of course. Cabling came down
from the antenna and was embedded in the walls when the
place was expanded upwards of 10 years ago. The antenna
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
points are screwed to the wall, and each TV connects via
a coaxial cable and standard Belling-Lee plug.
The TV reception in the top apartment wasn’t too flash
either, so it was most likely the antenna. Great; I’m not good
with heights, and the ladder system to reach the roof is rickety at best. Still, with the ladies watching, I couldn’t very
well leave it at that, so up I went. I was fine once I was up
there, except the typical red terracotta tiles were already
so hot, so I couldn’t stay in one place for long.
Luckily, it is relatively flat, as is typical in many temperate climates (average temperature here: 19.7°C).
As you’d expect, the antenna was a feast of corrosion. I
cleaned it up as best I could with sandpaper, stripped and
reattached the cable at the terminal box, and reports from
below claimed all TVs worked perfectly. The mains issue
would have to wait. I was baking and needed a swim.
This is our holiday, after all!
Bringing a battery back to life
J. W., of Bairnsdale, Vic was prompted to write in after
reading the contribution by D. M. of Toorak, Vic in the Serviceman’s Log of December 2022, about reviving a lithium
battery that had been over-discharged...
I had a similar problem when I wanted to use a mobile
phone that had been sitting idle for a while. There was no
power and the phone would not charge.
Since the battery was removable, I took it out and measured no voltage between the terminals. I’m a bit of a miser
and didn’t want to spend the money on a new battery if the
old one could be salvaged, so I had to be careful how I proceeded. My repair attempt would be no good if I destroyed
the battery trying to open it.
Some slow and careful probing, along with persistent
levering, allowed me to separate the plastic divider on the
negative side of the battery from the battery. I managed to
do that without breaking the connection between the battery and the protection circuit, which was housed inside
the divider.
Further probing with a multimeter on the exposed cell
terminals revealed that it was down to less than a volt,
which was obviously far too low. With little hope in my
heart, I nevertheless connected a regulated power supply
to the cell terminals, set for 4.2V and, keeping the current
limit low for safety, applied 500mA and then monitored
the battery closely for signs of distress while it charged.
Around two hours later and with no signs of distress,
the cell was showing around 3.2V, so it was probably time
to use the proper charger to finish the job. I closed the battery and inserted it into the phone. Although it was a little
snug due to my ‘surgery’, it did fit. I connected the charger,
and the battery took a full charge.
It’s a wonder that the battery recovered, but I’m happy
with the result. I won’t be entirely trusting that battery since
spending some time at such a low charge level may have
damaged it internally. Still, it seems that under-voltage may
be less of a concern for lithium batteries than over-voltage is.
I saved approximately $50, which I otherwise would
have needed to pay for a new battery.
Pool cleaner motor repair
R. S., of Fig Tree Pocket, Qld has been busy fixing (among
other things) a pool cleaner...
The Zodiac VX55 pool cleaner motor block has three
motors: two geared ones for the wheels, plus a large one
to pump water through the cleaner. There is also a circuit
board that powers the motors. The wheel motors are each
driven by four Mosfets, two N-channel and two P-channel
so that they can be driven forwards and backwards. There
is one N-channel Mosfet to drive the pump motor.
A three-way cable feeds the motor block with 30V, Earth,
plus a bidirectional data line from the external controller.
The data line is serial, with commands sent from the controller and any error messages returned to the controller. If
the controller cannot communicate with the motor block,
it displays Error 10.
The Mosfets can go short-circuit, and this will give a
‘motor shorted’ error. These can be replaced, but water leakage into the motor block can cause board corrosion. Clean
the board if you can, or try to get a replacement on eBay.
Also check the motors by powering them with an external
supply. When you put the motor block back together, use
a water seal compound; otherwise, the o-ring will leak.
Sewing machine repairs
B. M., of Powranna, Tas is usually a little reticent about
diving into the unknown, especially mains-powered
devices. Still, living in the country, he sometimes must
tackle things he otherwise probably wouldn’t...
Among the fixes I have undertaken since Christmas are
two of my wife’s extensive collection of sewing machines
The Zodiac cleaner body (left) and the main PCB that controls the motors (right).
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2023 95
(she has many but still complains about my collection
of toys etc!). The first was a computerised Pfaff, Model
1473CD, from the mid-to-late 1980s. She bought this
second-hand many years ago, so we know little about its
history.
It carries a label to the effect that it was made in West
Germany. The Berlin Wall came down in 1988, and the
two Germanies reunited in 1990, so it was pretty easy to
date this one. It had seemingly died, the display remaining unlit and the motor refusing to start.
I immediately suspected electrolytic capacitors, as the
machine hadn’t been used for a few years. I persuaded her
to leave it powered up for a few hours in case the electrolytics needed to reform.
Sure enough, the next morning, there were signs of life
on the display, and she could select a few of the 168 stitch
patterns from the controls. It also started to run, although
very slowly, and it wouldn’t stitch in reverse. Still, she
was encouraged by the progress as it had been one of her
favourites way back.
So, there followed a further period of leaving it powered
up to see if further capacitor reforming was possible. It was;
many more stitches could be selected, and it looked like
a very simple fix. The trouble was, the next time she tried
it, all seemed OK until she stopped to have lunch, leaving
the machine powered up.
During lunch, we heard it start up and slowly start stitching away, all by itself! That struck me as a risky failure
mode, but there it was, happily sewing some imaginary
fabric with no operator within cooee.
Time for some web research by yours truly. As suspected,
I found a lot of reported instances over the years involving
this behaviour with this model and several others in the
Pfaff range. Most had been met by advice that the control
board required replacing; of course, it is no longer available.
Then I found one post that agreed with my suspected
diagnosis, even identifying 22μF electrolytics as the likely
culprits and suggesting that the faulty machine be taken to
an electronics repair shop, rather than a Pfaff agent, for their
replacement. That persuaded me to take the machine apart.
We did find a repair manual for it online, but there was no
circuit diagram included, just a note that the board should
be replaced entirely. The only thing to do was to take a look.
Getting at the board was as simple as undoing a few
screws and removing a plastic base. A few more screws
released the board from the metal machine frame, then
came the unplugging of myriad cables. Talk about nostalgia.
On turning the board over, I was greeted by a linear power
supply, including the transformer, three 8-bit micros and
numerous other chips, all clearly bearing their maker’s
brand and type numbers, plus the typical range of discrete
components. Best of all, it was all through-hole!
There were five radial 22μF electrolytics to bypass the
supply lines to the digital chips, a 4700μF 16V axial type
to filter the supply for the digital chips and a 2200μF 63V
axial in what I assume was the supply for the motor control circuitry.
I could see no evident distortion on any of the caps. Still,
as I had a few hundred 22μF caps on hand from several
cartons of components I had bought from the family of a
former TV serviceman back around 2005, I replaced them
all (my wife also complains about my hoard of parts despite
my insistence that they will all come in handy one day!).
96
Silicon Chip
The originals were rated at 6.3V, whereas my stock was
all 16V, but I thought that should be OK. To my surprise,
I didn’t have anything approaching 4700μF in axial form
and nothing at all in higher voltage axials for the 2200μF.
I wanted a few other bits but couldn’t see them in stock at
element14, so I looked at Digi-Key, despite some bad experiences buying from overseas in the past.
I noticed they match the free shipping on orders over
$60 from element14 etc. They had all the parts I required
in stock, so I ordered from them on Tuesday morning. I was
stunned to receive the package on Friday morning, having
come from the USA via UPS and then the final delivery
into my PO Box by AusPost!
With the bits on hand, replacing the two remaining capacitors went smoothly. There was also some corrosion on the
board from a pair of AA cells that obviously supplied the
memory backup (no flash etc in those days). Cleaning that
away just left discolouration on the tracks where it had
eaten through the solder resist.
After reassembling the machine, I took the precaution of
warning my wife that, again, the electrolytics might take
some time to reform, especially the 22μFs from my stock
that I knew had to be probably 30 years old. Sure enough,
on powering up, only the work light came on, so we left
it powered up.
About an hour and a half later, I walked past the machine
on the way to the kitchen and saw that the display was now
alive with a series of numbers that meant nothing to me,
so I called the cook. She immediately recognised them as
stitch codes, so she sat down to explore some more and
finally, fed in some fabric and stepped on the foot pedal.
The machine immediately sprung into action and produced the selected stitch pattern.
I think she then tried all 168 available and declared herself very happy! She later went onto one of her international sewing groups to tell of my miraculous fix and got
swamped by queries from others with similar dead Pfaffs.
I was just happy that the fix had proven so simple and
cheap, even if I’m still not sure if the caps were the problem, or whether it was the corrosion.
Anyway, it was a machine saved from being junked,
and I enjoyed the brief period of hero status, knowing it
couldn’t last long. Incidentally, I also came across reported
instances of other brands of sewing machines from that era
having similar symptoms and similar solutions.
The second fix concerned a Husqvarna Huskylock 910
overlocker machine from 1997. I knew the age of this one
The Pfaff sewing machine control board.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
as we bought it new at the local agricultural fair not long
after buying our property here. Of course, it had also been
declared as her favourite overlocker and required fixing,
despite the presence of at least three other overlockers,
including another recently acquired model 910.
Editor’s note: an overlocker is a special sewing machine
used for cleaning up edges or forming tidy seams between
pieces of fabric.
The favourite had died mid-stitch last year when the
motor slowed dramatically and then stopped entirely. I
immediately thought it was probably the brushes, a very
dirty commutator, or maybe the bearings. The motor is, of
course, buried deep inside the machine, so major disassembly was required.
I’m always worried when tackling plastic cases, as they
seem to quickly embrittle, and bits are likely to break off,
usually right where the fasteners go. In this case, though,
it came apart fairly easily, so the motor was soon out. The
brushes looked fine, so I disassembled the motor.
The commutator had a bit of crud on it, but not enough
to prevent the brushes from doing their thing. I polished
it anyway, then took a close at the windings. They looked
OK, with no sign of overheating etc. So, out with the multimeter. The windings were fine, so it was on to checking
the brush holders and their wiring.
Only then did I notice a small component in series with
one brush holder. It measured open-circuit. I took it out
to find it was a 150°C thermal fuse that hadn’t appeared
in any of the videos I had seen on YouTube. It was rated
at 2A/250V.
A check of Jaycar’s catalog showed their nearest thermal fuse at 158°C and 10A. The catalog gave the physical
dimensions; it was larger but looked like it could fit, so I
was off on the 60km roundtrip to buy some.
It was indeed a bit of a battle to fit the fatter fuse in so
that it didn’t interfere with the armature, but I was confident it would do the job, and the extra current rating
wouldn’t hurt. I couldn’t see any risk in it blowing 8°C
degrees higher than the original.
There was no trace of heat damage elsewhere in the motor,
so I think it just failed rather than doing its job when the
motor overheated. So it was another successful fix at the
grand cost of $3.95 plus time and fuel costs. The second
win was that I only had two surplus bits left over after
re-assembly the first time, none after the second!
Yet again, I had a happy wife, but I should have known
better. She has since lined up other sewing machines for
me to look at, including a four-thread embroidery device.
I’ve had to search for a special needle-height setting gauge
to get it back to being four-thread from its present unhappy
three-thread status.
Then there is another Husqvarna machine where I will
probably have to salvage a 3.5in floppy drive from an old
PC to get fully operational again. It is currently with the
serviceman who aligned it in late December, but the floppy
was not working on its return. It had been before his service. Luckily, I still have one out in storage.
Then there is a clutch of much older, purely mechanical machines; I hope the problems only turn out to be
motor related.
To think that I knew virtually nothing about sewing
machines just a few weeks ago, other than we had a lot
of them!
SC
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2023 97
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS & CASE PIECES
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT
IR REMOTE CONTROL ASSISTANT PCB (JAYCAR)
↳ ALTRONICS VERSION
USB SUPERCODEC
↳ BALANCED ATTENUATOR
SWITCHMODE 78XX REPLACEMENT
ULTRASONIC CLEANER MAIN PCB
↳ FRONT PANEL
NIGHT KEEPER LIGHTHOUSE
SHIRT POCKET AUDIO OSCILLATOR
↳ 8-PIN ATtiny PROGRAMMING ADAPTOR
D1 MINI LCD WIFI BACKPACK
FLEXIBLE DIGITAL LIGHTING CONTROLLER SLAVE
↳ FRONT PANEL (BLACK)
LED XMAS ORNAMENTS
30 LED STACKABLE STAR
↳ RGB VERSION (BLACK)
DIGITAL LIGHTING MICROMITE MASTER
↳ CP2102 ADAPTOR
BATTERY VINTAGE RADIO POWER SUPPLY
DUAL BATTERY LIFESAVER
DIGITAL LIGHTING CONTROLLER LED SLAVE
BK1198 AM/FM/SW RADIO
MINIHEART HEARTBEAT SIMULATOR
I’M BUSY GO AWAY (DOOR WARNING)
BATTERY MULTI LOGGER
ELECTRONIC WIND CHIMES
ARDUINO 0-14V POWER SUPPLY SHIELD
HIGH-CURRENT BATTERY BALANCER (4-LAYERS)
MINI ISOLATED SERIAL LINK
REFINED FULL-WAVE MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
DIGITAL FX UNIT PCB (POTENTIOMETER-BASED)
↳ SWITCH-BASED
ARDUINO MIDI SHIELD
↳ 8X8 TACTILE PUSHBUTTON SWITCH MATRIX
HYBRID LAB POWER SUPPLY CONTROL PCB
↳ REGULATOR PCB
VARIAC MAINS VOLTAGE REGULATION
ADVANCED GPS COMPUTER
PIC PROGRAMMING HELPER 8-PIN PCB
↳ 8/14/20-PIN PCB
ARCADE MINI PONG
Si473x FM/AM/SW DIGITAL RADIO
20A DC MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
MODEL RAILWAY LEVEL CROSSING
COLOUR MAXIMITE 2 GEN2 (4 LAYERS)
BATTERY MANAGER SWITCH MODULE
↳ I/O EXPANDER
NANO TV PONG
LINEAR MIDI KEYBOARD (8 KEYS) + 2 JOINERS
↳ JOINER ONLY (1pc)
TOUCHSCREEN DIGITAL PREAMP
↳ RIBBON CABLE / IR ADAPTOR
2-/3-WAY ACTIVE CROSSOVER
TELE-COM INTERCOM
SMD TEST TWEEZERS (3 PCB SET)
USB CABLE TESTER MAIN PCB
↳ FRONT PANEL (GREEN)
MODEL RAILWAY CARRIAGE LIGHTS
HUMMINGBIRD AMPLIFIER
DIGITAL LIGHTING CONTROLLER TRANSLATOR
SMD TRAINER
8-LED METRONOME
10-LED METRONOME
REMOTE CONTROL RANGE EXTENDER UHF-TO-IR
↳ IR-TO-UHF
6-CHANNEL LOUDSPEAKER PROTECTOR
↳ 4-CHANNEL
FAN CONTROLLER & LOUDSPEAKER PROTECTOR
SOLID STATE TESLA COIL (SET OF 2 PCBs)
REMOTE GATE CONTROLLER
DUAL HYBRID POWER SUPPLY SET (2 REGULATORS)
↳ REGULATOR
↳ FRONT PANEL
DATE
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JAN22
JAN22
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FEB22
FEB22
FEB22
FEB22
PCB CODE
15005201
15005202
01106201
01106202
18105201
04105201
04105202
08110201
01110201
01110202
24106121
16110202
16110203
16111191-9
16109201
16109202
16110201
16110204
11111201
11111202
16110205
CSE200902A
01109201
16112201
11106201
23011201
18106201
14102211
24102211
10102211
01102211
01102212
23101211
23101212
18104211
18104212
10103211
05102211
24106211
24106212
08105211
CSE210301C
11006211
09108211
07108211
11104211
11104212
08105212
23101213
23101214
01103191
01103192
01109211
12110121
04106211/2
04108211
04108212
09109211
01111211
16110206
29106211
23111211
23111212
15109211
15109212
01101221
01101222
01102221
26112211/2
11009121
SC6204
18107211
18107212
Price
$5.00
$5.00
$12.50
$7.50
$2.50
$7.50
$5.00
$5.00
$2.50
$1.50
$5.00
$20.00
$20.00
$3.00
$12.50
$12.50
$5.00
$2.50
$7.50
$2.50
$5.00
$10.00
$5.00
$2.50
$5.00
$10.00
$5.00
$12.50
$2.50
$7.50
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$10.00
$10.00
$7.50
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$7.50
$35.00
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$15.00
$5.00
$2.50
$2.50
$5.00
$1.00
$12.50
$2.50
$15.00
$30.00
$10.00
$7.50
$5.00
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$7.50
$2.50
$2.50
$7.50
$5.00
$5.00
$7.50
$20.00
$25.00
$7.50
$2.50
For a complete list, go to siliconchip.com.au/Shop/8
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT
↳ CPU
↳ LCD ADAPTOR
↳ ACRYLIC LCD BEZEL
RASPBERRY PI PICO BACKPACK
AMPLIFIER CLIPPING DETECTOR
CAPACITOR DISCHARGE WELDER POWER SUPPLY
↳ CONTROL PCB
↳ ENERGY STORAGE MODULE (ESM) PCB
500W AMPLIFIER
MODEL RAILWAY SEMAPHORE CONTROL PCB
↳ SIGNAL FLAG (RED)
AM-FM DDS SIGNAL GENERATOR
SLOT MACHINE
HIGH-POWER BUCK-BOOST LED DRIVER
ARDUINO PROGRAMMABLE LOAD
SPECTRAL SOUND MIDI SYNTHESISER
REV. UNIVERSAL BATTERY CHARGE CONTROLLER
VGA PICOMITE
SECURE REMOTE MAINS SWITCH RECEIVER
↳ TRANSMITTER (1.0MM THICKNESS)
MULTIMETER CALIBRATOR
110dB RF ATTENUATOR
WIDE-RANGE OHMMETER
WiFi PROGRAMMABLE DC LOAD MAIN PCB
↳ DAUGHTER BOARD
↳ CONTROL BOARD
MINI LED DRIVER
NEW GPS-SYNCHRONISED ANALOG CLOCK
BUCK/BOOST CHARGER ADAPTOR
30V 2A BENCH SUPPLY MAIN PCB
↳ FRONT PANEL CONTROL PCB
AUTO TRAIN CONTROLLER
↳ TRAIN CHUFF SOUND GENERATOR
PIC16F18xxx BREAKOUT BOARD (DIP-VERSION)
↳ SOIC-VERSION
AVR64DD32 BREAKOUT BOARD
LC METER MK3
↳ ADAPTOR BOARD
DC TRANSIENT SUPPLY FILTER
TINY LED ICICLE (WHITE)
DUAL-CHANNEL BREADBOARD PSU
↳ DISPLAY BOARD
DIGITAL BOOST REGULATOR
ACTIVE MONITOR SPEAKERS POWER SUPPLY
PICO W BACKPACK
Q METER MAIN PCB
↳ FRONT PANEL (BLACK)
NOUGHTS & CROSSES COMPUTER GAME BOARD
↳ COMPUTE BOARD
ACTIVE MAINS SOFT STARTER
ADVANCED SMD TEST TWEEZERS SET
DIGITAL VOLUME CONTROL POT (SMD VERSION)
↳ THROUGH-HOLE VERSION
MODEL RAILWAY TURNTABLE CONTROL PCB
↳ CONTACT PCB (GOLD-PLATED)
WIDEBAND FUEL MIXTURE DISPLAY (BLUE)
TEST BENCH SWISS ARMY KNIFE (BLUE)
SILICON CHIRP CRICKET
GPS DISCIPLINED OSCILLATOR
SONGBIRD (RED, GREEN, PURPLE or YELLOW)
DUAL RF AMPLIFIER (GREEN or BLUE)
LOUDSPEAKER TESTING JIG
BASIC RF SIGNAL GENERATOR (AD9834)
↳ FRONT PANEL
V6295 VIBRATOR REPLACEMENT PCB SET
DATE
FEB22
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FEB22
MAR22
MAR22
MAR22
MAR22
MAR22
APR22
APR22
APR22
MAY22
MAY22
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MAR23
MAR23
MAR23
APR23
APR23
APR23
MAY23
MAY23
MAY23
JUN23
JUN23
JUN23
JUN23
PCB CODE
01106193
01106196
SC6309
07101221
01112211
29103221
29103222
29103223
01107021
09103221
09103222
CSE211002
08105221
16103221
04105221
01106221
04107192
07107221
10109211
10109212
04107221
CSE211003
04109221
04108221
04108222
18104212
16106221
19109221
14108221
04105221
04105222
09109221
09109222
24110222
24110225
24110223
CSE220503C
CSE200603
08108221
16111192
04112221
04112222
24110224
01112221
07101221
CSE220701
CSE220704
08111221
08111222
10110221
04106221/2
01101231
01101232
09103231
09103232
05104231
04110221
08101231
04103231
08103231
CSE220602A
04106231
CSE221001
CSE220902B
18105231/2
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GPS-Synched Clock
hands stop moving
I recently finished building my
GPS-Synchronised Analog Clock kit
(September 2022 issue; siliconchip.
au/Article/15466). I’ve tried it with a
couple of US-made clock movements.
When I connected the PCB to the
first movement, the onboard LED
flashed as described, and the clock
started on the half-hour. Unfortunately, after about three hours, the
clock stopped, with the second hand
moving back and forth slightly. The
result was the same after only a few
seconds on subsequent attempts to get
it working.
I then tried modifying a second
movement in case the problem was
with the first one. The result was the
same – the LED flashed correctly, but
the clock stopped after a few seconds,
with the second hand moving back
and forth slightly. Same again with
new batteries.
I’ve sent screenshots from my oscilloscope after the onboard LED has
turned off, and the second hand should
be moving but isn’t. The clock output
looks as it should be. Do you have any
suggestions? (D. H., Sorrento, WA)
● Geoff Graham responds: this is
most perplexing. Your oscilloscope
captures show that the firmware is
doing its job perfectly and your test
with two movements should eliminate
a faulty movement. That does not leave
much that could be wrong.
Your oscilloscope capture does
show that the pulse level is rather
low at 1.2V peak-to-peak. With a new
battery, it should be about 1.6V (or
whatever the battery voltage is). So,
one thing to check is the MCP6041
op amp and its associated resistors
(are they the right value, are the solder joints good etc).
Another useful test would be to disconnect the movement. Does the output level then equal the battery voltage? If so, that indicates an excessive
load from the movement.
If that is not the problem, another
siliconchip.com.au
possibility is problems with the movements themselves. There is a faint
chance that the clock motor in your
movements requires a different signal.
If you can restore one of the movements to its original unmodified condition, you could then check that its
output is as expected.
There is also the possibility that
with two identical movements, you
might have accidentally created the
same fault in both (eg, binding gears)
when modifying them.
I’m sorry that I cannot offer anything
more positive. If it helps, hundreds
of these clocks are now running perfectly, so the issue must be specific to
your setup. The question is: what is it?
Motor Speed Controller
kit wanted
I am interested in purchasing a kit
for the Refined Full-Wave Motor Speed
Controller (April 2021; siliconchip.au/
Article/14814) but Jaycar no longer
stocks any kits for motor speed controllers. Altronics has some DC motor
speed controller kits plus the Induction Motor Speed Controller, but none
for brushed mains-powered motors.
Where can I get a kit from? How do
I purchase this article for you? (D. K.,
Wynnum, Qld)
● We can supply a set of the most
critical parts for that project, available
from siliconchip.au/Shop/20/6503
You can get a copy of the magazine
or online access at the same time from
siliconchip.au/Shop/2/5795 (print) or
siliconchip.au/Shop/12/5797 (online).
As far as a speed controller for
brushed mains-powered motors, the
April 2021 design is the one to build.
Ultrasonic Cleaner has
low operating frequency
I built your High Power Ultrasonic
Cleaner (September & October 2020;
siliconchip.au/Series/350) from the
Altronics Kit (Cat K6022) and am using
a 1/3 Gastronorm stainless steel tray.
I was initially using 4L of water and
Australia's electronics magazine
the default output transformer windings but only got about 1.3V at TP1.
I tried increasing the output turns to
63 and decreasing the water volume
to 3L, and I can now get up to 3V at
TP1 at 38.62kHz.
However, after running the troubleshooting (power off for 10s, holding the start and stop buttons down,
turning on and releasing both buttons) and setting the frequency with
the timer pot and pressing stop, once
I start again, the frequency is around
13kHz. This is also the case with the
calibration routine (hold stop, press
start and release both).
I noticed that the calibration routine
happens so fast that I can not detect it
on the oscilloscope; perhaps it is not
running.
Other than that, everything seems
to be working as per the description:
power LEDs, On/Run LED, over-
current LED flashing (at resonance
when standing waves start in the tank)
etc. Any assistance or thoughts on
what else I can try would be greatly
appreciated. (G. G., Knoxfield, Vic)
● We think the transducer resonance point is not being found correctly. The voltage at TP1 is not enough
for resonance. Try running the diagnostics and sweeping the frequencies
to find the maximum current by measuring the voltage at TP1. If this voltage
does not reach about 4.5V, increase the
number of secondary windings. Otherwise, it might go past the resonance
point during the calibration sweep.
If the voltage then goes over 4.8V,
reduce the number of secondary turns
on the transformer. The turns need to
be so that this current overload threshold isn’t reached at resonance. Once
the voltage at TP1 reaches between
4.5V and 4.8V, the values should store
correctly.
Fixing a failed USB
charger
I recently went on a tour and took
a dual USB charger to keep my phone
and laptop charged. Unfortunately, it
July 2023 99
Replacement for Altronics SD card socket
I have just built the GPS Tracker (November 2013; siliconchip.au/Article/5449) but
cannot find the SD card holder anywhere. It is specified as Altronics P5720 but that
has been discontinued. I had no idea there were so many variations of the same
part! I have looked through element14, Amazon, Banggood, Mouser etc, as best I
can. Any help would be appreciated. (P. R., Linden, NSW)
● We also spent some time looking for an alternative but didn’t come up with any
good options. However, another reader recently told us that element14 Cat 2847872
is pretty similar to the discontinued Altronics part (see Mailbag, page 8). He said
he was able to get the GPS Tracker to work using that part.
The main difference is in the location of the WP pin. A thin wire would need to
be added to connect that pin to the PCB pad. We believe the WP pin is not used
for the GPS Tracker, so you can instead connect the WP pin on the micro (pin 7)
directly to the adjacent GND pin (pin 8).
failed, and I had to buy a replacement.
On arriving home, I took the faulty
charger apart and found that all the
parts which could be tested were OK.
My suspicion fell onto an IC labelled
TD6512. It seems to act like the chopper transistor in a switch-mode power
supply.
The problem is that I cannot find a
data sheet for this device, let alone a
supplier. If you or a reader can throw
some light on this device or perhaps
suggest an equivalent that is readily
available, I might be able to repair my
charger instead of throwing it away. I
would be extremely grateful for any
information you can provide. (J. H.,
Nathan, Qld)
● We can’t find much information
on the function of that chip either,
although we think you are right about
its role. We did find a couple of suppliers of replacement chips, and they
are not too expensive:
10 chips: www.aliexpress.com/
item/1005005106477998.html
five chips: www.aliexpress.com/
item/1005005457789422.html
You might just have to buy some of
those, swap it and hope that fixes it.
How to discharge valve
amplifier capacitors
I have wanted a valve guitar amp
for ages and finally bought a kit for
the famous Fender ‘57 Tweed with
the iconic 5E3 Circuit. The originals
of these amps are selling for many
thousands of dollars and kits aren’t
cheap either.
I am very wary of valve-based equipment and the lethal voltages they use
and can store, so I am very carefully
following the kit instructions. My first
question is what voltage to use on the
transformer for Australia.
100
Silicon Chip
I was considering using the 240V
tap, but valve-based equipment might
be more sensitive to varying mains
voltages. Some little birdie in the back
of my mind nags me that we actually
use a 230V AC standard now. The
transformer gives options of 110V,
220V, 230V and 240V.
My second question is on how to
make a “snuffer stick”. The instructions sensibly advise using this device
to get rid of lethal voltages stored after
power down in the capacitors. I could
have purchased one when I bought
the kit but declined, stupidly thinking
that Jaycar might have one, but they
don’t seem to.
My thoughts were a couple of hefty
alligator clips and a big resistor. There
is little information about them on
the amp kit site other than that I can
buy one. What value should the resistor be? Will 1W be enough, or will it
need 5W? As far as I can tell, I will be
discharging 500-600V or more from a
22,500μF capacitor bank.
I don’t want to sweep a pile of ash
from where the amp used to sit, nor
do I want anyone else sweeping away
a pile of ash from where I used to be.
(A. P., Wodonga, Vic)
● The Australian mains voltage for
a single phase is 230V AC with a tolerance range of +10% to -6%. That
means an expected range of 216V AC
to 253V AC. So it would be safer to
select the 240V tap on the transformer
for your amplifier.
A ‘snuffer stick’ could be made
using two series 220kW 1W resistors
housed in an insulated probe. However, a safer solution is to have permanent discharge resistors across the
supply capacitors. That way, they will
automatically discharge over time
when the power is switched off.
You could use two 220kW 1W
Australia's electronics magazine
resistors connected in series with
each other and a high-brightness LED
(anode to positive) across one of the
capacitors. Since the supply capacitors are paralleled via relatively lowvalue resistors (4.7kW and 22kW), only
a single set of discharge resistors is
required. The LED will light until the
capacitor bank voltages have dropped
to safe levels.
Burnt Philips 148
resistor value needed
This long-time reader and subscriber would like to ask a favour.
Inspired by Graham Parslow’s Vintage Radio article in the March 2018
issue on restoring a Philips 148C
valve portable radio (siliconchip.au/
Article/11008), I decided to tackle my
dead 148B.
I found R15, a 2W resistor, burnt and
open-circuit in the HT line. The first
band is red, the others are blackened,
and his circuit diagram does not give
component values. My internet search
has not helped, and the HRSA has yet
to reply to my request for information.
Could you forward this email to Prof.
Parslow in the hope that he may have
a value for R15? (T. B., Kogarah, NSW)
● Prof. Parslow responds: sorry that
you have not had a response to your
enquiry yet. That may be a consequence of my currently being in Bath,
UK. R15 is 2kW 1W in the component
list. I have a love-hate relationship
with Philips tinnie portables; when
they are working, they are excellent.
High voltages from
Valve Power Supply
After recently constructing the
Mains Power Supply for Battery Valve
Radio Sets (August 2017; siliconchip.
au/Article/10751) and following your
testing instructions in the article, the
T1 secondary measures 37.4V AC and
the B outputs are measuring 157V &
111.5V instead of 135V & 90V with
respect to B- under no load. My mains
voltage is 250V AC.
The A & C outputs are within spec,
but the LED constantly flashes. All
components have been checked for
correct value & orientation, and no
faulty solder joints are apparent. If you
could advise me further, it would be
appreciated.
As a long-time subscriber to Silicon
Chip, EA & ETI since 1973, I would
siliconchip.com.au
like to thank all involved. I immensely
enjoyed Leo Simpson’s recent story
about the magazine’s history (August
& September 2022; siliconchip.au/
Series/385). (G. S., Darlington Point,
NSW)
● Ian Robertson responds: the
design value of the “90V” rail is actually around 100V with a 10mA load.
That is because the power supply uses
a readily-available transformer. In any
case, a fresh 90V carbon-zinc B battery
actually delivers around 100V.
Under no load and with 37.4V RMS
(from an unloaded 36V winding), if
you multiply 37.4 by √2 to get the peak
value, then double it, you get 105.72V.
So you are not far off from that. The
discrepancy could be due to your
meter’s response to an RMS reading
of a not-quite-sinusoidal mains waveform. It is not unusual these days with
all manner of power converters feeding the grid.
The “135V” output uses a tripler,
so it will be proportionately higher.
Rest assured that the slightly higher
B voltage will not damage the radio.
It was standard practice in battery/AC
radios to run the B+ a little higher to
improve the performance of the radio.
As long as the A voltage is accurate,
you will be OK. A high A voltage will
shorten the life of the valves.
As for the LED flashing, the only
explanation I can think of for that
is that you have accidentally used a
flashing LED in place of a normal one!
There is nothing in that circuit that
could possibly flash the LED...
Do not power Jacob’s
Ladder from the mains
I encountered something strange
the other day when using the Jacob’s
Ladder I built recently (February 2013
issue; siliconchip.au/Article/2369).
The battery I was using was starting to
go flat, so I hooked up the lab power
supply to charge the battery directly
to the battery while the coil was still
running.
I thought the power supply would
provide enough additional kick with
the battery to keep the Jacob’s Ladder
running. It worked at first, but after a
few seconds, I noticed the voltage on
the power supply was fluctuating and
had dropped to 11V, then the whole
thing went dead.
At first, I thought the PIC had died,
but after probing with the DSO, there
was still a good waveform on pin 9.
That can only mean that I have blown
the IGBT somehow. It seems very
strange because the unit was only
drawing a couple of amps, and the
IGBT is rated way beyond anything I
was throwing at it.
I ordered a replacement IGBT, but
what might have happened? I want
to avoid blowing it up again, so I will
only be running it on battery power,
but have I come across another reason
why Leo suggested running it off battery power only? (M. A., Kenthurst,
NSW)
● Yes, the article warns against
powering the Jacob’s Ladder from any
mains supply because our experience
is that it usually damages the supply
and/or the device itself due to high
voltage spikes being coupled back into
the power supply.
Usually, an IGBT fails as a short
between the emitter and collector,
which typically causes the gate to have
a low resistance to the emitter. A resistance check can easily verify if that has
happened. Since the gate drive waveform is good, the gate would appear
to be undamaged.
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siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2023 101
As an alternative to IGBT damage,
the insulating washer between the case
and IGBT could have been punctured.
Then the fuse connected between the
coil primary and battery could have
blown. Supply to the remainder of the
circuit is not via this fuse.
However, we think the most likely
situation is that the coil was driven
with too high a voltage, the insulation
broke down and it has been damaged.
That could result in an open-circuit
primary winding. The primary resistance is typically under 4W, so you
should measure it with a multimeter.
If the primary winding is OK, you
should see the collector waveform of
Q1 pulling the coil low during the
dwell period and the voltage rising
above 300V when the dwell is released
(make sure to use an oscilloscope and
probes rated above 300V to check).
Arc-over inside the coil can happen if the gap between electrodes on
the Jacob’s ladder is too wide. If the
primary is open-circuit, perhaps the
dwell setting needs to be reduced.
Mosfet is switching on
by itself
I have built a power supply that
powers on two external hard disks
when a computer is switched on.
When the computer starts up, the
device supplies 12V DC to the first
hard disk, then a few seconds later
(after the startup current settles), the
second hard disk is powered.
The power is switched with Mosfet
transistors controlled by a PICAXE PIC
microcontroller (powered by 5V DC).
As soon as the first drive is powered
on, the second Mosfet immediately
switches on without any voltage at its
gate (0V). Very strange! It should turn
on a few seconds later, when the PIC
applies 5V to its gate. The PIC outputs
are connected to the Mosfet gates via
330W resistors to limit the PIC pin currents. The gate is also tied to ground
with a 10kW resistor.
The circuit behaves correctly if the
loads (hard disks) are not connected. I
have LEDs with series resistors across
outputs to show the on/off state of
each.
I don’t understand how the Mosfet
can turn on without gate voltage. (F.
C., Maroubra, NSW)
● There are a few possible causes:
If a Mosfet has a rapidly increasing
drain voltage, drain-gate capacitance
can cause the gate voltage to be pulled
up, momentarily switching the Mosfet on. A low gate drive impedance
or added gate-source capacitance can
help to prevent this.
It could also be that parasitic inductance or capacitance on the PCB is coupling a signal into the Mosfet’s gate circuit from elsewhere, especially when
high current flows (eg, the startup current for the first hard disk).
If the second Mosfet is switching on
and staying on, even with 0V at its gate,
that suggests it is faulty or there is a bad
connection somewhere. Unless it’s a
depletion-mode Mosfet (which seems
unlikely), if the gate-source voltage is
0V, it should definitely be off and not
conduct any current.
Note that if the load is connected to
the source instead of the drain, it will
be powered via the parasitic sourcedrain diode. However, in that case, it
would be on all the time.
We also wonder if high currents
through your circuit could be inducing voltages in or near the PIC, causing it to malfunction.
If you disconnect the PIC from the
Mosfet and tie its gate directly to its
source, it should never switch on. If
it doesn’t, that tells you that either
the PIC is driving its gate high when
it shouldn’t, or it cannot keep the gate
low even though it is trying to. If it
still switches on, the Mosfet is faulty
or misconnected.
Controlling treadmill
motor speed
I have a motor salvaged from an old
treadmill that I would like to adapt to
a new use. Has Silicon Chip ever published a design for a mains-powered
speed controller suitable for controlling a DC motor of the type used in
some exercise treadmills? My online
research suggests that many treadmills
use DC motors rated at around 200V.
Looking at my Silicon Chip magazine collection, I found several articles
on constructing speed controllers for
DC motors, but none were close to my
requirement.
The treadmill motor I have is
marked as follows:
• DC Motor – 180V, 4A
• 1HP, 4000RPM, CW rotation
Unfortunately, I do not have the
original motor controller. (P. B., Macarthur, ACT)
● We have not published a suitable
controller for treadmill motors. However, modifying our low-voltage DC
Motor Controller (January & February
2017; siliconchip.au/Series/309) for
higher voltage operation would be possible by using Mosfets with a higher
voltage rating.
The STP12NK30Z (300V 9A)
should be suitable. Clamp diode D1
(IDP30E65D1) used in the project is
already rated at 650V, so it would not
need to change. Those Mosfets are
available from Mouser at siliconchip.
au/link/abl4
continued on page 104
Raspberry Pi Pico W BackPack
The new Raspberry Pi Pico W provides WiFi functionality, adding
to the long list of features. This easy-to-build device includes a
3.5-inch touchscreen LCD and is programmable in BASIC, C or
MicroPython, making it a good general-purpose controller.
This kit comes with everything needed to build a Pico W BackPack module, including
components for the optional microSD card, IR receiver and stereo audio output.
$85 + Postage ∎ Complete Kit (SC6625)
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/20/6625
The circuit and assembly instructions were published in the January 2023 issue: siliconchip.au/Article/15616
102
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
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WARNING!
Silicon Chip magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such projects
should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be carried
out according to the instructions in the articles.
When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with mains AC
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you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability for damages should anyone
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siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2023 103
You would need to power the main
controller section from 12V and the
motor driver section separately from
a suitable 180V supply. You could
use a 500VA+ mains transformer with
a 120V AC secondary (or 60V + 60V
in series), then rectify and filter the
output. Check that the transformer
can handle the motor startup current,
which likely will be well over 4A.
If building this project, please read
the relevant notes & errata in the 2017
PDF at siliconchip.au/Articles/Errata
Displays for 2.5GHz
Frequency Counter
I am having trouble sourcing the
four-digit, 7-segment LED displays
used in the 2.5GHz 12-Digit Frequency
Counter (December 2012 & January
2013; siliconchip.au/Series/21). They
are specified in the parts list as coming
from Futurlec, but they have no stock
of the blue type.
They can offer me a red type but
the forward voltage is only 2.4V maximum at 20mA. The blue variety is
rated at 3.2V <at> 20mA but can handle
4V maximum.
Advertising Index
Altronics.................................27-30
Dave Thompson........................ 103
DigiKey Electronics....................... 3
Emona Instruments.................. IBC
Hare & Forbes............................. 13
Jaycar................... IFC, 9, 11, 14-15,
....................................43, 67, 90-91
Keith Rippon Kit Assembly....... 103
I have some similar red displays
from AliExpress rated at 2V maximum
<at> 20mA. Should I use the AliExpress
parts, go with the alternative Futurlec displays, or wait for the blue ones
to come back into stock? It could be
a long wait.
Changing the resistors to suit the
alternative displays might be a solution, but what should their values be? I
have built the main board but the display is holding me up from testing it.
(E. B., Meadow Springs, WA)
● Readers asking where to find parts
that have been discontinued or are out
of stock is becoming something of a
theme. While Futurlec doesn’t have
stock of the displays we used, they are
still available from other vendors. For
example, AliExpress items:
• 1005005352398426
• 1005001606190533
• 1005003246695690
You could use displays with a different colour if they are easier to get.
Since, as you wrote, the red displays
will have a lower voltage drop at the
recommended segment current level
of 20mA, we suggest replacing the
eight 47W series segment resistors in
the counter display board with 150W
resistors to be on the safe side.
The resistors concerned are at the
upper left on the display PCB, looking from the front.
PIR Mains Timer
wiring question
I have built your February 2008
PIR-Triggered Mains Switch project
(siliconchip.au/Article/1751) from a
Jaycar kit (KC5455). I am using Jaycar’s
XC4444 PIR module. Unfortunately,
I’m a bit stuck on this last step when
connecting the PIR to the 3-way terminal block. The instructions state
that I need to put a link between the
ground on the PIR and the contact of
the normally-closed relay; could you
please elaborate on this?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. (E. C. H., via email)
● Before we get to wiring up the
PIR module, we’d better check that
it’s compatible with the PIR sensor
shown in the article. That one had two
normally-closed (NC) switch outputs,
ALARM and TAMPER. They were connected in series with one end to circuit
GND so that they would usually hold
the input low, but a resistor would pull
it high if either switch opened.
We downloaded the manual for
Jaycar’s XC4444 PIR module from
their website, and it appears to have
a much simpler arrangement with just
three terminals: Vcc, OUT and GND.
The OUT pin idles low but goes high
when the sensor detects movement
(presumably to Vcc). Therefore, this
appears compatible since it is also
low when untriggered and goes high
when triggered.
The specifications for that module
on the Jaycar website say it will operate
from 5-20V, and our circuit is powered
from 12V, so it should work.
The connections for the 3-way terminal block are as follows:
• Top terminal (+12V): goes to Vcc
on the PIR detector
• Middle terminal (IN): goes to
OUT on the PIR detector
• Bottom terminal (GND): goes to
GND on the PIR detector
Make sure you don’t get the +12V
and GND connections mixed up. SC
LEDsales................................... 103
LD Electronics........................... 103
Microchip Technology......... OBC, 7
Mouser Electronics....................... 4
SC Pico W BackPack................ 102
Silicon Chip Breadboard PSU... 66
Silicon Chip PDFs on USB....... 101
Silicon Chip Shop................ 89, 98
Silicon Chip Subscriptions........ 77
The Loudspeaker Kit.com.......... 97
Tronixlabs.................................. 103
Wagner Electronics....................... 6
104
Silicon Chip
Mgazine Errata and Sale Date for the Next Issue
Lazer Security........................... 103
Loudspeaker Testing Jig, June 2023: the 1kW resistor connecting to
LK1 that filters the phantom power for the microphone should be 100W,
not 1kW. It might work with 1kW, but it will depend on the microphone.
Also, because pin 2 of XLR socket CON10 (“HOT”) connects to the INsignal and pin 3 (“COLD”) connects to IN+, the microphone phase will be
inverted. To fix this, swap the wires to pins 2 & 3 of header CON11 on the
PCB. Finally, the labels of transistors Q1 & Q2 in the circuit diagram (Fig.3)
have been swapped, but they are correct on the PCB overlay and PCB.
Vintage Radio, Astor APN, May 2023: there were some errors in the
published circuit diagram for the set, mainly regarding the connection of
capacitors #35, #36, #38 and resistors #6 & #10. The circuit diagram has
been corrected in the online version of the magazine and has been made
visible in the free preview of that issue on our website.
Next Issue: the August 2023 issue is due on sale in newsagents by Thursday,
July 27th. Expect postal delivery of subscription copies in Australia between
July 26th and August 11th.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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