This is only a preview of the March 2023 issue of Silicon Chip. You can view 37 of the 104 pages in the full issue, including the advertisments. For full access, purchase the issue for $10.00 or subscribe for access to the latest issues. Articles in this series:
Items relevant to "The Digital Potentiometer":
Items relevant to "Model Railway Turntable":
Items relevant to "Active Mains Soft Starter, Part 2":
Items relevant to "Advanced Test Tweezers, Part 2":
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Active Mains
Soft Starter
Part Two by John Clarke
Our Active Mains Soft Starter, introduced last month, is ideal for eliminating
the switch-on kick from power tools rated up to 750W. You can also use it
to avoid high inrush currents for stationary equipment that can trip circuit
breakers or wear out switches. This article covers the assembly, testing,
adjustment and calibration of this new Soft Starter.
T
he Active Mains Soft Starter uses a
combination of an NTC thermistor
and a Mosfet to provide an adjustable
soft-starting period. Notably, the Mosfet means that the thermistor experiences little heating, so repeated starts
(within reason) do not degrade the
effectiveness of the Soft Starter.
Both the Mosfet and the thermistor
are bypassed by a relay after soft starting so that there is very little power
loss or heating within the Soft Starter,
even with a high load current draw. It
is housed in a conveniently compact
17.1 × 12.1 × 5.5cm plastic enclosure
with an IEC mains input socket, GPO
output and three optional neon indicators to show what it is doing.
Because it monitors the load current,
it is automatically activated whenever
the load appliance is switched on,
even if the Soft Starter is already powered. That means you can use the trigger or switch on power tools to activate
them. Or, you can simply switch it on
at the wall, which is handy if you have
multiple devices connected to the output (eg, via a power board).
Having described what it does and
how it works, let’s move on to building it.
Construction
Most of the parts mount on a double-
sided, plated-through PCB coded
10110221 that measures 159 × 109mm.
Once assembled, it is housed within a
polycarbonate or ABS enclosure measuring 171 × 121 × 55mm. The only
off-board parts are the IEC mains input
socket, GPO mains output socket and
three neon indicators.
Fig.7 shows the parts layout on the
PCB. Begin by installing the surface-
mounting dual op amp (IC2). You will
need a soldering iron with a fine tip
(or a regular tip and some flux paste), a
magnifier (if you do not have excellent
Warning: Mains Voltage
The entire circuit of the Active Soft Starter floats at mains potential and could be
lethal should you make contact with it. Don’t assume that because we use isolation
between different parts of the circuit that some parts are safe to touch – they are
not! The isolation between parts of the circuit is to allow for the differing voltage
potentials in parts of the circuit rather than for safety.
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Silicon Chip
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vision) and good lighting.
Solder the IC to its PCB pads by
firstly placing it with the pin 1 locating
dot to the top left and aligning the IC
leads to the corresponding pads. Then
solder a corner pin and check that it
is still aligned correctly. If it needs to
be realigned, re-melt the soldered connection and gently nudge the IC into
alignment.
When you’re sure it’s correct, solder all the IC pins. Any solder that
runs between and bridges two pins
can be removed with solder wicking
braid (adding extra flux paste is recommended). Note that pins 6 and 7 are
joined on the PCB, so a bridge between
them won’t matter.
Fit the resistors next. They have
colour-coded bands indicating the
values (see Table 1), but it’s best to
use a digital multimeter (DMM) to
check each resistor before soldering
it in place. Three resistor types are
used; one is a 1kW 5W wirewound,
six are 1W types, and the remainder
are smaller 1/2W resistors. Mount the
5W resistor with a gap of about 1mm
from the PCB to allow air to circulate.
Diodes D1-D3 and zener diodes
ZD1-ZD3 are next on the list. Ensure
they are orientated correctly and the
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Fig.7: assembly is
straightforward,
with most parts
mounting on the
PCB, as shown
here. Q1 has no
mounting hole
and is adhered to the PCB
using double-sided adhesive
thermal tape. Because of
supply constraints, we have
designed the board to accept
two different types of current
transformer, with either
two or three pins. Note that
the three
TVSs are
bidirectional,
so their
orientations
are not
critical.
types are not mixed up before soldering their leads.
TVS1-TVS3 can also be installed
now. These are bi-directional (AC)
devices, so they can be installed either
way around on the PCB. Make sure
the correct type number for each TVS
is inserted in the specified location.
Mount the remaining ICs, taking
care to get the correct IC in each place
and with the proper orientation. We
used a socket for IC1, although you
could solder it directly to the PCB,
assuming it has already been programmed. IC3 and IC4 both have six
pins, so don’t get them mixed up. On
the PCB, pin 5 of IC4 has only a tiny
pad to provide an increased creepage
distance between pins 4 and 6.
You can fit the capacitors next,
of which there are four types: the
mains X2-rated capacitors, electrolytic capacitors, MKT polyester and a
multi-layer ceramic. The electrolytic
capacitors need to be orientated correctly since they are polarised, while
the others can be installed either way
around.
Note that the 100nF capacitors could
be labelled as 104 (10pF × 104), while
the 4.7nF capacitor could be labelled
472 (47pF × 102) and the 1μF ceramic
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capacitor could be labelled as 105
(10pF × 105).
Next, install potentiometer VR1
and thermistor NTC1. Bridge rectifier
BR1 is next; its positive lead is spaced
wider than the remaining leads, so it
will only fit in one way.
Mosfet Q1 can also be fitted now.
Bend its leads by 90° about 5mm from
the package and secure the metal tab
to the PCB using double-sided thermal transfer tape before soldering the
leads. Because the tracks are thin near
the pads for the Mosfet leads, build
up their exposed copper tracks on
the underside of the PCB with solder.
Install CON1 to CON4 next, as
well as the current transformer, T1.
Depending on which type of transformer you have, it might have two or
three leads. The PCB will accommodate either type.
The next step is to install relay RLY1
with its coil terminals toward CON4.
The relay is secured using 15mm-long
M3 screws and nuts, with each screw
inserted from the underside of the
PCB.
Winding transformer T2
The windings on the toroidal ferrite core for T2 are made with 0.25mm
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diameter enamelled copper wire, as
shown in Fig.8. The primary has 10
turns, while the secondary has 48
turns. Cut a 125mm length for the primary and 1m for the secondary and
wind on each side-by-side; the winding directions are unimportant. The
windings must be separated at least
3mm at each end.
Mount the finished transformer on
the PCB with two cable ties that both
secure the toroid and keep the primary
and secondary windings separated, so
make sure they go between the windings. The third cable tie holds down
the toroid in the middle of the secondary winding.
Fig.8: wind T2 as shown here,
keeping the windings neat and close
together and ensuring at least 3mm of
separation between the primary and
secondary at either end.
March 2023 69
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
Fig.9: these are the required cut-outs
in the side of the case and the lid.
You can download this diagram as
a PDF from the Silicon Chip website
and print it to use as a template. Be
careful making the IEC cut-out and
neon holes as if they are too large,
the parts will fall out. Try to avoid
the GPO cut-out coming too close to
the separate hole as, if the plastic in
between is thin, it could break.
Pass the primary and secondary
wires through the PCB pads and strip
off the insulation at all four ends to
allow the wires to be soldered. The
insulation can be burnt off with a hot
soldering iron, by holding a blob of
hot solder over the wire ends for a few
seconds. Otherwise, you can scrape
the insulation off with a sharp hobby
or craft knife.
Final assembly
The soft starter PCB is secured to the
base of the enclosure using 6mm-long
M3 machine screws that screw into
the integral brass inserts. But before
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attaching the PCB, the IEC connector
cut-out will need to be made in the side
of the enclosure. You will also need to
drill holes in the lid for the GPO socket
and neon indicators.
Fig.9 is a template for the required
cut-outs. You can photocopy it from
the magazine at 1:1 scale or download
a PDF from the Silicon Chip website
and print it out (make sure to print it
at “actual size”).
The large cut-outs for the mains
GPO socket and IEC connector can be
made by drilling a series of small holes
around the inside perimeter, knocking out the centre piece and filing the
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outline to a smooth finish.
If you use Jaycar neon indicators,
the holes must be sized so that they
stay clipped in place when inserted
into the cut-out. So take care with the
hole size; the inside of the hole will
need a slight chamfer to reduce the
panel thickness so that the clips can
spring outward to secure each neon.
The Altronics neon indicators are
secured with a nut threaded onto the
plastic housing instead of clips.
Once the drilling and filing are complete, install the IEC connector. The
PCB can then be placed inside the case,
but don’t secure it just yet.
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Fig.10: there are
two different
versions of the
front panel
artwork that you
can download,
either with
the neon holes
marked (as
shown here) or
without, if you’d
prefer not to fit
them.
First, the IEC connector must be
secured using countersunk Nylon M3
× 10mm screws, although you can use
metal nuts. You may need to cut away
some of the internal ribs in the case to
allow the nuts to fit as we had to for
the prototype (you can just see this in
the photo overleaf).
The Nylon screws are essential
as they avoid the possibility of the
screws becoming live (at mains voltage) should a mains wire inside the
enclosure come adrift and contact a
screw holding the IEC connector.
Before attaching the mains GPO and
neon indicators, you can print out the
front panel label shown in Fig.10. You
can also download it as a PDF from
our website. Details on making a front
panel label can be found at siliconchip.
au/Help/FrontPanels
The download includes two versions of the front panel. One does not
have the three neon indicator holes,
and is included if you prefer not to
use them. The wiring is also simplified
when not utilising neon indicators.
All wiring must be run as shown
in Fig.11, using mains-rated cable. Be
sure to use 10A cable for the thicker
wires shown in Fig.11; brown wire
must be used for the Active wiring
while the blue wire is used for Neutral. Green/yellow-striped wire is used
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for the Earth wiring only, and the
Earth lead from the IEC socket must
go straight to the GPO.
The thinner wires shown (without
a red asterisk) can use lighter-duty
7.5A mains wire, or use 10A wiring
throughout if you prefer.
Be sure to insulate all the connections with heatshrink tubing for safety
and cable tie the wires as shown, to
prevent any wire breakages coming
adrift. Use 10mm diameter heatshrink
around the bodies of the neon indicators, 5mm for the wires to the IEC connector (red or brown for Active, blue or
black for Neutral and green for Earth)
and 3mm for the wires to the relay
(similar colour coding).
Note how the relay contact connections are made using 4.8mm spade
The relay
wires are cabletied to other mains wires
after installation in the case.
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Fig.11: be very careful to run all the wiring as shown here, including using the colours
shown, adding all the required insulation and the cable ties as indicated. All wires can
be run using 10A mains-rated cable, or you can use 7.5A-rated cable for the thinner wires
shown (without the red asterisks) if desired.
crimp lugs while the relay coil wires
are soldered. Try to avoid melting
the surrounding relay plastic housing while doing that, and be sure to
insulate the joints afterwards with
heatshrink tubing. The wires to the
IEC socket are also soldered and then
insulated.
Secure the Active and Neutral leads
to the GPO using cable ties that pass
through the holes in its moulding.
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Silicon Chip
Also, use neutral-cure silicone (eg, roof
& gutter silicone) to cover the Active
bus piece that connects the Active pin
to the fuse at the rear of the IEC connector as it is live, and there is no good
reason for it to be exposed.
Take great care when making the
connections to the mains socket (GPO).
In particular, be sure to run the leads
to their correct terminals (the GPO has
the A, N and E clearly labelled) and do
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the screws up tightly so that the leads
are held securely. Similarly, ensure
that the wires to the screw terminals
are firmly secured.
Testing
Always attach the lid using at least
two screws at diagonal locations before
switching on the power.
Before applying power, check your
wiring carefully and make sure that
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setting only needs to be done if the soft
start circuit does not correctly detect
when the appliance is off.
To set this offset, with the power off
and unplugged from the wall, rotate
VR1 fully clockwise. No appliance
should be plugged into the Soft Starter’s GPO outlet. Attach the lid, power
it up and wait a few seconds before
switching it off. This will let it store
the DC voltage produced by IC2 when
no current is measured.
Unplug it, remove the lid and rotate
VR1 back from fully clockwise to the
desired soft-start period. As mentioned earlier, somewhere mid-way
will give a suitable soft-start duration
of one or two seconds for most situations. However, other periods are
available depending on the appliance
requirements.
Choosing the soft-start period
The completed unit just before the lid is attached. The numerous cable ties
mean that even if a wire breaks off, it can’t make contact and damage other
parts of the circuit or create a shock hazard.
all mains connections are covered in
heatshrink tubing, and the wiring is
cable tied. Then install the 10A fuse
inside the fuse holder and verify that
IC1 is plugged into its socket and correctly orientated.
Should you forget to install IC1
before powering up, the 4.7nF capacitor at the pin 4 connection could be
left with a remnant voltage when you
switch off the power. This can destroy
IC1 when it is plugged in. So if you
power it up without IC1 plugged in,
wait for a few minutes with power off
and check that the voltage between
pins 4 and 8 is less than 1V before
plugging in the IC.
Typically, VR1 would be set to midtravel for a nominal one-second softstart period. If set full anti-clockwise,
VR1 gives a 9.5s soft-start period while
near full-clockwise gives a half-second
soft start period.
Calibration
Rotating VR1 fully clockwise has the
soft starter enter another mode. This is
used to measure the voltage from the
precision rectifier when no appliance
is connected. This is the offset voltage
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that needs to be taken into consideration when detecting whether there is
current flow or not when an appliance
is detected.
Typically, the output of IC2a (the
full-wave rectified current waveform)
will not sit at the negative supply at
pin 4 with no load, but will be slightly
positive. This offset can be measured
and taken into account by IC1. This
The available periods are 9.5, 5.5,
2.0, 1.0, 0.625 or 0.5 seconds, adjusted
using VR1. You can use the slower
rates for soft-starting capacitive loads
if you are not concerned about how
long it will take to power up the load.
The 9.5s startup period is probably too
long for most cases, but a 5.5s period
is a good option.
For power tools, the best period
depends on the time the tool takes to
get up to full speed and the acceptable
amount of movement the tool makes
during starting.
A shorter duration will produce
more tool movement than a longer
duration but will let you get to work
faster. If the period is longer than necessary, you will need to wait longer for
SC
the tool to be ready to use.
The finished
Active Mains
Soft Starter
is easy to
use, just plug
your desired
appliance
into the
GPO on the
front panel
and then
connect the
Soft Starter
to mains
power via
the IEC
plug on its
side.
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March 2023 73
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