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SILICON CHIP
Mini Projects #003 – by Tim Blythman
Thermal Fan
Control
This project demonstrates how two
modules can be combined with a bit
of extra circuitry to do a useful job.
The result is a circuit that will power
a load, like a fan, when the ambient
temperature exceeds a set threshold.
T
he fans in practically all modern
desktop PCs are thermally controlled. This means that they are only
turned on when needed, usually when
the PC’s internal temperature gets
too high. The fans can turn on when
the temperature rises, moving hot air
and replacing it with cooler air. Some
PCs can even run the fans at different
speeds, depending on the temperature.
Older PCs always had their fans running at full speed. Being able to control
them means that noise is kept down
and the wear and tear on the fans is
minimised.
This project has a similar function; it provides automatic control
of a fan based on temperature and
can be adjusted to work at different
temperatures, but it doesn’t require a
microcontroller. It could be useful, for
example, to power a ventilation fan in
a room if the temperature inside that
room gets too high.
We use the Jaycar XC4494 Temperature Sensor Module to sense the ambient temperature and the Jaycar XC4488
Mosfet Module to switch the fan (or
other low-voltage DC load) on and off.
The Temperature Sensor Module produces an analog voltage that
depends on the temperature. We apply
that voltage to a simple comparator chip that produces a high or low
level output, depending on whether
the analog voltage is above or below
a set level.
Circuit details
Fig.1 shows the resulting circuit.
Note the two boxes that correspond
to the two modules. The circuitry
Parts List – Thermal Fan Control (JMP003)
1 Temperature Sensor Module [Jaycar XC4494]
1 Mosfet Module [Jaycar XC4488]
1 12V DC fan [Jaycar YX2512 or similar]
1 12V 500mA plug pack or other 12V power source [Jaycar MP3011]
1 17-row breadboard or protoboard [Jaycar PB8820 or HP9570]
1 2.1mm DC socket [Jaycar PS0526 or PA3713]
1 10kW potentiometer (VR1) [Jaycar RP7510]
1 LM311 comparator IC, DIP-8 (IC1) [Jaycar ZL3311]
1 100nF 100V MKT capacitor (C1) [Jaycar RM7125]
1 100μF 25V electrolytic capacitor (C2) [Jaycar RE6140]
1 220W 1/2W axial resistor (R1) [Jaycar RR0556]
1 1MW 1/2W axial resistor (R2) [Jaycar RR0644]
1 8-pin DIL IC socket (optional, for IC1) [Jaycar PI6500 or PI6452]
Assorted breadboard wire/jumper wires [Jaycar PB8850 or WC6027]
62
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
and components
in those boxes
come pre-soldered
to the module when
you buy it.
One advantage of this analog
approach is that we can run all the circuitry from 12V DC rather than needing to generate a lower voltage to run a
microcontroller. That reduces the necessary parts and simplifies the design.
The parts we’re using will happily run
from 5V up to 18V.
IC1 is a comparator. In simple terms,
when the voltage at + pin (pin 2) is
higher than the – pin (pin 3), output
pin 7 ‘floats’ and is pulled up to 12V
by current from the 220W resistor. The
rest of the time, when the + voltage is
lower than the – voltage, IC1 internally
connects pin 7 to pin 1, where pin 1
is at 0V (ground).
That means the output is 12V when
the + voltage is higher than the other,
or at 0V when the + voltage is lower.
By connecting the pin 7 output to
the SIG line of the Mosfet Module, the
Mosfet switches on when the voltage
at pin 7 is 12V, and when the Mosfet
is on, it powers the fan.
VR1 is a potentiometer that provides
our voltage/temperature setpoint; the
wiper voltage can be adjusted between
0V and 12V by rotating the shaft on
top. This adjustable voltage is applied
to pin 2 of IC1. Thus, IC1 compares
the VR1 setting to the voltage from
the Temperature Sensor Module, so
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have delayed the hysteresis, making
it much less effective, as we found in
one of our early prototypes!
By reversing the connections to
the trimpot and Temperature Sensor
module and swapping those inputs,
the output of IC1 behaves the same.
However, the hysteresis problem is
solved, as no capacitor is connected
to the trimpot wiper.
The remaining components are
100nF and 100μF supply bypass
capacitors that stabilise the circuit
by smoothing out any changes to the
incoming supply voltage.
Top left: the small component with
the black bead is a 10kW negative
temperature coefficient (NTC)
thermistor. That means its resistance
is close to 10kW at 25°C, decreasing
as the temperature rises. Jaycar’s
RN3440 is an NTC thermistor similar
to the module’s onboard one.
Top centre: the Mosfet Module consists
of the components shown in the right-hand box
in Fig.1 and can be replaced by their equivalents if you want
to build a version without modules. Jaycar’s ZT2468 (IRF1405 Mosfet) is
similar to the IRF520.
Right: any 12V brushless DC fan will do for this project. We have used the Jaycar
YX2512.
adjusting VR1’s screw lets you set the
temperature at which the output will
switch.
Hang on – isn’t it backwards?
While the S pin of the Temperature
Sensor Module connects to pin 3 of IC1,
its V pin is connected to ground (0V),
and the G pin is connected to the 12V
supply. That might seem backwards,
but the Temperature Sensor module
is just a group of passive components,
none of which care about polarity, so
we’re free to connect it this way.
When wired this way, an increasing temperature causes a decreasing
voltage at the S pin. VR1 is also wired
‘backwards’, so that turning the screw
clockwise reduces the wiper voltage,
to match the behaviour of the Temperature Sensor Module.
The reason for doing it this way is
to allow us to provide predictable hysteresis. That is the purpose of the 1MW
resistor. When IC1’s pin 7 is high, some
current flows through the 1MW resistor, raising the potentiometer wiper
voltage slightly.
Since VR1 is wired backwards, this
is the same as reducing the setpoint
slightly, meaning that the temperature has to drop a little after the fan
switches on before it switches off. That
stops it from ‘juddering’ on and off rapidly when the ambient temperature is
hovering near the switching setpoint.
If we had wired the circuit up the
‘normal’ way, the hysteresis current
would have to be applied to the input
connecting to the S terminal of the
Temperature Sensor Module. The filter capacitor in that module would
Construction
We built our prototype on a PB8820
solderless breadboard. Still, the design
is well-suited to the HP9570 prototyping board, which has an identical
layout and will provide a more robust
and permanent result. We soldered
short lengths of wire to the modules
to make for a neat layout. If you prefer
not to solder, the circuit will work with
jumper wires but may not be as tidy.
In our photos, all red wires connect
to the 12V supply and all black wires
go to 0V. Use the photos and circuit
diagram to wire yours up like ours.
We placed the 1MW resistor on top
of IC1, as it connects between pins 2
& 7. Also, the 220W resistor has had
its lead bent by 180° so that it can be
wired to two adjacent rows, connecting to both pins 7 and 8 of IC1.
We used a soldered DC socket to
supply power, but you could use the
Jaycar PA3713 screw terminal version
if you prefer. Leave the fan off for testing, since the Mosfet Module has an
indicator LED that shows whether it
is on or off.
We used a 12V DC plugpack for
Fig.1: this simple circuit uses a comparator (IC1) to compare a setpoint (from VR1) with the voltage from a Temperature
Sensor Module (on the left). The 1MW resistor feeds some voltage back from the comparator’s output, providing hysteresis
that stops the fan from turning on and off rapidly if the temperature is near the setpoint.
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May 2024 63
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The potentiometer at upper left sets a voltage that is compared to the voltage
from the Temperature Sensor Module. If the temperature is higher than that
set by the potentiometer, the fan is switched on by activating the Mosfet
Module to supply 12V. We have included some close-ups of the wiring.
power, but a 9V battery (connected
using a PH9251 battery snap to 2.1mm
plug) should be fine for initial testing. If you start with VR1 fully anti-
clockwise, the LED should be on initially. It should go off at some point
as you rotate VR1 clockwise.
If the LED works in reverse or
isn’t switching on and off as VR1 is
adjusted, check your wiring before
connecting the fan.
Turn VR1 anti-clockwise until the
LED is on, then turn it back until it just
goes off. If you now touch the Temperature Sensor Module’s thermistor, the
LED should switch on as the thermistor registers a higher temperature
(assuming the ambient temperature is
lower than your body temperature!).
After a while (depending on the settings and ambient temperature), the
LED will switch off. In that case, all
is well, and you can connect the fan
and adjust VR1 for a suitable switch-on
threshold.
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That would be easiest to do if the
thermistor were exposed to a temperature close to your desired threshold, eg, by heating a bit of metal and
then holding it against the thermistor. Let it stabilise, then adjust VR1
until the fan just switches on at that
temperature.
If a DC motor is connected to the
output (rather than a BLDC fan), a
back-EMF quenching diode needs to
be connected across it to avoid damaging the Mosfet at switch-off.
Summary
The comparator was one of the first
integrated circuits, appearing around
60 years ago. Even modern microcontrollers often include one or more
among their internal peripherals. This
project is a great example of how a simple chip like a comparator can interface to analog and digital modules,
and perform a role often delegated to
more complex devices.
SC
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