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Mini Projects #004 – by Tim Blythman
SILICON CHIP
Wired Infrared
Remote Extender
IR (infrared) remote controls have been around for about 50 years, with TV being one of
the first major applications. They are used in many fields, so components and modules
for IR remote control systems are widely available. Here’s how to use them to build an IR
remote control extender.
S
ometimes an IR remote doesn’t
have enough ‘reach’, especially
if the receiving device is in another
room, around a corner or blocked by
furniture. The Wired IR Extender is a
simple fix for that problem; it can easily be built with just a few components.
Rather than transmitting the binary
ones and zeroes of IR codes as the presence or lack of an IR signal, the IR beam
is modulated (turned on and off) at
around 38kHz and further encoded to
simplify reception and error checking.
The modulation helps to make IR
signals immune to interference from
things like sunlight and fluorescent
tubes, since they do not modulate their
IR output near 38kHz.
A simple design
Thanks to the technology packed
into modern electronics modules, we
can create the Wired IR Extender with
a couple of simple modules and a few
other bits and pieces. The main components are the IR Receiver Module
and an IR LED Module.
While it might appear that we could
simply connect one to the other, the
IR Receiver Module demodulates
the 38kHz IR carrier, but the IR LED
Module has no internal means of
reapplying the modulation. So we
need some extra circuitry to add back
the necessary modulation.
Fig.1 shows the resulting circuit.
The 100μF and 100nF bypass capacitors help to reject noise on the 5V
supply rail and keep its voltage stable.
The IR Receiver Module contains the
parts in the box on the left. The part
labelled IR1 could be substituted by
a separate component like Jaycar’s
ZD1952 IR receiver.
The output (at the S pin) usually
sits near 5V, but when an IR signal
around 38kHz is detected, this pin
goes low, lighting up the LED on the
The Wired IR Extender is built on a
small prototyping board, which can
easily be put into a small Jiffy box
for permanent use. You can run two
wires (eg, a figure-8 cable) to situate
the Transmitter Module wherever it
needs to be.
siliconchip.com.au
May 2024 65
220Ω
10kΩ The lines drawn on top of the board
2 x 1kΩ
module. That is called an activelow output.
The 555 timer based circuit
turns the active low signal from the
IR Receiver Module into a 38kHz
modulated active-high signal that
can drive the Infrared Transmitter
Module, which consists of nothing
more than an IR LED (similar to Jaycar ZD1945) on a PCB.
NPN transistor Q1 and its two resistors (1kW & 10kW) form an inverter
that turns the active low signal into an
active high signal. With no IR signal
falling on the IR Receiver Module, current flows into Q1’s base, turning it on.
When Q1 is on, it conducts current into its collector (C) and out of
its emitter (E). The voltage at the collector is therefore low. If an IR signal
is received, the S pin goes to 0V and
no current flows into the base of Q1,
so Q1’s collector voltage can rise to
5V due to current flowing through
the 10kW resistor. That allows the
555 to oscillate and deliver a 38kHz-
modulated signal to the IR LED.
The inverted signal from Q1’s collector goes to IC1’s RESET pin (RS,
pin 4), so IC1’s output (O, pin 3) is
low whenever there is no IR signal.
However, when RESET is high, the 555
timer can operate. Its output will be
mirror the copper tracks on the
underside.
10nF
output producing a 38kHz square
wave. This signal is applied to the
IR LED as long as the IR Receiver
100nF
Module receives a signal.
Note that when there is no sig100μ
100
μF
nal, current through LED1 must
flow through both 1kW resistors.
When a signal is detected and
the S pin is near ground, current only needs to flow through
one of the resistors. So you will see
the LED’s brightness increase as a signal is received.
high after the TRIGGER (Tr) pin goes
below 1/3 of the supply voltage, then Construction
switches low when the THRESHOLD
We built our prototype on a bread(Th) pin goes above 2/3 of the supply board pattern prototyping PCB and
voltage.
recommend you do the same, as we
The TRIGGER (pin 2) and THRESH- found that using a breadboard added
OLD (pin 6) inputs are joined, and stray capacitance. Some of this stray
the 10nF capacitor is kept discharged capacitance appears in parallel with
when RESET is low by the 1kW resis- the 10nF capacitor, slowing down
tor. So the 555’s output goes high as the oscillator. That means it may not
soon as RESET goes high.
work, although we found that many
The 10nF capacitor charges up from devices were not too fussy about the
the OUTPUT through the 1kW resis- exact frequency.
tor until the voltage on it (and thus
To help you place and wire up the
the TRIGGER and THRESHOLD pins) components, closely examine the
reaches 2/3 of the 5V supply. The out- prototype photos; solder the compoput goes low and the 10nF capacitor nents and wires in place as shown. To
discharges until the 1/3 supply voltage make it easier to see where the coppoint is reached.
per tracks go on the underside of the
The cycle continues, with the 555’s PCB, we have drawn lines on the top
Pin 1
Fig.1: the two boxes correspond to the modules; they could be replaced by the separate parts in each box. The Receiver
Module demodulates the incoming IR signal. Q1 and IC1 add back the modulation before resending the signal via the
Transmitter Module.
66
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
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Scope 1: the blue trace is the voltage at the Receiver’s S pin, while the green
trace is the voltage at IC1’s pins 2 and 6 (across the 10nF timing capacitor). The
red trace is the voltage across the Transmitter LED, while the yellow trace is the
signal from another Receiver Module that is not connected to the circuit.
and + and – symbols on the two supply rails. Note that pin 1 of the 555 is
near the 100nF capacitor (towards the
bottom in both photos).
We used stiff wire to join the modules to the PCB. You can use longer
wires (or jumper wires) to place the
Transmitter further from the Receiver.
We recommend using short wires for
the Receiver and longer wires for the
Transmitter, especially since there are
only two wires to the Transmitter.
You could use a socket for the IC
rather than soldering it directly to the
board. Take care with the orientation
of the transistor. Its pin 1 (collector) is
connected on the same row as IC1’s pin
4, with the Q1’s flat edge facing away
from the middle. The white wire in the
photo loops over the top of IC1, from
its pin 6 to pin 2; add it last.
Testing
Solder the Transmitter and Receiver
modules, but leave off the S wire for
the Receiver (yellow in the photos).
This allows IC1 to run and the Transmitter will produce a signal continuously, so you can aim the Transmitter
at the Receiver to test them both.
Apply 5V to the + rail and connect supply GND (0V) to the – rail.
The LED on the Receiver module
should light up. If you wave your
hand between the Transmitter and
Receiver, the LED should flicker as
the signal changes.
If you don’t see this, use an oscilloscope, multimeter or frequency
counter to check the frequency at
either end of the 220W resistor. Scope
1 shows some of the waveforms you
should see.
Once the circuit is working, hook up
the last wire and deploy the Extender.
Don’t aim the Transmitter at the
Receiver in use; otherwise, it will be
SC
confused by its own signal!
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Parts List – Wired IR Remote Extender (JMP004)
1 breadboard-pattern prototyping circuit board [Jaycar HP9570]
1 555 timer IC, DIP-8 (IC1) [Jaycar ZL3555]
1 8-pin DIL IC socket (optional; for IC1) [Jaycar PI6500]
1 IR Transmitter Module [Jaycar XC4426]
1 IR Receiver Module [Jaycar XC4427]
1 BC548 NPN transistor, TO-92 [Jaycar ZT2154]
Assorted solid-core wire [Jaycar PB8850]
1 5V DC supply
1 100μF 16V electrolytic capacitor [Jaycar RE6130]
1 100nF 100V MKT capacitor [Jaycar RM7125]
1 10nF 100V MKT capacitor [Jaycar RM7065]
1 10kW 1/2W 1% metal film resistor [Jaycar RR0596]
2 1kW 1/2W 1% metal film resistor [Jaycar RR0572]
1 220W 1/2W 1% metal film resistor [Jaycar RR0556]
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