This is only a preview of the September 2024 issue of Silicon Chip. You can view 42 of the 112 pages in the full issue, including the advertisments. For full access, purchase the issue for $10.00 or subscribe for access to the latest issues. Items relevant to "Compact OLED Clock/Timer":
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SEPTEMBER 2024
ISSN 1030-2662
09
9 771030 266001
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Contents
Vol.37, No.09
September 2024
16 Energy Harvesting
Page 16
Image source: Tex Energy
Energy harvesting is the process of obtaining small amounts of energy
from the environment. While this type of power generation is not always
cost-effective, it is useful for powering small devices away from the grid.
By Dr David Maddison, VK3DSM
Off-grid energy
29 Exteek C28 transmitter/receiver
This device acts as an audio transmitter or receiver over Bluetooth. It uses
a 3.5mm jack and works great with headphones, amplifiers or even in a car.
Review by Allan Linton-Smith
Bluetooth audio
48 Mains Earthing Systems
We take a look at the different Earthing systems that are used worldwide
and describe how they work.
By Brandon Speedie
Mains power
Unconventional
Power Generation
upgrade your instrument with these
Electric & Bass Guitar
Pickguards
71 Electronics Manufacturing in Oz
Continuing the tale of the long history of electronics manufacturing in
Australia, from the 1930s to its pseudo-demise in the 1970s.
Part 2 by Kevin Poulter
Historical feature
32 Compact OLED Clock/Timer
This portable and rechargeable device combines a clock, timer and
stopwatch into a single unit. It can display different time zones, and uses
an internal crystal plus WiFi time source to make sure it is always accurate.
By Tim Blythman
Timekeeping project
52 Pico Mixed-Signal Analyser
Our USB PicoMSA monitors and decodes serial buses and other logic signals
in an inexpensive package. It uses a single Raspberry Pi Pico and features up
to 20 protected digital inputs with three protected analog inputs.
By Richard Palmer
Test instrument project
66 Jaycar-sponsored Mini Projects
This month, we have an IR helper that can help reduce the number
of IR remote controls you need to juggle. Next, we have a circuit that
demonstrates RGB LED colour shifting using no ICs.
By Tim Blythman
Mini projects
78 Discrete Ideal Bridge Rectifiers
Providing active rectification of a centre-tapped transformer or combining
two DC supplies are just two very handy features of these Bridge Rectifiers,
which have maximum ratings of 80V and 10A.
By Phil Prosser & Ian Ashford
Power supply project
86 Electric Guitar Pickguards
These PCBs suit many popular models of electric & bass guitars, offering
advanced features and a cool aesthetic.
By Brandon Speedie
Musical instrument project
Starting on Page 86
2
Editorial Viewpoint
5
Mailbag
15
Subscriptions
45
Circuit Notebook
96
Serviceman’s Log
102
Vintage Radio
107
Online Shop
108
Ask Silicon Chip
111
Market Centre
112
Advertising Index
112
Notes & Errata
1. Power control for a dashcam
2. Ball maze game
Stromberg-Carlson “Air Hostess”
model 4A19 by Graham Parslow
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Editorial Viewpoint
Intel is in trouble
If you have kept up with computers over the last
few years, you will know that Intel’s major competitor,
Advanced Micro Devices (AMD), has been giving them
a run for their money, especially in the server space.
For many years, Intel had such a commanding lead in
the computer CPU market that they did very little R&D.
They would release a new generation of processors that
was marginally better than the last one every couple of
years, raking in cash while putting in minimal effort.
That came back to bite them over the last few years as AMD got over the
problems it had in the early 2010s and brought out its very successful lineup
of ‘Zen’ processors. Apple also shook up the laptop market with their M-series
of processors from 2020. One big advantage of these processors is that they
have much better performance per watt compared to many of Intel’s offerings.
As this is going to press, AMD has just started launching their Zen 5 line of
CPUs, with modest performance improvements over Zen 4 but significantly
lower power consumption.
Intel has pushed its technology too hard in an attempt to deal with this
threat. The 12th-generation Core CPUs were perfectly fine, but the 13th and
14th-generation processors were pushed to higher frequencies, voltages and
power levels in an attempt to compete with AMD on performance.
To put this into perspective, the 16-core AMD Ryzen 7950X draws around
140W under heavy load with its default settings, giving similar overall
performance to Intel’s 24-core 14900K. However, in its launch configuration,
the 14900K drew over 300W under heavy load – more than twice as much as
the AMD part!
That high power draw is undesirable, but that isn’t why Intel is in trouble.
To get the chips to run fast enough to be competitive with AMD’s, they have
pushed their clock speeds as high as possible. To achieve high ‘boost’ clock
speeds, when just a couple of cores are loaded, they are feeding some CPUs
with 1.5-1.6V (it’s closer to 1.0-1.3V under normal conditions). It seems that
is too much, and it is killing them.
Intel has promised a patch to fix this. However, many 13th and 14th-generation
Intel CPUs are affected, and some will have already been damaged. The patch
might stop future damage but won’t fix that which has already occurred.
So, they will likely be replacing a large number of processors as they just
announced a two-year warranty extension on affected products. There’s also
the problem that some people with these faulty chips have had their warranty
claims denied. They really need to fix this properly but they must know it will
cost them a lot of money, so they are putting it off. It doesn’t help that they just
announced massive layoffs, with around 15,000 jobs gone.
While I think AMD’s technology is currently better overall than Intel’s, mainly
due to superior power efficiency, I don’t want a situation where AMD gets lazy
because they have no major competitor, the reverse of what happened 10 years
ago. We need both companies to be healthy so there is active competition in
the space.
Intel needs to fix this pronto. While they have admitted that some of their
processors have stability problems, they have not fully explained the cause
and they have yet to deploy a proper solution. Their reputation is suffering as
the situation remains unresolved for so long.
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your feedback
Letters and emails should contain complete name, address and daytime phone number. Letters to the Editor are submitted on the condition that
Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd has the right to edit, reproduce in electronic form, and communicate these letters. This also applies to submissions to “Ask Silicon Chip”, “Circuit Notebook” and “Serviceman’s Log”.
Test equipment for sale
Following my retirement, I have the following test instruments available for sale. All are used rather than new, but
they are all in good condition:
1. A Siglent SDS2104 four-channel DSO with a bandwidth of 100MHz and a maximum sampling rate of 2GSa/
sec. It also has eight digital channels, and I can provide a
user manual and a service manual with it ($600).
2. A Gratten GA1484B RF Signal Generator with a frequency range of 250kHz to 4GHz. I can provide a user
manual and a programming manual with this one ($500).
3. A Siglent SDM3045X Bench Digital Multimeter with a
4.5-digit display. This one comes with a user manual ($300).
4. A Yokogawa 7562 Bench Digital Multimeter with
4.5 digit display. This one also has an instruction manual ($300).
5. A Digitech QM1240 True RMS bench type DMM ($200).
6. A Hewlett-Packard E3631A Triple Output Bench Power
Supply, with outputs of 0–6V at up to 5A and 0 to ±25V at
up to 1A. This comes with the original HP user’s guide and
service guide and would be good value at $150.
If any of these instruments interest you, please email
silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au and they will pass it on to me.
Jamieson ‘Jim’ Rowe, Sydney, NSW.
The EDUC-8 is known worldwide
Your farewell to Jim Rowe showed how long he has been
pivotal in advancing digital technology in Australia. His
EDUC-8 was published over 50 years ago, in 1974; I still
have a Digital Electronics – Theory, Instruments and Computers book he wrote, published by EA in 1967.
My son recently went to Silicon Valley and visited
many of the digital tragic shrines: Xerox PARC, the Sun
siliconchip.com.au
Microsystems sign, Steve Jobs’ garage and the Computer
History Museum. In that museum, he found an original
EDUC-8.
Thanks to Jim for his work over such a long time.
Dave Dobeson, Berowra Heights, NSW.
Working with Jim Rowe
I just received the July issue of Silicon Chip and discovered that Jim Rowe has retired. I first met Jim when I finished a traineeship with AWA and joined the Electronics
Australia staff around January 1967, when I was 21 years
old. I have just celebrated my 78th birthday; I will not try
to figure out Jim’s present age.
Soon after, Leo Simpson joined the EA staff and subsequently went on to be very successful.
During my time at EA, I found Jim to be a great mentor,
very kind and encouraging. His electronics knowledge and
writing talent were pretty awesome. My very best wishes
to Jim.
Anthony Leo, Cecil Park, NSW.
Getting a MicroMag working with the Micromite
Thanks for your article on the MicroMag3 magnetic sensor (June 2024; siliconchip.au/Article/16290). I set myself
the task of translating the code to work with a Micromite;
you might find the problem I encountered interesting.
The translated code worked perfectly, with seemingly
valid readings on the three axes. The problem arose when
I calculated the heading.
There is no ATAN2 function on the Micromite, so one
has to use the ATN function and then work out which
quadrant the heading lies and adjust the result to get the
correct heading. To my surprise, assuming the SWD convention was being used, the headings made no sense at all!
Upon closer examination of the readings, I found that, at
least for my sample, it did not use the SWD convention. The
X-axis and Z-axis readings were as expected when using
this convention, ie, negative readings were associated with
NORTH and DOWN directions, respectively. However, the
EAST direction was associated with positive readings and
WEST with negative readings.
When I took this disparity into account, the calculated
headings were completely consistent. Further, the arrow
pointed to magnetic north, not the other way around, as
in your Arduino sketch.
I used the DATA READY signal to determine when to read
the data; there were no problems with that on the Micromite. I completed the project by adding code to show the
heading on a 1.3-inch OLED screen.
Jack Holliday, Nathan, Qld.
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 5
Australian component manufacturing in the past
Many thanks for the article on Electronics Manufacturing in Australia in the August issue, which I really enjoyed
(siliconchip.au/Series/426). I am looking forward to part
two. I was involved in local equipment manufacture in my
earlier days in electronics, back in the 1960s when we had
large tariff protection for products that ‘could’ be manufactured in Australia.
I want to suggest an article on components that used to
be made locally by companies such as Ducon, IRC etc. It
could be of interest to your readers.
Before I met her, my future wife worked at Ducon making special-order precision capacitors, which were used
by the company for which I worked to make specialty
notch filters. By some strange quirk of fate, that same
lady started working for my employers, and the rest is a
60-year history.
Of course, all those local component manufacturers have
long gone, but a summary of them might be an interesting
journey back into the past.
David Coggins, Beachmere, Qld.
Comments on single-valve radio
Congratulations to Fred Lever for squeezing the last
drop of juice out of the lemon with his one-valve superhet
radio! (July 2024; siliconchip.au/Article/16332) It was an
impressive ‘adventure’ for sure. His solution to instability
– which he discovered by diligent effort – is, in fact, seen
in some commercial radios, like AWA’s B15 (July 2013;
siliconchip.au/Article/3945).
And thank you for your explanation of neutralisation
in the July article. Invented by Harold Wheeler at Louis
Hazeltine’s laboratory in 1923 (US Patent 1,450,080), neutralisation revolutionised receiver design. It was also vital
to transmitter design.
It was used universally in grown-junction and
alloyed-junction IF strips for AM transistor radios, only
obsoleted by the much lower feedback capacitances of
alloy-diffused and mesa/planar devices.
On reading the word “feedback”, most of us understand
the common use of negative feedback to improve designs.
That includes everything from hifi amplifiers to the servomechanisms used in the robotic assemblers that place the
chips in your smartphone onto their circuit boards.
Conversely, we commonly believe positive feedback
to be a problem. It’s the cause of the ‘howling’ oscillation
that bedevilled de Forest’s early attempts at amplification.
Wheeler’s patent identified the problem of Miller feedback in triodes. The patent describes how this feedback
lowers input impedance. Since this feedback is shunted
across the grid circuit, its impedance-reducing effect defines
it as negative feedback. Given that, according to all our textbooks, negative feedback reduces gain, how can this produce oscillation, the effect of positive feedback?
Confusingly, Wheeler’s patent applied a feedback signal
that balanced the Miller feedback. Wheeler’s signal was in
phase with the input and was thus positive. So, we fix the
problem of uncontrolled positive feedback by applying an
extra, controlled amount?
Let’s put aside the idea of feedback for a moment. Wheeler’s patent sent back some signal in opposing phase to that
on the grid. Adjusting the opposing-phase signal must, at
some ‘sweet spot’, nullify the anode-grid feedback, allowing
6
Silicon Chip
the amplifier to operate at its maximum design potential.
The amplifier is neutralised.
If that all makes sense, we can now look at howling.
Anode-grid feedback inverts the original signal; it is 180°
in opposition, but this is only true in a resistive circuit.
One tuned LC circuit in the grid and one in the anode will
be resistive at exactly their resonant frequencies.
But what if those frequencies differ? In the worst case,
they will both be reactive, with one leading and one lagging. It is quite possible for the reactive circuits to create a
feedback signal in phase with (or close enough to being in
phase with) the input signal to provoke oscillation.
The entire problem is solved by neutralisation. If the
anode-grid feedback is phase-shifted, the neutralising signal
should suffer the same but opposite shift and still oppose
the anode-grid feedback.
Look at any AM transistor radio circuit from the early
days, such as our first “trannie”, the AWA 897P (April
2015; siliconchip.au/Article/8458). You will observe that a
neutralised IF stage could be mistaken for a Hartley oscillator, where the collector signal is inverted and applied
to the base.
Ian Batty, Rosebud, Vic.
Excessive bending shortens extension cord life
Regarding the June 2024 Editorial Viewpoint, cheap
electrical cables do fail more readily than older, more ruggedly built ones.
The photo in that article shows a cable that has had a hard
life and is ‘corkscrewed’. The cable cores have rotated due
to the cable being repeatedly rolled in the same direction
all the time. That is a common problem with long cables
of any type, but it does seem to occur more readily with
thin cable sheathing.
As you mentioned, the repeated twisting results in broken strands. Once a couple of strands break at a point, that
area of the core becomes weakened, so it will twist more
readily there, and further strands break. It’s a cascading
effect that leads to rapid failure.
The solution is to treat cables well. Always roll longer
cables with the ‘over & under’ technique, where alternating
turns of the cable cancel the twisting tendency. Numerous
YouTube videos show variations of the technique.
Editor’s note: I found the video at https://youtu.be/
L7av0C0jWQw helpful.
Any cable (or hose) over about two metres long will last
much longer if it is rolled correctly. But it can be more
practical to roll very long and/or heavy cables onto a
drum. A garden hose reel is helpful for storing cables for
a mains-powered mower. Still, if the cable is not in good
condition, a reel should probably be avoided.
Noel Bachelor, Seven Hills, NSW.
The adoption of DVB-T2 and HEVC
I’m a relatively new reader of your publication and have
come to appreciate the fantastic articles you provide on all
things technical. Please find my reply to Alan Hughes’ letter from the July 2024 issue regarding “European countries
switching to HD TV only”:
For over a decade, I have worked in television master
control rooms, where I oversee several transmitter sites
across the continent. I have had the same questions as Alan
concerning DVB-T2 in Australia.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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Over the years, I have posed this question to my colleagues and, through a combination of feedback and personal research, have found the following reason why Australian terrestrial television is the way it is.
The examples of continental European television markets are correct; it is impressive how they have been able
to move onto DVB-T2 and get rid of standard-definition
broadcasts. However, there are a few factors to consider
with these markets.
A key point is that they have very dense population
centres that only require a small number of transmitters
for terrestrial coverage. Consider the city of Paris, where
two million people are in a 105km2 area. Compare that to
Perth, where a comparable population is spread out over
nearly 6420km2.
The costs to cover the same population start multiplying as repeater/translator sites are required to ensure the
population can be reached. Converting to DVB-T2 requires
upgrading all transmission infrastructure; while major
tower sites such as Carmel or Artarmon are only a software
update away, other sites will require a complete overhaul
to have such capabilities.
DVB-T2 allows for more data in the same RF space,
meaning that more high-definition (HD) services (channels) could be broadcast. However, there are reasons why
the existing parameters used in DVB-T are what they are.
Australian terrestrial broadcasters have only 7MHz of
bandwidth at their disposal; I suspect this is a hangover
from the analog days, as the single-channel carriers were
the same size.
With the current DVB-T parameters, we can only broadcast up to 23Mb/s (using 64QAM modulation with a Forward Error Correction [FEC] rate of 75%). Reducing the
FEC would be a quick way to increase this while preserving DVB-T compliance, but that would come at the cost
of signal robustness. DVB-T2 uses other tricks to fit more
data, but it would still hit a wall with the signal integrity
that needs to be provided.
The Broadcast Act does not obligate commercial broadcasters to maintain standard-definition services, so their
continued existence is for purely economic reasons. It is
my opinion that standard-definition television has no place
in 2024. However, my industry perseveres to ensure it
reaches those few who still have equipment that can only
handle such a format.
It is worth noting that certain broadcast areas have minimal SD services, such as rural Queensland, where the Seven
Network maintains a majority of its services not only in
HD but also with MPEG4 compression.
The software-defined infrastructure that is used to produce these signals is getting very close to completely replacing any dedicated FPGA or ASIC hardware that was previously used. Producing multiple compressed video services
that are multiplexed and combined with data services (such
as electronic program guides) uses a lot of processing power.
That requirement drastically increases with HD MPEG4.
While compression formats such as HEVC are fantastic for
their efficiency and are used in broadcast for professional
and consumer reception, producing such signals requires
even higher computing power. That, combined with HEVC’s
licensing fees for equipment to use that format, is the reason why, besides Foxtel boxes, few receivers support it.
I hope this helps clarify a few things about why Australian
8
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
terrestrial television is what it is. Ignoring the doomsayers,
who will be quick to write off the medium as dying, there
are glimmers of hope on the horizon. Our biggest endeavour
at the moment is enhancing accessibility by implementing
descriptive audio tracks on all broadcast networks.
While the government broadcasters already maintain
such facilities, the commercial broadcasters have many
specific licence areas that multiply the amount of work
required.
Nicolas Mason, North Parramatta, NSW.
Melting power boards
In relation to the comments on dodgy power boards, I
wonder how some of this garbage gets into the country
and who approves it. I do tagging and testing. On several
occasions, I have been presented with some that have suffered melting damage.
The 10A rating on some seems to be folly; most of the
meltdowns were at 8A. If it exceeded 10A, the circuit breakers would have to be considered useless; a thermal fuse
may be more appropriate. There is a serious problem here
and clearly, they have not been tested to verify that they
comply with any regulations we may still have.
I have, on occasion, tested cables that have turned up as
charitable donations to an organisation. Most of these come
from dad’s shed after he has passed away. Over 10% are
seriously and often dangerously non-compliant, and the
accompanying mains-powered tools (drills etc) are also
mechanically defective and unsafe.
Marcus Chick, Wangaratta, Vic.
Stick with name-brand extension cords
I read your June editorial with interest. You may be
interested in my experience with faulty extension cords.
I purchased a “heavy duty” extension cord from a wellknown hardware store a few years ago. It lasted about two
years before becoming open-circuit somewhere. I only
occasionally used it as an extension for a pressure washer.
I later purchased a “normal duty” extension cord from
the same store. It lasted about six months and also went
open-circuit. Neither cable showed any obvious damage.
This suggests the faults are with the wire quality and/or the
wire gauge, which cannot withstand even moderate flexing.
I have recently purchased a “heavy duty” HPM cable.
Being an Australian brand, I thought it would be locally
made to a better specification or at least made elsewhere
to HPM’s specification. I hope my faith in Australian manufacturers is not misplaced.
Alan Brodie, Box Hill, Vic.
Many Li-ion batteries advertised online are scams
I buy lots of stuff from AliExpress, and generally, the
quality is good. However, I was searching for some rechargeable batteries and came across these:
• AliExpress 1005007071030132
• AliExpress 1005006600481659
You’ve got to be kidding! The claimed capacities of
20,000mAh <at> 12V and 28,000mAh <at> 9V are not possible
in batteries of those sizes. These are just two examples of
ludicrous battery capacities; many more are being sold
from the site. This is very much a case of caveat emptor.
But how many are going to be fooled by these?
Charles Kosina, Mooroolbark, Vic.
10
Silicon Chip
Comment: this has been going on for more than a decade.
It isn’t just AliExpress; fraudulent battery capacities are
rife on other sites like eBay. We gave a warning about this
in the August 2017 issue, p93. It’s not just batteries, either.
Other specifications being faked are the brightnesses of
LED torches and lamps; even the capacities of jerry cans
are often inflated!
Oscillation problem with Automatic LQ Meter
A few constructors have contacted me with a problem
with their Automatic LQ Meters (July 2024; siliconchip.
au/Article/16321). It only seems to affect a small number
of units. I don’t fully understand why; the precision halfwave rectifier based around IC1b is identical to that used
in the original Q Meter design (January 2023; siliconchip.
au/Article/15613).
It manifests as a high current draw from the supply due
to IC1 oscillating at a high frequency, and the device naturally does not work properly. The two LQ Meters I built
had no such problems. Likewise, with three of the original
Q Meters I built, there were no problems.
I tried swapping the OPA2677 IC in the unit that a
reader sent me but that did not fix it (the reader had
already tried doing that). I thought there could be some
strange problem with pin 5 of IC5, so I swapped that as
well, with no result.
Without D1 in the circuit, the current drain is about
160mA, and it will measure L and Q. However, the rectified
output on TP4 (Vin) drops off markedly with frequency,
which results in incorrectly high Q readings, as Q = Vout
÷ Vin. This is because the op amp does not recover fast
enough from the negative excursions on pin 7.
I found a workaround: add a 220W resistor in series with
D1. This reduces the op amp’s gain to about ¼ on the negative excursions. The maximum current is now 170mA
because, on the negative excursions at pin 7, it has to drive
the current through the 220W resistor.
I believe this problem is a characteristic of the op amp,
as it is a current feedback rather than a voltage feedback
type. However, I can’t explain why it has never shown
up in testing before. At least the solution is simple; it just
needs a 220W 1/4W resistor added in series with D1, which
can be done neatly.
Charles Kosina, Mooroolbark, Vic.
Recovering parts from power supplies & monitors
Recently, I was wrecking some old computer power
supplies, both AT and ATX. These PSUs had rusty cases
and were just taking up room as they would never be used
again. They were mostly old AT PSUs and low-wattage
ATX PSUs. A few non-working later-model ATX PSUs
were included as well.
I noticed that most of the old AT PSUs and older ATX
PSUs had good electrolytic capacitors that I could salvage (as well as other parts). However, the newer, non-
working ATX PSUs almost always had bad capacitors;
in some cases, most of the larger low-voltage capacitors
had blown tops.
It seems that these later ATX PSUs were made in the era
when the market was flooded with cheap non-Japanese
electrolytic capacitors. Back in the day, I replaced many
bad capacitors on motherboards. One particular brand of
motherboard was particularly notorious for using these
Australia's electronics magazine
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capacitors. [Editor’s note – see our article on the ‘capacitor
plague’ in the May 2003 issue, starting on page 8]
I suspect that penny-pinching using cheaper non-
Japanese capacitors put this particular manufacturer out
of business when their warranty claims exceeded their
new sales.
I was also scrapping a lot of old CRT monitors that I had
in my shed. I did not find a single monitor with even one
bad electrolytic capacitor in it. However, I salvaged very
few capacitors from the monitors, as most were 85°C types;
I only bothered to salvage 105°C ones. I got lucky with one
monitor, which had several Rubicon capacitors in it.
Wrecking this old ‘junk’ has the benefit of making a
few dollars from the scrap metals. Depending on the construction, monitors can contain up to $5 worth of copper,
aluminium and steel. Some yield much less scrap, some
more. One particular monitor weighed 24kg and had 4kg
of steel in it.
The most valuable metal is what they call burnt copper wire, which is the enamelled copper wire from the
yoke and degaussing coil. Insulated copper wire is the
next most valuable, with aluminium following. Steel is
the least valuable. So it has been worth cleaning out my
shed and getting rid of the old ‘junk’, making a few dollars in the process.
Bruce Pierson, Dundathu, Qld.
An easy way to switch Ethernet on and off
On page 101 of the July 2024 issue, D. S. of Maryborough, Qld asked for a method to ‘switch’ a network cable
on and off to restrict his son’s internet use.
My simple solution, instead of switching eight data
lines, is to use a cheap network switch/hub powered by a
DC supply. The ideal choice is a model like the TP-Link
TL-SG108E or similar (with an external DC plugpack).
Simply switching the power to the network switch/hub
causes all the physically connected network ports to disconnect. It’s a very simple, reliable method of switching
Ethernet connections on/off. It can also be used for switching multiple access points on/off with a physical switch,
which can be a key switch for security.
As the reader mentioned, he could build a timer with
an Arduino Uno board, but why go to that trouble? Simply
buy a plug-in mains electronic timer switch and set the on/
off times – problem solved!
SC
Brett Neale, Bertram, WA.
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
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The intelligent edge often requires 64-bit
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cluster with secure boot capabilities.
Microchip’s PIC64GX family includes a
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12
Silicon Chip
develop, debug and qualify embedded
designs.
The PIC64 High-Performance Spaceflight
Computing (PIC64-HPSC) family is also
being launched as part of Microchip’s first
wave of 64-bit offerings. The space-grade,
64-bit multi-core RISC-V MPUs are designed
to increase compute performance by more
than 100 times while delivering unprecedented radiation and fault tolerance for aerospace and defence applications.
NASA’s Jet Propulsion Laboratory (JPL)
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2 0 2 2 t h at i t h a d
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develop HPSC processors as part of its
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The PIC64-HPSC family represents a new
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Microchip is now
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full spectrum of 8-, 16-,
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and MPUs. Future
PIC64 families will
include devices based
Australia's electronics magazine
on RISC-V or ARM architectures; embedded
designers will be able to take advantage of
Microchip’s end-to-end solutions for faster
design, debug and verification and a reduced
time to market.
To learn more, visit the Microchip 64-bit
web page: www.microchip.com/en-us/
products/microprocessors/64-bit-mpus
The PIC64GX Curiosity Kit is now available
for early adopters. Production versions of the
Curiosity Kit and PIC64GX1000 parts are due
for release by September 2024.
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AUGUST 2024
ISSN 1030-2662
08
The VERY BEST DIY Projects
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Generating Power
by Unusual Means
By Dr David Maddison, VK3DSM
The Landesbergen biomass power plant in Germany; it generates
power by burning scrap wood. Image source: Statkraft – www.
flickr.com/photos/statkraft/49866093642 (CC-BY-NC-ND 2.0)
Energy is all around us in one form or another, but often in small
amounts. Energy harvesting, otherwise known as power harvesting or
energy scavenging, is the process of obtaining small amounts of energy
from the environment to supply low-power devices.
W
ith a few exceptions, the amounts
of power available from energy
harvesting are small, and the expense
required to obtain that power makes
these methods not competitive with
grid power, where it is available. However, these tiny amounts of energy
can be very useful for powering small
devices away from the grid; modern
efficient electronics can often run on
minimal amounts of power.
This article will cover methods
of power generation other than the
ones most people are familiar with,
like coal and gas generators, nuclear
power plants, hydroelectric plants,
solar, wind and wave power or burning biomass or waste.
With these alternative power-
generating methods, the power available is often on the order of nanowatts
to milliwatts. In some cases, it may
16
Silicon Chip
be possible to generate several watts
(or more).
The main applications for energy-
harvesting devices include powering
IoT devices such as remote sensors,
‘wearable electronics’, powering biomedical devices (like pacemakers) or
charging portable devices like mobile
phones.
Energy harvesting principles
The basic principles and technologies that energy harvesting devices
utilise include the following. We will
describe their uses when we look at
particular implementations.
• Using chemistry, such as in an
electrochemical cell.
• Using biochemistry, including the
generation of electricity using bacteria or plants.
• Using biomechanical principles,
Australia's electronics magazine
such as utilising bodily movement.
• Using an electret, a dielectric
material that maintains electric polarisation after it has been subject to
a strong electric field. It is the electrostatic equivalent of a permanent
magnet.
• Using electric field gradients,
such as causing a fluorescent tube to
glow near a power line.
• Using electromagnetic induction
to generate electricity by Faraday’s
Law, the “production of an electromotive force (EMF) across an electrical conductor in a changing magnetic
field”.
• Capturing electromagnetic radiation from radio waves via an antenna
or from light, such as in a solar cell via
the photoelectric effect.
• Using electrostatic power generation to produce high voltages at very
siliconchip.com.au
low currents. This frequently involves
materials rubbing against each other
(via the triboelectric effect).
• Using metamaterials, artificial
materials with repeating structures
that can interact with and manipulate electromagnetic waves in various ways.
• Converting motion to electricity
using electromagnetic, electrostatic or
piezoelectric effects.
• Using changes in air pressure to
expand or contract bellows.
• Using a temperature gradient,
such as with a thermoelectric device.
• Using the movement of air, like
in a wind turbine.
• Using the movement of water, ie,
hydroelectricity.
Below we will cover what energy-
harvesting devices and techniques that
we have found:
Fig.1: the first self-winding
mechanical watch that harvested
energy from the motion of the wearer’s
arm. Source: Fratello Watches –
siliconchip.au/link/abxy
Watches
Since watches are small, low-
powered devices, there has been much
interest in energy harvesting to power
them.
Self-winding automatic mechanical watches were common before the
advent of electronic quartz watches.
They had a pendulum activated by
swinging one’s arm that wound the
mainspring. The first credible report
of a self-winding pocket watch dates
to 1777.
In 1922, the first self-winding wristwatch was invented by John Harwood, and he was awarded Swiss
patent 106583 in 1924. The watch
was released to the market in 1928 –
see Fig.1.
The first solar-powered clock was
demonstrated by Patek Philippe at
the Basel Fair in 1952! Four hours of
light per day was enough to keep the
clock running indefinitely. The solar
cell drove a motor that wound the
mainspring. Patek Philippe went on
to make a range of solar clocks; see
siliconchip.au/link/abxm
The solar-powered watch was first
patented by Timex in 1969, but the first
solar watch, the Synchronar 2100, was
invented by American Roger Riehl. He
partnered with Palo Alto, California
based electronics company Ness Time
for the project.
The watch (Fig.2) was shown at the
RJA Fall trade fair in July 1973 and
remained in production until 1983;
you can see a TV ad for it at https://
youtu.be/mIwxNkGKXb4
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: the Synchronar Sunwatch
was the world’s first solar-powered
watch, released in 1972. Source:
https://solarmuseum.org/cells/
synchronar-2100/
In many modern solar watches, the
dial is translucent and the solar cell(s)
are hidden beneath it.
Seiko pioneered the so-called automatic quartz watch concept that used
a rotating pendulum inside the watch.
Instead of winding a spring, it drove
a highly-geared miniature generator at
up to 100,000 RPM to charge a capacitor or rechargeable battery. Seiko
unveiled the technology in 1986 and
today sells them under the Kinetic
brand.
Seiko still maintains a web page for
these watches (siliconchip.au/link/
abxn) but we have seen statements
that they are being phased out (see
siliconchip.au/link/abxo). About eight
million have been sold to date. The
generator mechanism of the Kinetic
watch has been experimentally used
to power a cardiac pacemaker in an
animal (more on that later).
The PowerWatch uses a Matrix
thermoelectric device to power it,
in addition to solar energy (www.
powerwatch.com). A review of the
Australia's electronics magazine
Fig.3: the Atmos clock mechanism:
1. Expansion chamber
2. Brass cover
3. Balance spring (counterweight)
4. Small chain
5. Mainspring
6. Pulley
7. Return spring
8. Balance wheel
9. Elinvar wire
10. Escapement
11. Winding spring
Original source: Watch Collecting
Lifestyle – siliconchip.au/link/abxs
PowerWatch Series 2 is at siliconchip.
au/link/abxp
Atmospheric & solar clocks
The Atmos is a very expensive clock
currently available from Jaeger-LeCoultre that obtains its energy from
environmental temperature and pressure changes. Expansion and contraction of liquid and gaseous ethyl chloride in a bellows as the temperature or
pressure rises and falls cause a spring
to be wound to power the mechanism
– see Fig.3.
The Beverly Clock in New Zealand (https://w.wiki/AUgH) has been
running since 1864 without winding. However, it did stop a few times,
mainly when there was insufficient
change in atmospheric pressure or
temperature to keep the mechanism
wound.
The Long Now Clock (funded by
Jeff Bezos; https://longnow.org/clock),
being built in the USA, is designed to
run for 10,000 years. It uses sunlight
falling on a chamber of air to move
September 2024 17
Fig.4: harvesting
atmospheric electricity
to run an electrostatic
motor. This type is
called a corona motor.
Original source:
Rimstar – siliconchip.
au/link/abx7
Fig.5: conventional
(a) and auxetic
(b) piezoelectric
bimorphs for
energy harvesting.
Original source:
https://pubs.
aip.org/aip/adv/
article/7/1/015104/
240312/
a cylinder, which provides enough
winding force to keep the pendulum
going. It is also used to synchronise the
clock to solar noon. So, in a sense, it
is solar powered, although it does not
use a photovoltaic panel.
Atmospheric electricity
There is a substantial electric field
gradient in the atmosphere, so an electrostatic motor can be made to turn
by having one electrode high in the
air with the other at a lower level (see
Fig.4). The power is meagre; at most
a current of a few microamps can be
drawn.
For more on this, see the panel in
this article on Hermann Plauson (page
26), the video titled “How Powering
with Atmospheric Electricity Works”
at https://youtu.be/2rVdEhyMR6A
and the web page at siliconchip.au/
link/abx7
Piezoelectric energy
Piezoelectricity involves the production of electrical energy from
mechanical strain. Examples of
sources of strain include motion,
sound and vibration. The power generated is typically minimal, milliwatts
or less. Piezoelectric materials include
ceramics like quartz crystals and, more
recently, piezoelectric polymers like
polyvinylidene fluoride (PVDF) – see
Fig.6.
An example of a piezoelectric
energy harvester is shown in Fig.7.
Some piezoelectric substances are
also pyroelectric. These crystals are
naturally electrically polarised and
produce a voltage when heated or
cooled. This could be used for energy
harvesting over a day by taking advantage of the natural changes in ambient
temperature.
Auxetic materials are artificially-
structured metamaterials that expand
in width rather than contract when
stretched. Conversely, when subject
to compression, they reduce in width.
It has been proposed that auxetic
materials could increase the energy-
harvesting efficiency of piezoelectric
devices, as shown in Fig.5.
In that figure, (a) shows a conventional piezoelectric bimorph, which
can generate power mainly in the
stretching direction, while (b) represents a bimorph of auxetic construction.
This can generate power simultaneously in both the stretching and
transverse directions, resulting in an
expected power increase of 176%.
That is because it has increased
power output in the transverse direction, as it can generate more stress in
that direction, and the power output
is proportional to the applied stress.
Clothing has been proposed that
incorporates piezoelectric materials
to generate power for powering or
charging devices. Such fabric utilises
nanofibres and is said to be stretchable and breathable. See siliconchip.
au/link/abxe
Thermoelectricity
Thermoelectricity involves the production of an electric current due to
a thermal gradient between two dissimilar electrical conductors. A typical example of a device that utilises
this effect is a thermocouple, although
it produces tiny amounts of power at
very low voltages.
Peltier devices (Fig.8) also utilise
this effect but with many more thermoelectric junctions. When a current
is applied, it can move heat towards
or away from an object. Alternatively,
when a temperature differential is
applied, it can generate a voltage and
current, and thus be used for energy
harvesting.
Fig.6 (left): polyvinylidene fluoride (PVDF), a piezoelectric material, with deposited electrodes
from a commercial supplier. Source: www.he-shuai.com/pvdf-piezo-film
Fig.7 (right): a commercial piezoelectric energy harvester,
model S118-J1SS-1808YB (from https://piezo.com). It
can produce up to 0.7mW. Source: Piezo S118-J1SS1808YB – siliconchip.au/link/abxv
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.8: a Peltier
device. It uses a
combination of
p-type and n-type
semiconductor
materials to create
thermoelectric
junctions. They
are connected
electrically
in series and
thermally in
parallel. Original
source: https://w.
wiki/AUjV
Electricity can be generated from a
campfire using thermoelectric principles. Fig.9 shows a Peltier device
attached to a heatsink that can generate power from a fire. The CampStove
2 from BioLite can produce up to 3W
to power or charge USB devices (see
siliconchip.au/link/abxa).
The MATRIX Prometheus Thermal Energy Harvesting Module produces power by exploiting small environmental temperature differences,
using the thermoelectric effect. The
most powerful Prometheus device,
the PRMT02-34465, produces up
to 14mA (www.matrixindustries.
com/0234465).
This technology is used to power the
MATRIX Perceptive Health Monitor,
their Proximity Sensor and the PowerWatch (www.powerwatch.com).
Stirling engines
A Stirling engine is a type of heat
engine that can function with very
small heat differences and thus can be
used for energy harvesting from lowgrade heat sources – see Fig.10.
The Stirling engine can be connected to a generator to produce electricity. Stirling engines have been proposed by NASA to produce power on
a future mission to Mars (see page 24
Fig.9: a DIY thermoelectric generator using an off-theshelf Peltier device, heatsink and other components.
Source: https://youtu.be/x9a2rB-xWkY
of the July 2024 issue; siliconchip.au/
Article/14916).
Energy from bacteria
Some exotic bacteria exchange electrons with the environment (‘extracellular electron transfer’ [EET]), so
theoretically, they could be used to
produce electricity. Mechanisms from
these exotic bacteria have been genetically engineered into common E. coli
bacteria. Such an approach could be
used to convert wastewater effluent
streams into electricity.
However, this is very early work
and practical applications are a long
way off. The work was published at
siliconchip.au/link/abxd
Also see the video titled “Scientist
engineered bacteria to generate electricity from wastewater” at https://
youtu.be/beI_qlsmNQ8
Power from plants
A common experiment for children
is (or used to be) to use a lemon, potato
or other fruit or vegetable to make a
basic electrochemical cell (see Fig.11).
Pieces of different metals, such as zinc
and copper, are used as electrodes,
while the juice of the fruit or vegetable
acts as the electrolyte. One such cell
might produce 0.9V at 1mA. Several
lemons can be connected in series to
power one LED.
A fun experiment was once performed to see if a 1000-lemon battery
could start a car. See the video titled
“Can a battery made from 1000 lemons start a car?” at https://youtu.be/
4f2wsQkQ71o
Light can be turned into electrical
energy via the photosynthesis mechanism using bio-photoelectrochemical
cells (BPECs). This early work is
described in the scientific publication
at siliconchip.au/link/abxl
Biomechanical energy from
the human body
Raziel Riemer and Amir Shapiro calculated the energy available from the
Fig.11: a drawing
of a three-lemoncell battery
lighting one LED.
Source: https://w.
wiki/AUjy
Fig.10: the
operating cycle of
a Stirling engine,
which can run
from relatively
low temperature
differentials and
could be used as
part of a generator.
Original source:
https://youtu.be/
hbfkbcdw_OM
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 19
Fig.13: an image from the
Author’s 1989 US Patent
4798206 for “Implanted
medical system including
a self-powered sensing
system” showing an
assembly of piezoelectric
PVDF polymer as the
sensing element (#14).
Fig.12: a biomechanical energy-harvester that mounts on the knee.
Original source: www.researchgate.net/publication/51078340
motion of an 80kg human body under
various circumstances (siliconchip.au/
link/abx9) and found the following
power available:
• heel strike: 2-20W
• ankle motion: 67W
• knee motion: 36W (see Fig.12)
• hip motion: 38W
• movement of centre of mass: 20W
• elbow motion: 2W
• shoulder motion: 2W
They point out that the typical
human body consumes the equivalent
of 800 AA cells (which would weigh
20kg) by burning just 200g of fat.
Cardiac pacemakers
A rough estimate for the energy consumption of an implantable cardiac
pacemaker is around 10-100µW. Over
5-10 years, that amounts to about 0.52Ah. The low power level makes it
an ideal target for energy harvesting.
That would mean, instead of the pacemaker having to be replaced when the
battery goes flat, it could be powered
indefinitely.
Fig.13 shows one of the Author’s
US Patents from 1989 for a pacemaker
“self-powered sensing system”. It
generates electrical signals from the
heart’s motion using a polyvinylidene
fluoride (PVDF) piezoelectric film.
A Seiko Kinetic watch mechanism
was also demonstrated experimentally
to generate power for a pacemaker; see
siliconchip.au/link/abxt
Another option for powering a
pacemaker is an ‘inertia-driven triboelectric nanogenerator’ (I-TENG), as
described at siliconchip.au/link/abxb
Triboelectricity
The triboelectric effect is electric
charge transfer due to two objects rubbing together. For example, a shoe rubbing on a carpet can result in a static
electricity shock to the wearer when
they touch a grounded object.
A ‘drinking bird’ toy can be turned
into a ‘triboelectric hydrovoltaic generator’ using two effects. A temperature differential powers the bird,
while triboelectricity is used to generate power.
Experiments demonstrated such a
generator powering items like liquid
crystal displays, temperature sensors
and calculators. For further details,
see siliconchip.au/link/abxc
A triboelectric nanogenerator
(TENG) is an energy-harvesting device
that generates an electric charge using
the triboelectric effect involving a periodic contact or sliding motion – see
Fig.16. Low currents are produced at
high voltages.
Electret power generators
Fig.16: four modes of triboelectric generators. Original source: www.
researchgate.net/publication/322251641
20
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
An electret is the electrostatic equivalent of a permanent magnet, and a
moving electret can be used to produce power similarly to a magnet.
You would probably be familiar with
electrets in electret microphones; they
serve to bias on the FET within the
microphone capsule in the absence of
an external voltage source.
An electret-based power generator has been demonstrated using
siliconchip.com.au
► Fig.14: an energy-harvesting prototype that
converts vibration into electricity using
MEMS technology and the electret principle.
Original source: www.mesl.t.u-tokyo.ac.jp/
en/research/electret.html
Fig.15: the circuit of the simplest possible crystal
radio using a diode, long wire antenna and highimpedance headphones. Lacking a tuned circuit,
it will receive all stations at once, but in practice,
the strongest station will probably drown out the
rest. Original source: https://w.wiki/AUjt
microelectromechanical (MEMS) principles as described at siliconchip.au/
link/abxi (see Fig.14). The prototype
produced 6µW from an acceleration
of 13.73m/s2 at 40Hz
Power from radio waves
Crystal radios were made by children back in the day and could obtain
useful radio reception without a battery. They were powered by harvesting the energy of the radio wave itself
– see Fig.15.
RF energy can also be harvested
for other purposes using a tuned
antenna and a rectifier that works
at the desired frequency. They must
be close to a source of RF, such as a
WiFi router. Commercial modules to
harvest RF energy include the Powercast P2110B, which converts RF to
DC. It is optimised to absorb energy in
the 850-950MHz range and can provide a regulated output of up to 5.5V
– see Fig.17.
Some YouTube videos demonstrate
harvesting small amounts of power
from commercial radio stations. The
author of the following video manages
to light ten LEDs, although he is only
1.6km from the radio station: “Free
Energy From Radio Waves (https://
youtu.be/_pm2tLN6KOQ). Fig.18
shows another RF-energy-harvesting
circuit.
Peter Parker VK3YE looks at
whether you can harvest enough
power to drive a speaker with a crystal
set next to a commercial radio station
transmitter in the video titled “Crystal
siliconchip.com.au
set under a 100kW radio station: How
does it sound?” at https://youtu.be/
xglEsaNkPSA
cell) is made by inserting two dissimilar metal electrodes in the ground.
Zinc and copper are two metals that
can be used as electrodes. The soil
Würth Elektronik’s energy
must be moist for the cell to work.
harvesting evaluation kit
Multiple cells can be connected to
Würth Elektronik (www.we-online. make a battery.
com/en) offers an energy-harvesting
It is not “free” energy because, as
evaluation kit with several energy- with any cell, one or both of the elecharvesting options – see siliconchip. trodes will eventually be consumed
au/link/abxq
or deteriorate. Also, the ions in the
soil will eventually be depleted,
Earth batteries
and a new location will have to be
An Earth battery (or, more correctly, selected.
Fig.17: a P2110B
energy harvester
module on a
Powercast
evaluation
board. The
module needs a
suitable antenna
and capacitor
to operate.
Source: All
About Circuits
– siliconchip.au/
link/abxw
Fig.18: an energyharvesting circuit
for ambient radio
waves, although the
amount of energy
collected is tiny.
Original source:
https://youtu.be/
XpLCK88nVgU
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 21
The first Earth battery was invented
by Alexander Bain in 1841; he used
zinc and copper electrodes.
From an electrochemical point
of view, there is nothing unusual
about an Earth battery, apart from the
medium being the ground rather than
a more conventional container such as
a battery case.
Power harnessed from Earth batteries should not be confused with telluric currents. Still, telluric currents
might contribute to the overall EMF
of the cell if the electrodes are sufficiently far apart.
Telluric currents
Telluric currents are electrical currents within the Earth or sea induced
by magnetic disturbances from various sources, both natural and artificial. That includes space weather,
such as the solar wind, sunspots and
their interaction with the ionosphere.
They can be a problem for underground and undersea cables and buried pipelines. As they can be influenced by the sun, they vary during the
daily solar cycle.
In the 1800s, problems in telegraph operation were recognised to
be related to telluric currents due to
sunspots. In 1903, W. Finn reported
in Scientific American that an EMF
of 768V with a current up to 300mA
was recorded over hundreds of miles/
kilometres of telegraph lines in 1891.
Telluric currents can be utilised in
mineral exploration, to help locate
areas of changes in the electrical conductivity of rocks that may indicate
mineral deposits.
Gravity batteries
A gravity battery is a type of electromechanical battery where a mass
is raised and then lowered by gravity
to generate electricity. It can be used
as a type of energy storage, powering
a motor to raise the mass when power
is cheap (excess is available) and then
lowering it to generate power when
it is more expensive (when demand
is higher).
We discussed some of these ideas
in our article on Grid-scale Energy
Storage (April 2020; siliconchip.au/
Article/13801).
A gravity-powered light called the
GravityLight was developed for use in
less developed countries (see Fig.19).
It is ‘charged’ by raising a 10kg mass
by 1m and provides light for five minutes by delivering 20mA continuously.
Unfortunately, the project was not a
success.
Hydroelectricity for camping
A portable hydroelectric generator was produced for bushwalkers or
campers (Fig.20). You have to anticipate being in an area with reasonably
fast-running water. That is not always
possible in the Australian bush but
is more realistic in parts of the USA,
Europe or New Zealand. The device
is a bit heavy for many bushwalkers,
at 1.5kg, and appears to be no longer
available.
Electromagnetic fields around
power lines
It used to be a classic demonstration to hold a fluorescent tube under a
high-voltage power line. An electrical
Fig.23: the electric field around highvoltage power lines. The red region is
a reading of >15kV/m. Source: Quora
– siliconchip.com/au/link/abxu
current is induced due to capacitive
coupling, causing the gases in the tube
to fluoresce (see Fig.21). The electric
field around a high-voltage power line
is shown in Fig.23.
There must be a sufficient voltage
differential between both ends of the
tube for it to light. There is a sufficient
electrical field gradient to cause the
tube to glow if held vertically but not
horizontally.
There are many anecdotal accounts
(but few documented cases) from the
USA of farmers and others building
large coils or fences beneath power
lines running across their properties
to harvest power via electromagnetic
induction. It is theoretically possible,
but power theft is still illegal even
when done ‘over the air’.
Very large structures would be
required to obtain useful amounts of
power (to do more than, say, power
some LEDs). With the cost of copper
these days, the cost of the wire would
exceed any worthwhile savings in
electricity, despite the high cost of
power. It would be cheaper to buy
some solar panels and batteries.
Fig.19: the GravityLight
provides 20mA to a small
lamp for five minutes by
slowly lowering a 10kg
weight.
Fig.20: the “WaterLily Turbine”, a
portable hydroelectric generator for
charging USB or 12V devices in a
running stream.
22
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.24: Alfred Traeger demonstrating
the pedal-powered radio he invented
in 1928. Source: https://w.wiki/AUk2
There is an interesting video that
explains how to use a coil and capacitor to make a resonant LC circuit to
harvest enough power to light an LED
from various sources. It is titled “Stealing Electricity (the safe way)” and is at
https://youtu.be/CLS8pbDNHbk
Also see the video titled “Fences
sucking power from under HV transmission lines” at https://youtu.be/
lDm00Ww6qE4
Human-powered generators
While pedal-powered generators
are less common today due to the low
power consumption of LED lights and
the advent of lithium-ion batteries, they
used to be a common way to power
bicycle headlights. They draw power
from the rider’s pedalling (see Fig.22).
They could be either wheel-mounted
(‘bottle dynamos’) or hub-mounted.
They can generate about 3W at 6V
Fig.25: the Author’s collection of hand-cranked devices. The red hand-cranked
torch is from the former Soviet Union and has an incandescent bulb, while the
blue one is a modern Chinese torch with LEDs and a reserve battery. The item at
upper right is a magneto from an old telephone.
(500mA), with some delivering 6W at
12V (also 500mA). Modern hub dynamos such as those from SON can also
be used to recharge batteries or mobile
devices.
In earlier times, electricity was
not readily available in the Outback,
so Alfred Traeger invented a pedal-
powered radio that was used for the
School of the Air and for calling the
Royal Flying Doctor Service (see
Fig.24). The pedal generator produced
around 200V at 100mA (20W). Transceivers from the Traeger Transceivers
company were sold to Nigeria in 1962
and Canada in 1970. For further information about Traeger Transceivers
visit siliconchip.au/link/abxf
A human on a stationary bicycle can
drive a higher-power generator, such
as to charge a laptop. Instructions to
do this are at siliconchip.au/link/abx8
There is a large variety of hand-
Electric shoes
Experimental shoes have been
designed to harvest energy for a variety of possible purposes; one example
Fig.22: a modern bicycle
hub dynamo by SON (https://
nabendynamo.de/en/): Source:
https://w.wiki/AUjW
Fig.21: a fluorescent tube glowing
under a high-voltage power line due
to capacitive coupling of the electric
field.
siliconchip.com.au
cranked devices that generate electricity for lighting or other purposes, such
as those shown in Fig.25.
Many early telephones had a hand
crank magneto that generated 50-100V
AC to ring a bell at the called party’s
end, or alert an operator. While current
for talking was supplied by batteries,
they did not have sufficient power to
ring the bell.
Dynamite plungers were similar,
although they are now obsolete. They
comprised a T-handle attached to a
linear rack gear that engaged with a
circular gear connected to a generator.
When the handle was pressed down,
they generated a brief electrical current to trigger a detonator.
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 23
is shown in Fig.26. That energy-
harvesting combat boot produces elecGPS Transmitter
trical power via compression of bulbs
in the sole of the boot, which drive
Power Management
Module
microturbines to produce electricity
to power a GPS tracker.
Turbine Enclosure
Children’s shoes that light up genAir Bulbs (3x)
erally have batteries and are not
self-powered, as explained in the
video titled “How Light Up Shoes
Work – See What’s Inside Sketchers
Kids Litebeams” at https://youtu.be/
IIlpRgVBDYo
On the other hand, kids’ scooter Fig.26: an energy-harvesting combat
wheels that light up do use a small boot that powers a GPS tracker.
Source: www.researchgate.net/
generator built into the hub.
Power from trains coming
down mountains
On page 79 of the April 1988 issue,
we described how regenerative braking by heavy ore- and coal-laden
trains descending the Blue Mountains in Sydney (from mines in places
like Lithgow) generated a significant
amount of power, which was used to
power passenger and empty freight
trains ascending into the mountains
at the same time.
If ore or other heavy material is
mined from mountains and carried
down to sea level by trains, which then
ascend empty, you effectively have a
publication/325211019
generator powered by the potential
energy of that ore (see Fig.31).
Fortescue is developing an iron
ore freight train in Australia that will
charge batteries as it coasts down hills,
to provide power for the return journey uphill to get more ore.
Power from roads
Energy-harvesting experiments
have been performed for roadways.
Methodologies that have been tried,
shown in Fig.27, include:
• Harvesting thermal differentials
in between pavement and lower levels underground.
• Devices exploiting Faraday’s Law
of Induction to harvest mechanical
energy (a magnetic field will interact
with an electric circuit to produce an
electromotive force).
• Piezoelectric devices to harvest
mechanical energy.
• Solar panels embedded in, around
and above roadways.
Electrodynamic tethers
An electrodynamic tether is a long
wire deployed from an Earth-orbiting
spacecraft – see Fig.28. As it passes
through the Earth’s magnetic field, a
current flow develops, according to
Faraday’s Law of Induction. It can be
used as a power source, but it results
in some drag on the spacecraft.
In 1996, NASA deployed a long
tether from the Space Shuttle Columbia, which generated a potential of
3500V. The tether was intended to be
20.7km long but an electric arc caused
the tether to break after 19.7km had
been spooled out.
It works as follows – ionospheric
electrons are collected from the
positively-
biased anode at the end
of the uninsulated tether. They flow
through the electrical load, then to
the negatively-biased cathode, where
they are discharged into the space
Fig.27: some concepts of energy harvesting from vehicles travelling on roads.
Original source: www.mdpi.com/1996-1073/16/7/3016
24
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
plasma and complete the circuit.
Electrostatic generation from
lunar soil
NASA has proposed harvesting
the electrostatic charge from lunar
soil. The charge builds up over long
periods due to the solar wind. They
propose to collect the charge using a
moving capacitor array that’s ‘raked’
through the lunar soil (see siliconchip.
au/link/abxj).
NASA estimates that a 1/3m2 collecting array could produce a maximum
theoretical power of 147W (700V <at>
0.21A) – see Figs.29 & 30.
Tiny solar cells
Inexpensive, tiny solar cells can be
used to power IoT or sensor devices,
with energy stored in a small battery or cell. Even photodiodes can be
pressed into service to generate power;
see Fig.32.
People in the developed world
might not appreciate it, but for people living in less developed countries, night-time lighting is not always
available and it is highly beneficial
if they can get it. Certain charities,
such as SolarAid (https://solar-aid.
org), produce solar lights for people in
these countries, and donors can also
Fig.31: the ARES rail car, which climbs a hill using electricity during off-peak
hours, then is released downhill during peak hours to produce energy via
regenerative braking. Source: ARES North America – aresnorthamerica.com
buy them for their own use.
Many small solar panels are available for bushwalkers and campers to
recharge devices. Some can be affixed
to backpacks, while others are set
up when camped. However, panels
that are small and light enough to be
affixed to a backpack provide only
small amounts of power. I find that
you typically get to a campsite well
after peak sun. In my experience, it is
better to carry batteries.
Micro hydroelectric schemes
New Zealand YouTuber Marty T
made a ‘microhydro’ installation on
his wilderness property using the
motor from a scrap Fisher & Paykel
Fig.29: the circuit of a theoretical capacitive charge collector with a
differential drain to harvest electrostatic charge from the negatively
charged lunar soil (regolith). Original source: https://ntrs.nasa.gov/api/
citations/20100032922/downloads/20100032922.pdf
Fig.30: a proposed charge
collector with an array
of electron capture blades
that can be raked through
lunar soil to harvest electrostatic
charge. Original source: https://ntrs.
nasa.gov/api/citations/20100032922/
downloads/20100032922.pdf
Fig.28: an electrodynamic tether
deployed from a spacecraft.
Original source: https://w.wiki/AUjv
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 25
Fig.32: a BPW34 PiN photodiode can be used
as a solar cell, producing up to 47µA at
350mV. The coin diameter is 24.26mm.
Source: Core Electronics PRT-09541
– siliconchip.au/link/abxz
Fig.33 (below): a wind turbine that
can be used at a campsite. Source:
Tex Energy – siliconchip.au/link/abxx
Energy harvesting is not new
In 1925, Estonian inventor Hermann Plauson obtained US Patent 1540998 for “Conversion
of atmospheric electric energy”. He proposed harvesting atmospheric electricity with a
network of balloons. H. Gernsback earlier described this idea in “Science and Invention”,
February 1922 (siliconchip.au/link/abxg).
It is unlikely this would have been practical. However, it was claimed in the description
that a single balloon at 274m altitude could provide 400V at 1.8A, which certainly would
be useful if attained! We suspect that it was under unusual atmospheric conditions and
could not be achieved regularly.
SmartDrive washing machine (similar
to how we used one as a generator on
a wind turbine in the December 2004
to March 2005 issues; siliconchip.au/
Series/84).
The motor has to be rewired to
reduce the voltage and increase the
current, to make it more suitable for
charging a battery bank. Details of
motor rewiring are at siliconchip.au/
link/abxk (or refer to our articles), but
many other resources explain how to
do it. Also see this series of videos:
1. https://youtu.be/LVoeaKCEd2o
2. https://youtu.be/lbuvTSWh50U
3. https://youtu.be/8SWq5Pskpug
A US YouTuber decided to see if
he could make a hydroelectric system
powered by rainwater collected on a
roof. He calculated that 2W could be
generated from rain falling on a house
roof and going down the downpipes,
but on his first attempt, he only got
0.19W. On his second attempt, he generated over 0.61W and, on the third
attempt, over 0.91W. Of course, it has
to be raining for this to work.
In Australia, such a system might
work best in the tropics, such as Far
North Queensland.
See the videos for more details:
1. https://youtu.be/S6oNxckjEiE
2. https://youtu.be/YLb4enCgnP4
3. https://youtu.be/vify0k2sHlQ
Portable wind generators
A wind generator can be used for
bushwalking, provided it is anticipated there will be reasonable wind
at the campsite. A model such as the
Infinite Air 5T can produce up to 5V
at 2A and weighs 1.65kg (Fig.33 shows
the larger 3.2kg Infinite Air 18 model).
As with the portable hydroelectric generator, we feel the weight is too high
for most potential use cases.
MEPAP
The energy harvesting idea of Hermann Plauson.
Source: www.reddit.com/r/Air_Fountain/comments/1cc3dx6/
26
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
The MEPAP (“Multipurpose and
source Electricity Generator with Air
Purifier”) is something Heath Robinson or Rube Goldberg might have
dreamt up. It harvests electricity using
vibration (piezoelectric materials),
electromagnetic radiation (metamaterials), electromagnetic induction
(inductive coupling), wind energy
(mini turbine with dynamo) and thermoelectric energy, all to operate an air
purifier device.
It is described at siliconchip.au/
link/abxh, but we don’t know how
well it works.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
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a fast getaway! 5m Anderson cable connection. Note: solar regulator
Provides you with 1500W of continuous pure sine wave mains power, plus the
ability to recharge your batteries via connected solar panels. Ideal for caravans,
RVs and boats - or anywhere you need remote 240V power!
SAVE $20
199
required see website for recommended models.
$
Tyre Pressure
Monitor System
T 5099
This solar powered TPMS
unit sits on your dash
and provides wireless
monitoring of your tyre
pressures. Provides high/
low pressure alarms, leak
detection and temperature
monitoring. Optional signal
booster Q 1302 $95.
Q 1300
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155
$
P 0696A
P 0693
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29
24
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USB 18W PD Socket
& Voltmeter
Bar Graph
LED Volt Meter
Includes QC3.0 3A output,
plus 18W USB C PD. 29mm
mounting hole.
5-15V DC range. Ideal for
monitoring aux batteries.
29mm mounting hole.
Connect-It-All DC Power Hub
Size: 360W x 185H
x 138Dmm.
A complete central power hub for your 4WD, caravan or camping remote
power set up. 6 contura style illuminated rocker switches, 3 car accessory
sockets (12V), USB charger, volt meter, protected by a 6 way weatherproof
fuse block.
Compact DC
Power Hub &
Isolator
Designed to manage
power in your 12V or 24V
vehicle. Measuring just
160x160x80mm, this box
is packed with connections,
including 50A Anderson style
inputs and outputs, 60W USB
charger, 2 x car accessory
sockets.
NEW!
149
$
S 2694
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Workbench Deals!
Q U A L I T Y TO O L S F O R L E S S T H I S M O N T H .
A 0292
T 2164A
Rugged Auto Ranging
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46
$
Perfect for a serious electronics
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Features a striking 9999 count
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Rugged
AC/DC voltage & current
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ru
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A 0291
Pro 72pc Servicing Kit
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A premium quality driver set with a
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Remove those fiddly circlips
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cleaning up 3D prints etc.
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47
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T 2261
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This space efficient work station packs
in loads of features, including 4 flexible
clamp arms, solder reel holder, dry tip
cleaner, container of flux.
1500W
Heat Gun
Perfect for
heatshrink - shrinks
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Exteek C28 Bluetooth 5.0
Audio Transmitter/Receiver
For only
$10.99
(from eBay)
or about $8 (AliExpress), this
little device can act as either an
audio transmitter or receiver. That
means you can create a shortrange wireless audio link, convert
a regular amplifier into a Bluetooth
amplifier, use a CD player with
Bluetooth headphones/earphones
and more.
AC7006F Features (taken from the data sheet)
» CPU: 32-bit dual-issue DSP, up to 160MHz, single-precision FPU with
CORDIC accelerator engine
» SBC & AAC audio decoding supported
» mSBC voice codec supports MP2, MP3, WMA, APE, FLAC, AAC, MP4,
M4A, WAV, AIF and AIFC audio decoding
» Packet Loss Concealment (PLC) for voice processing
» Single/dual mic Environmental Noise Cancellation (ENC)
» Multi-band DRC limiter
» 20-band EQ configuration for voice effects
» Stereo 24-bit DAC, SNR ≥ 102dB
» Stereo 24-bit ADC, SNR ≥ 95dB
» DAC sampling rates of 8kHz, 11.025kHz, 16kHz, 22.05kHz, 24kHz,
32kHz, 44.1kHz, 48kHz, 64kHz, 88.2kHz & 96kHz
» ADC Sampling rates of 8kHz, 11.025kHz, 16kHz, 22.05kHz, 24kHz,
32kHz, 44.1kHz & 48kHz
» Stereo microphone amplifier with built-in bias generator
» Can drive 16Ω & 32Ω speakers
Bluetooth
» Compliant with Bluetooth V5.3+BR+EDR+BLE specification
» Meets class 2 and class 3 transmitting power requirements
» Supports GFSK and DQPSK for all packet types
» Provides a maximum +10dbm transmitting power
» EDR receiver with -94dBm sensitivity
» Fast AGC for enhanced dynamic range
» Supports A2DP 1.3.2, AVCTP 1.4, AVDTP 1.3, AVRCP 1.6.2, HFP 1.8,
SPP 1.2, SMP, ATT, GAP, GATT, RFCOMM 1.1, SDP core 5.3, L2CAP
core 5.3, PNP 1.3 & HID 1.1.1
Review by Allan Linton-Smith
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
T
he device has an internal battery and comes in a neat package
with a 3.5mm to 3.5mm jack,
a charging cable and a user manual. It can be charged from any 5V
USB source and lasts for around four
hours of use (140mAh). The receiver
will power a small speaker or headphones as long as the impedance is
at least 16W.
You can make your average analog
headphones or earbuds into a Bluetooth model by plugging them into
this.
It has many other practical applications. For example, if your TV has
a regular headphone output jack, you
could plug this in, set it to transmit
mode and watch TV using wireless
Bluetooth earphones. Or if you have
a regular analog amplifier or receiver,
plug this in, set it to receive mode and
stream music from your computer,
smartphone or tablet.
You could also use it to convert an
Aux input on an older car to Bluetooth, so you can stream music from
your phone (an application suggested
by the seller).
Its signal-to-noise ratio and handling of low-level signals are good
enough that you could even consider
using it to turn musical instruments
like electric guitars, or even microphones, from wired devices into wireless. The microphone would need to
be battery-powered to become truly
wireless.
The heart of this device is a
BPOY120356F4 chip manufactured
by Zhuhai Jieli Technology Co Ltd
(JL), who describes it as an “AC7006F
Bluetooth Audio Chipset”.
Performance
We tested the performance using a
pair of these as a Bluetooth wireless
audio bridge. That means the performance reflects both the inbuilt ADC
(analog-to-digital converter) of the
transmitter and the receiver’s DAC
(digital-to-analog converter). Therefore, our measurements can be considered a ‘worst-case’, and you will likely
get better results using the transmitter
or receiver alone.
These tests also take into account
the quality of the Bluetooth link itself,
although most of our tests involved a
sinewave signal, which would be a
best-case scenario for a digital compression scheme.
The transmitter unit was connected
September 2024 29
Fig.1: this spectral (FFT) plot of the receiver output shows the 1kHz peak
from the signal being transmitted plus the noise and distortion harmonics at
all other frequencies, which are reasonably low. It is not quite CD quality,
but it is close, with a signal-to-noise ratio of 93.6dB. For comparison, a CD
has a maximum dynamic range of 96dB.
to the audio generator output of an
Audio Precision analyser and then
paired with the receiver, which was
connected to the analyser’s analog
input. Pairing between the devices
was automatic and took only a few
seconds.
With this configuration, we analysed the frequency response, distortion (THD+N) vs frequency, THD+N
vs input level and inter-channel crosstalk. We also measured the signal-tonoise ratio.
To eliminate the 192kHz carrier of
the Class-D amplifier in the receiver,
we used an AP AUX-0025 ‘brick
wall’ filter together with an S-AES17
low-pass filter. These are necessary
to enable accurate measurements
because the slew rate of the analyser
input stage (which uses AD797 op
amps) is too low to handle the digital carrier.
The manufacturer data sheet recommends a minimum load impedance
of 16W, so we added a 32W dummy
resistive load across the output for all
measurements to make them realistic.
Signal-to-noise ratio
We determined the signal-to-noise
ratio by spectral analysis (FFT) of the
receiver output, delivering a 1kHz
sinewave – see Fig.1. The noise spectrum is fairly low. The resulting signalto-noise ratio is 93.6dB, which falls
short of perfection (we would prefer to
get closer to 100dB), but it is suitable
for most domestic uses. It is not far off
from the best dynamic range you can
get from a CD, which is around 96dB.
Remember that this measurement
includes the noise contributions of
both the transmitter and the receiver.
Frequency response
Fig.2: the frequency response between the C28 transmitter and receiver was
surprisingly good, having only a slight 2dB fall-off at the low end. The dip
at the upper end (above 15kHz) is just an artefact of the brick wall filtering
used to remove the residual high-frequency carrier.
With the transmitter and receiver
one metre apart, I injected a swept
frequency signal into the transmitter
at 500mV RMS. Because the signal is
delayed slightly between being fed
to the transmitter and coming out of
the receiver, I had to delay analyser
measurements by 500ms to ensure
accuracy.
Fig.2 shows the resulting frequency
response plot. It is pretty good, with a
slight roll-off below 100Hz, resulting
in a response that is down by 2dB by
20Hz. The 0.5dB dip at the high end is
just an artefact of the ‘brick wall’ filter.
The result was better than expected,
especially compared to older AV
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
30
Silicon Chip
transmitters/receivers we have tested
previously.
Total Harmonic Distortion
The THD+N measurements gave
fairly reasonable results of around
0.04-0.05% across the audio band.
This is a combination of the distortion
of the transmitter’s ADC, the receiver’s
DAC, and the audio power amplifier in
the receiver. Therefore, the distortion
from either the transmitter or receiver
would be lower.
THD+N is usually measured with
80kHz bandwidth, but that is not possible with a brick wall filter as it will
filter out any harmonics above 20kHz
anyway. Given how flat the THD+N
vs frequency plot (Fig.3) is, we don’t
think it would make much difference.
We also measured the THD+N
against the input signal level (Fig.4),
with the 1kHz signal fed to the transmitter swept from 1mV to 2V. It also
turned out to be pretty flat at around
0.02-0.08% THD+N. We think this is
due to the Class-D amplifier; it must
introduce a non-linearity into the output signal that manifests as a floor on
the distortion level.
The receiver started to clip at around
900mV. Still, the distortion was reasonably good even at low input levels, again suggesting that this unit is
suitable for microphone or musical
instrument applications.
It would be possible to use this with
a record player (phono signal). However, you would be better off passing
that signal through an RIAA preamplifier before feeding it to the transmitter.
Fig.3: this plot of THD+N for the left and right channels with the signal
frequency swept is the total distortion generated by the transmitter and
receiver. This distortion level provides generally acceptable sound quality
for domestic purposes.
Availability
We purchased our test units from
eBay, via the link below, but the same
ones appear to also be available from
AliExpress at a slightly lower price:
• eBay 133868488058 (siliconchip.
au/link/abtn).
• AliExpress 1005005459972095
(siliconchip.au/link/abto).
Conclusion
Compared to tests I have conducted
on similar devices, this Bluetooth
transmitter/receiver is excellent value
for money, with reasonably low distortion and noise. It is not perfect, but
you would need to pay significantly
more to improve the quality even
slightly. The inclusion of an internal
battery and output amplifier makes it
very versatile.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.4: THD+N with a 1kHz signal of varying amplitude. The signal starts to
clip at around 900mV, but the distortion is good at low input levels, making
it suitable for microphone or guitar applications.
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 31
PROJECT BY TIM BLYTHMAN
This handy, portable, rechargeable
device combines a clock, timer and
stopwatch and can display different
time zones. It has an internal crystal
and incorporates a WiFi time
source, so it is always accurate,
even if a leap second occurs.
COMPACT
OLED CLOCK/TIMER
Y
OU MIGHT THINK THAT WHAT THIS
CLOCK/TIMER does could easily be
done by an app on a smartphone,
and you are probably right. The March
2018 Editorial Viewpoint (siliconchip.
au/Article/10990) discusses how so
many projects could be ‘just an app’.
However, there is a good reason
to make the Clock/Timer a separate
device. My wife runs a business where
she needs to keep track of time spent
with clients.
Using a phone app to do that tends
to drain the phone’s battery and makes
it difficult to use the phone for other
purposes.
So, a separate device that can keep
track of time has its place. The Compact OLED Clock and Timer also makes
it easier to keep track of time in different time zones. This is another
handy feature if you arrange appointment times with people in different
locations.
It has an alarm feature that is tied to
a ‘home’ timezone. This means that if
you are travelling, you can be alerted
each day at the same time in that zone,
even if you are using the Clock to see
the local time in a different time zone.
This feature is notably absent from
most clock apps.
There are countdown timer and
stopwatch functions that can work in
the background. For example, you can
set the countdown timer running and
then switch to the clock or stopwatch.
The timer will still alert you when it
is finished.
Internally, time is kept by a watch
crystal. An integrated WiFi time source
is also used to keep the time updated
OLED Clock & Timer Features & Specifications
»
»
»
»
»
»
»
»
»
»
»
»
32
Clock with multiple time zones
Automatic daylight saving adjustments
Alarm with day and repeat options
Countdown timer up to 99 hours
Stopwatch up to 99 hours
Rechargeable 600mAh battery
Battery charging and status display
OLED screen with adaptive brightness
Resolution: one second
Crystal timekeeping backed by integrated WiFi time source
Current draw: 15-20mA during operation, 5mA with screen off
Current draw during WiFi operation: up to 80mA (typically for 30s per day)
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
and trim out any crystal errors. Time
is kept to the nearest second, so you
should never be more than a few seconds out.
Compact case
Readers who remember the Pico
Audio Analyser project from November
2023 (siliconchip.au/Article/16011)
will see that the Clock bears a striking
similarity. It uses the same case, a UB5
Jiffy box, and the same user interface
with a small OLED screen and four
pushbuttons.
We think this size and shape work
well for a clock. The box can sit on its
edge with the display clearly visible,
but it is also unobtrusive.
While the form factor is similar, this
design uses a different processor from
the Pico Audio Analyser, and the circuitry is quite different.
Circuit details
The complete circuit diagram of the
Clock/Timer is shown in Fig.1. Instead
of a Pico microcontroller board, it is
controlled by a PIC16F18146 microcontroller (IC1). Since this IC is capable of low-current operation, we can
dispense with the complexity of providing an on/off switch.
Microcontroller IC1, in combination with 32768Hz crystal and its two
4.7pF load capacitors, is responsible
for timekeeping. IC1’s oscillator can
remain operating even when it is in
deep sleep power-saving mode so that
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: microcontroller IC1 keeps time with crystal X1 and displays it on OLED screen MOD1 by updating it over
an I2C serial bus. IC1 can also control the power supply to all other components, keeping the idle current low. The
battery is kept charged by IC2, which also drives LED1 to display the charge status.
it continues to keep track of the passage of time.
IC1 also drives OLED screen MOD1
via an I2C serial bus to update the
display. The display’s power supply
comes from digital output RB4 of IC1
(pin 13), so it is powered down when
not in use by pulling that pin low or
powered by bringing it high. The I2C
bus pullup resistors are on MOD1; IC1
uses ‘bit-banging’ to drive SDA and
SCL since high-speed data transmission is not required.
MOD2 is a Raspberry Pi Pico W
board programmed as a WiFi time
source with an NMEA output compatible with GPS modules. We previously described how that works (June
2023; siliconchip.au/Article/15823).
Important to the operation of the circuit is that the Pico W has a schottky
diode between its VBUS pin, pin 40
(anode) and its VSYS pin, pin 39
(cathode).
This diode feeds microcontroller
siliconchip.com.au
IC1 when USB power is available since
it will supply a higher voltage than the
battery via schottky diode D1. This
arrangement removes the load from
the battery while it is charging, allowing it to charge fully.
The remainder of IC1’s various I/O
pins manage the clock functions and
user interface. A 10kW resistor pulls up
IC1’s reset pin 4 to allow normal operation, except when a programmer is
connected at optional ICSP (in-circuit
serial programming) header CON2.
Four tactile pushbuttons, S1-S4,
connect to pins 8, 16, 12 and 11 of
IC1. These pins are set to have internal pullup currents, so the closure of
the pushbuttons can be detected when
the pin is pulled to ground. Pin 17 is
connected to piezo transducer SPK1
to create alarm sounds.
Pin 13 of IC1 also powers a divider
formed by the 1MW resistor and
LDR1. The 100nF capacitor smooths
the resultant voltage and provides a
Australia's electronics magazine
low-impedance input to IC1’s ADC
(analog-to-digital converter), sampled at pin 10 to measure the ambient light level.
Pin 9 connects to the 3V_EN pin of
MOD2. When this is pulled low by IC1,
the 3.3V regulator on the Pico W is disabled and MOD2 is shut down. If it is
allowed to float, it is weakly pulled up
by the Pico W so it can operate. IC1 can
thus choose to enable the time source
only when needed.
The NMEA data stream from pin 1
on MOD2 is fed to pin 5 of IC1 via a
10kW resistor. Software running on IC1
decodes this data, including the time
the time source has obtained via NTP.
By comparing an internal 2.048V reference to its supply voltage, IC1 can also
monitor the battery level or note that
USB power is being supplied.
IC1 can shut down all of the surrounding circuitry by bringing its
pins 9 and 13 low. The normal operating current draw is dominated by
September 2024 33
Screen 1: the initial screen; if you see
the “NO DATA” message for more than
a few seconds, check that the WiFi
time source’s LED is on or flashing.
Once the time has been acquired,
check that IC1 has shut it down. The
battery life will be severely affected if
the Pico W does not shut down.
Screen 2: this will briefly appear to
show that the time has been updated.
The Clock/Timer can be powered from
the Pico W’s USB socket, allowing
you also to use the time source’s USB
interface for debugging. The 5V lines
of the sockets are joined, so don’t plug
into both simultaneously.
Screen 3: the Clock mode display. The
default time zone is Sydney (the same
as Melbourne, Canberra and Hobart).
To access the settings, press and hold
the MODE button until SETTINGS
appears on the screen. All settings are
kept in EEPROM and generally take
effect immediately.
the OLED module, except for the brief
periods when MOD2 is enabled.
Mini Type-B USB socket CON1 provides 5V power to the circuit. It goes
directly to IC2, an MCP73831 Li-ion
battery charging IC. 10μF bypass/filter
capacitors are provided for its input
and output, while the 10kW resistor
on its PROG pin sets the battery charge
current to 100mA. The battery is connected to the BAT+ and BAT− pads.
IC2 also provides a status indication at its STAT pin. Bicolour LED1
connects between the STAT pin and
a pair of 1kW resistors between the
5V rail and ground. The STAT pin is
low during charging and the red LED
is driven. When charging is complete,
the STAT pin goes high, allowing the
green LED to light.
When 5V power is unavailable, the
STAT pin is high-impedance and LED1
does not light. The power from the battery feeds IC1 via schottky diode D1.
IC1 is powered at pins 1 and 20, with
the standard 100nF bypass capacitor
across them.
copper layer and solder mask to create
an outline resembling a battery icon.
Unlike the Analyser, we have
designed the front panel PCB to sit over
the edge of the enclosure rather than
recess into it. This makes the Clock
slightly deeper, giving more room for
the battery and other components.
While we generally use USB-C sockets for power these days, we have stuck
with a mini Type-B USB socket here
to save a little more space; the USB-C
sockets require two extra resistors to
communicate the role of the device.
The various headers connect via
surface-
m ounting pads, allowing
wires to connect to devices in the
space behind the PCB. The battery
and speaker are both on flying leads
to allow this.
Parts List – OLED Clock and Timer
We’ve crammed an awful lot into
a small enclosure, so we’ve opted for
some creative assembly options. Readers familiar with the Pico Audio Analyser will recall the arrangement of the
pushbuttons and OLED display, which
are reverse-mounted to protrude or
show through the PCB that also forms
the enclosure’s front panel.
The LDR peeks through a hole in the
front of the case too, while the LED
shines through the PCB substrate from
the back of the panel. We’ve used the
1 double-sided PCB coded 19101231, 83 × 53mm
1 UB5 Jiffy box (83 × 53 × 30mm) – translucent blue recommended
1 single AA cell holder with flying leads
1 14500 (AA-sized) Li-ion rechargeable cell with nipple
(LiFePO4 type recommended)
1 1.3-inch (33mm) OLED module (MOD1) [Silicon Chip SC5026 or SC6511]
1 Raspberry Pi Pico W programmed as WiFi Time Source for GPS Clocks
(MOD2) [Firmware: siliconchip.com.au/Shop/6/188]
4 reverse-mount SMD tactile switches (S1-S4) [Adafruit 5410]
1 SMD mini-USB socket (CON1)
1 5-pin male header, 2.54mm pitch (CON2; optional, for ICSP)
2 4-pin male headers, 2.54mm pitch (for MOD2)
1 single-pin header (for MOD2)
1 100kW (light) to 10MW (dark) 5mm LDR (LDR1) [Jaycar RD3480]
1 32768Hz watch crystal (X1)
1 passive piezo element (SPK1) [Digi-Key 433-PT-1306T-ND]
1 small tube of neutral-cure silicone sealant or similar
4 small self-adhesive rubber feet (optional)
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F18146-I/SO microcontroller programmed with 1910123A.HEX,
SOIC-20 (IC1)
1 MCP73831-2ACI/OT Lithium battery charge regulator, SOT-23-5 (IC2)
1 SS34 40V 3A schottky diode, DO-214 (D1)
1 bi-colour red/green 3mm LED (LED1)
Capacitors (all M3216/1206 size, X7R ceramic unless noted)
2 10μF
2 100nF
2 4.7pF C0G (to suit crystal X1)
Resistors (all M3216/1206 size, 1% ⅛W)
1 1MW
3 10kW
2 1kW
34
Short-form kit (SC6979; $45): includes all parts except the case & Li-ion cell
PCB arrangement
Silicon Chip
Screen 4: the OK button will cycle
through the available fonts used for
all large time displays. The UP and
DOWN buttons trim the horizontal
position of the display. Adjust the
position until the box characters in
both lower corners look the same as
the one between the arrows.
Screen 5: MODE cycles between the
SETTINGS pages. GPS refers to the
time source; its maximum runtime
can be set on this page. You can
manually trigger a time update with
the OK button. The TRIM value is
zero initially but will update as the
timekeeping is adjusted daily.
Screen 6: test tones are played while
this screen is showing. Press OK to
toggle between the alarm clock tone
and the countdown tone, then use
the UP and DOWN buttons to choose
which tone to use for each. If you
don’t hear a tone, there may be a
problem with your piezo speaker.
The Pico W only needs connections
on a handful of its pins; it is mounted
behind the OLED module. The design
of the time source puts all of its active
pins at one end, which helps everything fit into the case.
reprogramming the Pico W or changing the WiFi time source settings.
With a small amount of flash memory spare in the chip, we have added
alternative fonts to provide some novelty to the main timekeeping display.
There are also six different alarm
tones, so you can choose your preferred alert sounds for the clock alarm
and countdown timer.
These sounds are provided by combining a PWM signal with a UART
(serial data) signal through the CLC
peripheral. The rise and fall of the
serial data modulates the signal, giving different tone patterns. Once the
pattern is activated, it plays with no
further processor input.
The details of the software operation and user interfaces will be discussed later.
you have the right gear. Our PIC Programming Adaptor from September
2023 (siliconchip.au/Article/15943)
has examples of SMD-to-DIP adaptors
that can be used to do this.
Otherwise, you will have to make
a temporary connection to the CON2
ICSP header after the chip is installed.
You can see a header in some of our
photos; this is what we fitted to CON2
to help with repeated programming
during software development.
Programming the Pico W module
can be easily done before or after soldering it. Simply connect it to a computer using a standard USB cable. See
the panel on setting up the WiFi time
source for more details.
Software
The watch crystal is used by a timer
on IC1 to generate an interrupt once
every second, making accurate timekeeping a priority. Every second, the
clock is advanced; if the timer or stopwatch is active, they are also updated.
It keeps track of time internally as
UTC (universal coordinated time) and
calculates offsets based on the time
zone and daylight saving status. All
the Australian and New Zealand time
zones are inbuilt; it also has a custom
timezone that can be set to any time
zone that is a multiple of 15 minutes
from UTC (we aren’t aware of any that
are not).
The clock can display the current time in any of the time zones by
selecting them. A ‘home time zone’ is
selected, which is used to check the
alarm. Every 24 hours, the WiFi time
source is activated and the time is
checked and updated (if necessary).
The Clock/Timer also checks how
much drift has occurred and provides an internal correction for up
to 24 seconds of drift per day. Watch
crystals are typically well within that
tolerance.
The WiFi time source can also be
manually activated. A switch in the
settings menu allows the Pico W that
acts as the WiFi time source to be
powered up. This can be handy for
siliconchip.com.au
Programming the chips
If your PIC16 microcontroller (IC1)
is not programmed, you might find it
easier to do it before soldering the chip to the board if
Construction
The Clock/Timer is built on a double-
sided PCB coded 19101231 that measures 83 × 53mm. The design necessitates surface-mount construction, so
you will need the usual surface-mount
gear such as a fine-tipped soldering
iron (a medium tip can be
The SMD parts are
fitted conventionally,
although we
recommend
splaying the leads
of S1-S4 so their
stems project
more through
the panel. Note
how we’ve
fitted leaded
parts like the crystal,
LDR and LED. At this stage,
the board can be powered from CON1
and (with IC1 programmed) you can confirm
that the OLED and pushbuttons work.
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 35
Screen 7: the alarm clock is always
based on the HOME timezone, which
can be set here. Pressing OK also
allows you to set the parameters for
a custom time zone, including the
default offset and when daylight
saving starts and ends. This defaults
to Greenwich Mean Time (GMT).
Screen 8: the last SETTINGS screen
lets you return to regular operation
and manually power the time source
on and off with the UP and DOWN
buttons. This is handy if you ever
need to change the settings on the
time source or update its firmware. It
switches off when you exit SETTINGS.
Screen 9: this shows an alternative
font. The available time zones can be
viewed by pressing the UP and DOWN
buttons while the clock is showing.
Pressing OK toggles between a 12hour (AM and PM) or 24-hour clock.
AM is shown by the letter A, PM by P
and 24-hour mode with no letter.
Fig.2: the PCB is populated mainly with surface-mounting components, plus a
handful of through-hole parts fitted in surface-mounting fashion. This figure is
shown at 140% of actual size for clarity.
OK if you have some experience), flux
paste, solder-wicking braid, tweezers,
a magnifier and a good light source.
You should have some sort of fume
extraction gear; a fan close to your
workspace pointing out an open window may be sufficient. You could also
work outside or right next to an open
window, which might also help with
illumination.
Note that some through-hole components are fitted in a surface-mounting
fashion. You can get an idea of how
these are installed by examining Fig.2,
the PCB component overlay diagram,
and the photos of the partially and
fully populated PCB.
Start by soldering IC1 and IC2. IC1
must have its pin 1 marker aligned
with that on the silkscreen, while IC2
will only fit one way as it has two pins
on one edge and three on the other.
Apply flux to the PCB pads and rest
the chips in place.
Tack one lead on each and check
that the pins are aligned with the pads
before soldering the others. If solder
bridges form across any pin pairs,
apply more flux and use the braid to
draw out the excess.
Fit CON1 next. It has plastic locating lugs on its underside, making it
easy to position. Solder the smaller
pins and confirm that the part is flat
against the PCB, then secure the larger
pins with a generous amount of solder
to ensure that the connector is firmly
attached.
There are three different capacitor
values (two of each), so do not mix
them up, as they will not be marked
with their values. Like the other parts,
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
36
Silicon Chip
Screen 10: the alarm symbol in the
upper-right corner flashes while the
alarm is sounding. Pressing OK stops
the alarm. The top of the screen shows
the battery status (voltage) display if
USB power is not available. During
a WiFi time source update, this will
show “GPS”.
Screen 11: pressing MODE switches
to the Countdown Timer; you can
then press OK until the SET screens
appear. The UP and DOWN buttons on
these screens change the clock’s hours,
minutes and seconds. The TIMER
PAUSED status is shown when the
timer is ready to start counting down.
Screen 12: pressing OK after setting
the countdown time returns to the
main Timer screen. Pressing UP will
start (or resume) the Timer or pause it
if it is running. DOWN will reset the
Timer if it is paused or has expired.
This screen shows the third font that’s
available (refer to Screen 4).
use some flux and tack one lead in
place.
Confirm that the position is correct and that the first joint has solidified before soldering the other lead.
Refresh the first lead if necessary (eg,
with a touch of flux paste).
Follow by fitting the resistors similarly, then move on to D1, the schottky
diode. Ensure that its cathode stripe
is towards the K marking before soldering it. If this diode is reversed,
power from the USB socket could feed
directly into the battery, which would
be catastrophic!
Next, mount the three through-hole
components. Keep the lead offcuts
from these, as they can be used to
mount the OLED module later. Look
closely at the photos since they are all
arranged in a specific way.
Crystal X1 is fitted so that it can be
glued against IC1 later. It is not polarised, so it does not matter which lead
goes to which pad. Splay the leads
slightly to suit the pad spacing and
bend them in an arc. They might also
have to be trimmed. Once you have
the leads adjusted, solder one to its
pad, then tweak the leads if necessary
before soldering the other lead.
For LDR1, trim one lead to around
5mm and bend it in a 180° arc. You can
leave the other lead at its full length to
ease handling. Press the LDR into the
hole and tack the short lead in place.
Adjust the position and orientation, if
necessary, with the aim of having the
front of the LDR flush with the outside of the PCB.
Then cut down the other lead and
bend it into position over the other
pad. Solder the second lead and
refresh the first if necessary.
LED1 is a bit more tricky. The K
cathode marking refers to the green
LED of the bicolour device. So it’s best
to test the LED as some are marked
(with the flat or longer lead) with reference to the red LED instead. Set a
DMM on diode test mode and probe
the leads. The red probe will indicate
the anode of whichever colour LED
lights up, and the black lead (cathode).
Bend the leads in the shape shown
in the photos so that they reach the
pads below. We’ve left quite a bit of
lead on our prototype to make it easier to position and aim the LED so it
shines towards the cutout in the solder mask on the back of the PCB.
The finished board,
ready to be mounted in the case. The
Pico W for the WiFi time source is mounted over the
back of the OLED screen while silicone sealant secures the battery leads.
We attached our piezo with header pins, but you can use flying leads. We
inserted standard headers from the top of the Pico W’s PCB so it would sit at the
right height. Note the single-pin header on the right to add some mechanical strength.
There is about 2mm between the Pico W and the OLED module underneath it.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 37
Screen 13: when the Timer finishes,
you will see the hourglass symbol
flashing in the corner of the display
and hear the Timer tone. Press DOWN
to stop the alert and reset the Timer.
The Alarm and Timer icons and tones
will occur in any operating mode
except possibly SETTINGS.
Screen 14: the Stopwatch is much
simpler than the other modes. It
is started, resumed or paused by
pressing the UP button and can be
reset while paused with the DOWN
button. The timings are only updated
every second by the timer interrupt.
Screen 15: pressing MODE takes you
to the Alarm clock setup. Press OK to
cycle between the options, with UP
increasing or enabling the setting and
DOWN decreasing or disabling it. You
can set the time to the nearest minute,
choose days of the week, whether the
alarm repeats and whether it is on.
Cleanup
doing this, ensure the OLED is square
and symmetrical within the cutout.
At this stage, the assembly should
look like the earlier partially completed PCB photo. The circuit is complete enough to do a basic test. If you
still need to program IC1, do so before
proceeding.
It is safe to apply power to the circuit
via the programming header, CON2.
Alternatively, you can apply power
to the board by plugging a USB cable
into CON1. The OLED should light
up, and the LED will probably show
both red and green because no battery
is attached.
Check the voltage on the BAT+ terminal relative to BAT− (which is also
circuit ground). It should be no more
than 4.3V. If there are any problems,
verify that diode D1 is correctly orientated.
The display will show a countdown
from 60 seconds. If the countdown is
not proceeding, there may be a problem with crystal X1.
a sharp hobby knife to trim the hole to
fit the USB socket comfortably.
Check that no parts prevent the PCB
from sitting flush against the case.
We’ve squeezed everything in tightly,
but nothing should stop the case from
closing.
If you have soldered a header to the
CON2 ICSP pads, that could clash with
the pillar inside the case. We found
that trimming the plastic on the header
was enough to prevent that, but you
might consider removing the header
if you only fitted it for programming
IC1 initially.
Now is a good time to clean off any
flux residue and closely inspect the
board before proceeding to the next
step. Use your flux’s recommended
solvent or some isopropyl alcohol to
dissolve the flux and then allow the
board to dry thoroughly.
Scrutinise the board with a magnifier to double-check that everything
is soldered correctly and that there
are no bridges. IC2 and CON1 have
closely spaced pins, so look at them
carefully.
Next, fit tactile switches S1-S4. The
reverse mounting types are pretty
nifty, but they will benefit from having their leads splayed back slightly to
give the switch stems a bit more length
projecting through the front of the PCB.
Tack one lead on each switch in place
and tweak the position so that they are
centred in their holes.
It’s worth spending some time getting this right, as it looks much better with the stems centred. It also
eliminates the possibility of the
stems binding. When you are happy,
use a generous amount of solder to
mechanically secure all four leads on
each switch.
The next job is fitting OLED module
MOD1. Attach a lead offcut to each of
the four small PCB pads for MOD1,
then thread the OLED over them,
ensuring that the protective film is
removed and the module is flat against
the main PCB.
Solder the offcuts to the main PCB.
The two large holes along the lower
edge can be similarly attached to the
large pads on the PCB below. Before
38
Silicon Chip
Setting it up
If you haven’t already done so, prepare the WiFi time source according
to the instructions in the panel opposite. It’s possible to program a Pico W
in place or even modify its settings,
but this is done more easily before it
is attached to the PCB.
Male header strips are used to solder
Case cutting
The only necessary hole in the case
is to allow the USB socket, CON1, to
protrude out the side. Fig.3 shows the
measurements, but this one is relatively easy to do by eye, especially if
you use a transparent case like ours.
Rest the PCB just inside the case with
the USB socket against the wall of the
case. You should be able to mark the
outline of the socket using a pencil
or similar.
Perform the downward cuts most of
the way and then carefully flex the tab
formed by the cuts. You can then use
Australia's electronics magazine
Fig.3: it is easy to cut out the small
rectangular region for the USB socket
by eye, allowing you to make it a snug
fit. Here are the suggested dimensions
of the cut if you wish to measure it out
first (viewed from outside the box). All
dimensions are in millimetres.
siliconchip.com.au
the Pico W to the PCB. Locating it
behind the OLED module is the only
way to get enough clearance to also fit
the battery inside the enclosure. The
bottom of the Pico W should be about
5mm above the PCB, leaving about a
2mm gap between the OLED module
and the Pico W.
We achieved the correct height on
our prototype by soldering the pin
headers with the plastic shrouds above
the Pico W’s PCB. You can see the remnants of the shrouds in the photos (we
trimmed off the tops of the pins).
Solder the two rows of four-pin
headers to the USB end of the Pico
W, keeping the pins square. Check
that your positioning allows enough
space to plug a USB cable into the
Pico W; the cable’s bezel should just
clear the CON1 USB socket on the
main PCB.
Solder the tips of one of the pin
headers to the main PCB and check
that everything is aligned. Next, solder the single-pin header from pin 20
of the Pico W to the main PCB. There
is a pad for this adjacent to D1.
When everything looks correct,
you can proceed to add a fillet of
solder from each of the Pico W pins
back to the main PCB, securing it.
Trim any excess height from the pins
to give the battery as much clearance
as possible.
Solder the battery holder to its terminals marked BAT+ and BAT−, taking great care that the polarity is correct. The way we installed the battery holder in the case allowed us to
shorten the red (BAT+) wire.
Also solder the piezo element to the
SPK1 pads. We used header pins, but
you could use flying leads (such as offcuts from the battery leads) to allow
the piezo to be glued to the case. In
that case, we also recommend drilling
a hole in the case to enable the sound
to escape.
Now glue the battery holder into
the case as shown in the photos. Also
apply neutral-cure silicone sealant
to the BAT+ and BAT− terminals to
insulate the pads and secure the wires
mechanically.
If you have the piezo on flying leads,
glue it to the case now. You can also
add a dab of glue to the crystal to
secure it to the top of IC1. After that,
wait for all the adhesive to cure fully.
Now insert the battery into the
holder. The screen should light up,
and you should see the LED on the
siliconchip.com.au
Setting up the WiFi time source
The June 2023 project article for the WiFi Time Source for GPS Clocks (siliconchip.au/
Article/15823) details how the time source works, but this overview should have enough
information for you to set it up.
You will need a Raspberry Pi Pico W microcontroller board programmed with the time
source firmware, which can be downloaded from siliconchip.au/Shop/6/188
Hold the white BOOTSEL button of the Pico W while connecting it to a computer. This
will put it into bootloader mode, and you should see a drive named “RPI-RP2” appear.
Copy the “NEW_CLAYTONS_1.uf2” file to that drive to upload the firmware.
If all is well, the LED on the Pico W should light up, the drive should disappear, and
you will have a virtual USB serial port available. Use a serial terminal program like Tera
Term on Windows to connect to the port (you could use minicom on Linux).
Set the terminal to use CR or CR+LF as the line ending and press Enter. It should then
show the status and command menu. The following is not a comprehensive overview of the
time source’s capabilities, but it will be sufficient to program it for use with the Clock/Timer.
Use command 9 (press the 9 key followed by Enter) and then enter the two-letter
country code (eg AU, NZ, US, UK etc). If you are likely to use the Clock internationally,
the global “XX” setting is safest.
Next, use command 8 (8, Enter) to save that setting to flash and follow with command
J (capital J, Enter) to reboot the time source. This ensures the WiFi radio is initialised
with the correct country code at power-up.
Use command 1 to run a scan of WiFi networks. The nearby networks should be
listed with a number next to each one. Then run command 4 with one of the listed numbers as a parameter. For example, if your home WiFi network is listed first, as number
0, type 40, then Enter.
You will then be prompted for the password; type it, then press Enter again. Use command 7 to test the network and, if all is well, use command 8 to save the settings to flash
memory. Use J to reboot again and check that the time source connects to the network.
The LED should change from solid to flashing when it successfully connects to a network. Flashes occur in groups of three if everything is working and the time has been
acquired from the NTP service. You can add multiple networks by running commands
1, 4, 7 and 8 when in the vicinity of each network.
If you see groups of three flashes, the time source is working as expected. If you
run into problems, you can also examine the output and debugging data to determine
the source of the problem. Many other settings are available, but there is little need to
change any of them. The Compact Timer has been designed to work with the WiFi time
source’s default configuration.
With the important pins at one end of the Pico W, near the USB connector, it’s
easy to connect to the Clock/Timer PCB without using up much space. Pins
1, 3, 37, 38, 39 and 40 are used in the circuit, while pins 2, 4 and 20 are also
connected to add mechanical stability.
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 39
Pico W come on after a second. Carefully fit the PCB into the case, being
careful not to pinch any wires.
Attach the rubber feet to the bottom edge of the box to complete the
assembly. Now is a good time to plug
in a USB cable to charge the battery
fully.
Setup and usage
The Compact OLED Clock &
Timer mounts in the smallest Jiffy
box, UB5 size. We have chosen an all-blue colour
scheme. The controls are simple and, once configured, it
will always keep time to within a few seconds. The Clock/Timer is shown in its
lowest power mode – use the MODE button to switch to the Clock display, then
hold the OK button until this screen appears. It will wake when the OK button
is pressed again, if an alarm occurs or the countdown timer expires.
The Clock/Timer will attempt to
set the time via NTP when powered
on, so allow that to happen. We’ve
included several screenshots of the
Clock and Timer in various states.
Refer to those screen captions for the
basics of setting up and using it, in
the order shown.
The low power mode (with the
screen off) can be activated by holding the OK button in the Clock Mode.
When the SLEEPING message appears,
release the button. Pressing OK again
will reactivate the display.
The alarm and timer will also reactivate the display when they sound
their respective alert tones. If both
alerts are active, their tones and icons
will alternate.
The software is set to perform several actions at five minutes past the
hour (relative to UTC). This is when
the clock trimming will occur if you
wish to observe it. The automatic time
updates occur at five minutes past UTC
midnight. That will be, for example,
10:05am in Sydney or 11:05am during
daylight saving time.
The crystal trimming routine needs
two synchronisations before it will
make adjustments, so you might have
to wait a day or two before the trimming settles. Once that has occurred,
the clock should always be within two
seconds of the correct time.
Operation of the LDR and OLED
brightness is fully automatic. Small
adjustments are made so that the
changing brightness is not noticeable; it can take up to a minute to settle after a change in ambient lighting.
If you find the OLED is too bright, try
decreasing the value of the 1MW resistor in series with the LDR.
Summary
The LED and LDR are standard through-hole parts that have been surfacemounted to avoid solder joints on the front of the PCB (see Fig.2). We have also
splayed out the leads of the switches to bring them closer to the PCB.
40
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
The Compact OLED Clock and
Timer is a portable and easy-to-use
device that boasts features that even
some clock apps do not. Once set up,
it will maintain time within a few seconds as long as it can connect to a WiFi
network daily.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
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CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions will be paid for at
standard rates. All submissions should include full name, address & phone number.
Dashcam power control
This power control circuit fulfills
the need to switch 12V vehicle power
on/off to a dashcam when an ‘accessory’ feed is not readily available. The
circuit works by detecting the battery
voltage to determine the engine state.
The standby (quiescent) current drain
is ~250μA when the engine is off.
Finding a cable route for switched
(accessory) power from the dash to the
top of the windscreen was problematic
in my car due to airbags behind the
windscreen pillar trims. Wires pushed
behind the pillar trim could tangle
with the airbags during deployment
or jam the trim, potentially interfering
with the airbags.
However, there was a convenient
non-switched battery line in the roof
cabin light. My solution was to design
a low-power circuit that operates from
the battery line in the cabin light. It
only switches power on to the dashcam when the engine is running. The
circuit could be used for powering
other devices where an accessory feed
is not readily available, eg, in the boot,
or even as a low-voltage cutout.
It determines if the engine is on
or off by measuring the battery voltage. When the voltage is below about
12.9V, it is assumed the engine is not
running because the alternator is not
charging the battery; hence, the power
to the dashcam is switched off. When
the battery voltage is above 13.4V, it is
assumed the engine is running and the
power to the dashcam is switched on.
Note that this arrangement is not
suitable for cars that do not continuously charge the battery.
siliconchip.com.au
These voltage thresholds provide
hysteresis & trigger points and are software adjustable. Software filters and
delays are also programmed to ignore
short voltage drops due to switching
transients (eg, lights or air conditioning) and longer engine cranking.
The microcontroller achieves very
low power consumption by going into
deep sleep for one second. It will then
wake up and measure the battery voltage, taking around 3ms. If the voltage
is below the threshold (eg, 12.9V), the
microcontroller returns to deep sleep
for another second. This lowers the
average consumption to 0.3% of the
micro’s normal operating current.
As a result, the average ‘sleep’ (off)
current is dominated by the quiescent
current of regulator REG1 and the voltage divider for monitoring the battery.
The source code has comments to
explain its operation. All voltage and
timer values are set in the source code.
Due to the use of deep sleep mode, it
is advisable to use the “Hard-reset”
procedure to reprogram the PICAXE,
as per the PICAXE manual, section 1.
The battery input is fed via a 1.5A
fuse to the regulator for the microcontroller power supply (REG1), the load
(dashcam) and the 47kW/22kW voltage
divider, which reduces the battery
voltage to a level suitable for measuring by microcontroller IC1. Zener
diode ZD2 protects the microcontroller’s analog input pin P4.
The microcontroller power supply
uses a very low quiescent current linear regulator (MCP1703), which has an
input limit of 16V. This is borderline
for a nominal 12V system. Hence,
REG1’s input is limited to 15V by zener
diode ZD1 and a 100W series resistor.
REG1 is available in SMD (SOT-23)
and through-hole (TO-92) packages.
The microcontroller used is a
PICAXE-08M2, which has a deep sleep
(Nap) mode. It would be possible to
use an ATtiny85 with the same deep
sleep strategy, but the software would
need to be rewritten.
The microcontroller measures the
voltage at pin 3 (analog input P4),
which is proportional to the battery
voltage, and generates an output on
pin 6 (digital output P1). The latter
drives NPN transistor Q1 via a 3.3kW
current-limiting resistor. A 10kW pulldown resistor ensures that Q1 is off
when the IC1 is in deep sleep.
Q1 drives the gate of P-channel Mosfet Q2, which in turn applies power
to the load (dashcam). When IC1 is in
deep sleep, its output is off (0V), so Q1
is also off and the 10kW pull-up resistor holds Q2 off. When IC1 switches
its output on (to 5V), Q1 is biased on
and pulls the gate of Q2 to ground
(0V), switching Q2 on and applying
12V to load.
This switching arrangement is
designed to avoid pull-up resistors
that would draw current when in sleep
mode. Q2 is amply rated for driving
various loads besides a dashcam, but
some modifications may be required
(eg, changing the fuse) if the load will
draw more than 1A.
You can download the PCB design,
along with the software for this project from: siliconchip.au/Shop/6/474
George Mackiewicz,
Vermont, Vic. ($80)
Electronically-controlled ball maze game
This puzzle involves controlling a
metal ball through a labyrinth so that
the ball reaches the finish point. Many
of you will have seen the manually-
controlled version of this game, using
knobs and strings. In this version, you
move the maze swivel base using a
joystick controlling two micro servo
motors.
The course is split into six stages of
similar distance, each with a proximity sensor registering the time taken
to reach it.
If the time taken to finish a stage
is less than any previously achieved
saved time, the LCD will confirm this
as a ** NEW RECORD ** and save it
so that only the best times are always
visible when requested.
When powered up, the table will
automatically tilt so the ball can be
placed safely in the START area. You
will have the option to view top scores
or play. The table is made level and
control is passed to the joystick if
play is selected. If the ball is lost, the
computer will ask whether to start a
new game.
The most complex part of building
the maze is making the plywood tilting maze board. The full instructions
for doing that are part of the download
from siliconchip.com.au/Shop/6/482
The maze board is mounted within
the box on a universal joint; instructions on making that are also included.
The servo motors mount in the corners
of the box and pull on the corners of
the horizontal maze board via sleeved
lengths of piano wire so they can tilt
it in any direction.
The main electronic circuit uses
the 44-pin Micromite described in
the August 2014 issue (siliconchip.
au/Article/7960), as the 28-pin Micromite doesn’t have enough spare I/Os
for this job. It has to monitor the optical sensors and mini joystick and also
drive the 16×2 LCD and the two servo
motors.
The main circuit shows how the
44-pin Micromite PIC chip, which
can be a PIC32MX150F128D or PIC32MX170F128D, connects to the
headers for interfacing with the LCD,
optical sensors etc. There is a basic
onboard power supply to derive the
regulated 3.3V rail required from an
external 5V supply.
The separate circuit snippet shows
how the reflective optical sensors are
configured; CON1 in that circuit connects to CON1 on the main circuit, and
the two CON2s in each circuit are also
joined. Each sensor is powered from
the incoming 5V DC rail, with 150W
current-limiting resistors for the internal LEDs and 10kW pull-down resistors on the phototransistor emitters.
OPTO1-OPTO5 and OPTOFIN track
the ball’s progress through the maze
while OPTOLOST detects if it has
fallen through a hole in the maze and
out the hole in the side of the base.
As the sensors are powered from 5V,
their outputs go to 5V-tolerant inputs
on the PIC chip. The optical sensor
resistor values have been chosen so
those pins will sense a digital high or
low value depending on whether the
sensor is triggered.
Besides monitoring those, the firmware’s main job is to track the joystick’s
position and send signals to the servo
motors so they follow the joystick’s
movements.
The joystick is connected to analog
inputs at pins 26 & 27 as the voltage
output from the joystick is what determines the servo pulse width. The two
servo motors and the LED screen are
powered directly by the 5V supply.
The servo motor operating the Y-axis
will need a short extension cable,
about 300mm long. When connecting the extension cable to the servo,
take note of the correct cable colours
to avoid incorrect connections. The
wires from the servo are red (+5V),
black or brown (GND) and yellow or
orange (control signal).
The MMBasic program to tilt the
maze board works out the mid-range
of the joystick X and Y voltages, multiplies the difference by a constant
(usually 0.5) and then adds the minimum pulse width of 0.5 (PWMin). The
Yoffset and Xoffset values are added
to achieve the correct board horizontal
balance. The optical sensors activate
the 7 INTH interrupts in the software.
Although the TCRT1000 sensors
have daylight-blocking filters, they
are still sensitive to some ambient
light, so they may be triggered when
exposed to light from different directions. Covering the sensor area with
a thin black plastic strip and painting
the ball collector and external tray
areas black will assist in avoiding
unwanted triggering.
I have designed a PCB in EAGLE;
that file is available as part of the
download package, along with Gerber
files. When soldering the opto board
components, start with the small SMD
resistors and attach the sensors last.
The TCRT1000 sensors must be soldered so that the sensor’s top edge is
about 10mm from the PCB face.
The main board is designed to allow
the double-sided PCB to be etched,
with the via links manually added
using thin copper wire, eg, stripped
from Bell wire.
Gianni Pallotti,
North Rocks, NSW. ($150)
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 47
Mains Earthing Systems
The Earth is an integral part of our power system. It can be used
to improve electrical safety, reduce energy losses or save on the
cost of a dedicated conductor. Here, we look at the different
Earthing systems used worldwide and how they work.
By Brandon Speedie
T
he Earth’s crust is moderately conductive thanks mainly to the salts
of sodium dissolved in water and, to
a lesser extent, elements such as calcium, potassium, and magnesium.
These charge carriers can move freely
through soil and rock as long as they
remain dissolved in water. The result
is a surprisingly conductive electrolyte – see Fig.1.
There are two broad reasons for
using the Earth as a conductor.
As a functional conductor
The most obvious use of the Earth
is to save on the cost of a dedicated
conductor. One example is the Single
Wire Earth Return (SWER) line, a common way to distribute power in rural
0.01
0.1
1
areas. In this case, a significant cost
saving can be achieved by only having a single overhead conductor on a
power line (see Figs.2 & 3).
The return current (for Neutral)
flows through the soil back to the substation or generator. This can sometimes be a distance of hundreds of
kilometres.
The Earth is also commonly used in
RF applications. A monopole antenna
relies on a ground plane to radiate
and receive effectively, a role very
commonly allocated to ‘terra firma’
(Latin for “firm land” or perhaps “solid
ground”).
Another application of Earth is on
grid-scale solar farms. Solar panels
are effectively three-terminal devices;
Resistivity (Ωm)
10
100
1000
10,000
(igneous rocks:
igneous and
metamorphic rocks
mafic
felsic) mottled duricrust
zone
saprolite
Safety
Perhaps the most prominent function of Earth is to provide electrical
100,000
massive sulfides
graphite
they have a positive output, a negative
output and a frame or chassis.
If the frame is left electrically unconnected, it can float to a different voltage
from its other two terminals. Charge
carriers will then begin to migrate out
of the substrate in a process known as
Potential Induced Degradation (PID).
This leads to reduced yield and eventually, early failure.
On commercial solar farms, care is
taken to ensure the panel mounting
solution is well bonded to Earth and
that the array DC voltage does not float
too far from the Earth’s potential.
shield
unweathered rocks
weathered layered
(metamorphic rocks)
clays
gravel and sand
glacial sediments
tills
shales
sandstone and conglomerate
sedimentary rocks
dolomite, limestone
lignite, coal
salt water
permafrost
fresh water
water, aquifers
sea ice
100,000
10,000
1000
100
10
1
0.1
0.01
Conductivity (mS/m)
Fig.1: resistivity figures for some common components of the Earth’s crust. Note
the different units on the top and bottom horizontal axes, which are inversely
equivalent; as S (siemens) is the inverse of W (ohms), 1mS is equivalent to 1kW.
Source: GeoSci Developers – siliconchip.au/link/abu7 (CCA 4.0).
48
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
Fig.2: SWER line in South Australia.
The unusual pole construction is
concrete sandwiched between two
steel beams, known as a “Stobie pole”.
siliconchip.com.au
safety. In normal operation of a single-
phase AC circuit, current flows into or
out of the Active conductor, through
the load, and returns via the Neutral
conductor. In a fault scenario, an Earth
connection gives a low impedance
path for current to flow, which will
usually trip a circuit breaker.
In some scenarios, the fault will not
draw enough current to trip the circuit
breaker, but it should be enough to trigger a Residual Current Device (RCD).
In an RCD, the Active and Neutral
conductors both pass through a current transformer (CT). In the absence
of a fault, the current flow is balanced
between Active and Neutral, so the
magnetic fields of these two currents
cancel, and no net current is detected
– see Fig.4.
In a fault scenario, current flows
through Active, but not all is returned
via the Neutral; some flows through
the Earth connection.
This imbalance is detected in the
RCD, which will typically trip once the
imbalance exceeds 30mA (although
more sensitive RCDs exist, eg, 15mA;
the trip current is a balance between
sensitivity and nuisance tripping).
The Earth can also be used to ensure
electrical safety during the normal
operation of a grid. The most prominent such application is lightning
suppression. If the potential difference between the Earth’s surface
and the power lines were left uncontrolled, a direct strike from a lightning
bolt would charge up the network to
a high voltage, leading to arc-over at
the insulators.
It is therefore critical that this energy
is shunted to Earth to maintain grid tolerances. Earth is also a logical place to
shunt this charge as the lightning originates from a static buildup between
the ground and the atmosphere.
Types of Earthing systems
Earthing schemes used in a mains
grid are commonly described by a
sequence of letters based on where the
circuit Earth originates from.
“T” (terra; Latin for “Earth”) refers
to a direct connection to the soil of
the Earth. This is typically achieved
by driving a conductive stake into the
ground, or perhaps multiple stakes
and/or bonding to buried metal pipes.
In larger installations, such as substations or generators, a dedicated buried
circuit or ‘Earthing ring’ made of bare
wire (usually copper) encircles the
installation.
“I” (insulatum; Latin for “insulated”) means no connection to Earth
or a high-impedance connection
through an Earthing resistor.
“N” (network) means the Earth connection is via the network or grid.
Network Earths will still connect to
the soil at some point, but this may
be some distance away, not at a local
Earth stake, as with terra (T).
Fig.4: a Residual Current Device
(RCD). Usually, current flows to or
from the Active conductor through the
load and is returned via Neutral. The
magnetic fields of the two conductors
are cancelled, so the CT detects no net
current. A small amount of leakage
between Active and Earth, shown as
a thin red line here, is enough to trip
the RCD.
“C” (combined) means the circuit
Neutral and Earth are combined into a
single conductor in the network.
“S” (separate) is where the circuit
Neutral and Earth are run as separate
conductors in the network.
The Earthing system can thus be
described by two letters, the first indicating the source Earth, and the other
the load Earth.
TT (Terra-Terra)
Terra-terra networks are physically
connected to Earth at both the generator and load (see Fig.5). Typically,
this will be at the low-voltage distribution transformer and the customer’s premises.
TT networks rely heavily on the
Earth connection’s integrity, so care is
taken to ensure a sufficiently low Earth
loop impedance. This can include
tight specifications around Earth stake
Terminology
Fig.3: the start of the SWER line shown
in Fig.2. The three conductors on the
right are 33kV phase-to-phase, or
19kV from phase to Neutral/Earth. The
SWER line taps off the middle phase
and extends to the left. The return
Neutral current flows via Earth.
Phrases such as Earth, Neutral, common and ground are sometimes used
somewhat interchangeably. They can be confusing terms, particularly from our
perspective as electronics enthusiasts.
Earth: a connection to terra firma, either directly through an Earthing stake,
or via a conductor that is bonded at some point with Earth.
Neutral: the return current of a single-phase AC supply. Typically, this will be the
centre point of a star-connected three-phase circuit. In regular operation, most
networks should have very little voltage difference between the Neutral and Earth.
Ground: a common node in a circuit, usually at 0V DC potential. Confusingly,
ground can be ‘grounded’ by tying to ‘Earth’, but it is uncommon in modern usage.
Floating circuits are generally considered to have a ‘ground’, but it could drift
relative to Earth; it is usually the negative end of a battery or similar and is used
as a local reference and/or current return. In a circuit running directly from the
mains, ‘ground’ may even be connected to (or very close to) the Active potential!
Some circuits can have multiple grounds (analog, digital etc).
Common: a node in a circuit shared by many components. It is sometimes used
interchangeably with ‘ground’ but can also be used where multiple signals are
tied together. Examples are a common bus in a multiplexed display or a common
signal tying multiple opto-isolators together.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 49
construction and placement, as well
as considerations of soil conductivity.
This is particularly important in
cold areas, where frozen soil dramatically increases resistivity, or in high
rainfall regions, where soil electrolytes
are diluted, leaving few charge carriers
for conduction.
Even given these additional requirements, a standard overcurrent breaker
is not guaranteed to trip from an Earth
fault. As a result, TT customers will
almost always need Earth leakage protection in the form of an RCD.
Historically, TT networks were not
popular due to the difficulty of ensuring safety without Earth leakage protection. The advent of cheap RCD
breakers has led to its increasing use
worldwide, such that it is now the
most common scheme.
Many parts of Europe, including
France, Denmark, Belgium, Spain,
Italy, and Portugal, are now predominantly TT, as well as Japan, Malaysia,
Argentina and many others. Germany
extensively uses TT outside of metropolitan areas.
IT (Insula-Terra)
Insula-terra networks are connected
to Earth at the customer’s end but not
at the generator or distribution transformer (Fig.6). Therefore, the Active
and Neutral connections have no
reference to Earth, which minimises
shock hazards. The reader may recognise this advantage from using an
isolation transformer when working
on mains-powered electronics.
IT networks are often referred to as
“first fault free”, as any fault will convert the system into another scheme
(usually TN) while the fault is present,
and subsequent faults may be dangerous. This is why IT networks are not
common worldwide, except in specialised applications.
This includes hospitals, where
patients are at a higher risk of shock
when coupled to medical equipment,
and industrial areas where a flammable atmosphere may be present, so the
risk of sparking needs to be minimised.
Fig.5: the TT Earthing scheme.
50
Silicon Chip
Scandinavia is an exception, where
frozen ground and rocky geology make
Earthing difficult. Norway in particular makes heavy use of IT Earthing.
In India, a variation of the IT network called Resistance Earthed Neutral (REN) is used in mining areas. A
Neutral grounding resistor limits the
Earth current to 750mA.
TN-C (Terra-Network-Combined)
Terra-network-combined systems
get their Earth from the network by
combining it with the Neutral conductor (Fig.7). This combined conductor
is commonly referred to as the Protective Earth Neutral (PEN).
In a TN-C network, the distribution
transformer is Earthed at the source
end, which is also connected to the
circuit Neutral. This PEN conductor
then runs along the poles and wires of
the grid to customer premises, where
it is used as the “Earth”.
TN-C networks do not require an
Earth stake at the customer premises
or RCD breakers as in a TT or IT network, but they are extremely reliant on
the integrity of the PEN. If there is a
break in this conductor, the customer
load will act like a pullup resistor,
raising the potential of Neutral/Earth
to mains voltage; a hazardous situation (see Fig.11).
TN-C networks also suffer from
conducted interference. As the circuit
Neutral is combined with the Earth,
coupled noise from heavy industrial
equipment can pass through the network and cause problems with sensitive equipment such as telecommunications broadcast infrastructure.
Fig.11: a Neutral fault with the
TN-C scheme. The customer load
acts like a pullup resistor, raising
the Earth to a high voltage and
creating a shock hazard.
conductor. TN-S is used extensively
in India.
TN-C-S (Terra-Network-Combined-Separate)
Terra-network-combined-separate
networks are a hybrid of the TN-C
and TN-S systems. The source transformer is Earthed, while a combined
PEN conductor emanates onto the
network (Fig.9). The PEN is split into
dedicated Neutral and Earth conductors at some agreed location (usually
the customer’s switchboard).
TN-C-S is widely used in the UK,
USA, Canada, Israel, Australia and
New Zealand – see Fig.14. Germany
also predominantly uses TN-C-S in
metropolitan areas.
MEN (Multiple-Earthed-Neutral)
Terra-network-separate networks
run a dedicated Earth on the network,
separate from the Neutral conductor
(Fig.8). The distribution transformer
is Earthed at the source end and connected to two conductors. One is the
Neutral, while the other is a dedicated
Earth – see Fig.13. TN-S networks are
the safest configuration but are also
more expensive, given the added
Australia and New Zealand use the
Multiple Earthed Neutral (MEN system) – see Fig.10. It is a TN-C-S system, though TT may be permitted in
some situations – usually rural areas.
Unusually for TN-C-S, an Earth stake is
mandatory at each customer premises.
In MEN networks, the source distribution transformer is Earthed, and
a combined PEN conductor runs in
the grid. The PEN is Earthed at multiple points throughout the network,
including at the customer stake.
This gives good immunity against
a broken Neutral; if the customer is
downstream of the fault, their PEN
will not rise to a dangerous potential
thanks to the Earth stake at their premises and any neighbouring premises or
network Earths.
Fig.6: the IT Earthing scheme.
Fig.7: the TN-C Earthing Scheme.
TN-S (Terra-Network-Separate)
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siliconchip.com.au
Fig.12: this configuration stops
the communications cable shield
from drifting too far from Earth. It
keeps it at a low AC impedance via
the capacitor but will not form an
‘Earth loop’.
At the customer premises, the combined PEN connects to the Neutral
bar in their switchboard. This busbar
then distributes the Neutrals to all of
the circuits within the installation.
Separately, a dedicated Earthing busbar connects to the “Earth” conductor
emanating throughout the property, as
well as the Earth stake.
The Earth busbar and the Neutral
busbar are joined by a single strap,
known as the “MEN link”. This link is
the separation point between the TN-C
scheme on the network and the TN-S
scheme within the customer premises.
Earth integrity
The Earth connection is convenient,
as it can be assumed to be the same
voltage across multiple installations,
even if they are geographically separated. But as the soil has a finite resistance, this is not always true.
This can create problems where two
circuits are bonded to mains Earth and
are also linked by conductors, similar
to a local ‘ground loop’ or ‘earth loop’
that can cause problems with audio
electronics.
This is particularly problematic
when large conductive structures
are located near high-power switching gear. This might be a steel fence
around a switchyard or a buried gas
pipeline adjacent to power lines. In a
fault, a large current might flow into
‘Earth’, raising the local voltage near
the Earthing stake/ring. If the metal
structure is close enough to this fault,
its voltage will rise.
Fig.8: the TN-S Earthing scheme.
siliconchip.com.au
If someone touches this structure, they may receive a lethal voltage despite being far from the actual
fault. This is because the metal is a
better conductor than the Earth, so
the ground they are standing on is at a
different voltage than the ground near
the fault. This is known as a ‘touch
potential’ and is a major hazard in
high-power assets.
Editor’s Note: in extreme cases,
there can be enough potential between
workers’ feet to electrocute them. Electrical workers are trained to hop if they
suspect such a fault exists!
Similarly, industrial Ethernet networks can also suffer from ground
loops and unequal Earthing. Ethernet
uses differential signalling, so it is
commonly run over UTP (Unshielded
Twisted Pair) cabling. A high Common Mode Rejection Ratio (CMRR)
amplifier cancels any coupled noise
or interference at the receiver. Thus,
shielded cable is not needed for noise
immunity.
Despite this, shielded or foiled Cat6
cabling is common in industrial settings. Often, the designer will reason
that shielded cable will be better than
unshielded, so it is worth the marginal
cost increase. However, it can often be
more trouble than it is worth.
Ethernet uses “magnetics” (signal transformers) at the receiver and
transmitter to galvanically isolate the
channel, preventing ground loops
from forming. Shielded cable effectively breaks this isolation by connecting a conductor directly between the
receiver and transmitter.
If there is any Earth imbalance
between this equipment, large currents
can flow, which can cause interference
or damage. For this reason, if shielded
Ethernet cable is used, it is often only
Earthed at one end of the cable, or
better still, connected through a parallel RC combination, perhaps 1MW ||
100nF (see Fig.12).
The resistor weakly holds the shield
at a known voltage, while the capacitor offers a low impedance path for AC
SC
voltages (coupled interference).
Fig.9: the TN-C-S Earthing scheme.
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Fig.13: the TN-S scheme in Namibia.
The five conductors (from bottom to
top) are Earth, Neutral & three Active
phases. Note how the Earth wire has a
smaller diameter than the others.
Fig.14: the TN-C-S scheme in
Melbourne. The distribution
transformer feeds the four horizontal
conductors directly above it. The
second conductor from the left is the
combined Neutral/Earth (PEN), while
the other three conductors are the
Active phases, 400V line-to-line or
230V line-to-Neutral. An Earth stake
(out of shot) connects to the conductor
running up the left of the pole,
partially covered by a white conduit.
The transformer is fed on the primary
side by the three conductors at the top
with 22kV between phases.
Fig.10: the MEN Earthing scheme.
September 2024 51
Project by Richard Palmer
USB Mixed-Signal
Logic Analyser
using a Raspberry Pi Pico
A mixed signal
analyser can be
invaluable as it
lets you monitor
and decode serial
buses and other
logic signals while
observing other analog signals.
Based on a Raspberry Pi Pico, this one
provides 16 digital and three analog channels.
A
logic analyser is a fundamental
tool for debugging digital circuitry,
whether it is hard-wired logic or
involves a microcontroller. Along with
traditional parallel and sequential
logic, circuit elements are now commonly connected to microcontrollers
using I2C, I3C, SPI, or serial connections. Often, analog signals trigger or
are triggered by digital signals. This is
the domain of the mixed-signal oscilloscope (MSO).
While this project does not claim to
be an all-bells-and-whistles MSO, it
provides flexible logic analyser functionality and the ability to view up to
three analog signals synchronously. It
is relatively compact and inexpensive.
Design overview
A block diagram is shown in Fig.1.
At the heart of the design is a Raspberry Pi Pico microcontroller. The
Pico’s very fast PIO (Programmable
I/O) processor captures digital signals, while its inbuilt ADC (analog-to-
digital converter) captures the analog
signals. The captured signals are translated into serial format and transmitted
to the host computer via a USB serial
connection.
52
Silicon Chip
The open-source PulseView program decodes and displays the waveforms.
Input signal conditioning and overvoltage protection are provided for
both analog and digital channels. The
digital side employs logic translators
and schottky protection diodes, while
the analog channels offer an amplifying buffer, diode protection, AC/
DC switching and potentiometers for
gain control.
Performance
As with digital oscilloscopes, the
sampling rate is a critical specification for logic analysers, determining
the maximum frequency that can be
reliably displayed and, possibly more
importantly, the smallest difference
in signal timing that can be distinguished.
The Pico can sample up to twenty
digital signals at an impressive 240
million samples per second. To
achieve that, it is overclocked from its
default 133MHz to 240MHz, which is
well within safe limits.
The achieved sampling rate depends
on the number of enabled channels
and the desired number of samples to
be captured – see Table 1.
The maximum capture rate reduces
when the quantity of data to be captured exceeds the Pico’s internal buffer
space and data needs to be streamed
via the USB link. The manual contained in the download pack for this
project has further details (siliconchip.
au/Shop/6/452).
PicoMSA Features & Specifications
» 20 protected digital inputs for 1.8V, 3.3V or 5V logic
» Three protected 7-bit analog inputs
» Four additional 3.3V protected digital inputs
» 240MHz digital sampling rate
» Analog inputs have adjustable sensitivity of 0.33-120V peak-to-peak
» 2.4MHz maximum shared ADC sampling rate
» Flexible, multi-platform PulseView software with multiple protocol decoders
» USB powered and connected
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siliconchip.com.au
The logic-level translator ICs can
handle sixteen 5V, 3.3V or 1.8V logic
inputs (D2-D17). The last four digital
inputs, D18-D21, do not have logic-
level translators and are optimised for
3.3V logic levels.
All analog and digital inputs are
protected against excessive positive
or negative voltages. The digital inputs
are protected for an absolute maximum signal range of -5V to +20V. The
input capacitor’s 250V DC rating determines the upper limit to the analog
input voltage, although applied signals should be limited to 25V RMS or
60V peak for safety.
Analog signals may be AC or DC
coupled, with a selection switch for
each channel. The maximum sensitivity for analog inputs is 330mV fullscale. They are sampled with 7-bit
accuracy, translating to 2.5mV steps
at maximum sensitivity.
When analog signals are captured,
the maximum sampling rate is limited
by the ADC’s 2.4MHz conversion rate,
which is shared among the enabled
analog channels.
As PulseView does not smooth analog signals, five samples per cycle is a
practical lower limit for displaying a
recognisable sinewave (Screen 1). That
gives us a theoretical AC bandwidth of
around 500kHz when capturing a single analog channel or 160kHz when all
three channels are enabled.
With a small number of samples per
cycle, if the signal being displayed is
not an exact sub-division of the sampling frequency, patterns like the one
shown in Screen 2 may appear.
It looks like an amplitude-modulated signal due to the sample points
near the peak occurring at a slightly
different part of the waveform each
time.
siliconchip.com.au
Table 1 – maximum sampling rates
# digital # analog
# samples
Maximum sampling rate
Limitation
1-4
0
≤200k
240Msps
PIO
1-4
0
>200k
500ksps+
USB w/RLE
5-7
0
≤100k
240Msps
PIO
5-7
0
>100k
500ksps+
USB w/RLE
8-14
0
≤50k
240Msps
PIO
8-14
0
>50k
250ksps+
USB w/RLE
15-20
0
<25k
240Msps
PIO
15-20
0
≥25k
167ksps+
USB w/RLE
0
1
≤200k
2.4Msps
ADC
0
1
>200k
500ksps
USB
0
2
≤100k
1.2Msps
ADC
0
2
>100k
250ksps
USB
0
3
<67k
800ksps
ADC
0
3
≥67k
160ksps
USB
1-7
1
≤100k
2.4Msps
ADC
1-7
1
>100k
250ksps
USB
1-7
2
<67k
1.2Msps
ADC
1-7
2
≥67k
160ksps
USB
1-7
3
≤50k
800ksps
ADC
1-7
3
>50k
125ksps
USB
8-14
1
<67k
2.4Msps
ADC
8-14
1
≥67k
160ksps
USB
8-14
2
≤50k
1.2Msps
ADC
8-14
2
>50k
125ksps
USB
8-14
3
≤40k
800ksps
ADC
8-14
3
>40k
100ksps
USB
Table 1: the maximum sampling rate depends on the number and type of
channels active and the number of data points to capture. In each case, the
limitation is either the maximum PIO, USB or ADC speed.
Fig.1: incoming digital and/or analog signals are conditioned before being
captured by the Pico’s internal PIO (digital) and ADC (analog) peripherals. The
captured data is transferred to the host computer via USB for display on the
open-source PulseView application.
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 53
The frequency of the apparent modulation is related to the remainder of
the signal frequency divided by the
sampling rate.
In DC mode, the analyser has an
analog frequency response within
+0/-0.5dB to 100kHz and +0/-2dB up
to 300kHz. The equivalent lower limits are 2Hz (-0.5dB) and 5Hz (-2dB) in
AC-coupled mode (see Fig.2).
The Pico PIO peripheral
Fig.2: the analyser’s AC analog channel bandwidth. The DC bandwidth is
within 0.5dB from DC to 100kHz and within 2dB to 300kHz.
Fig.3: the Pico’s PIO (programmable I/O) processor has flexible facilities for
interacting with I/O signals at very high speeds, communicating with the
main CPU via FIFO buffers.
The Pico’s internal PIO is a very fast
and flexible secondary processor, optimised for I/O processing – see Fig.3.
It can operate up to the CPU speed
which, in this case, has been moderately overclocked to 240MHz.
The PIO’s instruction set consists of
only nine instructions and the maximum length of a PIO program is 32
instructions. Those are not major limitations as each PIO instruction word
can accomplish multiple actions, so
complex I/O programs can be written
with few instructions. For instance, an
SPI port can be created with just three
PIO instructions.
In this project, the PIO executes a
loop with a single instruction: read
from a defined number of pins and
move them into the PIO’s eight-entry
first-in, first-out (FIFO) buffer to be
picked up by the Pico’s main CPU for
further processing.
The FIFO buffer is 32 bits wide and,
when the number of digital inputs
being captured is less than 16, the PIO
automatically packs multiple sets into
one FIFO entry.
Firmware
The top of the prototype PCB with the front panel wiring in place. Several
components have been moved in the final version to clear space under the
switches. Wires are soldered directly to the PCB instead of headers to give
enough clearance for the pots & switches.
54
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
The firmware, developed by someone using the nickname ‘pico-coder’,
has several main elements. It initially communicates with PulseView
to inform the software of the unit’s
capabilities and then accepts instructions on how many inputs to capture,
the desired sampling rate and capture length.
When PulseView’s Run button is
clicked, the Pico begins the capture
process and starts transmitting data.
When PulseView has collected sufficient data, it sends a command to disarm the PIO and stop the data flow.
Triggering – selecting the beginning of the saved and displayed capture stream – is left to PulseView, as
the additional processing is beyond
the Pico’s capabilities at higher sampling rates.
siliconchip.com.au
The PIO captures digital data and
packs it into the FIFO buffer for the
main CPU to convert into a suitable
form to transmit via USB. While waiting for transmission, the digital samples are stored in another buffer that
uses most of the Pico’s onboard 264kiB
of SRAM.
The size of this buffer determines
the maximum number of digital samples that can be captured when the
capture rate exceeds the USB data
transmission rate.
The unit can operate at full speed
when the overall capture size is less
than the RAM allocated to the buffer. When capturing larger data sets,
the acquisition rate is constrained by
the USB interface’s maximum transfer rate of 400-800kB/sec; the actual
rate depends on the host computer’s
capability.
For digital-only signals, run-length
encoding (RLE) compression automatically increases the effective transfer rate. In situations where there are
bursts of digital signal activity followed by long gaps, such as the I2C signal captured in Screen 3, RLE encoding improves the effective data rate
in the gaps between bursts by several
orders of magnitude. However, when
analog signals are (also) being captured, compression is not used.
Analog signals are directly captured
by the Pico processor’s inbuilt ADC,
using round-robin sampling and a second software FIFO. While the Pico’s
ADC has a specified twelve-bit resolution at a maximum sampling rate
of 500kHz, silicon errors in the chip
reduce the accuracy to just under
nine bits.
Some clever software tweaks (Raspberry Pi forums – siliconchip.au/link/
abwb) increase the maximum ADC
sampling rate to 2.4MHz. The accuracy is reduced to slightly over seven
bits at this higher rate. In our use case,
the sampling rate vs accuracy tradeoff is justified. Keep in mind that your
average low-cost DSO only uses eightbit sampling.
Circuit details
The complete circuit is shown in
Fig.4. The first sixteen digital inputs
have their signals conditioned by a
pair of SN74LVCC3245ADW logic
level translators, IC1 & IC2. The
74xxx245 is offered in a plethora of
different logic families. It is possible
to substitute families other than LVC
siliconchip.com.au
Screen 1: a 3V 50kHz analog signal captured at 500kHz. With ten samples per
cycle, the signal is recognisable as a sinewave.
Screen 2: a 60kHz sine wave sampled at 250kHz shows what appears to be
amplitude modulation. However, this is simply a macro view of the effect
depicted in Screen 1.
as long as the selection allows 3.3V
logic on the A-side and 1.8V to 5V or
better on the B-side.
The input logic voltage (VCCB) is
selected by a jumper on CON3, with
the options being the 5V and 3.3V digital voltage supplies available from the
Pico and 1.8V from REG2. This voltage also supplies the cathodes of the
protection diodes for channels D2-D17
(GP pins on the Pi Pico).
While a voltage selector switch
would have been preferred, all the
major suppliers’ SP3T slide switches
are make-before-break types, which
would temporarily short two of the
three power rails when the voltage
setting is changed!
The translator ICs include negative-
voltage diode protection, while
over-voltage protection is provided
by BAS40 low-capacitance schottky
diodes. Each dual diode protects a
pair of inputs from voltages greater
than VCCB + 0.3V. 100W input resistors limit the input currents through
Australia's electronics magazine
the protection diodes and reduce
ringing on the input signal lines due
to stray capacitance and impedance
mismatches.
The BAS40 diodes have a maximum
continuous current of 200mA, and
the logic level translators can handle
-50mA, so the absolute voltage limits
are -5V/+20V.
The final four digital inputs, D18D21, accept only 3.3V logic and have
reverse- and over-voltage protection
provided by 100W resistor arrays and
BAS40-04 serially-connected diode
pairs protecting the inputs to ±20V.
The digital channel input resistors
are SMD quad resistor arrays to reduce
the parts count. However, individual
M2012/0805 SMD resistors may be
used, mounted on their edges.
The three analog input channels
are configured identically. BNC connectors allow standard ×1/×10 oscilloscope probes to be attached. Each
input’s AC/DC selection is via a toggle
switch, with 100nF capacitors feeding
September 2024 55
into 1MW, allowing AC response down
to a few hertz.
With oscilloscope probes in ×10
mode, the 50pF capacitors in the circuit are balanced out by 20pF capacitors in parallel with the 10MW series
probe resistors.
56
Silicon Chip
If oscilloscope probes are not going
to be used, panel-mount RCA connectors may be substituted for the
BNC connectors. In this case, the
50pF capacitors in parallel with the
pots should be omitted, as they may
cause a roll-off in sensitivity at higher
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frequencies. The amount of roll-off
will depend on the impedance of the
source signal.
The Pico’s ADC has a 0-3.3V input
voltage range. As the buffer’s gain is
set to 10, this translates to 330mV at
the input to the buffer. However, the
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Fig.4: digital signals pass through protective resistors and are clamped to the positive supply rail by schottky diodes
before reaching level shifters IC1 & IC2. The analog inputs have similar protection, but there is also a series capacitor
that can be shorted to select between AC and DC coupling, a potentiometer in series for variable attenuation and an op
amp gain stage before the signals reach the Pico’s analog input pins.
variable attenuator formed by the
1MW potentiometer and 1.2kW fixed
resistor in each channel allows much
higher voltage signals to be probed,
up to the 60V peak safety limit.
siliconchip.com.au
24mm diameter pots may provide
smoother operation than the 16mm
variety, and logarithmic tapers give a
more even control of the input voltage. 9mm and 12mm pots should be
Australia's electronics magazine
avoided, as they are generally only
rated to handle up to 20V DC.
The 10kW op amp input resistors
limit any current through the BAS4004 (series) protection diodes and
September 2024 57
Fig.5: most of the
components mount
on the top of the
PCB, including the
Raspberry Pi Pico,
ICs, connectors
and many of the
passives. Note that
the two resistors
marked in red
(R17 & R19) can be
replaced by a single
19.1kW resistor on
R17’s pad.
Fig.6: many of the
dual diodes are
soldered to the
underside of the
board, along with a
few of the passive
components.
decouple the 10pF combined diode
capacitances from the input. They do
not impact the gain, as the FET-input
op amps have input impedances of
1TW (1012W).
TL074H FET-input op amps were
chosen to meet the need for high input
impedance and bandwidth. They have
improved specifications compared
with the garden-variety TL074. The
most important of these for our purposes is a 5.25MHz gain-bandwidth
product. This translates to a theoretical
3.3V peak-to-peak output bandwidth
of more than 500kHz at ×10 gain.
While these op amps do not have
rail-to-rail outputs, they are capable
of a positive swing of more than 4V
with a 5V supply rail.
58
Silicon Chip
The ADC zero point is set by the
-165mV reference voltage, Vref. An
inverting op amp halves the forward
voltage of a schottky diode to create
this reference voltage. As the schottky
diode’s forward voltage varies slightly
with current, trimmer resistor VR4
allows it to be trimmed. The buffer’s
feedback capacitor helps filter any
high-frequency noise.
The input resistance to this op amp
is 19.1kW, so the required gain of 0.5
is achieved when VR4 is near its halfway point. While such E96 values are
generally not difficult to obtain in the
required SMD package, two parallel
footprints are provided, allowing you
to use 22kW in parallel with 150kW
instead.
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+5V power for the op-amps is taken
from the USB socket’s power pin
(Vbus), while -5V is provided by an
LM2664 switched capacitor voltage
inverter. Larger (3.2 × 2.5mm) SMD
ceramic capacitors are used on the
voltage inverter for their lower ESR
and, therefore, self-heating losses.
Separate ground planes are provided for the analog and digital sections of the circuit to limit the transfer
of digital noise into the analog environment. The copper is joined on both
sides (top and bottom) in the middle
of the board.
All analog power rails are filtered and decoupled from the digital ground plane by 10W resistors
and capacitors. As the LM2664 has
siliconchip.com.au
a 160kHz switching frequency, only
10μF capacitors are required in the
output filters to effectively filter the
switching noise.
Linear regulator REG1 ensures the
Pico’s 3.3V ADC reference voltage
is stable and low-impedance, which
helps with accuracy, particularly at
high sampling rates.
Construction
The Mixed-Signal Logic Analyser
is built on a double-sided PCB coded
04109241 that measures 77 × 148mm.
There are parts on both sides; use the
overlay diagrams (Figs.5 & 6) as guides
during assembly.
When sorting the parts for construction, be careful to keep the BAS4004 (series connected) and BAS40-05
(common cathode) variants separate.
While they have different markings,
these may be difficult to distinguish
without a bright light and a magnifying glass. The only place where the
variant does not matter is diode D17,
where either part would work.
Solder IC1 & IC2 first, as access to
these becomes more difficult once the
Pico’s header sockets are in place. If
you have a reflow oven, you can use
solder paste, but if you’re using a soldering iron, it’s better to use flux-cored
solder wire with a syringe of flux paste.
Apply a thin layer of flux paste to
all the pads for one IC, then place the
IC over its pads. Double-check that its
pin 1 orientation is correct, then add
a small amount of solder to the clean
iron tip and touch it to the junction
of one corner pin and its pad. That
should tack the IC down. Check that it
is correctly aligned with all its pads; if
not, remelt that solder joint and gently
nudge it in position.
Once it’s correctly located, solder
the other three corner pins similarly.
Then add more solder to your iron tip
and gently drag it along the edge of
the pins on one side, in contact with
the PCB. The solder will flow onto the
pads one after another. Don’t worry if
some pins are bridged; continue adding solder until all the pins on one side
are soldered, and repeat on the other.
Once all the pins are soldered, add
a little more flux paste to any bridged
pins and press solder wick down
between the two pins with the iron
tip until it sucks up the excess solder. When finished, clean off the flux
residue using a flux cleaner or alcohol (eg, isopropyl) and inspect all the
joints carefully to ensure they have all
formed correctly. If any are no good,
clean them up with more flux paste.
Next, mount the three voltage regulators, the passives surrounding them
and the headers for the Pico. Attach
the Pico and connect its USB cable
to a power source. I use a USB power
monitor on the first connection to
check the current draw. For this project, more than 50mA indicates a possible problem.
The 1.8V, 3.3V (ADC_VREF), +5V
and -5V rails should now be active;
check that they are the correct voltages
by carefully probing the regulator pins
with a DMM. The -5V rail may read a
few hundred millivolts less than the
+5 rail due to the voltage lost in the
switched capacitor voltage inverter.
If there are any problems, switch the
power off and check everything under
magnification.
Assuming it passed the tests, fit the
remaining SMD ICs, diodes and passive components on both sides of the
PCB. We recommend fitting all the
SMDs to the top before you move onto
the bottom. Remember the comments
earlier about not getting the two different kinds of diodes mixed up and
I didn’t have any resistor networks
on hand when building the prototype,
so I used 100W M2012/0805 SMD
resistors mounted edge-wise.
recall that you can either fit a single
19.1kW resistor on the pad marked R17
(as marked on the overlay diagram) or
22kW for R17 and 150kW for R19.
Soldering the five resistor arrays
will be a little tricky because each
they are not much larger than a single
resistor (5.1 × 2.2mm), so the contact
pads for each element are tiny. You
will need to use flux paste to get the
solder to flow into the concave leads
and onto the pads below. When finished, clean off the residue and check
the solder joints carefully under magnification.
With all the SMDs in place, the flux
residue cleaned off, and your work
checked, proceed to fit the throughhole components, starting with the
three 10W axial resistors. Follow with
the trimpot, leaving the switches, BNC
connectors and right-angle pin header
until the end.
The right-angle header is configured
as two blocks of 8 × 2 pins and one
Screen 3: the PulseView display of a
decoded I2C signal being read from an
EEPROM chip with a clock frequency
of 400kHz.
Fig.7: remove the pins from the
locations shown here on the 23-row
dual right-angle header to provide a
continuous length of support plastic
behind the case opening. You can also
check the photos.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 59
A USB power monitor is useful for
identifying faults that draw additional
current, such as power rail shorts
to ground. We published a DIY
version in the December 2012 issue
(siliconchip.au/Article/460).
Shields made from thick cards
can help cover cut-outs in the
case, preventing dust ingress and
making it look nicer.
of 3 × 2 pins with the first, last and
intermediate columns of pins removed
(see Fig.7). This arrangement provides
a solid wall of plastic retaining strip
inside the case, extending one unit
beyond the pins at each end. Mount the
header after removing the pins from
the columns shown. Put the jumper
on the middle (3.3V) pin of the 3×2
pin section of the header.
The BNC connectors may be
mounted at this stage or left for later.
After soldering them, secure the BNC
connectors with a small amount of hot
glue or epoxy adhesive on the mounting pins.
The analog channel gain potentiometers, AC/DC input switches and the
LED on the top of the case connect to
the PCB using short lengths of hookup
wire (wire stripped from ribbon cable
is ideal).
As the pots and switches are
mounted fairly directly above their
connection points to the PCB, 10cm
flying leads should suffice. Make them
by stripping sets of two or three wires
off a 10cm length of ribbon cable. Connect the switches and pots now, as they
will be needed for testing.
Testing
The top and bottom of the finished prototype PicoMSA (mixed-signal analyser)
PCB. The final version has some minor differences.
60
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
Download the firmware to load
onto the Pico from siliconchip.com.
au/Shop/6/452 and plug the Pico into
your computer. A new ‘drive’ should
appear the first time you plug it in. If
it doesn’t, unplug it and plug it back
in while holding the BOOTSEL button
on the Pico. Copy the UF2 file from
the download package onto that drive;
once the Pico reboots, it will be running the required software.
Next, download and install Pulse
View from https://sigrok.org/wiki/
PulseView
Start PulseView, connect the analyser and click the device selection button (“<No Device>”) in the toolbar (see
Screen 4). From the drop-down list in
the pop-up window, select “RaspberryPI PICO”.
Click the Serial Port radio button and select the appropriate serial
device. In Windows, it should have
“CDC” in its name, and won’t be
COM1. There is no need to select any
baud rate option. Click on “Step 3:
Scan for devices”, and you should be
rewarded with a “Raspberry Pi Pico
with 24 channels” message in the
“Step 4: Select the Device box”. Select
it and click OK.
siliconchip.com.au
If you have any difficulty with the
process, try restarting your computer.
You should not need to use Zadig or
another driver updater program to
install different drivers.
The PulseView display should now
have a window with twenty digital and
three analog signals. You may need to
scroll the screen down to see the analog channels. The digital signals are
numbered D2-D21, a carry-over from
the GPIO pin numbers to which they
are connected.
If you click the Run button in the
top toolbar, the display should fill with
random values for both the digital and
analog inputs.
Screen 4: the
logic analyser’s
USB serial port
setting in the
PulseView device
setup screen.
Calibration
Deselect all the digital channels,
leaving the analog channels selected.
Connect a 1kHz 1V signal to any analog input and set the AC/DC switch to
AC. The frequency and voltage values
do not need to be exact.
Capture 200 samples at the 50kHz
sampling rate. Repeat the captures
while adjusting the gain pot so that
the PulseView displays a waveform
of around 200mV peak-to-peak. The
captured waveform may be above or
below the zero line, as in Screen 5.
Adjust the trimpot until the captured
waveform is equally above and below
the zero line, as in Screen 6.
Enable all the digital inputs and
set the logic level to 3.3V using the
jumper. Check the channels by capturing a 0-3.3V square wave. Test the
input channels individually, as that
will show any channel-to-channel
shorts, which can be hard to detect
visually on the finely-spaced pins of
the logic translators.
Once the unit is working correctly,
mount the PCB into the case using
9mm-long self-tappers. 2mm spacers are required between the PCB and
case to prevent the ends of the screws
coming through the bottom of the case,
which has four dimples. The top has
rows of lozenge-shaped depressions
down both sides. If you don’t have
2mm spacers, use pairs of 1mm-thick
Nylon washers.
Mark the height and horizontal position on the side panel and drill 3mm
pilot holes as shown in Fig.8. Set the
unit on the table and line up one end
panel against the BNC connectors to
check the position of the holes. Ream
or drill the holes out to 12mm (10mm
for RCA sockets).
siliconchip.com.au
Screen 5: a 1kHz AC signal captured before Vref has been trimmed is offset from
the zero line in PulseView.
Screen 6: after Vref trimming, the waveform is centred on the zero line.
Screen 7: a PulseView capture of synchronised square and sine waves on digital
channel D2 and analog channel A0.
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 61
Fig.8: there are
three round holes
to be made in the
back of the case
(for the analog
inputs; the sizes
vary depending
on what type of
connector you
use) and one
rectangular cutout for the input
header. For the
latter, you can drill
a series of round
holes in a row, then
file the shape out
carefully to a neat
rectangle with flat
files.
Fig.9: seven round
holes are needed in
the case lid. Parts
mounted to the lid
are wired to the
board via flying
leads, so the exact
positions are not
critical as long as
the result is neat.
We recommend
that you drill them
as shown here so
our label artwork
will fit.
If RCA connectors are used, they
should be directly mounted on the
side panel, in line with the BNC socket
pads on the PCB, and high enough on
the side panel to just clear the top of
the PCB.
Repeat the process with the right-
angle pin headers. There should be
a 1mm gap in the side panel around
the pins to provide clearance for test
leads and the digital voltage selection
jumper.
Mark the location of the USB socket
on the side of the case and drill a
small pilot hole to check the position. While a hole just the size of a
micro-USB plug (7×2mm) may suffice, I chose to make the cut-out the
same size as the plastic surround on
my USB lead (8×12mm) so I could
be sure it would fully insert without
binding on the case.
If you choose this approach, cut a
small piece of heavy paper to cover
the hole. A similar cover can be made
for the digital pins by pressing them
into a piece of heavy paper to mark
the holes, then punching them with a
62
Silicon Chip
fat needle. The paper is then pressed
over the pins.
The top cover should be drilled as
shown in Fig.9. You can download the
label artwork (shown in Fig.10) from
the Silicon Chip website, print it, laminate it and cut it to size. Punch out
the holes or cut them out using a sharp
hobby knife. Make the holes slightly
oversized so they don’t delaminate the
label when the pots and switches are
inserted. The label can be stuck down
with double-sided tape.
Mount the pots, switches and LED.
The pots and switches have minimal
clearance above the PCB, so mount
them without any washers or nuts
between the cover and the switches
or pots. The LED leads should be cut
to less than 1cm to clear the PCB, and
Fig.10: this artwork can be downloaded from siliconchip.au/Shop/11/456 so you
can print it out (at ‘actual size’) to make a label to attach to the lid.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
the joins to the hookup wire should
be insulated with heatshrink tubing.
Snap the case together. As there
is minimal clearance between the
switches, pots and the PCB, pulling
the switch wires out between the BNC
connectors, and the pot wires out the
other side, makes it easier to fit the top
and bottom halves of the case together.
Tuck the wires back in before fitting
the side pieces. You can then fit the
potentiometer knobs.
Usage precautions
If plugged directly into a computer’s USB port, the Pico MSA’s ground
will be Earthed via the computer. If the
device under test’s (DUT’s) ground terminal is at a significant potential from
Earth, connecting it may damage the
USB port, computer or MSA. Therefore, using a USB isolator is highly
recommended. They are cheap insurance, typically costing less than $10
from AliExpress.
The lowest USB speed option will
suffice, as the Pico’s USB port only
supports 12MHz full speed operation.
Operation
The display height of any signal
channel can be changed by clicking on
its flag and changing the “Div height”
value (see Screen 8). This is particularly useful for expanding the vertical
axis for analog signals.
Click on the red probe icon in the
toolbar to reduce the active channels
to only those you need to be enabled.
The achievable sampling rate is a factor of the number and type of active
channels, plus the number of samples
to capture, as shown in Table 1.
Triggering is handled by the host
software; only digital pins can be used
Parts List – Pico Mixed-Signal Analyser
1 Ritec grey ABS instrument case, 86 × 155 × 30mm [Altronics H0377]
1 double-sided plated-through PCB coded 04109241, 77 × 148mm
1 Raspberry Pi Pico (MOD1)
3 SPST (or SPDT) mini solder-tail toggle switches (S1-S3)
[Altronics S1310, Jaycar ST0546]
3 1MW logarithmic (A) taper rotary potentiometers, 16 or 24mm (VR1-VR3)
3 knobs to suit VR1-VR3 [Altronics HX6020 or H6030, Jaycar HK7705]
1 2kW mini top-adjust trimpot (VR4) [Altronics R2477B, Jaycar RT4354]
1 23 × 2-pin (double row) right-angle header (CON2-CON4)
3 PCB-mount BNC or panel-mount BNC or RCA connectors
(CON6, CON8, CON10) [Altronics P0529]
1 jumper shunt (for CON3)
2 20-pin headers (for mounting the Pico)
2 20-pin header sockets (optional; for mounting the Pico)
1 USB micro Type-B cable
1 USB isolator (optional, but highly recommended)
[www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001369085297]
1 set of DuPont female plug to mini clip digital test probes (optional)
1 A5 laminating pouch (for label)
Hardware, wire etc
4 4G x 9mm panhead self-tapping screws
4 2mm-long 3mm ID spacers OR 8 1mm-thick M3 Nylon washers
1 10cm length of 20-way ribbon cable
1 3cm length of 1.5mm diameter heatshrink tubing (for the LED)
1 small stick of hot-melt glue or tube of epoxy adhesive
(to secure the BNC connectors)
Semiconductors
2 SN74LVCC3245ADW 8-channel bidirectional level-shifters, wide SOIC-24
(IC1, IC2) [DigiKey, Mouser, element14]
1 TL074H precision quad low-noise JFET op amp, SOIC-14 (IC3)
[DigiKey, Mouser]
1 AMS1117-3.3 regulator, SOT-23-3 (REG1) [DigiKey, Mouser, element14]
1 AMS1117-1.8 regulator, SOT-23-3 (REG2) [DigiKey, Mouser, element14]
1 LM2664M6 switched capacitor voltage inverter, SOT-23-6 (REG3)
[DigiKey, Mouser]
1 3mm LED in a bezel or LED and separate bezel (LED1)
[Altronics Z0238, Jaycar SL2615]
9 BAS40-05 dual common-cathode schottky diodes, SOT-23 (D1-D8, D17)
10 BAS40-04 dual series schottky diodes, SOT-23 (D9-D16, D18, D19)
Capacitors (all SMD ceramic M2012/0805-size 16V X7R unless noted)
3 10μF M3225/1210 or M3216/1206
2 3.3μF M3216/1206
8 1μF
3 100nF 250V M3216/1206 or M3225/1210
9 100nF
3 50pF
Resistors (all SMD M2012/0805 ⅛W 1% unless noted)
1 150kW
1 22kW
7 10kW
1 4.7kW
1 2.2kW
A pinout diagram of CON2-CON4 as shown
3 1.2kW
from the front (viewed from outside the
enclosure). Note that this diagram and Fig.7
3 1kW
shows the plastic shroud on the header
3 100W
extending one row beyond the ends.
1 47W
3 10W ¼W axial
5 100W M3216/1206 1/16W Panasonic EXB-S8V101J quad resistor arrays
can be substituted with a single 19.1kW resistor
🔹
🔹
This style of female DuPont-style
mini probe clips is convenient for
connecting to IC leads and test points.
They will plug straight into the rightangle header on the unit.
siliconchip.com.au
🔹
Hard-to-get parts for the PicoMSA (SC7323; $50): includes the PCB, Raspberry Pi
Pico (unprogrammed) plus all semiconductors, capacitors and resistors
Screen 8: display
parameters for each
channel row can be
set by clicking on the
channel icon at the left of
the screen. The vertical
resolution in V/div can
also be set for analog
channels if the default
auto-ranging resolution
is not optimal.
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for triggering (see Screen 9). Levels,
rising, falling and changing signals
across multiple inputs can be used to
construct the required triggers.
The sampling rate may be limited
when triggering is enabled, as the
analyser needs to be able to stream the
data continuously. When only digital
signals are being captured, RLE compression can significantly boost the
effective streamed transfer rate, allowing higher sampling rates to be used.
Digital input channels need to be
selected sequentially, with no gaps.
If all channels between D2 and the
highest input channel enabled are not
selected, an ‘unspecified’ PulseView
capture error may result. Thus, you
cannot select, say, only inputs D2 &
D4 or D2-D9 & D11.
If any analog channels are enabled,
the sampling rate will be no more
than 2.4MHz divided by the number
of active analog channels so that the
digital and analog samples remain synchronised on the display. For mixed
signals, one analog sample is sent for
every digital sample.
If the sampling rate is higher than
the maximum ADC sampling rate,
any analog signal is not shown at the
correct frequency, as it is captured at
a different rate from the digital channels. To avoid this, do not exceed a
sampling rate of 2.4MHz divided by
the number of active analog channels
(see Table 1).
Further information on using Pulse
View’s extensive feature set is available in the online manual (siliconchip.
au/link/abwa).
Conclusion
This project would have been significantly more complex without the speed
& flexibility of the Raspberry Pi Pico’s
PIO processor, pico-coder’s clever firmware and the volunteers who have
helped refine the PulseView software.
Together, these have made providing a
high-performance, mixed-signal logic
SC
analyser relatively easy.
H 80mm internal width
H Silicon Chip logo printed in goldcoloured lettering on spine &
cover
Silicon Chip Publications
PO Box 194
Matraville NSW 2036
Order online from www.
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/4
or call (02) 9939 3295
and quote your credit card
number.
*see website for delivery prices.
64
Silicon Chip
Screen 9: PulseView has flexible triggering options for digital signals. Triggering
is processed on the host computer, potentially limiting capture rates.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 65
SILICON CHIP
Mini Projects #010 – by Tim Blythman
IR Helper
Infrared (IR) remote controls make life easier. However,
each controlled device typically needs its own remote
control, making it awkward when you have many devices.
The IR Helper can simplify things by emulating different remote
controls.
T
he main role of the IR Helper is to
send IR signals automatically, so
you don’t have to juggle multiple IR
remote controls. Our prototype can do
this in a couple of ways, but since it is
programmed using the Arduino IDE,
it is easy to extend and adapt.
You will need some Arduino knowledge, though, since you will have to
change our prototype sketch to suit
your equipment and its IR codes.
The IR Helper can be programmed
to send a signal when it is powered
on. Many devices like TVs have USB
ports, so you can simply plug the IR
Helper in, and it will power on when
the TV does and send out the signals
it’s programmed to generate.
The IR Helper can also respond
to IR commands and perform extra
actions by sending further signals
to other devices. For example, the
IR Helper could detect the TV being
switched on remotely and then turn
on a receiver, amplifier, DVD player
or all three!
From the photos, you can see that
the IR Helper has simple hardware. It
uses two main modules: a small microcontroller module and an IR receiver
module. We have used a module rather
than a simple IR receiver because of
its handy onboard LED indicator; it is
also slightly cheaper.
An IR emitter LED is included so
that the IR Helper can transmit as well
as receive IR signals. The main processor is a compact Leonardo Tiny board
with a USB interface. The USB interface is used to display received codes
for testing, among other things.
We published an article in the
August 2018 issue titled “Turn any PC
into a media centre – with remote control!” (siliconchip.au/Article/11195).
These two projects use very similar
hardware, so you might be interested
in reading the earlier article to see
what else can be done with this basic
combination of parts.
Circuit details
Fig.1 is the wiring diagram. We
assembled our prototype by soldering
the parts to the Leonardo Tiny board,
using heatshrink tubing to protect the
exposed leads where necessary. You
could also use a full-sized Leonardo
board if you wanted to.
If you have the Arduino Beetle board
from the 2018 article, you could add
the IR Transmitter LED, updating the
hardware to suit this article, since
both projects use the same pin for the
IR receiver.
The IR Receiver Module incorporates one LED that illuminates when
the IR receiver chip sees a valid, mod-
Parts List – IR Helper (JMP010)
1 Leonardo Tiny board [Jaycar XC4431]
1 IR Receiver Module [Jaycar XC4427]
1 IR Transmitter LED [Jaycar ZD1946]
1 220W 1% ½W axial resistor [Jaycar RR0556]
1 3cm length of red wire [Jaycar WH3010]
1 3cm length of 5mm diameter heatshrink tubing [Jaycar WH5553]
66
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
ulated signal. The S pin of the module
goes low at the same time, signalling
to the processor in the Leonardo Tiny
that a signal has been received.
The Leonardo Tiny sends an IR signal by driving its A0 pin high, sending
current through the IR transmitter LED.
The pin does not have a lot of drive
capability, but it’s enough for transmitting commands over short distances.
The IR LED in your handheld IR
remote control will be driven much
harder than the one in the IR Helper,
but we expect that most readers will
situate their IR Helper near the devices
it is transmitting to. You can see that
the IR receiver and transmitter are on
opposite sides to facilitate this.
Assembly
Solder the short length of red wire
to the middle pin of the IR Receiver
module, then cover the exposed parts
of the pin and wire with a few centimetres of heatshrink tubing and shrink
it into place. Solder the two outer pins
of the module to the D11 and GND (−)
pins of the Leonardo Tiny, as shown in
the photos. Note that the module has
to be upside-down for this to happen.
Next, solder the other end of the red
wire to the 5V pad on the other side of
the Leonardo Tiny.
Prepare the LED by cutting the longer anode lead to around 5mm. Cut
one of the resistor’s leads to a similar length. Solder the two cut leads
together, then use the heatshrink tubing to cover most of the LED’s leads
separately.
This LED assembly can now be powered directly from a DC supply. You
could use this idea on a breadboard or
siliconchip.com.au
similar to add LEDs without needing
to wire up separate resistors.
Now solder the exposed ends of the
LED assembly to the A0 and GND pins
of the Leonardo Tiny. You should be
able to re-check the polarity by observing that the side of the LED with the
flat edge connects to GND.
You can do a quick test by applying
power and aiming a signal from an IR
remote control at the receiver module. Its indicator LED should flicker
while it is receiving a valid IR remote
control signal.
Arduino sketch
You can download the Arduino
sketch for this project: siliconchip.
au/Shop/6/450
If you don’t already have it, download and install the Arduino IDE from
www.arduino.cc/en/software
The sketch uses the “irremote”
library. This library contains just
about everything you need to send
and receive IR signals for all manner of
devices. To install it, search for “irremote” in the Arduino Library Manager and click the install button when
you find it. We used version 4.3.1 of
the library.
Then open and upload the IR_
HELPER sketch. You will need to customise your sketch to work with your
devices, but this is made easier since
the prototype sketch will also show
received codes on the Serial Monitor,
allowing you to find the correct protocol and codes for customisation.
Screen 1 shows the typical result
when two different buttons on the
same remote control are pressed. Note
how the sketch even displays the recommended Arduino code. We used
three for the <numberOfRepeats>, but
you could try increasing that if you
find that codes are not being received.
Fig.1: this wiring diagram shows how our prototype is connected, with
components and modules wired directly to the processor board. You could
instead use a full-sized Leonardo board with jumper wires to make the
connections.
Protocol=NEC Address=0xEF00 Command=0x3 Raw-Data=0xFC03EF00 32 bits LSB first
Send with: IrSender.sendNEC(0xEF00, 0x3, <numberOfRepeats>);
Protocol=NEC Address=0xEF00 Command=0x3 Repeat gap=40800us
Protocol=NEC Address=0xEF00 Command=0x2 Raw-Data=0xFD02EF00 32 bits LSB first
Send with: IrSender.sendNEC(0xEF00, 0x2, <numberOfRepeats>);
Protocol=NEC Address=0xEF00 Command=0x2 Repeat gap=40800us
Screen 1: the terminal output from the IR Helper shows the protocol, address
and command of received IR codes. The sketch also prints the necessary
Arduino code to replicate a received signal. Information about supported remote
control protocols is at https://github.com/Arduino-IRremote/Arduino-IRremote
Press the button you wish to emulate
and check its code using the sketch,
then copy it to the triggeredAction()
function of the sketch and upload it
again. You can then check whether the
transmitter works by typing ‘t’ into the
serial monitor.
The prototype sketch also sends this
code whenever it sees a code matching the RX_ADDRESS and RX_COMMAND values. The prototype sketch
will also run the powerOnAction()
function every time it is powered on;
you can add another IrSender command to that function if needed.
You would use this feature by plugging the IR Helper into the USB port
of a device like a TV, so that when it
is switched on, the powerOnAction()
is run. Since many remote controls
have a toggle action power button (ie,
pressing power can both switch the
device on and off), this can be a good
way to distinguish an ‘on’ action from
an ‘off’ action.
From here, you should be able to
see what changes you need to make
to fit the sketch to your situation. You
could also add other sensors to automate other functions. For example,
you could rig up a light or motion
sensor to switch on a lamp that has
IR remote control when it gets dark
or movement is detected.
The IR Helper could also be used
to add IR remote controls to devices
that do not have it by wiring up a
relay module to the Leonardo board
to switch things on or off upon receipt
SC
of certain commands.
The assembly is compact at just 10cm long.
We’ve left quite a bit of lead on the LED to allow
it to be bent for aiming purposes, but it could be
made shorter if necessary. The IR Receiver Module
is mounted upside-down (relative to the
Leonardo Tiny) so the pins
align with the correct
pads on the Leonardo
Tiny board.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 67
SILICON CHIP
Mini Projects #011 – by Tim Blythman
This simple circuit causes an RGB LED
to constantly shift between various
colours using just three transistors
and a handful of passives.
No-IC
Colour Shifter
S
ometimes, ICs and microcontrollers make things too easy. If you
want to understand electronics better,
using simpler components can help
reveal how things work at a lower
level.
This circuit is one of the simplest
versions of an ‘astable multivibrator’.
That is a circuit that changes state
continuously. Similar circuits form
the basis of a bistable multivibrator,
also known as a flip-flop or latch, the
basis of many types of computer memory. So these types of circuits are all
very important, even to modern digital technology.
A ‘monostable multivibrator’ provides a single pulse of a known duration when it is activated. That is
another similar circuit used where a
timing feature is needed.
Variations of this principle using
valves or vacuum tubes date back to
1919, well before the invention of the
integrated circuit (IC). We published
a Circuit Notebook entry that uses the
same principle (December 1995 issue;
siliconchip.au/Article/6078).
Three transistors, six resistors and
three capacitors are all it takes to make
an RGB LED flash and change colour.
Fig.1 shows how we have laid it out
on a breadboard, while Fig.2 shows
the equivalent circuit diagram. You
can see the layout in the photos and
this video (siliconchip.au/link/abwi).
It would be pretty straightforward
to solder these components to a Jaycar
HP9570 protoboard since it has much
the same layout as the breadboard. We
supplied 5V power by running some
jumper wires from an Arduino board
plugged into our computer, but you
might have something else on hand
to use.
The circuit uses PNP transistors to
allow us to use the common-cathode
version of the RGB LED module
Figs.1 & 2: this shows how we laid out the components on a breadboard. If
you leave off the capacitors and yellow wires, you’ll have three identical
sections, each feeding one of the individual LEDs of the RGB LED module.
The capacitors between stages are what cause the colour to shift constantly.
You can see how it works a little more clearly in the circuit diagram. One
capacitor charges until it switches on a stage that is currently off, and in doing so, switches another stage off. That
causes it to cycle through three colours: cyan (blue + green), mauve (blue + red) and yellow (green + red).
68
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(marked BRG−), which is what we got
from our local Jaycar store.
If you have a different version with
a common anode (perhaps marked
with something like BRG+ or BRGV),
you can use NPN transistors (such as
BC547s) instead. They have the same
pinout (but opposite polarity), so they
are placed the same way.
In that case, the capacitors need to
be reversed, as do the supply connections (the red and black wires) and
positive and negative breadboard connections. The alternative breadboard
layout is shown below in Fig.3 (note
the slightly different labelling on the
RGB LED module), while the resulting circuit is shown in Fig.4. In this
version, all currents will flow in the
opposite direction.
Circuit details
Imagine the circuit (Fig.2) without
the capacitors connecting between the
stages, which would have three identical but otherwise unconnected sections. You could simulate that on the
breadboard by removing the yellow
wires that link the stages.
The 10kW resistors allow current
to flow from the emitter of each transistor and out of the base to ground.
This biases on the transistors and
allows current to flow out of the collector, via the 220W resistors and one
of the LEDs in the RGB LED module to
ground, lighting it up. The RGB LED
would appear white, as all three elements would be lit.
Ensure the red wires go
to your 5V supply and the black
wires go to ground. We’ve used BC557 PNP
transistors to make the circuit work with the common-cathode
RGB LED module we purchased. You can build and test part of the circuit
by fitting all the components and wiring shown here except the yellow wires
and capacitors. Powering up the circuit at that stage lets you confirm that
the RGB LED is working and shows a solid white colour.
You can build the circuit like that,
leaving out the yellow links and confirming that is what happens. It’s a
good way to check that the wiring is
correct so far.
Now add the two shorter links and
all three capacitors, then power on the
circuit. The RGB LED might flicker but
will settle back to a solid white. Adding the longer link should cause the
RGB LED to cycle through the colours,
changing about once per second.
Before adding the link, all three
collectors are near 5V since all the
transistors are on. Adding the last link
pulls the base of the right-hand transistor (Q3) up to 5V too, switching it off.
The 10kW resistor slowly charges the
associated capacitor until Q3’s base
voltage drops far enough to allow it
to switch on. However, Q3’s collector
is connected to Q2’s base via another
capacitor. So Q3 switching on causes
Q2 to switch off.
Now the middle 10kW resistor
slowly charges up the next capacitor,
and the cycle continues around the
loop of three subcircuits. The colour
Figs.3 & 4: this layout is similar to Fig.1 but suits a common-anode RGB LED
module in case you come across one. The circuit at right is basically the same as
in Fig.2 but flipped upside-down, with the PNP transistors switched to NPN and
the polarised electrolytic capacitors reversed.
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September 2024 69
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A top-down view of the finished Colour Shifter. Note the capacitor orientations;
they are reversed on the version using NPN transistors (such as Jaycar ZT2152).
showing on the RGB LED changes as
it does.
The cycle will start even if the
circuit is powered on with all three
links in place. That’s because there is
enough variation in the component
values to ensure that one transistor
switches on before the others, which
will start the cycle.
You might have realised that the
electrolytic capacitors will sometimes
be reverse-biased, with the positive
end actually being more negative.
This will be at most around -0.7V
(limited by the 0.7V across the transistor base-emitter junction). Reverse
voltages below 1V are generally not a
problem for electrolytic capacitors as
the voltage is not high enough to affect
the insulating oxide layer.
Tweaks
EACH BLOCK OF ISSUES COSTS $100
NOVEMBER 1987 – DECEMBER 1994
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You could replace the RGB LED with
three individual LEDs if you like, or
even a discrete RGB LED like Jaycar’s
ZD0270. If you do this, double-check
the pinout and make sure the cathode
or cathodes (for individual LEDs) all
go to the black wire in Fig.1.
You could even add some jumper
wires to place the LED module fur-
ther away from the main board. You
can modify the capacitor values if
you want to change the cycle speed.
Higher capacitor values will slow the
rate (as they take longer to charge and
discharge), while lower values will
speed it up.
Experimentation
You might be wondering if the circuit will work with more than three
stages. We tried it with four & five
stages and found that the cycle did not
start reliably. If it did start, two or more
impulses travelled around the loop!
However, it works well with two
stages. If you build the circuit without the third stage, you should see the
two lights alternate, making it useful
for something like a model railway
level crossing.
Earlier, we mentioned that devices
like timers are closely related to this
circuit, even though they have different functions. If you swap one of the
capacitors with a wire link, the cycle
will run until it stalls on one colour.
If you remove that link, the colours
will change a few times, then stop
again, making it a very basic countSC
down timer.
Parts List – Colour Shifter (JMP011)
WWW.SILICONCHIP.COM.
AU/SHOP/DIGITAL_PDFS
1 30-row breadboard [Jaycar PB8820]
1 RGB LED module [Jaycar XC4428]
3 BC557 45V 100mA PNP transistors (Q1-Q3) [Jaycar ZT2164]
3 100μF 16V electrolytic capacitors [Jaycar RE6130]
3 10kW ½W 1% axial resistors [Jaycar RR0596]
3 220W ½W 1% axial resistors [Jaycar RR0556]
1 5V DC power supply (eg, USB/serial adaptor plugged into USB supply)
assorted solid-core wire [Jaycar PB8850]
70
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JANUARY 2015 – DECEMBER 2019
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Electronics Manufacturing
in Australia
Australia’s electronics manufacturing was world class. In the 1930s, over a
thousand Aussie radio manufacturers supplied local and international markets,
with production facilities ranging from home garages to massive factories that
compared to most in the world in size and product quality. Part 2 by Kevin Poulter
Captions, left-to-right, top-to-bottom:
• Nicholson’s had a fine HMV display, organised by the HMV ad department. Note the three theatre productions advertised in
banners at the top of the window. Many theatre booklets available at shows advertised the local radio & TV store.
• An AWA Radiogram from around 1954, photographed by Max Dupain for the leaflet.
• The EMI /HMV TV production line. Note the frames used to hold the partially assembled TVs.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 71
M
any of the largest plants were
branches of the big international
names like Philips, Pye and EMI.
Other big companies were inspired by
or agents of international companies.
For a long time, Amalgamated Wireless
of Australia (AWA) was linked to Marconi Ltd of the UK, while Astor drew
on the Radio Corporation of America
(RCA) for inspiration.
These arrangements resulted in
many items being designed in Australia and produced with manufacturing techniques and quality compared
to anywhere in the world. That was
boosted by staff emigrating to Australia
from countries like the UK to impart
their knowledge here.
AWA, in particular, made nearly all
products and parts in-house, including valves, transistors, stamped and
folded steel chassis and pressed Bakelite cases. Philips’ manufacturing was
centred in Hendon, South Australia,
where they also produced transistors.
However, it was reported that the
ordering process for Philips parts to
make radios went via Sydney and was
cumbersome, with long delays. So
Philips radios were known to be assembled with components from other
brands. Well-known local brand parts
like IRC resistors and Ducon capacitors
were installed in many local radios.
In the 1930s, radio factories often
made timber-case consoles at the factory; however, by the 1960s and 1970s,
both TV and radiogram cabinets were
often built to order by specialist furniture companies like Gainsborough
Furniture. They were then delivered
to the manufacturer to have the electronics installed. The furniture company’s name was often stamped inside
the cabinet.
Gainsborough established a plant
next to the Astor Clayton Works on
Clarinda Road, Clayton, Vic. The huge
3-in-1 (TV, radio and record player)
cabinets were coated with a nearly
indestructible polyurethane finish
that had superb gloss and resistance
to scratches.
Each 3-in-1 needed buffing before
despatch, but the cabinets were
extremely heavy. So big men from
Europe emigrated to Australia to lift
and buff them. This worked well, but
unfortunately, the dust from buffing
was a lung irritant, and many workers became ill (or worse) years later.
Large-scale manufacturers like
AWA, HMV & Philips were like little
72
Silicon Chip
Here the electronics are being installed into beautiful timber cabinets. Carpet
and soft materials were used everywhere to avoid scratches. Modern collectors
would love to have the brand-new turntables.
AWA made a massive statement of their superiority
in 1939 by building the AWA Tower as a new
headquarters in York Street, Sydney. AWA
was incorporated in 1913 and was the first to
manufacture commercial radios in Australia, in 1920.
The AWA Tower is now heritage listed.
An AWA Radola promotional photograph with actress
Alma Adey, circa 1953. Photograph by Max Dupain.
Valve Works
Manager Mr R.
Lambie inspects
the millionth
miniature valve
made by AWA
around 1950,
still hot from the
Sealex machine.
The valve is held
by Mr Kevin
Ward, while
operator Miss
Pat Wood starts
on the next.
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The Marketing departments produced
promotional materials like Point of sale
headers, leaflets and more. Prizes were
offered for competitions, plus anything
to showcase the new products. In the
1950s, it was much easier to use an
artist’s painting to produce a result with
accurate colours. Often the artwork was
based on a photograph. The header says
HMV Golden Jubilee Year – 1900 to 1950.
Below: testing a
completed HMV chassis,
sans CRT. A fixed CRT
for testing is above the
test technician.
cities, with their own post office (for
business mail), cafe, accounts (in and
out), purchasing, design, sales, shipping, machine shop, carpentry department, administration, managers, despatch/packing, order processing,
switchboard, pay office, tea and coffee
lady, and sometimes even a staff store.
The staff stores offered staff prices
significantly below retail. Staff in the
office would see a ‘mail girl’ arrive at
each desk once a day, as well as the
tea and coffee trolley in the morning
and afternoon. A charming lass also
delivered pay to every desk or work
area, so your work was never interrupted. The wages were delivered in
small envelopes as notes and coins.
Radio design
It’s reasonable to expect that the parent companies of international brands
would design products and send kits of
parts to Australia or supervise a worldwide design manufactured here. After
all, the Philips head office in Eindhoven, Netherlands, employed 2000
people, including more than 500 scientists in their research laboratories
during the early 1980s.
In practice, Australians designed
most locally-distributed products.
Philips Australia even set up a manufacturing plant at a university in
Bandung, on Indonesia’s main island.
AWA and Astor, plus many others,
designed local radios and machines
that reduced the number of employees needed. It was a hint of what was
to come in today’s robotic factories.
The larger companies boasted an
advertising manager in-house, with
photographers like Max Dupain and
later myself on contract. A lesser number, like EMI/HMV, had their own photographer. In the 1950s, professional
colour film was difficult to colour balance and still unusual, so outstanding
paintings were produced for colour
advertising in the likes of Women’s
Weekly.
There were still some engravings
made for best reproduction in newspapers. Many of the photographs here
were made on quality cameras, with 4
× 5-inch negatives (that’s postcard size,
around 100 × 125mm!), so the quality
was very good, mainly depending on
the lighting.
Manufacturers had special promotions; here, the Philips logo is on Frank Fry’s
aircraft (photo by Kevin Poulter). Frank was the world acrobatic champion.
Another major promotion was sponsoring Dire Straits’ Australian tour.
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Australia's electronics magazine
From design to customer
Parts were ordered once a product was designed, with some made
September 2024 73
This window
celebrates
the film
“The Great
Caruso”
from 1951.
Caruso was
the”Rock
Star” of
the early
1900s, with
millions of
followers.
The film
won an
Academy
Award for
“Best Sound
Recording”.
internally. When final production
began, the sales staff responded to
orders they received by raising an
internal order on the factory. Next,
the production supervisor managed
the factory supply schedule, sometimes coerced by enthusiastic salespeople pushing to get their orders
fulfilled first.
The completed products went
through testing processes and
remained allocated to internal orders,
which may have been 100 or more
units for one customer.
Testing involved checking many
performance factors. Military customers expected testing over a temperature range or testing after aging.
Mobile two-way radios would have a
bumpy ride in many cases, so a bump
machine was designed to test for loose
connections.
I witnessed a cost-cutting idea,
where only a percentage of radios
were tested, about 1 in 5 or 1 in 10.
This really sped up production, but
it was soon a disaster, as customers
found the units that didn’t work. Not
very good PR!
Shipping
An HMV radio and television display circa 1969. This was very likely at the
Royal Easter Show in Sydney.
On arrival at despatch, products
were packed for a safe passage. Packing for sea freight overseas required
something more sturdy than a cardboard box, so a specialist international freight-packing business often
made timber boxes for this purpose.
The inside of the box was lined with
waxed paper or something similar to
resist dampness and water incursion.
On at least one occasion, I filled a
large part of an aircraft with tonnes of
rack-mounted equipment and a later
shipment of many more tonnes via sea
to Kota Kinabalu, the state capital of
Sabah, Malaysia.
From the beginning of radio broadcasting, just 100 years ago, AWA supplied many of Australia’s broadcast
transmitters, so they made very large
shipments too.
Communications & Exports
Elvy Carnegie (Elvy’s) Radio TV Records, a multi-storey store circa 1958.
HMV put up a big display. Like other major stores, they offered in-home TV
demonstrations, erecting a TV antenna and even doing the paperwork for the
reception license required by the government.
Australian employees occasionally
travelled overseas to learn about the
latest technology. However, when the
local Philips K9 colour TV was doing
well, one of the Aussie technicians
turned the tables and went to Germany to help them with their version
of the K9. A noticeable servicing feature of the set was that the two main
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74
Silicon Chip
Left: a 1942 leaflet; despite a world at war, people were
still purchasing new radios. Most were revisions of existing
radios to avoid new tooling. Many domestic radio companies
also made military radios.
circuit boards would hinge open for
easy access.
Australia exported electronic products, especially communications
devices, to regions like Southeast Asia
and Pacific countries. At Pye, we had
a telex machine, which was like an
in-house telegram service.
International phone calls on the
lines transmitting telex were expensive. So, the telex operator would type
messages on a narrow paper punch
tape all day. Then, at the end of the
day, she would send the messages via
high-speed transmissions by pressing
“send”. The pre-punched tape would
feed through the telex, sending messages out very quickly.
I remember one telex coming in
from Kuala Lumpur asking Export
how long their order would take. My
first thought was, “wish you luck with
that enquiry”. After about a week, a
siliconchip.com.au
different approach from KL: “Are you
all dead? I would like a reply to my
delivery enquiry of last week.”
Marketing
Australians can make electronics
comparable to some of the best products in the world, but a company
is doomed without sales. So photographs and technical information were
needed for sales staff, service manuals,
newspaper and magazine advertising,
slides in theatres, attachments to contract pitches, sending to potential clients and more.
During the era of large console
radios in the 1930s, some consoles
were made as small replicas, about
the same size as a cathedral tabletop
radio. That allowed the salespeople
to transport and demonstrate the console more easily, as it had all the same
electronics – just in a smaller package!
Australia's electronics magazine
By the 1950s, plastic mantel radios
with no internal parts were made for
easy handling by the salesman so the
store owners could more easily see the
style of the mantel radio.
Competition
The market was big enough for a
fair number of manufacturers. AWA
and Astor were the main players,
with AWA being the strongest in its
home state of NSW and Astor being
the leader in Victoria. At various
times, each claimed to sell the most
radios in Australia. AWA boasted
the first fully Australian-made transistor radio.
It was an interesting time for retailing products. Have you ever wondered
why some radios were sold under multiple name badges?
For example, the Philips metal-cased
valve portable is still collected with
September 2024 75
All components were made in-house
During the 1920s and 1930s, AWA made virtually everything in house, including screws, resistors and foil capacitors, although the latter were sourced from
IRC and Ducon after WW2.
Bakelite moulding was a speciality for knobs, cabinets, component parts,
telephone handsets and parts for Sunbeam and Hotpoint appliances. AWA
had some of the largest specialised injection moulding presses in Australia for
precision moulding. Before tariffs were removed, AWA manufactured approximately 975,000 loudspeakers.
Many AWA
valves were
made under
license. It was
intricate work,
yet people said
valves were
expensive!
one of three brands: “Philips”, “Fleetwood” or “Mullard”. Well, it was to
increase sales.
Before Australia’s restrictive sales
legislation, a manufacturer could
refuse to supply electrical products to
some stores, especially if they already
had a good dealer in that town. The
existing dealer could force this, too,
by saying they would not stock the
brand if the nearby store could compete with him.
For example, a retailer in Gippsland
(Vic) applied to sell Philips products.
Philips told him he could not sell
Philips Radios, as his area already had
an outlet. “But no problem, you can
sell Mullard.” Philips owned Mullard
at the time, and this demonstrates one
of the reasons for rebadging!
so they were not seen on the production line.
In the panorama of the production
line image in this article, a male supervisor watches to check that there is little or no talking and that everyone is
dedicated to the task in front of them.
After the TV finishes going through
each sub-assembly, the completed
chassis is transferred to a man in the
inspection department.
If it passes visual inspection, he runs
the TV through its electronic testing
and visual paces, including stability
and linearity, using a test pattern on
the screen. The men were selected for
this role due to their training at Radio
Colleges.
The Astor brand
shop in Melbourne. The brand name
Astor was coined when Sir Arthur
Warner was staying at the Astor Hotel
in New York, and he thought, “That’s
a good name.”
Looking at Astor’s 1964 “Your Job”
booklet reveals a lot about electronics manufacturing in the 1960s. Each
employee worked from 9am to 5pm
and had a number to clock in and out
with. Lunch was just half an hour, even
though the canteen served big meals
and there was a queue to get yours.
‘Reverse sexism’ and chivalry meant
that female employees got ten-minute
morning and afternoon tea breaks.
Referring to toilet breaks was frowned
upon, so they were likely intended as
toilet breaks.
Working in the Astor accounts
department was a superior position.
Still, in 1964, the weekly pay was just
six pounds, twelve shillings ($13.20
in decimal currency or about $220
per week in today’s inflation-adjusted
dollars). However, money went much
further at that time.
Employment was on a weekly basis,
which sounds extremely brief, but I
never saw it exercised. You could be
dismissed without notice for “malingering, inefficiency, neglect of duty or
misconduct”. Even in non-union companies, the employee was highly valued in the 1950s and 1960s, as there
was nearly 100% employment.
When I applied as a 16-year-old,
I was shown around the factory and
then asked if I could start on Monday!
There were no queues out the door, like
in many places where people apply
for jobs today.
All employees were required to have
a medical examination before starting,
supposedly for their benefit. This was
so they would only be required to do
work within their health limitations.
On the positive side, the company
usually selected candidates for senior
positions from existing employees.
Lifting the veil
Electronic Industries, later Astor,
began in 1923 in a small basement
Many of the EMI/HMV photographs
here are the only ones in existence,
published here for the first time. They
show more than many words could
describe. The big factories had rows
of women, usually housewives, each
assembling a small portion of products like TVs. These ladies were the
backbone of the assembly and had the
wonderful character of not being too
bored by repetitive tasks.
Males were considered more ambitious, with a shorter attention span,
Philips AC/Battery portable radios about 1953. For marketing purposes, these
radios were badged either Philips, Fleetwood or Mullard; one of each is shown.
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Negotiation for a pay rise was almost
unheard of, although the company
stated they would review pay from
time to time.
What happened to Australian
electronics manufacturing?
A parliamentary submission after
the big electronics nose-dive into collapse says it well: “The demise of Australian manufacturing started when
the then Prime Minister Mr Gough
Whitlam took advice from the Industries Assistance Commission and (in
1973) reduced tariffs by 25%. The
country could not compete with the
low wages in Asian countries.”
I saw mass closures of electronics
factories shortly after, and talented
Australians were left without a job.
Companies like Philips Mobile Communications had lower sales due to
cheaper imports from companies like
Motorola. Then, with the advent of
mobile phones, sales plummeted.
Philips threw in the towel and
shipped essential production equipment to China. A good number of
Philips two-way comms staff were
later employed by Simoco Australia,
who develop and sell the latest communications equipment.
Radios and TVs were given to excited viewers and listeners as prizes. This
publicity was cheaper than paid advertising.
Who owns AWA now?
The answer will surprise many.
After their radio sales fell to unsustainable levels, they ran AWA Computer Services for a while. Eventually,
the copyright and trademarks for the
radio side of the business apparently
lapsed, so cheap imported products
had AWA badges.
Cabrini Catholic Hospital in Melbourne wanted to continue using the
IP in the software that was important
to running the hospital, so Cabrini is
now the owner of AWA.
Entrepreneurs became very successful importers, including Dick Smith
and the late Gary Johnston of Jaycar.
In an address to the HRSA, Dick Smith
said the upheaval was good for Australia, as we then all paid much less
for electronics, including TVs.
Certainly, Australians can now purchase and import an amazing array of
electronic technology. Only speciality local manufacturing remains, like
producing technology for satellites
and radio imaging to detect food production problems. Many who worked
in electronics will say, “It was great
while it lasted.”
SC
siliconchip.com.au
Above: Astor valve radio
production. The frame
holding a chassis in the
foreground is a simple timber
truss.
Astor chassis are punched
in one operation on these
automatic presses. After
stamping the holes for valve
sockets etc, the metal is
cadmium plated. Cadmium,
and the compounds formed
when it corrodes, are toxic by
ingestion and acutely toxic if
inhaled.
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 77
Discrete Ideal
This deceptively simple circuit uses just a handful
of transistors, diodes and resistors. But it still
provides a very useful function: active rectification of
the output of a centre-tapped transformer or combining
two DC supplies with low losses. It is much more efficient
than a bridge rectifier or diodes at higher currents, producing
less heat without costing much more.
Project by Phil Prosser & Ian Ashford
T
he Ideal Diode Bridge Rectifiers
project, published in December
2023 (siliconchip.au/Article/16043),
included six different PCB designs to
suit different situations. It was popular, with many built, but two aspects of
that design bothered me (and others).
Firstly, it used a pretty expensive
custom IC, with the SMD version being
a bit tricky to solder. Secondly, despite
that expense, it could only handle rectifying the output of a single transformer secondary. So you couldn’t use
it at all with a centre-tapped secondary, and two complete boards were
required to derive split rails from a
transformer with separate secondaries, doubling the cost.
Wouldn’t it be nice to have a direct
drop-in replacement for a bridge rectifier that could handle single, dual or
tapped secondaries? And it’d be great
to use standard parts, so we don’t need
to source that expensive IC.
Reader Ian Ashford sent us a circuit design he uses for dual-rail rectification but didn’t have a PCB design.
When the Editor asked me if I wanted
to turn it into a full-on project, there
was only one possible answer to that!
Ian and I performed further testing,
development and tweaking, finally
arriving at this very flexible, robust
and useful circuit.
So, this project is a collaboration
that follows the ideal rectifier theme
but with a different focus from the previous design.
When to use this design
As well as rectifying a transformer’s
output(s), this design is also suitable
for combining DC supplies with low
losses, eg, combining the output of a
solar panel and a battery, or a solar
panel and wind generator.
While it costs a little more than a
bridge rectifier to build, it is significantly more efficient at higher currents
and has a much lower voltage loss. So
it’s ideal for high-power devices like
power supplies and audio amplifiers.
Its only real drawbacks are a limited voltage handling capability (up
to ±40V or +80V) and the fact that it’s
larger than a 35A bridge rectifier, so
you’ll need room to fit the PCB.
This project uses high-current, low
RDS(on) Mosfets. To keep the circuit
simple, we have used P-channel Mosfets on the positive rail and N-channel
Mosfets on the negative rail. If your
current demands are only modest,
you could use the ubiquitous IRF9540
(P-channel) and IRF540 (N-channel)
power Mosfets, which are available
from Altronics and Jaycar. They can
handle up to about 5A.
Much more significant currents can
be handled using the devices in the
parts list, which are not all that expensive but are unlikely to be available
from your local shop (but kits are available). All the other parts in the design
are bog-standard, and you will surely
have them in your parts drawer or at
your local shop.
Design process
Between Ian’s initial email with the
circuit he uses in DC and low-power
Figs.1(a) & (b): the two main ways to use the Discrete Ideal
Bridge Rectifier. At the top, a centre-tapped transformer
secondary winding is used to generate split (positive and
negative) rails. Two separate secondaries can also be used if
they are connected in series. The connections at right show
how to use the same board to combine the outputs of two DC
supplies (the solar panel and battery are just examples). OUT+ will be fed by whichever has a higher voltage.
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Bridge Rectifier
» Generates split rails (positive and negative DC supplies) from a single
centre-tapped transformer secondary (or two secondaries wired in
series)
» It can also be used to combine two DC supplies (whichever has a higher voltage
feeds the load)
» Maximum output voltage: ±40V or +80V (transformer applications), +40V (combining
DC supplies)
» Maximum current: 10A RMS without heatsinking, more with heatsinking
» Typical voltage drop: <100mV input-to-output
» Typical dissipation: 1.7W <at> 5A RMS, 6.8W <at> 10A RMS
AC applications and the final design
presented here, we exchanged many
ideas, questions and refinements.
Some requirements we decided on are:
; A low part count was important.
; The design had to ‘just work’
without tweaks.
; Reverse current when Mosfets
switch on and off had to be minimal
in all applications.
Many ideas were shared, and challenges were presented in every direction. In the process, the conceptual
circuit grew to something larger and
more complicated than was strictly
necessary. It was at this stage that we
tabled those design goals.
Ian was keen to keep the size of the
board down, so we designed a throughhole version and an alternative that
uses some SMDs to fit in tighter spaces.
We realised that this would never be
the size of a conventional bridge rectifier, so we just aimed to produce
reasonably-sized boards that would
likely fit into an existing chassis but
that aren’t too fiddly to build either.
The final design is vastly ‘tighter’
than the test board. I often build a prototype board that is purely functional
and worry about improving the layout
later, once I’ve proven it works.
In discussing what changes were
warranted to Ian’s concept, achieving
a design that ‘just worked’ became
important. That led to the introduction
of constant current sources as loads
in the design. It makes the operation
largely independent of supply rail
voltage and allows constructors to use
the Ideal Bridge with 9-25V AC transformers without any changes.
We also changed the sense circuit
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to only switch on the Mosfet when
the input is at a programmed voltage above the rectified output. This
blocks reverse currents and allows it
to be safely used for combining DC
supplies, which might be very close
in voltage at times.
The resulting circuit is simple and
works well. We’ll get to a couple of
subtleties later in the description,
once we’ve gone over its operating
principle.
Two versions
There are two PCBs for this project: an SMD version and a throughhole version. They use the same circuit. The SMD version is smaller than
the through-hole version, which may
be helpful in some circumstances. It
doesn’t use any tiny parts (the resistors are M3216/1206 and there are
SOT23 transistors), so it isn’t hard to
assemble.
Both versions use the same TO-220
(through-hole) Mosfets. That is
because it makes it easy to add flag
heatsinks if necessary for your application. High-current SMD Mosfets
are available, but they are trickier to
heatsink if necessary and will take
up more room than a TO-220 in this
application.
Design limitations
This circuit is suitable for rectifying the output of dual or split secondary transformers where the junction of the windings from the ground
point for output capacitors, as shown
in Fig.1(a).
This design will work if you have
a transformer with a single secondary
Australia's electronics magazine
winding, but the switching could be
noisy. ICs like the LT4320 used in the
December 2023 designs switch the
bottom Mosfets on for a full half-cycle
to ensure clean switching. So, for that
sort of application, we recommend you
build one of the designs we published
then (kits are available at siliconchip.
au/Shop/?article=16043).
Regarding how much current the
board can handle, P-channel Mosfets
typically have a higher RDS(on) figure
than N-channel Mosfets. This means
that the positive-rail Mosfets will be
the limiting factor in how much current can be drawn due to their voltage drop and consequent power dissipation.
We have avoided the complexity of
a gate drive boost circuit there. Using
one would have allowed us to use four
identical N-channel Mosfets, but we
didn’t think that was worth the extra
parts and possibly new failure modes.
Up to about 10A, the Mosfets will
not require heatsinking, although it
wouldn’t hurt to add small flag heatsinks above 5A. Above 10A, you must
add a substantial flag heatsink on each
Mosfet. Decent flag heatsinks should
let it handle at least 15A. Beyond that,
you might need a more serious cooling solution, like forced airflow over
heatsinks.
Circuit details
The circuit is shown in Fig.2. Unlike
the previous Ideal Bridge Rectifier,
this circuit can have its inputs connected across a single secondary or
a pair of series-connected secondaries to generate split supply rails. In
those cases, the secondary winding’s
September 2024 79
centre tap does not connect to this circuit. Instead, it connects to the output
capacitor bank ground and the load’s
ground, as shown in Fig.1(b).
So that it can produce split rails, it
contains two similar sections stacked
on top of each other. They would be
identical except that they have opposite polarities to handle current flowing in opposite directions. The upper
section uses two P-channel Mosfets,
four PNP bipolar junction transistors
(BJTs) and two NPN BJTs. The lower
section has two N-channel Mosfets,
four NPN BJTs and two PNP BJTs.
Each of the four sections senses
the input AC voltage at one terminal.
When it is about 34mV greater in magnitude than the output voltage (higher
than the positive rail or lower than the
negative rail), the corresponding Mosfet is switched on by driving its gate
with an appropriate voltage.
We only want the Mosfet on when
the input exceeds the output by a small
margin to ensure that the Mosfet is off
when these voltages are equal and that
there is no chance the Mosfet is on as
the input voltage magnitude drops
below the output.
If that were to occur, current would
reverse and flow from the capacitor
bank through the transformer, creating
current spikes and a great deal of electrical noise, plus possibly overheating
the Mosfets.
Fig.2: the Ideal Bridge Rectifier circuit comprises two identical sections at the top to deliver current to the DC OUT+
terminal, with two more sections below to handle current flow through the DC OUT− terminal. The lower sections are
‘mirror images’ of the upper sections, with components of opposite polarity (NPN transistors instead of PNP etc). The
circuit is the same for the TH and SMD versions; the alternative devices are direct equivalents except for their packages.
80
Silicon Chip
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siliconchip.com.au
As the four separate sections all
work the same way, let’s concentrate
on the one shown in the upper-left
corner of Fig.2. The voltage sensing
circuit comprises diodes D1 and D2
plus PNP transistors Q5 and Q6. Q5
acts as a diode, since its base and collector are joined.
Ignoring the 68W resistor for now,
with a constant current flowing
through these transistors, both will
conduct if the AC input voltage at
CON3 is the same as the DC output
voltage at CON1. If Q6 is on, Mosfet
Q1’s gate voltage is high, and it is off.
As the input voltage increases, Q6
switches off, so the gate of Mosfet Q1
is pulled low by its 22kW collector
resistor – see Scope 1.
The 68W resistor is important as it
alters how the comparator works. The
total current through the two 22kW
collector resistors is determined by a
constant current sink comprising NPN
transistors Q7 and Q8. On the positive
cycle for the AC1 input, about 0.5mA
is drawn through each of these resistors (as well as the matching pair for
Q9 & Q10).
This 0.5mA flows through the transistor and diode pairs Q5/D1 and Q6/
D2, which drop the voltage by about
1.2V, but on the AC input path, it also
flows through the 68W resistor, dropping 34mV or so in the process.
This extra voltage drop means we
draw more current from the base of Q6
than Q5 until the AC input is 34mV
above the output voltage. Mosfet Q1
remains switched off until that condition is met. Once the input exceeds the
output by 34mV, Q6 starts switching
off and the Mosfet switches on. This
charges the output capacitors until
they get to 34mV below the input.
Essentially, the circuit contains a
negative feedback loop, where Q5 and
Q6 try to maintain a 34mV difference
across the Mosfet by controlling its
gate voltage. Without the 68W resistor,
they would try to maintain 0V across
the Mosfet, and due to various tolerances in the circuit, the Mosfet might
be held on all the time, which is not
what we want!
As a result, at lower load currents,
we are not simply switching the Mosfet
hard on and off; instead, it is operating
in linear mode with a low voltage drop
across it due to the negative feedback.
Part of that voltage drop is a result of
the RDS(on) of the Mosfet, while part is
from the gate voltage being moderated,
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Scope 1: an
oscilloscope grab of
the Ideal Bridge in
operation, showing
rectification of the
voltage at the AC1
terminal. The pink
trace is the output
voltage at 5A, cyan
is the AC input
voltage, and yellow
is the gate drive for
Mosfet Q1, which
peaks at about -8V.
Scope 2: the
Discrete Ideal
Bridge starting
into two 35,000μF
capacitor banks.
This is a pretty
brutal thing to do to
any bridge. Usually,
you would use a
soft-start circuit
to keep the initial
current surge under
control. Still, the
Bridge survived it!
which we can see in the oscilloscope
screen grabs.
As the load current increases, we
see the sense circuit driving the Mosfet harder, ie, its Vgs increasing until
it is 12V, at which point the gate protection zener diode (ZD1 in this case)
conducts to prevent the Mosfet gate
from being driven beyond its ratings.
If you look at the scope images (especially Scope 4), you will see that when
drawing high currents, the circuit transitions from the linear feedback operation to driving the Mosfet fully on with
12V. This occurs because the voltage
drop across the Mosfet exceeds 34mV
due to its minimum RDS(on).
As a result of the way we are driving the Mosfet, there is little value in
utilising ultra-low RDS(on) Mosfets in a
dual-rail bridge. 10mW or so is fine. We
felt this was the sweet spot at which
the voltage drop across the Mosfets
is defined by the feedback loop up to
about 5-6A. Because of how Mosfets
are made, P-channel Mosfets tend to
have a higher RDS(on).
The constant current sink based
around Q7 & Q8 is a standard two-
transistor current source/sink configuration. We could have tied this
to the output ground and reduced
the dissipation in transistor Q7, but
we chose to tie it to the negative output rail for the positive rail comparators and positive rail for the negative
comparators.
This is because it gives maximum
gate drive to the Mosfets for low-
voltage operation, especially during
startup when massive currents are
often drawn for charging capacitor
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September 2024 81
Scope 3: a close-up of
the rectified output.
Again, pink is the
output, cyan is the
AC input, and yellow
is the gate drive. This
neatly shows the
Mosfet switching as
the AC input voltage
slightly exceeds the
DC output voltage.
Scope 4: the negative
rail behaviour, which
is a ‘mirror image’
of the positive rail.
Driving the rectified
12V AC into a 1W
load is clearly giving
the transformer a
workout, as seen by
the flattened top and
bottom of the cyan
waveform. Under
these conditions, it
would be advisable to
mount a flag heatsink
to each Mosfet as
they individually
dissipate about 1.5W.
banks. This reduces dissipation in
the Mosfets during these high-stress
phases of operation. It also has the
benefit of the PCB not needing a GND
connection.
If you look at Scope 2, which shows
the startup behaviour, the Mosfet has
over 10V of gate drive in the first cycle
of operation. One benefit of using a
constant current source/sink is that the
circuit’s behaviour is mostly independent of the operating voltage, as long
as it’s above the minimum threshold
required to bias on the Mosfets.
The 22kW resistors in the circuit
allow one current source/sink to drive
the sense amplifiers for both input
rails. The actual value of these resistors
is not that important, although we
don’t want a large voltage drop across
them so that we can use the Ideal
Bridge at modest AC input voltages.
For the PCB layout we need to consider the thermal characteristics of D1,
D2, Q5 and Q6 (the sense amplifier).
Silicon diodes have a -2.1mV/°C thermal coefficient for their forward voltage drop, so for every 1°C increase in
temperature of a diode junction, its
forward voltage falls by 2.1mV.
This means that if one diode is hotter than the other, we will get an error
in the switching voltage. A similar
effect is seen with the base-emitter
voltages of Q5 and Q6. For this reason,
we have placed the diodes right next
Application Max current
Low-Current Full Bridge
2-3A no heatsink
Max voltage
N-channel
P-channel
Source/comments
40V
IRF540
IRF9540
Altronics & Jaycar
IRFB4410ZPBF
SUP70101EL-GE3
IRF135B203
IXTP76P10T
±40V
High-Current Full Bridge 10A no heatsink
DC Combining 5A no heatsink
DC Combining 10A no heatsink
to one another, and placed the transistors so they can be glued together.
This will ensure our switching margins are stable even as the board heats
and cools during use.
The ‘sense’ transistors (Q5 & Q6, Q9
& Q10 etc) only ever have 12V across
their collector-emitter junctions, so
we have specified standard BC546-9
or 556-9 devices (or their SMD equivalents, BC8xx).
However, the current source/sink
transistors will have the full dual rail
voltage across them, which could be
up to ±40V or 80V total. Therefore,
we have specified MPSA42/92 transistors for these (or the SMD equivalents, MMBTAx2).
These standard high-voltage, lowpower devices are available from all
the larger online suppliers. If you have
±25V or lower voltage rails, you could
use BC546/556/846/856 transistors
there instead. It is important to consider that the BC546/BC556 have the
opposite pinout to the MPSA42/92
transitors, so you would need to install
them backwards if you do this.
Luckily, for the SMD transistors, the
BC846/856 series SMD pinouts are the
same as the MMBTA42/92 pinouts, so
they are a direct swap for applications
below ±25V.
Note that the 47kW resistor values
were chosen to allow operation from
low voltages to about ±40V at the output. At the upper limit, the 47kW resistors will dissipate 130mW each. While
that is well within the ratings of a 1/4W
resistor, we have specified 1/2W resistors just to be safe.
If you will only use this bridge at
the higher end of its voltage range,
you could increase those resistor values slightly to, say, 68kW. That will
reduce their dissipation to a maximum
±30V
As above
12-24V
Not required
12-24V
Not required
Table 1 – examples of suitable MosfetsAustralia's electronics magazine
SUP90P06
Mouser, DigiKey &
Silicon Chip kit
IXTP96P085T
IRF9540
Altronics & Jaycar
100mV/A drop
SUP90P06-09L-E3
Mouser & DigiKey
7.4mV/A drop
SUP70101EL-GE3
Mouser & DigiKey
11.4mV/A drop
IRF4905
Mouser & DigiKey
siliconchip.com.au
of 94mW, so 1/4W resistors should be
fine. You could also lower their values
for low-voltage applications, although
that shouldn’t be necessary.
Startup behaviour
Scope 2 shows the circuit starting
up when AC power is first applied. On
that first cycle, the AC input blue trace
goes negative. This charges the negative capacitor to about 5V, although we
don’t have a plot of the negative rail
here – we know that the negative and
positive rails will be about the same.
The Mosfet body diode conducts on
this cycle in the absence of voltage at
the Mosfet gate (due to the low initial
voltage). Once there are a few volts on
the output rails, the constant current
source/sink and BJT-based voltage
sense circuits kick in. By the time we
are into the first positive excursion of
the AC1 input in cyan, we can see the
gate drive pulling the gate low (in yellow), having already charged the large
capacitor bank enough in the first cycle.
Indeed, the gate voltage on that
P-channel Mosfet goes below 0V, being
pulled toward the negative rail, and
we see a full 12V on that P-channel
Mosfet gate in the first real cycle of
operation. This shows the benefit of
connecting the current source/sink to
the opposite rail rather than ground.
I love the simplicity of circuits like
this, which squeeze more out of a
handful of components than seems
reasonable. I also like going back to
basics and using BJTs in the current
sink and sense amplifier.
PCB layout
We touched on some PCB layout
considerations earlier. There are a few
aspects of the PCB design that are very
important:
Parts List – Discrete Ideal Bridge Rectifier
4 6.3mm pitch PCB-mount vertical spade connectors (CON1-CON4)
[Altronics H2094, Jaycar PT4914]
2 SUP70101EL 100V 120A P-channel Mosfets, TO-220 (Q1, Q2)
2 IRFB4410ZPBF 100V 97A N-channel Mosfets, TO-220 (Q3, Q4)
Resistors (1% ¼W axial – TH version | 1% ¼W M3216/1206 – SMD version)
4 100kW 2 47kW 0.5/0.6W (5% OK)
8 22kW
2 330W
4 68W
Through-hole version
1 double-sided PCB coded 18108241, 87.5 × 45.5mm
4 BC556/7/8/9 100mA PNP transistors, TO-92 (Q5-Q6, Q9-Q10)
2 MPSA42 300V 500mA NPN transistors, TO-92 (Q7, Q8)
2 MPSA92 300V 500mA PNP transistors, TO-92 (Q15, Q16)
4 BC546/7/8/9 100mA NPN transistors, TO-92 (Q17-Q20)
4 12V 0.4W zener diodes, DO-35 (ZD1-ZD4) [Altronics Z0332]
12 1N4148 75V 200mA diodes, DO-35 (D1-D12)
SMD version
1 double-sided PCB coded 18108242, 54.5 × 54.5mm
4 BC856/7/8/9 100mA PNP transistors, SOT-23 (Q5-Q6, Q9-Q10)
2 MMBTA42 300V 500mA NPN transistors, SOT-23 (Q7, Q8)
2 MMBTA92 300V 500mA PNP transistors, SOT-23 (Q15, Q16)
4 BC846/7/8/9 100mA NPN transistors, SOT-23 (Q17-Q20)
4 12V ¼W zener diodes, SOT-23 (ZD1-ZD4) [BZX84C12]
12 1N4148WS 75V 150mA diodes, SOD-323 (D1-D12) [Altronics Y0162]
For combining DC supplies, halve the numbers of all components except the
PCB and spade connectors.
– TH version kit (SC6987, $30)
– SMD version kit (SC6988, $27.50)
● The layout of the current sense
amplifier with its two transistors, two
1N4148 diodes and 68W resistor is kept
very tight as it must accurately sense
small voltages with relatively low bias
currents.
● The sense transistor pairs, like
Q5 and Q6, are face-to-face, so you
can super glue these together to keep
them as tightly thermally coupled as
possible (or add a smear of thermal
paste between them). On the SMD
version, these parts are tight against
one another.
The SMD version of the
Discrete Ideal Bridge
Rectifier is 54.5 ×
54.5mm, while the
through-hole only is
a bit larger at 45.5
× 87.5mm (not
shown to scale).
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Both kits include the PCB and
everything that mounts on it
● The pairs of 1N4148 diodes (D1
& D2) are right next to one another,
so they stay at similar temperatures.
● The path from the AC inputs
through the Mosfets and to the DC outputs is kept as short as possible and
uses large copper fills to maximise the
current carrying capacity of the PCB.
PCBs do not have a fixed ‘current rating’, but we must ensure that the voltage drop and heating in the tracks is
reasonable at any current likely to be
drawn. At the AC1 input, which has
the thinnest connection to the Mosfet,
we have parallel copper on the top and
bottom layers of the PCB.
September 2024 83
83
Fig.3(a) & (b): the full-populated through-hole version of the PCB (left) and the reduced version for combining DC supplies
only (right). The full version can also be used to combine DC supplies. Watch the diode and Mosfet orientations, and
remember that Q7/Q8 and Q15/Q16 need to be reversed if you are using BC546/BC556 transistors instead for lower voltage
applications, compared to what’s shown here.
Mosfet selection
We have included 100V low-RDS(on)
Mosfets in the parts list. They only cost
a few dollars each and work well. If
selecting alternative Mosfets, look for a
voltage rating well above the rail voltage you want; we feel that 80-100V is
about right. Select an RDS(on) of 10mW
or less.
The P-channel Mosfet will usually
have a higher RDS(on); there is little
point in selecting N-channel Mosfets with a significantly lower on-
resistance than the P-channel devices
you will be using.
For lower currents, you can get
away with less expensive Mosfets.
Even though the savings in dissipation
won’t be as great, the reduction in voltage loss can still make this design very
beneficial in lower-current designs.
For example, we used IRF540/
IRF9540 Mosfets from Altronics in
some tests, and it was fine up to about
3A, still giving a much lower voltage drop than a conventional bridge.
Table 1 includes some advice on Mosfet selection.
Construction
The through-hole version is built on
a double-sided PCB coded 18108241
that measures 54.5 × 87.5mm, while
the SMD version is coded 18108242
and is a bit smaller at 54.5 × 54.5mm.
For the former, refer to the Fig.3(a) PCB
overlay diagram, while Fig.4(a) is the
overlay for the SMD version.
The smallest SMD parts are the SOT23 transistors and SOD-323 diodes.
These are large enough that they are
not too challenging if you have a desk
magnifier and a reasonably good soldering iron.
If you are using it to combine solar
panels or DC power sources, you can
leave off all the negative rail parts,
shown in a dashed box in Fig.1. These
Figs.4(a) & (b): the SMD versions of the PCB, with the full version on the left
and the DC combining version only on the right. If substituting BC846/BC856
transistors for the MMBTA types, you don’t need to change how they are fitted
to the board. Only diodes D1-D12 and the Mosfets could be easily installed
backwards, so ensure they aren’t.
84
Silicon Chip
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versions are shown in the alternative
overlay diagrams, Figs.3(b) & 4(b).
Start by fitting all the resistors. Follow with the diodes, making sure you
orientate them correctly, with the cathode stripes facing as in the relevant
PCB overlay diagram. We found that
for the SOD-323 SMD diodes we got,
it was tough to tell which end was the
cathode. If unsure, use a magnifier or
a DMM set on diode test mode.
Next, solder the signal transistors in
place. As mentioned earlier, if you are
using this at low voltages only, you can
use all BC546/556/846/856 transistors
throughout. If you do this, remember
that the through-hole devices for Q7,
Q8, Q15 & Q16 must be rotated by
180°, as the MPSA42/92 types have a
different pinout.
Mount the 12V zener diodes next.
The SMD SOT-23 parts are small and
in the same packages as the bipolar
transistors, so make sure you don’t
mix them up. Place them with tweezers and tack one leg, allowing you
to adjust it (if necessary) by reheating
the initial joint before soldering the
remaining leads.
Fit the power Mosfets next. Watch
the layout here, as they face in alternate directions on the board to optimise the track layout. Also, don’t get
the two different types mixed up. Tack
one leg of each and fiddle them so they
are neatly aligned and the same height,
then solder the remaining leads.
Finally, mount the 6mm connectors. You could solder wires directly to
the board, but we reckon using crimp
spade lugs is much neater.
Testing
We suggest testing the board in two
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PIC Programming Adaptor
Our kit includes everything required to build the Programming Adaptor,
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Use the Adaptor with an in-circuit programmer such as the Microchip
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Tested PICs include: 16F15213/4, 16F15323, 16F18146, 16F18857, 16F18877,
16(L)F1455, 16F1459, 16F1709, dsPIC33FJ256GP802, PIC24FJ256GA702,
PIC32MX170F256B and PIC32MX270F256B
Learn how to build it from the article in the September 2023 issue of
Silicon Chip (siliconchip.au/Article/15943). And see our article in the
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the Programmer (siliconchip.au/Article/15977).
Complete kit available from $55 + postage
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/20/6774 – Catalog SC6774
halves. The following steps test the
two positive sections.
1. Connect the Bridge outputs to
an electrolytic capacitor of at least
470μF. Make sure you get the polarity correct.
2. Connect the negative of a 12-24V
power supply to the negative of your
capacitor and the positive to either of
the AC inputs. If you can set a current limit, set it to a few hundred milliamps.
3. Switch on the supply and check
that the capacitor charges up to the
input voltage.
4. Put a 100W 1W resistor (or similar) across the capacitor and check
that the voltage across it does not
droop significantly (no more than
100mV).
This verifies that the appropriate
Mosfets are on; otherwise, the voltage would drop by 600mV or more. It
also confirms there are no catastrophic
shorts, or you would get smoke.
Now test the other AC input using
the same method.
If you run into trouble in either
case, go through the following checklist below:
1. Is your power supply going into
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current limiting? Use a multimeter to
check for the expected voltage at the
AC input.
2. Are your Mosfets the right way
around?
3. Check that the diodes are all orientated correctly. If any are wrong, the
Rectifier will not work.
4. Check your soldering and look for
solder bridges.
5. Check that the current sink and
source work by measuring the voltage
between the base and emitter pins of
Q8 and Q16. The reading should be
close to 0.6V in both cases. Also check
for a ~600mV Vbe on Q7 and Q15. If the
readings are low, check that the associated 47kW resistors are OK.
6. Check the voltage across the zener
diodes. Are they the right way around?
If the capacitor bank is charged up
and there is no load resistor, the voltage across them should be low, while
you should get a reading of several
volts with the 100W resistor across
the capacitor.
7. If the behaviour is correct for one
AC input of the Bridge but not the
other, check the circuitry around the
misbehaving input and compare voltages to the other half.
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8. If both inputs don’t work, you
have a systematic problem since they
are essentially independent.
Having tested it with one polarity,
switch off the supply and connect
its positive output to DC OUT+ on
the Bridge and the negative of your
power supply to one of the input terminals. You should see the capacitor
charge up to the input voltage again.
Proceed with testing in this configuration as above.
Using it
Once installed, it will pretty well
look after itself. Refer to Figs.1(a) &
(b) to see how the connections should
be made. If you expect to draw continuous high currents from the power
supply, you will probably want to put
some flag heatsinks on the Mosfets.
Aside from that, you should find that
it just works.
Remember that you may need a
mains soft-starting system if you have
a really substantial capacitor bank and
low-impedance transformer like in a
big audio amplifier.
We published such a design in April
2012 (“SoftStarter”; siliconchip.au/
Article/705).
SC
September 2024 85
Project by Brandon Speedie
upgrade your instrument with these
Electric & Bass Guitar
Pickguards
The control circuitry on electric basses has remained remarkably simple since
Leo Fender first introduced the instrument over 70 years ago. These modern
PCBs offer more advanced features and a cool aesthetic. They suit many popular
models of electric bass as well as the Fender Telecaster electric guitar.
Image source: https://unsplash.com/photos/teal-and-brown-electric-guitar-phS37wg8cQg
M
ost electric guitars and
basses have circuitry built
into the instrument’s body.
Typically, it includes a passive network of potentiometers and capacitors
to give the musician control of output
volume and ‘tone’. The standard configuration is shown in Fig.1.
The volume control is a potentiometer that divides the audio signal voltage from the pickup(s). The tone control is an adjustable low-pass filter to
reduce the amount of treble and therefore change the instrument’s sound to
suit different music and playing styles.
Its simplicity has made it a popular circuit, remaining relatively
unchanged since the early 20th century. However, it has some weaknesses. These updated circuits aim to
correct some of those shortcomings
and add some handy new features.
Most electric instruments, including
guitars and basses, use passive inductive pickups to sense the vibrations of
the metal strings, converting them into
electrical signals that can be amplified.
Pickups
There are predominantly two types
of electromagnetic pickups used on
guitars and basses. The most common is the ‘single coil’ type, so called
because it is constructed of a single
inductor wrapped around a set of
permanent magnets. The magnets are
made of an iron alloy known as alnico
(aluminium, nickel & cobalt), which
are positioned under the instrument
strings to form ‘pole pieces’.
Wrapped around these magnets
are several thousand turns of enamelled copper wire (see Fig.3). The
pole pieces magnetise the strings,
Fig.1: a typical control
circuit on an electric guitar
or bass. The ‘tone’ control
is an adjustable low pass
filter, while the volume
control is an adjustable
voltage divider.
86
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
producing a changing magnetic field
for the copper coil when plucked.
This movement induces a voltage in
the coil, which is ultimately sent to an
amplifier for playback or recording.
The other type of pickup is called
a “humbucker” because it can cancel
interference and therefore reduce the
hum induced by noisy sources such
as nearby transformers and fluorescent lighting. The humbucker has two
coils mounted next to each other in the
Fig.2: the magnetic field lines
around a typical humbucker pickup.
Source: Lawing Musical Products –
siliconchip.au/link/abw4
siliconchip.com.au
bridge-mounted pickups will sound
brighter with strong mid-range and
treble sounds. The electronic control
circuitry allows the musician to select
these different pickups and control the
final sound.
I have designed four different circuits with custom-shaped PCBs to suit
some of the more common or interesting electric basses and guitars.
J&D Luthiers T-Style electric
bass
Photos 1 & 2:
the outside
surface of the
T-style bass
pickguard has
a nice tinned
pattern. The
labels aren’t
upside-down; at
least, not from
the player’s
perspective!
same package. One coil has its north
magnets facing the strings, while the
other has its south poles facing the
strings (Figs.2 & 3).
The coils are wired 180° out of
phase, so any external interference that
impinges on the pickup will induce an
opposing voltage in each coil that is
therefore cancelled out. Any (wanted)
voltage induced by the strings will be
out-of-phase due to the opposite orientation of the pickup magnets, and
those signals will reinforce due to the
out-of-phase wiring.
Humbuckers are known for their
stronger and fuller sound but tend to
lack clarity and brightness compared
to a single coil. These differing characteristics, as well as pickup placement,
can be used by the instrument designer
to influence its overall voicing.
Pickups placed towards the neck
of the instrument tend to have more
bass and sound more mellow, while
The inspiration for this project came
during the restoration of an old bass
guitar, known as a T-Style, from the
Australian designer J&D Luthiers (see
Photo 1). The existing circuitry was
mounted directly to timber veneer,
which was showing its age and needed
replacement. I routed the veneer off,
leaving a hole in the body to be covered by a new fascia.
The obvious choice for a new material would be custom-machined sheet
metal, but making that is time consuming and quite expensive. Most parts
of this nature are also chrome-coated,
which adds further expense. Instead,
I decided to make a new fascia from
a printed circuit board (PCB), which
could act as both a visually appealing fascia and house the new circuitry
(see Photo 2).
The new circuit is shown in Fig.4
and Photo 3. The instrument features
two pickups: a single coil near the
neck and a humbucker near the bridge.
These wire directly to CON1, a 7-way
screw terminal.
Both coils’ negative ends and the
humbucker shield are grounded,
along with the instrument drain wire.
The drain is electrically connected to
Fig.3: the internal construction of a single coil pickup, an early “PAF” Humbucker with bottom-mounted magnet
and steel pole pieces, and a more modern form of humbucker with alnico magnet pole pieces. Source: https://
lawingmusicalproducts.com/dr-lawings-blog/the-wide-range-humbucker-and-the-genius-of-seth-lover
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 87
Fig.4: my new circuit for the J&D Luthiers T-Style bass allows you to select which pickups are active and the
configuration of the humbucker. It also provides tone, overdrive and volume controls and has compensation so that
the frequency response doesn’t change too much with volume level.
the bridge, to suppress interference
induced on the strings and metal
hardware.
The ‘middle’ of the humbucker
(coil one negative, coil two positive)
connects to switch S1, a DP3T toggle
switch with a slightly unusual on/
on/on switching pattern, as shown
in Fig.5. This provides the option of
series/split/parallel selection for the
humbucker coils.
When in the split position (centre),
one of the coils is grounded, so the
humbucker operates as a single coil,
giving a clear and bright tone. When
in the series position (down), the coils
are in series. This gives the strongest
output and a rich tone but less brightness than a single coil.
When in the parallel position (up),
the coil one negative is grounded and
the coil two positive connects to the
output, placing the coils in parallel.
This gives a tone somewhere between
the other two modes.
The output of the humbucker
switch leads to S2, the bridge/neck
pickup selector switch. In the bottom
position, the neck single coil will be
active; in the top position, the bridge
humbucker will be selected (in whatever mode S1 has it operating in); and,
in the centre position, both pickups
are active.
Switches S1 & S2 provide a lot of
flexibility for the musician, selecting
between a total of seven different configurations for the two pickups.
Photo 3: there’s a fair bit of room inside the T-Style bass guitar body for the
components on the underside of the PCB.
88
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
The signal is then fed to the traditional tone control, made from potentiometer VR1 (connected as a rheostat)
and the four paralleled capacitors.
This configuration forms a low-pass
filter but in a slightly unusual way.
Because the pot is in series with
the capacitor(s), it effectively works
as a magnitude control. With the pot
all the way up, the signal sees a high
impedance and very little of the high
end is shunted.
With the tone all the way down, the
capacitor(s) are connected directly
in parallel with the output, giving a
strong high-frequency roll-off. The
RC combination of the pickup source
impedance and filter capacitance will
loosely set the cutoff frequency. Still,
with no buffering, there is a strong
interaction with the other controls.
Because we prefer to use plastic
film dielectric capacitors for linearity, the range of values available in the
size used (SMD M3216/1206) is only
up to about 1μF. The four footprints
therefore allow for a broader range of
capacitances and for tuning the sound
by connecting smaller capacitors in
parallel with larger ones.
A typical value is 47nF, but I prefer
higher values to scoop out a bit more
of the mid-range, so I use 200-220nF.
In the prototype I built, I used two
100nF film capacitors in parallel, but
I’ve specified a single 220nF in the
parts list for simplicity.
The next control in the signal path
is potentiometer VR2, which is a new
feature: a passive overdrive/distortion
control. It works similarly to the tone
control, except there are back-to-back
(inverse parallel) schottky diodes (D1,
D2) in series with the rheostat.
When the pot is fully down, there
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Fig.5: the unusual switching
patterns of the “on/on/on” and “Les
Paul” DP3T switches used in these
circuits allows the coils to be used
together or individually.
is a high resistance in series with the
diodes, so they have little effect on
the signal.
When the pot is all the way up,
the diodes are connected directly to
the signal line. The voltage from the
pickups is too low to fully forward
bias these diodes, but even operating
in their square law region, they introduce some nonlinearity to produce
a subtle ‘overdrive’, a popular effect
amongst guitarists.
The seasoned musician will note
that the overdrive effect is applied
before the volume control, so its
impact won’t be reduced if the volume
is adjusted. This offers a useful contrast to other distortion sources, such
as downstream foot pedals or amplifiers, which are mellowed by their input
voltage level.
By combining the onboard distortion with downstream effects, the
musician has the flexibility to dial up
or down distortion from a mixture of
sources.
Constructors might like to exper-
iment with different combinations
of diodes here; for instance, a single
schottky diode would give asymmetric distortion, while back-to-back combinations of small signal diodes like
the 1N4148WS would provide a more
mellow effect. You could even have
a combination, with one 1N4148WS
and one schottky diode facing in either
direction.
The final potentiometer, VR3, is
a traditional volume control with a
twist. In a conventional circuit, the
output signal is simply tapped off the
pot’s wiper. But this arrangement has
a drawback: as the volume is turned
down, the pot resistance appears in
series with the output. When connected to an amplifier via a coaxial cable, this resistance forms an
unwanted low-pass filter (with the
cable parasitic capacitance), reducing
upper frequencies.
In this updated circuit, a 1nF capacitor is placed in parallel with the volume control to ‘bleed’ additional treble into the output as the volume is
turned down, compensating for the
undesirable tone loss.
Additional series and parallel footprints R5, C6 and C7 are provided for
other combinations of capacitance or
resistance to do this job. For instance,
100kW || 1nF may sound more linear
as the control is turned down.
The output signal appears at the
output jack, CON, a ¼-inch (6.35mm)
TS socket to suit a standard instrument cable.
The PCB is secured to the front
of the instrument using 3mm stainless steel self-tappers. They mount
through 3mm plated through-holes
and secure directly into the timber.
I prefer plated holes for mechanical
mounting, as they are a bit more hardy
than bare fibreglass against the metal
screw threads.
A standard 1.6mm thickness PCB
with black solder mask is best; any
thinner would be too flimsy, any
thicker would present too much of a
lip. We will be supplying boards with
a lead-free HASL finish (basically tin
plating) as the solder will be on the
outside of the guitar. If a gold finish
would suit your guitar, you could go
for an ENIG finish, although it will
make the board considerably more
expensive.
The Fender Jazz Bass
Many of the features of this T-style
bass circuit can be applied to more
Fig.6: my Jazz Bass circuit is similar to the one for the T-Style bass shown in Fig.4, except the pickup switching is
simpler because both pickups are single-coil types.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 89
Photo 4: a Fender
Jazz electric bass.
Source: www.
megamusiconline.
com.au/product/
fender-americanperformer-jazzbass-guitarrosewoodfretboard-3colour-sunburst/
Photo 5: the unusual ‘Les Paul style’
DPDT switch closes all contacts in its
central position, rather than opening
them all, as in a normal DPDT centreoff switch.
90
Silicon Chip
common instruments. One of the most
popular bass guitars is the Fender Jazz
Bass (Photo 4), which has two single-
coil pickups. Jazz basses have been
played extensively by legends like
Jaco Pastorius, John Paul Jones of Led
Zeppelin, Flea of Red Hot Chili Peppers, Adam Clayton of U2 and Geddy
Lee of Rush.
There are also clones of the Jazz Bass
(and the other guitars listed below)
that would likely fit my new pickguard
designs, possibly with slight modifications to the inside of the body.
Traditionally, the two pickups
would be wired to individual volume control potentiometers with a
shared common tone control. My new
arrangement is shown in Fig.6.
The negative of the second coil
and the bridge shield are connected
directly to circuit ground, similarly to
the T-Style circuit from above. The first
coil’s negative and the second coil’s
positive are routed to S1, a DPDT toggle switch that provides series/individual switching for the two coils.
With S1 in the position shown, S2
allows the player to select either coil
or both in parallel.
Parallel is the standard configuration for a Jazz bass, while series is a
new mode that will give a stronger
and fuller tone. Series switching with two single-coil
pickups is a rare configuration but, in
my opinion, heavily underrated. On a
genuine Fender, it can give the player a
beefier tone that is more akin to a humbucker. It can compensate for low-cost
pickups, which tend to sound thin on
a cheap imitation.
Photo 5 shows how this special ‘Les
Paul style’ switch works; with the toggle in the central position, all contacts
are closed.
Moving it to one side opens the contacts on the opposite side, while leaving the set on the same side closed. In
its standard configuration, that lets
you choose one pickup, the other or
both in parallel.
With S1 in the standard parallel
mode, S2 can select between the neck
pickup only, bridge pickup only, or
both pickups in parallel. With S1 in
the series position, S2 selects between
both in series or mute.
Mute can be helpful for live work, to
avoid unwanted sounds when moving
around on stage between songs, or it
can be rapidly switched on and off to
give a tremolo-style effect.
The signal is then sent to the tone
control potentiometer, VR1. A single
capacitor is used here (220nF recommended), as there is no space for
more footprints. Following this is pot
VR2, the passive overdrive with dual
schottky diodes.
After that is pot VR3, the volume
control with a single
1nF treble
Photos 6 & 7: the outside of the Jazz Bass pickguard has a pleasing zigzag
pattern in tin along with the necessary labels. The other side of the pickguard is
where all the components are mounted.
Australia's electronics magazine
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Fig.7: the Music Man Stingray circuit is virtually identical to the one for the J&D Luthiers T-Style bass, except that
there is no switch S2 as it doesn’t have a neck pickup.
bleed capacitor. Again, there is no
space for additional footprints or
series/parallel combinations as there
was on the T-Style circuit.
The entire PCB fits in place of the
existing chrome-plated controls (visible in Photo 4) and is screwed down
to the body. If your instrument doesn’t
quite fit the new controls (shown in
Photos 6 & 7), additional space can be
made by filing, rasping, or routing out
a larger body cavity.
Music Man Stingray
Another very popular bass guitar,
the Stingray (Photo 8), was designed
by Leo Fender after he sold his interest
in his founding business, the Fender
music instrument company.
Unusually for a Fender design, it
features a humbucker pickup. Legends
who have used this bass include Cliff
Williams of AC/DC and John Deacon
of Queen on tracks like Another One
Bites the Dust.
The standard Stingray was the first
electric instrument to feature active
electronics, with a volume control and
a two-band EQ powered by a 9V battery. Some models add a knob to provide a three-band EQ. Cheaper copies
of the Stingray will come with a similar circuit to the Jazz Bass: two volume control potentiometers for each
of the humbucker coils and a common
tone control.
My replacement circuit is shown in
Fig.7 and Photos 9 & 10. The bridge
shield and humbucker coil two negative are connected to circuit ground.
Like the humbucker wiring in the
T-Style circuit, humbucker coil two
positive and humbucker coil one
negative connect to S1, a DP3T toggle switch with the special on/on/on
switching pattern.
This provides the same series/split/
parallel switching for the humbucker
as the T-Style circuit, with the same
tonal flexibility.
When in split mode, only a single
coil is active. Depending on which
coil the user prefers, this can be the
one closest to the bridge or nearest to
the neck. It can be changed by simply
swapping the wiring of coil 1 with coil
2 in the screw terminal.
As the two pickups are mounted
so close to each other, there is only
a very minor difference in sound
between the two, but the bridge coil
will be marginally ‘brighter’, so I prefer to use it.
The signal from S1 connects with
the humbucker coil one positive and
is sent to the tone control formed by
potentiometer VR1 and up to four paralleled capacitors.
In this example, a single 220nF film
Photo 8: a Music Man Stingray bass with my
new pickguard in place. This guitar
has seen plenty of use!
►
Photos 9 & 10: a close-up of the controls on the Stingray, showing how the
orientation of the labels makes sense for the guitar player. Generally, only
capacitors C1 and C2 are required, as shown here, but the extra pads give you
more options.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 91
Fig.8: while the other three circuits were for bass guitars, this one is for a Fender Telecaster standard electric guitar.
It’s the simplest of the four due to the minimal space available on the guitar, with pickup switching, tone and volume
controls and a simple on/off overdrive option.
cap is loaded. After this is the overdrive control, formed by potentiometer VR2 and inverse-parallel schottky
diodes D1& D2.
The final control is the volume
control, VR3, with the treble bleed
circuitry already described. A single
1nF capacitor (C2) is used in my prototype, but footprints R5, C6, and C7
are also provided to give flexibility to
the builder.
Fender Telecaster
The previous circuits have all been
designed for electric bass guitars but
can also be applied to electric guitars.
The Fender Telecaster (Photo 11) is
one of the oldest and most popular
electric guitars, and its two-pickup
combination can work with a circuit
similar to that of the Jazz Bass. There
are too many famous Telecaster players
to list, including Jimmy Page, Keith
Richards, Bruce Springsteen, George
Harrison and Muddy Waters.
The standard controls on a telecaster
are a three-way pickup selector switch
(neck/bridge/both) and the typical
volume and tone controls. These can
be replaced with the circuit shown in
Fig.8, Photo 12 & Photo 13.
The output jack negative, the second single coil negative and the bridge
shield connect directly to circuit
ground. The negative of the first single coil and the positive of the second
single coil are routed to S1, a DPDT
toggle switch providing series/parallel
switching for the two coils.
The output from S1 is sent to S2,
a three-way bridge/neck selector
switch. With S1 in the standard parallel mode, S2 can select between
the neck pickup only, bridge pickup
only, or both pickups. With S1 in the
series position, S2 selects between on
and mute.
The signal is then sent to the tone
control potentiometer, VR1. Two footprints are provided for capacitors.
After this is the passive overdrive,
which differs from other circuits in
its use of a switch rather than a potentiometer.
Due to space constraints, the dual
schottky diodes are simply switched
in or out of circuit. An SPST or SPDT
toggle switch can be used here. After
that is pot VR3, the volume control,
with a single 1nF treble bleed capacitor.
This circuit does not include a
¼-inch output jack, as the Telecaster
mounts this off-board on the bottom
edge of the body. The output signal
instead connects back to the 7-way
Photos 12 & 13: once your Telecaster pickguard has been assembled and the wires added, it should look like this, ready to
install in the guitar. The pickguard is packed with controls and has a zigzag pattern to add a bit of interest.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Photo 11: a Fender Telecaster electric guitar. Source: www.
keyboardcorner.com.au/fender-player-telecaster-pau-ferrofingerboard-3-color-sunburst/
Parts List – Electric & Bass Guitar Pickguards
screw terminal, where it can connect
to flying leads that wire down to the
output jack.
Construction
All versions can be approached
similarly, referring to the photos
presented so far and the relevant
PCB overlay diagram (one of Figs.912). Begin by mounting the toggle
switch(es) and securing them to the
PCB with the supplied washer and
nut.
I prefer a flush mount; if the toggle stands too proud for your liking,
an additional nut can be placed on
the back of the switch to adjust the
length of shaft that protrudes through
the PCB.
Tin the SMD pads and toggle switch
terminals with solder, then run short
lengths of fine-gauge wire from the
pads to the terminals. The DPDT and
DP3T switches require all six connections, while the SPST/SPDT on the
Telecaster circuit only needs the two
connections as marked.
Continue by mounting the ¼-inch
jack (excluding the Telecaster). Secure
it to the circuit board using the supplied washer and nut, like the toggle switches. Tin the two terminals
and the pads and make connections
with the fine gauge wire. The hot pad
connects to the tip of the instrument
cable, the longest conductor on the
jack. The ground connection is to the
jack’s sleeve.
Now mount the potentiometers.
The Volume and Tone controls are
nominally 500kW audio taper, but
other values can be substituted if the
builder prefers.
siliconchip.com.au
Parts common to all versions
2 500kW logarithmic taper single-gang 16mm spline shaft potentiometers (VR1, VR3)
[Altronics R2237]
1 6.35mm switched SPST mono jack socket (CON2) [Altronics P0062] *
3 16mm aluminium ¼-inch shaft grub screw knobs [Altronics H6331]
2 BAT43W 30V 200mA SMD schottky diodes, SOD-123 (D1, D2) [DigiKey, Mouser etc]
1 220nF 16V metallised plastic film or NP0/C0G ceramic capacitor, M3216/1206 size
[DigiKey ECP-U1C224MA5]
1 1nF 100V metallised plastic film or NP0/C0G ceramic capacitor, M3216/1206 size
[DigiKey ECW-U1102JX5]
1 1m length of black light-duty hookup wire
* omit jack socket and one knob for Telecaster
Fender Jazz Bass specific parts
1 double-sided PCB with black solder mask coded 23109241, 127 × 105.5mm
1 5-way SMD screw terminal, 3.5mm pitch (CON1) [DigiKey 2383942-5]
1 DPDT solder tail mini toggle switch (S1) [Altronics S1345]
1 "Les Paul 3 Way Selector" DP3T switch (S2) [AliExpress 1005001900886767]
1 100kW linear taper single-gang 16mm spline shaft potentiometer (VR2)
[Altronics R2228]
J&D Luthiers T-Style specific parts
1 double-sided PCB with black solder mask coded 23109242, 200.5 × 87.5mm
1 7-way SMD screw terminal, 3.5mm pitch (CON1) [DigiKey 2383942-7]
1 ‘on-on-on’ DPDT miniature toggle switch with solder tags (S1) [Pedal Parts Australia
SWTS0008]
1 "Les Paul 3 Way Selector" DP3T switch (S2) [AliExpress 1005001900886767]
1 100kW linear taper single-gang 16mm spline shaft potentiometer (VR2)
[Altronics R2228]
Music Man Stingray specific parts
1 double-sided PCB with black solder mask coded 23109243, 190 × 71mm
1 5-way SMD screw terminal, 3.5mm pitch (CON1) [DigiKey 2383942-5]
1 ‘on-on-on’ DPDT miniature toggle switch with solder tags (S1) [Pedal Parts Australia
SWTS0008]
1 100kW linear taper single-gang 16mm spline shaft potentiometer (VR2)
[Altronics R2228]
Fender Telecaster specific parts
1 double-sided PCB with black solder mask coded 23109244, 28.5 × 148mm
1 7-way SMD screw terminal, 3.5mm pitch (CON1) [DigiKey 2383942-7]
1 DPDT solder tail mini toggle switch (S1) [Altronics S1345]
1 "Les Paul 3 Way Selector" DP3T switch (S2) [AliExpress 1005001900886767]
1 SPDT solder tail mini toggle switch (S3) [Altronics S1310]
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 93
Fig.9: the replacement
pickguard for the
T-Style bass is relatively
large and easy to assemble.
Connections to the guitar are
made via a 7-way SMD screw
terminal, as through-holes would
mar the appearance of the outer
(visible) side of the PCB.
Fig.10: the Jazz Bass
pickguard is quite a bit
smaller than the T-Style
bass but all the controls still
fit neatly. A 5-way terminal is
used this time because the bass
doesn’t have a humbucker pickup
with its two extra terminals.
For instance, 250kW and 1MW pots
are also commonly used on many
instruments. Generally speaking,
higher values will give a brighter voicing to the instrument but will also
increase the circuit’s output impedance.
The potentiometers are mounted
flush against the PCB, with the provided keyway holding the control
in place to prevent unwanted body
rotation.
The terminals can be bent down
towards the pads on the PCB and soldered with a blob. Begin by applying
94
Silicon Chip
solder to the legs of the pot and wait
for the solder to reflow down onto the
pads for a good connection.
Finish the potentiometers by mounting the brushed aluminium knobs to
the shaft. If the pot shaft is too long,
it can be cut with a hacksaw and filing to give a flush mount. The knobs
secure to the shaft by tightening the
grub screw.
Next, mount the SMD screw terminal. Solder each leg individually in a
similar way to the pot legs; flow solder
onto the legs and wait for it to reflow
onto the pads of the PCB.
Australia's electronics magazine
Finally, the passives can be soldered
to the pads on the circuit board. I used
plastic film caps throughout, as plastic dielectrics are highly linear. Finish
by soldering the schottky diodes with
opposite orientations.
Editor’s note: C0G ceramics are
more linear than many common film
caps, such as polyester types, so they
might give a more neutral sound.
The pickups can now be wired to
the screw terminal, and the entire
assembly mounted to the body of the
instrument with 3mm wood screws.
Happy playing!
SC
siliconchip.com.au
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Fig.11: the Music Man Stingray pickguard can double as a boomerang! It’s pretty large, so all
the controls are nicely spaced out. The single humbucker pickup means that only a five-way
terminal is required for this one.
Fig.12: the Telecaster pickguard is the most compact of
all, so there’s only room for the necessary components.
To save space, the overdrive pot is replaced with a switch.
Raspberry Pi Pico W BackPack
The new Raspberry Pi Pico W provides WiFi functionality, adding
to the long list of features. This easy-to-build device includes a
3.5-inch touchscreen LCD and is programmable in BASIC, C or
MicroPython, making it a good general-purpose controller.
This kit comes with everything needed to build a Pico W BackPack module, including
components for the optional microSD card, IR receiver and stereo audio output.
$85 + Postage ∎ Complete Kit (SC6625)
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/20/6625
The circuit and assembly instructions were published in the January 2023 issue: siliconchip.au/Article/15616
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 95
SERVICEMAN’S LOG
Turning to the dark side
Dave Thompson
Fear leads to anger; anger leads to hate; hate leads to... suffering
broken garden lights?
It is that time of year again. No, not the tech column
awards (I’ve never been invited!). I’m talking about it being
cold, damp, and dark.
Down here in the lower southern hemisphere, we are
somewhat used to the weather bombs that occasionally
circle up from the Antarctic and blanket this part of the
country with bitterly cold winds, snow to low levels and
lashings of ice thrown in to make things especially difficult.
Last year, we were clever and avoided much of this cold
and frosty weather by going to Europe, where there was a
smoking-hot summer. However, that gets quite expensive,
and it takes months of planning, so it is impractical to go
every year just to chase the summer sun.
On the darkest days here, during June, July and August,
even if we have sun, it is barely warm and hangs very low
in the sky. A 40W incandescent bulb would be warmer!
It is pitch dark from 5pm until 8am. If we get a cloudless
night during these months, the mercury drops like Wile
E. Coyote in a Roadrunner cartoon, and we get hard frosts
well into the negative digits.
Usually, when we have an ultra-crispy morning, we have
a reasonably nice day.
It’s a paltry silver
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lining, but it’s better than rain. If it does cloud over during
the night, the temperature can drop to zero, and everything
will be cold, damp and miserable all day long.
This winter, and what remnants of winter we encountered on our return last year, have mostly been about cloud
cover and rain. It seems those halcyon days of clear and
frosty but dry winter days have gone, perhaps due to climate change or perhaps just because weather is notoriously
unpredictable and a pain in the bunions!
It also turns out my workshop is leaking, which makes
working in it a chore and a potential health hazard, as the
carpets are all damp and don’t get the chance to dry out.
To be honest, the whole garage/workshop needs bowling
and rebuilding. Oh, for a spare 60 grand!
Lighting my way
My point, as usual a long time coming, is that with all this
darkness about, outside lighting is really important. Falling
down the front steps would not only be embarrassing but,
at my age, potentially damaging. It is more than essential
that I have decent motion-activated security lighting and,
even better, outside pathway lighting.
Most of the old-style Par-38-style security lights were
mains powered, so one had to wire them in somehow.
They were great, don’t get me wrong. Still, where they are
mounted, under the barge boards, there was not always
handy mains wiring present, so we usually had to get
a friendly sparky to come in and wire the lights in
for us (I am legally obliged to say this).
My current house was once a single-storey bungalow until a previous owner added a second storey
and made it quite large. The problem is that to gain
access to areas where security or flood lighting needs
to be mounted, I’d have to be rake-thin and as agile as a
circus monkey.
These days, sadly, I am neither of those things! I once
used to crawl around wing tanks in airliners, wiring looms
and basically fighting my claustrophobia, but those days
are long gone. I was chosen for that task because I was
small and thin. All I could do these days would be to use
my body to plug a leak!
A few years ago, I decided to install some decent security
lighting on our driveway and along our pathway. The house
is on a back section, down a long shingle drive. The neighbour’s dog does a good job of letting us know if anyone is
walking up our driveway with a typical territorial protection
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Items Covered This Month
• The importance of home maintenance
• A modified Crosley radio
• Distorted and damaged PA speakers
• Repairing the solenoid in a washing machine
• Seismograph coil repair
Dave Thompson runs PC Anytime in Christchurch, NZ.
Website: www.pcanytime.co.nz
Email: dave<at>pcanytime.co.nz
Cartoonist – Louis Decrevel
Website: loueee.com
bark. This, coupled with the scrunch of feet on shingles, is
usually enough to let us know if someone is visiting.
However, in the dark of night, and with my workshop
being just inside the gate at the end of the driveway, this
often isn’t enough to know if someone might be creeping up
there. Strategically placed security lights were the answer.
They worked perfectly for the first few years and, once
set up, operated with no problems at all. I have two solarcharged, battery-powered units now: one on a handy telegraph pole at the end of the driveway where it meets our
yard (a story in and of itself) and one mounted on the corner of the house.
I also have a relatively expensive mains-powered unit
halfway between the two. I chose mains powered one for
this location because I could wire it into my garage without any major hassles. (Or at least, my sparky could!). It is
also dazzlingly bright compared to the other two, no doubt
due to it having access to mains power.
the ladder and climb up to the lights’ locations and have
to work on them!
I know what you are thinking: I should have carried out
preventative maintenance in good weather to ensure they
would work over the whole winter. You’d be correct, though
it might surprise you that I did just that.
When the days were getting shorter and the mercury was
dropping, I went around and cleaned the solar panels (on
those that used them) and cleared away the cobwebs of
the spiders that made their homes in the nooks and crannies of my lights.
I also ensured that the Fresnel lenses on the sensors were
not obscured by the usual guano, spider webs or anything
else that might prevent them from working. While they
looked a tiny bit crazed from a few years in the sun, they
seemed clear enough to allow things to work as expected.
The thermal sensor units are sealed, so there was no way
anything could get into them and obfuscate them. The only
way they could malfunction is electronically within the
electronic gubbins or if the lens was somehow obstructed.
Since the lenses seemed clear, I assumed the problem lay
inside the units.
Time to crack them open
The first thing I did was go up and really clean the solar
panels of the battery-powered lights. Admittedly, they
were a little dirty, but not so much that I thought the lights
would not charge.
Nothing is built to last any more
All these lights feature impressive LED arrays and,
when new, were very satisfactory for their roles. Now, not
so much. Over just a few years, the polycarbonate frontages have crazed (likely due to the ultra-high UV rays we
have beaming down on us here because of the ozone hole
– remember that crisis?). The plastic cases inevitably break
down and fall apart for the same reason.
I guess this is the problem with imported stuff that has
not been made to suit our environment. One could argue
that, as they are inexpensive, we can just replace them
every few years and we can all carry on with our lives, but
in my mind, that isn’t the point. If I spend hours installing and setting up something, I expect it to last more than
mere months.
Perhaps that’s just my naive expectations of how things
should be these days, but if I shell out good money (and
bigger money for a ‘proper’ security light rather than some
cheap rubbish from a big box store), I expect a reasonably
long time.
My parent’s security lights, installed by my dad at their
home, lasted for as long as I can remember. I helped him
change bulbs in the latter years, when he couldn’t, but the
unit itself worked for decades.
So, I have three such lights set up in different positions. As I am writing this, not one of them works. If I go
out at 6pm, I’d really like my lighting to come on so that I
don’t trip over something in the dark. Of course, when it
is freezing and raining and generally nasty weather is outside the window, that is not the ideal time to go and get
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 97
old friends, a bank of 18650 cells. A couple had vented
and made a mess of things, so that was likely why it wasn’t
working. No problem; a battery swap should see it going
for another two years – hopefully – before it completely
falls apart.
The second one, though, had six D-sized cells. Well,
they seemed not quite D-sized. They were odd, and like
much of the innards we find in this stuff, had no information on them at all. They would likely measure 1.3-1.5V
factory fresh; I’m reasonably sure of that. But now not one
measured more than 0.7V. No wonder it wasn’t working.
I know they build these things down to a price, but these
were more top-line than others, so I would have expected
a bit more life from the batteries, at least.
Not very repair-friendly
The solar panel assembly simply plugs into the unit’s
main body with a standard barrel connector, so it is easy
enough to unplug it and measure the juice coming from
it. Even in dim, grey weather, I was still getting a healthy
11V (plus change) from the panel, so obviously that wasn’t
the problem.
I was surprised to see so much output from the smallish
panels, even in low-light conditions. There was not much
else that could be at fault, so it was time to demount the
units, open them up and check the batteries.
Getting them down is the first problem. Weather, especially with the extremes we have here, does weird things
to screws and plastic, so taking all that off was a bit of a
mission. I think I need to invest in better-quality screws!
There’s not much I can do about the plastic breaking
down, but even the cadmium-plated big-box-store superscrews I’d used had corroded and most of them just sheared
off as I was trying to undo them. The ones screwed into
the telegraph pole all broke off at the holes, so perhaps
whatever they treated the pole with to stop it from rotting
had a detrimental effect on the screws; they seemed especially weak.
Once off, I got the units into my workshop. As you can
imagine, they are a little grubby. Birds tend to sit on them
and, well, you know. But at least the units came apart easily once I’d given them a wipe-down on the outside.
Mostly, they are pretty well made. I doubt they are
designed to withstand our summer sun, but the plastics
seem to have stood up well. All the screws holding things
together have little O-rings on them; another nice touch.
The covers have a recessed O-ring as well, I guess just to
keep the worst of the weather out of them.
That’s a question for the techies: is a square seal still an
O-ring? The things we think about!
Once open, I could see that light number one hosts our
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Silicon Chip
The problem I had now was how to replace them. As
usual, they are all spot welded together using nickel links
with perma-soldered connections to the PCB. Finding
replacement batteries shouldn’t be too hard, but finding
them with solderable tags on them is a whole other story.
I have one of those cheap spot-welders purchased from
the usual Chinese sites, but it seems to kill batteries; not the
batteries I’m trying to weld, but the model car/aeroplane-
type battery packs that power it. I’ve had two high-capacity
batteries for it now, and they’re not as cheap as they used
to be (nothing is!). Both failed internally after only a few
uses of this welder.
It must suck a tremendous amount of power out of the
battery, but either the batteries are just poorly made, or the
welder itself has some huge back-EMF that kills the cells or
fries some fuse. I’m not about to pour more money down
the drain buying expensive high-capacity batteries in an
effort to get that working.
There are far better options, but as I don’t do much of
this work, it would end up like the treadmill still taking up
space in my garage – used for a while, then forgotten about
or pulled out once in a blue moon to be utilised.
I did manage to find some 18650 cells with solder lugs;
they’d have to do, and that got light number one back up
and running. Light number two with the bigger batteries
was a little more work. While I could find cells, I couldn’t
find any readily available with solder lugs, so I had to use
my soldering station.
That is not ideal because adding that kind of heat is
detrimental to this type of battery. However, I rubbed the
contacts clean with a diamond file just before I soldered
them and used flux, so the solder flowed well onto the
joints. By spreading out the soldering process, I didn’t
get too much heat into them. That light is now working
again as well.
Light number three, the mains-powered one, the most
expensive and brightest by a wide margin, is 18 months
old now. Obviously, it is out of warranty (darn it), and
while it triggers, it is almost like a camera flash. It will
not lux adjust or stay on. I took it down and opened it
up, but the electronics are potted, and there is nothing to
see there, so for this one, the only option is replacement,
and that bites.
The LED arrays and the rest of it, while very well-built
and durable, are all just junk now because the brain is
dead. While it cost more than the others, it is still not
really worth digging into that much before it becomes one
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
of those jobs that are just too complex to solve rather than
just buying another one. Yet another instance of built-in
obsolescence...
At least I got the other two back up to par (heh) and can
now see where I’m going at five o’clock of an evening. And,
as an added bonus, anyone coming up the driveway will
be flooded with light, which is good for good guys and bad
for bad guys (of which we know there are a few around).
Vintage radios and the modified Crosley set
I have held a ham license for around 65 years. When I
got my license, the exams were only held twice a year, in
February and August. They consisted of a 2½-hour paper
on theory, half an hour on regulations, and the demonstration of 10 words per minute Morse code transmission.
In many cases, the exams were held in the local post
office as the Post Master who oversaw the exams was usually quite proficient in Morse code since telegrams were
sent and received by Morse, and sometimes he had to fill
in for other staff off sick or on holidays.
Naturally, I grew up with all-valve equipment. The first
transistor I purchased was an OC70, a germanium transistor
that cost me nearly half my weekly wage as an apprentice:
4 pounds, 8 shillings and 6 pence, around $9.00.
I have been involved in repairing and modifying a large
number of old valve radios for many years. I lived for each
month when Radio & Hobbies, then Radio, Television &
Hobbies and finally Electronics Australia came out. Many
hours were spent poring over circuits for transmitters,
receivers, amplifiers etc.
I have built up an extensive collection of valves of all
types, as well as capacitors and resistors from the valve era.
I always try to make the repairs look as original as possible.
To that end, I found that I could carefully split old mica
capacitors in half using a small hand-held grinder. I can then
make a pocket inside the shells, insert a modern greencap
or polyester capacitor of the required value inside, then
cement the shell back together.
For the paper capacitors, I cut off the lead on one end and
carefully drill out the insides, replacing it with a modern
one and then closing the end with beeswax. This results
in a very original-looking unit.
Unfortunately, replacement power transformers for valve
radios are becoming very hard to obtain. I have endeavoured to use my metal lathe to wind new windings and
resurrect some, but it becomes impossible unless I know
the turn ratios.
One of my pet hates is the American transformerless
radio chassis. For some reason (probably cost-cutting),
many US-made radios do not have power transformers.
They use valves with the heaters in series, quite often with
17V, 25V, or 50V heaters to make the heater chain add up to
the 110V AC mains. These valves also frequently have low
plate voltages, although some radios use voltage-doubling
circuits to get a higher plate voltage.
These radios are deadly. They rely on the operator inserting the power plug into the GPO the correct way around.
However, because many power leads only have two pins
on the plug, it is very easy to make the chassis live. Most
of these radios don’t have an Earth wire because it would
blow a fuse if plugged in the wrong way around!
siliconchip.com.au
Servicing Stories Wanted
Do you have any good servicing stories that you would like
to share in The Serviceman column in SILICON CHIP? If so,
why not send those stories in to us? It doesn’t matter what
the story is about as long as it’s in some way related to the
electronics or electrical industries, to computers or even to
cars and similar.
We pay for all contributions published but please note that
your material must be original. Send your contribution by
email to: editor<at>siliconchip.com.au
Please be sure to include your full name and address details.
Besides using a variac when servicing these radios, I
always use an isolating transformer to ensure my safety.
There were some really well-made US radios, usually of
the TRF type, before superhet radios became common.
I had a lady bring in a Crosley radio one morning complaining that it had “blown up”. It was a five-valve transformerless superhet with several strange valve numbers
because of the series heater chain. Further questioning
resulted in her telling me that they had owned the radio for
many years and it was a wedding gift from her husband’s
father when they lived in the USA.
It apparently had been “modified” by a radio tech in the
USA before they came to Australia to suit the higher Australian mains power voltage.
I put the radio on the workbench and tried to find the
so-called modification she had claimed was done. Everything looked OK, but further checks showed that most of
the valve heaters were open-circuit.
She said that the radio had worked for years in their old
house, but when they moved into the retirement village,
the power lead was far too long, so her husband cut about
two metres off it and
reinstalled the
plug.
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 99
I must be getting old because it took me fully five minutes to realise that the power lead he had cut was a ‘resistance’ lead that dropped the 230-240V AC in Australia
to the 110-120V AC that’s common in the USA! Unfortunately, the radio was beyond economical repair due to the
high applied voltage.
I am currently working on a timber-cased STC 528 that has
seen better days. It is working again, but it is still very deaf.
Still, it keeps me out of the pub and busy at 80 years of age.
J. A., Narangba, Qld.
hearing was like that caused by a rubbing voice coil in
the woofer. It was slightly gritty, but the speaker was still
capable of going loud. I took the grille off the woofer so I
could push the cone to see if it was rubbing. It felt fine, so
I proceeded to remove the amplifier module.
Probing the woofer output with an oscilloscope while
playing music didn’t immediately reveal anything. The
waveforms looked musical and were swinging nicely in
both directions. However, when I fed in a sinewave, I could
see the waveform wasn’t quite as smooth as the input.
I disconnected the speakers so I didn’t have to listen to
the tone and proceeded to trace the signal through the circuit. The output of the preamp looked fine. From there, it
went into a voltage-controlled op amp used as a limiter
(to protect the speaker drivers). The output of this stage is
where the distortion appeared.
This part of the circuit has only the op amp and four
resistors; the control voltage comes from another op amp
that rectifies the audio signals from both the woofer and the
tweeter. The rectifier stage is fed with different amounts of
signal from each driver so it can limit the signal at different levels, depending on whether the overload is HF or LF.
I could see with the ‘scope that the rectifier stage was
doing what it should.
All this suggested the limiter op amp (BA6110) IC was
faulty, but I didn’t have any on hand, and they are now
obsolete. To prove my theory, I removed the op amp and
linked between its input and output to see what happened.
The result was nice clean audio, just a bit low in level.
Then I remembered I had one of these amp modules in
the ‘graveyard’.
Ten minutes later, I had the BA6110 out of the donor
and into the customer’s amplifier, but the fault was still
there! A closer look at the circuit diagram revealed a 47kW
resistor from the +15V rail to a pin on the BA6110 labelled
“bias”. It measured as an open circuit. A replacement resistor restored proper operation.
Several weeks later, the customer delivered another
identical speaker, this time with no HF output. Some HF
output was apparent when I tested it, but not much. Testing the amplifier module indicated that all was well, so I
removed the horn driver for inspection. This revealed that
the diaphragm had shattered!
The voice coil was intact, but not much was left of the
diaphragm. A new horn driver had it sounding good again.
P. M., Christchurch, New Zealand.
Another tale of two speakers
Simpson washing machine solenoid repair
A customer dropped off a powered PA speaker for repair,
saying it sounded distorted. I played some music through
it, and indeed, it did sound distorted.
Problems like this present a quandary to me, as I am
unsure whether to inspect the amplifier module or to start
with the speaker drivers. Many modern, powered speakers have Class-D amplifiers that can deliver hundreds of
watts. It is not uncommon to see labels on the speaker grille
claiming 2000W, which is usually (!) a peak value.
However, if the RMS value is only a quarter of that, it
will still need very substantial drivers to handle the power.
[I think you can drop a zero to get closer to the RMS power
rating from these inflated figures – Editor]
This particular speaker is an older model with conventional amplifiers and solid drivers. The distortion I was
I refurbished a Simpson Contessa washing machine
about two years ago and wrote it up for the October 2022
Serviceman’s Log (page 80). It had been working well until
recently, when my wife found that it was not spin-drying
the clothes but just bunching them up in one place and
then going out of balance...
I suspected the spin solenoid was at fault. If that was
the case, it could be a problem, as I don’t have any spares
left now, having used several over time for repairs to various washing machines. This particular component has a
higher failure rate than others for some reason.
I started by removing the machine’s lid to access the lid
switch so I could hold it in while I turned the machine on
in the spin cycle. Sure enough, the agitator started turning, and the familiar clunk of the solenoid was not present.
The horn driver from a PA
speaker with a shattered
diaphragm.
The Simpson
washing
machine
solenoid
had one of
its terminals
break off.
100
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
I disconnected the machine and pulled it out so that I
could access the back panel and remove the seven screws
that hold it on. I then turned the machine on its side to
access the spin solenoid underneath it.
One of the terminals had broken off, but the solenoid’s
core was still moving freely, and there was no sign of overheating. That was a good sign, as it meant I could probably repair it.
I removed the two #3 Philips screws holding the solenoid
on and turned the solenoid on the elliptical pin to remove
it from the machine. Next, I got my multimeter and checked
that the wiring was still intact; it was. Another good sign.
I plugged in my 20W soldering iron and, while it was
heating up, got a pair of long-nosed pliers and a scraper
to clean the broken terminal where I would be soldering
it back together.
I tinned both parts of the broken terminal and, holding the
loose piece with the long-nosed pliers, I applied heat and
soldered the piece back onto the solenoid. After cleaning
the terminals, I checked the solenoid again with my multimeter, and it was all good. The repair might not look as
good as new, but it would get the machine working again.
I refitted the solenoid in the machine, reattached the back
panel and stood the machine back up again. I refitted the
lid, grabbed some wet washing, loaded the machine, set it
on the spin cycle and pulled up the timer knob.
The familiar clunk was present and, after the pump ran
for a short time, the machine started spinning and ran for
a few minutes before stopping. I checked the clothes, and
they were as dry as usual, so the machine was back in action.
My wife was happy to have the machine working again,
and the repair cost nothing but a bit of time. These solenoids
are not readily available and cost around $50 or more, so
repairing the old solenoid at no cost was a win. It’s very
handy being able to do our own repairs; it saves a fortune
in call-out fees, and the old Simpson lives on.
B. P., Dundathu, Qld
Seismograph coil repair
My seismograph stopped responding some time ago and
I finally got around to fixing it. The detector coil is 50,000
turns of 0.1mm diameter enamelled wire, about 50mm in
diameter. It had gone open circuit, not at the connections
but internally. Still, it lasted about 40 years!
I remembered the story of a bloke who had an open-
circuit coil in a radio IF stage. He connected a 500V bridge
megger to the ends, wound the crank fairly briskly, and it
reconnected the coil. How? Electrostatic attraction? Punching through a corroded spot? Who knows, but it worked.
The sensing coil carries almost no current, less than
microamps, and is in a strong magnetic field, so how long
would such a repair last? I don’t know, but for some time
now, I’ve been thinking of upgrading the detector to a lightbased one that will also provide a DC resting graph.
The magnetic one only responds to definite movement, whereas the commercial ones respond to very low-
frequency, almost DC movement.
Anyway, after doing that, it is working again, ready to
detect quakes anywhere in the world. It is really that sensitive. I feed its output and that of the electrometer into
two channels of a four-channel data logger connected to a
small notebook PC.
P. L., Tabulam, NSW.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 101
Vintage Radio
Stromberg-Carlson “Air Hostess”
Model 4A19
Stromberg-Carlson
was known as a
high-end radio
producer, but this
was one of their
more inexpensive
models. It had
a pretty bare
circuit, with just
four valves, one IF
transformer and a
very basic volume
control. The volume
control, in particular, was its
Achilles’ heel.
A
fter the Second World War, Stromberg-Carlson sold large numbers
of their full-specification model 5A27,
a medium-size mantel radio. The 5A27
cost £21/10, while the 4A19 radio featured here was priced at 18/7/6 (£sd).
Even though Stromberg-Carlson heralded the Air Hostess as Australia’s
newest and finest radio, they would
have known that the publicity department had overstepped the mark considerably.
The radio is cheaply made. It is adequate for the kitchen, and then only
if it is left tuned to one station. To
be fair, the five-inch (127mm) Rolla
speaker baffled by the case provides
good quality listening.
You will not encounter the likes
of the promotional text for this radio
today, which you can read in the
accompanying advertisement from
The Australian Woman’s Weekly,
June 26, 1948 (see Fig.2). The 4A19
is shown in the large photo on the
right, while the more expensive 5A27
is below it and to the left.
102
Silicon Chip
By Associate Professor Graham Parslow
It may have proved too edgy even
for that time because they changed the
name to Air Queen in 1952. Perhaps
the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II
was an additional factor. Although the
case was offered over several years,
the circuitry inside varied considerably, with the single common factor
of having four valves.
If you encounter one of these radios,
it may be quite different internally
from the one featured here. Whatever
components were in stock seem to
have been adapted to make this series.
In this radio, the only new-at-the-time
miniature valve is the 6AV6 IF amplifier and detector.
Circuit details
The circuit diagram shown here
(Fig.1) has been modified from the
original to reflect what was inside this
radio. The original circuit had a valve
lineup of 6A8, 6AR7, KT61 and 6X5,
reflecting the use of old valve stock.
Unlike the circuit shown in this article, the grid bias to the KT61 output
Australia's electronics magazine
valve was set by a resistor between
Earth and the cathode.
In this radio, the 6V6 cathode is tied
to Earth, and bias is created by a 240W
resistor from the mains transformer
centre tap to Earth.
I measured the 6V6 output beam
tetrode grid bias at -5.9V. That is relatively low, but the HT voltages across
the π filter built around inductor L4
were also rather low at 140V at the
rectifier end and 122V at the output
end. Even so, the volume was more
than adequate, and the set consumed
a modest 24W, including a dial lamp
not shown in the circuit diagram.
Using a choke in the π filter is the
only extravagance in the component
complement. I expected the filtering to
be marginal due to using electrolytic
capacitors of just 8μF each. However,
hum was acceptably low, so there was
no need to add extra capacitance to
the π filter.
This radio was released before the
common use of ferrite rods for antennas, so it has a conventional aerial coil,
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the circuit diagram for the
Model 4A19. As it was during
the post WW2 period, the radio
was manufactured with whatever
components they could find, which
was likely one of the reasons why
the design is so simple. In the
original circuit, the capacitor below
the primary of L2 is listed as “300”
(μF), the correct value should be
300pF.
L1, with a tuned secondary for spanning the medium-wave (MW) broadcast band. A 5pF capacitor between
the aerial coil primary and secondary
boosts signal strength when tuning
higher frequencies.
The EK2 octode mixer valve was
introduced by Philips in 1938 with
a proprietary flat-pin C18 base (also
known as a P-base). The EK2 and EK32
are electrically identical; most manufacturers preferred the conventional
octal base on the EK32.
The EK32 mixer was produced with
and without a metallised coating that
could be grounded to act as a shield;
when present, the shield was usually
painted red. In this radio, the EK32
made by Philips has no shield. The
rubber insulated wire to the EK32 top
cap (grid connection from the tuning
capacitor) was perished, as were other
wires that required replacing.
The Armstrong-configuration local
oscillator using transformer L2 is a
conventional way of introducing the
heterodyne frequency to generate
siliconchip.com.au
the 455kHz intermediate frequency
(IF). The big surprise is finding only
one IF transformer in the set. Before
I acquired the circuit diagram, I was
perplexed as to where to find the second IF coil.
Other models in the same case could
have had two IF transformers. Even
with only one IF stage, the station
selectivity is surprisingly good.
What is not so good is the volume
control, as it is actually an RF gain
control. A 5kW potentiometer sets the
grid bias voltage on the EK32 mixer.
Gain is at maximum when the wiper
of the potentiometer is connected to
Earth. When the potentiometer creates resistance from the EK32 cathode to Earth, that raises the cathode voltage, reducing the effective
grid bias.
That’s because the EK32 grid is
effectively at Earth potential by connection through the aerial coil. The
result is that the volume potentiometer sets the negative bias to the control grid.
Australia's electronics magazine
Photo 1: the Philips EK32 mixer
valve can be seen in the foreground
of this photo. Often this valve has a
metallised coating which acts as a
shield, but there was none present.
September 2024 103
This is not a particularly good way
to achieve volume control. At any particular setting, while tuning through
the broadcast band, strong stations
blast in at a high distortion level, while
weak stations are not audible. If the
radio remains tuned to one station,
that problem goes away.
There is no reflexing of the audio
through the 6AV6 because that would
require a second IF transformer. The
detected output from pin 5 of the 6AV6
is coupled to its grid for audio pre-
amplification.
There is no tone control. However,
the 20nF capacitor from the 6V6 anode
Fig.2: an advertisement for the Stromberg-Carlson Model 4A19 from Women’s
Weekly Saturday June 26th, 1948. Source: https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/
article/47221078
speaker). Initially, I did not notice that
the output valve socket was empty.
However, as you can deduce, my
curiosity was piqued as to how many
things can be wrong with such a radio.
Once I started, there was no going back.
Photo 2, showing the underside
of the chassis, was taken during my
preliminary assessment. I had not
yet replaced the two-core mains lead
in case the radio was unsalvageable.
Several capacitors had been replaced,
indicating that someone had restored
it previously.
As there was no output valve, I connected a signal tracer to the grid pin
of the 6V6 socket. Nothing tuned in.
The 20nF coupling capacitor
between the 6AV6 and 6V6 had been
previously replaced with a polypropylene type that is usually highly
reliable. With little reason to expect
a different result, I connected the signal tracer to the 6AV6 anode. I was
rewarded with a good signal from
stations that tuned across the spectrum by manually turning the tuning
capacitor.
That dud 10nF coupling capacitor hit the bin rather quickly, and my
enthusiasm to continue was unabated.
The enthusiasm even survived testing the speaker transformer primary
by measuring its resistance between
pins 3 and 4 of the 6V6 socket – it was
open circuit.
The speaker transformer was riveted to a bracket on the Rola 5C
speaker. Drilling through the rivets
and removing the transformer allowed
me to confirm the open-circuit primary.
The next step was to clean the chassis by brushing residue off using mineral turpentine and then blowing it
with compressed air. A spray of green
paint on the mains transformer made a
significant visual improvement.
Next, it was time to restore the
stringing to the tuning knob. That initially appeared to be impossibly difficult, but removing the dial backing
sheet revealed that it was really rather
simple, as shown in Photo 4.
The small dial drum has a broad rim
with a single hole that exposes the grub
screw binding the drum to the shaft of
the tuning capacitor. The dial cord is
a single piece with a hook at one end
and a spring at the other. These can
be anchored to the hole in the drum,
and three loops of cord can pass over
the tuning knob shaft.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
104
Silicon Chip
to Earth acts as a top-cut audio filter,
as well as filtering out any remaining
IF signal.
There are circuits from other manufacturers with as few or fewer components, such as the Astor DLP described
by Ian Batty in the October 2016 issue
(siliconchip.au/Article/10333).
Restoration
I nearly put the radio aside after a
first inspection. It had perished rubber wiring, a two-core mains flex to
replace, was very dirty, the tuning
system was broken, and the radio did
not work (complete silence from the
Photo 2 (above): this photo of the underside of the chassis was taken before restoration. Some capacitors had been
replaced by the previous owner(s).
Photo 3 (below): similarly, this photo of the top of the chassis was taken during the early stages of restoration, A few
of the components had been removed to make room for replacements.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 105
Photos 4 & 5: the front of the chassis with the dial cursor backing sheet
removed (above) and the new one in place (below).
When the dial backing was reinstalled, the cursor was easily rotated
to span the tuning range.
An odd thing you may have noticed
in the lead photo is the presence of
wobbly dial calibration lines on this
radio. That is not how it left the factory, as shown by many other photos of
the model. It is also not unique because
I have seen this on other glass dials.
I cannot be certain how station identifiers wander and lines distort, but a
combination of heat and moisture are
likely contributors.
The case was in good condition
and brought to a sparkling sheen with
Meguiar’s Ultimate Liquid Wax featuring pure synthetic polymers. It has a
hefty price tag repaid by the outstanding virtue of leaving no white residue.
Used on cars, it produces a finish that
is good for a year between polishes.
With a new cloth-covered mains cord
and a replacement speaker transformer, the project was complete.
Some background
Photo 6: the completed chassis, with the mains transformer painted green.
You can also see the replacement speaker transformer.
106
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
Stromberg-Carlson Australia was
an autonomous operation and ran its
business largely independently of its
American parent. The Australian company began by importing receivers
from the USA in 1927, and a year later,
started the local manufacture of receivers and most of their components.
In 1936, their production volume
justified the construction of a large
factory at Bourke Road, Alexandria,
NSW. Stromberg-Carlson made receivers and components for themselves, as
well as for brands including Audiola
and Crosley.
The 1930s were boom years for
Stromberg-Carlson radios. In the
war years, between 1939 and 1945,
Stromberg-
C arlson produced telephones and telephone switchboards
for the Australian Army.
Adverts from the 1940s proclaimed,
“... there is nothing finer than a Stromberg Carlson”. Throughout their history, they primarily aimed for the
high end of the market, with exquisite woodwork on many products.
The radios continued to sell well in
moulded plastic cases through the
1950s. The end of the radios was a line
of distinctive portable transistor radios
clad in patterned leather.
Stromberg-Carlson tried to participate in the Australian television market, but they were not competitive and
ceased all manufacturing in 1961. SC
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and we’ll answer your question. Send your email to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
Treadmill motor doesn’t
appear to be a DC type
I have two motors that appear to be
suitable for the 180-230V DC Motor
Speed Controller project in the July &
August 2024 issues (siliconchip.au/
Series/418).
However, upon examining the circuit diagram, I suspect that at the age of
82, it is now beyond my ability to construct it, especially if surface-mount
components are used.
But before going any further, I think
I have found a minor error in the diagram. REG1 and REG2 have been
transposed, which will result in the
low-voltage supplies being wrong.
The motors I have came from a
treadmill that would not work. The
manufacturer’s only solution under
warranty was to replace the motor,
twice. The third time, the treadmill
was replaced and then did work. This
leads me to suspect that the controller
was at fault, not the motors.
The motors are branded 260V DC
8A 2HP RPM 4000. They look very
much like the one pictured in the article. Some time ago, I disassembled
one only to find that it does not have
a wound rotor and fixed magnet stator,
like your motor, but wound stator coils
and a solid magnetic rotor. Therefore,
there are no slip rings to contend with.
Incidentally, there was no indication
that the stator coils were damaged.
Two questions arise. Would this
motor be suitable to use with your
circuit, and will the PCB be available
with the surface-mounted components
assembled to help somebody like me?
I decided to try a bridge rectifier on
the mains, giving about the right DC
voltage across the motor. The circuit
breaker on the switchboard immediately tripped.
Connecting a stationary DC motor
to a voltage source seems much the
same as connecting a dead short. Only
the revolution of the motor generates
a back EMF which balances out that
applied from the source. A comment
on how this problem is overcome with
108
Silicon Chip
your circuit would be appreciated. (R.
G. B., Ararat, Vic)
● Thanks for spotting the regulator
labelling error. The PCB is correct, and
the rail voltages in the circuit were
shown correctly; just the regulator
labels were swapped. We have published an erratum and will fix the circuit diagram in the online version of
the magazine.
Since your motor has a wound stator coil, we suspect that your motor
requires some type of polarity switching to the stator winding(s) to cause
the motor to rotate. In other words, the
stator coil magnetic field would need
to rotate. That couldn’t be achieved
with the Speed Controller we published, as it is designed for motors
with rotor coils that switch magnetic
polarity as it rotates.
We suspect your breaker tripped
because, powering your motor from
rectified mains, there is nothing to
cause a rotating magnetic field so
you are effectively just connecting an
inductor across the mains supply. It
would saturate, drawing a very high
current and thus tripping the breaker.
The original controller probably did
more than just apply DC to the motor.
Our Speed Controller is not overly
difficult to assemble. It uses all large
through-hole parts where possible. The only parts not available in
through-hole packages or where they
would be too large to fit are the 6-pin
TLP5701 opto-coupler and four 3W
shunt resistors. They can be soldered
quite easily using hand tools, flux
paste and a magnifier to check that no
solder bridges have formed.
Replacing incandescent
lamps with LEDs
Hi. Have you ever published an article on replacing old bulbs in equally
old equipment with LEDs? The problem, as I see it, is that the former are
voltage-driven, whereas the latter are
current-driven. Thanks, and keep up
the great work! (D. H., North Gosford,
NSW)
Australia's electronics magazine
● We haven’t published an article
on replacing light bulbs with LEDs.
This is a large topic as it depends on
many variables such as the available
voltage, matching the light output and
operating temperatures. There is also
the question of the colour spectrum
required and the colour rendering
index (CRI).
Typically, LEDs draw much less
power than the bulbs they replace,
and they are operated well below the
maximum specification to ensure long
life. Power LEDs require heatsinking.
They can be driven via a current-
limiting resistance, constant current
source or a combination of regulated
voltage and source resistance. Pulsewidth modulated (PWM) drive can be
used for dimming, as long as the frequency is high enough to avoid noticeable flicker.
A few hiccups with the
Skill Tester 9000
I have worked in electronics and
telecommunications for much of my
77 years and still enjoy your magazine,
but I must admit the more complex
microprocessor-controlled projects
are getting a bit beyond my old brain.
I have really enjoyed making the
more basic component-level projects
you have recently published, especially the Skill Tester 9000 (April &
May 2024; siliconchip.au/Series/414).
However, I have found three problems.
1. In the May 2024 issue (pp82-83),
the Siren and Tick Section installation
and test, there appears to be no mention of installing the sound IC (IC11)
and components. It was fairly obvious
(even to me) that it was a requirement.
2. I could not make both songs play
together in the Win Song and Lose
Song Sections on the same pages. If I
lifted one end of diodes D18 and D21,
each song would play OK when one
diode at a time was connected. This
did not affect the overall operation of
the complete system.
3. The output level of the Win/Lose
siliconchip.com.au
songs was very low, maybe due to my
poor hearing! I reduced the 100kW
resistor in the voltage divider at the
input to IC11 to 33kW and the volume
seemed more suitable.
Please continue to develop and publish similar projects in the future; you
have reignited my interest in hobby
electronics. Thank you for your excellent work. (D. C., Beachmere, Qld)
● Phil Prosser responds: First,
thanks for reading the Skill Tester article and building it. It definitely provides some soldering therapy, which
I really enjoy from time to time.
You are right; you need to fit the
amplifier, IC11, to make sound come
out. It was one of those cases where
you get so close to something, such
as building the board, that you can
miss something right before you. I
even went to the trouble of building
an extra board just to write that section of the article!
On playing the win and lose songs
at the same time, the way the sound
works is not ‘analog’, so the sounds
do not mix. The logic interferes, and
you get messy noise instead of the two
songs. The wording in the article might
have been clearer on that point.
It might have been better to write
that you won’t hear much in this situation. As the designer, I was kind of
expecting that, so I was not phased by
it. A more casual builder might wonder where all the sounds went.
It is strange that you needed to
change that resistor. The prototype
unit in the photographs ended up at
work in the coffee area, where people generally turned it on once before
the noise had the whole floor staring
at them. Other than that 100kW resistor, the only other component we can
see that’s likely to affect the volume
so much is the 1kW resistor also connected to pin 3 of IC11.
I hope you found the project fun.
As you are no doubt aware, the design
could have been little more than a PIC
microcontroller, and all the young
engineers at work probably think I am
bonkers taking the approach I did. But
there is a lot to be said for good old
discrete circuitry.
30V 2A Bench Supply
troubleshooting
I am at the testing stage of my Bench
Supply (September & October 2023;
siliconchip.au/Series/403) and I am
having a bit of a problem.
I set the dials and VR6 as specified and switched it on but got no
display unless I turn VR1 clockwise.
It shows 0A and around 0.5V, then
smoke comes out of the 100W resistor
to the right of the 2200μF capacitor. I
replaced it, checked over everything
the best I could and, well, got more
smoke.
I am new to this, but I took it slow
and triple-checked everything (I know
that doesn’t mean I got it right). I just
hope I haven’t burnt something else
out. I know it’s hard to tell over an
email, but I’d appreciate it if you could
help in some way. The red stripe on
the ribbon cable is backwards but pin
1 is correct; I learned about the little
mark on the connector. Anyway, I hope
this makes some sort of sense. (B. P.,
Scottsdale, Tas)
● Please check the voltages around
the circuit. With VR1 fully off
(anti-clockwise), check for 21V at
TP21V and verify that the meter is supplied with +21V. If those are correct,
check the other test point voltages. We
suspect there is a wiring error to the
meter if it only shows digits after VR1
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siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 109
is rotated. It should show 0V when
VR1 is fully anti-clockwise.
Check the wiring required from the
information supplied with the meter.
The wire colours for your meter differ
from those on the unit we used. The
thinner red and black wires are the
meter power supply, while the thicker
red, black and yellow (or white on your
meter) wires are the voltage and current sense wires.
We note that the wiring to CON5
appears to have the supply (VS+) and
MV+ wires transposed, plus the MIon the meter wiring is transposed with
the ‘NC’ wire on CON5. That could
explain why the meter is not showing correctly.
There must be a serious short for the
100W resistor to burn. That is because
that resistor is only used to limit the
charging/discharging current for the
47μF capacitor at the collector of Q4,
which is charged via a 100kW resistor.
So, negligible power is usually dissipated in that resistor. Perhaps there
is a bent-over resistor pigtail shorting
somewhere under the PCB.
Apart from the meter wiring, your
construction appears to be very good
overall, and the photo supplied shows
no other problems.
Finally, note that the little arrows
that indicate pin 1 on the IDC connectors will only be correct if the cable is
routed consistently through them. It
doesn’t matter if the red wire corresponds with pin 1 or is on the opposite side, as long as it is the same for
all connectors. If the red wire goes to
pin 1 on some and not others, your
supply will have crossed wires.
Capacitor discharger &
kitchen timer wanted
Has Silicon Chip ever published a
project or circuit on a capacitor discharger? Also, have you ever designed
a kitchen timer that will go up to 60
minutes? I have looked online but cannot find one.
Finally, I would like to build a
high-voltage DC supply for charging
capacitors. It would need to deliver
about 10-150V DC at 2-3mA. What
would be the safest way to do that?
Could the Electrolytic Capacitor
Reformer (August 2010; siliconchip.
au/Series/10) be modified to do it? (R.
M., Melville, WA)
● We haven’t published a capacitor
discharger yet but will have one later
110
Silicon Chip
this year. You can use a power resistor
to do this job as long as you are careful not to exceed its ratings; the ideal
value will depend on what voltage the
capacitor is charged up to (or expected
to be charged to). The project we will
present is a universal solution that will
discharge most capacitors rated up to
400V reasonably quickly.
As for the timer, we’ve published
a few that could be used in that role.
For a start, the Remote-Controlled Digital Up/Down Timer (August 2010;
siliconchip.au/Article/240) was
designed with that sort of job in
mind and can count from one second
to 100 hours.
Then there are two ‘egg timers’, the
Really Snazzy Egg Timer (November
1990; siliconchip.au/Article/6606)
by Darren Yates and the Egg Timer by
Geoff Nicholls (June 2007; siliconchip.
au/Article/2253).
For the November 1990 version, the
100nF capacitor at pins 1 and 2 of IC1
sets the period. For the June 2007 circuit, the 100nF capacitor at the pin
9 output (OSC OUT) sets the timeout, although it is adjustable within
a restricted range using trimpot VR1.
A 2.2μF capacitor should typically
provide the 60 minutes you want for
either timer. If using an electrolytic
capacitor, use a non-polarised (NP)
type for the June 2007 version.
Yes, the Capacitor Reformer would
be suitable for your needs without
modification. It provides an output
between 10V and 630V in 11 steps. The
supply current is adjustable between
0-20mA.
Programming PIC32s
with a PICkit 3
I am trying to program a PIC32MX170F256B microcontroller.
MPLAB v5.2 recognises my PICkit 3
programmer but will not connect to the
chip. Any MPLAB version higher than
5.2 does not find the PICkit 3.
PICkit3.1 finds and will communicate with the programmer, but the
device list does not include the PIC32MX170F250B. It would seem that
the PICkit 3 is no longer valid, but I
do not want to have to buy a PICkit
4. Can the Microbridge do the job? If
not, what programming kit options
can you offer that will program most,
if not all, PIC devices? (I. T., Blacktown, NSW)
● We tried this ourselves using a
Australia's electronics magazine
PICkit 3 and MPLAB IPE v6.15 (that
comes with MPLAB X IDE v6.15). We
got it to connect to and read the flash
memory of a PIC32MX170F256B.
We recall that version 5.20 or thereabouts was when Microchip switched
to modular support for devices (the
Device Family Packs and Tool Packs),
so support might not be automatically
included for all devices and tools.
If you go to the Tools → Packs
menu in MPLAB X IDE, you will see
a window to download the add-ons.
Check that you have the packs for the
PIC32MX family (under Device Family
Packs) and the Tool Packs, too.
Under the Debug menu in MPLAB
X IDE, there is an option to run a programmer self-test; that might also be
helpful.
Assuming your programmer and
chip are both fully functional, perhaps updating to the latest version of
the IPE (or at least a fairly recent one)
will fix your problem.
The Microbridge (May 2017 issue;
siliconchip.au/Article/10648) can program some PIC32s, including the one
you are trying to program. The kit costs
$20+P&P (minus $2 for active subscribers). So you could try that if you
strike out with the PICkit 3.
Can the 20W Class-A
amplifier still be built?
I am interested in building the
20W Stereo Class-A Amplifier
(May-September 2007; siliconchip.
au/Series/58), but it was published
nearly 20 years ago, so no kits are
available any more. Without the case
coming pre-punched, it might be hard
for me to build; I am not good at metalwork. I assume that all the parts are
still available, though.
If I were to build it from scratch,
I would probably make two monoblocks without preamps. Is a new version likely to be published in the near
future? (D. M., Hughesdale, Vic)
● You should be able to obtain the
parts; we can supply the PCBs (see
siliconchip.au/Shop/?article=2249).
Note that Altronics still have the kit for
the December 2004 version of the 20W
Class-A amplifier module (Cat K5116).
We have improved our Ultra-LD
amplifiers to the point that they outperform the Class-A amplifiers while
providing a lot more power and much
higher efficiency, so it is unlikely we
continued on page 112
siliconchip.com.au
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WARNING!
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should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be carried
out according to the instructions in the articles.
When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with mains AC
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siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 111
Advertising Index
Altronics..................... 13-14, 27-28
Blackmagic Design....................... 7
Dave Thompson........................ 111
DigiKey Electronics....................... 3
Emona Instruments.................. IBC
Hare & Forbes............................. 11
Jaycar............................. IFC, 41-44
Jim Rowe Test Gear Sale......... 111
Keith Rippon Kit Assembly....... 111
LD Electronics........................... 111
LEDsales................................... 111
Melbourne Society of Model &
Experimental Engineers..........OBC
Microchip Technology.................. 9
Mouser Electronics....................... 4
PCBWay....................................... 65
PMD Way................................... 111
Product Showcase..................... 12
SC Pico W BackPack.................. 95
SC Programming Adaptor.......... 85
Silicon Chip Back Issues..... 81, 89
Silicon Chip Binders.................. 64
Silicon Chip GPS Clock........... 109
Silicon Chip PDFs on USB......... 70
Silicon Chip Shop.................... 107
Silicon Chip Subscriptions........ 15
The Loudspeaker Kit.com............ 8
Wagner Electronics................... 101
Notes and Errata
180-230V DC Motor Speed
Controller, July-August 2024: in
the parts list (July issue, pages 76
& 77), the Altronics part codes for
T1 are correct but the transformer
is a 12V + 12V type, not 15V + 15V.
Also, element14 no longer sells
the RURG3060 (D1). You can get
the new version, RURG3060-F085,
from DigiKey or Mouser.
Next Issue: the October 2024 issue
is due on sale in newsagents by
Thursday, September 26th. Expect
postal delivery of subscription
copies in Australia between
September 24th and October 14th.
112
Silicon Chip
will present another Class-A amplifier again.
For example, compare the performance of the Ultra-LD Mk.4 (August
2015, p37) to the 20W Class-A amplifier (May 2007, p36). You will see that
the Ultra-LD’s distortion level is lower
at 100W than the Class-A amplifier
at 20W!
Calculating guitar
pickup inductance
I am wondering if you can help me
find out how to calculate the inductance of electric guitar pickups. I have
been looking online, but most of the
information is written by guitar people and is more like alchemy than
electronics.
What I do know is that the inductance of a guitar pickup is related to
the shape of the windings. A pickup
can have thousands of turns of wire,
usually 42-43 AWG. The resistance
usually ranges from about 3kW up to
as high as 12kW. In a nutshell, this
usually translates into ‘hotness’ or the
amount of output.
The reactance is affected by the
shape of the coil; short and fat coils
sound different to tall and thin ones.
This translates to the ‘tone’ of the
pickup, or the frequency response.
If I know how many turns are in
the coil and the resistance, and I can
measure the height, width and length
of the coil, can I calculate the inductance and determine what does it do
to the frequency response or ‘tone’?
Also, does the actual distance from
the pickup to the strings makes a difference? What effect do things like the
bobbin material, presence of a metal
cover over the pickup or pickups with
two coils with opposite windings
(called a humbucker) have? How do
I measure the shape of the magnetic
field of the pickup? What will paraffin
or beeswax potting of the pickup do to
any of these measurements?
The only information I can find on
this is usually very light on detail and
explanation. The only other stuff I can
find is so technical that I need a Nobel
Prize to decipher it. What I need is a
good source that aims at us mere mortals with a little electronics education
at about intermediate level. I also want
some equations or a method to calculate this stuff. (A. P., Wodonga, Vic)
● We put this to Brandon Speedie,
as he has an article on modifying
Australia's electronics magazine
electric guitars in this issue, and he
responded as follows:
Calculating the inductance of a guitar pickup using geometric methods
is difficult to do accurately. The common inductance equation L = N2 ÷ R
(and its derivatives) will get you in the
ballpark, but it is difficult to know permeability with any certainty, and (as
you say) shapes and sizes differ widely
between types.
A better way is to simply measure
with an LCR meter. Silicon Chip has
published many L meters in the past,
but I’m unsure if any would read up to
10H. Commercial LCR meters that can
do many 100s of henries are available
for less than $200.
Given that most guitarists don’t have
an LCR meter, despite its pitfalls, DC
resistance has become a popular way
to compare pickups. It is broadly true
that a pickup with more turns of (the
same gauge) wire will have higher
resistance (and inductance), and thus
will be ‘hotter’, ie, have a higher output level. This is most relevant when
fitting a guitar with multiple pickups.
A common mistake I see is to load a
guitar with a ‘hot’ bridge pickup, reasoning that it will be more suitable for
solos, while the neck pickup will be
used for rhythm work. But when both
pickups are active, the bridge pickup
will swamp the neck, providing less
versatility from the instrument. Therefore, the DC resistance of the pickups
is usually kept broadly similar across
the instrument.
Having said that, inductance is
much more important to overall ‘tone’
than DC resistance. The pickup itself
acts as an LC circuit, where the pickup
inductance and parasitic capacitance
form a resonant circuit. The peak frequency, and its Q, are the largest drivers of ‘tone’.
To give some examples, a Stratocaster single-coil might measure 2.2H
and have around 600pF of capacitance,
which gives a peak a bit above 4kHz.
By comparison, a Les Paul humbucker
might measure 6.6H, which gives a
peak closer to 3kHz with the same
parasitic capacitance.
You might be interested to read my
article in this issue (starting on page
86) on replacing the onboard electronics on many common electric guitars and basses. There is some more
information in that article on pickup
types and their operation, which you
may find interesting.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
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