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Project by Brandon Speedie
upgrade your instrument with these
Electric & Bass Guitar
Pickguards
The control circuitry on electric basses has remained remarkably simple since
Leo Fender first introduced the instrument over 70 years ago. These modern
PCBs offer more advanced features and a cool aesthetic. They suit many popular
models of electric bass as well as the Fender Telecaster electric guitar.
Image source: https://unsplash.com/photos/teal-and-brown-electric-guitar-phS37wg8cQg
M
ost electric guitars and
basses have circuitry built
into the instrument’s body.
Typically, it includes a passive network of potentiometers and capacitors
to give the musician control of output
volume and ‘tone’. The standard configuration is shown in Fig.1.
The volume control is a potentiometer that divides the audio signal voltage from the pickup(s). The tone control is an adjustable low-pass filter to
reduce the amount of treble and therefore change the instrument’s sound to
suit different music and playing styles.
Its simplicity has made it a popular circuit, remaining relatively
unchanged since the early 20th century. However, it has some weaknesses. These updated circuits aim to
correct some of those shortcomings
and add some handy new features.
Most electric instruments, including
guitars and basses, use passive inductive pickups to sense the vibrations of
the metal strings, converting them into
electrical signals that can be amplified.
Pickups
There are predominantly two types
of electromagnetic pickups used on
guitars and basses. The most common is the ‘single coil’ type, so called
because it is constructed of a single
inductor wrapped around a set of
permanent magnets. The magnets are
made of an iron alloy known as alnico
(aluminium, nickel & cobalt), which
are positioned under the instrument
strings to form ‘pole pieces’.
Wrapped around these magnets
are several thousand turns of enamelled copper wire (see Fig.3). The
pole pieces magnetise the strings,
Fig.1: a typical control
circuit on an electric guitar
or bass. The ‘tone’ control
is an adjustable low pass
filter, while the volume
control is an adjustable
voltage divider.
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Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
producing a changing magnetic field
for the copper coil when plucked.
This movement induces a voltage in
the coil, which is ultimately sent to an
amplifier for playback or recording.
The other type of pickup is called
a “humbucker” because it can cancel
interference and therefore reduce the
hum induced by noisy sources such
as nearby transformers and fluorescent lighting. The humbucker has two
coils mounted next to each other in the
Fig.2: the magnetic field lines
around a typical humbucker pickup.
Source: Lawing Musical Products –
siliconchip.au/link/abw4
siliconchip.com.au
bridge-mounted pickups will sound
brighter with strong mid-range and
treble sounds. The electronic control
circuitry allows the musician to select
these different pickups and control the
final sound.
I have designed four different circuits with custom-shaped PCBs to suit
some of the more common or interesting electric basses and guitars.
J&D Luthiers T-Style electric
bass
Photos 1 & 2:
the outside
surface of the
T-style bass
pickguard has
a nice tinned
pattern. The
labels aren’t
upside-down; at
least, not from
the player’s
perspective!
same package. One coil has its north
magnets facing the strings, while the
other has its south poles facing the
strings (Figs.2 & 3).
The coils are wired 180° out of
phase, so any external interference that
impinges on the pickup will induce an
opposing voltage in each coil that is
therefore cancelled out. Any (wanted)
voltage induced by the strings will be
out-of-phase due to the opposite orientation of the pickup magnets, and
those signals will reinforce due to the
out-of-phase wiring.
Humbuckers are known for their
stronger and fuller sound but tend to
lack clarity and brightness compared
to a single coil. These differing characteristics, as well as pickup placement,
can be used by the instrument designer
to influence its overall voicing.
Pickups placed towards the neck
of the instrument tend to have more
bass and sound more mellow, while
The inspiration for this project came
during the restoration of an old bass
guitar, known as a T-Style, from the
Australian designer J&D Luthiers (see
Photo 1). The existing circuitry was
mounted directly to timber veneer,
which was showing its age and needed
replacement. I routed the veneer off,
leaving a hole in the body to be covered by a new fascia.
The obvious choice for a new material would be custom-machined sheet
metal, but making that is time consuming and quite expensive. Most parts
of this nature are also chrome-coated,
which adds further expense. Instead,
I decided to make a new fascia from
a printed circuit board (PCB), which
could act as both a visually appealing fascia and house the new circuitry
(see Photo 2).
The new circuit is shown in Fig.4
and Photo 3. The instrument features
two pickups: a single coil near the
neck and a humbucker near the bridge.
These wire directly to CON1, a 7-way
screw terminal.
Both coils’ negative ends and the
humbucker shield are grounded,
along with the instrument drain wire.
The drain is electrically connected to
Fig.3: the internal construction of a single coil pickup, an early “PAF” Humbucker with bottom-mounted magnet
and steel pole pieces, and a more modern form of humbucker with alnico magnet pole pieces. Source: https://
lawingmusicalproducts.com/dr-lawings-blog/the-wide-range-humbucker-and-the-genius-of-seth-lover
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 87
Fig.4: my new circuit for the J&D Luthiers T-Style bass allows you to select which pickups are active and the
configuration of the humbucker. It also provides tone, overdrive and volume controls and has compensation so that
the frequency response doesn’t change too much with volume level.
the bridge, to suppress interference
induced on the strings and metal
hardware.
The ‘middle’ of the humbucker
(coil one negative, coil two positive)
connects to switch S1, a DP3T toggle
switch with a slightly unusual on/
on/on switching pattern, as shown
in Fig.5. This provides the option of
series/split/parallel selection for the
humbucker coils.
When in the split position (centre),
one of the coils is grounded, so the
humbucker operates as a single coil,
giving a clear and bright tone. When
in the series position (down), the coils
are in series. This gives the strongest
output and a rich tone but less brightness than a single coil.
When in the parallel position (up),
the coil one negative is grounded and
the coil two positive connects to the
output, placing the coils in parallel.
This gives a tone somewhere between
the other two modes.
The output of the humbucker
switch leads to S2, the bridge/neck
pickup selector switch. In the bottom
position, the neck single coil will be
active; in the top position, the bridge
humbucker will be selected (in whatever mode S1 has it operating in); and,
in the centre position, both pickups
are active.
Switches S1 & S2 provide a lot of
flexibility for the musician, selecting
between a total of seven different configurations for the two pickups.
Photo 3: there’s a fair bit of room inside the T-Style bass guitar body for the
components on the underside of the PCB.
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Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
The signal is then fed to the traditional tone control, made from potentiometer VR1 (connected as a rheostat)
and the four paralleled capacitors.
This configuration forms a low-pass
filter but in a slightly unusual way.
Because the pot is in series with
the capacitor(s), it effectively works
as a magnitude control. With the pot
all the way up, the signal sees a high
impedance and very little of the high
end is shunted.
With the tone all the way down, the
capacitor(s) are connected directly
in parallel with the output, giving a
strong high-frequency roll-off. The
RC combination of the pickup source
impedance and filter capacitance will
loosely set the cutoff frequency. Still,
with no buffering, there is a strong
interaction with the other controls.
Because we prefer to use plastic
film dielectric capacitors for linearity, the range of values available in the
size used (SMD M3216/1206) is only
up to about 1μF. The four footprints
therefore allow for a broader range of
capacitances and for tuning the sound
by connecting smaller capacitors in
parallel with larger ones.
A typical value is 47nF, but I prefer
higher values to scoop out a bit more
of the mid-range, so I use 200-220nF.
In the prototype I built, I used two
100nF film capacitors in parallel, but
I’ve specified a single 220nF in the
parts list for simplicity.
The next control in the signal path
is potentiometer VR2, which is a new
feature: a passive overdrive/distortion
control. It works similarly to the tone
control, except there are back-to-back
(inverse parallel) schottky diodes (D1,
D2) in series with the rheostat.
When the pot is fully down, there
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Fig.5: the unusual switching
patterns of the “on/on/on” and “Les
Paul” DP3T switches used in these
circuits allows the coils to be used
together or individually.
is a high resistance in series with the
diodes, so they have little effect on
the signal.
When the pot is all the way up,
the diodes are connected directly to
the signal line. The voltage from the
pickups is too low to fully forward
bias these diodes, but even operating
in their square law region, they introduce some nonlinearity to produce
a subtle ‘overdrive’, a popular effect
amongst guitarists.
The seasoned musician will note
that the overdrive effect is applied
before the volume control, so its
impact won’t be reduced if the volume
is adjusted. This offers a useful contrast to other distortion sources, such
as downstream foot pedals or amplifiers, which are mellowed by their input
voltage level.
By combining the onboard distortion with downstream effects, the
musician has the flexibility to dial up
or down distortion from a mixture of
sources.
Constructors might like to exper-
iment with different combinations
of diodes here; for instance, a single
schottky diode would give asymmetric distortion, while back-to-back combinations of small signal diodes like
the 1N4148WS would provide a more
mellow effect. You could even have
a combination, with one 1N4148WS
and one schottky diode facing in either
direction.
The final potentiometer, VR3, is
a traditional volume control with a
twist. In a conventional circuit, the
output signal is simply tapped off the
pot’s wiper. But this arrangement has
a drawback: as the volume is turned
down, the pot resistance appears in
series with the output. When connected to an amplifier via a coaxial cable, this resistance forms an
unwanted low-pass filter (with the
cable parasitic capacitance), reducing
upper frequencies.
In this updated circuit, a 1nF capacitor is placed in parallel with the volume control to ‘bleed’ additional treble into the output as the volume is
turned down, compensating for the
undesirable tone loss.
Additional series and parallel footprints R5, C6 and C7 are provided for
other combinations of capacitance or
resistance to do this job. For instance,
100kW || 1nF may sound more linear
as the control is turned down.
The output signal appears at the
output jack, CON, a ¼-inch (6.35mm)
TS socket to suit a standard instrument cable.
The PCB is secured to the front
of the instrument using 3mm stainless steel self-tappers. They mount
through 3mm plated through-holes
and secure directly into the timber.
I prefer plated holes for mechanical
mounting, as they are a bit more hardy
than bare fibreglass against the metal
screw threads.
A standard 1.6mm thickness PCB
with black solder mask is best; any
thinner would be too flimsy, any
thicker would present too much of a
lip. We will be supplying boards with
a lead-free HASL finish (basically tin
plating) as the solder will be on the
outside of the guitar. If a gold finish
would suit your guitar, you could go
for an ENIG finish, although it will
make the board considerably more
expensive.
The Fender Jazz Bass
Many of the features of this T-style
bass circuit can be applied to more
Fig.6: my Jazz Bass circuit is similar to the one for the T-Style bass shown in Fig.4, except the pickup switching is
simpler because both pickups are single-coil types.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 89
Photo 4: a Fender
Jazz electric bass.
Source: www.
megamusiconline.
com.au/product/
fender-americanperformer-jazzbass-guitarrosewoodfretboard-3colour-sunburst/
Photo 5: the unusual ‘Les Paul style’
DPDT switch closes all contacts in its
central position, rather than opening
them all, as in a normal DPDT centreoff switch.
90
Silicon Chip
common instruments. One of the most
popular bass guitars is the Fender Jazz
Bass (Photo 4), which has two single-
coil pickups. Jazz basses have been
played extensively by legends like
Jaco Pastorius, John Paul Jones of Led
Zeppelin, Flea of Red Hot Chili Peppers, Adam Clayton of U2 and Geddy
Lee of Rush.
There are also clones of the Jazz Bass
(and the other guitars listed below)
that would likely fit my new pickguard
designs, possibly with slight modifications to the inside of the body.
Traditionally, the two pickups
would be wired to individual volume control potentiometers with a
shared common tone control. My new
arrangement is shown in Fig.6.
The negative of the second coil
and the bridge shield are connected
directly to circuit ground, similarly to
the T-Style circuit from above. The first
coil’s negative and the second coil’s
positive are routed to S1, a DPDT toggle switch that provides series/individual switching for the two coils.
With S1 in the position shown, S2
allows the player to select either coil
or both in parallel.
Parallel is the standard configuration for a Jazz bass, while series is a
new mode that will give a stronger
and fuller tone. Series switching with two single-coil
pickups is a rare configuration but, in
my opinion, heavily underrated. On a
genuine Fender, it can give the player a
beefier tone that is more akin to a humbucker. It can compensate for low-cost
pickups, which tend to sound thin on
a cheap imitation.
Photo 5 shows how this special ‘Les
Paul style’ switch works; with the toggle in the central position, all contacts
are closed.
Moving it to one side opens the contacts on the opposite side, while leaving the set on the same side closed. In
its standard configuration, that lets
you choose one pickup, the other or
both in parallel.
With S1 in the standard parallel
mode, S2 can select between the neck
pickup only, bridge pickup only, or
both pickups in parallel. With S1 in
the series position, S2 selects between
both in series or mute.
Mute can be helpful for live work, to
avoid unwanted sounds when moving
around on stage between songs, or it
can be rapidly switched on and off to
give a tremolo-style effect.
The signal is then sent to the tone
control potentiometer, VR1. A single
capacitor is used here (220nF recommended), as there is no space for
more footprints. Following this is pot
VR2, the passive overdrive with dual
schottky diodes.
After that is pot VR3, the volume
control with a single
1nF treble
Photos 6 & 7: the outside of the Jazz Bass pickguard has a pleasing zigzag
pattern in tin along with the necessary labels. The other side of the pickguard is
where all the components are mounted.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.7: the Music Man Stingray circuit is virtually identical to the one for the J&D Luthiers T-Style bass, except that
there is no switch S2 as it doesn’t have a neck pickup.
bleed capacitor. Again, there is no
space for additional footprints or
series/parallel combinations as there
was on the T-Style circuit.
The entire PCB fits in place of the
existing chrome-plated controls (visible in Photo 4) and is screwed down
to the body. If your instrument doesn’t
quite fit the new controls (shown in
Photos 6 & 7), additional space can be
made by filing, rasping, or routing out
a larger body cavity.
Music Man Stingray
Another very popular bass guitar,
the Stingray (Photo 8), was designed
by Leo Fender after he sold his interest
in his founding business, the Fender
music instrument company.
Unusually for a Fender design, it
features a humbucker pickup. Legends
who have used this bass include Cliff
Williams of AC/DC and John Deacon
of Queen on tracks like Another One
Bites the Dust.
The standard Stingray was the first
electric instrument to feature active
electronics, with a volume control and
a two-band EQ powered by a 9V battery. Some models add a knob to provide a three-band EQ. Cheaper copies
of the Stingray will come with a similar circuit to the Jazz Bass: two volume control potentiometers for each
of the humbucker coils and a common
tone control.
My replacement circuit is shown in
Fig.7 and Photos 9 & 10. The bridge
shield and humbucker coil two negative are connected to circuit ground.
Like the humbucker wiring in the
T-Style circuit, humbucker coil two
positive and humbucker coil one
negative connect to S1, a DP3T toggle switch with the special on/on/on
switching pattern.
This provides the same series/split/
parallel switching for the humbucker
as the T-Style circuit, with the same
tonal flexibility.
When in split mode, only a single
coil is active. Depending on which
coil the user prefers, this can be the
one closest to the bridge or nearest to
the neck. It can be changed by simply
swapping the wiring of coil 1 with coil
2 in the screw terminal.
As the two pickups are mounted
so close to each other, there is only
a very minor difference in sound
between the two, but the bridge coil
will be marginally ‘brighter’, so I prefer to use it.
The signal from S1 connects with
the humbucker coil one positive and
is sent to the tone control formed by
potentiometer VR1 and up to four paralleled capacitors.
In this example, a single 220nF film
Photo 8: a Music Man Stingray bass with my
new pickguard in place. This guitar
has seen plenty of use!
►
Photos 9 & 10: a close-up of the controls on the Stingray, showing how the
orientation of the labels makes sense for the guitar player. Generally, only
capacitors C1 and C2 are required, as shown here, but the extra pads give you
more options.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 91
Fig.8: while the other three circuits were for bass guitars, this one is for a Fender Telecaster standard electric guitar.
It’s the simplest of the four due to the minimal space available on the guitar, with pickup switching, tone and volume
controls and a simple on/off overdrive option.
cap is loaded. After this is the overdrive control, formed by potentiometer VR2 and inverse-parallel schottky
diodes D1& D2.
The final control is the volume
control, VR3, with the treble bleed
circuitry already described. A single
1nF capacitor (C2) is used in my prototype, but footprints R5, C6, and C7
are also provided to give flexibility to
the builder.
Fender Telecaster
The previous circuits have all been
designed for electric bass guitars but
can also be applied to electric guitars.
The Fender Telecaster (Photo 11) is
one of the oldest and most popular
electric guitars, and its two-pickup
combination can work with a circuit
similar to that of the Jazz Bass. There
are too many famous Telecaster players
to list, including Jimmy Page, Keith
Richards, Bruce Springsteen, George
Harrison and Muddy Waters.
The standard controls on a telecaster
are a three-way pickup selector switch
(neck/bridge/both) and the typical
volume and tone controls. These can
be replaced with the circuit shown in
Fig.8, Photo 12 & Photo 13.
The output jack negative, the second single coil negative and the bridge
shield connect directly to circuit
ground. The negative of the first single coil and the positive of the second
single coil are routed to S1, a DPDT
toggle switch providing series/parallel
switching for the two coils.
The output from S1 is sent to S2,
a three-way bridge/neck selector
switch. With S1 in the standard parallel mode, S2 can select between
the neck pickup only, bridge pickup
only, or both pickups. With S1 in the
series position, S2 selects between on
and mute.
The signal is then sent to the tone
control potentiometer, VR1. Two footprints are provided for capacitors.
After this is the passive overdrive,
which differs from other circuits in
its use of a switch rather than a potentiometer.
Due to space constraints, the dual
schottky diodes are simply switched
in or out of circuit. An SPST or SPDT
toggle switch can be used here. After
that is pot VR3, the volume control,
with a single 1nF treble bleed capacitor.
This circuit does not include a
¼-inch output jack, as the Telecaster
mounts this off-board on the bottom
edge of the body. The output signal
instead connects back to the 7-way
Photos 12 & 13: once your Telecaster pickguard has been assembled and the wires added, it should look like this, ready to
install in the guitar. The pickguard is packed with controls and has a zigzag pattern to add a bit of interest.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Photo 11: a Fender Telecaster electric guitar. Source: www.
keyboardcorner.com.au/fender-player-telecaster-pau-ferrofingerboard-3-color-sunburst/
Parts List – Electric & Bass Guitar Pickguards
screw terminal, where it can connect
to flying leads that wire down to the
output jack.
Construction
All versions can be approached
similarly, referring to the photos
presented so far and the relevant
PCB overlay diagram (one of Figs.912). Begin by mounting the toggle
switch(es) and securing them to the
PCB with the supplied washer and
nut.
I prefer a flush mount; if the toggle stands too proud for your liking,
an additional nut can be placed on
the back of the switch to adjust the
length of shaft that protrudes through
the PCB.
Tin the SMD pads and toggle switch
terminals with solder, then run short
lengths of fine-gauge wire from the
pads to the terminals. The DPDT and
DP3T switches require all six connections, while the SPST/SPDT on the
Telecaster circuit only needs the two
connections as marked.
Continue by mounting the ¼-inch
jack (excluding the Telecaster). Secure
it to the circuit board using the supplied washer and nut, like the toggle switches. Tin the two terminals
and the pads and make connections
with the fine gauge wire. The hot pad
connects to the tip of the instrument
cable, the longest conductor on the
jack. The ground connection is to the
jack’s sleeve.
Now mount the potentiometers.
The Volume and Tone controls are
nominally 500kW audio taper, but
other values can be substituted if the
builder prefers.
siliconchip.com.au
Parts common to all versions
2 500kW logarithmic taper single-gang 16mm spline shaft potentiometers (VR1, VR3)
[Altronics R2237]
1 6.35mm switched SPST mono jack socket (CON2) [Altronics P0062] *
3 16mm aluminium ¼-inch shaft grub screw knobs [Altronics H6331]
2 BAT43W 30V 200mA SMD schottky diodes, SOD-123 (D1, D2) [DigiKey, Mouser etc]
1 220nF 16V metallised plastic film or NP0/C0G ceramic capacitor, M3216/1206 size
[DigiKey ECP-U1C224MA5]
1 1nF 100V metallised plastic film or NP0/C0G ceramic capacitor, M3216/1206 size
[DigiKey ECW-U1102JX5]
1 1m length of black light-duty hookup wire
* omit jack socket and one knob for Telecaster
Fender Jazz Bass specific parts
1 double-sided PCB with black solder mask coded 23109241, 127 × 105.5mm
1 5-way SMD screw terminal, 3.5mm pitch (CON1) [DigiKey 2383942-5]
1 DPDT solder tail mini toggle switch (S1) [Altronics S1345]
1 "Les Paul 3 Way Selector" DP3T switch (S2) [AliExpress 1005001900886767]
1 100kW linear taper single-gang 16mm spline shaft potentiometer (VR2)
[Altronics R2228]
J&D Luthiers T-Style specific parts
1 double-sided PCB with black solder mask coded 23109242, 200.5 × 87.5mm
1 7-way SMD screw terminal, 3.5mm pitch (CON1) [DigiKey 2383942-7]
1 ‘on-on-on’ DPDT miniature toggle switch with solder tags (S1) [Pedal Parts Australia
SWTS0008]
1 "Les Paul 3 Way Selector" DP3T switch (S2) [AliExpress 1005001900886767]
1 100kW linear taper single-gang 16mm spline shaft potentiometer (VR2)
[Altronics R2228]
Music Man Stingray specific parts
1 double-sided PCB with black solder mask coded 23109243, 190 × 71mm
1 5-way SMD screw terminal, 3.5mm pitch (CON1) [DigiKey 2383942-5]
1 ‘on-on-on’ DPDT miniature toggle switch with solder tags (S1) [Pedal Parts Australia
SWTS0008]
1 100kW linear taper single-gang 16mm spline shaft potentiometer (VR2)
[Altronics R2228]
Fender Telecaster specific parts
1 double-sided PCB with black solder mask coded 23109244, 28.5 × 148mm
1 7-way SMD screw terminal, 3.5mm pitch (CON1) [DigiKey 2383942-7]
1 DPDT solder tail mini toggle switch (S1) [Altronics S1345]
1 "Les Paul 3 Way Selector" DP3T switch (S2) [AliExpress 1005001900886767]
1 SPDT solder tail mini toggle switch (S3) [Altronics S1310]
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 93
Fig.9: the replacement
pickguard for the
T-Style bass is relatively
large and easy to assemble.
Connections to the guitar are
made via a 7-way SMD screw
terminal, as through-holes would
mar the appearance of the outer
(visible) side of the PCB.
Fig.10: the Jazz Bass
pickguard is quite a bit
smaller than the T-Style
bass but all the controls still
fit neatly. A 5-way terminal is
used this time because the bass
doesn’t have a humbucker pickup
with its two extra terminals.
For instance, 250kW and 1MW pots
are also commonly used on many
instruments. Generally speaking,
higher values will give a brighter voicing to the instrument but will also
increase the circuit’s output impedance.
The potentiometers are mounted
flush against the PCB, with the provided keyway holding the control
in place to prevent unwanted body
rotation.
The terminals can be bent down
towards the pads on the PCB and soldered with a blob. Begin by applying
94
Silicon Chip
solder to the legs of the pot and wait
for the solder to reflow down onto the
pads for a good connection.
Finish the potentiometers by mounting the brushed aluminium knobs to
the shaft. If the pot shaft is too long,
it can be cut with a hacksaw and filing to give a flush mount. The knobs
secure to the shaft by tightening the
grub screw.
Next, mount the SMD screw terminal. Solder each leg individually in a
similar way to the pot legs; flow solder
onto the legs and wait for it to reflow
onto the pads of the PCB.
Australia's electronics magazine
Finally, the passives can be soldered
to the pads on the circuit board. I used
plastic film caps throughout, as plastic dielectrics are highly linear. Finish
by soldering the schottky diodes with
opposite orientations.
Editor’s note: C0G ceramics are
more linear than many common film
caps, such as polyester types, so they
might give a more neutral sound.
The pickups can now be wired to
the screw terminal, and the entire
assembly mounted to the body of the
instrument with 3mm wood screws.
Happy playing!
SC
siliconchip.com.au
ALL DIAGRAMS ARE SHOWN AT 100% FULL SIZE
N/I = NOT INSTALLED FOR STANDARD BUILD
Fig.11: the Music Man Stingray pickguard can double as a boomerang! It’s pretty large, so all
the controls are nicely spaced out. The single humbucker pickup means that only a five-way
terminal is required for this one.
Fig.12: the Telecaster pickguard is the most compact of
all, so there’s only room for the necessary components.
To save space, the overdrive pot is replaced with a switch.
Raspberry Pi Pico W BackPack
The new Raspberry Pi Pico W provides WiFi functionality, adding
to the long list of features. This easy-to-build device includes a
3.5-inch touchscreen LCD and is programmable in BASIC, C or
MicroPython, making it a good general-purpose controller.
This kit comes with everything needed to build a Pico W BackPack module, including
components for the optional microSD card, IR receiver and stereo audio output.
$85 + Postage ∎ Complete Kit (SC6625)
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/20/6625
The circuit and assembly instructions were published in the January 2023 issue: siliconchip.au/Article/15616
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
September 2024 95
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