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How To Fix Damaged Hifi Speakers
SILICON
CHIP
NOVEMBER
1997
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Contents
Vol.10, No.11; November 1997
FEATURES
4 Understanding Electric Lighting; Pt.1
This new series looks at the different types of lights available & describes
how they work. In Pt.1, we look at the basic units & terms – by Julian Edgar
9 Microsoft’s Power Toys: Tweak Your PC’s Interface
This handy collection of utilities from Microsoft lets you enhance your
Windows 95 interface – by Greg Swain
14 Replacing Foam Speaker Surrounds
You don’t have to throw away those expensive drivers when their foam roll
surrounds perish. Here’s a simple fix to get them going again – by Bill Hendry
Replacing Foam Loudspeaker
Surrounds – Page 14
72 Making Old Ships Go Faster
Novel marine propulsion system for refurbished container ships
PROJECTS TO BUILD
18 Heavy Duty 10A 240VAC Motor Speed Controller
This new speed controller can be used with power tools rated up to 10A &
gives smooth control from zero to full speed – by John Clarke
40 Easy-To-Use Cable & Wiring Tester
Compact device employs four LEDs to speedily indicate the health of a pair
of wires. You can use it to test cables & wiring systems – by Leon Williams
54 A Regulated Supply For Darkroom Lamps
Don’t let variations in the mains supply ruin your prints. This circuit will keep
the enlarger lamp at a constant colour temperature – by Rick Walters
62 Build A Musical Doorbell
It plays a sequence of nine notes each time someone presses your doorbell
button. You program it to play the tune you want – by Bob Flynn
Heavy Duty 10A Motor Speed
Controller – Page 18
Easy-To-Use
Cable &
Wiring Tester
– Page 40
SPECIAL COLUMNS
30 Serviceman’s Log
From soap to Teletext – by the TV Serviceman
66 Radio Control
How does a servo work? – by Bob Young
76 Vintage Radio
The 4-valve Airzone superhet – by John Hill
80 Computer Bits
Relocating your CD-ROM drive – by Jason Cole
DEPARTMENTS
2 Publisher’s Letter
3 Mailbag
38 Circuit Notebook
53 Order Form
89 Ask Silicon Chip
91 Notes & Errata
95 Market Centre
96 Advertising Index
Musical Doorbell – Page 62
November 1997 1
PUBLISHER'S LETTER
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Editor
Greg Swain, B.Sc.(Hons.)
Technical Staff
John Clarke, B.E.(Elec.)
Robert Flynn
Rick Walters
Reader Services
Ann Jenkinson
Advertising Manager
Brendon Sheridan
Phone (03) 9720 9198
Mobile 0416 009 217
Regular Contributors
Brendan Akhurst
Garry Cratt, VK2YBX
Julian Edgar, Dip.T.(Sec.), B.Ed
John Hill
Mike Sheriff, B.Sc, VK2YFK
Ross Tester
Philip Watson, MIREE, VK2ZPW
Bob Young
SILICON CHIP is published 12 times
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2 Silicon Chip
EMC regulations a
disadvantage for Australia
Over the last year or so there has been considerable anguish in the Australian electronics
industry over the complexity and costs of
complying with the new EMC standards. In
essence, these EMC (Electromagnetic Compatibility) regulations appear to have been introduced with little consultation with industry.
If there had been widespread consultation,
the overwhelming reaction would have been
that we don’t want or need these regulations.
The real problem with these regulations
is that they closely follow the European standards which appear to have been
framed to make it as difficult as possible for countries outside Europe to get
their products in.
If Australia was a major exporter of electronic and electrical products to Europe there might be some point in adopting these standards but we’re not. And
those Australian manufacturers who do export to Europe will automatically
comply with European standards anyway.
This is the same story as with the proposed reduction of mains voltage in
Australia from 240VAC to 230VAC. We wrote about this in the April and May
1994. That will still happen by the way but there will be no benefit to Australia,
only costs.
What’s in the new EMC regulations for Australian consumers? As far as we
can see, very little. All electrical and electronic products being sold in Australia
now must comply with the new standards and that means that they will either
be dearer than they otherwise would have been or they will be withdrawn
from sale, to avoid the costs of compliance. In the meantime, big and small
Australian companies, whether they are exporting or not, still must bear the
costs of compliance.
There is also some anecdotal evidence that imported products which supposedly do comply with the standards actually produce quite high levels of
interference. However, it seems that the bureaucrats are more interested in
checking the paperwork to see that products have been approved than whether
approved products actually produce interference. That stands to reason, doesn’t
it? Their thinking would be, “If it’s approved, it must be OK”.
By the way, I am all for EMC regulations but we don’t need the draconian
regulations we have now. And nor, interestingly enough, does the USA. They
have not moved to meet European standards and why should they? They have
their own set of regulations set by the FCC and other bodies and they are quite
adequate. And so were our previous standards but they were not enforced.
I believe that ultimately the whole process of EMC enforcement is in danger
of falling into a heap. Unless the Spectrum Management Authority, now merged
into Australian Communications Authority, has the staff to actually check that
approved products radiate low levels of interference or are not subject to interference, then there is not much point in having the regulations in the first place.
In fact, it is highly likely that the ACA does not have enough staff to even
check that all the electronic and electrical products being sold in Australia
actually are backed with the paperwork to show they comply. To do so, they
will need to audit each and every business in Australia involved in importing,
distribution or retailing. That’s an enormous task.
The big problem for Australia in all this is that there are not enough organisations or individuals in Australia who are willing to speak out against these
initiatives when they are first mooted. We spoke out against the initiative to
reduce the 240VAC mains voltage but the response was a big yawn. Well, Australia will pay dearly, just as we will for these EMC regulations.
If you want to find out more about EMC you can check it out on the Internet
at http//www.aca.gov.au
Leo Simpson
MAILBAG
Upgrading a 486
I recently had the experience of
installing AMD 5x86-133 CPUs in
two 486 motherboards, one a Chic
ony brand, the other a Biostar with a
UMC chipset, neither of which was
designed with a 586 CPU in mind.
The AMD 5x86-133 CPU can be made
to work in a motherboard not specifically designed for it by jumpering
it as per an AMD DX4-100 “plus” or
“enhanced” CPU; ie one with power
management functions. Jumpering
it as a plain AMD or Intel DX4-100
will not work. Choose a 3.45V supply
voltage and a 33MHz CPU clock.
At this point the BIOS will identify
the CPU as an AMD DX4 running at
100MHz. For the CPU to run at its
rated 133MHz, a “clock multiplier”
jumper must be set. Look for a jumper
whose function is “jumper open = 3x
clock, jumper closed = 2x clock”. A
Biostar manual describes this jumper
as “DX/DX4 open, DX2 closed”. A
DX4-100 CPU can run (internally)
at either 3x or 2x the motherboard
clock. Normally the bus clock is set
to 33MHz, and the CPU clock = 3x 33
= 99MHz. I suppose one could use a
bus clock of 50MHz and CPU clock
= 2x 50 = 100MHz. I suspect that
the latter combination would result
in faster I/O (eg, faster graphics and
disc I/O) at the same internal CPU
speed. I haven’t tried this, though.
A 5x86-133 CPU uses a clock
multiplier of either 3x or 4x. In this
case, the jumper described above
has a slightly different meaning. An
open jumper selects a 3x clock as
before (99MHz), but a closed jumper
selects a 4x clock (133MHz). This
jumper may take some finding. For
those with a multimeter, one side of
this jumper is connected to earth, the
other to pin R-17 (CLKMUL) of the
CPU. When correctly set, the BIOS
sees the CPU as an AMD DX4 “plus”
running at 4x 33 = 132 MHz. Be sure
to enable write-back mode for the
internal CPU cache (16K).
I wonder if a system using a
clock-doubled 486DX4-100 CPU on a
50MHz bus (assuming this were possible) would be faster than the same
system using a 5x86-133 CPU on a
33MHz bus? What about a 586-133
running at 120MHz in clock tripled
mode on a 40MHz bus?
F. Zabkar,
Barrack Heights, NSW.
Video security sign
has a drawback
I have just read the Video Security
article on page 62 of the September
edition of SILICON CHIP. I feel that
anyone contem
plating using the
sign on page 67 should consider the
following scenario.
Having just burgled your neighbour’s home, burglars about to burgle
yours are confronted by this sign.
Now they must burgle your home
in order to retrieve the tape linking
them with the neighbour’s burglary.
If after ransacking your home they
are unable to locate the tape, their
options are limited, one being to
torch your home in order to destroy
the evidence.
A safer solution for a low security
site such as a home is a sign that
reads: “This property is under VIDEO SURVEILLANCE with Off-Site
Recording”.
Any VCR used for recording
should be well-hidden. If the power
meter box is not secure, then a UPS
(low cost computer type may be
adequate) should be used to power
the VCR, cameras, etc. Although
probably unnecessary for a home
but certainly of value for shop and
business surveillance is a dummy
VCR complete with tape placed in a
prominent position. This tape may
be easily taken by or handed over
(under threat) to a burglar.
K. Forknall,
Northlands, WA.
Backing up
is important
Referring to your editorial in the
July 1997 issue of SILICON CHIP, I
think you hit the nail right on the
head. Many people don’t even think
of or are even told about backups.
This could be due to the view of sales
people assuming that the purchaser
will only use the machine for trivial
or unimport
ant tasks; eg, playing
games.
In many cases the machine will
work OK for a long period of time but
one day it may play up. What’s the
next step? – try to find what’s caused
the corruption and get a backup disc
out and restore the corrupted files.
If you don’t have a backup the data
is unrecoverable and you’ll never
see it again. Even with disc repair
utilities such as Norton’s this will
not guarantee to get any or all of your
data back!
I recently purchased a backup tape
drive for my machine to complement
an already numerous set of backup
floppy discs. Despite this, a couple
of months ago I lost a file due to
corruption and ended up recreating
it from a printout because the corruption had unknowingly been saved
and both machine and floppy had
the corrupted file. You can never be
too cautious!
S. Sidoti,
Lilyfield, NSW.
Burst charging
does the job
I have been evaluating Nicad Battery Charger designs lately with the
intention of building two permanent
installations for domestic use. Two
articles from SILICON CHIP have been
brought to my attention, these being
in the May 1994 and October 1995
issues. Both these featured projects
using the Philips TEA 1100 IC which,
if I have read and understood both
articles correctly, rely on “Delta V”
voltage detection to terminate normal charge mode and progress to
trickle charge.
The reason I mention these two
articles is that I have also read the
excellent article by Horst Reuter from
Smart FastChargers in the January
1996 issue of SILICON CHIP. In his
article he mentions that he is of the
opinion that once the charge voltage
peak is reached and the voltage levels
out, any nicad battery still charging
in the normal charge mode and
which reaches the point where the
voltage starts to drop (the “Delta V”
continued on page 7
November 1997 3
Pt.1: Units and Terms
Electric
Lighting
In this new series on electric lighting,
we will look at the different types of
lights available and describe how they
work. But let’s first examine the basic
units and terms.
By JULIAN EDGAR
Looking around as you travel at
night through city streets, you can’t
help but wonder at all the different
lights. Bright yellow street lights,
white fluorescent tubes positioned
behind glowing signs, small intensely
bright lights used in shop displays –
they all use different technology to
turn night into day. Like most tech4 Silicon Chip
nology, we tend to take the presence
of electric light for granted – until the
power goes off or a blown lamp makes
our car a one-eyed monster.
But did you know that the output of
a fluorescent tube decreases at lower
temperatures, or that more infrared
energy than visible light is emitted
by the humble light bulb? That the
pressure of the gas inside a light bulb
changes as it gets hotter? That it’s not
just your imagination that objects
change colour under different lights?
That excess lighting in offices places
a large load on the airconditioning
equipment? That not cleaning lights
can effectively decrease their output
by 25% after a few years?
In this series we will answer questions like these and also examine
all of the common types of electric
lighting used. There’s certainly a lot
more to it than initially meets the
eye and that includes answering an
apparently simple question – how
do we describe the amount of light
produced by a lamp?
Luminous intensity
Luminous intensity is measured in
Candela (cd) in both the imperial and
metric systems. The origins of the unit
can be directly traced back to candles
made of whale fat.
In 1860, a unit of luminous intensity known as the “candle” was established. This used, as the base standard, a candle made from a specific
quantity of sperm whale fat burning at
a specified rate. Later gas flames also
used this unit, with a then-typical gas
flame having a luminous intensity of
16 candles. Early incandescent lights
had a luminous intensity of a similar
magnitude!
In 1909, the candle was redefined
in terms of a group of carbon filament
incandescent lamps having precise
filament dimen
sions and operating
with a defined voltage. By 1937,
the definition included a blackbody
radiator which at the temperature
of solidification of platinum had a
luminous intensity of 60 candles per
square centimetre. In 1948, the unit
was renamed the candela and in 1979
its definition was changed to involve
the radiation of light of a single wavelength at a precise power.
As an example of a real world use,
luminous intensity is used to describe
the amount of light emitted in selected
direc
tions from lamps and fittings.
Fig.1 shows an example of the intensity distribution of a 150 watt PAR
(“Portaflood”) bulb.
Fig.1: the luminous intensity distribution of a PAR-type 150W
bulb. Luminous intensity is measured in candelas. Here it can
be seen that directly in line with the beam axis, the bulb has an
intensity of 12,000 candelas, falling off to only 1,000 candelas
at 20° to the tightly-focused beam. (Murdoch, B. Illumination
Engineering).
Fig.2: the eye is most
sensitive to light with a
wavelength of 550
nanometres (yellow-green
light). At wavelengths either
side of this, the
sensitivity falls rapidly. At
450nm (violet), the
sensitivity of the eye has
typically dropped by over
96%! This change in
sensitivity must be taken into
account when measuring
luminous flux. (Murdoch, B.
Illumination Engineering).
Luminous flux
Luminous flux is measured in lumens, which is abbreviated to lm. Just
as there is an electrical power input
measured in watts, there is a “light
power” output measured in lumens.
The reason that “light power” is not
measured in watts is because the response of the eye to different colours
needs to be taken into account.
The part of the radiation spectrum
that we can see lies between wavelengths of 380 nanometres (blue)
and 780 nanometres (red). While
an instrument designed to measure
radiation power will read the same
at all wavelengths (assuming equal
power across the spectrum), the eye
has varying sensitivity to differ
ent
wavelengths.
A close light source producing
one watt of radiation at 555nm (yellow-green light) gives a very strong
sensation of light because the eye
is very sensitive to this wavelength.
However, at wavelengths either side
of 555nm, the sensitivity of the eye
rapidly decreases, as shown in Fig.2.
This means that expressing the light
power output in watts is not helpful
– if the light power is at a wavelength
that we can barely see, then even kilowatts of light power may be useless
for practical illumination. Instead, to
obtain a measure of the luminous flux
of a light, the radiant flux (measured
in watts) is weighted by the frequency
response curve of the eye. This means
that if the light emits a great deal of
radiation at 555nm, its lumen rating
will be high.
Conversely, if the light radiates at
a wavelength to which the eye has a
low sensitivity, it will have a low lu-
minous flux value even if the radiated
power is quite high.
The lumen is therefore a unit based
on human response and cannot be defined as a purely physical quantity, as
can the watt. Interestingly, individual
response curves often differ from the
typical curve shown in Fig.2. That
means that my 5 lumens may not be
quite the same as your 5 lumens!
Luminous flux measurements are
widely used in lighting. A typical
application is in expressing luminous
efficacy, a measurement of how much
light output there is for a given electrical power input. It is expressed in
lumens/watt, abbreviated to lm/W.
A typical incandescent light bulb
November 1997 5
Above: the reduction in illuminance that occurs at increasing distances from
directly beneath a lamp can be seen in this photo. This pattern of illuminance
can be plotted on an isolux diagram such as the one shown in Fig.4.
compared with the traditional white
painted backing plates.
Illuminance
has a luminous efficacy of 8-17
lm/W, while a low pressure sodium
discharge lamp (the yellow ones used
for highway lighting) has a vastly
better efficacy of 100-200 lm/W. If you
were paying the electrical bill (and
ultimately you are), which one would
you use to light a highway?
Another use of luminous flux is to
Location
express the actual light output of a
luminaire (light fittings are known as
luminaires in lighting parlance.) The
total light output of the luminaire divided by the light output of the lamp
gives the Light Output Ratio (LOR).
The LOR of a fluorescent luminaire
can be increased by up to 40% by
the use of high quality reflectors,
Maintained Illuminance (Lux)
Instrument assembly
1500
Garment manufacture - sewing
750
School classroom
500
Cinema auditorium
50
Kitchen work areas
500
Hospital ward at night
Operating theatre (local lighting)
1
100,000
Toilets
100
Supermarket
750
Fig.3: the CIE recommended illuminance levels for various activities. (Philips
Lighting Manual).
6 Silicon Chip
Illuminance is expressed in lux, abbreviated to lx and is a measurement
of how many lumens there are per
square metre. There are recommended
values of maintained illuminance for
various activities, with Fig.3 showing
some International Commission on
Illumination (CIE) suggestions. Because of the drop in illuminance as
lamps age and luminaires get dirty,
“maintained” in this context refers to
the actual illuminance obtained with
regular maintenance.
On a flat outside surface where there
are few reflections, it is quite easy to
plot lines of equal illuminance. These
lines are called isolux contours and
a typical isolux diagram is shown in
Fig.4. Basically, it is a diagram of the
“pool of light” found beneath outside
street lights – the one so beloved of
writers of detective fiction!
Such a diagram is useful when
designing the lighting system of a
car park, for example. The pattern of
illuminance shown by the diagram
can be clearly seen in the photograph
of the McDonald’s car park (above),
Mailbag : ctd from p.3
Fig.4: an isolux diagram shows lines of equal illuminance, as
would be found beneath a single light illuminating a car park,
for example. (Pritchard, D. Lighting).
detection point) has already entered the “over charge” mode.
This, he points out, is not desirable for long battery life. He
also mentions that it is desirable
to utilise some form of alternate
charge and discharge, especially
if one is charging at the fast charge
rate; ie 1C.
I must mention at this stage that
I have had one of Horst Reuter’s
fast chargers and have found that
it has done wonders for cells and
batteries which had become marginal for a variety of reasons and
it is fast reaching the point where
it has just about paid for itself. I
would be very interested to hear
your views on the points which I
have raised.
I do look forward to reading the
many interesting articles which appear in SILICON CHIP each month.
M. Fraer,
New Zealand.
Comment: the licensed technology
used by Smart FastChargers does
appear to be effective. What more
can we say?
TENS electrodes
not easy to obtain
The colour distribution of a light source can be directly examined with a
spectrometer, which uses a prism to split the light into its different colours.
which is illuminated mainly by a
single light source.
Colour temperature
An object at any temperature will
emit radiation. At low temperatures,
the wavelengths of the radiation are
mostly in the infrared region and
so cannot be seen. However, if the
temperature of the object is increased,
that object (eg, a piece of steel) will
start to glow (ie, it begins emitting
radiation that can be seen). The temperature of the object can be measured
in degrees Kelvin (K), which is its
temperature in degrees Celsius plus
273.15.
The radiation properties of a hypothetical so-called black body radiator
mean that it will be red at 1000°K,
I am writing to let you know of
an experience that I have just had
with your TENS kit, that you might
want to pass on to your readers. I
had a friend who wanted one made
so I decided to purchase a kitset.
The kitsets themselves are very
hard to find. I had to ring around
several Dick Smith Electronics
stores before locating one. The kit
itself is great. It is the electrodes
that are the real problem. Your
article states that the electrodes
are available from most chemists.
Unfortunately, that may not be
entirely accurate. I tried over eight
chemists in Sydney, none of whom
had stocked them for at least six
months. Only one chemist was
able to provide details of where
to get them. They can be bought
from Masters Medical, 8 Palmer St,
Parramatta, NSW 2150. Phone 02
9890 1711. They are about $15-$20
for a pair.
J. Cowan,
No address supplied.
November 1997 7
colour temper
atures, the perceived
colour of different light sources varies
relatively little. Daylight has a colour
temperature of about 5500°K, while
an incandescent light bulb is around
2800°K. Fluorescent tubes are available with colour temperatures ranging
from 2900-6500°K.
Unlike the eye, however, camera
film is very much affected by differing
colour temperatures. Photos taken
under 1500°K light
ing will have a
red cast, under 3000°K a yellowish
cast and under 12,000°K a blue cast.
Colour rendering
Photos taken under different lighting
clearly show the effect of varying
colour temperature. This photo has
a strong yellow cast and was taken
under incandescent tungsten halogen
lighting with a colour temperature of
about 3000°K.
Fig.5: (1) low pressure
sodium lamp; (2)
incandescent lamp; (3)
high pressure mercury
vapour lamp. The
appearance of colours
when illuminated by a
lamp depends on the
distribution of the
wavelengths of light
emitted by the lamp.
Under a sodium lamp,
everything is yellow!
(Pritchard, D. Lighting).
yellow near 3000°K, white near
5000°K, blueish white near 10,000°K
and pale blue near 30,000°K. This
means that the colour of a light source
can be specified in terms of its colour
temperature. This is the temperature
8 Silicon Chip
to which a blackbody radiator would
have to be heated to match the colour
of the light source.
Electric lights have widely varying
colour temperatures but because your
eyes are very tolerant of differing
Colour rendering refers to the
appearance of an object when it is
illuminated by the light source under consideration. Light sources of
similar colour temperature can have
completely differ
e nt wavelength
compositions and so can provide great
differences in colour rendering.
Fig.5 shows the spectra (mix of
wavelengths) of various lamps. The
low pressure sodium lamp (1) produces light at just a single wavelength
and so the lamp reveals only that
colour. Line 2 shows the spectrum of
a incandescent lamp, which has an
output that covers all wavelengths
fairly evenly – although there is an
emphasis on red. A high pressure mercury vapour lamp (3) has a mixture of
some ‘lines’ (high outputs at specific
wavelengths) mixed with a continuous background spectrum and a band
of energy at the red end. Of these light
sources, the incandescent lamp gives
the best colour rendering, followed by
the high pressure mercury lamp and
then the low pressure sodium lamp.
Colour rendering is measured on
a colour rendering index (expressed
as Ra) scale of 1-100, where 100
provides the best colour rendering.
The Ra scale for a lamp is based on
the illumi
nated appearance of 14
different colour chips. These colours
include saturated red, yellow, green
and blue; and colours approximating
the (white) human skin and green
foliage. The scale is based on the
average colour shift that occurs when
changing from the test to the reference
illuminant.
The colour rendering of incandescent lights is very good at 99Ra, while
fluorescent lights vary from 85-90Ra.
That’s all for this month. Next
month, we will look at incandescent
SC
lamps.
Tweak your PC’s interface with
Microsoft’s
PowerToys
This handy collection of utilities from
Microsoft lets you enhance your Windows
95 interface – By Greg Swain.
If you don’t already have them, the
Microsoft PowerToys provide some
handy user interface enhancements
for Windows 95. These enhancements
were developed by Microsoft’s Win95
team and you can download them
from the Microsoft web site. If you
don’t have access to the Internet, the
PowerToys are often included on the
CD-ROMs that come with some computer magazines.
Tweak UI is perhaps the handiest
utility in the PowerToys range. Tweak
UI stands for “tweak user interface”
and when you install the PowerToys,
the Tweak UI icon is automatically
installed into the Control Panel group.
To quote Microsoft, “Tweak UI is
a handy control panel for ‘Type A’
personalities”. Among other things, it
can be used to quickly change the boot
parameters, including whether or not
to automatically start the graphic user
interface or stop at the DOS prompt.
You can also select an option to automatically display the boot menu and
you can choose the length of time that
the boot menu is displayed (Fig.2).
Fig.2: TweakUI makes it easy to alter
the boot parameters. This machine is
set to show the boot menu for 10
seconds before booting into Windows.
Fig.3: this menu lets you change (or
delete) the shortcut arrow and can
eliminate that pesky “Shortcut to”
preface when you create a shortcut.
Fig.1: the TweakUI icon is installed
in the Control Panel group when you
install the PowerToys.
This saves you from having to manually edit the MSDOS.SYS file.
Tweak UI also lets you change the
appearance of your shortcuts (you can
have a smaller arrow or even get rid of
the arrow completely) and can eliminate that pesky “Shortcut to” phrase
when you create a shortcut (Fig.3).
It also lets you set mouse sensitivity
and speed and can prevent drive icons
from appearing in My Computer.
Another handy PowerToy is the
“Cabfile” viewer. For those unfamiliar
with the term, the Windows 95 program files are stored on the CD-ROM
(or floppies) as compressed files in
“cabs”. A “cab” consists of a number
of compressed files and, on the CDROM, is generally about 2.0Mb in size.
Normally, you can’t use the Explorer to
see inside these cab files but with this
PowerToy, Explorer treats the cab files
as though they were ordinary folders
so that you can see the individual
files. You can then extract a file from
a cab folder simply by dragging it to
another folder.
There’s lots more to Tweak UI and
also quite a few other useful Power
Toys, including QuickRes for on-the-fly
changes to screen settings (resolution
and bit depth) and FlexiCD for con
trolling audio CDs. The best way to
learn about them is to get hold of a copy
SC
and install it on your system.
November 1997 9
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
Replacing
foam
speaker
surrounds
. . . just follow this step-by-step procedure
Perished foam speaker surrounds are
a common problem for hifi enthusiasts.
Unfortunately, replacement drivers
are often unavailable or are expensive.
Here’s a simple step-by-step fix to get
things going again.
By BILL HENDRY
This article is in response to a letter
published on page 91 of the August
1997 issue, concerning the replacement of perished foam loudspeaker
surrounds. Although the answer
includes appropriate references to
the perils of DIY repairs, the process
certainly isn’t as onerous or as mysterious as one might infer.
I’ve been repairing speakers suffering from this complaint for six or
14 Silicon Chip
seven years now. Although it’s not
my professional area, I’ve developed
techniques that return the speakers
– from 4-inch midranges to 15-inch
woofers – to virtually as-new condi
tion. None has failed in this time
and owners I’ve spoken to since have
reported normal operation.
As has now become common
know
l edge, foam-type surrounds,
even if “tropic proofed,” deteriorate
quite quickly. Some become a soggy
mess in just two years, particularly
in my area, Mackay, on the Central
Queensland coast. The most durable
compounds appear to be rubber (1215 years) and impregnated cloth, the
latter used on some good Australian
speakers.
My technique is well suited to the
dedicated home enthu
siast. It’s inexpensive but does require patience
and dexterity. It can be used with
all cone materials and the assembly
appears to retain its fundamental
free-air resonance. However, the four
to six hours of work required may
not be justified for low-end, plug-in
replacement drivers.
The step-by-step procedure is as
follows:
Step 1: check the speaker care-
fully to ascertain that the cone is in
good condition and that the voice-coil
is intact. You should also check that
there’s nothing in the air-gap to impede normal movement and that the
rear suspension “spider” is in good
shape. There’s no need to cut away
the dust cap – in fact, doing so could
damage the (now unstable) voice-coil
assembly.
Step 2: clean the chassis and
cone edge thoroughly, removing all
traces of the perished material and any
glue. Some models may have dress
rings or segments which can be carefully removed and later reinstalled if
necessary (although they are usually
only cosmetic). I use a hobby knife to
scrape away the material but I haven’t
experimented with solvents.
On a pair of AR 25s that I recently
refurbished, the ring of surround
material remaining on the edge of
the cardboard cone was best removed
by carefully pulling it away from the
surface towards the edge. This has the
effect of also removing a thin layer
from the cone material which can
later be stabilised by the application
of a painted layer of PVA glue (eg,
Aquad
here). Other situations may
require the careful scraping away of
decomposed residue. Inspect the underside of the cone edge to confirm a
stable surface that’s necessary for the
next step.
All traces of the perished material have been removed from the chassis and
cone edge of this driver, which is now ready to accept its new felt roll surround.
Note the four dress ring segments which have been removed intact – these can
later be replaced if desired.
Step 3:: obtain an appropriate
piece of (black) felt from a haberdashery shop. You may not be able to
specify density or thickness but the
operation doesn’t appear to be grade
specific.
At this point, determine whether
you’d prefer to mount the felt surround replacement on the underside
or the upper (visible) side of the
cone. (On my last job, a 6-inch Bose
Studiocraft midrange, the rear of the
chassis was fully enclosed, necessitating attachment of the surround to
the upper side). Generally, underside
mounting results in a more presentable appearance, allowing for a very
neat “dressing” of the join.
The felt rings have been glued to the cones of the drivers shown here but not yet
to the chassis. Note that, in each case, the felt has been glued to the underside of
the cone but it can also be glued to the top of the cone if necessary.
overlap around the edge of the cone
when the felt is in place. The outside
of the felt should overlap the edge of
the speaker chassis by about 10mm
(this will be trimmed later).
You can use a template such as a
saucepan lid or a bowl to mark out
the felt, which can then be cut using
a hobby knife or a pair of scissors.
Step 4: (delete if you choose Step Step 5: run a bead of PVA glue
7). If the edge of the felt is going to be
visible (ie; attached to the upper side
of the cone), cut a hole in the felt that’s
10-12mm less than the diameter of
the cone. This will provide a 5-6mm
around the edge of the cone and
smooth it neatly to produce a band
5-6mm wide. This done, do the same
to the inside edge of the felt ring out
to the point of overlap.
Step 6: place the felt ring central-
ly onto the cone and press it carefully
onto the surface. Work the leading
edge so that the felt appears “chamfered” at the line of contact with
the cone. Paper wedges (eg, loosely
crumpled tissues) placed between the
cone and the basket will help to keep
the cone stable during this procedure.
Step 7:
(delete if you chose
Step 4): if the edge of the felt is to be
attached on the underside, cut out
a circle in the felt using a compass,
a dressmaker’s white pencil and
November 1997 15
not allow runs to dribble down the
supports towards the spider during
this procedure.
Step 11: this step is critical. Gen-
Once the felt has been glued to the chassis, it can be trimmed by running a sharp
hobby knife around the inside of the lip.
scissors. Neatness isn’t so important
in this case, and you won’t need to
spend time hunting for a template of
the right dimension. Apply glue to the
appropriate edges as described in Step
5 above. It can be frustrating working
through the rear of the chassis, so an
artist’s brush can be a help.
Step 8: carefully manoeuvre the
felt ring over the cone and bring the
mating surfaces together. Now, working from the back, make sure that the
felt ring is centrally located and work
the contact area to optimise adhesion.
16 Silicon Chip
Step 9: run a thin bead of glue
around the cone at its junction with
the felt ring. At this stage leave the
PVA to dry completely.
Step 10: lay the speaker on its
magnet. You now have the inner edge
of the felt ring attached to the cone and
the outer edge overlapping the chassis
by about 10mm. Lift the skirt of the
felt ring to expose the flat area on the
outer edge of the basket and, using a
small brush, paint a generous film of
glue onto the entire flat surface. Do
tly place an upturned glass centrally
on the cone (over the dustcap), with
sufficient weight to depress the cone
to its maximum backward excursion
position. This will be indicated by
either the former contacting the back
of the magnet assembly or the rear
suspension spider being stretched to
its limit (be careful not to deform it
permanently, though). Carefully wiggle the glass up and down and from
side to side to make absolutely sure
that the voice-coil is centred in the
air-gap. It may be necessary to “play”
with the assembly to become aware of
the tolerances.
Step 12:
gently move your
hands around the edge of the speaker, working the felt evenly onto the
glued surface. This done, use a blunt
table knife to create a sharp corner in
the felt at the point where the lip is
flanged forward.
Step 13: remove the glass and
check that the assembly moves freely
Below: the lefthand speaker in this
photo has been finished, except for the
mounting holes and the optional dress
ring segments. Note the “roll” in the
felt between the edge of the cone and
where the felt attaches to the frame.
to its natural rest position. In so doing,
the felt will bulge or dome to form the
roll necessary for normal cone travel.
Allow the glue to dry.
Step 14:
run a hobby knife
around the inside of the lip to create a
neat invisible edge at the flange. This
done, gently lift the cone by applying
equal equal pressure to both sides
and check that the whole assembly
is axially free but radially secure; ie,
the cone should move backwards and
forwards easily but should not move
from side to side.
Step 15: make mounting holes
in the felt to align with the holes in
the chassis flange. This can be neatly
achieved by first gently pushing a hot
soldering iron tip right through the
felt from the rear at each flange hole
position to create a pilot hole. The
holes can then be finished by pushing
the soldering iron tip through from
the front.
Step 16: at this stage, it’s time to
decide whether you want to replace
the dress ring segments. The finished
speaker looks quite acceptable without them and, in any case, they may
have been damaged during removal.
If you do decide to fit them, glue them
onto the surface of the felt using a thin
layer of PVA but don’t let the glue
contact the roll. Turn the speaker face
down so that its weight is on the dress
segments during drying.
Step 17:
apply a generous
quantity of grease to the felt. Do not
use engine grease; instead, use a
high-temperature, waterproof compound (eg, Bel-Ray marine grade). This
is applied to the felt surround with a
fairly stiff-bristled brush, so that the
grease is worked well into the fibres
(do the whole surround if there’s no
dress ring). This has the necessary
effect of clogging the air-gaps between
the fibres but allows the surround to
retain its flexibility. It also discourages
creatures from making a meal of the
felt. If some deformation of the roll
occurs during this process, reform it by
gently running the handle end of the
brush around the underside of the felt.
The result is an attractive, fairly
New Foam Surrounds For AR Speakers
On page 91 in the August 1997
issue, G. E. of Armidale, NSW asks
about new foam surrounds for AR
speakers. I cannot entirely agree with
your answer.
I have had more than 20 speakers
fitted with new surrounds, some over
20 years old, and in no instance has
there ever been a problem with the
cones themselves. More than half my
repaired units have been AR (I am a
huge fan) and I still own and use five
AR pairs. The best pair are 24-year-old
AR3a’s which are quite superb and
compare easily with anything costing
up to $5000.
In New Zealand, a cone surround
job for a pair of 12-inch drivers costs
about $NZ120 (approximately $A100),
while new surrounds for 8-inch drivers
cost about $NZ85 ($A70). For that
cost, the units are inspected (cones,
suspension and chassis), fitted with
new surrounds and the voice coil as-
uniform surface that looks quite professional.
The speaker is now ready for use.
It’s a good idea to feed a very low-frequency sinewave (say 10-20Hz) at low
voltage into the voice-coil to check
that the cone moves freely before the
system is reassembled and played at
high volume levels.
Final notes
A few final points are worth noting:
(1) You may feel inclined to paint
the entire surface of the (cardboard)
cone with PVA to: (a) freshen the
appearance, (b) stiffen it, and (c)
minimise “grease-creep” across the
cone. I don’t normally do this to a
diaphragm in good condition, in case
it significantly alters the cone’s mass.
(2) You might consider coating the
surround of a new speaker with the
abovementioned grease, even if it has
been tropic-proofed. I did this with a
10-inch Etone subwoofer foam surround and there’s been little change
in its appearance after seven years.
(3) Although I’ve never noticed a
problem, you might feel more confident using a non-water based glue,
thereby obviating potential corrosion
of the metal parts. During the devel-
sembly checked for correct alignment.
They are also fitted with a new spider
suspension and dust cap if necessary,
tested and guaranteed. This is excel
lent value and the situation is probably
similar in Australia.
AR have always been masters of
acoustic suspension speak
ers, so
cabinet size, cone size and air tightness are critical. Your correspondent
should stress this to the repairer. Of
course, if he can buy new drivers at
reasonable cost, then that is a simpler
solution. Depending on age, correct
drivers may be difficult to obtain.
The Australian agent for AR is WC
Wedderspoon Pty Ltd, 3 Ford St,
Greenacre, NSW 2190. Phone (02)
9642 3993.
If your correspondent requires any
help or would like to communicate with
me I would be happy to oblige, as an
AR enthusiast.
J. Calkin, Takapuna, NZ.
opmental stages of this technique, I
used contact glue but there’s no room
for error – the mating surfaces have
to be positioned exactly.
(4) Often the gasket that seals the
speaker to the baffle board is damaged,
disintegrated or missing. To overcome
this problem, I use the Bel-Ray grease
to form a continuous ridge at the edge
of the baffle-board cutout. The refitted
speaker then provides an automatic
seal which, if necessary, can easily
be broken if the driver needs to be
removed.
Finally, please note that although
the technique described here generally gives good results, it doesn’t restore
a driver to its exact original specifications. That’s because the compliance
of the felt used to make the repair
will differ from the compliance of the
original foam surround.
The method of attachment will
also have some effect on the free-air
resonance of the repaired speak
er,
although its sensitivity will probably
be much the same as before.
In the end, it’s up to you. If you
don’t want to fork out big dollars for
new drivers, then you’ve got nothing
to loose and you will probably be
quite happy with the end result. SC
November 1997 17
Heavy duty
10A 240VAC
Motor Speed
Controller
18 Silicon Chip
T
HIS NEW SPEED CONTROLLER can be
used with power tools rated up to 10 amps
and will give smooth control from zero to full
speed. Use it to control the speed of electric drills,
routers, circular saws, lawn edgers and other
appliances with universal brush-type motors.
Design by JOHN CLARKE
Our last Drill Speed Controller,
published in September & November
1992, has been extremely popular
and has been used in a host of applications, some of them far beyond
what we ever envisaged. But while
it is still a valid design, it does have
shortcomings.
The first of these is that the maximum speed attainable from the motor
is considerably reduced. So for an
electric drill which normally runs at
say 3000 rpm, the maximum speed
might be reduced to around 2200 rpm.
This is inevitable with an SCR (silicon
controlled rectifier) since the controller circuit effectively half-wave
rectifies the 240VAC mains sinewave
to give a maximum output voltage
of around 160 volts RMS. Result:
reduced speed and power capability.
The second drawback has to do
with low speed control. While the
1992 circuit does allow your drill or
other appliance to run at quite low
speeds, the result leaves much to
be desired. There isn’t much torque
available and the speed regulation is
poor. This means that if you’re operating your drill at a low speed and
you put a reasonable load on it, its
speed will drop right away or it may
stall completely.
Worse, the motor will tend to
“cog”. This is caused by erratic firing
of the SCR (Triac) so that the motor
gets intermittent bursts of power. An
electric drill that is cogging badly is
virtually useless and the only cure is
to increase the speed setting which
rather defeats the purpose if you want
to operate at low speed.
The new SILICON CHIP Motor Speed
Controller overcomes these drawbacks. The design does away with
traditional phase control circuitry
and uses switchmode power supply
techniques to produce an outstanding
controller for universal brush-type
motors. By the way, before we go
further we should point out that virtually all power tools and appliances
use so-called universal motors. These
are series wound motors with brushes.
We’ll have more to say on this point
later in the article.
Why use a speed control anyway?
Well, why not? Most power tools will
do a better job if they have a speed
control. For example, electric drills
should be slowed down when using
larger drill bits; they make a cleaner
cut. Similarly, it is useful to be able
Features
• Control from zero to maximum
speed
• Good speed regulation under
load
• Smooth low speed operation
• Freedom from cogging
• Can power appliances rated
up to 2400W
• Overcurrent limiting
• Fuse protection
• Earthed diecast case
• Interference suppression
included
What Motors Can Be Controlled?
We’ve noted elsewhere in this article that virtually all power tools and
appliances use so-called universal motors. These are series wound motors
with brushes. But how do you make sure that your power tool or appliance
is a universal motor and not an induction motor. Induction motors must not
be used with this speed controller.
In many power tools you can easily identify that the motor has brushes
and a commutator – you see sparking from the brushes and that settles the
matter. But if you can’t see the brushes, you can also get a clue from the
nameplate or the instruction booklet.
OK, so how do you identify an induction motor? Most induction motors
used in domestic appliances will be 2-pole or 4-pole and always operate
at a fixed speed which is typically 2850 rpm for a 2-pole or 1440 rpm for a
4-pole unit. The speed will on the name plate. Bench grinders typically use
2-pole induction motors.
November 1997 19
ciples. Having said that, we had better explain what we mean by phase
control before we can illustrate the
benefits of the new circuitry.
Phase control
Fig.1: these waveforms illustrate the operation of a typical phase-controlled
SCR when a motor is driven at a slow speed. The full sinewave is the 50Hz AC
mains voltage, while the chopped waveform is the voltage applied to the motor.
Its RMS value is 147V.
Fig.2: chopped waveforms from an SCR speed control at high and low settings.
At the high setting (lower trace) the motor has 164V applied to it while at the
low setting (upper trace) the motor has 144V applied. If the motor is to run at
full speed, it would need to be fed with both the positive and negative halfcycles of the 50Hz mains waveform.
to slow down routers, jigsaws and
even circular saws when cutting some
materials, particularly plastics.
The same applies to sanding and
polishing tools and even electric
20 Silicon Chip
whipper snippers are less likely to
snap their lines when slowed down.
As mentioned above, the new design does not use phase controlled
circuitry but uses switchmode prin-
Phase control refers to a method
of triggering a Triac or SCR (silicon
controlled rectifier) at various times
during each half-cycle of the 240VAC
mains waveform. If the Triac is trig
gered early in each half-cycle, the
power applied to the load is high and
if it is triggered late in each half-cycle, the power level is low. The term
“phase control” comes about because
the timing of the trigger pulses is varied with respect to the phase of the
mains sinewave.
The oscilloscope waveform of
Fig.1 shows the chopped waveform
from a phase controlled SCR when a
motor is driven at a slow speed. The
full sinewave is the 50Hz AC mains
voltage, while the chopped waveform
is the voltage applied to the motor. Its
RMS value is 147V.
Fig.2 shows the chopped waveform
from an SCR speed control at high and
low settings. At the high setting (lower
trace) the motor has 164V applied to it
while at the low setting (upper trace)
the motor has 144V applied.
Note that these examples show only
the positive half of the mains waveform being used, as is the normal case
with a phase controlled SCR circuit.
If the motor is to run at full speed,
it would need to be fed with both the
positive and negative half-cycles of
the 50Hz mains waveform. Normally
this is not possible with an SCR circuit
and while it is possible with a Triac,
it is difficult to achieve without a
complex circuit.
(We should note that full-wave
control circuits are used in some
washing machines using the Plessey
TDA1085 power control IC. This uses
tachometric feedback for a wide range
of speeds from a series-wound motor.)
Another big problem with conventional phase controlled circuits is
that the trigger pulse applied to the
Triac or SCR is very short and if this
corresponds with the time when the
brushes hit an open-circuit portion
of the commutator, no current will
flow and consequently, the motor
will miss out on a whole cycle of the
mains waveform. This problem is
more critical at low speed settings and
is one of the reasons for the “cogging”
behaviour referred to earlier.
Speed regulation
In theory, most phase controlled
SCR speed control circuits incorporate a form of feedback which is
designed to maintain the speed of the
motor under load. When the motor is
loaded, the back EMF (electromotive
force) produced by the motor drops
and the circuit compensates by triggering the SCR earlier in the mains
cycle. This helps to drive the motor
at the original speed.
In practice though, the back-EMF
generated by most series motors when
the SCR is not conducting is low or
nonexistent or it is produced too late
after the end of each half-cycle to
have a worthwhile effect on the circuit triggering in the next half-cycle.
So while the theory says good motor
speed regulation should be obtained,
in practice, it doesn’t happen in many
cases.
Pulse width modulation
The new SILICON CHIP speed control circuit uses Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) and a different feedback
method for speed regulation which
solves the above problems associated
with phase control.
Fig.3 and Fig.4 shows the voltage
waveforms applied to the motor at
high and low speed settings. What
happens is that we rectify the mains
voltage and then chop it up with a
high voltage IGBT (Insulated Gate
Bipolar Transistor) at a switching rate
of about 1.2kHz. For the high speed
setting the pulses applied to the motor
are relatively wide (Fig.3) while at the
low speed setting, the pulses are very
narrow (Fig.4).
Note that there are 12 pulses during each and every mains half-cycle
so that the motor does not miss out
on large blocks of current because of
erratic triggering. This means that the
motor operates very smoothly over the
whole of its speed range.
The speed regulation does not
rely upon motor back-EMF. Instead
it monitors the current through the
motor and adjusts the pulse width to
maintain the motor speed.
Block diagram
Fig.5 shows the basic circuit arrangement of the Motor Speed Controller. The 240VAC input waveform
is fed through a filter and full wave
Fig.3 (top) and Fig.4 (above) show the voltage waveforms applied to the motor
at high and low speed settings. The rectified mains voltage is chopped up with
a high voltage IGBT (Insulated Gate Bipolar Transistor) at a switching rate of
about 1.2kHz. For the high speed setting the pulses applied to the motor are
relatively wide (Fig.3) while at the low speed setting, the pulses are very narrow
(Fig.4). Note that there are 12 pulses during each and every mains half-cycle so
that the motor does not miss out on large blocks of current because of erratic
triggering. This means that the motor operates very smoothly over the whole of
its speed range.
rectified. The resulting positive-going
waveform is fed to one side of the motor, while the other motor terminal is
switched on and off via transistor Q1.
A triangle (ramp) waveform is
generated using IC1b and this is ap-
plied to comparator IC1a where it is
compared with the voltage level from
VR1, the speed control potentiometer.
If the speed voltage is high relative
to the triangle wave
form, then the
comparator will produce wide pulses
November 1997 21
Fig.5: the basic circuit
arrangement of the
Motor Speed
Controller. The 240VAC
input is full-wave
rectified and fed to one
side of the motor, while
the other motor terminal is switched on and
off via IGBT Q1. Q1 is
controlled by a
conventional PWM
circuit involving IC1,
IC2 & IC3.
at its output; a lower speed voltage
will reduce the pulse width. This
can be seen in the scope waveforms
of Fig.6.
The triangle waveform at the top
is compared to the speed voltage, the
horizontal voltage intersecting the triangle wave. The resulting lower trace
is the pulse width modulation signal
from the comparator. The comparator
output is fed to the gate driver (IC2)
which then drives the high voltage
IGBT (Q1).
Diode D1 is a fast recovery diode
to conduct the motor current when
Q1 is switched off while a snubber
across Q1 prevents excessive voltage
excursions on Q1.
Resistor R1 monitors the current
flow through the motor when Q1 is on
and the resulting voltage generated is
sampled by IC4, whenever Q1 is on.
IC3a amplifies the voltage from R1 and
applies it to the speed pot.
Thus an increase in motor current,
as the motor slows down, leads to an
increase in the output from IC3a to
increase the speed setting from VR1
and this results in an increase in the
voltage applied to the motor. Yes, this
is a positive feedback system and too
much positive feedback is not good
so the amount of feedback is fairly
critical to optimum circuit operation.
IC3b also monitors the voltage produced from R1 via IC4 and compares
it against a reference voltage. If the
voltage from R1 exceeds the reference
threshold, IC3b’s output goes low and
reduces the speed pot voltage via
diode D2. This reduces the voltage
applied to the motor and provides
current limiting.
Circuit description
Fig.6: These waveforms show the interaction of the triangle waveform and the
speed voltage. The triangle waveform at the top is compared to the speed
voltage, the horizontal voltage intersecting the triangle wave. The resulting
lower trace is the pulse width modulation signal from the comparator. The
comparator output is fed to the gate driver IC2 which then drives the high
voltage IGBT.
22 Silicon Chip
The circuit for the Motor Speed
Controller is shown in Fig.7. It
comprises four ICs, several diodes,
resistors and capacitors plus the high
voltage IGBT, Q1.
IC1b is the triangle waveform generator and it is essentially an oscillator
whereby the .018µF capacitor at pin
5 is charged and discharged via the
33kΩ resistor connected to the output at pin 12. The triangle or ramp
waveform across the capacitor has an
amplitude of about 5V peak-to-peak.
Comparator IC1a compares the
triangle waveform at pin 10 with the
speed voltage at pin 9, as set by VR1.
VR1 is the centre portion of a voltage
divider with a 1kΩ resistor connecting
Fig.7: the circuit uses a 32A 1200V avalanche-protected IGBT (insulated gate
bipolar transistor) as the switching element to the load. It is switched at 1.2kHz;
ie, 12 times in each half-cycle of the 50Hz 240VAC mains supply.
to the +15V rail and an 8.2kΩ resistor
to 0V. The speed voltage from VR1
is filtered with a 47µF capacitor to
prevent any sudden changes in level
and this voltage is monitored by the
inverting input (pin 9) of IC1a via a
1kΩ resistor.
The 1MΩ resistor between pin 9
and the pin 7 output provides positive
feedback to give a small amount of
hysteresis in the comparator action.
This is to prevent “hunting” in the
comparator output when changing
levels.
The pin 7 output of IC1a drives
buffers IC2a and IC2e. IC2a drives
three paralleled buffers, IC2b, 2c &
2d, which provide a high current
capability to charge and discharge
the gate of the high voltage IGBT Q1.
The gate is protected from excessive
Warning!
(1) The entire circuit of this
motor speed controller floats
at 240VAC and is potentially
lethal. Do not build it unless
you know exactly what you
are doing. DO NOT TOUCH
ANY PART OF THE CIRCUIT
WHILE IT IS PLUGGED INTO
A MAINS OUTLET and do not
operate the circuit outside its
metal case.
(2) This circuit is not suitable for induction motors or
shaded pole motors used in
fans – see panel.
drive voltage with ZD2, a 15V zener
diode. Normally the circuit should
have no way of providing excessive
gate drive however we blew a number
of devices during the development
process when attempting to monitor
gate drive levels with an oscilloscope.
So the 15V zener has been included
for insurance.
Three circuit features combine to
ensure that the IGBT can safely switch
high levels of current through the
motor load. First, there is a snubber
network comprising an 82Ω resistor
and .01µF capacitor connected in
series across the IGBT’s source and
drain and second, there is the fast
recovery diode D1. Third, there is a
275VAC metal oxide varistor (MOV)
connected across the output of the
bridge rectifier. These measures
combine to damp any spike voltages
which would otherwise occur every
time the IGBT switched off.
Finally, the specified IGBT is a
November 1997 23
The lid of the case must be independently earthed by running an extra lead
from a solder lug to the earth terminal on the mains socket – see Fig.8. Fit the
earth solder lug mounting screws with washers and locknuts so that they cannot
possibly come adrift.
Siemens BUP213 1200V 32A avalanche-protected device. We do not
recommend substitution of lower rated devices. During the development of
this project we ended up with quite a
graveyard of IGBTs and Mosfets which
should have been up to the task but
were found wanting.
Current monitoring
R1 is a used to monitor the current
flow through the motor and IGBT Q1.
The voltage developed across R1 is fed
through a low pass filter consisting of
a 10kΩ resistor and .001µF capacitor
to one side of a 4066 analog switch,
IC4. This is the sample and hold cir24 Silicon Chip
cuit and IC4 is switched on to sample
the voltage across R1 each time the
IGBT is switched on. Hence, IC4’s gate
signal comes from comparator IC1a
and is buffered by IC2e. The sampled
signal from R1 is held in the .047µF
capacitor at pin 4 of IC4.
The sampled voltage from IC4 is fed
to two op amps, IC3a & IC3b. IC3a amplifies the voltage by about 53 when
VR1 is set to maximum and 3.2 when
set to minimum. IC3a acts to vary the
DC level fed to comparator IC1a from
VR1 and thereby compensates for
speed variations in the motor.
IC3b acts as a comparator, comparing the sampled voltage from R1 with
a reference voltage at its pin 3. If the
current through R1 is excessive, the
output of IC3b goes low and pulls pin
9 of IC1a low via diode D2 and a 470Ω
resistor. This has the effect of greatly
reducing the motor drive voltage.
Power for the circuit is derived directly from the 240VAC mains. Fuse
F1 protects against shorts while the
.01µF capacitor in conjunction with
L1 & L2 prevents switching artefacts
from the IGBT and motor being radiated by the mains wiring.
BR1 is a bridge rectifier with a 600V
35A rating. BR1 provides the circuit
with the positive full-wave rectified
mains voltage and this is lightly filtered using a 0.1µF 250VAC capacitor.
Power for the low voltage circuitry
is derived via two series 4.7kΩ 5W
resistors, diode D3 and the 15V zener
diode ZD1. A 22µF capacitor across
Table 1: Capacitor Codes
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
❏
Value
IEC Code EIA Code
0.1µF 100n 104
.047µF 47n 473
.018µF 18n 183
.01µF 10n 103
.001µF 1n0 102
the 15V zener smooths the DC while
diode D3 prevents the capacitor from
discharging when the mains voltage
falls to below 15V every half cycle.
The result is a regulated 15V supply.
Construction
The Motor Speed Controller is constructed on a PC board which is coded
10311971 and measures 112 x 144mm.
It is housed in a diecast case measuring 171 x 121 x 55mm. The PC board
has circular cutouts to suit the case.
By the way, we do not recommend a
sheet metal case for this project. Since
all the circuitry inside is at 240VAC
mains potential, it is important that
the case is strong and rigid.
The complete wiring diagram is
shown in Fig.8. THE EARTHING
DETAILS OF THE CASE ARE MOST
IMPORTANT SINCE THE IGBT, FAST
RECOVERY DIODE D1 AND POTENTIOMETER VR1 ARE ALL AT MAINS
POTENTIAL YET ARE ATTACHED
TO THE CASE. If the mica washers
or the insulation of the potentiometer
were to break down, the case would
be live (ie, at 240VAC) if it was not
properly earthed.
For this reason, the case lid must
also be separately earthed, as shown in
Fig.8 because otherwise the lid could
be live if the potentiometer broke
down and the lid was not actually
attached to the case.
Begin construction by checking
the PC board against the published
pattern in Fig.11. There should not be
any shorts or breaks between tracks.
If there are, repair these as necessary.
If the cutouts in the sides of the PC
board have not been made, they should
be done before any components are
soldered on.
A large semicircular cutout is required on both the long sides of the
board, as well as notches to clear the
vertical slot channels in the sides of
the case. Also you will need to round
off the corners of the board. Make sure
Parts List
1 PC board, code 10311971, 112
x 144mm
1 metal diecast case, 171 x 121 x
55mm
1 front panel label, 100 x 70mm
1 Neosid iron powdered core, 17742-22 (L1,L2)
1 GPO mains power point (Clipsal
NO.16N or equivalent)
1 10A mains cord and plug
1 cordgrip grommet
3 solder lugs
1 10kΩ linear potentiometer (VR1)
1 500kΩ horizontal trimpot (VR2)
1 knob
2 3AG (or 2AG) PC mount fuse clips
1 10A 3AG fast blow fuse (or 2AG),
(F1)
2 3mm x 10mm screws, nuts & star
washers
4 4mm x 15mm screws, nuts and
star washers plus two locknuts
7 small cable ties
2 TO-218 mica insulating washers
OR 1 SIL-PAD 400 washer
2 TO-220 mica insulating washers
OR 1 SIL-PAD 400 washer
2 insulating bushes
1 500mm length of blue 10A
mains wire
1 150mm length of brown 10A
mains wire
1 1.5m length of 1mm enamelled
copper wire
1 1m length of 0.8mm enamelled
copper wire
1 140mm length of 0.8mm tinned
copper wire
1 26mm length of 15mm ID
heatshrink tubing
9 PC stakes
the PC board fits into the case before
starting assembly.
You can start the board assembly by
inserting the PC stakes and the links
now and then the resistors, using the
accompanying table for the colour
codes. The two 5W resistors should be
inserted so that they stand several millimetres above the PC board to allow
cooling since each will be dissipating
about 2.7W and will run hot.
When inserting diode D2 and the
zeners, take care with their orientation
and be sure to place each type in its
correct place. Install the ICs, taking
Semiconductors
1 LM319 dual comparator (IC1)
1 4050 hex CMOS buffers (IC2)
1 LM358 dual op amp (IC3)
1 4066 quad CMOS analog switch
(IC4)
1 Siemens BUP213 32A 1200V
IGBT (Q1)
1 STTA3006P SOD93 30A 600V
fast recovery diode (D1)
1 1N914, 1N4148 signal diode (D2)
1 1N4004 1A 400V diode (D3)
1 15V 1W zener diodes (ZD1)
1 15V 400mW zener diode (ZD2)
1 36MB60A 35A 600V bridge
rectifier (BR1)
1 S14K275 275VAC metal oxide
varistor (MOV)
Capacitors
1 47µF 16VW PC electrolytic
1 22µF 16VW PC electrolytic
1 10µF 16VW PC electrolytic
2 0.1µF 63V MKT polyester
1 0.1µF 250VAC X2 class MKT
polyester
1 .047µF 63V MKT polyester
1 .018µF 63V MKT polyester
2 .01µF 250VAC X2 class MKT
polyester
1 .001µF 63V MKT polyester
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 2.2MΩ
2 4.7kΩ
1 1MΩ
2 4.7kΩ 5W
1 470kΩ 1W 2 1kΩ
4 100kΩ
1 470Ω
1 33kΩ
1 390Ω
1 22kΩ
1 82Ω 1W
4 10kΩ
1 10Ω
1 8.2kΩ
care to orient them as shown on Fig.8.
D1 and Q1 are oriented with the metal
flange towards the edge of the PC board
and are located as high as possible
with their leads extending about 1mm
below the PC board.
The capacitors can be installed next.
The accompanying capacitor table
shows the various codes which may be
used to indicate the capacitance values. The electrolytic capacitors must
be oriented with the correct polarity.
L1 & L2 are wound on a single Neosid toroidal core as shown in Fig.9.
Make sure that there are an equal
November 1997 25
Fig.8: the complete wiring diagram of the Motor Speed Controller. Note
that the case and lid must be separately earthed, as shown here. Note
also that all parts of the circuit, including the terminals of VR1, float at
240VAC.
number of turns on each winding and
that they are wound in the directions
as shown. Insert the wire ends into the
PC board holes and secure the toroid
with two cable ties. The wire ends can
be soldered to the PC board using a hot
soldering iron to strip the self-fluxing
insulation on the wire.
26 Silicon Chip
The current monitoring resistor
is made from a 1m length of 0.8mm
enamelled copper wire which is
wound onto a 10mm former (3/8").
This may be a drill bit, pen or a wooden
dowel. Wind on about 26 turns then
remove the former and secure the
coil with insulation tape so that each
winding touches the adjacent one.
Bend the wire ends outward and place
a 26mm length of heatshrink tubing
over the coil and shrink it down with
a hot air gun. Re-bend the wire ends
and secure in place into the PC board
mounting holes.
The bridge rectifier (BR1) is attached
Fig.10: mounting details for the IGBT (Q1) and the fast recovery diode (D1).
Fig.9: winding details for the
input filter choke. Note that L1
and L2 are wound so that their
flux cancels in the toroid core.
must be bent so that the metal flange
of each device is in contact with the
case sides. Remove the PC board and
drill out these holes plus holes for the
cordgrip grommet and the earth lug
screw. Deburr the holes for D1 and
Q1 must be deburred with a larger
drill to prevent punch-through of the
insulating washers.
Attach the PC board to the case
with the supplied screws (yes, they
do come with the case) and secure D1
and Q1 to the case with a screw, nut,
insulating washer and insulating bush.
The arrangement for this is shown in
Fig.10. If you use mica washers apply
a smear of heatsink compound to the
mating surfaces before assembly and
use two for each device, to prevent
flash-over. Silicone heatsink washers
do not require heatsink compound and
if the 3.5kV-rated SIL-PAD 400 types
are used, one is enough for each device.
to the PC board with the (-) and adjacent AC terminal sitting over and
soldered to PC stakes. The other AC
terminal and the positive (+) terminal
are wired to the PC board pins using
10A 250VAC-rated hookup wire.
Fuse F1 is mounted in fuse clips
which attach to the PC board as shown.
We have catered for both 2AG and
3AG sizes. Clip the fuse into the clips
first, insert them into the PC board and
solder in position.
Mounting the hardware
Insert the PC board into the case and
mark the mounting hole positions for
diode D1, IGBT Q1 and bridge rectifier
BR1. Note that the leads for D1 and Q1
After mounting, check that the metal
tabs of the devices are indeed isolated
from the case by measuring the resistance with a multimeter.
The bridge rectifier (BR1) is secured
to the case with a 4mm screw, nut and
star washer. It does not require an
insulating washer between its body
and the case.
Mark out and drill the case lid for
the mains socket and potentiometer.
Attach the mains socket with the 4mm
screws and nuts and secure the pot
after the stick-on front panel label has
been affixed.
Solder the Active and Neutral wires
of the power cord to the stakes on the
PC board and secure the cord with a
cordgrip grommet. The earth connection on the mains socket should be
run to a solder lug using green/yellow
mains wire.
Similarly, solder the earth wire from
Table 2: Resistor Colour Codes
❏
No.
❏ 1
❏ 1
❏ 1
❏ 4
❏ 1
❏ 1
❏ 4
❏ 1
❏ 2
❏ 2
❏ 1
❏ 1
❏ 1
❏ 1
❏ 1
Value
2.2MΩ
1MΩ
470kΩ
100kΩ
33kΩ
22kΩ
10kΩ
8.2kΩ
4.7kΩ
1kΩ
470Ω
390Ω
82Ω
10Ω
1Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
red red green brown
brown black green brown
yellow violet yellow brown
brown black yellow brown
orange orange orange brown
red red orange brown
black red orange brown
grey red red brown
yellow violet red brown
brown black red brown
yellow violet brown brown
orange white brown brown
grey red black black
brown black black brown
brown black gold gold
5-Band Code (1%)
red red black yellow brown
brown black black yellow brown
yellow violet black orange brown
brown black black orange brown
orange orange black red brown
red red black red brown
black black red brown
grey red black brown brown
yellow violet black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
yellow violet black black brown
orange white black black brown
n/a
brown black black gold brown
brown black black silver brown
November 1997 27
the mains cord to a solder lug and
connect both solder lugs to the case
using a screw, nut and star washer.
An additional locknut should then
be fitted so that the earth lugs can not
possibly come loose. Note that the case
lid should also be earthed, via a third
solder lug, with a wire connected to
the earth terminal on the mains socket.
Wire up the potentiometer using
250VAC-rated hookup wire. Secure
the wiring with cable ties.
Testing
Fig.11: check your PC board by comparing it with this full-size etching
pattern before installing any of the parts.
MOTOR SPEED
CONTROLLER
WARNING!
Internal circuit
floats at 240VAC
SLOW
FAST
SUITABLE FOR SERIES MOTORS RATED UP TO 10A
<at> 240VAC OR 2400W.
Fig.12: this full-size front panel artwork can be used as a drilling template
for the front-panel speed control.
28 Silicon Chip
Before you power up the circuit, set
trimpot VR2 to the mid-position – this
setting should give good performance
with most motors. This done, check all
of your wiring very carefully against
the circuit of Fig.7 and the wiring dia
gram of Fig.8. Use your multimeter to
check that there is no leakage between
the Active and Neutral wires of the
power cord and the case. Also check
that the case and lid are connected to
the earth pin of the power cord. The
lid should be screwed to the case.
The safest and best way to test the
circuit operation is to connect a load.
This may be an ordinary incandescent lamp with a rating of between
(say) 40W and 100W. Apply power
and check that you can vary the
brightness of the lamp from zero up
to full brilliance. If that checks out
OK, connect up a drill or other power
tool and check that you can vary its
speed over the full range. If so, your
project is complete but some motors
may require adjustment of VR2 for best
speed regulation.
In practice, if VR2 is adjusted too
far anticlockwise, the motor will tend
to be overcompensated when loaded
and will actually speed up. It may
even hunt back and forth between
a fast and slow speed. Back off the
adjustment for VR2 for best results.
This must be done on a trial and error
basis, with the plug removed from the
mains outlet before each adjustment.
Replace the lid before reapplying power. If you are using a drill for example,
at fairly low speed, the motor should
not slow down by much as you put a
reasonable load on it.
Troubleshooting
If the speed controller did not work
when you applied power, it’s time to
don your troubleshooting hat.
Note that all of the circuit is connected to the 240VAC mains supply
Silicon Chip
Binders
REAL
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$11.95
PLUS P
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These binders will protect your copies of SILICON CHIP. They feature
heavy-board covers & are made
from a dis
tinctive 2-tone green
vinyl. They hold up to 14 issues &
will look great on your bookshelf.
The holes in the side of the case for D1 and Q1 must be deburred using an oversize drill to prevent punch-through of the insulating washers. After the devices
have been mounted, use your multimeter (set to a low ohms range) to confirm
that their metal tabs are indeed correctly isolated from the case.
should be able to vary the voltage at
pin 7 of IC1a by winding the speed pot
up and down. The same effect should
be observed at the gate of the IGBT.
If you have an oscilloscope you
should be able to observe the waveforms shown in Fig.6.
Should you wish to monitor any of
the other waveforms illustrated in this
article, the circuit will need to be powered from 240VAC again and will then
be completely live. If you connect an
oscilloscope under these conditions,
you cannot connect the earth terminal
of the probe to any part of the circuit.
In fact, the only really safe way to
monitor waveforms in the circuit when
it is powered is to use an oscilloscope
with fully floating differential inputs.
Two final points: if you are using
this controller with a high power tool
such as a large circular saw or 2HP
router, it will not give the same kick
when starting. Because of the current
limiting, the motor will take a few seconds to come up to full speed. To use
the appliance at full speed, it is better
not connect the Speed Controller at all.
Finally, note that this unit is not
suitable for use with devices such as
2400W heaters which will draw 10A
SC
continuously.
★ 80mm internal width
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gold-coloured lettering on spine
& cover
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Or fax (02) 9979 6503; or ring (02)
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card number.
Use this handy form
and is potentially lethal. This includes
the tabs of D1 and Q1, the terminals
of potentiometer VR1 and all other
parts. Do not touch any part of the
circuit when it is plugged into a mains
outlet. Always remove the plug from
the mains outlet before touching any
part of the circuit.
If you wish to work on or measure
voltages in any part of the circuit,
connect it via an isolating transformer.
Failing that, you can at least check that
there is approximately 15V present in
the circuit by connecting a multimeter
across the zener diode ZD1.
If you wish to check the circuit operation in detail, you should power it
from a low voltage power supply set
to provide 14V. At 15V, you run the
risk of blowing zener diode ZD1. Note
that the unit must not be plugged into
240VAC if the low voltage part of the
circuit is to be separately powered.
Assuming that you are powering
the unit from a 14V power supply,
you can use your multimeter to check
that +14V is present at pin 11 of IC1,
pin 1 of IC2, pin 8 of IC3 and pin 14
of IC4. You can also check the circuit
operation by measuring the average DC
levels around the circuit. For example,
if the circuit is working correctly, you
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November 1997 29
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
From soap to Teletext
It takes all sorts of people and their problems
to make a serviceman’s world. For one of my
customers, a misbehaving VCR assumed the
proportions of a major life threatening
emergency. One wonders how they would
react to the real thing.
Mrs Proby likes – no, that word is
too soft – loves, even adores, her soaps
(situation comedies for the uninitiated). She lives for them; is addicted
to them. In between watching and
recording them, she somehow makes
time for her family. But, inevitably,
disaster struck; the video recorder
wouldn’t work. It was a real emergency and it had to be fixed immediately.
The recorder was a Sony SLVX50AS and, on examination, the
30 Silicon Chip
problem was worse than she could
possibly have imagined – the recorder
had had the audacity to actually chew
up some of her beloved tapes and they
were ruined! I did my best to calm her
and tried to sound sincere as I pointed
out that worse things can happen in
life. But she was inconsolable. Eventually, I managed to convince her that
I would do my best to fix it as soon
as possible.
Afraid of what might happen if I
didn’t apply immediate first aid, I
rushed it into the operating theatre
and opened it. She had given me her
most precious tape to examine but
unfortunately it was in a real mess
and beyond repair.
Fortunately, I did have a manual for
the machine and I have reproduced a
couple of diagrams from it, particularly the section “VHS Mechanical
Adjustment Manual ll”, which should
help the reader follow the story.
Seized bearing
The reason for the damage became
obvious when a dummy tape was run.
The RVS guide (No.8) – the reverse
search arm – had almost seized on
its bearing and wouldn’t free the tape
to retract into its housing on eject.
I hoped I could free this with
out
removing it, as this would save time
because it would not then require re-
Fig.1: portion of the deck around the capstan/pinch
roller area in the Sony SLV-X50AS VCR. The RSV
guide is partially obscured and shown dotted.
alignment. And I was in luck – after a
squirt of CRC and some wiggling, the
arm moved freely.
After cleaning up any excess CRC
with alcohol, the tape went in and
out perfectly. I cleaned the heads
and tape path and initially thought
that that was the end of it; that I had
scored an easy one. But I was wrong.
On tape play there was considerable
curl on the lower edge of the tape, just
after the pinch roller, and the tape
was being mutilated as it went into
the cassette.
I removed the pinch roller, cleaned
and roughened the rubber, and tried
again. It was still no good so I fitted
a new pinch roller assembly. This
improved the situation enormously
but the tape was still curling a little
on the RVS guide. There was nothing
for it – I would have to remove, clean
and realign this guide according to the
instructions on page 25 of the manual.
The gist of this adjustment is the
need to move both the RVS guide
(No.8) and guide No.7 up or down
until the tape tracks with both guides
and with the nearby ACE head assembly. This adjustment is by means
of height adjuster nuts, one for each
guide.
The No.7 guide appeared to be
correct, so I concentrated on the RVS
guide. Unfortunately, the only adjustment setting which brought the
alignment close to correct was to have
the nut screwed hard down. This not
only failed to cure the problem but it
Fig.2: side view of the RVS (reverse search) arm,
showing its relationship to guide roller No.7 in
the Sony SLV-X50AS. Note the adjuster nuts.
meant that, on eject, the arm jammed
on a gear just below it.
There was only one thing for it. I
had to replace the arm – but where
could I get one in a hurry? This part
does not usually need to be replaced.
After ringing around, I found a colleague who had one and would let
me have it in view of the emergency.
I dashed into the ambulance and shot
around to pick up the donor organ.
Secondhand shop
My colleague, Jim, is the senior
technician at a busy sec
ondhand
shop. He spends his days growing
white hair from refurbishing TV sets
and video recorders, which they purchase from all and sundry. He was in
a talkative mood when I
arrived and was muttering
rude words about two
cranky TV sets which had
defied all his efforts to
repair them. It had got to
the stage where he was fed
up and was planning to
send them off to auction.
A cursory glance show
ed them to be low-cost
generic TV sets made
in China but both were
modern and looked good.
I stupidly volunteered to
have a look at them if he
would care to stick them
in the back of the “ambulance”. I then shot back
to the operating theatre
and transplanted the new part into
the Sony vide recorder.
This time, realigning the arm produced the desired effect, the tape now
running through the guides perfectly.
I carefully examined the old arm and
pinch roller but could not detect any
imperfections. The arm, which is a
chrome-plated steel rod embedded in
a diecast aluminium block, didn’t look
the slightest degree bent or distorted.
However, it only needs a minute
change to cause problems like these.
Anyway, I pronounced that the patient would live and so undoubtedly
would Mrs Proby. But I did issue her
with a prescription of sorts, advising
her to purchase some new tapes and
ditch the old ones (if she can bring
November 1997 31
Serviceman’s Log – continued
herself to do it). Anyway, she thanked
me most profusely; I thought she was
going to call me Doctor but she didn’t.
Jim’s TV sets
When things were quieter, I decided to have a go at Jim’s TV sets. The
first was a 51cm Palsonic 5138 with
remote control, twin speakers, and
Fast Text – the Palsonic version of
Teletext. The fault ticket read, “No
picture, no sound”.
Jim thought that the fault lay in the
Teletext section but he didn’t have a
circuit diagram. So my first step was
to order a manual from N & G Enterprises. The second set was an Aiko
Super
vision VST 60, model 2801,
as sold by Cumberland TV. This was
also dead and so I ordered a manual
for this as well.
A week later I received photocopied
circuits for both models. The Palsonic
circuit looked very similar to a Chinese chassis used in Teac and some
other sets.
At switch on, the LED on the front
32 Silicon Chip
panel lit up and a telltale 15,625kHz
whistle suggested that the line output
stage was working. The remote control
had no effect but turning up the screen
control (G2) gave a full-screen faint
blank raster.
With no sound or picture, I started
by measuring the various voltage rails.
Most are not marked on the circuit but
in any case, they seemed a little high.
Shrunk heatshrink on an electrolytic
capacitor in the power supply (C514,
47µF/50V) pointed to the likely culprit and I immediate replaced it to
prevent further damage.
I was now getting 130V, 20V, 16V
and 8V on the various rails which
seemed reasonable but there was no
16V on pin 3 of connector XT01 on
the main board, which mates with
XT01 on the Teletext board. This
feeds NT01, a 12V IC regulator on the
Teletext board.
Following the 16V rail back from
pin 1 of XT101 on the main board,
I ran into a 10Ω 1W resistor (R536)
which is not marked on the circuit
diagram. This resistor was open
circuit.
Replacing it restored the sound
but there was still no picture or onscreen displays. The voltages on the
CRT socket didn’t provide much help,
except that the cathodes were higher
than expected.
I reached for the CRO probe, planning to trace the luminance (Y) signal
through to the picture tube. However,
this was not as straightforward as
in most sets. Whereas most Teletext
decoders are designed as plug-in
optional extras and the set will work
without them, this set diverts the colour difference and luminance signals
through the decoder. Also, the circuit
is somewhat misleading as to what
plug fits into what socket.
I was able to trace the Y signal into
the Teletext card at connector XT03
(pin 1) but nothing seemed to be
coming out on XT02; or rather, on a Y
pin adjacent to XT02. From there, the
path goes to X401 on the CRT board.
This confirmed that the decoder
could not be bypassed and so would
have to be fixed. However, I didn’t
fancy rushing in and replacing suspect ICs, particularly as they cost, on
average, about $30 each.
It was time for some help. I phoned
N & G Enterprises and was informed
that the decoder gave very few problems – the only thing they were aware
of was the 27MHz crystal. I checked
this and could find nothing wrong but
I removed a lot of black gunk that had
been coated over its pins.
A red herring
By now, this line of attack was
looking like a red herring. I went
back to the CRT socket and followed
up on my earlier observation that the
tube cathode voltages appeared to be
high. It didn’t take long to discover
that there was no voltage on the bases
of video drive transistors V402, V405
and V409, although voltage was present on their emitters. The base bias is
supplied via R403, a 120kΩ resistor
connected to the 180V rail, and this
resistor was very high. Replacing it
restored the picture completely.
So problem solved but one part of
this investigation has me puzzled.
When checking with the CRO, I could
swear I saw luminance and colour
difference signals going into the Teletext board but nothing coming out to
the CRT board. But now there were
Fig.3: the CRT board in the Palsonic 5138, showing the three video driver
transistors, V402, V405 and V409.
signals coming out of the board after
I had replaced R403. I can see no correlation between the failure of R403
and the lack of signal into X401 from
the decoder. I even removed R403 and
rechecked with the CRO and there was
still plenty of signal.
And by what process had I concluded that it was the Teletext card
that was faulty? Well, in hindsight, I
cannot explain it. Jim had voiced the
thought that it might be in the Teletext
section, so perhaps I had allowed this
to lead me astray.
The remote control needed a new
rubber keypad and after alignment,
the picture was good and all “Fast
Text” functions checked out OK.
Destructive overload
Jim’s second set filled me with
dread when I found that the power
supply had suffered a severe destructive overload and a wide range of parts
had been affected. Some parts, apparently damaged, had been replaced,
some had been partially disconnected,
and some were missing altogether.
I refitted the disconnected parts and
replaced all the missing ones. Then I
disconnected it from the main chassis,
substituted a 100W globe as a load
on the 136V rail, and removed fuse
FU502 in this line. I applied 240V AC
power via a 200W globe and a Variac,
connected meters everywhere and
switched on. The 200W globe lit to
full brilliance immediately, indicating
a short circuit.
Switching transistor V501 and
diode VD504 in the bridge were both
short circuit and were replaced. When
I switched it on again, the power
supply started to squeal as I turned
the Variac up to around 100V and
was obviously under stress. There
was no output.
I examined the circuit very closely.
All the small electrolytics had been
replaced and so had R509, a 56kΩ
resistor coming off the positive rail
from the bridge. All the high value
resis
tors measured OK. The small
transistors had all been replaced with
substitutes but even the discovery that
transistor V503, part of a Darlington
pair, was fitted the wrong way around
didn’t solve the problem.
With the CRO connected, the
waveform on the collector of V501
consisted of a series of positive spikes,
suggesting that the mark space ratio
was indicating a heavy load. I didn’t
twig to the significance of this immediately and put it down to the low
input (100V) to which I had set the
Variac.
To cut a long story short, I replaced
V504, C519, C521, V505, VD513 and
many more parts around this area
before the penny dropped. There was
no ringing in the waveform indicating,
on the one hand, that there were no
shorted turns in the chopper trans
former (T503) but that there was a
short circuit somewhere across the
secondary.
All the diodes measured OK out of
circuit but there was something wrong
around diode VD518 and it didn’t
take long to find that C525, a 470µF
200V electrolytic across pins 19 & 21
of T503, was short circuit. Replacing
this and turning up the Variac restored
everything. Now for the acid test – I
reconnected the main chassis to the
power supply, replaced fuse FU502
and switched on.
Unfortunately, it still wouldn’t
work. A quick check soon showed
that there was 136V on the collector
of V303, the horizontal output transistor, but nothing on the collector of
V302 which drives it. The reason for
this wasn’t hard to find – the primary
winding of transformer T301, which
couples these together, was open,
probably due to corrosion from the
black gunk all around it.
Ordering and fitting a replacement
transformer fixed the final problem
and the set burst into life at last. Jim
was pleasantly surprised and I think
only he fully appreciated the time I
spent going up so many blind alleys
before tracking down the various
SC
faults.
November 1997 33
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au
Silicon Chip Bookshop
Guide to
Satellite TV
Installation, Reception & Repair. By
Derek J. Stephenson. First published
1991, reprinted 1997 (4th edition).
This is a practical guide on the installation
and servicing of satellite television
equipment. The coverage of the subject
is extensive, without excessive theory or
mathematics. 383 pages, in hard cover
at $55.00.
Guide to TV & Video
Technology
By Eugene Trundle. First published
1988. Second edition 1996.
Eugene Trundle has written for many
years in Television magazine and his latest book is right up date on TV and video
technology. 382 pages, in paperback, at
$39.95.
Servicing Personal
Computers
By Michael Tooley. First published 1985.
4th edition 1994.
Computers are prone to failure from a
number of common causes & some that
are not so common. This book sets out
the principles & practice of computer
servicing (including disc drives, printers
& monitors), describes some of the latest
software diagnostic routines & includes
program listings. 387 pages in hard cover
at $75.00.
The Art of Linear
Electronics
By John Linsley Hood. Published 1993.
This is a practical handbook from one of
the world’s most prolific audio designers,
with many of his designs having been
published in English technical magazines
over the years. A great many practical
circuits are featured – a must for anyone
interested in audio design. 336 pages, in
paperback at $55.00.
Digital Audio & Compact
Disc Technology
Produced by the Sony Service Centre
(Europe). 3rd edition, published 1995.
Prepared by Sony’s technical staff, this
is the best book on compact disc technology that we have ever come across.
It covers digital audio in depth, including
PCM adapters, the Video8 PCM format
and R-DAT. If you want to understand digital audio, you need this reference book.
305 pages, in paperback at $69.00.
Power Electronics
Handbook
Components, Circuits & Applications, by
F. F. Mazda. Published 1990.
Previously a neglected field, power electronics has come into its own, particularly
in the areas of traction and electric vehicles. F. F. Mazda
is an acknowledged authority on the
subject and he writes mainly on the many
uses of thyristors & Triacs in single and
three phase circuits. 417 pages, in soft
cover at $59.95.
Surface Mount Technology
By Rudolph Strauss. First published
1994.
This book will provide informative reading
for anyone considering the assembly of
PC boards with surface mounted devices.
Includes chapters on wave soldering,
reflowsoldering, component placement,
cleaning & quality control. 361 pages, in
hard cover at $99.00.
Radio Frequency
Transistors
Principles & Practical Applications. By
Norm Dye & Helge Granberg. Published
1993.
This book strips away the mysteries
of RF circuit design. Written by two
Motorola engineers, it looks at RF transistor fundamentals before moving on to
specific design examples; eg, amplifiers,
oscillators and pulsed power systems.
Also included are chapters on filtering,
impedance matching & CAD. 235 pages,
in hard cover at $95.00.
Electronics Engineer’s
Reference Book
Edited by F. F. Mazda. First published
1989. 6th edition.
This just has to be the best reference
book available for electronics engineers.
Provides expert coverage of all aspects
of electronics in five parts: techniques,
physical phenomena, material &
components, electronic design, and
applications. The sixth edition has been
expanded to include chapters on surface
mount technology, hardware & software
design, semi-custom electronics & data
communications. 63 chapters, soft cover
at $125.00.
Audio Electronics
By John Linsley Hood. Published 1995.
This book is for anyone involved in
designing, adapting and using analog
and digital audio equipment. Covers
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Return to: Silicon Chip Publications, PO Box 139, Collaroy NSW, Australia 2097.
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tape recording, tuners & radio receivers,
preamplifiers, voltage amplifiers, power
amplifiers, the compact disc & digital
audio, test & measurement, loudspeaker
crossover systems and power supplies.
351 pages, in soft cover at $55.00.
Understanding
Telephone Electronics
By Stephen J. Bigelow.
Third edition published 1997 by Butterworth-Heinemann.
This is a very useful text for anyone
wanting to become familiar with the
basics of telephone technology. The 10
chapters explore telephone fundamentals,
speech signal processing, telephone line
interfacing, tone and pulse generation,
ringers, digital transmission techniques
(modems & fax machines) and much
more. Ideal for students. 367 pages, in
soft cover at $49.95.
Video Scrambling & Descrambling For Satellite & Cable TV
By Rudolf F. Graf & William Sheets. NOW IN
STOCK
First published 1987.
This is an easy-to-understand book
for those who want to scramble and
unscramble video signals for their own
use or just want to learn about the
techniques involved. It begins with the
basic techniques, then details the theory
of video encryption and decryption. It
also provides schematics and details for
several encoder and decoder projects, has
a chapter of relevant semiconductor data
sheets, covers three relevant US patents
on the subject of scrambling and concludes with a chapter of technical data.
246 pages, in soft cover at $50.00.
✓ Title
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
Price
Guide to Satellite TV
$55.00
Servicing Personal Computers
$90.00
Video Scrambling & Descrambling
$50.00
The Ar t Of Linear Electronics
$70.00
Digital Audio & Compact Disc Technology
$90.00
Radio Frequency Transistors
$95.00
Guide to TV & Video Technology
$55.00
Electronic Engineer's Reference Book
$160.00
Audio Electronics
$75.00
Understanding Telephone Electronics
$55.00
Postage: add $5.00 per book. Orders over $100
are post free within Australia. NZ add $10.00
per book; elsewhere add $15 per book.
TOTAL $A
November 1997 37
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions from
readers are welcome and will be paid for at standard rates.
Single supply version of
LM3876/LM3886 modules
The LM3876 50W amplifier
module published in March
1994 and the stereo 60W/
channel LM3886 amplifier
module published in February 1995 have proved to be
very popular and reliable.
However, a number of readers
restoring older amplifiers have
asked about the possibility of
producing single supply versions. The reason for this that
most solid state commercial
amplifiers produced before
about 1980 used single rail
amplifiers.
The method for running
any amplifier module of this
sort from a single supply rail is to
provide a voltage divider to produce
a half-supply input bias, a lower impedance “half supply” reference for
the normal amplifier input ground
and a large electrolytic capacitor at the
output to block the resulting half-DC
supply from the loudspeaker.
Square wave pulse
generator
Originally designed as part of
a calibration circuit for EMI noise
Changing the
Neon Tube Modulator
A number of readers have asked
us how to modify the Neon Tube
Modulator which was published
in the May 1997 issue so that the
bass notes actually cause the neon
tube to light. This is the opposite
modulation to the existing circuit.
The simplest solution is to replace Q2, the BD140 control tran38 Silicon Chip
The revised circuit shows the LM
3886 but the same circuit components
can be used with the LM3876. A voltage divider consisting of 91kΩ and
100kΩ resistors provides a nominal
“half supply” to bias the non-inverting input (pin 10) via a 75kΩ resistor.
Also fed from this voltage divider is
emitter follower Q1 which provides
the ground reference at pin 7.
While it may be possible to install
the additional input bias components
on the PC board, the 4700µF output
coupling capacitor will probably need
to be mounted off the board.
SILICON CHIP
spectrum measurements, this circuit
should prove useful as a general purpose square wave generator.
It generates square wave output
signals at a calibrated frequency
selectable from 0.5Hz to 100kHz in
1-2-5 steps. The frequency at each
step is variable (uncalibrated) over a
range of approximately 5:1, giving a
total frequency range from 0.5Hz to
over 500kHz (around 700kHz in the
prototype).
The frequency stability appears to
be better than 0.5% at any calibrated
position, although this has not been
tested over the full operating temperature range.
IC1 and associated components
form a square wave oscillator operating in the range from 200kHz to over
1MHz. This is divided by counters
IC2 and IC3 by one of eight selectable
ratios in a 1-2-5 sequence as set by
diode matrix D1-D17 and switch S2.
The frequency is further divided by
IC5 by 2 or 2024, depending upon
sistor, with a BD139 and swap the
emitter and collector leads. With
this modification the time that the
tube is illumi
nated may not be
long enough. This on-time can be
lengthened by increasing the 150kΩ
resistor, the increase being directly
proportional to the resistor value. If
necessary the 0.1µF capacitor from
pin 6 of IC1 can also be increased
to 0.22µF or 0.47µF.
SILICON CHIP
the output selected by S1b. IC4b-IC4d
pass the selected frequency to output
buffer IC6.
As shown, there are two outputs: (1)
a low impedance 50Ω output and (2)
a high impedance 600Ω output, both
providing 12V peak-to-peak with no
load. Typically, one output might be
used as the “main” output while the
other might be used as a reference for
an oscilloscope display or fed to a
frequency counter. If desired, an adjustable attenuator could be provided
between the output buffer (IC6) and
either of the output sockets.
The output frequency is calibrated
in either “Hz” or “kHz”, depending
on the setting of switch S1. Variable capacitor C2 is used to adjust
the frequency in the “kHz” range to
compensate for the fact that the division ratios obtainable with IC5 at the
selected outputs are not in an exact
1000:1 ratio.
To calibrate, first set S1 to “Hz” and
S2 to “100”. Set VR1 to its minimum
frequency position and adjust VR2
for an output frequency of 100.0Hz.
Next, set S1 to the “kHz” position and
adjust C2 for an output frequency of
100.0kHz.
H. Nacinovich,
Gulgong, NSW. ($60)
November 1997 39
This Cable and Wiring
Tester has a row of
four LEDs to indicate
the condition of a pair
of wires: open circuit,
short, reversed and
good. A diode is hooked
across the far end of the
wire pair to assist the
test which is done
automatically as soon
as you press the button.
By LEON WILLIAMS
Here’s an easy to build and simple to use tester
that will prove indispensable to anyone
involved in the installation or maintenance of
cables or wiring systems. Small enough to carry
in a pocket, the tester employs four LEDs to
speedily indicate the health of a pair of wires.
Tracing faults in cables, especially
those in large buildings can be very
difficult if you are working on your
own. If you have a partner and some
form of communication, you can use a
multimeter set to measure resistance at
your end while you get your partner to
apply a short circuit and then remove
it. With the short removed the meter
should show an infinite resistance,
and with the short applied a low
resistance.
This is obviously difficult on your
own, as you would have to travel
between ends to place the short and
remove it in between taking readings
40 Silicon Chip
with the meter. Thankfully there’s an
easier way.
Diode testing
A technique that has been used for a
long time to test cable pairs is to place
a diode across the A and B wires of the
pair at the remote end. When a meter
is placed across the pair at the local
end, a low resistance will be obtained
with the meter leads connected one
way and a very high (ideally infinite)
re
sistance with the leads reversed.
This happens because the diode only
passes current in one direction; ie,
when the anode is more positive than
the cathode by about 0.7V.
A big advantage of the diode test is
that fault conditions such as a short or
open circuit can be diagnosed quickly.
If a pair has a short circuit somewhere
along its length, a low resistance will
be seen when the meter is connected
either way. Conversely an open circuit
will show an infinite resistance with
the meter connected either way.
The diode test will also show a
reversed pair; ie, where the A and B
wires get crossed along the way, as
the low resist
ance/high resistance
results will be opposite to those for a
good pair. This goes to prove that the
best ideas are sometimes the simplest.
Fig.1 illustrates the four common pair
combinations and the results obtained.
Easy to use
Carrying around an expensive
multimeter, continuously turning it
on and off and reversing the leads to
test pairs is tedious. With the Cable
and Wiring tester all you have to do is
connect the two test leads to the pair
under test and press the Test button.
The tester will automatically test the
pair and display the result on one of
four LEDs.
The orange LED (O) will flash to indicate an open circuit and the yellow
LED (S) will flash if the pair is short
circuit. A pair that is reversed will
cause the red LED (R) to flash, while
a pair that is in good condition will
cause the green LED (G) to flash. Of
course you will need to connect the
diode at the other end of the pair you
are testing.
Circuit description
The Cable and Wiring tester works
just like the manual diode testing
shown in Fig.1 but it does it automatically in two phases before it displays
the result. I will refer to these as phase
1 and phase 2. Fig.2 shows the circuit.
An oscillator is formed with IC2c,
one section of a 40106 hex Schmitt
trigger inverter, a 330kΩ resistor and
a 0.22µF capacitor. It produces a
square wave output with a frequency
of about 20Hz. IC2d, a 100kΩ resistor
and a 0.1µF capacitor form a delay
circuit. The output at pin 10 of IC2d
is a delayed and inverted replica of
the output from IC2c.
The reason for the delay circuit is
to separate the sample and display
pulses from the unstable periods when
the analog switches are swapping the
Fig.1: this series of the diagrams illustrates the method of testing a cable pair
with a multimeter and a diode connected to the far end. The Cable and Wiring
Tester runs through these tests automatically.
polarity of the line. The oscillator
controls the overall operation of the
tester and when its output is low, it
is in phase 1, and when its output is
high, it is in phase 2.
In phase 1, analog switch IC1a
connects wire A of the pair to pin 1
of IC2a, while IC1b connects wire B
to ground. If the pair is good (ie, not
reversed) and the diode is connected
Fig.2: the Cable and Wiring Tester works by alternately applying DC voltage to a cable pair in one direction
and then the other. The four possible conditions are indicated by the LEDs.
November 1997 41
Fig.3 (left): the component layout for
the PC board. Take care to ensure
that all polarised parts are correctly
orientated.
Fig.4 (below): this is the actual size
artwork for the PC board.
ent on the wires being tested, most
likely in the form of static charges,
each input is protected with a series
680Ω resistor and a 9.1V zener diode.
A .001µF capacitor is also connected
between the two inputs to shunt any
RF signals that might otherwise be
picked up by the wires under test.
The tester operates from a standard
9V battery which should last quite a
long time. Note that the Test switch
is also the power switch and is connected in the negative supply lead
instead of the positive supply lead
as is normal practice. This was done
simply because it made the PC board
layout easier.
Construction
with its cathode to wire A, no current
will flow through this circuit and
pin 1 of IC2a will be pulled high by
the 4.7kΩ resistor. If the pair is short
circuit or the diode is connected in
reverse, current will flow and pin 1 of
IC2a will be pulled to ground.
Assuming that all is well, pin 2 of
IC2a will be low. IC2f, a 33kΩ resistor
and a 0.1µF capacitor form a mono
stable which produces a narrow negative pulse when the output of IC2d
goes high, which is only within phase
1. The negative pulse from IC2f closes
analog switch IC1c and charges the
0.22µF “memory” capacitor connected
to pin 12 of IC1c to the voltage present
at pin 2 of IC2a.
When the pulse ends, the gate
opens but the charge on the capacitor
remains as the only discharge path is
via the very high input impedance of
inverter IC2b. The high output of IC2b
is applied directly to the B input of
the 4028 BCD-to-decimal decoder IC3.
During phase 2 the states of IC1a
& IC1b are reversed and wire A is
connected to ground while wire B
is connected to pin 1 of IC2a. With a
good pair, current will flow through
42 Silicon Chip
the circuit and pin 1 of IC2a will be
pulled to ground. The output (pin 2)
of IC2a is connected directly to the A
input of IC3. IC2e, a 0.1µF capacitor
and a 100kΩ resistor form a monostable which produces a positive-going
pulse when the output of IC2d goes
low, which is only during phase 2.
This pulse is applied to the C input
of IC3 and effectively becomes an
enable input, as with this input low
none of the LEDs can be selected. One
of the LEDs will be turned on when
the C input is high, depending on the
state of the A and B inputs. Note that
the D input is permanently connected to ground. With a good pair, both
A and B will be high. The LEDs are
only turned on for the period of the
pulse from IC2e which has the added
benefit that the current drain from the
batteries is less than if a LED was on
constantly.
In summary, the result of phase 1 is
stored in the memory capacitor until
the result of phase 2 is available, at
which point they are both applied to
the decoder and the respective LED
is turned on.
Since high voltages could be pres-
The Cable and Wiring Tester is
mounted in a small plastic case with a
row of four LEDs and a pushbutton on
top. At one end is a 3.5mm jack socket
to enable connection to a pair of wires.
Pressing the button flashes one of the
four LEDs depending in the test condition: Open (Orange); Short (Yellow);
Reversed (Red); and Good (green).
All the components apart from
the test socket are mounted on a single-sided PC board. Fig.3 shows the
wiring diagram. Begin construction
by soldering in the five tinned copper wire links, ensuring that they are
straight and lay flat on the board. Follow this with the resistors, the zener
diodes and the PC stakes.
Next, solder in the capacitors, remembering that the 22µF capacitor
is polarised and must be inserted the
right way. The integrated circuits can
be installed next, ensuring that they
are in the correct way. These are CMOS
types and can be destroyed by static
electricity, so earth yourself and take
care not to handle them too much.
The LEDs are installed with the
top of each LED 25mm above the PC
board. They should protrude slightly
from the lid of the case when it is fitted. Similarly, the pushbutton switch
is installed in a vertical position by
soldering its tags to two PC stakes.
Again, the switch should be at the
correct height with the case closed.
Install the PC board in the bottom
case half with four self-tapping screws.
If you find it won’t sit properly, you
can lightly file the edge of the board
or cut out the small plastic tabs inside
the edge of the case. Drill a hole in the
centre of the top endplate and mount
the 3.5mm test socket. Place the two
The four LEDs and the pushbutton switch are stood off the board so that they protrude through the lid of the case.
end plates in the slots on the bottom
half of the case. The bottom half has
four holes for the case mounting
screws while the top half has threaded
brass inserts.
Solder two wires from the socket to
the PC stakes on the PC board. Now
solder in the battery clip and trim the
length of the wires so that they sit
neatly with the battery positioned as
shown in the photographs. You may
find it necessary to cut off some of the
plastic tabs on the inside of the top half
to clear the battery clip when the two
halves are screwed together. Drill the
four holes for the LEDs and for the test
switch in the top half of the case. The
positions for these can be quite easily
found by firstly making measurements
with a ruler and then marking with a
pencil before drilling.
The test lead is made from a short
length of figure-8 cable. The type used
in the prototype was coloured red and
black. I soldered the red A wire to the
centre pin of the 3.5mm plug and the
Parts List
1 PC board, code 04411971, 51 x
88mm
1 plastic case, 120 x 60 x 30mm
1 3.5mm mono phono socket
1 3.5mm mono phono plug
2 small black alligator clips
2 small red alligator clips
1 normally open pushbutton switch
6 PC stakes
1 9 volt battery clip
4 No. 4 x 6mm self-tapper screws
1 5mm red LED (LED1)
1 5mm yellow LED (LED2)
1 5mm orange LED (LED3)
1 5mm green LED (LED4)
Semiconductors
1 4053 triple analog selector (IC1)
1 40106 or 74C14 hex Schmitt
trigger (IC2)
1 4028 BCD-to-decimal decoder
(IC3)
2 9.1V 1W zener diodes
(ZD1,ZD2)
1 1N4004 diode (remote test
diode)
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 330kΩ
1 4.7kΩ
2 100kΩ
6 680Ω
1 33kΩ
Capacitors
1 22µF 16VW electrolytic
2 0.22µF MKT polyester
3 0.1µF MKT polyester
1 .01µF MKT polyester
1 .001µF MKT polyester
Miscellaneous
Tinned copper wire, hookup
wire, figure-8 cable, small piece
of scrap stripboard, heatshrink
tubing
Resistor Colour Codes
❏
No.
❏ 1
❏ 2
❏ 1
❏ 1
❏ 6
Value
330kΩ
100kΩ
33kΩ
4.7kΩ
680Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
orange orange yellow brown
brown black yellow brown
orange orange orange brown
yellow violet red brown
blue grey brown brown
5-Band Code (1%)
orange orange black orange brown
brown black black orange brown
orange orange black red brown
yellow violet black brown brown
blue grey black black brown
November 1997 43
together. Now clip the tester leads to
the diode leads, with the red A wire
clips connected together and the black
B wire clips connected together. Press
the Test button and verify that the “G”
LED flashes.
Now reverse the connection to the
diode leads, press the Test button and
check that the “R” LED flashes. Once
you are happy with the testing, screw
the case together with the four screws
supplied, checking that the drilled
holes line up with the LEDs and switch
without placing stress on them.
Using the tester
The basic operation of the tester
should be quite apparent. Simply connect the diode to the remote end with
the red clip connected to the A wire,
the tester to the local end with the red
clip connected to the A wire, press
the Test button and monitor the LEDs.
Multiple wire cables
Another view of the prototype Cable & Wiring Tester. Power comes from an
internal 9V battery.
black B wire to the ground pin. To finish the lead, solder a red alligator clip
to the red wire and a black alligator
clip to the black wire.
The diode assembly can be made
next. It simply comprises a diode
soldered to a length of figure-8 cable
as before. Its anode is soldered to the
black wire and the cathode to the
red wire. I used a scrap piece of strip
board to give the assembly some mechanical strength and then covered it
with heatshrink sleeving to prevent
accidental shorting. The red alligator
clip is soldered to the red wire and
the black alligator clip to the black
44 Silicon Chip
wire. Finally, fit a good 9V battery
into the case.
Testing
With the assembly complete, press
the test switch briefly and check that
the “O” LED flashes at about 20Hz. If
it does, you can proceed with the rest
of the testing. If it doesn’t work, have
a good look at the assembly again and
check it for construction errors.
Plug the test lead into the socket
and connect the two alligator clips
together. Press the Test button and
check that the “S” LED flashes to
indicate that the wires are shorted
So far this article has referred to just
testing a pair of wires, such as those
in a telephone cable or Local Area
Network (LAN) cabling. However,
the tester can be used to test cables
with multiple wires even if they are
not paired.
The simplest way is to select one
of the wires as a common A wire and
then progress through the other wires
as a second B wire. If you are working
on cable that has, for example three
pairs, you might construct a multiple
diode lead with three diodes and six
leads so that you could check all the
pairs at one time.
Some cabling systems use a special socket to terminate a multiple
pair cable. An example of this is an
RJ45 socket used in modern building
cabling where four pairs provide computer and telephone connections at
one socket. A plug could be adapted to
hold four diodes and plugged into the
remote socket while the tester could
be plugged into a mating socket at the
local end.
A switch would need to be incorporated in the tester leads to select the
pair to be tested. Finally the tester can
be used as a general continuity tester
to test diodes, speakers, audio/video
cables, etc. The tester will indicate a
short circuit with about 2kΩ or less
placed across the test leads but this
will vary from unit to unit and is dependent mainly on the characteristics
SC
of the ICs used.
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Silicon Chip Publications
PO Box 139, Collaroy 2097
No postage stamp required in Australia
November 1997 53
By RICK WALTERS
Regulated Supply
For Darkroom Lamps
Don’t let variations in the mains
supply ruin your photographic prints.
This regulated power supply will keep
the halogen lamp in your enlarger at
its correct colour temperature.
Maintaining an enlarger lamp at
its correct colour temperature is important when doing darkroom work,
especially if you expect to obtain consistent results. In particular, the colour
temperature of the lamp is critical for
colour prints, although you can often
get away with small variations for
black and white prints.
54 Silicon Chip
Unfortunately, many a darkroom
session can be made frustrating by
small variations in the lamp output
due in turn to variations in the mains
supply. These variations are quite
normal and can be due, for example,
to heaters or air-conditioners cycling
on and off or to some other cause.
When this occurs, the lamp output
changes and this affects both its colour temperature and exposure times.
To overcome this problem, some readers have asked us to design a mains
stabiliser but these are expensive
and impractical for the hobbyist to
construct.
This Halogen Lamp Supply will
effectively do the same job at a fraction
of the cost. It provides a well-regulated
12V supply for the halogen lamp in the
enlarger and varies its output by just
2mV for mains input voltages ranging
from 195VAC to 280VAC.
The unit is also very easy to operate.
The front panel carries just a mains
rocker switch, a power indicator LED
and a toggle switch to turn the lamp
on and off. Alternatively, the enlarger
lamp can be turned on and off via a
remote switch connected to a terminal
block on the rear panel.
Fig.1: the circuit is based on a TL494 PWM controller (IC1). This controls the output voltage by
varying its output pulse width at pins 9 and 10.
The circuit (see Fig.1) is basically
a regulated 12V power supply capable of supplying up to 10A. It uses a
mains transformer to feed a full-wave
bridge rectifier and this then supplies
an unregulated filtered DC voltage to
a switching regulator circuit.
In this type of regulator, the output
switching devices (power Mosfes) are
either on or off and so their losses are
quite low. In fact, the bridge rectifier
gets much hotter than the output
devices.
Circuit details
Let’s now take a look at the circuit
in greater detail. As shown in Fig.1,
the primary of the transformer is protected by a 3A slow-blow fuse which
has been specified to handle the high
inrush current.
The two 18V secondary windings
of the transformer are connected in
parallel to provide the required current and these feed the bridge rectifier.
This in turn supplies the rectified DC
to two 4700µF filter capacitors which
are both needed to cope with the high
ripple current. They are followed by
a 15A fuse which is only included
to provide output short circuit protection.
The output of the fuse is fed directly
to one side of the lamp and to REG1,
a 12V regulator which supplies a stable voltage to the rest of the circuit.
We could probably have omitted the
regulator as IC1 has its own inbuilt
reference but as we are looking for
a rock steady output, we decided to
include it.
The heart of the circuit is IC1,
a TL494 pulse width modu
lation
(PWM) controller. Inside this device
is an on-board oscillator, a reference
regulator, two error amplifiers, several
comparators and a pair of output driver transistors. You can find out more
about this device by referring to the
Motor Speed Controller article in the
June 1997 issue (a block diagram of
the device was published on page 28).
In simple terms, the TL494 PWM
controller operates as fol
lows. Its
oscillator runs at 20kHz (as set by the
RC components on pins 5 & 6) and it
produces a pulse train at its outputs
at this frequency. The width of the
pulses is varied (ie, pulse width modulated) and the ratio of the “on” time
to the “off” time controls the voltage
applied to the load which in this case
is the enlarger lamp.
A fraction of the output voltage is
fed to one input of one of the error
amplifiers (pin 2 of A1), while the
other input (pin 1) is connected to a
reference voltage. If the output voltage
rises slightly, the error amplifier senses this change and alters the output
on-off ratio to bring the output voltage
back to the required level.
This is done by reducing the “on”
time at the device outputs (pins 9 &
10). The converse applies for a falling
output voltage.
Pins 9 & 10 of IC1 are simply the
emitters of the two output transistors,
November 1997 55
This close-up view shows the assembled PC board with one Mosfet fitted. Note
that the board was modified after this photo was taken and some parts shown
here have been deleted from the final design.
connected here in parallel. Their collectors at pins 8 & 11 are connected to
a +12V supply rail derived from 3-terminal regulator REG1. This means
that the internal transistors operate as
emitter followers and each time they
turn on, they pull the bases of Q1 &
Q2 to +12V.
As a result, the emitters of Q1 & Q2
which are wired as complementary
emitter followers, together with the
gates of Q3 & Q4, swing from 0V to
+12V. This means that the gate drive
signal is limited to this voltage.
Q1 and Q2 are included for another
56 Silicon Chip
reason and that is to rapidly charge
and discharge the gate capacitances
of the Mosfets each time they turn on
and off. This improves the switching
action of the Mosfets; ie, it speeds
up their turn-on and turn-off times
and thereby reduces their power
dissipation.
Each time the Mosfets turn on (ie,
when Q1 & Q2 turn on), current flows
through them and the lamp to ground.
The switching regulator (IC1) then
acts to ensure that the average output
voltage applied to the lamp is 12V.
In order to control the output voltage
precisely, the TL494 monitors both
sides of the lamp. The filtered output
from the bridge rectifier is monitored
via 20kΩ and 2.2kΩ voltage divider
resistors (R3 & R4), the output of which
goes to pin 1 of comparator A1. The
voltage on the other side (at the drains
of the Mosfets) is sensed via R1 & R2
(18kΩ and 4.7kΩ) and the sampled
voltage fed via a 47kΩ resistor to pin
2 (the other input of comparator A1).
In addition, a voltage is tapped off
the +5V reference by VR1 and fed
through a second 47kΩ resistor to
pin 2. This trimpot is used to set the
output voltage.
To understand how this works, it’s
important to realise that the voltage
on pin 2 is always equal to the voltage
on pin 1, since these two pins are the
inputs of an op amp. This means that
if the wiper of VR1 is wound down
towards 0V, the voltage at the junction
of R1 & R2 must increase so that the
pin 2 voltage remains the same as the
voltage on pin 1.
Conversely, if the wiper of VR1 is
wound towards +5V, the voltage at
the junction of R1 & R2 goes down to
maintain the voltage on pin 2.
What happens is that the TL494
varies its output pulse width so that
its pin 2 voltage matches its pin 1
voltage. In practice, of course, VR1 is
set to a fixed value and so the TL494
maintains a constant average voltage
on the drains of the Mosfets and thus
across the lamp.
Note that the reference voltage for
pin 1 of IC1 has been derived from
the unregulated DC supply rail. This
has been done so that the circuit automatically compensates for mains
voltage variations. If the mains voltage
varies, then so does the unregulated
DC supply rail and thus the voltage on
pin 1. As a result, the TL494 varies its
output pulse width to bring the pin 2
voltage into line and keep the average
lamp voltage constant.
Slow start circuit
Switches S2 (local) and S3 (remote)
are used to turn the lamp on or off.
They work in conjunction with a slow
start circuit which has been included
to prolong the life of the lamp.
If both switches are off, the 1µF
capacitor between pins 4 & 14 of IC1
will be discharged due to the 4.7kΩ
resistor and diode D1. The voltage
on the inhibit pin (pin 4) will thus
be equal to the REF voltage on pin 14
(5V) and there will be no output from
the TL494.
Conversely, when one of the switch
es is closed, the 1µF capacitor charges
via the 100kΩ resistor in parallel with
D1. During this time, the voltage on
the inhibit pin gradually falls and the
output pulse width from the TL494
steadily increases. This means that
the lamp voltage rises steadily to 12V,
thereby providing a soft start.
Construction
Most of the parts are accommodated on a PC board coded 10107971
and measuring 145 x 102mm. Before
commencing the assembly, check the
board carefully against the published
pattern to ensure that there are no
etching defects.
Fig.2 shows where all the parts go.
No particular order need be followed
when assembling the board but it’s
best to start with the smaller parts
first (resistors, trimpot, diodes and
low-value capacitors). Table 1 shows
the resistor colour codes but it’s also a
good idea to check the resistor values
on a digital multimeter.
Take care to ensure that the correct
transistor is installed at each location
and that its orientation is correct. We
used an IC socket for the TL494 but
this can be considered optional. It too
must be correctly orientated, as must
D1 and the electrolytic capacitors.
PC stakes are used for the external
connections to the local and remote
switches and to LED1. Do not use
PC stakes for the other wiring connections though – these points carry
heavy currents and the leads should
be soldered directly to the PC board.
Although the circuit diagram (Fig.1)
shows two Mosfets in parallel, one
should be sufficient for lamp loads
up to about 5A (ie, for lamps rated up
to 60W). This Mosfet can be mounted
Fig.2: take care to ensure that all polarised components are correctly
orientated when building the PC board. You can use just one Mosfet
for lamp loads up to about 60W.
in either the Q3 or Q4 position and
should be fitted with a small U-shaped
heatsink (see photo of prototype). If
the lamp is rated at more than 60W,
then the second Mosfet should also
be installed.
Note that it will be necessary to
splay the fins on one of the heatsinks
slightly, so that the second heatsink
can be fitted to its Mosfet. Make sure
that the metal tabs of the Mosfets go
towards IC1. The metal tab of REG1
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
❏
No.
❏ 1
❏ 1
❏ 2
❏ 1
❏ 1
❏ 1
❏ 2
❏ 2
❏ 1
❏ 2
Value
1MΩ
100kΩ
47kΩ
20kΩ
18kΩ
10kΩ
4.7kΩ
2.2kΩ
1kΩ
4.7Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black green brown
brown black yellow brown
yellow violet orange brown
red black orange brown
brown grey orange brown
brown black orange brown
yellow violet red brown
red red red brown
brown black red brown
yellow violet gold brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black yellow brown
brown black black orange brown
yellow violet black red brown
red black black red brown
brown grey black red brown
brown black black red brown
yellow violet black brown brown
red red black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
yellow violet black silver brown
November 1997 57
Fig.3: be sure to use mains-rated cable for all wiring to fuse F1, the mains
terminal block, switch S1 and for the earth connection to S2. LED1 and the wiring to it can be omitted if you use a neon-illuminated mains rocker switch.
faces in the opposite direction.
Now install the two large 4700µF
electrolytic capacitors and fit the
bridge rectifier and the chassis-mount
fuseholder. These last two items are
bolted to the PC board using machine
screws and nuts. Orient the bridge rectifier so that its “+” and “-” terminals
are located as shown and note that a
Powerfin heatsink (normally drilled
for a TO-3 transistor) goes between it
and the PC board.
58 Silicon Chip
Smear heatsink compound over the
bottom of the bridge rectifier before
bolting it down. You can use one of
the existing TO-3 mounting holes,
which means that the bridge rectifier
will sit slightly off-centre.
The PC board assembly can now be
completed by installing the wiring to
the fuseholder and to the “+” and “-”
terminals of the bridge rectifier (BR1).
Use heavy duty 10A cable for this
job. We used automotive-style spade
connectors to terminate the leads on
the bridge rectifier and fuseholder
terminals.
Two more heavy-duty cables, each
about 180mm long, should also be
soldered to points 3 and 4 on the PC
board. Use a red lead for the point 3
connection and a black lead to point
4 (these are the output leads for the
lamp and are later run to a terminal
block mounted on the rear panel).
Drilling the case
A standard plastic instrument case
with plastic front and rear panels
is used to house the circuitry. Fig.3
shows the layout inside the case. As
can be seen, the power transformer
(T1) is mounted on an aluminium
baseplate and this is secured, along
with the PC board, to integral standoffs on the base of the case using
self-tapping screws.
The first step is to mark out and drill
the necessary holes in the baseplate.
You will need four mounting holes for
the case standoffs, a mounting hole
in the rear lefthand corner to secure
the earth solder lugs, and a mounting
hole in the centre to take the power
transformer bolt.
The hole locations for the standoffs can be easily marked out by first
marking the tops of the standoffs with
a felt pen and then carefully pressing
the aluminium plate onto them. This
done, the holes can all be centre
punched and drilled to 3mm.
By the way, the aluminium baseplate allows the mains wiring and
the circuit to be correctly earthed. As
such, it is an important safety measure
and must not be deleted.
When drilling is complete, deburr
all the holes and secure the two
earth solder lugs in position using a
machine screw, washer and nut. An
additional locknut should then be
fitted so that the earth lugs can not
come loose. This done, secure the
transformer to the baseplate, then fasten the baseplate to the case standoffs
using four self-tapping screws.
Note that the transformer is secured
using a large bolt, two rubber washers
and a large metal washer. One of the
rubber washers sits under the transformer, while the second sits under
the metal washer at the top.
The front and rear panels can now
be drilled to accept the various hardware items. The front panel requires
a rectangular cutout for the mains
switch (S1), plus holes for the power
indicator LED and toggle switch S2.
If you use a mains switch with a neon
illuminated rocker, the power indicator LED can be omitted.
The cutout for the mains switch can
be made by drilling a series of small
holes around the inside edge of the
cutout area and then knocking out
the centre piece. The edges should
then be cleaned up using a file and
the cutout carefully enlarged until
the mains switch just fits. Make sure
that the switch is a tight fit and that it
cannot accidentally fall out.
Moving now to the rear panel, you
Parts List
1 PC board, code 10107971, 145
x 102mm
1 160VA toroidal power
transformer with two 18V
secondaries; Jaycar MT-2113,
Altronics M4055 or equivalent
1 plastic case, 200 x 160 x 70mm
1 panel-mount 3AG fuseholder
1 3A 3AG fuse (F1)
1 chassis-mount 3AG fuseholder;
Altronics Cat. S6010 or equiv.
1 15A 3AG fuse (F2)
1 3-way mains terminal block
1 4-way mains terminal block
1 mains switch with plastic rocker;
Jaycar Cat. SK-0984 or SK0985 (illuminated)
1 mains lead with moulded 3-pin
plug
1 miniature toggle switch
1 Powerfin heatsink (DSE Cat.
H-3400 or equiv).
1 semi-mini heatsink (DSE Cat.
H-3404 or equiv).
3 solder lugs
1 piece of aluminium, 130 x 90 x
1.6mm
1 5kΩ horizontal PC-mount
trimpot (VR1)
Semiconductors
1 TL494CN switching regulator
controller (IC1)
will require mounting holes for the
cordgrip grommet, the fuseholder
and the 4-way terminal strip. The
locations of these components can
be gauged from the photographs and
from Fig.3. Note that the mains cord
hole should be carefully profiled to
match the cordgrip grommet.
Final wiring
The hardware items can now all be
mounted in the case, ready for wiring
– see Fig.3. Note that the mains terminal strip is secured to one of the case
standoffs using a self-tapping screw.
Exercise extreme care when installing the mains wiring, as your safety
depends on it. In particular, make
sure that the mains cord is securely
anchored by the cordgrip grommet on
the rear panel and cannot be pulled
out.
The Active (brown) lead from the
1 BC639 NPN power transistor
(Q1)
1 BC640 PNP power transistor
(Q2)
1 or 2 MTP75N05 Mosfets
(Q3,Q4) – see text
1 7812 regulator (REG1)
1 1N914 small signal diode (D1)
1 400V 25A bridge rectifier (BR1)
1 red LED and mounting bezel
(LED1) (not needed if mains
switch has neon-illuminated
rocker)
Capacitors
2 4700µF 25WV PC electrolytic
3 100µF 25WV PC electrolytic
1 1µF 16VW PC electrolytic
3 0.1µF MKT polyester
1 .0068µF MKT polyester
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 1MΩ
1 10kΩ
1 100kΩ
2 4.7kΩ
2 47kΩ
2 2.2kΩ
1 20kΩ
1 1kΩ
1 18kΩ
2 4.7Ω
Miscellaneous
Heatshrink tubing, red and black
heavy-duty hookup wire, light-duty
figure-8 cable, mains-rated cable
(brown, blue & green/yellow)
mains cord goes directly to fuse F1,
the Neutral (Blue) lead goes to the
mains terminal block, and the Earth
lead is soldered to one of the earth
lugs on the baseplate. Additional
mains-rated leads are then run from
the fuse and terminal block to the
mains switch (S1).
The terminals of the fuseholder
and mains switch should be covered
with heatshrink tubing to prevent
accidental contact with the mains.
This involves slipping a length of
heatshrink tubing over all the leads
before they are soldered to the terminals. After soldering, the heatshrink
tubing is pushed over the fuseholder
and mains switch bodies and shrunk
using a hot-air gun.
The two orange wires from the
transformer are the primary leads and
these go to the mains terminal block,
as shown. The low-voltage secondary
November 1997 59
The power transformer is mounted on
an aluminium plate which must be
securely earthed. Sleeve all exposed
terminals on the mains switch and
fuse with heatshrink tubing to prevent
accidental contact with the mains.
leads are much thicker. Twist the red
and pink leads together and terminate their ends in a spade terminal.
This done, do the same for the white
and yellow leads, then connect the
transformer secondaries to the AC
terminals on the bridge rectifier.
Finally, complete the wiring to LED
1, switch S2 and to the rear-panel
terminal strip. Note that a solder lug
goes over S2’s collar and that an earth
lead (mains rated) is run from this
collar back to an earth solder lug on
the baseplate. This earths the metal
parts of the switch body, including
the toggle actuator.
Testing
Before switching on, go back over
the wiring carefully and check that all
is correct. This done, wind VR1 fully
clockwise apply power and check
60 Silicon Chip
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Fig.4: check your PC board against this full-size etching pattern before
installing the parts.
REMOTE
SWITCH
TO LAMP
(12V)
FUSE 3A 240VAC
Fig.5 (above & right): these two labels
can be affixed to the rear panel above
the terminal block and next to the
mains fuse.
Disconnect mains plug
from wall outlet before
removing fuse
As featured in ‘Silicon Chip’ Jan. ’96
This REFLEX® charger charges single cells
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110mAh to 7Ah.
VERY FAST CHARGING. Standard batteries
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AVOID THE WELL KNOWN MEMORY EFFECT.
the voltages at various points on the
circuit. You should get about +27V
at the output of the bridge rectifier,
+2.7V on pin 1 of IC1, +5V on pin 14
and +12V on pin 12 (ie, the output
of REG1).
If all these voltages are correct,
connect a 12V test lamp and a voltmeter across the output terminals
and carefully wind VR1 up until you
get 12V. You should now be able to
measure about 2.4V at the wiper of
VR1 and 3.0V at the junction of R1
and R2 although your unit may vary
slightly from these figures.
Finally, the output voltage should
be reset when the enlarger lamp is
connected, to make sure it is correct.
That’s it – you can now tackle your
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SC
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November 1997 61
Does your doorbell
just go ding dong
or worse, don’t you
have any doorbell
at all? Either way,
you can improve
your whole lifestyle
by building and
installing this
musical doorbell.
It plays a sequence
of nine notes each
time someone
presses the button.
Design by BOB FLYNN
Musical
come clean. Maybe
A
building this musical doorbell
might not make a huge difference to
LRIGHT, WE’LL
your lifestyle but then again maybe
it might. One of the visitors to your
home might be so impressed by your
unique doorbell that they might offer
you a partnership in a huge new electronics venture. You never know . . .
The new doorbell uses just three
cheap ICs and three transistors in the
circuit. There are two good ol’ reliable
62 Silicon Chip
oorbell
D
CMOS 555 timers, a 4017 counter and
not much else. We are presenting this
project just as a PC board, knowing
that you will want to make your own
arrangements as far as the case and
loudspeaker are concerned.
The unit will play virtually any tune
of up to nine notes although there is a
proviso which we will come to later.
Let’s have a look at the circuit of Fig.1.
There are two separate 555 oscillators and a 4017 decade counter. What
happens is that the first 555 oscillator
(IC1) produces the clock pulses for
counter IC2. IC2 then counts from 0
to 8 and then stops on the tenth clock
pulse. The whole circuit waits until
the next time the door bell button is
pressed but we’re getting a little ahead
of ourselves.
Each output of the 4017 counter is
used to produce a separate frequency
from the second 555 timer, IC3. This
then drives an amplifier stage consist-
Fig.1: IC2 is the heart of the circuit and its nine outputs cause IC3 to produce nine different notes as it counts through.
ing of two transistors, Q2 & Q3, which
drive the loudspeaker.
How it works
Now let’s have a more detailed
look at how the circuit works. IC1 is
a conventional 555 timer circuit with
its output frequency variable between
about 1.3Hz and 5.5Hz, depending on
the setting of the 2MΩ trimpot VR1.
The only unusual feature of the circuit of IC1 is the connection to pin 4.
In normal free-running 555 oscillator
circuits, pin 4 is tied to the positive
supply rail but in this case we use pin
4 to start and stop oscillation.
The output pulses from pin 3 of
IC1 are fed to the clock input of IC2
and each of its outputs from Q0-Q8
goes high in turn for the duration of
a clock pulse. Each 4017 output is fed
via a diode and two resistors (R1 &
R2) to pin 7 of IC3. Depending on the
values of R1 & R2 connected to each
4017 output, IC3 can then generate a
different note in a nine-note sequence.
On the tenth clock pulse, the Q9
output of IC2 goes high and this pulls
the clock enable pin 13 high and
also pulls the base of transistor Q1
high. The combination of these two
events effectively stops IC2 on the
tenth count and ensures that when
pushbutton S1 is pressed, the pin 3
output of IC1 immediately goes high
to give a full first count in the nine
count sequence from IC2.
IC3 generates the nine notes. The
frequency of each note is determined
by the sum of the resistance of resistors R1 & R2, the 51kΩ resistor
between pins 6 & 7 and the .01µF
capacitor at pins 2 & 6. Table 1 shows
the values to provide one octave of
notes including sharps and flats.
The overall pitch of all the notes
can be shifted up or down by the tune
control, trimpot VR2. This takes advantage of the fact that you can shift
the upper and lower thresholds of the
555 timer with an adjustable voltage
divider connected to pin 5.
The pin 3 output of IC3 drives a rud
i
mentary amplifier stage consisting
of complementary emitter followers
Q2 & Q3. These in turn drive the 8Ω
loudspeaker via a 220µF coupling
capacitor and a 27Ω current limiting
resistor.
Since the output waveform is essentially a pulse train, the complementary
amplifier stage can operate in class-B
and do without such niceties as quiescent current. By the way, the output
from pin 3 of IC3 has a varying duty
cycle, depending on the frequency,
since the resistor between pins 6 & 7
is constant at 51kΩ while resistors R1
& R2 are varied.
Construction
As noted above, we are presenting
this project just as a PC board, knowing that you will want to make your
own arrangements as far as the case
and loudspeaker are concerned. The
PC board measures 129 x 79mm and
is coded 11211971. Fig.2 shows the
component overlay.
After checking the PC board for any
etching defects or undrilled holes,
November 1997 63
Fig.2: the component overlay for the PC board. You will need to select the values for R1
& R2 from Table 1.
Fig.3: here is the full-size etching pattern for the PC board.
install the PC stakes for the supply,
loudspeaker and pushbutton connections. This done, install the wire links,
the diode and the resistors. It is a good
idea to check each resistor value with
your multimeter before you install it.
Ah, now what values should you
use for R1 & R2? Table 1 shows the
values for various notes so if you have
a favourite few bars of music you can
determine the notes you want and pick
the resistors accordingly. But there is
64 Silicon Chip
one little drawback to be noted.
Since the 4017 counts from one
to nine in a continuous sequence,
the notes are produced in the same
sequence, with no gaps in between.
This does not present a problem if
all adjacent notes in the sequence
are different but if you have two adjacent notes which are the same you
do have a problem. Instead of having
two separate notes you will just get
one long note.
The only way of overcoming this,
short of adding extra gates to provide
a short break between each note, is
to leave a one-note gap between two
identical notes. This means that your
tune will be shortened to eight notes
and you will then need to omit the
diode and resistors R1 & R2 for that
note position.
Going back the circuit of Fig.1 for
a moment, that is why the diode and
the resistors associated with the Q4
Parts List
1 PC board, code 11211971,
129 x 79mm
6 PC stakes
1 momentary contact pushbutton
switch (S1)
1 6V or 9V battery or DC
plugpack (see text)
1 8Ω loudspeaker
1 2MΩ trimpot (VR1)
1 2kΩ trimpot (VR2)
This musical doorbell can be arranged to play a nine-note sequence each time
you press the pushbutton. Make sure that all parts are correctly oriented.
output of IC2 have the note “Omit”.
The circuit actually shows the note
sequence for “Westminster Chimes”
and since the fourth and fifth notes are
both C, we’ve had to omit the resistors
and diode for the Q4 output of IC2.
So this long-winded explanation
makes the point: if you have a tune
with two adjacent notes the same,
you will need to leave gap (in time)
otherwise you will get one note the
same. The obvious alternative to this
Table 1
Semiconductors
2 7555 timers (IC1, IC3)
1 4017 decade counter (IC2)
1 BC547 NPN transistor (Q1)
1 BC337 NPN transistor (Q2)
1 BC327 PNP transistor (Q3)
9 1N914, 1N4148 small signal
diodes (D1-D9)
1 1N4004 silicon diode (D10)
dilemma is to choose a tune which
does not present this problem.
Having inserted all the resistors,
you can now finish the board assembly, taking care to ensure that all
the semiconductors and electrolytic
capacitors are inserted the correct
way around.
Capacitors
1 220µF 16VW PC electrolytic
2 100µF 16VW PC electrolytic
1 0.33µF MKT polyester
1 0.15µF MKT polyester
3 0.1µF MKT polyester
2 .01µF MKT polyester
1 .0033 MKT polyester
Testing
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 560kΩ
1 15kΩ
2 100kΩ
2 10kΩ
1 56kΩ
1 27Ω
1 22kΩ
Values for R1 & R2 depend on
desired notes – see Table 1.
To test the finished board, you will
need a 9V battery or DC power supply,
an 8Ω loudspeaker and a pushbutton.
If all your work is correct, the board
should run through its sequence of
notes as soon as the supply is connected and then fall silent. After that,
nothing should happen until you push
the button and then the note sequence
should be produced.
If the circuit does not work as it
should you can check the operation
of each stage with your multimeter.
For example, the output at pin 3 of
IC1 should pulse up and down at
around two or three times per second
if trimpot VR1 is at its mid setting. You
can check this with your multimeter
set to read DC.
Similarly, you can check that each
of the outputs of IC2 go high in turn
and so on.
Options
You have several options for powering the circuit. First, you can use
a 9V battery but ideally this should
employ six C or D cells to obtain long
battery life. If you use a 9V (Eveready
216 size), the battery will not last
long. You could also use a 6V lantern
battery but then the 27Ω resistor in
series with the loudspeaker should
be reduced to 18Ω.
Alternatively you could power the
circuit with a 6V or 9V DC plugpack,
bearing in mind that their operating
voltage will typically be around 50%
more; ie, 9V and 13V, respectively. Do
not use a 12V DC plugpack because
the output voltage will be too lightly
loaded for this circuit. You would
run the risk of blowing the chips as
the plugpack voltage is likely to be as
high as 17V.
Finally, if you do use a DC plugpack
instead of a battery, you can save a
little money by using ordinary 555s
instead of 7555s. Their current drain
will be a lot higher but that does not
SC
matter with a plugpack.
November 1997 65
RADIO CONTROL
BY BOB YOUNG
How does a servo work?
This month we take a look at the principles
underlying the operation of servos designed
for use with R/C systems. You move the stick
on your transmitter and the servo moves to a
new position. Why? We shall find out.
in a high level of interchangeability.
Fig.2 shows an exploded view of
a typical servo. Item 19 is the potentiometer which in this servo is a
replaceable ceramic element which
screws into a housing moulded into
the servo case. Modern servos use a
miniature sealed potentiometer.
Pulse width modulation
Not only is the design of the typical
R/C servo an elegant example of modern mass production but the system
whereby six, seven or more channels
of data are modulated onto the radio
carrier is elegant as well.
It is here that the great mystery
begins for the average electronics
buff. Just what is the system of
modulation and how does it result
in such precise clockwise (CW) and
counter-clock-wise (CCW) control of
an electric motor?
The basic servo is best defined as a
closed loop, error cancelling system
in which some of the output is fed
back into the input in such a way
that the system automatically seeks to
come to rest in a state of zero error. In
this null or neutral position it should
draw negligible current. Fig.1 is the
block diagram of such a system.
A typical modern R/C servo has
the following components: a plastic
housing and gear train, electric motor,
feedback potentiometer and a servo
amplifier. The feedback potentiometer is mechanically linked to the servo
output arm either directly or indirectly via a gear train. The indirect
drive servo minimises the vibrational
wear on the potentiometer but is more
expensive. A three-pin plug is fitted
as standard to most servos, resulting
Fig.1: block diagram of a typical servo motor. A positive-going input
pulse is compared with an internally generated negative going reference
pulse in the error amplifier and used to drive the motor.
66 Silicon Chip
The input signal to the servo amplifier is a variable width pulse and
it is here that the magic begins. The
position of the servo output arm is
slaved (or proportional) to the width
of this input pulse. Thus it can be described as a pulse width modulation
(PWM) system.
Modern PWM systems have a virtually universal standard positive
input pulse of 3-5V amplitude with a
neutral of 1.5ms and varying between
1-2ms. The repetition rate of this
pulse (Frame Rate) is typically
between 14-25ms (70Hz to 40Hz)
depending upon the number of channels transmitted. Don’t worry if this
terminology is all Greek to you at the
moment. We will explain it.
The diagram of Fig.3 shows typical
input pulse parameters. This pulse
signal comes from the decoder which
produces separate pulse signals for
each servo. We will discuss encoders
and decoders next month.
While the basic elements of the
modern servos differ little from their
early counterparts, the same cannot
be said about the servo amplifier
which is now just an integrated circuit with a few external components,
taking up little space inside the servo
case.
Example circuit
As the modern IC servo amplifier is
difficult to analyse, it is easier for us
to look at a discrete servo amplifier
developed before the IC took over.
Fig.4 shows the circuit of an old
Silvertone servo. RV is the feedback
potentiometer which is coupled to
the motor.
A positive-going pulse of 4.8V
amplitude is fed from the receiver
decoder into the base of transistor
Q1 which operates as an emitter
follower. The pulse signal appears
across R1 in the same phase but with
the base/emitter voltage drop of about
0.6V subtracted. This positive-going
pulse is then fed via R6 to the summing junction and via capacitor C2
and R2 to the input of IC1, a UL914
dual OR gate.
IC1 is configured as a one-shot
multivibrator with a time constant
set by C3, R3 and RV. This one-shot
generates a negative-going reference
pulse of about 4.2V amplitude which
is then fed via R7 to the summing
junction R8, R9, C4, C5. The values
of R5, R6 and R7 are chosen to deliver
pulses of equal amplitude but opposite phase to the summing junction.
R5 along with C1 also forms the
supply decoupling network for the
one-shot IC1.
Timing diagrams
Now we need to look at some timing diagrams which show how the
input pulse and the reference pulse
are summed to produce a drive signal
to the servo motor.
Fig.5 shows the first condition.
The top trace (a) is the positive-going
input pulse while the second trace
(b) is the negative-going reference
pulse. When these two pulses are
applied to the summing junction the
result is trace (c). As you can see, the
pulses have exactly cancelled out
since they have equal amplitude and
duration. The result is zero output,
the condition required for neutral or
rest position.
Fig.6 shows the conditions for
clockwise drive (CW) of the servo
motor. Here the positive pulse (a) is
of longer duration than the negative
reference pulse (b). The output of the
summing junction is a positive pulse,
the duration of which equals the difference between the input (positive)
and reference generator (negative)
pulses. This positive pulse is transferred to the bases of Q2 and Q3 via
capacitors C4 and C5. As Q2 is a PNP
transistor it will not respond to this
Fig.2: exploded view of a typical servo. Item 19 is the potentiometer which in
this servo is a replaceable ceramic element which screws into a housing
moulded into the servo case. Modern servos use a miniature sealed
potentiometer.
November 1997 67
Fig.3: typical input pulse parameters for an R/C servo. This
pulse signal comes from the decoder which produces separate
pulse signals for each servo.
positive-going pulse but NPN transistor Q3 will. Capacitor C6 is a pulse
stretcher and provides smoothing
until the next pulse arrives 20ms later.
The drive circuit for the motor
is unusual in that it is the old centre-tapped 4.8V system (four wire
system). Modern IC servo amplifiers
use a bridge drive circuit which will
give bidirectional drive from a single
4.8V battery (three wire system).
With Q3 now conducting, transistors Q5 & Q7 will also conduct
and drive the motor in a clockwise
direction.
When we have the conditions
shown in Fig.7, where the input pulse
is shorter the than the reference pulse,
the output of the summing junction
Fig.4 (below): the circuit of an old
Silvertone servo using discrete
components. RV is the feedback
potentiometer built into the servo
mechanics. It adjusts the reference
pulse width as the motor is driven to
the desired position.
68 Silicon Chip
is a negative pulse (c). This causes
transistors Q2, Q4 & Q6 to conduct,
driving the motor in the counter
clockwise direction.
Feedback seeks the neutral
Now we come to the clever part.
The feedback potentiometer RV is
connected to the output shaft of the
servo mechanics and is wired in such
a manner that the servo motor always
moves to reduce the error (difference)
signal to zero by changing the width
of the reference generator pulse.
You can visualise this happening.
Say, we have the condition shown
in the waveforms of Fig.7 and the
input pulse is wider than the reference pulse. The motor will be driven
clockwise and at the same time the
setting of RV changes to widen the
reference pulse. This narrows the
pulse from the summing junction
until ultimately the input pulse and
reference pulse cancel each other exactly and the result is zero output to
the motor. The servo is now in the null
or neutral position and will stay that
way until the input pulse changes.
The same thing happens when we
have the conditions shown in Fig.8.
Here the input pulse is narrower than
the reference pulse and the motor is
driven anticlockwise. This changes
the setting of RV to reduce the duration of the reference pulse until
again, the input pulse cancels out the
reference pulse and the motor arrives
at the neutral position.
To sum up, if the input pulse is
narrow, the servo will move until
the reference pulse is also narrow.
If the input pulse is wide, the servo
will move until the reference pulse
is equally wide. Relating this back
to the beginning of the article when
we said that the neutral pulse width
is typically 1.5ms, this means that
when the input pulse width is also
1.5ms, the servo seeks the neutral or
null position which is usually in the
centre of its travel.
If the input pulse is 2ms wide, the
servo will move clock
wise. If the
input pulse is 1ms wide, the servo
will move anticlockwise.
Servo phasing
In case you are wondering how to
work out the correct sense for the
potentiometer wiring let me tell you
a simple way. You wire the positive
and negative leads to the two outside
tabs on the pot and the wiper to the
lead coming from R14. When you
plug the servo in, if it races down to
Damping
R4 is the main damping resistor,
advancing or retarding the reference
pulse generator slightly according to
the direction of rotation. In this way
the motor drive can be shut down
just before the null point is reached,
allowing the servo to coast smoothly
to a stop at the correct position.
In a feedback system there are three
types of damping conditions possible:
under-damped, over-damped and
dead-beat. An under-damped servo
will swing past the neutral point
and then kick back past neutral and
kick back again in increasingly small
oscillations until the zero error point
is reached.
An over-damped servo will shut
down well before the zero error point
is reached and slowly creep back to
neutral. The dead-beat servo will
come straight back to the correct neutral with no over or undershoot. By
adjusting R4 the correct amount of ref-
SILICON CHIP SOFTWARE
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SILICON CHIP articles since the first issue
in November 1987. The Floppy Index
comes with a handy file viewer that lets
you look at the index line by line or page
by page for quick browsing, or you can
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know what to do next.
Notes & Errata also now available:
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✂
one end of the throw, tearing the teeth
off the output gears, you know you
got it wrong. You then reverse either
the two outside wires on the pot or
reverse the two motor wires but not
both and the servo operates normally.
These days the servo manufacturers
usually wire the motor and pot leads
directly into the amplifier PC board
and servo reversing is no longer
possible. Servo repairing is no longer
possible or cost effective in most cases, thereby increasing the pressure on
transmitter designers to provide servo
reversing at the transmitter end.
To tidy up the remaining parts of
the amplifier description, R14 is the
feedback voltage set resistor, setting
the throw of the servo. The higher the
value of R14, the more travel required
before sufficient control voltage was
available to null the error. R3 will also
provide throw adjustment. Throw
is defined as the amount of angular
displacement on the output arm for
any given pulse width variation.
D1 is an isolation diode. R8, R9 &
R10 also act as base tie-down resistors
for thermal stability. R13 is a current
limiting resistor. Capacitors C7 & C8
are connected from each motor termi
nal to the case. These capacitors must
be mounted on the servo motor and
form the noise suppression network
for the motor. R15 prevents both
sides of the amplifier switching on
simultaneously.
November 1997 69
Fig.5: the top trace (a) is the positive-going input pulse
while the second trace (b) is the negative-going reference
pulse. When these two pulses are applied to the summing
junction the result is zero output (c), the condition required
for neutral or rest position.
Fig.6: conditions for clockwise drive (CW) of the servo
motor. Here the positive pulse (a) is of longer duration than
the negative reference pulse (b). The output of the summing
junction is a positive pulse, the duration of which equals
the difference between the input (positive) and reference
generator (negative) pulses.
Fig.7: conditions for CCW drive. The input pulse is shorter
the than the reference pulse, so the output of the summing
junction is a negative pulse (c) which drives the motor
anticlockwise.
erence generator adjustment may be
achieved. A slightly under-damped
servo (one kickback) is the best compromise for heavily loaded servos.
Setting the damping on any servo
70 Silicon Chip
is the most difficult part of the servo
design. The problem begins with the
pulse stretching network and encompasses such factors as servo power,
slew rate, operational load, dead band
This is a Silvertone servo, circa 1973,
showing the double deck amplifier
board complete with 11 transistors.
Also visible is the drive motor and
feedback potentiometer.
and most importantly the minimum
impulse power of the servo amplifier.
The dead band is the notch that the
servo comes to rest in. If this notch
is too wide, then centring inaccuracies occur; if too narrow, the servo
chatters away because it cannot find
a spot to come to rest. This results in
excess current being drawn by the
servo, overheating of the amplifier
and brush wear on the motor.
The minimum impulse power of
the amplifier is the ability of the amplifier to obtain the maximum torque
from the motor on the minimum error
pulse. The higher the minimum impulse power the better the resolution
of the servo and the less demands on
the damping network. As you can
imagine, if the servo is over-damped
and it shuts down too early it must
rely on the minimum impulse power
to creep it back to the correct neutral.
If the servo is heavily loaded and
with too high a dead band, then the
servo may sit just short of the correct
neutral, introducing a control error
which is annoying to the operator of
the model. Worse still the servo is
drawing excessive current, reducing
battery life and overheating the transistors. Four or more servos doing this
could reduce battery life to half and
possibly result in a crash.
So there you have it! Now you
should have good understanding of
the theory of servo operation. Just
coincidentally, next month’s Circuit
Notebook will include a servo based
on a windscreen wiper motor. The
operating principles are the same.
Next month we will look at how
the input pulse arrives via a remote
SC
or local link.
BARGAIN CORNER
See our WEB SITE or “Poll” (02) 9570 7910 for
BARGAIN CORNER and NEW PRODUCTS. The
WEB SITE has much, much more information and
a catalogue. Many more items than the following
sample of our “BARGAIN CORNER”. Note that
we have LIMITED STOCK of some of the items.
109701.USED GEARED 24V DC MOTORS, metal gears
and gear casing, very STRONG!. Approx 28RPM<at>24V,
14RPM<at>12V, starts turning at a few volts, 0.12A <at> 12V
N/L, 0.16A <at> 24V N/L, motor itself is 40mm dia., 60mm
long: $20. 109702. 115Vac “MUFFIN” FANS, new, 50/60Hz,
0.20A, shaded pole motor, metal frame, plastic blade, 40mm
thickness: $4. 109714. INDUCTIVE PROXIMITY SWITCHES,
LINK NO30MB-2AL, 30mm dia., 90mm long, two wire, 40
to 250Vac, 0.5A: $5 ea. 99710. CAR CIGARETTE LIGHTER
LEADS, good quality, new, fused plug with 2A fuse, curly cord
that stretches to 3 metres, terminated in 2.1mm DC plug:
3 for $5. 99711. CAR CIGARETTE LIGHTER LEADS, good
quality, new, fused plug with 8A fuse, heavy duty 1.5m long
18 A.W.G. (8A rating) cable, terminated in 2.1mm DC plug: 3
for $7. 99712. UNIDIRECTIONAL ELECTRET MICROPHONE,
good quality, fitted with alligator clamp for use as lapel mic
and 2.8m long shielded cable terminated in jack plug: $4 ea.
99713. WIRING LOOMS, new, contains 3m each of yellow
and blue stranded (0.5mm square C.S.A.) cable, 4m each
of red and black heavy duty (1.5mm square C.S.A) stranded
cable, also includes some automotive fuses/holders and
matching spade connectors: 5 lots (70m wire) for $9. 99715.
CAR COMMUNICATIONS SPEAKER IN BOX, parcel shelf
mounting bracket, swivel mount, speaker is 4-ohm, 3W nom,
5W max, 50mm diameter, 1.5m cable terminated in jack plug:
$6 ea. 99717. MYSTERY BOX OF ELECTRONICS, something
to do with hands free phone equipment for cars, 85 x 30 x
120mm plastic box, most bits are surface mount but there
are two useful power MOSFETs that could be recovered from
the PCB inside, IRF9530 (P-channel, case: TO-220AB, 100V,
0.30-ohm on-resistance, 12A max) & IRF530 (N-channel,
100V, 0.16ohm, 14A): 2 boxes for $4. 79716. PCB WITH
SEVEN SEGMENT DISPLAYS: PCBs from poker machines,
have 5 x 7.6mm (digit height) and 4 x 20mm 7 segment LED
displays which are soldered to the board : 2 boards for $6.
79717. VALVES: 6J6, 6J7, 6AV6, 6D4; new, any mixture
of 10 for $20. QUANTITY 79748. HEWLETT PACKARD
SWITCH MODE POWER SUPPLY- WORLDWIDE, works at
any voltage 100 to 240Vac, 10.6V / 1.32A DC out, used, in
plastic box 115 x 70 x 30mm with lead and DC plug. $10
79784. USED TO3 DEVICES: 1kg bag (Approx 80) of used
TO3 devices, mostly transistors, some voltage regulators/
diodes/mosfets, wide variety, badly stored, most have bent
pins: 1kg bag for $6.
COLOUR MONITOR
New 12V DC-1A 6" colour monitor, ready for enclosing, no box,
just the tube and driver PCBs, digital RGB inputs (CGA?), we
may have more information: $65.
CALLER ID
See the phone no. of your incoming calls displayed on a LCD
screen while the telephone is ringing. Has 80 call memory,
dialler etc. We should have an approved unit available during
the month of publication. Price will be around $50!
650nm VISIBLE LASER POINTER KIT
YES, NEW 650nM kit!!! Very bright! Complete laser pointer
that works from 3-4V DC. Includes 650nm/5mW laser diode,
new handheld case 125 x 39 x 25mm, adjustable collimator
lens, PCB battery holder: $30.
DISCO LASER LIGHT SHOW PACK
The above 5mW/650nm kit plus our AUTOMATIC LASER
LIGHT SHOW: $99.
650nm LASER POINTER SPECIAL
Light weight (2 x AAA) pen sized pointer with 5mW/650nm
laser diode, 140mm long, 18mm diameter: $55.
650nm LASER MODULE
Our new module is fitted with a 650nM laser diode! Very
small, 35mm long, 10mm diameter, 3 to 4.5V operation: $50.
DC MOTOR SPEED CONTROL- EXPERIMENTERS PACK
One 20A motor speed controller kit (similar to SC June
97) $18, plus two small new 12VDC motors (40mm dia.,
40mm length) plus one used car windscreen wiper motor
(which have internal gear reduction) for: $32.
VISIBLE LASER DIODE MODULE KIT
This kit has the same circuit as our “visible laser diode kit”
but has a smaller printed circuit board that allows it to be
fitted into a piece of tubing. Dimensions of the board are less
than 25mm wide and 50mm long. 650nm/5mW laser diode.
3V operation $29.
THREE STAGE IMAGE INTENSIFIER TUBES
Back in stock. Make a high resolution night scope that will
work in starlight! Three tubes plus the inverter kit plus a
suitable eyepiece. The housing and the front lens are not
supplied: $250.
32mm AUDIO AMPLIFIER: An LM386 based $9 audio power
amplifier which can directly drive a speaker - needs the
32mm preamplifier. WHAT IS 32mm? All boards are 32mm,
so you can house these kits in a plastic 32mm joiner: cheap
plumbing part.
COMPUTER POWER SUPPLY
New PCB assembly only, 45 x 108 x 200mm, 120/230V AC
IN, +5V-6A/12V-1A/-12V-1A/-5V-1A OUT. Circuit provided,
RU approval. Modern design. Not for the inexperienced!
Be quick: $16 ea. or 4 for $56.
WOOFER STOPPER MkII
Works on dogs and most animals, ref SC Feb 96. PCB and
all on-board components, transformer, electret mic & horn
piezo tweeter: ON SPECIAL $33, extra tweeters (drives
4): $7 ea. Approved 13.8V/1A DC plugpack (PP6) $10.
SUPER BRIGHT BLUE LEDS
BY FAR THE BRIGHTEST BLUE EVER OFFERED, super bright
at 400mCd: $1.50 ea. or 10 for $10.
5mm LEDS AT SUPER PRICES
1Cd red: 10 for $4
300mCd green: $1.10 ea. or 10 for $7 (make white light by
mixing the output of red green and blue)
3Cd red: $1.10 ea. or 10 for $7
3Cd yellow (small torch!) also available in 3mm: 10 for $9
Super bright flashing LEDs: $1.50 ea. or 10 for $10
PC POCKET SAMPLER KIT
Ref EA Aug 96. Data logger/sampler, connects to PC parallel
port, samples over a 0-2V or 0-20V range at intervals of one/
hour to one/100us. Monitor battery charging, make a 5kHz
scope etc! Kit includes on-board components, PCB, plastic
box and software (3.5" disk): (K90) $30.
BOSSMAN ELECTRONICS
This new company is a subsidiary of OATLEY ELECTRONICS,
for the purpose of giving TAX EXEMPT PRICES to entitled
organisations. The product range will that will be included
on this list will increase rapidly. For enquiries call BOSSMAN
ELECTRONICS on 02 9584 3562 or fax 02 9584 1031.
NEW SEMICONDUCTOR BARGAINS
2SK2175 - MOSFETS 15A, TO220, 60V, 30W: 10 for $15,
CA3140 - MOSFET input op amp : 5 for $5, TL494 - switchmode power supply IC : 5 for $5, NE555 - timer IC : 10
for $5, ICL7106 - LCD display driver : $5, ICL7107 - LED
display driver: $5, IRFZ44 MOSFETS 60V,0.028-ohm on
resistance,50A: 10 for $30 C8050 and C8550 transistors:
20 for $5, CMOS ICs 4001/11/13/16/17/20/24/28/40/46/6
0/66/69/93: Any mixture 10 for $8.
12V/7Ah GEL BATTERY BARGAIN
Fresh stock standard plus one GEL/LEAD-ACID BATTERY
CHARGER for $30.
HELIUM NEON LASER BARGAINS
Large 2-3mW He-Ne laser head plus a compact potted US
made laser power supply. The head plugs into the supply, and
two wires are connected to 240V mains. Needs 3-6V/5mA DC
to enable: $100.
Also 5mW tubes plus a 12V inverter kit: $80.
USED ARGON - ION LASER HEADS
The cheapest way to get a BLUE-GREEN LASER beam! A power
supply design for these is based on a transformer with 80V
<at> 10A and 3V <at> 20A secondaries. Ring or Email for more
information. Head only: $250.
AUDIO - VIDEO MONITOR
Compact high resolution 5" screen B/W audio and video
monitor. Has two way audio, built in microphone, audio
amplifier, speaker and pushbutton “talk” switch. Needs a
pre-amplifier and microphone for remote audio monitoring
(our 32mm audio preamplifier is ideal). Has two camera
inputs to allow manual or auto switching (adjustable speed)
between each camera. Needs 12V DC 1A (our switched mode
supply is ideal), size 160 x 190 x 150mm, has audio and video
outputs for connecting to a VCR etc. Monitor and 6-way mini
input connector only $125.
BEST “VALUE FOR MONEY” CCD CAMERA
The best “value for money” CCD camera on the market!
Tiny CCD camera, 0.1 lux, IR responsive, high resolution.
This camera has a metal lens housing (not plastic) and
performs better than many cheaper models. The pinhole
lensed version of this camera is also available for the
same price: $105.
KITS FOR CCD CAMERA SECURITY
New INTERFACE KIT FOR TIME LAPSE RECORDING: now has
relay contact outputs! Can be directly connected to a VCR or
via a learning remote control: $25 for PCB and all on-board
components, used PIR to suit: $12.
32mm 10 LED IR ILLUMINATOR new IR (880nm) LEDs have
an output about equal to our old 42 LED IR illuminator: $14.
32mm AUDIO PREAMPLIFIER. An $8 kit that produces a
“line level” signal from an electret microphone, connect the
output to our . . .
UHF VIDEO TRANSMITTER ($30) or $20 when bought with
the camera for a complete Audio-Video link.
MASTHEAD AMPLIFIER KIT
Our famous MAR-6 based masthead amplifier. 2-section PCB
(so power supply section can be indoors) and components kit
(KO3) $15. Suitable plugpack (PP2): $6 Weatherproof box:
(HB4) $2.50. Box for power supply: (HB1) $2.50 Rabbit-ears
antenna (RF2) $7 (MAR-6 available separately).
NICAD CHARGER & DISCHARGER
High quality commercial 7.2V Nicad charger and discharger
PCB assembly only. Switched mode design professional,
fully assembled and tested fast NICAD battery charger and
discharger PCB assembly. Switch mode circuit, surfaced
mounted on a double-sided PCB. Nominal unregulated input
13.7V DC, 900mA charge current. Appears to use voltage slope
detection for charge terminating, also has a timer (4060) to
terminate the charge. We supply a thermistor for temperature
sensing. For fast-charging 7.2V AA nicads. Basic information
provided, Incredible pricing: $9 ea. or 3 for $21.
VERY EFFICIENT WHITE LIGHT - LCD DISPLAY
New “second grade” (few missing pixels) Sharp 640 x
480 LCD display (LM64P722). Features a very efficient
long life cold cathode BL fluorescent lamp (5mm diam.,
150mm long), very easy to remove! Produces useful white
light at only about 1-3W AC input! Removing the display
will reveal a very uniformly lit backplane with an overall
size of 150 x 200mm. Complete display plus BL inverter
kit: (Needs 12V-150mA): $17. Data sheets (11pages) for
a similar display: $2.
NICAD BATTERY SPECIAL
New 1.2V-400mAhr cells wired in packs of 6, each pack has
a thermal cutout switch, each cell is 16 x 45 x 5mm, as used
in mobile phones, 5 packs (30 batteries) for: $10.
SOLAR REGULATOR
Ref: EA Nov/Dec 94 (intelligent battery charger). Efficiently
charge 12-24V batteries from solar panels but can also be
used with simple car battery chargers to prevent overcharging.
Extremely high efficiency due to the very efficient MOSFET
switch and Shottky isolation diode. We now offer a 7.5A or
15A kit: $26/$29 (K09).
MORE KITS
Geiger counter: $40, Breath tester: $40, 12V DC inverter
for driving compact fluoro lamps plus one CFL lamp: $35,
Music box: $11, Ding dong doorbell: $3.50, Siren using a
10cm speaker: $14, Electric fence using used car coil: $25
AMPLIFIER - PREAMPLIFIER AND MORE!
A professional mostly SM PCB that contains a 5W amplifier
based on a TDA1905 IC and a separate audio preamplifier
section. We also provide a prewired high quality unidirectional
electret microphone that has a wind filter and a mounting
clip. A small speaker and basic hook up information is also
included. Appears to have been designed for a communications system. Great for many applications including a two
way intercom (2 required) that does not require switching!
Available at less than the cost of the electret microphone:
$15 ea., 2 for $24.
OATLEY ELECTRONICS
PO Box 89, Oatley NSW 2223
Phone (02) 9584 3563
Fax (02) 9584 3561
orders by e-mail: oatley<at>world.net
WEB SITE: http://www.ozemail.com.au/~oatley
Major cards with phone and fax orders, P&P typically $6.
November 1997 71
Making old
ships go faster
Photo: Blohm + Voss GmbH
A new marine propulsion system using an
ABB motor and generator has boosted the
speed of three rebuilt US container ships
from 18 to 21 knots. Instead of “power take
off” (PTO), it makes use of the “power take
in” (PTI) concept to transmit 4000kW to the
ships’ main shafts.
Vessels (ACV). Ten years later, speed
has become the dominating factor for
these vessels, with large container capacities given only a second priority.
The most obvious way to increase
the speed of the ships was to reduce
their length and to equip each of them
with a new forebody and afterbody
plus a new propulsion plant. However, that idea was rejected as being
economically inviable.
Three US container ships were
recently upgraded at the Hamburg
shipyard of Blohm + Voss GmbH by
shortening the vessels and installing a
new marine propulsion system.
The reasons for the modifications to
the three vessels were straightforward.
Operators of container ships have had
to adjust to a vastly changed economic
situation in recent years. The need
today is for faster, smaller container
vessels with a capacity of 2500 to 6000
TEU (equivalent unit for 20-foot containers) and able to travel at a speed
SL-31 – a brand new concept
72 Silicon Chip
of at least 21 knots.
Recognising this trend, the SeaLand Division of CSX Corpo
ration
in the USA began looking for ways
to modernise its large and relatively
slow container ships. These were built
in Korea in the early 1980s for United
States Lines (USL).
The vessels, which when new were
among the most economical container
ships in service, originally had a storage capacity of approximately 3900
TEU and a speed of 18 knots. USL
operated the ships as Atlantic Class
The shipyard and shipowner
eventually agreed on a complete
ly
new concept. The project name that
was chosen was SL-31 (SL stands for
Sea-Land, 3 for 3000 TEU and 1 for
21 knots). It proposed a reduction in
the length of the ACV container ships
by three hatch groups (bringing their
length down from 279 metres to 248
metres), a more streamlined forebody
and a higher power rating for the
propeller.
Extensive calculations and tests
were carried out by the shipyard at
the HSVA marine test insti
tute in
Hamburg to make sure that a speed of
21 knots would actually be achieved.
An increase in the drive power rating
would be necessary, as would modifications to the shape of the forebody.
The changes that had to be made
to the body of the ship called for
precision work. For example, during
the removal of the midbody, a flamecut with a length of 330m had to be
made in one operation and with an
accuracy that would ensure that no
remachining of the storage structures
would be necessary after the forebody
and afterbody had been floated back
together again. In addition, the electrical power connections between the
two halves of the ship, involving about
350 cables and large numbers of pipes,
had to be separated.
After the midbody had been cut out
and temporary bulkheads had been
fitted, the forebody and the midbody
were floated and pulled out of the
dock by tugs. After this, the forebody
was moved to within about 300mm of
the afterbody. The dock was then floated again and the forebody pushed up
against the afterbody, aligned, tacked
and welded in place.
The most critical part of this operation was the manoeuvring and
alignment of the two halves. Very
high precision was necessary, as a
deviation of just a few millimetres
from the original longitudinal axis
would translate into a loss of speed.
Optical measuring equipment was
used to ensure a perfect fit.
It is worth remembering that the
Photo: Blohm + Voss GmbH
The “Sea-Land Pride” in Dock 10 after the forebody had been cut away and with
the midbody being prepared for removal. The photo on the facing page shows
the ship after conversion. Next to it, on the left, is the “Sea-Land Value”.
parts being manoeuvred weighed
several thousand tonnes and that they
had to be moved by tugs to precise
positions in the dock. This part of
the modernisation alone was a considerable achievement on the part of
the shipyard.
Increasing the drive power
A new approach was also necessary
for the upgrade of the propulsion
systems. The installed machines,
Sulzer 7 RLB 90 engines, were rated
at 20,590kW (100%) and 18,530kW
(90%). In order to run the ships at
21 knots without modifying the ves-
sels, it would have been necessary to
increase the engine power to about
30,000kW.
By streamlining the forebody
through hydrodynamic improve
ments, an initial power saving of
3700kW could be achieved. Also the
reduction in length by three hatch
groups reduced the ships’ frictional
resistance, allowing a further saving
of 1500kW (or 5200kW in total). This
meant that, to achieve the required
speed of 21 knots, an additional 38004000kW would have to be fed into the
propeller shaft system.
To raise the drive power rating to the
a
b
Fig.1: ACV container ship conversion based on the SL-31 concept: (a) forebody cut away and midbody
removed; (b) shortened ship with new forebody.
November 1997 73
Photo: Blohm + Voss GmbH
This photo shows the new, more streamlined forebody being fitted to the “SeaLand Pride”.
2
n = 102
min-1
New propeller
1
3
4
5
6
7
8
Fig.2: design of the new marine propulsion system with booster motor: (1)
Sulzer diesel engine, 20,588kW; (2) Controllable-pitch propeller; (3) Gearing;
(4) Booster motor, 4000kW; (5) Switchboard, 6.6kV; (6) Wartsila diesel engine,
4860kW; (7) Generator, 4374kW; (8) To bow thruster, 1800kW.
2940
7700
2860
1
ø 620
2
Fig.3: shaft arrangement for the booster motor and tunnel gearing: (1) Booster
motor; (2) Tunnel gearing.
74 Silicon Chip
required level, Blohm + Voss GmbH
developed a new, unconventional
concept that “reverses” the standard
shaft generator system commonly in
use. Previously, electrical power has
been fed into the onboard power system from the main machine by means
of a gear system with an attached
generator.
The new drive makes use of the
“power take in” instead of “power take
off” concept (Fig.2). In this method,
4000kW is transmitted via a 6.6kV
electric motor to the main drive shaft
by means of tunnel gearing which is
flanged via a Vulcan coupling to the
flywheel of the main machine (see
Fig.3). The electric motor is fed with
4860kW (100%) or 4374kW (90%)
from an additional Wartsila-Diesel
generator set with a 6MVA alternator.
The high-voltage switchgear and diesel-generator set are installed in a new
engine room on the main deck. Many
new, innovative control features were
required to link the slow-speed main
machine to the electric motor via the
tunnel gearing.
The power is transmitted to the water by a new controllable pitch propeller with a diameter of 7.1 metres. This
propeller can absorb up to 24,400kW
which is also the maximum power
transmitted to the shaft. Although
the new propeller is 0.5m smaller in
diameter than the original unit, its
special shape enables it to produce
20% more power.
Using the machine data as a basis,
the propeller power was calculated to
be 19,160kW. Tests with a draught of
10m and a speed of 21 knots showed
the power demand to be 18,639kW,
giving a safety margin of 521kW. After converting this extra power into
speed, the maximum predicted speed
possible is 21.2 knots.
Booster drive system
As with many seemingly simple
solutions, it was the small details
that caused the main problems. A
slow-speed diesel engine with oscillating torque had never before been
combined with a constant-torque
electric motor on a propeller shaft. To
protect the electric motor and gearing
system from the vibrations caused by
the main machine, tunnel gearing was
chosen. This transmits the electric
motor power via a multi-disc clutch
to the gear system and then via a Vulcan coupling direct to the flywheel of
the main machine and the propeller
shaft. The energy flow in the shaft is
shown in Fig.4.
To enable the two different systems
to be used together, new automatic
controls had to be developed for the
drive system. These had to be completely reliable in every operating
mode. This problem alone presented
a major challenge, especially in view
of the limited time that was available
for the development work. For this
particular application, a new digital
control system was installed.
The new main-machine/booster
system was rigorously tested by the
US Coast Guard (USCG) and the
American Bureau of Shipping (ABS)
with the help of Failure Mode Effective Analysis (FMEA). This involved
a run-through of all possible service
profiles, both in the dock and at sea,
to ensure the safety and reliability of
the booster system.
The new electrical auxiliary system
for the booster installation receives its
power from the booster diesel-generator set via a 6600/480V, 500kVA
transformer.
Photo: Blohm + Voss GmbH
The new booster generator is used to feed an additional 4000kW (before losses)
to the main drive shaft.
87 kW Electrical loss
Self-supporting system
400 kW
Booster drives bow thruster
Since the booster diesel-generator is
not required for docking manoeuvres
or when the ships are in port, it can
also be used to drive the newly installed ABB bow thruster. Thus, the
booster diesel-generator has two tasks
in that it supplies: (1). additional
energy for the main drive (PTI); and
(2). drive power for the bow thruster.
The diesel-generator set supplies
power to a 6.6kV substation with load
feeders to the booster motor, the bow
thruster and an auxiliary transformer.
For this project, the Marine, Oil and
Gas Industry Division of ABB Indust
rietechnik AG supplied the electrical
booster plant, the electrical equipment
for the bow thruster and all of the
cabling for the electrical systems.
During the conversion, it was necessary, among other things, to shorten
all of the cables to the forebody. This
involved cutting a 40m-long section
out of approximately 350 cables and
then reconnecting the cables using
heatshrink joints. This work was carried out in close collaboration with
the shipyard and the suppliers of the
other systems to ensure full compliance with ABS and USCG regulations.
80 kW
Electrical
loss
Booster
motor
4000 kW
159 kW
Gear loss
210 kW
Shaft loss
Alternator
Wärtsilä6000 kVA Diesel engine 12R 32
4860 kW
Main engine
Sulzer
7 RLB 90
20,588 kW
Gearing
3822 kW
24,410 kW
20,588 kW
Sea margin 3184 kW
Fig.4: energy flow in the propeller shaft.
Sea trials with the first ship to be
completed, the Sea-Land Pride (formerly Galveston Bay), were carried
out in the summer of 1994 and underscored the success of the project. The
vessel, which had been running with
a speed of 18 knots, achieved 19 knots
without the booster system and almost
22 knots with it. In the same year,
its two sister ships, Sea-Land Value
and Raleigh Bay, were also handed
over to the customer after successful
SC
conversions.
Acknowledgement: this article has been
adapted from an article that appeared in
the March 1997 issue of ABB Review,
published by Asea Brown Boveri Ltd.
November 1997 75
VINTAGE RADIO
By JOHN HILL
The 4-valve Airzone superhet
During the 1930s era, large TRF receivers in
huge cabinets were very popular and
remained that way for some time. However,
the depression years saw many changes in
radio manufacture and these hard times
spawned a variety of smaller and cheap
er receivers.
Making a successful low-cost radio
meant cutting back and although the
5-valve receiver was the accepted
norm of the day, some manufacturers produced 4-valvers – something
that was not all that practical at the
time. While quite reasonable 4-valve
receivers were common in the 1940s
and 1950s, their predecessors of the
early 1930s were sadly lacking in performance. Nevertheless, the 4-valve
superhets were considerably better
than their TRF counterparts.
The 4-valve Airzone
This month’s story is about an
early Airzone 4-valve mantel style
superhet of about 1933 vintage. It
was bought in a fairly
sad state of repair and
although a few whispers
(whimpers) came forth
from the loudspeaker, one
could not really say that
the set was working.
The Airzone’s valve
line up is as follows:
80 rectifier, 57 autodyne
mixer, 58 intermediate
frequency amplifier and
59 output pentode, the latter used as a combined anode bend
detector and output stage.
The Airzone has an intermediate
frequency of 465kHz, which means
that the 3-gang tuning capacitor
The budget-priced Airzone has no dial escutcheon.
Instead, it features two routed grooves around a heartshaped peephole dial aperture.
76 Silicon Chip
The Airzone
4-valve superhet,
circa 1933. A semi-gloss lacquer
treatment seemed appropriate for the
age of the receiver.
The speaker grille cloth was reversed so that its clean side
showed through the front of the cabinet. This trick is well
worth remembering if you are restoring an old receiver.
and bandpass filter used on early
super
hets with 175kHz IFs were
not required. That in itself would
amount to a worthwhile reduction
in production costs.
Anode bend detection had been
used in radio receivers for some time
and was the current trend when the
Airzone was made. However, using
this method of detection on the
output valve was a departure from
the normal practice of putting the
detector ahead of the output stage.
Anode bend problems
Using the output valve as an anode
bend detector creates a number of
problems. First, because the valve is
biased to work near cut off, its plate
current is considerably reduced.
This means that the set requires an
output transformer with a much
higher than normal primary impedance, otherwise its output power will
be well down compared to that from
a conventional class-A output stage.
Second, because of the reduced
plate current, there is insufficient
current flowing through the field
coil to adequately energise the
speaker magnet, if a standard 2kΩ
field resistance is used. This speaker
problem was overcome by employing a tapped high resistance winding. Other 4-valve receivers did use
standard speakers but the circuit was
designed to bleed off sufficient high
tension current to energise the field.
It wasn’t until diode detection
came into general use that the output
valve was used as a conventional
output stage in these early 4-valve
superhet receivers. When diode
detection was used, the diodes were
usually enclosed in the IF amplifier valve. The old 6B7 and type 55
valves had built-in diodes and were
much used during the mid-1930s.
But let’s return to the old Airzone.
Budget market
This receiver was undoubtedly
aimed at the budget end of the market. Its manufacture was so cost-effective that the lightweight plywood
cabinet has no dial escutcheon and
relies on a routed shape in the front
panel to substitute for this common
embellishment. Most receivers of
that era had either a pressed brass
or moulded bakelite escutcheon but
not the old Airzone!
The dial pointer takes the form of
This view shows the front of the chassis after the restoration work had been
completed.
This rear view shows the chassis inside the cabinet. The old receiver cleaned up
quite well, despite its initial condition.
a heart-shaped peephole cut into the
front panel. If a radio manufacturer
was to survive in the early 1930s he
had to trim costs in every way imaginable. Airzone successfully did this
and was still making radios well into
the post-war period.
The speaker is the original Magnavox 150D, a 6-inch (150mm) electrodynamic type with a tapped field
winding. The field winding has an
impedance of 6kΩ and is tapped at
3.5kΩ. The original high-impedance
output transformer was still attached
to the speaker.
Fortunately, both the tapped field
and the output transform
e r were
still in working order. As might be
expected, these somewhat rare items
are difficult to find and expensive to
buy or have rewound.
The IF transformers are mounted
November 1997 77
– wet type was replaced with a new
10µF 500V unit.
The wirewound voltage divider
and cathode bias resistors are unusual in that they are wound like a
bunched filament in a light globe,
thus making very compact units.
Also of unusual design is the type
59 output pentode in that it has two
cathodes and a suppressor grid that
connects to a separate base pin. Even
with one heater out of action, the old
59 will still work reasonably well.
While most other pentodes have the
suppressor grid connected internally
to the cathode and use a 6-pin base,
the 59 has a pin connection for the
suppressor and a large 7-pin base.
Anode bend detector
All the bias resistors in the old Airzone are wirewound.
on top of the chassis in large aluminium cans and are adjusted by trimmer
capacitors.
The aerial and oscillator coils are
also mounted in large aluminium
cans. These are underneath the chassis and occupy approximately one
third of the available space below.
They hinder access to some of the
valve sockets and wiring.
The high tension setup is unusual
in that the voltages are extremely high
(460V at the rectifier) and only one
filter capacitor, an 8µF electrolytic on
the input side of the field winding,
is used. The original – and defunct
The type 59 output pentode has a
large 7-pin base which gives the
suppressor its own pin connection.
The output/detector has a very
high cathode resistor of around 4kΩ,
which operates the valve near its cutoff point. This is necessary for a valve
operating as an anode bend detector.
When set up in this manner there
will be pulses of anode current during positive half-cycles at the control
grid and little or no current during
negative half-cycles. Thus, the valve
rectifies or detects the radio frequency signal applied to its control grid.
Inserting a milliamp meter in the
output valve’s cathode connection
was an interesting experiment.
Total valve current varied between
6-10mA, depending on the signal
strength at the control grid. If set up
as a normal class-A output stage, a 59
would pass about 44mA. The cathode
bias voltage is around 40V.
Another point worth mentioning is
the fact that, because of the low current flow, the valve does not operate
at a very high temperature. One can
grasp it firmly without being burnt.
Even the rectifier works much cooler
but is still too hot to hold for long.
Plate voltages throughout the Air
zone are extremely high, with 320V
on the 57, 350V on the 58 and 360V
on the 59. I guess that’s one way of
squeezing out that extra performance.
Repairs
A great deal of the under-chassis space is taken up by the aerial and oscillator
coils. These units restrict access to several valve sockets, making voltage checks
quite difficult.
78 Silicon Chip
The repairs involved replacing the
paper capacitors and the previously
mentioned 8µF electrolytic. Due to
the high tension supply being so
elevated, 630V capacitors were used
throughout as some would be stressed
at close to 500V potentials during the
warm-up period.
Vintage Radio
Repairs
Sales
Valves
Books
Spare Parts
See the specialists
* Stock constantly changing.
* Top prices paid for good quality
vintage wireless and audio amps.
* Friendly, reliable expert service.
Call in or send SSAE for
our current catalogue
The power cord and speaker leads share a common grommet. The speaker has
no plug and is wired directly into the circuit.
RESURRECTION
RADIO
242 Chapel Street (PO Box 2029)
PRAHRAN, VIC 3181
Tel (03) 9510 4486 Fax (03) 9529 5639
The answers! to
260,000 questions,
ALL in one book!
This view shows the 80 rectifier and the 59 output detector. Note also the large
IF transformer and the single wet type electrolytic capacitor.
The cabinet required the usual
re-gluing treatment and was refinished in semi-gloss. The speaker
grille cloth was dirty but otherwise in
reasonable condition. Turning it back
to front soon solved that problem.
All things considered, the old
4-valve superhet Airzone is a fairly
unusual receiver when compared to
the 4-valvers that followed in the diode
detection era. While it was originally
marketed as an economy model, it is
nevertheless a very collectible item
today – particularly as it is housed in
a “Cathedral” style cabinet and retains
SC
its original speaker setup.
The largest range of replacement semiconductors in the industry! Call now
to get your new NTE cross reference
book for just $25.
Stewart Electronic Components
P/L
P.O. Box 281 Oakleigh 3166
phone (03)9543-3733 fax (03)9543-7238
November 1997 79
COMPUTER BITS
BY JASON COLE
Relocating your CD-ROM drive
Windows 95 works well but how do
you correct the problem of adding a
new hard disc drive that wants to live
where the CD-ROM currently lives?
Hard disc drives (HDDs) have dramatically increased in size in the last
couple of years, while prices have
gone the other way. The only problem
is that when you buy your new HDD,
it generally becomes the secondary or
D: drive while the older unit is kept as
the C: drive (so that you don’t have to
reinstall the operating system). This is
fine except that your CD-ROM is now
assigned the next drive letter along
the chain which is E:.
Of course, if the CD-ROM had been
assigned a higher drive letter such as
R: in the first place, then all would
be well. It would retain its drive assignment when extra hard disc drives
were added and the problem simply
would not arise.
But why is it a problem if your CDROM is shuffled from D: to E: when a
new HDD is added? The answer is that
Fig.1: right click My Computer, then click Properties and
select the Device Manager tab to bring up this dialog box.
80 Silicon Chip
any program that was originally installed from the CD-ROM, and which
refers back to the CD-ROM while it is
running, will no longer work. When
it’s time to load that wonderful game
called “LightHouse” (or whatever),
it will go to the drive assignment
where it thinks the CD-ROM is and
find the new hard disc drive instead.
And that means no fancy graphics or
anything else. In short, “it ain’t gonna
work mate”.
One way to correct this problem is
to reinstall all the CD-ROM based software. However, this might not work
out too well. Any patches will also
have to be reinstalled and this can be
time consuming and troublesome with
some of the older software packages.
A more elegant way to solve the
Fig.2: double-click the CD-ROM option so that it expands
to show the currently installed CD-ROM drive.
Fig.3 (left): selecting the CD-ROM drive, then clicking
Properties and selecting the Settings tab brings up this
dialog box. The current drive assignment is shown towards
the bottom and you can change it by clicking the down
arrows and selecting a new assignment (eg, R:).
Fig.4: you launch the Registry Editor by clicking Start,
Run and typing regedit on the Open line.
problem is to change all pointers to
the old D: drive to the new CD-ROM
assignment. This is done by delving
into the subterranean depths of the
Registry. Now I know that I have
warned about the dangers of delving
into the Registry in the past but there
are times when it is necessary.
Back it up
Now remember, the Registry is
really, really important to the correct
operation of Windows 95. For this
reason, make a backup of it first so
that you can restore it if you make a
mistake. The Computer Bits column
in the September 1997 issue tells you
how to make Registry backups.
Also, make sure Windows 95 is
working correctly in the first place.
It’s pointless fixing the brakes if the
wheels are square!
Before starting, I have found that
it’s best if the CD-ROM is changed to
another drive assignment before you
install the second hard disc drive. To
do this in Windows 95, just follow
these simple steps:
(1). Right click on My Computer (on
the desktop) and select Properties to
bring up the Systems Properties box.
(2) Click the Device Manager tab
to bring up the dialog box shown in
Fig.5 (below): this is the window that
appears when you launch the Registry
Editor. Be sure to back the registry up
first before making any changes, as
the registry is vital to the operation of
Windows 95.
November 1997 81
Fig.6: you can
search for all
occurrences of D:
in the Registry by
pressing CTRL F
to bring up the
Find dialog box.
Fig.1, then Double click on the CDROM option. The CD-ROM option
will expand to show your currently
installed CD-ROM (Fig.2).
(3) Click once on your CD-ROM
and then click the Properties button.
A new box will open and you should
now click the Settings tab to bring up
a box similar to that shown in Fig.3.
(4) Towards the bottom of this box,
you will see a section which shows
the current CD-ROM drive assignment
and just below that some settings for
reserving a drive letter. At this stage,
the latter will probably have no assignment selected.
To select an assignment, click on
NORBITON SYSTEMS
NS_PC101 card for XT/AT/PCs
allows access to 48 I/O lines.
There are 5 groups (0 to 4)
available on a de-facto industrial
standard 50-way ribbon cable
used in STEbus and VMEbus
19" rack mount control systems.
The board uses 2 x 8255 ICs.
Multiple boards can be used if
more I/O lines are required.
NS_LED PCB gives visual
access to five groups (0 to 4) of
the NS_PC1OX. There is a total
of 40 status LEDs. The board
offers a 25-way “D” type female
socket. The lines are driven by
74244 ICs & configured as a
parallel printer port. This socket
gives access to printer port kits,
eg, stepper motors, LCDs, direct
digital synthesis.
NS_16_8 PCB is a system conditioning card with 16 optically
isolated inputs set-up for either
12V or 24V operation. The board
provides 8 single pole, double
throw relays with 10 Amp contact rating.
For brochure write to:
Reply Paid 68
82 Silicon Chip
the Start Drive Letter down arrow. A
list of available assignments will now
appear. Select a new assignment (R:
is always a good drive letter assign
ment for a CD-ROM drive) and the
End Drive Letter will automatically
select R: as well.
(5) Click OK to close the dialog box
and save the new assignment, then
click OK on the Device Manager box
to close it. You will now be prompted
to reset your computer so that the new
changes will work.
Let’s hack the Registry
Now that we’ve assigned a new
drive letter to the CD-ROM, let’s
KITS & CARDS
NS_DC_DC is a step down
converter with an input range
11 to 35V DC and an output of
5 volts DC at 5 Amps, with an
output ripple of approx 150mV.
There is an IN/OUT 50-way
connector isolating the 5V and
12V+ &12V- rails of the PC
power supply. This segregates
PC’s power when working on
prototypes.
NSDC_DC1 module used with
NS_DC_DC & NSDC_DC4
converters is a 5V to 12V(+/-)
step- up converter. The board
utilises 743 switch mode IC with
2 x 12V regulators, with output
ripple of approx 200mV.
NS_UTIL1 prototyping board
has 1580 bread board holes access to any 3 groups (0 to 4) on
the 50-way cable pinout. Power
is available from the 50-way
cable format 5 volts at 2 Amps
& 12V+ 12V- at 1 Amp. There
is provision for array resistors
with either a ground or positive
common connection.
NORBITON SYSTEMS
PO Box 687
Rockingham WA 6968
open the Registry Editor. There is no
shortcut to the Registry Editor on the
Taskbar, so we must launch it using
the Run command. To do this, click
the Start button, select Run, type Regedit and press return (Fig.4)
The Registry Editor will load and
you see a window just like that shown
in Fig.5.
Now select (highlight) My Computer and press Ctrl F for the search
engine. A window like that shown
in Fig.6 will pop up and you should
then type in D: and click the Find
Next button. It will now go through
the Registry and find any occurrence
of D:.
Be careful, because it will also find
other values that match this criterion
such as Dword:
It is wise not to set the search up so
that it only matches the whole string
because it can miss some setup options. Searching for D: should locate
both D: and D:/, as well as D:/progra~1
and so on.
This sounds easy and it actually
is. All you really have to do is think
about what you are changing.
In order to make the actual changes, you utilise the right click option
Protect Your Valuable Issues
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Chip
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lettering on spine & cover
Price: $A11.95 plus $A3 p&p each (NZ $A8 p&p).
Just fill in & mail the handy order form in this issue; or
fax (02) 9979 6503; or ring (02) 9979 5644 & quote your
credit card number.
Fig.7: each time you find an old drive assignment (ie, D:), right click on the
name and then click Modify so that you can make the necessary changes to the
Data.
on the mouse. Each time you find
an old drive assignment, you right
click on the Name and then left click
on Modify so that you can make the
necessary changes to the Data. To
change the Name (should that also
be incorrect), you select the Rename
option – see Fig.7.
Do not make any other changes except to the drive assignment, as changing the path will cause problems that
can only be corrected by reinstalling
the affected software.
Once you have made the necessary
changes, click the Find Next button
(or press F3) to automatically search
for the next occurrence of D:. Once
all the changes have been made, you
can then check for any missed assignments by highlighting “My Computer”
and pressing F3 to initiate a complete
new search from the top. This may
take a while to do as the Registry can
be quite large.
When all is done, check it out by
loading your favourite CD-ROM based
game and see if it works. Most programs should run fine but remember
to check out your System.ini and Win.
ini files for programs that were written
for Windows 3.x and edit any path
entries accordingly. You should also
inspect any .ini files that are specific
to those programs and edit these if
necessary.
If a program still refuses to work,
then reinstall it and everything should
be OK. Saved game points should still
be there as will all your important documents. The changes we have made
only affect the programs themselves
SC
and not your saved data.
Tip: Send Files Straight To The Recycle
Bin; Do Not Click “Yes” To Confirm
Sick of clicking “yes” in the confirmation box that pops up each
time you press the delete key or drag files to the Recycle Bin?
Then turn it off.
To do this, right-click the Recycle Bin and click Properties from
the resulting drop-down menu to bring up the dialog box shown in
Fig.8. Now clear the “Display Delete Confirmation Box” option and
click OK to close the box.
Now when you delete files, they will go straight to the Recycle
Bin. Don’t worry about deleting the wrong stuff because it is all in
the Recycle Bin and can be retrieved if necessary until the bin is
cleared. You will still be prompted if you want to delete an appli
cations (*.exe) file, however. This is because application files are
considered more important than others.
By the way, you can also use the Recycle Bin Properties dialog
box to set the maximum size of the Recycle Bin (as a percentage
of disc size). If you have two hard disc drives, you can either use
the same percentage for both or set them independently.
November 1997 83
SILICON
CHIP
This page is blank because it contained
advertising which is now out of date and the
page has been removed to prevent
misunderstandings.
SILICON
CHIP
This page is blank because it contained
advertising which is now out of date and the
page has been removed to prevent
misunderstandings.
SILICON
CHIP
This page is blank because it contained
advertising which is now out of date and the
page has been removed to prevent
misunderstandings.
SILICON
CHIP
This page is blank because it contained
advertising which is now out of date and the
page has been removed to prevent
misunderstandings.
SILICON
CHIP
This page is blank because it contained
advertising which is now out of date and the
page has been removed to prevent
misunderstandings.
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Write to: Ask Silicon Chip, PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097.
BassBox software:
where do you get it?
I was really interested in the Bass
Barrel subwoofer de
scribed in the
August 1997 issue of SILICON CHIP.
In particular, I’m interested in the
BassBox software. Can you tell me
who distributes it in Australia and
how much is it? (P. T., Rutherford,
NSW).
• The distributor for BassBox software
is Earthquake Audio, PO Box 226,
Balgowlah, NSW 2116. Phone (02)
9949 8071; fax (02) 9949 8073. We
reviewed the BassBox 5.1 software in
the June 1996 issue of SILICON CHIP.
Back issues are available at $7 each
including postage.
By the way, we have had a number
of enquiries wanting to know if we
have published a subwoofer amplifier and the answer is no. But we did
publish a subwoofer controller in the
December 1995 issue (as mentioned in
the article) and that could be teamed
with virtually any power amplifier. On
the other hand, if you wish to use the
Bass Barrel in a Dolby Pro-Logic Sur-
Pros & cons of high
voltage transistor
I am writing with an enquiry
about the High Energy Ignition
described in the May & June 1988
issues of SILICON CHIP. Is it possible to use a standard 2N3055
power transistor instead of the very
expensive MJ10012? The current
rating is nowhere near that of the
MJ10012, however, from what I
can work out, the current through
the primary circuit never comes
anywhere near this, probably more
like 1A rather than the 15A of the
MJ10012.
The back EMF may be a problem
however more of the zeners should
alleviate this problem. Also to
increase the spark duration can I
round Sound system, you don’t need
a subwoofer controller. Just hook the
subwoofer power amplifier’s input to
the subwoofer output on the decoder
(or Dolby receiver) and you’re ready
to go.
While we are on the subject, some
readers have discussed the Bass Barrel
with hifi dealers and have been told
that it would be not satisfactory because it was not an “active” system. In
fact, when the Bass Barrel is teamed
with its own power amplifier, it is an
“active” system.
Stabilising a
12V supply
My house is on a 12V DC system
and wherever possible everything runs
on 12V except power tools, for which
I use an inverter. The problem arises
with items like a laptop computer.
Now it is possible to use the inverter
with the 240VAC adaptor but at the
lower loads of a laptop, say 20-30W,
the use of a moderately large inverter
(660W) at such a low load is inefficient. In effect, the consumption at the
just change capacitor C1? (A. M.,
Bayswater, Vic).
• The 2N3055 is completely unsuitable for an ignition system. The
peak current through the coil can
be expected to be around 5A while
the peak voltage is limited to 300V
by the four 75V zener diodes. These
conditions are far in excess of what
can be handled by a 2N3055. We
understand that the MJ10012 is
normally fairly expensive but you
can presently buy it from Rod Irving Electronics at $7.95.
We do not recommend that you
modify the circuit in an attempt to
increase the spark duration. This is
a function of energy storage in the
coil and since the circuit has dwell
extension, no effective increase in
duration can be obtained.
TOROIDAL POWER
TRANSFORMERS
Manufactured in Australia
Comprehensive data available
Harbuch Electronics Pty Ltd
9/40 Leighton Pl. HORNSBY 2077
Ph (02) 9476-5854 Fx (02) 9476-3231
battery system is a lot higher than the
20-odd watts of the laptop.
I do have an old Toshiba 286 which
fortunately runs off 12V DC. However, whilst at first glance it seems my
troubles are over, in reality they’re
not. The battery bank voltage can
fluc
tuate throughout the day and
night. By day as the battery comes
up to charge, the voltage may reach
13V. And at night as lights and the
laptop drain the system, the voltage
begins to fall.
It is not unusual for the system to
crash and keyed-in text is lost if not
stored on the hard disc. The problem is therefore twofold, to produce
a variable DC voltage in the range
12-24V DC, and second, to achieve a
stable supply. Can you help? (R. O.,
Wittenoom, WA).
• To stabilise your 12V supply, we
suggest you try the 2A SLA battery
charger published in the July 1996
issue. It may be advisable to connect a
1000µF 16VW capacitor at the output
as well.
Expansion in
amplifier heatsink
I am very enthusiastic about your
new 500W amplifier as described in
November 1997 89
Fig.1: this modified circuit of the High Energy Ignition System is suitable for use with cars that have a positive earth
electrical system. The changes are to the trigger circuit.
High energy ignition
for an old Jaguar
I have constructed and installed
four of your High Energy Ignition
kits with great success and satisfaction. They really are all they are
cracked up to be.
A friend of mine with a 1947
Mark IV Jaguar asked me if I could
fit one to his car, which has (+) positive earth. Is this possible? If not,
would it be possible to modify the
the August, September & October 1997
issues. I have purchased all 28 bipolar
transistors and am currently sourcing
the other components. I may be wrong
(please forgive me if I am) but to have
the 14 bipolars terminated so close to
the PC board and secured to such a
long heatsink, I feel that at above 80°C
the thermal expansion of the heatsink
may want to place the bipolar transistors at a greater pitch (and something
has to give) and damage the solder
joints to the PC board or the transistors
themselves.
Just a thought, but should the full
length of transistor legs be used or
perhaps flying leads to the transistors?
(L. L., Carrum Downs, Vic).
• The potential problem lies in the
differing coefficients of expansion
of the aluminium heatsink and the
copper laminate of the PC board. The
90 Silicon Chip
kit in some way? (P. T., Vaucluse,
NSW).
• We assume that the car in question has a 12V battery and the
existing ignition system does not
have a ballast resistor. This should
be the case for an English car of
that vintage. That being the case, it
should be a straightforward matter
to adapt the circuit of the High Energy Ignition system. In effect, the
positive side of the circuit goes to
the case, to match the car’s electri-
practical temperature range to be considered is about 70°C, say from 15°C
ambient to about 85°C, by which temperature the thermal cutout should
have operated to disconnect the load.
If you then take the difference between
the coefficients of expansion of aluminium and the PC board and allow
for quite effective heat transfer via the
transistor leads to the PC board, the
differences in expansion for the worst
case transistor (at the extreme ends of
the heatsink) should be no more than
about .07mm.
Given that the transistors have single hole mounting which does allow
for some movement, we are inclined
to the view that there is not a problem.
Of course, if readers are concerned,
they can increase the lead length of
the transistors to allow for a little more
compliance.
cal system, and the negative supply
comes from the ignition switch.
However, the points themselves
do present a problem because they
pull the points input high, instead
of low, as for a negative-chassis car.
The solution is to add a PNP transistor to invert the points switching
signal. The accompanying circuit
(Fig.1) should do the job. The extra
components can be fitted on the
existing PC board; there is vacant
position for a transistor.
We strongly recommend against increasing the lead length by using flying
leads as it might result in supersonic
oscillation.
Drift in the
FM Stereo Transmitter
I need your help please with the
FM Stereo Transmitter, as described
in the October 1988 issue of SILICON
CHIP. The problem is that it “drifts”
off station, either over a period of five
minutes or an hour or simply after
switching off and then back on again.
I then have to readjust either the L1 or
L2 slug or both.
When I first switched on and check
ed the voltage across pins 3 & 15 and
then started adjusting the slugs (with
a plastic screwdriver), I found that
“breathing” on the 1.5 turns of copper
wire would upset the adjustment. I
then “fixed” the turns with a dab of
nail polish. L1 is very touchy; L2 takes
maybe only 1/16 turn to reset. As I
only need to “transmit” over about
three metres I used the single wire
antenna but even so it works well over
20 metres. (K. C., Balgownie, NSW).
• The drift in frequency of transmission is probably due to the capacitance
change of the tuning capacitors with
temperature.
Make sure that the 47pF capacitors
across L1 and L2, the 15pF capacitors
on pins 9 and 10 and the 4.7pF capacitor at pin 10 are NPO types. These
will be labelled “NPO” or with a black
dot. NPO stands for “Negative Positive
Zero”. This means that the tempera
ture coefficient of capacitance is zero
for the normal operating temperature
range.
You can expect to affect the tuning
when the antenna is held with your
finger and thumb. This is because it
alters the capacitance of the tuned
circuit.
Using a transducer
with the speed control
I am interested in using the 12-24V
Motor Speed Controller featured in
the June 1997 issue of SILICON CHIP.
However, I wish to use the output from
a MAP sensor in a car to control the
speed of a 12V fan. The MAP sensor
has an output range of zero to 5V and I
wish to obtain full fan speed when the
MAP sensor output is 5V. Furthermore,
I would like to introduce an adjustable
offset, so that the MAP sensor might
produce a voltage of say, 1.5V, before
the fan operated. Can this wish list be
achieved or is it all a dream? (G. B.,
Unley, SA).
• While we did not make provision
for this sort of application it turns out
to be relatively easy to do and just by
adding one resistor. By connecting a
Don’t overdrive
the Bass Barrel
I intend to construct the Bass
Barrel Subwoofer from the August
1997 issue but I need further information. Firstly, what is the power
requirement to drive this unit? Also
what is the maximum (safe) power
the unit can handle? Can you recommend a suitable amplifier kit?
What passive low-pass filter could
be used in place of the active one
briefly alluded to in the arti
cle?
Thank you. (G. P., NT).
• The specified woofers have a
maximum rated power input of 75W
and since they are in parallel, the
Bass Barrel would have a nominal
maximum input power of 150W.
However, we do not think it would
be safe to drive them at these high
levels for anything more than a brief
interval otherwise you run the risk
68kΩ resistor from your transducer to
the pin 2 of IC1, the motor will have
12V applied to it, as set by VR1, for
an input of 5V from the transducer.
Furthermore, the initial offset will be
1.5V, so the effective input range is
from 1.5V to 5V.
By changing the resistor to 100kΩ,
the offset can be reduced to 0.3V and
if you reduced the resistor to 47kΩ,
the offset is increased to 2.5V.
Notes & Errata
Flexible Interface Card, July 1997;
Stepper Motor Con
troller, August
1997; and PC Card For Two Stepper
Motors, September 1997: in the circuit
of each of these boards the resistor
from pin 4 of IC1 is shown going to
ground. This is how the PC boards
of blowing them. In fact, we have
heard of a number of instances
where people have done just that.
Note that this unit was originally
designed for cars and is also suitable
for small lounge rooms but if you
use it in a large room and wind up
the wick, you are bound to pay the
penalty.
A suitable amplifier module
would be the 125/175W design
featured in the April 1996 issue.
This could be teamed with the
subwoofer controller featured in
the December 1995 issue of SILICON
CHIP but remember our warning
about winding up the wick. An
alternative amplifier would be the
50W unit described in March 1994.
Alternatively, if you intend using
the Bass Barrel in a Dolby Surround
system, you could use the Dolby
subwoofer output to drive the Bass
Barrel amplifier.
will be supplied. The resistor should
go to the +5V supply, which is pin 16
of IC1. On each board it is quite simple
to move the ground end of the resistor
to the positive supply after drilling
one hole.
If you are only using a single board
this may not be a problem, although
we do suggest that you move the 10kΩ
resistor so that it is wired between
pins 4 and 16.
The problem shows up when you
are using several cards with different
addresses on the same printer port and
start changing these addresses.
Low Dropout 5V Regulator, Circuit
Notebook, October 1997: This circuit
has the emitter and collector of Q1
reversed. The emitter should go to the
+9V supply and the collector should
SC
connect to the 5V output.
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such projects should
be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be carried out according to the
instructions in the articles. When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with
mains AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages or other high voltages,
you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability for damages should anyone be killed
or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of SILICON CHIP magazine. Devices or circuits described in SILICON
CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of
any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims any liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant government
regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the Trade Practices Act
1974 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are applicable.
November 1997 91
Silicon Chip
Back Issues
September 1988: Hands-Free Speakerphone; Electronic Fish
Bite Detector; High Performance AC Millivoltmeter, Pt.2; Build
The Vader Voice.
April 1989: Auxiliary Brake Light Flasher; What You Need to
Know About Capacitors; 32-Band Graphic Equaliser, Pt.2; The
Story Of Amtrak Passenger Services.
May 1989: Build A Synthesised Tom-Tom; Biofeedback Monitor
For Your PC; Simple Stub Filter For Suppressing TV Interference; The Burlington Northern Railroad.
July 1989: Exhaust Gas Monitor; Experimental Mains Hum
Sniffers; Compact Ultrasonic Car Alarm; The NSW 86 Class
Electrics.
September 1989: 2-Chip Portable AM Stereo Radio (Uses
MC13024 and TX7376P) Pt.1; High Or Low Fluid Level Detector;
Studio Series 20-Band Stereo Equaliser, Pt.2.
October 1989: FM Radio Intercom For Motorbikes Pt.1; GaAsFet
Preamplifier For Amateur TV; 2-Chip Portable AM Stereo Radio,
Pt.2; A Look At Australian Monorails.
November 1989: Radfax Decoder For Your PC (Displays Fax,
RTTY & Morse); FM Radio Intercom For Motorbikes, Pt.2;
2-Chip Portable AM Stereo Radio, Pt.3; Floppy Disc Drive
Formats & Options; The Pilbara Iron Ore Railways.
December 1989: Digital Voice Board; UHF Remote Switch;
Balanced Input & Output Stages; Operating an R/C Transmitter;
Index to Vol. 2.
January 1990: High Quality Sine/Square Oscillator; Service
Tips For Your VCR; Phone Patch For Radio Amateurs; Active
Antenna Kit; Designing UHF Transmitter Stages.
February 1990: A 16-Channel Mixing Desk; Build A High
Quality Audio Oscillator, Pt.2; The Incredible Hot Canaries;
Random Wire Antenna Tuner For 6 Metres; Phone Patch For
Radio Amateurs, Pt.2.
March 1990: Delay Unit For Automatic Antennas; Workout Timer
For Aerobics Classes; 16-Channel Mixing Desk, Pt.2; Using The
UC3906 SLA Battery Charger IC; The Australian VFT Project.
June 1991: A Corner Reflector Antenna For UHF TV; 4-Channel
Lighting Desk, Pt.1; 13.5V 25A Power Supply For Transceivers,
Pt.2; Active Filter For CW Reception; Tuning In To Satellite TV.
July 1991: Loudspeaker Protector For Stereo Amplifiers;
4-Channel Lighting Desk, Pt.2; How To Install Multiple TV Outlets, Pt.2; Tuning In To Satellite TV, Pt.2; The Snowy Mountains
Hydro Scheme.
September 1991: Digital Altimeter For Gliders & Ultralights;
Ultrasonic Switch For Mains Appliances; The Basics Of A/D &
D/A Conversion; Plotting The Course Of Thunderstorms.
July 1990: Digital Sine/Square Generator, Pt.1 (Covers
0-500kHz); Burglar Alarm Keypad & Combination Lock;
Simple Electronic Die; Low-Cost Dual Power Supply; Inside
A Coal Burning Power Station.
August 1990: High Stability UHF Remote Transmitter;
Universal Safety Timer For Mains Appliances (9 Minutes);
Horace The Electronic Cricket; Digital Sine/Square Generator, Pt.2.
September 1990: Low-Cost 3-Digit Counter Module; Simple
Shortwave Converter For The 2-Metre Band; the Bose Lifestyle Music System; The Care & Feeding Of Battery Packs;
How To Make Dynamark Labels.
October 1990: The Dangers of PCBs; Low-Cost Siren For
Burglar Alarms; Dimming Controls For The Discolight;
Surfsound Simulator; DC Offset For DMMs; NE602 Converter Circuits.
November 1990: How To Connect Two TV Sets To One VCR;
Build An Egg Timer; Low-Cost Model Train Controller; 1.5V
To 9V DC Converter; Introduction To Digital Electronics;
Build A Simple 6-Metre Amateur Band Transmitter.
December 1990: The CD Green Pen Controversy; 100W
DC-DC Converter For Car Amplifiers; Wiper Pulser For Rear
Windows; 4-Digit Combination Lock; 5W Power Amplifier
For The 6-Metre Amateur Transmitter; Index To Volume 3.
January 1991: Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries, Pt.1; Have
Fun With The Fruit Machine; Two-Tone Alarm Module; LCD
Readout For The Capacitance Meter; How Quartz Crystals
Work; The Dangers of Servicing Microwave Ovens.
February 1991: Synthesised Stereo AM Tuner, Pt.1; Three
Low-Cost Inverters For Fluorescent Lights; Low-Cost
Sinewave Oscillator; Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries, Pt.2;
How To Design Amplifier Output Stages.
March 1991: Remote Controller For Garage Doors, Pt.1;
Transistor Beta Tester Mk.2; A Synthesised AM Stereo Tuner,
Pt.2; Multi-Purpose I/O Board For PC-Compatibles; Universal Wideband RF Preamplifier For Amateur Radio & TV.
April 1990: Dual Tracking ±50V Power Supply; Voice-Operated
Switch (VOX) With Delayed Audio; 16-Channel Mixing Desk,
Pt.3; Active CW Filter; Servicing Your Microwave Oven.
April 1991: Steam Sound Simulator For Model Railroads;
Remote Controller For Garage Doors, Pt.2; Simple 12/24V
Light Chaser; Synthesised AM Stereo Tuner, Pt.3; A Practical
Approach To Amplifier Design, Pt.2.
June 1990: Multi-Sector Home Burglar Alarm; Build A LowNoise Universal Stereo Preamplifier; Load Protector For Power
Supplies; Speed Alarm For Your Car.
May 1991: 13.5V 25A Power Supply For Transceivers;
Stereo Audio Expander; Fluorescent Light Simulator For
Model Railways; How To Install Multiple TV Outlets, Pt.1.
October 1991: Build A Talking Voltmeter For Your PC, Pt.1;
SteamSound Simulator Mk.II; Magnetic Field Strength Meter;
Digital Altimeter For Gliders, Pt.2; Military Applications Of
R/C Aircraft.
November 1991: Build A Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.1; A
Junkbox 2-Valve Receiver; Flashing Alarm Light For Cars; Digital
Altimeter For Gliders, Pt.3; Build A Talking Voltmeter For Your PC,
Pt.2; Build a Turnstile Antenna For Weather Satellite Reception.
December 1991: TV Transmitter For VCRs With UHF Modulators;
Infrared Light Beam Relay; Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.2;
Index To Volume 4.
January 1992: 4-Channel Guitar Mixer; Adjustable 0-45V 8A
Power Supply, Pt.1; Baby Room Monitor/FM Transmitter;
Experiments For Your Games Card.
March 1992: TV Transmitter For VHF VCRs; Thermostatic
Switch For Car Radiator Fans; Telephone Call Timer; Coping
With Damaged Computer Directories; Guide Valve Substitution
In Vintage Radios.
April 1992: IR Remote Control For Model Railroads; Differential
Input Buffer For CROs; Understanding Computer Memory;
Aligning Vintage Radio Receivers, Pt.1.
May 1992: Build A Telephone Intercom; Electronic Doorbell;
Battery Eliminator For Personal Players; Infrared Remote Control
For Model Railroads, Pt.2; Aligning Vintage Radio Receivers, Pt.2.
June 1992: Multi-Station Headset Intercom, Pt.1; Video Switcher
For Camcorders & VCRs; IR Remote Control For Model Railroads,
Pt.3; 15-Watt 12-240V Inverter; A Look At Hard Disc Drives.
August 1992: An Automatic SLA Battery Charger; Miniature 1.5V
To 9V DC Converter; 1kW Dummy Load Box For Audio Amplifiers;
Troubleshooting Vintage Radio Receivers; MIDI Explained.
October 1992: 2kW 24VDC - 240VAC Sinewave Inverter; Multi-Sector Home Burglar Alarm, Pt.2; Mini Amplifier For Personal
Stereos; A Regulated Lead-Acid Battery Charger.
January 1993: Flea-Power AM Radio Transmitter; High Intensity
LED Flasher For Bicycles; 2kW 24VDC To 240VAC Sinewave
Inverter, Pt.4; Speed Controller For Electric Models, Pt.3.
February 1993: Three Projects For Model Railroads; Low Fuel
Indicator For Cars; Audio Level/VU Meter (LED Readout); An Electronic Cockroach; 2kW 24VDC To 240VAC Sinewave Inverter, Pt.5.
March 1993: Solar Charger For 12V Batteries; Alarm-Triggered
Security Camera; Reaction Trainer; Audio Mixer for Camcorders;
A 24-Hour Sidereal Clock For Astronomers.
ORDER FORM
Please send me the following back issues: _____________________________________________________________________
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Enclosed is my cheque/money order for $______or please debit my: ❏ Bankcard ❏ Visa Card ❏ Master Card
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Suburb/town _______________________________ Postcode ___________
92 Silicon Chip
Note: all prices include post & packing
Australia (by return mail) ............................. $A7
NZ & PNG (airmail) ...................................... $A8
Overseas (airmail) ...................................... $A10
Detach and mail to:
Silicon Chip Publications, PO Box 139,
Collaroy, NSW, Australia 2097.
Or call (02) 9979 5644 & quote your credit card
details or fax the details to (02) 9979 6503.
✂
Card No.
April 1993: Solar-Powered Electric Fence; Audio Power Meter;
Three-Function Home Weather Station; 12VDC To 70VDC Converter; Digital Clock With Battery Back-Up.
May 1993: Nicad Cell Discharger; Build The Woofer Stopper; Alphanumeric LCD Demonstration Board; The Microsoft Windows
Sound System; The Story of Aluminium.
June 1993: AM Radio Trainer, Pt.1; Remote Control For The
Woofer Stopper; Digital Voltmeter For Cars; A Windows-Based
Logic Analyser.
July 1993: Single Chip Message Recorder; Light Beam Relay
Extender; AM Radio Trainer, Pt.2; Quiz Game Adjudicator;
Windows-based Logic Analyser, Pt.2; Antenna Tuners – Why
They Are Useful.
August 1993: Low-Cost Colour Video Fader; 60-LED Brake
Light Array; Microprocessor-Based Sidereal Clock; Southern
Cross Z80-Based Computer; A Look At Satellites & Their Orbits.
September 1993: Automatic Nicad Battery Charger/Discharger;
Stereo Preamplifier With IR Remote Control, Pt.1; In-Circuit
Transistor Tester; A +5V to ±15V DC Converter; Remote-Controlled Cockroach.
October 1993: Courtesy Light Switch-Off Timer For Cars;
Wireless Microphone For Musicians; Stereo Preamplifier With
IR Remote Control, Pt.2; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.1.
November 1993: Jumbo Digital Clock; High Efficiency Inverter
For Fluorescent Tubes; Stereo Preamplifier With IR Remote
Control, Pt.3; Siren Sound Generator; Engine Management, Pt.2;
Experiments For Games Cards.
December 1993: Remote Controller For Garage Doors; LED
Stroboscope; 25W Amplifier Module; 1-Chip Melody Generator;
Engine Management, Pt.3; Index To Volume 6.
January 1994: 3A 40V Adjustable Power Supply; Switching
Regulator For Solar Panels; Printer Status Indicator; Mini Drill
Speed Controller; Stepper Motor Controller; Active Filter Design;
Engine Management, Pt.4.
February 1994: Build A 90-Second Message Recorder;
12-240VAC 200W Inverter; 0.5W Audio Amplifier; 3A 40V
Adjustable Power Supply; Engine Management, Pt.5; Airbags
– How They Work.
March 1994: Intelligent IR Remote Controller; 50W (LM3876)
Audio Amplifier Module; Level Crossing Detector For Model
Railways; Voice Activated Switch For FM Microphones; Simple
LED Chaser; Engine Management, Pt.6.
April 1994: Sound & Lights For Model Railway Level Crossings;
Discrete Dual Supply Voltage Regulator; Universal Stereo Preamplifier; Digital Water Tank Gauge; Engine Management, Pt.7.
May 1994: Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries; Induction Balance
Metal Locator; Multi-Channel Infrared Remote Control; Dual Electronic Dice; Simple Servo Driver Circuits; Engine Management,
Pt.8; Passive Rebroadcasting For TV Signals.
June 1994: 200W/350W Mosfet Amplifier Module; A Coolant
Level Alarm For Your Car; 80-Metre AM/CW Transmitter For
Amateurs; Converting Phono Inputs To Line Inputs; PC-Based
Nicad Battery Monitor; Engine Management, Pt.9.
July 1994: Build A 4-Bay Bow-Tie UHF Antenna; PreChamp
2-Transistor Preamplifier; Steam Train Whistle & Diesel Horn
Simulator; Portable 6V SLA Battery Charger; Electronic Engine
Management, Pt.10.
August 1994: High-Power Dimmer For Incandescent Lights;
Microprocessor-Controlled Morse Keyer; Dual Diversity Tuner For
FM Microphones, Pt.1; Nicad Zapper; Engine Management, Pt.11.
September 1994: Automatic Discharger For Nicad Battery Packs;
MiniVox Voice Operated Relay; Image Intensified Night Viewer;
AM Radio For Weather Beacons; Dual Diversity Tuner For FM
Microphones, Pt.2; Engine Management, Pt.12.
October 1994: How Dolby Surround Sound Works; Dual Rail
Variable Power Supply; Build A Talking Headlight Reminder;
Electronic Ballast For Fluorescent Lights; Build A Temperature
Controlled Soldering Station; Electronic Engine Management,
Pt.13.
November 1994: Dry Cell Battery Rejuvenator; Novel Alphanumeric Clock; 80-Metre DSB Amateur Transmitter; Twin-Cell
Nicad Discharger (See May 1993); Anti-Lock Braking Systems;
How To Plot Patterns Direct To PC Boards.
December 1994: Dolby Pro-Logic Surround Sound Decoder,
Pt.1; Easy-To-Build Car Burglar Alarm; Three-Spot Low Distortion
Sinewave Oscillator; Clifford – A Pesky Electronic Cricket; Cruise
Control – How It Works; Remote Control System for Models,
Pt.1; Index to Vol.7.
January 1995: Sun Tracker For Solar Panels; Battery Saver
For Torches; Dolby Pro-Logic Surround Sound Decoder,
Pt.2; Dual Channel UHF Remote Control; Stereo Microphone
Prea mplifier;The Latest Trends In Car Sound; Pt.1.
February 1995: 50-Watt/Channel Stereo Amplifier Module;
Digital Effects Unit For Musicians; 6-Channel Thermometer
With LCD Readout; Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers,
Pt.1; Oil Change Timer For Cars; The Latest Trends In Car
Sound; Pt.2; Remote Control System For Models, Pt.2.
March 1995: 50 Watt Per Channel Stereo Amplifier, Pt.1;
Subcarrier Decoder For FM Receivers; Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers, Pt.2; IR Illuminator For CCD Cameras;
Remote Control System For Models, Pt.3; Simple CW Filter.
April 1995: FM Radio Trainer, Pt.1; Photographic Timer
For Darkrooms; Balanced Microphone Preamp. & Line
Filter; 50W/Channel Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2; Wide Range
Electrostatic Loudspeakers, Pt.3; 8-Channel Decoder For
Radio Remote Control.
May 1995: What To Do When the Battery On Your PC’s
Motherb oard Goes Flat; Build A Guitar Headphone Amplifier; FM Radio Trainer, Pt.2; Transistor/Mosfet Tester For
DMMs; A 16-Channel Decoder For Radio Remote Control;
Introduction to Satellite TV.
June 1995: Build A Satellite TV Receiver; Train Detector
For Model Railways; 1W Audio Amplifier Trainer; LowCost Video Security System; Multi-Channel Radio Control
Transmitter For Models, Pt.1; Build A $30 Digital Multimeter.
July 1995: Electric Fence Controller; How To Run Two Trains
On A Single Track (Incl. Lights & Sound); Setting Up A
Satellite TV Ground Station; Build A Reliable Door Minder
(Uses Pressure Sensing); Adding RAM To A Computer.
August 1995: Fuel Injector Monitor For Cars; Gain Controlled Microphone Preamp; Audio Lab PC Controlled Test
Instrument, Pt.1; Mighty-Mite Powered Loudspeaker; How
To Identify IDE Hard Disc Drive Parameters.
September 1995: Keypad Combination Lock; The Incredible
Vader Voice; Railpower Mk.2 Walkaround Throttle For Model
Railways, Pt.1; Jacob’s Ladder Display; The Audio Lab PC
Controlled Test Instrument, Pt.2.
October 1995: Geiger Counter; 3-Way Bass Reflex Loudspeaker System; Railpower Mk.2 Walkaround Throttle For
Model Railways, Pt.2; Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries;
Digital Speedometer & Fuel Gauge For Cars, Pt.1.
November 1995: Mixture Display For Fuel Injected Cars;
CB Transv erter For The 80M Amateur Band, Pt.1; PIR
Movement Detector; Dolby Pro Logic Surround Sound
Decoder Mk.2, Pt.1; Digital Speedometer & Fuel Gauge
For Cars, Pt.2.
December 1995: Engine Immobiliser; 5-Band Equaliser; CB
Transverter For The 80M Amateur Band, Pt.2; Subwoofer
Controller; Dolby Pro Logic Surround Sound Decoder Mk.2,
Pt.2; Knock Sensing In Cars; Index To Volume 8.
January 1996: Surround Sound Mixer & Decoder, Pt.1;
Magnetic Card Reader; Build An Automatic Sprinkler
Controller; IR Remote Control For The Railpower Mk.2;
Recharging Nicad Batteries For Long Life.
February 1996: Three Remote Controls To Build; Woofer
Stopper Mk.2; 10-Minute Kill Switch For Smoke Detectors;
Basic Logic Trainer; Surround Sound Mixer & Decoder,
Pt.2; Use your PC As A Reaction Timer.
March 1996: Programmable Electronic Ignition System;
Zener Diode Tester For DMMs; Automatic Level Control For
PA Systems; 20ms Delay For Surround Sound Decoders;
Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter; Pt.2; Cathode
Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.1.
April 1996: Cheap Battery Refills For Mobile Telephones;
125W Power Amplifier Module; Knock Indicator For Leaded
Petrol Engines; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter;
Pt.3; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.2.
May 1996: Upgrading The CPU In Your PC; Build A High
Voltage Insulation Tester; Knightrider Bi-Directional LED
Chaser; Simple Duplex Intercom Using Fibre Optic Cable;
Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.3.
June 1996: BassBox CAD Loudspeaker Software Reviewed;
Stereo Simulator (uses delay chip); Rope Light Chaser; Low
Ohms Tester For Your DMM; Automatic 10A Battery Charger.
July 1996: Installing a Dual Boot Windows System On
Your PC; Build A VGA Digital Oscilloscope, Pt.1; Remote
Control Extender For VCRs; 2A SLA Battery Charger; 3-Band
Parametric Equaliser; Single Channel 8-bit Data Logger.
August 1996: Electronics on the Internet; Customising the
Windows Desktop; Introduction to IGBTs; Electronic Starter
For Fluorescent Lamps; VGA Oscilloscope, Pt.2; 350W Amplifier Module; Masthead Amplifier For TV & FM; Cathode Ray
Oscilloscopes, Pt.4.
September 1996: VGA Oscilloscope, Pt.3; Infrared Stereo
Headphone Link, Pt.1; High Quality PA Loudspeaker; 3-Band
HF Amateur Radio Receiver; Feedback On Programmable
Ignition (see March 1996); Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.5.
October 1996: Send Video Signals Over Twisted Pair Cable;
Power Control With A Light Dimmer; 600W DC-DC Converter
For Car Hifi Systems, Pt.1; Infrared Stereo Headphone Link,
Pt.2; Multi-Media Sound System, Pt.1; Multi-Channel Radio
Control Transmitter, Pt.8.
November 1996: Adding An Extra Parallel Port To Your Computer; 8-Channel Stereo Mixer, Pt.1; Low-Cost Fluorescent
Light Inverter; How To Repair Domestic Light Dimmers; Build
A Multi-Media Sound System, Pt.2; 600W DC-DC Converter
For Car Hifi Systems, Pt.2.
December 1996: CD Recorders – The Next Add-On For Your PC;
Active Filter Cleans Up CW Reception; Fast Clock For Railway
Modellers; Laser Pistol & Electronic Target; Build A Sound
Level Meter; 8-Channel Stereo Mixer, Pt.2; Index To Volume 9.
January 1997: How To Network Your PC; Using An Auto
transformer To Save Light Bulbs; Control Panel For Multiple
Smoke Alarms, Pt.1; Build A Pink Noise Source (for Sound
Level Meter Calibration); Computer Controlled Dual Power
Supply, Pt.1; Digi-Temp Monitors Eight Temperatures.
February 1997: Computer Problems: Sorting Out What’s At
Fault; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.6; PC-Controlled Moving
Message Display; Computer Controlled Dual Power Supply,
Pt.2; Alert-A-Phone Loud Sounding Alarm; Control Panel For
Multiple Smoke Alarms, Pt.2.
March 1997: Driving A Computer By Remote Control; Plastic
Power PA Amplifier (175W); Signalling & Lighting For Model
Railways; Build A Jumbo LED Clock; Audible Continuity Tester;
Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.7.
April 1997: Avoiding Windows 95 Hassles With Motherboard
Upgrades; Simple Timer With No ICs; Digital Voltmeter For
Cars; Loudspeaker Protector For Stereo Amplifiers; Model
Train Controller; Installing A PC-Compatible Floppy Drive In
An Amiga 500; A Look At Signal Tracing; Pt.1; Cathode Ray
Oscilloscopes, Pt.8.
May 1997: Windows 95 – The Hardware Required; Teletext
Decoder For PCs; Build An NTSC-PAL Converter; Neon Tube
Modulator For Light Systems; Traffic Lights For A Model Intersection; The Spacewriter – It Writes Messages In Thin Air; A
Look At Signal Tracing; Pt.2; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.9.
June 1997: Tuning Up Your Hard Disc Drive; PC-Controlled
Thermometer/Thermostat; Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.1;
Build An Audio/RF Signal Tracer; High-Current Speed Controller
For 12V/24V Motors; Manual Control Circuit For A Stepper
Motor; Fail-Safe Module For The Throttle Servo; Cathode Ray
Oscilloscopes, Pt.10.
July 1997: Infrared Remote Volume Control; A Flexible Interface Card For PCs; Points Controller For Model Railways;
Simple Square/Triangle Waveform Generator; Colour TV
Pattern Generator, Pt.2; An In-Line Mixer For Radio Control
Receivers; How Holden’s Electronic Control Unit works, Pt.1.
August 1997: The Bass Barrel Subwoofer; 500 Watt Audio
Power Amplifier Module; A TENs Unit For Pain Relief;
Addressable PC Card For Stepper Motor Control; Remote
Controlled Gates For Your Home; How Holden’s Electronic
Control Unit Works, Pt.2.
September 1997: Multi-Spark Capacitor Discharge Ignition;
500W Audio Power Amplifier, Pt.2; A Video Security System
For Your Home; PC Card For Controlling Two Stepper Motors;
HiFi On A Budget; Win95, MSDOS.SYS & The Registry.
October 1997: Build A 5-Digit Tachometer; Add Central Locking
To Your Car; PC-Controlled 6-Channel Voltmeter; The Flickering Flame Stage Prop; 500W Audio Power Amplifier, Pt.3;
Customising The Windows 95 Start Menu
PLEASE NOTE: November 1987 to August 1988, October
1988 to March 1989, June 1989, August 1989, May 1990,
August 1991, February 1992, July 1992, September 1992,
November 1992 and December 1992 are now sold out. All
other issues are presently in stock. For readers wanting articles
from sold-out issues, we can supply photostat copies (or tear
sheets) at $7.00 per article (includes p&p). When supplying
photostat articles or back copies, we automatically supply any
relevant notes & errata at no extra charge. A complete index
to all articles published to date is available on floppy disc for
$10 including p&p.
November 1997 93
ISSN 1030-2662
10
9 771030 266001
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$59 VIDEO CAMERAS! TOP QUALI T Y M O D U L E S O N LY ! $ 5 9 1 2
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Bankcard Visa Card Master Card
Card No.
✂
Enclosed is my cheque/money order for $__________ or please debit my
Signature__________________________ Card expiry date______/______
Name ______________________________________________________
Street ______________________________________________________
Suburb/town ___________________________ Postcode______________
VARIABLE VOLTAGE TRANSFORMER 0-260V, rotary control, new 10
amp, $350.00. Kiwi Electronics 03
9762 2688.
DONTRONICS can be found at:
http://www.dontronics.com
November 1997 95
MicroZed Computers
Advertising Index
BASIC STAMPS
& PIC Tools
Altronics................................. 34-36
Scott Edwards Electronics kits in stock,
including Counterfeit Stamp
Our specialty is easy to learn, easy to use
sophisticated CPU based controllers &
peripherals, with support
Daycom.......................................79
Dick Smith Electronics........... 10-13
PO Box 634, ARMIDALE 2350 (296 Cook’s Rd)
Ph (02) 6772 2777 – may time out to Mobile 014 036775
Fax (02 6772 8987
Harbuch Electronics....................91
http://www.microzed.com.au/~microzed
Credit cards OK. Send two 45c stamps for info
Instant PCBs................................99
Silicon Chip Floppy Index
Now available: the complete
index to all SILICON CHIP articles
since the first issue in November
1987.
C COMPILERS: Ever ything you
need to develop C and ASM software for 68HC08, 6809, 68HC11,
68HC12, 68HC16, 8051/52, 8080/85,
8086 or 8096: $140.00 each. Macro
Cross Assemblers for these CPUs
+ 6800/01/03/05 and 6502: $140.00
for the set. Debug monitors: $70 for 6
CPUs. All compilers inc ‘HC12, XASMs
and monitors: $480. 8051/52 or 80C320
Simulator (fast): $70. Disassemblers for
12 CPUs only $75. Try the new C-FLEA
Virtual Machine for small CPUs, build
a “C-Stamp”. Demo disk: FREE. All
prices + $5 p&p. GRANTRONICS PTY
LTD, PO Box 275, Wentworthville 2145.
Ph/Fax (02) 9631 1236 or Inter
net:
http://www.grantronics.com.au
MicroZed new Web page address:
http://www.microzed.com.au/~microzed
LOGGING AND GRAPH options available for DS1620 and PCVOLTMETER. Mr
Softmark, PO Box 1609, Hornsby, NSW
2077. Ph/fax (02) 9482 1565.
HOMEMADE GENERATORS: how to
instructions. Eight pages free text and
colour photos on the Internet at:
http://www.onekw.co.nz/
PCBs MADE, ONE OR MANY. Low
prices, hobbyists welcome. Sesame
Electronics, Ph/Fax (02) 9554 9760.
sesame<at>nettrade.com.au
20 SPEAKERS 15 Watt, 4 10 Watt, 2
long horn, 2 short horn with drivers,
800 mtr cable, 4 amplifiers, mixer:
$400 the lot (02) 6458 3663. 300
Watt inverter $100, 700 Watt motor
generator $700.
96 Silicon Chip
68HC11 & 68HC05 DEVELOPMENT
SYSTEMS: Oztechnics, PO Box 38,
Illawong, NSW 2234. Phone (02) 9541
0310, fax (02) 9541 0734.
http://www.oztechnics.com.au/
Jaycar ............................IFC, 45-52
Rola Australia..............................96
MicroZed Computers...................96
Norbiton Systems........................82
Oatley Electronics........................71
Resurrection Radio......................79
PIC COMPILERS and programmers
(the best ones) are available from
MicroZed.
Rod Irving Electronics .......... 84-88
CHRISTMAS LIGHTS controller gear
(as seen in EA) available from Micro
Zed.
Silicon Chip Back Issues....... 92-93
$239 COLOUR VIDEO CAMERAS
$239 with uP DIGITAL SIGNAL
PROCESSING for Superb Colour
Rendition & Long Term Stability. Cigarette Pack size Modules $239 (320 +
line), $369 (450 + line, Cameras $319
(320 +), $419 (450 +). Up to 437 664
Element CCDs 752 (H) x 582 (V) for
EXTRA HIGH RESOLUTION IMAGES. Options include 8 CHARACTER
TITLE GENERATOR, Automatic or
Manual White Balance One-Push,
3200, 4600 & 5600K to ensure correct colour balance with various light
sources. TWO Back Light Compensation Patterns for difficult lighting
situations. Automatic 1/100 000 or
Manual Electronic Shutter 1/50, 1/100
Flickerless, 1/250, 1/500, 1/1 000
& 1/10 000. Composite & S-VIDEO
outputs. VIDEO & DC Automatic Iris
Lens DRIVE outputs. Automatic Black
Balance. Also a Wide Range of Lenses from 2.1mm FL. Before you buy
Ask for our Illustrated Detailed Price
List with FULL SPECIFICATIONS &
Application Notes. Allthings Sales &
Services, Ph 08 9349 9413 Fax 08
9344 5905.
Silicon Chip Binders/Wallcht....OBC
Scan Audio..................................61
Silicon Chip Bookshop.................37
Silicon Chip Software..................69
Silicon Chip Subscriptions...........94
Smart Fastchargers.....................61
Zoom Magazine.........................IBC
_____________________________
PC Boards
Printed circuit boards for SILICON
CHIP projects are made by:
• RCS Radio Pty Ltd, 651 Forest
Rd, Bexley, NSW 2207. Phone (02)
9587 3491.
• Marday Services, PO Box 19-189,
Avondale, Auckland, NZ. Phone (09)
828 5730.
MicroZed has 8-pin 6 I/O (up to 4 I/O
can be A>D) 12C672 at $5 ea, $6.10
incl S/t. Quartz window version $25
+ S/t.
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