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DECEMBER 1999 1
SILICON
CHIP
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Contents
Vol.12, No.12; December 1999
FEATURES
4 JBL’s 21st Century Loudspeaker Technology
How they developed ribbon wire and dual voice coils – by Louis Challis
10 Review: Denon AVC-A1D AV Surround Amplifier
5.1 channels plus Dolby Digital plus DTS plus THX plus . . . Hey, it’s got the
lot! – by Leo Simpson
64 Internet Connection Sharing Using Hardware
IP gateways are fast and easy to set up and don’t extra require software.
You also get a bonus DHCP server and firewall – by Greg Swain
82 Electric Lighting; Pt.16
Microwave sulphur lamps – by Julian Edgar
92 Index To Volume 12
All the articles, projects and columns for 1999
PROJECTS TO BUILD
23 Build A Solar Panel Regulator
It works on 12V and 24V systems and has an LCD to show the battery voltage or current – design by Alan Bonnard
12V/24V Solar Panel Regulator –
Page 23.
32 The PC Powerhouse
Connects to your PC’s power supply and gives fixed +12V, +9V, +6V
and +5V rails – design by Barry Hubble
36 The Fortune Finder Metal Locator
A simple, low-cost metal detector that works – by John Clarke
54 Speed Alarm For Cars, Pt.2
Second article has all the construction details – by John Clarke
70 Railpower Model Train Controller; Pt.3
Don’t need infrared remote control? Here’s how to modify the circuit
for a hard-wired walk-around throttle – by John Clarke
SPECIAL COLUMNS
18 Serviceman’s Log
All the same, only different – by the TV Serviceman
The PC Powerhouse –
Page 32.
76 Vintage Radio
The Astor KM that blew its power plug off! – by Rodney Champness
DEPARTMENTS
2
28
30
53
80
Publisher’s Letter
Product Showcase
Circuit Notebook
Subscriptions Form
Electronics Showcase
88
90
94
96
Ask Silicon Chip
Notes & Errata
Market Centre
Advertising Index
The Fortune Finder
Metal Locator – Page 36.
DECEMBER 1999 1
PUBLISHER’S LETTER
www.siliconchip.com.au
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Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
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2 Silicon Chip
High definition TV not
wanted in Australia
Hands up all those readers who want high
definition television? How many of you are
prepared to pay around $8000 for the privilege?
And how many are prepared to pay $1000 or
more for a set-top converter for the privilege of
receiving broadcasts that previously required
no decoder?
I would guess that the numbers replying
yes to the above questions might start out
fairly high, until people realise how much it
is going to cost. The more you read about what
is proposed, and until recently there has been
very little technical information available, the
more you have to conclude that the high-definition digital TV broadcasts
being promoted are going to be a financial disaster – pretty much like pay
TV, I suppose.
Philips Industries, one of the major suppliers of consumer equipment,
recently put the cat among the pigeons by stating that the high definition
TV option was just not going to be viable, mainly because no other countries
have adopted it. Unless high definition sets are going to be made in really
large quantities their prices will not drop – they will always be too expensive for the average family to afford. The simple fact of the matter is that
the Australian TV market is only a drop in the bucket compared to the total
international market, so such sets will always be very expensive, provided
that manufacturers can be persuaded to make them in the first place.
But even if high definition sets were eventually going to come down in
price, there is probably little justification for the huge outlays that will be
required by the TV broadcasters. Why? Because most people would not recognise a high definition TV picture if it jumped out and punched them in the
face. Large numbers of people routinely put up with picture quality which is
appallingly bad. They just don’t realise how good a standard PAL broadcast
can be, especially on a late-model 68cm set as made by Sony, Panasonic or
any other mainstream manufacturer.
And when you turn around and feed the same set with a signal from a DVD
player, the picture is even better, even though it is still using the PAL standard.
That same picture quality will be available from the standard mode digital
broadcasts. Why go better? The fact is that unless you use a larger (more than
90cm) and higher resolution screen, say in a projection setup, there simply
will not be a visible benefit. And even if there will be, most older people will
still not be able to see it because their eyesight is not good enough.
Mind you, now that Philips have made a major demonstration of high-definition pictures versus standard mode pictures, the politicians appear to be
coming around to that view. This is just as well. But even if we do decide to
go for standard mode broadcasts and use the extra channels for interactive
TV, data-casting or whatever, the whole proposal still seems unnecessary
to me. As a pay-TV customer, I already have 30-plus channels of mostly
unviewable programs; why would I want heaps more? And remember, the
scheme involves a proposed end to normal analog TV broadcasting by 2008
in capital cities and by 2011 in regional areas.
If you want to know more, the draft report of the Productivity Commission on TV broadcasting is available on the Internet as a 1.3MB file at www.
pc.gov.au
Leo Simpson
*Full details at www.tol.com.au
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JBL's 21st Century
Speaker
Technology
From the time that the first successful sound
systems were installed in cinemas in
America, JBL Loudspeakers have been at the
forefront of quality sound reproduction.
As this article shows, they still are. . .
I
t is now almost 80 years since
James B. Lansing formed a partnership with Ken Decker in Los
Angeles to manufacture loudspeakers
for those new-fangled radios that hobbyists and affluent Americans aspired
to own.
Jim’s timing was perfect. He just
happened to be in the right place at
the right time to apply his innovative
ideas to solve what turned out to be
the motion picture industry’s most
pressing problems.
In 1927, Warner Bros introduced
talking pictures with “The Jazz Singer”, starring Al Jolson. “Talkies” were
an immediate success. Although the
Depression subsequently cast a long
shadow over Hollywood (and the rest
of the world), there was no stopping
the demand for talking pictures or
the cinemas in which they could be
shown.
But there were problems associated
with the “talkies”, many of which initially proved to be quite intractable.
The most complex of those problems revolved around the absence of
loudspeakers with sufficient power
output and quality to suit large cinemas which frequently exceeded 1000
seats.
The Western Electric Company was
one of the first firms to tackle this
problem and they assigned a large
team of engineers to the task. But
4 Silicon Chip
Western Electric didn’t have the field
to themselves and there were numerous private researchers working on
the same problems. It was during this
period that one of the most successful
researchers was Jim Lansing. As a result, his speakers had a marked edge
over virtually every other loudspeaker
in the market place at that time.
Jim Lansing’s most significant
achievement was the development of
a milling procedure for producing flat
voice coil wires. The flat wire could
be wound into a much stronger, more
durable ribbon voice coil that had
James B (Jim) Lansing died in 1949
but his legacy lives on through
products bearing his initials.
By LOUIS CHALLIS
the added advantage of significantly
higher power-handling and a more
effective use of the space available in
the voice coil air-gap. Without that
development, there was no simple
way to resolve the fundamental design
problems associated with producing
an effective compression driver.
At the same time, Jim Lansing developed an effective phasing plug. The
combination of flat wire, more efficient
voice coils and the phasing plugs
ensured that his compression drivers
were the best that money could buy.
These two fundamental developments
are as important today as they were
70 years ago.
Throughout the rest of the 1930s,
Jim Lansing focused his efforts on the
design of high-powered loudspeakers,
better power amplifiers and the associated crossover networks and DC
power supplies. His products were
snapped up by the most prestigious
cinemas and were sought after in the
major motion picture sound studios.
During World War II, Jim worked on
submarine detection systems. It was
only following the end of the war that,
with much soul-searching, he decided to leave Altec Theatre Services in
which he had been a director, to form
his own company, James B Lansing
Sound Incorporated. The adoption
of the Lansing in the company name
upset his former partners at Altec-Lan-
sing, so he changed the name to JBL.
In the few short years before his
death in 1949, Jim developed his famous D130 15" loudspeaker with a 4"
flat wire voice coil that revolutionised
theatre sound and set the standard
against which other low frequency
drivers would be assessed for the next
two decades.
JBL continued after Jim Lansing’s
death and about 30 years ago, it was
acquired by Harman International. In
the ensuing period, JBL has continued
to produce more powerful loudspeakers without sacrificing that equally
important parameter of ‘fidelity’.
Twin voice coils
Let’s briefly discuss the topic of
power-handling capacity.
When a loudspeaker is called on to
deliver high outputs, the large cone
excursions typically cause the voice
coil (or portions of it) to move out
of linear flux region of the air gap in
which it operates.
As the excursions become greater,
the thermal dissipation simultaneously increases and with it the risk of
voice coil burn out.
Even if the voice coil doesn’t burn
out, there is still the nasty problem of
gross non-linear distortion as the voice
coil’s travel moves into the non-linear
region at the fringes of the magnetic
path gap.
To solve this problem, most loudspeaker manufacturers have tended
to concentrate on building bigger
and/or more efficient magnets, larger
voice coils or even larger speaker
Two amplifiers - one
for the woofer and
one for the tweeter
Built-in active
crossovers
Low mass titanium
diaphragm
Low distortion
BiRadial Horn
Thermal protection
shuts down ampifier on overload
Die-cast heat-absorbing baffle
Active cooling
from alumium fins
Computer-designed EON
woofer cones
Polypropylene
enclosure
Flattened voice coil wires
give 22% more wire in
the magnetic gap
Patented “differential drive”
(two voice coils).
Neodymium
magnets - ten
times lighter than
conventional
magnets
Toroidal power
transfer for minimum weight.
Cutaway diagram of a typical JBL “EON” system showing significant levels of
innovative technology
diaphragms.
Each of those approaches imposes
significant functional, weight-related
and thermal disadvantages. JBL came
to the conclusion that there had to be
a better way, without incurring gross
harmonic distortion and premature
failure of the driver.
An early (1954) dual coil drive from Wolff, taken from
the patent documents at the time. CM is the magnet, A1
& A2 are two air gaps, C1 & C2 the two voice coils, P1
& P2 two steel plates and PP2 is the pole piece.
In the 1950s, Wolff and Kritter both
described a loudspeaker transducer
which had two voice coils wound in
opposite directions and spaced apart
on the same voice coil former.
Their patents described magnetic
circuits using Alnico permanent magnets and adopted two magnetic air
Another early patented dual coil drive, this time from
Kritter, 1959. Identified components are 1, the magnet;
2 is the steel pole piece and 3 & 4 steel plates.
7 & 8 are the two voice coils, 14 the speaker cone and
15 the speaker housing.
DECEMBER 1999 5
Cross-section of a loudspeaker with “conventional” outside
magnet construction – except that this one has two voice
coils. Note also the square cross-section coil wire.
gaps at outer ends of a magnet, with
one coil placed in each air gap.
As it turned out, neither of these researchers ever constructed a commercial example of their ideas or proved
that they were capable of producing a
working solution.
Other researchers who experimented with Wolff and Kritter’s concepts
discovered to their chagrin that there
were almost intractable problems to
be resolved in the construction of a
voice coil that could handle twice the
input power and safely dissipate the
associated heat.
JBL subsequently decided that the
concept had merit and a decade ago
developed its Eon loudspeaker. This
used a dual voice coil and a neodymium magnet nested in an aluminium
heatsink.
The Eon gave an extremely effective differential drive offering some
remarkable features.
The main attributes of the Eon
loudspeaker are its ability to provide
twice the power output compared
with that provided by a conventional
single voice coil design. At the same
time, it achieves a weight reduction of
between 75 and 80%.
The researchers at JBL were initially concerned that under high drive
conditions when maximum excursion
occurs, either one coil or the other
would leave the air gap, with possibly
adverse effects on the other coil.
In the presence of any asymmetry in
the loudspeaker, a voice coil could be
expected to literally jump out of the
gap in the direction of the asymmetry.
Even if everything was perfectly
6 Silicon Chip
Again with two coils, the lower weight and better magnetic
efficiency having the magnet on the inside of the coils
provides a far lighter and more effective solution.
balanced, there was still a risk for the
voice coil to jump out of the gap.
Once the voice coil is out of the
gap, the amplifier loses control, power
dissipation goes up and the distortion
is really bad.
In a conventional loudspeaker
driver, this is addressed by providing
progressive or non-linear stiffness in
the suspension elements and spider.
The problem with that is the risk of
premature fatigue failure and a relatively short driver life. The Eon design
adopted a smarter solution.
Claimed to be the strongest and lightest
14-inch driver ever, this is JBL’s 600W
DCD Driver 2254J “professional” speaker.
Dynamic braking
JBL have cunningly placed a third
shorted coil midway between the two
drive coils. This becomes what we
might term a ‘dynamic brake’.
As the voice coil excursions become
greater and greater, the shorted coil
moves into the active magnetic field
of either the front or rear coil.
When this occurs, the damping generated by the shorted coil effectively
limits the motion and the speaker
experiences a form of ‘soft clipping’.
The net effect is a highly effective
protection system.
JBL discovered that there were
some other unusual magnetic features
displayed by its dual-coil Eon design.
When they examined the distribution
of flux density along the voice coil
air gap, they discovered that it was
decidedly irregular and asymmetrical.
They were even more disturbed to
discover that the flux density on the
inside of the voice coil was substantially different to that on the outside of
the voice coil, ie, on the opposite side.
But while the individual gap fluxes were not symmetrical, the overall
distribution turned out to be almost
perfectly symmetrical and the flux
distribution on the inside and the
outside of the voice coil performed in
almost the same way as a single voice
coil design behaves.
The most significant advantage of
the dual voice coil design is that it
inherently has no asymmetric bias
at all. As a consequence, the second
harmonic distortion is then primarily
associated with the non-linearity of
the suspension rather than being at-
tributable to the magnetic field or flux
modulation.
Because the dual design has double
the coil surface area and a slightly
higher magnetic flux density, the
force factor is more than doubled
when compared with a conventional
single-coil design.
JBL experimented with two other
versions of the dual-coil design - one
with the magnet on the outside of
the coil (typically using a ceramic or
neodymium magnet) and the second
version with the neodymium or Alnico
magnet on the inside of the coil.
As they discovered, the lower
weight and better magnetic efficiency
of the inner option provides a far lighter and more effective solution than the
outer magnet option.
Neodymium offers further benefits
with the main advantage being that it
has lower flux modulation, leading
to harmonic modulation distortion
10dB lower than that with a ceramic
magnet.
Double-blind listening tests
The first dynamic loudspeakers
were developed a little over 80 years
ago. While they might have had some
similarity in appearance to the current
generation, there is simply no comparison in sound quality.
In the beginning, researchers relied
solely on their ears to assess the improvements in audible fidelity. Since
then, many objective test methods
were developed to measure improvements in performance. Nevertheless, a
The EON 10: one of JBL’s innovative and high performing “EON” speaker
systems intended for professional and commercial applications.
well trained and perceptive set of ears
still constitutes the most critical test
of any loudspeaker’s fidelity.
JBL’s current product philosophy
has been developed by Harman International’s new Vice-President of
Engineering, Floyd E. Toole.
His experience had convinced him
that any successful organization in this
field simply had to have appropriate
state-of-the-art research and testing
facilities. Accordingly, JBL built a new
Acoustical Research Centre with more
than 1000 cubic metres of speaker
development laboratory, equipped
with three anechoic and hemi-choic
test facilities.
JBL is now able to perform complex
automated speaker tests that comple-
By adding a shorted coil between the two driver coils a
dynamic brake is formed. Normally the shorted coil is
between the two voice coil gaps so it has little, if any, effect.
On large cone excursions, the shorted coil moves more and
more into one or other of the voice coil gaps to produce a
braking effect. The effect is shown in the graph at right.
ment its outstanding subjective test
facility - they have the finest and
best equipped listening room that
I’ve yet seen.
It is not generally appreciated just
how critical are the loudspeakers’
positions in a listening room when
you wish to compare the performance
of two or more sets of speakers.
If those assessments are to be valid,
then each pair of speakers has to occupy exactly the same positions. Now
that is no easy task, particularly if you
want to conduct a “double-blind”
test, with neither the subject nor the
tester being aware of which pair of
speakers is being listened to at any
one time.
Let’s face it, when you go to a hifi
The green curve shows the displacement of a dual coil
standard 10-inch woofer while the blue curve shows the
same woofer with the shorted centre coil for braking.
DECEMBER 1999 7
retailer’s listening room, such demanding requirements cannot be met.
But JBL has done it. They have constructed an automated platform system
to move multiple pairs of speakers
back and forth behind a curtain for
subjective blind testing.
I was intrigued to observe how each
pair of loudspeakers can be moved
almost silently into position in less
than two seconds. As a consequence,
listeners are able to make comparisons
without adverse interaction problems
generated by the listening room walls,
floor and ceiling.
The critical spatial parameters remain constant and the subjective test
assessments are both accurate and,
more importantly, credible!
Few consumers understand just
how important a loudspeaker’s position becomes in determining the
quality of the sound you hear in a
typical living room.
JBL’s research team has devoted an
immense amount of effort to accurately
quantify the critical parameters that
need to be determined.
Their ultimate aim was to develop a
procedure through which they could
optimise a monitor loudspeaker’s
effective sound output in both the
horizontal and vertical planes.
Now there are relatively few situations in either a domestic living
room or even in a commercial sound
dubbing suite or studio where there is
a single significant or ‘sweet’ listening
position. In the home, variable seating
positions are inevitable.
And in most typical commercial
dubbing suites, two to four people frequently sit in on a crucial mix-down.
A frequently forgotten element is the
reflected energy from walls and ceiling. Those components interact with
the primary (or direct sound) energy
to produce the integrated sound field
that the listener hears. Around twenty
years ago, most loudspeakers were designed solely on the basis of achieving
a flat frequency response on axis.
JBL’s research and development
team decided that loudspeaker should
be designed to provide an appropriately integrated sound field.
They describe it as ‘the listening
window’, encompassing an arc of 30°
in the horizontal plane and 15° in the
vertical plane.
Their research led them to the
conclusion that the loudspeaker that
sounds most natural provides uniform energy within those limits, even
though their measurements confirmed
that there may well be small differences in frequency response and perceived sound uniformity at the outer
extremes of the field.
As a result of that work, all current
JBL consumer and professional monitor speaker systems are designed to
satisfy this performance goal, and
frankly, as I have observed, they do
so remarkably well.
I was fortunate to be able to listen
to some of JBL’s developmental multi-channel speakers in one of its new
test suites in Los Angeles. Prior to my
visit to JBL I had no view on the desirability of installing a multi-channel
sound system in my home.
After Floyd Toole demonstrated
the attributes of one of JBL’s new
multi-channel systems, I realised just
how effective and impressive such a
SC
system can be.
Acknowledgement:
Thanks to Jands Electronics
(distributors of JBL Professional
Equipment) for their assistance
in the preparation of this feature.
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UHF DATA TRANSMISSION
Stamp sized Xtal locked 433.9MHz
superhetrodyne receiver module. Small
matching transmitter kit:(K122) All at
special prices. RX module $22. TX kit $8
ALCOHOL BREATH TESTER KIT:
Ref: EA Oct. 96. Based on a high quality
Japanese thick film alcohol gas sensor.
The kit includes a PCB, all on board
components and a meter movement:
(K80) reduced from$40 to &25
MASTHEAD AMPLIFIER KIT SPECIAL
The MAR-6 available separately $4.
The amplifier gives good results
with any two metal wires or
strips acting for the antenna. It
should even work with a coathanger! Basic kit with both
the PCBs & all on-board
parts (K03) $15 ...Basic Kit +
2 Weather-proof Plastic
Boxes + plug-pack: $20
(ask for your free case with this item)
K
Ref EA Aug. 96. Kit Connects to your PC
parallel port & samples over 0-2V & 0-20V
<at> between1 per hour to 1per 100uS. Ideal
to monitor battery charging etc. or used as
a basic 5KHz oscilloscope! Our kit inc. all
onboard components, PCB, box &
software on 3.5 disk:(K90) $25
15A PLUS 12V/24V HI EFFICIENCY
SOLAR REGULATOR KIT
Our regulator suits up to 100W panels.
Features precision voltage ref., Hi eff.
saturating MOSFET, Shotky diode
isolation, charge indicator and a current
limiter so it can be used with car battery
chargers, generators etc. Low cost due to
the use of some unused recycled
components. complete kit inc. case $29...
See our bargain solar panels in this ad..
MUSIC BOX KIT:
Ref: EA Oct. 96. This little kit is the
electronic equivalent music box. With a
range of tunes & is activated by light. Use it
in a music box, a musical jewellery case, or
toys. Req. 2 x AA batteries. Kit is supplied
with PCB, all on-board components, a
small speaker and battery holder. Kit is
available in two different versions;
*Xmas Songs + M3481 IC: (K78C) $11
*Various Songs + M3485 IC: (K78V) $11
* Additional (M3481 or M3485) $3.50 each
UHF AUDIO / VIDEO TRANSMITTER KIT
Kit includes all components needed......
PCB plus all on-board components,
connectors, switch, metal case, telescopic
antenna, twin RCA A/V lead, all that is
needed to complete the full kit. 12Vdc
<at>10mA operation.
Ideal for transmitting audio and
video around you
suitable
home.. Complete
plugcack $5
Kit for just $28
VIDEO CAMERAS
HOUSED CAMERAS
CMOS DOME COLOUR $160
CMOS COLOUR IN A SWIVEL CASE
$160
PCB CAMERAS
B/W CCD CAMERAS $89 pinhole
(60deg.), 92 deg,120 deg. add $10 for
150 deg.
CCD COLOUR $190
SUGAR CUBE CAMERAS $70
ALL WITH A FREE VHF MODULATOR
& SUITABLE PLUG PACK
O
O
L
XENON FLASH
TUBES
Removed from
disposable cameras.
Just add a AA cel.
$3 Ea. or
4 for $10
STROBE KIT
also available.
- battery not included +
uses above flash$6
CFL INVERTER KIT
our very popular inverter. The
improved design uses a larger
transformer and a SG3525
switch Mode Chip.This very
Efficient Driver kit can drive a
number of CFL’s from 12vdc. &
would be great for lighting the
weekender or caravan..
SPECIAL 1 inverter & 3 CFLs: $45
$55
$70
$160
COMPLETE INTELLIGENT BATTERY /
POWER MANAGEMENT SYSTEM
For the home or car New Battery Monitor
Kit:12v / 24v monitor
with low voltage cutout,
audible alarm before
cutout. Designed to use
minimal power & has a
battery saving 12 led
bar-graph indicator.
Kit inc PCB, all onboard
parts, label, 10A cutout MOSFET + suitable
surplus case for $32....
For 50A MOSFET (IRFZ44) add $3.
To complete your solar system we have
12-24V SOLAR REGULATOR KIT:
15A Kit inc all onboard parts & PCB. $25
SC_DEC_99
BATTERY CONDITION
12V
14.6
29.2
14.2
28.4
POSSIBLE
WATER LOSS
FULLY CHARGED
WARM BATTERY
13.8
27.6
13.4
26.8
13.0
COOL BATTERY
OFF
ON
SOUND
WARNING
LOW VOLT
CUT OUT
24V
26
12.6
25.2
12.2
24.4
11.8
23.6
11.4
22.8
11.0
22.0
10.6
21.8
10.2
20.4
BATTERY MANAGEMENT SYSTEM
$0.80...Module (no case) only $8
$25
5KHz OSCILLOSCOPE $25!!!
**NEW PRODUCT**
$10
Line lens+$0.80...X-hair lens ( + )
35-140 LED INFRA-RED
ILLUMINATOR KIT
Comes on when it gets dark
or can be controlled by alarm
system. 20-30M range Kit inc.
mount ing tray & universal
swivel mount. 35 LEDs $25.
Extra 35 LED pack (3extra
packs max) $14 per pack.
140 LED kit: $67 OR base Kit + 105 extra
LEDs, 140 LEDs TOTAL!!! for just $50.
Use with B/W cameras to see in the dark.
USED AUSSIE MADE TRANSFORMER
240V PRIMARY (120+120),ES screen,
Secondary....1X12V<at>1.1A...10V<at>5A...7
V<at> 5A... 12-0-12V<at>7.5A. 100 X 115 X
100mm. bargain at $15
NEW FULLY FEATURED ANSWERING
MACHINES.Brand new in original box with
manual, tape, plug pack and phone lead
Call screening, up to
2.5 min. out going
message, VOX
recording, power
fail protection,
memo record,
plays music
before beep,
digital volume
control, programable
security code, remote call break-through,
room monitor, full remote features, save
messages, AUSTEL appd. Bargain at $25
12V-13W $25
24V-10W $23
OVER
CHARGED
1 / 3 LED (RGB) $3.50 / $7.00
12V- & 24V DC CFLs
CHARGING
$60
**LOOK AT THIS**
NORMAL
**NEW**NEW**NEW**
CHRISTMAS SPECIAL
FLASHING
MOBILE ANTENNAS
To suit most popular
mobile phones.
PELTIER EFFECT DEVICES.
Could be used for cooling overclocked PC
CPUs. All 40 X 40mm.
4A
T 65deg. Qmax 42W $25
6A
T 65deg. Qmax 60W $27.50
8A
T 65deg. Qmax 75W $30
Comes with info to build cooler / heater
plus data. Some used heatsinks avail.
TWO MOTOR LASER LIGHTSHOW KIT
Inc. motors, mirrors, reversing switch & all
electronic components. Can be controlled
by variable DC input. Lots of patterns,
flowers, stars etc. $16 Laser module $8
LOW BATTERY
NEW SUPER LOW PRICE + LASER
AUTOMATIC LASER LIGHT SHOW KIT:
MKIII. Automatically changes every 5 - 60
secs. Countless great displays from single
to multiple flowers, collapsing circles,
rotating single and multiple ellipses, stars,
etc. Easy mirror alignment with “Allen
Key”. Kit inc. PCB, all on board components, three small DC motors, mirrors,
precision adjustable
mirror mounts:
(K115) + very
bright 650nM
laser (LM2) module.
Kit with laser module $60
Kit + laser module + plug-pack + instument
style case all at a special price of $75
IR LASER DIODE SECIAL
5mW 780nM (barley visible) Sharp
LTO26
Requires 65mA.
Diode plus focus
lens (no housing)
$18....constant current
driver kit $10
LITHiUM-ION BATTERY PACK
AUDIOVOX BTR600R 400mAh 7.2V
These battery packs contain two
rechargeable Lithium-Ion cells, with an
amazing 400 mAh capacity in such a small
cell (51mm X14mm). Ideal for use as R/C
receiver batteries etc. $4ea
KEY-CHAIN LASER POINTER
in a presentation box. Quality
metal housing + 3X LR44
/AG13 bats. FREE.
Extra bats. 50c Ea.
The Denon AVC-A1D has a host of
operating features while still managing
to look very clean and uncluttered. It
provides all possible operating modes
for home theatre systems.
Denon's AVC-A1D
surround sound amplifier
When is an amplifier not simply an amplifier?
Answer: when it is a surround sound amplifier
made by Denon. This new model Denon is
described as an A/V surround sound amplifier
but that hardly begins to tell the story. Briefly, it
has virtually every conceivable amplifier
feature you could want in a Home Theatre
surround sound system.
By LEO SIMPSON
These days one accepts that audio
equipment for home theatre systems
is going to be complex. After all, there
are all the program sources which
must be catered for, the minimum of
five audio power amplifiers, the need
to cope with Dolby Digital (AC-3), DTS
(Digital Theatre System) and Dolby
Pro-Logic sources plus DSP (Digital
Signal Processing) to give surround
10 Silicon Chip
sound effects like concert hall, rock
stadium, jazz club and so on.
This Denon product does all that
and a whole lot more and it takes
quite a lot of time to work out just how
many functions and features it has.
In fact, for a unit which has so many
features, it is quite inscrutable at first
sight. It looks more like a large conventional stereo FM/AM receiver than a
surround sound amplifier, doesn't it?
After all, it appears to have a long dial
scale and a large knob on the right, just
like a stereo receiver. Well, the knob
is the master volume control but it is
not a normal potentiometer and it is
not motorised, as are many in systems
with remote control.
The other knob on the front panel is
the input selector but it is not a normal
switch and it can be rotated continuously back and forth, without stops.
There is a large door in the control
panel and it drops down smoothly to
reveal 18 pushbuttons and two more
knobs, for the bass and treble controls.
And yes, the tone controls aren't normal pots either - they rotate continuously while the amount of boost or
cut is displayed on the large vacuum
fluorescent dot matrix display.
So after tentatively trying out some
of the controls or the multi-button
remote you quickly realise that this is
no ordinary surround amplifier. Then
you take a look at the back panel and
stagger back - just how many inputs
and outputs can this unit handle?
The number of inputs is increased
because it handles video as well as
audio - that's where the A/V designation comes from. But in addition
it also handles optical digital signals
from four sources such as DVD and
CD players. As well, there are S-video
sockets for six sources such as DVD
and VCRs as well as outputs to two TV
monitors and two VCRs. There is also
an AC-3 Dolby Digital) input
All told, there are no less than 77
RCA sockets, six optical fibres sockets
and ten S-video sockets. And there are
seven pairs of binding post terminals
for the speakers: front, left, centre, and
two sets of rear speakers.
After doing this quick reconnaissance, the natural reaction is to retreat
to the owner's manual and a cup of coffee for an hour or two's quiet reading.
Well that's what you would normally
do if you had the owner's manual;
we didn't, as this was an early review
sample. We did have some Denon
publicity material and a brochure and
fortunately, the brochure was pretty
comprehensive.
So what have Denon attempted to
do in producing this very impressive
looking piece of equipment? Not only
does it incorporate very comprehensive input signal handling for analog
sources but it also handles digital
signals which can be connected to the
RCA sockets via normal shielded cables or via optical fibre. And it is in the
digital domain that Denon have really
spent the money in developing 96kHz
24-bit digital-to-analog converters.
In fact, there are no less than six
of these D/A converters, one each for
the five normal audio channels and
one for the sub-woofer output. There
is a major story just in the development of these chips but Denon have
gone further and incorporated 32-bit
DSP chips for the Dolby Digital and
DTS decoders and for the THX and
surround sound signal reproduction.
Just so the system will not be outmoded in the future, the Denon AVCA1D also has provision for 6-channel
and 8-channel audio sources. Did we
forget video? We mentioned S-video
sockets but not the RCA sockets for
composite video or so-called "component" video (ie, Red, Green & Blue)
for direct connection to a TV monitor
or video projection system.
AUDIO PRECISION FREQRESP AMPL(dBr) & AMPL(dBr) vs FREQ(Hz)
5.0000
04 NOV 99 09:13:14
5.000
4.0000
4.000
3.0000
3.000
2.0000
2.000
1.0000
1.000
0.0
0.0
-1.000
-1.00
-2.000
-2.00
-3.000
-3.00
-4.000
-4.00
-5.000
-5.00
10
100
1k
10k
100k 200k
Fig.1: frequency response over the amplifier at a power level of 1 watt into an
8Ω load. This is taken in Direct mode which bypasses the tone controls.
AUDIO PRECISION SCTHD-W THD+N(%) vs measured LEVEL(W)
10
05 NOV 99 08:47:48
1
0.1
0.010
0.001
.0005
0.1
1
10
100
300
Fig.2: total harmonic distortion versus power at a frequency of 1kHz with the
two front channels driven. Maximum power is 180 watts at the onset of clipping
(measured with a bandwidth of 20Hz to 30kHz).
As you might expect, the remote
control is pretty complex as well,
with lots of buttons to control all the
different sources. It is a learning remote so when you set up your home
theatre system there will be no need
to juggle four or five remotes. A feature we really liked is that the most
often-used buttons, for things like
volume up/down, play, stop and so
on, glow in the dark. So you can see
'em before you press 'em and you don't
have the concern about battery usage
for back-lighting.
But perhaps the best feature of
the remote control, and the Denon
amplifier itself for that matter, is the
on-screen display. This is just like the
DECEMBER 1999 11
AUDIO PRECISION SCTHD-HZ THD+N(%) vs FREQ(Hz)
5
05 NOV 99 09:10:06
1
0.1
0.010
0.001
.0005
20
100
1k
10k
20k
Fig.3: total harmonic distortion versus frequency at a power level of 100 watts
into 8Ω (measured with a bandwidth of 20Hz to 80kHz).
This remote control is a learning
type so it will replace most remotes
required for a home theatre system.
on-screen display (on the TV monitor)
which is a feature of today's VCRs. In
fact, the on-screen display is a necessity, so that you don't have to remember
all the settings you have made.
After all, the front panel display
only shows the control settings you
just touched, not those which were
previously set. For example, when
you change the bass or treble control,
the amount of boost or cut is shown
on the front panel display, eg +7dB,
but as soon as you select some other
function, the boost setting disappears.
Nor can you tell the tone control setting by looking at the knobs because
they don't have any markings. With
the on-screen display you can call
up all these settings without having
to touch them.
12 Silicon Chip
By the way, you can bypass the tone
controls by selecting the Direct mode
although we could not measure any
significant difference in performance
when this was in use.
Before we delve into the innards of
the big Denon, I must say that I find
the gold finish on the front panel a
most refreshing change from the universal black or charcoal on most hifi
equipment. It looks more at home in
the living room to my mind although
the unit is available in black for those
who prefer the sombre look.
Since the AVC-A1D is such a large
and bulky unit I knew it would be
crammed to the top with circuitry
but I was not quite prepared for just
how much there is. Removing the case
shows it has lots of boards for signal
processing on the righthand side
(looking from the front) of the chassis
and the big power supply on the left.
Down the centre is the five-amplifier
module, mounted on a heatsink tunnel
and cooled with two fans.
The power supply consists of the
large toroidal power transformer and
two large filter capacitors and these
supply the five power amplifiers. Elsewhere in the chassis are the supplies
for all the signal processing circuitry.
Guess how all the analog signal
switching is done? Not with CMOS
gates but with relays, lots of them. So
whenever you change a signal source
or mode selection you can hear the
relays clicking in and out.
We don't how many PC boards
there are in the unit because you
would have to disassemble it to count
them all but as you can see from the
internal photograph, there are quite a
few. All the signal processing boards
are double-sided and are covered in
surface-mount components on one
side while the power supply bypassing and larger components are on the
other side.
Perhaps the most interesting (and
understandable) module for me was
that for the five power amplifiers. Each
of these amplifier uses just two large
power transistors in the output stages.
These must be very rugged devices
indeed because each power amplifier is rated to deliver up to 390W
into 2Ω loads with normal program
signals. They are plastic-encapsulated devices with the case measuring
about 20 x 40mm, much bigger than
the 200W-rated plastic devices we are
used to seeing.
Since we did not have any access
to circuits, it is not possible for us
comment in any detail but the power
amplifiers appear to be conventional
class-AB designs, albeit relying on
those very large output devices. Each
channel is rated at 140 watts RMS into
8Ω loads, with the power rising to 190
watts under dynamic conditions (ie,
program rather than continuous sine
wave signals). The rating rises again
to 310 watts into 4Ω loads (dynamic)
and 390 watts into 2Ω, as mentioned
above. Rated harmonic distortion is
.05%, for signals from 20Hz to 20kHz.
Bench-testing the big Denon presented a real challenge. For a start
we don't have a big load box which
will cope with five power amplifiers
simultaneously. This meant that we
had to content ourselves with just
testing the front left and right channels
in stereo mode. Nor did we have time
for a a full suite of audio tests and so
we had to be selective. However, the
tests that we did perform showed that
the Denon amplifier comfortably met
all its specifications, as you would
expect.
Fig.1 shows the frequency response
of the analog circuitry in Direct mode,
at a level of 1 watt into 8Ω loads. As
you can see it is about 0.5dB down
at 10Hz and just over 1dB down at
70kHz. At 20kHz it is about 0.35dB
down - more than adequately wide
for a hifi amplifier.
Fig.2 & Fig.3 illustrate the performance of the power amplifiers and
these were measured in Direct and
non-Direct modes with negligible
differences in performance, with both
channels driven simultaneously. Under this stereo condition, the amplifiers comfortably exceed their power
ratings, giving about 180 watts before
the onset of clipping. By the way, the
little zig-zags in the curves are an
artefact of the attenuator switching
The rear view is pretty cluttered though with no less than 77 RCA sockets (count
them), plus S-video sockets and optical fibre sockets.
in the Audio Precision test gear and
do not have any significance in the
amplifier's performance.
One aspect we did have trouble
with was the effect of residual noise
at the lower power outputs. As you
can see from Fig.2, the harmonic distortion is 0.03% for a power output
of 100mW but that does not represent
distortion; it is noise. This can be
reduced by driving the unit with a
bigger input signal and winding the
volume control back and this is what
we did, driving the unit with a 2V
signal and measuring (for this test)
with a bandwidth of 30kHz.
Lest we give the wrong impression,
the overall noise levels from the Denon are very low. Set for a sensitivity
of 2V input and 140W output into 8Ω,
the signal-to-noise ratio was -108dB
This is the power amplifier module which has five power amplifiers mounted on
a heatsink tunnel cooled by two fans. Notice the very large power transistors;
only two of these are used in each power amplifier.
unweighted. But they've done some
clever things with their volume control attenuation because it drops to
around -120dB at low volume settings
and rises to around -92dB at maximum
sensitivity, ie, with the volume setting
flat out. This latter condition would
never apply in practice so the overall
noise levels are very low and even
more creditable when you consider
the amount of circuitry in the signal
path.
Fig.3 shows the distortion versus
frequency at a power output of 100
watts into 8Ω loads, with both front
channels driven. As you can see, the
distortion is below .05% at all times
and below .03% for frequencies below
10kHz which is a pretty credible result
for power amplifiers with only two
power transistors in the output stages.
During the high power testing, the
fans cut in regularly but they are relatively quiet and they cut out quite
soon when the power level is reduced.
They would probably not operate at all
during normal listening. In any case,
if you were listening at high levels
you certainly would not hear the fans.
We could go on with a lot more
measurement results but you have
the overall picture - this is a very impressive machine with a huge range
of features. How does it sound? Very
clean, very quiet and with heaps of
power; what more can we say?
The only drawback is that prospective buyers will need to be wellheeled; the recommended retail price
is $5680 and it is covered by a 2-year
parts and labour warranty.
For further information, contact
the Australian distributors for Denon
equipment, AWA Audio Products by
phoning 1 800 642 922 or by email
info<at>audioproducts.com.au
SC
DECEMBER 1999 13
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
All the same – only different
It’s not often that one set of notes deals almost
exclusively with the same make of set.
However, that’s the case this month because I
had quite a few Sony TV sets to fix. Even so,
each model is still a separate device, with its
own quirks and problems.
It’s really been quite a month, with
TV set repairs predominating. Computer repairs tend to be confined to
older ma
chines – machines which
their owners can’t bear to throw away.
It is hard to overcome the perception
that most electronic appliances have
a life-span of around 10 years and
computers only about three years.
This is not because they are not well
made or because the manufacturers
have incorporated “built-in obsolescence”. Instead, it is dominated by
the demand for more features and, of
course, faster operation – all ultimately involving the latest technology. I am
happy to oblige by fixing older devices, provided the customer is prepared
to accept the non-availability or high
cost of spare parts.
As already stated, this month I dealt
with quite a few Sony TV sets. These
are normally very reliable sets and
the number of repairs that came in
simply reflects their popularity in
the marketplace. Unfortunately, apart
from the brandname, the only thing
they had in common was the diffi-
Fig.1: the
microcontroller
circuitry in the
Sony KV-2064EC
colour TV set.
Disconnecting
R068 restored
all the set’s
functions but
it was the
microcontroller
(IC001) itself
that had to be
replaced.
18 Silicon Chip
culty I had in analysing and solving
the problems.
The KV-2064EC
The first Sony was a 1983 stereo TV
set, model KV-2064EC (XE 3 chassis),
with no picture. Mr Hardy had already
previously taken it to the local service
agent but had become annoyed about
the 3-week backlog, a non-refundable
quote fee of $35 upfront, and an estimate of $290. I didn’t have the heart to
tell him that some companies charge
twice that price and require even
longer queues.
Although there was no picture, the
sound was quite OK which seemed to
suggest a straightforward problem. I
don’t normally service TV sets more
than 10 years old but I thought that
this would probably be a piece of cake.
And I even had the original service
manual!
Unfortunately, my optimism was to
be short-lived.
With the set on the bench, it didn’t
take long to confirm that all the voltage
rails were spot on, that the EHT, focus
and screen voltages were correct, and
that the CRT filaments were at 6.3V
and glowing – in short, all the main
“life signs” were there. The only
voltages that were wrong were the
tube cathodes. These were high which
indicated that they were being cut off
by the video processing circuits.
I thought I would take a quick short
cut here although I don’t really recommend it to others, on the grounds
that there is a fair risk of damaging
other components. By momentarily
shorting each cathode to chassis in
turn, there should be an intense single
colour raster on the screen. This will
indicate whether there is full vertical
and horizontal scanning and if the
tube is working.
If, for example, the vertical timebase
has failed, many sets will blank off
the raster to prevent screen burn. In
this instance, all was OK, with three
bright fully scanned coloured screens.
and Q316 (BLK). The base of Q316 is
shown on the circuit diagram as 0V
but was in fact at 5V, thus switching it
hard on. Tracing back further, I found
this same 5V on pin 9 of the micro
controller IC (IC001) but this point is
also shown on the circuit diagram as
0V – see Fig.1.
Disconnecting pin 9 made no difference but removing R068 (22kΩ) which
goes from pin 9 to the 5V rail restored
everything, with a perfect picture on
the screen. The set even continued to
work OK when pin 9 was resoldered
but with R068 left disconnected.
So what is the purpose of R068 and
what does it do? Well, I really don’t
know; there is no block diagram or
description of the IC. Furthermore, the circuit shows IC001 to
be a CX519-004P but I found a
CX523-110P fitted. Worse still,
neither IC is now available as a
spare part, which isn’t unusual
for a 16-year old set.
Fortunately, I found a CX519004P in a scrapped Sony KV-2764.
When fitted, this IC held its pin 9 low
even when R068 was reconnected. I
have no idea what caused the problem, which is very frustrating – but at
least I had another satisfied customer.
Mrs Mulligan’s KV-F29SZ2
It was now time to get really technical and bring the big guns into play.
Using a signal generator and a CRO,
I soon established that the video was
getting as far as the colour decoder,
IC301 (UPC1365), but was going no
further. I checked all the waveforms
on all the pins, especially pins 19
and 23 where I measured the shape
of the horizontal pulses. Apart from
no output on pins 26, 27 & 28, out
of the RGB matrix block (which was
understandable), all was correct. The
video could be seen as far as pin 6 on
the video amplifier part of IC301.
Next, I measured the DC voltages
on this IC, concentrating on the luminance section, especially the bright
ness, contrast, blanking (BLK) and
beam current limiter (ABL) circuitry.
I found that the voltage on pin 4 was
only half the 8.5V shown on the circuit
and neither the remote controller nor
the set controls could correct it.
I now followed the circuit back
from pin 4 to transistors Q308 (ABL)
Items Covered This Month
•
•
•
•
•
Sony KV-2064EC stereo TV set
Sony KV-F29SZ2 TV set
Sony KV-2585AS TV set
Sharp SX-51F7 TV set
Sony KV-S29SN1 TV set
The next Sony lived by the sea in
a lovely unit overlooking the beach.
The only trouble was that the onshore
breezes blew the salt atmosphere right
into the back of Mrs Mulligan’s 1995
KV-F29SZ2 (G3F chassis) TV set.
When I called, she complained that
all she could receive was channel
2 and play back the video cassette
recorder. The on-screen display
showed that it was switching bands
and searching, with lots of snow on
the screen.
I checked the antenna and the video
leads and they were all OK. The VCR
could receive all channels perfectly
and from all of this, I guessed that it
was either the tuner or the IF module.
However, I would have to take it back
to the workshop.
When it finally ended up on the
bench, I removed the IF module block
and resoldered a number of suspected
dry joints around the coils and filters.
Unfortunately, this produced no miracle cures so I laid the set on its front
to provide access to the “A” board
and started making measurements.
And this provided the first clue – the
DECEMBER 1999 19
band-switching voltages to the tuner
weren’t changing, even though the
on-screen display said they were.
(Sony uses an alphabetical code to
identify various PC boards. An “A”
usually indicates the main board,
while smaller boards may be desig
nated down to “V”.)
I traced the relevant PC track back
to the microprocessor. Everything
was perfect on the underside of the
“A” board but it was a different story
on top. Although everything looked
fine from a casual glance, a closer inspection revealed that the fine copper
tracks disappeared beneath the green
solder mask.
By scraping away the mask in several places and testing with a continuity
meter, I found breaks in two of the
tracks and narrowed them down to
within a few centimetres. Connecting
links across these breaks fixed the
problems and the set could now tune
all the Band III and UHF stations.
Finally, I wiped the boards and
sprayed them with a fine mist of CRC
2-26 to try to prevent further corrosion. However, considering where the
set is located, I fear it was a fruitless
task. Almost certainly, the set will be
a write-off in a few years.
Picking up the pieces
The third Sony had been all over
the place before finally landing on my
20 Silicon Chip
bench. I hate taking on jobs like this;
inevitably, I have to fix the previous
technicians’ faults before getting on
to the real repair.
This set, a KV-2585AS, has a GP1A chassis, designated SCC-F35A-A
according to the label stuck on the
CRT metalwork. However the service
manual says the same model uses a
chassis designated as SCC-D23L-A.
It may appear that I am being pedantic but this set had spent the better part
of a year in various workshops and
many parts had been replaced – not
necessarily with the right ones. The
main question mark hung over IC601,
in the switchmode power supply. An
STRS6708 was fitted but my circuit
said it should be an STRS5941. And
just to confuse matters, another GP-1A
set that came in had an STRS5741.
In this case, the set was dead and
the main fuse was open, due to IC601
having gone short circuit between
pins 1 and 2 (ie, between collector
and emitter of the internal switching
transistor). Unfortunately, these ICs
aren’t cheap, costing around $30 each.
The chassis itself was a mess; several parts were either unsoldered or
missing and others were quite clearly
the wrong types. Fortunately, it wasn’t
difficult to identify the components
that had been replaced, from the fresh
soldered joints.
As it turned out, there were over
half a dozen incorrect parts fitted. I
replaced these with the correct types
and I also replaced the horizontal
output transistor, Q802 (2SC4927),
which had a short circuit.
Finally, I was ready to fire the set
up but as an additional precaution, I
connected a 200W globe where the
main fuse should be. The set came on
with both sound and picture but before I could measure the main voltage
rail there was a loud bang and it died
again, the globe turning very bright.
This exercise cost the horizontal
output transistor (Q802), a 1.2Ω feed
resistor (R340) and the switchmode
IC (IC601).
I replaced all these parts and I tried
again, this time using a Variac to wind
up the voltage, a 100W globe and a
meter across test point TP91 (135V) to
chassis. As a further precaution, the
base and emitter leads of Q802 were
shorted. The 100W globe lit without
stress and the voltage levelled at 139V.
As there is no control to adjust this, I
felt that the 3% error was within the
design limitation of the set.
Feeling much more confident, I removed the base-emitter short from the
horizontal output transistor and again
wound up the Variac. Once again, the
picture and sound were good and
there appeared to be no problems, although the test point was still at 139V.
It ran for over half an hour and then,
just as my back was turned, there was
another loud bang followed by silence.
There was a smell of electrical
burning and the same com
ponents
had died again. And although I hadn’t
seen what happened, I suspected the
horizontal output transformer, T851.
Once again, I had a problem deciding
which was the correct one for this set,
as the one fitted (NX-M 1601 1-439423-32) didn’t match the circuit or the
other GP-1A set on hand.
Eventually, I chose an NX-1604
1-439-416-41 and fitted it, along with
all the other parts. This time the set
came on and remained stable. I left it
on for days, keeping an eye on it, and
it performed faultlessly.
Tube failures
Just recently, I have had two cases
of picture tube failure, both in modern sets. The first was a 1995 Sony
KV-F29SZ2 G3F chassis. I was called
to this set, with the customer com
plaining that there was no blue and
that the set was “burning”. When I
arrived, the symptoms I saw were no
green and a burnt 1.5kΩ resistor, R713.
This didn’t surprise me as it fed the
green cathode. However when I asked
the customer about this, he replied
“Ah, well – I’m colour blind!”
I replaced the resistor and all
was well. However, I knew there
could be only one reason why it had
burnt and that was because the tube
(M68KZT
10X) had an intermittent
heater-to-cathode short.
I told him the bad news and suggested that he “whinge” to Sony about it
because, realistically, he had blown
$1700 odd in four years on this largescreen “deluxe” TV set. At the same
time, I pointed out that the set was
well and truly out of warranty and
so that would probably be the end of
the story.
A month later I bumped into him
in the street and asked about the
outcome. As it turned out, Sony had
instructed him to take it to one of
their service agents and if it really was
faulty, they would replace the tube –
he would have to pay for the labour
costs only. He is still in the process of
having this done.
All I can say is, good for him and
good for Sony.
The second set was even younger,
a 51cm Sharp SX-51F7. This set was
only about two years old and the
owners were watching it when it went
“boom” and died. I was expecting
something spectacular when I called
and I was surprised when I couldn’t
find anything visually wrong on the
circuit boards. All that was happen
ing was that the picture tube (ASIK
PD12SX) was arcing internally within
the gun assembly.
Obviously, it was “down to air”
which is just another way of saying
that the tube had lost its vacuum. I
checked the power supply rails and
the EHT. The HT was spot on at 115V
and the EHT did not exceed 25kV. If
either of these rails had momentarily
gone high, they might have caused a
flashover inside the tube, creating a
fracture in the glass. However, both
rails were steady and as there was no
visible damage to the tube, I could
only presume that there was a problem
with the frit seal or with a part of the
tube which cannot be seen.
I thought that this too would be
the end of the story but Sharp said
it would come to the party with a
free tube if the owners paid for an
Fig.2: a section of the V board circuitry in the Sony KV-S29SN1. IC02 is at
the top, while plug/socket CN01 is at left. Pin 3 (video) on the socket goes
to pin 8 of IC02, while pin 2 (ST TV) goes to Q03’s emitter via R13. Fuse
PS01 is at middle left, in the 8V line to the collector of Q02.
authorised service agent (not me) to
fit the tube. So full marks for customer
service to Sharp as well.
The giant Sony
As soon as I saw this next set in
Mrs Marsden’s home, I knew it was
destined for the workshop. It was a
5-year-old 73cm Sony set with a KVS29SN1 G1 chassis and with lots of
features, such as picture-in-picture,
teletext and stereo sound.
The set had developed two separate faults, one being intermittent no
picture and the other no horizontal
or vertical sync in the main picture
(although the picture-in-picture was
locked perfectly). To make matters
worse, at least from a service view
point, the set is big and heavy and
access to the main module chassis is
rather difficult.
So there I was, on a Monday morning in the workshop, contemplating
which was worse – fixing this set or
working out how the GST was going
to ruin me. I settled on the easier of
the two problems and took the back
off the set but even with a photocopy
of the service manual, it was difficult
to know where to start.
In the end, I began by confirming
that the “no sync” problem persisted
even if I injected a composite video
waveform from a colour bar generator into the AV socket. I then took a
look at the circuit diagram of the “A”
board and quickly counted at least 10
devices marked SYNC this or SYNC
that – there is even a module marked
A2 SYNC.
Unfortunately, the block diagram
was too small and too badly copied to
read. The only thing was to start somewhere – anywhere – and track down
a sync signal. After that, I should be
able to trace the signal until it disappeared and then figure out what the
problem was.
Now unless the reader has access to
a manual or circuit, this description
will not be easy to follow. It is set out,
as much as anything, to give some idea
of the frustrating chase involved in
tracking down this most elusive fault.
So bear with me.
I placed the set face down but at a
slight angle so that, by using a small
mirror, I could see part of the screen.
I then unscrewed the main chassis,
pulled it out by about 150mm and
wedged it on the bottom of the cabinet. The whole thing was incredibly
precarious and the neck of the tube
could be knocked off at any moment.
Next, I fired up the CRO and started
DECEMBER 1999 21
at the output of one of the twin IF modules. This went to transistor Q1101,
designated sync-detect, and then to
plug CN1108 and micro
controller
board “M”. (Note: Sony uses the
prefix CN to denote plug and socket
assemblies).
There was plenty of composite video signal on CN1108. Similarly, there
was video signal on transistor Q1130,
also designat
ed sync-detect, which
came from board B, plug CN301. I
then noticed IC1101, marked sync-selection, and started measuring the
inputs and outputs of six transistors,
all marked “SYNC”. In the course of all
this measuring, I encountered several
dry joints and resoldered them, each
time praying that this would fix the
22 Silicon Chip
problem. It didn’t.
To add to my woes, the picture was
now displaying the second fault - ie,
no picture – on a regular basis, thus
disrupting my efforts to track down
the missing sync signal. Trying to
follow the video often meant going to
a module where the circuit is marked
“SYNC IN” and “SYNC OUT” – the
only problem is from which board’s
perspective? There are also several
plug/socket combinations where the
plug was marked one thing and the
socket something else.
As I continued my somewhat random quest, I was also pulling out
modules, soldering them, reinstalling
them and where possible, measuring
any voltages. Gradually I was getting
a feel for the thing – the intermittent
picture appeared to be caused by the
J board/B board connection, a rather
clever plug and socket combination
(CN308/2301 CN309/2302) that also
acts as a hinge. This was either noisy
due to dirty contacts or had dry joints.
Anyway, I cleaned the contacts and
resoldered all the joints around this
assembly and that fixed the intermittent picture problem.
Getting back to the sync problem,
I eventually found that there was
video coming out of IC1101 into pin
3 of CN1113 but no video was coming
out of SYNC pin 2. This pin in turn
connects to pin 3 of CN1107 (marked
SYNC IN), after which the signal goes
to sync module A2 CN4401 and then
back to IC3501 on the A board, via
Q3512 SYNC 3, etc.
CN1113 is connected to CN01 of the
Teletext “V” board and the circuit, on
page 107 of the service manual, designates pin 2 as ST TV. I took the board
out and did a routine dry joint check
but could find nothing untoward at
first glance.
However, the circuit shows a 0.6A
fuse (PS01) connected between an 8V
rail (pin 6 of CN01) and the collector
of 5V regulator transistor, Q02 (Fig.2).
This transistor delivers a regulated 5V
at its emitter and this rail feeds pin 10
of IC02. The PS01 fuse, by the way, is
called a “circuit protector chip” and
looks like a two-legged transistor with
N15 marked on it.
Anyway, as luck would have it,
this fuse measured open circuit,
meaning that there was no 5V on pin
10 of IC02 or on the collector of Q03
(SYNC-OUT). Replacing it restored
the composite video and gave a perfect picture.
Subsequently, I was talking to a
Sony service centre a few days later.
After concluding other business, I
mentioned my saga and its victorious outcome only to be promptly
informed that it was a well-known
problem. However, my informant
did admit that he didn’t know why
it happened.
In effect, this was a classic example
of the effort which can be involved in
tracing a fault in an unfamiliar chassis.
The fault was simple enough in itself
but the symptoms provided few clues
and in the absence of someone who
says “that’s a well known problem”,
there is nothing for it but to do it the
SC
hard way.
This handy solar panel regulator
measures the voltage across your
battery or the charging current
and will disconnect the panel to
stop overcharging. It works with
12V or 24V systems and has a
3.5-digit liquid crystal display.
Design by ALAN BONNARD
Solar panels are becoming ever more commonplace but the regulators can be pricey
items indeed. You do need a regulator otherwise there is a real risk that a permanently
connected solar panel will overcharge your
battery and cause it to boil dry.
This low cost regulator is especially attractive since it has the bonus of the LCD panel
to show the voltage or current. There will
no longer be any need to dig out your trusty
multimeter to check the state of the battery – it
is on display all the time.
There are two switches associated with the
regulator. The slide switch selects 24V or 12V
operation and will only need to be set when
the unit is initially connected up. The toggle
switch is used to select voltage or current
readings on the LCD panel. It will read current
up to 5A and voltage up to 30V.
There is a 4-way insulated terminal block
December
DECEMBER
1999 23
1999 23
Whether you have a large or small solar panel, you will need a solar panel
regulator to avoid overcharging your battery. This design works at 12V or 24V
and includes an LCD to show voltage or current. The solar panel is from BP
Solar – Model BP 280F, 80W, $795 rrp. Phone (02) 9454 5111.
for the connections to the battery and
solar panel and all connections can
be permanent, since the regulator’s
operation is automatic.
A relay disconnects the solar panel
when the battery reaches full charge
and a LED comes on to indicate this
condition. A series diode prevents the
battery from discharging via the panel
when the sun goes down.
Circuit description
Fig.1 shows the circuit diagram
and it can be broken down into two
parts. First, there is the voltage and
current sensing portion which drives
the 3.5-digit liquid crystal display
(LCD). Second, there is a voltage
comparator for controlling the relay
which connects the solar panel to the
battery bank.
Let’s have a look at the voltage and
current sensing functions for the LCD
first. The LCD is driven by IC5, an
ICL7106 digital voltmeter chip which
is normally set to provide a maximum
sensitivity of 2V or 200mV DC, depending on the resistors at pins 32, 35
& 36. In this circuit, the ICL7106 is set
to a sensitivity of 1V by trimpot VR1.
Ergo, the voltage monitoring circuit
should feed no more than 1V to IC5.
24 Silicon Chip
The circuit is set to monitor voltage or current. The battery voltage is
monitored using a divider network
comprising resistors R3 and R4. These
provide a division ratio of about 93:1
to reduce the voltage to around 130mV
for a 12V battery or 260mV for a 24V
battery. This divided down voltage is
fed to op amp IC1b which is connected
as a unity gain buffer to drive the input
of IC5, the ICL7106. We will come back
to IC5 in a moment.
To monitor current, we use IC2, a
MAX472 current sensing amplifier.
The charging current from the solar
panel array is fed via a .01Ω (10 milliohms) shunt resistor connected to the
inputs of IC2 and it provides a current
output which is proportional to the
current being monitored. The output
current is then fed to a 1kΩ resistor
Main Features
•
•
•
•
•
Suitable for 12V and 24V systems.
High efficiency.
Voltage and current readout on
3.5-digit LCD.
Automatic disconnection and
reconnection of battery at set points.
Suitable for currents up to 5A.
and the result is a voltage which is
proportional to the charging current:
100mV for every 1A of current flow
through the sensing resistor. Thus for
a charging current of 5A, we will have
500mV fed to IC5.
The voltage and current signals are
fed via switch S2a to IC5, the ICL7106.
Since the voltage and current signals
are referred to the 0V line in the circuit,
the ICL7106 needs a negative supply
rail if it is to function correctly. This
is provided by IC4, an ICL7660 +5V
to -5V converter. This is essentially
a “charge pump”, which alternately
switches two capacitors, C8 and C9,
between the voltage rails to produce
-5V at pin 5.
IC5, the ICL7106, provides all the
necessary internal circuitry to carry
out the conversion from the analog
input at pin 31 to drive the liquid
crystal display. Well, it drives all the
relevant pins on the LCD except those
for the decimal points and these vary,
depending on whether voltage or current is being displayed.
So to drive the decimal points we
use two gates of a 4030 quad exclusive-OR gate package, IC6. This takes
the backplane signal from IC5 and
switches it to the appropriate decimal
point connection on the LCD, depending on whether current or voltage has
been selected by switch S2. Notice that
the “test” output, pin 37 of IC5, is used
Fig.1: op amp IC1a is set up as a
comparator to monitor the battery
voltage. If the voltage rises above
13.9V (for a 12V battery) the relay
disconnects the solar panel.
DECEMBER 1999 25
Parts List
1 PC board, 152 x 72mm
1 3.5-digit liquid crystal display
1 slide switch (S1)
1 DPDT toggle switch (S2)
1 6V SPST relay with 5A contacts
2 40-pin IC sockets
1 4-way PC terminal block
2 TO-220 heatsinks
1 20kΩ horizontal mount trimpot (VR1)
Semiconductors
1 LM358 op amp (IC1)
1 MAX472 current sense op amp (IC2)
1 LM336Z 2.5V reference (IC3)
1 ICL7660 +5V to -5V converter (IC4)
1 ICL7106 3.5-digit LCD driver with A/D
converter (IC5)
1 CD4030 exclusive-OR gate (IC6)
1 7805 5V regulator (REG1)
2 C9013 NPN transistors (Q1,Q2)
1 red LED (LED1)
1 U840 power diode (D1)
1 1N4004 diode (D2)
Capacitors
1 100µF 50VW PC electrolytic
1 22µF 16VW PC electrolytic
3 10µF 16VW PC electrolytic
1 1µF MKT polyester
1 0.22µF MKT polyester
1 .047µF MKT polyester
1 .01µF MKT polyester
1 100pF ceramic
Resistors (0.25W, 5%)
1 1MΩ
1 22kΩ
1 470kΩ
1 11kΩ
1 110kΩ
4 10kΩ
1 100kΩ
1 5.6kΩ
1 56kΩ
1 2.7kΩ
1 24kΩ
1 2.2kΩ
1 1kΩ 2W wirewound
1 1.2kΩ
4 1kΩ
1 470Ω
1 270Ω
2 100Ω
1 0.01Ω 1W
as the ground supply connection for
IC6. This is not a mistake as one of the
functions of the test output is to serve
as the ground supply connection for
any decimal point switching circuit.
Resistors R25 and R26 are included
to pull pins 9 & 12 to 0V when they
are not selected by switch pole S2b.
Solar panel switching
Op amp IC1a and transistors Q1
& Q2 control the relay switching of
the solar panel. IC1a is connected as
a comparator with IC3 providing a
reference voltage to its non-inverting
input, pin 3. Pin 2 then monitors the
battery voltage via resistors R6, R7 &
26 Silicon Chip
Fig.2: the parts layout for the PC board. The LCD mounts
above the ICL7106 (IC5). Note that the 7805 regulator must
be fitted with a heatsink.
R8 for the 12V mode and R5, R7 & R8
for the 24V mode, as selected by slide
switch S1. In the 12V mode, once the
battery voltage rises above 13.9V, pin
1 of IC1a goes low and this turns off
Q1 which turns on Q2 and the relay to
disconnect the solar panel. LED1 is lit
while ever the relay is energised and
the panel is disconnected.
The battery then discharges over a
period of time to 13.1V whereupon pin
1 of IC1a goes high, Q1 turns on, and
Q2 and the relay turn off to connect
the solar panel again.
For the 24V mode, the panel is dis-
connected when the battery voltage
rises above 27.6V and reconnected
when it falls to 25.9V.
Another point to note about the circuit is that diode D1 is there to prevent
the battery discharging via the solar
panel when it is not delivering power
(eg, after sunset or during heavy cloud
cover). However, there is no protection
for the circuit if the battery is connected the wrong way around.
Construction
All the components of the circuit,
including the LCD panel, are mounted
Resistor Colour Codes
No.
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
4
1
1
1
1
5
1
1
2
1
Value
1MΩ
470kΩ
110kΩ
100kΩ
56kΩ
24kΩ
22kΩ
11kΩ
10kΩ
5.6kΩ
2.7kΩ
2.2kΩ
1.2kΩ
1kΩ
470Ω
270Ω
100Ω
0.01Ω
on a PC board measuring 152 x 72mm.
The ICL7106 (IC5) and some of its
associated components are mounted
underneath the LCD panel to conserve
board space. The component layout
is shown in Fig.2.
Insert and solder the links and
resistors first, followed by the capacitors, diode D2, trimpot VR1 and
the three transistors. Take care when
mounting the LM336Z (IC3) because
it looks like a TO-92 transistor – don’t
get it mixed up with the transistors.
Both the power diode (D1) and the
7805 3-terminal regulator require a
heatsink although our prototype did
not have a heatsink fitted to the regulator. A small U-shaped heatsink is
adequate if 12V operation is all that
is required but a somewhat larger
U-shaped heatsink will be required
to cope with 24V battery operation.
The four small ICs (IC1, IC2, IC3 &
IC4) can be soldered directly into the
PC board but IC5 and the LCD panel
should be installed in sockets. For
this reason, two 40-pin IC sockets are
required. One of the 40-pin sockets
must be cut in half and both halves
installed to provide the socket for
the LCD.
Next, install the 4-way insulated
terminal block, the relay, LED1 and
the slide switch. Switch S2 is connected via a 6-way length of ribbon
cable.
Setup and testing
Once all components are installed
we are then ready to set up the regu-
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black green brown
yellow violet yellow brown
brown brown yellow brown
brown black yellow brown
green blue orange brown
red yellow orange brown
red red orange brown
brown brown orange brown
brown black orange brown
green blue red brown
red violet red brown
red red red brown
brown red red brown
brown black red brown
yellow violet brown brown
red violet brown brown
brown black brown brown
not applicable
lator. The first step is to connect a variable DC power supply to the battery
input connections. This should be set
to around 12V. Now check that +5V is
present at the output of REG1, at pin 8
of IC1 and IC4, at pin 1 of IC5 and pin
14 of IC6. You should also be able to
measure +2.5V at the positive connec
tion of IC3 (middle terminal). This is
best measured at the junction of R9 &
R10. On our prototype, we measured
the 2.5V reference at 2.4864V (on a
Tektronix 4.5-digit DMM).
Now measure the supply voltage
with your digital multimet
er and
adjust trimpot VR1 so that the LCD
gives the same reading.
Next, set the slide switch for 12V
operation (slider away from relay) and
slowly wind up the supply voltage.
The relay should click and LED1
should light as the voltage rises above
13.9V. Now wind the supply slowly
down and observe that the relay clicks
again and LED1 goes out as the supply
voltage goes below 13V.
Note that the exact voltages are
not crucial; anywhere between 13.7V
and 14V is fine for the disconnection
point, while the reconnection point
should be around 13V.
If the relay is not operating as it
should, check the components around
Q1 & Q2. You can also check whether
pin 1 of IC1 switches low for supply
voltages above 13.8V and low for
voltages below 13V.
If you are going to charge a 24V
battery, set the slide switch for 24V
operation (slider close to the relay)
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black yellow brown
yellow violet black orange brown
brown brown black orange brown
brown black black orange brown
green blue black red brown
red yellow black red brown
red red black red brown
brown brown black red brown
brown black black red brown
green blue black brown brown
red violet black brown brown
red red black brown brown
brown red black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
yellow violet black black brown
red violet black black brown
brown black black black brown
not applicable
Capacitor Codes
Value
1µF 1u0 105
0.22µF 220n 224
.047µF 47n 473
.01µF 10n 103
100pF 100p 101
IEC Code
EIA Code
and wind up the supply. The relay
should click and LED1 should light
as the voltage rises above 27.6V. Similarly, the relay should click again and
LED1 should go out as the voltage
drops below 25.9V.
Once all is correct, connect your
solar panel and the bat
tery to the
regulator. The current from the panel
can then be monitored and the orientation can be optimised for maximum
SC
battery charging.
Where To Buy The Kit
The design copyright for the Solar
Regulator is owned by Futurlec who can
supply the kit.
The complete kit is available for $44
plus $5 packing and postage within
Australia. Orders many be placed via
the website at www.futurlec.com and
payment may be made via Bankcard,
Visa Card or Mastercard.
Alternatively, orders may be sent
with a credit card authorisation, cheque
or postal money order to Futurlec, 24
William St, Paterson, NSW 2421.
DECEMBER 1999 27
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
Christmas Motif Lighting from DSE
and Jaycar
If you’ve always been a teensy bit envious of Chevy Chase’s home in Christmas
Vacation, Dick Smith Electronics and Jaycar
stores could be the place to head this festive
season.
Both are offering rages of Christmas motif
lighting in various patterns and sizes, ranging from $19.90 for small patterns at Dick
Smith Electronics up to $449 for a 184cmlong Santa Sleigh at Jaycar. The DSE models
are for indoor use while the Jaycar displays
are suitable for outdoor use as well.
Alternatively, of course, you could build
the microprocessor-controlled LED Christmas tree featured in the November issue of SILICON CHIP. Jaycar Electronics
also have this kit in stock, selling for $49.95 (Cat. KC-5280).
Flow, valve & position sensors
A range of sensors of interest in
organisations involved in gas and
fluid handling have been announced
by Melbourne company, ifm efector
Pty Ltd.
First is a pressure sensor with
high, low and window alarm outputs. They cover
the pressure range
from 1 to 400 Bar,
operate from 18 to
30V DC with outputs rated at 250mA.
Programming is via push buttons.
The centre photo is ifm efector’s
new gas/liquid flow sensor, suitable for zone 1 hazardous areas. Made
from 316Ti stainless
steel and with integral ANSI B 16.5,
1-inch flanges, they
operate to Eex 1a IIC
T4 standards. Setting ranges are 3-300
Emona Y2K Cat
Emona Instruments has a new
88-page Year 2000 catalog covering not the dreaded “bug” but
instrumentation and equipment
for electronics and electrical design, manufacturing, service and
education.
Many of the world’s leading test
equipment manufacturers are represented including Tektronix (for
whom Emona are a distributor),
GW, Thurlby Thandar, Kikusui,
Seaward, Escort, Nicolet, Stag
and Weller.
The catalog is free on request to
(02) 9519 3999 or email testinst<at>
emona.com.au
cm/s (liquids) and 100-2000 cm/s
(gases).
The third photo is one of their new
valve position sensors which easily
fit to most standard valve actuators.
There are various versions including standard versions and hazardous-area versions rated to IP67.
For more information, contact
ifm efector Pty
Ltd, PO Box 4084,
Auburn South,
Vic 3122. Phone
1300 365 088; fax
1300 375 070.
Precision Handheld Thermometers from Fluke
Fluke Australia have released
a new range of hand-held thermometers particularly suited to
applications in the food and process manufacturing industries but
also having electronics industry
applications.
There are 7 models in the new
series ranging from the low-cost 50
II series (pictured) through to the
54 II which, along with the 53-II,
features powerful logging capabilities and a PC interface.
Accuracy is within 0.05% +0.3°C.
28 Silicon Chip
All models can handle a much
wider range of thermocouples than
the previous 50 series. They are also
splash and dust-resistant and each
has a holster for protection.
Included in the range is an infrared model which requires no
physical contact with the item being measured. This is intended for
applications where contact could be
hazardous or the item is moving. A
laser beam is incorporated to assist
aim and accuracy is within 1°.
There is a comprehensive range
of accessories
available.
For further
information
contact Fluke
Australia, 26/
7 Anella Ave,
Castle Hill
NSW 2154.
Phone (02)
8850 3300,
fax (02) 8859
3300 or www.
fluke.com
Precision battery capacity meter
Smart Fastchargers have a new
PC-based battery capacity meter
which can check battery capacity (at any discharge current) for
applications where maximum
capacity and a knowledge of
the available discharge time are
important. It can also be used to
match individual cells in battery
packs for optimum capacity.
Connection to the PC is via any
available serial port, which the
software automatically detects.
Operating range is from 1.2V to
48V 30mAh to 130Ah with adjustable end of discharge voltage from
0V to 48V ad discharge time range
from 1 minute to 30 hours. It also
calculates and displays optimum
discharge voltage.
The graphic display shows curves
for capacity in mA.h and for discharge voltage. It also shows percentage of nominal capacity, energy in
watt-hours, elapsed time, maximum
discharge time and discharge current, plus end of discharge voltage.
60VA to 3KVA encased toroids
The program also calculates and displays the optimum end of discharge
voltage for each battery.
The battery is discharged through
a resistor – from 0.01Ω to 50kΩ, or an
optional constant current sink from
5mA to 2000mA.
The software runs on any PC with
either DOS or Windows and a VGA
display.
For further information contact
Smart Fastchargers – Phone 03 6492
1368, Fax 03 6492 1329, email smartfastchargers<at>bigpond.com
Video microscope for industrial uses
The new Chroma 7310 Video Microscope from Nilsen Technologies
is ideally suited to electronics manufacture and general quality control
applications.
It’s a CCD-based camera which
provides distortion-free images. An
advantage of this approach is that multiple-viewing is possible, frames can be
frozen and the image can be recorded to
a VCR or PC fitted with a video capture
card for archiving purposes.
The magnification range is from 20x
to 300x with a large depth-of-field,
making a very versatile instrument.
STEPDOWN
TRANSFORMERS
For more information contact Nilsen
Technologies, 150 Oxford St, Collingwood, Vic 3066. Freephone 1800 623
350, freefax 1800 067 263.
Harbuch Electronics Pty Ltd
9/40 Leighton Pl. HORNSBY 2077
Ph (02) 9476-5854 Fx (02) 9476-3231
New semis from REC
REC Electronics have released three
new semiconductors of interest to professionals and hobbyists alike.
The new Zetek Schottky barrier
diodes in miniature SOT323 and
SOD-323 packages offer space savings
of up to 60% over comparable SOT23
devices. Suitable for a wide range of
detection, mixing and modulation
tasks at UHF, they feature low forward
voltage (410mV <at> 1mA max) and high
breakdown voltage.
Also released are new micropower
low dropout linear regulators (300mV
dropout) suitable for a range of portable equipment, with fixed outputs of
2.5V, 3.3V or 5V or adjustable between
1.22V and 20V.
Finally, the Linear Technology A1,
600kHz boost switcher delivers 28V
for TFT liquid crystal displays.
For more information, contact REC
Electronics, Locked Bag 29, PO Rydalmere NSW 2116. Phone (02) 9638
1888; fax (02) 9638 1798, or offices
interstate and New Zealand.
Meccano is back at DSE
Hands up if you “cut your teeth” on Meccano? It’s the mechanical construction system that has enthralled children and
adults alike for generations. Strips, girders, nuts, bolts, brackets,
wheels, axles, gears and pulleys – they used to say if it could
be made it could be made with Meccano.
Now it’s back – at Dick Smith Electronics. With impeccable
timing, given the Jolly Red Suited Chap is only days away, all
DSE stores (including PowerHouse stores) have Meccano kits
ranging from easy-to-build through to engineering level. All
come with a motor to make things that actually “do things”.
DECEMBER 1999 29
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions from
readers are welcome and will be paid for at standard rates.
Reverse battery
protection with
low voltage drop
It is often a good idea to incorporate
a diode in series with the power leads
to a circuit operating off an external
battery. The diode will prevent damage
in case of a reversed battery connection but it does have a drawback in
that it will produce a voltage drop of
typically around 0.7V in the case of an
ordinary silicon diode or 0.4V in the
case of a Schottky diode.
This voltage drop is generally
undesirable because it reduces both
the voltage and power available to
the circuit. The voltage drop can be
reduced significantly by using an
enhancement mode Mosfet transistor
in place of a diode as shown in the
accompanying diagrams. This idea is
based on the same principle as that of
a “synchronous rectifier” as used in
some switching inverters to improve
These diagrams show how to use
p-channel and n-channel Mosfets to
provide reverse battery protection.
efficiency. Initial operation depends
on an internal diode in the Mosfet.
Assuming that the battery connection is correct, the diode initially
conducts, establishing a forward bias
to the gate of the Mosfet. The Mosfet
then turns on and transistor action
takes over. Current now flows through
the Mosfet itself rather than through
the diode because of a smaller voltage
drop across the Mosfet. In the case of a
reversed battery connection, the diode
is reverse biased and so is the gate of
the Mosfet, so the Mosfet is thereby
turned off, protecting the circuit from
damage.
The top circuit shows a version
using a p-channel Mosfet in the positive power lead to a load. The bottom
circuit is a version using an n-channel
Mosfet in the negative power lead.
Using this circuit I measured about
0.1V drop across the Mosfet at 2A
load current and a 12V input. This
compares with about 0.7V under the
same conditions using an ordinary diode. This represents an 85% reduction
in power dissipation in the Mosfet
compared with that in the diode and
a 10% increase in power available to
a resistive load.
Note that this circuit will not work
in battery charging circuits.
H. Nacinovich,
Gulgong, NSW. ($30)
Power-on muting for
PC FM tuner
This circuit shows the modifications
required to provide a power-on reset.
30 Silicon Chip
On some computers, the PC FM
Tuner card (published June 1998)
may produce noise while the machine is booting. The solution to
this is to provide a power-on reset
to the 74LS273 octal D flipflop.
The 74LS273 will then mute the
4053 multiplexer and no signal
will be fed to the LM386 power
amplifier.
The power-on reset is provided
by the 1kΩ resistor feeding pin 1 of
IC1 from the +5V line and this is
bypassed by the 100µF capacitor.
When power is first applied, the
100µF capacitor will hold pin 1
low to reset the chip. The capacitor will then charge via the 1kΩ
resistor and normal operation will
then take place.
The modification entails braking tracks on both sides of the PC
board as shown on the accompa-
Here’s how to modify the PC board.
nying diagram and then connecting
the 1kΩ resistor and 100µF capacitor
as shown. The +5V connection to IC1
must then be made via a link from
pin 14 of IC7.
Note that if your PC FM tuner card
does not experience the noise problem while booting, there is no need
to do this modification.
Mark Roberts,
Hornsby, NSW. ($40)
Truscott’s
!RESELLER FOR MAJOR KIT
RETAILERS
!PROTOTYPING EQUIPMENT
!COMPLETE CB RADIO
SUPPLY HOUSE
Backup battery
for AC-powered
cordless phones
While the article on a backup
battery for cordless phones in the
October 1999 issue tried to cover all possibilities, inevitably it
didn’t. Some cordless phones are
powered by AC plugpacks such
as 13.5V AC and 10VAC. If you
have a 13.5VAC model there is no
easy solution but if your cordless
phone is powered from a 10VAC
plugpack, the solution is shown in
the accompanying circuit.
The cordless phone itself will
have an internal bridge rectifier so
that it can be powered with AC or
DC. Therefore we can use a modification of the October 1999 circuit
whereby the 10VAC plugpack is
connected to a bridge rectifier to
keep the 12V SLA battery on trickle
charge via the 100Ω resistor.
The phone itself is then permanently powered from the unfiltered
DC from the bridge rectifier (D1-D4)
or from the battery during blackouts via diode D5.
SILICON CHIP.
!TV ANTENNA ON SPECIAL
(DIGITAL READY)
!LARGE RANGE OF
ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS
Professional Mail Order Service
Truscott’s
Come In
And See O
New Storeur
ELECTRONIC WORLD Pty Ltd
ACN 069 935 397
Ph (03) 9723 3860
Fax (03) 9725 9443
27 The Mall, South Croydon, Vic 3136
(Melway Map 50 G7)
email: truscott<at>acepia.net.au
www.electronicworld.aus.as
R
VA EAL
$1 LUE AT
+$5 2.9
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Order by phone or fax from SILICON CHIP - or use the handy order form in this issue
DECEMBER 1999 31
Here's a way that anyone with a working computer can get a handy fixed rail
power supply with several outputs. It's a little card to slot into your computer
to give fixed +12V, +9V, +6V and +5V rails. You can use it to power equipment
that would normally run from plugpacks or as an experimenter's power supply.
PC POWERHOU
Get four fixed rail supplies for minimum dollars
Design by BARRY HUBBLE
There are two good reasons to build
this project. First, if you are plagued
with the problem of having too many
plugpacks to be fitted into a 240VAC
power board, the PC Power Extender
may enable to eliminate some or all of
them. Second, perhaps you've often
been working on a project and you
want a power supply with a fixed
output of 12V, 9V or whatever. Well,
if you have a PC you already have a
thumping big power supply builtin, so why not use it?
Just getting back to those plugpacks for a moment, they really
are a problem aren't they? You
can't fit two plugpacks next to
each other in any standard
double power point or power-board and you often can't
fit a standard power plug
into a double power point
if you already have a large
plugpack running from it.
They are just too big and
bulky. Wouldn't it be good if
you could get rid of them altogether? For example, if you have
an external modem, a scanner and a
printer all running from plugpacks,
you might be able to run them all from
your PC's built-in power supply.
This is one of those ideas that is so
32 Silicon Chip
obvious that you may well be thinking
"Why didn't I think of that?" or "How
come it's taken this long for someone to
think of
this?" Well, while
we might contemplate our
(collective) navels about why
some ideas take such a long time to
become obvious, let's not muck about.
Let's just look at the circuit of
Fig.1.
As you can
see, it takes
power via a
standard DC
connector in
an IBM-compatible comp u t e r. T h e
+12V and
+5V rails are
connected
via 1A fuses
to standard
2.1mm sockets. At the same
time, the +12V
rail is also fed to
two 3-terminal
regulators which
then provide a fixed
+9V and +6V and
their outputs also
connect to 2.1mm
sockets.
Of course, you
might want to vary it
a bit. You might want
an 8V output instead of
6V and this is easily fixed
by fitting an 8V regulator
instead of a 6V type. Or you might
decide you want to two 9V outputs
and this is easy: just fit two 9V regulators. Each regulator has an effective
current limit of about 1A, so you get
four fixed supply rails each with an
output capability of about 1A.
The circuit is so simple that there
is really not much more to say. But
perhaps you are worried about the
extra load that might be placed on
your computer's power supply. Can
it handle it?
Well, think of it this way. If your
machine has a standard 200W or
250W power supply, you would not
think twice about adding another
hard disk drive, maybe another CD or
DVD-ROM drive,
a ZIP drive or
whatever. Most
computers have
buckets of spare
capacity, so the
extra drain due to
this small circuit
is hardly worth thinking about.
As well, PC power supplies are well
designed and will normally shut down
without damage if they are overloaded;
normal operation being resumed after
removal of the overload. A typical
200W computer power supply would
have a capacity of 8A for the +12V
rail and 20A for the +5V rail but how
much of that your system uses is your
guess. And whether the supply really
can deliver a full 200W is probably
doubtful but suffice to say that most
computers still have oodles of spare
power supply capacity.
By having a power supply extender
with four outputs of +12V, +9V, +6V
and +5V, all at 1A capacity, we are
unlikely to embarrass the vast majority of computer power supplies. After
all, you are unlikely to use all output
simultaneously at their full outputs a more likely scenario is that the PC
Power Extender would only draw
about 10W or less, depending on what
you connect to it.
By the way, computer power supplies also have -12V and -5V outputs
but these have only a limited capacity
and we do not recommend that you
attempt to use these outputs as well.
Leave them strictly alone.
USE
PC board mounting
The PC board for this project is
mounted in the computer with the aid
of a PC mounting plate with integral
Fig.1: using the existing +12V and +5V rails in your computer, this circuit uses
two 3-terminal regulators to provide +9V and +6V.
mounting brackets. You may have to
salvage one from an obsolete card. If
you can't obtain a PC mounting plate
with these mounting brackets you may
have to make up a couple of righthand
brackets yourself; not an onerous task.
Another part that you may be able to
salvage would be a 4-pin PC-mounted
power connector from a scrapped disk
drive.
Due to the mounting plate being
screwed to the computer's chassis and
therefore at mains Earth potential, all
the jack output sockets MUST have
the centre pin wired as the positive
connection, to prevent the possibility
of short circuiting an output.
This may not conform to some of
the devices you want to power. For
example, powered multi-media speak-
Fig.2: the component layout for the PC board. You will need to
bolt down the regulators and their heatsinks to the board. Low
profile heatsinks must be used. The additional holes alongside C1
& C2 are to accomodate physically larger capacitors if needed.
DECEMBER 1999 33
The prototype PC Power Extender, looking
towards the four output sockets. Note that
these photos do not show the two 0.1µF
capacitors that we have added to the input
sides of the regulators.
ers seem to have the centre pin as the
negative connection. In such cases it
will be necessary to reverse the leads
on one end of the cable connecting the
output to these devices.
These leads must then be clearly
labelled as being a reversed configuration. You could do this by using
white heatshrink sleeving and a
permanent marking pen to label the
cable.
While most devices these days are
protected against reverse voltage, they
are not necessarily protected against
over-voltage and the outputs of the
PC Power Extender must be clearly
labelled.
This problem was overcome with
the prototype by having small printed
labels, laminated them on both sides
with an adhesive laminate to stiffen
them. They were attached so they
cover the outlets.
By using an additional nut on each
DC socket, the label can be mounted
34 Silicon Chip
so that it may swivel freely to one side
when a plug is inserted.
Assembly
You can begin construction by
drilling the holes in the mounting
plate, as shown in Fig.3. If necessary
you will have to fabricate and attach
two small `L' brackets to secure the
blanking plate to the PC board. Install
the four DC sockets with their output
voltage labels.
Next, mount the PC board so that
its output pads are adjacent to their
respective sockets. If you don't do
this correctly, the PC board may be
mounted too low and will liable to
foul the bus expansion sockets on the
motherboard.
The two 3-terminal regulators and
their heatsinks are bolted to the PC
board. Mount all components on the
PC board observing the polarity of the
electrolytic capacitors. You can make
the connections to the DC sockets
Note: if this project is used to drive
powered loudspeakers for a PC,
you should first check that the
ground of the signal line (ie, shield
connection) is not connected to the
positive supply for the speakers.
While we have not encountered this
situation, it is not suitable for the
PC Powerhouse as it would cause
a short circuit to occur across the
5V output.
with tin-coated copper wire. In each
case, the positive lead must go to the
centre-pin of the socket.
To make the connection from your
computer's power supply to the PC
board your will need to find a spare
4-pin disk drive power cable which
will normally be dangling inside the
machine.
If there are no spares, you will have
to install a disk drive power splitter
cable.
Before you make any connections,
check the voltages at the pins of your
disk drive connector. The yellow lead
be +12V and the red lead +5V. The
two black leads in the centre are the
0V returns.
If you have a DC power supply
which can deliver around 12V, it is
a good idea to hook it up to the PC
board and check the outputs of the
two regulators.
When installing the PC Power Extender board unit in your computer, it
Fig.3: you will need to drill a PC card mounting bracket
to take the four 2.1mm DC power sockets. Compare this
to the photograph at left. The photo also shows small
swivelling voltage labels which the author attached to
the output socket mounting screws.
Parts List
is a good idea to mount it with a free
slot on either side to help with heat
dissipation.
After installation and before putting
the case back on, test the whole system
to ensure the computer power supply
isn't showing any signs of distress
(strange whistles, groans, smells, or
SMOKE!) and that your programs are
SC
operating normally.
1 PC board mounting bracket
with rightangle lugs (see text)
1 PC board, 89 x 89mm, code
12112991
4 2.1mm rectangular panel
mount DC sockets
2 M205 1A slow blow fuses
4 M205 PC-mount fuse clips
1 PC rightangle mount disk drive
4-pin power connector
(Altronics Cat P-5671 or
equivalent)
2 low profile TO220 heatsinks
2 'L' mounting brackets (see text)
12 2.5mm x 9mm screws
18 2.5mm nuts
Capacitors
2 470uF 25VW electrolytic
2 0.1uF MKT polyester
2 .01uF MKT polyester
Fig.4: actual size
artwork for the PC
board. Use this to
check your board for
defects before
installing any of the
components.
Semiconductors
1 7809 9V regulator (REG1)
1 7806 6V regulator (REG2)
Miscellaneous
Hookup wire if required for power
connector
Disk drive power splitter cable if
required
DECEMBER 1999 35
easure –
r
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or b
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can be ally if you find som
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especia this metal locator
Try out mbing.
beachco
arke
l
by John C
S
EARCHING FOR BURIED
TREASURE is a popular pastime
for many people. For some it's a
dream. For others it's a full-time (and
occasionally lucrative) occupation.
Some comb the beaches for dropped
coins and jewellery (have you ever
noticed when you drop a coin at the
beach how the sand seems to eat it
immediately, even if you see exactly
where it lands? That’s one of Murphy’s
corollaries and is one of the reasons
metal detectors were invented!)
Others try the goldfields, hoping to
“strike it rich” either from a nugget
left undisturbed over the centuries, or
perhaps overlooked in the tailings, or
spoil, from earlier gold mining.
Who knows, there could be another
“Welcome Stranger” just waiting for
you to claim it. (Let us know if you
do!!!!)
Types of detectors
There are many types of metal detectors on the market today ranging
36 Silicon Chip
from the simple and low-cost amateur
variety up to the very complex professional units costing many hundreds,
sometimes thousands, of dollars.
While they’re all designed to perform the one function, to detect metal
objects, they do this in different ways.
Some are able to differentiate between
non-magnetic metals (such as gold, silver and copper) and magnetic metals
comprising iron.
These are called discriminating
metal detectors and are usually complex in their operation and of course
are expensive. Professional treasure
hunters usually use this type because
it saves them lots of digging – to find
nails, metal cans and ring-pulls from
old aluminium cans! (Ring-pulls
haven't been around for more than a
decade but our experience is that every single one of them was discarded
exactly where we wanted to seach . . .)
Other metal detectors are simply
designed to react in the presence of
any metal.
The metal locator described here is
of this type. It simply gives an audible
indication whenever it detects any
type of metal. Whether you’ve found
gold or garbage, well, that’s pure luck!
It is very easy to use and gives a
change in the audio frequency as the
search head is swept across any metal.
It is good for detecting small objects
at a moderate depth and large objects
at a greater depth. Pin-point accuracy
is quite good and with a bit of practice
you can locate an object to within a
few centimeters very easily.
How it works
This detector uses the principle that
the inductance of a coil changes when
a piece of metal is brought near to it.
The coil is a part of a free-running
oscillator with its the coil inductance
and added capacitance setting the
operating frequency.
The coil is located in the search
head which is swept over the ground.
When the coil encounters metal, the
oscillator changes in frequency. This change is detected
and converted to an audio signal which the operator can
hear via an inbuilt speaker or headphones.
Block diagram
Fig.1 shows the general operating principle of the metal
locator. There are two oscillators: the search oscillator
and a second fixed oscillator. A comparator monitors both
oscillator signals and when the search oscillator shifts its
frequency, the comparator's output changes audibly.
The fixed oscillator runs at nine times the frequency of
the search oscillator and so a 1Hz change in the search
oscillator will give a 9Hz change in the audible output,
making it very sensitive. This can be regarded as a modified
beat frequency oscillator (BFO) circuit except that instead
of two oscillators being very close in frequency, one is nine
times the other. How can this be? The secret lies in the
comparator which is really a D-type flipflop.
The output is buffered and amplified to drive a loudspeaker. In operation the search oscillator frequency is
adjusted via coarse and fine tuning controls so that there
is no sound, or a very low frequency growl, comming from
the loudspeaker. When the search head is brought near
metal, the frequency will rise rapidly.
The circuit is shown in Fig.2. It comprises three low cost
ICs, three transistors, a regulator and the search coil, along
with several resistors and capacitors.
The search oscillator is in a Colpits configuration with the
coil in the collector of Q1. The .001µF capacitor between
collector and emitter provides feedback. The oscillator frequency is set by the search coil inductance, the paralleled
.001µF capacitors across the 1kΩ emitter resistor and the
.001µF capacitor between collector and emitter.
Small changes in the base voltage of Q1 change the
collector capacitance which in turn alters the oscillation
frequency. The oscillator must be stable (that is, with minimal drift) so that the frequency controls will not constant
adjustment. To ensure this stability we have specified polystyrene capacitors for the oscillation setting components.
Features
* Audible metal detection
* Loudspeaker or
headphones
* Course and fine
controls
* Volume control
* Stable circuit
* Battery operated
* Low cost
* Ground capacitance
effect eliminated
with shielding
* Ideal for finding
small objects
near soil or
sand surface
Fig.1: block diagram of the metal
detector. The text above explains
the theory of operation.
DECEMBER 1999 37
Fig.2: the circuit diagram.
The signal at the collector is coupled via a 100pF capacitor to the gate
of JFET Q2. Its gate is biassed at half
supply using by two series connected
150kΩ resistors. The output at the
source follows the gate signal and
effectively buffers the oscillator signal
from the next stage, an amplifier based
on NAND gates IC1a and IC1b. These
normally digital gates are operated in
a linear mode by the 100kΩ feedback
resistor between the output (pin 8) and
the input (pins 12/13).
The 10kΩ input resistor and 100kΩ
feedback resistor set the gain at 10.
The resultant signal is “squared up”
by gates with the IC1c and IC1d which
are connected as inverters. The output
from IC1d is applied to the clock input
of the D-flipflop, IC3b.
The fixed oscillator is based on a
2MHz crystal and IC2a, a NAND gate
with its two inputs tied together so
that it becomes an inverter. The 1MΩ
resistor between the output (pin 6)
and the inputs (pins 4 & 5) sets the
inverter as a high gain amplifier and
provides drive to the crystal on the
input side.
The 4.7kΩ resistor driving the crys38 Silicon Chip
tal and the 68pF loading capacitors
form a low pass filter, preventing the
crystal from oscillating at a spurious
frequency.
The output of IC2a (pin 6) drives
another inverter, IC2b, which squares
up the waveform. IC2c and ICd are
connected in parallel and further buffer the signal and provide drive to the
the clock input to of IC3a, a D-flipflop.
The flipflop divides the 2MHz input
by two to give 1MHz at the Q output.
This is applied to the D input of comparator flipflop IC3b.
Oscilloscope Traces
Operation of this flipflop as a comparator is best described by the accompanying oscilloscope waveforms. The
top trace in Fig.4 is the clock input
from the search oscillator after it has
been squared up by IC1c and IC1d as
described earlier. The centre trace is
the 1MHz signal from IC3a.
Note that the search oscillator has
been adjusted so that it is a precise
sub-harmonic of the 1MHz oscillator.
This means that the rising and falling
edges of both waveforms will remain
fixed relative to one another and so the
rising edge of the top waveform which
clocks IC3b will occur when the 1MHz
waveform (the data input to IC3b) is
either always high or always low.
The Q output of IC3b is latched to
the logic level on the D input on each
rising edge of the clock input. Thus if
the level on the D data input is always
the same when the clock goes high we
will have no change at the Q output.
The waveforms in FIg.4show the
fixed oscillator and the search oscillator signals and the resultant mixer
output when the frequencies are in an
exact 9-times multiple. The waveforms
are in phase.
At top is the search oscillator running at 111kHz. The middle trace is
the 1MHz fixed oscillation frequency.
Below it is the mixer output which
remains low. This is because the
positive edges of the search oscillator always find a low on the fixed
oscillator and so the Q output of IC3b
stays low.
Now if the search oscillator changes
in frequency (hey! you’ve found gold!)
the clock signal to IC3b will not be
in phase with the 1MHz input. We
therefore have a slow drift between a
Fig.3: the component overlay. Only the headphone socket is mounted
off the board – even the speaker is glued in place using silicone
sealant. Compare this layout to the photograph overleaf when
assembling the board.
high and a low voltage at the D input
as the clock is sent high. The Q output
thus goes high and low in response to
the changing data pattern.
The oscilloscope waveforms in Fig.5
show what happens when the search
oscillator is slightly slower than the
111kHz in phase frequency.
The positive edge of the search
oscillator finds a low on the fixed
oscillator first and then finds a high
two cycles later.
This is shown as the lower trace and
has a frequency of about 32.5kHz (the
beat between 1MHz and 107.5kHz).
Output
The output signal is fed to Q3, an
emitter follower amplifier, via thevolume control potentiometer. This
Fig.4: the top trace is the clock input from the search
oscillator after it has been squared up. The centre trace
is the 1MHz signal from IC3a.
transistor drives the internal speaker
or the headphones. Plugging in headphones automatically switches the
internal speaker off.
Power for the circuit is derived
from a 6V battery comprising four AA
cells. The audio amplifier is powered
directly from the 6V rail but the rest
of the circuit runs from a regulated 5V
rail provided by REG1, an LM2940T-5.
Fig.5: this shows what happens when the search
oscillaor is slightly slower. The mixer output now
shows a frequency of 27kHz.
DECEMBER 1999 39
Two views of the disassembled case
showing the PC board from above and
below. In the photo above, note the
way the speaker is glued to the board
using silicone sealant. The battery
case (left photo) needs to be of the
“long skinny” variety to fit under the
PC board.
This is a low dropout regulator which
will continue to regulate even if the
battery voltage is close to 5V.
Current consumption of the circuit is 15mA when the volume is
turned fully down, rising to 25mA
when there is a loud tone in from the
loudspaeker.
Much care has been taken to ensure
that the various stages are isolated
from each another. This prevents the
search oscillator from being “pulled”
by the fixed oscillator to lock onto
a sub-harmonic. This would cause
reduced sensitivity.
The search oscillator is decoupled
from the 5V supply via a 220Ω resistor
and 47µF capacitor in parallel with a
0.1µF capacitor. The 0.1µF capacitor
is there to compensate for the fact that
the 47µF electrolytic capacitor is not
as effective at high frequencies.
IC1 is also decoupled with a 220Ω
resistor and 47µF capacitor, while the
fixed oscillator (IC2) is decoupled with
a 10Ω resistor and 47µF and 0.1µF
capacitors.
Construction
Most of the components for the Fortune Finder are mounted on a PC board
40 Silicon Chip
coded 04303001 and measuring 132 x
87mm. It mounts in a plastic case 157 x
95 x 54mm and a label measuring 154
x 90mm is affixed to the lid.
Begin construction by checking the
PC board for shorts between tracks,
breaks in tracks and hole sizes. Larger
holes are required to mount the regulator (3mm hole using an M3 screw
and nut), for the switch S1 lugs (1.5mm
each) and the cutout required for the
loudspeaker magnet to pass through
(about 35mm).
You can make the cutout for the
loudspeaker using a series of small
holes around the perimeter and then
filing to shape. Some commercial PC
boards may have this hole punched.
Begin by inserting the resistors and
links using tinned copper wire. The
resistors can be selected using the
colour code table and/or measuring
each value with a digital multimeter.
The capacitors are inserted next,
taking care to orient the electrolytics
with the shown polarity. The accompanying table shows the possible
markings on the low value capacitor.
Apart from the five .001µF capacitors
which must be polystyrene types
for stability, the low-value capac-
itors can be either monolithic or
ceramic types.
Next, insert and solder the crystal
and semiconductors (transistors, and
crystalICs and regulator), making sure
you insert the semiconductors with the
correct orientation and position. The
regulator is mounted lying down and
secured with an M3 screw and nut.
The leads are bent down 90° at the
appropriate points, inserted through
their holes and soldered into the PC
board. Switch S1 mounts with the terminals inserted directly into through
the PC board holes and soldered on
the other side..
Cut the pot shafts to about 10mm
long, suitable for the knobs used. Note
that there are five pins used for each
potentiometer with three pins for the
terminals and two pins for securing
and earthing each pot body.
Immediately before inserting and
soldering the pots, scrape the plating
off the pot body alongside where the
two pins will be located to make soldering these pins to the body easier.
Each pot is mounted about 2mm
above the PC board, with the PC stakes
soldered to the terminals. Solder the
scraped pot body to the PC pin along-
The handle assembly prior to mounting the box. Note the
rebates in the dowel for the saddle clamps. . .
side. You will need a good, hot iron
for this operation.
The lid of the case requires drilling
for the loudspeaker holes, the pot
shafts and for the power switch. Use
the front panel label (or a photocopy)
as a guide to the locations of the holes.
Attach the label after drilling and cut
the holes in this with a sharp knife.
Attach a 130mm length of hookup
wire to one terminal of the loudspeaker and a 60mm length to the second
terminal and insert the loudspeaker
through the hole in the PC board.
. . . and an “above” and “below” view showing how the
box is fixed to the dowel.
Secure the PC board to the lid of the
case with the pot bushes and power
switch. Turn the assembly over with
the pot shafts resting on a table. Centre
the loudspeaker and secure it to the
rear of the PC board with some silicone
sealant. Allow to cure.
Drill holes in the case for the cord
grip grommet at the front edge and for
the headphone jack socket on the side.
Search Coil Assembly
Fig.4 shows the coil plate assembly.
It consists of a baseplate, coil assembly,
brackets for the handle and a cover
plate.
The coil assembly is attached to the
baseplate with silicone sealant. The
brackets are attached with wood glue
(PVA) and with holes in the side suitable for the wooden or plastic dowel.
A slot is cut in the plastic plate for the
broomstick to pass through and attach
to the angle brackets. The plate is then
held in place with two 4G self-tapping
screws into the brackets. The use of
such small metal screws does not affect
the metal locator operation.
Fig.8: complete details of the various components of the Fortune Finder metal
locator. We have specified a broom stick instead of dowel because broom sticks
are usuall more durable timber than ordinary dowel.
DECEMBER 1999 41
Parts List
1 PC board, code 04303001, 132 x 87mm
1 label, 154 x 90mm
1 plastic case, 157 x 95 x 54mm
1 57mm 8Ω loudspeaker
1 SPDT toggle switch, S1
1 4 x AA cell holder (2 x AA long x 2 x AA wide)
4 AA cells
1 2MHz parallel resonant crystal, X1
2 10kΩ 25mm log potentiometers, VR1,VR3
1 100kΩ 25mm linear potentiometer, VR2
1 stereo switched 6.35mm jack panel socket
3 knobs
1 small cord grip grommet
21 PC stakes
6 6g x 10mm self tapping screws
2 4g x 10mm self tapping screws
1 wood or plastic dowel 8mm diameter 40mm long
1 300mm x 300mm piece of aluminium foil
1 roll of insulating tape
1 20mm x 60mm x 1.5mm aluminium for battery
holder bracket
1 plastic cable tie
1 container of silicone sealant (non-acid cure – eg,
roof and gutter sealant)
Hardware and wire
1 base of 3mm MDF, 170mm diameter or thicker
lightweight timber
1 plastic plate 170mm inside diameter (size to suit base)
2 timber or plastic angle brackets (20 x 20 x 20mm minimum)
2 2m long 20-22mm diameter broom handles
2 dual mounting 20mm conduit plastic saddle clamps
3 90 degree 20mm pvc elbows (Clipsal 245/20 or equiv)
1 32m length of 0.4mm enamelled copper wire
1 1m length of 0.8mm tinned copper wire
1 2m length of single core shielded cable
2 M3 screws x 6mm
4 M3 screws x 10mm
6 M3 nuts
1 6g x 30mm wood screw
The search coil is made using
0.4mm enamelled copper wire. It has
70 turns, wound to make a 140mm
inside diameter circle. The accompanying panel shows how it is done.
If you don’t have a 140mm diameter
former to wind it on, the simplest way
of winding the coil is to find a 215mm x
30mm length of wood or plastic. Wind
70 turns around this, slide the coil off
the wood or plastic and then open this
rectangle into a 140mm circle.
Wind a layer of insulating tape
tightly around this, with the two start
and finish wiresleads exiting at the
same point.
Now cut aluminium foil into strips
20mm wide and wind these around
the coil, starting at the wire exit point.
Cover the start end with insulating tape
for the first 20mm or so. Completely
wrap the coil in the aluminium foil
until it reaches the wire exit point and
continue to cover the insulation-taped
coil for the next 10mm.
Make sure the finish end of this
aluminium does not come in contact
42 Silicon Chip
Semiconductors
2 74HC00 quad NAND gates (IC1,IC2)
1 74HC74 dual D-flipflop (IC3)
1 BC558 PNP transistor (Q1)
1 2N5484 N-channel JFET (Q2)
1 BC338 NPN transistor (Q3)
1 LM2940T-5 low dropout 5V regulator (REG1)
Capacitors
4 47µF 16VW PC electrolytic
1 10µF 16VW PC electrolytic
1 0.22µF polyester or ceramic
4 0.1µF polyester or ceramic
5 .001µF (1000pF) polystyrene
1 100pF NP0 ceramic
2 68pF NP0 ceramic
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
1 1MΩ
2 150kΩ
3 10kΩ
2 4.7kΩ
2 220Ω
1 10Ω
with the start end or the coil will be
shorted.
Next, wind on 15 turns of 0.8mm
tinned copper wire evenly spaced
around the aluminium foil. This shorts
to the aluminium foil, giving something to solder to (you cannot solder
to aluminium foil).
Solder one end (only) of this tinned
copper wire to one end of the 70-turn
coil underneath. You will need to remove some of the insulation from the
enamelled copper wire.
Fortunately, enamelled copper wire
is normally coated with a heat stripping coating insulation which can be
removed with a hot soldering iron.
Capacitor Codes
Value IEC
EIA
0.22µF 220n
224
0.1µF
100n
104
.001µF 1n
102
100pF
100p
101
68pF 68p 68
1 100kΩ
2 1kΩ
This “earthy” end of the coil connecting to the tinned copper wire
can be terminated to the shield of the
connecting cable. The shielded cable
core attaches to the other end of the
70-turn coil. Insulate the terminations
and the whole coil assembly in with
another layer of insulation tape.
Note that one end of the tinned
copper wire coil you wound does not
connect to anything.
The coil assembly needs to be
mounted onto a wooden baseplate
using silicone sealant. We used some
scrap western red cedar and routed
a channel for the coil to sit into. Alternatively, you could use 3mm MDF
but this would be more likely to suffer
water damage.
We used a plastic dinner plate as a
cover for the coil/baseplate assembly.
The baseplate is made to suit the diamater of the plastic plate – ours was about
170mm. The plate can be obtained from
stores selling plastic dinnerware.
The support stick and handle are
made with broomstick timber (dowel)
Winding The Search Head
1
Wind 70 turns of 0.4mm enamelled
copper wire onto either a 140mm
diameter former or a length of thin
wood or plastic about 215mm long.
Remove the coil from the former and
pull it into a circular shape. Leave about
100mm of wire protruding and cover the
complete coil with a layer of insulation
tape.
2
Cut aluminium foil into strips
20mm wide and wind over insulation tape, overlapping each turn
slightly. Cover the first 20mm or so with
insulation tape to hold it in place. Continue winding the foil on right around the
coil and onto the insulation tape but do
not let the finish of the foil touch the start
of the foil.
and 20mm PVC conduit fittings. The
stick may need to be filed down where
it enters the conduit elbows and for
the saddle clamps if it is the standard 22mm diameter. We painted the
broomstick handle before assembly.
The final 100mm length of handle is
attached at a right angle to the main
stick using a wood screw. Each elbow
is locked to the stick with 6g self tapping screws.
Saddle clamps secure the detector
box to the handle with M3 screws
and nuts.
After the silicone sealant has cured
(for both the search head assembly and
where it holds the speaker onto the PC
board), you can continue the wiring for
the headphone jack socket and attach
this to the side of the case.
Attach the search head to the broom
handlein place and wire the shielded
The search coil assembly viewed from
underneath . . .
3
Wind 15 tight turns of 0.8mm tinned copper wire directly over the
aluminium foil. Solder one end (only) to one of the wires of the inner
coil. Solder these to the shield wire of the shielded cable which goes
to the detector electronics. Connect the inner conductor of the shielded
cable to the other wire protruding from the inner coil. The remaining wire
from the 15 turns is not connected. Cover the whole coil with a layer of
overlapping turns of insulation tape.
4
Secure the coil assembly to the base with
non-acidic silicone sealant. The base can be made
from lightweight timber with
a 150mm diameter groove
routed into it, or can be a 3mm
MDF sheet with the coil glued
to the inside surface. When the
silicone sealant has dried, give
the whole base several coats
of oil-based paint to make it as
weatherproof as possible.
. . . from above showing the handle
mounting brackets . . .
. . . and finally with the “dinner plate”
cover in place.
DECEMBER 1999 43
cable to the PC board via the cord grip grommet in the
case. This cable should be wrapped around the main
stem several times and tied in place with a cable tie.
Note that any movement of the lead will alter the search
head frequency.
Place the pot knobs on and connect the AA battery
pack to the 6V supply terminals on the PC board. (Some
battery holders can be screwed directly to the base of the
case but some will require a bracket to be made).
Apply power – you should be greeted with an audio
tone. If not, adjust the volume control fully clockwise and
adjust the coarse knob until a sound is heard. Extreme
left and right settings of the coarse control should prevent
oscillator operation.
Check the power supply using a multimeter. There
should be 5V between the metal tab of REG1 and the
output. This 5V should also be on pin 14 of IC3. Check
the voltage between pin 14 of IC1 and earth or 0V, and
also pin 14 of IC2 and 0V. These should be just a little
less than 5V.
Adjust the controls until the frequency becomes a very
low growl or stops completely. You will find that there are
several positions on the coarse control where the output
tone reduces to a low frequency but there will be one
position which gives the loudest tone.
Use the dominant tone to begin with, although you may
find another position is better for some types of ground
or metal. Now bring the search head near a metal object
and check that the frequency increases.
Note that the fine control is logarithmic and will give
very fine adjustment at the anticlockwise position and
coarser adjustment toward the clockwise position. This
means that the adjustment of the coarse control should be
done with the fine control past its halfway anticlockwise
position.
When you bring the search head near the ground you
may find that the frequency changes, requiring readjustment of the controls. There is also the possibility that
this adjustment was made in a location where metal was
located and so it is a good idea to sweep the ground and
find a good compromise adjustment.
While the search oscillator has been designed to be
stable in frequency with minimal drift, it will be far more
stable after about a 15-minute warm-up with the power
switched on. Also it will work best if it is given the chance
to stabilise in the environment in which it is to be used.
So do not store it in some cool dungeon and then expect
the search oscillator to be stable when it is brought out
No.
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
Value
1MΩ
150kΩ
100kΩ
10kΩ
4.7kΩ
1kΩ
220Ω
10Ω
44 Silicon Chip
into the midday heat.
The metal locator can be used with headphones that are
high impedance types, as used with hifi systems and personal stereos. These are typically 32 ohms. Using these will
reduce current consumption from the batteries and enable
the locator to be used in noisy environments.
Also the sensitivity to metal detection will appear to be
better due to the closer proximity
of the sound to your ear and the
your ability to concentrate on the
Resistor Codes
sound more effectively.
You can experiment with the
4-Band Code (1%)
5-Band Code (1%)
locator
by burying various items
brown black green brown
brown black green yellow brown
in dirt or sand to learn how the
brown green yellow brown brown green black orange brown
metal locator responds to various
brown black yellow brown brown black black orange brown
items at different depths. Typical
brown black orange brown brown black black red brown
detection depths are 40cm for a tin
can, 10cm for a wedding ring and
yellow violet red brown
yellow violet black brown brown
14cm for a 10 cent coin.
brown black red brown
brown black black brown brown
You are now ready to tackle
red red brown brown
red red black black brown
the beaches and exploration
brown black black brown
brown black black gold brown
SC
goldfields.
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CHIP
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DECEMBER 1999 53
BUILDING THE
Speed Alarm
Last month, we gave the circuit details of
our new compact Speed Alarm. This month,
we show you how to build it and give the
installation details. We also show you how
to fit the speed sensor.
Pt.2: By JOHN CLARKE
Lack of space prevented us from
describing the power supply circuit
for the Speed Alarm last month, so
we’ll give a brief rundown on how this
works before moving on to the construction. You will need to refer back
to Fig.1 on page 19 of the November
issue to see the circuit details.
As shown, a +12V rail is derived
54 Silicon Chip
from the vehicle’s battery via the ignition switch. A 10Ω 1W resistor and
47µF capacitor decouple the supply,
while 16V zener diode ZD1 protects
the circuit from transient voltage
spikes above 16V.
The decoupled ignition supply
voltage is fed to regulator REG1, which
provides a +5V rail. This rail is then
used to power all the circuitry with
the exception of IC2 which is powered
directly from the decoupled +12V rail.
A second 47µF capacitor plus several
0.1µF capacitors are used to decouple
the regulator’s output.
OK, so much for the circuitry. Of
course, most of the clever stuff takes
place inside the PIC16F84 micro
controller under software control. For
a broad overview of how this software
works, take a look at the accompanying panel.
Construction
Fortunately, you don’t have to understand how the software works to
build this project. Instead, you just
buy the ready-programmed PIC chip
and “plug it in”.
As mentioned earlier, all the parts
7-WAY SOCKET
8-WAY SOCKET
BC328
7 x 150
BC328
BC328
2.2k
0.1
D3
D4
47F
TO COIL
(L1)
15pF
680
22k
ZD1
XTAL
1
REG1
7805
# SOLDER
XTAL BODY
TO WIRE
1
680
1
15pF
#
680
500k
2.2k
IC2
LM358
VR1
Q2
0.1
Q3
IC1 PIC16F84
Q1
Q4
BC338
0.1
2.2k
1M
10
1W
+12V VIA
IGNITION
SWITCH
2 x 47F
1k
CHASSIS
7-WAY SOCKET
560
7-WAY PIN HEADER*
8-WAY PIN HEADER*
0.1
LED1
A
K
A
K
LED4
DISPLAY 3
DISPLAY 2
680
A
K
S3
LED3
MODE
680
S2
DOWN
DISPLAY 1
D2
S4
CAL
D1
LDR1
10k
(except for the piezo alarm and the
speed sensor) are installed on two
small PC boards. These are coded
05310991 and 05310992 and are
stacked together using pin headers
and IC sockets.
Before installing any of the parts,
check both boards carefully for etching defects. In particular, note that a
hole is required just below DISPLAY3
on the display board (05310991). This
must be large enough to accept a small
screwdriver so that you can later adjust VR1 on the processor board.
Fig.4 shows the assembly details.
We suggest that you assemble the processor board (05310992) first. Begin by
installing the seven wire links, then
install the resistors, diodes D3 & D4
and zener diode ZD1. Make sure that
all the diodes are oriented correctly
and note that the seven 150Ω resistors
are all mounted end on.
Next solder in a socket for IC1 (but
don’t install the IC just yet), then
solder IC2 in place. Take care to ensure that pin 1 of IC2 is nearest to the
lefthand side of the board.
REG1 can now be installed with its
metal tab flat against the board and
with its leads bent at rightangles so
that they pass through their respective
mounting holes. Note that the hole
in its metal tab must accurately align
with the board mounting hole – see
Fig.4.
Next, install the capacitors in the
locations shown. Watch the orientation of the electrolytic types and note
the following points:
(1) the two 47µF capacitors below
REG1 have their leads bent at right
angles, so that the capacitors lie horizontally over REG1’s leads (see photo);
(2) the 47µF capacitor to the left of D3
& D4 has its leads bent at rightangles,
so that it lies across these two diodes.
The four transistors, crystal X1 and
trimpot VR1 can now be installed. You
680
A
K
LED2
1k
PIEZO
BUZZER
S1
UP
1k
7-WAY PIN HEADER*
* PIN HEADERS MOUNTED ON UNDERSIDE OF PC BOARD
Fig.4: install the parts on the two PC boards as shown here. Note particularly
the orientation of the three pushbutton switches and switch S4. The terminals
of S4 must be oriented as shown.
should also fit PC stakes to the board
at the external wiring points.
Note that transistor Q4 is a BC338
while the others are BC328s, so don’t
get them mixed up. The crystal lies flat
against the PC board and is secured
by soldering a short length of tinned
copper wire between the end of its
case and an adjacent PC pad (to the
right of Q2).
Finally, the single in-line sockets
(two 7-way and one 8-way) can be
fitted. These are made by cutting 14pin and 16-pin IC sockets into single
in-line strips using a sharp knife or
fine-toothed hacksaw. Clean up the
rough edges with a file before installing them on the PC board.
Display board
Now for the display board. Begin by
installing the eight links, diodes D1 &
D2 and the resistors, then mount the
three 7-segment LED displays with
Capacitor Codes
Value
IEC Code EIA Code
0.1µF
100n 104
15pF 15p 15
Resistor Colour Codes
No.
1
1
1
3
3
6
1
1
Value
1MΩ
22kΩ
10kΩ
2.2kΩ
1kΩ
680Ω
560Ω
10Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black green brown
red red orange brown
brown black orange brown
red red red brown
brown black red brown
blue grey brown brown
green blue brown brown
brown black black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black yellow brown
red red black red brown
brown black black red brown
red red black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
blue grey black black brown
green blue black black brown
brown black black gold brown
DECEMBER 1999 55
the pin headers are installed from
the copper side of the board, with
their leads protruding 1mm above
the surface.
You will need a fine tipped soldering iron to solder the pin header leads
to the copper pads on the board. It is
necessary to slide the plastic spacers
along the leads to give sufficient room
for soldering to take place.
Final assembly
The display board (above) plugs into the pin header sockets on the processor
board (top), to make the electrical connections between the two. Note how the
three red LEDs on the display board are bent towards the pushbutton switches,
to illuminate them at night.
their decimal points towards bottom
right. Note that seven of the links go
under the displays, which is why
they’re shown dotted on Fig.4.
Next, install switches S1-S3, taking
care to ensure that the flat side of each
switch faces the direction shown in
Fig.4. Switch S4 must also be oriented correctly – it must be installed so
that there is normally an open circuit
between its lefthand and righthand
leads (you can check this using a
DMM). In practice, it’s simply a matter of installing the switch with its
terminals oriented as shown on Fig.4.
LEDs 2-4 can now be fitted to the
board and bent towards their respec56 Silicon Chip
tive switches (so that they will illuminate the mounting holes for S1-S3),
as shown in one of the photographs.
The tops of these LEDs should be at
the same height as the top faces of
the displays.
The LDR can be installed now.
It should be mounted so that it is
2mm above the displays, while LED1
should be 3mm above the displays. It
doesn’t matter which way around you
install the LDR but make sure that all
the LEDs are oriented correctly.
You can now complete the display
board assembly by fitting PC stakes
to the buzzer wiring points and by
installing the pin headers. Note that
Work can now begin on the plastic case. First, use a sharp chisel to
remove the integral side pillars, then
slide the processor PC board into the
case and drill two mounting holes –
one through REG1’s metal tab and the
other immediately below the 0.1µF
capacitor on the lefthand side. This
done, use an oversize drill to countersink these holes on the rear of the
case, to suit the specified M3 x 6mm
CSK screws.
Next, remove the processor board
from the case and secure it to the display board as shown in Fig.5. Be sure
to use a Nylon screw in the location
indicated on Fig.5, to prevent shorts
between the two boards.
Check that the leads from the parts
on the display board do not interfere
with any of the parts on the processor
board. Trim the leads on the display
board if necessary, to avoid this.
The front panel label can now be
affixed to the panel and used as a template for drilling the various holes and
making the display cutout. The holes
for switches S1-S3 are made slightly
oversize, to take 9.5mm inside diameter translucent rings. These allow the
light from the switch LEDs to form a
semicircular glowing arc around each
switch at night.
We made the translucent rings by
cutting them from the dispenser nozzles supplied with the containers used
in caulking guns. Three nozzles are
required and are cut to make the rings
which are 11.5mm outside diameter
and 2mm thick. Alternatively, you
can use the plastic moulding from a
PAL line socket which has a 12mm
outside diameter and a 10.5mm inside
diameter.
Ream the holes in the front panel
so that the rings are a tight fit. They
can be held in position by applying a
smear of silicone sealant around the
edges before they are inserted into
the holes.
If you don’t wish to use the rings,
The unit all fits neatly inside a
compact plastic case. Note the
cardboard light shield around
the 7-segment LED displays.
then simply make the holes about
10mm in diameter. Some light will
then escape around the switches at
night to indicate their positions.
The display cutout is made by first
drilling a series of small holes around
the inside perimeter, then knocking
out the centre piece and filing to a
smooth shape. The cutout should be
made so that the red transparent Perspex or Acrylic window is a tight fit.
This window can be further secured
by applying several small dabs of super glue along the inside edges.
You will also have to drill holes
for the alarm LED, the LDR and the
piezo alarm, plus a hole to provide
probe access to the calibration switch.
A hole is also required in the rear of
the case to accept a rubber grommet
for the external leads.
Once all the holes have been drilled,
the piezo transducer can be affixed
to the inside of the front panel using
super glue and its leads connected to
the PC stakes on the display board (it
can be connected either way around).
Note that the PC stakes will need to
be trimmed close to the board, so that
they don’t foul the transducer when
the front panel is attached to the case.
Finally, we made a cardboard
2 x 1mm
PLASTIC
SPACERS
6mm
SPACER
M3 x 15mm
SCREW
M3 x 15mm
NYLON SCREW
DISPLAY BOARD
REGULATOR TAB
M3 NUT
PROCESSOR BOARD
6mm TAPPED SPACER
REAR OF CASE
M3 x 6mm CSK SCREW
Fig.5: this diagram shows how the two PC boards are stacked
together. Be sure to use a nylon screw as indicated, to prevent
shorts between the two boards.
surround for the LED displays (see
photo). This prevents the switch LED
lighting from encroach
ing onto the
display window at night. In addition,
you may wish to apply some black
paint to the links running between the
displays, so that they cannot be seen
during daylight hours.
Speed sensor
The speed sensor is made by winding 500 turns of 0.18mm enamelled
copper wire onto a plastic bobbin
measuring 15mm OD x 8mm ID x
5mm. Use electrical tape to secure
the turns and leave 10-20mm of lead
length at each end.
Once the coil has been wound,
solder its leads to a suitable length
of shielded cable (one lead goes to
the core and the other to the shield).
Secure this lead to the side of the coil
with some tape, then cover the coil
with silicone sealant to waterproof
it. We recommend that you use the
non-acid cure silicone sealant (eg, a
roof and gutter sealant).
Finally, cover the coil with a short
length of heatshrink tubing and shrink
it into place using a hot-air gun. The
sealant should now be left to dry for
about eight hours.
Testing
It is best to check the supply rails
before plugging in the PIC micro
DECEMBER 1999 57
How The Software Works
W
E WON’T GO INTO a detailed analysis of
the software here – it’s much too complicated for that. However, it can be broken
down into a number of easy-to-understand
sections, so we can at least give a broad
overview of how the software works with the
aid of a couple of flowcharts.
Basically, there are two separate programs
in the speed alarm software and these are
called MAIN and INTER.
Fig.6(a) shows the flow chart for the MAIN
program. This operates when the processor
is reset when power is first applied. It sets up
the RB0 and RA4 ports as inputs and the RB1RB7 and RA0-RA3 ports as outputs. It then
reads the values stored in memory for the last
speed setting, display mode and calibration
and places these in working memories.
Next, the program looks for a pressed
Mode, Down or Up switch (these are used to
change the speedometer option and repeat
alarm feature, as described previously). If
one of these switches is pressed, it toggles
to the alternative option. The new option is
then written to memory for storage.
The program now calculates a value called
the “speed equivalent”. This is a value based
on the current speed alarm setting. It has a
value of eight per 5km/h. For example, if the
speed alarm value is 10km/h, then the speed
equivalent value is 16. For 60km/h, the speed
equivalent value is 96.
Interrupts
At this point, the program looks for a
switch closure and allows interrupts to occur.
An interrupt causes the system to jump to
a different part of the program whenever it
receives an appropriate (ie, interrupt) signal.
In this case, we are using two interrupts:
(1) an internal signal from a timer which
occurs regularly every 353µs; and (2) an
interrupt at the speed sensor input. As soon
as it receives a signal from either of these
sources, the MAIN program is interrupted and
goes to the INTER program. This flowchart
is shown in Fig.6(b).
The INTER program does a lot of work.
If the interrupt is from the RB0 input (ie,
from the speed sensor), it increments the
pulse counter. In this way, the pulse counter
counts the speed sensor pulses applied to
the RB0 input.
Alternatively, if the interrupt is from the
timer, the program multiplexes the display
so that the next display is lit and the previous
one is switched off. The 7-segment display
58 Silicon Chip
values on the RB1-RB7 outputs are changed
accordingly.
Basically, this updates the display to show
the relevant values, whether in speed alarm,
speedometer or off mode. In addition, if the
value in the display is below 10km/h, the two
lefthand digits are blanked, so that only the
righthand digit is shown. Similarly, for speeds
below 100, the lefthand digit is blanked and
the two righthand digits show the speed.
An interrupt from the timer also increases the time period counter. This counter is
incremented every 353µs and its value is
compared with the calibration number value
(assuming that the circuit isn’t in calibration
mode). The pulse counter is then reset when
the time period counter equals the calibration
number.
The value in the pulse counter just before
it is reset indicates the speed. This value
is used for the speedometer mode and for
comparing the vehicle speed against the
alarm speed setting.
What happens is that the speed equivalent
value is compared with the pulse count just
before reset. If the pulse counter value is
equal to or greater than the speed equivalent
value, it triggers the alarm output.
As described previously, the speed alarm
will remain on until the pulse count value
drops below the speed equivalent. However,
if we were to simply switch off the alarm as
soon as the pulse count value was just below
the speed equivalent value, we could have a
situation whereby the alarm continuously
turns on and off as the vehicle travels at the
alarm set speed.
To counteract this, we add two to the
pulse count value and then compare this to
the speed equivalent. When this new pulse
count value is less than the speed equivalent,
the alarm goes off. This provides us with a
speed hysteresis of 1.25km/h, whereby the
vehicle speed must drop this much below the
set alarm speed before the alarm switches
off. This provides us with the low threshold
setting.
Alternatively, the high threshold setting
adds two to the speed equivalent value so
that the alarm will sound when the speed is
1.25km/h above the alarm set speed. The
alarm then turns off when the vehicle’s speed
drops back to the alarm set speed.
Calibration
Let’s now backtrack to the Calibration
Mode decision box in the middle of Fig.6(b).
If the answer here is ‘Yes’, we allow the pulse
counter to continue counting speed pulses
and compare its value with the speed equivalent value. Meanwhile, the time period counter
is incrementing every 353µs. When the pulse
counter equals the speed equivalent value,
we read the value in the time period counter
and use this as the new calibration number.
Note that the calibration process does
not change the number of speed pulses per
km/h counted in the pulse counter, as this is
fixed at 8 per 5km/h. Instead, the calibration
process sets the time period over which the
pulse counter counts the speed pulses.
Switch closures
Returning now to the MAIN program, after
allowing for the interrupts, the program looks
for a switch closure. If there are no switch
closures, the program continues looking until
a switch is closed.
It then detects which switch was closed
and acts accordingly. If it is the Cal switch,
it clears both the pulse and period counters
and sets flags so that the interrupt program
will know that it is in the calibration mode.
The display is also set to show “CAL”.
When the calibration is finished, the
display may sometimes show “Err”. This
means that the time period counter has
overranged before the pulse counter value
reached the speed equivalent value. This
error message indicates that the calibration
was unsuccessful.
Alternatively, if calibration is successful,
the display will return to the speed alarm
setting and the new calibration number will
be stored in the onboard EEPROM. This
calibration value can be anywhere from 1 to
65,536 although in practice, it will usually be
somewhere in the range from 1200 to 6500.
This corresponds to speed update times of
0.4 seconds and 2 seconds, respectively.
If, on the other hand, the mode switch is
pressed, the display will be toggled to the
next mode of operation which is then stored
in memory. And if the up or down switch is
pressed, the speed alarm value will be either
increased or decreased accordingly, stored
in memory and a new speed equivalent value
calculated.
Note that there are many more details concerning the software operation that we haven’t
mentioned here. Readers who are interested
in all the programming details can obtain a
full copy of the software (called SPEED.ASM)
from our website (www.siliconchip.com.au).
MAIN PROGRAM
FLOWCHART
MAIN
INTER PROGRAM
FLOWCHART
INTER
INITIALISE PORTS
RA4, RB0 INPUT
RB0 INTERRUPT INPUT
RA0-RA3, RB1-RB7 OUTPUT
INTERRUPT
SOURCE?
RB0
INCREMENT
PULSE COUNTER
TRANSFER
EEPROM STORAGE
TO WORKING
RAM
TIMER
SHOW CURRENT MODE
DISPLAY SPEED ALARM,
SPEEDOMETER OR OFF
LEADING ZERO BLANKING
MODE
SET
SPEEDOMETER
ON OR OFF
STORE IN
EEPROM
IS MODE
OR UP SWITCH
PRESSED?
NO
RETURN
UP
INCREMENT TIME
PERIOD COUNTER
SET
REPEAT ALARM
ON OR OFF
STORE IN
EEPROM
YES
CALIBRATION
MODE
NO
CALCULATE
SPEED EQUIVALENT
OF 8 PER 5km/h
COMPARE
PULSE COUNTER
WITH SPEED
EQUIVALENT
ALLOW INTERRUPTS
NOT EQUAL
SET END OF
CALIBRATION
FLAG
NO
IS
A SWITCH
CLOSED
RETURN
COMPARE
CALIBRATION
VALUE WITH
TIME PERIOD
COUNTER
EQUAL
PULSE
COUNT
USED FOR
SPEEDOMETER
RETURN
YES
EQUAL
OR MORE
CAL
WHICH
SWITCH
ON
UP OR DOWN
LESS
ALARM
CLEAR PULSE COUNTER
& PERIOD COUNTER
SET CALIBRATION MODE
WAIT UNTIL
CALIBRATION FINISHED
STORE TIME
PERIOD COUNTER
VALUE AS
CALIBRATION VALUE
MODE
SELECT NEXT
DISPLAY MODE:
SPEED ALARM
SPEEDOMETER
OR OFF
RECALCULATE
SPEED EQUIVALENT
VALUE
OFF
RETURN
LESS
INCREASE OR
DECREASE
SPEED ALARM
VALUE
COMPARE
PULSE COUNT
WITH SPEED
EQUIVALENT
ADD 2
TO PULSE
COUNTER COMPARE
WITH SPEED
EQUIVALENT
EQUAL
OR MORE
RETURN
STORE NEW
VALUES IN
EEPROM
WAIT FOR
SWITCH TO
OPEN
Fig.6a (left) shows the flowchart for the MAIN program,
while Fig.6b (above) is the flowchart for the INTER
(interrupt) software. The INTER software processes the
multiplexing of the displays, the timer update function
and the speed pulses.
DECEMBER 1999 59
Fig.7: here are the full-size artworks for the two PC boards. Check your
boards carefully before installing any of the parts.
controller (IC1). To do this, first connect suitable lengths of automotive
hookup wire to the +12V and GND
(chassis) inputs on the back of the
processor board and apply power.
Now use your multimeter to check
for +5V on pins 4 & 14 of IC1’s socket.
If this is correct, disconnect the
power and install IC1, taking care to
ensure that it is oriented correctly. Now
reapply power – the display should
light and should show 60km/h. Check
that this value can be increased and
decreased using the Up and Down
switches.
Now press the Mode switch. The
display should show 0 and if you press
the switch again, it should show three
dashes. Now press the Mode switch
yet again and set the display to 0 using
the Down switch. The alarm should
sound and the alarm LED should light
after about 1.6 seconds.
The alarm should now sound every
10 seconds if the display is left on 0.
Note that if you select the high threshold by pressing the Down switch at
power up, the alarm will not sound
at the “0” speed setting.
Assuming that everything works
OK, you can now test the display
dimming feature by placing your finger over the LDR and adjusting VR1
until the display dims.
If you have a sinewave generator,
there are a few more tests that can be
carried out. The generator should be
60 Silicon Chip
set to provide a 300mV RMS sinewave
output and this output should be floating rather than having the common
grounded. Alternatively, the power
supply should be floating.
Attach the signal generator to the
coil input terminals on the speed
alarm and set the mode to speedometer. The reading should be close to
100km/h per 100Hz input. You can
also test the calibration operation by
pressing the Cal switch when in the
speed alarm display mode (it will not
work in the speedometer mode).
Installation
Be sure to use automotive cable
and connectors when installing the
unit into a vehicle. The +12V supply
is derived via the ignition switch and
MAGNETS (4)
ALUMINUIM
BRACKET
(ATTACH TO
CHASSIS)
6mm
BOLT
& NUT
DRIVESHAFT
COIL
CABLE TIE
10mm
MAXIMUM
GAP
Fig.9: the mounting details for the
speed sensor. You will probably
require 4-6 magnets to obtain a
satisfactory update time – see text.
Fig.8: the full size front panel
artwork.
a suitable connection can usually be
made at the fusebox. Be sure to choose
the fused side of the supply rail, so that
the existing fuse is in series.
The ground connection can be made
by connecting the lead to the chassis
via a solder eyelet and a self-tapping
screw.
Fig.9 shows the mounting details
for the speed sensor. As can be seen,
the magnets are attached to the driveshaft, while the pickup coil is bolted
to an aluminium bracket attached to
the chassis. The sensor is then connected to its inputs on the back of
the processor board via the attached
shielded cable, after which the PC
board assembly can be finally installed
in the case.
Note that the magnets must all be
installed with the same polarity facing
outwards (ie, the magnets must all
have their north pole facing outwards,
or they must all have their south pole
facing outwards). This can be checked
by attaching the magnets together in a
stack. This will either give a N-S-N-S,
etc stack or a S-N-S-N, etc stack (it
doesn’t matter which).
The trick is to mark the outside
face of the top magnet and remove
it from the stack. You then mark the
outside face of the next magnet and
so on, until all the magnets have been
marked and removed. The magnets are
then all positioned on the shaft with
the marked sides facing outwards and
If the small internal buzzer isn’t loud enough, you can substitute an external
buzzer similar to the units shown here.
is operating in the alarm speed mode.
In addition, if there are insufficient
pulses from the speed sensor (ie, if
the speed is too low), the display will
show “Err” to indicate that calibration
could not be achieved.
By the way, do not attempt to carry
out the calibration procedure on your
own – it’s all too easy to have an accident if you are distracted. Instead,
take an assistant with you and instruct
him/her to press the Cal button when
the car is travelling at the set alarm
speed.
Check that the speed alarm operates
correctly after the calibration procedure. If it does, you can now check
the update time. To do this, set the
alarm speed to a value that’s below
the current vehicle speed, then press
the Down switch again. The time it
now takes for the alarm to sound (ie,
after pressing the switch) is the update
time and should be in the range from
0.4 to 2 seconds.
If it is much longer than this, you
can improve the update time by increasing the number of magnets on
the driveshaft. Doubling the number
of magnets will half the update time,
for example. Conversely, if the update
time is much shorter that 0.4 seconds,
you can increase it by removing
magnets.
When the Speed Alarm is operating
satisfactorily, you can secure the magnets to the drive shaft with silicone
sealant. This will prevent them from
sliding out from under the cable tie.
Assuming that everything is working correctly, you can now give the
unit a final calibration at 100km/h
(speed limits permitting). This will
give a more accurate result than the
initial low-speed calibration.
Speedometer comparisons
The speed sensor coil must be waterproofed before mounting it under the
vehicle – see text.
temporarily secured with a long cable
tie (or several short cable ties joined
together).
Calibration
As mentioned before, the unit is
virtually (but not completely) self-calibrating.
The first step is to set the Speed
Alarm to a speed within the current
speed limit (eg, 60km/h). You then
drive at that speed as indicated on
your car’s speedometer and briefly
press the Cal button using a small
probe. The Speed Alarm will then
automatically calibrate itself so that
it matches the vehicle’s speedometer
reading.
During the calibration period,
which should be around 0.4-2 seconds, the display shows the letters
“CAL”, after which the display reverts
to its normal mode. Note that calibration can only take place when the unit
By the way, you may notice that
your vehicle’s speedometer is not very
linear compared with the very linear
speedometer of the Speed Alarm
(within ±1 digit on the display). On
the other hand, don’t expect the Speed
Alarm to indicate speeds much below
15km/h. This is because the magnets
need to rotate at a reasonably fast rate
before they induce voltage pulses of
sufficient amplitude in the pickup
coil for reliable processing by the
following circuitry.
Finally, if you want to measure very
low speeds, use a small magnet-to-coil
gap or try using stronger magnets. SC
DECEMBER 1999 61
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au
Sharing an
Internet connection
using an IP Gateway
Want to share a single modem between several
users for Internet access? You can either use a
software proxy server to do the job or you can
take the hardware route and use an IP gateway.
Here’s a look at what IP gateways are, what they
do and how they’re set up.
By GREG SWAIN
M
ANY SMALL OFFICE networks
use a single dedicated line to
connect to the Internet for email and
web browsing. This works fine as long
as only one person (ie, the person with
the modem) requires access but how
do you share a single modem between
all users on a network, so that they can
connect individually (or simultane
ously) as required?
Perhaps the easiest answer for Windows 98 users is to obtain the latest
version of this popular operating
system, known as Windows 98 SE
(second edition). Another approach is
to use a software proxy server such as
WinGate, as described in the Octob
er 1999 issue. Basically, WinGate is
installed on the PC with the modem
64 Silicon Chip
which then acts as a “proxy” for the
client machines on the network.
With WinGate installed, each client
machine behaves as if it had its own
modem. When a user wants access,
the proxy automatically initiates a
dial-up session.
As a bonus, WinGate also functions
as a DHCP server and acts as basic
firewall for the clients. DHCP stands
for “Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol” and allows the WinGate server
to automatically hand out unique addresses to client computers on a TCP/
IP network as they boot up.
OK, let’s just back up a little bit
and explain the jargon. TCP/IP is an
acronym for “Transmission Control
Protocol/Internet Protocol” and is the
language of the Internet. It’s also used
on many local area networks (LANs),
both large and small.
Each machine on a TCP/IP network
is given a unique IP address consisting
of four groups of numbers (between 1
and 255) separated by full points (eg,
192.168.1.10).
A DHCP server saves the network
administrator from having to manually assign an IP address to each
machine on the network – something
that can quickly become unwieldy
when there are more than about 10
machines involved.
IP gateway
An alternative to proxy server software is the “IP gateway” (also called
an “Internet access server”). This
device can be thought of as a box that
provides Internet access to multiple
users on a network. Basically, all users
connect via a common access point
or “gate”.
An IP gateway offers similar functions to a proxy server and has a few
extra features of its own. It’s also a
snack to set up and get going – you
just plug it in, tweak a few software
settings to configure it and it works.
The two devices featured here are
from MicroGram Computers and are
fairly typical of the IP gateways that
are now available. The larger of the
two is called a “Dual Speed Gateway
Hub” while the smaller unit is called
a “Dual Port IP Gateway”.
Despite their size disparity, the two
units are really quite similar. Both
function as IP gateways, as DHCP servers and as firewalls (to prevent “hackers” on the Internet from accessing
your private LAN). They simply plug
into the network and provide users
with simultaneous Internet access via
one or (optionally) two modem ports.
In addition, the larger of the two
units rolls an 8-port 10/100Mb dual-speed hub into the package. This
means that if you are setting up an
office network from scratch, you don’t
have to purchase a separate hub.
By contrast, the Dual Port IP Gateway plugs into an existing ethernet
network, either via a BNC connector
or via an RJ-45 (UTP) connector. Indicator LEDs on the front panels of
the two units indicate modem and
network connections and port activity.
In operation, the IP gateway runs
in the background and is completely
unobtrusive. When a client computer
requires Internet access, the gateway
automatically dials out and makes
the connection. Alternatively, if the
connection is already open, the dial-up process is bypassed and new
clients have immediate access (the IP
gateways also works with ISDN and
leased line connections, by the way).
Note that, unlike a software proxy
server, no dial-up monitor appears on
the screen when you initiate a dial-up
session. This means that there is no
way for the user to force a disconnection at the end of a session, even if no
other users on the network are using
Internet resources. Instead, the IP
gateway automatically disconnects at
the end of the idle period, as specified
during the setup procedure.
Fig.3: the TCP/IP networking protocol
must be installed for the IP gateway
to work. This shows the entry for an
SMC network adapter.
Fig.4: select the “Obtain an IP address
automatically” option here if you
intend using DHCP. Alternatively, you
can assign static IP addresses
Fig.5: if you don’t intend using DHCP,
you should enter a static IP address
for the IP gateway as shown here. Just
type in the address and click “Add”.
Phone Line
Dual-Speed Gateway Hub
Phone Line
Client PC
Modem 1
Modem 2
Client PC
Client PC
Fig.1: the Dual Speed Gateway Hub combines an IP gateway, a DHCP server
and an 8-port fast network hub into one unit. Two modems can be connected,
the second dialling out automatically as traffic requirements dictate.
Dual Port
IP Gateway
Existing Hub
Phone Line
Phone Line
Client PC
Modem 1
Modem 2
Client PC
Client PC
Fig.2: the Dual Port IP Gateway can also handle two modems but doesn’t
include a hub. It is connected to an existing network as shown here.
DHCP server
As with software proxies, these IP
gateways can also function as DHCP
servers. And although they might not
be as versatile as a software-based
DECEMBER 1999 65
Fig.6: you load the Web Management
utility by entering 192.168.1.1 in your
web browser and typing “admin” in
the password dialog box.
Fig.7: this is the OnePage Setup
screen. You have to enter in the
details for your ISP plus your user
ID and password.
Fig.8: the Intranet Setting (IP Setting
tab) lets you enable/disable the DHCP
service, specify a starting address and
specify the number of users.
Fig.9: this dialog lets you block
Internet access for up to five clients
and/or block access to certain Internet
services.
Fig.10: the Virtual Servers dialog lets
you redirect external Internet users to
internal network functions (eg, to FTP
and SMTP servers, as shown here).
Fig.11: the basic Modem setup lets you
choose the line type (dial-up, ISDN or
leased line) and ISP authentication
setting. A login script can also be used.
DHCP server, they do have two advantages: (1) they are simple to setup;
and (2) you only have to leave the IP
gateway itself powered up to keep the
DHCP service operating.
By contrast, a PC that’s running
a DHCP service must be kept on all
the time, otherwise the network goes
down (unless there’s a backup DHCP
server running).
That said, there’s probably no good
reason to run a DHCP service on a
small network – unless you really
don’t want to manually assign IP addresses. A common approach is to use
both manually-assigned IP addresses
and DHCP. The administrator assigns
fixed IP addresses to those computers
that are permanently connected but
uses DHCP to hand out addresses to
any new machines that subsequently
join the network or are often moved
from one location to another.
To do this, the administrator has to
assign fixed IP addresses within a certain range and then exclude these addresses from the DHCP “scope”; ie, the
range of addresses that can be handed
out by the DHCP service. For example, the administrator could hand
out IP addresses in the range from
192.168.1.2 to 192.168.1.99 and con
figure the DHCP service to hand out
addresses starting at 192.168.1.100.
Note that addresses ranging from
192.168.0.0 to 192.168.255.255 are
for use on private LANs and cannot
normally be accessed via the Internet.
and have the second modem automatically dial out to provide extra
bandwidth during high traffic periods.
The second modem then automatically disconnects when the traffic
congestion eases.
Alternatively, the second modem
can be configured to provide dial-in
access only. This allows a user at a
remote location to dial in and access
network resources without affecting
Internet access via modem 1.
Two modem ports
Fig.12: the Advanced modem tab lets
you adjust the modem settings and set
the disconnect “idle” period.
66 Silicon Chip
One interesting feature of these
two units is that they both have two
modem ports. Why two? The answer
is that you can connect two modems
Connecting the hardware
If you’re setting up a network from
scratch, the Dual Speed Gateway Hub
is probably the way to go. Fig.1 shows
a typical installation. Each PC is fitted
with a network interface card (NIC)
and is connected to a port on the hub
via a Cat.5 cable.
The eight ports on the hub are
auto-negotiating which means that
they run at either 10Mb/s or 100Mb/s,
depending on your network cards. The
eighth port can also be switched to uplink mode (via an adjacent switch), so
that additional hubs can be cascaded
as the network grows.
By the way, hubs are cascaded by
connecting the uplink port on one hub
to a normal port on the second hub
and so on. Hubs that don’t have uplink
ports are cascaded by connecting two
of their regular ports together via a
crossover cable.
Installing TCP/IP
After connecting the hardware,
the next step is to install the TCP/
IP networking protocol on the client
machines. If you’re using Windows
95/98, double-click the Network icon
in Control Panel to bring up the dialog
box shown in Fig.3. If you don’t see a
TCP/IP entry for the network adapter,
click “Add” double-click “Protocol”,
click “Microsoft”, select “TCP/IP”
from the list of network protocols and
click OK.
Follow the on-screen prompts to
complete the installation, then go back
to the Network dialog box. You should
now see a TCP/IP entry for your network adapter (Fig.3 shows the entry
for an SMC EZ Card). Double-click this
entry to bring up the TCP/IP Properties dialog box, click the IP Address
tab and, assuming that you wish to use
the DHCP service provided by the IP
gateway, select “Obtain an IP address
automatically” (Fig.4).
And that’s all you have to do to get
a working TCP/IP network, since the
DHCP service on the IP gateway is
enabled by default. You can ignore the
Gateway and DNS settings, since the
system configures these automatically.
Alternatively, if you are using another DHCP service, you will have to
specify the IP address for the gateway
yourself. You do that by clicking the
Gateway tab, entering the address
192.168.1.1 in the space provided and
clicking “Add” – see Fig.5. This is
the default address for the IP gateway
and must not conflict with any other
assigned IP address on the network.
You will also have to manually
assign the gateway address if you
don’t intend to run a DHCP service.
In addition, you will have to assign a
unique IP address to each machine on
the network but note that they must all
use a Subnet Mask of 255.255.255.0.
Configuring the gateway
There are four ways to configure the
IP gateway: (1) via a web browser (Web
Management); (2) via the bundled
GateKeeper software; (3) via a terminal
program (eg, HyperTerminal); and (4)
via Telnet. Most people will use Web
Management since you don’t have to
This view shows the rear panel of the Dual Speed Gateway Hub. The switch
next to UTP port 8 allows this port to be switched to uplink mode, while the
switch next to the modem 2 port can be used to select configuration mode. This
last setting is used only for configuring the gateway via a terminal program.
install any software, although you do
get a cleaner interface and a couple of
extra options using GateKeeper.
Basically, you need to configure
the gateway with all the information
it requires to connect and log in to
your ISP. However, there are lots of
other options that can be configured,
including restricting access to certain
services and restricting all access by
certain users.
The Web Management utility is
started by launching your web browser and typing 192.168.1.1 (ie, the
gateway IP address) in the address
window. When you press “Enter”,
the Network Password dialog window
will open (see Fig.6). By default, you
can leave the User Name field blank
and fill in the password “admin”
before clicking OK to enter Web
Management.
Fig.7 shows the opening “OnePage
Setup” dialog box. This page has
all the settings that most users will
need. The Modem 1 dial-out setting
is enabled by default and you have to
choose the ISP Name (in most cases,
“Standard PPP”) and enter the ISP’s
phone number, the DNS IP address,
and your user ID and password. This
information is all provided by your
ISP.
The Gateway IP Address and Subnet Mask are set to 192.168.1.1 and
255.255.255.0 by default but you
can change these if necessary. You
can also open and configure a number of other dialog boxes under the
Advanced menu. For example, the
Intranet Setting dialog box has three
tabs labelled “IP Setting”, “Filter” and
“Virtual Server”.
The first tab lets you enable or disable the DHCP service. You can also
specify the starting IP address for the
DHCP service (192.168.1.100 is the
default) and the maximum number
of users. However, there’s no way of
specifying the “lease” period (ie the
period for which an individual PC
is assigned an IP address), which is
apparently preset to six days.
Assuming that you stick to the
defaults, this means that the first address handed out by the DHCP service
will be 192.168.1.100, the second
191.168.1.101, the third 192.168.1.102
and so on up to 192.168.1.149.
Clicking the Filter tab brings up the
dialog box shown in Fig.9. Here, you
can prevent certain users from accessing the Internet via the gateway and/
or prevent access to certain services.
Up to five users can be locked out
but in Fig.9, only the machine on
192.168.1.10 has been blocked from
Internet access.
Note that the machines to be excluded should be assigned static IP
addresses for this to work correctly.
They should not be part of the DHCP
The Dual Port
IP Gateway has
both RJ-45 and
BNC sockets for
connecting to a
network.
DECEMBER 1999 67
Using The Alternative GateKeeper Software
Fig.13: to use an IP gateway, all
Internet applications must be set to
connect via a LAN instead of via a
modem. This is the setting for IE4.
Fig.14: this is the connection setup for
Outlook Express.
service, since individual machines
can be assigned a different IP address
if their “lease” period on a previous
address expires.
The Filtered Private Ports entry lets
you disable up to five Internet services
by specifying their port numbers. As
an example, entering 80 and 21 in
the Port 1 and Port 2 windows will
disable web browsing and FTP access,
respectively. You might do this if you
want to restrict users on the network
to email access only and prevent them
from web browsing or tying up the
system while they download large
files from FTP sites.
Note that the port numbers given
above are default values. The port
number for your web service in particular will be different if you use a
proxy server at your ISP.
68 Silicon Chip
The alternative Gate
Keeper software supplied with these units
duplicates the functions
of the Web Management
utility but has a cleaner
interface and includes
a couple of additional
options (eg, there’s a firmware upgrade option, for
updating the IP gateways
with the latest code).
The software is supplied on floppy disk and is
installed by double-clicking the setup.exe file.
The GateKeeper utility
is then launched via the
Windows Start menu in
Fig.15: the OnePage setup dialog from GateKeeper.
the usual manner.
Fig.10 shows the dialog box that
pops up when you click the Virtual
Server tab. Normally, external Internet users cannot access your network
because the IP gateway functions as
a firewall. The Virtual Server dialog
box lets you bypass this firewall to
give external users access to selected
services on your network; eg, an FTP
server, a web server or a mail server.
Note that, for this to work, you
must have a fixed IP address which
is allocated by your ISP (yes, it costs
money).
The Modem 1 and Modem 2 dialog
boxes are pretty much self-explanatory. When you click on these, you will
find that the settings are already there
since these are part of the OnePage
Setup – see Fig.11. You can also set
up a logon script if that is required
by your ISP.
The Advanced tab lets you choose
the modem type and the idle disconnect period (Fig.12). It also lets you
specify whether to enable or disable
a second modem and the traffic level
at which the second modem automatically dials out. There’s also a dial-in
dialog for Modem 2 that lets you specify a user ID and password for up to
three users and enable or disable the
callback function.
The last two buttons in the Advanced menu are labelled “Device
Admin.” and “Status Monitor”. The
“Device Admin.” dialog box lets you
reset the device, revert to the factory
defaults and change the password,
while the “Status Monitor” shows a
list of client computers on the network
that have been given IP addresses by
the DHCP service.
Configuring your browser
There’s no great magic involved in
configuring your web browser or any
other Internet application to work
with an IP gateway. Basically, you set
up your web browser in exactly the
same manner as for a direct dial-up
connection but with one important
difference – you must configure it to
connect via the LAN instead of via
a modem. Fig.13 shows the setting
for Internet Explorer 4 while Fig.14
shows the setting for Outlook Express.
Apart from that, everything works
as normal as far as each user is concerned. In short, these devices are fast
to set up and provide a hassle-free way
to configure a network and share an
Internet connection.
Where to buy them
The Dual Speed IP Gateway Hub
(Cat. 10108) and the Dual Port IP Gateway (Cat. 10112) are available from
MicroGram Computers and retail for
$699 and $449 respectively (including
sales tax). You can contact MicroGram
Computers at Unit 1, 14 Bon Mace
Close, Berkeley Vale, NSW 2261.
Phone (02) 4389 8444; fax (02) 4389
8388; web site www.mgram.com.au;
SC
email sales<at>mgram.com.au
NOW:
PAY-BY-THE-MINUTE
Internet access
Why pay
for
HOU
when you RS
only n
MINUTES? eed
4 STILL with no download limits! ❏
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❏
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4 STILL with no fine print or hidden extras to pay for!
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BUT NOW WITH JUST ONE LOW-COST PLAN. YOU PAY JUST 2.7c PER MINUTE!
(YOU SIMPLY CHOOSE YOUR INITIAL PERIOD, 1 MONTH OR 3, $10 PER MONTH MINIMUM CHARGE WITH 5 FREE HOURS PER MONTH APPLIES)
Yes! SILICON CHIP’s famous Internet Service is now EVEN BETTER value. From December 1, all new and renewing Internet
Service Subscribers can take advantage of our simpler, single rate! It’s time to get connected with SILICON CHIP!
IT'S AS EASY AS A-B-C TO GET CONNECTED!
(a) Fill in this form and either post it or fax it to SILICON CHIP – (02) 9979 6503; or
(b) Call SILICON CHIP on (02) 9979 5644; 9am-4pm Mon-Fri and we'll guide you through it! (We’ll even call you back to save your phone bill!)
(c) WE WILL THEN FAX YOU OR POST YOU your password
and EASY setup details.
Date of Application: ________________
YOUR DETAILS
Name ___________________________ Company Name (if applicable) ____________________ ACN: ________
Address _________________________________________________________________ Postcode ________
Postal address (if different to above) _________________________________________ Postcode ________
Phone No. (
) ______________________________Fax No. (
)_______________________________
Current email address (if applicable): ________________________ Signature:__________________________
Your PC Operating System:
❏ Windows NT ❏ Windows 95/98 ❏ Windows 3.1 ❏ Mac ❏ Linux
SERVICE TYPE One month minimum. If you prepay for three months you avoid paying the setup fee of $10.00
❏ One Month ($10.00 + $10.00 SETUP FEE)
Three Months (NO SETUP FEE): $30.00
(5 hours included then 2.7 cents per minute)
(15 hours included then 2.7 cents per minute)
Note: charges are made on a calendar month basis. When do you wish to start: straight away beginning of next month
Choose your email address (user name of 2-8 letters), eg, yourname<at>silchip.com.au
First Choice:__________________Second Choice:___________________Third Choice:___________________
Choose your Dial-In Location (also known as POP - Point of Presence) from this list:
❏ Sydney (inc outer metro) ❏ Newcastle ❏ Wollongong ❏ Gosford, Windsor, Wiseman's Ferry ❏ Penrith, Mulgoa, Camden ❏ Campbelltown
❏ Melbourne (inc outer metro) ❏ Geelong ❏ Ballarat ❏ Bendigo ❏ Shepparton ❏ Cranbourne, Mornington ❏ Healesville, Emerald, Pakenham
❏ Gisborne, Romsey, Kilmore, Kinglake ❏ Lara, Balliang, Bacchus Marsh ❏ Canberra ❏ Adelaide ❏ Perth ❏ Hobart
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(Note: Some locations within these areas may be community or STD calls. Please check with your telephone service provider if in any doubt)
Initial charges (Credit card charged ONLY after password & setup information have been forwarded):
Monthly/3-monthly plan charge: $________ Plus setup fee: $10.00 (if applicable) $ _______ = Total: $ __________
PAYMENT DETAILS: CREDIT CARD ONLY!
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Modifying the circuit for a hard-wired
“walk-around” throttle.
PART 3: By JOHN CLARKE & LEO SIMPSON
BUILD THE
RAILPOWER
As promised in part 2, here is the
walk-around throttle version of the
Railpower speed control for model
railways. It uses four switches to
control speed, forward/reverse, inertia
and braking.
W
ELL, WHAT IS a walkaround throttle control any
way? It is a little hand-held
control that you can plug in on several
places on your layout. It means that
you don’t have to be tied down to one
place on your layout.
70 Silicon Chip
For example, for shunting manoeuvres you might want to be very close
to the locomotive as you marshall up a
train. At other times, you might want
to be close to the straight, so you can
see your train barreling down towards
you. Or perhaps you have a turntable
and you want to watch the locomotive
closely as it comes on and off.
Whatever the reason, you want to
be able to plug the hand control into
one of a number of sockets around the
layout to closely observe and control
your trains.
You want to be able to plug it in,
set the train speed and direction and
then unplug, go to the new location
and plug in again, all without the
locomotive faltering in any way – it
should just maintain the settings, as
if you had not touched the controls.
Of course, you have most of the
advantages of a walk-around throttle
with the infrared remote control version published in the previous two
chapters.
But perhaps there are parts of your
layout which will not let you use
the IR remote control – perhaps they
don’t have a line-of-sight back to the
control unit.
Possibly, you don’t want the remote control version because it uses
batteries and yes, the AAA-cells will
need to be replaced from time to time.
OK, so you want the walk-around
throttle; here it is.
It consists of a small plastic case
with three toggle switches and a pushbutton. Note that there is no provision
for the auxiliary switching although
that could be done if need be. We
leave those details to you.
Of the three toggle switches, two
are spring-loaded 3-position types
with the centre-position being OFF
(ie, centre-OFF). These are used as
the up/down speed control and the
Direction control (forward/reverse).
The Speed switch is pushed to the
right to make the speed increase (UP);
push it the other way and the speed
setting decreases (DOWN).
The Direction switch is used in the
same way: push it to the right to select
Forward operation and to the left to
select Reverse.
Mind you, the Lockout feature of
the circuit still works so that the locomotive must be virtually stopped
before you can change the direction
of operation.
The remaining toggle switch is the
inertia ON/OFF control.
The pushbutton is a momentary
push-on type. Pressing it once brings
the STOP function into play. Pressing it again will release the STOP
function and allow the locomotive
to resume its previous speed setting.
Alternatively, pushing the speed
Inside the modified Railpower. The infrared receiver components have been
replaced by a hard-wired connection terminated in an 8-pin DIN plug on the
rear panel. The modification is quite simple.
switch UP or DOWN will achieve the
same result.
The hand-held control is wired via
a length of 8-way cable to an 8-pin
DIN plug.
Inside the Railpower itself, IC1,
IC2, Q1, three resistors and a capacitor are omitted and a 14-pin socket is
installed in place of IC2, to allow the
circuit connections from the handheld control to be made via a 14-pin
header plug.
The circuit of the walk-around control is shown in Fig.1. What we have
done is to reproduce the top lefthand
corner of the of the Railpower circuit
which previously involved IC1, the
infrared receiver and IC2, the 8-channel decoder.
Eight control lines run away from
IC2 in the original Railpower circuit
and we now control six of those lines
(omitting the two for the Auxiliary
outputs) via the hand-held control
and the 14-pin socket. The circuit
also involves the +5V rail at pin 14
and the 0V line at pin 1.
The forward/reverse switch, S1,
operates by pulling pin 3 or pin 8
A close-up view of the modified section of the PC board
with the header connector shown in detail above.
DECEMBER 1999 71
Parts List
1 plastic case 83 x 54 x 31mm
1 label, 80 x 50mm (see Fig.5)
2 centre-off spring return momentary SPDT toggle switches (S1,S4)
1 SPDT toggle switch (S3)
1 miniature pushbutton switch
(S2)
1 8-pin DIN line plug
1 8-pin DIN panel socket
1 1.5m length of Cat 5 8-way
stranded cable (cut to
1100mm and 400mm)
1 150mm length of 0.8mm tinned
copper wire
1 small cord grip grommet
4 10kΩ 0.25W 1% resistors
1 22µF 16VW PC electrolytic
capacitor
1 14-pin IDC header plug
1 14-pin IC socket
2 M3 screws and nuts
pin high (ie, to +5V) when selected.
The lines from these pins drive the
bases of transistors Q10 or Q11, respectively.
Pushbutton STOP switch S2 operates by pulling pin 7 high. When S2
is released, the 10kΩ resistor pulls
pin 7 low again. The 22µF capacitor
provides debouncing for the switch
contacts.
The inertia switch S3 pulls pin 9
high when it is set to OFF. When S3
is set to ON, pin 9 is pulled low via
the associated 10kΩ resistor.
Finally, Speed switch S4 operates
by pulling either pin 5 or pin 6 high
(+5V) for speed DOWN or
speed UP. When released,
the switch springs back
to its centre-OFF position
and the two 10kΩ resistors
pull pins 5 & 6 low.
Fig.1: compare this modified section of the circuit with
the infrared circuit shown last month.
Fig.5) as a template for drilling the
holes. When the holes are drilled,
attach the label to the lid and cut the
holes out with a sharp utility knife. Fit
the switches and then you are ready
to start wiring.
The wiring details for the handheld
control and lead to the 8-pin DIN plug
are shown in Fig.2.
We used Cat 5 8-way stranded cable
to wire up the switches. It consists
of four twisted pairs. Pass one end
of the 8-way cable through the hole
prepared for the cordgrip grommet
and strip back the outer plastic sheath
by about 50mm before wiring to the
switches. We used the colours as
shown and note that there will be
one wire spare (orange/white). You
will need a common connection to
the centre terminal of S1, S4 & S3
and one side of S2. This can be made
using tinned copper wire.
The 8-way cable is captured with
a cordgrip grommet in the end of the
case and the free end is cut to 1100mm
long (or longer if you want but you
will need more cable). The end is
then stripped and terminated into the
8-pin DIN line plug. Do not forget to
slide the plastic boot of the plug onto
the lead before connecting the wires.
Construction
The walk-around throttle is housed in a standard
plastic case measuring 83
x 54 x 31mm. The first
step in construction involves drilling holes for
the switches in the lid of
the case and a hole for the
cordgrip grommet in the
end of the case.
You can use a photocopy
of the front panel label (see
72 Silicon Chip
Fig.2: the wiring of the hand-held controller box and the DIN plug. The length of cable
between the two can be as long as necessary (ours was 1.1m long). The inside of the handheld controller is shown in the photo at right.
Fig.3: part of
the PC board
component
layout from
last month,
with the
components
in red to be
deleted from
the hard-wired
“walk around”
version. The IC
socket, though,
is an addition.
The Railpower itself requires a
number of alterations from the wiring
layout (Fig.6) depicted in last month’s
issue.
First, you will need to drill and
ream out a hole for the 8-pin DIN
panel socket at the rear panel. Secure
this with screws and nuts.
When assembling the PC board for
the Railpower, leave out IC1, Q1, IC2,
and the components associated with
pins 2 & 13 of IC2. A 14-pin IC socket
is installed in place of IC2. We have
shown the relevant corner of the PC
board with the omitted components
dotted, in Fig.3.
A 400mm length of 8-way cable
needs to be made up with the 14-pin
header at one end and the 8-pin DIN
socket (on the rear panel) at the other
end. The details of this are shown
in Fig.4.
Four 10kΩ resistors are connected
between pin 1 and pins 5, 6, 7 & 9. A
22µF capacitor is connected between
pins 1 and 7, with the positive lead
going to pin 7.
Fig.5: same size artwork for the front
panel of the hand controller in the
“walk around” Railpower.
Testing
Having finished assembly of your
Railpower, do all the initial checks
as described in last month’s article.
Then plug in the handheld control.
Check that the Inertia switch turns
the associated LED on the Railpower
panel either on or off and that the
stop LED turns on or off with alternate
pressings of the pushbutton. The speed
up and speed down selections should
alter the meter reading up or down.
The track LED should gradually
light up as the speed is increased and
be of a different colour depending on
the forward or reverse setting.
It may come up very slowly in
brightness because of the inertia set-
ting. You can switch the inertia out for
a faster response to the track voltage.
Note also that the forward or reverse
functions can only be made when the
reverse lockout LED is off.
You should be able to remove the
plug from the socket at the rear of the
Railpower unit without affecting the
train’s motion.
The only exception is that the
inertia control will always return to
the ON setting with the plug disconnected.
If you want additional 8-pin DIN
sockets around your layout, these can
be wired in daisy-chain fashion using
the Cat 5 cable.
Fig.4: the DIN socket to header pin wiring which goes
inside the RAILPOWER case. This cable should be
about 400mm long.
DECEMBER 1999 73
Installing a speed control knob
Inevitably, someone always wants a variation to a
design after we have published it and the Railpower is
no different in this respect. No sooner had the October
issue hit the streets than a reader wrote in to say that
he wanted a walk-around throttle with a speed control
knob instead of the UP and DOWN buttons. Could we
please publish the details?
Well, it is stretching the friendship but since other
readers will probably want to do the same, we are publishing brief details here. We should point out right now
that there are a few more modifications involved to the
74 Silicon Chip
Railpower itself. Fortunately, the handheld control can
still be wired up using 8-way Cat 5 cable.
Note that while we have produced a prototype handheld walk-around controller as described in Figs.1 to 4,
we have not produced a version with a speed control
knob. In other words, we have not tested the following
modifications.
Fig.6 shows the relevant circuit modifications to the
Railpower circuit. As before, IC1, IC2 and Q1 are omitted
and a 14-pin socket installed in place of IC2. In addition,
diodes D1, D3 & D4, transistors Q2 & Q3 and five resistors
are left out. These omitted components are shown
in red on the diagram of Fig.6.
The 10kΩ speed potentiometer which is installed
in the handheld control is wired via pins 11, 12 &
13 of the 14-pin header. Pin 13 of the header goes
to pin 7 of IC3a and pin 11 of the header goes to
the cathode of diode D2. The wiper of the 10kΩ
potentiometer goes to pin 12 of the header and this,
in turn, connects to C1 and thence to pin 5 of IC4b
via a 1kΩ resistor.
Two cuts must be made to the tracks of the PC
board and again, these are shown on the diagram
of Fig.6. First, the track between the cathode of D2
and pin 5 of IC5a must be cut and so must the track
between pin 5 of IC5a and capacitor C1. These two
cuts leave pin 5 of IC5a not connected to anything.
A section of the PC board layout (Fig.7) shows
where the cuts are to be made. The tracks can be cut
with a sharp, heavy-duty knife (such as a “Stanley”
knife) or they can be cut using a small drill bit. In
either case, ensure the tracks are completely severed
and no swarf shorts out adjacent tracks. (If in doubt,
check with a multimeter).
You will also need to place three long links between
the cut tracks and the appropriate tracks near the IC
header socket. Use fine insulated wire (single lengths
cut from rainbow cable are ideal) and solder them to
the back (copper side) of the PC board where shown.
In wiring up this version of the walk-around
handheld control, you can follow broadly the same
procedure as described above and the testing procedure will be similar as well. However, there will be
one difference in operating the Railpower and that
involves the STOP function.
In the 4-switch version described earlier, if you
operate the STOP button to bring the locomotive to
a halt or slow it down, you only need to push the
Speed switch momentarily up or down to release
the STOP function and allow the train to resume its
previous speed setting.
However, in this Speed knob version, that circuit
feature has been disabled, because diodes D1 and D2
have been removed (there being no Speed switch to
forward bias them).
So to release the STOP function, the STOP button
must be pressed again and this toggles flipflop IC6a
to achieve that function. The Speed knob can then
SC
be used to vary the speed of the locomotive.
Please note: there are two errors in the PC board
component overlay on page 82 of last month’s issue.
IC5 is identified as a 4052; it should be a 4053
(the circuit diagram in the October issue is correct.
Also, IC8 (the IC closest to the 2000µF capacitors) is
identified as IC3. IC3 (top right corner) is itself correctly
identified. Fortunately both IC3 and IC8 are LM324
quad op amps.
Figs.6 (opposite) and 7 (above): these modifications will
allow the use of a 10kΩ potentiometer as a speed controller
instead of push-button control. Again, the relevant sections
only of both the circuit diagram and the component overlay
are shown. Additional components are deleted in this version
and you will also need to modify the circuit board as shown
above with two tracks to be cut and three links to be inserted
(the green, blue and purple wires). These should be soldered
underneath the PC board (ie, on the copper side).
DECEMBER 1999 75
VINTAGE RADIO
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
The Astor KM that blew its
power plug off!
Manufactured in the late 1940s, the Astor KM
was a popular 4-valve mantle radio with some
interesting design features. I was recently given
the job of overhauling one of these sets which
had developed an unusual fault.
It all started when the lady who
owned this particular set rang me to
say “that the power plug had blown
off the lead”. Apparently, the old
Astor had been going well prior to
that happening and she wanted the
plug replaced and the set checked
for faults.
Now this sounded really interesting
and I was really beginning to wonder
whose leg was being pulled. And so
I suggested that she bring the set to
my workshop me so I could see what
had happened.
Sure enough, the lady eventually
turned up with the set in a bag. I went
to lift it out by putting my hand under
the back of the top of the set and it was
obvious that the cabinet was broken.
I said “the cabinet’s broken” and the
lady said “you’ve broken the cabinet”.
Wow, what have I got myself into
Because of its compact size, the Astor KM was popular as a kitchen set. This
particular unit included a number of manufacturing defects which were fixed
when the set was overhauled.
76 Silicon Chip
here, I thought! I looked at the cabinet
and could see dirt in one of the cracks
which meant that it couldn’t have
been done in the last few moments.
She acknowledged this and when I
showed her that there were a number of cracks both new and old she
changed her mind and said it must
have been done by the painters! I said
that I could repair the cabinet.
It just goes to show that some people are quite happy to lay the blame
for a problem on someone else. So
if you are restoring a set for another
person, make sure you know exactly
what they want. It’s also a good idea
for them to show you the set and to
inspect it together if possible.
Having overcome that little problem, the lady showed me the power
plug and yes, it had literally blown
off the twin-flex power lead. And it
wasn’t hard to see why - the power
lead was the original rubber-covered
twin-flex and the rubber had perished
badly and the two leads had shorted
and then melted and blown apart
(see photo).
That such a melt-down occurred
indicates to me that the mains fuse in
the meter box may be much greater
than 15A, consisting perhaps of several strands of 15A fuse wire (a dangerous practice). Don’t laugh – I’ve seen
up to seven strands in a fuseholder!
Anyway, getting back to the Astor,
there were several spots where the
power lead had perished and where
bare wire was showing. One spot had
been taped up but for safety’s sake the
entire lead should have been replaced
years ago. Judging from the liberal
coating of grease over the chassis,
this set is used in the kitchen so just
The set is easy to work on, with all parts under the chassis readily accessible.
Note the wooden dial pulley at top right and the rightangle worm gear drive for
the tuning.
how close the owner has been to electrocution over the years is anybody’s
guess. The cooking grease did protect
the chassis from going rusty though.
The Astor KM
These little sets came out in the
late 1940s and were quite popular.
They are only a 4-valve set but are
reflexed, with the IF stage also acting
as the first audio stage. Although the
performance is not quite to 5-valve
standard it is better than from a
normal 4-valve set. If you want more
information on re
flexing, I suggest
you read the article by John Hill and
myself in the February 1996 issue of
SILICON CHIP.
Despite the fact that they are relatively small and use octal valves,
these sets provide good chassis access. What’s more, the chassis can
be tipped on one end or even placed
upside down without any likelihood
of damage to other parts.
Having got the chassis out of the
cabinet, the only damage I could find
was that one of the pulleys in the
dial-drive system had broken. Astor,
along with some other manufacturers,
used small turned wooden pulleys. I
also noticed that the 5Y3GT rectifier
had been replaced by a 5AS4. The
5AS4 is much bigger physically, has
a much higher rated rectified current
(as required for valve TV sets) and a
higher heater current (3A compared
to the 2A for the 5Y3GT).
It had been in there a long time
and there was no sign (smell) of
overheating, so the power transformer
was obviously not being run to its
maximum capability. Despite this, I
decided to replace the 5AS4 with a
5Y3GT, in the interests of long-term
reliability. In fact, a later check with
a contact thermometer showed that
the transformer ran around 5° cooler
with the correct rectifier fitted.
However, before doing anything,
the power lead had to be replaced (to
ensure my personal safety as much as
anything else). That done, the set was
carefully checked for shorts using a
high voltage insulation tester (several
of these have been described in SILICON CHIP, the latest in January 1999).
In particular, the power transformer
mains winding was tested for leakage
or shorts between it and the chassis.
Fortunately, testing at 500V and
1000V showed no discernible leakage.
I also like to test the transformer
by applying power for half an hour
or so with all valves removed to see
whether it heats up to any extent,
as this can indicate shorted turns. It
tested 100%.
A few of the rubber insulated wires
in the set wiring were also perished
and were replaced. This is a common
problem in sets that used rubber-covered hook-up wire.
As I normally do, I removed all the
critical paper capacitors and replaced
them with polyester or ceramic types.
In par
t icular, I replace all audio
coupling and AGC bypass capacitors
before applying power to the set’s
amplifying stages. Often, just by doing
that, the set will operate - perhaps not
at its peak performance but enough to
show that the restoration work will
be successful.
In this case, I decided to go one
step further and replace all the leaky
paper capacitors. Note however that
it’s possible for a capacitor to be
leaky but not cause any trouble in
the set. For example, cathode bypass
capacitors can be quite leaky but will
cause no problems as they are usually
in parallel with low-value resistors.
Further checks revealed a couple
of resistors that had gone high so
they were also replaced. After that,
DECEMBER 1999 77
Despite its age, the old Astor was in pretty good nick. The set used four valves
in a reflex circuit, with the IF stage also acting as the first audio stage. It worked
well, although the performance is not quite up to 5-valve standards.
it was down to the serious business
of getting the set running at peak
performance.
Alignment
In this case, the set performed
quite well without any attention to
the alignment. In fact, some restorers
leave the alignment well alone but I
always prefer to go over it and make
any necessary adjustments to ensure
peak performance. In practice, alignment is a straightforward procedure
once the techniques are understood
and will be dealt with in detail in a
future article.
I start by aligning the IF stages
with the tuning gang closed. First,
the signal generator is set to produce
a strong signal on the expected IF of
455kHz and this signal is applied to
the aerial terminal and adjusted until
the receiver responds. Note that the
converter stage is acting purely as a
poor-quality IF amplifier at this stage.
Once the IF amplifier responds, the
signal level is reduced so that it is
audible without significant noise with
the volume turned up high.
In most cases, the frequency will be
close to 455kHz but variations of 1078 Silicon Chip
20kHz from the nominated frequency
are usually unimportant. The slugs
or screws in the top and bottom (and
sometimes on the sides) of the IF
cans are then adjusted for peak audio
output. These adjustments can either
be done by ear (ie, by (listening for
maximum audio output) or by putting
a sensitive AC millivoltmeter across
the speaker terminals and reading
the peak audio level. There are usually only four slugs to adjust for best
performance.
In this set, I found that the slug that
tuned the IF winding feeding the diode detector was all the way in but the
stage hadn’t been peaked. It was close
but just wouldn’t quite get there. This
problem was solved by connecting a
3-30pF trimmer capacitor across the
winding and adjusted it for maximum
output. It peaked quite satisfactorily
at about 18pF.
Often, if the slug appears to be
getting close to a peak but can’t quite
get there, it’s an indication that the IF
transformer is faulty. I’ll go into that
situation another time. In this case,
the 18pF of additional capacitance
allowed the detec
tor tuned circuit
to be peaked quite nicely but why it
needed the additional capacitance is
a bit of a mystery.
The Astor’s performance improved
considerably after the IF adjustments,
so the exercise was well worthwhile.
The aerial and oscillator coils were
very close to optimum adjustment.
However, a couple of turns of fine
wire had to be removed from the
“wire-type” oscillator trimmer to get
the correct tuning range. The aerial
coil has no adjustment for the low
frequency end of the broadcast band
and only required a very minor tweak
on the trimmer at around 1400kHz.
By the way, any aerial coil adjustments should be carried out with
the intended aerial connected to the
aerial socket of the receiver (not the
signal generator). That’s because the
different characteristics of the signal
generator could cause the aerial alignment to be incorrect in some cases.
The signal from the generator is
coupled in by wrapping its lead
around the aerial lead and then
increasing the output until there is
enough signal pickup for the alignment to be carried out. It’s important
to pick a spot on the dial away from
any station otherwise, it will interfere
with the alignment work.
By this stage, the old Astor was performing really well. No valves needed
replacing except for the rectifier,
as explained earlier. However, dial
lamps usually do need replacing and
this set was no exception, requiring
two 6V 0.3A MES lamps.
Dial drive
The dial drive mechanisms on some
Astors leave a lot to be desired and
this set initially looked like falling
into that category.
In this case, the set used the tried
and proven rightangle worm gear
drive from the tuning shaft to the
gang. Fortunately, the fibre gear hadn’t
been damaged (like so many are) but
of the four pulleys in the dial system,
only two were free to move and one of
these had been broken (probably during the fall that cracked the cabinet).
The other two pulleys couldn’t move
at all as they were held tight by the
mounting screws, which meant that
the dial cord could only slide over
them. And although the dial cord
probably lasted a long time, it would
last even longer if the pulleys turned.
I decided to dismantle the two immoveable pulleys from their mounts
and see if I there was any way that I
could make them rotate freely. Once
I had dismantled one of them, it became obvious that the star shakeproof
washer had been put on in the wrong
sequence and when the assembly was
tightened up the pulley was squeezed
against the mount and the star washer.
No wonder the pulley couldn’t move.
Installing the star washer under the
head of the screw instead of between
the nut and the pulley left enough
room for the pulley to rotate freely
and so both assemblies were modified
accordingly. I suspect that this was an
error that was made at the factory and
it has subsequently escaped detection
by various service personnel.
The broken wooden dial-drive
pulley initially looked like being a
real problem. However, during discussions with the set’s owner, the
idea that a wood turner may be able
to make up a suitable pulley was floated. As it turned out, the lady knew
a wood turner and the manufactured
part, along with a new dial cord, did
the job quite nicely.
Tidying up
Although the set was now working
properly, there was still quite a bit of
tidying up to do. First, the original
speaker cloth was in a mess and had
to be replaced. I fitted some darkbrown open-weave cloth that I had,
gluing this to the front of the speaker
frame with a thin smear of contact
adhesive. Once the adhesive had
dried, the cloth was trimmed around
the edges of the speaker frame to give
a neat finish.
The on-off switch/volume control
knob also needed atten
tion. This
control had been replaced at some
stage but either the correct style
either wasn’t available at the time
or the repairer couldn’t be bothered
obtaining the correct part, as the
switch in the replacement unit is a
push-pull type. The problem with
the push-pull unit is that the original
slide-on knob comes off in your hand
after the control has been operated a
few times. In this case, the repairer
had overcome that problem by fitting
a different knob.
Unfortunately, the tuning knob
was missing and it looked as though
I would have to fit a couple of knobs
that were roughly the right size but
which certainly wouldn’t match the
set. But as luck would have it, a friend
The rubber insulation on the power cord had perished so badly that the wires
shorted together and melted, detaching the power plug. Just how close the set’s
owner had come to electrocution is anyone’s guess.
had a couple of knobs that are similar
to the originals and these are the ones
that were finally fitted. They certainly
look a lot better on this set than any
of the knobs that I had in my junkbox.
Finally, although the details of the
cabinet repairs have been left until
last, they were in fact done early in
the piece. Sets with broken cabinets
are not often viable to repair but in
this case there were no missing pieces
and the job was quite straightforward.
First, the cabinet was given a good
clean in warm, soapy water and then
thoroughly rinsed, making sure all
the cracks were as clean as possible.
Most of these cracks were at one end
of the cabinet. Where possible, each
crack was sprung open, the gap filled
with Araldite® and the crack allowed
to close again. Any excess glue was
removed after drying with a sharp
blade.
Of course, some of the cracks
couldn’t be sprung open without the
risk of wrecking the cabinet but these
are hardly noticeable. The glue on the
larger cracks did a good job and the
cabinet repair was quite successful.
Performance
The Astor KM was a popular
4-valve reflex set, its small size making it ideal for use as a kitchen set
or second set. It doesn’t boast super
sensitivity but it works and works
well even in country areas.
Like most Astor sets, it has a rather complex negative feedback tone/
loudness control. Its effectiveness is
questionable in such a small set but
similar tone control networks were
very effective in some of the larger
Astor sets.
The set is also easy to work on and
is apparently very reliable. Radio
Corporation deservedly had a little
SC
winner in this little receiver.
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Pt.16: Microwave Sulphur Lamps
Electric
Lighting
Microwave sulphur lamps are a relatively
new innovation in the lighting industry and
the concept is quite simple: use a magnetron
to excite sulphur to produce a high luminous
output. The lamps are commercially
available and are suitable for hollow light
guide applications.
By JULIAN EDGAR
T
HE MICROWAVE SULPHUR
lamp was invented in 1990 by
US scientist Michael Ury, at
the end of a 4-year research period.
Subsequently, in 1992, Fusion Lighting Inc, Maryland (USA) obtained all
rights for the development of the light
source, making it available commercially as the Fusion Light Drive 1000.
82 Silicon
iliconCChip
hip
These sulphur lamps frequently
use hollow light guides to distribute
and transport the light, with 3M’s
Light Pipe being a popular choice.
We’ll talk more about light guides
later on in this article.
Lamp development
The sulphur lamp bulb consists
of a 35mm quartz sphere filled with
a few milligrams of yellow sulphur
powder and an inert gas (such as
argon) which is weakly ionised using
microwaves. When it is ionised, the
argon heats the sulphur into a gaseous state, thereby forming diatomic
sulphur molecules or “dimers”.
These dimers emit a broad continuum of energy as they drop back to
lower energy states.
The light radiation that is produced is almost entirely within the
visible spectrum, with very little
undesirable ultraviolet or infrared
radiation.
The microwaves are generated
by two magnetrons operating at a
frequency of 2.45GHz. As it is irradiated, the lamp bulb is spun at
3400 rpm (apparently to stabilise the
plasma’s position within the bulb),
with two fans providing forced air
FACING PAGE: microwave sulphur
lamps are used in conjunction with
long sections of 3M Light Pipe at the
Volvo Bus Manufacturing Plant in
Boras, Sweden. The system provides
high output, significantly reduces
energy costs and is said to be ideal for
use where maintenance is difficult or
hazardous.
Fusion Lighting’s
microwave sulphur
lamp (below) has a
tiny bulb compared
with a 1000W metal
halide lamp as seen
at right. Not shown
in this view is the
extensive ancillary
equipment needed to
drive it!
cooling. Fig.1 shows a schematic
diagram of the lamp while Fig.2 is
a more detailed view of the Fusion
Light Drive 1000.
Note that the sulphur bulb is installed in the optical centre of a reflector system, to direct the light output.
Prior to the development of this
lamp, sulphur had not been used
because it quickly corrodes the electrodes used in conventional bulbs.
However, while experimenting
with a variety of substances, Ury
and colleague James Dolan decided
to replace the mercury used in UV
lamps with sulphur and then subject
the bulb to microwaves. They picked
the correct magnetron and rotational
speed for the bulb on the first try and
Ury is quoted as saying “if we [hadn’t
got] everything together like that, we
might have missed it.”
The first lamps were rated at 3.5kW
and had a light output of 450,000
lumens. By contrast, the Light Drive
1000 sulphur lamp which was subsequently made commercially available
is rated at 1kW and has a light output
of 135,000 lumens. Together with the
auxiliary system, this lamp requires a
power input of 1.425kW which means
that it has an efficacy of about 95
lumens/watt of the total lamp power.
Lower power lamps that use radio
frequencies (RF) instead of microwaves are also currently under development. An RF-driven sulphur
lamp that produces up to 15,000
lumens with an RF input of only
100 watts has been demonstrated – a
luminous efficacy of approximately
140 lumens per RF watt. As with the
microwave-excited versions, these
lamps still need to be rotated but their
lower power operation allows the
forced-air cooling to be eliminated.
Lamp operation
One of the most interesting characteristics of the microwave sulphur
lamp is that its spectral output is
remarkably similar to sunlight. This
Fig.1: this diagram shows how the microwave sulphur lamp
works. Microwaves generated by a magnetron are used to
irradiate a quartz sphere containing argon and a small quantity of
sulphur. The ionised argon heats the sulphur into a gaseous state,
forming diatomic sulphur molecules which emit light.
DECEMBER 1999 83
can under conventional high intensity gas discharge illumination.
Warm-up time
With the exception of fluorescent
lamps, the warm-up time of the sulphur lamp is notably shorter than for
other gas discharge lamps. A sulphur
lamp reaches 80% of its final luminous flux within 20 seconds and the
lamp can be restarted approximately
5 minutes after a power cut.
By using a computer-controlled
electronic power supply, the sulphur
lamp can be dimmed to 20% of its
maximum luminous flux, at which
point its power consumption will
have dropped by 60%. And unlike
high intensity discharge lamps such
as the metal halide design, the colour temperature of the sulphur lamp
varies relatively little during the
dimming process, dropping by only
approximately 500K.
The life of the lamp itself is expected to be at least 60,000 hours – in fact,
Fusion Lighting suggest that the bulb
itself may never wear out. However,
the life of the magnetrons is much
shorter, being about 15-20,000 hours.
To overcome this problem, Fusion
Lighting recently released a new
LightDrive 1000 with an electronic
mag
netron power supply and two
spare magnetron kits. The new power
supply is claimed to have increased
each magnetron’s service life to at
least 20,000 hours, meaning that with
the spare magnetrons, a service life of
at least 60,000 hours for the complete
lamp is achievable.
Lamp applications
Fig.2: the Fusion LightDrive 1000 is a commercially available lamp using
microwave sulphur technology. It uses two magnetrons to irradiate the sulphur
bulb plus two fans to keep everything cool. The output from the lamp is coupled
to a light pipe.
means that objects viewed under the
light of a microwave sulphur lamp
have practically the same appearance
as when viewed under sunlight.
Fig.3 shows the spectrum of the
sulphur lamp compared with the
sensitivity of the eye and the spectral
output of the Sun. The colour temperature of the LightDrive 1000 lamp is
5700K and the colour reproduction
index is Ra 79.
By the way, the amount of UV radiation emitted by the lamp is lower than
for sunlight. In fact, for wavelengths
less than 380nm, it comprises only
84 Silicon Chip
0.14% of the total light output. A
similar situation occurs for infrared
radiation, which makes up less than
8% of the total output for wavelengths
higher than 780nm.
The low UV radiation figure means
that materials exposed to the light
will age at a slower rate than if they
were exposed to sunlight. What’s
more, the heat load will be more favourable than for sunlight due to the
reduced amount of infrared radiation.
These two properties mean that plastics can be used more widely under
sulphur lamp illumination than they
The sulphur lamp’s very high luminous intensity and near point-source
construction makes it very suitable
for hollow light guide applications.
One of the first uses of the sulphur
lamp has been in a demonstration
lighting system installed at the Smith
sonian Institute’s National Air and
Space Museum in Washington DC,
USA. This system was installed in
August 1994 and uses three 27-metre
long (266mm diameter) hollow light
guides, located three metres from the
ceiling and 18 metres from the gallery
floor. A single 455,000 lumen sulphur
lamp illuminates each light guide,
with about 222,000 lumens passed
into the light guide itself.
The hollow light guides have an
efficiency of 55% and the light is
Silicon Chip
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Fig.3: how 3M’s light-pipe system works. The light from the lamp is reflected by
the prismatic film lining the inside walls as it travels down the tube, with some
of the light escaping through a fine pattern of holes along the way.
Fig.4: the spectral output
of the sulphur lamp
closely coincides with
the spectral output of
sunlight. This means that
objects viewed under a
sulphur lamp and under
sunlight have practically
the same appearance.
These binders will protect your
copies of SILICON CHIP. They feature heavy-board covers & are
made from a distinctive 2-tone
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extracted from them through a fine
pattern of holes in the “micro-replicated” prismatic film material lining
the inside surfaces. The density of
the holes varies over the length of
the tubes to create the desired light
distribution pattern.
After passing through the holes,
the light is efficiently reflected downwards by a secondary micro-replicated prismatic film located on the
underside of the guide. This results
in uniform, efficient illumination far
beneath the guide itself.
The Smithsonian system is used to
light 1150 square metres and replaced
94 high-intensity discharge lamps.
It delivers around 350 lux at viewer
level, a figure that’s about four times
higher than the original light level –
all this for less than half the cost of a
conventional lighting upgrade.
The US Department of Energy is a
financial backer of the development
of the sulphur lamp and also has its
own installation. In this case, a single 85-metre long hollow light guide
equipped with two sulphur lamps
has been used to illuminate a plaza.
This installation replaced a system
that used 280 high-intensity mercury
discharge luminaires, resulting in a
measured energy reduction of 65%
and saving the DOE US$8000 annually in direct energy costs. Reduced
maintenance costs are said to save an
additional US$1500 per year. At the
same time, the new system provides
light levels that are approximately
four times higher than from the old
mercury discharge system.
Other installations of sulphur lamp
light guides have been made in European subway stations, the Hill Air
Force Base in the US, at a Volvo bus
and truck assembly plant in Sweden, and at an indoor karting track
at Westerholt in Germany. Finally,
sulphur lights are being investigated
by the motion picture industry due to
the light’s daylight colour and high
SC
intensity.
Footnote: as this was written, it
appears that Fusion Lighting has
withdrawn its current sulphur lamp
from sale, pending the introduction
of a new design.
Price: $A12.95 plus $A5 p&p.
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DECEMBER 1999 85
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This concise and practical book offers readers
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then “HTML4.0 Made Simple” is for you.
it uses a combination of tutorial approach,
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TCP/IP EXPLAINED.............................................$90.00
LOCAL AREA NETWORKS..................................$65.00
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THE CIRCUIT DESIGNER’S COMPANION...........$59.95
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES......................$59.95
UNDERSTANDING TELEPHONE ELECTRONICS....$55.00
AUDIO ELECTRONICS........................................$79.00
GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY...............$55.00
EMC FOR PRODUCT DESIGNERS.......................$95.00
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INTERNET HOME PAGES MADE SIMPLE...........$24.95
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Intended for those who want to become more
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facing the challenge of a 400-page text. The
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This book is for non-specialist users of electric
motors and drives. The author explores most
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DECEMBER
ecember 1999 87
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Write to: Ask Silicon Chip, PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097.
No attack
or delay
I have recently built the Guitar Limiter as described in the October 1998
issue of SILICON CHIP but the attack
and delay functions don’t have any
effect at all. The board seems to be in
order. I had noticed that the component overlay diagram on page 70 has
the capacitor next to a 22kΩ resistor
not marked. The circuit diagram
shows it to be a 1µF electrolytic. Am
I correct on that? (D. F., Salisbury, SA).
• The unlabelled electrolytic capacitor on the overlay diagram is 1µF. The
only reason that the attack and decay
controls would not operate, apart from
misplaced components, is that the
gain limit control is set too high or the
output level is set incorrectly. Make
sure that the output level trimpot,
VR3, is set as per the instructions on
page 73 under “Testing”.
Hybrid bridge
voice circuit
I have a son with a severe hearing
problem. Has SILICON CHIP ever described a suitable balanced amplifier
Wiring up the
Waa Waa pedal
I recently bought a Waa Waa
Effects kit, as described in the
September 1998 issue of SILICON
CHIP. As I have little experience in
electronics I ran into a few snags.
How do you wire the slider pot, the
pedal and the SPDT slider switch
to the circuit?
The power supply is 12V but is it
possible to run it off a 9V battery?
Could I possibly have run it from a
DC plugpack and a battery as well,
to make it more versatile? (S. W.,
via email)
• The slider potentiometer is
wired with the two end connec
tions to the terminals marked on
88 Silicon Chip
for use in such an application; ie,
adapted to amplifying incoming voice
without affecting the outgoing voice?
He is using some wheelbarrow size
gear put together by his brother from
disposals rack-mounted equipment
and finds it very helpful but it’s certainly not portable!
This must surely be a widespread
problem. I would be grateful for any
suggestions that occur to you. (G. B.,
O’Connor, ACT).
• We don’t have a balanced amplifier
for phones but you might like to have
a look at the Hands-Free Telephone
circuit published in the September
1988 issue. It used a special Motorola
IC with an inbuilt hybrid circuit. We
can supply a photocopy of the article
for $7 including postage.
Circuit for
humidity control
Is there a circuit diagram available
for a humidity control or where could
I find one? (J. D., Mathoura, NSW).
• We published a 3-function weather station, incorporating barometer,
temperature & humidity, in the April
1993 issue. It used a Philips humidity
the PC board overlay as “To VR1”.
One lug goes to one terminal and
the other lug to the other terminal.
The wiper of the slider pot goes
to the terminal marked “To VR1
Wiper” on the PC board overlay
diagram. If you subsequently find
that the Waa Waa effect operates
backwards then swap the wires to
the “to VR1” terminals.
If you’re not sure which pot
terminal is the wiper, it can be
found by checking the resistance
between the terminals. The two
end terminals will not change
in resistance as the pot slider is
moved from one end to the other.
Both the spare terminals are the
wiper connection.
The slider switch is mounted
sensor. We can supply the April 1993
issue for $7, including postage.
Rev limiter for
race circuit car
I have just purchased the Rev
Limiter Kit and Ignition Switcher
(described in April 1999) to install in
my mid 70s 4-cylinder car. It is a dedicated circuit racing car with a 1.6 litre
full race engine (carburettors). So this
project is absolutely ideal for the car.
But I was wondering if it was possible to modify the Rev Limiter to
momentarily operate at a set RPM via
an additional switch. What I need is to
be able to hold the engine at say 4500
RPM (using the Rev Limiter to do so)
whilst waiting for the green start light.
When the lights go green and therefore
the race starts, the engine would be
held at the 4500 RPM (or whatever)
to enable a perfect start. When the
car gets going and has good traction,
I would then release this button and
the engine would then be able to spin
out fully to the set Rev limit.
Would this be possible and what
modifications are needed? (Paul, via
email).
on the PC board with the common
terminal in the centre. Note that
the switch can be a SPDT (single
pole double throw) type. If you
want to wire the switch to a panel,
then simply wire it to the board,
maintaining the same connections.
The pedal is connected to the PC
board with a stereo jack plug and
three-core wire such as a balanced
microphone lead. This has two
cores and a shield. The shield can
be the 0V supply connection. You
need to use a stereo socket on the
pedal so that the three wires can
be connected.
The circuit can be operated
from either a 9V battery or a DC
plugpack without any further
modifications.
•
It is certainly feasible to modify
the Rev Limiter to provide a preset
limit. You could arrange to have the
limit output switchable between pin 1
and pin 7 of IC2 to achieve this effect.
However, while it is feasible we
are not sure it would be suitable for
racing starts. The problem is that the
rev limit severely cuts back the power
and also puts unburnt fuel into the ex
haust system which might also cause
a problem if you are really tromping
on the accelerator.
Upgrading the plastic
power amplifier
I recently built an amplifier based
on the 125W/175W amplifier module
published in the April 1996 issue of
your magazine. I’m very happy with
the sound quality but I would like an
increase in power output without necessary jumping to the 500W module
published in the August, September &
October 1997 issues. My idea is to increase the size of the PC board (lengthwise) and add additional wiring, etc to
accommodate an extra pair of output
transistors. My questions are:
(1). Would adding an extra pair of
output transistors allow me to deliver
more power to the load (8Ω) and keep
within the distortion figures quoted
(as per the April 1996 module)?
(2). Would I have to do any modifications to the driver or input stages
to cope with the additional loading?
My power supply consists of a
500VA toroidal transformer and six
(15,000µF 80VW) capacitors. The
resulting supply rails are about ±63V.
I have also changed the 100µF and
0.1µF capacitors (on the circuit board)
from 63V rating to 100V.
Also of note, I’m running the output
transistors at the moment at about
30mA each of quiescent current and
the main heatsink remains very cool
and the heatsinks on the BF470 (Q6)
and BF469 (Q8) are lukewarm at best.
Even after running the amplifier at a
reasonable volume for an hour or so,
both heatsinks remain relatively cool.
(B. F., via email).
• If you are only going to drive 8Ω
speakers, there is little point in adding the extra transistors. Your beefed
up power supply will probably mean
that the amplifier will deliver about
150W/channel and this can be easily
handled by the existing transistors.
However, if you wanted to drive
Repairing a faulty
NAD amplifier
I have acquired an old NAD 3020
integrated stereo amplifier which I
would like to use. However I find
that the output to the speakers is
very distorted and fuzzy even at
very low levels. As this amplifier is
so old, it is uneconomical to send
it to a serviceman and I would like
to troubleshoot and repair the amplifier myself.
I am a former Telecom technician
(retired) and have been an electronics hobbyist for many years but have
no experience whatsoever in the art
of “audio troubleshooting”. Can you
recommend a source of knowledge
in this area that I could study and/
or perhaps offer some tips which
4Ω loads, you would definitely need
the extra transistors. There would
then be some slight degradation of
the distortion figures compared with
those published.
Mind you, the increase in power
output from a nominal 125W to 150W
is only 0.8dB which is inaudible on
normal program material. On balance,
we would leave the amplifier as is.
Generating
video crosshairs
I came across your articles on the
Colour TV Pattern Generator in the
June & July 1997 issues of SILICON
CHIP while looking for a requirement
I have. I wish to make use of some
of those relatively cheap colour CCD
miniature cameras for targeting objects in a range of applications. What I
need is a device to generate a crosshair
pattern superimposed on the camera
video that can be retrofitted inside
standard video monitors to allow
them to be used as fairly accurate
sights.
Could the Pattern Generator be
configured to perform this function
easily with some slight modification
to facilitate gen-locking, etc? (K. F.,
via email).
• The generator could be adapted for
your application since the checker
board pattern could be modified to
provide the crosshair pattern. The
project was designed to allow con-
may help me to achieve my goal of
restoring the sound of this excellent
old amplifier? My investigations so
far indicate the problem to be in
the power stage of the unit. (A. L.,
via email).
• We understand that AWA Distribution handle NAD products so
you might be able to get a circuit
diagram from them. Failing that,
we would give the amplifier a close
inspection to find any overheated or
otherwise faulty components. Then
check the base-emitter voltage of
every transistor in the circuit. They
should all lie in the range from 0.6
to 0.75V. Any that don’t fall in this
range are probably faulty or have
an associated faulty component.
We can’t suggest a suitable reference book.
structors to modify the pattern in
Basic on a computer and then reprogram the EPROM. The information
supplied in the TV pattern generator
articles should be sufficient to allow
you to generate your own code for
the crosshair.
However the unit would be too
large to be housed in a camera. The
alternative would be to program a
microcontroller to produce the patterns. While the TV pattern generator
used an EPROM to store all pixels and
sync signals in a sequential fashion,
the microcontroller could be more
economical on memory space by having the internal timer decide when to
output a pulse.
The crosshair pattern and sync signals are rather basic and so the coding
would be only short. The PIC16F84
may be a good contender for this
application. Software for developing
it is freely available from the http://
www.microchip.com site.
We published a simple programmer for it in the March 1999 issue of
SILICON CHIP.
Frequency accuracy
of audio generator
I was wondering if the digital
readout on the Audio Signal Generator (featured in February & March
1999) was accurate or would I need
a frequency counter for loudspeaker
testing? (S. B., via email).
DECEMBER 1999 89
Connecting the high
energy ignition system
I’ve just finished constructing
the Universal High Energy Ignition
(June 1998) to put into my 1979
Toyota Corolla but I am having a little difficulty with the connections.
I have tested the unit and adjusted
the current limit adjustment as described in the text. The transistor
is correctly mounted and is not
shorting out on the case.
In the text, it describes connecting the wires as follows: one to
the coil negative, +12V from the
ignition, earth to the case and then
to the chassis, tacho to the tacho (I
already have the electronic tacho
fitted) and points to the points.
The coil is a standard type with
an external ballast resis
tor, connected to a single points-type distributor incorporating a condenser
and noise resistor.
This is where I am having troubles. All is connected as above, but
the car won’t start. Now do I have
to remove the existing wire that
goes from the coil negative to the
•
For general purpose testing the frequency accuracy is good enough. If you
had a signal source of known accuracy
and you were willing to tweak the timing components associated with IC11
(the 555), you could get the accuracy
to better than 1%.
Car stereo
project wanted
I am currently doing a pre-apprenticeship in electrical and we
points and use the kit connections
instead? If so, and I have tried this,
the car doesn’t start! I have also
tried it without the tacho connected but that made no difference.
Can you please assist me? (T. G.,
via email).
• The existing negative lead from
the points should be disconnected
from the points. The points wire is
then connected to the High Energy
Ignition (HEI) input and the output
from the HEI goes to the coil negative. In other words, the wire from
the points in the distributor is used
to trigger the HEI system and the
HEI output now does the switching
job for the coil primary that used
to be done by the points.
Probably the problem you are
having is that the second set of
components for the points 2 circuit
is in circuit. If you are only using
one set of points, remove diode
D2 and the 47Ω 5W resistor next
to this diode.
The tachometer connection can
be made to the tachometer output
on the HEI or left in its original
position if this operates it correctly.
are allowed to build a project of our
own choice. I was wondering if you
could suggest a project design for a
300-400W RMS car stereo amplifier?
(Justin, via email).
• We have not published any 300
to 400W car stereo systems as a DIY
project would be more expensive than
a built-up unit such as those stocked
by Jaycar.
However, we have published a
600W inverter for car sound systems
in October & November 1996 (Jaycar
kit) and a 350W amplifier module in
the August 1996 issue (Altronics kit).
We can supply back issues at $7 each
including postage.
Video-audio transmitter causes picture roll
I recently purchased a video-audio
transmitter kit, as described in the July
1999 issue, from Jaycar Electronics. I
have a picture coming through onto
my monitor but unfortunately it rolls
all the time. Can you suggest a cure?
(J. B., via email).
• The rolling suggests that the sync
level is too low for the monitor to lock
and maintain a steady picture. This
could be due to the levels on VR1
and VR2 not being set correctly. It is
recommended that both VR1 and VR2
be initially set fully clockwise so that
the maximum signal level is applied
to the modulator. The picture may be
a little washed out (excessively bright)
but the locking problem should be
cured. Then wind VR1 back for best
contrast without rolling. Then set VR2
for best contrast if necessary.
If the picture cannot be made to lock
with full clockwise settings for VR1
and VR2, then it is possible that the
470µF capacitors have been inserted
incorrectly. Alternatively, one of them
could be faulty.
Notes & Errata
LED Christmas Tree, November 1999:
three 0.1µF monolithic capacitors are
required, not two as specified in the
parts list. One of these (C6) is not
identified on the PC board component
diagram but is adjacent to pin 1 of the
microcontroller. Also the PC board
overlay shows two 15pF capacitors
but these should be 27pF as shown
on the circuit and parts list.
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such projects should
be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be carried out according to
the instructions in the articles. When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact
with mains AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages or other high
voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability for damages should anyone
be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of SILICON CHIP magazine. Devices or circuits described in
SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing
or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims any liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant
government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the Trade Practices
Act 1974 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are applicable.
90 Silicon Chip
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o
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- all in one handy volume. Here's just a sample of the contents:
Troubleshooting your PC: what to do when things go wrong
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Choosing, installing and taming computer networks
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09
Index to Volume 12:
January-December 1999
Features
01/99 4 The Y2K Bug & A Few Other
Worries
01/99 40 4.8MW – Blowing In The Wind
01/99 73 Electric Lighting; Pt.10
01/99 86 How To Listen to Community
AM Radio
02/99 4 Installing A Computer Network
02/99 18 Traction Control Systems
02/99 34 Making Front Panels For Your
Projects
02/99 80 Electric Lighting; Pt.11
03/99 4 Dead Computer? Don’t Throw
It – Rat It!
03/99 7 Getting Started With Linux Pt.1
03/99 82 Electric Lighting; Pt.12
04/99 4 Autopilots For Radio-Controlled Model Aircraft
04/99 10 Getting Started With Linux Pt.2
04/99 71 Electric Lighting; Pt.13
05/99 3 A Web Site That’s Out Of This
World
05/99 8 Model Plane Flies The Atlantic
05/99 80 Getting Started With Linux Pt.3
06/99 4 Hard Disk Upgrades Without
Reinstalling Software
06/99 12 Your Valuable Magnetic Tapes
Are Dying
06/99 66 What Is A Groundplane Antenna?
06/99 77 HomeFree: Diamond’s Wireless Network
06/99 86 Getting Started With Linux Pt.4
07/99 4 Tiny, Tiny Spy Planes
07/99 10 Sydney’s Superstorm
07/99 80 CLIO: PC-Driven Loudspeaker
Testing
08/99 4 Cleaning The Smokestacks –
Hazelwood Power Station
08/99 78 Making Negatives From Positives – Reversing Protel PCB
Files
08/99 82 Electric Lighting; Pt.14
09/99 4 Automatic Addressing On TCP/
IP Networks
09/99 9 BreezeNet: Wireless Networking Without The Hassles
10/99 4 Sharing A Modem For Internet
& Email Access
10/99 37 Introducing Home Theatre
10/99 79 JBL’s TC1000 Programmable
Remote Control
11/99 4 USB: Hassle-Free Connections
To Your PC
11/99 39 Electric Lighting, Pt.15
11/99 56 Setting Up An Email Server
12/99 4 JBL’s 21st Century Loudspeaker Technology
12/99 10 Review: Denon AVC-A1D AV
92 Silicon Chip
Surround Amplifier
12/99 64 Internet Connection Sharing
Using Hardware
12/99 82 Electric Lighting, Pt.16
Serviceman’s Log
01/99 68 Philips Matchline 33CE7538/42R; Akai VP170 Video
Machine; Akai CT1406A;
JVC C-14K1AU; Sony VTX100M TV Stereo Tuner; Sony
PD-1704S SVGA Multiscan
Computer Monitor
02/99 56 NEC FS6325; Toshiba
289X9M; Teac Televideo
MV1440; Philips 28GR671
G111-S
03/99 19 Mintron MTV-3001CB CCD
Colour Camera; Sony KVF29SZ2 (G3F chassis); Sony
KV-G21S1; NEC FS-6391
Stereo TV; VHG-105 VCR
04/99 18 Sony KVF29S; Sharp CX4814; Sharp VC-H865X;
Masuda T1092; Bell & Howell
VS-IC
05/99 29 Panasonic TC1401; Teac
CTM-143; NEC FS-6325; AWA
CT-1447AM; Mitsubishi HS338A VCR
06/99 28 Sanyo TLS-1000P Time-Lapse
Video Recorder; Sharp V1
Stereo A-V System; Sanyo
C14ZA25 TV
07/99 42 Samsung CB230Z; Philips
21CT8873/75Z (KR5187R)
08/99 74 NEC FS6330; Telefunken
SDX290H
09/99 30 Toshiba ER-562ETA Microwave Oven; Akai CT2105A TV;
Mitsubishi HS-M54(A) VCR;
Panasonic NV-HD100 VCR;
Akai CT-2868 TV
10/99 20 Toshiba 2529SH TV; JVC
775AU TV; JVC CX-60ME TV;
Hitachi C33-P900 TV; Mac
LC630 Computer
11/99 26 Loewe Studio 70 (110C91
Chassis); Sharp VC-A200X
VCR; Pye Radio/Cassette/CD
Player; Teac CT-M144 TV
12/99 18 Sony TVs: KV-2064EC (XE3
Chassis), KV-F29SZ2 (G3F),
KV-2585AS (GP-1A), KVF29SZ2 (G3F), KV-S29SN1
(G1); Sharp SX-51F7
Computer Features
01/99 4 The Y2K Bug & A Few Other
Worries
02/99 4 Installing A Computer Network
03/99 4 Dead Computer? Don't Throw
It – Rat It!
03/99 7 Getting Started With Linux Pt.1
04/99 10 Getting Started With Linux Pt.2
05/99 80 Getting Started With Linux Pt.3
06/99 4 Hard Disk Upgrades Without
Reinstalling Software
06/99 77 HomeFree: Diamond’s Wireless Network
06/99 86 Getting Started With Linux Pt.4
09/99 4 Automatic Addressing On TCP/
IP Networks
09/99 9 BreezeNet: Wireless Networking Without The Hassles
10/99 4 Sharing A Modem For Internet
& Email Access
11/99 4 USB: Hassle-Free Connections
To Your PC
11/99 56 Setting Up An Email Server
12/99 64 Internet Connection Sharing
Using Hardware
Radio Control
01/99 80 Model R/C Helicopters; Pt.1
02/99 60 Model R/C Helicopters; Pt.2
03/99 53 Model R/C Helicopters; Pt.3
04/99 4 Autopilots For Radio-Controlled Model Aircraft
05/99 8 Model Plane Flies The Atlantic
07/99 4 Tiny, Tiny Spy Planes
Vintage Radio
01/99 88 Improving AM Broadcast Reception; Pt.3
02/99 87 The Classic Atwater Kent
Model 32
03/99 78 The Radiolette Model 31/32
04/99 76 Wow! My First Vintage Radio
05/99 86 Restoring The Butchered Set
06/99 74 Restoring An AWA B15 Mantle
Radio
07/99 68 A Mainland Chinese Radio
Receiver From The 1960s
08/99 42 A Killer – The Set From Hell
(4-Valve Operatic TRF)
09/99 53 Vintage Hifi Stereo AM Radio
10/99 76 Jim Birtchness & His Radios
11/99 68 The Case Of The Disappearing
TV Sets
12/99 76 The Astor KM That Blew Its
Power Plug Off!
Circuit Notebook
01/99 30 9V Battery Checker
01/99 30 Timed Audible Alarm
01/99 31 Balanced Input & Bridging
Module
01/99 31 PC Stake Crimper
01/99 31 Low Current Shunt Regulator
Projects to Build
04/99 80 A Rev Limiter For Cars
05/99 16 The Line Dancer Robot
05/99 24 XYZ Table With Stepper Motor
Control; Pt.1
05/99 37 Three Electric Fence Testers
05/99 56 Heart of LEDs
05/99 61 Carbon Monoxide Alarm
06/99 18 FM Radio Tuner Card For PCs
06/99 38 XYZ Table With Stepper Motor
Control; Pt.2
06/99 56 Programmable Ignition Timing
Module For Cars; Pt.1
06/99 82 Make Your Burglar Alarm System More Versatile
07/99 18 Build The Dog Silencer
07/99 26 Inductance Meter
07/99 36 Audio-Video Transmitter
07/99 60 Programmable Ignition Timing
Module For Cars; Pt.2
07/99 72 XYZ Table With Stepper Motor
Control; Pt.3
07/99 84 The Hexapod Robot
08/99 16 Remote Modem Controller
08/99 26 Daytime Running Lights For
Cars
08/99 35 Build A PC Monitor Checker
08/99 54 Switching Temperature Controller
08/99 60 XYZ Table With Stepper Motor
Control; Pt.4
09/99 18 Autonomouse The Robot; Pt.1
09/99 35 Voice Direct Speech Recognition Module
09/99 63 Digital Electrolytic Capacitance
Meter
09/99 72 XYZ Table With Stepper Motor
Control; Pt.5
09/99 86 A Peltier-Powered Can Cooler
10/99 16 Backup Battery For Cordless
Phones
10/99 24 Build The Railpower; Pt.1
10/99 54 Semiconductor Curve Tracer
10/99 64 Autonomouse The Robot; Pt.2
10/99 82 XYZ Table With Stepper Motor
Control; Pt.6
11/99 16 A Speed Alarm For Cars; Pt.1
11/99 31 Multi-Colour LED Xmas Tree
11/99 62 Intercom Station Expander
11/99 72 Foldback Loudspeaker System
For Musicians
11/99 80 Build The Railpower; Pt.2
12/99 23 Build A Solar Panel Regulator
12/99 32 The PC Powerhouse
12/99 36 Fortune Finder Metal Locator
12/99 54 A Speed Alarm For Cars; Pt.2
12/99 70 Build The Railpower; Pt.3
02/99 76 24V Output For Trickle Charger
02/99 76 Timed Audible Alarm
02/99 77 Temperature Controlled Fan
For Power Amplifiers
02/99 77 Bedside Lamp/Tape Recorder
Timer
03/99 42 Optical Pickup For 5-Digit
Tachometer
03/99 42 PC-Controlled LED Matrix
Display
03/99 44 12V Charge Indicator
03/99 44 Solid State Relay Circuit
03/99 44 Simple Alarm Circuit
03/99 44 Using The LED Ammeter on
24V
04/99 46 You Have Mail In Your Letterbox
04/99 46 Relax Your Brain With Just Two
LEDs
04/99 47 Random LED Flasher
04/99 47 9V Battery Monitor
04/99 47 Simple Tester Checks Transistors & Continuity
05/99 74 Add Bass Harmony To A
Guitar
05/99 74 Add Remote Control To An Old
VCR
05/99 76 Low Frequency RF Preamp
05/99 76 Simple Metering Circuit For
Capacitance Meter
06/99 64 Logic Probe With 7-Segment
Display
06/99 64 Bistable Motor Switch
06/99 65 PC-Controlled Function Generator
06/99 65 Extra Reversing Light For
Older Cars
07/99 58 DTMF Decoder & 1Hz Timebase
07/99 58 Auto Nicad Charger With Float
07/99 59 Rev Limiter Modification For
Points Distributors
07/99 59 Mains-Powered Remote Control Tester
08/99 70 3-Digit Frequency Counter
08/99 70 Burglar Alarm For Continuous
Security
08/99 71 One Chip Audio Preamplifier
09/99 58 Dry Cell Battery Checking
09/99 58 Foolproof Audio Compressor
09/99 59 Surveillance Lights With
Buzzer
10/99 74 Audio Distribution Amplifier
10/99 74 Automotive Fuse Monitor
10/99 75 SLA Battery Charger
10/99 75 18W Fluorescent Light Inverter
Uses Ferrite Rod
11/99 22 Refinements To The PC Monitor Checker
11/99 23 Simple Christmas Light Tester
11/99 23 Simple Lights-On Warning
11/99 23 Negative Line Switching For
Daytime Lights For Cars
12/99 30 Reverse Battery Protection
With Low Voltage Drop
12/99 30 Power-On Muting For PC FM
Tuner
12/99 31 Backup Battery For AC-Powered Cordless Phones
01/99 92 Vintage Radio, Dec 1998
02/99 93 Turbo Timer, November 1998
03/99 92 Command Control Decoder,
May 1998
04/99 93 LED Fun, March 1999
05/99 93 Audio Signal Generator, February & March 1999
05/99 93 Electric Fence, April 1999
05/99 93 Multi-Spark CDI, Sept 1997
05/99 93 LED Ammeter, January 1999
05/99 93 Capacitance Meter, Feb 1999
05/99 93 Bass Cube Subwoofer, April
1999
06/99 93 Capacitance Meter, Feb 1999
06/99 93 Command Control Encoder,
February 1998
07/99 93 Sustain Unit For Electric Guitars, March 1998
08/99 93 Line Dancer, May 1999
08/99 93 Train Controller, April 1997
08/99 93 FM Radio Tuner, June 1999
09/99 93 Burglar Alarm, June 1999
09/99 93 A-V Transmitter, July 1999
09/99 93 Daytime Lights For Cars, August 1999
09/99 93 Line Dancer, May 1999
10/99 93 Voice Direct, September 1999
10/99 93 Autonomouse, Sept 1999
10/99 93 Surveillance Lights, Circuit
Notebook, September 1999
10/99 93 Switching Temperature Controller, August 1999
11/99 93 Daytime Running Lights, August 1999
11/99 93 PC Monitor Checker, August
1999
12/99 90 LED Christmas Tree,
November 1999
01/99 18 High Voltage Megohm Tester
01/99 32 Getting Going With BASIC
Stamp
01/99 54 A LED Bargraph Ammeter For
Your Car
01/99 62 Keypad Engine Immobiliser
02/99 24 Low Distortion Audio Signal
Generator; Pt.1
02/99 40 Command Control Decoder
For Model Railways
02/99 66 Digital Capacitance Meter
02/99 73 Remote Control Tester
02/99 84 LEDs Have Fun
03/99 14 Build A Digital Anemometer
03/99 24 3-Channel Current Monitor
With Data Logging
03/99 34 Simple DIY PIC Programmer
03/99 56 Audio Compressor
03/99 62 Low Distortion Audio Signal
Generator; Pt.2
04/99 24 High-Power Electric Fence
Controller
04/99 38 The Bass Cube Subwoofer
04/99 54 Programmable Thermostat/
Thermometer
04/99 66 Build An Infrared Sentry
Notes & Errata
01/99 92 Old PC Power Supply,
December 1998
01/99 92 Thermocouple Adaptor For
DMMs, December 1998
DECEMBER 1999 93
MARKET CENTRE
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ELECTRONIC/MECHANICAL DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION: we
offer a complete design service for
electronic and mechanical devices.
Most work is done in house and you
deal directly with the designers. No job
is too small and can be to prototype or
“turn key” stage, in one offs or for future
production. Simply send us an email at
vladimir<at>u030.aone.net.au with your
questions or requirements and we will
get back to you.
U.P.S. 240 VAC input 240 VAC 5kVA
output. Keeps appliances running after
mains shutdown. $2500 o.n.o. B/C only.
Phone (03) 5859 1099.
WEATHER STATIONS: Windspeed &
direction, inside temperature, outside
temperature & windchill. Records highs
& lows with time and date as they occur.
$420.00 complete plus sales tax if appli
cable. Optional rainfall and PC interface.
Used by Government Departments,
farmers, pilots, and weather enthusiasts.
Other models with barometric pressure,
humidity, dew point, solar radiation, UV,
leaf wetness, etc. Just phone, fax or
write for our FREE catalogue and price
list. Solar Flair/Ecowatch ph: (03) 5968
4863 fax: (03) 5968 5810, PO Box 18,
Emerald, Vic., 3782. ACN 006 399 480.
RAIN BRAIN AND DIGI-TEMP KITS: 8
station sprinkler controllers, 60 channel
temp monitor uses DS1820s over 500
metres. Has PC Data logging. Mantis
Micro Products,
http://www.home.aone.net.au/mantismp
TELEPHONE EXCHANGE SIMULATOR, SC February 1998. Test equipment without the cost of telephone lines.
Melbourne 9806 0110.
MOTOROLA 68HC11EVBU EVALUATION BOARD, manuals, 2 spare
68HC711E9 $250. New 16 x 2 LCD with
LED backlight, surplus from previous
project $15 each. Andrew (03) 9873
7919; and_wink<at>yahoo.com.au
FREE 4 Ch Automatic Event-Only
VCR Controller visit www.allthings.
com.au for details * VIDEO Transmitters from $142 * 120 mW IR LEDS *
FREE DIGITAL PC VIDEO RECORDER
- TIME LAPSE - MOTION DETECTION
Software with 4 Ch Capture Card * PIR
DETECTOR with concealed PINHOLE
Mono or DSP COLOUR Camera,
Microphone & Timer/Controller for
VCR - Lights - etc from $139 * BULLET
480 Line 0.05 lux SONY CCD or DSP
COLOUR from $132 * QUADS 4 Pix 1
screen from $256 HI-RES better than
SUPER-VHS Quality * Modules 32 x
32 from $76 COLOUR DSP Pinhole
from $155 with Tiny On-Board MICROPHONE * MINI CAMERAS 36 x 36 from
$85 - SONY CCD $102 - COLOUR
DSP $162 * DOME from $88 - SONY
CCD $107 - COLOUR DSP $164 *
Video BALUNS from $7 * DIY PAKS: 4
Cameras, Switcher & Supply from $499
- with 12" Monitor from $582 with MUX
for FULL SCREEN / RESOLUTION
RECORDING from $1209 * 4 COLOUR
CAMERAS, SWITCHER & POWER
SUPPLY from $807 - with COLOUR
QUAD 4 Pix 1 Screen from $1211 *
With MUX $2028 * COLOUR QUADS
from $512 * COLOUR DUPLEX MUX
from $1329 * 14" MONITORS from
$203 - with Inbuilt 4 Ch SWITCHER
from $236 * SEE-in-the-DARK CAMERAS & INFRARED 50 x 120 mW LED
ILLUMINATOR Kits from $19 * ANCILLARY EQUIPMENT * DISCOUNTS *
Ask for our Catalogue & New Enquiry
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T 08 9349 9413.
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Volt www.allthings.com.au
KITS KITS AND MORE KITS! Check
‘em out at www.ozitronics.com
CHEAP 200MHz TEKTRONIX SCOPE
THS-730A, “NEW” in box, factory warranty, $5899. Phone 0412 566100.
C COMPILERS: everything you need
to develop C and ASM software for
68HC08, 6809, 68HC11, 68HC12,
68HC16, 8051/52, 8080/85, 8086,
8096 or AVR: $155.00 each. Macro
Cross Assemblers and Disassemblers
Need prototype PC boards?
We have the solutions – we print electronics!
Four-day turnaround, less if urgent; Artwork from your own
positive or file; Through hole plating; Prompt postal service; 29
years technical experience; Inexpensive; Superb quality.
Printed Electronics, 12A Aristoc Rd,
Glen Waverley, Vic 3150.
Phone: (03) 9545 3722; Fax: (03) 9545 3561
Call Mike Lynch and check us out!
We are the best for low cost, small runs.
Satellite TV Reception
International satellite
TV reception in your
home is now affordable. Send for your free
info pack containing
equipment catalog, satellite lists, etc
or call for appointment to view. We
can display all satellites from 76.5F
to 180F.
Positions At Jaycar
We are often looking for enthusiastic staff
for positions in our retail stores and head
office at Rhodes in Sydney. A genuine
interest in electronics is a necessity. Phone
02 9743 5222 for current vacancies.
KITS-R-US
PO Box 314 Blackwood S.A.
Ph/fax 08 8270 3175
FMTX2A Universal Stereo Coder $49
FMTX2B 30mW Xtal Locked 100MHz Transmitter $49
FMTX1 1-3 Watt Free Running Transmitter $49
FMX1 200mW Full Broadcast Transmitter, built & tested $499
FM220 10-18 Watt FM BGY133 Philips Linear $499
FM1525 25 Watt Discrete Linear FM Band $499
FM2100 110 Watt Discrete Linear FM Band $699
FM3000 300 Watt Discrete Linear FM Band $1499
Philips 828E/A VHF Receiver Boards (6 metres) $9
AWA 721 VHF Receiver Boards (2 metres) $9
AWA 721 VHF transmitter boards 1 watt (2 metres) $19
Philips 323 UHF transmitter boards 500mW (70cm) $19
AEM 35 Watt Little Brick Audio Power Amp $15
Digi-125 200W RMS Audio Power Amp $39
CA Clipper Compiler, new in box $49
6dBd Gain Colinear FM Band Antenna $999
Roll Smart-1 FM Station Audio Processor $999
Free catalog on disk of discounted surplus components
Same day shipping, credit cards OK, circuits supplied.
SPECIAL STEAM
BOAT KITS $14
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS for all
magazine projects, then go to http://
www.cia.com.au/rcsradio RCS Radio
– Bexley (+61 2) 9587 3491.
AV-COMM P/L, 198 Condamine St,
Balgowlah, NSW 2093.
Tel: 02 9949 7417 or 9948 2667.
Fax: 9949 7095; www.avcomm.com.au
for above CPUs + 6800/01/03/05, 6502
and 68HC12 for $78. Debug monitors:
$78 for 6 CPUs. All compilers, XASMs
and monitors: $480. 8051/52 Simulator
(fast, now incl. 80C320): $78. Try the
C-FLEA Virtual Machine for small CPUs,
build a “C-Stamp”. Demo desk: FREE.
All prices + $5 p&p.
Atmel Flash CPU Programmer: Handles the 89Cx051, 89C5x and 89Sxx
series, and the new AVRs in both DIP
and PLCC44. Also does most 8-pin
EEPROMs. Includes socket for serial
ISP cable. $199, $37 tax, $10 p&p.
SOIC adaptors: 20-pin $90, 14-pin
$85, 8-pin $80. Credit cards accepted.
GRANTRONICS PTY LTD, PO Box 275,
Wentworthville 2145. Ph (02) 9896 7150;
Fax (02) 9631 1236; or Internet:
http://www.grantronics.com.au
NEW ROLA POTTED ISOCORE
TRANSFORMERS: 40 types suitable
valve equipment. Stamped self-addressed envelope for list. The Hill Homestead, Bingara, NSW 2404.
SOLAR PANELS: 120 watt $995.00,
80 watt $650.00, 60 watt $510.00, 40
watt $395.00 (all with 25 year guarantee). UNBREAKABLE PANELS:
64 watt $550.00, 42 watt $420.00,
32 watt $340.00, 11 watt $190.00, 5
watt $120.00, 1.25 watt $80.00. WIND
GENERATORS: 400 watt $950.00.
INVERTERS: sinewave inverters, invert-
Silvertone’s RC Receiver
Still the best little performer available!
Still only $129.50
AM or $149.50
FM. May be used
with most ppm
transmitters. This
and many other
radio control products available from:
Silvertone Electronics, PO Box 580,
Riverwood 2210.
Phone/Fax (02) 9533 3517.
www.silvertone.com.au
er/chargers, mod. Sinewave inverters,
call with requirements. AUSTRALIA
WIDE DELIVERY (Free on orders over
$500.00). TASMAN ENERGY: (03)
6362 3050 Fax (03) 6362 3054.
PC-CONTROLS: Receiver 144148MHz (PLL), DS2401 ID-Reader,
Temperature Recorder (DS1615), AF
Generators, Temperature measurement, I/O cards, Data Logging, ActiveX.
Ph/Fax (02) 9482 1565. http://www.
ar.com.au/~softmark
KIT ASSEMBLY
ANY KITS assembled/repaired: professional, speedy service. Phone Neville
Walker (07) 3857 2752.
DECEMBER 1999 95
14 Model Railway Projects
Shop soiled but
HALF PRICE!
Our stocks of this book are now limited.
All we have left are newsagents’ returns
which means that they may be slightly
shop soiled or have minor cover blemishes. Otherwise, they're undamaged and in
good condition.
SPECIAL CLEARANCE PRICE:
$3.95 + $3 P&P (Aust. & NZ)
This book will not be reprinted
Yes! Please send me _____ copies of 14 Model Railway Projects at the special price
of $A3.95 + $A3 p&p (p&p outside Aust. & NZ $A6). Enclosed is my cheque/money
order for $A__________ or please debit my
Bankcard
Visa Card
MasterCard
Card No.
Signature___________________________ Card expiry date______/______
Name
______________________________________________________
PLEASE PRINT
Street
______________________________________________________
Suburb/town_________________________________ Postcode_________
Send your order to: SILICON CHIP, PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097; or fax your
order to (02) 9979 6503; or ring (02) 9979 5644 and quote your credit card number
(Bankcard, Visa Card or MasterCard).
HELP SAVE THE NIGHT SKY!
We are losing our heritage of starry night skies. Poor, inefficient
outdoor lighting is causing glare and “light pollution”. This wastes
energy and increases greenhouse gas emissions.
You can help by joining SYDNEY OUTDOOR LIGHTING IMPROVEMENT SOCIETY (SOLIS). SOLIS aims to educate and inform about
quality outdoor lighting and its benefits. We also lobby councils, government and other bodies to promote good lighting practice. SOLIS meetings
are held third Monday night of each month at Sydney Observatory.
Individual membership is $20 pa. Donations are also welcome. Cheques payable
to “SOLIS c/- NSAS”, PO Box 214, West Ryde 2114.
Email: tpeters<at>pip.elm.mq.edu.au
96 Silicon Chip
Advertising Index
Acetronics....................................81
Altronics................................. 62-63
Av-Comm Pty Ltd.........................95
AWA Audio Products.................IFC
Clarke & Severn Electronics........81
Coffs Harbour Electronics............80
Computronics Corporation..........80
Convoy International................OBC
Dick Smith Electronics........... 14-17
EMC Technologies.......................80
Futurlec.........................................8
Harbuch Electronics....................29
Instant PCBs................................95
Jaycar .............................. 45-52,95
Kalex............................................79
Kits-R-Us.....................................95
Microgram Computers.......3,IBC,81
MicroZed Computers...................80
Oatley Electronics..........................9
Pinfold Health Services...............80
Printed Electronics...................... 95
Questronix...................................81
Resurrection Radio......................61
Robotic Education Products........80
RobotOz......................................81
Rocom Electronics.......................81
R.T.N............................................80
SC Binders..................................31
SC Computer Omnibus...............91
SC EFI Tech Special..................IBC
Silicon Chip Bookshop........... 86-87
SC Internet Service.....................69
Silicon Chip Subscriptions...........53
Silvertone Electronics..................95
Solar Flair/Ecowatch....................94
Speakerworks..............................80
Telelink Communications.............81
Truscott’s Electronic World...........30
Vass Electronics..........................80
Willis Communications................80
Zoom EFI Special........................11
_____________________________
PC Boards
Printed circuit boards for SILICON
CHIP projects are made by:
• RCS Radio Pty Ltd, 651 Forest
Rd, Bexley, NSW 2207. Phone (02)
9587 3491.
• Marday Services, PO Box 19-189,
Avondale, Auckland, NZ. Phone (09)
828 5730.
*Full details at www.tol.com.au
£
¤
¥
£
¤ ¦
¥ ¥
¡
¢
¢
¡
£¤
E & OE
All prices include sales tax MICROGRAM 1299
Come and visit our online catalogue & shop at www.mgram.com.au
Phone: (02) 4389 8444
Dealer Enquiries
Welcome
sales<at>mgram.com.au
info<at>mgram.com.au
Australia-Wide Express Courier (To 3kg) $10
FreeFax 1 800 625 777
We welcome Bankcard Mastercard VISA Amex
Unit 1, 14 Bon Mace Close, Berkeley Vale NSW 2261
Vamtest Pty Ltd trading as MicroGram Computers ACN 003 062 100
Fax: (02) 4389 8388
Web site:
www.mgram.com.au
FreeFax 1 800 625 777
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