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Once oscilloscopes were heavy and clumsy to handle but over the years
they have got smaller and smaller. The latest development in this field has just
arrived: a digital storage oscilloscope in a handy slim housing, scarcely longer
than a pencil and about as thick as your thumb!
Despite its small size, its performance can match that of a service oscilloscope.
With a sampling rate of up to 20MS/s even signals in microprocessor circuits
can be recorded. Using its voltmeter function, numeric AC and DC voltages can
be easily measured.
The osziFOX has many uses. It can be used for taking measurements in amplifiers, digital circuits, telephone installations, hobby electronics, production-line
tests, servicing and on-the-spot measuring.
With the supplied software for DOS and Windows (3.1x & Win95) recorded
signals can be shown simultaneously on a PC screen using the supplied interface cable. For documentation purposes, the recorded signals can be saved to
disk or printed.
Technical Specifications
Sample rates:
50ns, 100ns, 0.5µs, 1µs, 5µs, 10µs,
50µs, 0.1ms, 0.5ms, 1ms
Input ranges:
1V, 10V, 100V
No of channels:
1, 1MΩ AC/DC coupled
Trigger:
Internal, external
Resolution:
6 bit
Buffer size:
Voltmeter
Display
Supply voltage:
PC connection:
Accessories:
128 byte
AC, DC
16 x 32 backlit LCD
9-13V DC <at> 13mA (cable supplied)
D9 to serial port via supplied cable
Cables, documentation and software
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Contents
Vol.12, No.7; July 1999
FEATURES
4 Tiny, Tiny Spy Planes
Is it a fly or is it really a miniature aircraft? – by Bob Young
10 Sydney’s Superstorm
Australia’s most costly natural disaster – by Michael Bath
67 SPECIAL OFFER: Subscribe At 1998 Prices
Beat the magazine price rise – and GST – by subscribing now
80 CLIO: PC-Driven Loudspeaker Testing
Low-cost system turns your PC into a professional test centre
– by Ross Tester
Tiny, Tiny Spy Planes – Page 4.
PROJECTS TO BUILD
18 Build The Dog Silencer
Fed up with the barking dog next door? This could be the answer to your
prayers – by Branco Justic
26 A 10µH to 19.99mH Inductance Meter
It uses readily available parts and has a 4-digit LCD – by Rick Walters
Build A Dog
Silencer – Page 18.
36 An Audio-Video Transmitter
Use it to monitor a surveillance camera or to transmit your VCR’s signal to
another TV set – by John Clarke
60 Programmable Ignition Timing Module For Cars; Pt.2
All the installation and programming details – by Anthony Nixon
72 An X-Y Table With Stepper Motor Control; Pt.3
Building the Z axis – by Rick Walters & Ken Ferguson
84 The Hexapod Robot
Microcontroller fun: build a weird six-leg walker – by Ross Tester
SPECIAL COLUMNS
42 Serviceman’s Log
TV servicing can be frustrating – by the TV Serviceman
68 Vintage Radio
A mainland Chinese radio receiver from the 1960s – by Rodney Champness
DEPARTMENTS
2
25
53
56
58
Publisher’s Letter
Mailbag
Product Showcase
Electronics Showcase
Circuit Notebook
67
91
93
94
96
10µH to 19.99mH Inductance
Meter – Page 26.
Video Transmitter –
Page 36.
Subscriptions Form
Ask Silicon Chip
Notes & Errata
Market Centre
Advertising Index
JULY 1999 1
PUBLISHER'S LETTER
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Production Manager
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Technical Staff
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Rick Walters
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Phone (02) 9979 5644
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Bob Young
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2 Silicon Chip
Collie’s new coalburning power station
On Friday, 4th June 1999, Australia’s newest coal burning power station was formally
opened at Collie in Western Australia. When
all of the current issues are considered, it
should be the last of its kind. There is no excuse for building any more of these dinosaurs.
It matters not that Collie will be the cheapest
to operate of any coal-fired power station in
Western Australia, its capital cost means that
it should probably not have been built at all.
Its capacity is 300 megawatts, it cost $830
million, and it adds just 10% to WA’s grid. On those figures, it appears that
the Collie power station cost more than twice the price of equivalent power
stations in other states and a good deal more than the cost of a wind-power
generating facility.
As a basis of comparison, the average capital cost of recent coal-burning
power stations in other Australian states is around $1200 per kilowatt. The
cost of the wind-power facility at Crookwell (featured in our January 1999
issue) was around $2000 per kilowatt). However, a wind-power station burns
no coal or any other fuel.
In any case, you would think that a better option for a new thermal power
station in Western Australia would have been a gas-fired system. These days,
gas-fired combined-cycle power stations are capable of thermal efficiencies
as high as 60%, they have benign combustion products, particularly when
compared to coal-fired stations and they leave no huge scar on the landscape,
in the form of an open cut mine, ash dumps or cooling towers. And this is
without a mention of greenhouse gas emissions.
I am also of the opinion that the cost of coal extracted from open-cut mines
does not take into account the cost of reinstatement of the environment once
mining has stopped. In fact, when you think about it, it’s difficult to see how
environmentalists would let any new open-cut coal mine start operation.
Mind you, with the low export prices being obtained for Australia’s coal
these days, the trend to close rather than start mines will continue.
But the most obvious power station option for Western Australia is not
a gas-fired one but one based on solar panels. Maybe 10 years ago such an
option was not viable but with the advances in solar technology which are
forecast for the next five years or so, any future large power station project
must seriously consider the solar option. Australia can certainly make the
vast number of panels which would be required and I have no doubt we
could also make all the inverter and control gear required.
In fact, if governments seriously took up the solar option we could become
a world leader in this technology. Let’s do it.
Leo Simpson
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JULY 1999 3
Are you absolutely certain that the
fly sniffing around your lunch
really is a fly?
Or is it really Big
Brother in disguise?
Outrageous? Impossible?
Well, no. It could
happen – sooner than
you think!
By BOB YOUNG
Micro
Aerial
Vehicles
I
N THE RECENT Bruce Willis’ scifi movie “The Fifth Element”,
there is a scene in which the baddies send a remote sensor disguised
as a cockroach to check on matters at
the nerve centre.
This poor little creature is abruptly
sent to robotic cockroach heaven as
a result of being suddenly swatted –
scratch one multi-million dollar hitech toy. It was a funny scene and the
audience chuckled at such crazy stuff.
But is it so crazy?
In 1992 the American Defence
Advanced Research Projects Agency
(DARPA) held a workshop on future
technologies for military operations
at Rand Corporation, the initiators of
the micro air vehicle (MAV) concept.
T h e n - s e n i o r- s c i e n t i s t B r u n o
Aug-enstien led a panel on micro
4 Silicon Chip
vehicles, including aircraft systems
ranging in size from a hummingbird
down to less than 1cm in diameter.
Yes, 1cm; much smaller than a 5c
piece!
Rand published a widely-circulated
report on the work in 1994. The Lincoln Laboratory was initially sceptical
but its own research also concluded
that MAVs were becoming feasible.
What then is an MAV?
DARPA’s own definition alludes to a
class of significantly smaller vehicles
than the traditional UAV (Unmanned
Aerial Vehicle).
An arbitrary size limit of 150mm
has been imposed and to meet the
definition an aircraft must not exceed
this limit in length, breadth or height.
To fully appreciate the quantum
reduction in size, compare the proposed 150mm vehicle to the smallest
UAV in current service. This is the US
Naval Research Laboratory’s “Sender”, a conventional monoplane with
a wing-span of 1.2 metres, weighing
4.5kg and featuring a range of 160 kilometres. From that, an MAV represents
a startling step!
DARPA held an MAV feasibility
workshop in November 1995, a briefing to industry in March 1996 and a
user and development workshop in
October 1996. These were mainly
paper exercises with little to show in
the way of hardware.
The main thrust of all of this from a
military point of view is to provide the
individual soldier with battlefield surveillance equipment, far in advance
of that which currently exists. These
aircraft must fit easily into a soldier’s
battlefield pack with little trade-off
in food and ammunition and require
only one man for launch, control and
recovery.
Thus the aircraft must be autonomous in operation and hence it will
not fly like a model aeroplane. These
devices must perform reliably in the
hands of unskilled operators under
very trying conditions.
The last thing a soldier in combat
needs is to be totally engrossed in
controlling a twitchy little brute of an
aircraft. Auto stabilisation is therefore
a major consideration in the design.
I n 1 9 9 7 , D A R PA s t a r t e d a
US$35-million, four-year effort to
develop and demonstrate affordable
MAVs. The agency wants aircraft with
a maximum dimension of 152.4mm
(6 inches), range of up to 10km and
speeds of up to 80km/h for missions
that span from 20 minutes to 2 hours.
The development programs are
aimed at producing vehicles for operations in three main environments:
relatively open terrain, urban areas
and jungle.
These MAVs are to be deployed
by hand, by munitions launch or
from larger aircraft. Missions would
include reconnaissance, targeting,
placing sensors, communications relay and sensing dangerous substances.
They are viewed as one-use, one-way
missions.
Stealth is to be a major factor in the
design and thus electric propulsion is
favoured in this regard.
The hope is that such tiny surveillance vehicles will not attract any
attention or better still, be mistaken
for birds or insects.
In 1997, DARPA’s Tactical Technology Office awarded nine Phase 1,
US$100,000 small business innovative research contracts to either pursue system development or a specific
technology and in so doing signalled
that the chase is on.
Are there any readers out there
that hold any doubts that once the
money starts to flow, answers will
soon follow?
The awarded contracts cover a variety of projects which include a hovering flying saucer called “Hyperav”,
a 1.4f/lb thrust turbine, about 76mm
long and 43mm in diameter, possibly
for use in “Hyperav”, and a solid
oxide fuel cell for MAVs which will
provide sufficient energy to power a
Photo 1: that’s not a giant butterfly, it’s a regular-sized Monarch with a wingspan
of about 70mm or so. In front are the aircraft receiver and processor with the
video camera at the bottom. The devices on the right are tiny (3mm diameter)
actuator motors. On the left is the propulsion motor.
50 gram MAV for several hours as well
as providing power for the payload.
Ornithopters (flapping wing aircraft) are included in the list, as the
problems of Reynolds numbers in
extremely small aircraft steer development in that direction. The Reynolds
number is an expression of the wing
chord (width) to airspeed over the
wing. Reynolds numbers reduce as
the size goes down.
Readers who have followed previous radio control articles will
understand only too well just how
large a part Reynolds numbers play in
successful operation of aerodynamic
devices.
Flapping wings allow an increase in
Reynolds numbers without increasing
the size of the vehicle. The faster the
wings flap, the higher the Reynolds
numbers. The 150mm disc shown in
Photo 2 has a Reynolds number of
approximately 100,000.
Urban and jungle areas tend to require hovering aircraft and orni-thopters are one way of achieving this
result. Flapping wings also add to the
stealth of the aircraft, as they become
more difficult to distinguish from
birds. Investigations are also under
way into the use of piezoelectric
transducers that would resonate thin
metallic structures that will actuate
the wings in ornithopters.
Miniature engines (both internal
combustion and turbine) and waste
heat recovery devices are also included in the list of Phase 1 grants. There
is absolutely no room for waste or
inefficiency in these machines.
An interesting project grant is for
the development of a shirt-button size
turbine that will be made of ceramic
and produce 13 grams of thrust. The
turbine in the engine will spin at
1,000,000 rpm! This will power a
50-gram MAV.
One of the most serious problems
facing the ultra-miniature aircraft is
that of video power. High resolution
and frame rate make it easier for an
unskilled operator to fly the aircraft
but that requires more power for the
greater bandwidth.
As the size of the aircraft shrinks,
propulsive power and hence battery
capacities go down but the video
power required remains the same.
Ultimately, continuing the shrinkJULY 1999 5
age means that all that is left is the
video power source, a ridiculous
situation. Yet even here, experimental
work is already being undertaken into
beaming microwave power into the
vehicle. However, all of the foregoing
is in the future. Let us now look at
some of the more practical considerations affecting MAVs.
Practical MAVs
AeroVironment Inc has made the
most hardware progress to date, with
one 6-inch disc achieving 22-minute
flights.
Their Phase 1 study concluded that
a disc was the best configuration for
the open terrain option since it gave
the most wing area and a relatively
good lift to drag ratio.
At first AeroVironment were
achieving only a few seconds for each
flight, then 10 seconds, a minute and
finally, using NiCd cells, 2.5 minutes.
The 22-minute flights were achieved
using experimental high-energy lithium batteries costing US$200 each.
Photo 2 shows one of the AeroVironment discs whilst Photo 3 shows
a mock-up of a projected disc several
years from realisation. A novel approach to control actuation is with
the use of electrostrictive polymer
artificial muscles. These would actuate the controls directly and change
their length in direct proportion to
the applied voltage.
The disc shown in photo 2 uses a
simple UHF receiver to give a small
antenna size and the combined weight
of the receiver with command processor and four actuators is under 3
grams. However, in a disc only three
channels are required (throttle, pitch
and roll) and this installation comes
in at 2 grams.
The actuators use “smoovy” motors
made by RMB Miniature Bearings
in Switzerland and are amongst the
world’s smallest.
They weigh a mere 0.35 grams
each and a 25:1 reduction gearbox
is available which boosts the weight
by 0.5 gram!
Sufficient power is available from
the geared motor to drive the control
surfaces directly via pushrods. The actuators measure 10.16mm x 3.05mm
and are brushless. They move the
controls in about 60 discrete steps via
the command processor.
The discs shown in Photos 2 and 3
use direct drive motors in which the
6 Silicon Chip
motor shaft is connected directly to
the propeller but this is a very inefficient method.
By adding a reduction gearbox to
the motor, larger diameter propellers
with better Reynolds numbers may be
fitted and the motor runs faster and
uses less current. This also means that
the efficiency of the whole system is
better as the endurance of any given
size of battery is improved as the
current is reduced.
However MAV designers are not
as concerned with endurance as
they are with control, stabilisation
and navigation. AeroVironment has
built a complete navigation package
that weighs 4.5 grams and consumes
negligible power. It consists of two
gyros (1.8g), a compass (2g) and an
anemometer (0.5g). The black & white
camera is less than 25mm long and
weighs 2.2g.
Such is the state of the art at present.
What of the future?
Future developments
By March 2000, the disc is to carry
a colour camera, operate at 3km, have
a 20-minute endurance and perform
automatic flight to way points with
dead reckoning navigation using airspeed and magnetic compass. This
requires about 10 times more effective
TV transmitter power to triple the
video range.
Various tricks will be used to compensate for this increase in power by
using lower frame rates and resolution
when possible, steering the ground
antenna for higher gain and commanding less power if there is excess
signal strength at the TV receiver.
Assuming the MAV quest is successful and there is every reason to believe that it will be, we could shortly
see the following scenario played out:
“The small speck in the sky approaches in virtual silence, unnoticed
by the large gathering of soldiers
below. In flight, its tiny size and
considerable agility evade all but
happen-stance recognition. After
hovering for a few short seconds, it
perches on a fifth floor window sill,
observing the flow of men and machines on the streets below.
“Several kilometres away, the platoon leader watches the action on
his wrist monitor. He sees his target
and sends the signal. The tiny craft
swoops down on the vehicle, alighting
momentarily on the roof. It senses
the trace of a suspected chemical
agent and deploys a small tagging
Photo 2: this disc plane is about 150mm in diamater and can carry a television
camera aloft with a link back to earth. Power is required not only to launch and
keep the craft flying but also to keep the video system working.
Table 1: AeroVironment Proposed
150mm Disc Micro Air Vehicle
•
•
•
Line-of-sight operation within 1km radius
10 minute duration
Black & white video payload
Aircraft Subsystem Weight Peak Power
(grams)
(mW)
Lithium battery
25
0
Propulsion motor
7
4000
Gearbox
1
0
Propeller
2
0
Airframe
4
0
Control actuators
1
200
Receiver & CPU
1
50
Downlink transmitter 3
1200
B&W video camera
2
150
Interface electronics
1
50
Roll rate gyro
1
60
Magnetic compass
1
180
TOTAL 50
5890
device, attaching it to the vehicle.
Just seconds later it is back in the
sky, vanishing down a narrow alley.
Mission accomplished....”
(From the introduction to the DARPA web site, www.darpa.mil/tto/mav/
mav_auvsi.html)
This is not science fiction but a serious military aim being pursued with
relentless determination by groups
scattered all over the world.
Before scoffing too loudly, spare a
thought for the dreamers who have
given us notebook computers more
powerful than mainframes of 10 years
ago or the dreamers who put a model
size aeroplane on a solo flight across
the Atlantic, as featured in SILICON
CHIP last month.
We dream and so it will be!
The predicted range of 21st century conflict has influenced and
motivated the new development. The
shift toward a more diverse array of
military operations, often involving
small teams of soldiers operating in
non-traditional environments (eg,
urban centres) is already more than
evident in post cold war experience.
MAVs are envisioned as an asset at
the platoon level or below. They will
give the individual soldier on-demand
information about his surroundings,
resulting in greater effectiveness and
fewer casualties.
Probably the most commonly identified scenario for this type of vehicle
is the classic over-the-hill reconnais-
Average Power
(mW)
0
4000
0
0
0
200
50
300
50
50
60
180
2890
sance mission in which the MAV ranges out some 10km,
loiters for an hour or so and sends back real-time images
of the terrain below and all of the surprises it may or may
not hold in store.
Allied to this type of mission is the use by road transport
in which an MAV is sent along the road ahead to locate an
ambush, downed bridges or road-blocks.
However the most dangerous of all conflicts are the
house-to-house fighting undertaken in urban situations.
Here the MAV will come into its own.
While the previous missions could (and actually are)
undertaken by more conventional sized UAVs, only a hovering MAV could scout ahead in urban canyons or more
demanding still, enter buildings to give the individual
soldier a look at what is inside.
The savings in casualties could be enormous. Thus
there are great benefits to be derived from the quest for
SC
the successful MAV.
Acknowledgments:
AeroVironment Inc. (web site www.aerovironment.com)
Aviation Week and Space Technology. June 8th 1998.
DARPA web site. www.darpa.mil
NICAD
BOOST
BATTERY
GPS RECEIVER
AND "X" ANTENNA
ELEVON
ACTUATOR
RECEIVE/TRANSMIT
CIRCUITRY AND
ANTENNAS
AIRSPEED
AIRSPEED
SENSOR
SENSOR
X,Y,Z,
X,Y,Z, AXIS
AXIS
MAGNETOMETERS
MAGNETOMETERS
LITHIUM
LITHIUM
BATTERIES
BATTERIES
PITCH,
PITCH, ROLL
ROLL
PIEZO
PIEZO GYROS
GYROS
Photo 3: a mock-up of an autonomous MAV fitted with a video camera and
downlink. The theory is fine but this MAV is several years from reality.
JULY 1999 7
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POST TO: SILICON CHIP Publications, PO Box 139, Collaroy NSW, Australia 2097.
OR CALL (02) 9979 5644 & quote your credit card details; or FAX TO (02) 9979 6503
December
JULY 1999 9
Wednesday, April 14:
Sydney’s
Superstorm
By Michael Bath*
At SILICON CHIP, we have something of a fascination about lightning.
Perhaps it’s the immense amount of energy involved.
Perhaps it’s because of the damage we’ve seen it cause.
Perhaps it’s because it IS fascinating!
It’s
It's when the lightning is a little close to home, though, that
fascination can turn to fear! This is the story of the “big one” which
didn’t get away – officially Australia’s most costly natural disaster.
O
ur fascination pales into insignificance when compared
to some “storm chasers”: amateurs (mostly) who study storms – and
all their components – with amazing
dedication. Often they’re more up-todate than the official Weather Bureau!
Michael Bath is one such storm
chaser. We’ve seen his work before
in SILICON CHIP. Michael not only
chases storms, he photographs them.
He writes about them. He follows their
progress as closely as he can. He has
even set up a website dedicated to
them (see separate panel).
Which brings us to early in the day
of April 14, 1999. Michael takes up
the story:
In the hours before the storm which
hit Sydney, the email, internet connections and phones of the storm chasers
were buzzing.
The weather bureau issued no warnings – it was as if they missed the event
completely despite being contacted
with very reliable information (as you
will read later).
The day started out with a casual
10 Silicon Chip
comment that “maybe a storm is possible today”. Some altocumulus cloud
about, a moisture haze and a forecast
of a thundery day for Canberra were
the reason for this outlook.
By late morning small cumulus
clouds had developed in a line from
the far southwest towards the coast
south of Sydney. But by early afternoon some were starting to spread out
as altocumulus – not usually a good
sign for thunderstorm development.
One or two of the larger clouds
actually glaciated (meaning they took
on a classic, towering anvil shape) but
with very low tops, probably no more
than 4-5,000 metres but these were
persisting somewhat (something I
had observed a few times in the past,
but I did not make the connection at
the time).
Altocumulus began to dominate
and it became mostly cloudy during
the middle of the afternoon. The only
sign that something may occur later
was more crisp cumulus congestus
(large cumulus cloud masses which
grow higher than they are wide – a
classic sign of a cloud mass developing into a storm) way to the south,
just visible under the altocumulus in
Sydney.
Around 4pm it became apparent
that the congestus to the far south was
certainly looking promising and worth
keeping an eye on.
I suspected that some storms might
get going very close to the coast south
of Sydney and then remain out to sea,
but perhaps a lightning show would
result.
By 5pm I could see that a thunderstorm was gathering strength about
80km SSE. Having a good feel for
locations/distance of storms, I made
a mental note that it appeared to be
over land in the southern Wollongong
area. It would most likely just move
offshore and that would be it.
However, the tower had a very
strong vertical appearance (on the NW
flank that I could see), indicating a
very strong updraft and the potential
for severe weather.
I wanted to check the radar to give
me an indication of any other develop-
matically on its NW flank as the storm
edged over the coast, indicating that it
could clip the coast again to the north
– over Sydney’s southern suburbs.
“The bureau was warned. . .”
The classic anvil-shaped thunderhead towering sometimes thousands of metres
above the surrounding cloud. This is caused by the updraft of moisture-laden
air currents in the cell. When the moisture condenses in the cold higher levels,
the air current cannot support it and it falls as rain. If it freezes, it can fall as
hail, although most of it melts before it reaches the ground.
ment and to determine the direction of
movement of the storm but didn’t get
to see it until after 6.30pm. Lightning
could now be seen about 50km SE at
this stage.
From a website I subscribe to, I
downloaded the latest Sydney radar
images covering the period 5.30pm to
6.30pm local time.
Then I received my email. A message on the aussie-weather mailing list
reported that a severe storm had just
been through the Shellharbour area
(about 100km south of Sydney) and
that golf ball sized hail was reported
to the local radio station.
The storm looked very severe with
lowerings, or parts of the clouds jutting out significantly lower than the
rest or the base of clouds, almost to
the ground.
The system was back-building dra-
The email author said that he had
in fact phoned the Bureau of Meteorology at 6pm to report the storm, only
to be greeted with scepticism. If we
could see what was happening, why
couldn’t the Bureau?
Obviously he was dismissed as
an unreliable spotter as no severe
thunderstorm advice or warning was
issued (although one was belatedly
issued at 10.20pm, long after the storm
had passed).
By 7pm it was obvious on both
radar and visually (my home is about
40km from the coast) that the storm
was moving directly NNE and heading straight into the southern Sydney
suburbs. In fact by 7pm there was
already maximum reflectivity on the
radar and the storm was over the Royal
National Park on Sydney’s southern
outskirts, heading towards Botany Bay
and Sydney Airport.
Lightning was frequent to the
south-east but it seemed that a dead
cell or other cloud was to the west of
the storm, blocking the view of any
lightning bolts.
I could however see the glowing
outline of the storm tops and reflections around the rest of the sky.
Visually it continued like this until
Left: thermal image of the storm taken by the NOAA12
satellite at 7.13UCT (9.13pm Sydney time); courtesy of
CSIRO. Above is the radar image taken at around the same
time with the storm sited directly over Sydney’s eastern
suburbs, which copped the brunt of the damage; courtesy
Bureau of Meterology.
JULY 1999 11
Everyone has a story...
by James Crouch, Rushcutters Bay.
It was about 7:35pm. I had about
two minutes warning – I could hear
a distant roar but didn’t know what
it was at first. It just got louder and
louder.
Things started breaking as soon
as the first isolated hail stones began
falling: neighbour’s windows, roof
tiles, that sort of thing.
The roar was quite loud but still
distant. For a moment it sounded
like “things” were falling out of the
sky and I actually feared for a few
seconds that it was debris, not ice!!
The tiles on my roof were taking a
pounding, ceiling plaster was flaking
off all over (I guess a combination of
hail and tile impacts).
There was nothing I could do and
I didn’t have a view, so I went down
to the street and sat under shelter
with a few neighbours and watched
as 70mm hailstones slammed into
the footpath.
I couldn’t see much in the way of
cloud but there was lightning every
2-3 seconds.
Bayswater Rd, empty of traffic,
was covered in a 50mm layer of ice
(ice was still piled up in corners 3
hours later).
The heaviest hail lasted about
10-15 minutes and then it rained
(showered, whatever) until 2am-ish.
That was the killer.
I drilled a few holes in my ceiling
where it was sagging the worst (and
until I ran out of pots and pans) and
then checked my neighbours.
I wasn’t the worst; the girl across
the landing had a 2-3 litre per minute
flow from the light in her kitchen for
a while, and sundry other leaks of
various flow rates.
I climbed up into the ceiling: there
were at least 300 tiles shattered or
cracked; you could see the sky all
over the place.
Once they’d isolated her power
and we’d drilled holes in other peoples ceilings, I went and checked
my car. It was a Daihatsu Feroza.
The bonnet was trashed – 20-odd
4-5cm dents and one of the rear side
windows was smashed – with a bit
of resultant water damage.
Not so bad. . . I haven’t got onto
the insurance company yet so I have
no idea when it’ll have a chance to
get fixed up. Meantime I guess that
I’m up for driving on storm chases!
I had a pleasant night’s sleep on
cushions in the hallway – that was
the only place that didn’t have leaks!!
just as in Sydney. It can also make the
storm rotate and is the phenomenen
which also breeds tornados.
In most thunderstorms, the updrafts
of air reach a point where the water
and ice they contain cannot be supported and they collapse, dumping
their rain and sometimes ice (as hail)
in the process.
A second storm
Towards 9pm, fresh southeast
winds spread in with a layer of strato-cumulus, blocking the storm as it
edged out over the northern beaches.
At about the same time the first reports of giant hail began to filter in
and the discussions on the ’net got
quite excited.
Also at this time, another storm with
hail passed through the eastern suburbs on a similar track to the supercell.
Later (between 10pm and 11pm)
a storm with some intense cloud-toground strokes spread through the
western suburbs dumping some heavy
rain but no hail. Brief blackouts occurred including at my place at 11pm.
It wasn’t until the next day that the
analysis of the day’s observations and
the radar clearly showed the significance of the event.
The radar patterns were classic
supercell from about 6.30pm onwards
with a clearly defined V-notch most of
the time. The V-notch is a particular
shape of the radar image on the screen,
well known to meteorologists as an
indication of a very severe storm.
Almost a tornado
8pm though was now much closer
and bigger.
Radar showed the most intense part
of the storm was right over the eastern suburbs and city and would have
been smashing these areas with hail
officially measured to 9cm diameter,
with larger stones probable.
Just after 8pm the storm became
much more spectacular from my
vantage point to its west – continuous
cloud to cloud lightning, cloud to air,
and cloud to ground, though I could
only see the top half of these.
It coincided with a rapid propagation and development to the NW of
the main thunderstorm, making the
whole structure visible with each
lightning flash.
Is it a supercell?
With a boiling rear flank, a rock
12 Silicon Chip
solid backshearing anvil punching
well through the tropopause and the
continuous lightning, I soon came to
realise this was no ordinary storm. In
fact, it looked to me like the western
flank of a supercell thunderstorm.
In fact, after spending some time
taking lightning photographs I made
the remark that I thought it was a supercell and wondered what damage
had occured or was currently occurring in the most densely populated
parts of Sydney.
A supercell thunderstorm is fairly
rare – perhaps one a year or so in the
Greater Sydney area – and occurs
when the updrafts and downdrafts of
air currents within the storm occur at
the same time due to windshear. This
makes the storm self-sustaining.
A supercell is much more likely to
do a lot of damage over a wide area –
It was disturbing to see a most prominent hook echo on the radar screen
when the storm was right over the
eastern suburbs, though no damaging
winds were experienced there.
A hook echo on the screen can indicate precipitation actually wrapping
around a meso-cyclone. Imagine if a
large tornado had touched down as
well!
The storm tracked to the NNE and
was well defined for almost four
hours. Contrary to some early reports,
there was no cell splitting or another
storm suddenly developing closer to
Sydney – the one storm cell just propagated on its NW flank continuously.
The early afternoon observation of
persisting low topped glaciated cells
has preceded supercell development
on other occasions.
As at 11th May, the total insured
damages bill is in excess of $A1.4
billion, now making it the most costly
natural disaster in Australian history,
surpassing the Newcastle earthquake
(1989) and Tropical Cyclone Tracy in
Darwin (1974).
Although the time of year and the
area affected by the storm is unusual
for a supercell, many hailstorms with
similar-sized hail (but officially recorded hail sizes slightly smaller than
this event) have occurred in Sydney,
even in recent years.
Most notable were the supercell
hailstorm of Sunday 18th March 1990
affecting the western suburbs and the
supercell of Monday 21st January
1991 affecting the northern suburbs.
However, insured loses for these
two events are far lower than for the
April 1999 event.
Just after 8pm
the storm
became much
more
spectacular
from my
vantage point
to its west –
continuous
cloud to cloud,
cloud to air,
and cloud to
ground lightning, though I
could only see
the top half of
the latter.
* Michael Bath is the editor of the severe
weather newsletter, “Storm News” and has a
huge library of storm and lightning photo-graphy. He also conducts a website dedicated
to the subject of severe weather at www.
australiansevereweather.simplenet.com
On this site there are links to many other
sites on similar subjects.
Radar Image courtesy Bureau of Meterology.
Satellite image courtesy CSIRO.
Tracking the Storm by Tracking the Lightning
Regular S ILICON C HIP readers
would be aware of the LPATS Lightning Positioning and Tracking System (see the article in the November
1996 issue).
As you might expect, Kattron's
Ken Ticehurst had been monitoring
the storm earlier in the day, just as
had Michael Bath.
“We could see the storm's path
bearing down on Sydney and were
amazed that the weather bureau
didn’t issue any warnings,” said Ken.
“In the overall scheme of things,
though, this thunderstorm didn’t
look all that big because most of the
lightning was CC strokes”.
LPATS works by detecting the
electromagnetic radiation of a cloudto-ground (CG) lightning stroke
between 2 and 450kHz.
Some cloud-to-cloud (CC) strokes
are also detected but as their radiation is mainly in the VHF range, the
detection range is much less.
In most thunderstorms, CCs are
usually 90% of the lightning activity. In this storm, with all the hail, it
may well have been higher. Certainly
from the SILICON CHIP offices (close
to the coast in northern Sydney) the
impression was overwhelmingly CC,
even with the numerous CG strokes
witnessed (actually CW or cloud-towater because most of the activity
was by this time off shore).
The lightning display, by the way,
was rated by SILICON CHIP staff as
easily the most spectacular they had
ever seen).
But in terms of CG activity this
storm was not all that ferocious –
with around 600 strokes per hour at
its peak (11.30pm).
At 8.30pm, about the peak of damage in the Eastern Suburbs, it was
recording 120 strokes per hour.
We have seen thousands of CG
strokes per hour (over a greater area)
in other storms. (The November 1996
article shows a graph of lightning
strokes in Central NSW during November 1995 peaking at more than
3800 mainly C-G strokes per hour!)
The map above shows one of the
lightning stroke “maps” plotted by
Kattron during the storm.
The colour bars on the images
represent % of strokes in 10 minute
intervals from the time shown (top
left of each image), starting with
gray.
Each screen in the full series
represents 1 hour.
SC
JULY 1999 13
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
Design by BRANCO JUSTIC*
Build the
Dog Silencer
. . . and quieten that noisy mutt
Fed up with the barking dog next door? This
Dog Silencer circuit could be the answer to
your prayers. It gives the dog a retaliatory
blast of high-frequency noise that’s beyond
the limits of human hearing.
Barking dogs are one of the worst
sources of noise pollu
tion in Australia. They cause more arguments
between neighbours than any other
problem and are by far responsible
for the majority of noise complaints
to local councils.
18 Silicon Chip
One thing that’s particularly galling
to near neighbours is the selective
deafness of inconsiderate dog owners.
They couldn’t care less how much
distress their dog causes and simply
ignore complaints. In other cases, the
owners are unaware of the problem
because their dog barks only while
they are away.
This device will let you get back at
your neighbour’s barking dog without
anyone else knowing about it. When
the dog barks, you press a button on
the front panel and it gives the dog
a blast of high-intensity frequency-modulated ultrasonic sound. This
lasts for as long as you hold the button
down.
Because this sound will be somewhere in the 20-31kHz range, humans
cannot hear it but most dogs can.
That’s because dogs are able to hear
much higher frequencies than humans
– unless, of course, the dog is old or
deaf, in which case the Dog Silencer
will have no effect.
The barking loop
So why does the dog stop barking?
We’re not too sure but one theory is
that the sudden sound burst interrupts
the “barking loop” (good term, that)
that some dogs get themselves into.
You’ll probably be familiar with this
problem – the dog starts barking and
doesn’t know how to stop. Basically,
the Dog Silencer is an attention-getting device; it distracts the dog and he
forgets to continue barking.
Another theory is that the sound
burst serves as a sharp reprimand.
And of course, if the sound is unpleasant, the dog will quickly learn
to modify its behaviour. Think of this
as being a high-tech equivalent to the
time-honoured “shaddup-barkin-yermangey-so-and-so” bellow out the
bedroom window at 4 o’clock in the
morning.
The real beauty of this device is that
your inconsiderate neighbour doesn’t
know that you’re reprimanding his
equally inconsiderate mutt.
Mind you, such subtlety is not for
one person that we know. Fed up
with the barking dog next door, he
phoned his soundly-sleeping neighbour at three in the morning. And his
response to his neighbour’s complaint
at being phoned at that hour was an
equally subtle “well if your dog’s
keeping me awake, I don’t see why
Warning!
The output from this unit is
extremely loud and could seriously damage your hearing
if you get close to the tweeters
while it is operating. This warning applies even though the unit
operates beyond the range of
human hearing.
For this reason, be sure to
install the tweeters in a location
where they cannot cause hearing damage and observe the
precautions detailed in the text
when testing the unit.
you shouldn’t also be awake”.
Of course, we don’t claim that this
unit will be effective on all dogs. If
the dog is deaf or just plain stupid,
nothing works unless the owner is
prepared to do something. Then again,
it might just depend on the breed of
dog or its temperament.
What we do say is that the Dog
Silencer will deter many dogs from
barking, provided they are not too far
away. It’s a bit hard to set a precise
value for the effective range but it’s
probably somewhere around 30 metres. It certainly wouldn’t stop a dog
that’s barking at the other end of the
street, for example.
Roo scarer
One report we’ve had suggests that
it’s also very effective on kangaroos.
No, it doesn’t stop them from barking;
that’s not what we mean at all. What
we do mean is that it scares them
away. And according to our inform
ant, the roos don’t just casually hop
away. The word he used was “stampede” but we’re not too sure whether
that term is really appropriate for
kangaroos!
Another term he used was “press
the button and whacko! – they’re
gone”. In short, he found that it was
very effective at scaring away kangaroos from the paddock adjacent to his
home in rural Queensland.
This means that there’s another
possible role for the unit – it could be
fitted to a vehicle and used as a “roo
scarer”. This could be useful when
driving on outback roads at night,
for example. We must stress though
that we haven’t tested the unit in this
role and in any case, it might only
“stampede” Queensland kangaroos
(only joking).
Circuit details
Refer now to Fig.1 for the full circuit
details of the Dog Silencer. It’s built
around IC1 which is a TL494 pulse
width modulation (PWM) controller.
The TL494 is normally used in
switchmode power supplies but is
suitable for virtually any PWM application. In this circuit though, we don’t
pulse width modulate the output.
Instead, the outputs either operate at
full duty-cycle or are off.
Fig.1: the circuit is based on a TL494 PWM controller IC. This IC provides complementary square signals at its
pin 9 & 10 outputs and these drive transistors Q2 and Q3, the centre-tapped transformer T1 and the tweeters.
JULY 1999 19
Fig.2: this block diagram shows the internal circuitry of the TL494 PWM controller. It includes a sawtooth oscillator,
a PWM comparator, a dead-time control comparator, two error amplifiers and a 5V reference. Emitter followers Q1
& Q2 provide the complementary square-wave output signals at pins 9 & 10.
Fig.2 shows a block diagram of
the TL494. It contains the following
circuitry:
• An internal oscillator which has its
frequency set by capacitor CT at pin 5
and resistor RT at pin 6.
• A stable +5V reference at pin 14.
• A “dead-time” comparator with
one input driven from the oscillator.
• Two error amplifiers with their outputs ORed together via diodes (pin 3).
• A PWM comparator with one input
derived from the oscillator and the
other from the ORed output of the two
error amplifiers.
• A flipflop which is driven (via a
NOR gate) by the dead-time and PWM
comparators.
• Two 200mA output transistors
with uncommitted emitters (pins 9
& 10) and collectors (pins 8 & 11).
The bases of these two transistors are
driven in anti-phase by the outputs of
the flipflop.
As used in the Dog Silencer, the
internal oscillator of the TL494
Fig.3: the top waveform in this scope shot shows the 2V
p-p sawtooth waveform at the anode of PUT1. This
waveform is used to frequency modulate the output.
20 Silicon Chip
operates at somewhere between
40kHz and 60kHz and this produces
complementary pulse trains (at half
this frequency) at the emitters of the
internal output transistors (E1 & E2).
Notice that, in this circuit, the collectors of these two transistors are tied to
the positive supply rail, so that they
function as emitter followers.
The E1 and E2 outputs from the
TL494 drive NPN transistors Q2 and
Q3 (TIP41C) in push-pull fashion and
these in turn drive centre-tapped trans-
Fig.4: the bottom waveform in this shot (collector of Q2)
shows the drive to transformer T1, while the top
waveform shows the signal drive to one of the tweeters.
Parts List
1 PC board (available from
Oatley Electronics)
1 plastic case with label
1 prewound centre-tapped
transformer (T1)
2 10µH inductors (L3,L4) – see
text
1 pushbutton switch (S1)
2 piezoelectric tweeters
1 5kΩ horizontal-mount linear
trimpot (VR1)
The inductors and the centre-tapped transformer (T1) are supplied prewound,
to make the assembly as easy as possible. Make sure that all polarised parts are
oriented correctly.
former T1. The secondary winding
of the trans
former then drives two
piezoelectric tweeters which, together with inductors L1-L4, form two
series resonant circuits connected in
parallel.
OK, so that’s how the circuit works
in a nutshell. In practice, it’s a little
more complicated than that, as we
shall see.
Rather than provide a fixed frequency output, this circuit uses an external oscillator to provide frequency
modulation. This circuit is based on
programmable unijunction transistor
PUT1, which is set up as a relaxation
oscillator. R1 & R2 bias the gate of the
PUT to about 3V, while R3 & C1 set
the frequency of oscillation.
In operation, the PUT conducts
each time its anode voltage rises 0.6V
above the gate voltage and stops conducting when C1 discharges (ie, when
the holding current drops below the
threshold value). The result is a 2.7Hz
2V peak-to-peak sawtooth waveform
at the anode. This signal is buffered by
emitter-follower stage Q1 and applied
to pin 6 of IC1.
The scope shot of Fig.3 shows this
2.7Hz sawtooth waveform. It varies
the voltage applied to pin 6 of IC1 and
the result is a frequency modulated
waveform which constantly sweeps
over a range of about 3kHz.
To explain this point further, depending on the setting of trimpot
VR1, the output frequency can vary
from 21 to 24kHz and back again, 2.7
times a second. While this is beyond
the limit of our hearing, it would
sound like a shrieking siren to a dog.
The frequency modulated waveform
is shown as the lower trace in Fig.3
but the scope shows it as a jumbled
waveform because the frequency is far
above the sampling rate at its sweep
setting of 100ms/div.
Trimpot VR1 sets the basic oscillator frequency. At one extreme, it varies the frequency modulated output
from about 18-21kHz, while at the
other extreme the output varies from
28-31kHz.
Power for the sawtooth oscillator
circuit is derived from the VREF output
(pin 14) of IC1. This output provides
a regulated +5V rail.
Trigger circuit
Switch S1 and its associated parts
provide the trigger circuit. This connects via R8 to the dead-time (DT)
input of IC1 at pin 6. Normally, the DT
control input is pulled high via R8 &
R9, which means that the dead-time
is at maximum. This also means that
the two internal transistors are held
off, so there is no drive to Q2 & Q3.
When S1 is pressed, pin 4 is pulled
low via R8 and so the dead time decreases to its minimum value. As a
result, IC1’s E1 and E2 outputs provide
maximum drive to Q2 and Q3. D1 &
D2 protect Q2 & Q3 from damage due
to inductive switching spikes.
Note that the non-inverting inputs
(IN+) of the two error amplifiers are
Semiconductors
1 TL494 PWM controller (IC1)
1 BC548 NPN transistor (Q1)
2 TIP41C NPN transistors
(Q2,Q3)
1 programmable unijunction
transistor (PUT1)
2 BA159 diodes (D1,D2)
Capacitors
1 470µF 25VW (C6)
1 100µF 16VW electrolytic (C5)
1 1µF 16VW electrolytic (C2)
2 0.47µF MKT polyester (C1,C4)
1 .0022µF greencap (C3)
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
2 470kΩ (R3,R8)
1 100kΩ (R2)
1 68kΩ (R1)
1 47kΩ (R6)
1 22kΩ (R9)
1 12kΩ (R7)
1 10kΩ (R5)
1 1kΩ (R4)
2 120Ω (R10,R12)
2 47Ω (R11,R13)
Miscellaneous
Machine screws & nuts,
insulated hookup wire.
connected to the VREF, while the two
inverting inputs are connected together. This effectively disables the error
amplifiers and ensures the maximum
duty-cycle at the outputs.
The lower waveform in Fig.4 was
taken from the collector of Q2 and
shows the drive to the transformer
(T1). Note that this is a square-wave
signal. Q3 drives T1 in exactly the
same manner, except that its output
is 180° out of phase with Q2’s.
However, because each tweeter is
connected in a series resonant circuit
across T1’s secondary, the resultant
tweeter signal voltage is not only
JULY 1999 21
Fig.5: install the parts on the PC board as shown
in this wiring diagram. Note that Link 1 and Link2
should be replaced with 200µH inductors if square
tweeters are supplied.
sinusoidal but is also much greater
in amplitude. This is shown as the
top waveform in Fig.4, which has an
amplitude of 59.2V peak-to-peak or
about 21V RMS. As a result, the total
output power from both tweeters is
equivalent to about 100W (assuming
8Ω tweeters).
Power for the circuit can be derived
from any 10-16V DC source capable of
supplying at least 1A. A 12V battery
or 1A 12V DC plugpack supply would
be ideal for this job.
Building it
All the parts for this design are
available from Oatley Electronics,
so you don’t have to scrounge about
for individual bits and pieces. The
accom
panying panel shows all the
details.
The job of assembly mainly consists
of installing the parts on the PC board.
This board comes with a screened
parts overlay and the transformer
and inductors are all supplied prewound, to make the assembly as easy
as possible.
Fig.5 shows the parts layout on
the PC board. Begin by installing the
resistors, diodes and the wire links,
then install the capacitors. Take care
to ensure that the three electrolytic
capacitors are all correctly oriented.
Note that Link 1 and Link 2 are installed only if you are using rectangular tweeters. If you are supplied with
square tweeters, these links should
be replaced with inductors L1 and L2
(both 200µH); ie, the square tweeters
each require two series inductors
while the rectangular tweeters only
require one. The extra inductors will
automatically be supplied in the kit if
you are supplied with square tweeters.
The transistors can go in next, along
with the IC and the trimpot. Make
sure that the semiconductors are all
correctly oriented. Q2 & Q3 are both
mounted with their metal tabs towards
transformer T1, while IC1 has its pin 1
adjacent to the 470µF capacitor.
The transformer can now be soldered into position, after which you
can install the external wiring for the
power supply, Trigger switch (S1) and
the tweeters. Use medium-duty hook
up wire for the tweeter and switch
leads and heavy-duty hookup wire
for the supply leads.
Work can now begin on the plastic
case. The PC board is mounted on the
lid of the case using machine screws
and nuts, as shown in the photo. You
can use the PC board as a template
for drilling the four mounting holes
in the lid.
The decorative label is affixed to
the bottom of the case and this becomes the front panel. There’s only
one hole to drill and that’s for the
Trigger switch.
You will also have to file three
notches in the top rim of the case,
to provide clearance for the external
leads. Two of these notches provide
clearance for the tweeter leads, while
the third provides clearance for the
power supply leads.
If you are using a plugpack supply,
Resistor Colour Codes
No.
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
2
22 Silicon Chip
Value
470kΩ
100kΩ
68kΩ
47kΩ
22kΩ
12kΩ
10kΩ
1kΩ
120Ω
47Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
yellow violet yellow brown
brown black yellow brown
blue grey orange brown
yellow violet orange brown
red red orange brown
brown red orange brown
brown black orange brown
brown black red brown
brown red brown brown
yellow violet black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
yellow violet black orange brown
brown black black orange brown
blue grey black red brown
yellow violet black red brown
red red black red brown
brown red black red brown
brown black black red brown
brown black black brown brown
brown red black black brown
yellow violet black gold brown
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you could solder its leads directly to
the PC board. Make absolutely certain
that you get these leads the right way
around. This design doesn’t have a
reverse-polarity protection diode, so
some of the parts will be damaged if
you get it wrong.
Testing
Before testing the unit, check your
work carefully for wiring errors. This
done, solder a .0033µF capacitor in
parallel with C3 (it can be tacked to
the copper side of the board). This will
reduce the output frequency to around
10kHz, so that it will be audible and
you can tell whether or not the unit
is working.
Be warned, however, that the output will be extremely loud, although
you might not think so because it’s
operating at a high frequency. This
means that it could damage your
hearing if you are not careful. For this
reason, always position the tweeters
face down on the bench and cover
them with a blanket for testing.
By the way, this warning is equally valid when the unit is operating
beyond the limits of human hearing.
Even though you cannot hear the
noise, it could still seriously damage your hearing if you are careless
enough to get close to the tweeters.
Do not, under any circumstances,
get in front of the teeters while they
are operating.
Another way to reduce the output
for testing is to solder a 1kΩ resistor
in series with each tweeter. Once you
have everything set up, apply power
and press the Trigger switch. If the
unit is working properly, you will hear
a modulated high-frequency sound.
If the unit fails to work, switch off
immediately and check for wiring
errors. If all appears to be OK, reapply
power and check for +12V on pins 8,
11 & 12 of IC1 and at the collectors of
Q1 & Q2. Q1’s collector should be at
+5V, while the gate of PUT1 should
be at about 3V.
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O
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E
The prototype was built into a low-cost plastic case, with the PC board mounted
on the lid. Note the notches filed into the case for the tweeter and supply leads.
Truscott’s
ELECTRONIC WORLD Pty Ltd
ACN 069 935 397
27 The Mall, South Croydon, Vic 3136
email: truscott<at>acepia.net.au
www.electronicworld.aus.as
JULY 1999 23
The PC board is attached to the lid of the case using machine screws and nuts.
Use medium-duty hookup wire for the tweeter and switch leads and heavy-duty
hookup wire for the supply leads.
Fig.6: transistors
Q2 and Q3 must be
heatsinked if you
intend building a
“roo scarer”. Be
sure to isolate their
metal tabs from
the heatsink metal
using a TO-220
mounting kit, as
shown here.
Assuming that everything works
properly, remove the 1kΩ series resistors (if fitted) from the tweeters and
the .0033µF capacitor from the back
of the board. Now, with the tweeters
face down on the benchtop, briefly
press the button again. This time, you
shouldn’t be able to hear anything
because the unit will be operating in
the ultrasonic range. If you do hear a
faint high-pitched noise, adjust VR1
until all is quiet.
Don’t keep the Trigger switch press
ed for too long when testing the unit
at this stage, otherwise Q2 & Q3 could
overheat. The unit is designed for
intermittent use only and provided
it is used in the manner, there’s no
need to fit heatsinks to the two driver
transistors.
Installation
The best location to mount the
tweeters is under the eaves of the
house, so that they are protected from
the weather. Try to position them so
Where To Buy The Parts
All parts for the Dog Silencer are available from Oatley Electronics. The
pricing details are as follows:
Complete kit (includes box, label, wiring kit and two tweeters
but does not include plugpack supply) ............................................ $43.00
PC board plus all on-board parts and one tweeter ......................... $30.00
Extra tweeter ..................................................................................... $5.00
Box, label, switch and wiring kit ......................................................... $8.00
13.8V 1A plugpack power supply ......................................................... $10
Please add $6.00 for postage and packing. To order, contact Oatley Electronics at PO Box 89, Oatley, NSW 2223. Phone (02) 9584 3563; fax (02)
9584 3561; email oatley<at>world.net
24 Silicon Chip
that are as close to the offending dog
as possible, while keeping them hidden from view. Mounting them up out
of the way also means that humans
cannot get too close.
You should also cover the tweeters
with a thin plastic membrane or house
them in a suitable cover, to prevent
them from getting wet.
After that, it’s simply matter of
pressing the button for a few seconds
each time the mutt next door barks.
Over time, you may find that the dog
realises that it’s going to cop this every
time it barks and so eventually ceases
to be a problem.
Building a “roo scarer”
Finally, if you intend fitting this circuit to a vehicle as a “roo scarer”, use
a rocker or toggle switch for S1 so that
the unit can be operated continuously.
A toggle switch with an illuminated
rocker is preferable here, so that you
know when the unit is on.
Heatsinking will also be required
for the two TIP41C output transistors.
One tweeter should be quite sufficient
in the roo scarer role, so a couple of
flag heatsinks should do the job. These
will have to be securely anchored,
to prevent the transistor leads from
lifting the pads on the PC board due
to vibration.
Note that the heatsinks must not
short against anything else or touch
each other, since they will be at collector potential.
A better idea would be to build the
circuit into a rugged metal diecast
case. Q2 & Q3 could then be bolted
to the case for heatsinking and connected to the PC board using flying
leads. Both transistors will have be
electrically isolated from the case
using standard TO-220 mounting kits
(mica washer plus mounting bush), as
shown in Fig.6.
After mounting the transistors, it’s
a good idea to check that their metal
tabs are indeed isolated from the
case using the low-ohms range of a
multimeter.
Power should be taken from the
fused side of the ignition switch, so
that the unit can only be operated
when the ignition is on. Note that all
external wiring connections should
be run using automotive cable. The
tweeter can be mounted behind the
grille and must be waterproofed by
covering it with a thin plastic memSC
brane.
MAILBAG
Image resolution
in satellite pictures
Thanks for a really enthusiastic and
fun article on the Microsoft Terra
Server web site. I’ve been working
in the field of remote sensing for
nearly 15 years and it’s good to see
this information starting to become
available to the public at reasonable
prices and in the form of a technology
that is easy to use.
I have just a couple of corrections
that I think are important enough to
cause me to write to you. First, in the
article you state that the US images
are taken by a USGS satellite. This
is not correct. All the US images
provided by the USGS in the project
are digitised versions of conventional
aerial photography from the National
Aerial Photography Program (NAPP).
Second, there are some comments
about the reported resolu
t ion of
so-called “spy satellites”, with the
author adding that “number plates
with their 100mm high letters are
said to be a doddle” and further on
that “today’s spy satellites are good
enough to pick up the dateline on
the front of a newspaper”. It would
be wonderful if it were true but the
evidence from a variety of military
and civilian sources would tend to
indicate that it is not.
Now, I shall be the first to admit that
trying to find the actual resolution of
current spy satellites is going to be
difficult. The claim of “being able to
read a newspaper from space” is a
very old myth that originated from
the cold war, when fiction became the
official truth and the truth was far less
interesting than the story.
However, there are a couple of ways
in which the true resolution of the
current optical surveillance satellites
has been estimated and more-or-less
verified. First, a slip-up in security has
resulted in images from the satellites
appearing in the US Congressional
Record from time to time. Second, the
general size of the satellites, including
most importantly the estimates of
the dimensions of their optics, has
enabled watchers of these satellites to
estimate the likely ground resolution.
These and other sources of information all lead to the general conclusion
that the best available resolution
would be no better than about 8-10cm,
and probably worse.
Of course, this is not the whole story. The US has radar satellites which
have a ground resolution probably
at the metre level, which greatly extends its surveillance capability. And
most importantly, it has a powerful
communications, processing and interpretation intelligence community
that can access, analyse and deliver
imagery to its personnel in the field
very quickly.
In the civilian community, aside
from the few short-term film-return
missions operated by SPIN-2, the best
ground resolution currently available
is five metres in black-and-white,
from the Indian Remote Sensing
satellite IRS-1C. For colour images,
the best available are the 20-metre
resolution images from the French
SPOT satellite.
Images from both these satellites
are available of Australasia, although
IRS-1C imagery can be very difficult to
acquire. In Australia, there is a huge
amount of imagery from the Landsat-4
and -5 satellites, all available from the
Australian Centre for Remote Sensing
(ACRES) and used extensively for the
agricultural, mapping, mineral exploration and other industries.
Technologies like Microsoft’s Terra
Server are going to increase in prominence over the next decade. There are
certainly problems with the current
offerings in terms of coverage, quality
and timeliness but it is a beginning.
This is an exciting area to watch!
Stephen McNeill,
Christchurch, New Zealand.
Dimensional confusion
in TerraServer article
With reference to your TerraServer
article: a terametre is perhaps a bit
larger than the average distance to
Jupiter, so a square terametre would
be a very large territory indeed and
500 square terametres would greatly
exceed the area of the Solar System.
The area of the Earth, on the other
hand, is about 500 million square
kilometres, or, if you like, 500 square
megametres, or maybe even 500 tera
square-metres.
That’s a trifle smaller than 500
square terametres. Indeed, all of this
can be tera-bly confusing!
Paul Schick (via email)
Comment: Hmm. Yes, we were a bit
confused, weren’t we.
Request for
historical radio material
For some time now I have been
researching the history of radio communications in the outback of Australia. I am writing a book that will be
titled “Radios of the Outback – from
Flynn to Satellites “ or some similar
title. I expect it to be ready to put on
bookstalls in mid 2001, maybe before.
This is a very intriguing subject.
Many people will have read books on
Rev John Flynn, Alf Traeger and the
Royal Flying Doctor Service. These
books cover various aspects of the
development of radio but mostly the
social history. I am looking more at
the technical side of this history and
in fact there will be some circuit diagrams of early HF transceivers in the
book that may never have been seen
before by the general public.
It has been assumed by most people
that Traeger designed and built all of
the HF transceivers (pedal radios).
Well, that isn’t quite true, as a very
talented chap by the name of Harry
Kauper was very much involved with
the early work of developing sets. He
was Traeger’s mentor.
AWA also had a pedal radio available at the time the first AM/CW
sets were being introduced into the
outback. The voltage output from the
pedal generators has been quoted in
various articles as 180, 200-240 or
300-400V. The nominal output voltage
was 180V and not any of the other
voltages as will be explained in the
book. It is proving to be a fascinating
exercise doing this research.
I haven’t got all of the story together
as yet and would appreciate any information and photographs that readers
could supply to me to assist in making
the book as accurate and interesting
as possible. If copyright exists please
let me know.
Rodney Champness, VK3UG,
6 Mundoona Court,
Mooroopna, Vic 3629.
JULY 1999 25
This easy-to-build test
instrument can measure
inductances over the
range from 10µH to
19.99mH with an
accuracy of about 5%.
It uses readily
available parts and
has a 4-digit LCD
readout.
By RICK WALTERS
Build this:
10uH to 19.99mH
Inductance Meter
26 Silicon Chip
A
N INDUCTANCE METER can
be a handy test instrument in
many situations. It can be used
for servicing (eg, in TV sets), selecting
coils for RF circuits, checking coils
for switchmode power supplies and
for measuring coils in many other
applications.
The instrument to be described here
measures from 10µH to 19.99mH over
two ranges and has the twin virtues
of being easy to build and easy to
use. As shown in the photos, there
are just three front panel controls: a
range switch (µH or mH), a pushbutton
switch and a potentiometer. An AC
plugpack is used to supply power,
so there is no on/off switch to worry
about.
To make a measurement, you first
connect the inductor to the test terminals and switch to the µH range.
You then press the “Null” button and
rotate the knob until the LCD panel
meter reads zero, or as close to zero
as you can get (ie, a null). This done,
you release the button and read the
inductance directly off the display.
If the meter over-ranges (ie, it only
displays a 1 at the lefthand digit), you
simply switch to the mH range before
reading the inductance value from
the meter. The value indicated on the
scale by the potentiometer is the DC
resistance of the inductor (although,
in practice, this reading may not be
all that accurate).
Block diagram
Fig.1 shows the block diagram of
the Digital Inductance Meter. It uses
a 3.2768MHz crystal oscillator (IC1a)
to generate a precise clock frequency
and this is divided by 20 and filtered
by IC5 to give a 163.84kHz sinewave
signal. In addition, the signal from the
divide-by-20 stage is divided by 100
and filtered by IC6 to give a second
frequency of 1638.4Hz.
Main Features
•
Two ranges: 10-1999µH &
1-19.99mH
•
Indicates inductor DC
resistance
•
Operates from a 9V AC plugpack supply
•
Accuracy typically 5% from
10µH to 19.99mH
Range switch S2a selects between
these two frequencies and feeds the
selected signal to a nulling circuit.
This circuit is used to null out the
DC resistance of the inductor being
measured. The output from the nulling circuit is then fed to positive and
negative peak detectors and these in
turn drive a digital panel meter (DPM).
Circuit details
Let’s now take a look at the circuit
diagram of the Inductance Meter – see
Fig.2.
NAND gate IC1a and its associated
components function as a square wave
oscillator. It oscillates at a frequency
of 3.2768MHz, as set by crystal X1.
The 33pF, 270pF and 100pF capacitors
provide the correct loading for the
crystal and ensure that it starts reliably
when power is applied.
Pushbutton switch S1 is used to
disable the oscillator. Normally, the
output of IC1a (pin 3) clocks the pin
15 (CA-bar) input of IC2b. However,
when S1 is pressed, pin 1 is pulled
low and IC1a’s pin 3 output remains
high. We’ll explain why this is done
later on.
IC2b, part of a 74HC390 dual 4-bit
decade counter, divides the clock
signal from IC1a by 10. The divided
327.68kHz output appears at pin 9 and
in turn clocks pin 1 of IC3a.
IC3a is one half of a 74HC112 dual
J-K flipflop. In operation, it toggles its
Q and Q-bar outputs on each falling
edge of the clock pulse and thus divides the frequency on its pin 1 input
by 2. The resulting 163.84kHz square
wave signal on the Q output (pin 5)
is then applied to op amp IC5 which
is configured as a Multiple Feedback
Bandpass Filter (MFBF).
Because a square wave is made up
of a fundamental sinewave frequency plus multiple harmonics, we can
configure IC5 to recover virtually any
harmonic. In this case, we are using
IC5 to recover the 163.84kHz fundamental frequency, as determined by
the three resistors and two capacitors
between the output of IC3a and its
inverting input.
The recovered 163.84kHz sinewave
output appears on pin 6 of IC5 and
due to the bandwidth limitations of
the IC, it is a little “notchy”. For this
reason, it is further filtered using a
1.5kΩ resistor and a 470pF capacitor
to remove these high frequency artefacts. This filter circuit also reduces
the amplitude of the sinewave to
around 5V peak-to-peak. The filtered
sinewave is then fed to VR1 which
is the calibration control for the µH
(microhenry) range.
Similarly, for the mH range, IC3a’s
Q-bar output is fed to pin 4 of IC2a
which in conjunction with IC1c and
IC1d is wired as a divide-by-5 counter.
Its output appears at pin 3 and clocks
decade counter IC4. IC4 divides the
frequency on its pin 15 input by 10
and in turn clocks JK flipflop IC3b
which divides by two. The signal is
then fed to MFBF filter stage IC6, in
this case centred on 1638.4Hz.
The output from pin 6 of IC6 is a
1638.4Hz sinewave (also at 5V p-p)
and this is fed to calibration control VR2. Range switch S2a selects
between the two output frequencies
Fig.1: the block diagram for the Digital Inductance Meter. Two precise sinewave frequencies are
derived and these are fed to a null circuit which contains the inductor under test. The following
circuitry then measures the impedance of the inductor and displays its inductance in µH or mH.
JULY 1999 27
Parts List
1 PC board, code 04107991,
124mm x 101mm
1 plastic case, Jaycar HB6094
1 front panel label
1 Digital Panel Meter, Jaycar
QP5550 (or equivalent)
1 9V AC plugpack
1 chassis mount power socket, to
suit plugpack
1 DPDT toggle switch (S1)
1 pushbutton switch, (PB1),
Jaycar SP0710 (or equivalent)
1 speaker connector panel, Jaycar
PT3000 (or equivalent)
1 knob to suit front panel
1 ferrite core set, Altronics L5300
(or equivalent)
1 bobbin, Altronics L5305 (or
equivalent)
20m 0.25mm enamelled copper
wire
2 5kΩ multi-turn trimpots (VR1-2)
1 10Ω wirewound potentiometer
(VR3) (see text for alternative)
3 20kΩ vertical mounting trimpots
(VR4-VR6)
1 3mm x 20mm bolt
1 3mm nut
1 3mm flat washer
1 3mm fibre washer
13 PC stakes
Semiconductors
1 74HC00 quad 2 input NAND
gate (IC1)
1 74HC390 decade counter (IC2)
1 74HC112 dual JK flipflop (IC3)
1 4029 binary decade counter
(IC4)
and applies the selected signal to the
bases of transistors Q1 and Q2 via a
10µF capacitor.
Nulling circuit
OK, we now have two precise
frequencies, either of which can be
selected and fed to the bases of PNP
transistors Q1 and Q2. These are wired
in a nulling circuit. Let’s take a closer
look at their operation.
The thing to remember here is
that the emitter of a PNP transistor
is always 0.6V more positive than
its base (0.6V more negative for an
NPN transistor). Thus, if the base of
Q1 is at 5.7V, its emitter sits at 6.3V.
Because the supply voltage is 9V, this
means that 2.7V must appear across
28 Silicon Chip
4 LM318 op amps (IC5, IC7-IC9)
1 TL071 op amp (IC6)
1 TL072 dual op amp (IC10)
1 7809 TO-220 9V regulator (REG1)
1 78L05 TO-92 5V regulator (REG2)
1 79L05 TO-92 -5V regulator (REG3)
2 BC559 PNP transistors (Q1,Q2)
4 1N914 silicon diodes (D1-D4)
2 1N4004 1A power diodes (D5,D6)
1 3.2768MHz crystal (X1), Jaycar
RQ5271 (or equivalent)
Capacitors
4 470µF 16VW PC electrolytic
7 100µF 16VW PC electrolytic
1 10µF 16VW PC electrolytic
7 0.1µF monolithic ceramic
5 0.1µF MKT polyester
3 .01µF MKT polyester
1 .0047µF MKT polyester
1 470pF ceramic or MKT polyester
2 270pF NPO 5% ceramic
1 220pF NPO 5% ceramic
3 100pF NPO 5% ceramic
1 33pF NPO 5% ceramic
2 22pF NPO 5% ceramic
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 8.2MΩ (select on test)
1 1MΩ
2 5.6kΩ
2 820kΩ
3 4.7kΩ
2 200kΩ
1 1.5kΩ
5 100kΩ
2 1kΩ
1 68kΩ
2 470Ω
1 47kΩ
2 270Ω
1 33kΩ
1 180Ω (calibration)
2 20kΩ
4 100Ω
14 10kΩ
1 3.3Ω (calibration)
1 7.5kΩ
the associated 270Ω emitter resistor
and this translates into a current of
10mA through the resistor.
This (constant) current will also
flow in the collector circuit of Q1,
regardless of the load resistance (provided this resistance is not too large).
If the base of Q1 is now modulated by
a sinewave, its collector current will
vary sinusoidally, the average still
being 10mA.
Q2 has the same value of emitter
resistor as Q1 so its collector current
will be the same as Q1’s; ie, 10mA.
This collector current flows through
potentiometer VR3 to ground.
Note that high beta (gain) transistors
are used for Q1 and Q2 to reduce the
base current, which is a small fraction
of the emitter current.
Because the current through Q2 is
10mA, VR3 (10Ω) will have the same
voltage across it as an inductor with
a 10Ω resistance connected between
Q1’s collector and ground. This position is labelled on the circuit as
“DUT”, which means “Device Under
Test”. The scale for VR3, on the front
panel, is calibrated from 0-10. We will
come back to it shortly.
Q1’s collector is connected to the
positive (red) input terminal of the
inductance meter, while the other
input terminal is connected to ground.
When an inductor is connected across
these terminals, a voltage appears
across it. This voltage consists of two
components: (1) a voltage due to the
DC resistance of the inductor (as just
described); and (2) a voltage due to
the inductive reactance.
In operation, Q1 drives pin 3 of
differential amplifier stage IC7 via a
resistive divider (10kΩ & 20kΩ), while
Q2 drives the pin 2 input via VR3. IC7
and the following parts, including
the LCD readout, function as a digital
voltmeter.
Before taking a measurement, the
resistive voltage component must be
cancelled out. This is done by pressing
switch S1 which shuts down oscillator stage IC1a and effectively “kills”
the sinewave signals selected by S2a.
Potentiometer VR3 is then adjusted so
that the signal on pin 2 of differential
amplifier stage IC7 is the same as the
signal on pin 3, as indicated by a 0.00
reading on the LCD readout.
Note that when the meter reads
zero, the control knob on VR3 indicates the inductor’s DC resistance on
the calibrated scale.
Making the measurement
If S1 is now released, the selected sinewave modulates the 10mA
collector current of Q1. This in turn
generates a sinusoidal voltage across
the inductor (DUT), the amplitude of
which is proportional to the inductance. The resulting sinewave signal
from IC7 is subsequently rectified by
peak detectors IC8 & IC9, summed
Fig.2: the complete circuit diagram
of the Digital Inductance Meter. IC1
is the oscillator, while ICs2-5 divide
the oscillator signal to produce the
two precise sinewave frequencies.
Constant current sources Q1 & Q2
form the null circuit.
JULY 1999 29
Fig.3: install the parts on the PC board as shown here, taking care to ensure
that all polarised parts are correctly oriented. Note that two 8.2MΩ resistors are
shown connected to pin 2 of IC7 but only one is used in practice and is selected
on test (see text). Note also that the metal case of the pot is connected to earth
via one of its terminals.
30 Silicon Chip
in IC10b and applied to the digital
panel meter.
IC8 is used to detect and rectify the
positive sinewave peaks. It works like
this: when the output of IC7 swings
positive, pin 6 of IC8 swings negative
and charges a 100µF capacitor via D4
and a series 100Ω resistor to the peak
level of the waveform. As a result, the
voltage across the 100µF capacitor is
equal to but opposite in polarity to the
peak positive input voltage.
D4 prevents the 100µF capacitor
from discharging as the input level
falls and the voltage on pin 6 starts to
rise. In addition, D3 is reverse biased
during this time and so has no effect.
Conversely, when IC7’s output
swings negative, IC8’s output swings
positive and is clamped by D3 so that
it is 0.6V above the virtual earth input
at pin 2. As a result, the voltage across
the 100µF capacitor is “topped up”
only during positive signal excursions
at the output of IC7.
IC9, the negative peak detector,
works in exactly the same way but
with opposite polarity. It charges its
100µF capacitor to the positive peak
of the applied waveform. Thus, the
positive peak voltage is represented
by a negative DC voltage, while the
negative peak voltage is represented
by a positive DC voltage across the
lower 100µF capacitor.
Due to the bandwidth limitations of
the ICs, this rectification is not perfect
at the higher frequency. This limits the
accuracy below 10µH and readings
below this value should only be used
for comparison measurements.
The output signals from the positive and negative peak detectors are
summed in amplifier stage IC10b. This
stage operates with a gain of .056, as
set by the 5.6kΩ and 100kΩ feedback
resistors, to match the signal to the
sensitivity of the DPM (200mV FSD).
IC10b drives op amp IC10a which
operates with a gain of two and this
then drives the IN+ input of the panel
meter.
Note that the IN- input of the panel meter takes its reference from the
9V supply rail and normally sits at
about 6.3V. As a result, IC10a must
also operate as a level shifter. This is
achieved by biasing pin 3 of IC10 to
half the IN- reference voltage (using
two 10kΩ resistors). Thus, under no
signal conditions, pin 1 also sits at
6.3V and the meter reading is zero.
Trimpot VR6 is used to compensate
Table 1: Capacitor Codes
Value
IEC Code EIA Code
0.1µF
100n
104
.01µF 10n
103
.0047µF 4n7
472
470pF
470p
471
270pF
270p
271
220pF
220p
221
100pF
100p
101
33pF 33p 33
22pF 22p 22
for any offset voltage at the output of
IC10a and allows us to set a zero reading on the DPM when the output of IC7
is at ground. Similarly, VR4 and VR5
compensate for any offset voltages at
the outputs of the peak detectors.
Range switch S2b switches the decimal point on the panel meter, so that
it displays the correct value when we
switch from µH to mH. In effect, this
switch divides by 10 while S2a divides by 100, so that we get an overall
range division of 1000 when switching
from the µH to the mH range.
Power supply
Power for the Digital Inductance
Meter is derived from a 12VAC AC
plugpack supply. Its output is halfwave rectified by diodes D5 and D6
to derive +12V and -12V rails and
these are filtered and fed to 3-terminal
regulators REG1 & REG3 respectively.
Quite a few changes were made to the PC board of the Digital Inductance Meter
after this photograph was taken.
Table 2: Resistor Colour Codes
No.
1
1
2
2
5
1
1
1
2
14
1
2
3
1
2
2
2
1
4
1
Value
8.2MΩ
1MΩ
820kΩ
200kΩ
100kΩ
68kΩ
47kΩ
33kΩ
20kΩ
10kΩ
7.5kΩ
5.6kΩ
4.7kΩ
1.5kΩ
1kΩ
470Ω
270Ω
180Ω
100Ω
3.3Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
grey red green brown
brown black green brown
grey red yellow brown
red black yellow brown
brown black yellow brown
blue grey orange brown
yellow violet orange brown
orange orange orange brown
red black orange brown
brown black orange brown
violet green red brown
green blue red brown
yellow violet red brown
brown green red brown
brown black red brown
yellow violet brown brown
red violet brown brown
brown grey brown brown
brown black brown brown
orange orange gold brown
5-Band Code (1%)
grey red black yellow brown
brown black black yellow brown
grey red black orange brown
red black black orange brown
brown black black orange brown
blue grey black red brown
yellow violet black red brown
orange orange black red brown
red black black red brown
brown black black red brown
violet green black brown brown
green blue black brown brown
yellow violet black brown brown
brown green black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
yellow violet black black brown
red violet black black brown
brown grey black black brown
brown black black black brown
orange orange black silver brown
JULY 1999 31
This photograph shows the
completed Digital Inductance
Meter with the calibration
inductor connected to its test
terminals – see text.
REG1 provides a +9V rail, while REG3
provides a -5V rail. In addition, REG1
feeds REG2 which provides a regulated +5V rail.
The ±5V rails supply most of the
op amp stages, while the +9V rail
supplies the digital panel meter and
the constant current sources in the
null circuit. The +12V rail is used
for the positive supply to IC10, as its
output needs to swing up to near the
9V supply of the DPM.
Putting it together
Building the circuit is a lot easier
than understanding how it works.
32 Silicon Chip
Most of the parts are mounted on a
single PC board and this is coded
04107991. This, together with the digital panel meter, fits inside a standard
plastic case with a sloping front panel.
As usual, check the PC board for
etching defects by comparing it with
the published pattern (Fig.4). Any
defects should be repaired before
proceeding. In addition, part of the
PC board will have to be filed away
along the bottom lefthand and bottom
righthand edges, so that the board
will fit between the mounting pillars
of the case.
Check also that the body of switch
S1 fits through its matching clearance
hole in the board. Enlarge this hole
with a tapered reamer if necessary,
so that it clears the switch. The same
goes for the threaded bush of pot VR3.
Fig.3 shows the assembly details.
Begin by fitting 13 PC stakes for the
external wiring points, then fit the
11 wire links on the top of the board
(including the one under VR3). This
done, fit the resistors, diodes and
transistors. Table 2 shows the resistor
colour codes but check them with a
DMM as well, just to make sure.
Take care to ensure that all the
transistors and diodes are installed the
correct way around and make sure the
correct part is used at each location.
Once these parts are in, install the
capacitors (watch the polarity of the
electros), the regulators and the ICs.
We used IC sockets in the prototype
but suggest that you solder your ICs
directly to the PC board. Again, be
sure to use the correct device in each
location and note that the ICs don’t
all face in the same direction.
The trimpots can now all be installed, followed by poten
tiometer
(VR3). As shown in the photo, VR3 is
installed from the component side of
the PC board and is secured using a
nut on the copper side. Its terminals
are connected to their pads on the PC
board using short lengths of tinned
copper wire.
Once the pot is in, you have to run
two insulated wire links between its
terminals and points CT & CW on the
PC board – see Fig.4. These points are
located near Q2, towards the bottom
righthand corner. Note also that the
metal case of the pot is connected to
earth via one of its terminals.
That completes the board assembly.
Before placing it to one side though,
go over your work carefully and check
for errors. In particular, check for
missed solder joints and incorrectly
placed parts.
Final assembly
Next, attach the artwork to the front
panel and use it as a drilling template
for the switches, the potentiometer,
the test terminals and the panel meter. The square cutout for the meter is
made by first drilling a series of small
holes around the inside of the marked
area, then knocking out the centre
piece and filing the edges to shape.
This done, use a sharp chisel to remove the short mounting pillar inside
the case, to prevent it from fouling the
panel meter. You will also have to drill
a hole in the top rear panel for the
3.5mm power socket – see photo. Be
sure to position this hole so that the
socket clears the panel meter when it
is mounted.
The various components can now
all be installed in the case, starting
with the switches and the input connector block which carries the test
terminals. Bend the lugs on the input
connector block so that they are parallel to the front panel, to prevent them
shorting to the PC board. The board
can then be fitted inside the case and
secured using two self-tapping screws
into the short mounting pillars.
Before fitting the digital panel meter, it should have a link fitted from
N to OFF (to disable the polarity
indication). In addition, you have to
fit three 100kΩ resistors from P1, P2
and P3 to OFF. These modifications
are all shown on Fig.3 (do not forget
the link).
The panel meter we used has an
external dress bezel with two captive mounting screws. This bezel is
mounted from the front and the panel
meter then fitted over the screws and
secured using nuts and fibre washers.
The assembly can now be completed by running the point-to-point
wiring. Note the connections between
S2 and the panel meter. In particular,
the middle lefthand terminal of S2
goes to the ON pad on the meter board
(not to resistor P3). By contrast, the
top and bottom lefthand terminals
are connected to the resistors on P2
and P1 respectively.
Fig.4: two insulated flying leads must be run on the copper side of the
PC board, between the pot terminals and points CT & CW, as shown
in this diagram.
Test & calibration
Before you begin testing, you need
to wind an inductor which is used
later during the calibration procedure.
To do this, wind around 300 turns of
30 B&S wire on the L5305 bobbin, then
fit the cores and clamp them together
using a 20mm bolt, flat washer, fibre
washer and nut.
Once the coil has been wound,
clean and tin the ends, then connect
a 180Ω 1% resistor in parallel with it.
Now put the coil to one side – you’ll
need it shortly, for Step 7 of the following procedure.
To test the unit, apply power and
check that D5’s cathode is at about
12V. This voltage will depend on the
particular plugpack you use and is
not too critical. Next check the +9V,
Fig.5: check your PC board by comparing it with this full-size etching
pattern before installing any of the parts.
JULY 1999 33
H
SILICON
CHIP
INDUCTANCE METER
4
5
6
7
3
2
8
9
1
PRESS AND ADJUST
FOR METER NULL
+5V and -5V rails – these should all
be within 5%. The panel meter should
show a reading of around 16.00 or
160.0, depending on the range.
Now check the supply rails at the
IC pins. If these are OK, you are ready
to calibrate the instrument using the
following step-by-step procedure:
Step1: connect a multimeter across
the test terminals and set it to a range
suitable for measuring 10mA DC.
Step 2: press S1 and check the current on the multimeter. It should be
close to 10mA.
Step 3: release S1, rotate VR3 fully
anticlockwise (0Ω), remove the multimeter and connect a 3.3Ω resistor
across the test terminals.
Step 4: switch your multimeter
34 Silicon Chip
0
10
Fig.6: this full-size artwork can be used as a drilling template for the front panel.
mH
to a low voltage range and connect
it between pin 6 of IC7 and ground.
Short switch S1’s terminals using an
alligator clip, then adjust VR3 (on the
front panel) for a 0V (or as close as you
can get) reading on the multimeter.
Step 5: connect the multimeter
across the 100µF capacitor at the output of IC8 and (with S1 still shorted)
adjust VR4 for a reading of 0V. Now
adjust VR5 for 0V across the 100µF
capacitor at the output of IC9.
Step 6: adjust VR6 for a zero reading
on the panel meter and remove the
shorting clip from S1.
Step 7: remove the 3.3Ω resistor
from the test terminals and fit the
inductor that you wound earlier (with
its parallel 180Ω 1% resistor).
Step 8: rotate VR3 to the zero ohms
position and measure the voltage on
pin 6 of IC7. It must be adjusted to
zero by fitting a resistor between pin
2 and either the +5V or -5V rail. Two
sets of pads have been placed on the
PC board for the resistor, from pin 2
to each supply. Our unit needed an
8.2MΩ resistor to the negative rail.
Step 9: set S2 to µH and adjust VR1
until the panel meter reads 174.9.
Step 10: switch to the mH range
and adjust VR2 for a reading of 17.49.
That completes the calibration procedure. You can now close the case
and begin using your new inductance
meter.
By the way, if you find that you
cannot zero (or null) the panel meter
when measuring an inductor, even
with VR3 rotated fully clockwise,
it means that the resistance of the
inductor is greater than 10Ω. Despite
this, the inductance reading displayed
when S1 is released should be close
to the correct value.
What if it won’t work?
If you have problems, the first step
is to check your sol
dering. In particular, look for missed solder joints
and shorts between adjacent tracks
and IC pins.
A few voltage checks can also help
pinpoint problems. First, check for
+ 2.5V on pins 5, 6 and 9 of IC3. Pin
6 of IC5 and pin 6 of IC6 should be
around 0V DC and 4-5V AC. Most
meters will give quite a low reading
on the AC output of IC5. As long as
you get an indication, the signal is
probably OK. The bases of Q1 and Q2
should be at 5.7V and their emitters
at 6.3V. The collector of Q2 should
read 100mV.
Note that when the unit is working
properly and there is no inductor
across the terminals, the meter will
read around 16.00 or 160.0, depending on the range. This is due to the
positive peak detector swinging to
full output and is normal.
Variations
VR3 can be changed if you wish
to measure inductors with DC resistances greater than 10Ω. For example,
a 25Ω pot will allow inductors with
resistances up to 25Ω to be measured.
Naturally you will have to recalibrate
the potentiometer scale or you can
simply multiply the front panel readSC
ing by 2.5.
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SITE for more
TX module $11
TX + encoder $18
RX module $18
RX + encoder $25
AT LAST! A COLOUR CMOS CAMERA
WITH GOOD RESOLUTION + BUILT
IN AUDIO + FREE PLUG PACK
+ F R E E V H F M O D U L AT O R .
Available with swivel mount or dome mount
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$160
$160
BNC connector (video), DC connector
(power), RCA connector (audio). 330000
pixel. 330 TV line res.
7-12Vdc 55mA max. INTRO PRICE $160
NEW 12VDC-240VAC/300VAINVERTER
This new design is very efficient, is rated
at 300VA constant not peak (when our
transformer is used). It has auto switch on
and uses High power MOS-FETS that
require very minimal heat-sinking. The kit
inc. PCBs, all onboard components, 4 high
power MOSFETs and
all for $35
To save
money you
Designed to use minimal
can use your
power & has a battery
own transformer
saving 12 led bar-graph
or we can supply
indicator. Kit inc PCB, all
the Kit + a high quality compact toroidal
onboard parts, label, 10A
transformer plus wiring kit plus a used
cutout MOSFET + suitable
surplus case for $32....For 50A MOSFET large electrolytic capacitor for $89
(IRFZ44) add $3.
** CCD CAMERA SPECIAL **
WITH A FREE UHF MODULATOR
To complete your solar system we have
The best "value for money" CCD camera
12-24V SOLAR REGULATOR KIT:
on the market! 0.1 lux, High IR response &
15A Kit inc all onboard parts & PCB. $25
hi-res. Better than most
MINI AUDIO MODULE - (Pre-built)
cheaper models. 32 X 32mm
This amp/pre-amp is Ideal
$99... With 1of these
for use with our
lenses pinhole
cameras. 12Vdc,
(60deg.), 92 deg.;
Hi sensitivity, 0.6W output
120 deg. or forJULY 1999 35
(150 deg) add $10
operation includes electret mic. $10
SC-JLY-99
$10
CHECK OUR WEB SITE FOR MORE
(NEW) 12V / 2.3Ah AUDIOVOX LEAD
ACID BATTERY (Model BTR-1900).
Priced at a fraction of their real value (as
used in video cameras & older mobile
phones - same as panasonic batteries we
sold before). 180 (L) x 60 (H) x 22 (W) mm,
0.67Kg, made in Japan. The contacts
PO Box 89 Oatley NSW 2223
(which are easily solderable) are at one
Ph ( 02 ) 9584 3563 Fax 9584 3561 end of the battery. 2 batteries + suitable
orders by e-mail: oatley<at>world.net float charger.
4 CHANNEL VIDEO SWITCHER KIT
This kit can switch manually or
sequentially up to 4 audio/video sources.
Features inc. VCR relay output for STOP /
REC, can be switched with PIR or alarm
inputs Add a security channel to your TV
with a VHF modulator, watch TV & flick
channels & see who’s at the door can be
auto switched using PIR units Kit + PCB +
all on-bourd parts $50. Optional VHF
modulator / mixer $18
PELTIER EFFECT DEVICES
Make a solid state food cooler / warmer for
the car etc. with 2 heatsinks, a fan and one
of the following. Could be used for cooling
overclocked PC CPUs. All 40 X 40mm.
4A
T 65deg. Qmax 42W $25
6A
T 65deg. Qmax 60W $27.50
8A
T 65deg. Qmax 75W $30
Device comes with instructions to build
cooler / heater plus data. Some used
surplus heatsinks avail.
***NEW*****NEW*****NEW*****NEW***
QUALITY AUSTRALIAN MADE
FEATURE PACKED MINI ALARM
SYSTEM. Features inc. boot release,
central locking
output, imobiliser
output, indicator
flash relay. Has
with 2 key-fob
transmitter keys. Drawn in proportion
Audio-Video
Transmitter
Whether you are want to monitor
a surveillance camera or transmit
your VCR’s signal to another TV set,
this Video Transmitter will come in
handy. It avoids the need for difficult
cabling and can send signals over a
20-metre range.
By JOHN CLARKE
I
T IS BECOMING MORE and more
common to install video surveillance
cameras, to improve safety and to deter thieves. You can use them to monitor
the swimming pool, the front or rear
door and the baby sleeping. But
while they provide you with
a clear coverage of the area
under surveillance, they
can be very difficult to install. This is because you
need to run wiring between
the camera and monitor
which can involve drilling
through brick walls and
accessing tight spots in the
ceiling or under the floors.
Using a Video Transmitter removes the need to run
the wiring. It also means that
you can use a television set to receive
the signal. This is because the video signal from the camera is modulated and
transmitted through the air just like a
miniature TV station.
Note that a video monitor cannot
directly be used to receive the signal. If
you want to use a video monitor, you will
need to use a VCR to receive the signal
36 Silicon Chip
first. The video output from the VCR
can then be connected to the monitor.
The Video Transmitter can also be
used to transmit signals from a VCR
to a second or remote TV set in the
home without interconnecting wires.
The Video Transmitter is housed in
a small plastic case. It has a telescopic
antenna to transmit the signal and is
powered from a 12VAC plugpack. It
has a 12VDC output for powering a
video camera and audio board. The
transmitter’s modulator will accept
both video and sound inputs.
The schematic arrangement for the
Video Transmitter circuit is shown in
Fig.1. It comprises a power supply, a
video modulator and two wideband
amplifiers. The video modulator
produces a modulated television
transmission on VHF channel 0 or
channel 1. This radio frequency signal
is then boosted by the two amplifiers
to a sufficient level for transmission
via the telescopic whip antenna.
The transmission range depends
on the transmitting and receiving
antennas. From our experiments you
can expect good reception using a
short antenna over a 15m range in
Fig.1: block diagram of the video transmitter. The video modulator
operates at VHF channel 0 or 1.
a typical single level home, while
reception over a 20m range requires
both antennas to be adjusted in length
to match the transmission frequency.
If you have a 2-storey home, you will
probably be able to obtain satisfactory
results from one level to another but
if your home has reinforced concrete
floors (ie, with steel mesh), the system
will not work from floor to floor.
Circuit description
The circuit for the Video Transmitter is shown in Fig.2. The video signal
Main Features
•
•
•
•
•
•
Transmits over a 20m range.
Provides both video and
mono sound.
Channel 0 or channel 1
selection.
12VAC plugpack operation.
12V DC output for a video
camera.
12V output for a microphone
adaptor.
Fig.2: two cascaded wideband monolithic wideband amplifiers boost the video modulator’s signal so that it has a
range of about 15 metres in a typical single-storey household.
JULY 1999 37
Fig.5: winding details for
the input filter inductor L1.
The signal at the wiper of VR1 is
AC-coupled to the emitter of transistor
Q1 which acts as a DC level shifter
and clamp to provide DC restoration.
In fact, Q1 is connected as an emitter
follower which is biased by trimpot
VR2. So how does Q1 work? What
happens is that the voltage at the emitter is held constant at 0.6V (nominal)
below the base. The video signal is
AC-coupled to the emitter of Q2 via
a 470µF capacitor and while it is able
to drag the emitter up in voltage it
cannot pull it down below the level
set by VR2. This means that the bottom
of the sync pulses are clamped to the
emitter voltage while the video signal
can ride up above this level.
Hence, DC restoration has been
applied to the video signal before it
is fed to the modulator. So what does
all that mean in practice? It allows the
best contrast range in the transmitted
picture; ie, the full range from black to
white in a B&W picture or luminance
in a colour picture.
The audio signal for the modulator
is coupled in via two 10µF capacitors
connected back-to-back.
The RF output from the modulator
is applied to two monolithic amplifiers, IC1 & IC2, connected in cascade.
The specified amplifier, uPC1688G,
is a wideband surface mount device
capable of providing amplification for
frequencies up to 1GHz and the power
gain at 500MHz is typically 21dB.
A .001µF capacitor couples the signal from the video modulator to the
Fig.3: wiring layout for the video transmitter. The two surface-mount wideband amplifiers are mounted on the copper side of the PC board – see photo.
Fig.4: actual size artwork for the PC board.
is AC-coupled via two back-to-back
470µF capacitors to remove any DC
offset and then applied to trimpot VR1
which sets the video level applied to
the modulator. If the video level is set
too high, the modulator will produce a
signal that is received as overly bright
and washed out. Conversely, if the
video signal is too low, the picture
will appear unsaturated (dark) and
may have a tendency to roll due to an
inadequate sync signal.
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
No.
1
2
38 Silicon Chip
Value
10kΩ
82Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black orange brown
grey red black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black red brown
grey red black gold brown
Parts List
Fig.6: this is the full-size artwork for the front-panel label.
input of IC1 while and 82Ω resistor
provides loading for the signal. The
output of IC1 is then AC-coupled to
IC2 via another .001µF capacitor and
loading is provided by an 82Ω resis
tor connected in series with a .001µF
capacitor.
With two of these amplifiers working in cascade you might think that
there would be quite a strong signal
being fed to the whip antenna but the
reality is a little different. Let’s look
at what happens. First, the nominal
output level from the video modulator
is 78dBµV and this means that the
output is 78dB above 1µV. This corresponds to about 8mV of signal into
75Ω or 0.85µW. The two uPC1688G
amplifiers each have a power gain
of about 21dB (at or below 500MHz)
and so we are amplifying by a total
of 42dB. This corresponds to a power
amplification of 15,848 and the total
expected power at the antenna is
13.4mW. That’s in theory.
In practice, the coupling losses
caused by loading mis
matches at
each stage and to the whip antenna
mean that the signal radiated by the
whip antenna is really quite small but
adequate to give a maximum range of
about 20 metres inside a typical home.
Power for the circuit comes from
a 12VAC plugpack which is fed via a
low-pass filter consisting of inductors
Table 2: Capacitor Codes
Value
IEC Code EIA Code
.01µF 103 10n
.001µF 102 1n
L1a & L1b, wound on a balun core,
together with two .01µF capacitors.
These prevent video signals from
being radiated from the mains leads
and also prevents hum modulation in
the video transmission.
The filtered AC voltage is full wave
rectified using diodes D1-D4 and
smoothed with a 470µF capacitor. It is
then fed to two 3-terminal regulators.
REG1 provides the +5V supply for the
modulator and amplifiers while REG2
provides +12V for a video camera.
Construction
The Video Transmitter is constructed on a PC board coded 0240-5991 and
measuring 105 x 60mm. It is housed
in a plastic case measuring 130 x 68
x 41mm.
You can begin construction by
checking the PC board against the
published pattern. Check that the hole
sizes are correct and that there are
no shorts or breaks between tracks.
Check also that the PC board clips
neatly into the integral clips within
the plastic case.
Fig.3 shows the PC board component overlay and wiring layout. Install
the resistors first, using Table 1 as a
guide to the colour codes for each
value. Then insert the PC stakes at the
input terminals, the antenna output,
the RF output from the modulator and
the three anchor points for the vertical
shield between the RF output and the
3-terminal regulators.
Install the video modulator and be
sure to solder its three earth pins to the
PC board groundplane. The RF output
from the modulator requires an RCA
plug to be inserted with a short length
1 PC board, code 02405991,
105 x 60mm
1 single sided blank PC board,
15 x 50mm
1 front panel label, 125 x 65mm
1 VHF video modulator (Jaycar
LM 3850)
1 plastic case, 130 x 68 x 41mm
1 12VAC 300mA plugpack
1 balun former 1050/2/F29, L1
2 RCA panel-mount sockets
2 DC panel sockets
1 TV telescopic antenna
1 RCA line plug
1 150mm length of 0.63mm
enamelled copper wire
1 150mm length of medium duty
hookup wire
2 spade or eyelet connectors
1 6mm spacer
1 M3 x 15mm screw and two
nuts
1 M3 x 10mm screw, star washer
and two nuts
14 PC stakes
Semiconductors
2 uPC1688G wideband
amplifiers (IC1,IC2d) (DSE
Z-6011)
1 7805 5V regulator (REG1)
1 7812 12V regulator (REG2)
1 BC337 NPN transistor (Q1)
4 1N4004 1A diodes (D1-D4)
Capacitors
1 470µF 25VW PC electrolytic
3 470µF 16VW PC electrolytic
5 10µF 16VW PC electrolytic
4 .01µF ceramic
4 .001µF ceramic
Resistors (1%, 0.25W)
1 10kΩ
2 82Ω
1 1kΩ horizontal trimpot, VR2
1 100Ω horizontal trimpot, VR1
of hookup wire soldered to the centre
terminal. This centre terminal wire
connects to the PC stake as shown.
Solder a short length of wire at the
side of the RCA plug and connect it
to the earth PC stake.
The remaining components can
now be mounted. The electroly
tic
capacitors must be inserted with
the correct polarity while the small
ceramic types can be inserted either
JULY 1999 39
The vertical shield piece consists of a piece of blank 15 x 50mm PC board and
is installed by soldering it to three PC stakes, as shown here. A piece of tinplate
could also be used for the shield if you don’t have any blank PC board.
way round. The codes marked on the
side indicate their value and Table 2
shows the possible markings for the
two values used in this circuit. The
ceramic capacitors should be mounted
as close as possible to the PC board.
The 100Ω trimpot (VR1) may be
marked with a 101 code while the 1kΩ
trimpot (VR2) may be marked 102. Install these in the positions shown. Diodes D1-D4 must be oriented as shown
and when installing the regulators be
sure you position the 5V one (REG1)
nearest to diode D2. The regulators are
mounted with a 6mm spacer between
them, with a 15mm M3 screw and nut
clamping them together. This acts as
a form of heatsinking for REG1 and
as an earth point for the supply filter.
The vertical shield is made from a
piece of blank PC board (or tinplate)
measuring 15 x 50mm. It is mounted
as shown by soldering the copper to
all three of the PC stakes.
Amplifiers IC1 & IC2 are tiny
surface-mount devices which are
mounted on the copper side of the PC
board. The surface-mount package is
rectangular with a tab connection at
each corner. You will need a soldering
iron with a very small tip and ideally,
you should use a desk mount magnifier lamp when doing the job. You will
certainly need it to identify pin 1 on
each uPC1688G package. It is slightly
wider than the remaining three pins
and must be positioned as shown on
the PC board.
Inductor L1 is wound as shown in
Fig.4. Use 0.6mm enamelled copper
wire and wind on two coils of five
turns each, in the directions shown,
for L1a and L1b.
Use the panel label as a guide to
drilling the holes for the RCA sockets
and the DC sockets in the side of the
box. A 3mm hole is also required for
the antenna mounting screw which is
positioned adjacent the antenna output PC pin. Drill out these holes and
position the PC board in the box. Wire
up the antenna to an eyelet terminal
and secure it with the 3mm screw, star
washers and two nuts.
If you do not want to use a tele
scopic antenna, you can use a length
of wire instead.
Fit the RCA sockets and wire these
up with hookup wire. The 12V DC
socket can also be connected with
hookup wire. The 12VAC socket is
wired via inductor L1 and the terminals are bypassed with the .01µF
ceramic capacitors. These are earthed
to a solder lug eyelet which is secured
to the screw located on the regulator
tabs.
Testing
With all the wiring complete, check
your work carefully against the dia-
PIN 1
PIN 1
You will need to use a fine-tipped soldering iron, a pair of
tweezers and a magnifying lamp when soldering the two
uPC1688G wideband amplifiers (circled) to the copper
side of PC board. Be sure to correctly identify pin 1 (the
wider pin) of each IC before soldering it into place.
40 Silicon Chip
This close-up view shows how the telescopic antenna
is mounted on the side of the case using an M3 x 10mm
machine screw, two nuts and a star washer. If you don’t
want to use a telescopic antenna, you can use a length of
wire instead.
The two 3-terminal regulators are bolted together with a 6mm spacer between
them, using a 15mm M3 screw and nut. This acts as a form of heatsinking for
REG1 (5V). Be sure to orient these two device correctly; their metal tabs both
face towards the shield piece.
grams of Fig.2 & Fig.3. Then apply
12V from an AC (or DC) plugpack
to the input socket and measure the
voltage at the outputs of REG1 and
REG2. You should obtain +5V and
+12V respectively. The supply pins
to IC1 and IC2 can be measured on
the .01µF capacitor leads and should
be +5V. Similarly, the input and
output DC voltages on IC1 & IC2 can
be measured on the .001µF coupling
capacitors. They should be +0.91V
on the input and about +3.3V at the
output.
You can test the transmitter by
applying a video signal to the input.
This signal can be obtained from the
output of a VCR, a video camera or
a TV pattern generator. Connect an
antenna to the TV set using a set of
telescopic “rabbit ears”, a “spiral”
dipole or a ribbon cable dipole. Alternatively, you may be able to receive
the signal via your roof mounted TV
antenna.
Adjust trimpot VR1 slightly anticlockwise from its fully clockwise
setting and set VR2 fully clockwise.
Check that the TV can receive the
signal transmitted by tuning the TV
set to the transmitted channel. The
channel switch on the video modulator is channel 0 when positioned
towards the outside of the case and on
channel 1 when positioned towards
the RF socket.
Now adjust VR1 for the best picture
contrast. In some cases, you may need
to adjust VR2 slightly anticlockwise
to improve the contrast from a video
camera. You should not need to use
this adjustment when the video signal
is from a good program source such as
from a VCR recording or off-air signal.
Antenna adjustments
If you want the maximum range
from the Video Transmitter you will
need to carefully adjust the element
length of both receiving and transmitting antennas and make sure that both
antennas are oriented identically. For
example, they can be mounted both
upright or both horizontal.
For channel 0, the antenna can be
1/4-wavelength (whip) at 810mm
long or half wavelength (dipole) at
1.62m. The channel 1 antenna length
should be 660mm (whip) or 1.3m
(dipole). Note that these lengths may
need to be made about 5-10% shorter
to compensate for the effect of the
antenna thickness on the radiation
impedance. You can make small adjustments to the antenna lengths to
obtain the best transmission.
In most cases, a nominal 1/4-wavelength whip antenna on the transmitter will give good results but
1/2-wavelength antennas will provide
better distance reception.
Note that we have not provided an
on/off switch for the Video Transmitter. This is because it is envisaged that
the transmitter will mainly be used
for surveillance cameras where the
power will be on all the time.
Alternatively, if the transmitter
is used to send signals to a second
TV set for occasional usage, you can
turn the transmitter off by switching off the plugpack at the power
point, by unplugging the plugpack
from the Video Transmitter socket or
by installing a switch in the Video
SC
Transmitter box.
JULY 1999 41
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
TV servicing can be frustrating
A most frustrating experience is to expend
lot of time, money and effort on a set, only
to find that it has to be written off anyway.
One of my stories this month emphasises
this downside of servicing.
Mr Walter’s TV set is a Samsung
CB230Z 30cm AC/DC model, employing a TK-100 chassis. This model
is unusual in that the power supply
is designed and manufactured for
Sam
sung by another manufacturer.
Furthermore, there are at least three
variants on the power supply circuit
that I know of, with each version
becoming more complex. Consequent-
ly, when they fail, the latest version
is harder to fix than the earlier ones.
By the time I received this set, it had
already been “fixed” several times by
a person or persons unknown, leaving
it for me to guess what parts had been
replaced and whether they were the
correct replacements. The first thing I
did was to obtain the service manual
with most of the modifications added,
which established that it was approximately similar to a “version three”,
with a few additional parts.
The power supply had destroyed
itself fairly violently, with a shattered
mains fuse and a short-circuited
IC901 (STR58041). I also found that
resistors R908 (0.22Ω) and R913 (10Ω)
were burnt. As these were closely
associated with transis
t or Q901
(2SC2335), I measured it and it too
was faulty.
Measuring and checking all the
other components didn’t show much
else wrong. I replaced resistors R903
and R916 (180kΩ) to be on the safe
side but everything else looked OK.
I didn’t replace the electrolytic capacitors as they looked fairly new.
I then switched the power
supply on carefully, using a
200W globe in series to limit
the current. The set came on
without distress and even with
the globe removed, it was quite
content, delivering 24V to the
set, which gave a good picture
and sound.
I let it run for the rest of
the day and it was still going well five hours later.
The heatsinks were
warm without being hot and I was
quite happy to
pronounce it fit
and well.
Pyrotechnics
The owner
couldn’t pick it
up straight away
so I left it on test.
Of course, you can
guess what happened when he finally showed. I was
demonstrating the set
to him, flicking channels
with the remote control, and
everything was fine until I
switched it to standby and
42 Silicon Chip
then on again.
The noise was spectacular, as
were the pyrotechnics which almost
matched my red face. As you can imagine, Mr Walters was not impressed.
When he had gone and the smell
and smoke had subsided, it was
back on to the bench. I replaced
all the parts I had already
changed and I also fitted new
EXR electrolytic capacitors for
C915 (10µF, 100V) and C913
(47µF, 100V) for good measure.
EXR capacitors are a new range
of 105°C types, designed for
switchmode power supplies.
This turned out to be the right
move because what I thought
were new capacitors were actually very clean original
Samsung units. And
this, I believe, was
what had caused
the trouble because, even a week
later with constant
switching on and off
with the remote control, the set
was still working.
Mr Waters kept asking me
about the length of the warranty
and wasn’t happy until I wrote
down an extra three months on
top of the three months I normally
give. I don’t normally do this but in
the circumstances, he probably had
a point.
A frustrating failure
My next customer was a Mr Milano, who has a large extended family so, naturally, when his Philips
21CT8873/75Z (KR5187R) TV set
stopped, he took it to his cousin Angelo who fixes hifi systems. Angelo kept
the set for about three months before
finally admitting that he couldn’t fix
it. Actually, I think his excuse was “I
can’t get the parts . . .”
Mr Milano finally decided to give
it to me for a second opinion. At first
I thought the repair was going to be
straightforward as the mains fuse kept
blowing. I hoped it would just be a
faulty bridge rectifier or dual posistor.
Unfortunately it wasn’t. It was the
chopper transistor, BUW12A (7687),
which was short circuit.
This sent alarm bells ringing. This
set (2BS chassis) uses a SOPS (Self
Oscillating Power Supply) and if the
chopper transistor goes, it is usually
due to loss of oscillation. That’s be
cause the chopper is turned full-on
continuously, destroying itself and
all its drivers.
This means that the feedback circuit has to be checked for faults before
switching it back on – very carefully
– with a Variac. If there is no feedback
and no oscillation, the chopper will
again self-destruct immediately, so
the Variac has to be used very judiciously above 90V, while monitoring
the 140V rail.
Also, to protect the secondary circuits, it is a good idea to short the base
and emitter of the horizontal output
transistor (25D1577PV) to turn it off
and connect a 100W globe load to the
140V rail instead. And although the
SOPS is short-circuit proof, it is wise
to check there are no shorts on each
of the five voltage rails, otherwise one
could get misleading results. The SCR
(6727) should also be checked.
Unsoldered parts
It was while I was preparing to do
all this that I noticed various components were unsoldered, which made
me even more concerned. So, just to
be cautious, I spent some considera-
ble time checking these components
with the ohmmeter. The haul I collected included the horizontal output
transistor, the two SOPS drivers, the
optocoupler and fuse 1601 (125mA).
After replacing these I set to work,
using the Variac to wind up the input
voltage. I took it right up to 240V
without any drama and the 140V rail
was stable.
Unfortunately, when I removed the
shorts, globe and Variac, the set fired
up but nothing happened. The 140V
rail had dropped dramatically and the
horizontal output transistor was very
hot. I diagnosed that the horizontal
output transformer (5620) was almost
certainly faulty. This is very common
on the 2BS chassis – and also presents
the difficulty of unsoldering the legs
through the rivets.
OK, so this repair was going to be
expensive but this was commensurate
with the set’s features. It is, after all, a
51cm stereo remote TV set and looks
the part. It cost about $1500 in 1988
and this one was well looked after.
But wait; there’s more.
After the new horizontal output
transformer was fitted, I expected
JULY 1999 43
Silicon Chip
Binders
Serviceman’s Log – continued
These binders will protect your
copies of S ILICON CHIP. They
feature heavy-board covers & are
made from a dis
tinctive 2-tone
green vinyl. They hold up to 14
issues & will look great on your
bookshelf.
to see a picture but no. We still had
almost exactly the same symptoms.
The 140V rail could still be restored
by shorting out the base and emitter
of the horizontal output transistor
(7618), so I concluded that either the
new transformer was faulty or there
was a short across its secondary from
some other part of the circuit.
DC checks revealed that the four
voltage rails derived from the transformer were OK, as indeed were all
the other circuits connected to it. After
removing the jumper across the base/
emitter leads of the horizontal output
transistor, I unplugged the leads (D17)
to the horizontal deflection yoke.
Everything now came on properly,
with the 140V rail at its correct level.
Removing the deflection yoke finally
revealed a sorry mess that had been
responsible for all the trouble.
Hold up to 14 issues
Stopgap yoke
80mm internal width
The next problem was to replace the
yoke (5990), as it was beyond repair.
The yoke is not listed as a spare part
and is only sold with the self-converging picture tube A51 EBS60X.
Initially, I found and fitted an old
deflection coil from a KT3 chassis, to
confirm that my diagnosis was correct.
That restored the picture, even though
REAL
VALUE
AT
$12.95
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44 Silicon Chip
the geometry and convergence were
wrong. The closest deflection yoke
available as a spare part was a type
4822 150 10282. However, this is not
designed for use with a self-converging picture tube like this.
Although others have had some
limited success fitting this yoke on
this tube, I have found the dynamic
convergence to be unacceptable. This
particularly applies to the top and
bottom of the screen where it is over
2mm out, even when an additional
magnet ring assembly is fitted and
adjusted carefully. The impedance of
the coils matches close enough, the
horizontal being 2Ω and the vertical
13Ω, but the coil construction layout
is completely different.
The final straw
The sad thing was that this was the
straw that finally broke the camel’s
back. The additional cost of even a
substitute yoke, giving a not-so-good
picture, could not be justified for an
11-year old set and so it had to be
scrapped. To ease my pain for the
amount of time spent on it, Mr Milano
gave me the set for spares and it now
sits in the corner supporting other
junked sets. And he went out and
SC
bought a new one. Ce la vie.
Acknowledgements To Reader’s Letters
I would like to acknowledge two
letters from readers offering advice,
prompted by stories in recent columns. These letters were published
in the May 1999 “Mailbag” pages.
First, I am indebted to Mr T. Cairn
ey for his five minute replacement
technique tip for the Akai loading arm
block (prompted by the Akai VP170
story, January 1999). This technique
is fine if the spring doesn’t come off
with its broken axle (which it invariably
does) and lodges between the white
slide plate and jams the mechanism.
Then, unfortunately, the only answer
is to remove the deck.
It is interesting to see some of
the decks fitted in this series of Akai
VCRs; many differ considerably from
the exploded diagrams in the service
manuals.
Second, I was very interested in
Paul Schick’s comments (prompted
by the Masuda T1092 story, April
1999) on why diodes get hot. I find
it very difficult to get specifications
and equivalent books or software on
diodes or, indeed, any information
at all on the huge variety available.
This sometimes makes it extremely
difficult to find substitutes that work.
I would find it very useful to have
the differences between the various
diode types explained. These include
high-speed switch
i ng, switching,
modulator, controlled avalanche,
valley point current and general purpose types.
It would also be useful to have a
reference that deals with the number
codes for zener diodes, which differ
between manufacturers.
SILICON
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PRODUCT SHOWCASE
7500A Universal Clamp
When Tech Rentals say
they have a high current universal clamp meter available,
they mean high current: this
Technic P75.3C clamp meter
measures up to 7500A, AC
or DC.
It is intended to be used
in conjunction with a voltmeter, chart recorder or
oscilloscope, having no
readout device of its own but
giving a DC voltage output in
proportion to the measured
current. Output “full scale”
is 1.5V for a 7500A current.
Using a Hall-effect sensor, the clamp covers a range
of DC to 1000Hz and can clamp a cable up to 83mm in
diameter, and busbars of 122 x 54mm or 100 x 64mm.
For more information, contact Tech Rentals, 12 Maroondah Hwy, Ringwood, Vic 3134. Phone 1800 632
652; fax (03) 9879 4310
Speakerphone + Caller ID from DSE
A new phone from Dick Smith
Electronics features both hands-free
(speakerphone) operation and an
inbuilt caller ID display.
The LCD screen displays the
caller's number and, if that
number is programmed into
memory, the name of the
caller.
Up to 13 numbers
can be stored (including 3 one-touch
redial) and the phone
remembers the previous 99 calls for later
review, if required.
The DSE Speakerphone with Caller ID (model F 4518)
also has mute, redial, recall, flash and pause buttons plus
adjustable ringer tone and volume.
With a recommended retail price of $98 it is available
from Dick Smith Electronics Stores, resellers and the Direct
Link mail order service.
Two very different power supplies
The programmable Californian Instruments 2001RP
precision AC power supply can provide up to 2000VA at
frequencies from 16Hz to 5000Hz. A Windows graphical
interface permits control of the supply from a PC.
Intended for such tasks as development and ATE, it can
provide high peak currents and power factors of 0.0 to 1.0
without derating.
An optional power meter module provides measurements
including RMS current, voltage, true power, crest factor
and peak current, thus allowing the 2001RP to be used as
a “single box” power test system. An optional IEEE488 or
RS232 interface is also available.
For more information, contact Westek Industrial Products, Unit 2, 6-10 Maria St, Laverton Nth, Vic 3026. Phone
(03) 9369 8802; fax (03) 9369 8006; email westek<at>projectx.
com.au
By contrast, this is a more “traditional” supply from
Nilsen Technologies. The Thurlby-Thandar EX725M
multi-mode power supply has two independent, fully
isolated adjustable outputs of 0 - 75V DC at 2A each,
or can operate in a single mode delivering an output
of 150V DC <at> 2A, or 75V DC <at> 4A.
It is provided with special safety binding posts which
can accept spade terminals, 4mm plugs or bare-end
wires without exposing any metal parts.
For more information, contact Nilsen Technologies,
150 Oxford Street, Collingwood, Vic 34066. Phone 1800
623 350; fax 1800 067 263.
JULY 1999 53
PCB Mounting Toroidal Transformers Learning Remote
Mounting any
transformer on a PC
board can be difficult
if they are not intended for the task but
toroidal transformers
are often more difficult. That’s why these
new series of 10VA
and 30VA toroidals
from Altronics are
likely to be welcomed
by manufacturers and enthusiasts
alike.
The transformers are “potted” before
being encased in a finned plastic case.
A thermal fuse is also fitted. All connections are via the PC board mounting
pins which are close to the four corners
of the case, with provision also made
for a centre self-tapping bolt for extra
stability or security.
The smaller 10VA model, cat no
M4506, measures 53mm square x 28mm
high. The larger 30VA model measures
Snap-in IEC mains
filter with the works!
for up to 10 devices
63mm square x 33mm high. Both have
two 120V primaries, obviously to be
connected in series for 240V AC.
There are four transformers in each
range. Each has two identical secondaries which can be series or parallel
connected.
The 10VA model has 6+6V <at> 0.83A,
9+9V <at> 0.5A, 12+12V <at> 0.4A and
15+15V <at> 0.3A. The 30VA model has
6+6V <at> 2.5A, 9+9V <at> 1.6A, 12+12V <at>
1.2A and 15+15V <at> 1.0A.
For more information, contact Altronic Distributors in Perth (08 9328
2199), Altronics resellers around
Australia or refer to page 63 of the
1999/2000 Altronics Catalog.
This 10-in-1 learning remote control can control up to
10 devices, with 47
storage keys for each
device. It features multi-codes, multi-languages, label editing,
programmable macros,
a liquid crystal display
with back-lighting,
date/time alarm function and more.
The macro feature
allows the user to
transmit up to 20 codes
at once, with just 2
buttons. It suits most
brands of equipment controlled by
infrared remotes such as TV sets, CD
and DVD players, video cassette recorders, amplifiers and so on. It has a
recommended retail price of $129.95
(Cat AR-1708)
For more information, contact any
Jaycar Electronics store or their head
office on (02) 9743 5222; fax(02)
97432066. (www.jaycar.com.au)
New gas soldering irons from Altronics
Westek Industrial Products have
released this Schaffner “snap into
place” IEC mains input connector
which also incorporates a filter, mains
switch, fuse holders and voltage
selector.
The FN300 is IEC 950 compliant
and snaps into an appropriate mounting hole without screws or nuts. Two
sets of metal fingers provide excellent
contact with panels and the filter
earth terminals, ensuring good high
frequency performance.
The unit has a double-pole mains
switch, 115/230V selector and filters
which operate over the mains frequency range of 50-400Hz.
For more information, contact Westek Industrial Products, Unit 2, 6-10
Maria St, Laverton Nth, Vic 3026.
Phone (03) 9369 8802, fax (03) 9369
8006, email westek<at>projectx.com.au
54 Silicon Chip
Whether you’re looking for a small
soldering iron for delicate jobs or a
larger model with plenty of heat, Altronics Distributors say they have you
covered with these two gas-powered
models from Iroda. Both models use
liquid butane as used in many cigarette
lighters.
The Solderpro 50 is a 50W model
with a tip temperature of between
210°C and 400°C, depending on setting. At mid-setting it gives around
30 minutes of soldering capacity with
a full tank.
With cap, the iron measures 153mm
long and weighs 60g. The cap also
contains a lighter. The recommended retail price of this iron (cat no.
T2595) is $29.95.
The larger Solderpro 100 is a
120W model with a tip temperature up to 500°C. With a larger
20ml tank, it can give around 120
minutes at mid setting. This model
is significantly larger at 233mm
(including cap) and weighs 142g. It
also includes an auto-igniter: when
the iron is turned on, a piezo igniter
lights the gas. This iron sells for
$69.00 (Cat no. T2598)
Neither iron is supplied with butane: this is available from Altronics
or from many tobacco shops, hardware
stores and some supermarkets. Both
irons are supplied with a standard
soldering tip; a range of spare tips, including an air blower and blow torch,
is available for the 120W model.
For more information, contact Altronic Distributors in Perth (08 9328
2199), Altronics resellers around
Australia or refer to page 98 of the
1999/2000 Altronics Catalog.
486 motherboards with
CPU – less than $20!
Oatley Electronics has
available a brand new PC
motherboard, complete
with 486/40 processor, for
the princely sum of $18.00
(plus p&p).
The motherboard is a
“baby AT” size, measuring
just 180 x 220mm but has
standard mounting hole
positions and standard locations for expansion slots
and keyboard connector,
so it should fit a standard
PC case.
The board is supplied with a “UMC” brand 40MHz
486SX chip but with a bus speed of 25, 33 or 40MHz,
will also handle AMD, Cyrix and Intel chips up to DX4/75 and DX-4/100 in the standard socket 5 configuration.
An unusual feature is the inclusion of both 30 and 72pin SIM sockets, giving a maximum RAM of 32MB. The
motherboard can also support cache memory from 32K
to 512K. There are five 16-bit and one 8-bit expansion
sockets and Award ROM Bios is supplied.
The question must be asked, of course, “why on earth
would anyone these days want or need a 486 motherboard?”
At $18 and brand new, these Y2K compliant mother-boards would make an excellent upgrade path for an
old PC – a 386, 286 or perhaps even an old 8086 machine.
They could also be used in a variety of control applications or, with the addition of a power supply, RAM,
I/O cards and a monitor, as a “test bed” for hardware or
software which you don’t want to risk running on your
main PC.
For more information, contact Oatley Electronics on (02)
9584 3563, email oatley<at>world.net or via their website,
www.oatleyelectronics.com.au
FULL RANGE
ELECTROSTATIC
$2990!
INTRODUCTORY PRICE
N
ow you can afford the
legendary clarity,
transparency, depth, dimension and precision that only an
electrostatic speaker can deliver.
The new Vass ELS-5 is a full range
electrostatic speaker that consists
of dual electrostatic panels with
separate bass and treble sections
to cover the entire frequency range
between 40Hz and 20kHz.
Diaphragm mass equivalent to
a sheet of air 3mm thick
5 year warranty
Wide selection of finishes
available
Each speaker individually hand
built and tested
Four other models priced from
$6,990 to $25,000
Also available, the Vass SW-P pyramidal
subwoofer designed to complement electrostatic speakers in high ceiling rooms,
RRP $1,500
TOROIDAL POWER
TRANSFORMERS
We exclusively use and recommend ME amplifiers. Please
contact us for a demonstration of this brilliant combination
•
•
UNIT 1, 42-44 GARDEN BVDE,
DINGLEY, VICTORIA 3172
Manufactured in Australia
Comprehensive data available
HARBUCH ELECTRONICS PTY LTD
9/40 Leighton Pl. HORNSBY 2077
Ph (02) 9476-5854 Fx (02) 9476-3231
ELECTRONICS
PH (03) 9558 0970
Fax (03) 9558 0082
email: vass<at>hotkey.net.au
JULY 1999 55
ECTRONICSHOWCASELEC
MicroZed Computers
GENUINE STAMP PRODUCTS
FROM
Scott Edwards Electronics
microEngineering Labs & others
Easy to learn, easy to use, sophisticated
CPU based controllers & peripherals.
PO Box 634, ARMIDALE 2350
(296 Cook’s Rd)
Ph (02) 6772 2777 – may time out to
Mobile 0409 036 775 Fax (02) 6772 8987
http://www.microzed.com.au
Most Credit Cards OK
Need prototype
PC boards?
We have the solutions –
we print electronics!
• Four-day turnaround, less if urgent
• Artwork from your own positive or file
• Through hole plating • Prompt postal service
• 29 years technical experience
• Inexpensive • Superb quality
NEW FROM
QUESTRONIX
DVS5 Video & Audio
Distribution Amplifier
DVS5
Video & Audio
Distribution
Amplifier
VGS2
Graphics
Splitter
Five identical Video and Stereo
outputs plus h/phone & monitor
out. S-Video & Composite versions
available. Professional quality.
VGS2 Graphics Splitter
High resolution 1in/2out VGA
splitter. Comes with 1.5m
HQ cable and 12V supply.
Custom-length HQ VGA
cables also available.
Check our NEW website for latest prices and
MONTHLY SPECIALS
www.questronix.com.au
Email - questav<at>questronix.com.au
Video Processors, Colour Correctors, Stabilisers, TBC's, Converters, etc.
QUESTRONIX
All mail: PO Box 548, Wahroonga NSW 2076
Ph (02) 9477 3596 Fax (02) 9477 3681
Visitors by appointment only
Do you want YOUR
product or service
showcased to
Australasia's most
important electronics
marketplace?
Printed Electronics
12A Aristoc Rd, Glen Waverley, Vic 3150.
Phone: (03) 9545 3722 Fax: (03) 9545 3561
Call Mike Lynch and check us out!
We are the best for low cost, small runs.
SWITCHMODE POWER SUPPLIES
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Melbourne: (03) 9335 3333
Sydney: (02) 9899 4599
CALL ME:
RICK WINKLER
on (02) 9979 5644
and let me explain how cost
effective the SILICON CHIP
ELECTRONICS SHOWCASE
can be for YOU!
6 Sarich Court, Technology Park, Bentley WA 6102
Ph: 08 9470 1177 Fax 08 9470 2844
web: www.computronics.com
Silicon Chip Binders 129
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56 Silicon Chip
56 Silicon Chip
CTRONICSHOWCASELECTR
BUSINESS FOR SALE:
SPEAKER SALE
For the very first time we are having
a sale of selected loudspeaker drivers
from the prestige MOREL line.
On sale are two drivers:
MW 265
222mm Shielded Woofer,
Fs 30Hz ,Vas 88.6L Qts 0.44
Power 150W
Hexatech voice coil
Normally $190
DMS 30S
•
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NOW $130
27mm Shielded Dome Tweeter,
94mm dia. Fs 650Hz Power 200W
Hexatech voice coil
Double chambered Sens 90dB
Normally $129
•
Escape to the sun in beautiful Coffs Harbour!
Stable electronic retail business
Easily run by husband and wife team.
Agent for GSM carrier
Access to large electronics suppliers (niche market).
Very strong customer base inc Government depts
and schools etc.
Five year rental option on current highway premises.
Full figures available.
Current owners (12 years) are moving to a new
business.
Price only $55,000 + SAV.
Enquiries: Hunter & Associates (02) 6651 6818
NOW $75
All other MOREL products
available – many ex-stock
We are sole Australian Distributors for:
•
CLIO Electro-Acoustic Measurements
• SOFIA Vacuum Tube Curve Tracer
• JASPER Power Router Circle Jigs
Australian Audio Consultants
PO Box 11, Stockport SA 5410
Phone / Fax 08-85-282-201
E-mail aac<at>rbe.net.au
IN YOUR NEXT ISSUE OF
Items planned for the August issue*, due on sale at your newsagents July 28. Subscribers receive their copies a little earlier.
POWERED COOLER
Take one commercial cooler, add this Peltier-effect
device and you have a cooler that really keeps the
cans cold! Operates from your car's cigarette lighter.
LIGHTS ON FOR SAFETY
Clever circuit runs your car's headlights at
about 80% brightness during the day so you
can be seen – but full brilliance at night.
* These features currently in production but are subject to alteration
PLUS:
• COMPUTER MONITOR MONITOR – Check out any EGA/VGA monitor
• X-Y Table – Controlling the stepper motors
• Plus a special feature on HOME THEATRE – all you need to know
And all the popular features:
• Serviceman's Log • Circuit Notebook • Radio Control
• Product Showcase • Vintage Radio • Ask SILICON CHIP
SUBSCRIBE TO SILICON CHIP AND $AVE!
As a subscriber, you will not only receive your copy
earlier – you will actually save money!
Check it out: 12 issues from the news-stand = $71.40;
1 year subscription: $59 AND we pay the postage!
See the handy order form on page 67 of this issue.
JULY 1999 57
JUNE 1999 57
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions from
readers are welcome and will be paid for at standard rates.
DTMF decoder and
1Hz timebase
The MC145436 Motorola DTMF decoder chip, if fitted with a 3.579545Hz
crystal, will decode the standard international DTMF codes as used by most
telephone dialing systems around the
world, and by other DTMF equipment
such as mobile phones, answering
machines, etc.
If the MC145436 chip is fitted with
a 3.2768MHz crystal, as shown in the
diagram, and if the matching encoder
chip, TCM5087, is fitted with the same
frequency crystal, then the MC145436
chip will decode the “modified”
DTMF tones successfully but not decode the standard international tones.
This modified DTMF code structure
could have applications where remote
controlled equipment systems are
custom-made.
A second useful result of this circuit
is to provide an accurate crystal-locked
1Hz timebase which is better than an
RC time-constant method, suitable
for digital clock circuits or precise
one second timing circuits and applications.
The MC145436 chip has a divide-by-8 output on pin 11, which divides the 3.2768MHz frequency down
to 409,600Hz. This frequency is then
divided down by the 4020 counter, by
a factor of 16,384, to 25Hz. The two
4018 counters then divide the 25Hz
output down to 1Hz. The 4081 AND
gates are required to enable the 4018
to divide by the odd number of 5.
P. Howarth,
Gunnedah, NSW. ($35)
Auto nicad
charger with float
This circuit was built to
charge a 7.2V 1800mA.h battery pack for an underwater
flash gun and it utilises the
supplied DC plugpack for the
power supply.
When the battery pack
is connect
ed, the normally
closed pushbutton switch
S1 is momentarily pressed to
turn the charger on and the
red LED operates, indicating
charging (about 200mA) via
Q1 and R1. When the battery
voltage exceeds about 9V (ie,
when the battery is charged), the
output of comparator IC1 goes high
58 Silicon Chip
to trigger SCR1 which turns off Q1.
The green LED also operates and
a low (about 40mA) trickle charge is
then supplied via R2 & R1.
P. Boyle,
Edithvale, Vic. ($30)
Rev limiter modification
for points distributors
One of the drawbacks of the Rev
Limiter (April 1999) is that it will
produce quite rough engine operation on older cars which have
points distributors. This is because
its rev limiting action will confuse
its own speed sensing circuit by
also interrupting the engine timing
pulses from the points.
Mains-powered
remote control tester
This handy remote control tester
will respond to the signal from any
infrared handpiece and will light the
LED and sound the buzzer (if fitted).
The 5V DC supply for the IR receiver
and transistor Q1 is derived directly
from the 240VAC mains supply via
the 1µF capacitor and 100Ω limiting
resistor. The 5.6V zener diode and
1N4004 diode set the supply to 5V
and it is filtered by the 470µF capacitor. The IR receiver can be obtained
from an old VCR or can be purchased
from Oatley Electronics or Dick Smith
Electronics.
The solution is to
add a “sample and
hold” circuit to hold
the output of the
LM2917 speed sensing circuit constant
while the ignition
blocking action is
taking place. This is done by using
Mosfet Q5 as an analog switch
between pin 3, the output of the
frequency to voltage converter in
the LM2917, and pin 4, its non-inverting comparator input. The gate
of the Mosfet is controlled by the
signal from the collector of Q3 on
the Ignition Switcher PC board.
What happens is this: when the
Ignition Switcher is inac
tive (ie,
no rev limiting taking place), the
collector of Q3 is high and Mosfet
Q5 is on, connecting pin 4 to pin 3
of the LM2917. When the Ignition
Switcher is active, the collector of
Q3 is low and Mosfet Q5 is off and
so the voltage stored at pin 4 by the
2.2µF capacitor provides the “hold”
action. The result is smoother rev
limiting action.
Note: this modification is applicable only to older cars with points
distributors.
Brett Hirshman,
West Pymble, NSW ($35)
WARNING! ALL PARTS in this circuit operate at 240VAC. Do
not build it unless you know exactly what you are doing.
Since the circuit is directly powered
from the 240VAC supply, all parts
operate at high voltage. This means
that it must be fully isolated from the
user by safely building it into a plastic
case or an earthed metal enclosure.
Lee Martin,
Belconnen, ACT. ($25)
JULY 1999 59
Last month, we presented
part 1 of this 2-part article
on the Programmable
Ignition Timing module
which is teamed up with
our High Energy
Ignition System, as
described in the June
1998 issue. This month
we give the details of
installation and
programming.
By ANTHONY NIXON
Pt.2: Installation & Programming
A
S WE NOTED LAST month,
do not attempt to hook up the
PIT module to the High Energy
Ignition (HEI) system until you have
had the HEI system running in your
car for at least a few weeks. This is
good practical advice, as a number of
constructors have installed the two
systems straight into their cars and
then had a torrid time trying to get it
all working.
So now we assume that you have
the HEI installed and working and
that the PIT module has been assem60 Silicon Chip
bled and the initial checks have been
performed.
The exact installation of the PIT
module will depend on your particular vehicle but it should be somewhere not too obvious. Don’t mount
the unit in the engine compartment
though, as the parts are not rated for
high temperatures. The keypad can
be removed from the PC board after
programming if you wish, as an added
security measure.
Be sure to run all the wiring in a
professional manner, using automo-
tive cable and connectors to ensure
reliability.
HEI connections
You will need to make five wire
connections from the PIT module
to the HEI board, as shown in Fig.8.
The +12V supply from the ignition
switch is fed to the HEI board, which
then supplies 12V and 0V for the
PIT module. A +5V connection is
taken from the 78L05 (REG1) on the
PIT module to the HEI to power the
MC3334P chip. Two other wires are
used to connect the “Trigger In” from
the HEI board and the output from the
PIT module to pin 5 of the MC3334P
on the HEI board.
DO NOT connect a separate ground
wire from the PIT module to the vehicle chassis. If the ground wire from
the HEI board goes open-circuit, the
high coil currents will try to flow
through the small PC board tracks
on the PIT module, possibly causing
them to burn off and damage the ICs.
Vacuum switch
Fig.9 shows the mounting details
for microswitch S1. It is mounted on
a rightangle bracket which is attached
to the vacuum actuator. The arm of the
microswitch sits in a slot cut into the
vacuum actuator and in the absence
of vacuum, is normally held down.
When vacuum is present, the actuator
moves upward and the microswitch
arm releases.
Be sure to connect the leads to the
microswitch exactly as shown; ie, the
lead from pin 3 of the PIC goes to the
contact marked “NO”). As mentioned
previously, the advance plate in the
distributor must be clamped with the
weights in the outward position. If
you do not wish to use the electronic
vacuum advance, then you can leave
the original setup as is and leave the
vacuum advance input (RA4) disconnected.
Another use for the vacuum advance input is to interface it to the
Knock Sensor project, as published in
the April 1996 issue of SILICON CHIP.
The filtered output from the knock
sensor is fed to an LM311 comparator.
When this voltage goes higher than
that preset on the inverting input pin
3, the output at pin 7 will go high.
When the PIC detects this high it will
retard the ignition by an amount set
This view shows the assembled PC board without the keypad. The keypad plugs
into the connector located near the bottom edge.
by the user. Fig.10 shows the circuit.
In effect, it works in the opposite
manner to which it was intended. As
the output of the LM311 is open-collector, it provides compatibility between the 8V circuitry of the Knock
Sensor and the 5V supply of the PIT
module. Note: this circuit arrangement has not been tested on a vehicle.
Rotor contact modification
Normal ignition advance in a conventional distributor is achieved with
a mechanical setup using bob weights
and springs and the amount of advance depends on the throttle opening and engine RPM. The changes in
advance also change the position at
which the rotor button passes by the
spark lead contacts in the rotor cap
when a spark is produced. To cater
for this, the end of the rotor button
contact is usually flared so that it is
able to conduct the high voltage to
the spark plug contacts over the full
advance range. Fig.11 shows what is
required.
The PIT module has 45° of advance
JULY 1999 61
Fig.8: use this diagram when connecting the PIT module to the HEI system.
available. This means that your rotor
button may need to be modified so
that it will stay in contact with the
spark lead connections over this advance range.
Remember that we are talking about
45° of crank advance. This translates
into 22.5° of distributor advance because the distributor cam turns at half
the speed of the crankshaft.
Therefore the flared end of the rotor
button must be elongated to function
over 22.5° and possibly more, if the
62 Silicon Chip
original vacuum advance is left connected. If the extension is too narrow or too wide, then a spark might
be missed or worse, the spark may
“jump” to the wrong spark contact,
causing misfiring. Fine tuning this
part of the project may require a little
trial and error to get it right.
Initial timing setup
When the engine is first started,
the PIT module retards the ignition
by 45 crank degrees (22.5 distributor
degrees) and stays constant at this
value until the engine RPM reaches
the user programmed MIN RPM value.
The timing will then begin to advance
at the programmed rate.
Before attempting to modify the
distributor or change its position,
make a note or mark the position it is
currently in. In last month’s article,
it was mentioned that the distributor
is modified by wiring its advance
weights in the fully out position and
the vacuum advance plate is clamped
Fig.9: the vacuum actuator is modified to operate a microswitch. At low vacuum, the microswitch arm is held
down. Conversely, when manifold vacuum is high (ie, at light engine loads), the microswitch arm is released.
so that it cannot move. This will give a
certain amount of advance from your
base setting.
Use a protractor to find out how
much “distributor” advance this
is and subtract it from 22.5. If the
answer is positive, advance the dis
tributor from its original position by
this amount. Then when the engine
starts, the PIC will retard the timing
back to the original base setting and
begin advancing it again as the RPM
rises. If the result was negative, the
advance value that your engine gives
is greater than the advance range that
this system can cater for and may
not work.
When the ignition is timed (using
a timing light), the vacuum advance
must be disabled. This is accomplished by removing and blocking
off the vacuum hose so that it has no
effect on the vacuum switch.
Static timing
To time the engine with the engine
stopped (ie, static timing), turn the
crankshaft to the correct position,
then rotate the distributor until the
LED just turns on. This indicates that
the points have just opened. The LED
will be off when the PIC detects that
the points are closed. This method
will not work with a reluctor pickup.
Note that because the LED drive
signal frequency is proportional to
the engine RPM, this signal can be
used to drive a tachometer.
Programming
There are nine parameters that
must be programmed into the PIC to
make up each data set. Every parameter, as well as the correct number
of digits for these parameters, must
be entered. The PIC will monitor the
digit entry and display each numerical keypress.
After the last digit of the last parameter has been entered, only the
centre segment of the display will
be illuminated. If this segment fails
to light, then you have not entered
enough data. If the segment lights
before you have finished, then you
are trying to enter too much data. In
Table 1: Data Set Contents
Parameter
Digits
Example
Mi n RPM
4
0800
Mi d RPM
4
3000
Mi d Advance
2
20
Max RPM
4
500 0
Max Advance
2
30
D w el l
2
20
Vacuum Advance
2
10
C yli nders
2
06
Security Code
2
99
either of these two cases, you must
enter the complete set of data again.
You will notice that the data for the
MIN RPM and Cylinders both have
leading zeros. The MIN RPM value
is allocated four digits, so four digits
must be entered. Similarly, the Cylinders value is allocated two digits,
so two digits must be entered.
You cannot enter an RPM value
that is lower than a previous RPM
value. For example, MID RPM cannot
be lower than the MIN RPM value
of 0800. The PIC has two internal
advance ranges from 30 to 300 RPM
and then from 300 RPM to the MIN
RPM value that you specify and for
this RPM range the timing is fully
retarded.
The MAX Advance value can be
greater than, equal to, or lower than
the MID Advance value. This allows
the second stage advance to have a
retarding effect, if needed, rather than
continuing to advance the timing until MAX RPM is reached. The negative
advance feature is common to both
data sets, which means that if you
want a negative advance setting for
one set, you must also have a negative
advance setting for the other. If one is
positive and the other negative, then
the positive data set will malfunction
(see the note at the end of this article).
The absolute minimum dwell
width that the software will generate
JULY 1999 63
Fig.10: this circuit could be used to enable the PIT module
to operate in conjunction with the Knock Sensor featured
in the April 1996 issue of SILICON CHIP.
Fig.11: the trailing end of the rotor button contact needs to be
extended and the leading edge trimmed to cope with the
modified operation of the distributor. Note that fine tuning this
part of the project may require some trial and error to get it
right.
64 Silicon Chip
is 1ms. In this system, this is the time
that the coil is OFF. If you enter a “00”
value for the Dwell, then a constant
1ms will be set automatically. If any
angle is calculated to be less than 1ms,
then 1ms will be used. In addition,
as the engine RPM increases, a point
may be reached when the dwell width
is calculated to be less than 1ms.
When the PIC detects this, it sets
the minimum to 1ms. The dwell
angle from any input device has no
effect on the system dwell times,
however it is good practice to set the
points normally, as specified by the
manufacturer. The PIC will debounce
the points signal, whether points or
electronic sensors are used.
If you do not wish to use the electronic vacuum advance then enter
“00” for that parameter.
After you enter a security number,
you must remember it. If you forget,
you will not be able to gain access to
the system unless you tediously go
through the 99 code combinations,
one by one. If you do not want to use
a security code then just enter “00”.
You must press the “*” key after
entering all the data as this tells the
PIC to run the calculations and store
the results into the EEPROM. If you
do not do this before removing power,
the new data set will be lost. Due to
memory restrictions, the PIC does not
do any error checking on entered data.
The Cylinder value and the Security Code are common to both data sets.
If you change the cylinder value in
one data set, then you must re-enter
the other data set with the new cylinder value as well and run the calculations again. For example, if you
entered 6 cylinders for data set one,
and afterwards you enter 8 cylinders
for data set two, then the calculations
will be wrong in data set 1 because
they were based on 6 cylinders.
You only have 45° of advance to
“play” with, so any data you enter that
goes outside this range may result in
erratic operation. The software can
handle an advance value plus a dwell
value greater than 45° but as soon as
the points open, the PIC will “chop”
the last timing sequence off in favour
of the new one when it becomes necessary for the coil to be switched off.
This may only result in a shorter
dwell time but it may also result in
misfiring. The software is trying to
cater for a wide range of operating
conditions, but it may not be able to
operate with values that are too far
out of the ordinary.
Operational modes
There are two modes of operation
for this system: Data Entry Mode and
Engine Run Mode. If you look at the
system flow chart featured in last
month’s article, you should be able to
follow how everything works.
If there is no data set stored in EEPROM for the current level, then the
system will power up in Data Entry
Mode and the centre display segment
will be lit. If there is data, then the
system will power up in Engine Run
Mode.
Data Entry Mode
The PIC will be waiting for a keypress to select a particular programming function. These are the ones that
are available:
Function Key
Read RAM 3
Read EEPROM 4
Enter New Data 5
Clear Display 6
Change Data Set 7
Display Data Set 8
Calculate/Store data *
Exit #
•
Read RAM - Key 3: After pressing
this key, repeatedly pushing the “*”
key will display the data stored in
RAM. Each parameter is separated
by a “-” character. If there is no data
in RAM then an error condition will
be displayed. Press key “#” to exit.
• Read EEPROM - Key 4: This transfers the current data set from EEPROM
to RAM. Any previous RAM contents
will be lost but the EEPROM contents
will remain unchanged. After pressing this key, repeatedly pushing the
“*” key will display the data now
stored in RAM. Each parameter is
separated by a “-” character.
If there is no data in the EEPROM
then an error condition will be displayed. Press key “#” to exit.
• Enter New Data - Key 5: After
pressing this button, a “0” will be
displayed and you can then enter a
new data set. From the example in
Table 1, you would enter the data as
follows:
080030002050003020100699
After the last “9” key is pressed, the
display will show “-” to indicate that
all data has been entered.
Because all timing is now controlled electronically, the advance plate inside
the distributor must be securely clamped in the fully-advanced position and its
advance weights wired in the fully out position. In effect, the Programmable
Ignition Timing Module retards the timing from the preset maximum to give the
correct value according to engine speed and load.
If a mistake is made while entering
the data set, you can press the “#” key
to abort. Press key “5” again to restart
the data entry process.
• Clear Display - Key 6:
“-” is displayed.
• Change Data Set - Key 7: This
key alternates between the two data
sets available. When data set one is
selected, “1” is displayed. Similarly,
when data set two is selected, “2” is
displayed.
You can alternate between the two
sets even though they do not have
data stored, but you will not be able to
start the engine if the selected set does
not have valid data. This key can also
be used while the engine is running
but only if both sets have valid data.
• Display Data Set - Key 8: This
key displays the currently selected
data set.
• Calculate/Store Data - Key *: When
this key is pressed, a set of engine operating parameters will be calculated
according to the data that was entered.
The results, along with the user data
in RAM will be stored into EEPROM
so that they are available each time
the ignition is turned on.
If there is no valid data in RAM an
error message will be displayed.
•
Exit - Key #: Pressing this key
terminates functions 3 and 4. If the
system is in Data Entry Mode waiting
for a function to be selected and there
is data available in the current set,
then the system will go into Engine
Run Mode and wait for the engine
to start. If the current data set is not
valid then the system will stay in Data
Entry Mode.
The error condition that is displayed is similar to a “?” character.
Quick programming review
(1) Turn Power on.
(2) Select data set – Key “7”
(3) Begin data entry – Key “5”
(4) Key in data –
eg, 080030002050003020100699
(5) “-” will be displayed
(6) Calculate/Store data – Key “*”
(7) Either enter other data set, back
to step 2, or press key “#” to allow
engine start.
Engine Run Mode
If the “#” key was pressed while in
Data Entry Mode with a valid data set
available, then the current data set
will be displayed, and the system will
wait for the engine to start.
If the system is powered up and
JULY 1999 65
Reprogramming Existing Chips
Any new software can be reprogrammed into your existing chips if they
are sent to the author with a $5.00 fee for postage, etc. There is one small
problem here. Originally the software was written for the PIC 16C84 which
only has 36 bytes of RAM. These chips are now obsolete and were replaced
by the newer 16F84s which have 68 bytes of RAM. The latest software
needs 38 bytes of RAM to operate so the 16C84s cannot be reprogrammed.
Programmed 16F84s are available and are still at the original $27 which
includes postage & packing.
Chips can be returned for reprogramming or ordered from: Anthony
Nixon, 8 Westminster Court, Somerville Vic 3912.
If you return the chip, please make sure it is properly packaged to prevent
mechanical as well as static damage, as no responsibility can be taken by
the author if a chip is damaged in transit.
There is some basic information about the ignition module as well as an
email link at http://www.picnpoke.com
the current data set is valid, then two
things can happen.
If there is no Security Number then
the software will wait for the engine
to start and the display will show the
data set that is being used.
If there is a Security Number then
the display will be blank and you
must type in the exact two-digit code
to unlock the controller. If the wrong
code is entered, then the software will
do nothing at all, so you must turn
the power off and start again. If the
correct code is entered, the software
t
bu
d
e
l
i
o
s
p
o
h
S
E!
C
I
R
P
F
L
HA
will wait for the engine to start and
the display will show the data set that
is being used.
While the PIC is waiting for the
engine to start, you can go into Data
Entry Mode by pressing key “9”. You
cannot do this after the engine starts.
When the engine is running, you
can alternate between data sets by
pressing key “7”. There must be valid
data in both sets for this to happen.
Problems with installation
The PIC is a pretty robust little chip
but it is sensitive to static electricity
and also to electromagnetic interference (EMI), so when handling the
chip try not to touch the pins. Do not
be tempted to try the project out on
the bench if it is connected to the HEI
module and a coil and spark plug.
The open spark will cause the PIC to
run erratically due to the EMI produced and will fool you into thinking
something is wrong.
Keep all of the PIT module wiring
away from the ignition coil as the
electrical noise produced here may
interfere with the PIC.
Negative advance addendum
Nearly all of the PICs that have been
supplied in the past with the negative
advance feature have a small white
dot on the top surface of the chip.
When using these chips, both data
sets must be programmed for either
positive or negative advance, not
mixed, or the positive data set will
treat the data as being negative and
give improper operation.
There was a great deal of time taken
to scrounge up enough memory to
change this so that this restriction no
longer applies. Either set can now be
positive or negative. The PICs programmed with this software will have
a coloured dot instead of white placed
SC
on the top surface of the chip.
14 Model Railway Projects
THE PROJECTS: LED Flasher; Railpower Walkaround Throttle;
SteamSound Simulator; Diesel Sound Generator; Fluorescent
Light Simulator; IR Remote Controlled Throttle; Track Tester;
Single Chip Sound Recorder; Three Simple Projects (Train
Controller, Traffic Lights Simulator & Points Controller); Level
Crossing Detector; Sound & Lights For Level Crossings; Diesel
Sound Simulator.
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JULY 1999 67
VINTAGE RADIO
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
A mainland Chinese radio
receiver from the 1960s
It’s not often that one gets to work on a radio set
that was manufactured in mainland China
during the 1960s. The set described here had
some interesting features, including valves that
were pin-for-pin compatible with western types.
Occasionally, one gets the opportunity to examine vintage radios
from behind the Iron Curtain. Many
of us are familiar with the Russian
transistorised multi-band portable
radios that appeared from time to time
on the market. One example was the
Selena, which evoked curiosity from
68 Silicon Chip
the electronic fraternity in the 1970s.
This interesting set used a turret tuner
to do the band changing, something
rarely used by western manufacturers.
But what about sets that were made
behind the other end of the Iron Curtain (or was it the Bamboo Curtain)?
What did the communist Chinese
make in the way of radio receivers?
They didn’t export valve radio equipment to the Free World and they were,
in fact, quite insular at the time.
An opportunity to see what they
did in the 1960s presented itself towards the end of 1997, when a friend
obtained a set from a market in Shanghai. I was keen to see this set and to
gain some idea of what the Chinese
were doing in electronics around
1963, the year the set was manufactured. It is quite an interesting radio,
with one or two unusual ideas.
The receiver itself is a 4-valve BC
superhet, designed for use on either
110VAC or 220VAC, with a transformer power supply. The various views of
the set show the wiring
style used and what the
various components
looked like.
Some aspects of the
set’s electronic and
mechanical design are
similar to our methods.
However, we tended
to use point-to-point
wiring during that era,
while this receiver used
tag strips quite extensively. This meant that
some wiring was unnecessarily long – it certainly wasn’t point-to-point.
In addition, the capacitors were generally
larger than the types
used here for the same
ratings. But some things
never change – they
suffer exactly the same
problems of excessive
leakage. The resistors
Vintage Radio
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The 455kHz IF transformers are unusual in that the adjustment slugs are at the
back of the cans. Obviously, the coils are mounted side by side, a technique used
in some early Australian IF transformers.
were similar to the ones used by the
Japanese of the same era but appeared
to be of better quality.
IF transformers
The accompanying photographs
show that the 455kHz IF transformers
are rather different to those used by
Australian manufacturers. The adjustment slugs are at the back of the
cans and it is obvious that the coils are
mounted side by side, as were some
early Australian IF transformers. The
aerial and oscillator coils are similar
to the slug-tuned coils of the same era
in Australia.
Aligning the oscillator and aerial
coils at the high frequency end of the
tuning range is a bit of a problem. The
trimmer capacitors are similar to the
all-wire types used by Philips and
some other manufacturers. They use
a 16-gauge (or thereabouts) enamelled
wire as one lead and fine tinned wire
wound around the enamelled wire as
the other lead. They can only be easily
adjusted once. I removed the one on
the aerial coil and replaced it with
a conventional trimmer capacitor,
which is easier to adjust.
Chassis layout
From the photographs, it can be
seen that the chassis layout is quite
conventional. However, there is one
thing I really do like about this receiv-
er when it comes to servicing – tip it
upside down and it rests fairly evenly
on the two IF transformers and the
power transformer. This makes it very
easy to work on the under-chassis
components. The set will also sit quite
nicely on the end that’s adjacent to
the power transformer.
It’s a pity more Australian radios
weren’t made like this – servicing
them would have been so much easier.
Getting the set out of the cabinet
is a breeze too. First, you remove the
plywood back panel (no cheap cardboard here) by removing four screws.
After that, you simply pull the two
knobs off, unscrew two bolts on the
back of the chassis and pull it out.
One point of interest is that the front
edge of the chassis is wedged into a
slot made in the plastic, which stops
it from moving around. Operatic sets
used a similar method of attaching
the chassis to the cabinet.
The set had previously been serviced on a few occasions and the
work was rather rough, so some of
my criticisms regarding the layout
are not entirely directed at the manufacturer. That said, the manufacturer must have had some training
on wiring from Radio Corporation,
as single-strand insulated wire was
used and the wires were all wrapped
around their respective terminals several times! This means that the parts
RESURRECTION
RADIO
242 Chapel Street (PO Box 2029)
PRAHRAN, VIC 3181
Tel (03) 9510 4486 Fax (03) 9529 5639
can only be easily removed by cutting
them out, as it isn’t easy to unwind
the soldered leads without cooking
everything in the near vicinity.
Circuit details
I find that having a circuit of a
set makes servicing so much easier.
Unfortunately, my trusty copies of
the Australian Official Radio Service
Manuals were of no help this time, so
I had to trace the circuit out myself.
I started by checking the valve
types, as this can give a good idea of
the style of circuit used. The line-up
included a 6A2, a 6K4, a 6N1-J and a
6Z4, none of which I’d ever heard of
before. They are all miniature types
and all have seven pins except the
6N1-J which is a 9-pin valve. These
valves are taller than a 6BA6 but
shorter than a 6AQ5.
In short, the valves were all “homegrown” types, the exception being the
6Z4 which appears to be a miniature
version of the 84/6Z4.
These unknown valves certainly
added to the difficulties of tracing out
the circuit. The set appeared to be a
superhet of some sort, with two coils
JULY 1999 69
CHINESE MAINLAND SET CIRCA 1963
Notes:
6A2 is pin compatible with the 6BE6
6K4 is pin compatible with the 6BA6
6N1-J is pin compatible with 6BQ7A (inc. shield) and is compatible
with the 12AU7/12AT7 except for heater pins
The 6Z4 is a near equivalent to the 6X4 (but is not pin compatible)
Fig.1: this is the circuit diagram of the receiver, as
traced out by the author. It is a 4-valve set with a
twin-triode output stage.
and a valve (6A2) close to the tuning
gang – obviously a converter of some
sort. As a starting point, I carefully
traced each lead, checked continuity
through the coils and traced out a
circuit up to the pins of this valve. It
looked like a circuit that a pentagrid
converter would use, so I checked out
a circuit based on a 6BE6 and the two
looked remarkably similar.
In fact, the 6A2 even used the same
pins as the 6BE6 for each function.
I then checked the next section
(around the 6K4) and this appeared
to be a conventional IF stage. I drew
the circuit out with the valve pins
numbered and then checked it against
a circuit using a 6BA6. The pin-outs
were almost identical!
The detector turned out to be a
germanium diode. From there, the
demodulated signal is fed to the volume control, which was followed by
some sort of 2-stage audio amplifier
(6N1-J). I was having some trouble
here as the speaker transformer had
gone open circuit in the primary. This
means that the screen of the audio
output valve cops quite a wallop and
can glow rather too brightly.
Initially, I suspected that the valve
was probably a triode pentode but
that didn’t appear to be the case when
I took a closer look. There was no
70 Silicon Chip
screen – just two cathodes, two grids,
two plates and one pin earthed. It all
seemed a bit strange until I checked
to see what the earthed pin did inside
the valve. It was a shield between the
two sections and this indicated that
the valve was a twin triode, not a
triode pentode as expected.
It is certainly unusual to find a
triode output stage. Interestingly,
the pin outs are the same as for the
6BQ7A twin triode RF amplifier, as
commonly once used in TV tuners.
The audio section even has negative
feedback!
The power supply is based on the
6Z4 and was quite conventional.
Unfortunately, one half of the transformer’s secondary HT winding was
open circuit. This version of the 6Z4
has similar ratings to the familiar
6X4, although its pin out is not quite
the same.
The final circuit is shown as Fig.1.
As you can see, it’s quite straightforward and it certainly makes the set
easy to service.
Repairs
It was now time to actually service
the receiver. First, the various capacitors were checked and those with
excessive leakage were replaced. The
resistors all appeared to be within tol-
erance but the loudspeaker transformer was faulty and had to be replaced.
The rest of the set appeared to be
in good condition so I applied power
and used a multimeter to check the
voltages. These were OK and the set
worked but its performance was initially quite poor.
This improved quite markedly after
a full alignment but there were still
problems. At times, the set appeared
to be unstable, particularly when I
added an extra RF bypass near the
front end of the receiver (more on
this later).
One of my pet hates is having to
guess where the dial pointer should
be when I align the oscillator, so that
the dial calibrations are accurate.
This is always a problem when the
dial-scale remains in the case of the
set when the chassis is withdrawn.
This receiver falls into that category
but because the pointer is so far behind the dial-scale, parallax error is
quite significant anyway. As a result,
the dial pointer position isn’t all that
critical, which is just as well.
Because of the similarity of the
6A2 and 6K4 valves to the 6BE6 and
6BA6 respectively, the latter were
substituted and the results were quite
satisfactory. I then tried a 6BQ7A in
lieu of the 6N1-J and the performance
decreased somewhat but was otherwise OK. I then substituted another
6BQ7A and it really went well except
that it was unstable.
The audio amplifier appeared to
be taking off due to RF signal from
the IF strip feeding back into it. This
problem was cured by placing a 47kΩ
resistor in series with the grid (pin 7)
of the audio amplifier output stage.
This was yet another example where
insufficient IF filtering in the audio
amplifier causes trouble.
I didn’t try substituting a 6X4 rectifier in place of the 6Z4, as a wiring
modification would have been necessary. However, I’m sure it would have
worked well had this been necessary.
Other problems
By now the set wasn’t performing
too badly but there were still a few
things to be sorted out. First, the
power transformer had one half of
its HT secondary winding open circuit and I suspect that it had been in
this condition for quite some time.
To overcome this problem, the two
plate leads (pins 1 and 7) of the 6Z4
were joined together and the faulty
winding lead was cut off.
This step increased the HT voltage
by about 20V. In addition, a 240V AC
supply is rather high for a set designed
for run off 220V AC, so a 180Ω 5W
resistor was wired in series with the
mains. This gave a nominal 220V AC
on the primary of the transformer.
Running the set for a few hours in
this condition showed no abnormal
temperature rise in the transformer
despite the open circuit winding.
As pointed out, the valves used are
similar to ones we know and they
draw the same heater currents, the exception being the 6N1-J which draws
0.6A compared to the 6BQ7A’s 0.4A.
For replacement purposes, the 6A2
= 6BE6, 6K4 = 6BA6, 6N1-J = 6BQ7A
and the 6Z4 = 6X4 (with some wiring
modifications).
Did the Chinese copy our valve
types and give them different type
numbers or was it just coincidence?
Summary
The Chinese receiver used tag strips quite extensively, while Australian sets of
the same era mainly used point-to-point wiring. In addition, the capacitors are
generally larger than the types used here for the same ratings.
In many ways, the set is not greatly
different from the average Australian
4/5 valve superhet radio of the era. As
already pointed out, the main difference concerns the use of a twin-triode
audio output stage.
I suspect that the pin-for-pin com-
patibility of valves and the general
similarity in many areas to sets in
the West is just too much of a coincidence. However, other areas of the
set’s design are quite original and
different.
It’s hard to judge what market it
was intended to fill but at a guess it
was probably intended for the upper
class market in China of that period.
A similar set here would have been
considered an austerity model. SC
JULY 1999 71
-Y TABLE
Part.3: Building
The Z Axis
WITH STEPPER
MOTOR CONTROL
OK; you thought that the XY table was heading in the right direction
but wouldn’t really do the job you wanted it to. Well, you’re right.
You can’t really do much with it without the third axis control.
Mechanical Design & Construction by Ken Ferguson
Electronics by Rick Walters
72 Silicon Chip
T
HE Z AXIS IS constructed as an
additional frame to which the
XY table is bolted. It is capable
of supporting a pen, a small electric
drill or some other tool you may deem
useful. We used a Dremel drill and
stand, mainly because we already
had it to hand and we made up a pen
holder which will be described in a
future article.
A third stepper motor was used
to drive the Z axis but instead of the
threaded lead-screw system used for
the X and Y axes, we used a crank
system to move the tool. While there is
nothing essentially wrong with using
another threaded lead screw, it is not
cheap and we didn’t really feel that it
was necessary.
The Z axis stepper motor is driven
by the single stepper motor driver
board which was featured in SILICON CHIP in August 1997. The board
should have the modification detailed
in the May 1999 issue. If you don’t
already have these, we have now modified the stepper motor drive boards
and these will be featured as part of
this series of articles on the XY Table.
For convenience, and also to keep
them safe from harm, we mounted both
the stepper motor boards in a small
plastic case with a 12-way terminal
strip on the back. The terminal strip
provides a convenient termination
point for the leads from the three motors. An additional 4-way connector
terminates the wires from the power
supply. We brought the LEDs, which
were originally mounted on the PC
board, to the front panel so we could
monitor each board’s operation.
If you don’t fit the modification
featured in May 1999, you MUST turn
the 5V supply on first then load and
run the software, turning on the other
supplies at the opening screen. As we
explained last month, it is possible
for the ICs to turn on in a manner
which can cause some of the output
transistors to fail if this procedure is
not followed; not a nice sight or smell!
With the modified PC boards, this
procedure will not be necessary.
We set the jumper to select board 2
for the dual stepper driver and board
3 for the single stepper. If you plan to
use the relay interface board, which
was described in the July 1997 issue
of SILICON CHIP, with this setup (or
even if you don’t) we suggest that you
Fig.13: the Z axis frame is made from 20mm x 20mm
steel tubing which is welded into a frame measuring
830mm x 240mm. (Drawing scale 1:5).
Stepper motor driver
JULY 1999 73
Fig.14: details of the top motor mounting bar. This is made by cutting two pieces of 10mm x 10mm bar
280mm long. One piece of 27mm x 10mm x 10mm is then welded at each end to make a slotted bar with
a ¼” Whitworth slot running almost the full length. (Drawing scale 1:2).
Fig.15: details of the motor mounting bracket. It is folded from a piece of 3mm plate and has an outrigger
bracket 50mm x 25mm x 5mm welded to one side to mount a terminal strip. (Drawing scale 1:1).
bypass IC4c as this makes that board
compatible with the current software.
Z axis frame
The Z axis frame is made from
74 Silicon Chip
20mm x 20mm steel tubing which
is welded into a frame measuring
830mm x 240mm. The details are
shown in Fig.13. The bottom left and
right ends protrude about 50mm at the
front and back to form the supports for
adjustable feet. A 20mm x 20mm plate
5mm thick is welded at each end, then
drilled and tapped to support the 1¼”
Whitworth bolt which is used to level
Parts List
4 790mm 20 x 20mm tube
4 470mm 20 x 20mm tube
2 340mm 20 x 20mm tube
2 240mm 20 x 20mm tube
1 50 x 50 x 5mm plate
4 20 x 20 x 5mm plate
2 260mm 25 x 25mm angle
1 13mm 20mm rod
1 15mm 15mm rod
1 12mm 15mm rod
2 125mm 50 x 5 bar
2 270mm 25 x 5 bar
4 50mm 25 x 5 bar
2 130mm 12 x 5 bar
1 70mm 12 x 5 bar
2 280mm 10 x 10 bar
2 27mm 10 x 10 bar
14 1¼” x ¼” Whitworth bolts
16 1½” x ¼” Whitworth bolts
22 flat washers
22 ¼” Whitworth nuts
4 plastic inserts
2 4mm grub screw
Fig.16: the motor crank is made from a circular piece of 5mm plate 50mm in
diameter. A ¼” clearance hole was drilled at 20mm radius. A piece of 15mm
diameter rod 15mm long was cut and slotted at one end to fit over the motor
pin. It was then welded to the crank to form a boss. (Drawing scale 1:1).
the frame. Fit a nut to the bolt before
screwing it in and use the nut to lock
the adjustment. Four plastic inserts
are fitted into the open ends of the
tubing to finish off the stand.
Drill stand support
The drill stand was mounted upside
down and its baseplate was supported
by two pairs of brackets made from
270mm lengths of 25mm x 5mm steel
bar. Clearance holes were drilled
10mm and 50mm from each end and
the brackets were mounted either side
of the top rails and clamped together
with 1½” bolts. Obviously you will
have to drill mounting holes in the
bars to suit your particular base.
Fig.17: this diagram shows the details of the crank pushbar. This attaches to
the motor crank and moves the drill up and down. (Drawing scale 1:2).
Motor mounting
The top motor mounting bar
(Fig.14) is made by cutting two pieces
of 10mm x 10mm bar 280mm long.
One piece of 27mm x 10mm x 10mm
is welded at each end to make a slotted
bar with a ¼” Whitworth slot running
almost the full length. Cut two pieces of 25mm x 5mm bar each 50mm
long and drill clearance holes 10mm
from each end of both bars. Four 1½”
Whitworth bolts and nuts are used to
clamp these to the top bar.
The details of the motor mounting
bracket are shown in Fig.15. It is fold-
Fig.18: the stand actuator lever is made from a piece of 25mm x 5mm bar 60mm
long and has a 20mm-diameter x 15mm long boss welded to one end. (Drawing
scale 1:1).
JULY 1999 75
Fig.19: the fixed XY table clamp is made by cutting a piece of 25mm x 25mm angle
260mm long. This is welded in position and needs two slots centred 107.5mm either side
of the centreline in the vertical face. (Drawing scale 1:2).
Fig.20: the adjustable XY table clamp is slotted in both directions so that it can be pushed
close to the XY table before the bolts are tightened. (Drawing scale 1:2).
ed from a piece of 3mm plate. Two
clearance holes were drilled on the
centreline 20mm and 40mm in from
one end. The other end had four holes
drilled to mount the stepper motor.
An outrigger bracket 50mm x 25mm
x 5mm was welded on one side to
mount a terminal strip.
Motor crank
Fig.16 shows how the motor crank
was made from a circular piece of
5mm plate 50mm in diameter. A ¼”
clearance hole was drilled at 20mm
radius. A piece of 15mm diameter
rod 15mm long was cut and slotted
at one end to fit over the motor pin.
It was then welded to the crank to
form a boss. The centre of the crank
(and boss) was then drilled to neatly
76 Silicon Chip
fit over the motor shaft. The boss was
tapped for a 4mm grub screw to allow
it to be locked onto the motor shaft.
Crank pushbar
The details of the crank pushbar
are shown in Fig.17. A piece of 15mm
rod 12mm long was welded to a bar
12mm x 5mm, 70mm long. The rod
was then drilled for ¼” Whitworth
clearance. Two pieces of 12mm x 5mm
bar 130mm long were cut, then eight
holes were drilled in each bar, the first
10mm from one end then every 10mm.
These were then welded to each side
of the 70mm bar as shown in Fig.17.
Stand actuator lever
The stand actuator lever is shown
in Fig.18. It was made from a piece of
25mm x 5mm bar 60mm long. A boss
20mm in diameter 15mm long was
cut and welded to one end of the bar.
The centre was drilled out to fit the
shaft of the drill stand and the boss
was tapped for a 4mm grubscrew. The
other end was drilled ¼” clearance
10mm from the end.
XY table base clamps
These were made by cutting two
pieces of 25mm x 25mm angle 260mm
long. The fixed one is welded in position and needs two slots centred
107.5mm either side of the centreline
in the vertical face. These should be
made around 8-9mm wide to allow a
little clearance, as shown in Fig.19.
Fig.20 shows the adjustable clamp.
It is slotted in both directions to al-
Table 1: Example Files
LCOSW.TOL
PROTEL TRAXPLOT Version 1.61
NCDrill Tool Loading Specification
PCB File : C:\PROTEL\PCB\LCOSW.PCB
Date
: 10/03/1999
Time
: 15:41:41
T01 31
T02 51
T03 39
This shows that all the holes under the T01
header should be drilled with a #31 Imperial drill.
The Windows versions of Protel give a Metric drill
size as well. Those under T02 should be drilled with
a #51 drill and the T03 (nothing to do with a T03
transistor) group of pads should have a #39 hole.
This close-up view shows how the drill stand is clamped to the
top of the Z-frame. It also shows how the push bar is attached to
the drill and to the circular crank attached to the stepper motor.
low the XY table to be bolted to the fixed clamp, then this one
is pushed close and tightened both to the base and to the table.
The bolt heads for this bracket which pass through the base bar
should have their heads tack-welded.
Software
The software we have supplied for this stage allows you to
drill a PC board which has been laid out with Protel Autotrax
V1.61 or Easytrax V2.06. As Easytrax (and Easyplot) was a free
layout package you should, with a little effort, be able to get your
hands on a copy (try www.cia.com.au/rcsradio).
Using Traxplot or Easyplot, load the board you plan to drill
then select NC drill from the menu. Three files will be generated:
FILENAME.TOL, FILENAME.DRL and FILENAME.TXT. With
Traxplot, the drill sizes for the different pads are listed in the
FILENAME.TOL; with Easyplot the TOL file is empty. This is not
a problem as you will normally drill all holes with an 0.8mm or
0.9mm drill, then redrill those that need to be larger.
FILENAME.TXT contains a list of the X and Y co-ordinates
for each hole. Thus by locating the XY table at 0,0 it can then
be moved to each pad centre. If the Z axis drill is then moved
down, a hole will be drilled. The software will read the next pad
centre from the list then move the table to that location. Once
LCOSW.TXT
M48
T01F00S00
T02F00S00
TO3F00S00
%
T01
X00825Y008
X00575
X00825Y0065
|
|
|
Y00375
Y00275
T02
X004Y0085
Y003
X02525Y008
Y004
X03175Y00775
T03
X01275Y008
etc to last entry
M30
There were actually 38 holes to be drilled T01
(#31) size, only five T02 (#51) size and 18 for the
T03 drill size. If you don’t select the redrill option
the software only reads through the file once,
drilling each hole in turn. As we have already
said, use an 0.8 or 0.9mm drill for all holes, then
manually redrill those holes that need enlarging.
If the redrill option is selected, the software
will finish drilling that size hole, home the table,
advise the next drill to be fitted then drill those
holes, repeating the sequence until all the holes
are the correct size.
JULY 1999 77
The XY table sits on the base of the Z frame and is secured using a fixed clamp and an adjustable clamp. The
completed unit can be used to automatically drill PC boards, or can be used for other tasks.
The drill stand is clamped to the top of the Z frame using two pairs of flat metal
brackets made from 270mm lengths of 25mm x 5mm steel bar. Clearance holes
were drilled 10mm and 50mm from each end and the brackets were mounted
either side of the top rails and clamped together with 1½” x ¼” Whitworth bolts.
78 Silicon Chip
the PC board is drilled, the table will
return to 0,0.
Just in case you experience problems while drilling, you only have to
press any key and the program will
abort, homing the table (to 0,0).
The software consists of the following seven files: PCBDRILL.BAS,
PCBDRILL.EXE, DRLSETUP.BAS,
DRLSETUP.EXE, DRLSETUP.FIL,
DRLTEST.BAS and DRLTEST.EXE.
These are available free from our web
site, or on a floppy disk (price is $7.00
including packaging and postage from
SILICON CHIP).
The first two files are self explanatory; they drill a PC board. The BAS
file has been provided to allow you
to modify the software if you wish.
The setup files let you key in the
maximum X and Y values for the
table position and the table stepping
speed. They also allow you to allocate
the addresses of the XY and Z stepper driver boards, select an Imperial
or metric display and select which
Above & bottom right: these two views clearly show
the drill stand set-up in relation to the XY table.
parallel printer port you plan to use to drive the
stepper boards.
The software which drives the Z axis moves the
drill down close to the PC board surface (assuming
we plan to drill a PC board) as soon as the program
begins, then moves it the shorter distance through
the board each time a hole is drilled. This reduces
the time taken to drill the board. Both these adjust
ments can be set or changed in the setup programs.
The last setup option either allows the program
to go through the drill cycle once, as would be the
case with Easyplot, or home the tool. It will then
ask for the next drill size and redrill these holes,
until the board is completed, with each hole the
size that you specified when you were laying out
the board.
The DRLTEST programs allow you to move the
drill up and down to fine tune the initial drill
down position and then the fully down position.
Obviously, you should move the PC board out of
the way of the drill until your adjustments are
correct. You can use the XYTABLE program, which
we talked about in a previous article, to do this.
The Protel TOL (TOOL) file and an extract from
the same PC board TXT file is shown in Table 1
SC
on page 77.
JULY 1999 79
Just how DO you test a loudspeaker?
CLIO: PC-driven
loudspeaker evaluation
Testing speakers, particularly hifi speakers, has always been something of a
problem. Either you had a fully set up anechoic chamber with a raft of
professional (read expensive!) test equipment . . . or you relied on your ears.
Review by Ross Tester
F
or the most part, the latter has been the “norm”. Not
that this has been a necessarily bad thing – after all,
it’s your ears that are going to be the final arbiters
anyway. But as test equipment, they suffer from a few
major drawbacks.
First, ears are subjective. Did I really hear that or am I
just imagining it?
Second, it’s very difficult to find two sets of ears calibrated exactly the same. In fact, calibration often varies
between otherwise matched pairs, especially as they age!
Third, and perhaps most important, ears cannot be calibrated anyway – so what’s the standard?
If only there was a low-cost way to objectively measure
and test speakers . . .
You’ve probably already guessed that all this is leading
to just that: a (relatively) low cost but accurate speaker test
and measurement system. It’s called CLIO and is manufactured in Italy by Audiomatica SRL.
The CLIO system has two basic components: a dedicated
8-bit PC Card which slots into a vacant ISA socket in an
IBM-compatible PC (386 or higher) and the software to
run it.
Audiomatica recommend a minimum 386-DX33 with
2MB RAM, VGA video card and a hard disk drive. A math
co-processor is not essential but is highly recommended.
Of course, running CLIO on a 486 or better automatically
gets a maths co-processor.
Also supplied with the CLIO system under review were
a 2.75m long RCA to RCA “noiseless signal cable” (oxygen-free copper), two 1m long RCA to alligator clip leads,
an Audiomatica MIC-01 calibrated condenser electret
microphone.
The 25cm long microphone is accurate to within ±1dB
from 20Hz to 10kHz and within ±2dB from 10-20kHz. It
comes with a mounting bracket intended to be attached to
a small microphone stand.
An optional Audiomatica amplifier, calibrated to the
electret microphone, is also available. This 10W, 0.004%
THD amplifier makes the system self-contained. With internal switching, the impedance and frequency response
80 Silicon Chip
of a loudspeaker can be checked without changing wiring.
For this review, we used our own audio amplifier so the
supplied amplifier was not required. Its main function is
for automatic or manual quality control setups.
What does CLIO do?
CLIO works as a precision A/D and D/A converter frontend for your PC. Using the power of the PC, it generates a
range of audio signals to drive an amplifier connected to
the speaker under test. Using a microphone calibrated to
the system, it listens to the speaker output and compares
this with the test signals.
CLIO uses several measurement methods, possibly the
most important being the well established maximum length
sequence (MLS) analysis technique.
car speaker installations – it also automates IASCA scoring), Fast Fourier
Transforms (FFT) with the ability to
switch back and forth between time
and frequency domains.
An inbuilt control panel also gives
you the ability to set and display a wide
range of input and output settings and
even display the output on a screen
based “oscilloscope”. It even has an
inbuilt L/C meter.
As you can see, CLIO is an extremely
versatile system. And we have only
talked about some of its testing capabilities. It does a lot more than this!
Getting it going
We must admit that we had some
difficulty in getting the system to work.
This is the “heart” of the CLIO system, an 8-bit card which plugs into a vacant
We’ll explain why so readers won’t
expansion slot in any PC from a 386 up. It should be fitted as far away from
experience similar problems.
the video card as possible to minimise interference. At right is the card end-on,
Fitting the card is simple: you simply
showing the input and output RCA connectors. The top connector is channel A
find a vacant slot (as far as possible
input, next down channel B input, next channel A output and the bottom
from your video graphics card) and
channel B output. During setup the channel A input and output are shorted.
plug CLIO in as you would any other
This has become an international standard for accurate
expansion card. The software, likewise, loads easily to
anechoic analysis and for room acoustics. In MLS the
your hard disk from the INSTALL command on the flopimpulse response is measured very quickly and with high py disk supplied. Theoretically, that’s all there is to basic
accuracy, with the computer analysing the data.
installation but in our case . . . not quite.
From the impulse response it is possible to obtain a
The first computer we tried to use was a 300MHz Pentium
variety of measurements, such as frequency response, II machine but it turned out to be too fast. (The software
phase response, minimum phase, phase with group delay has since been changed to allow even the fastest PCs to
removed, the energy time curve, cumulative spectral decay operate). When we had no joy there, we went to a 50MHz
(or “waterfall”) and reverberation time.
486 machine but it still wouldn’t behave. Different probCLIO analysis allows a wide range of control over these
lem, though: a “run time” error which we simply couldn’t
various tests to suit either the equipment under test, the eliminate.
environment, or both.
Perhaps there was a conflict in I/O addresses? The CLIO
Another analysis method is the tradition sinusoidal board has a jumper to adjust the address from 300H (factory
measurement, which can test frequency and phase re- default) to 310H. So we changed the jumper – alas, still
sponse, distortion, impedance and automatic evaluation
no joy. A lot of head scratching and to-and-froing between
of Thiele-Small parameters.
ourselves and the Australian distributors of CLIO (Audio
It will undertake third octave analysis (very popular in Consultants, of Stockport, SA) eventually solved the prob-
Two plots representing the same thing: the impedance (in ohms) vs frequency of a quality speaker system. On the left is
the plot produced by SILICON CHIP's Audio Precision Test Setup, while the plot on the right is that produced by CLIO. As
you can see, with only a minor difference between 10 and 20Hz, the plots are virtually carbon copies of each other.
JULY 1999 81
lem: some type of conflict between the CLIO card and a
network card fitted to the PC.
This should have been evident from the very first – a
conflict should show in the Windows control panel. But
for some reason it did not. Anyway, to cut a long (actually
very long!) story short, when we removed the network card
from the machine CLIO burst into life.
We also possibly made a mistake in trying to operate
the system under DOS. Our reading of the instructions
suggested it had to run that way.
CLIO requires 575K of free memory and we were having
some trouble achieving this with what was loaded in the
machine. In the end, a chance remark from Audio Consultants about operating under Windows 95 led us in that
direction – and success.
So what is the wash-up of all this? When installing
CLIO, put it into a “bare bones” computer (ie, no extra
cards) running only Windows 95/98 and you shouldn’t
have any problems. You were wondering what to do with
that pensioned-off 486, weren’t you?
Running the calibration procedure takes a few minutes
but is fully detailed in the manual, so we won’t repeat it
here. Suffice to say it basically runs itself.
Testing a speaker
Once everything is working satisfactorily, setting up CLIO
is quite simple. You need to verify system performance
and operation, then calibrate the system to your PC. The
instruction manual covers this more than adequately.
During the calibration process, a loopback cable is required – that is, the input and output of the “A” channel
need to be shorted with a suitable RCA-RCA lead (one was
supplied in the package).
One point to note, though, the four RCA sockets on
the card backplane are not labelled – in a normal PC the
“A” input will be the top socket, the “A” output will be
the third socket down. They are clearly labelled in the
instruction manual.
After all our (mis)adventures installing CLIO, this part
was a bit of an anticlimax. It ran like clockwork!
We put CLIO through a range of tests measuring a high
quality 2-way speaker system. The first test we ran was
(at least to us) one of the most interesting: we wanted to
compare the results obtained by CLIO against the results
of our laboratory Audio Precision test equipment.
The speaker impedance was first measured and plotted
by the Audio Precision (incidentally, about $20,000 worth!)
and then repeated using CLIO (at less than a tenth the
price!). The results speak for themselves – above about
20Hz, the plots are virtually identical.
We then ran a variety of tests using CLIO, some of which
are reproduced on these pages. (We actually ran many tests
over several days but space precludes us from showing
the results. The ones shown are typical tests but of course
CLIO is capable of much more than those shown here).
We were mainly interested in looking at the basic parameters of the speaker: its frequency response, for example,
is one of the fundamental tests and most-quoted figures
when a salesman is extolling a speaker's virtues!
(Like most quoted figures, though, frequency response
can be fudged, especially if no amplitude reference is
given.)
We also looked at the interaction between the listening
environment and the speaker. Unfortunately we were limited in the size of room in which we could conduct our
tests and this became very evident as we progressed. We
expected severe room interaction – and CLIO proved that
we got it! One of the beauties of CLIO, though, is that these
The CLIO instruction manual is basically well-written,
although there is some evidence of Italian/English
translation going just a little awry. Compared to some
Asian manual translations, though, it's good.
Accessories supplied with the CLIO system: two RCA to
alligator clip leads and a long (2.7m) high-quality RCA to
RCA lead. The lower pic shows the 25cm-long high quality
calibrated microphone mounted on its stand adaptor.
Setting it up
82 Silicon Chip
The MLS (maximum length sequence) test is a de-facto
standard for analysing room acoustics. The microphone
picks up a combination of sound from the speaker and
sound reflected in the room. As the system knows what the
speaker should have been reproducing itself, it can analyse
the effects of the listening environment.
effects can be cancelled out if required.
We checked the phase output,
showing just how good (or bad) the
speaker components (particularly the
cross-over) were. Speaker manufacturers go to extreme lengths to get the
cross-overs “just right”. Sometimes
they win, sometimes they lose.
CLIO in quality control
Having computer power to make
all the calculations gives CLIO a huge
advantage over other forms of testing.
Tests that used to take hours of measuring and calculating are performed
In this test, the speaker is “swept” with a 2.82V sine
wave from 200Hz to 20kHz and the microphone is placed
500mm from the speaker. The sound pressure level is
then plotted. Below 200Hz, room reflections (especially
in a small, non anechoic room) tend to make the readings
meaningless.
in seconds (actually in milliseconds!).
This makes CLIO an ideal candidate
for use in quality control applications.
Indeed, there is an option for CLIO
which is intended for just that. (The
QC option wasn’t supplied for evaluation but its operation is covered in the
manual. We have no doubt it would acquit itself with the same performance
as the rest of the CLIO package).
How much?
CLIO is not cheap – but it’s a bargain. The accompanying panel shows
the price and availability. We’re im-
Cumulative spectral decay, otherwise known as a “waterfall”
plot, looks at the way the speaker behaves immediately after
it is hit with a pulse. In a perfect world, the decay would be
linear with time but speakers are not perfect devices. The
results would have been much better in a larger room.
pressed with its seemingly endless
features, its ease of use and the way
it works. And, with only a minor reservation after our difficulties getting it
going, we give it the thumbs up! SC
Recommended retail price of the CLIO
system, not including amplifier, is
$1840.00 ($1551 if tax exempt). The
amplifier sells for $605.00
($457 tax exempt).
Enquiries to the Australian distributors,
Australian Audio Consultants,
PO Box 11, Stockport SA 5410.
Phone/Fax (08) 8528 2201
A perfect loudspeaker would be phase-linear; that is,
the sound output would be a perfect reproduction of the
input signal. However crossovers and even the speakers
themselves introduce phase distortion. This test shows the
difference between the input signal and the output.
JULY 1999 83
Microcontroller Fun:
The Hexapod Robot
Hexapod? It’s a weird name for a weird looking animal.
It “walks” on six legs. How on earth can something
walk on six legs? Build it and find out!
By Ross Tester
84 Silicon Chip
The kit unpacked: the large yellow sheet contains the mechanical components to be assembled onto the Hexapod body.
The three servos and their actuator arms are at the top – the circular actuators already fitted are discarded. The manual
on the left is for the BASIC Stamp controller, the manual on the right is for the robot itself.
T
he Hexapod Walker is a fasci
nating little kit which will pro
vide a lot of enjoyment – not
only in building it but seeing what
it does. And it will give you a good
insight into basic robotics (and you
will see shortly that basic plays a significant part!) plus computer control.
When completed, the Hexapod
Walker also looks like a large insect.
In operation it looks somewhat like a
large insect, whirring along as it somewhat clumsily moves along one step
at a time. But it’s no accident that the
Hexapod looks like an insect: that was
obviously the designer’s idea. In fact,
options are given in the instructions
to make it look even more insect-like.
What you get
The Hexapod Walker kit is supplied
as a number of bags of “bits” and
the walker components themselves
stamp-ed from a large-ish sheet (about
300 x 200mm) of bright yellow plastic,
about 3mm thick.
The Hexapod “body” is of the
same material but about 7mm thick.
Incidentally, if you want to change
the colour (bug black, maybe?) it can
be spray-painted with acrylic lacquer
such as auto touch-up spray paint.
The bags of bits contain almost all
the components you need to put the
robot together. For example, there are
three servos (the type used in most
radio controlled cars/planes/boats,
etc), along with various control arms
to suit. You’ll only need one type of
arm so the rest can go into your junk
box – just in case.
There’s another bag containing a
small PC board (about 37 x 57mm)
and all the components you’ll need
to build the BASIC Stamp robot controller. Did we forget to mention that’s
how the robot is driven? Sorry!
Yet another bag contains “hardware” – Nylon screws and nuts, a
couple of battery holders, some rubber
feet, tinned copper wire and so on,
with all the above housed in a large
bag which also contains an assembly
manual and microcontroller manual,
along with a program floppy disk.
What you don’t get
There are a couple of things you’re
going to have to buy, scrounge or otherwise procure before you can build
the robot. We’ll warn you about them
now because when we started to put
the kit together it was after the local
shops had closed and we had to wait!
The most important thing is some
double-sided foam adhesive. This is
sold by hardware stores for sticking
photos, mirrors and anything else to
walls. It’s also available from large
supermarkets. We used a packet containing 32 mounts pre-cut into 10 x
20mm rectangles. It’s a handy way
to buy them (ours were “Permastik”
brand and cost about three dollars for
the packet).
You’ll also need some super glue
– not just ordinary super glue, but
the gel variety. Super Glue Gel gives
a slightly longer working time and
is less likely to stick your fingers together. But like ordinary super glue,
it does go off fairly quickly and it can
stick your fingers together if you let
it. We used Selleys Fix’n’Go Supa
Glue Gel – a 3g tube also cost about
three dollars.
A sheet of sandpaper is also required to smooth the edges of the robot
components where they break away
from the carrier sheet.
JULY 1999 85
The kit requires two power
pins (the gap between the pins
sources – a 9V battery for the
is very small).
processor and 4 x 1.5V “AA”
Don’t place the ICs in their
cells (6V) for the servos. None
sockets yet.
of these are supplied in the
The pin spacing for the
kit. Alkaline batteries would
three sets of header pins is
of course be preferable.
also very close, so be extra
As far as tools are concareful when soldering these
cerned, you will need a sol(especially the middle row
dering iron (with a nice fine
of the three-way set!). The
tip) and solder (electronic
short-er pins go through the
type, of course!), a PhilipsPC board to be soldered.
head screwdriver and a pair
Place and solder in the RJ11
of pliers with cutting blade (to
connector (it can only go one
cut and bend the wire).
way) followed by the two
One option which is almost The assembled First Step BASIC Stamp controller. It
3-pin semiconductors (these
essential (unless you want to is programmed from a PC via the large socket on the
could, with difficulty, be inright which looks like a telephone connector.
make your own) is the proserted incorrectly!).
gramming cable: a short cable
Finally, insert the 18-pin
fitted with a standard computer parallisted in the manual are actually sup- and 8-pin ICs into their respective
lel port plug one end and an RJ-11 plug plied. The way the bags are sealed
sockets. This is one area where a lot
(what looks like a modular tele-phone
of problems occur; you have to ensure
it would be very surprising to find
plug) the other. Be warned: it’s NOT to anything missing (but stranger things all the IC pins are inserted into their
be plugged into the telephone socket; have happened. . .)
mating sockets. It’s easy for pins to
this is the plug which enables you to
Start by placing and soldering in the be bent in this process, so take care.
program the Hexapod from your PC.
You have now finished the controlresistors except R4 & R5 (10kΩ). These
Oh yes, you need a PC of some sort, are not required in this version of the ler board. After thoroughly checking
too (just about any IBM-compatible kit. They won’t do any harm but they your soldering and component placewill do). In fact, it’s a perfect appliment, put it to one side while we get
will drain the battery slightly.
cation for that old XT gathering dust
Next, fit and solder the three capac- on with the fun bit: the robot!
in the back shed!
itors (one is an electrolytic, so watch
Building the robot
its orientation) and then the ceramic
Starting construction
Unfortunately, the instruction manresonator (not polarised).
You can start with either the robot or
Both ICs are provided with sockets; ual for the robot is a little disjointed
the microcontroller board – but seeing
the 8-pin socket for the EEPROM and and some important information is
we’re an electronics magazine, we’ll
the 18-pin for the PIC processor. Care- unclear. So we will try to cover that
start with the controller.
fully solder in the sockets, making here.
First, verify that all the components sure you do not bridge between the
The first step, according to the man-
Fig.1: the circuit diagram of the Hexapod’s microcontroller which
itself is programmed from a PC via the modular programming port,
CN1. While the output header has labels for four servos (0-3), only
three are used in the kit. Other pins can be used for microcontroller
I/O – RB6 and RB7 can have bumper microswitches fitted if you wish.
86 Silicon Chip
The first steps in assembling the
Hexapod are the mounting of the
servos on the underside of the base
panel (Fig.2, left) and the gluing in
place of the vertical leg supports and
spacer bracket (Fig.3, right).
ual, is to centre the servos by applying
a 1.5ms pulse every 10-15ms.
How? You need to do it via the
controller board you have just finished
and by running a program on your
PC which downloads the appropriate program to the controller board.
Great if you’re into BASIC programming; hardly the stuff beginners or
even the average kit constructor will
get their head around quickly.
If you wish to do this correctly, you
should jump over to the “programming” section at the end of this article
and follow the instructions there. But
if you’re like us, in a hurry to get the
robot going, you can cheat a lot and
centre the servos by eye. Sure, it won’t
be exactly correct but our kit worked
doing it this way, so what the heck?
Screw one of the servo actuators
onto the servo arm with the screw
provided. Turn the servo actuator all
the way clockwise and place a reference mark on the servo arm at the end
point. Turn the actuator all the way
anti-clockwise and place another ref-
erence mark on the servo arm at that
end point. Half way between those
two marks will be close enough to the
midpoint for our purposes. Repeat for
the other two servos.
Now it’s time to carefully break all
of the components from the carrier
sheet. We didn’t have any difficulty
doing this – just take your time and
don’t force any pieces. If necessary,
help them a bit by cutting with a knife.
The largest piece is, not surprisingly, the robot “body”. There will also be
four identical back-and-forward legs,
two identical up and down legs, eight
leg support brackets, two identical
vertical leg supports and a leg support
spacer. Smooth any carrier sheet remnants from all the components with
sandpaper before continuing. Put all
of the legs and support pieces to one
side for a moment.
Now we have to fit the servos to
the robot body with double-sided adhesive foam. First, with a pencil and
straight edge, mark a centre line right
down the length of the body (there are
reference marks each end to help you
do this). Then mark one line across
the body (exactly at right angles to
the first line) 85.5mm from the front
and another 25.5mm from the back.
Next you will need one of the servos, one of the slim actuator arms (not
the circular ones) and the actuator arm
retainer and screw.
Place the servo on its side with the
shaft pointing towards you and the
wires emerging from the right end.
Keeping the servo shaft in mid position, place the retainer onto the shaft
and screw the arms on so the actuator
points 90° straight upwards. Tighten
the screw holding the actuator arm in
place, making sure you don’t move
the servo off mid position. Once all
servos are in position you won’t have
access to this screw, so make sure it
is right first!
In fact, it’s a good idea to do a “dry
run”, placing all the servos without
adhesive to make sure you understand
how they all fit together.
When ready to permanently mount
Next comes the mounting of the support
brackets (Fig. 4, left) and the fitting of
the legs (Fig.5, right). Note the way the
holes in the support brackets all face
towards the middle legs.
JULY 1999 87
Once all the legs are fitted, you need to bend the pushrods from
the wire supplied so that the servos can drive the legs. The two
diagrams here show how those pushrods are fitted. When you
get to this stage, your robot is mechanically complete – all you
need to do now is add the electronics and batteries.
the first one, attach a couple of adhesive foam tabs to the underside of the
servo and fix it exactly to the centre
of the robot body so that its back lies
along the line you ruled closest to the
front of the body. When mounted, its
actuator points down (away from the
robot body).
The other two servos are prepared
and mounted in a similar way, except
that when mounted, the servo actuators point straight up with the servos
back-to-back along the centre line.
Their back edges follow the line you
ruled towards the back of the robot
body. This means the adhesive foam
pads actually stick to opposite sides
of the servos.
Now you have to make the vertical
leg supports, using the two support
pieces with their central spacer.
Before gluing, place the two vertical
legs in position with their two Nylon
nuts & bolts.
It’s vital that you don’t get any glue
on the legs themselves, otherwise they
won’t be able to move. When this assembly is dry, glue it to the TOP side
of the robot body (it fits into notches
on the body). Again, keep glue away
from the legs.
Next come the horizontal leg support “hinges” which are glued directly
to their respective legs. You will note
that there are two holes on the hinges
– these holes must be aligned in the
same direction for each hinge.
The hinges on the front legs have
their holes to the rear; the hinges on
the back legs have their holes to the
front.
It’s also important that the hinges
88 Silicon Chip
are assembled exactly in line with
each other – placing the Nylon bolt
through each will line them up for
you.
Finger-tighten all of the Nylon nuts
and bolts and glue the hinges to the
legs, making sure you don’t get glue on
the faces of the hinges or on the base.
Now all the legs and their fittings
are assembled, it’s time to make the
pushrods which connect the legs and
their respective servos together. This
is done with the tinned copper wire.
Be careful here: there is just enough
supplied to do the job.
Before using the wire, it’s a good
idea to straighten it by nipping one
end in a vice and pulling the other
end hard with a pair of pliers.
The legs can be mounted at 90° to
the body, which is most efficient, or
they can be mounted at, say, 10 degrees offset – which looks more like a
bug! It’s up to you which way you go.
Cut two 200mm lengths and mark
them (with a Texta or similar) at 30,
80, 130 and 180mm. Bend the wire at
90° at 30mm and push the longer end
through the two holes in the centre
leg brackets. Push the other end right
through one of the pair of holes in a
front leg hinge set and bend it back to
make it captive in the hinge set.
Bend the wire at the 80mm and
130mm marks about 15° in a horizontal direction, with the mark at 180mm
at 90° in the vertical direction. The
free end then passes through a pair
of holes in the rear hinge set and is
bent over underneath to make captive.
Snip the ends off the wire to make sure
they don’t foul anything as the legs are
moved backward and forward.
The other piece of wire, for the
opposite side, is prepared the same
way. Exact angles are less important
than making the two pieces of wire
symmetrical.
The rear legs connect to their respective servos with short (83mm)
lengths of the same wire. These go
through the other holes in the rear
hinges and connect to one of the
holes in the servo actuators. We used
the second hole from the top which
seemed to work pretty well.
The centre legs connect to the centre
hole in the remaining servo with the
remaining length of wire. It must be
bent in an elongated “S” shape as per
the diagram. Naturally, you will have
to thread the wire through some of the
holes before bending – the angles are
too acute to allow it to pass through
otherwise.
Now see if you can move the front
legs by gently pushing on the rear legs
and vice versa. Don’t push too hard
because you’re also turning the servo.
Wiring the beast
It really is starting to look like a
beast, isn’t it?
The controller PC board and 4 x AA
cell holder are glued to the top side
of the body with the same adhesive
foam we used to glue the servos in
place (lucky there were 32 foam tabs
in the pack!). The 9V battery holder is
glued to the underside of the body in
front of the vertical leg servo.
Now we have to run the wiring
from the servos to the controller – and
here’s where you can come unstuck.
We believe the instructions are not
clear enough in telling you which
way around the 3-pin servo plugs go
on the header pins. The circuit diagram in the “First Step” manual has
the wire colours shown but doesn't
tell you which way around they go
on the socket – and they could be
placed either way around. The wiring
diagram in the kit manual is not 100%
clear, either. It would be too easy for
anyone not familiar with electronics
to get it back to front. And then there
is the dire warning about not getting
it back to front . . .
In all cases, the black wires in the
servo connectors go to the header pins
closest to the edge of the PC board.
This makes the red wires go to the
middle pins while the yellow wires,
the ones which receive direction information from the controller, connect
to the pins closest to the controller IC.
It is also possible to get the wrong
servo on the wrong set of header pins.
The left servo goes to the pins labelled
Servo-0, the right to the pins labelled
Servo-1 and the middle to the pins labelled Servo-2. When mounted, both
their actuators point up, alongside
the body. The servos are taken care
of, now for the power wiring.
In the kit we built, two power
switches were included which make
it very easy to turn power on and off.
The alternative is to whip a battery
out but that is sometimes not quite so
easy with the thing going walkabout!
Wiring the battery connectors to the
switches is the easy part. Connecting
the switches and negative supplies
to the PC board – well, that wasn’t
quite so simple. We could only find
two header connectors supplied in the
kit – one red, one black. And there are
four connections to make: +9V, 0V,
+6V and 0V. What to do?
We cheated. We cut the header
connector leads to a suitable length,
giving us four header connectors.
These we soldered to suitable lengths
of insulated hookup wire and connected those to the switches and battery
holders. Of course we also insulated
the soldered joins.
We’ve been assured by the suppliers
that more connectors will be supplied
in future kits so this problem should
not occur.
The switches themselves are the
standard mini toggle switches, complete with nuts and washers. However, we found that they were such
The battery holders and the
microcontroller PC board
are attached using doublesided foam tape.
Be careful to
keep wiring away
from the pushrods
or legs.
a snug fit into the two holes right at
the back of the robot that no nuts or
washers were required. That bit is
up to you.
Finally, we used a couple of cable
ties to tidy up all the wiring. Because
the servo leads can’t easily be shortened, there is a fair amount of excess
wire around. And the last thing you
want is a wire dragging along the
pushrods as they move back and forward, back and forward . . .
The penultimate step is to check
your wiring and all clearances, making sure that the legs move in unison
with each other.
If all is OK, insert the 9V battery and
the four AA batteries and switch on.
Hopefully, nothing at all will happen!
Programming it
That’s because you haven’t programmed the Stamp controller yet,
so the beast hasn’t got a brain to tell
it what to do.
The first thing to do is to load the
supplied software into a directory
on your hard disk drive (it will work
from floppy if you must!). Make a
directory called stamp1 and copy
all the files from both the “stamp1”
and “Hexapod” directories on the
supplied floppy disk to that directory.
Connect the supplied cable to your
computer’s parallel (printer) port and
the RJ-11 socket on your robot. You
OK, How Does Hexapod Walk?
The principle behind walking
with the 3-servo robot is simple. One of the servos is used
to provide vertical lift to legs
1,3,5 or 2,4,6. The other servos
provide the horizontal shift for
the left legs, 1 & 3, or the right
legs, 4 & 6. By cycling through
the sequences to the right the
robot can walk forward, reverse
or turn left or right.
To walk forward, follow the
sequence 1,2,3,4 then repeat.
To walk backwards, follow the
sequence 4,3,2,1 then repeat.
The same rule applies to turning
sequences. You can experiment
with the amount of throw for the
servos and the type of feet with
different floors.
JULY 1999 89
These are the screens you should see on your PC: above, we
have loaded stamp1.exe and then pressed “ALT-L” to list
the available PBASIC programs. Selecting “WALK.BAS”
loads the program to make Hexapod walk. This is displayed
in the screen top right. Pressing “ALT-R” will download
this to your Hexapod, as shown bottom right (assuming, of
course, that the cable is connected AND the 9V supply is
turned on). Turning on the 6V supply should start
Hexapod walking. It’s wise to disconnect the cable first,
though! Turning off the power switch or even removing
the batteries will not alter the program: it will stay in the
robot’s memory for at least 40 years or until it is replaced,
which ever comes first . . .
will need to turn the 9V supply on
but the 6V supply doesn’t need to be
on yet (in fact, it’s more convenient
not to have it on unless you want to
be chasing the little beast all over the
place!).
Run the stamp1.exe program. This
brings up the screen shown above.
Load the appropriate BASIC program.
Alt-L will list the available files for
you; Alt-H will give you a list of
valid commands. After loading the
program, press Alt-R to download it
to the controller on your Hexapod. It
will begin running automatically – as
soon as you turn the 6V supply on, the
legs should start to move.
If it doesn’t, you will probably already have received a “hardware not
found” error on your screen. Check
that the 9V battery is OK, that it is
turned on and that there is power getting to the board. You can also check
that the on-board regulator is working
by measuring the voltage between pin
6 and pin 8 on header H1 – you should
get very close to 5V.
If this doesn’t work, make sure that
the cable is properly plugged into
both your parallel socket and the RJ11
socket on the robot. If all else fails,
go over your soldering once again and
check the placement and polarity of
the components on the board.
Assuming that everything is now
working properly, disconnect the
programming cable. Next time you
turn Hexapod on, he/she/it will go
90 Silicon Chip
lumbering away again, exactly as
before. That’s because the program
stays in memory until erased (or
another program is loaded, which is
effectively the same thing).
In fact, the manufacturers of the BASIC Stamp say that if you come back
in 40 years time and turn the Hexapod
on, it will still have the program in
memory. We think you might need
some fresh batteries, though!
What to do next
Once you are completely satisfied
with Hexapod’s operation, we suggest
once again tightening up the Nylon
Where To Get It:
Our Hexapod Robot Walker Kit
came from the Australian distributors of Lynxmotion products, RobotOz, 7 Felgate Place, Warwick,
WA 6024. Phone 08 9243 4842;
fax 08 9246 1563, email kits<at>
robotoz.com.au
Recommended retail price of the
kit, including the BASIC Stamp
microcontroller, is $320.
The optional infrared proximity
detector sells for $65 and the programming cable $10.
For more information, visit the
RobotOz website www.robotOz.
com.au The kit is manufactured
in the USA.
Assembly drawings in this article
courtesy Lynxmotion, Inc.
nuts & bolts (finger tight), then melting them slightly with your soldering
iron. We found in operation the nuts
continually working loose – and every
now and then poor old Hexapod
would “throw a leg”. An alternative
to melting (and therefore damaging)
the nuts and bolts would be a tiny
dab of glue.
There are quite a few programs to
try out on the disk which make the
robot do various things. Or if you have
web access you can try downloading
others from the manufacturer’s website, www.lynxmotion.com
You can also add other hardware
to your robot: an optional infrared
sensor is available which stops the
robot hitting objects. A cheaper option
is to fit a couple of microswitches
to the front of the robot as bumper
switches, connected to I/O pins 6 and
7 of the header socket. If the robot hits
anything, the switches tell the legs to
stop walking.
In this case, those two resistors
(R4, R5) we said to leave out at the
beginning, need to be fitted!
Remember, too, that the controller
on the robot is a full-blown PBASIC
Stamp microcontroller, not dissimilar
to that we used in the article “Getting
Going With BASIC Stamp” in the
January 1999 issue of SILICON CHIP.
You can write PBASIC programs or
download loads of them from websites
to do a whole lot of things apart from
SC
move your robot’s legs!
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Write to: Ask Silicon Chip, PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097.
Drift in digital
voltmeter
I built the Car Digital Voltmeter
from the June 1993 issue but have
experienced drift with the readout.
I recently checked the construction
and can’t find anything wrong. If I
let the meter stabilise overnight and
then re-calibrate it, I find that it still
drifts high.
Can you suggest a fix for this problem? The 7805 heatsink runs hotter
than I expected even though you make
mention of this in the construction
details. (T. W., via email).
• There are two components most
likely to cause a temperature drift:
trimpot VR1 and transistor Q1. Try
changing these.
Questions on electronic
ballast design
Recently I undertook to assemble
the “fluorescent driver” part of the
project that you published in October
1994 with the intention of powering
40W fluoro lamps. I have not been able
to obtain the saturable transformer
toroids (part no RCC 12.5/7.5/5 3F3).
However, I managed to obtain some
Small DC-DC
converter wanted
I have been looking through
SILICON CHIP to see if there have
been any projects that could fill my
requirements: a DC-DC converter,
as small as possible, the input to be
from 6-9V DC and with an output of
24-26V at 150-180mA. The load is a
light bulb rated at 24V and 150mA.
The source of input power is a from
D cell batteries.
I came across the item the April
1993 issue called a “High Voltage
Converter”. Do you feel that this
circuit would be suit
able? What
alternation would I need to make if
it is OK? And could I use a pot
similar sized cores from some PC
switchmode power supplies. These
plastic coated cores were separately
coloured as green, grey, white and
yellow. I assume that the colouring
refers to a code of some sort.
The green and grey toroids worked
but quickly became very hot. At
switch-on, the circuits operated at
85-90kHz and increased in frequency
up to 130kHz as the cores became hot.
I have experimented with the turns
ratio of T2 to try to reduce the operating frequency and the heating but the
output current decreases at the same
time. The only way that I have found
to reduce the operating frequency is
to close the gap in the inductor in
series with the fluoro tube but then
the output current decreases again.
It seems to be a catch-22 situation.
Since constructing the circuit (and
putting it on hold) I have reverse-engineered a commercial unit which
proved to be very similar except that
it used bipolar transistors instead
of Mosfets. This unit drives a 21W
U-shaped fluoro tube and runs at
30kHz. The driving toroid does not
heat up though the whole unit gets
warm while in operation.
The resonating capacitor in series
in place of RA1 and RA2 so that
I could adjust the output voltage
to the lamp? The variable arm of
the pot could go to the connection
joining the two 470µF capacitors.
Or would it be much more efficient
to use a pot core transformer with a
couple of power transistors? (R. B.,
Miranda, NSW).
• The April 1993 design is the one
that comes closest to your application. You need to use a bigger toroid
and change the feedback to obtain
24V. To do this, use just one value
for RA and change it to 18kΩ.
By the way, have you thought
of just using a 6V lamp in
stead,
to eliminate the need for a DC-DC
converter?
with the fluoro tube heaters was
temporarily increased to .0025µF (to
try to reduce the running frequency),
with the result that the circuit tries to
start but just keeps blinking. The same
happens when a 1000pF capacitor
is placed in parallel with the 680pF
snubber network capacitor.
Could I ask a number questions
in order to get this circuit operating?
(1). What are the required magnetic
properties of T2 (the saturable transformer) to assure correct and reliable
operation?
(2). What other (if any) toroids can be
used as substitutes for T2?
(3). What other means have I of reducing the operating frequency while still
maintaining sufficient output current?
(4). What formulas can I use to calculate the inductances and resonant
frequencies for various operating
powers?
(5). What formulas can I use to calculate the values of the capacitor and
resistor in the snubber network?
(6). What components are supposed
to run hot (if any)? It seems to me that
the electronic ballasts don’t seem to
be any more efficient (judging by the
amount of heat produced) than the
normal iron-cored ballasts. (L. Z.,
Kilburn, SA).
• The saturation properties of the
Philips RCC12.5/7.5/5 ferrite ring core
used for transformer T2 are critical for
correct operation of the circuit. Using
a different core from a switchmode
supply will not necessarily provide
the correct oscillation frequency to
drive the fluorescent tube at its rated
current. The nearest available core
is the RCC13.25/7.35/5.7 which is
available from Farnell Electronics
(Cat. 178-504). Its cross sectional area
and Al value are almost identical to
the recommended type.
Also, as you have discovered, you
cannot simply change the number of
turns on T2 and obtain the correct
frequency. The frequency is obtained
by reaching the point of saturation for
the T2 core, by adjusting the turns for
N2 and N3 which drive the gates of
JULY 1999 91
4Ω operation for
class-A amplifier
I have built your 15W class-A
amplifier as described in the July
and August 1998 issues and was
wanting to know a few things. If
the amplifier has a power output of
15W into 8-ohm loads with a quiescent current of 1A then at a guess
it will only have the same into
4-ohm loads and the head room
will be the quiescent current and
not the supply rail voltage. So if I
wanted to double the output power
into 4Ω I would need to double the
quiescent current. Is this correct?
I have Electronic Workbench 5
at home and have played with this
Q2 and Q3 respectively.
Note that the N1 winding on T2 is in
series with inductor L3 and forms part
of the series inductance with the fluorescent tube. The N2 and N3 windings
drive the 330Ω resistors at the gates of
the Mosfets and these provide a load
to produce the saturation in the core.
Calculating the turns for T2 is an
iterative process. We shall show how
the circuit values were calculated but
of course you will see that some of the
values that are needed to be used are
calculated later. The RCC12.5/7.5/5
core begins to saturate at about
450mT and its cross-sectional area is
12.2µm2. From this we can calculate
the approximate number of turns
required for N2 and N3. The formula
is T (number of turns) = V (voltage)/
(4.44 x frequency x A (cross sectional
area) x B (saturation in Tesla).
This works out to be 6.65 turns
using 21.6V for the voltage across the
windings and at 100kHz. (We assume
we can approach 600mT for a sine
wave before the saturation produces
a flux collapse. The 21.6V is obtained
as follows.
The number of turns required for N1
is found by ensuring that the voltage
across this winding will produce more
than 12V into N2 and N3 so that they
can drive the 12V zener via the 330Ω
resistors in parallel and the 330Ω
resistor across the zener. Analysis of
the resistive divider reveals that we
need at least 18V across N2 and N3 to
begin driving the zener. The voltage
is calculated using the inductance
92 Silicon Chip
circuit a lot and would like to know
how practical this idea would be
in practice. (Raymond – via email).
• The answer to your letter is not
simple. First, you can operate the
amplifier as it is into 4-ohm loads
but at the quiescent current of 1A
it will not stay in class-A if you
drive it to full power. This would
be about 25-30W, depending on the
power supply.
The result would be higher
distortion than if the system was
operating in class A at all times but
it will still be pretty good.
To obtain class-A operation at
all power levels up to clip
ping
into 4-ohm loads, the quiescent
current would have to be increased
of winding N1 and the divider ratio
formed by inductor L3. The inductance formula is:
L = N2 x Al (nH)
Al for the T2 core is 900nH and
thus with 14 turns on N1 we have an
inductance of 176µH. Now at 100kHz,
176µH has an impedance of 110Ω. The
impedance of the 900µH inductor L3
is 565.5Ω.
Assuming we have 310V across
both L3 and N1 at the time of saturation with about 90V across the fluorescent tube, the voltage across the
14 turns in N1 will be (110/675.5) x
300 = 50.4V. The voltage induced in
the 6 turns used for N2 and N3 will
be 21.6V.
The inductance of L3 is calculated
to limit the power delivered to the
tube, when running at 100kHz, to
36W. As mentioned, the impedance of
L3 and N1 totals 675.5Ω at 100kHz and
the 310V across this means that there
is 0.46A flowing. This current times
the 90V across the tube produces 41W.
The .001µF capacitor across C3 is to
produce a striking voltage for the tube
when kick-started via the Diac circuit
before oscillation begins. It oscillates
in conjunction with L3 and N1. Its
value does not affect the oscillation
frequency once Q2 and Q3 have begun
oscillation. Changing the value will
reduce the striking voltage.
The 680pF capacitor is used to
compensate the inductance of N1
and L3 for the gate capacitance of Q2
and Q3. Changing this value will not
overly affect normal operation but will
to around 2A. This raises a number
of problems. First, the heatsinks
would have to be increased in
size to be able to dissipate double
the power. Second, the heatsink
for the regulat
ed power supply
would need to be greatly increased
to take a substantial increase in
dissipation and if you are building
a stereo version you would need a
substantially bigger power trans
former as well.
Finally, the BC327,337 transistors (Q11,Q13) would have to be
upgraded and there is no suitable
pin-for-pin substitute. However,
provided you are willing to bend
the pins, you could use BC639 and
BC640.
affect the tube strike voltage when
the Diac is pulsing Q3. The 680pF
capacitor will damp oscillations in
the .001µF capacitor and series L3
and N1 inductance.
The T2 core is designed to run hot
because it is operating up to saturation point where losses are high. The
wattage loss, however, is small and the
overall efficiency of such an inverter is
very high, at above 90%. This is much
greater than a normal ballast circuit.
Having stated all this, are you sorry
you asked? Over the years quite a few
readers have asked questions about
design of inverters and switchmode
power supplies. As the above answers
demonstrate, the design of switchmode circuitry is not a simple task.
Inevitably, after all the theoretical
design is done, there is a great deal of
trial and error to optimise the design.
Pink noise source
has high output
I recently constructed the Pink
Noise Source as de
scribed in the
January 1997 issue of SILICON CHIP.
Initially its sound output was cyclically intermittent (squegging) after the
startup delay but this was corrected by
changing the noise source transistor
(Q1) to a BC548B. After a startup delay
of about seven seconds, the output
sounds OK but measured on a DVM
it is around 5.25V RMS on the 0dB
range instead of 60mV as specified.
All components have been measured
and checked well within tolerances.
Notes & Errata
Sustain Unit for Electric
Guitars, March 1998: the
BFR84 dual gate Mosfet
(Q1) is no longer available.
The solution is to substitute
a 2N5484 N-channel FET,
as shown on the accompanying overlay diagram.
An extra 22kΩ resistor is
required to alter the level
control voltage range from
VR3 and this can be connected between pins 2 & 4
of IC2a, on the back of the
PC board. Also the 0.1µF
capacitor between pins 8 &
9 of IC1c should be changed
to .001µF.
Have I missed something? (Doug – via
email).
• The 5.25V RMS that you are obtaining at the 0dB output of the pink
noise source must be a measurement
error. This is because the circuit is
powered from a 9V battery and even
if IC1b is being over-driven, it could
only deliver about 3V RMS.
Perhaps you are measuring the DC
voltage at the output of IC1b which
should be sitting at around half supply. Check the 10µF capacitor at this
output to see if it is short circuited.
Improving the ignition
on a Honda
I have a 1994 Honda Integra VTIr
and was wondering if I could use
the Multi-Spark Capacitor Discharge
Ignition kit (September 1997) on it.
I have seen similar products on the
market such as the Crane Hi6 ignition
amplifier so I figure that this kit would
do the same thing but at a fraction of
the cost. I have provided a portion of
the installation of the Crane Hi6 for
you to read, as it looks similar to your
kit. (Thanh – via email).
• Since your car already has a very
comprehensive engine management
system which includes solid state
ignition, we cannot see the point of
fitting the Multi-Spark CDI or any
commercial aftermarket system. The
only possible justification for fitting a
higher output ignition system would
be if the engine has been substantially modified to either increase its rev
limit or its compression ratio. In our
opinion, since you already have a
highly developed engine, you would
be wise to leave it alone.
Identifying an
unknown PC board
I have a kit with a PC board number SC09111931 which has a missing
output transistor (the big one with
the heatsink). I was wondering if you
can tell me what the transistor is or
where to get information on this kit.
(Michael – via email).
• If you search in the projects index
on our website you can identify any
project from the board number. This
board was a simple low voltage speed
controller featured in the January
1994 issue. The transistor is a BD679
and can be obtained from Jaycar,
DSE, etc.
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such projects should
be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be carried out according to
the instructions in the articles. When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact
with mains AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages or other high
voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability for damages should anyone
be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of SILICON CHIP magazine. Devices or circuits described in
SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing
or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims any liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant
government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the Trade Practices
Act 1974 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are applicable.
JULY 1999 93
MARKET CENTRE
Cash in your surplus gear. Advertise it here in Silicon Chip.
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YES!
Place your classified advertisement in
SILICON CHIP Market Centre and your
advert will also appear FREE in the
Classifieds-on-the-Web page of the
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And if you include an email address or
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links will be LIVE in your classified-on-the-web!
S!
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C LAS
EXCLUSIVE TO SILICON CHIP!
FOR SALE
C COMPILERS: everything you need
to develop C and ASM software for
68HC08, 6809, 68HC11, 68HC12,
68HC16, 8051/52, 8080/85, 8086,
8096 or AVR: $155.00 each. Macro
Cross Assemblers and Disassemblers
for above CPUs + 6800/01/03/05, 6502
and 68HC12 for $78. Debug monitors:
$78 for 6 CPUs. All compilers, XASMs
and monitors: $480. 8051/52 Simulator
(fast, now incl. 80C320): $78. Try the
C-FLEA Virtual Machine for small CPUs,
build a “C-Stamp”. Demo desk: FREE.
All prices + $5 p&p.
Atmel Flash CPU Programmer:
Handles the 89Cx051, the 89C5x and
89Sxx series, and the new AVRs in
both DIP and PLCC44. Also does most
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serial ISP cable. $199, $37 tax, $10
p&p. SOIC adaptors: 20-pin $90, 14-pin
Need prototype PC boards?
Positions At Jaycar
Printed Electronics, 12A Aristoc Rd,
Glen Waverley, Vic 3150.
We are often looking for enthusiastic staff
for positions in our retail stores and head
office at Rhodes in Sydney. A genuine
interest in electronics is a necessity. Phone
02 9743 5222 for current vacancies.
Phone: (03) 9545 3722; Fax: (03) 9545 3561
Call Mike Lynch and check us out!
We are the best for low cost, small runs.
Satellite TV Reception
International satellite TV reception in
your home is now
affordable. Send for
your free info pack
containing equipment
catalog, satellite lists, etc or call for
appointment to view. We can display
all satellites from 76.5° to 180°.
AV-COMM P/L, 198 Condamine St,
Balgowlah, NSW 2093.
Tel: 02 9949 7417 or 9948 2667.
Fax: 9949 7095; www.avcomm.com.au
94 Silicon Chip
KITS-R-US
PO Box 314 Blackwood S.A.
Ph/fax 08 8270 3175
FMTX2A Universal Stereo Coder $49
FMTX2B 30mW Xtal Locked 100MHz Transmitter $49
FMTX1 1-3 Watt Free Running Transmitter $49
FMX1 200mW Full Broadcast Transmitter, built & tested $499
FM220 10-18 Watt FM BGY133 Philips Linear $499
FM1525 25 Watt Discrete Linear FM Band $499
FM2100 110 Watt Discrete Linear FM Band $699
FM3000 300 Watt Discrete Linear FM Band $1499
Philips 828E/A VHF Receiver Boards (6 metres) $9
AWA 721 VHF Receiver Boards (2 metres) $9
AWA 721 VHF transmitter boards 1 watt (2 metres) $19
Philips 323 UHF transmitter boards 500mW (70cm) $19
AEM 35 Watt Little Brick Audio Power Amp $15
Digi-125 200W RMS Audio Power Amp $39
CA Clipper Compiler, new in box $49
6dBd Gain Colinear FM Band Antenna $999
Roll Smart-1 FM Station Audio Processor $999
Free catalog on disk of discounted surplus components
Same day shipping, credit cards OK, circuits supplied.
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Fax (02) 9631 1236; or Internet:
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WEATHER STATIONS: Windspeed &
direction, inside temperature, outside
temperature & windchill. Records highs
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$420.00 complete plus sales tax if appli
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Used by Government Departments,
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Other models with barometric pressure,
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SPEAKERWORKS: specialist in speaker repairs and parts. DIY refoam kits:
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TELEPHONE EXCHANGE SIMULATOR, SC February 1998. Test equipment without the cost of telephone lines.
$190. MAGNETIC CARD READER,
SC January 1996. Holds up to 8 cards.
Use as a door lock. $65. Melbourne
9806 0110.
PHILIPS SCOPE PM3217 $755;
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TEST EQUIPMENT: Spectrum Analyser Hewlett Packard 8559A with 182T
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Complete with all manuals. $10,000 neg.
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THE LOGIC ANALYSER KIT will stay
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peter.baxter<at>tantau.com.au
www.tantau.com.au
VIDEO CAMERAS & CCTV ! UP to 2¼ YEARS WARRANTY! PIR MOVEMENT DETECTOR with inbuilt concealed
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CCD or DSP COLOUR from $132 * 32 x 32 PINHOLE
PCB Modules with On-Board Microphone from $85 *
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MICROPHONE from $155 * MINI 36 x 36 Cameras from
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from $160 * 50 LED DIY Infra Red Kits only $19 * Plus
full range of ANCILLARY EQUIPMENT * DISCOUNTS:
Based on ORDER VALUE, BUYING HISTORY, for CASH /
CHEQUE & NZ BUYERS ! BEFORE YOU BUY Ask about
New Enquiry Offer & visit our Web Site at www.allthings.
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SATELLITE TV RXs * MPEG Digital EPG $499 * COMBINATION Digital / Analog $649 * COMBINATION Digital / Analog
/ Positioner $799 * www.allthings.com.au * Allthings Sales
& Services 08 9349 9413
SOLAR PANELS: buy by mail and save! 75 watt from
$590.00, unbreakable s/steel 64 watt $555.00. Largest
manufactured: 120 watt $995.00, flexible 32 watt $475.00.
All other sizes available, top brands, lowest prices.
INVERTERS: budget inverters from $110.00 (12V 140W).
High quality pure sine wave inverters from $390.00. Call with
your requirements.
WIND GENERATORS: wide variety available, call with
requirements.
TASMAN ENERGY Free call 1800 226626
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS for all magazine projects, then
go to http://www.cia.com.au/rcsradio
RCS Radio – Bexley (+61 2) 9587 3491.
RTN Australia Parallax distributor: Basic Stamps BS1, BS2,
BS2-SX all ex stock. Chipsets also available for high volume
applications. SX development tools and chips also available.
New super BS1/2 development board Oz made now available.
Custom I/O extender chips for the Basic Stamps. Serial Led
driver kits, a/d kits, temperature kits, etc. FerretTronics servo and stepper motor chips. TiePie HandyScope HS2, Dos
and Win software included. Ph/Fax (03) 9338 3306. Email:
nollet<at>mail.enternet.com.au
Http://people.enternet.com.au/~nollet
SILICON
CHIP
This section contained
advertising which is
now out of date and it
has been removed to
prevent
misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit
the advertiser’s
website:
www.jaycar.com.au
JULY 1999 95
CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING RATES
Advertising Index
Advertising rates for this page: Classified ads: $10.00 for up to 12 words plus 50
cents for each additional word. Display ads (casual rate): $25 per column centimetre (Max. 10cm). Closing date: five weeks prior to month of sale.
To run your classified ad, print it clearly on a separate sheet of paper, fill out the
form & send it with your cheque or credit card details to: Silicon Chip Classifieds,
PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097. Or fax the details to (02) 9979 6503.
Aust. Audio Consultants...............57
Enclosed is my cheque/money order for $__________ or please debit my
EMC Technologies.......................56
❏ Bankcard ❏
Emona Instruments...................IFC
Visa Card ❏ Master Card
Av-Comm Pty Ltd.........................94
Coffs Harbour Electronics............57
Computronics Corporation..........56
Dick Smith Electronics........... 14-17
Harbuch Electronics....................55
Card No.
Instant PCBs................................94
Jaycar .............................. 45-52,95
Signature__________________________ Card expiry date______/______
Name ______________________________________________________
Street ______________________________________________________
Suburb/town ___________________________ Postcode______________
Kits-R-Us.....................................94
Microgram Computers..............3,57
MicroZed Computers...................56
Nucleus Computer Services........57
Oatley Electronics........................35
Printed Electronics................. 56,94
Questronix...................................56
ELECTRONIC/MECHANICAL DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION. We
offer a complete design service for
electronic and mechanical devices.
Most work is done in house and you
deal directly with the designers. No job
is too small and can be to prototype or
“turn key” stage, in one offs or for future
production. Simply send us an email at
vladimir<at>u030.aone.net.au with your
questions or requirements and we will
get back to you.
Silvertone’s RC Receiver
Still the best little performer available!
RAIN BRAIN AND DIGI-TEMP KITS: 8
station sprinkler controllers, 60 channel
temp monitor uses DS1820s over 500
metres. Has PC Data logging. Mantis
Micro Products,
http://www.home.aone.net.au/mantismp
96 Silicon Chip
RobotOz......................................56
Silicon Chip Binders/Wallcht....OBC
Silicon Chip Bookshop............... 8-9
Silicon Chip Subscriptions...........67
Silvertone Electronics..................96
Win $500USD cash dontronics.com
Smart Fastchargers.....................23
ELECTRONICS FOR BEGINNERS
COURSES: including DC & AC principles and operational amplifiers. Community Colleges. Monday evenings from 26
July, Tuesday evenings from 27 July or
Saturdays 9-5 from 31 July. Enquiries:
02 9130 7988.
Solar Flair/Ecowatch....................94
WORKBOOK FOR SALE: “Electronics
for Beginners Stage 1, DC Electrical
Principles”. Phone 02 9130 7988.
Printed circuit boards for SILICON
CHIP projects are made by:
A NEW address for Acetronics
http://www.acetronics.com.au
On-line PCB quotes, free software, DIY
PCB supplies plus many other items &
services. 02 9743 9235.
Still only $129.50 AM or $149.50 FM.
May be used with most ppm transmitters. This and many other radio control
products available from:
Silvertone Electronics, PO Box 580,
Riverwood 2210.
Phone/Fax (02) 9533 3517.
www.silvertone.com.au
Resurrection Radio......................69
PCBS MADE, ONE OR MANY. Low
prices, hobbyists welcome. Sesame
Electronics (02) 9554 9760
sesame<at>internetezy.com.au; http://
members.tripod.com/~sesame_elec
1A LASER DIODE DRIVER, 3W head
laser power monitor, IR laser diode with
housing, greatly reduced price, e-mail
Truscott’s Electronic World...........23
Vass Electronics..........................55
Zoom EFI Special......................IBC
_____________________________
PC Boards
• RCS Radio Pty Ltd, 651 Forest
Rd, Bexley, NSW 2207. Phone (02)
9587 3491.
• Marday Services, PO Box 19-189,
Avondale, Auckland, NZ. Phone (09)
828 5730.
lmatthee<at>perthpcug.org.au for details and pictures
KIT ASSEMBLY
ANY KITS assembled/repaired: professional, speedy service. Phone Neville
Walker (07) 3857 2752.
Own an EFI car?
Want to get the
best from it?
Youll find all you
need to know in
this publication
|