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Own an EFI car?
Want to get the
best from it?
Youll find all you
need to know in
this publication
Contents
Vol.12, No.5; May 1999
FEATURES
3 A Web Site That’s Out Of This World
Take a look at www.terraserver.microsoft.com – by Ross Tester
8 Model Plane Flies The Atlantic
It’s only a model but this Australian-designed aircraft has flown across
the Atlantic – by Bob Young
72 SPECIAL OFFER: Low-Cost Internet Access
No time limits, no download limits, no fine print – and no hassles
80 Getting Started With Linux; Pt.3
Configuring Linux as a file and printer sharer and as a router for shared Internet access – by Bob Dyball
X-Y Table With Stepper Motor
Control – Page 24.
PROJECTS TO BUILD
16 The Line Dancer Robot
This cute little robot is easy to build and makes a great school or fun
project – by Andersson Nguyen
24 An X-Y Table With Stepper Motor Control; Pt.1
Use it to control a router or for automatically drilling PC boards – by Rick
Walters & Ken Ferguson
37 Three Electric Fence Testers
Check your electric fence without getting a nasty shock – by John Clarke
56 Heart Of LEDS
Build it for Mother’s Day. It has a microcontroller which drives 30 LEDs
in a matrix, arranged in the shape of a heart – by Les Grant
61 Build A Carbon Monoxide Alarm
Easy-to-build unit has two warning levels, detects CO gas concentrations
down to 200ppm – by John Clarke
Three Electric Fence Testers –
Page 37.
Just For
Mother’s
Day: Heart
Of LEDs –
Page 56.
SPECIAL COLUMNS
29 Serviceman’s Log
Life’s tough without TimTams – by the TV Serviceman
86 Vintage Radio
Restoring the butchered set – by Rodney Champness
DEPARTMENTS
2
44
53
70
74
Publisher’s Letter
Order Form
Product Showcase
Mailbag
Circuit Notebook
90
93
94
96
Ask Silicon Chip
Notes & Errata
Market Centre
Advertising Index
Build A Carbon Monoxide Alarm
– Page 61.
MAY 1999 1
PUBLISHER'S LETTER
www.siliconchip.com.au
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2 Silicon Chip
GPS navigation
in cars
How many times have you been really frustrated as you drove down an unknown city
street? While I know Sydney comparatively
well, there have been times when I have been
completely lost, in spite of the fact that I had
an up-to-date street directory open on the seat
beside me. One of the big problems, in Sydney
at least, is that there just aren’t enough street
signs and some of the signs on major highways
are downright misleading.
On some long streets in Sydney, you can
travel for kilometres without seeing a sign
which clearly identifies the street you’re actually on. And many a driver has
been unwittingly forced to cross the Harbour Bridge, the Harbour Tunnel
or has entered a tollway because of confusing signs. I am sure that this is
partly because the bureaucrats who design the signs never actually travel
on the roads where they are posted.
But now there is a solution in the form of GPS navigation in cars. This
has been available for a number of years in up-market BMWs and in recent
months has been available as a no-cost option in Hyundai Sonatas. And it
has just been released as an option in Holden Commodores. The system
covers Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Perth, Adelaide and Canberra, as well
as major highways. It draws information from three local global positioning
satellites, maps on CD-ROM and the vehicle’s speed and direction to guide
you through a maze of city streets.
Your car is actually depicted on an on-screen map, with all the streets
identified. And the map moves as you drive along, which is a big advance
over what happens when you are using a street directory – when you change
the page you have to orientate yourself again.
You can set up the system to give you voice prompts along the way to
a particular location and it will give you plenty of warning of up-coming
turns; with calm, measured suggestions in dulcet tones. This could be a
real boon for me - some of the most heated arguments I’ve ever had with
my wife concerned street directions. Why is that? What is it about driving
along unknown streets that causes stress with your loved one?
Mind you, even with GPS navigation in a car, I’m not sure that there would
not still be the occasional uttered swear word. Let’s face it: city streets will
still be city streets and the traffic will still be the same.
On the other hand, the GPS navigation system in the Commodore is pretty
pricey at $4495, considering that the Hyundai Sonata’s is at no extra cost
and the cost of some handheld GPS receivers is now under $300. On the
positive side, this technology can only get cheaper.
In the meantime, I might have to continue to make do with the street
directory. Either that or catch taxis!
Leo Simpson
www.terraserver.microsoft.com
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Recently we came across a web site that could be
described as the world’s greatest site – in the
true sense of the word great, that is.
www.terraserver.microsoft.com is, without doubt,
the world’s largest site and its contents could
truly be described as “out of this world”.
With more than 1.2TB of data,
TerraServer contains more data
than all the HTML pages on the web
combined.
Hang on a minute, what’s a TB?
You’ve heard of megabytes (most web
sites are less than 1MB). Next up the
scale is the gigabyte (GB), or 1,000MB.
A terabyte, TB, is 1,000,000MB or
1,000,000,000,000 bytes. That's equivalent to about a billion pages of text
or four million books. Whew!
What occupies this mind-boggling
storage space? Thousands upon thousands of black and white photographs
of the Earth, taken from one of two
satellites over the past decade or so.
One of those satellites is courtesy of
the United States Geological Survey
and the other is from the Russian
Space Agency, Sovinformsputnik.
The US satellite has concentrated
mainly on the United States, while
the Russians are responsible for
most of the rest of the world. While
most populated areas of the US are
covered, the rest of the world is someMAY 1999 3
MAY 1999 3
You can point and click to anywhere on the world map
shaded in green (we've enlarged the map of Australia to
show the areas that aren't covered). The area under the
map allows you to select a number of famous places.
what less represented – and patchy.
In Australia, Melbourne, Brisbane
and Perth are all covered but for some
reason, the centre of the Universe
(Sydney, to those living in it) is not.
Melbourne, Brisbane and Perth readers are probably saying “rightly so!”
Enough frivolity: let’s get back to
TerraServer. By a happy coincidence
(?), tera not only means 1012, add
another “r” and you have the Latin
word for earth.
The surface area of the Earth is
about 500 square terametres (there’s
that word again!), of which about
100 are dry land. Of that, only about
four square terametres are populated,
the rest being mountain, desert, ice
capped, farmland and so on.
The Soviets have so far managed to
photograph about two square tera-metres, or about half of the populated
area. While some of the information
is getting a little dated (Melbourne, for
example, was photographed in 1991),
it is still a valuable source of information for a huge variety of people. The
Soviet images, by the way, are called
SPIN-2, a reference to that two square
terabytes.
Or you search for a city/area and see if it is covered. The
two columns on the right show the images from the US
(left) and Russian (right) satellites. Point and click on
either to load the respective image.
virtually seamless precision.
Those 16 photos will give you a base
resolution of 16m to the centimetre.
Click on an area of the photograph and
the next resolution will load, this time
at 8 to the centimetre. The highest resolution depends on the source of the
photos: the US satellite pics are at the
incredible resolution of 1m per pixel.
That’s enough to pick out individual cars on a roadway but not, as you
might have seen in spy movies, read
their number plates or view the driver.
Incidentally, such resolution, in real
time, is believed to be possible from
many of the spy satellites now in use.
Number plates with their 100mm high
letters are said to be a doddle.
Fairly believable reports state that
today’s spy satellites are good enough
to pick up the dateline on the front of
a newspaper (usually about 12-14pt
type) while less believable rumours
state that the latest generation of spy
satellites can actually read the news-
How does it work?
When you access the TerraServer
web site, you are presented with a
map of the world with photographed
areas coloured green.
Click on any of these areas and the
photographs for that area begin to
download. When we say photographs,
we mean just that: up to 16 photographs are assembled on screen with
4 Silicon Chip
Melbourne's CBD as loaded from TerraServer. This is the lowest resolution image
but even this is more than adequate to easily spot major landmarks – Docklands,
the Yarra and the MCG, for example. We've also chosen the lowest size – this
could be increased to full screen with the buttons on the left side of the screen.
This montage covers roughly Ascot Vale in the top left to Richmond bottom right.
paper itself (usually 7 or 8pt type!)
But we digress – again.
The resolution from the Russian-sourced photos is not quite as
good; they are at 1.56 metres per pixel.
More importantly, though, if you want
to view hi-res images from the Russian
source, you have to pay for them.
But we imagine that most people
using the site will be more than happy
viewing the on-screen images (free).
Hey, look, there’s our house. . .
Terabytes of storage
To hold, access and download
Terabytes of information you might
expect a system that’s a bit more than
an old AT with a big hard disc. And
you’d be right!
The TerraServer system runs on a
Digital Alpha 8400 system with eight
(yes, 8) 440MHz Digital Alpha processors and a massive ten gigabytes
(10GB) of memory (yes, memory!).
The machine is connected to seven
dual-ported Ultra-SCSI host-bus adaptors, each of which interfaces with a
disc drive cabinet containing 46 nine
gigabyte drives.
Quickly doing a bit of mental
arithmetic, 7 x 46 is 322 drives, plus
the couple in the Digital Alpha 8400
– means a system with 324 drives
totalling 2.9TB of storage. Using a
RAID (redundant array of independent
discs) setup, the drives are configured
to act as four logical drives of 595GB
each.
SQL Server Enterprise Edition
stripes the database across the four
logical volume. After taking the
data-management overhead into account, the array has about 2.4TB of
storage capacity. And if something
goes wrong, there’s a tape back-up
which can handle 5TB of data.
The system runs on Microsoft NT
Server V4.0 with SQL Server, already
mentioned.
Here is the Brisbane
CBD and inner west,
photographed from
space courtesy of the
Russian satellite. This
covers an area from
about The Gap top left
through to Kangaroo Pt
in the bottom right. The
white lines in the centre
of this pic are where the
joins between frames
(automatically done
on download) were not
quite seamless.
Enlarging up one step
we find the CBD coming
more clearly into view,
along with the bridges
over the Brisbane River.
Note the shadow cast by
the Story Bridge (right
side) – obviously an
early morning photograph. The advert (top
right) helps pay for the
site so it’s free for you to
browse.
We’ve enlarged again but
this time also selected the
larger view. We're
looking here at Brisbane
City, with the Roma
Street station and goods
yard along with the
Brisbane River bottom
left. At this scale you can
start to pick out vehicles
on the bridge and rail
wagons.
Who pays for it all?
Love ’em or loathe ’em, you have to
take your hat off to the people at Microsoft for getting behind this project.
While the site is also supported by
on-screen adverts (not too intrusive,
as you’ll see from the screen grabs), it
would appear that Mr Gates and his
team are the money behind it.
Of course, this is also an excellent
advertisement for Microsoft and its
operating system: if it can handle the
world’s largest website 24 hours a day,
Enlarged yet again to
the highest resolution,
this time back on the
eastern City with the
Story Bridge/Kangaroo
Point on the right.
Note the grey patches
middle and lower left
– these are glitches in
the system which can
sometimes be removed
by refreshing the screen.
MAY 1999 5
By way of contrast, here is an image
of the San Francisco Fisherman's
Wharf area, taken from the USGS
satellite. There’s not a huge amount to
choose from in this screen image but
remember you can download a hi-res
image of any of the USGS files free of
charge. The Russian SPIN-2 images
are also available but you have to pay
for them!
such as this, we want to use a system
typical of that which most readers
would have (we were using a midrange 486 with a pretty good graphics
card and a fast [56K] modem). One of
these days we’ll give it a fly on a fast
Pentium II machine with heaps more
“grunt” just to see how it goes.
Obtaining images
seven days a week, think how easy
your system will work. . . Naturally,
accessing Microsoft’s MSN is only a
click away from the site, too.
Others supporting the venture are
Compaq, Storageworks and Storagetek.
Once loaded, you can also move in
any direction from that photo to the
next (we have difficulty not calling
them maps, but they are real photos)
by clicking on any of the eight green
arrow buttons around the edge of the
pic.
Accessing images
But wait, there’s more!
We’ve described how easy it is to
“point and click” to obtain any area
on Earth. But there’s more than one
way to skin a dead cat, so to speak.
You can also type a place name into
the system’s search engine and it will
find ALL places on Earth with that
name. (Bet you didn’t know that there
are 16 Sydneys, did you?).
If the location is on the database,
alongside it will be one or two clickable filenames. One column lists the
USGS images, the second the Russian
images. If the name is present, clicking has the same effect as clicking
a location on the world map. When
it loads, the name of the location is
shown above the photo image.
In fact, the name may be much
more localised than you asked for:
we loaded Brisbane by clicking on it,
zoomed in and found that the name
had changed to Petrie Terrace. Sure
enough, our image showed the Brisbane suburb of Petrie Terrace!
You don’t have to search for just a
location, either: a pull-down menu lets
you specify a qualifier such as river,
bay, airport and so on.
There are also images of famous
places to view (mainly US, of course),
many in superb resolution. But where
is the Sydney Opera House or the
Coathanger?
As you might expect, the site is
continually evolving and will – hopefully – contain many more areas in the
not-to-distant future.
A couple of negative comments,
though: downloading huge files
(which is what you are doing) takes
a significant amount of time. And the
system is by no means perfect – we
found several times that one frame out
of 16 simply refused to load; or one,
perhaps two frames were corrupted,
with “holes” in them or areas not
appearing.
Sometimes, the seams between adjacent frames did not quite work and
a thin white line appeared.
And sometimes, frames simply refuse to load. In many cases, hitting the
“refresh” tab cleared these problems,
but not always.
It is more than possible that some of
the limitations in the system were at
our end. But whenever we do reports
6 Silicon Chip
The vast majority of web surfers
would simply visit the site to view
places of interest. But if you want to
obtain hi-res images, you can. If they
are from the USGS satellite you can
download them free of charge.
The Russian images, though, will
cost you (they’re actually provided
by an American supplier – good ol’
capitalism strikes again!). Details are
provided on the web site.
If you get the impression that we’re
pretty impressed with www.terraserver.microsoft.com, you’re spot on.
Not just because of its awesome
size and power; not just because it’s
a site which will interest everybody;
not just because it’s a technological
breakthrough; not just because of its
ease-of-use and, to use a hackneyed
term these days, “user friendliness”.
We’re also mightily impressed that,
even if the technology to do all this
was available a decade or so ago (it
wasn’t!), can you imagine the Russians
allowing Americans access to what
would be (then) a top-secret photo
library and then make it available to
the world?
Let’s just hope the spirit of cooperation which has seen this site evolve
can find its way into other areas of
technology.
SC
Acknowledgement:
Much of the technical information in this
article first appeared in the US magazine, Popular Electronics, March 1999.
Screen grabs courtesy of www.terraserver.microsoft.com
*Full details at www.tol.com.au
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When most people think of radio controlled aircraft, they imagine
small models that fly around a small field. But this Australian
designed and manufactured aircraft has crossed the Atlantic and
performed many other record feats.
The idea of a robot aircraft flying
at 40,000 feet and with a range of up
to 7000km takes some getting used
to, especially when you realise that
commercial jet aircraft fly at the same
height and have a similar range.
Add in the fact that this radiocontrolled aircraft has a wing‑span
of only three metres and weighs only
15kg and the feat is all the more incredible.
In what must be one of the leastpublicised epics for some time, the
North Atlantic was crossed by the
Australian-designed Aerosonde robotic aircraft in August 1998. The
Aerosonde was the first robotic aircraft
to cross the North Atlantic Ocean and
it was also the smallest aircraft ever
to do so.
8 Silicon Chip
As you might imagine, for a crossing
of the Atlantic the aircraft is not under
radio control for most of the flight.
Instead, the Aerosonde employs an
autopilot and GPS fixes to guide it
most of the way. So notable has this
aircraft become that it is now a joint
development with the US military
and its future uses could be quite
widespread.
The history‑making Aerosonde,
nicknamed “Laima,” landed smoothly
on a field at the Benbecula military
range in the Outer Hebrides, Scotland,
after a 27‑hour non‑stop flight from St
Johns, Newfoundland, Canada.
By BOB YOUNG
Powered by a tiny one‑cylinder 20cc
engine, the aircraft autonomously
guided itself across the 3200km stretch
of the North Atlantic while burning
less than six litres of fuel!
The Aerosonde rigorously maintained a flight path approved by aviation authorities and landed exactly
as scheduled while collecting meteorological data throughout the flight.
The tiny aircraft is packed with
computers, a communications radio,
a GPS satellite guidance system and
meteorological instruments.
This crossing followed extensive
trials held in Australia, Canada and
Asia over the previous year. It followed
a path similar to that taken by the first
Atlantic manned crossing by Alcock
and Brown.
Hard to believe, but as the tiny Aerosonde makes a low pass over an airfield it could be coming in to land
after a flight of thousands of kilometres from who knows where.
The flight was conducted by the
University of Washington and US engineering company, The Insitu Group,
using aircraft purchased by the University from co‑developer Environmental
Systems and Services.
“We’ve flown the same mission as
a $10 million unmanned craft at a
fraction of the cost,” said Professor
Juris Vagners of the University of
Washington Aeronautics and Astronautics department. The aircraft cost
$US25,000.
Aerosonde development has been
underway since 1992. Phase I Aero-sondes were given their full operational trial by the Bureau of Meteorology in early 1998 and passed with
flying colours.
In addition, Aerosonde RA have
conducted several missions in Australia, Taiwan, Canada and the United
States, including flights of over 30
hours and at 16,000 feet.
To date over 30 Phase I Aerosondes
have been delivered. Their specifications are as shown in Table 1.
Aerosonde is currently working on
a Phase 2 version which will have
a range up to 7000km, up to 5 days
endurance and a ceiling of 40,000 feet.
While Aerosonde resembles a model
aircraft externally, this resemblance is
purely superficial.
True, some components are essentially model aircraft components,
however the operationing systems are
structured along traditional military
lines.
Take‑off and landings are arranged
so that manual or automatic control
can be engaged. Manual control is en-
gaged when the pilot plugs his control
box into the computer control console.
Currently, all take‑offs and landings
are done under manual control.
The Aerosonde uses a gyroscopic
autopilot and standard model aircraft
servos but the details of these have not
been released.
The aircraft is a joint Australian/
American design and manufacture
has commenced at Melbourne. Component manufacture is contracted to
a number of Australian and interna-
Table 1: Phase 1 Aerosonde Specifications
Wingspan: .............. 3 metres
Weight: ................... 15kg
Engine:.................... 20cc petrol (Avgas)
Performance:........... Cruise 20‑30m/s
Range:..................... >3,000km,
Endurance .............. >30 hours
Height Range: ........ Surface to 16,000 feet
Payload:................... 1‑2 kg
Operation:................ Autonomous
Navigation:.............. GPS
Communication:...... UHF Radio, Satellite
Observations:.......... Wind, Pressure, Height, Temperature, Moisture
MAY 1999 9
tional groups.
Following a series of engineering
demonstrators built in 1992-94, the
first Aerosonde suitable for field testing was flown in June 1995.
In November, the Aerosonde Development Consortium took several
examples to Melville Island north of
Darwin for the Maritime Continent
Thunderstorm Experiment. This was
primarily for engineering trials, since
at the time of deployment they had
flown less than 50 hours
Since then, Aerosondes have come
a long way.
They can be used for meteorological
and environmental monitoring. For
example, they are able to do some very
useful work in monitoring sea breeze
fronts, gust fronts and storms, working
with Doppler radar.
Winds and thermodynamic data
measured during the more interesting
missions, along with more details on
the aircraft, are available on the MCTEX web page at www.aerosonde.com
An interesting point is that the
Aerosonde cannot determine wind
by the standard wind‑triangle method
whereby wind is calculated directly
by differencing groundspeed and airspeed vectors.
This is because while it has vector
groundspeed from its GPS, it does not
have a heading sensor. Hence true
airspeed is known only as a scalar.
It turns out that vector groundspeed
and scalar airspeed provide sufficient
information for wind‑finding if they
are compared through the course of
a turn, say through about a quarter of
a circle. The algorithm is given in the
Aerosonde RA publications.
Aerosonde flight‑plan segments
therefore include a specified interval
for wind‑finding S‑turns.
Wind-finding requires about 10 seconds manoeuvring (spatial resolution
of about 200 metres).
The following flight reports downloaded from the Aerosonde web site
make interesting reading:
“1996: 24 HOUR FLIGHT ‑ 21st
November 1996
At about 5 in the afternoon of 21
November 1996, Aerosonde Morti‑
cia landed at Geelong, having flown
around the local model‑aircraft field
for 24 hours at about 300m altitude. It
Fig.1: this is the flight track of the record‑breaking North Atlantic flight. This consisted of a series of way points for a route
that went slightly south of a great circle (shortest distance) to the landing site at DERA Benbecula Range in the Outer
Hebrides. The altitude was specified at 1680m, dropping to around 150m on approach to Benbecula. Before launch,
complete flight simulations had been made using winds provided by the US NOAA/NCEP model to provide approximate
times at each way point.
10 Silicon Chip
some tall clover.
Overall the performance was quite
comparable to a good manual land‑
ing. Although the landing was done
under autopilot, it was not quite au‑
tonomous; guidance onto the runway
centreline was done visually from the
ground station rather than being left
to the onboard tracker.
However the test produced good
results in position measurement by
differential GPS, so the next step to
fully autonomous landing will be
straightforward.”
The Aerosonde is normally launched from a cradle atop a car roof rack.
Takeoff is normally under manual control but can be be completely automatic,
as can the landing on a remote field.
had enough fuel on board for another
10 hours or so of flying.
Meteorological data were reported
throughout, in conditions ranging
from fair at the start to blustery, with
heavy showers as a cold front moved
through early on the 21st.
For us this was a milestone in not
only basic performance, but also
reliability and readiness for routine
operations.
Several more such flights will have
to be successful before we feel con‑
fident but certainly the program is
steadily developing towards reliable
and repeatable operations.”
“1997: AUTOMATIC TAKEOFF
AND LANDING ‑ 22nd September
1997
On 22nd September 1997 an impor‑
tant step was taken toward automatic
rather than manual control of takeoff
and landing. In a one‑hour test at
Trout Lake in Washington, Aerosonde
Millionaire flew under autopilot con‑
tinuously from launch to touchdown.
Figures show the landing as plotted
on ground‑station displays.
The aircraft touched down smoothly
on the Trout Lake runway, made one
small bounce and a large‑angle yaw,
and then decelerated rapidly through
All in all the Aerosonde project is
a credit to the dreamers who dared to
make it happen. What an audacious
project: to send a single engine, miniature aircraft across one of the most
hostile stretches of ocean in the world.
Once again we see vividly demonstrated, that by standing on the shoulders of giants, we can see past the
crowds who would otherwise limit
our vision.
Where will this all lead? The developers envisage a global robotic
airline operating out of Australia with
a distributed set of launch and recovery sites (“airports” if you like) and a
global command site possibly located
SC
in Melbourne.
Acknowledgement:
Much of the material in this article
courtesy of Aerosonde Robotic
Aircraft Pty Ltd.
For more information, visit their
website, www.aerosonde.com.au
MAY 1999 11
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
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Here’s A Great
School or Club Project:
The Line
Dancer
This cute little robot is quite
single‑minded: it will follow
a black line on a white
surface and if it meets an
obstruction it will come
to a stop.
And to add visual
interest, it has a six‑LED
“scanner” which flashes
back and forth and a
two‑LED flasher as well.
Best of all, it uses simple
electronics and readily
available mechanical
parts.
By ANDERSSON NGUYEN
16 Silicon Chip
P
owered by four AA batteries,
the Line Dancer is an ideal
high school electronics or
industrial arts project, giving experience in Perspex work, metal work,
electronics soldering, construction
and even printed circuit manufacture
if desired.
The Line Dancer is roughly cylindrical in shape and has three wheels,
two at the back to drive it and a trailing
castor at the front to allow it to go
around corners. Above the drive system is the circular PC board carrying
the electronics and above that again
is the battery holder.
The two driving wheels are individually driven by miniature motor/
gearbox assemblies. The collision
avoidance system uses ultrasonic
trans
d ucers which are driven at
40kHz.
Fig.1 shows the simplicity of the
circuit driving the Line Dancer. The
line sensing circuit works on the
principle of reflected light. There are
two motors, one for each rear wheel
and each is controlled by its own
light- sensing circuit.
So let’s look at the right motor and
its sensor circuit first. When its sensor,
photodiode D14, is positioned over a
white (light-reflecting) background, it
picks up light from the high intensity
LED7 and this causes D14 to conduct.
Note that the photodiode (D14) is of
a type used in IR remote controls but
without the IR filters and it reacts to
white light. As you can see, the pho-
to-diode is reverse‑biased and in the
absence of light, it is non-conducting.
When it picks up light from LED7, it
conducts and so the voltage at the
base of Q3 drops to around 0.3V or
less, which turns off Q3.
Therefore the collector of Q3 and
pin 8 of NAND gate IC4c is high. Assuming for a moment that the other
input (pin 9) to IC4c is also high, pin
10 of IC4c will be low and this will
cause transistor Q2 to conduct and
drive the right motor.
The circuitry for the left drive motor, involving LED8, photodiode D15
and transistors Q4 & Q5, together with
NAND gate IC4b, works in exactly the
same way.
The sensors and their respective
illuminating LEDs are mounted on
either side of the robot and hence are
on either side of the black line. Supposing that the robot is “on track”, that
is the black line is essentially in the
middle, then both sensors receive reflected light from the light background
and so both motors are running and
the Line Dancer crawls forward.
Now, when the robot encounters
a curve in the black track, or deviates to one side (as it will inevitably
do, particularly on long stretches of
straight track) as a result of unequal
motor speeds, one of the LEDs will
cut onto the track, reducing its reflection. The photodiode sensor then
stops conducting, becomes effectively
a high resistance and the associated
transistor (Q3 or Q5) switches on.
As a result, the input to its respective NAND gate becomes low and the
motor drive transistor switches off
and its motor stops.
Since the opposite motor continues
to move forward, the robot is forced
to rotate to the opposite side, taking
the turned‑off photodiode away from
the black track whereby both motors
can run again.
When turning 90° around a curve,
this process usually occurs several
times, depending on the radius of
curvature. On long straight stretches,
the robot will tend to zigzag a little
as a result of slightly unequal motor
speeds.
Collision avoidance
The circuit responsible for obstacle
detection revolves around an ultrasonic receiver/transmitter pair. The
transmitter is driven by a 555 timer
operating at around 40kHz.
When the Line Dancer encounters
an obstacle, the 40kHz signal from the
ultrasonic transducer is reflected by
the obstacle to the ultrasonic receiver.
Its output signal is amplified by
transistor Q1 which drives a diode
pump circuit consisting of diodes D10
& D11 and capacitors C3 & C4.
The resulting DC signal across C4 is
fed to op amp IC2 which is connected as a Schmitt trigger. The Schmitt
trigger’s switching thresholds are set
by resistors R4 & R8 and so if the DC
voltage at pin 2 is a few volts or more,
the output at pin 6 will switch low,
Front (above) and rear (right) views of the Line Dancer. Only the rear wheels are driven, their drive proportional to the
amount of light reflected from the underneath surface. If one photodiode detects more light than its partner it says “Hey!
I'm going off course” and applies more power to its motor, bringing the Line Dancer back onto the black line.
MAY 1999 17
pulling low pins 6, 9, 12 & 13 of IC4,
the NAND gate package. This disables
gates IC4b & IC4c, stopping the drive
to both motors. It also drives IC4d
which is connected as an inverter and
this pulls pin 13 of IC1 high, stopping
it from operating.
LED scanner
IC1 is a 4017 decade counter wired
as a 6‑LED scanner. Its clock signal is
provided by IC4a, the remaining 2‑
input NAND gate, which is wired as
a Schmitt trigger oscillator running
at about 10Hz. It clocks IC1 which
counts up to 10 in the normal way,
with each of its 10 outputs going high
in succession.
LED1 and LED6 are wired directly
to the “0” and “5” outputs respectively but LEDs 5, 4, 3 & 2 are each wired
via a pair of diodes to two respective
outputs of IC1.
This results in the LED array flash-
ing back and forth to give the “scanning” effect as IC1 counts from 0 to 9.
Three diodes in the circuit remain
to be mentioned. D12 and D13 serve
to decrease voltage to the motors
because they are nominally rated at
4.5V, while diode D9 is connected in
series with the positive supply lead
from the 6V battery pack. It provides
protection against a wrongly wired
battery.
Two flashing LEDs complete the
Fig.1: the motor drive system for this robot is simple. Provided photodiode D14 picks up reflected light from LED7, Q2
drives the right motor. The same applies to photodiode D15 and LED8 which control Q4 and the left motor.
18 Silicon Chip
picture and they are connected directly across the +5.4V rail.
Construction
This is a real hands‑on project and
you will need to make a lot of the
parts yourself. For this reason, we
have included quite a few diagrams
and photographs showing how the
Line Dancer is put together.
Let’s begin with the PC board
assembly. The component overlay
for the PC board is shown in Fig.2.
Check the board carefully for broken
or shorted tracks and undrilled holes
before you start inserting components.
Mount the wire links, resistors and
diodes first, followed by the capacitors and transistors.
Next, mount the ICs, remembering
the CMOS items (IC1,IC3) are static
sensitive. Their positive and negative
pins should be soldered first, followed
by the others.
Watch the orientation of the scanner
LEDs. They are not all oriented the
same way. LEDs 7 & 8 and photo-diodes D14 & D15 are mounted on the
underside of the PC board with the
tip of each LED/photodiode pair being
32mm from the underside of the PC
board, as shown in cross‑sectional
diagram, Fig.3.
Now they are not likely to be supplied with sufficiently long
leads to achieve this so you will
need to extend them. You can
do this for each LED and photodiode by connecting each lead
via a 10Ω or similar low value
resistor and this can be seen
in the photos of the prototype.
LED9 and LED10 are used
to illuminate the top Perspex
sheet in the robot assembly and
should be installed later, along
with the ultrasonic receiver and
transmitter transducers.
100mm lengths of miniature
hookup should be soldered to
the PC board for the ultrasonic
transducers, LEDs, motors and
battery supply.
Look, mum, a
wheelie! Maybe the
Line Dancer hasn't
quite got enough
power to stand
on end – but if it
could, this is what
you would see.
What you don't see
in this pic are the
sleeves shielding
the two
photodiodes – these
have been removed
for clarity.
+5.4V at pin 16 of IC1, pin 7 of IC2,
pins 4 & 8 of IC3, pin 14 of IC4 and
at the emitters of Q2 and Q4.
If you have an oscilloscope or frequency meter, connect it to pin 3 of
IC3 and adjust trimpot VR1 to obtain
a frequency of 40kHz.
If these test instruments are not
available, the circuit is adjusted for
best operation by “feel”; ie, adjust
trimpot VR1 so that the LED scanner
stops when your hand is brought
within about 50 or 60mm from the
ultrasonic transducers. Trimpots VR2
& VR3 should be adjusted to have a
resistance of about 45kΩ.
Motor gearbox assembly
The two motor and gearbox assemblies can be purchased ready‑
assembled from any Jaycar Electronics store (Cat. YG‑2725). These are a
relatively cheap variety of gearbox
but any other hobby motor/gearbox
which runs on 3-4.5V will suffice.
An appropriate speed reduction ratio
should be selected.
The Jaycar gearboxes have long
Initial checks
With the board complete,
connect the ultrasonic transducers and angle them as
shown in the photos.
Connect a 6V battery pack
or DC supply and check the
voltages around the circuit.
You should be able to measure
Fig.2: the component overlay for the PC board. Note that LEDs7 & 8 and photodiodes
D14 & D15 are connected to the board via 10Ω resistors in each leg. (See text).
MAY 1999 19
These two photos, from front and back, show Line Dancer
with the battery pack and acrylic plate "1" removed (left)
and the acrylic plate "2" removed (above). These will assist
both PC board assembly and final construction.
shafts on both sides and these need to
be cut to the required length. This is
done by clamping the shafts in a vice.
For each gearbox, one side is cut to
within 2mm of the gearbox, the other
cut to protrude 15mm.
The two gearboxes must not be cut
identically but instead as a mirror
image of each other; ie, the lefthand
gearbox should have its 15mm shaft
on the lefthand side and the righthand
gearbox should have its 15mm shaft
on the righthand side.
The wheels need to be cannibalised
from a cheap toy such as a “World‑4‑
Kids” Cat. 373845 which has the same
wheel shaft diameter as the gearbox.
Removing the wheels takes considerable force and they can then be glued
to the gearbox shafts with Araldite.
To ensure that the shafts don’t slip
within the wheels, they should have
grooves cut in them. Ensure that both
wheels are equidistant from their
respective gearbox and leave them
aside to set.
You can’t!
Plainly, the only approach is to
build your own. In the prototype, this
was made from two sliding door roller
wheels, 20mm in diameter, available
at hardware stores.
Both are ball bearing type, one of
which comes complete with a thread-
ed shaft on one side with matching
nut. The other simply has a through
hole for a shaft.
A wheel bracket can be made using
sheet aluminium or a strip of brass
(see Fig.4). The bracket was then
attached to the first roller wheel and
secured with the nut. The second
roller wheel forms the actual front
wheel and was secured to the bracket
using a bolt, nut and some washers.
The bracket is fixed to the swivel
Front wheel castor
A castor has to be made to serve
as the robot’s front wheel. For those
who don’t know what a castor is, it
is a wheel which swivels on its base,
typically used under bed ensembles,
mobile cabinets and other furniture.
The only problem is finding one
small enough to suit the Line Dancer.
20 Silicon Chip
Fig.3 : this diagram shows how the Line Dancer is a stacked assembly of three
Acrylic or Perspex pieces which carry the motor/gearboxes, PC board, battery
pack and so on.
Here is the Line Dancer fully “opened up”, showing how the motors and
ultrasonic transducers are attached to plate “3”. The holes in the plate
are for the sensor photodiodes and LEDs to poke through. Note (above) the
small tube shields slipped over the photodiodes (removed in right photo).
bearing slightly off‑centre with a nut
and screw through the hole in the
bracket. The drawing of Fig.4 is only
meant as an example and you may
construct your castor in any manner
which is suitable.
Remember however, that if the
wheel is not completely free to swivel,
then operation may impaired.
The dimensions of the three plates
(pieces of Perspex or Acrylic) for the
Line Dancer assembly are shown in
Fig.5. They should be roughly cut
out with a bandsaw or coping saw.
The pieces can then be trimmed to
size with a bench disc sander. Holes
should be drilled where indicated.
Deviations in the locations of holes
will result in the parts not fitting
together during assembly. The two
elongated holes in Plate 1 are made
by drilling two adjacent holes, then
opening them out with a small file.
Six untapped metal spacers, three
15mm long and three 20mm, were cut
from hobby brass tubing using tube
cutters. If you can’t get this tubing,
you can always stack groups of 6mm
untapped spacers to get the desired
results, as these can be purchased
cheaply in quantities of 100. You
will need to use the spacers to stack
the three Perspex plates as shown in
Fig.3.
The gearbox/motor/wheel assemblies are glued to the largest of the
Perspex pieces (Plate 3) using contact
adhesive. The front wheel is similarly
attached, being extra careful not to get
glue into the rotating components.
The PC board is fixed to the secA piece of tubing 8mm long is fitted
ond Perspex sheet (Plate 2) using over each of the photodiodes, which
the 15mm spacers and 32mm screws are hanging down from the underside
and nuts. This is then attached to
of the PC board. The tubing helps to
the third Perspex sheet, threading limit the effect of extraneous light.
the photo-diodes and LEDs through The LEDs and photodiodes are then
the holes. Nuts on the underside are bent to the appropriate angle with
used to hold these pieces in place. respect to each other to optimise the
The nut which is to
go in between the two
motors will require a
steady hand and a pair
of tweezers.
The ultrasonic receiver and transmitter
are glued at the front of
Plate 3, on either side
of the LED scanner.
They are positioned
at an angle of approximately 80° to each other, as shown in Fig.6.
Glue LED19 & LED20
to Plate 1 in the elongated holes. The wires
from the PC board can
now be connected to
these, along with the
motors and ultrasonic
transducers.
A switch (S1) is
mounted on Plate 1
and power connections to the battery
holder are made via
this switch.
The battery holder
Fig.4: the front castor was made using small
is attached to Plate
wheels from a sliding door roller set, available
2 with double‑sided
from hardware stores.
tape.
MAY 1999 21
Fig.6: the ultrasonic transducers should be positioned at an
angle of 80° to ensure that the collision avoidance system
works.
reflection of light into the sensors. Remember the basic rule of
optics: Incident angle = Reflected angle.
To further shield the photodiodes from ambient light, you
need to fit a plastic skirt to the underside of the base plate
of Perspex. This can be fashioned from a couple of pieces of
80mm diameter PVC pipe and then glued to the Perspex piece.
Alternatively, you could use a 90mm PVC end cap, instead of
making the skirt and the bottom Perspex piece. Note that the
skirt should have about 5mm of clearance above the table top
or working surface.
Before operation, tidy up all your wiring. You will need to
mark out a large circular or roughly rectangular track using
plain black electrical insulating tape on a smooth, light surface,
preferably a white floor or large table.
The radius of curvature of the track should not be less than
30cm and rightangle turns are not negotiable.
Troubleshooting
Fig.5: use this diagram to cut and drill the three
Acrylic or Perspex pieces for the robot. In this
project, we have used the terms “Acrylic” and
“Perspex” as though they are interchangeable.
While different products, either can be used for
the Line Dancer (as could some other plastics).
22 Silicon Chip
All things being equal, the Line Dancer should function well.
However, under certain circumstances it may not behave as it
should. For example, if the Line Dancer is initially adjusted to
operate in a relatively poorly lit room and then operated in a
brightly lit room, it may well cut across the tracks and wander
off into oblivion. Trimpots VR2 or VR3 should then be adjusted
to compensate for the brighter lighting conditions.
If you attempt to use the Line Dancer in sunlight, it will
probably not work reliably. It’s really an indoor creature and
it misbehaves in intense lighting.
The use of modulated infrared LEDs and IR sensors, along the
lines of the Infrared Sentry project published in last month’s
Resistor Colour Codes
No. Value 4-Band Code (1%)
1 1.5MΩ brown green green brown
1 1MΩ brown black green brown
1 47kΩ yellow violet orange brown
1 33kΩ orange orange orange brown
6 10kΩ brown black orange brown
1 4.7kΩ yellow violet red brown
3 1kΩ brown black red brown
1 470Ω yellow violet brown brown
5 270Ω red violet brown brown
4 10Ω brown black black brown
Parts List
5-Band Code (1%)
brown green black yellow brown
brown black black yellow brown
yellow violet black red brown
orange orange black red brown
brown black black red brown
yellow violet black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
yellow violet black black brown
red violet black black brown
brown black black gold brown
REMOVE
THIS SECTOR OF PCB
1 Line Dancer PC board, code 11385991
1 SPDT miniature toggle switch
4 AA cells
1 4 AA‑cell holder
2 gearbox/motors, Jaycar YG‑2725 or equivalent
2 wheels from toy car to match gearboxes (World‑4‑Kids 373845)
1 miniature castor (see text and Fig.4)
3 20mm untapped spacers
3 15mm untapped spacers (see text)
6 3mm x 32mm screws
9 3mm nuts
1 piece light gauge aluminium or brass strip, 12mm x 50mm
1 clear Acrylic or Perspex sheet, 30 x 11cm
2 pieces plastic tubing, 10mm x 5mm ID
Semiconductors
1 4017 counter (IC1)
1 CA3130 op amp (IC2)
1 555 timer (IC3)
1 4093 quad 2‑input NAND Schmitt trigger (IC4)
3 BC548 NPN transistors (Q1,Q3,Q5)
2 BD140 PNP transistors (Q2,Q4)
10 1N4148, 1N914 diodes (D1‑8,D10,11)
3 1N4004 diodes (D9,D12,D13)
6 yellow high brightness LEDs (LED1‑6)
4 1000mCd red LEDs (LED7‑10)
2 green flashing LEDs (LED11,12)
2 IR photodiodes (D14,D15)(Jaycar ZD‑1950 or equiv)
1 ultrasonic transmitter/receiver pair
(Dick Smith Electronics L‑7055 or equivalent)
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 1.5MΩ
1 1MΩ
1 47kΩ
1 4.7kΩ
3 1kΩ
1 470Ω
1 20kΩ trimpot (VR1)
2 50kΩ trimpots (VR2,VR3)
1 33kΩ
5 270Ω
6 10kΩ
4 10Ω
Capacitors
1 100µF PC electrolytic
1 4.7µF tantalum electrolytic
1 0.47µF MKT polyester or monolithic
1 0.1µF MKT polyester or monolithic
1 .001µF ceramic
Miscellaneous
Araldite adhesive, tinned copper wire, hookup wire, solder etc.
Fig.7: actual size artwork for the PC board.
issue, would have alleviated this problem but it would
have made this circuit a lot more complicated.
If the Line Dancer cuts across the track only at certain
places, check the amount of light from other sources
falling on those areas. Also check that the track curvature is not too sharp and check that both VR2 and
VR3 are appropriately set. The use of one and a half
tape track widths in some circumstances may help
with “track cutting”.
Check that the LEDs and photodiodes are within
7mm of the surface and that they are angled correctly.
This is crucial to the operation and minor deviations
will result in failure to follow the track.
Track cutting can further be limited by the use of
an additional diode in series with the negative lead to
the motors, ie; in series with diodes D12 & D13. This
reduces the motor voltage and speed, and the reduced
momentum means that there is less likelihood of the
Line Dancer running away from the black track.
If you have trouble finding a light coloured surface
on which to operate the Line Dancer, the use of white
insulating tape on either side of the black track will
SC
make it work.
MAY 1999 23
X‑Y TABLE
WITH
STEPPER
MOTOR
CONTROL
From the number of enquiries we
receive it is obvious that there is a
great amount of interest in machine
control. With this in mind, we have
produced a practical demonstration
X‑Y table project using stepper motor control. It could be expanded to
control a variety of processes and
machines.
First of all, though, perhaps we
should explain what an X-Y table is
because many readers may not have
come across such a device before.
Casting your mind back to school
days, you will recall that a graph has
two axes, the “X” axis, which is the
horizontal direction, and the “Y”
axis – not surprisingly, the vertical
direction.
Within the confines of the graph,
any point can be located from the
origin by giving its coordinates in
terms of plus or minus X units, and
plus or minus Y units. The origin, or
reference point, is normally called
(0,0), meaning X=0 and Y=0.
The same logic – no pun intended
(or was it?) – can be applied to locate
positions away from an origin for just
about anything, as long as you know
the units being used. Map co-ordinates are just one example.
Suppose we want to locate a position on a solid (flat) object? Exactly
the same system applies. And this is
the basis for the X-Y table.
We lock the object – a piece of paper for drawing on, a PC board to be
drilled, a piece of metal to be engraved
– in position, and by either moving the
object with respect to a fixed point, or
moving something else with respect to
the fixed object, we can move a pen, a
drill, an engraving head, you name it,
to an exact spot by giving it the X-Y
coordinates.
In this case, we cheat a little and
place our origin (0,0) in the bottom
Have you been
wondering how
to use the stepper
motor driver cards
we featured in the
latter stages of 1997?
We had this project
in mind then and
though it has taken
a while, it has finally
come to fruition.
This series of articles
will show you how to
assemble the hardware and software
to drive an X‑Y table.
PART 1:
INTRODUCTION
left hand corner, so all points on the
object are positive numbers (it just
makes life easier to do it that way).
X-Y tables are commonly used in
a huge variety of applications from
industry through to medicine and
virtually everything in between.
Our X-Y table is reasonably small
by industry standards but it will be
capable of doing quite large and sophisticated jobs.
In the months to come, it will be
extended so that it can be used to plot
and drill PC boards which have been
laid out using Protel. For the moment
though, let us now describe the basic
X‑Y table with stepper motor drive.
An IBM-style computer is used as
the interface between the operator
and the table. It doesn’t have to be
the latest whizz‑bang Pentium. A 486
or even a 386 will work quite well as
long as it has a VGA graphics card
fitted. While the slower processors
Mechanical Design & Construction by Ken Ferguson
Electronics by Rick Walters
24 Silicon Chip
To be fully described next month,
here is the complete X-Y table with
a blank piece of PC board mounted
in its clamps. Construction should
be well within the capabilities of
most hobbyists with basic
metalworking and welding skills.
will take a little longer to run a task,
the stepping speed of the motors will
be the limiting factor.
Most programs, although written
in GW Basic, are supplied as an EXE
as well as a BAS file. The BAS file
will allow you to readily make any
changes to the software that you may
deem necessary.
The computer controls the dual
stepper motor driver card, featured in
the September 1997 issue of SILICON
CHIP. The +5V and +12V supplies for
this card can be picked up from an
internal disc drive power connector
or from an external power supply.
The stepper motors we have used
are 12V 1.8° types which with the
hardware used, make four steps for
a table movement of one thousandth
of an inch (.001"). In some respects
this is too fine, as it takes a while
to traverse from zero to maximum
but with the limited availability of
threaded rods, this proved to be the
optimum choice.
Although Australia is a metric
country, Imperial measurements were
chosen as most PC board components
are still laid out on an Imperial grid
(ie, 100ths and 10ths of an inch).
The outline of the table measures
750mm x 700mm and the X and Y
axes can each traverse 300mm.
Software details
We shall describe the software first
before we go onto the mechanical
side, as this will be your interface
while operating the table.
The control screen is shown in
Fig.1. This is the only screen for XYTABLE.BAS or XYTABLE.EXE and
shows the current X and Y position
of the table, along with a menu across
the bottom of the screen.
“Arrow keys X‑Y direction” indicates that the four arrow keys on the
keyboard are used to move the table
in the X and Y directions. The right
arrow and up arrow keys increase the
X and Y position, while the left arrow
and down arrow keys reduce it.
The next menu entry is “I or M ‑
units”. These keys select either an Imperial or Metric screen display of the
current X and Y position. The metric
display (Fig.2) is just a mathematical
conversion of the inch value. If the
Metric display is selected, then the X
and/or Y co‑ordinate is changed and
the table will only move to the closest
converted Imperial measurement.
If, for example, we commanded the
table to move to 25mm it would move
to 25.018mm or .985 inches. The next
lower imperial step is .984 inches and
this converts to 24.994mm which is
less than the 25 called up.
“X‑Y to set” indicates that by
pressing, for example, the X key on
the keyboard, you will be asked for
the new X position. This message
is shown in Fig.3. The value can be
entered as a number with a decimal
point (ie, 3.2 or 3.186) or without the
decimal point (ie, 3200 or 3186). On
the metric display, entering 43 will
be interpreted as 43mm.
You are then asked if you wish to
alter the Y position. You may enter a
value or by pressing the ENTER key,
you can bypass this entry. Similarly,
pressing the Y key follows the same
MAY 1999 25
sequence in the reverse order. If values larger than the
preset maximum values are entered, the table will move
to the maximum and then stop.
The menu shows another keyboard function key
as “S‑Stepinc”. Pressing this key allows you to select
Manual or Automatic control of the stepping increment
in units, tens or hundreds of thou (U, T or H). After a
value is selected, the arrow keys will only step in that
increment. Fig.4 shows the screen with the three feed
increments after M (for manual) has been pressed.
If the “X‑Y to set” mode is used, the program will
switch to automatic stepping and leave the feed set to
the last automatic stepping increment. The automatic
mode always steps in the largest possible increment
(hundreds), stepping down to tens and units (if necessary) as it homes to the selected coordinate.
Stepping rate
All the functional keys described so far are shown
in the menu bar at the bottom of the screen. There is
one additional key which is not identified on the menu
and this is the R key. It is used initially to optimise the
stepping Rate.
When the R key is pressed, the current stepping delay
is shown with an invitation to change it; a bigger delay
will slow the rate and vice versa. This value can be tested
while running the program by selecting X or Y values
an inch larger or smaller than the current position then
reducing the value until the motors begin to mis‑step,
then increasing it until they run smoothly again.
The motors can be stopped at any time by hitting the
spacebar (or any key). They will always make one additional step before stopping, as the instruction to look for
a keypress is at the beginning of the stepping subroutine.
There are two other keys which you may find useful.
The HOME key will rapidly move the table to X=0, Y=0
when it is pressed and the END key will move the table
to the maximum limits.
These limits, along with a few other parameters which
will be explained later, are initially written to a disc file
(XYPLOT.FIL) using a separate program (XYSETUP.BAS
or XYSETUP.EXE).
We will not go into the details of the stepper card in
this article. If you need more information, refer to the
September 1997 issue. The card is allocated an address
between 1 and 8 via a jumper on it and this allows the
computer to control several cards connected in parallel
to the one printer port.
The selected address of this card is also written to the
disc file. This file allows you to run XYTABLE.EXE but
alter the values it uses, as the compiled EXE program
runs a great deal faster than the interpreted Basic.
The other parameters saved to the file are the X and
Y positions each time the program is exited, the motor
stepping rate, the selected measurement units and the
printer port used to drive the card.
Figs. 1-4 (left): these X-Y table control screens are fully
described in the text. The difference between the first and
second screens is that the first is imperial and the second
metric – even though Australia uses the metric system,
most engineering specifications are given in imperial
units.
26 Silicon Chip
When using this interface card, it is
important that the program is loaded
and run before the 12V is applied to
the cards. When power is applied to
the card, the outputs of IC2 may be
high or low. This is a random function
but if the Q0 and Q1 outputs were
both high, Q1 and Q4 as well as Q2
and Q3 would be turned on, causing
at least one transistor to self‑destruct.
The others could also be seriously
damaged.
Relay modification
To overcome this problem, we have
produced an add‑on circuit with some
extra logic and a relay to switch the
+12V supply to the output transistors
only after the software has set all IC2's
outputs low.
The circuit for this modification is
shown in Fig.5. At switch‑on, both
flipflops are reset by the 1MΩ resistor
and the 0.1µF capacitor connected to
pins 14 and 15, which means that the
Q outputs are low. Thus D1 and D2
will hold the base of Q1 low and the
transistor will be turned off.
When the software is run, it first
sets all the IC2 outputs low then takes
IC1‑Y6 low and high then IC1‑Y7 low
and high. These outputs are normally
high but again, at power‑up any one
output could be low. This is why we
toggle two outputs (to be sure, to be
sure). As each flipflop is clocked the Q
output will go high. The 1kΩ resistor
will now pull the base of Q1 high,
which will energise RLY1 which feeds
the 12V supply to the output drivers.
If you already have this card you
could build the circuit up on a piece
of perf board and mount it on the PC
board in the vacant area adjacent to
IC2.
Maximum stepping rate
The maximum motor stepping rate
will vary, depending on several factors: the applied motor voltage, the
motors themselves and the computer’s clock speed. We need to step the
motors as fast as possible but there
is a problem.
If the maximum stepping speed was
set to suit a 486, then if the program
was run on a Pentium, it would step
the motors so quickly that they would
not be able to respond and would just
sit there chattering.
We found values around 190
worked well with a 386 using GW‑Ba-
sic and 1950 when using the EXE file.
Use these values as the starting point
for faster computers. Don’t contemplate running the BASIC program for
anything but testing your software
modifications as it is FAR TOO SLOW
to be useful.
While XYTABLE is useful for manoeuvring the table and getting the
feel for the system, it is not much use
if you wish to move it through a sequence of positions over and over. To
this end, we have produced another
program called XYREAD.BAS. This
is capable of reading a sequence of
positions which you have tabulated
and saved as a file. It has not been
converted to an EXE file as you will
obviously wish to modify it to add
your particular requirements to it.
We have made the table move to the
X‑Y position it reads from the file then
the computer will beep, waiting for a
keypress. It will then move to the next
set of co‑ordinates it reads and beep.
The opening screen for this program
is similar to that of Fig.1 except that
instead of a menu across the bottom
of the screen, you will be asked for
the name of your file.
To assist you we have included a
Here is a close-up of one of the two stepper motors and drive mechanisms for
the X-Y table. The stepper motors themselves are commonly available 12V,
1.8° types which with the hardware used, make four steps for a table
movement of one thousandth of an inch. That’s pretty good accuracy by
anyone’s standards!
MAY 1999 27
file named XYTEST.MOV which has
a sequence of X‑Y movements.
The file structure is based on that
used by NC drills but without tooling
information. It consists of an X location followed by a Y location. If either
location stays the same on the next
step only the new value is printed.
A brief extract of a typical file
would look like this:
X04125Y008
X045
X00825Y0065
X00975
Y039
As you can see, it consists of one
X‑Y instruction per line. All dimensions are based on 99.999" being the
maximum allowable value, although
the decimal point is omitted.
Thus X04125Y008 defines X at
4.125" and Y at 0.8". If the X value
was to remain the same the next entry
(on the next line) could be Y00775.
Trailing zeros are omitted.
Once the end of the file is reached
the table is homed to 0,0. This is just
a precaution in case XYPLOT.FIL is
corrupted, as this file stores the last X
and Y co‑ordinates before the program
is exited.
A file like this can easily be created
with a text editor using non‑document
or ASCII mode to save it. We have
used the MOV suffix for our file but
you may choose whatever you find
logical. However, you should always
add a suffix, as it helps to identify or
Fig 5: this add-on circuit for the stepper motor controller will prevent
damage if two outputs are high at the same time. It can be built on a
scrap of perforated board or even blank PC board.
group files (DIR *.MOV), especially
if you don’t create a special subdirectory.
The seven files, XYREAD.BAS, XYTEST.MOV, XYTABLE.BAS, XYTABLE.EXE, XYSETUP.BAS, XYSETUP.
EXE and XYPLOT.FIL are available
free from our web site, or on floppy
disc (price is $7.00 including p&p
from SILICON CHIP).
If you don’t have a subdirectory
called BAS on your hard disc, create
one (from c:\ type MD BAS then press
Enter). Copy the seven files to this
directory, and either add C:\BAS; in
your path statement or change to the
BAS directory (CD \BAS) to run the
programs.
Naturally, if you edit the BAS programs you can change the file location
in line 6030 to suit yourself.
Next month, we will give details
of construction for the X‑Y table. See
SC
you then.
This photo shows three
projects: (right) the power supply for
stepper motor cards
(December 1997), and
left, the controller for
two stepper motors
(September 1997)
mounted in a case,
together with the
single stepper controller
(August 1997) which
will give X, Y and Z
control. Whoops! Have
we let the cat out of the
bag? OK, an X-Y-Z table
is planned for a future
issue!
28 Silicon Chip
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
Life’s tough without TimTams
I must be getting old because a couple of jobs
really had me on the go this month.
Fortunately, persistence won the day and
I had a really good win over a recalcitrant
VCR. If only I’d stocked up on TimTams . . .
Panasonic are up to sneaky things –
they seem to think that people cannot
remember anything that’s older than
10 years and so now they are recycling
their television model numbers (of
course, in those days they were called
National so it doesn’t really matter).
This is extremely confusing for
old codgers like myself who can still
actually remember the original model.
In this particular case, it was a model
TC1401. The original cost over $550
and was an extremely heavy, 14-inch,
portable TV set with a white cabinet
and rotary tuning (VHF only). By
contrast, the beast on my bench, also
a model TC1401, was a dual-speaker
34cm set with remote control and
a black cabinet. It weighs just 12kg
and is so light that the owner has to
be careful they don’t lose their grip if
they are carrying it in a heavy wind!
The complaint with this one was
“no memory” – I’m glad I am not the
only thing that suffers from this fault
from time to time!
When the set was switched on,
the only channel available was 1
and on opening the “Preset” menu
all the channels were designated as
“skipped”. They could be retuned in
any configuration you wanted, with
the correct TV channel numbers, but
when the Preset button was pushed
again all the information was lost.
So the fault description at least
was accurate and seeing as there is
an IC (IC1104, MN12C25D) marked
“MEM
ORY”, the obvious thing to
do was to replace it. I ordered in the
chip, fitted it and switched on. Initially, this seemed to have fixed the
problem because the set worked but
then, after about five minutes or so, it
failed again. Curses – it wasn’t going
to be that easy.
Next, I checked all the voltage rails,
especially the 5V and 30V rails, but
they were all OK. I even checked them
for ripple using an oscilloscope but
there was none. I also checked all
the other voltage rails before going
on to measure the voltages on all the
pins of IC1104 and IC1102. There was
nothing was untoward – not even a
dry joint.
By now thoroughly frustrated, I
reordered another MN12C25D IC plus
an MN151142TEA (IC1102), if only
to make sure that it really wasn’t one
of these chips. When they arrived, I
couldn’t wait to fit them one at a time.
IC1102 was a bit tricky as it is a 42-pin
high-density chip but eventually they
were fitted properly and this time the
symptoms were . . . exactly the same
as before! This was definitely not the
result I was looking for!
What next?
By now, I was totally perplexed
by all this and was contem
plating
abandoning the repair. Maybe a cup
of coffee would get the ol’ brain cells
working again? Well, maybe it did
Sets Covered This Month
•
•
•
•
•
Panasonic TC1401 TV set
Teac CTM-143 TV set
NEC FS-6325 TV set
AWA CT-1447AM TV set
Mitsubishi HS-338A VCR
help because I was closely examining the main board (rather hatefully)
when I noticed that the small glass
diodes fitted to it were completely different to the diodes fitted in modern
TVs (like 1N4148). And as I quickly
discovered from the circuit, that was
because they were completely different. Surprisingly, they were germanium OA90s, a diode rarely seen these
days except in the odd discriminator.
Yet here was a fairly modern set using lots of them and – hey-ho – they
were predominantly in and around
the memory circuit I was working on.
Well, this was all academic and of
purely historical interest except, of
course, one of the main reasons for the
shift from germanium to silicon was
reliability. Silicon diodes are much
more reliable than their germanium
counterparts and have better (read
“less”) leakage. The only drawback
with silicon is that it requires 0.6V to
bias the junction, as opposed to 0.2V
for germanium diodes.
Well, I didn’t have any better ideas,
so I began testing each diode in circuit
on the x10 ohm range of my multimeter. The reverse leakage varied a lot
between them but at least there was
a difference between the forward and
reverse directions until I got to D1129.
This diode connects pin 5 of IC1104 to
pin 20 of IC1102, the microprocessor.
D1129 measured nearly open circuit
in both directions and it just had to
be the culprit.
I rummaged around an old miscellaneous diode box and found an
OA90 and fitted it. And that solved
the problem – everything was now
properly stored and remained that
way even after the set was switched
off. Without the benefit of a block
diagram, I cannot tell the precise
function of D1129 except to say it
connects C2 with P32-C2 (I’m sure
you are all the wiser for that bit of
priceless information).
I have to admit this repair was
pretty fluky and I’m now off to buy
MAY 1999 29
a lottery ticket. Maybe I’ll crack the
jackpot?
Unhappy customer
Mr Burton wasn’t too happy about
his Teac CTM-143 TV set. It still had
the same fault as when I’d fixed it
last time, or so he claimed. Well, he
may have genuinely believed this but
it was 1996 when I fixed it last and I
don’t give 3-year warranties. And as
it turned out, it wasn’t the same fault
as last time.
On this occasion, the set was intermittently not coming on and it appeared again to be a problem with the
line drive stage in the 34cm Goldstar
PC04A chassis. The previous fault
allowed the set to start but it would
then “go off” after a short period of
time. This was caused by D402 in
the 27V rail being open circuit. This
allowed the driver stage power to start
via D401 (18V) but because D402 was
open circuit, the stage would then
shut down.
This time, the voltage on the collector of Q401 (KTC2230A) was 20V.
Sometimes there was a kind of square
wave on this collector, while at other
30 Silicon Chip
times the waveform collapsed into a
reduced waveform with large negative
spikes, which in turn produced a
waveform on the secondary of T401.
This was insufficient to turn on Q402
(KDS1555), the line output transistor.
This was baffling because the square
waveform on the base of Q401 seemed
adequate to turn the stage on and, of
course, it would have to be intermittent, just to complicate matters.
To eliminate any traces of the
problem I had addressed last time, I
connected an external variable power
supply to the junction of C404 and
T401 and pumped in 18-28V. It made
no dif
ference, thus eliminating the
power supplies. The square waveform WF2 was correct at all times. I
replaced Q401 and Q402 and the fault
went away for one week but it was
back again just after I had confidently
given Mr Burton a quote for the fault.
Next, I checked all the components
in the collector circuit of Q401 and in
the base circuit of Q402, to no avail.
So what was I overlooking? Basically
Q401 is biased and switched on by
the square wave arriving via C401
(which had also tested OK) but the
waveform became distorted on its
collector. Why? It’s always the way;
the simpler the circuit, the harder it
is to find what’s wrong.
The vital clue came when I monitored the waveforms with an oscilloscope. This showed that the
amplitude of the waveform was
much greater before R402 than after
it. Certainly, the difference was much
greater than I expected, considering
that R402 is nominally only 560Ω.
When I removed R402 from the
board and measured it, I found that it’s
value was actually 750Ω, an increase
of almost 50%. Replacing this resistor
increased the waveform amplitude
at the base of Q401 and the set now
remained on. I soak tested it for a
week and crossed my fingers when
Mr Burton collected it.
No TimTams
It was a hot day and I was praying
that Mrs Norris’ NEC FS-6325 TV set
was going to be straightforward. I was
running late because the previous job
had taken far too long, due mainly to
the client’s addiction to talking – she
could talk the hind leg off a donkey!
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4 2. 34
Printer ribbon to suit $5, extra. Delivery to
most Aust. cities $12, . box approx. 0.25
CM - 15Kg
MORE INFO, LINKS AND PHOTOS IN
BARGAIN CORNER ON OUR WEB SITE
NEW MOSFET VERSION OF OUR 1/2/3
AXIS CNC(computer numerical control)
SYSTEM. This system includes a new
stepper motor driver kit (one kit required for
each axis) designed to be used with
software freely available on the Internet for
use with home or professionally built a
milling machine, lathe, engraver or cutter
etc. with home & limit switches & a high
degree of accuracy (can be better than
.001”. We supply the kit inc. Pcb all
onboard parts etc. plus Internet resources
for shareware software & building or
buying mechanical components. Around
$40 per axis. Call for details.
BUILD YOUR OWN COMPUTER
CONTROLLED 2/3 AXIS CNC MILLING
MACHINE
/ ENGRAVER OR PEN
PLOTTER: Using the parts of the above
printer, with the above stepper drivers and
software and with the addition of about $10
worth of materials from your local
hardware store you can build the machine
of your choice. Plans/notes on floppy for
an A3 plotter and a 2/3 axis mill:$9.
PLANS/NOTES
ON FLOPPY $9
$25
$18
$14
OATLEY ELECTRONICS
BULK BUYS
BRAND NEW GERMAN MADE
DUAL PRINTER / SCANNER
MECHANISM
$59
**LOOK** LOOK** LOOK**
NEW STEPPER MOTORS
30 oz./in. torque, 2.5 deg. 144 step, low
voltage, compact 57 x 38mm: $14
COMPUTER CONTROLLED STEPPER
MOTOR DRIVER KIT
can drive larger motors,
Has optoIsolation. Inc.
Software & notes: $40 Or
$50 with two Used 23
frame 200 step 1.8 Deg. motors!!
CHECK OUR WEB SITE FOR DRIVERS
KIT MADNESS SPECIALS
20A DC MOTOR SPEED
CONTROL: $15.FM TRANSMITTER
MKII: $15.1 CHANNEL UHF REMOTE
CONTROL KIT: $35.2 CHANNEL UHF
R E M O T E C O N T R O L K I T: $ 4 5 . .
8CHANNEL IR REMOTE CONTROL KIT:
$30...LOGIC PROBE:$8...INFRA RED
TESTER: with case $7STROBE KIT:
$6...UV MONEY TESTER: $6
UNIDIRECTIONAL ELECTRET MICROPHONE: With tie-clip, plug and lead.
Aplication notes supplied $4
SC-MAY-99
Serviceman’s Log – continued
Anyway, if this next job was easy, I
could still make it back to the workshop in time for a leisurely cup of
coffee and a couple of “TimTams”
before knocking off for the day.
When I arrived, I quickly unscrewed the back and it was easy to
see why the set was dead – F601, a 2A
mains fuse, was as black as the ace of
spades. I unplugged the degaussing
coils and measured the resistance
across the bridge rectifier – it was
still nearly a complete short circuit.
By following the path from the bridge
rectifier, I soon established that IC601
(STR
41090) was short circuit and
hopefully the cause was due to the
obvious dry joints on C609, the main
tuning capacitor.
As luck would have it, I had a new
STR41090 in the van. I quickly ran
out, found it, shot back into the house
and replaced it before you could say
“Micky Finn”. I then switched the
set on and prayed hard but nothing
happened. It looked as though I was
snookered.
Suitably chastened, I turned the set
off and measured the main HT voltage
across C609. It was still 340V
which told me that the circuit
was stable DC wise but wasn’t
starting up. I desperately
looked around and saw a
1MΩ resistor (R607). Hoping
that this was the critical startup bias resistor, I replaced
it and switched on again.
Much to my frustration, there
was still no response – my
TimTams were melting away
as in a mirage.
That was when I spotted
that R610 had a little chip
missing from its body. There
was enough of it left to
determine that it was once
a 1Ω resistor. I measured
Q601 (sandwiched between
R610 and R607) to find that
it was short circuit as well.
I tore back out to the van,
rummaged through the mess
in the back, found the parts I
needed (miracles do happen)
and rushed back inside and
fitted them.
This time, the set fired up
and the picture and sound
32 Silicon Chip
were good. Thank you God, thank you.
I quickly scribbled out the bill, put
the back on the set, hopped in the van
and shot back to the workshop. I went
straight for the percolator the minute
I got back. Great; there was still some
coffee left but what – NO MORE TIM
TAMS. Life lost all its meaning!
Predictable trouble
Mike Tester’s (the name is changed
to protect the guilty) AWA CT-1447AM
was always going to be trouble. You
see, Mike always fancied himself as
a technician and he also lived near
the sea. This combination meant his
set was always breaking down and
he was the kind of guy who liked to
have a go. Well, this time there was no
picture but the sound was good and
there was a raster with the on-screen
display working OK.
Anyway, it looked as though he had
lost only the video between the IF
detector and chrominance/luminance
decoder IC. As he is a good friend of
mine – despite his foibles – I tried to
help him over the phone but I really
didn’t have a clue as to the exact cause
of the problem. Initially, I told him to
check all the voltage rails, especially
those feeding the signal circuits. This
he dutifully did but everything measured fine, so I told him that the only
course of action was to feed in a signal
from a colour bar generator and trace
it through with an oscilloscope. After
a bit of coercion, he finally agreed and
dropped the set off at my workshop.
When I removed the back, I could
see how rusty the whole set was from
the salt air. I started by confirming
everything he did by checking all the
voltage rails. These all proved OK,
so I hooked up the oscilloscope and
followed the video from the video
detector (pin 10 of IC101, MS51496P)
through to Q1A0 TP12 (waveform 1),
thence to LC201 DL/BPF and finally
to pin 18 of IC201 (M51412SP). After
that the scent became very cold.
I then spent an inordinate amount
of time examining the contrast control
circuits but got nowhere. By now I
was beginning to think that the fault
was somewhere in the beam limiting
circuit. I started at pin 8 of the flyback
transformer and traced the circuit
until I got to the two beam limiting
test points designated PT1 and PT2.
It was then that I noticed that R555
and R556 were badly corroded. I de
soldered them and measured
them to find that they were
both nearly open circuit.
Replacing them fixed the
problem completely but I had
to warn Mike to keep the set
dry, otherwise it wouldn’t
last very long. Unfortunately,
he didn’t listen too well and
within another three months
the set was worse than before
and he was forced to bin it.
A Heath Robinson job
Mrs Daniels, a widower
living in a housing commission flat, was a very keen soap
watcher and loved to record
her serials every day on her
beloved Mitsubishi HS-338A
video. She first brought it
in complaining of poor fast
forward and rewind, which
just turned out to be belts and
tyres, but a month later it was
back. This time, the complaint
was “snowy pictures”.
At the time, I felt sure it
was just dirty heads but after
cleaning them vigorously I
came to the conclusion that the heads
were worn out, especially as (with the
same tapes, at least) I was getting almost clear pictures with Pause/Freeze
Frame/Still. I removed the heads and
checked them on my tester to find
that they were indeed low – enough,
I thought, to be causing the problem.
When faced with the news, Mrs Daniels was very stoic, accepting that as it
was in use every day, the heads were
bound to wear out eventually. And
although she could hardly afford new
heads, she would find a way to come
up with the money as it really was her
main source of entertainment.
I ordered in the new heads, fitted
them and confidently switched the
machine on. To my horror, I found
that the problem was just as bad as
before, although the picture was still
OK when paused. It was obvious that
I had misdiagnosed the fault.
I got the CRO out and examined the
FM envelope at TP-2A to find half of
it missing. It was unlikely to be the
new heads but it could be the head
amplifier IC, the switching pulse or
worse still, the toroidal transformer
inside the drum itself.
Using the second channel of the
CRO, I quickly established that the
switching pulse (FF or flipflop on pin
2 of IC201 M51473P) was exactly in
phase with the FM envelope switching. From there, it didn’t take long to
find that the toroidal transformer primary measured 100kΩ between pins 1
and 2 of plug SB. I removed the entire
drum assembly, then removed the
drum motor and upper transformer to
reveal the lower primary coils glued to
the bottom with – yes, you’ve guessed
it – the notorious brown glue.
There was nothing that could be
done to fix it as the coils were only
accessible on the underside and the
transformer was glued too tightly to
the base. Unfortunately, the trade cost
of a complete drum assembly was a
prohibitive $416.18 (if indeed it was
available), so I tried to obtain a junked
machine from one of my colleagues
in the trade.
Two heads or three
When I enquired, one young technician asked me whether it was the
3-head version (which it is) or the
earlier 2-head HS337A. At first, I
didn’t quite realise the significance of
his question but he went on to suggest
that I substitute the pause head and
Fig.1: this diagram shows how the connections to the transformer windings
inside the drum were modified. Fig.1(a) is the original circuit, while Fig.1(b)
is the modified circuit. Fig.1(b) also shows how the leads to the heads were
modified on the top of the drum.
Fig.2: here’s how the connections to the
head terminals on the top of the drum
were modified. The pins were desoldered from the PC board at all points
marked A and B and the two pins at
A then connected to pins C using short
lengths of insulated wire.
This photograph shows the modified
drum assembly. Amazingly, it worked
and produced quite a good picture.
its winding for the open circuit winding. At first I thought that this was an
absurd idea, knowing the tolerances
these heads are made to, but having
had no success in obtaining a second
hand drum assembly, I decided to
at least give it a try.
First, I completely reassembled
the drum, refitting the old heads in
the process. I then fitted two jumpers across the toroidal transformer
primary windings, connecting
the pause head on winding (L1)
in parallel with the open circuit
winding (R). There was an added
complication in that the open circuit winding (R) shared the centre
tap with the good winding (L).
I now had to guess which head
was which on the upper drum, as
they are not marked anywhere.
The pause head is L1 and I reasoned that this would be mounted
close to play head L, which would
be diagonally opposite head R. I
then unsoldered head R, fitted two
links to the pause head winding
(L1) and tried it out. It made no
difference, which meant that I
probably had the L and R heads
mixed up.
Next, I assumed that the heads were
arranged as shown in Fig.2, with the R
head adjacent to the pause head (L1).
I then rearranged the leads as shown
so that the active heads were L and
R but I still didn’t really expect it to
work. However, I was thrilled to see
that it actually did work and what’s
more, the pictures were pretty good.
Even more surprisingly, the pause
mode wasn’t bad either.
I then made a recording and played
it back and the picture was still quite
acceptable. Frankly, I was amazed that
this had worked at all and I am full
of praise for my friend. Obviously, it
isn’t perfect but Mrs Daniels thought
it was acceptable under the circumstances, especially as I didn’t charge
her for the new heads and put them
SC
back into stock.
MAY 1999 33
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au
3
ELECTRIC
FENCE
TESTERS
By
JOHN CLARKE
Do you need to test your electric fence to see if it is working? You
could try the wet grass trick but then again you might get a shock.
Why not build one of these three electric fence testers instead?
MINI
MIDI
MAXI
MAY 1999 37
I
t’s all very well having a fancy
electric fence installed to keep
animals corralled but how do
you know if it’s working properly?
By the time you discover that the
fence has a fault, you could be faced
with a real roundup job.
Of course, electric fences are
not only used to keep animals in a
paddock but are often also used to
keep animals away from a conventional fenceline. This particularly
applies to horses. If the fence uses
a large wire mesh, it’s all too easy
for a horse to become entangled in
the wire, panic and cause itself a
serious injury.
In fact, unless a trapped horse is
released fairly quickly, it can die.
One common way of testing an
electric fence is to use the wet grass
method. The technique is simple:
all you have to do is take hold of a
short length of wet grass and touch
it against the fence.
Because the wet grass is somewhat conductive, you’ll get a bit of
a belt if the fence is working but the
shock won’t be anywhere near as
severe as if you touched the fence
with your bare hands.
The drawback with this method is
that it’s a bit hit and miss. Because
you’re (hopefully) only getting a “bit
of a tingle” through the wet grass,
you can’t tell how much “bite” the
fence really has. That’s why some
hardy souls choose the direct touch
method but it’s not one that we recommend. If the fence is functioning
properly, it will bite like a Northern
Territory crocodile.
A far better way is to use one
of the three electric fence testers
described here. They will quickly
indicate whether or not the fence
is working and also indicate its
effectiveness.
For example, although the fence
controller itself might be working
correctly, there may be problems
with the installation that make the
fence ineffective.
Common faults include poor conduction of the earth stakes, shorts
between the high tension (HT) wires
and ground, and breaks in the line.
Shorts can be caused by long, wet
grass brushing against the HT line
and/or faulty insulators.
Sometimes, the further away
you get from the controller, the
less effective the fence becomes.
This commonly occurs if wet grass
is loading down the controller’s
output. It’s possible too for one section of the fence to go completely
“dead”, due to a break in the line.
For this reason, it’s a good idea to
check all sections of the fence on a
regular basis.
Unfortunately, you can’t use
a standard multimeter to test an
electric fence. This is because the
peak voltage on the fence can be
as much as 10kV, with each pulse
only lasting for 1ms or less. What’s
more, the pulses only occur once
every second or longer.
So while there may be a significant amount of energy in each pulse,
the multimeter does not integrate
this into any meaningful reading.
This is particularly true for digital
multimeters which have a one or
2-second response time.
These three fence testers can be
used as more reliable aids for fence
maintenance and, best of all, they
do not induce an electric shock
into the operator. Each contains a
“light” which flashes to indicate
fence pulse operation.
Which one you use depends on
what you want to do.
We’ve called our three Electric
Fence testers the “Mini”, the “Midi”
and the “Maxi”.
The first unit flashes a neon lamp
each time it detects a pulse on the
fence, while the second unit can
measure the fence peak voltage
(up to 10.8kV). The third unit is
designed for permanent installation
on the fence and flashes periodically if the fence is operating correctly.
All three units are powered directly by the electric fence being
tested. That way, there are no batteries to replace or leak if the unit
has been left unused for some time.
OK, let’s take a look at each of
our fence testers in turn and find
out how they work.
WHY AN ELECTRIC FENCE TESTER?
This project grew out of necessity:
we needed a means of testing the
output of the SILICON CHIP Electric
Fence Controller, featured in
last month's (April ’99) issue.
We called for volunteers
around the office to act as
a tester using the old fingeron-the-fence-and-hope-itdoesn’t-hurt-too-much routine.
But there were no takers!
(Even Ross Tester refused to
live up to his name . . .)
So we looked at ways of
testing the electric fence with38 Silicon Chip
out getting a belt and found that there
were several ways to do it – hence
the three projects featured here.
Incidentally, if all this talk about
electric fences and controllers is
foreign to you, it’s probably because
you missed out on last
month’s issue of SILICON
CHIP.
The high power electric
fence controller shown here
was described in detail in
that issue. It’s easy to build,
costs a fraction of commercial controllers . . . and back
issues of the magazine are
still available for $7.00 including P&P – a bargain in
anyone’s language.
“Mini” Electric Fence Tester
Fig.1 shows the circuit of the
Mini Electric Fence Tester. It is a
low-cost unit that’s easily carried
in a shirt pocket and can be quickly
used to indicate whether or not a
fence is working.
This is the simplest of the three
units and uses just a neon indicator
and three 330kΩ resistors. These
parts are all mounted on a small
PC board and there are two contacts, one at each end. In use, one
contact (the finger pad) is held in
the fingers and the other is touched
onto the electric fence wire. If the
fence is operating correctly, the
neon indicator will briefly flash
each time the HT wire is pulsed.
The total resistance in series
with the neon indicator (3 x
330kΩ) limits the current flowing
from the fence and through your
body to ground. In practice, this
current is so low that the pulse
will not be felt. Note that the light
output from the neon indicator is
quite low and you may need to
shield it from sunlight so that it
can be properly observed.
By the way, this circuit is
somewhat similar to the neon test
screwdrivers that are sometimes
used to test for mains voltages
around power points and light
switches. Do not, under any circumstances, use the Mini Electric
Fence Tester to check for mains
voltages. It’s not designed for this
role.
Conversely, do not use a test
screwdriver to check the operation of an electric fence. This is
because they are not rated for electric
fence voltages and the resistance in
series with the neon indicator may
break down. Once damaged, the test
screwdriver could present a serious
electric shock risk if it is then used
on the mains supply.
Fig.1 (above):
the mini electric
fence tester is
simply a neon
lamp in series
with enough
resistance to stop
you getting a belt!
Building it
Fig.2 : the PC
board layout.
Construction is
simplicity itself!
The hardest part
will be soldering
the wire loops.
Fig.2a shows the assembly details
for the PC board (code 11303994, 45 x
20mm). Install the parts as shown and
make some wire loops at each end for
the contacts. We used paper clip wire
for the loops and soldered this directly
to the copper pads. Alternatively, you
could use small screws and nuts to
Fig.2a : you hardly need a PC
secure the wire in place. This latter
board pattern as it is so simple
method will ensure that the copper
– but here it is anyway!
pads don’t come adrift due to strain
from the wire
loops.
Once
the
assembly is
complete, the
PC board can
be wrapped in
some clear heatshrink tubing,
leaving the wire
loops exposed.
It’s not easy to see any components through the
heatshrink but this photo gives an idea of construction.
Parts List
Mini Electric Fence Tester
1 PC board, code 11303994, 45 x 20mm
1 neon indicator, pigtail type
1 80mm length of 1mm diameter tinned copper wire or paper clip
3 330kΩ 1W resistors
1 45mm length of 25mm diameter clear heatshrink tubing
MAY 1999 39
“Midi” Electric Fence Voltage Tester
The Midi Electric Fence Voltage Tester is a slightly more
elaborate instrument than the Mini Tester. It also uses a
neon indicator but in this case the fence voltage can be read
off a calibrated scale after adjusting a single control knob.
As shown in the photo, the unit is housed in a small
plastic case and a small hole in the front panel allows the
neon indicator light to be seen when it flashes. As before,
the light output is quite low and you need to watch closely
to see the flash.
Fig.3 shows the circuit details. It’s really very simple
and consists of a voltage divider and the neon indicator
itself. In operation, the electric fence voltage is applied to a
series string of 19 10kΩ resistors which in turn feed a 10kΩ
potentiometer (VR1). The divided voltage is then tapped off
from VR1’s wiper. Why use so many 10kΩ resistors? The
answer is that they are necessary to provide a sufficient
voltage rating for the divider, which could encounter fence
voltages up to 10kV.
Fig.3 (left): the midi electric fence tester
is essentially a voltage divider across the
fence high tension. The neon lamp glows
when the fence voltage matches the scale
voltage selected by the potentiometer.
Fig.4a (above): the component
layout on the PC board. Note the
comments in the text about
reversing the lead connections:
you have been warned!!!
40 Silicon Chip
Housed in a small utility
box, the midi electric
fence tester is ideal for
occasional testing. The
probe is as used in a
multimeter.
VR1’s wiper applies the divided voltage to the neon
indicator via two 2.2kΩ resistors, while the common
side of the circuit is connected to the ground stake on
the electric fence.
A neon indicator will light when the voltage across it
reaches about 90V and so we use this characteristic to
calibrate the potentiometer (VR1). If the wiper is wound
fully towards the 10kΩ resistors, then the divider ratio
is such that the neon will flash when there is 1.8kV on
the electric fence. Conversely, as VR1 is wound towards
ground, the division ratio increases and so the input
voltage from the fence needs to be higher than 1.8kV in
order to light the neon indicator.
Let’s say, for example, that VR1 is set to its mid-posi
tion. In that case, the fence voltage needs to be at least
3.6kV to make the indicator flash.
One small complication with this circuit is that it
will not produce reliable results unless the body of the
potentiometer is well grounded.
If this isn’t done, the neon indicator conducts the fast
rise-time fence voltage into the air and hence shows a
small flash, even if the pot is wound fully down.
Although the pot body is grounded on the board via a
PC stake (and ultimately to the fence ground), the inductance of the ground lead is enough to cause problems with
fast rise-time voltages. For this reason, we have specified
a metal knob for the pot so that it can also be grounded
via your body. In practice, this means that measurements
must be made with your hand holding the metal knob, to
99% of the assembly work in this project is soldering
resistors! Fortunately, most are the same value.
prevent false readings from occurring.
When using the tester, the pot is
initially wound fully clockwise and
gradually backed off until the neon
indicator just begins to flash. The
fence voltage can then be read directly
off the scale.
Note that the overall resistance of
this tester is 200kΩ, so it shouldn’t
load down the fence voltage to any
measurable degree.
leads. These holes
should be fitted
with small rubber
grommets.
The pot shaft can
now be trimmed to
suit the knob, after
which the PC board
assembly can be
mounted on the lid
and secured using
the pot nut. When
fitting the knob,
rotate the pot shaft
fully clockwise,
then tighten the
grub-screw with the
pointer towards the
10.8kV position.
This done, feed the external leads
through the grommets and solder them
to the PC board. These leads should
have good insulation to prevent any
voltage breakdown between them.
Use a green or black alligator clip
for the earth wire connection and
a red insulated probe for the fence
terminal. This will prevent any
confusion when you are making the
connections to the electric fence.
Warning! – if you reverse the
connections to this tester, the body
of the pot and hence the knob will
be at the fence voltage. If the fence
is working correctly, this means that
you will get a nasty belt as soon as
you touch the knob. Get the connections the right way around and you
won’t have any problems.
Building it
Fig.4a shows the assembly details
for this fence tester. It’s built on a PC
board coded 11303993 and measuring
77 x 47mm. Start the assembly by
soldering in all the resistors, then in
stall PC stakes at the fence and ground
inputs, at the three pot terminal positions and at the ground position for
the pot’s body.
The potentiometer can now be
installed by soldering its terminals
to the PC stakes and by soldering its
body directly to the adjacent ground
stake. You will need to scrape away
some of the plating from the pot body
near the PC stake, using a file or sharp
knife, so that it can be soldered easily.
The neon indicator has its leads bent
at right angles before being soldered
into position. It can be secured to the
board with a dob of silicone sealant.
The next step is to attach the front
panel label to the lid of the case and
drill the holes for the pot shaft and for
viewing the neon indicator. You will
also need to drill two small holes in
the sides of the case for the external
Figs 4b & 4c: the front panel and PC
board artwork, reproduced same
size for those who wish to make
their own.
Parts List
Midi Electric Fence Tester
1 plastic case, 82 x 54 x 30mm
1 PC board coded 11303993,
77 x 47mm
1 front panel, 80 x 52mm
1 neon indicator, pigtail type
2 small rubber grommets
6 PC stakes
1 10kΩ 16mm pot. (VR1)
1 black or green aligator clip
1 red instrument probe
1 metal knob
1 1m length of blue or black 250VAC
rated wire
1 1m length of red 250VAC rated
wire
19 10kΩ 0.5W 1% metal film
resistors
2 2.2kΩ 0.5W 1% metal film
resistors
MAY 1999 41
“Maxi” Electric Fence Voltage Tester
Unlike the other two testers, the
Maxi Electric Fence Tester uses a
high-brightness xenon flash tube
although the circuit is only slightly
more complicated than before.
It uses an internal capacitor to
store up some charge from each
fence pulse and when this reaches a
critical level, the xenon tube emits
a bright flash.
This cycle is then repeated,
with the tube flashing at regular
intervals if the fence is operating
correctly.
As shown in the photos, the unit
is housed in a clear plastic case
and is designed to be permanently
attached to the fence.
Fig.5: the maxi electric
fence tester has a
somewhat similar circuit
to the midi model but in
this case fires a bright
Xenon flash tube, the
frequency depending on
the voltage on the fence.
42 Silicon Chip
The maxi fence controller, housed in a see-through and weatherproof plastic
case. The Xenon flash tube is clearly visible through the case so this can be left
permanently connected to the fence. We used the small plastic clips on the top
of the case and cable ties to secure this tester to a suitable fence post.
Fig.5 shows the circuit details. It
uses a string of 18 820Ω resistors to
provide current limiting and these
drive a bridge rectifier consisting of
diodes D1-D4. The output of the bridge
in turn is connected to the xenon tube
and to a parallel 0.47µF 630V polyester
capacitor. The trigger pulse for the xenon tube is derived by connecting its
trigger (T) terminal to a point higher
up the resistor string.
In operation, each fence pulse charges the capacitor by 10-40V, depending
on the pulse amplitude. When the
voltage across the capacitor reaches
200-300V, the xenon tube is ready to
fire. It then fires when the next fence
pulse takes the trigger input sufficiently high.
When the xenon tube fires, the
0.47µF capacitor quickly discharges.
The capacitor now recharges on each
successive electric fence pulse until
the breakover voltage of the xenon
tube is reached again.
The flash rate depends on the fence
voltage. The circuit draws about 0.5mJ
per pulse from the electric fence which
does not affect normal operation. This
is why the circuit can be left perma-
nently connected to the fence.
Building it
A PC board coded 11303992 and
measuring 77 x 47mm accommodates
all the parts – see Fig.6a. Begin by installing PC stakes at the two external
wiring positions, then fit the resistors
and diodes. Make sure the diodes (D1D4) are all correctly oriented.
The capacitor is installed on the
copper side of the PC board. Bend its
leads at right angles so that the body
of the capacitor can lie flat against the
board before soldering it into position
(see photo). This is necessary to allow
the PC board assembly to fit into the
specified case.
The leads of the xenon tube must
also be bent at right angles before
mounting it on the board. Use needle-nose pliers to hold the leads adjacent to the glass body before bending
them – if you don’t do this, you could
crack the glass tube. This done, solder
the tube into position and don’t forget
the trigger lead.
You will need to drill two holes in
the sides of the case for the external
leads. Fit these holes with rubber
Front (above) and rear (right) views of
the completed PC board. Note that the
0.47µF discharge capacitor attaches to
the copper side of the board.
grommets, then pass the leads through
and solder them to their respective PC
stakes on the PC board. It’s a good idea
to use a red lead for the HT connection to the fence and a blue or green
lead for the fence ground connection.
As with the previous design, these
leads should have good insulation,
to prevent any high-voltage leakage
between them.
The PC board is designed to clip
into the case against the integral side
pillars. If necessary, you can lightly
file the sides of the PC board so that
it is a neat fit.
Because it will be exposed to the
weather, it’s necessary to seal the wire
entry holes and the case lid using
silicone sealant. Before doing this,
however, it’s a good idea to test the
circuit to make sure it works correctly.
That way, if you do have a fault, you
can easily remove the board from
the case and check for missed or bad
solder joints, or incorrect component
placement.
Finally, you will have to figure out
some way to mount this unit. This may
involve fashioning a suitable clamp
or you can do what we did and fit a
couple of small plastic clips so that the
unit can be tied to a convenient fence
post using tie-wire.
The HT lead can be attached to the
electric fence using a suitable electric
fence joiner, while the ground lead
can be attached directly to a ground
SC
stake.
Figs 6a & b: follow the PC board
overlay (left) and you should have no
problems assembling the board. The
full-size PC board pattern above can
be used to etch your own board or
to check commercial boards before
assembly.
Parts List
Maxi Electric Fence Tester
1 clear plastic plastic case, 82 x
54 x 30mm
1 PC board, code 11303992, 77
x 47mm
1 straight 32mm-long xenon
flashtube
2 fence clips
2 PC stakes
1 1m length of green or blue
250VAC rated wire
1 1m length of red 250VAC rated
wire
2 electric fence wire joiners
4 1N4936 1A fast diodes (D1-D4)
1 0.47µF 630V polyester
capacitor
1 220kΩ 0.5W 1% metal film
resistor
18 820Ω 0.5W 1% metal film
resistors
MAY 1999 43
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PRODUCT SHOWCASE
1800W/230V Inverter With Pure Sinewave Output
If you’ve ever needed to run sensitive test equipment, computers, audio
or video equipment from an inverter,
you would know the problems
most inverters cause. That’s
because most inverters have at
best a modified sinewave output,
meaning harmonics, distortion
and interference.
A new 1800W inverter available
through Bainbridge Technologies
solves that problem because it has
true sinewave output, enabling
devices connected to it to run at
their full rating. Motors, for example, start easier and run cooler
and quieter.
Measuring 391 x 279 x 115 (mm)
and weighing 7.5kg, the Statpower
Prosine 1800 is no lightweight –
but then again, with 1800W output,
you wouldn’t expect it to be. It features short circuit protection, under/
over voltage shutdown, over temperature shutdown, overload shutdown
and AC backfeed protection.
Battery polarity is clearly marked
but if you do manage to connect the
battery with reverse polarity battery
an internal fuse will blow and service
will be required.
Total harmonic distortion (THD) is
claimed to be typically 1% while efficiency is claimed to range from 84% at
200W out up to 90% at 1kW out, dropping marginally at full output. The
output must be derated above ambient
temperatures of 35°C (dropping to
900W at 60°C). The 5-second surge rating is
2900W.
Connection
is via a pair of
large bolt terminals and power
output is via a
standard 240V AC
mains socket (a
hard-wired version is
also available). An LCD panel
displays the DC input voltage and
current while a bargraph shows the AC
output in watts. The same panel will
also display a range of fault conditions.
With a current drain of 170A or more
at full output, a heavy duty battery is
required. Statpower specify a range
of deep cycle batteries such as those
used in marine, recreational vehicle
and golf cart applications. Standard
automotive batteries are not recommended, except in emergencies.
In use
We must admit we had a problem
when we fired up the Statpower
Prosine 1800. Not so much with the
inverter operation – that was fine. We
have the ’scope pattern to prove it: you
couldn’t want a much better sinewave
(ignore the digital scope artefacts on
the waveform).
And look at those measurements:
as close to 50Hz as possible and the
voltage just a tad over spec at 231.6V.
That was with a load of about 200W.
No, our problem was with our
battery. Against the specific warning
about using a car battery, we used. . . a
car battery. None of us at SILICON CHIP
is fortunate enough to own a golf cart
or a fork lift so we couldn’t purloin a
big battery.
We tried to get away with a littlie:
it tried hard but couldn’t handle the
load. When we tried to draw significantly more power, the inverter did
exactly the right thing and shut down.
The LCD display told us why – under
voltage). We tried using some monstrous leads (400A-ish) but it
was the battery that was letting
us down.
Still, the results we did achieve
lead us to believe that the Statpower Prosine 1800 would deliver the goods if used correctly.
Curiosity got the better of us
and we had a good look inside
– and were impressed! It’s very
well constructed and looks as
though some very serious design
work indeed has gone into this
inverter! That’s not surprising,
because Statpower makes a large
range of similar equipment.
Incidentally, if you’re looking
for a smaller inverter, Bainbridge
Technologies have available a much
smaller (and lower cost) 150W inverter
intended for domestic appliances and
small hand tools (see pic below).
For further information contact
Bainbridge Technologies, 77 Shore St,
Cleveland, Qld. Tel (07) 3821 3333.
Fax (07) 3821 3977.
MAY 1999 53
Redback PA Amps from Altronics High Quality
A/V Cable Range
Altronics has released a new range
The output is AGC limited to
of Redback Phase 4 Public Address
prevent dangerously high voltages
Amplifiers. Available in either mixer appearing at the output when lightly From DSE
or booster format the Phase 4 incorporates thermally cued on demand cooling coupled with a custom-designed
heatsink tunnel ensuring the amplifier
runs cool under all conditions.
Power outputs of 125 + 250W for
the mixer amps and 125, 250 and
500W for the booster amps ALL in a
2RU chassis.
loaded.
Distortion is typically less than
0.2% at 1kHz full power full load,
while LED monitors show output
level, input presence, overload, AGC
and power.
The Redback Phase 4 Amplifiers
are Australian designed and manufactured and are covered by a 2 year
warranty.
For further information
contact Altronic Distributors
on 08 9328
2199.
Oxley Amateur Field Day
One of the premier events for
amateur radio operators and electronics enthusiasts of the mid-north
and north coasts of NSW, the Oxley
Amateur Field Day, is again being
held at Port Macquarie on the
Queen’s Birthday weekend, June
12&13.
This annual event is very pop-ular
with exhibits and demonstrations
from a number of suppliers of equipment, the usual “bring and buy” flea
market and various fox hunt events.
The Field Day will be held at the
Sea Scout Hall, Buller St, Port Macquarie from 1-4pm Saturday and the
main day, 9am-4pm Sunday
For further information contact
David, VK2AYD on (02) 6585 2647 or
email davpil<at>midcoast.com.au
In response to the increasing popularity of Home Theatre systems and
the re-emergence of separate hifi
components, Dick Smith Electronics
have introduced two new ranges of
high quality cables.
The “Harmony” and higher spec
“Harmony Gold” ranges have more
than 40 cables including audio, video
and optical, in a variety of lengths and
connectors. They range in price from
$12.95 for the Harmony 2-metre RCA/
RCA lead up to $49.95 for the 5-metre
Harmony Gold 3xRCA/3xRCA lead.
The optical cables are suitable
for the latest technology consumer
products such as DVD players, digital
video cameras, mini disc players and
amplifiers with Dolby Digital and
Dolby ProLogic.
All cables are available from Dick
Smith Electronics stores throughout
Australia or via mail order.
Two VGA Screens
From One Computer
There are many applications
where computer images need to be
displayed to a wider audience than
one monitor will allow.
Education is the most obvious
but demonstrations, retailing, computer presentations, point-of-sale
and even computer video/games/
entertainment can all benefit from
a second screen.
Questronix have released a small
VGA splitter, the VGS2, which does
exactly that: 1 VGA input in, 2 out.
Perhaps even more importantly, the
second screen can be up to 65 metres
away from the source using “HQ”
54 Silicon Chip
cables.
The system works
with VGA, SVGA and
XGA signals. It also
has the ability, via
an optional remote
switch assembly, to
send the remote screen black while
the local screen remains active.
This is very handy in education
where a teacher or trainer wants the
students’ attention. Or it can be used
to load programs or sensitive information without that being viewed on the
remote screen.
Priced at $169 (inc tax) and includ-
ing a 12V plugpack supply and one
VGA computer lead, the VGS2 is
available direct from Questronix,
PO Box 548, Hornsby NSW 2076.
Tel (02) 9477 3681, Fax (02) 9477
3569.
Mo r e info r m atio n is a l s o
available from their website,
www.questronix.com.au/~questav
You’ve Heard of Caller ID;
Now There’s Talking Caller ID!
Jackson Industries, one of the major
suppliers of telephone and communication accessories to retailers in
Australia, has introduced a Talking
Caller ID unit to the Australian market.
The Model TC509 ID unit connects
to the telephone line in the same way
as conventional caller ID units but instead of displaying the calling number,
announces it after the first “ring”. This
patented technology, developed in the
US, will be available in Australia from
June this year. Recommended retail
price is $59.95.
The unit stores the last 10 calls for
review and will announce the number,
time and date of each incoming call for
later review. In future months other
models will be released which feature
both incoming caller ID announcement and number display.
Intusoft Offers
Free Books
Intusoft has announced that they
are giving away free copies of their
popular Power Specialist’s App Note
Book on their company website. In
addition, Intusoft has initiated a
“SPICE Model of the Month” posting
on their website.
The book, an information-packed
handbook for power supply designers, contains over 35 technical articles
on power supply design and power
electronics modeling.
The book is available for immediate
down-load from the Intusoft website,
both in its entirety (in pdf format),
or in individual articles at: http:
//www.intusoft.com/psbook.htm
The individual articles are also
available in the Adobe Acrobat “pdf”
format.
Intusoft’s web site also features
a new posting of a “SPICE Model
Library of the Month”. Each month,
a new SPICE model library will be
available free.
The “SPICE Model of the Month”
can be found at: http://www.intusoft.
com/models.htm
The company offers other free
SPICE models at: http://www.intusoft.
com/models.htm#freemodels
SMART FASTCHARGERS®
2 NEW MODELS WITH OPTIONS
TO SUIT YOUR NEEDS & BUDGET
Now with 240V AC + 12V DC operation
PLUS fully automatic voltage detection
Use these REFLEX® chargers for all your
Nicads and NIMH batteries: Power tools
Torches Radio equip. Mobile phones
Video cameras Field test instruments
RC models incl. indoor flight Laptops
Photographic equip. Toys Others
Rugged, compact and very portable.
Designed for maximum battery capacity
and longest battery life.
For further information, contact
Jackson Industries, PO Box 6388
BHBC, Baulkham Hills, NSW 2153.
Phone (02) 9899 8833; Fax (02) 9899
8378; email chris<at>ji.com.au
Nepcon ’99 for
Melbourne
The electronics equipment and
component show, Nepcon 99, will be
held in Melbourne’s Exhibition and
Convention Centre from 25-27 May.
The Australian debut of Nepcon in
Sydney was hailed by exhibitors and
visitors alike as a benchmark for the
electronics industry’s direction into
the next millennium.
This year, Nepcon will feature the
latest local and international electronics products including: design and
manufacturing equipment, PCB fabrication and assembly components, test
and measurement equipment, EMI/
RFI products, satellite and microwave
technology, defence equipment, electronic design tools, racks, enclosures
and components.
Another first at Nepcon ’99 will be
an informative specialised conference
featuring national and international
guest speakers who will present tutorials and workshops.
The focus and theme of the conference is ‘Education’ and a comprehensive speaker and workshop program
has been organised.
For further information on Nepcon
’99 contact Reed Exhibitions Companies on (02) 9422 2518.
SC
AVOIDS THE WELL KNOWN MEMORY EFFECT.
SAVES MONEY & TIME: Restore most Nicads with
memory effect to capacity. Recover batteries with
very low remaining voltage.
CHARGES VERY FAST plus ELIMINATES THE
NEED TO DISCHARGE: charge standard batteries in
minimum 3 min., max. 1 to 4 hrs, depending on mA/h
rating. Partially empty batteries are just topped up.
Batteries always remain cool; this increases the total
battery life and also the battery’s reliability.
DESIGNED AND MADE IN AUSTRALIA
For a FREE, detailed technical description please
Ph (03) 6492 1368; Fax (03) 6492 1329; or
email smartfastchargers<at>bigpond.com
2567 Wilmot Rd., Devonport, TAS 7310
PCB POWER
TRANSFORMERS
1VA to 25VA
Manufactured in Australia
Harbuch Electronics Pty Ltd
9/40 Leighton Pl. HORNSBY 2077
Ph (02) 9476-5854 Fx (02) 9476-3231
MAY 1999 55
Tell someone you love them!
a
e
v
a
H art
e
H
Now is the month of May-ing,
when merry lads are play-ing,
Fa-la-la-la and as everyone knows,
it will soon be Mother’s Day.
So we have produced a project for Mother’s
Day and for any other day that you want to tell
someone you love ’em. It is the Heart of LEDs.
Build it now and you’ll be in that special
someone’s “good books”.
by LES GRANT*
56 Silicon Chip
B
ACK IN NOVEMBER 1998 we
published the “Christmas Star”.
It turned out to be very popular
and just the ornament for the top of
the Christmas tree.
We’re taking the same basic idea
and indeed the same circuit to produce a version for Mother’s Day: the
Heart of LEDs.
Now you can have something different to give to that special Mum or
Grandmother. Or you may be able to
redeem yourself if you forgot St Valentines Day!
Either way, the
Heart of LEDs will
certainly last a
lot longer than
the traditional
bunch of flowers!
O r, i f y o u
don’t want to
give your heart
away, you can
actually wear it
“on your sleeve”
or better still, on
your lapel.
This is readily
done if the Heart
of LEDs is powered
from four AA cells
and these could be installed in a 4‑cell holder
which you keep in your
pocket.
The Heart of LEDs is a modestly sized PC board with an array of
30 LEDs arranged in two concentric
heart‑shaped patterns, ie, one heart
inside the other. Driven by a single
IC microcontroller, it flashes the LEDs
in a seemingly endless sequence of
patterns.
For those who don’t like microcontroller projects, just pretend the
micro is a dedicated LED driver IC
that happens to have been designed
to control 30 LEDs in the shape of a
Heart (what a stroke of luck!).
And it won’t be declared obsolete
just after publication like a purposedesigned IC might be!
As the design is derived from the
Christmas Star, those readers who
saw that article will notice that the
schematic is very similar.
In fact, you might think it is identical but the row connections to the
microcontroller are different.
The major differences between the
Heart and the Star are in the shape of
the PC board, the physical layout of
the LEDs and the software.
Why use a Microcontroller?
Using a PC parallel port to control
external devices is a popular approach
these days but imagine the response
when you present your Mum with a
flashing Heart attached to an umbilical cable running into the next room!
No, self‑contained is better.
The answer is to use a small micro-
Heart of my heart: give this to your Mum
on Mother’s Day or wear it on your lapel
when you’re out and about. This board
has the 8‑pin socket for an optional
EEPROM but this can be left out.
controller. They are cheap and easy to
use. And if the software doesn’t work
first time (when does it?), you simply
change the program and re‑program
the micro.
As this project demonstrates, by
changing the software you can make
a circuit which originally did one job
do something quite different.
Now we’re not going to go into the
ins and outs of the circuit because that
was done in the November 1998 issue
of SILICON CHIP. We’ll just mention
that the microcontroller is the Atmel
AT89C2051 and is a version of the
8051 family.
Here it is used to drive 30 LEDs
which are connected in an X‑Y matrix;
ie, the LEDs are interconnected in 6
rows and 5 columns.
The appropriate combination of
LEDs in a column is switched on for
a short time (about 2ms)
and the process is repeated for each column,
taking just 10ms
for a full cycle.
Provided the
multiplexing
is done quickly enough, the
persistence of
vision “fills in
the gaps” and
we see all combinations of
LEDs without
any flicker.
The power
supply uses
a 7805 3‑terminal regulator
with 0.1µF bypass
capacitors at its input
and output. Diode D1
provides reverse polarity
power protection. The maximum current drawn by the
Heart is about 140mA with all
LEDs on but less than about 50mA
for most patterns. It is powered by a
9V DC plugpack. Do not use a 12V
DC plugpack as the higher output
voltage will cause excessive heat in
the 3‑terminal regulator.
The software
As with the Christmas Star, the
basic source code for the Heart will
be available free (you can download
it from www.grantronics.com.au). An
extended version that uses an optional
24C16 EEPROM for storage may also
eventually become available.
The software is written in C language using the low cost Dunfield
Development Systems Micro/C compiler. There is nothing particularly
smart or tricky about the software – it
was written to be easy to understand
and to encourage use of small micros.
Consequently, there are no interrupt routines and no use of the
MAY 1999 57
Fig.1: the microcontroller (IC1) drives the 30 LEDs in a 5 x 6 matrix, with 5 columns and 6 rows. The EEPROM is
optional, to store extra patterns in the future. It can be left out.
counter/timers, the UART or the
comparator though Micro/C can make
use of these resources.
The software is table driven. This
means that the display patterns and
sequences are determined by data
stored in a table (an array of bytes).
There is a simple interpreter that
scans through the table to perform the
specified operations.
The defined byte values are listed
in Table 1. Note that the software for
the Heart is a little smarter than for
the Christmas Star – so it can do more
Table 1: Software Table
Byte value or range
01 to 30 (0x01 to 0x1e)
33 to 62 (0x21 to 0x3e)
64 (0x40)
65 to 79 (0x41 to 0x4f)
128 (0x80)
129 to 191 (0x81 to 0xbf)
253 (0xfd)
254 (0xfe)
255 (0xff)
58 Silicon Chip
Operation
Turn on LED 1 to 30
Turn off LED 1 to 30 (LED number = byte ‑ 32)
Go back to byte after loop start
Loop start, count = byte ‑ 64
Delay (use last delay count), each count = 10ms
Delay, count = byte ‑ 128, each count = 10ms
All LEDs on
All LEDs off
End of table
complex pattern sequences.
Note also that there are still quite
a few undefined values so future expansion is possible.
Putting it together
Assembly of the PC board is quite
straightforward. You will need a
soldering iron with a fine tip, preferably temperature‑controlled to about
320°C.
The first step is to carefully check
for shorts between tracks and broken
tracks. Fit the smallest parts first, the
wire links, followed by the resistors
and diodes.
Next, fit the crystal (or resonator)
and the IC socket for the micro. Then
install the transistors, capacitors and
LEDs.
Pay particular attention to the orientation of the LEDs – they all point the
same way but they don’t work when
installed backwards!
Finally, install the 3‑terminal regulator and the 2.1mm DC power socket.
Don’t insert the micro into its socket
just yet.
Do another close visual inspection,
looking for solder bridges especially
on the transistor pads. Then apply
power and check for the presence of
5V between pin 20 (+) and pin 10 of
the socket for IC1.
If all is OK, remove the power, plug
in the micro (make sure it’s the right
way around) and apply power again.
The micro then generates quite a
range of patterns with the LEDs which
then repeat after a while.
Running it from batteries
Earlier, we mentioned the possibility of running the circuit directly from
four AA cells; ie, 6V. To do this, you
would need to omit the 7805 regulator
and connect a link from D1 to C5.
This will give a supply rail of close
to +5.4V. Note that the diode must be
present because the maximum supply
for the microcontroller is 6V.
The hole near LED2 may be used to
hang the Heart. If you hard‑wire the
power supply, you may be able to use
this hole as a strain relief and hang the
Heart on the power wires.
Finally, the appearance of the Heart
may be enhanced by placing a piece of
red cellophane over the front.
Fig.2: the component
overlay. Make sure that
you insert all the LEDs
correctly. The cathode or
flat side is oriented away from
the DC socket in all cases. Don’t
insert the micro until you’ve done a
voltage check on the board (see text).
– it is so easy to change the behaviour
by changing the software. And what
about the optional 24C16 EEPROM?
Well, an enhanced version of the
Heart would read its data from the
EEPROM for much longer sequences.
To check out the latest version of
Fault finding
If the 5V DC is not present, check
the applied power polarity. The centre pin of the 2.1mm DC socket (SK1)
must be positive.
Check that D1 is correctly fitted, and
check the tracks from SK1 via diode
D1 and the 7805 to IC1 for breaks or
shorts. If one LED does not work, it
may be inserted backwards or it may
be shorted by a solder bridge between
its pads.
If one group of adjacent LEDs does
not work, check the circuitry and soldering around the appropriate column
drive transistor.
If several individual LEDs do not
work, check the corresponding row
drive circuitry. Remember, faulty
components are rare but soldering
faults are common.
The future
The Heart is still evolving. That is
part of the attraction of using a micro
the software, log in at http://www.
grantronics.com.au If you don’t have
Internet access, send a stamped ($1)
self‑addressed envelope with an IBM
format 3.5‑inch disc to Grant-ronics
and you will be sent the current
software files.
Parts List
1 Heart‑shaped PC board, code 08205991
1 2.1mm DC connector (SK1)
1 crystal or ceramic resonator, approx 12MHz (X1)
1 20‑pin IC socket
1 9V DC 150mA plugpack or
4 AA cells and
1 4 AA cell holder
Semiconductors
1 AT89C2051 programmed microprocessor (IC1) # – See next page
1 7805 5V regulator (REG1)
30 red LEDs (LED1‑LED30)
5 BC557 PNP transistors (Q1‑Q5)
1 1N4002 power diode (D1)
1 1N4148, 1N914 silicon diode (D2)
Resistors
5 2.2kΩ
6 120Ω
(code: red red red brown or red red black brown brown)
(code: brown red brown brown or brown red brown black brown)
Capacitors
1 10µF 16VW electrolytic
3 0.1µF monolithic or MKT polyester
2 27pF ceramic
(code: 104 or 100n)
(code: 27 or 27p)
MAY 1999 59
Included more for interest than
anything else, this “accidental” photo
clearly shows the multiplexing of the
LEDs as they are being scanned in a
linear motion. No, LEDs do not light
up in stripes!
Acknowledgement:
I would like to thank the people at
BEC Manufacturing who rushed the
prototype boards through in time for
publication.
SC
* Les Grant is the Engineering Director at Grantronics Pty Ltd, electronics
design engineers. Grantronics are the
Australian distributors for Dunfield Development Systems low priced software
development tools. See the advertisement in the Market Centre.
Fig.3 actual
size artwork
for the PC board.
#Where to buy the kit
Jaycar Electronics stores will have the complete kit available for $29.95.
Alternatively, Grantronics Pty Ltd can supply the programmed microprocessors for $10 plus $5 for packing and postage. Send remittances to Grantronics
Pty Ltd, PO Box 275, Wentworthville, NSW 2145. Phone (02) 9896 7150.
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60 Silicon Chip
CARBON
MONOXIDE
ALARM
By JOHN CLARKE
Exposure to carbon monoxide
(CO) gas produces an
insidious form of poisoning
which at best can give the
victim a headache and at
worst can result in death.
This CO Gas Monitor
warns you of rising
CO levels and emits a
loud tone when the
concentration
reaches a
preset
threshold.
Features
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Sensitive detection of CO gas (<200ppm)
Uses rugged and reliable semiconductor sensor
Sensitivity adjustment
Precautionary CO level visual alarm
Main higher CO level visual and auditory alarm
Main alarm reset on continuous tone alarm
Automatic purging of sensor
7-minute CO sensing time every ten minutes
2-minute sensor heat purging time
MAY 1999 61
D
ON’T BE TOO COMPLACENT here is that people often associate diz- on the dashboard of your vehicle or
mounted towards the rear of a van or
about the risks of CO poison- ziness and nausea with “car sickness”
ing in your car, particularly if or “motion sickness”. However, it’s station-wagon.
you drive an old “bomb”. Admittedly, quite possible that what is described
While presented as a standalone
there’s not much risk in a modern car as “car sickness” is really a good dose
unit and perfectly practical as deof carbon monoxide.
or if the vehicle is well maintained.
scribed, even this small case might
On older cars, however, there’s a
Table 1 shows the effects of various
look out of place in a today’s modern
very real danger if the seal around the levels of CO concentration. As you cars – that’s if you can find a suitable
rear door or bootlid has deteriorated can see, even small concentrations mounting position at all.
sufficiently to allow exhaust gases to
spell real danger. That’s because
A more practical arrangement
seep into the cabin.
carbon monoxide has over 200 times might be to mount the PC board
If the bootlid or rear door no longer more affinity with the haemoglobin
without the case under the dashboard,
in your blood than oxygen. It literally
seal properly, exhaust gases can be
with the CO sensor, front panel LEDs
stops the blood supply from carrying and switches mounted somewhere
sucked into the rear of the vehicle
oxygen and if enough haemoglobin is more suitable.
as you drive along. Rust holes are
affected, the brain suffers from oxygen
another problem.
Another idea would be to mount the
starvation.
Opening a window doesn’t ease the
project, complete in its case in, say,
In severe cases, a blood transfusion the boot, again with the CO sensor,
situation; in fact it can often turn a bad
situation deadly by altering
LEDs and switches brought
airflow within the vehicle.
to a small plate mounted
Table 1: Effects of CO Gas Poisoning and Symptoms
You could be driving along
on or under the dashboard.
seemingly unaffected while
Regardless of where it’s
CO Gas Symptoms
your rear seat passengers cop
installed, this unit is very
Concentration
a bad dose of carbon monsensitive to the presence of
50ppm
Exposure for a few hours normally
oxide (CO) poisoning with
CO gas. Just driving along
results in no symptoms
possible fatal consequences.
in heavy bumper-to-bumpThe other big danger is
er traffic with the window
100ppm
Exposure for a few hours results in
from a poorly maintained exopen or the airconditioner
a slight headache in the forehead
haust system. If there’s a hole
set to “fresh-air” is enough
500ppm
Exposure for one hour results in a
anywhere in the system, it’s
to trigger the unit, for exheadache with increasing severerity
possible that exhaust gases
ample.
over time
could seep past any defecSo far, we’ve only talked
tive seals and into the cabin.
about using this alarm in
1000ppm
Exposure for 20-30 minutes results
The answer here is obvious
a motor vehicle. With a
in a headache, dizziness and nausea;
– make sure that the exhaust
suitable 12V supply, the
possible death within 2 hours
system is regularly inspected
unit could also find use in
4000ppm
Exposure results in possible death
and correctly maintained.
a service workshop or anywithin 30 minutes
Driving in bumpwhere else where exposure
er-to-bumper traffic can also
to CO gas is a risk.
is the only way to save the victim
expose you to excessive concentraThe unit is very easy to use and has
from death.
tions of CO gas. Because there are
just two switches and four indicator
By the way, it’s estimated that a LEDs on the front panel. The functions
so many cars so close together, it’s
heavy cigarette smoker will have of the Power and Reset switches are
inevitable that there will be some
about 5% of his/her available hae- self-explanatory, as is the function
exposure to exhaust gases.
moglobin tied up by CO at any given of the Reset switch. The other three
This applies particularly if you
drive with the window open or with time. The symptoms for CO poisoning
LEDs are designated “Heat”, “Alarm”
begin to occur when this percentage and “Warning”.
your interior air fan or airconditionreaches about 10%, while the onset
ing set to “fresh air”. Setting the fan
The Heat LED indicates a heat
or airconditioner to “recirculate” is of death occurs at about 20%.
purging cycle for the gas sensor, while
These figures suggest that a smoker the Alarm LED lights (and an internal
the answer here, especially if you are
is far more susceptible to CO poi- piezo alarm sounds) when a critical
stopped at traffic lights.
soning than a non-smoker, simply CO level is reached. Finally, the WarnHow do you know when you’re
because they are starting out from a ing LED flashes to give a preliminary
being exposed to excessive CO levels?
Well, you might not know until it’s 5% higher base.
warning that the CO concentration is
too late. That’s because CO is utterly
on the rise.
CO monitor
colourless and odorless but nonetheThe CO sensor itself protrudes from
Because CO gas is impossible for the rear panel of the case. This is a
less quite deadly.
First symptoms, from quite small the individual to detect, we set out to
low-cost semiconductor unit made
design an effective yet easy-to-build
concentrations of CO gas, are headby Nemoto. It contains a heating
aches, nausea and dizziness, while CO monitor. The end result is the
element and a semiconductor senexposure to higher levels quickly self-contained unit described here.
sor surrounded by a catalytic layer.
It is housed in a small plastic in- These parts are contained in a 19mm
causes unconsciousness and death.
er cylindrical case with six
An interesting point to consider strument case which can be placed diamet
62 Silicon Chip
Self-contained in a plastic case and plugging into a car cigarette
lighter socket, the CO Alarm can be moved from vehicle to vehicle.
Alternatively, it could be “built in”, with or without the case.
°
pins protruding from the base and
with a double gauze wire mesh over
the element.
The double layer of wire mesh is
there to prevent an explosion if the
sensor is exposed to dangerous concentrations of inflammable gas.
In operation, the sensor is heated to
a temperature of 130-170°C and when
CO gas becomes trapped on the catalytic layer, electrons are transferred
to the semiconductor element. This
markedly reduces the effective resistance of the semiconductor element to
reveal the presence of the gas.
When the gas dissi
pates, the resistance of the semiconductor layer
returns to normal. Over time, other
gases such as hydrogen, petrol vapours and alcohol vapours are ab-
sorbed onto the catalytic surface and
cause contamination.
To prevent false readings, these are
periodically burnt off by raising the
temperature of the heating element to
around 450°C.
By the way, in case you’re wondering, this unit is really only suitable for
detecting carbon monoxide. It is fairly
insensitive to hydrocarbon vapours
(although it can detect very high concentrations), which means that it is
unsuitable for detecting petrol fumes.
Block diagram
Fig.1 shows the block diagram of
the CO Alarm. The circuit is powered from a 12V supply (eg, via the
cigarette lighter socket) and this is
regulated to give a +5.5V rail using
REG1. This rail then supplies the
heater and the semiconductor element
in the CO sensor, along with the rest
of the circuit.
The sensor heater element must
be driven correctly to suc
cessfully
purge any contaminating gases on the
semiconductor element.
The specifications state that the
CO sensor be heated to 450°C for 1-3
minutes, while the CO sensing time
should be 6-10 minutes. These times
are set by the Timer circuit, with LED2
switching on during the heat purging
period.
In this case, the Timer circuit heats
the sensor element for two minutes
when power is first applied and repeats this 2-minute heating (purge)
cycle every 10 minutes after that.
Fig. 1: operation of the CO Alarm
is easily understood when you
break it down into circuit
elements, as shown in this block
diagram.
MAY 1999 63
Fig.2: the circuit might seem a little complicated at first glance but it’s quite simple. It uses just three ICs, six
transistors, a 3-terminal regulator and a handful of other parts plus, of course, the carbon monoxide sensor.
During each 2-minute heating period
and for one minute afterwards, the
signal output from the CO sensor is
grounded via Q3 in the Output Control section of the circuit. This is done
to prevent false readings.
At the end of each 3-minute period,
Q3 turns off and so the signal from
the CO sensor is fed to the following
comparator stages. There are two
comparator stages here – a “latching
com
parator” based on IC1a and a
“warning comparator” based on IC1c.
Basically, the warning comparator
monitors the CO sensor output during
the 7-minute sensing period. If the CO
64 Silicon Chip
level reaches a moderate level during
this time, it enables a Flasher circuit
(IC1d). This in turn drives LED4,
which flashes on and off to provide a
preliminary warning.
If the CO level subsequently rises
past a critical point, the latching
comparator (IC1a) lights LED3 via
transistor Q4. It also activates a tone
generator circuit based on IC1b and
this then drives the piezo alarm via
Q5 and Q6.
Note that the piezo driver is modulated by the flasher so that the sound
occurs in short bursts rather than
continuously.
The latching comparator now remains in this state until it is reset.
This takes place automatically at the
end of the first minute of the sensing
period. If the CO level is still high after
the reset, the comparator immediately
returns to the latched-on state.
Conversely, if the output from the
CO sensor is below the comparator
threshold at the time of reset (ie, the
CO level has dropped), the comparator output switches low and turns off
the alarm. Alternatively, the circuit
can be reset manually at any time,
so that the CO level can be retested.
If CO is present, the output from
the CO sensor will normally
only go low when heat purging
starts again at the end of the
10-minute cycle. Provided it
had already been triggered
during the latter part of the
sensing period, the piezo
alarm will continue to sound
into the purging period but the
tone will change from pulsed
to continuous.
This continuous tone indicates that the manual reset can
be used to silence the alarm.
The circuit
OK, so much for the basic
theory of operation. To find
out how it all works in practice, take a look now at the
full circuit diagram (Fig.2). It
might seem a little complicated at first glance but it’s really
quite simple. It uses just three
ICs, six transistors, a 3-terminal regulator and a handful of
other parts – plus, of course,
the CO sensor.
The +12V rail from the car’s
battery comes in via switch S1
and is applied directly to the
input of REG1, an LM317T
adjustable regulator. Zener diode ZD1 protects the regulator
from voltage transients, while
the 100µF capacitor provides
supply decoupling.
In operation, REG1 produces 1.25V between the adjust
(ADJ) and output (OUT)
terminals. The 120Ω resistor
between these terminals sets
the current between them to
10.4mA and this current flows
Fig.3: use this component layout in conjunction
with the photo overleaf to help with construction.
to ground through trimpot
VR1. Setting VR1 to 408Ω
gives 4.25V between ADJ and
ground, which means that the
applied, its output at pin 3 is high and period is 0.693 x 150kΩ x 220µF. This
output of REG1 will be at 4.25 + 1.25V
the 220µF capacitor charges towards gives figures of 38.12s and 22.87s
= 5.5V. In practice, VR1 is simply ad- the positive supply rail (Vcc) via the respectively, for a total period of just
justed for the correct output voltage.
100kΩ and 150kΩ resistors. When the over one minute (60.99s).
A second 100µF capacitor decou- voltage at pin 6 subsequently reaches
In turn, pin 3 of IC2 clocks IC3, a
ples the regulator output, while LED1 2/3Vcc, pin 7 switches low, as does 4017 decade (divide-by-10) counter.
provides power indication. The 470Ω pin 3, and the capacitor discharges This counter has 10 independent
resistor in series with LED1 limits the via the 150kΩ resistor until it reaches
outputs which sequentially go high
1/ Vcc. At this point, pin 7 goes open
current through it to about 7mA.
on receipt of a clock signal from IC1.
3
IC2, a 555 timer wired in astable circuit again, pin 3 goes high and the
When power is first applied, IC3 is
capacitor charges once more to 2/3Vcc.
mode, forms the heart of the clock
reset via the 10µF capacitor on pin
circuit. Its timing components are This cycle repeats indefinitely while 15 (this capacitor briefly pulls pin
ever power is applied.
connected to pins 2 & 6 and consist
15 high) and so its “0” output at pin
The charging period for the 220µF 3 is high. As a result, transistor Q1 is
of a 220µF capacitor and the 150kΩ
capacitor is simply 0.693 x (100kΩ + turned on via D6 and the associated
and 100kΩ resistors. It operates as
150kΩ) x 220µF, while the discharge 4.7kΩ base resistor. Q1, in turn, drives
follows: initially, when power is first
MAY 1999 65
This photograph of the
completed project,
looking from front to
back, gives you a good
idea of how large the
project is. It will also help
with component
placement during
assembly.
the base of Q2 which also turns on
and connects pin 6 of the CO sensor
to ground to apply the full 5.5V rail
across the heating coil element.
Q2 also turns on LED2 to indicate
that the heater is operating.
At the same time, transistor Q3
turns on via diodes D6 and D8. This
transistor shunts the output of the CO
sensor to ground via a 10kΩ resistor,
to prevent the following comparator
stages from detecting any false signals.
When IC2 subsequently clocks the
“1” output (pin 2) of IC3 high (after
one minute), transistors Q1-Q3 all
remain on due to the forward bias now
provided via diode D7. At the end of
the second minute, the “2” output (pin
4) of IC3 switches high and forward
bias to Q3 is supplied via D9. Conversely, D8 is reverse biased and so
Q1 & Q2 switch off to end the heating
(purge) cycle after two minutes.
Note, however, that a residual current still flows through the heater coil
to ground via the parallel 180Ω and
3.9kΩ resistors on pin 6 of the sensor.
The effective voltage across the heating coil is now only 0.8V and so the
temperature quickly drops towards
the desired 130-170°C operating range
for CO sensing.
66 Silicon Chip
Q3 remains on during this time,
to short the sensor output to prevent
false readings while the temperature
stabilises. At the end of the third minute, IC3’s “2” output goes low, transis
tor Q3 turns off and the signal from
the sensor is now fed to comparators
IC1a & IC1c via a 10kΩ resistor. Diode
D1 isolates the comparator inputs.
Warning comparator
IC1c, part of an LM324 quad op
amp, is the warning comparator. Its
pin 13 inverting input is biased to
1.28V by a voltage divider consisting
of 33kΩ and 10kΩ resistors and this
sets the comparator threshold. The
output from the CO sensor appears
at pins 5 & 7, while trimpot VR2 sets
the sensitivity.
Normally, when CO concentrations
are low, the output from the sensor
is less than the comparator theshold
voltage (1.28V). As a result, pin 14 of
IC1c is low and D5 pulls pin 9 of IC1d
low to prevent this flasher oscillator
from operating.
Conversely, if the CO sensor output
rises above 1.28V (ie, if excessive CO
is detected), the voltage on pin 12 of
IC1c will be greater than the voltage
on pin 13.
When this happens,
pin 14 of IC1c switches
high and reverse biases
D5, thereby allowing the
flasher oscillator based on
IC1d to operate.
IC1d is also part of
the LM324 quad op amp
package and is wired as a
0.5Hz oscillator. Its period
of oscillation is set by the
100kΩ feedback resistor
between pins 8 & 9 and
by the asso
ciated 10µF
timing capacitor. The
two 10kΩ resistors on
pin 10 nominally bias the
non-inverting input to half
supply (1/2 Vcc), while the
10kΩ feedback resistor
between pin 8 and pin 10
provides hysteresis. This feedback
resistor provides upper and lower
threshold voltages of +3.67V and
+1.83V respectively.
The circuit works as follows. When
no CO gas is present, pin 9 of IC1d is
held low and so the output at pin 8
is high and PNP transistor Q7 is off.
However, if CO gas is detected, D5
becomes reverse biased as described
previously and so the 10µF capacitor
on pin 9 of IC1d charges via the 100kΩ
feedback resistor until it reaches the
upper threshold voltage (ie, 3.67V).
At this point, pin 8 switches low and
so Q7 turns on and lights LED 4 via a
470Ω resistor.
The 10µF capacitor now discharges via the 100kΩ feedback resistor
into pin 8 until it reaches the lower
threshold voltage (1.83V). When it
reaches this point, pin 8 goes high
again, Q7 turns off and the 10µF capacitor again starts charging towards
the upper threshold voltage. This cycle
continues indefinitely and so LED4
flashes at a 0.5Hz rate while ever CO
gas is present.
Latching comparator
IC1a is the latching comparator. Its
pin 1 output switches high when the
sensor output reaches half supply (ie,
2.25V), as set by the two 10kΩ bias
resistors on pin 2. This high output
in turn pulls pin 3 high via D2 and a
series 10kΩ resistor and so the comparator output is latched high, even if
the sensor output immediately drops
below 2.25V. This turns on Q4 which
in turn lights LED3 (alarm).
Note that when pin 3 of IC1a is
latched high, D1 is reverse biased.
This ensures that the high on pin 3
has no affect on the sensor output.
As soon as pin 1 of IC1a switches
high, D3 is also reverse biased and
so IC1b starts oscillating. This “tone
generator” stage works in exactly the
same way as the oscillator based on
IC1d, except that the timing components on its pin 6 input are much
smaller in value. As a result, IC1b
oscillates at about 3kHz.
IC1b drives Q5 & Q6 which together
function as a push-pull output stage.
In turn, these drive the piezo alarm
to provide the audible alarm. Note,
however, that the 3kHz alarm tone is
not continuous but is modulated by
IC1d. That’s because each time the
output of IC1d switches low, it also
pulls pin 6 of IC1b low via D4 and a
series 4.7kΩ resistor and thus disables
the tone generator. IC1d oscillates at
a 0.5Hz rate, which means that the
tone generator stage (IC1b) operates
in 1-second bursts.
The latching comparator can be
reset at any time by pressing the Reset
switch S2. This momentarily pulls
pin 3 of IC1a low via a 1µF capacitor. If the voltage from the CO sensor
is below the latching comparator
threshold, then the comparator output
stays low and the circuit reverts to
the monitoring status. If not, it will
go high again immediately after the
reset and retrigger the alarm.
Alternatively, if the Reset button
isn’t pressed, the latching comparator is automatically reset when the
“4” output (pin 10) of IC3 goes high
and switches on transistor Q8. This
occurs one minute into the sensing
period (ie, at the end of the fourth
minute).
As for a manual reset, the alarm is
immediately retriggered if the sensor
output is still above IC1a’s threshold
voltage; otherwise it resumes its monitoring role.
If the alarm immediately retriggers
after the automatic reset, it will con-
tinue to sound until IC3’s “4” output
switches high again 10 minutes later.
This means that the alarm will even
continue to sound during the next
heat purging period (unless, of course,
the reset button is pressed). When the
heat purging process starts, however,
Q3 turns on and so pin 14 of IC14 goes
low. As a result, oscillator IC1d is disabled which means that it no longer
drives LED 4 (via Q7) or modulates
the audible alarm.
Therefore, the audible alarm
switches from pulsed to continuous
tone when the heat purging cycle
begins. Pressing the Reset switch
will now turn the alarm off, since the
sensor output is effectively grounded
by Q3 and can no longer retrigger the
latching comparator.
Note that the heat purging process
does not start until six minutes after
the automatic reset has taken place.
That’s because IC3 is a decade counter
and it takes a further six minutes for
outputs “5-9” (not shown on the circuit) and then “0” to go high in turn.
Construction
Building the CO Alarm is easy since
virtually all the parts are mounted on
a single PC board coded 05303991
(117 x 102mm). Fig.3 shows the assembly details.
Before installing any of the parts,
carefully check your PC board for
etching defects by comparing it with
the published pattern. In particular,
check for shorted or broken tracks and
undrilled holes.
Begin the assembly by installing
the three wire links, then install PC
stakes at the external wiring points.
You will need 10 PC stakes in all –
four for the CO sensor leads, two for
the power supply connections, two
for switch S2 and two for the piezo
alarm.
Once the PC stakes are in, you can
install all the resistors. Table 2 shows
the resistor colour codes but it’s also
a good idea to check them using a
digital multimeter, just to make sure.
The three ICs can then be installed,
followed by the diodes and the zener
diode. Make sure that these semiconductor parts are correctly oriented.
Now for the transistors. Be careful
here, because there are three different types used and they all look the
same. In particular, be careful not to
confuse the BC327 and BC337 types
(one is a PNP transistor, the other an
Parts List
1 Nemoto NAP-11A
semiconductor type CO gas
detector
1 PC board, code 05303991,
117 x 102mm
1 front panel label, 133 x 27mm
1 small instrument case,
110 x 140 x 35mm (see text)
1 automotive lighter plug
1 piezo transducer
1 SPDT toggle switch (S1)
1 momentary contact switch (S2)
1 1m length red/black figure-8 wire
1 60mm length 0.8mm tinned
copper wire
1 80mm length yellow hookup wire
1 80mm length blue hookup wire
1 160mm length red hookup wire
1 cordgrip grommet
10 PC stakes
4 5mm LED bezels
Table
3: Capacitor
2 3mm
screws
and nuts Codes
4
small
self-tapping
screws to
[sb]Value IEC EIA
secure
PC
board
[sb]0.1uF 104 100n
[sb].015
153 15n
Semiconductors
1 LM324 quad op amp (IC1)
1 555 timer (IC2)
1 4017 divide-by-ten decoder
(IC3)
1 LM317T adjustable regulator
(REG1)
2 BC547 NPN transistors (Q1,Q8)
4 BC337 NPN transistors (Q2-Q5)
2 BC327 PNP transistors (Q6,Q7)
1 16V 1W zener diode (ZD1)
9 1N914, 1N4148 switching
diodes (D1-D9)
4 5mm red LEDs (LED1-LED4)
Capacitors
1 220µF 16VW PC electrolytic
2 100µF 16VW PC electrolytic
4 10µF 16VW PC electrolytic
1 1µF 16VW PC electrolytic
2 0.1µF MKT polyester
1 .015µF MKT polyester
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 330kΩ
1 220kΩ 1 150kΩ
3 100kΩ
1 33kΩ 19 10kΩ
2 4.7kΩ
1 3.9kΩ 1 2.2kΩ
2 1kΩ
5 470Ω 1 330Ω
1 180Ω
1 120Ω 1 10Ω
1 500Ω horizontal trimpot (VR1)
1 5kΩ horizontal trimpot (VR2)
Miscellaneous
Solder, etc
MAY 1999 67
Table 2: Resistor Colour Codes
No.
1
1
1
3
1
18
2
1
1
2
5
1
1
1
1
Value
330kΩ
220kΩ
150kΩ
100kΩ
33kΩ
10kΩ
4.7kΩ
3.9kΩ
2.2kΩ
1kΩ
470Ω
330Ω
180Ω
120Ω
10Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
orange orange yellow brown
red red yellow brown
brown green yellow brown
brown black yellow brown
orange orange orange brown
brown black orange brown
yellow violet red brown
orange white red brown
red red red brown
brown black red brown
yellow violet brown brown
orange orange brown brown
brown grey brown brown
brown red brown brown
brown black black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
orange orange black orange brown
red red black orange brown
brown green black orange brown
brown black black orange brown
orange orange black red brown
brown black black red brown
yellow violet black brown brown
orange white black brown brown
red red black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
yellow violet black black brown
orange orange black black brown
brown grey black black brown
brown red black black brown
brown black black gold brown
NPN type). Note that Q8 needs to be
bent over flat on the PC board to allow
room for the Reset switch.
Next, install the capacitors and
note that the electrolytic types must
be oriented correctly. Table 3 shows
the value codes for the MKT polyester
types.
Regulator REG1 has its leads bent at
right angles so that it can be mounted
with its metal face flat against the PC
board. Bend the leads as shown in
the photo, so that they mate with the
board mounting holes, then secure the
regulator to the board using a screw
and nut before soldering the leads. A
separate heatsink isn’t required for
REG1 – its metal tab allows sufficient
cooling.
The board assembly can now be
completed by installing VR1, VR2
and the four LEDs. Mount the LEDs
with a 20mm lead length so that they
can later be bent over and pushed
through the bezels fitted to the front
panel. Make sure that the LEDs are
correctly oriented – the anode lead
is the longer of the two. In particular,
note that LED4 is oriented differently
to LEDs 1-3.
Case
And here is the final assembly, looking from the rear. The round grey object on
the bottom left is the CO sensor, which could be mounted external to the case.
68 Silicon Chip
As previously discussed, the prototype CO Alarm was housed in a
low-profile instrument case measuring 110 x 140 x 35mm.
Whether or not you use this case is
up to you and your particular method of mounting. If you do, you will
Table 3: Capacitor Codes
Value
0.1µF
.015µF
IEC
104
153
EIA
100n
15n
have to drill four holes in the front
panel to take the switches, plus four
more to accept LED mounting bezels.
Another two holes are drilled in the
rear panel for the cordgrip grommet
and CO sensor.
First, the front panel. The best way
to go about this job is to attach the
label and then use this as a guide for
drilling the holes. Alternatively, you
can use the full-size artwork published with this article as a drilling
template.
Take care with the holes in the
rear panel – both the sensor and the
cordgrip grommet (for the 12V supply
leads) should be a tight fit. The best
way to make the sensor hole is to
first drill a small pilot hole and then
carefully enlarge it to size using a tapered reamer. The other hole should
be carefully profiled to suit the shape
of the cordgrip grommet.
The PC board can now be installed
in the case and secured using four
self-tapping screws. These go into the
integral standoffs in the base of the
case. This done, mount the switches
on the front panel, then slide the panel into its slot at the front of the case
and push the indicator LEDs through
their matching bevels.
All that remains now is to complete the wiring as shown in Fig.3.
Use automotive cable for the supply
leads and make sure these are firmly
secured to the rear panel using the
cordgrip grommet.
The CO sensor can be wired using
light-duty hookup wire, while switch
S2’s contacts solder directly to the PC
stakes adjacent to Q8.
We mounted the piezo transducer
on the lid of the case using hook and
Fig. 4: use this same-size PC board pattern to make your own board or to check
a commercial board for etching/drilling defects before commencing assembly.
loop fasteners but a dab of super
glue would also work. Finally, attach
a cigarette lighter plug to the 12V
supply lead.
Testing
You’re now ready for the smoke
test. Rotate VR1 fully anticlockwise,
apply power to the circuit and measure the voltage on the output (centre)
lead of REG1.
Adjust VR1 for a reading of 5.5VDC
and check that both LED1 and LED2
are now alight, indicating that power
is present and that the heating cycle
has begun.
If LED2 fails to light, try switching
the power off and then on again, to
activate the power-on reset for IC3. If
that fails, check the 5.5V rail on pin 4
of IC1, pin 8 of IC2 and pin 16 of IC3.
Assuming that all is well, wait for
two minutes and check that the Heat
LED (LED2) extinguishes. If you want
to check operation of the sensor, place
it near the exhaust pipe outlet of a
running engine. Both the CO warning
LED and the main alarm should be
activated after a short time.
Switch the power off and on again
if you want to initiate the heat purging sequence immediately. This will
also stop the main alarm if it has
latched on.
Installation
The CO alarm is installed inside
the vehicle and can be placed on
the dashboard. Note that if you are
already using the lighter socket for
some other purpose, you can obtain a
double lighter socket from automotive
retailers or from Jaycar.
VR2, the sensitivity control, should
initially be set to mid-position and this should suit
most applications.
If you want greater sensitivity, adjust VR2 anticlockwise. Conversely, to
decrease the sensitivity (eg,
if the unit generates lots of
nuisance alarms), adjust
This same-size front panel artwork can be copied and used directly and/or used as a
VR2 clockwise from its
drilling template for the front panel. Artworks for panels and PC boards are also
mid-position.
SC
available on the SILICON CHIP website, www.siliconchip.com.au
MAY 1999 69
MAILBAG
Replacing the loading
block in an Akai VP170
I noticed a story about the replacement of a broken loading block in an
Akai VP170 in “Serviceman’s Log” for
the January 1999 issue. I would like to
share with you a quicker method for
replacing the loading block:
(1) remove the front panel from the
unit;
(2) remove screws right and left to
remove upper plate, allowing access
to the cradle;
(3) unclip and remove the cradle;
(4) turn the loading motor spindle
in a forward direction until the arm
loading block is in the 45° position.
(5) unclip and remove the arm loading block, replace the faulty part and
reassemble.
With a little practice, this procedure
will take about five minutes.
T. Cairney,
Mt. Gravatt, Qld.
Modifications to
Anemometer
Thank you for producing a brilliant
project in the wind speed meter in the
March 1999 issue. I have constructed
it and it works very well. There were
some modifications I have made
which may be of interest to your
readers.
Living in a small town in North
Queensland has some disadvantages. When I asked the local bike shop
about secondhand alloy wheel hubs
they looked at me with a blank stare
and said no! You can only buy them
new and attached to the rest of the
wheel at a cost of about $150. Strike
one wheel hub as a bearing assembly.
A rummage around in the junk
bin uncovered a failed video head
assembly with upper and lower drum
complete. This has to be the best thing
to use as it is entirely made of alloy
and stainless steel. After removing the
drive magnet and circuit board, the
heads and attached PC board and the
inner rotary transformer, it was clear
it would work perfectly. By attaching
the lower half to a piece of poly cutting
board and attaching the arm assembly
to the upper head assembly, the thing
spun quite freely.
70 Silicon Chip
To waterproof the whole lot I used a
lid from a spray can. It fits snugly over
the head assembly without touching
the sides. The bottom of the lid needed
to be trimmed to size but once fitted
no water will come up. A little silastic
was applied to stop water entering
holes in the head assembly. Where the
shaft protruded from the poly board
again I used a lid from a spray can and
applied silastic underneath.
Your article said that 10 metres of
cable from the computer to the sensor
was OK. I have mine working with
about 20 metres of cable and haven’t
experienced any problems. I also used
a different computer; mine came from
Oatley Electronics. It seemed a better
choice as it gives more readings; ie,
average wind speed and maximum
wind speed.
Colin Leonelli,
Ingham, Qld.
HTML files
are a pest
I read your Publisher’s Letter regarding email in the February 1999
edition with great interest. Yes, indeed, there are a lot of people out
there who make it difficult for us to
read the email they send. The one you
forgot to mention is the person whose
message is in HTML format littered
with formatting commands that make
it almost impossible to find the text
in the middle of it.
But sometimes the boot is on the
other foot, especially with the way
people answer their email. You tell us
how the answer to a message may not
be immediately available (“it might
not get answered for a week or two”)
but is the sender advised that there
may be a delay? Most people just hold
onto the message until it can be answered but give no indication whether
it was received or lost in transit.
Back in the “Good Old Days”,
there were a lot of practices which
were designed to keep the wheels
of communication oiled and rolling
smoothly. One of these was to always
post out a note that “Your message has
been received at this office” as soon
as possible after the message arrived
when it looked as though an answer
could not be given right away.
Of course this meant the sending of
two replies and this practice ceased
at about the same time that people
stopped mail
ing out a receipt for
payments by mail, when the cost of a
stamp was considered more valuable
than customer relations. But in these
days of email, when the cost of sending a reply is no more than the time
to write it, perhaps it is time to revive
the practice.
G. Mayman,
Dover Gardens, SA (via email).
Comment: good point. We are now
answering most email within a day or
two but where there will be a longer
delay we are giving immediate ac‑
knowledgement.
High voltage
diodes get hot
In the “Serviceman’s Log” story on a
Masuda T092 in the April 1999 issue,
you refer to the amazing heat from a
1000V FR607 rectifier, used to replace
a 600V FR605.
The reason is that the higher the
voltage, the thicker the “intrinsic” layer in a high-voltage rectifier, and the
slower the recovery time. Listings in
a Diodes Incorporated catalog suggest
that at the lower voltages in the FR60X
family, this will be 150ns, rising to
250ns at 600V and 500ns at 800V (this
particular company apparently does
not make the 1000V FR607, which
might be slower still). In other words,
things can get bad rather quickly as
the top voltage of a particular process
is approached.
A horizontal circuit is (in part) a
switching supply and a slower recovery time means more heat. For example, an ordinary 6A 600V rectifier put
into the circuit would probably short
circuit instantly and take several other
components with it. Note that switching-recovery dissipation is in part a
function of voltage and frequency, not
current alone, so paralleling diodes
does not necessarily cut the heat per
diode in half.
Since the original diode blew out,
it is possible it did not have a high
enough voltage rating. So using a
higher voltage part may well not have
been a mistake. But extra heat would
not be surprising; the recovery time
may well be three times as long as
with the original diode.
There are other diode processes,
such as “FRED”, that offer faster
recovery times at high currents and
voltages. The DigiKey catalog lists
some Ixys devices at 8-12A and 35ns
at 600V and 50ns at 1000V. (These
families are faster than the FR60X
but within a given family, the highest
voltage ones still recover more slowly.) Of course, these are newer parts
and come only in TO-220 and TO-247
packages (which have a large metal tab
or pad at the potential of one of the
leads) and not the cylindrical package,
so depending on board layout, it might
or might not be safe to use them.
Paul Schick,
Madison, WI, USA.
Alternator speed
& frequency
With reference to the letter from
Mr K. Russell of Willaston, SA, in the
March 1999 issue concerning alternator speed and frequency, I would like
to provide the following information.
I am no expert in the Vestas system
but it is my understanding that the
Vestas wind turbines are induction
alternators (asynchronous machines).
An induction alternator is basically
an induction motor that is driven
above its synchronous speed. The
power output curve of an induction
machine reaches a maximum for rotational power out (ie, motor mode)
at a speed approximately 1-5% below
its synchronous speed. At around
1-5% above synchronous speed, the
electrical output (ie, generator mode)
will be a maximum.
Based on the information provided
in your article, the Vestas machines
are 4-pole machines which provides
a synchronous speed of 1500rpm with
Australia’s 50Hz system. The operating range is 1500-1560 RPM which is
0-4% above synchronous speed.
As a related issue, induction machines require an input of reactive
power to produce an electrical output
and cannot therefore provide nett reactive power to the electrical network,
as can the synchronous machines that
are employed in most large power
stations. Any electrical machine can
be used as a generator by driving the
shaft that is normally driven in motor
mode.
In the case of an induction motor
used in isolation from the electricity
grid, an alternative source of reactive
power is required. This is often provided by means of capacitors, similar
to those used by electricity distribution companies to provide for system
voltage control.
A final point concerning Mr Russell’s comments about your graphs.
Mr Russell has assumed that there is
a linear relationship between wind
speed, generator rotational speed and
power output. This is not the case
and in fact the power available from
the wind varies in proportion to the
cube of the wind speed. Therefore
the graphs will not “superimpose”
unless the vertical scales are changed
to reflect this non-linear relationship
between the quantities.
Andrew Russack,
Highgate, SA.
More on
AC alternators
In response to your correspondents’
letters in the March 1999 issue, regarding AC alternators’ speed and their
relationship to generated frequency,
I take this opportunity to clarify the
differences between synchronous
and asynchronous generators. A
standard synchronous alternator’s
rotor has fixed magnetic poles that
are “locked” into synchronism with
the supply frequency. It would appear
that the “alternators” mentioned in
the Wind Power article in the January
1999 issue are not of the synchronous
type but are “induction generators”.
These are no more than AC induction
motors whose rotors run at a speed
in excess of synchronous speed (the
speed governed by the frequency of
the supply grid).
A standard induction motor’s rotor
normally runs at a few percent less
than synchronous speed (the speed
difference known as slip) to enable
the rotor windings to cut the stator’s
field and produce the required rotor
current needed to produce torque. In
doing so, a motor consumes electrical
energy from the supply.
If the same rotor has its speed
increased to synchronous speed (by
some external mechanical means),
the energy flow stops since the rotor
windings no longer cut the stator field
at “zero slip”. It follows then that if
the rotor speed is increased further,
a “negative slip” condition exists
and the energy flow is reversed. The
machine now generates back into the
grid system (the mechanical energy is
being converted to electrical energy).
Thus the critical speed/frequency/
poles relationship does not apply.
The beauty of the induction generator is that it does not require initial
synchronising to the grid; it is merely
a matter of running up to a speed
slightly greater than synchronous
speed and closing the supply circuit
switch. There is, however, one main
drawback in that the supply must normally (but not necessarily) be available for the machine to close on to,
since an induction generator usually
derives its field from the running grid.
Todd’s Corner Power Station in
Tasmania’s central highlands operates
in this manner.
T. Ives, Penguin,
Tasmania.
Bass cube rear panel
should not be glued
I have read the article on the Bass
Cube in the April 1999 issue and congratulate you on what appears to be an
excellent project for the home audio
market. However, I have one question
which I can not answer.
The article appears to say that the
only access to service the driver is
glued into the box (last paragraph on
page 43). Looking at the photographs
the driver appears to be mounted inside the box. I have been in the audio
industry for many years, servicing all
types of amps and speakers, including
re-coning brands of speakers such as
Altec Lansing, JBL, Electro-Voice,
Klipsch, Cerwin Vega, Wharfdale, etc.
I have never seen a box where it is
virtually impossible to remove the
speaker for service (well, almost never
– some Bose units have the speakers
glued into the box with hot melt
glue!). Your article states that the manufacturer may not honour the speaker
warranty if the wires are soldered to
the speaker (strange!) but if the speaker can not be removed from the box, I
continued on page 77
MAY 1999 71
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72 Silicon Chip
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MAY 1999 73
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions from
readers are welcome and will be paid for at standard rates.
Add bass harmony
to a guitar
This circuit was developed for
use with a guitar although other instruments or sound sources could be
used. The circuit divides the input
frequency and produces an output that
consists of the original input signal
plus sub-harmonics at one and two
octaves below.
In essence, the input signal is amplified by op amps IC1a and IC1b and
the resulting clipped signal is used to
clock IC7, a 4024 7-stage binary counter. Subharmonic outputs are then
taken from the Q1 and Q2 outputs of
IC7 and fed via pots VR1 and VR2 to a
mixer stage employing IC2a, followed
74 Silicon Chip
by a low-pass filter stage comprising
IC2b.
The composite filtered sub-harmonic signal is then fed to a 3080
transconductance amplifier which automatically controls the gain according
to the signal amplitude at the input.
Note that the input signal is also fed
to IC5, a 741 op amp which feeds a
rectifier consisting of diodes D1 and
D2, together with two 1µF capacitors.
This rectifier feeds the control input
on the 3080.
The signal from the 3080 is buffered
by IC4 and then mixed with the input
signal in IC6. The bypass switch S1
allows the effect to be switched in
and out.
Setting up requires a little trial and
error to find the correct setting for
VR3 which sets the voltage gain. Start
by setting it midway and then adjust
it so that the low bass notes are not
clipped or sound distorted but are
sufficiently loud.
The circuit runs on a single 9V battery and draws around 5mA.
S. Williamson,
Hamilton, NZ. ($40)
Add remote control
to an old VCR
Yes, it is possible to add infrared
remote control to any old VCR which
has a two-wire remote control. To do
it, you need to use this simple circuit
together with the 8-channel IR remote
control described in the February 1996
issue of SILICON CHIP. No modification
is required to the VCR itself.
As described in the February 1996
article, the IR receiver circuit has
eight outputs, A to H. The first six are
momentary, while the other two are
latched outputs.
Table 1 (under the circuit) shows
the functions provided by a selection
of VCR models, together with the resistance values needed to select each
function. On the circuit, resistors R1
to R8 must be chosen from this table
to suit the type of VCR.
The switching is done using each
gate of a 4066 analog switch (IC1 &
IC2). Fortu
nately, the nominal 90Ω
on-resistance of these gates is low
enough not to be a problem for the
VCR models shown.
Outputs A, B, C, D and F directly
drive the control inputs of IC1 and
IC2b respectively. Output E (used for
the record function) drives switch IC2a
via an RC delay circuit. This means
line E has to stay high for about two
seconds before IC2a will switch on.
This ensures that the Record mode
cannot be accidentally activated.
The latched outputs G and H have
been used to control the Channel Up
and Channel Down VCR functions
but these needed a little modification
to make them useful. Exclusive-OR
gates IC3a and IC3b are configured as
edge-detectors to provide a short positive-going pulse in response to each
press of the corresponding button on
the transmitter. Each pulse momentarily closes the corresponding CMOS
switch (IC2c or IC2d) to activate Ch.Up
or Ch.Dn. Note that some early VCRs
did not have remote channel-changing
ability.
Power for the circuit comes from the
IR receiver PC board (from the emitter
of Q2), giving a nominal supply rail
of 5.6V.
Chris Dunn,
Nowra, NSW. ($50)
MAY 1999 75
Silicon Chip
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Circuit Notebook – continued
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Low frequency
RF preamplifier
This low frequency RF preamplifier circuit is designed to be
connected between a long wire
antenna and a low frequency
receiver. It was designed for listening to low frequency airport
beacons and amateur radio low
frequency signals.
There is only one control to
adjust and that is variable capacitor C1 which provides a series
resonant circuit with the antenna
at the required frequency.
Simpler metering circuit
for capacitance meter
The Capacitance Meter published
in the February 1999 of SILICON CHIP
can be simplified with the release of
a new LCD panel meter from Altron
ics in Perth.
This new panel meter has the
advantage that it can share a com-
When listening for amateur
radio signals, usually Morse
code, 181.4kHz New Zealand or
176.5kHz Tasmania, the antenna
needs to be a few hundred metres
long and about half a metre above
the ground, facing end-on to the
incoming signal.
Q1 and Q2 can be regarded as
a cascode stage with the output
being taken from the collector of
Q2. Further gain is provided by
Q3 which is then buffered by the
emitter follower stage, Q4.
R. Milne, Moonah,
Tasmania. ($25)
mon ground with the circuit it is
measuring. This means that the
level-shifting op amp (IC3) in the
original ca
pacitance meter circuit
can be dispensed with. The simplified circuit is shown here and can be
wired up on the original PC board.
The new Altronics panel meter retails for $25 (Cat Q-0570).
SILICON CHIP
Circuit Ideas Wanted
Do you have a good circuit idea. If so, why not sketch it out, write a brief
description of its operation & send it to us. Provided your idea is workable &
original, we’ll publish it in Circuit Notebook & you’ll make some money. We
pay up to $60 for a good circuit but don’t make it too big please. Send your
idea to: Silicon Chip Publications, PO Box 139, Collaroy, 2097.
Mailbag: continued
from page 71
guess it doesn’t matter how you connect the wires.
Forgive me if I have missed something in the arti
cle. I understand
that the box has to be airtight but if I
haven’t, some form of rebate or front
mounting of the driver is a more practical idea if it develops a fault.
Brad Sheargold,
Collaroy, NSW.
Comment: You are right. The rear
panel should not be glued into place
although some form of sealant should
be applied before it is screwed down.
PIC programmer
feedback
I have some feedback regarding
the PIC programmer described in the
March 1999 issue. I don’t know if anyone else has had any problems with
theirs but when running the sample
program that I obtained from the Oatley website, two LEDs were cycled
instead of one. This was puzzling until
I realised that the carry bit from the
STATUS register was carrying over,
so to speak, at the “rlf” command.
Execution of the command “bcf STATUS,7” clears bit 7 of the STATUS
register prior to rotating the bits left
and apparently fixes the problem.
Also, when starting the NOPPP
program, the message, “Hardware not
found” occurs although the programmer appears to func
tion perfectly.
Has anyone else had this message?
Is it a soft
ware or hardware fault?
Some feedback would be appreciated.
Some tutorial articles examining the
functions of the PIC16F84 and simple
example code would be of great value
to many of your readers.
Kerry Helman (via email).
Converting LCD calculators
to 7-segment display
Can anyone advise me how the
output of LCD calculators can be converted to run 7-segment LED displays?
Obviously a separate power supply
and LED display would be required
and I am prepared to locate in a separate enclosure. Any assistance that
your readers may be able to give would
be much appreciated.
B. Allardice,
Cunnamulla, Qld.
MAY 1999 77
Silicon Chip
Back Issues
December 1991: TV Transmitter For VCRs With UHF Modulators;
Infrared Light Beam Relay; Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.2; Index
To Volume 4.
January 1992: 4-Channel Guitar Mixer; Adjustable 0-45V 8A Power
Supply, Pt.1; Baby Room Monitor/FM Transmitter; Experiments For
Your Games Card.
March 1992: TV Transmitter For VHF VCRs; Thermostatic Switch For
Car Radiator Fans; Coping With Damaged Computer Directories; Guide
Valve Substitution In Vintage Radios.
September 1988: Hands-Free Speakerphone; Electronic Fish Bite
Detector; High Performance AC Millivoltmeter, Pt.2; Build The
Vader Voice.
October 1990: The Dangers of PCBs; Low-Cost Siren For Burglar
Alarms; Dimming Controls For The Discolight; Surfsound Simulator;
DC Offset For DMMs; NE602 Converter Circuits.
April 1989: Auxiliary Brake Light Flasher; What You Need to Know
About Capacitors; 32-Band Graphic Equaliser, Pt.2; The Story Of
Amtrak Passenger Services.
November 1990: How To Connect Two TV Sets To One VCR;
Build An Egg Timer; Low-Cost Model Train Controller; 1.5V To
9V DC Converter; Introduction To Digital Electronics; Build A
Simple 6-Metre Amateur Band Transmitter.
May 1989: Build A Synthesised Tom-Tom; Biofeedback Monitor For
Your PC; Simple Stub Filter For Suppressing TV Interference; The
Burlington Northern Railroad.
July 1989: Exhaust Gas Monitor; Experimental Mains Hum Sniffers;
Compact Ultrasonic Car Alarm; The NSW 86 Class Electrics.
December 1990: The CD Green Pen Controversy; 100W DC-DC
Converter For Car Amplifiers; Wiper Pulser For Rear Windows;
4-Digit Combination Lock; 5W Power Amplifier For The 6-Metre
Amateur Transmitter; Index To Volume 3.
September 1989: 2-Chip Portable AM Stereo Radio (Uses MC13024
and TX7376P) Pt.1; High Or Low Fluid Level Detector; Studio Series
20-Band Stereo Equaliser, Pt.2.
January 1991: Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries, Pt.1; Have Fun
With The Fruit Machine; Two-Tone Alarm Module; LCD Readout
For The Capacitance Meter; How Quartz Crystals Work; The
Dangers of Servicing Microwave Ovens.
October 1989: FM Radio Intercom For Motorbikes Pt.1; GaAsFet
Preamplifier For Amateur TV; 2-Chip Portable AM Stereo Radio, Pt.2;
A Look At Australian Monorails.
February 1991: Synthesised Stereo AM Tuner, Pt.1; Three
Low-Cost Inverters For Fluorescent Lights; Low-Cost Sinewave
Oscillator; Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries, Pt.2; How To Design
Amplifier Output Stages.
November 1989: Radfax Decoder For Your PC (Displays Fax, RTTY
& Morse); FM Radio Intercom For Motorbikes, Pt.2; 2-Chip Portable
AM Stereo Radio, Pt.3; Floppy Disc Drive Formats & Options; The
Pilbara Iron Ore Railways.
January 1990: High Quality Sine/Square Oscillator; Service Tips For
Your VCR; Phone Patch For Radio Amateurs; Active Antenna Kit;
Designing UHF Transmitter Stages.
February 1990: A 16-Channel Mixing Desk; Build A High Quality
Audio Oscillator, Pt.2; The Incredible Hot Canaries; Random Wire
Antenna Tuner For 6 Metres; Phone Patch For Radio Amateurs, Pt.2.
March 1990: Delay Unit For Automatic Antennas; Workout Timer For
Aerobics Classes; 16-Channel Mixing Desk, Pt.2; Using The UC3906
SLA Battery Charger IC; The Australian VFT Project.
April 1990: Dual Tracking ±50V Power Supply; Voice-Operated Switch
(VOX) With Delayed Audio; 16-Channel Mixing Desk, Pt.3; Active CW
Filter; Servicing Your Microwave Oven.
June 1990: Multi-Sector Home Burglar Alarm; Build A Low-Noise
Universal Stereo Preamplifier; Load Protector For Power Supplies;
Speed Alarm For Your Car.
July 1990: Digital Sine/Square Generator, Pt.1 (covers 0-500kHz);
Burglar Alarm Keypad & Combination Lock; Build A Simple Elec‑
tronic Die; A Low-Cost Dual Power Supply; Inside A Coal Burning
Power Station.
August 1990: High Stability UHF Remote Transmitter; Universal
Safety Timer For Mains Appliances (9 Minutes); Horace The Electronic
Cricket; Digital Sine/Square Generator, Pt.2.
September 1990: A Low-Cost 3-Digit Counter Module; Build A Simple
Shortwave Converter For The 2-Metre Band; The Bose Lifestyle Music
System (Review); The Care & Feeding Of Nicad Battery Packs (Getting
The Most From Nicad Batteries).
March 1991: Remote Controller For Garage Doors, Pt.1;
Transistor Beta Tester Mk.2; A Synthesised AM Stereo Tuner,
Pt.2; Multi-Purpose I/O Board For PC-Compatibles; Universal
Wideband RF Preamplifier For Amateur Radio & TV.
April 1991: Steam Sound Simulator For Model Railroads;
Remote Controller For Garage Doors, Pt.2; Simple 12/24V
Light Chaser; Synthesised AM Stereo Tuner, Pt.3; A Practical
Approach To Amplifier Design, Pt.2.
May 1991: 13.5V 25A Power Supply For Transceivers; Stereo
Audio Expander; Fluorescent Light Simulator For Model Rail‑
ways; How To Install Multiple TV Outlets, Pt.1.
June 1991: A Corner Reflector Antenna For UHF TV; Build A
4-Channel Lighting Desk, Pt.1; 13.5V 25A Power Supply For
Transceivers, Pt.2; Active Filter For CW Reception; Tuning In
To Satellite TV, Pt.1.
July 1991: Loudspeaker Protector For Stereo Amplifiers;
4-Channel Lighting Desk, Pt.2; How To Install Multiple TV
Outlets, Pt.2; Tuning In To Satellite TV, Pt.2.
September 1991: Digital Altimeter For Gliders & Ultralights;
Ultrasonic Switch For Mains Appliances; The Basics Of A/D
& D/A Conversion; Plotting The Course Of Thunderstorms.
October 1991: Build A Talking Voltmeter For Your PC, Pt.1;
SteamSound Simulator For Model Railways Mk.II; Magnetic
Field Strength Meter; Digital Altimeter For Gliders, Pt.2; Military
Applications Of R/C Aircraft.
November 1991: Build A Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.1;
A Junkbox 2-Valve Receiver; Flashing Alarm Light For Cars;
Digital Altimeter For Gliders, Pt.3; Build A Talking Voltmeter
For Your PC, Pt.2; Build a Turnstile Antenna For Weather
Satellite Reception.
April 1992: IR Remote Control For Model Railroads; Differential Input
Buffer For CROs; Understanding Computer Memory; Aligning Vintage
Radio Receivers, Pt.1.
May 1992: Build A Telephone Intercom; Electronic Doorbell; Battery
Eliminator For Personal Players; Infrared Remote Control For Model
Railroads, Pt.2; Aligning Vintage Radio Receivers, Pt.2.
June 1992: Multi-Station Headset Intercom, Pt.1; Video Switcher For
Camcorders & VCRs; IR Remote Control For Model Railroads, Pt.3;
15-Watt 12-240V Inverter; A Look At Hard Disc Drives.
August 1992: Automatic SLA Battery Charger; Miniature 1.5V To 9V
DC Converter; 1kW Dummy Load Box For Audio Amplifiers; Trou‑
bleshooting Vintage Radio Receivers; The MIDI Interface Explained.
October 1992: 2kW 24VDC - 240VAC Sinewave Inverter; Multi-Sector
Home Burglar Alarm, Pt.2; Mini Amplifier For Personal Stereos; A
Regulated Lead-Acid Battery Charger.
January 1993: Flea-Power AM Radio Transmitter; High Intensity LED
Flasher For Bicycles; 2kW 24VDC To 240VAC Sinewave Inverter, Pt.4;
Speed Controller For Electric Models, Pt.3.
February 1993: Three Projects For Model Railroads; Low Fuel Indicator
For Cars; Audio Level/VU Meter (LED Readout); An Electronic Cock‑
roach; 2kW 24VDC To 240VAC Sinewave Inverter, Pt.5.
March 1993: Solar Charger For 12V Batteries; Alarm-Triggered Security
Camera; Reaction Trainer; Audio Mixer for Camcorders; A 24-Hour
Sidereal Clock For Astronomers.
April 1993: Solar-Powered Electric Fence; Audio Power Meter;
Three-Function Home Weather Station; 12VDC To 70VDC Converter;
Digital Clock With Battery Back-Up.
May 1993: Nicad Cell Discharger; Build The Woofer Stopper; Alphanu‑
meric LCD Demonstration Board; The Story of Aluminium.
June 1993: AM Radio Trainer, Pt.1; Remote Control For The Woofer
Stopper; Digital Voltmeter For Cars; Build A Windows-Based Logic
Analyser.
July 1993: Single Chip Message Recorder; Light Beam Relay
Extender; AM Radio Trainer, Pt.2; Quiz Game Adjudicator; Win‑
dows-Based Logic Analyser, Pt.2; Antenna Tuners – Why They Are
Useful.
August 1993: Low-Cost Colour Video Fader; 60-LED Brake Light Array;
Microprocessor-Based Sidereal Clock; Southern Cross Z80-Based
Computer; A Look At Satellites & Their Orbits.
September 1993: Automatic Nicad Battery Charger/Discharger; Stereo
Preamplifier With IR Remote Control, Pt.1; In-Circuit Transistor Tester;
+5V to ±15V DC Converter; Remote-Controlled Cockroach.
October 1993: Courtesy Light Switch-Off Timer For Cars; Wireless
Microphone For Musicians; Stereo Preamplifier With IR Remote
Control, Pt.2; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.1.
November 1993: High Efficiency Inverter For Fluorescent Tubes; Stereo
Preamplifier With IR Remote Control, Pt.3; Siren Sound Generator;
Engine Management, Pt.2; Experiments For Games Cards.
ORDER FORM
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Detach and mail to:
Silicon Chip Publications, PO Box 139,
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Suburb/town _______________________________ Postcode ___________
Or call (02) 9979 5644 & quote your credit card
details or fax the details to (02) 9979 6503.
PLEASE PRINT
78 Silicon Chip
✂
Card No.
December 1993: Remote Controller For Garage Doors; Build A
LED Stroboscope; Build A 25W Audio Amplifier Module; A 1-Chip
Melody Generator; Engine Management, Pt.3; Index To Volume 6.
January 1994: 3A 40V Adjustable Power Supply; Switching
Regulator For Solar Panels; Printer Status Indicator; Mini Drill
Speed Controller; Stepper Motor Controller; Active Filter Design;
Engine Management, Pt.4.
February 1994: Build A 90-Second Message Recorder; 12-240VAC
200W Inverter; 0.5W Audio Amplifier; 3A 40V Adjustable Power
Supply; Engine Management, Pt.5; Airbags In Cars – A Look At
How They Work.
March 1994: Intelligent IR Remote Controller; 50W (LM3876) Audio
Amplifier Module; Level Crossing Detector For Model Railways;
Voice Activated Switch For FM Microphones; Simple LED Chaser;
Engine Management, Pt.6.
April 1994: Sound & Lights For Model Railway Level Crossings;
Discrete Dual Supply Voltage Regulator; Universal Stereo Pre‑
amplifier; Digital Water Tank Gauge; Engine Management, Pt.7.
May 1994: Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries; Induction Balance
Metal Locator; Multi-Channel Infrared Remote Control; Dual Elec‑
tronic Dice; Simple Servo Driver Circuits; Engine Management, Pt.8.
June 1994: 200W/350W Mosfet Amplifier Module; A Coolant Level
Alarm For Your Car; 80-Metre AM/CW Transmitter For Amateurs;
Converting Phono Inputs To Line Inputs; PC-Based Nicad Battery
Monitor; Engine Management, Pt.9.
July 1994: Build A 4-Bay Bow-Tie UHF Antenna; PreChamp
2-Transistor Preamplifier; Steam Train Whistle & Diesel Horn
Simulator; Portable 6V SLA Battery Charger; Electronic Engine
Management, Pt.10.
August 1994: High-Power Dimmer For Incandescent Lights;
Microprocessor-Controlled Morse Keyer; Dual Diversity Tuner For
FM Microphones, Pt.1; Nicad Zapper; Engine Management, Pt.11.
September 1994: Automatic Discharger For Nicad Battery Packs;
MiniVox Voice Operated Relay; Image Intensified Night Viewer;
AM Radio For Weather Beacons; Dual Diversity Tuner For FM
Microphones, Pt.2; Engine Management, Pt.12.
October 1994: How Dolby Surround Sound Works; Dual Rail
Variable Power Supply; Build A Talking Headlight Reminder;
Electronic Ballast For Fluorescent Lights; Build A Temperature
Controlled Soldering Station; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.13.
November 1994: Dry Cell Battery Rejuvenator; Novel Alphanumeric
Clock; 80-Metre DSB Amateur Transmitter; Twin-Cell Nicad Dis‑
charger (See May 1993); How To Plot Patterns Direct to PC Boards.
December 1994: Dolby Pro-Logic Surround Sound Decoder,
Pt.1; Easy-To-Build Car Burglar Alarm; Three-Spot Low Distortion
Sinewave Oscillator; Clifford – A Pesky Electronic Cricket; Remote
Control System for Models, Pt.1; Index to Vol.7.
December 1995: Engine Immobiliser; 5-Band Equaliser; CB Trans‑
verter For The 80M Amateur Band, Pt.2; Subwoofer Controller;
Dolby Pro Logic Surround Sound Decoder Mk.2, Pt.2; Knock
Sensing In Cars; Index To Volume 8.
January 1996: Surround Sound Mixer & Decoder, Pt.1; Magnetic
Card Reader; Build An Automatic Sprinkler Controller; IR Remote
Control For The Railpower Mk.2; Recharging Nicad Batteries
For Long Life.
December 1997: A Heart Transplant For An Aging Computer;
Build A Speed Alarm For Your Car; Two-Axis Robot With Gripper;
Loudness Control For Car Hifi Systems; Stepper Motor Driver
With Onboard Buffer; Power Supply For Stepper Motor Cards;
Understanding Electric Lighting Pt.2; Index To Volume 10.
March 1996: Programmable Electronic Ignition System; Zener
Diode Tester For DMMs; Automatic Level Control For PA Systems;
20ms Delay For Surround Sound Decoders; Multi-Channel Radio
Control Transmitter; Pt.2; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.1.
January 1998: Build Your Own 4-Channel Lightshow, Pt.1 (runs
off 12VDC or 12VAC); Command Control System For Model
Railways, Pt.1; Pan Controller For CCD Cameras; Build A One
Or Two-Lamp Flasher; Understanding Electric Lighting, Pt.3.
April 1996: Cheap Battery Refills For Mobile Telephones; 125W
Audio Power Amplifier Module; Knock Indicator For Leaded Petrol
Engines; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter; Pt.3; Cathode
Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.2.
February 1998: Hot Web Sites For Surplus Bits; Multi-Purpose
Fast Battery Charger, Pt.1; Telephone Exchange Simulator For
Testing; Command Control System For Model Railways, Pt.2;
Demonstration Board For Liquid Crystal Displays; Build Your Own
4-Channel Lightshow, Pt.2; Understanding Electric Lighting, Pt.4.
May 1996: Upgrading The CPU In Your PC; High Voltage Insulation
Tester; Knightrider Bi-Directional LED Chaser; Simple Duplex
Intercom Using Fibre Optic Cable; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.3.
June 1996: BassBox CAD Loudspeaker Software Reviewed; Stereo
Simulator (uses delay chip); Rope Light Chaser; Low Ohms Tester
For Your DMM; Automatic 10A Battery Charger.
July 1996: Installing a Dual Boot Windows System On Your PC;
Build A VGA Digital Oscilloscope, Pt.1; Remote Control Extender
For VCRs; 2A SLA Battery Charger; 3-Band Parametric Equaliser;
Single Channel 8-bit Data Logger.
August 1996: Electronics on the Internet; Customising the
Windows Desktop; Introduction to IGBTs; Electronic Starter For
Fluorescent Lamps; VGA Oscilloscope, Pt.2; 350W Amplifier
Module; Masthead Amplifier For TV & FM; Cathode Ray Oscil‑
loscopes, Pt.4.
September 1996: VGA Oscilloscope, Pt.3; IR Stereo Headphone
Link, Pt.1; High Quality PA Loudspeaker; 3-Band HF Amateur
Radio Receiver; Feedback On Prog rammable Ignition (see March
1996); Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.5.
October 1996: Send Video Signals Over Twisted Pair Cable; Power
Control With A Light Dimmer; 600W DC-DC Converter For Car Hifi
Systems, Pt.1; IR Stereo Headphone Link, Pt.2; Build A Multi-Media
Sound System, Pt.1; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter, Pt.8.
November 1996: Adding A Parallel Port To Your Computer; 8-Chan‑
nel Stereo Mixer, Pt.1; Low-Cost Fluorescent Light Inverter; How
To Repair Domestic Light Dimmers; Build A Multi-Media Sound
System, Pt.2; 600W DC-DC Converter For Car Hifi Systems, Pt.2.
January 1995: Sun Tracker For Solar Panels; Battery Saver For
Torches; Dolby Pro-Logic Surround Sound Decoder, Pt.2; Dual
Channel UHF Remote Control; Stereo Microphone Preamplifier.
February 1995: 50-Watt/Channel Stereo Amplifier Module; Digital
Effects Unit For Musicians; 6-Channel Thermometer With LCD
Readout; Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers, Pt.1; Oil Change
Timer For Cars; Remote Control System For Models, Pt.2.
January 1997: How To Network Your PC; Control Panel For Multiple
Smoke Alarms, Pt.1; Build A Pink Noise Source (For Sound Level
Meter Calibration); Computer Controlled Dual Power Supply, Pt.1;
Digi-Temp Monitors Eight Temperatures.
March 1995: 50 Watt Per Channel Stereo Amplifier, Pt.1; Subcarrier
Decoder For FM Receivers; Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers,
Pt.2; IR Illuminator For CCD Cameras; Remote Control System For
Models, Pt.3; Simple CW Filter.
February 1997: Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.6; PC-Controlled
Moving Message Display; Computer Controlled Dual Power Supply,
Pt.2; Alert-A-Phone Loud Sounding Alarm; Control Panel For
Multiple Smoke Alarms, Pt.2.
April 1995: FM Radio Trainer, Pt.1; Photographic Timer For Dark
rooms; Balanced Microphone Preamp. & Line Filter; 50W/Channel
Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2; Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers,
Pt.3; 8-Channel Decoder For Radio Remote Control.
March 1997: Driving A Computer By Remote Control; Plastic Power
PA Amplifier (175W); Signalling & Lighting For Model Railways;
Build A Jumbo LED Clock; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.7.
June 1995: Build A Satellite TV Receiver; Train Detector For Model
Railways; 1W Audio Amplifier Trainer; Low-Cost Video Security
System; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter For Models, Pt.1;
Build A $30 Digital Multimeter.
July 1995: Electric Fence Controller; How To Run Two Trains On
A Single Track (Incl. Lights & Sound); Setting Up A Satellite TV
Ground Station; Build A Reliable Door Minder.
August 1995: Fuel Injector Monitor For Cars; Gain Controlled
Microphone Preamp; Audio Lab PC-Controlled Test Instrument,
Pt.1; Mighty-Mite Powered Loudspeaker; How To Identify IDE
Hard Disc Drive Parameters.
November 1997: Heavy Duty 10A 240VAC Motor Speed Control‑
ler; Easy-To-Use Cable & Wiring Tester; Build A Musical Door‑
bell; Relocating Your CD-ROM Drive; Replacing Foam Speaker
Surrounds; Understanding Electric Lighting Pt.1.
February 1996: Three Remote Controls To Build; Woofer Stopper
Mk.2; 10-Minute Kill Switch For Smoke Detectors; Basic Logic
Trainer; Surround Sound Mixer & Decoder, Pt.2; Use your PC As
A Reaction Timer.
December 1996: CD Recorders – The Next Add-On For Your PC;
Active Filter Cleans Up CW Reception; Fast Clock For Railway
Modellers; Laser Pistol & Electronic Target; Build A Sound Level
Meter; 8-Channel Stereo Mixer, Pt.2; Index To Volume 9.
May 1995: What To Do When the Battery On Your PC’s Mother
board Goes Flat; Build A Guitar Headphone Amplifier; FM Radio
Trainer, Pt.2; Transistor/Mosfet Tester For DMMs; A 16-Channel
Decoder For Radio Remote Control; Introduction to Satellite TV.
October 1997: Build A 5-Digit Tachometer; Add Central Locking
To Your Car; PC-Controlled 6-Channel Voltmeter; 500W Audio
Power Amplifier, Pt.3; Customising The Windows 95 Start Menu.
April 1997: Avoiding Win95 Hassles With Motherboard Upgrades;
Simple Timer With No ICs; Digital Voltmeter For Cars; Loudspeaker
Protector For Stereo Amplifiers; Model Train Controller; A Look At
Signal Tracing; Pt.1; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.8.
May 1997: Teletext Decoder For PCs; Build An NTSC-PAL
Converter; Neon Tube Modulator For Light Systems; Traffic
Lights For A Model Intersection; The Spacewriter – It Writes
Messages In Thin Air; A Look At Signal Tracing; Pt.2; Cathode
Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.9.
June 1997: Tuning Up Your Hard Disc Drive; PC-Controlled
Thermometer/Thermostat; Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.1;
Build An Audio/RF Signal Tracer; High-Current Speed Controller
For 12V/24V Motors; Manual Control Circuit For A Stepper
Motor; Fail-Safe Module For The Throttle Servo; Cathode Ray
Oscilloscopes, Pt.10.
September 1995: Railpower Mk.2 Walkaround Throttle For Model
Railways, Pt.1; Keypad Combination Lock; The Vader Voice; Jacob’s
Ladder Display; Audio Lab PC-Controlled Test Instrument, Pt.2.
July 1997: Infrared Remote Volume Control; A Flexible Interface
Card For PCs; Points Controller For Model Railways; Simple
Square/Triangle Waveform Generator; Colour TV Pattern Generator,
Pt.2; An In-Line Mixer For Radio Control Receivers; How Holden’s
Electronic Control Unit works, Pt.1.
October 1995: Geiger Counter; 3-Way Bass Reflex Loudspeaker
System; Railpower Mk.2 Walkaround Throttle For Model Railways,
Pt.2; Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries; Digital Speedometer & Fuel
Gauge For Cars, Pt.1.
August 1997: The Bass Barrel Subwoofer; 500 Watt Audio Power
Amplifier Module; A TENs Unit For Pain Relief; Addressable PC
Card For Stepper Motor Control; Remote Controlled Gates For
Your Home; How Holden’s Electronic Control Unit Works, Pt.2.
November 1995: Mixture Display For Fuel Injected Cars; CB Trans
verter For The 80M Amateur Band, Pt.1; PIR Movement Detector;
Dolby Pro Logic Surround Sound Decoder Mk.2, Pt.1; Digital
Speedometer & Fuel Gauge For Cars, Pt.2.
September 1997: Multi-Spark Capacitor Discharge Ignition; 500W
Audio Power Amplifier, Pt.2; A Video Security System For Your
Home; PC Card For Controlling Two Stepper Motors; HiFi On A
Budget; Win95, MSDOS.SYS & The Registry.
April 1998: Automatic Garage Door Opener, Pt.1; 40V 8A Ad‑
justable Power Supply, Pt.1; PC-Controlled 0-30kHz Sinewave
Generator; Build A Laser Light Show; Understanding Electric
Lighting; Pt.6; Jet Engines In Model Aircraft.
May 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.1; Build A 3-LED Logic
Probe; Automatic Garage Door Opener, Pt.2; Command Control
For Model Railways, Pt.4; 40V 8A Adjustable Power Supply, Pt.2.
June 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.2; Understanding Elec‑
tric Lighting, Pt.7; Universal High Energy Ignition System; The
Roadies’ Friend Cable Tester; Universal Stepper Motor Controller;
Command Control For Model Railways, Pt.5.
July 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.3 (Installing A Modem
And Sorting Out Any Problems); Build A Heat Controller;
15-Watt Class-A Audio Amplifier Module; Simple Charger For
6V & 12V SLA Batteries; Automatic Semiconductor Analyser;
Understanding Electric Lighting, Pt.8.
August 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.4 (Adding Extra
Memory To Your PC); Build The Opus One Loudspeaker System;
Simple I/O Card With Automatic Data Logging; Build A Beat Trig‑
gered Strobe; A 15-Watt Per Channel Class-A Stereo Amplifier.
September 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.5 (Software
Problems & DOS Games); A Blocked Air-Filter Alarm; A WaaWaa Pedal For Your Guitar; Build A Plasma Display Or Jacob’s
Ladder; Gear Change Indicator For Cars; Capacity Indicator For
Rechargeable Batteries.
October 1998: CPU Upgrades & Overclocking; Lab Quality AC
Millivoltmeter, Pt.1; PC-Controlled Stress-O-Meter; Versatile
Electronic Guitar Limiter; 12V Trickle Charger For Float Con‑
ditions; Adding An External Battery Pack To Your Flashgun.
November 1998: Silicon Chip On The World Wide Web; The
Christmas Star (Microprocessor-Controlled Christmas Decora‑
tion); A Turbo Timer For Cars; Build Your Own Poker Machine,
Pt.1; FM Transmitter For Musicians; Lab Quality AC Millivoltme‑
ter, Pt.2; Beyond The Basic Network (Setting Up A LAN Using
TCP/IP); Understanding Electric Lighting, Pt.9; Improving AM
Radio Reception, Pt.1.
December 1998: Protect Your Car With The Engine Immobiliser
Mk.2; Thermocouple Adaptor For DMMs; A Regulated 12V DC
Plugpack; Build Your Own Poker Machine, Pt.2; GM’s Advanced
Technology Vehicles; Improving AM Radio Reception, Pt.2; Mixer
Module For F3B Glider Operations.
January 1999: The Y2K Bug & A Few Other Worries; High-Voltage
Megohm Tester; Getting Going With BASIC Stamp; LED Bargraph
Ammeter For Cars; Keypad Engine Immobiliser; Improving AM
Radio Reception, Pt.3; Electric Lighting, Pt.10
February 1999: Installing A Computer Network (Network Types,
Hubs, Switches & Routers); Making Front Panels For Your Pro‑
jects; Low Distortion Audio Signal Generator, Pt.1; Command
Control Decoder For Model Railways; Build A Digital Capacitance
Meter; Remote Control Tester; Electric Lighting, Pt.11.
March 1999: Getting Started With Linux; Pt.1; Build A Digital
Anemometer; 3-Channel Current Monitor With Data Logging;
Simple DIY PIC Programmer; Easy-To-Build Audio Compres‑
sor; Low Distortion Audio Signal Generator, Pt.2; Electric
Lighting, Pt.12.
April 1999: Getting Started With Linux; Pt.2; High-Power Electric
Fence Controller; Bass Cube Subwoofer; Programmable Ther‑
mostat/Thermometer; Build An Infrared Sentry; Rev Limiter For
Cars; Electric Lighting, Pt.13; Autopilots For Radio-Controlled
Model Aircraft.
PLEASE NOTE: November 1987 to August 1988, October 1988 to
March 1989, June 1989, August 1989, December 1989, May 1990,
August 1991, February 1992, July 1992, September 1992, November
1992, December 1992 and March 1998 are now sold out. All other
issues are presently in stock. For readers wanting articles from
sold-out issues, we can supply photostat copies (or tear sheets) at
$7.00 per article (includes p&p). When supplying photostat articles
or back copies, we automatically supply any relevant notes & errata
at no extra charge. A complete index to all articles published to date is
available on floppy disc for $10 including p&p, or can be downloaded
free from our web site: www.siliconchip.com.au
MAY 1999 79
Getting started
with Linux; Pt.3
This month we’ll show you how to put Linux
to work. In particular, we’ll look at
configuring Linux as a file and printer server
to a Windows network and describe how to
use Linux as a router, so that several people
can share an Internet connection.
By BOB DYBALL
For many people, the word “LAN”
or even “computer” evokes fear and
trepidation at the expenses that will
be incurred. Fortunately, Linux can
provide a low-cost solution to many
networking requirements, especially
when it comes to shared Internet
access.
As we learnt last month, by running
Linux, there’s still some life that can
be squeezed out of many old 486s and
slower Pentium machines. For example, if you have 2, 3, 10 or even 20
people who would like Internet access
(eg, for email), a humble 486 running
Linux and a single Internet feed are
about all you need to get going.
Be warned though that Linux isn’t
for everyone and takes some time to
learn. If you really need to keep your
existing system running (eg, in a production or office environment), don’t
go messing with things too much.
Instead, set up a small test network
and work up to the grand plan slowly.
Also, because of the differences
between one version of Linux and
another (eg., kernel 2.03.6 to 2.2.1)
and between the different “distributions” (eg, Red Hat versus Caldera),
it will be necessary to generalise here
on occasions. Fortunately, most of
the differences are quite minor, some
simply involving a different installation directory or different standard
settings,
Fig.1: this screen shot is from a Windows 98 system,
look-ing across a network at shared resources on a
Windows 95 machine named “Lister”.
80 Silicon Chip
The worst case scenario for a new
Linux user might be the need to recompile the kernel – something that
wouldn’t be too much fun early on
unless you’re the adventurous type.
OK, let’s take a look at how to set
up a Linux installation to function as
a file and printer server.
The wrong and the right way
to share printers
The moment you have less printers
than PCs, you’ll run into a familiar
problem – how do you allow those
people without printers to print documents without interrupting those with
printers. Faced with this problem,
some people don’t even consider a
LAN or if they do, think that a printer
switch box is the cheaper way to go.
If you’ve just bought a printer
switch box, you probably won’t like
reading this. But think about it – if
you allow $40 or so for the switch box
and then add the cost of the cables to
Fig.2: this screen shot is from the same Windows 98 system.
It’s looking at the same machine as before but now running
Linux, with file and printer sharing courtesy of Samba.
connect the PCs, you’re not going to
get much change from $100. In fact,
depending on the number of PCs you
have, it could cost you a lot more.
Another drawback is that printer
cables are limited in length to a couple of metres, unless you buy special
(and expensive) long cables or a line
buffer. After that, cable capacitance
can cause signal degradation and
reliability problems. What’s more, a
manual printer switch is a real source
of frustration. It’s all too easy to forget
about the switch, which means that
your job often won’t print because the
wrong computer or printer is selected.
There is a better, easier and cheaper
way of doing things – network the
computers. All you need for a two-PC
LAN are a couple of cheap network
cards at $25-$40 each, a length of coaxial cable, two T-pieces and a couple
of 50Ω terminators. Make sure you use
50Ω cable, because leftover 75Ω TV
coax won’t work. Also, it’s a good idea
to buy “combo” network cards, which
have connectors for both 10Base-2
(coax) and 10Base-T cable.
By including the 10Base-T option,
you can easily expand the network
later on by adding a hub and changing over to Cat.5 cable – without the
added cost of new network cards. Of
course, a hub will add to the cost but
a 10Base-T (star) network is more
reliable than a 10Base-2 network
once you have three or more PCs. A
cable break only affects one computer
on a 10-Base-T network, while all
computers on a 10Base-2 network
are affected.
For a simple two or three-PC network though, coaxial cable is the
cheapest way to go and reliability
won’t be a problem. Depending on the
cards you buy, you can network three
PCs for less than $120-$150.
Once you have a network up and
running, you can easily share resources such as printers and CD-ROM
drives without any hassles. And you
can easily transfer files between computers and that’s something you can’t
do via a printer switch box.
Why a dedicated server?
To avoid disrupting others on a network, you need to set up a dedicated
server. Often, this needn’t be anything
more than an old 486 with 8MB of
RAM. This type of machine would run
rather slowly under Windows 95 but
would give quite good performance
Fig.3: The Samba Configuration File
# The main Samba configuration file - for sharing within a Workgroup
#======================= Global Settings =====================================
[global]
# workgroup = NT-Domain-Name or Workgroup-Name
workgroup = WORKGROUP
# server string is the equivalent of the NT Description field
server string = Red Hat Linux 5.2 Samba Server
# This option is important for security. It allows you to restrict
# connections to machines which are on your local network. The
# following example restricts access to two C class networks and
# the “loopback” interface. For more examples of the syntax see
# the smb.conf man page
hosts allow = 192.168.1. 127.
# if you want to automatically load your printer list rather
# than setting them up individually then you’ll need this
printcap name = /etc/printcap
load printers = yes
# this tells Samba to use a separate log file for each machine
# that connects
log file = /var/log/samba/log.%m
# Put a capping on the size of the log files (in Kb).
max log size = 50
# Security mode. Most people will want user level security. See
# security_level.txt for details.
security = user
# Most people will find that this option gives better performance.
# See speed.txt and the manual pages for details
socket options = TCP_NODELAY
# Cause this host to announce itself to local subnets here
remote announce = 192.168.1.255
# Browser Control Options:
# set local master to no if you don’t want Samba to become a master
# browser on your network. Otherwise the normal election rules apply
local master = no
# OS Level determines the precedence of this server in master browser
# elections. The default value should be reasonable
os level = 33
# DNS Proxy - tells Samba whether or not to try to resolve NetBIOS names
dns proxy = no
#============================ Share Definitions ==============================
[a]
comment = floppy drive under Linux
path = /mnt/floppy
public = yes
writable = yes
printable = no
[c]
comment = Win 95 C: drive via Linux
path = /fatc
public = yes
writable = yes
printable = no
[d]
comment = CDROM under Linux
path = /mnt/cdrom
public = yes
writable = no
printable = no
[linux]
comment = All of Linux - Not a good idea to do this!!
path = /
public = yes
writable = yes
printable = no
[bjc4300]
comment = Canon BJC4300 printer under Linux
public = yes
writable = no
printable = yes
MAY 1999 81
Fig.4: Alternative Samba Configuration File
# The main Samba configuration file - for sharing within an NT-Domain
#======================= Global Settings =====================================
[global]
# workgroup = NT-Domain-Name or Workgroup-Name
workgroup = REDDWARF
# server string is the equivalent of the NT Description field
server string = Red Hat Linux 5.2 Samba Server
# This option is important for security. It allows you to restrict
# connections to machines which are on your local network. The
# following example restricts access to two C class networks and
# the “loopback” interface. For more examples of the syntax see
# the smb.conf man page
hosts allow = 192.168.1. 127.
# this tells Samba to use a separate log file for each machine
# that connects
log file = /var/log/samba/log.%m
# Put a capping on the size of the log files (in Kb).
max log size = 50
# Security mode. Most people will want user level security. See
# security_level.txt for details.
security = server
# Use password server option only with security = server
password server = REDDWARF
# Most people will find that this option gives better performance.
# See speed.txt and the manual pages for details
socket options = TCP_NODELAY
# Cause this host to announce itself to local subnets here
remote announce = 192.168.1.255
# Browser Control Options:
# set local master to no if you don’t want Samba to become a master
# browser on your network. Otherwise the normal election rules apply
local master = yes
# OS Level determines the precedence of this server in master browser
# elections. The default value should be reasonable
os level = 33
# Domain Master specifies Samba to be the Domain Master Browser. This
# allows Samba to collate browse lists between subnets. Don’t use this
# if you already have a Windows NT domain controller doing this job
domain master = yes
# Preferred Master causes Samba to force a local browser election on startup
# and gives it a slightly higher chance of winning the election
preferred master = yes
# Enable this if you want Samba to be a domain logon server for
# Windows95 workstations.
domain logons = yes
# Where to store roving profiles (only for Win95 and WinNT)
# %L substitutes for this servers netbios name, %U is username
# You must uncomment the [Profiles] share below
logon path = \\%L\Profiles\%U
# DNS Proxy - tells Samba whether or not to try to resolve NetBIOS names
# via DNS nslookups. The built-in default for versions 1.9.17 is yes,
# this has been changed in version 1.9.18 to no.
dns proxy = no
#============================ Share Definitions ==============================
… etc
running Linux and “Samba”.
With a little more work, a modest
Linux PC could also be used to validate users on a network, all for a
fraction of the cost of a Windows NT
system – both in terms of software
and hardware.
For those familiar with workgroups
as opposed to “domains” on a network, a Windows NT server can hold
usernames and passwords. This allows you to centrally control access to
file shares, printers and other devices.
Another advantage of this scheme
is that users need not worry about
using the same PC from day to day, as
their “profiles” (or settings) can travel
with them as they log onto other PCs
on the network. The log-on process
82 Silicon Chip
under Linux with Samba (or Windows
NT) saves you from having to set
passwords right across a peer-to-peer
network, which is very useful if more
than a few people use the system.
Samba has become a popular addition to most Linux distributions
and is usually available as an option
that can be installed with the rest of
Linux. Both the popular Red Hat 5.2
and Caldera Open Linux 1.3 packages
have Samba added to their installation
programs.
If you haven’t installed Samba or if
your version of Linux doesn’t provide
this, Samba is available as a compressed archive for download, or as
an RPM file. RPM stands for “Red Hat
Package Manager”, a handy format
that packages the file and installation
instructions to Linux.
Samba has another part to it called
“Samba Client”, which works in reverse. If there is a file share or printer
share on a Windows network, then
Samba Client can provide access to
these from a Linux workstation.
Setting up Samba
Fig.3 shows the Samba configuration file (smb.conf) which is found
in the /etc directory. From this, you
should have no trouble when it comes
to setting up share definitions.
This much-simplified file is based
on the standard Samba smb.conf file
and is not designed with high security
in mind. It’s probably best to start with
a simple smb.conf file like this and
work from there, as there are many
options. Note that the original sample
smb.conf file includes comments to
show you where to add in username/
password access.
If you want to have your Linux/
Samba server “look” more like a Windows NT server and use “Domain”
logons instead, then you might change
your smb.conf file to something more
like Fig.4.
At the same time, you’ll need to
make a couple of changes to the
configuration of your Windows
95/98 computers. These changes are
both made using the Network applet
found in Control Panel. Double-click
the Network icon, then click Client
for Microsoft Networks, then click
Properties. For workgroup or “peer
to peer” networking, make sure that
the “Log onto Windows NT domain”
option is unchecked – see Fig.5.
Now click OK, then click the tab
marked “Access Control”. For work
group networking, you would normally select “Share-level access control”
(see Fig.6), relying on each printer or
file share across the network to have
its own individual security though
passwords, or not as the case may be.
Alternatively, if using a domain
log on, a single password log on to
the Linux server (in the guise of a
Windows NT domain server, again
courtesy of Samba) will verify your
access to file or printer shares across
the network. With this system, there
is only one password to remember,
not one for every different machine
across the network that has a resource
you might wish to use.
A Windows 95/98 PC set for do-
Fig.5: for workgroup or “peer to peer”
networking, make sure that the “Log
onto Windows NT domain” option is
unchecked.
Controllers” or BDCs and take over if
the PDC fails. A similar arrangement
could also be set up using Linux servers running Samba, although that is
beyond the scope of this article.
So in summary, rather than have
dozens of different passwords across
a network, or none at all because it’s
too cumbersome, consider running
Samba in its domain setup rather than
as a simple workgroup system.
If you’ve only a few users to set
up, you might do this manually using
adduser. Note that Red Hat Linux has
a slightly different adduser utility
compared to other distributions, so
check its use by using the command
man adduser. Although it’s possible
to edit the name/password file, it’s
not good practice since file locks are
placed on the file (/etc/passwd) during editing that might prevent others
logging on. Note that passwords are
visible in the /etc/passwd file but are
encrypted.
Another useful command is pass‑
wd, used to set a particular user’s
password. Again, typing man passwd
will give more information on this
command.
For more information on users
and administration in general, either
check the FAQ area of the website
covering your distribution or see
the Linux Documentation Project at
sunsite.unc.edu in the /pub/Linux/
docs/LDP directory.
Setting up Linux as an Internet gateway or “router”
Fig.6: for workgroup networking, you
would normally select “Share-level
access control”, relying on each
printer or file share across the
network to have its own individual
security though passwords.
main log ons and user level access is
set up as shown in Fig.7 and Fig.8.
In this case, check the box “Log onto
Windows NT domain” and enter in
the domain name of the server you
wish to log on to. Click OK, then click
“User-level access control” and again
enter the domain name.
On large networks, one normally
finds a Windows NT server set up as
a “Primary Domain Controller” (or
PDC). Such networks also usually
include one or more NT machines
running as backups. These are called,
funnily enough, “Backup Domain
Another common network problem is where multiple users require
Inter
net access but you only have
one phone line available. So how do
you go about solving this problem
without installing extra phone lines
and buying extra modems? A router is
the answer and no, it need not break
the bank.
By installing a router, individuals
on the network can access the Internet
via a single modem attached to one
computer – in this case, your Linux
server. In fact, a router will even allow
multiple users to access the Internet
(all using the same ISP account) at the
same time via this single connection,
although things can get rather slow if
more than a few people are logged on.
By installing a router package, an
old 486 running Linux can easily serve
up to 10 or 20 people. Obviously, if
everyone is a heavy user of the net,
you need to provide the router with
a decent Internet feed to keep things
running smoothly. A household or a
small business can usually get away
with sharing one modem between
several people (since not everyone’s
going to be browsing at the same time),
while a large business might need a
64k or 128k ISDN feed.
In simple terms, you can think of a
router as behaving like a mail sorter
and postman. Incoming and outgoing envelopes, known as “packets”
on the LAN, are “routed” to their
correct destinations, depending on
where they’re coming from and where
they’re meant to go.
Fig.7: here’s how to set up a Windows
95/98 PC for domain name log ons.
Use the same domain name for all PCs
on the network.
Fig.8: after setting up the domain
name (see Fig.7), click the Access
Control tab, click “User-level access
control” and again enter the domain
name.
MAY 1999 83
Fig.9(a): setting up the DNS
configuration in the TCP/IP Properties
dialog box. In this case, the Domain
name is reddwarf.home (this is the
same for all PCs on the network),
while the Host name is starbug. The
DNS Server Search Order numbers
are those provided by your ISP.
Fig.9(b): after setting the DNS
Configuration, click the Gateway
tab and enter in the IP address for
the Gateway/Router machine (ie, the
Linux machine) in the window below
“New gateway” and click Add. The
address will then be shown in the
“Installed gateways” window.
Linux makes an ideal router, a
fact attested to by the many Internet
Service Providers (ISPs) who now
use Linux, along with the increasing
numbers of businesses, schools and
even home users. There are three main
things to consider when setting up
your system:
(1) Linux must have its Kernel set
up for IP forwarding (some distributions do not have this as standard and
will have to be recompiled with this
option enabled;
(2) Linux needs to have an Internet
dialler set up, so that it can connect
to the ISP account; and
(3) The other “client” computers
on the LAN must be set up to make
use of the new “gateway” or “router”;
ie, they must direct Internet traffic
through the router PC instead of directly via a modem.
We’ll assume here that you have
IP forwarding enabled, since it is
present by default in most, if not all,
of the latest versions across various
distributions. These include Red
Hat 5.2, Caldera Open Linux 1.3 and
Slackware 2.0.36. You might still have
the option of disabling this feature
during installation, so be careful not
to choose the wrong options.
When it comes to an Internet
dialler for Linux, there are lots of
choices. You’ll find there are diallers
that provide only SLIP, while other
diallers provide PPP. On your Linux
distribution CD-ROM, you should find
a useful guide to PPP access under /
doc/FAQ/html/PPP-FAQ.html. If you
don’t have a browser up and running,
refer to the text version at /doc/FAQ/
txt/PPP-FAQ instead.
As with the Windows 95/98 diallers, some Linux diallers have
what’s known as “dial on demand”.
This means that they automatically
dial your ISP when ever a program
function requires an Internet connection (eg, when checking for email). After a given period of inactivity, these
will hang up the line automatically.
If you are fortunate enough to have
a permanent connection, the system
should be set up to automatically
redial if the line drops out for some
reason (this is done to maintain the
connection). For more information
on dial on demand (diald), including
examples, check the “how to” files
on the distribution CD-ROM. These
are usually found in /doc/HOWTO/
mini/diald (note: under Linux this,
like most things, is case sensitive).
If you want a quick and simple way
to view these files, do the following:
• type mount /mnt/cdrom to allow
access to the CD (umount /mnt/cdrom
releases it).
• type mc to run Midnight Commander, for easy access to Linux.
Once Midnight Commander is
84 Silicon Chip
running, use F3 to view a file or F4
to edit (there’s also a range of other
useful functions). You don’t have to
be a Unix/Linux command whiz here,
as Midnight Commander is quite easy
to use (it’s certainly easier for the first
time user than trying to figure out
what to type at the command line).
In addition to the information on diallers, you’ll also find information on
firewalls and networking in general.
Choose the dialler that suits you
best and don’t worry too much about
changing from one dialler to another.
The actual diallers are usually just
a “shell script” (rather like a super-batch file, for those used to DOS).
Simple or even quite complex tasks
that might otherwise be repetitive
can easily be automated using “shell
scripts”.
Home users or casual users might
prefer to dial up manually. This prevents the system from automatically
reconnecting if the line drops out and
someone has forgotten to turn off an
email package that requests an email
check at 10-minute intervals overnight. Local calls might be cheap but
they can soon add up.
IP addressing
Finally, you need to ensure that the
clients (ie, the other machines on the
LAN) are set up to use the router as a
gateway. Note that you don’t have to
use “real” IP addresses for the clients.
Instead, it’s best to use “non-routable”
IP addresses (so that your LAN is
invisible to other computers on the
Internet) and let the router handle
the rest.
If you have a permanent connection, your ISP will usually assign you
one IP address and this is given to the
router. Alternatively, for dial up connections, the IP address is assigned
automatically to the dialler, so you
don’t have to bother about it.
We talked about IP addressing in
“Beyond the Basic Network – Setting
up a LAN using TCP/IP” (see SILICON
CHIP, November 1998). In particular,
we mentioned that the Internet Assigned Numbers Authority (IANA)
has reserved the following three
blocks of non-routable IP addresses
for “private Internets” (ie, Intranets).
These address blocks are as follows:
10.0.0.0 to 10.255.255.255
172.16.0.0 to 172.31.255.255
192.168.0.0 to 192.168.255.255
if you were running a single Windows
95/98 dial up.
Lmhosts
Fig.10(a): in most cases, you will have
to select “Disable WINS Resolution”
in this dialog box, as WINS (Windows
Internet Naming Service) is generally
only used on large networks. For
small networks, you can use lmhosts.
Fig.10(b): next, click the IP Address
tab, check “Specify IP Address”
and enter in the IP address for that
computer (192.168.1.40 in this case),
along with the Subnet Mask (use
255.255.255.0 for all machines).
For this and further details on IP
addressing, point your web browser
to http://ucnet.canberra.edu.au/RFC/
rfc/rfc1918.html
The IP address 127.0.0.1 is a special
address that’s refers to some other
program on the PC itself – in this case,
the router.
What you have to do now is assign
an IP address for each of the machines
on the network. For example, let’s use
192.168.1.1 for the Linux machine
with the gateway/router, 192.168.1.40
for the first client computer on the
network, 192.168.1.80 for a second
client, and so on.
Don’t use 192.168.1.255 or similar
.255 addresses, and don’t use .0 addresses, as they have a special meaning in a network like this.
You also have to enter in a Domain
name and a Host name on each PC
and you do that via the DNS Configuration tab of the TCP/IP Properties
dialog box as shown in Fig.9(a). In this
case, the Domain name is reddwarf.
home (this is the same for all PCs on
the network), while the Host name is
starbug (a different Host name is used
for each PC).
This done, click the Gateway tab,
enter in the IP address for the Gateway/Router machine (at New gateway)
and click Add (Fig.9(b)). You also
select Disable WINS Resolution
(see Fig.10(a)), after which you
click the IP Address tab and enter
in the IP address for that computer
(192.168.1.40), along with the Subnet
Mask (use 255.255.255.0 in all cases)
– see Fig.10(b).
On the client computers, you would
normally set the Primary and Secondary DNS to the addresses given to
you by your ISP. Leave the gateway IP
address blank on the gateway/router
itself (since it is one) and configure the
DNS settings on the router to reflect
those your ISP would tell you to use
Fig.11: Example LMHOSTS File
#IP Address
#
192.168.1.1
192.168.1.40
192.168.1.80
Fig.12: Example Linux hosts File
127.0.0.1
192.168.1.1
192.168.1.40
192.168.1.80
localhost.localdomain
lister.reddwarf.home
starbug.reddwarf.home
holly.reddwarf.home
localhost
lister
starbug
holly
Machine name
lister
starbug
holly
In order for the machines to “find”
each other on the network, you now
need to create a simple text file called
LMHOSTS (ie, no extension) and copy
it to the C:\WINDOWS directory of
each Windows 95/98 machine. This
lists the IP address of each machine
on the network and its (Host) name.
Fig.11 shows the LMHOSTS file
you would use for the example given
above (the lines starting with “#” are
comments and don’t do anything).
Note that a reboot is necessary after
adding (or altering) an LMHOSTS file.
You also need to add a similar file
to the /etc directory of your Linux
machine. In this case, the file is called
hosts (not LMHOSTS) and you must list
the IP address, the Domain name and
the Host name of each computer – see
Fig.12. You must also include the IP
address for the localhost (this isn’t
necessary for Windows 95/98/NT as
localhost is automatically defined as
127.0.0.1).
You may be wondering about the
Domain name ending in .home rather
than .com or .com.au. Well, you can
use almost anything you like here
since it only has to be recognised by
your local network.
What’s more, using the .home extension means that your private domain
cannot be “seen” by the Internet,
just as the Internet cannot access the
non-routable IP addresses listed above.
Should any reference to these domain
names or IP addresses appear out in
the outside world on the Internet, they
would be ignored.
If you have more than about 20 computers, editing all the LMHOSTS files
becomes a nuisance when you want
to add extra machines to the network.
There are a few shortcuts but when you
reach that stage, it’s best to consider
using either WINS (Windows Internet
Naming Service), DHCP (Dynamic
Host Configuration Protocol), or a DNS
(Domain Naming System).
In Pt.4, we’ll talk about Linux fire
walls and security issues. We also plan
to discuss what DNS, WINS, DHCP
and hosts or LMHOSTS actually do
(probably in a separate article). And
so that Windows users do not feel
unloved, we’ll describe how these
relate to Windows 95, Windows 98
SC
and Windows NT as well.
MAY 1999 85
VINTAGE RADIO
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
Restoring the butchered set
Restoring a vintage radio that someone else
has had a go at can be a difficult job.
Sometimes the fault will be quite subtle but
all too often, the previous restorer will have
made a complete mess of things.
It’s not unusual to come across a
set that has been really butchered.
When you see such a set, it makes
you think that the person who did
the work on it should be granted the
striped apron award and then hung,
drawn and quartered.
Often, these sets are obtained for
what appears to be a reasonable price
and the seller often says that there
isn’t much wrong with the radio.
Sometimes however, the seller has
tried to get the set going but has finished up with a mess that’s bigger than
when the work was started. This is a
case where a little knowledge can be
dangerous. Caution is needed in restoring sets that haven’t been “got at”
and an enormous amount of caution
is needed where as set has obviously
This view shows the wiring around the 6M5 valve socket of the Little Nipper
radio that I was given to service. Before removing any parts, it’s a good idea to
make a drawing of the connections so that it can be easily reassembled later on.
86 Silicon Chip
been “got at” and “butchered” into
the bargain.
In some cases, the restorer has
been very careful with the work but
has been unsuccessful because they
didn’t understand how the circuit
worked. In other cases, everything
has been done correctly and the lack
of success is due to a faulty new part.
Yes, that happens occasionally and
people with considerable experience
get caught as well.
A snap diagnosis
When I built my first radio in 1954
(a “Marconi” 1-valve kit), I couldn’t
get it to work. I then took the typical
but totally useless approach of a novice and pulled it to pieces and rebuilt
it – more than once, actually – and
it still didn’t go! It must be the 3V4
valve, I reckoned, so I sent it back to
the supplier and they sent me another
one and the set then worked.
For once, the diagnosis of “it must
be the valve” was correct but it often
isn’t. I had no test gear, virtually no
radio knowledge and no hope of finding out what was wrong. My so-called
diagnosis was nothing more than a
lucky guess.
Of course, once the set was operating, I became the local radio expert
– at least, in my opinion. I was soon
brought back to earth. A cousin and I
tried to get his 1-valve (1D8GT) radio
going a little later on and we had no
success with it at all. Like mine, I
wondered some years later if we had
inadvertently put HT voltage on the
filament of the valves! We’ll never
know.
In circumstances like this, it is better to get some advice from a restorer
more experienced than you are. When
we lack the experience of years in the
trade, it’s easy to overlook things that
Fig.1: the circuit of a late-model HMV “Little Nipper”. Substituting incorrect component values can really upset the
performance of a circuit like this.
a more knowledgeable person would
detect quickly.
For example, I got bogged down
trying to get my VHF amateur radio
station going on the 144-148MHz
band soon after I got my licence. I
literally didn’t have a clue and so a
friend and I bundled all our amateur
radio gear into the car and travelled
100km to the nearest VHF amateur
radio operator. He helped both of us
get the equipment going, explained to
us what he was doing and encouraged
us in various ways.
We never looked back from that
time onwards. And so it is with new
restorers. A little help at the right time
and you’ll really start to have a satisfying time restoring your radio gems.
The things people do
What people manage to do to the
sets they are restoring could fill
a book. My first story concerns a
friend’s brother-in-law. He acquired
a 6V vibrator mantle set which he
asked my friend about and was told
that it was a battery operated set.
Obviously, this advice didn’t sink
into the “smart-alec” brother-in-law’s
head, as he promptly removed the
50A battery clips and substituted a
3-pin mains plug. He then plugged
the set into the 240V mains supply.
There are no prizes for guessing
what happened next. All the valves
now have no filaments, while the fate
of the vibrator is unknown As for the
rest of the set, heaven knows what
damage has been done. A perfectly
good set was instantly turned into
junk and it’s now a very doubtful
proposition for restoration.
This same scenario often occurs
when 32V sets are bought or sold to
the local secondhand/antiques shop.
Unfortunately, 32V sets look like their
240V AC cousins and usually have
3-pin plugs on their power cords.
Plugged into 240V, things light up
brilliantly for a fraction of a second
until the fuses in the set blow – that
is, if they haven’t been replaced with
a 2-inch nail (the original 300A slowblow fuse). Remarkably, many 32V
sets survive such harsh treatment but
be aware that all may not be well in
such a set.
Then there are the sets that someone has actually got into and “serviced”. These are the real worry and
before even switching them on, it’s
advisable to obtain a circuit diagram
from the Historical Radio Society of
Looking for an old valve?
or a new valve?
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MAY 1999 87
Fixing the butchered set – continued
Australia or the New Zealand Vintage
Radio Society. Alternatively, you may
know a fellow enthusiast who can
supply a copy.
If in doubt, trace the circuit out to
determine whether it is as it should
be. If not, a rewiring job lies ahead
before the set can be turned on. Sometimes, the exact circuit diagram will
be difficult to obtain. If this happens,
select a circuit that’s similar (eg, for a
slightly different model) and use this
as a starting point for the restoration.
Naturally, different valves require
slightly different operating conditions
and the Miniwatt Technical Data book
can help you here.
The Little Nipper
I once had a late model Little
Nipper HMV radio to service. These
sets are quite reliable and, as shown
in Fig.1, the circuit is quite straightforward . This particular set suffered
from instability in the IF amplifier.
In this circuit, the AGC bypass/
filter capacitor (C9) not only filters
the AGC line but also acts as part of a
neutralising circuit with C8 (this just
goes to show that pentodes, as well as
triodes, can benefit from neutralising
in RF circuits). I found that the restorer had installed the wrong value for
C9 (about 10 times the correct value).
This in turn upset the neutralisation
and caused the instability. As soon as
the correct value was installed for C9,
the set performed quite nicely.
In another case, the restorer re-
t
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!
HALF PRICE
placed the diode detector RF filter capacitor (C15) with another capacitor
that he thought was of the same value.
Apparently, it wasn’t easy to read the
value on the original and not having
a circuit to refer to, he used a .01µF
capacitor when the correct value was
100pF. As a result, the set was very
“bassy” and had little audio gain.
Once again, changing the capacitor
fixed the problem.
Capacitor values are not usually
critical except in tuned circuits. Gross
deviations from the correct values can
create problems but one step up or
down from the nominal value is rarely
a problem. Note also that some of the
nominal values that have been used
for years through force of habit are
not necessarily the optimum values.
On the other hand, resistors tend
to be more critical and so the correct
values should be used in that part of
that particular set’s circuit. By following the general component values,
as shown in Fig.1, the performance
should be quite reasonable.
The worst sets
The worst sets to get back into operation are those where the restorer has
decided to replace things “willy-nilly”, in an effort to get the set going. In
some cases, all the paper capacitors
are taken out and then a new batch
is put back in.
Unfortunately, many people forget
to draw diagrams of where things
come from and often end up fitting
the new parts in the wrong places.
The result is a unique circuit that
doesn’t work.
I make it a policy to replace one
component at a time so that I don’t
forget where it came from. And if I
have large component such as a valve
socket to replace, I draw a diagram
on a piece of paper that shows all
the connections, so that I know what
goes where.
Sets that have been abused in
various ways are not good choices
for first-time restorers to cut their
teeth on. Experienced restorers are
not keen on them either and for good
reason – they can be more trouble than
they’re worth.
If you do have a set that falls into
this category it’s best to seek advice
from an experienced vintage radio
restorer. That way, you won’t spend
a lot of time on a set that’s not worth
restoring or that’s beyond your capabilities.
Manufacturing faults
Finally, note that some sets had
faults built into them right from when
they were manufactured. If you can
detect the errors made (and they may
not be easy to find), you may well be
able to say “it goes better than new”.
I’ve encountered a few stinkers like
that over the years and they generally
become first class sets once the problems have been ironed out. Of course,
the faults are usually very subtle and
take some hunting down.
That said, restoring a vintage radio
set that someone else has given up
on is a very satisfying experience.
SC
Have fun.
14 Model Railway Projects
THE PROJECTS: LED Flasher; Railpower Walkaround Throttle; SteamSound Simulator;
Diesel Sound Generator; Fluorescent Light Simulator; IR Remote Controlled Throttle;
Track Tester; Single Chip Sound Recorder; Three Simple Projects (Train Controller,
Traffic Lights Simulator & Points Controller); Level Crossing Detector; Sound & Lights
For Level Crossings; Diesel Sound Simulator.
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ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Write to: Ask Silicon Chip, PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097.
Class A amplifier in
monoblock form
Could you please outline the modifications which would be necessary
to run the Class-A amplifier as two
monoblocks, each using their own
dedicated power supply? To keep the
convenience of one volume control,
I would retain the separate amplifier
and power-supply box design shown
in your article.
However, I would love to see you
publish a control unit worthy of this
amplifier! In such an event, would the
monoblock setup enable each module
to be housed in the same casing as
its respective power supply, (ie, two
self-contained units) or would it be
best kept as is?
In addition, I have two 20-0-20V
160VA toroidal transformers which
I intend to use. Will I need to add
some windings to the secondaries, or
would the slightly lower voltage not
Trigger problem in
multi-spark CDI
While building the Multi-Spark
CDI described in the Septem
ber
1997 issue, I came across the following faults: (1) if both points
circuits are fitted to the board but
only one is used, the circuit will
not fire because the other points
circuit will hold the input of Q4
high via diode D12 or D13; (2) in
the circuit shown to trigger a standard tacho (page 30), Q1 should be a
BC327 PNP transistor, not a BC337
as shown.
Although I have the tacho circuit
firing, it will not move the tacho at
all. Can you offer any suggestions?
Would a resistor in series with the
transformer winding help? (R. J.,
El Arish, Qld).
• The points trigger circuit included the option for using two sets of
points. If you are only using one
90 Silicon Chip
be significant? Just following on from
that, I was thinking of building a pair
of horn speakers and was wondering
how the Class-A amplifier would play
at the extremely low power levels
(milliwatts) that horns require (due
to their highly efficient nature).
Many horn buffs recommend using
low power Class-A triode amplifiers,
claiming that some transistor amplifiers sound bad through horns, as they
have difficulty playing cleanly at very
low levels. Their reasoning is that the
transistors perform best while driving
the high currents they are designed
for, rather than at a level which they
describe as being “barely turned on/
hardly working”.
Would the use of the high power
Motorola MJL21193/4s suffer the
problem described above? Or would
this be the case with any transistor
amplifier (Class-A or otherwise)? In
addition, would the distortion levels
at such a low power level increase to
set of points, then the second set
of components (D13 and the 47Ω
resistor) should not be included on
the PC board. This option was mentioned in the parts list but perhaps
was not made clear enough in the
construction section of the article
and overlay diagram.
Thanks for pointing out that transistor Q1 in the impulse tachometer
circuit should be labelled a BC327
and not BC337 as shown.
Impulse tachometers can sometimes be difficult to drive when the
original ignition system has been
altered. This is because the tacho
meter may have been designed to
detect the primary resonance of the
ignition coil or it requires a slower
or faster rise time from the coil.
We suggest that you experiment
with the value of capacitance between the collector and emitter of
transistor Q2. This will alter the
rise time of the pulse.
the point of becoming intrusive? (P.
S., Mt Colah, NSW).
• No component changes should be
necessary to run class-A monoblocks
although you will need two separate
power supplies, as you have noted.
Make sure that the volume control
wiring is well shielded so that it
does not pick up any hum from the
power supply. We are giving serious
thought to a control unit although it
is far too early to say when a design
might appear.
The Class-A amplifier will perform
superbly at low levels, simply due
to the fact that it is class-A. As you
can read in the article, we estimate
that low level distortion is probably
less than .0002%. This is vastly less
than the typical distortion in a horn
loudspeaker. The real merit of a horn
loudspeaker is its efficiency not high
fidelity. Triode amplifiers are generally low-fi designs. For best quality
from a valve design you need to use
an ultra-linear push-pull design and
even that will not go anywhere near
the quality of our Class-A design.
SLA batteries
need full charge
I was interested to read your article
in the October 1998 issue regarding
the use of SLA batteries for electronic
flash guns. Have you ever run a similar
article for camcorders? If not, let me
tell you my story. I have a Sony CCDF555E, bought in December 1992. It
has a power consumption of 6.9W
(in record mode), according to the
owner’s handbook.
Last year the three NiCd batteries
which I bought in 1992 gave up the
ghost, so I bought a 6V 4A.h SLA
battery. I pulled the insides out of
one of the NiCd battery packs to enable connection to the camcorder and
tried to run it from the SLA battery.
This battery was only able to run the
camcorder for about five minutes before the “low battery” indicator lit up.
Several recharges using a charger
designed for the battery failed to im-
prove the available recording time.
Testing with a multimeter after charging showed a voltage of 6.7V and on
failure to run the camera, about 6.2V.
The wording on the battery indicated
that up to 7.3V could be available.
This didn’t worry me since the mains
adaptor supplied with the camcorder
was rated at 7.2V.
Would a battery setup using a 12V
SLA battery be feasible, or would the
zener or other regulator use up too
much of the battery’s capacity to be
worthwhile? In regards to a “proper”
battery for the camcorder, I subsequently bought a 6V NiMH battery
which has given very poor service
and has been returned to the maker
for inspection and testing.
None of the batteries which I have
used with this camera have lived up
to the performance I would have expected of them. Perhaps the camera
is faulty and should be checked. The
best performance was 60 minutes
recording with a 2.2A.h NiCd about
six months after I bought it, and using
a discharger/charger to recharge it. (I.
S., Castle Hill, NSW).
• 6.7V does not constitute a full
charge for a 6V SLA battery. Full
charge should be around 2.4V or
more per cell, or around 7.2 to 7.3V.
Your charger is clearly not doing the
job. Perhaps you should build our
Multi-Purpose Battery Charger, as
described in the February 1998 issue.
Using a 12V battery and some sort
of switchmode step-down circuit is
a possibility but if your 6V battery is
properly charged it should do the job.
Fast clock for
model railways
I am a model railroader as well as
a scale model builder and I looked at
all your projects for model railways
but the one thing that is lacking is a
fast clock. This would enable running
nights to be done to fast time instead
of real time; eg, 12:1 fast time or 2
real hours = 24 scale hours. (R. S.,
Morphett Vale, SA).
• We published a project along these
lines in the December 1996 issue of
SILICON CHIP.
Gong circuit
wanted
Can you please help me with a
circuit to produce a gong type sound
Query on phone
battery charging
Having accepted the recent $10/
month fee digital mobile network
promotion to upgrade my ancient
analog phone, I opted for Telstra’s
Motorola deal. My prime consideration in my choice of Motorola was
the rather more reasonable $39.95
for an extra nickel metal-hydride
battery.
After familiarising myself with
and customising the great number
of menu options on the keypad, I
fashioned a simple 100Ω 0.25W
resistor battery holder discharger
since the manual recom
mended
that discharge method; the manual also recommends a weekly
complete discharge. I thought that
NiMh cells had no memory effect,
obviating the necessity for complete
discharging.
A second annoyance was the
prohibition on allowing the battery
to be connected to the charger for
longer than 24 hours. Where’s this
so-called smart chip technology?
(similar to the start of Rank movies)
each time a pushbutton is operated?
It would need a variable frequency
control and would be connected to
an amplifier and speaker system. (R.
M., Mount Duneed, Vic).
• While we have not published a circuit which meets your exact requirements, we did publish a Tom-Tom
circuit in the May 1989 issue and this
could be adapted to your application.
Problem with sound
level meter
I have a problem with the Sound
Level Meter as described in December
1996. I performed the calibration as
per instructions with the following
results: LED1 is lit, all ICs have close
to either +9V or -9V (as appropriate)
on their supply pins, the reference is
-2.47V and pin 3 of IC4b has -18mV
on it.
Using the pink noise source on
the 0dB setting, VR2 was adjusted
to 1.002V. Using the same source on
60dB setting, VR1 could only be adjusted down to a reading of 713mV,
not 400mV as required. Any assis-
I thought I could plug the thing
in and forget about it. Could you
please give me the lowdown on
NiMh cells? The customer service
people at Motorola advised me not
to use a 100Ω resistor discharge
system since the higher capacity
cells might reverse polarise the low
capacity cells. (W. T., Oak Flats,
NSW).
• One of our staff members has the
same phone. As far as we can tell,
you can just leave the phone on
standby and it will turn itself off
when fully discharged. Similarly,
it only takes a few hours to charge
and it cuts off when the battery is
fully charged. Why would you leave
it on for more than 24 hours and
why worry about having another
battery pack, unless you need to be
contactable 24 hours a day?
Nickel metal-hydride cells apparently have greatly reduced memory
effect compared to NiCd cells.
We would be wary about discharging the battery pack using a
100Ω resistor unless you ensure that
you do not discharge below 1V/cell.
tance would be most appreciated. (N.
P., Seven Hills, NSW).
• There are several reasons why you
cannot obtain the required 400mV
from the output of IC3b when calibrating the instrument.
First, the output from your pink
noise source may not be 60dB down
when this selection is made. Check
the values of resistance around attenuator switch S2 to ensure that this
is correct.
Second, the output from the pink
noise source may be excessively high
due to an incorrect amount of amplification in either IC1a or IC1b. Check
the resistor components around the
feedback inputs for these amplifiers.
Third, on the Sound Level Meter,
there may be an incorrect value of
resistance used for VR1 or the feedback components around IC3b may
be incorrect.
Fourth, check the gain of IC1a
which should be x69 or measure its
feedback resistor values at pin 2.
Fifth, check all resistor values used
around IC2, IC3a and IC4a. Finally,
wind VR1 fully anticlockwise first, to
obtain the maximum gain from IC3b.
MAY 1999 91
Interference to
garage door opener
I recently built and fitted the
garage door opener from your April
1998 issue. It works well with the
exception of two faults. I decided to
use a power supply instead of a 12V
battery. As of yet I haven’t fitted the
remote. The problems I’m having
are, firstly, if a light or an electrical
tool such as a power saw is used, the
door will open or close. For some
reason the circuit is picking up an
electrical signal which in turn operates the door. The second problem is
that when the door is closing it will
not stop when the limit is tripped
(this only happens intermittently).
The one microswitch is used for
open or close.
I have a second garage door with a
B&D door opener and two remotes.
This should provide a voltage lower
than the requisite 400mV during
calibration.
Drift in digital
voltmeter
I have built the Car Digital Voltmeter as described in the June 1993 issue
of SILICON CHIP and have experienced
drift with the readout. I recently
checked the construction and can’t
find anything noticeably wrong.
If I let the meter stabilise overnight
and then re-calibrate it I find that the
unit still drifts high. Can you suggest
a fix for this problem? The 7805 heatsink runs hotter than I expected even
though you make mention of this in
the construction details. (T. W., via
email).
• There are two components most
likely to cause a temperature drift:
trimpot VR1 and transistor Q1. Try
changing these.
Acoustic feedback in
hearing aids
I wish to monitor the high frequency oscillation generated by behindthe-ear hearing aids. This whistling
sound can sometimes be heard by
others but not by the user. I bought
the Sound Level Meter kit described
92 Silicon Chip
I thought that maybe I could change
the code on one remote and reroute
the received message through to the
SILICON CHIP door opener. What do
you think? The transmitter main
IC is labelled B&D NSW serial TX
035966 and when this is peeled
back its number is CD4067BL RCA
132. It also has an MC14624B and
a CA555CE. The receiver has a
CD4067BE RCA 749 and several
other ICs. I tried some time ago to
get some information on the circuit
but was unsuccessful. Any light
that you may be able to shed on
this project would be appreciated.
(A. K., Belmont, Vic).
• You now know why we chose
a battery, apart from ensuring
that the garage door opener works
during blackouts. Running the
microswitch leads in twin shielded
microphone cable and earthing the
in the December 1996 issue but I am
hopeless with a soldering iron. A
local electronics workshop quoted
about $60 to assemble the kit but
I do not know if it would meet my
requirements. I would appreciate any
advice. (P. M., Darwin, NT).
• We doubt whether this circuit will
be able to discriminate between any
feedback whistle and the general
background noise. Any circuit to
monitor acoustic feedback would
need to be sensitive to the particular
frequencies of the resulting whistle
and be able to reject noise or any other
sounds picked up by the hearing aid.
While such a circuit is feasible, we
have not described anything which
would be suitable for your purpose.
LED ammeter
green LED always on
I have a problem with the LED ammeter described in the January 1999
issue of SILICON CHIP. Everything is
fine with the circuit apart from the
extreme RHS green LED being continuously on after power up. No amount
of adjusting VR2 can change this.
I have replaced IC1 but it made no
difference. I also noted that the 10µF
electrolytic capacitor’s positive electrode is connected to D1 in the overlay
diagram but is connected to pin 4 of
screen to the negative (ground) of
the PC board should cure the first
problem. Looping the DC power
leads a few times through a powdered iron ring (Jaycar LO-1244 or
LO-1246) may also reduce mains
interference.
The only reason we can suggest
that the microswitch fails to work
when the door in closing is that it
is intermittently not being actuated.
Without any mechanical details it
is hard to be specific. The fact that
it never misses in the up direction
tends to indicate that the PC board
is functioning OK.
The feasibility of using your B&D
remote to operate the SILICON CHIP
design depends on the compatibility of the codes of the MC14624 and
the A5885 decoders. You could give
it a try but we are not hopeful that
it would work.
IC1 in the schematic. I oriented the
capacitor this way but still no difference was evident. (N. P., via email).
• The 10µF capacitor should have its
negative electrode connected to pin 4.
The circuit diagram is wrong. Thanks
for bringing this to our attention. As
far as LED1 is concerned, when pin
5 of IC2 is at 0V, LED1 should be off.
Adjust VR2 to get 0V at pin 5 of IC2.
You can check this with your multimeter. Also check that -5V is present at
pin 4 of IC1.
CDI system for an
outboard motor
I am interested in the Multi-Spark
Capacitor Discharge Ignition described in the September 1997 issue.
Could you please advise the suitability of this unit for an old Chrysler 85
bhp 3-cylinder outboard motor. This
motor previously had a Magnapower
ignition installed.
If OK, what value should capacitor C3 be? You give values for 4, 6 &
8-cylinder motors. (W. B., via email).
• The Multi-Spark Capacitor Discharge Ignition system is suitable for
an outboard motor provided that there
is a suitable trigger signal from either
points, reluctor, or Hall effect unit.
Many outboard motors use a magneto
which then fires an electronic module.
A second coil charges the discharge
capacitor to a high voltage before
triggering.
It may be possible to fire the unit
using the reluctor input from the magneto. However, we have not tried this.
A suitable capacitor for C3 should be
0.15µF.
UHF remote control
for car alarm
In your August 1990 issue, you
featured a transmitter which I bought
from Dick Smith Electronics as a kit.
I selected a code to work with my
“commercial” car alarm. It works
fine except that the range is a bit low
(despite tweaking it on a spectrum
analyser).
I haven’t seen the circuit for your
2-channel UHF transmitter (also avail
from Dick Smith Electronics) but can
you tell me:
(1) Does it transmit on the same frequency?
(2) Does it use the same encoder chip?
(3) Does it have a greater range?
(4) Will it therefore work (1-channel
of course) with your old UHF remote
control receiver kit?
(O. W., via email).
• The 2-channel transmitter transmits at 304MHz but does not use the
same encoder. We expect that it has a
similar range to the earlier design but
cannot state whether it could be made
to work with your car alarm.
Enhancing the
class-A amplifier
I have a few questions regarding
the 15 watt class-A amplifier project.
I wish to provide extra inputs for
CD, tuner, stereo VCR and tape in/
out sockets. The plan is to use gold
RCA input sockets on the back panel. These would be selected via two
Notes & Errata
Low Distortion Audio Signal Generator, February & March 1999: on
the circuit diagram on page 28 of
the February issue, trimpot VR4
is incorrectly labelled as 100kΩ
rather than 10kΩ.
Also on the circuit there should
be shown a 10kΩ resistor in
between the 20kΩ resistor connecting to the 330µF capacitors
at the output of IC1b and the pin
2 inverting input of IC4b. The
PC board includes this resistor
and this is shown on the overlay
diagram, on page 63 of the March
issue, as the third 10kΩ resistor
below diode D2.
The overlay diagram also has
transposed the anode and cathodes
(A & K) labelling for LED1 & LED2.
The package outline orientation is
correct. The polarity shown on the
circuit is also correct.
Electric Fence Controller, April
1999: the supply leads to the
battery, as shown on the wiring
diagram on page 28 (Fig.7) are
reversed.
In addition, the transformer
bobbins for T1 & T2 may differ
from those used in our prototype.
The difference will be that the five
rows of pins on each bobbin may be
spaced wider than allowed for on
rotary switches mounted toward the
back of the case and controlled by an
extension shaft to keep the wiring for
the inputs as short as possible.
If I take this approach are the performance figures likely to be degraded?
All other construction details would
be as per the article.
One final question: was the rack
the PC board. You can either bend
the pins on the bobbin inward so
that they will fit into the original
holes or new holes can be drilled
at the wider spacing.
The larger bobbins mean that
the transformers will be easier to
wind and there will be more room
to insert the ferrite cores. A revised
PC board has been produced to
provide for both bobbin types.
Multi-Spark CDI, September 1997:
transistor Q1 in the impulse tachometer circuit on page 30 should
be labelled a BC327 and not BC337
as shown.
LED Ammeter, January 1999: the
circuit diagram on page 55 has an
error. The 10µF capacitor associated with IC1a should have its negative electrode connected to pin 4.
Capacitance Meter, February
1999: the wiring diagram on page
70 has a number of errors. The
100µF capacitor associated with
D1 & D2 is unmarked and is shown
with reverse polarity. Also VR3 &
VR4 are swapped, although their
values are the same.
Bass Cube Subwoofer, April 1999:
the rear panel should be screwed
into place but not glued, although
some sort of sealant should be used
to avoid leaks.
case used in the prototype a commercially available unit or was it built
from scratch to incorporate the two
heatsinks? (J. W., Five Dock, NSW).
• Provided your input switching is
well-shielded, it should not degrade
the amplifier’s performance. Our case
was an obsolete rack case to which we
SC
attached the heatsinks.
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such projects should
be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be carried out according to
the instructions in the articles. When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact
with mains AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages or other high
voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability for damages should anyone
be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of SILICON CHIP magazine. Devices or circuits described in
SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing
or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims any liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant
government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the Trade Practices
Act 1974 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are applicable.
MAY 1999 93
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94 Silicon Chip
FOR SALE
C COMPILERS: everything you need
to develop C and ASM software for
68HC08, 6809, 68HC11, 68HC12,
68HC16, 8051/52, 8080/85, 8086,
8096 or AVR: $155.00 each. Macro
Cross Assemblers and Disassemblers
for above CPUs + 6800/01/03/05, 6502
and 68HC12 for $78. Debug monitors:
$78 for 6 CPUs. All compilers, XASMs
and monitors: $480. 8051/52 Simulator
(fast, now incl. 80C320): $78. Try the
C-FLEA Virtual Machine for small CPUs,
build a “C-Stamp”. Demo desk: FREE.
All prices + $5 p&p.
Atmel Flash CPU Programmer:
Handles the 89Cx051, the 89C5x and
89Sxx series, and the new AVRs in
both DIP and PLCC44. Also does most
8-pin EEPROMs. Includes socket for
serial ISP cable. $199, $37 tax, $10
p&p. SOIC adaptors: 20-pin $90, 14-pin
$85, 8-pin $80. Credit cards accepted.
GRANTRONICS PTY LTD, PO Box 275,
Wentworthville 2145. Ph (02) 9896 7150;
Fax (02) 9631 1236; or Internet:
http://www.grantronics.com.au
TELEPHONE EXCHANGE SIMULATOR, SC February 1998. Test equipment without the cost of telephone lines.
$190. MAGNETIC CARD READER,
SC January 1996. Holds up to 8 cards.
Use as a door lock. $65. Melbourne
9806 0110.
PC CONTROLS: AF Generators, I/O
Cards, Temperature Measurement,
Data Logging. Plus ActiveX. SOFTMARK, phone/fax 02 9482 1565 http://
www.ar.com.au/~softmark
THE LOGIC ANALYSER KIT will stay
at $750 ($800 - NZ). Ph 02 9878 4715.
peter.baxter<at>tantau.com.au
www.tantau.com.au
RAIN BRAIN AND DIGI-TEMP KITS: 8
station sprinkler controllers, 60 channel
temp monitor uses DS1820s over 500
metres. Has PC Data logging. Mantis
Micro Products,
http://www.home.aone.net.au/mantismp
SINGLE-CABLE-SOLUTIONS 5 mm
dia for Video, Audio & Power Supply
from 40 Cents / metre ! NEW 16 mm
BOARD & 25 mm PINHOLE LENSES
Full-Screen “Head & Shoulders” or
“Cash Drawer” shots <at> 3.5 metres !
BUNDLED DIY PAKS: FOUR Cameras,
Switcher & Power Supply from $506 !
With 14 Inch Monitor from $636 ! With
MULTIPLEXER for FULL-FRAME
FULL-RESOLUTION RECORDING
from $1196 ! FOUR COLOUR CAMERAS, SWITCHER & POWER SUPPLY
from $873 ! WITH COLOUR QUAD 4
Pix 1 Screen from $1271 ! With MULTIPLEXER $2099 ! JAPANESE CS
LENSES from $51 ! HIGH RESOLUTION QUADS 720 x 576 (Better than
SUPER-VHS Quality) Time & Date from
$313 ! COLOUR QUADS from $503 !
COLOUR DUPLEX MULTIPLEXERS
from $1329 ! 14 Inch MONITORS from
$218 ! With Inbuilt 4 Ch SWITCHER
from $256 ! SEE-in-the-DARK with our
Combination CAMERA INFRARED
ILLUMINATOR Kit from $170 ! PCB
MODULES from $78 ! PREMIUM
SONY CCD & CHIPSET 480 + Line
x 0.05 Lux 32 x 32 PCB MODULES
from $91 ! CAMERAS: Mini from $88
! Dome from $91 ! COLOUR DIGITAL
SIGNAL PROCESSING CAMERAS
& MODULES: 400 + Line from $180 !
DOME from $185 ! 480 + Line DOME
with SONY CCD from $246 ! 600 + Line
from $346 ! PREMIUM High Resolution
600 + Line (Better than SUPER-VHS
Quality) High Sensitivity 0.2 Lux (with
Slow Scan) COLOUR CAMERAS from
$455 ! 30 + Lenses 2.1 to 16 mm INCLUDING JAPANESE VARIABLE FOCAL LENGTH. 50 LED DIY Infra Red
Kits only $19 ! Quads 4 Pix 1 Screen
from $280 ! ALSO: Outdoor Housings,
Brackets, Dummy Cams, CCTV-TV/
VCR Interface Modules, Motorised
Pan Units etc. 400 page CCTV BOOK
$95 or FREE ! DISCOUNTS: Based on
ORDER VALUE, BUYING HISTORY,
for CASH/CHEQUE & NZ BUYERS !
BEFORE YOU BUY Ask about our New
Enquiry Offer & visit our Web Site at
www.allthings.com.au Allthings Sales
& Services. Ph 08 9349 9413 Fax 08
9344 5905.
Positions At Jaycar
We are often looking for enthusiastic
staff for positions in our retail stores
and head office at Rhodes in Sydney.
A genuine interest in electronics is a
necessity. Phone 02 9743 5222 for
current vacancies.
KITS-R-US
PO Box 314 Blackwood S.A.
Ph/fax 08 8270 3175
FMTX2A Universal Stereo Coder $49
FMTX2B 30mW Xtal Locked 100MHz Transmitter $49
FMTX1 1-3 Watt Free Running Transmitter $49
FMX1 200mW Full Broadcast Transmitter, built & tested $499
FM220 10-18 Watt FM BGY133 Philips Linear $499
FM1525 25 Watt Discrete Linear FM Band $499
FM2100 110 Watt Discrete Linear FM Band $699
FM3000 300 Watt Discrete Linear FM Band $1499
Philips 828E/A VHF Receiver Boards (6 metres) $9
AWA 721 VHF Receiver Boards (2 metres) $9
AWA 721 VHF transmitter boards 1 watt (2 metres) $19
Philips 323 UHF transmitter boards 500mW (70cm) $19
AEM 35 Watt Little Brick Audio Power Amp $15
Digi-125 200W RMS Audio Power Amp $39
CA Clipper Compiler, new in box $49
6dBd Gain Colinear FM Band Antenna $999
Roll Smart-1 FM Station Audio Processor $999
Free catalog on disk of discounted surplus components
Same day shipping, credit cards OK, circuits supplied.
SPECIAL STEAM
BOAT KITS $14
SOLAR PANELS: manufacturers surplus. Siemens polycrystaline cells on a
plastic frame 55mm by 160mm. 1 Watt,
5.7V, 0.22A. CALL FOR DATA SHEET.
Priced from $5 to $10 each depending
on quantity. Dealer enquiries welcome.
(02) 6628 2000.
Silvertone’s RC Receiver
Still the best little performer available!
Need prototype PC boards?
We have the solutions – we print electronics!
Four-day turnaround, less if urgent; Artwork from your own
positive or file; Through hole plating; Prompt postal service; 29
years technical experience; Inexpensive; Superb quality.
Printed Electronics, 12A Aristoc Rd,
Glen Waverley, Vic 3150.
Phone: (03) 9545 3722; Fax: (03) 9545 3561
Call Mike Lynch and check us out!
We are the best for low cost, small runs.
SOLAR PANELS: buy by mail and
save! 75 watt from $590.00, unbreakable s/steel 64 watt $555.00. Largest
manufactured: 120 watt $995.00, flexible 32 watt $475.00. All other sizes
available, top brands, lowest prices.
INVERTERS: budget inverters from
$110.00 (12V 140W). High quality pure
sine wave inverters from $390.00. Call
with your requirements.
WIND GENERATORS: wide variety
available, call with requirements.
TASMAN ENERGY Free call 1800
226626
ELECTRONICS FOR BEGINNERS
COURSES including DC & AC principles
and operational amplifiers. Enquiries:
02 9130 7988.
Satellite TV Reception
International satellite TV reception in
your home is now
affordable. Send for
your free info pack
containing equipment
catalog, satellite lists, etc or call for
appointment to view. We can display
all satellites from 76.5° to 180°.
AV-COMM P/L, 198 Condamine St,
Balgowlah, NSW 2093.
Tel: 02 9949 7417 or 9948 2667.
Fax: 9949 7095; www.avcomm.com.au
Still only $129.50 AM or $149.50 FM.
May be used with most ppm transmit‑
ters. This and many other radio control
products available from:
Silvertone Electronics, PO Box 580,
Riverwood 2210.
Phone/Fax (02) 9533 3517.
www.silvertone.com.au
WORKBOOK FOR SALE: “Electronics
for Beginners Stage 1, DC Electrical
Principles” Phone 02 9130 7988.
Win $500USD cash dontronics.com
SPEAKERWORKS: specialist in speaker repairs and parts. DIY refoam kits:
31/2", 4", 5", 6", 7", 8", 9", 10", 11", 12"
and 15" $39.95. Includes shims, dustcaps and adhesive. Largest inventory
of cones, surrounds, gaskets, spiders,
dustcaps, grilles, foam and cloth and
4,700 custom voice coils. Phone 02
9420 8121, Fax 9420 8131.
WEATHER STATIONS: Windspeed &
direction, inside temperature, outside
temperature & windchill. Records highs
& lows with time and date as they occur.
$420.00 complete plus sales tax if appli
cable. Optional rainfall and PC interface.
Used by Government Departments,
farmers, pilots, and weather enthusiasts.
Other models with barometric pressure,
humidity, dew point, solar radiation, UV,
MAY 1999 95
Silicon Chip Binders
Keep your copies safe, secure and always
available with SILICON CHIP binders:
they’re cheap insurance!
REAL
VALUE
AT
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PLUS P
&P
Heavy board covers with 2-tone
green vinyl covering
Advertising Index
Altronics................................. 34-36
Av-Comm Pty Ltd.........................95
Bainbridge Technologies..............60
Computronics Corporation..........89
Each binder holds up to 14 issues so
that you can include catalogs
Dick Smith Electronics........... 12-15
SILICON CHIP logo printed in goldcoloured lettering on spine & cover
EMC Technologies.......................89
Emona Instruments.....................89
Price: $12.95 plus $5 p&p each
(available Aust. only)
Evatco..........................................87
Order by phoning (02) 9979 5644 & quoting your credit card number; or fax the
details to (02) 9979 6503; or mail your order with cheque or credit card details to
Silicon Chip Publications, PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097.
Harbuch Electronics....................55
Instant PCBs................................95
Jaycar ................................... 45-52
leaf wetness, etc. Just phone, fax or
write for our FREE catalogue and price
list. Solar Flair/Ecowatch ph: (03) 5968
4863 fax: (03) 5968 5810, PO Box 18,
Emerald, Vic., 3782. ACN 006 399 480.
A NEW address for Acetronics
http://www.acetronics.com.au
On-line PCB quotes, free software, DIY
PCB supplies plus many other items &
services. 02 9743 9235.
RTN Australia Parallax distributor:
Basic Stamps BS1, BS2, BS2-SX all ex
stock. Chipsets also available for high
volume applications. SX development
tools and chips also available. New super BS1/2 development board Oz made
now available. Custom I/O extender
chips for the Basic Stamps. Serial Led
driver kits, a/d kits, temperature kits,
etc. FerretTronics servo and stepper
motor chips. TiePie HandyScope HS2,
Dos and Win software included. Ph/Fax
(03) 9338 3306.
Email: nollet<at>mail.enternet.com.au
Http://people.enternet.com.au/~nollet
PCBS MADE, ONE OR MANY. Low
prices, hobbyists welcome. Sesame
Electronics (02) 9554 9760
sesame<at>internetezy.com.au; http://
members.tripod.com/~sesame_elec
1A LASER DIODE DRIVER, 3W head
laser power monitor, IR laser diode with
housing, greatly reduced price, e-mail
lmatthee<at>perthpcug.org.au for details and pictures.
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS for all
magazine projects, then goto http://
www.cia.com.au/rcsradio
RCS Radio – Bexley (+61 2) 9587 3491.
KIT ASSEMBLY
ANY KITS assembled/calibrated:
professional, speedy service. Phone
Neville Walker (07) 3857 2752.
Kits-R-Us.....................................95
Microgram Computers..............7,89
MicroZed Computers...................89
Nucleus Computer Services........89
Oatley Electronics...................31,89
Printed Electronics................. 89,95
Questronix...................................89
RobotOz......................................89
Silicon Chip Back Issues....... 78-79
Silicon Chip Binders/Wallcht....OBC
Silicon Chip Bookshop...............IBC
Silicon Chip Model Railway Book.88
Silicon Chip Subscriptions...........44
Silvertone Electronics..................95
Smart Fastchargers.....................55
Solar Flair/Ecowatch....................95
HELP SAVE THE NIGHT SKY!
We are losing our heritage of starry night skies. Poor, inefficient
outdoor lighting is causing glare and “light pollution”. This wastes
energy and increases greenhouse gas emissions.
You can help by joining SYDNEY OUTDOOR LIGHTING IMPROVEMENT SOCIETY (SOLIS). SOLIS aims to educate and inform about
quality outdoor lighting and its benefits. We also lobby councils, government and other bodies to promote good lighting practice. SOLIS meetings
are held third Monday night of each month at Sydney Observatory.
Individual membership is $20 pa. Donations are also welcome. Cheques payable
to “SOLIS c/- NSAS”, PO Box 214, West Ryde 2114.
Email: tpeters<at>pip.elm.mq.edu.au
96 Silicon Chip
Zoom EFI Special......................IFC
_____________________________
PC Boards
Printed circuit boards for SILICON
CHIP projects are made by:
• RCS Radio Pty Ltd, 651 Forest
Rd, Bexley, NSW 2207. Phone (02)
9587 3491.
• Marday Services, PO Box 19-189,
Avondale, Auckland, NZ. Phone (09)
828 5730.
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SEE PAGE 44
EMC For Product
Designers*
By Tim Williams. First published
1992. Second edition 1996.
Widely regarded as the standard
text on EMC, this book provides
all the information necessary to
meet the requirements of the EMC
Directive. It includes chapters
on standards, measurement
techniques and design principles,
including layout and grounding,
digital and analog circuit design,
filtering and shielding and
interference sources. The four
appendices give a design checklist
and include useful tables, data and
formulae. 299 pages, in soft cover
at $95.00.
Understanding
Telephone Electronics*
By Stephen J. Bigelow.
Third edition published 1997 by
Butterworth-Heinemann.
This is a very useful text for
anyone wanting to become familiar
with the basics of telephone
technology. The 10 chapters
explore telephone fundamentals,
speech signal processing,
telephone line interfacing, tone and
pulse generation, ringers, digital
transmission techniques (modems
& fax machines) and much more.
Ideal for students. 367 pages, in
soft cover at $55.00.
Guide To Satellite TV*
Installation, Reception & Repair.
By Derek J. Stephenson. First
published 1991, reprinted 1997
(4th edition).
This is a practical guide on the
installation and servicing of
satellite television equipment,
including antenna installation
and alignment. The coverage of
the subject is extensive, without
excessive theory or mathematics.
383 pages, in hard cover at
$60.00.
Audio Electronics*
By John Linsley Hood. First
published 1995. Second edition
1999.
This book is for anyone involved
in designing, adapting and using
analog and digital audio equip‑
ment. It covers tape recording,
tuners and radio receivers,
preamplifiers, voltage amplifiers,
audio power amplifiers, compact
disc technology and digital audio,
test and measurement, loudspeaker crossover systems, power
supplies and noise reduction
systems. 375 pages in soft cover
at $79.00.
Digital Audio & Compact
Disc Technology*
Produced by the Sony Service
Centre (Europe). 3rd edition,
published 1995.
This is the best book on compact
disc technology that we have
ever come across. It covers
digital audio in depth, including
PCM adapters, the Video8 PCM
format and R-DAT. If you want to
understand digital audio, you need
this reference book. 305 pages, in
paperback at $90.00.
The Art of Linear Electronics*
By John Linsley Hood. Published
1993.
This is a practical handbook from
one of the world’s most prolific
audio designers, with many of his
designs having been published in
English technical magazines over
the years. A great many practical
circuits are featured – a must for
anyone interested in audio design.
336 pages, in paperback at $80.00.
Servicing Personal
Computers*
By Michael Tooley. First pub
lished 1985. 4th edition 1994.
Computers are prone to failure
from a number of common causes
& some that are not so common.
This book sets out the principles
& practice of computer servicing
(including disc drives, printers &
monitors), describes some of the
latest software diagnostic routines
& includes program listings. 387
pages in hard cover at $90.00.
Guide to TV &
Video Technology*
By Eugene Trundle. First
published 1988. Second edition
1996.
Eugene Trundle has written for
many years in Television magazine
and his latest book is right up date
on TV and video technology. The
book includes both theory and
practical servicing information and
is ideal for both students and
technicians. 382 pages, in
paperback, at $55.00.
Title
Price
EMC For Product Designers
$95.00
Understanding Telephone Electroni cs
$55.00
Guide to Satell ite TV
$60.00
Daytime Phone No._______________________Total Price $A _________
Audio Electroni cs
$79.00
Cheque/Money Order Bankcard Visa Card MasterCard
Digital Audio & Compact Di sc Technology
$90.00
The Art Of Linear Electroni cs
$80.00
Servi cing Personal Computers
$90.00
Guide to TV & Vi deo Technology
$55.00
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Or call (02) 9979 5644 & quote your credit card details; or fax to (02) 9979 6503.
Postage: add $5.00 per book. Orders over $100
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