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September 1999 1
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Once oscilloscopes were heavy and clumsy to handle but over the years
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than a pencil and about as thick as your thumb!
Despite its small size, its performance can match that of a service oscilloscope.
With a sampling rate of up to 20MS/s even signals in microprocessor circuits
can be recorded. Using its voltmeter function, numeric AC and DC voltages can
be easily measured.
The osziFOX has many uses. It can be used for taking measurements in amplifiers, digital circuits, telephone installations, hobby electronics, production-line
tests, servicing and on-the-spot measuring.
With the supplied software for DOS and Windows (3.1x & Win95) recorded
signals can be shown simultaneously on a PC screen using the supplied interface cable. For documentation purposes, the recorded signals can be saved to
disk or printed.
Technical Specifications
Sample rates:
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50µs, 0.1ms, 0.5ms, 1ms
Input ranges:
1V, 10V, 100V
No of channels:
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Trigger:
Internal, external
Resolution:
6 bit
Buffer size:
Voltmeter
Display
Supply voltage:
PC connection:
Accessories:
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Contents
Vol.12, No.9; September 1999
FEATURES
4 Automatic Addressing On TCP/IP Networks
Setting up a DHCP server plus WINS & DNS explained – by Greg Swain &
Bob Dyball
9 BreezeNet: Wireless Networking Without The Hassles
You simply plug it in and it works – by Greg Swain
42 Internet Access – Reduced Prices
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Autonomouse The Robot –
Page 18.
PROJECTS TO BUILD
18 Autonomouse The Robot
Automatically avoids objects and flashes two light chasers to show what it’s
doing – by John Clarke
35 Voice Direct Speech Recognition Module
Train it to recognise your voice! – by Ross Tester
63 Digital Electrolytic Capacitance Meter
Test electrolytic capacitors up to 999,900µF – by Eugene W. Vahle Jr
Voice Direct Speech Recognition
Module – Page 35
72 An XYZ Table With Stepper Motor Control; Pt.5
Building the power supply and drilling your first board – by Rick Walters
86 A Peltier-Powered Can Cooler
Keep your tinnies (or anything else) cool this summer – by Ross Tester
SPECIAL COLUMNS
30 Serviceman’s Log
Hindsight is a wonderful thing – by the TV Serviceman
Digital Electrolytic Capacitance
Meter – Page 63.
53 Vintage Radio
Vintage hifi stereo AM radio – by Rodney Champness
DEPARTMENTS
2 Publisher’s Letter
44 Subscriptions Form
58 Circuit Notebook
80 Product Showcase
81 Electronics Showcase
91 Ask Silicon Chip
93 Notes & Errata
94 Market Centre
96 Advertising Index
Peltier-Powered Can Cooler –
Page 86.
September 1999 1
PUBLISHER’S LETTER
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Production Manager
Greg Swain, B.Sc.(Hons.)
Technical Staff
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Bob Young
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2 Silicon Chip
Email us with your ideas
for editorial content
Each month as we produce SILICON CHIP
we try to give a wide range of projects and
articles to keep readers interested and satisfied. It is clear that a large number of you
are stimulated and entertained by what you
read. But there is always the possibility that
we could be doing more to satisfy readers
and within the limits of our resources, that
is what we want to do.
Given that we do have limited resources,
could we be making better use of them in producing the articles for this magazine? What do
you think? For example, many of the project
articles in SILICON CHIP are quite long and detailed. Autonomouse the Robot in this month’s issue is one example and the article will be continued
next month.
The XYZ Plotter is another example of a very big project that has taken a
lot of articles to fully present. And there are a number of significant articles
to be featured in the coming months which are similarly detailed and have
taken a lot of work for us to develop and describe.
Do you as readers appreciate all this detail or would you prefer to see more
articles with a lot less detail? Maybe just a PC board and not much else?
And would you prefer to have fewer project articles and more articles on
technical developments? And what about other areas of electronics? What
about solar and renewable energy, electric cars or whatever?
In the past, we would have taken the trouble to put a reader survey in
the magazine and then hope that enough people would fill it in to make it
worthwhile. Even so, it would then take months to obtain and collate the
results. And would we be asking the “right” questions? These days so many
of you have email that you can respond almost immediately, if you wish to
give an opinion.
So why not email us with your ideas? Keep them brief and to the point
and they will be acknowledged. If you don’t have email, by all means send
us a letter but we do find it much quicker to answer email than ordinary
letters.
Now we are also aware that people who respond to reader surveys are
often the “committed” readers but we would also like to hear from readers
who only buy SILICON CHIP occasionally. We would like you to buy the
magazine every month, without fail. After all, we need as many magazine
buyers as possible. The more buyers we have, the more resources we will
have to make the magazine bigger and more attractive.
So it’s over to you. Please drop us a line by email or letter and you could
be doing us a big favour because there might be things which are blindingly obvious to you and which we just haven’t twigged to. I look forward to
hearing from you soon.
And finally, on a subject related to important magazine resources, Bob
Flynn, our esteemed draftsman, has retired. On the one hand I wish Bob a
long, happy and fruitful retirement. On the other hand, I regret his departure because it is proving to be difficult to obtain a replacement who can
replicate his thorough approach to circuit layout. The position is still vacant
as I write – see page 41.
Leo Simpson
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Computer Networking with TCP/IP
Automatic addressing
on TCP/IP networks
Manually assigning IP addresses to individual
computers on a network can quickly become a
hassle. The answer is to use DHCP and WINS
servers, so that IP addresses are handed out
automatically each time a machine boots up.
By GREG SWAIN & BOB DYBALL
Non-routable networking protocols
such as NetBeui are fine for small
networks, where you only have a few
PCs hooked up to one or more hubs
and no routers are involved. In fact,
NetBeui is one of the most effective
protocols for up to about 20 people. It’s
fast and easy to configure because you
only have to provide each computer
with a name – no network or logical
addresses are required.
However, it’s not uncommon for
a network to be segmented using
switch
es and routers. This can be
done for any number of reasons but
usually it’s done to filter unnecessary
network traffic from certain sections,
to increase network performance.
Bridges and routers are also often used
to couple large networks in adjacent
buildings together.
And that’s where you run into
Fig.1(a): here’s how to manually set up an IP address under Windows 98. Each
computer on the network must be given a unique IP address, while the Subnet
Mask should be the same for all machines.
4 Silicon Chip
problems with NetBeui. Because it’s
non-routable, network segments on
either side of a router will not be able
to “talk” to each other. To overcome
this problem, a routable protocol such
as TCP/IP must be used.
Although it might initially appear
rather mysterious, TCP/IP isn’t all that
hard to get going – at least, in basic
form. The first step is to install the
TCP/IP protocol (if it hasn’t already
been installed) and you do that via
the Network utility in Control Panel.
The procedure is as follows: load the
utility, click the Add button, select
Protocol, click Add again, select
Microsoft, select TCP/IP and click
OK – see Fig.1
You can now set up the IP address
for the computer by selecting the TCP/
IP protocol (for the network card, not
for a dial-up adapter) and clicking
Fig.1(b): this screen grab shows
how to manually enter IP addresses
under Windows NT. The “Default
Gateway” is the router address if it
exists (otherwise leave it blank).
the Properties button. Note that the
IP address set here is “bound” to the
network card and is non-routable as
far as the Internet is concerned.
Basically, there are three groups of
IP numbers to choose from for private
LANs. These address blocks are as
follows:
10.0.0.0 to 10.255.255.255
172.16.0.0 to 172.31.255.255
192.168.0.0 to 192.168.255.255
When you manually assign IP addresses, each machine must be given
a unique address but the Subnet Mask
must be the same if you want the
machines to “see” each other on the
network. For most networks, a Subnet
Mask of 255.255.255.0 will do just fine
but note that, if you use this, all your
IP addresses must use the same first
three groups of numbers; ie, only the
last number can be varied.
Note also that it’s not usual to end
an IP address in 0 or 255. So, for
example, if you use a Subnet Mask
of 255.255.255.0, you could use IP
addresses ranging from 192.168.1.1
to 192.168.1.254.
Each machine must also be given a
unique NetBios name (or Computer
name), as shown in Fig.2. The Work
group name should be the same for all
machines on the network..
Don’t forget to set up file and printer
sharing on each machine, so that you
can access the desired resources.
The LMHOSTS file
PCs on a network running TCP/IP
need some mechanism to link the IP
address of each machine to its NetBios name. This is known as “name
resolution” and is necessary to allow
computers on the network to communicate with each other.
The reason for this is that users
generally attempt to communicate
with another computer by selecting
its NetBios name. However, before
communication can take place, the
NetBios name must first be translated
into that computer’s IP address.
Two common methods for achieving
this are “broadcast name resolution”
and using an lmhosts file. The first
method involves broadcasting a
query over the network and asking a
named computer to respond with its
IP address. This is quite satisfactory
if there are only a few machines on
the network but generates a lot of
unnecessary traffic on larger networks.
An lmhosts file eliminates the need
Fig.2: each machine on the network
must be given a unique name, while
the Workgroup name must be the
same if you want the machines on a
LAN segment to “see” each other.
Fig.3: Example lmhosts File
# IP Address Computer name
#
192.168.1.1 lister
192.168.1.20 rimmer
192.168.1.40 starbug
192.168.1.80 holly
and don’t do anything.
In practice, all you have to do is create the lmhosts file using a text editor
and copy it to all the machines on the
network. On Windows 9x systems,
this file must be placed in the c:\
windows folder (assuming that that’s
where Windows is installed), while in
Windows NT the file must be in c:\
winnt\system32\drivers\etc.
If you are using Windows 95/98 you
must also select the “Enable DNS”
option in the TCP/IP properties dialog box (see Fig.4) and enter in a host
name (this is usually the same as the
computer name). If you don’t do this,
the system will automatically resort
to broadcast name resolution.
Similarly, for Windows NT, you
have to select “Enable Lmhosts Lookup”. This is done at the WINS Address
tab in the TCP/IP Properties dialog
box – see Fig.5.
Note that each machine on the network must have the same lmhosts file,
otherwise you will run into problems.
IP addressing with DHCP
for these query broadcasts. This is a
simple text file that lists the IP address
of each machine on the network and
its corresponding NetBios name.
Fig.3 shows a sample lmhosts file.
Its format is fairly straightforward. The
lines starting with “#” are comments
Manually assigning IP addresses
and maintaining an lmhosts file is
fine if you only have a few computers on the network. However, it soon
becomes unwieldy if the network is
constantly changing or if you have
more than about 15 computers to
administer. Each time a machine is
added to the network, for example,
the lmhosts file must be altered and
copied to each existing machine.
As you can imagine, it’s all too easy
to assign a new machine with a dupli-
Fig.4: if lmhosts is used, you must
also select the “Enable DNS” option in
the TCP/IP properties dialog box of a
Windows 95/98 client computer,
Fig.5: a Windows NT client computer
must have “Enable Lmhosts Lookup”
selected if you wish to use lmhosts for
name resolution.
September 1999 5
Fig.6(a): setting up
the Scope Properties
for a DHCP server.
In this example, the
server can hand
out IP addresses to
client computers
anywhere in the range
from 192.168.1.10 to
192.168.1.200. The
lease period is set
to one day.
cate IP address or to neglect updating
the lmhosts file on some machines. In
either case, the network will no longer
work correctly. Often too, users want
to take a laptop computer from one
location to another and plug it into
the network but this won’t work with
static IP addresses if the lmhosts files
and/or subnet masks are different.
The solution is to use DHCP, or the
Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol.
This service, which runs on Windows
NT Server, is one of the most convenient ways of handing out IP addresses.
It initially requires more work because
we have to set up a DHCP server but
after that, it’s all plain sailing.
When you set up the DHCP service,
it’s given a range of IP address that can
be handed out to client computers.
The client computers then request an
IP address each time they boot and
this is automatically allocated by the
DHCP server. Because the server keeps
a record of which IP addresses have
been allocated to clients, there is no
chance of duplication.
When a client computer subsequently shuts down, its IP address is
returned to the pool of numbers back
at the DHCP server for later reuse.
This means that there’s no guarantee
you’ll be given the same IP address
each time your machine boots up but
at least you will be the only one with
the IP address that is assigned.
This scheme has several other
advantages. First, you don’t have to
manually set a static IP address for
each machine on the network. Second, you don’t have to maintain the
lmhosts files across the network. And
third, it makes it very easy to move a
computer from one part of a network
to another since it will ask for and be
automatically assigned an IP address
when it boots.
OK, so that’s it in a nutshell. In
practice, it’s a bit more complicated
than that (it always is).
Each time, the DHCP server issues
an IP address, it does so for a set
“lease” period. This lease period is
configured at the server and can last
for anything up to several days. During
the lease period, the client computer
contacts the DHCP server and requests that the lease be extended. If
everything is OK, the server then renews the lease on the same IP address
and restarts the clock.
So what happens if the client computer is shut down and then rebooted
during the lease period? In that case,
the client remembers that the previous
lease hadn’t expired and so it asks for
the same IP address again. Because an
IP address is reserved for a particular
client for the duration of the lease,
the DHCP server complies with the
request and re-issues the address with
the lease starting over again.
If the lease expires, a new IP address
is issued to the client the next time it
boots up. Similarly, if the DHCP server
is reconfigured during the lease, the
client’s request for an extension will
be rejected and a new address will
be issued.
Setting up a DHCP server
We won’t go into all the details
of setting up a DHCP server here,
although the procedure is fairly
straightforward for a simple network.
Basically, you need Windows NT
Server or a Linux server to set up the
service. This server must be given a
static IP address (eg, 192.168.1.1).
If you don’t have either of these
operating systems, there are several
shareware programs that let you set up
a Windows 95/98 system as a DHCP
server – see panel.
In Windows NT Server, you install
DHCP by first loading the Network
utility in Control Panel, then clicking
the Services tab, clicking the Add
button and selecting “Microsoft DHCP
Server” from the list and clicking OK.
Fig.6(b): the DHCP Options dialog boxes let you specify the IP addresses of any other devices on the network, such as
routers, WINS servers and DNS servers. In this example, we’ve added a router and specified its IP address as 192.168.1.2.
6 Silicon Chip
Fig.7: a Windows 98 system is set up
as a DHCP client as shown here. By
selecting the option shown, the client
will obtain a unique IP address from
the DHCP server each time it boots.
The installation routine creates a new
shortcut labelled “DHCP Manager” in
the Administrative Tools folder of the
Start menu.
Once the DHCP service has been
installed, you then specify the Scope
Properties. This sets the range of IP
addresses that the server can hand
out to clients for a particular subnet.
Fig.6(a) shows the Scope Properties
dialog box from the DHCP Manager on
Windows NT Server system. In this
case, the range of IP addresses that
can be passed out to client computers starts at 192.168.1.10 and ends at
192.168.1.200. The lease duration has
been set to one day.
Other dialog boxes let you specify
the IP addresses of other devices on
the network, such as routers or WINS
or DNS servers – see Fig6(b).
By the way, if network reliability is
critical, you need to install more than
one DHCP server so that the network
will still function if a server fails. In
that case, you configure each server
with a segment of the range of allowable IP addresses. These segments must
not overlap, otherwise the system
could issue the same IP address to
more than one computer.
DHCP client configuration
Unlike the server side of things,
Windows 95/98 and Windows NT
Workstation computers can all be set
up as DHCP clients without the need
for additional software. Once set up,
they will request an IP address from a
Fig.8: configuring a DHCP client on a Windows NT system. The gateway address
corresponds to a router (if it exists).
DHCP server each time they boot. Fig.7
shows how a Windows 98 system is
configured, while Fig.8 shows the settings for a Windows NT DHCP client.
You get to the Windows 95/98
TCP/IP Properties dialog box by first
double-clicking the Network icon in
Control Panel, then double-clicking
the TCP/IP entry for the network card.
Make sure that the “Obtain an IP address automatically” option is selected
if you want the machine to request IP
addresses from the DHCP server.
A Windows NT system is set up in
similar fashion.
Windows Internet Name Service (WINS)
Often used in conjunction with
DHCP, WINS is a dynamic database
that’s used to translate NetBios names
into IP addresses.
Without WINS, name resolution
takes place either by: (1) broadcasting
a query over the network and asking
a named computer to respond with
its IP address; or (2) checking a local
lmhosts file (if one is present). As
mentioned previously, the first meth
od can create a lot of unnecessary
traffic and in any case, is limited to
a local network segment. The second
has all the administrative problems
discussed previously.
As with DHCP, WINS is provided with Windows NT Server. After
set-up, client computers contact the
WINS server each time they boot and
register their name and allocated IP
address. This means that a WINS serv-
Getting It Together: The Software Required
Windows NT Server will allow you to run any or all of these services; ie,
DHCP, WINS and DNS. If you don’t have NT Server, consider Linux as an
alternative, as you can run DHCP and DNS with the standard Linux or use
WINS under Samba server.
Linux is not yet for the faint-hearted, though. Be prepared for a steep
learning curve and lots of manual text-mode configuration files.
Windows 95/98 users should check out some of the shareware sites on
the Internet for suitable software. These sites include www.download.com,
www.winfiles.com and www.tucows.com
One popular product is WinGate, which runs under Windows 95/98/NT
and provides DHCP and DNS server capability. WinGate can also function
as a firewall and as a proxy server, to allow multiple users on a network to
connect to the Internet via a single modem. To find out more about WinGate,
point your web browser to www.jantek.com.au
September 1999 7
must select “Enable WINS Resolution”
and manually enter the IP address(es)
of the WINS server(s) on each client
computer. Fig.10 shows how to do
this. As with DHCP, it pays to have a
more than one WINS server to ensure
network reliability.
Domain Name Server (DNS)
Fig.9: here’s how to set up the WINS configuration on a Windows 95/98 client
computer if you have a DHCP server.
er automatically updates its database
whenever computers are added to or
removed from the network. When a
client computer needs to resolve a
NetBios name, it contacts the WINS
server, which then hands out the IP
address for that name.
In effect, WINS is the dynamic
equivalent of an lmhosts file. Because
a client computer always attempts
to contact a WINS server first for
name resolution, the need for query
broadcasts or lmhosts file checking is
eliminated.
Setting up WINS
WINS is installed on an NT Server
machine in exactly the same way as
DHCP. After that, it’s a matter of config
uring each of the client computers to
use WINS for name resolution.
If you’re also using DHCP, this can
be used to supply the primary (and
secondary, if it exists) WINS server
address to client computers that ask
the DHCP server for an IP address.
This saves you from having to type in
the WINS server address(es) on each
of the client computers.
Fig.9 shows how to set up the WINS
Configuration on a Windows 98 client
Fig.10: if you don’t have a DHCP
server, you will have to enter the IP
address(es) of the WINS server(s) on
each client computer, as shown here.
computer if you have a DHCP server.
It’s just a matter of selecting the “Use
DHCP for WINS Resolution” option.
Of course, you must also use the DHCP
Manager to supply IP addresses to the
WINS servers and to hand these out
to the clients.
If you don’t have DHCP, then you
Fig.11: Example hosts File For Windows 98/NT
127.0.0.1
192.168.1.1
192.168.1.20
192.168.1.40
192.168.1.80
8 Silicon Chip
localhost
lister.reddwarf.home
rimmer.reddwarf.home
starbug.reddwarf.home
holly.reddwarf.home
Oh, no! – not another naming system! Well, yes but this one’s somewhat different from WINS because
it allows your system to look up,
or “resolve”, a domain name (eg, www.
microsoft.com) and translate this to an
IP address. Currently, this would give
you 207.46.130.14 as the IP address
for Microsoft’s web site.
In practice, this means that a web
site on the Internet can be given a
friendly address and you don’t have
to worry about typing in its IP address.
Instead, a Domain Name Server (DNS)
looks up the IP address for you.
You don’t have to worry about
installing a DNS if you only wish to
access the Internet, since this will be
taken care of by your Internet Service
Provider (ISP). However, you may
want to set up a DNS if you wish to
run a private intranet.
Alternatively, if the network is
only small and you are using static
IP addresses, you can resolve domain
names using a hosts file. This works
in a similar manner to an lmhosts file
(which resolves computer or NetBios
names), except that you list the host
names next to the IP address. Fig.11
shows a sample hosts file.
Note that, as with lmhosts, you
must select the Enable DNS option in
the TCP/IP Properties dialog box for
Windows 95/98. A similar situation
applies to Windows NT.
By the way, Windows NT server’s
implementation of DNS allows direct
look-up of the NetBios names from
WINS. If this is enabled, it can make
quite a powerful system whereby users
are able to find others either by their
NetBios name (eg, “Rimmer”) or by
their Fully Qualified Domain Name
(eg, www.siliconchip.com.au).
Finally, this article should only
be considered as an introduction
to DHCP, WINS and DNS. TCP\IP
addressing is really quite a complicated subject and you can buy complete textbooks on this topic. And,
of course, it all becomes much more
complicated when you throw in a
SC
dial-up adapter.
The BreezeNet demonstration system came
with an SA-10D Station Adapter, an AP-10D
Access Point, an SA-PCR PC Card and
several external antennas but you can order
individual components to suit your special
requirements. The laptop computer came
from SILICON CHIP.
Wireless networking
without the hassles
Designed for use in professional installations,
the BreezeNET wireless networking system
is a cinch to install and get going. You don’t
need any special driver files with this system;
you just plug it into standard network cards
and hubs and it works.
By GREG SWAIN
Want to network different buildings
in a school, a university campus or a
factory? A wireless LAN (local area
network) can make the job easy and
often costs less than a conventional
wired LAN.
When you think about it, a wireless
LAN has a lot of advantages. First and
foremost is the fact that you don’t
have to install cabling – a job that’s
often frustrating and awkward (try
running cable under concrete paths
and roadways, for example). On the
other hand, a wireless LAN can easily
bridge the gap between computers, be
they in different rooms, on different
floors or in different buildings!
Second, unlike wired LANs, your
computers are no longer tied to a
particular point. When you have a
wireless LAN, they can be easily
moved from one location to another.
A wireless LAN even permits “roaming”, which can be very useful if you
want to trundle a laptop around a
warehouse or factory floor, for exam
ple.
Third, a wireless system makes it
easy to connect additional computers
to the network, anywhere and at any
time. All you have to do is connect the
appropriate transceiver to the computer, configure it as for a conventional
wired LAN, and you’re in business.
BreezeNET PRO.11
The BreezeNET PRO.11 system is
intended for professional installations. Unlike some wireless networkSeptember 1999 9
EXISTING WIRED LAN
REMOTE WIRELESS LAN
SA-40
HUB
ACCESS POINT
(AP-10)
SA-PC
SA-10
SA-10
ing systems, it’s easily connected to
a conventional wired LAN (Ethernet)
and is not restricted for use as a standalone system.
This means that you could use
BreezeNET to “connect” one or more
computers to a conventional wired
LAN, or to “connect” several individual wired LANs together. These
wired networks could be on different
floors of a building or even in different
buildings, for example. You can also
use BreezeNET to connect several
wireless cells together and to connect
these to a wired LAN.
BreezeNET operates at 3Mb/s (maximum) in the licence-free 2.4GHz
band and has a range of 50-200 metres
in office environments or about 600
metres in free air using the standard
2dBi external antennas. This increases to about 800 metres in free air using a 6dBi omnidirectional external
antenna and to 2.4km with an 18dBi
unidirectional antenna.
Actually, it’s possible to push the
range out to about 30km by employing
booster amplifiers and low noise amplifiers (LNAs) to drive separate highgain transmit and receive antennas.
These amplifiers and antennas are all
part of the BreezeNET equipment lineup. Of course, when you’re talking
about this sort of range, the services of
WIRED ETHERNET
ACCESS POINT 1
ACCESS POINT 2
ACCESS POINT 3
OVERLAPPING CELLS
Fig.2: two or more access points can be positioned to create overlapping
cells. This allows a workstation (eg, a laptop) to be moved across cells
without losing its network connection. It also allows a workstation in an
overlap area to communicate with two Access Points for load sharing
and, if necessary, to extend network coverage.
10 Silicon Chip
Fig.1: BreezeNet
can be used to
create a stand-alone
wireless network or
to link a wireless
network to an
existing wired LAN,
as shown here.
Each Station
Adapter (SA-10,
SA-40) plugs into
a conventional
network card which
makes the system
easy to set up.
an RF engineer are required to ensure
correct installation and compliance
with regulations.
In its most basic form, the Breeze
NET system consists of an SA-10
PRO.11 Station Adapter, an AP-10
PRO.11 Wireless Access Point and the
necessary antennas. You don’t have
to open up the computers to install
either of these units – they both plug
into the existing Ethernet “backbone”
using Cat.5 cable.
In practice, this means that the PCs
to be networked must be equipped
with conventional network interface
cards (NICs), exactly as for conventional wired LANs. And of course, it’s
also necessary to install the relevant
networking protocols (eg, NetBEUI,
TCP/IP, etc), set up workgroups and
computer names, and share drives and
printers in the conventional manner.
For laptops, you need the SA-PCR
PRO.11 Wireless PC Card Adapter.
This clever little device features twin
retractable antennas and plugs into a
PCMCIA Type II expansion slot on the
laptop to provide mobile network access. Unlike the SA-10 station adapter,
which connects to an existing network
card, this device is the network card,
as well as a radio transmitter.
Connecting it up
The SA-10 Station Adapter is connected to the PC’s network interface
card (NIC) via a standard Cat.5 network cable. You can use one station
adapter for each PC but if you have
several machines close together, it
makes more sense to use the SA-40
adapter. This is similar to the SA10 but it has four ports on the back,
which means that it also functions as
a conventional 4-port hub.
Basically, the SA-40 allows up to
four PCs to be connected to the hub to
form a small wired LAN. It then provides these four stations with wireless
access to a remote wired LAN and/or
to other wireless stations.
Wireless access points
Each wireless network must have
at least one AP-10 Wireless Access
Point within its coverage area. The
AP-10 manages the wireless LAN and
is really the “brains” of the system. It
keeps a list of known “wireless” stations and it deals with any messages
it receives in several different ways
(depending on the sources and destination of those messages).
First, if a message that’s destined for
a wireless station is received from the
wired LAN, the AP-10 relays the message to that station. However, if the
message has a destination address that
it doesn’t recognise (eg, if the message
is intended for another wired station),
the AP-10 ignores the message.
On the receiving side, if the AP-10
receives a wireless message that’s
addressed to another wireless unit,
it relays the message to that station
without forwarding it to the wired
LAN. And if it hears a message whose
address it doesn’t recognise, it assumes that the message is for a station
on the wired LAN and forwards it on
accordingly.
This might all seem unnecessarily
complicated but it serves a very useful purpose: it minimises broadcast
traffic, both on the wired LAN and
at an RF level, and that means faster
network operation.
In operation, the AP-10 Access
Point keeps a single address for each
SA-10 station adapter and up to four
addresses for each SA-40. These addresses are registered with the AP-10
when the very first messages are transmitted from the adapters. This means
that the SA-10 won’t work properly if
you attempt to connect it to more than
one PC (eg, via a hub) or, in the case
of the SA-40, to more than four PCs.
In any case, the station adapters are
not designed to plug into hubs; instead, they must be connected directly
AP-10D
WB-10D
SA-40
SA-10
AP-10
AP-10
SA-PC
SA-10
SA-PC
Fig.3: the WB-10 PRO.11 wireless bridge allows LAN segments in adjacent
buildings to be connected. These segments can be either wireless or wired,
or a mixture of both. Ranges of up to several kilometres are possible,
depending on the antenna system used.
to the NICs in the PCs. By contrast,
the AP-10 is designed to plug into a
network hub. It can also be connected
directly to a single PC but in that case
you must use a Cat.5 crossover cable.
By adding extra access points, the
range of the wireless LAN can be
greatly extended. Each access point
covers a certain area (or cell) and by
overlapping adjacent cells, the user
is free to roam between them without
network interruptions – see Fig.2.
In operation, the stations within
the cells choose the best Access Point
to communicate with. They then automatically switch from one access
point to the next as the user moves
between cells.
It’s also possible to co-locate several
AP-10s to share the network traffic
in heavily congested locations. The
stations inside the common coverage
area are automatically equally divided
between the Access Points, so that the
load is shared equally.
Workgroup bridge
What if you want to connect wired
networks located in separate buildings or on separate floors?
BreezeCOM have that covered too,
in the form of the WB-10 PRO.11
Workgroup Bridge. This device plugs
into the local network and transmits
traffic to the second remote network
via an AP-10 Access Point. In this way,
a central LAN could be connected to
one or more remote LANs; eg, on a
university campus.
Technical details
By now, it’s obvious that a lot of
technology is built into this system to
ensure reliable and efficient wireless
For laptops, the SA-PCR wireless PC card functions as both a network card and
a radio transmitter. It features twin antennas which can be retracted when not
in use, to prevent damage.
September 1999 11
Both the SA-10 Station Adapter (left) and AP-10
Access Point can be fitted with dual-diversity
antennas to ensure reliable radio communications.
The receiver circuitry monitors the relative signal
stengths from the two antennas and automatically
switches to the antenna with the best signal.
networking. So let’s take a brief look
at some of the other technical details
of this system.
First, both the SA-10/40 and AP10 units are equipped with dual-diversity antennas. In operation, the
receiver monitors the relative signal
stengths from the two antennas and
automatically switches to the antenna
with the best signal. This technique
effectively combats problems due to
multipath propagation and changing
signal conditions (eg, when a user
with a laptop computer moves about).
BreezeNet also uses “Frequency
Hopping Spread Spectrum” (FHSS)
technology to eliminate interference
from other equipment using this band
and between adjacent units. The technology makes it virtually impossible
for someone else to eavesdrop or to
access an existing network using similar wireless LAN equipment.
In addition, the system complies
with the IEEE 802.11 Wireless LAN
standard which means that it can
operate with other wireless LAN products which comply with this standard.
Software setup
The rear panel of the SA-10 Station Adapter has a single RJ-45 socket (the SA-40
has four). This connects via a standard Cat.5 cable to the network card in
the computer. The monitor (MON.) socket allows the unit to be connected to the
serial port of a PC so that it can be configured using the embedded SNMP (Simple
Network Management Protocol) software.
12 Silicon Chip
Although the BreezeNet PRO.11
wireless networking system operates
immediately after installation, it’s
best to change some of the internal
settings. This is done for security
reasons, as much as any thing else.
In summary, you configure the
Station Adapters and Access Points
using the embedded SNMP (Simple
Network Management Protocol) software. This involves connecting the
MON jack on the rear panel of each
item to the COM port on the PC using
the supplied cable and then running
a terminal emulation program such
as HyperTerminal.
Each AP-10 Access Point on the
Brief Technical Details
Wired LAN Interface
Compliant with:
Physical Interface:
Ethernet/IEEE 802.3 CSMA/CD standard.
10BaseT for AP-10 Access Point, SA-10/40 Station
Adapters & WB-10 Wireless Bridge; PC Card Type II/
PCMCIA 2.1 for SA-PCR/PCD PC Card Adapters
Wireless LAN Interface
Compliant with:
IEEE 802.11 CSMA/CA wireless LAN standard
Radio Specifications
Type:
Frequency hopping spread spectrum (FHSS)
Frequency Range:
2.4-2.4835GHz
Antenna Diversity:
Two antennas selected on a per packet basis
Range
2dBi External Antennas: 50-200 metres from Access Point to Station Adapter in
an office environment; about 600 metres in free air
Other Antennas:
2.4km with 18dBi unidirectional antenna; up to 30km
depending on external antenna and regulations
Data Rate
Over the air
3Mb/s, 2Mb/s & 1Mbs; 15Mb/s aggregate with overlapped cells (maximum number of co-located Access
Points = 15)
network must be given the same “network identifier” (ESS ID) or password.
This prevents unauthorised access by
third parties, unless they happen to
know what the password is.
Alternatively, you might want
to separate two adjacent wireless
networks by deliberately giving the
Access Points different passwords.
In addition, you can set different
frequency hopping sequences for each
Access Point, to minimise channel
collisions, and configure a range of
other parameters such as whether to
use one or both antennas.
Unfortunately, we didn’t get the
chance to evaluate this aspect of the
BreezeNET system, since we were
supplied with a demonstration system
only. This included an SA-10D Station
Adapter, an AP-10D Access Point, an
SA-PCR PC Card (for laptops), several
external antennas, two plugpack power supplies and a manual. We plugged
it in as directed and it all worked, just
like that!
The manual, by the way, is quite
comprehensive and includes sections
on Planning & Installing Wireless
LANs (including multi
ple-hop installations), Accessory Installation,
Wireless LAN Concepts and Radio
Signal Propagation. There are also
tables showing the various antennas
available and the expected ranges
for various data rates (3Mb/s, 2Mb/s
& 1Mb/s).
Where to get it
This 8.5dBi unidirectional external
antenna gives a range of about 2.4km
in free air.
The price of all this technology
doesn’t come cheaply but as previously pointed out, this equipment
is intended for professional installa-
A comprehensive range of external
antennas is available for use with
the BreezeNet wireless networking
system. This 6dBi omnidirectional
antenna gives a range of about 800
metres in free air.
tions. And in many situations, it will
be far cheaper to install a wireless
network (eg, to link buildings) than
a wired network.
You can expect to pay around $2030
for the SA-10 Station Adapter, $3010
for the SA-40 Station Adapter and
$3640 for the AP-10 Access Point. For
further information on the BreezeNet
PRO.11 wireless networking system,
point your web browser to:
www.breezecom.com
The equipment is sold locally by
Namlea Data Systems, 22 Cleg St, Artarmon, NSW 2064. Phone (02) 9439
6966; fax (02) 9439 6965 or email:
SC
ndsonline<at>namlea.com.au
September 1999 13
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
AUTONOMOUSE
HEROBOT
T
Pt 1: By JOHN CLARKE
This clever little robot runs around the floor and stops if
it finds anything in its way. It then turns to one side or the
other and moves forward again. Light chasers run in one
direction or another, depending on what it’s doing.
18 Silicon Chip
Fig.1: the block diagram comprises three main sections: light sensing, forward/reverse motor control and
the light chasers.
A
UTONOMOUSE THE ROBOT is
autonomous – it runs around by
itself without any need for its
controller (you) to direct it in any way.
It will “see” objects in its way and can
turn away from them or reverse to
avoid collisions. It also has a variety
of light displays which vary according
to its actions. Its features include:
• Forward and reverse light chaser.
• Clockwise and anticlockwise turning light chaser.
• Rear flashing light.
• Steers away from objects.
• Reverses from potential collisions.
• Adjustable speed.
• Adjustable sensitivity of object
detection range.
• Object sensing immune to effects
of normal ambient light.
• Automatic slowing before reversing to prevent motor/gear damage.
Autonomouse the Robot moves on
three wheels, with two at the front
and a swivelling castor at the rear. The
side wheels are independently driven
to allow the robot to steer and reverse.
Autonomouse is built as a basic
shell using several PC boards soldered
together. The two “eyes” are located
on the front of the case and provide
the robot with straight-ahead and
peripheral vision. It is dressed with
red transparent acrylic on its front,
top and rear.
Autonomouse will steer away from
an obstacle it detects with its peripheral vision. If this is not effective in
avoiding the object, the robot will
stop, reverse up and turn around. An
object directly in front of the robot
will cause it to reverse up and turn
directly.
When Autonomouse travels forward, a row of eight LEDs at the front
flash sequentially from top to bottom
to show the direction of travel. If
Autonomouse reverses, the LEDs
chase from bottom to top. At the top
of the robot are eight LEDs arranged
in a circle which sequentially chase
clockwise or anticlockwise whenever
it turns left or right. This chaser does
not operate if the robot is going forwards or in reverse.
Fig.1 shows the block diagram of
the Robot. It comprises three main
sections: light sensing, motor control
and the light chasers.
The light sensing section has a
38kHz driver which modulates infrared LEDs. There is an IRLED and
sensor associated with each sensor,
one for the right, one for the centre
and one for the left.
The IR sensors will detect infrared
signals at 38kHz and reject any other
light signals. This makes them much
less sensitive to natural light or other
September 1999 19
Fig.2: the circuit has several sections which are duplicated, such as
the left and right motor drivers, the two 8-LED chasers and the left
and right timers (IC2, IC4).
20 Silicon Chip
September 1999 21
Fig.3: these waveforms show the operation of the 38kHz
drive to the infrared LEDs. The top trace is the output at
pin 3 of IC1 at 4V peak-to-peak. The lower trace is the
voltage at the base of transistor Q1.
Fig.4: these waveforms show the operation of the
infrared detectors. The top trace shows the output
from one of the infrared detectors in the presence
of a relatively strong 38kHz IR signal. The output
is low for most of the time. The lower trace is
the infrared detector output in the presence of a
weaker 38kHz signal. It is low for only some of
the time.
Fig.5 (left): these oscilloscope waveforms show the
operation of IC8a which produces the pulse width drive
for the H-bridge drive circuits to the motors. The lower
trace is the triangle waveform at around 400Hz. This
triangle waveform is compared with the voltage at pin
2, shown by the straight line. The output is the top trace
which goes high whenever the triangle waveform is above
the voltage at pin 2.
light sources such as incandescent
or fluorescent lights which produce
a 100Hz modulated signal. When a
sensor detects a 38kHz signal, it will
produce an output to indicate that
there is an obstruction in the way.
The robot will steer left if it detects
a relatively weak signal from the right
detector and steer right if it detects
a weak signal from the left sensor. If
any of the detectors receive a strong
reflected signal, the robot will reverse
to avoid the obstacle.
Output from the left sensor is used
to trigger right timer IC2 and reverse
timer IC3. Similarly, the right sensor
output triggers the left timer IC4 and
also reverse timer IC3.
When a weak signal is received by
the left infrared detector, the right
timer is triggered but there is insuf22 Silicon Chip
ficient signal to trigger the reverse
timer. A strong signal received by
the left infrared detector will also
trigger the reverse timer. Similarly
a weak signal to the right detector
will only trigger the left timer, but a
strong signal will trigger the reverse
timer as well.
The right timer drives the forward/
reverse circuitry which controls the
right motor. If the right timer is not
triggered by the left infrared detector
then the motor is driven in the for
ward direction. The motor reverses
whenever the right timer is triggered.
The two LED chasers each comprise
an up/down counter (IC10 or IC12)
which drives a one-of-10 decoder
(IC11 or IC13) which then drives
eight LEDs. Reverse timer IC3 makes
the counters count down rather than
count up and this changes the direction of the LED chaser.
Circuit description
Fig.2 shows the full circuit details.
IC1 is powered from a 6V battery via
switch S1a while the other ICs are
powered at 5V via low dropout regulator REG1. The motors are powered
from a separate 6V battery and switch
ed via S1b. We use two battery packs
so that the heavy load drawn from the
motors does not have any effect on
the control circuitry. IC1 is separately
powered from 6V to prevent its oscillation entering the 5V supply rail and
being injected into the very sensitive
infrared detectors IRD1 & IRD2.
IC1 is a 555 timer running at 38kHz
to drive the IR LEDs. The 38kHz
output at pin 3 is clamped to an am-
plitude of 0.6V by diode D1. This is
done to maintain a constant signal
level regardless of the battery voltage.
Following D1, the signal is lightly
filtered with the 3.3kΩ resistor and
.0033µF capacitor and fed to trimpot
VR2 which sets the signal level to
transistor Q1 which functions as an
emitter follower to drive the three
IRLEDs via separate 470Ω resistors.
The oscilloscope waveforms in
Fig.3 show the operation of the 38kHz
drive to the infrared LEDs. The top
trace is the output at pin 3 of IC1 at
4V peak-to-peak. The lower trace is
the voltage at the base of transistor Q1.
Note that the voltage is nominally at
+2.6V with a 360mV 38kHz modulation swing.
Note that each IRLEDs is driven
at a nominal 1.2mA which is then
modulated at 38kHz. This is to make
sure that the 38kHz signal from each
LED is about the same.
The infrared light from the three IR
LEDs is picked up by infrared detectors IRD1 and IRD2. These comprise
an infrared optotransistor, preamp
lifier and 38kHz filter circuitry. A
strong 38kHz infrared signal will
cause the IRD output to go low.
This is shown in the waveforms of
Fig.4. The top trace shows the output
from one of the infrared detectors in
the presence of a relatively strong
38kHz IR signal. The output is low
for most of the time. The lower trace
is the infrared detector output in the
presence of a weaker 38kHz signal. It
is low for only some of the time.
The output from IRD1 triggers the
right timer IC2 via the 27kΩ resistor
and diode D2. Pin 2 of IC2 needs to
be pulled below about +1.7V in order
to switch the timer output at pin 3 to
a high level. This means that the output from IRD1 must be low for more
than 2/3rds of the time. IC2’s output
stays high until pins 2 & 6 reach about
+3.3V and then pin 3 goes low. The
1µF capacitor at pins 2 & 6 effectively
integrates the output of IRD1. So pins
2 & 6 are pulled down by IRD1 and
pulled up by the 390kΩ resistor.
The output from IRD1 also triggers
reverse timer IC3 via diode D3 but
here the filter components at pins 2
& 6 are a 10µF capacitor and a 100kΩ
resistor. These components mean that
the output from IRD1 must be low
most of the time in order to trigger
IC3. In fact, if IRD1’s output were
permanently low, the voltage at pin 2
Parts List
1 PC board, code 08409991, 114 x
145mm (Board 1)
1 PC board, code 08409992, 114 x
128mm (Board 2)
1 PC board, code 08409993, 114 x
72mm (Board 3)
2 motor/gearbox drives (Jaycar
YG-2725)
2 4 x AA cell holders and battery
snaps
8 AA alkaline cells
1 DPDT miniature toggle switch
(S1)
1 plastic panel, 75 x 110 (battery
support panel)
1 piece of double sided PC board,
114 x 69mm (rear panel)
1 piece of single sided PC board,
45 x 105mm (castor bracket)
2 35 x 20mm pieces of PC board
(motor/gearbox mounting)
3 pieces of red transparent acrylic,
60 x 90mm, 60 x 140mm and
60 x 60mm
2 64mm diameter wheels (see
text)
1 30mm furniture castor
12 15mm long tapped spacers
(Perspex or Acrylic mounting)
6 9mm long tapped spacers
(rear Perspex panel and motor
mountings at motor end)
4 6mm long tapped spacers (motor
mounts gear end)
26 M3 x 6mm screws
4 M3 x 15mm screws
5 M3 Nylon insulating washers
(to insulate PC tracks for some
screws and spacers)
1 5mm LED bezel
1 20mm length of 5mm black
plastic tubing (IRLED1 &
IRLED3
1 70mm length of 5 x 0.75mm
sheet brass or equivalent (rear
panel support)
1 500mm length of red hookup
wire
1 500mm length of black hookup
wire
1 300mm length of yellow hookup
wire
1 300mm length of green hookup
wire
1 300mm length of blue hookup
wire
would be +1.5V, just below the 1.67V
threshold. This means the IRD1 must
detect a very strong signal in order to
stay low long enough to trigger IC3.
1 600mm length of 0.8mm tinned
copper wire (links)
29 PC stakes
3 50kΩ (503) horizontal trimpots
(VR1,VR3,VR4)
1 10kΩ (103) horizontal trimpot
(VR2)
Semiconductors
2 IRLED receivers (IRD1-IRD2)
(Jaycar ZD-1952 or equivalent)
3 5mm infrared LEDs (IRLED1IRLED3)
6 555 timers (IC1-IC4,IC7,IC14)
2 4030 quad 2-input XOR gates
(IC5,IC9)
1 4081 quad 2-input AND gate
(IC6)
1 LM393 dual comparator (IC8)
2 4029 4-bit up/down counters
(IC10,IC12)
2 4028 1-of-10 decoders
(IC11,IC13)
16 3mm red LEDs (LEDs1-LED16)
1 5mm red flashing LED (LED17)
1 LM2940-T5 low dropout 5V
regulator (REG1)
4 BC640 PNP transistors (Q2,Q3,
Q10,Q11)
4 BC639 NPN transistors (Q4,Q5,
Q12,Q13)
10 BC338 NPN transistors (Q1,
Q6-Q9,Q14-Q17,Q18)
14 1N914, 1N4148 diodes (D1D14)
Capacitors
1 2200µF 25VW PC electrolytic
2 470µF 25VW PC electrolytic
14 10µF 16VW PC electrolytic
4 1µF 16VW PC electrolytic
4 0.1µF MKT polyester
1 .039µF MKT polyester
1 .0033µF MKT polyester
1 330pF ceramic or MKT polyester
Resistors (1%, 0.25W)
3 390kΩ
8 2.2kΩ
3 100kΩ
3 1kΩ
2 27kΩ
3 470Ω
3 22kΩ
4 56Ω
22 10kΩ
4 22Ω
1 3.3kΩ
Miscellaneous
Double-sided adhesive tape.
The timeout period for IC3 is 2.9
seconds and this sets the reversing
time for the robot. The triggering
time is also significant; it takes one
September 1999 23
Table 2: Capacitor Codes
Value
0.1µF
.039µF
.0033µF
330pF
IEC
104
393
332
331
EIA
100n
39n
3n3
330p
tied high, pin 12 must be low for pin
11 to go high and so IC5a operates as
an inverter. With pin 8 tied low, if pin
9 goes high, so will pin 10 and so IC5b
operates as a buffer or non-inverter.
IC5c is set up as a timer. When its
pin 5 goes high, pin 6 stays low until
the 10µF capacitor charges via the
10kΩ resistor. Thus the output goes
high for this period then goes low.
Similarly, when pin 5 input is taken
low, the output goes high again until
the 10µF capacitor discharges via the
10kΩ resistor.
This output controls the motor
speed voltage at pin 2 of comparator
IC8a via diode D10. It does this by
momentarily pulling the 1µF capacitor voltage high whenever the output
of IC2 changes.
Pulse width modulation
Comparator IC8a provides the pulse
width modulation signal to drive the
right motor. It compares the speed
voltage at its pin 2 with the triangle
waveform at its pin 3. The triangle
waveform is generated by 555 timer
IC7, operating at around 400Hz. If the
voltage at pin 2 is low, the resulting
pulses from the output of IC8a will be
high most of the time (ie, wide pulses)
and the motor will run at full speed.
By pulling pin 2 of IC8a high
whenever the output of IC2 changes
we effectively stop the motor before
applying a reverse voltage.
Fig.6: this is the component overlay for board 2. Note that the IRLEDs and IR
detectors will be angled to optimise collision avoidance.
second for the timer to be triggered
due to the 100kΩ resistor and 10µF
capacitor time constant. The reverse
timer is activated when the robot
encounters a solid obstruction that it
has not been able to avoid by simple
steering manoeuvres.
IRD2 and IC4 operate in the same
way as IRD1 and IC2. IRD2 also triggers IC3 via diode D4.
IC2 drives IC5a, IC5b & IC5c via
diode D6. IC5a, IC5b and IC5c are
2-input exclusive OR (XOR) gates.
The gate outputs only go high when
one input is at a different logic level
to the other. Thus, with pin 13 of IC5a
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
No.
3
3
2
3
22
1
8
3
3
4
4
24 Silicon Chip
Value
390kΩ
100kΩ
27kΩ
22kΩ
10kΩ
3.3kΩ
2.2kΩ
1kΩ
470Ω
56Ω
22Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
orange white yellow brown
brown black yellow brown
red violet orange brown
red red orange brown
brown black orange brown
orange orange red brown
red red red brown
brown black red brown
yellow violet brown brown
green blue black brown
red red black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
orange white black orange brown
brown black black orange brown
red violet black red brown
red red black red brown
brown black black red brown
orange orange black brown brown
red red black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
yellow violet black black brown
green blue black gold brown
red red black gold brown
SMART FASTCHARGERS®
2 NEW MODELS WITH OPTIONS
TO SUIT YOUR NEEDS & BUDGET
Now with 240V AC + 12V DC operation
PLUS fully automatic voltage detection
Use these REFLEX® chargers for all your
Nicads and NIMH batteries: Power tools
Torches Radio equip. Mobile phones
Video cameras Field test instruments
RC models incl. indoor flight Laptops
Photographic equip. Toys Others
Rugged, compact and very portable.
Designed for maximum battery capacity
and longest battery life.
AVOIDS THE WELL KNOWN MEMORY EFFECT.
SAVES MONEY & TIME: Restore most Nicads with
memory effect to capacity. Recover batteries with
very low remaining voltage.
CHARGES VERY FAST plus ELIMINATES THE
NEED TO DISCHARGE: charge standard batteries in
minimum 3 min., max. 1 to 4 hrs, depending on mA/h
rating. Partially empty batteries are just topped up.
Batteries always remain cool; this increases the total
battery life and also the battery’s reliability.
DESIGNED AND MADE IN AUSTRALIA
For a FREE, detailed technical description please
Ph (03) 6492 1368; Fax (03) 6492 1329; or
email smartfastchargers<at>bigpond.com
2567 Wilmot Rd., Devonport, TAS 7310
The oscilloscope waveforms of
Fig.5 show the operation of IC8a. The
lower trace is the triangle waveform
at around 400Hz. This triangle waveform is compared with the voltage at
pin 2, shown by the straight line. The
output is the top trace which goes high
whenever the triangle waveform is
above the voltage at pin 2.
The left motor circuitry, comprising
IC9a, IC9b, IC9c and IC8b, operates in
the same way as just described and
IC8b is fed with the triangle waveform
from IC7.
IC6a and IC6b are AND gates which
have the pulse signal connected to
one of their inputs; they control the
right motor H-bridge circuit, depending on the outputs from IC5b & IC5c.
The H-bridge for the right motor
comprises transistors Q2-Q9. When
IC6a’s output is high, Q6 and Q9 are
on and they turn on Q2 and Q5 which
drive the motor in one direction while
transistors Q3 & Q4 are off.
When IC6b’s output goes high, Q7
& Q8 are turned on and they turn on
Q3 and Q4 to drive the motor in the
opposite direction.
The lefthand motor H-drive circuit
is the same as for the right and uses
transistors Q10-Q17 controlled by
IC6c & IC6d. Both H-drive circuits are
powered from the 6V supply reserved
for the motor drive and they are each
decoupled with 470µF capacitors to
suppress the voltage spikes which can
occur with the pulsing of the motors.
LED17, a flashing LED, is connected
across the battery supply to provide
further visual activity.
LED chasers
The forward/reverse chaser comprises IC10, IC11 & IC14 and LEDs
1-8. IC14 is a 555 timer operating at
• RESELLER FOR MAJOR KIT
RETAILERS
• PROTOTYPING EQUIPMENT
• CB RADIO SALES AND ACCESSORIES
• FULL ON-SITE SERVICE AND
REPAIR FACILITIES
• LARGE RANGE OF
ELECTRONIC DISPOSALS
(COME IN AND BROWSE)
Ph (03) 9723 3860
Fax (03) 9725 9443
Come In & See
Our New Store
M
W OR A
EL D IL
C ER
O
M
E
Board 2 sits on top of the unit, while board 1 sits beneath it and forms the base
of the chassis. Board 3 is mounted vertically, at the front.
ELECTRONIC
COMPONENTS &
ACCESSORIES
Truscott’s
ELECTRONIC WORLD Pty Ltd
ACN 069 935 397
27 The Mall, South Croydon, Vic 3136
email: truscott<at>acepia.net.au
www.electronicworld.aus.as
September 1999 25
Fig.7: this diagram shows the component layouts for boards 1 & 3. Take care to
ensure that the correct part is used at each location.
about 16Hz to clock IC10 which is a
4029 4-bit up/down counter. This has
its pin 9 connected to ground to select
binary coded decimal (BCD) mode so
26 Silicon Chip
that it counts up to 10 only. The up/
down input at pin 10 connects to pin 3
of IC3 which goes high when the robot
is in reverse. Thus, IC10 counts down
when the robot is going forward and
counts up when reversing.
The 4-bit outputs from IC10 connect to IC11, the BCD-to-decimal decoder, and it drives the eight LEDs in
sequence. Why only eight LEDs when
IC11 has 10 outputs available? Well,
we have to let the bean counters have
their way on some occasions so they
got to eliminate two LEDs!
The turning chaser comprises
counter IC12, decoder IC13 and LEDs
9-16. The circuit is very similar to
the forward/reverse chaser but there
are some differences incorporated to
enable the LEDs to be switched off and
also to ensure that during the chase
sequence, at least one LED is always
lit. IC14 clocks IC12 which is set up
as a binary counter with pin 9 tied
high. Thus IC12 counts in a binary
sequence from 1-8 and we use only
three outputs. The Q4 output from IC4
is not connected but we play around
with the D input (pin 11) of IC13 to
make it do what we want.
Taking the D input high prevents
any of the eight LEDs from lighting.
This is because a high D input represents a count beyond 8 and we are
only decoding the first 8 counts; any
count over 8 will not be decoded and
the LEDs will be off.
So the D input is pulled high by the
two 10kΩ resistors associated with
transistor Q18. Q18 is turned on via
diode D12 or D13 when either the left
or right motor timers (IC2 or IC4) have
a high output at pin 3 and so pin 11
of IC13 is pulled low. This starts the
LED chaser sequence, because the
low D input means that the robot is
turning left or right.
The direction of the chaser depends
on the voltage at the up/down input at
pin 10 of IC12. It counts up whenever
the right motor timer (IC2) output is
high. In this case, the up count means
a clockwise rotation of the chaser
since the LEDs are in a circle. If Q18
is turned on via the left timer output,
then the up/down input is low and
the counter counts down and gives an
anticlockwise direction for the chaser.
If the reverse timer, IC3, has a high
output, then the D input to IC13 is
pulled high via diode D14 and the
LEDs go out.
Construction
Autonomouse is built on three PC
boards: Board 1 is coded 08409991
and measures 114 x 145mm; Board
2 is coded 08409992 and measures
114 x 128mm and board 3 is coded
08409993 and measures 114 x 72mm.
A piece of double-sided PC board (114
x 69mm) forms the rear panel.
Fig.8: these are the full-size etching patterns for boards 1 and 3. Check your
boards carefully before installing any of the parts.
The three PC boards and rear panel
board are soldered together to form
the robot body. The front, top and a
section of the rear are covered in red
transparent Acrylic or Perspex to
house the LED chasers and flasher and
are mounted on tapped brass spacers.
The 6V batteries each consist of a
September 1999 27
This view shows how Autonomouse goes
together. The motor/gearbox assembly is
mounted on board 3 (details next month).
Fig.9: actual size artwork for board 2.
28 Silicon Chip
4-AA cell holder and these are mounted on a platform panel measuring
75 x 110 x 2mm which attaches to
board 1 on tapped spacers. The battery holders are held in place with
double-sided adhesive tape.
The two motor/gearbox sets are
located on board 3. They are located
with metal standoffs and held with
brackets made from pieces of PC board
measuring 35 x 20mm.
You can start construction by
checking the three PC boards for defects such as shorts or broken tracks.
Repair these if necessary before assembly. Note that board 1 requires
a couple of notches in its front edge
nearest transistors Q4 & Q12. The
shape of the notches is marked out in
the copper pattern and is necessary
to allow clearance for the screws for
the spacers on board 3.
Figs.6 & 7 show the component
layouts for the three boards. Insert
and solder in all the wire links and
PC stakes on the three boards. The
resistors can be installed next, and
you can use Table 1 as a guide to the
resistor colour codes.
Next, install the ICs, taking care to
mount each in its correct position and
with the correct orientation.
Trimpots VR3 & VR4 should be
mounted on the copper side of board
1 to allow adjustment when the robot
is assembled. VR1 & VR2 are mounted on the top side of board 2 in the
normal manner. The transistors and
diodes can follow, again taking care
with their orientation; don’t get the
BC338s, BD639s and BD640s mixed
up.
The capacitors can be mounted next
and note that the electrolytic types
must be placed with the polarity as
shown. Table 2 shows the relevant
capacitor codes.
All the red LEDs should be mounted with their tops about 12mm above
the board. This will allow clearance
for the red acrylic which is supported
on 15mm spacers. The three infrared
LEDs are mounted at right angles to
the PC board by bending their leads
over in a gentle arc (not with pliers).
The two infrared detectors, IRD1 &
IRD2, are mounted with 1mm of lead
protruding from the copper side of the
PC board; don’t shorten their leads.
That’s all we have room for this
month. In Pt.2, we shall complete the
construction and tell you how to test
SC
your Autonomouse.
Oatley Electronics Shop Now Open Fridays 1pm-4:30pm & Saturdays
LOOK AT THIS 10am-4pm
during September and October as a trial. On sale
RG11 75ohm 250M rolls will be surplus and special sale items only. All regular advertised,
E x t r e m e l y h i g h q u a l i t y catalogue stock and kits must be ordered in advance by Phone,
COMMSCOPE brand. P/N Fax or E-mail and can be paid for and picked up at the shop.
RG11QD. 13mm VERY low loss JUNE SALE!!! Did you miss it? Well you were not the only one!!!
coaxial cable with 4 cores (2 pair) The ads were so small that most people missed them So we are going to run it again
attached. Band-width better than as the Much BIGGER September Sale. To see just what’s on sale just check out
the September Sale link on our new web page or if you have a polling fax you can
1Ghz. $60 per 300M roll
see our text list of sale items on 02 95707910. But don’t forget our web page
USA IEC MAINS LEADS $2
NEW SUPER LOW PRICE + LASER
AUTOMATIC LASER LIGHT SHOW KIT:
MKIII. Automatically changes every 5 - 60
secs. Countless great displays from single
to multiple flowers, collapsing circles,
rotating single and multiple ellipses, stars,
etc. Easy mirror alignment with “Allen
Key”. Kit inc. PCB, all on board components, three small DC motors, mirrors,
precision adjustable
mirror mounts:
(K115) + very
bright 650nM
laser (LM2) module.
Kit with laser module $55
Kit + laser module + plug-pack + instument
style case all at a special price of $70
BARGAIN CORNER where we sell all of our regular specials like run out end of
stock & special one or few of items like A portable medical X-Ray machine for $1500.
SOLAR PANELS ARE BACK
Quality SEIMENS brand Polycrystalline
cells. Voc Isc 1W output. 4 panels req.
$10ea. or 4 for $36
to charge 12V batteries. Specifications:
Open circuit voltage: 5.7v...Short circuit
current: 0.22A...Peak Power: 1.0W <at>
100mW/ sq cm...Dimensions: 160mm x 55mm x 5mm...Flying
lead: Dual cable 25cm long. Should be placed under glass for outdoor use.
NEW ULTRA-SONIC RADAR KIT
+
Just like the top European cars you can fit a
reversing radar that will sound a buzzer or flash a
+
4093
light on your dash to let you know when your car is
+
near another car or object. Inc. adjustable range
+
upto1M output to drive relay or buzzer. kit includes
PCB plus all on-board components including
MOBILE PHONE ANTENNA
Ultra-sonic transducers and buzzer for $16
This antenna kit includes 4 meter
terminated coaxial cable and external OVER $100,000 WORTH OF OFFICE NOW TRY OUR PROFESSIONAL PIC
capasitively coupled on glass antenna SUPPLIES FOR ABOUT 1/4 OF RETAIL. MICRO PROGRAMER
Complete installation kit with glass cleaner. Folders, binders, directory boards + Programs up to 39 different types of PIC
lettering, cork boards, white boards large & chips, Software works under DOS, WIN
340mm long. $5
small, fabric boards, bulletin boards, notice 3.xx and WIN 95, Quick Easy construction,
12V Automotive Relays
with 30A SPDT Contacts (73 ohm relay boards, instant signs, desk signs, flip Connects to Pc’s parallel port. Download
coil). RRP $7. our price $3 ea. 4 for $10 charts + easels and more, Mostly quality fully functional evaluation software from
***NEW***WHITE LED 5mm 3500mcd. Quartet brand products. Sale to be held on the Internet
Very bright Ideal for mini torch etc.... $4 our web site 14 Oct. & at a location to be register for a
announced on 15 &16 Oct. in the small fee. More
***NEW***
Peakhurst / Mortdale area. Do your details on our web page
35-140 LED IR
company / school a favour & tell your MASTHEAD AMPLIFIER KIT SPECIAL
ILLUMINATOR KIT
Purchasing Officer NOW!!!
Based on a low noise (2.8dB noise figure)
Switches on when it gets
240-110 ISOLATION TRANSFORMERS & wide bandwidth (2GHz) amp IC (MARdark or can be controlled by
500 VA, COMPACT METAL CASE, 6), this kit can be used as an active TV
alarm system. Kit includes
FUSED, MAINS LEAD. ONLY$80 antenna. The PCB is divided into two
mount ing tray & universal
sections. The PCB can be cut so that the
swivel mount.35 LEDs $25.
NEW MOSFET STEPPER DRIVER
Extra 35 LED pack (3extra
This kit is designed to work below 5V & supply board can be indoors. The MAR-6
packs max) $14 per pack.
greater than 35V (higher voltage available separately $4. The amp140 LED kit:$67 Ideal for
MOSFETS avail.)Very efficient (very little lifier produces good results with
use with our monochrome
heat) & work with software like DANCAD any two metal wires or strips actcameras to see in the dark.
etc.(for step/dir-ection signals) & is ideal ing for the antenna. It should
for CNC projects. It works well with the even work with a coatKEY-CHAIN LASER POINTER
hanger! Basic kit with both
in a presentation box. Quality
stepper motors in our
the PCBs & all on-board
metal housing + 3X LR44
famous German
parts (K03) $15 ...Basic Kit +
/AG13 bats. FREE.
printer $45 or$35
2 Weather-proof Plastic
Extra bats. 50c Ea.
with new or previous printer purchase
Boxes + plug-pack: $24
Line lens+$0.80...X-hair lens
N E W . . . P C M O T H E R B O A R D (ask for your free case with this item)
+$0.80...Module (no case) only $8 UMC-486 CACHE ISA SX 40Mhz.
Pointer not for sale in NSW.
IRFZ-44...$2.50
Original package, 486-40Mhz CPU, book
NICAD BATTERY PACK
60V/50A/0.028 ohm
inc..., 5 X 16 bit & 1 X 8 bit slots, 4 X 30 pin
Removed from equipIRF-540...$2.50
& 1 X 72 pin Mem. slots 220 X 170mm $18
ment for routine
100V/28A/0.077 ohm
BUILD YOUR OWN COMPUTER
maintenance. We can’t fault them. Some 4
IRFP460...$2.50
CONTROLLED 2/3 AXIS MACHINE
some 6 cell. $0.20 / cell. Guaranteed!
500V/20A/0.27ohm
using parts of our now famous $46 surplus
CHARGER PCB (to suit above 6 cell
IRF-820...$5
GERMAN PRINTER & CNC shareware
packs) 7.2V trickle charger add $5
500V/2.5A/3.0 ohm
(DANCAD) The printer is full of steppers,
16 X
2 LINE LCD CHARACTER toothed belts, pulleys, bearings etc (EA
NEW
AUSTRALIAN
DISPLAY
June 99). we have plans/notes for $9 (on PLUG PACKS AT BELOW
+ 1M IDC
floppy) & links to find lots of info on the net . WHOLESALE PRICES
ext. cable,
TWO MOTOR LASER LIGHTSHOW KIT GENERAL ELECTRIC 20VA
LED, buzzer
Kit includes motors, mirrors, reversing 14VDC <at> 700mA.....
& switch on
$12 or 3 for $30 switch
and all electronic components. Can AUDIOVOX 9V
a PCB.
be controlled with a variable DC input.Lots <at> 500mA
TOLL FREE PHONE NUMBER of patterns, flowers, stars etc. $16
AUDIOVOX 12V
<at> 400mA....
Sorry but we don’t have one but if Laser module to suit $8
you call 02-95843564 24hrs & (NEW) 12V / 2.3Ah AUDIOVOX LEAD $5 Ea. or 5 for $20
KIT SPECIAL
leave a message & your number ACID BATTERY (Model BTR-1900). FM
FM
Priced at a fraction of their real value (as TRANSMITTER TRANSMITTER
FM TRANSMITTER
MKII
we will call you back ASAP at our used in video cameras & older mobile MKII
KIT / RADIO MIC. Has
cost. (ORDERS ONLY)
phones - same as Panasonic batteries we
good range & stability &
sold before). 180 (L) x 60 (H) x 22 (W) mm,
can be con-figured as a
0.67Kg, made in Japan. The contacts
hand held mic, lapel mic
PO Box 89 Oatley NSW 2223
(which are easily solderable) are at one
or musical instrument
Ph ( 02 ) 9584 3563 Fax 9584 3561 end of the battery. 2 batteries + suitable
transmitter. Kit includes
orders by e-mail: oatley<at>world.net 500mA float
PCB, all onboard com88-108MHz
88-108MHz
www.oatleyelectronics.com charger.
ponent, suitable small
major cards with ph. & fax orders,
case & lapel microOATLEY
OATLEY
Post & Pack typically $6
ELECTRONICS
ELECTRONICS
(02)-95843563
(02)-95843563 phone with clip. just $17
Prices subject to change without notice
$16
$55
$25
$25
MOSFET BARGAINS
$10
OATLEY ELECTRONICS
$20
OATLEY ELECTRONICS
OATLEY ELECTRONICS
***SUPER SPECIAL***
B R A N D N E W PA C K A R D B E L L
KEYBOARDS. Top quality Packard Bell
computer keyboards for just $12 Ea.
We don’t have enough space here for
all of our kits. Most of our old kits are
still active. Just check our web site to
see our full range of kits & products.
*** FANTASTIC BARGAIN ***
COMPUTER POWER SUPPLY PCB:
New PCB assembly. Dimensions are 45 x
108 x 200mm. Switchable 120/230V AC
input. DC outputs are +5V<at> 6A,+ 12V <at>
1A,-12V<at>1A,-5V<at>1A. Data Inc.RU
approval. Mains
input . Be Quick:
(Ps6) .
4 for $20
U S 11 0 - 9 V D C P L U G PA C K S
UL listed, In a Screw together case that
could be used for other projects, with
rectifier and electrolytic cap. 5 for $4
PELTIER EFFECT DEVICES
Make a solid state food cooler / warmer for
the car etc. with 2 heatsinks, a fan and one
of the following. Could be used for cooling
overclocked PC CPUs. All 40 X 40mm.
4A
T 65deg. Qmax 42W $25
6A
T 65deg. Qmax 60W $27.50
8A
T 65deg. Qmax 75W $30
Comes with info to build cooler / heater
plus data. Some used heatsinks avail.
BASIC PIC MICRO PROGRAMER JUST
Learn program your own 16F83 /16F84
/16C84 micro-controllers the easy way
with this simple kit that just plugs in to your
Pc’s printer port and uses these small,
cheap but powerful chips. Kit inc. program
examples and notes PCBs, all on-board
components, Db25 connector and a PIC
chip ready to program. An incredible
bargain at just $29
Software
available
free to Download
From our web page
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SC-SEP-99
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
Hindsight is a wonderful thing
When it comes to servicing equipment, it’s
sometimes all too easy to accidentally create an
additional fault – one that often doesn’t appear
until after the job has gone back to the customer.
Such was the case with two of my stories this
month.
It is a chastening fact that despite
doing everything one can possibly
do to get something absolutely 100%
right, it lets you down at the critical
moment. A friend’s wife, Patricia, had
30 Silicon Chip
picked up what looked like a bargain
in a garage sale. It was a white Sharp
R-2A55 Carousel microwave oven
with touch controls and a cooking
sensor – all for only $70. Unfortunate-
ly – and inevitably – there turned out
to be a catch . . . it didn’t work! I was
called in to check it.
When I removed the covers it was
all too obvious that this wasn’t the bargain of the century. The whole thing
was a mass of panicking cockroaches.
Fortunately, I was able to get the whole
thing outside before too many had
fled into the workshop. There then
followed an unpleasant half hour of
spraying insecticide and cleaning up
the damage their excreta had caused.
The fuse was blown and the protection diode and capacitor were short
circuit but the death knell for the
viability of this oven was the touch
switch pad (key unit) which didn’t
work either. I discovered this only after I had to purchased the service manual ($35.50) and established which of
two connectors needed to be joined to
reset/clear the flashing display. My
reasoning was that if I could operate
the oven without the touch pad, I
could eliminate the microprocessor
as the cause of the trouble.
But the switch pad was the stumbling block; it would cost $65 and
what with all the other items, including a missing plate and display window, the estimated cost (trade) came
to a shade over $200. On this basis, the
project had to be abandoned, which
left Pat without an oven.
Luckily, I had an old but otherwise
immaculate Toshiba ER-562ETA oven,
surplus to requirements. This somewhat more modest oven hadn’t been
used for years but after checking it
out, it proved to be in good working
order. And so I offered it to Pat with
a 12-month warranty for $70 (at least
that would partly cover me for the
expenses involved in working on the
other one).
Her husband picked it up and said
he could install it and I thought no
more about it – at least not until he
casually mentioned at a social gathering a week later that when he got
it home, it didn’t work. Of course, I
was rather embarrassed about this,
especially as this was a trigger for the
other members of our group to voice
their shonky secondhand technician
stories. There was nothing for it but
to eat humble-pie until I had it back
in the workshop to investigate what
had gone wrong.
What’s cooking
As I said earlier, this was a very
simple oven consisting of a heat/defrost switch, a rotary timer and a start
button. And sure enough, everything
was dead. The cook light didn’t illu
minate when the start button was
depressed and neither did a fluorescent tube (with the end connectors
removed) or a glass of water indicate
any microwave activity.
I removed the cover and examined
it. Everything looked in order. The
fuse was OK, the oven light came
on and, with it disconnected and
the capacitor discharged, the diode
measured OK. Interestingly, the start
switch is not a simple switch; it is a
spring loaded plastic lever connected
to a lower door interlock relay and at
first, I couldn’t quite understand how
the magnetron circuit is switched on.
The fundamental circuit of a microwave oven is very simple. It consists
of a 240V power transformer which
has a filament winding and high
voltage secondaries which feed the
magnetron. The cathode is connected
to the high voltage via a capacitor
and an asymmetric rectifier diode.
The whole lot is switched fully on or
off via the timer, by applying 240V to
the primary.
From this, I not only found out how
the oven was switched on but in the
process, why it had failed. The lower
interlock lever on the oven door depresses the relay to the “on” position,
when the start lever allows it to do
so. Or that was what was supposed
to happen.
However, this oven hadn’t been
used for a very long time and the lower
Items Covered This Month
• Toshiba ER-562ETA
Microwave Oven
• Akai CT2105A TV Set
• Mitsubishi HS-M54(A) VCR
• Panasonic NV-HD100 VCR
• Akai CT-2868 TV Set
lever, which is spring-loaded, wasn’t
returning to its normal position. And it
wasn’t doing so because its lubricating
grease had hardened. A small squirt
of CRC 2-26 on its axle and a little
working back and forth restored its
function immediately.
I returned the oven and demonstrated it to Pat that same afternoon.
However, I don’t think that this is the
last of the innuendo I will cop from
my “mates”!
Blue Akai
Jim Makim is a 68-year old retiree
and a nicer man it would be hard to
find – intelligent and articulate. In his
younger days, mainly during the valve
era, Jim was an electronics engineer
and so could understand a lot about
his set and its symptoms. His Akai
CT2105A decided to go all blue and
so Jim asked me to call. He would
have delivered it himself but he was
due to have an operation shortly and
so decided against it.
It was obvious that the voltage on
the blue cathode of the CRT was low,
causing it to go blue, but was it due to
a heater cathode short or to a problem
on the video output? The easiest way
to check this was to remove the blue
drive transistor (C505, 2SC2482). If
there was no blue with no transistor
in (which was what happened) the
problem was unlikely to be heater
cathode.
Next, I swapped this transistor with
the one from the red amplifier (C503)
but no change. I then disconnected
the drive from the main board to the
blue output transistor on the CRT
socket and no blue was displayed. I
now felt sure that the problem was
not on the CRT socket but on the
motherboard, mainly the drive from
IC301 AN5601K.
Rather than take the whole set
back to the workshop, I removed the
motherboard and CRT board and took
them with me. I then checked all the
components associated with the blue
amplifier. There was a lot of silicone
rubber compound on the board which
may have corroded them but they all
measured OK.
The only thing that I couldn’t check
was IC301 on the motherboard, which
I now felt was the most likely culprit.
I ordered a new one and made another
visit when it was ready. I plugged it
all back together, fully confident that
I had fixed the problem but no such
luck.
I was mortified (again!) to find that
the fault was still there. There was
September 1999 31
Serviceman’s Log – continued
Fig.1: the CRT board circuit for the Akai CT-2105A colour TV set. The blue
drive transistor (Q505) is at extreme right, while the red transistor, Q503, is at
extreme left. The blue signal comes in on pin 3 of connector CN301. Resistor
R513 is circled in red.
nothing for it but to return to the workshop with the whole set. Fortunately,
another identical model set had just
come in for a different problem, so I
removed the CRT board and swapped
it over. This fixed the fault, restoring
the blue function completely. So what
had I overlooked?
Well, ridiculously enough, I have
had this fault before, on early Samsung
models. But because of the way I had
tackled the problem, I had forgotten
the cause. The component that was
faulty was R513, a 12kΩ 2W resistor
feeding C505’s collector from the
high-voltage rail, which had gone
very high. So when the blue transistor
was turned on, the collector voltage
dropped too low and turned the blue
gun hard on.
If I had checked the base voltage of
the blue output transistor after swapping it with the red output transistor,
I would have found it to be correct.
However, this wouldn’t have picked
up the fault in the collector circuit.
Jim was most understanding of my
faux pas.
The leftover part
I have recently taken on a young
casual assistant, Tom. He is doing
32 Silicon Chip
a technical course and is seeking
as much practical experience as he
can get. He is getting on very well
and although he has been mainly
involved with audio repairs, he also
dabbles with video equipment. In my
experience, audio technicians often
make better VCR technicians than
those with exclusive backgrounds in
television. They tend to have a better
understanding of electromechanical
interfacing.
I was out doing a service call when
Mrs Thomas brought in the family
Mitsubishi HS-M54(A) VCR with the
tape jammed inside. It was fairly urgent as Mrs Thomas needed to return
the tape to the rental store as soon as
possible to avoid late fees.
Tom obliged by removing the tape
for her but Mrs Thomas brought the
VCR back a day or two later complaining that it wouldn’t rewind.
This time the job fell to me, as Tom
was at college that day. There was a
note in Tom’s writing taped on top
of the VCR, saying that it wouldn’t
rewind, together with a piece of white
plastic that had been found inside the
machine.
I removed the covers and examined
the video deck which is a Mitsubishi
Fo chassis Series 3. There appeared to
be nothing untoward and I could see
that the main pinch roller assembly
had already been replaced. I made
sure that the shaft was well lubricated
and that all the other functions were
working.
I did notice, however, that the tape
cassette was intermittently catching
on the lefthand side as it went in and
down but I didn’t put much store on
that. The deck could fast-forward nor
mally, so why wouldn’t it rewind? The
idler looked fine and I confirmed that
it could rewind with a dummy test
cassette in the machine. The supply
reel had lots of torque, the brakes were
off and the take-up reel was free.
Yet when a proper tape was inserted, it wouldn’t rewind at all. There
was no friction worth writing about
from the opposite reel, nor was there
any along the tape path, with the tape
wrapped around the head drum. So
the problem only occurred when a real
tape was used but it worked fine with
the dummy. It had to be something to
do with friction between the cassette
and the driving wheel hub.
Why is it catching?
By this time, I was becoming infuriated with the cassette catching on the
lefthand side as it went down and so I
decided to take a closer look. The only
way to find out what was causing this
was to remove the ejector and run it in
and down by hand, so that’s what I did.
But I could find no reason at all why
the ejector should be sticking. There
was no friction that I could feel and
so, exasperated by all this, I decided
to fit the ejector back in the deck. This
isn’t nearly as easy as taking it out
and requires a bit of a deft hand and
experience to install it.
Basically, one has to angle it down
slightly at the front, to engage two
tongues with locating lugs on each
side, and then push it down and forward at the same time, using a long
thin screwdriver to locate the loading
gear into its well.
If all goes well, the ejector will line
up with the screw mounting holes
at the rear. The first time I did this, I
used a lot of force to line up the holes
and when I tried loading a cassette it
was still catching and not rewinding
as before. It still worked OK with the
dummy tape cassette, though.
By now, I was beginning to get an
idea as to what was causing this, so I
took an old tape, unscrewed the case,
removed the two spools inside and
reassembled it. When I loaded this, it
was easy to see what was happening.
The cassette went in easily but when
I looked at it from the top, I could see
that the spool wasn’t in the centre
of the hole in the cassette housing.
Instead, it was displaced towards the
rear but it could turn on engaging
rewind.
I removed the doctored cassette and
removed the ejector again. This time, I
reinstalled the ejector more carefully,
without using any force, ensuring in
the process that all four anchor points
were lined up as well as the loading
gears – as per the service manual. Now
when I put the tape cassette in, it lined
up exactly in the centre of the hole.
And that solved the problem. When
I tested it with a real cassette, I found
that it would now go in and rewind
properly. It wasn’t until Tom came
back the next day that the mystery
was completely solved; only then did I
learn that he had removed the cassette
housing to remove the faulty tape.
I tested the machine thoroughly
to make sure it wasn’t responsible
for damaging the hire tape but it
performed faultlessly through many
operations, with different tapes.
Finally, one might ask where
did the piece of white plastic come
from? Unfortunately, I haven’t a clue
– I couldn’t find any gears broken or
chipped and can only conclude that
it came from the hire tape.
The Panasonic VCR
And now for a couple of less traumatic episodes. I thought Mrs Laruso’s
VCR was going to be a doddle. She described her Panasonic NV-HD100 VCR
as having an intermittent problem in
which the mechanism would stick
between various play functions. The
common cause of this problem is the
loading motor coupling. This coupling
splits, then slips on the shaft on which
it is normally a press fit.
It was one of those busy days and
my mind was preoccupied with other
things, so I worked on it in a sort of
automaton mode. I had done a few of
these so it wasn’t difficult. It involved
completely removing and replacing
the deck and loading motor assembly
but I soon had the job completed. The
machine performed like a bought one
and I handed it back to a suitably grateful Mrs Laruso after demonstrating it
performing its tricks.
I thought nothing more of it
for a couple of weeks until Mrs
Laruso brought it back in. This
time, she was complaining that
the eject mechanism was going
back and forth and turning the
VCR off without fully accepting
the tape. She could insert the
tapes but they were spat out
again almost straight away.
This was different. In order
to accept the tape, the cassette
pushes a lever across the right
hand photocoupler and the
mech
a nism senses that it is
down when both end sensors see
light from the centre LED source.
By maintaining an even pressure with my hand, I could push
a cassette to the bottom of the
ejector assembly and get the deck
to load the tape around the head.
All play functions worked but I
noticed when the tape came to
the end that the machine did not
stop immediately, implying that
the end sensor wasn’t working.
When I rewound it to the beginning of the tape, it also didn’t
stop immediately. As it was unlikely that both end sensors were
faulty, my suspicions turned towards
the centre LED.
With the tape in fast forward, I could
cause it to stop and rewind by shining
a torch onto the left end sensor and,
similarly, stop it by shining the torch
on the right sensor.
I removed the deck once more
and checked the LED sender. It was
OK and activated a remote control
infrared tester. And by very carefully
suspending the deck upside down,
while still connected to the rest of the
VCR, I measured the voltage across the
LED – there was nothing.
With an incredible amount of
patience and a lot of time, I traced
(without a circuit) the power source
to the LED through the connectors and
onto the main PC board, until finally it
came to an unmarked surface mounted
resistor alongside a screw near the
front – and then the whole mystery
fell into place. When I repaired the
original fault, I had replaced the original Panasonic screws, including one
which has a head with a flange on it.
This screw did not belong there; the
diameter of the flange was oversized
for this location. And I had carelessly
fitted it so that it hit this resistor and
cracked it, thus breaking the voltage
supply for the LED. Fortunately, I
could read 211 on one part of the resistor, which I interpreted as 210Ω but
I measured it to be 200Ω. I fitted two
100Ω resistors and the correct screw
to get me back to where I’d been two
weeks earlier.
The moral of the story is to place
the screws into containers, so that one
reassembles them in the exact reverse
order to which they were removed.
Anyway, I wasn’t about to admit to
Mrs Laruso that my carelessness had
wiped out all the profit I had made
out of the original repair – and then
some. One just has to put it down to
experience.
The Akai TV set
Mrs Clyde’s Akai CT-2868 AT TV set
was still under warranty and because
it was 72cm set, it required a service
call. The problem was that it had a
vertical hold that wouldn’t lock – intermittently! As there is no external
vertical hold control, I was fairly sure
it was just faulty reception.
If there is serious ghosting and it
is spaced at the appropriate distance
apart, it can confuse the set so that
September 1999 33
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it doesn’t know which vertical sync
pulses to lock onto. Some earlier sets
had additional modules that could be
fitted, to help the set decide which
pulses to select.
Of course, when I arrived her set
was going fine and I confirmed that
the reception was ghost free. It was
34 Silicon Chip
only then that she told me that it
took up to a couple of hours before it
misbehaved. Why didn’t she switch
it on much earlier?
I told her there was nothing I could
do then and there but I would call back
later after my next job a few streets
away. In the meantime, I asked her
to leave the set running. Fortunately,
it was faulty when I returned but the
only clue I had was that it was probably a temperature sensitive component. But it was not a job I could do
in the home – it would have to come
back to the workshop.
When the set was finally plonked on
the bench, I tackled it with an array
of hairdryers and freezers. Gradually
I managed to isolate the problem
to several components near IC302,
especially two tantalum capacitors
C331 (pin 34) and C333 (pin 33), but
replacing these made no difference. I
also replaced electrolytic capacitors
C340 and C341 on the 12V feed (pin
29) to the IC but there was still no
difference. The preset vertical hold
(VR303), zener ZD301, capacitor
C332 and diode D306 were also all
ultimately cleared of guilt.
I was beginning to feel unhappy
about R351 (180kΩ), as it was very
sensitive to heat and cold – but that
could have been due to the frost and
moisture condensing on the outside.
First, I measured it in circuit with a
Philips PM2505 multimeter and it
read high. I then measured it again
and it checked OK. By now I was
thoroughly suspicious, so I unsoldered one leg and remeasured it more
carefully just in case diode D308 was
affecting it. When I put my prods on it,
it measured exactly 180kΩ but when
I repeated the measurement a short
time later, it read 250kΩ.
How could this be? I repeated the
procedure several times using crocodile clips (so that my fingers didn’t
affect the measurement) and amazingly it measured 180kΩ one way and
250kΩ the other way.
I won’t attempt to explain this
phenomenon but enough was enough.
I fitted a real resistor – one that measured 180kΩ both ways – and that
fixed the fault. I can only surmise the
resistor had gone high – for whatever
reason – and the heat from the iron
had made it good again but I leave all
the speculation to you, and yes, I was
SC
sober when it happened.
Teach it to recognise YOUR voice!
VOICE DIRECT
Speech Recognition
By Ross Tester
As you are reading this, a spacecraft is speeding towards
Mars. It will make a “soft” landing in just a few weeks.
One of its scientific experiments will be to listen for, and learn
any sounds made on the planet. That task will be undertaken
by a very similar chip to that used in this project!
September 1999 35
SEPTEMBER 1999 35
S
ome projects appear so simple,
yet the underlying technology
is not only state-of-the-art, it’s
difficult to believe.
This is one such project: a voice
recognition module which actually
learns words, in your voice, and then
recognises them when asked to do so.
Think about that for a moment.
The chip is not simply recognising
an inbuilt vocabulary, though that is
no mean feat in itself.
It’s actually recognising words
which YOU teach it. The words don’t
have to be English. In fact, the words
don’t have to be words in the true
sense at all.
They can be sounds. They can even
be complete gibberish, just so long
as the chip can recognise them and
learn them.
That’s one of the reasons it was
chosen for the Mars project. Just imagine if they do find little green men
up there – they’re not likely to have
learnt the Queen’s English, are they?
Seriously, though, if there are
sounds to be heard, the chip will
learn them.
(If you’d like to know more about
the Mars Microphone probe, check
out the website www.sensoryinc.com/
html/mars.htm).
Now, back to this amazing technology and our project.
It’s all done with a purpose-designed module from Sensory, Inc, of
the USA. This module, measuring just
50 x 50mm and containing a couple of
ICs and a few surface-mount devices,
is capable of learning, and then recognising, virtually any word – with
Front (left)
and rear
(right) of the
Sensory Inc.
“Voice
Direct”
module,
shown
actual size.
a few provisos such as the words not
being too similar.
For instance, it shouldn’t have a
great deal of trouble with cat and cart
but cat and mat might give it some
angst. But more on this later.
All that is required is the connection of power (5V DC), an electret
microphone, a speaker and three
switches and the module is ready for
operation.
In this mode, shown in Fig.1, it
will ask you to say a word and then
repeat it. If you say the word the same
way twice, it will then ask you for
the next word, and so on, up to 15
words in total.
If you only want, say, three words,
you simply do not respond when it
asks for the fourth word and the learning mode is then terminated.
When you push the “recognise”
switch, it asks you to say a word. If
your word is in its vocabulary, it responds by sending one of its outputs
high. What you do with that output
is entirely up to you.
Fig.1: Sensory Inc’s suggested circuit which will recognise three words and
flash a LED. We used this as a starting point for our experimenter's board.
36 Silicon Chip
Just think of the applications: do
you want the TV set on, or the channel
changed? You can TELL the module
which channel you want!
Or you walk into a lift and instead
of pressing a button, you tell the lift
which floor you want. The lift then
whisks you to your floor! The possibilities of such a system are endless!
How about a robot which comes out
to serve you in the restaurant, recognising your order by what you say?
Gee, you could even send a system
into space and land on another planet
– Mars, for example. It could listen for
sounds, learn them, recognise them –
and maybe turn on a transmitter and
tell us back on earth. . . Oh, someone
has thought of that one already?
Yes, it really is out of this world!
The experimenter’s board
As you can see from the photographs and main circuit, we have developed an experimenter’s PC board
to go with the speech module. Let’s
explain why.
The user manual which accompanies the module suggests a circuit
which lights LEDs when it recognises
a word.
However, they only suggested three
LEDs. But we thought “there are 15
words, so why not 15 outputs?”
It isn’t quite that simple, because
only eight of the word outputs have
their own output pins. The last seven
require decoding, using combinations
of the other outputs. So we added a
couple of low-cost AND gates to provide all 15 word outputs.
The manual also suggested a 4.5V
power supply using three 1.5V batteries. But it also says that low battery
levels will degrade performance. For
the sake of a cheap 5V regulator and a
couple of capacitors, we sidestepped
that problem. You can use a 12V plug-
pack supply without worries.
Now that we had 12V available,
we thought it would be a good idea
to provide a relay output and driver,
just in case you had something you
wanted to control. Naturally, this (just
like the extra decoding) is entirely
optional – if you want to save a little
money, you can leave them off.
Some parts which aren’t optional, though, are the microphone, the
speaker and the three pushbutton
switches. These are, as you might
expect, essential for setting the mode,
teaching the module and recognising
the words.
Because we had now decided to put
all this on a printed circuit board, we
decided to mount the speaker and mic
on-board and use PC board-mounting
switches as well, making the whole
thing self-contained.
Now, how to mount the module
itself?
Sensory suggest using standard
0.1in header pins to make connection,
as all connections to the module are
brought out to holes on a standard
0.1in grid.
We took advantage of this to mount
the board by duplicating the rows of
holes, allowing the module to simply
drop over rows of header pins mounted on our PC board.
From there, it was a simple matter
to solder the pins to their appropriate
connections – it’s impossible to get
the connections wrong.
(But you can bridge between adjacent pins so you have to be very
careful and use a clean, fine-tipped
soldering iron).
As you can see, we also added two
extra rows of header pins to enable
connection between the word 1-8
outputs and the decoding circuitry.
As output 8 is always part of the
decoding, this was wired directly on
the PC board.
One other pair of header pins was
installed on two pads which are actually shorted out. This might seem
a little strange but these pins can be
used to select a “slave” mode of operation if the copper between them
is cut. Again, you may care to leave
these pins out.
All of the electronics are on a PC
board measuring 160 x 118mm. Power
connection to the board is made via
a 2.1mm DC power socket (so it will
suit most plug packs). Polarity is
the “standard” centre positive but
Above: the SILICON CHIP experimenter’s board ready for theVoice Direct module.
The lower row of LEDs light when words 1-8 are recognised. With suitable
connections the upper row of LEDs light with words 9-15.
Below: with the Voice Direct module fitted.
because there really is no standard, a
series diode will prevent catastrophes
if power is connected with the wrong
polarity.
A resistor and LED between +12V
and 0V will show that power is on and
also connected the right way around!
Construction
Start with the resistors. Once these
are soldered in place (particularly the
ones in series with LEDs), the chances
of making an error in placing other
components are significantly reduced.
Next, solder the 9 PC pins in place.
The two power diodes, small (bypass)
capacitors and the two wire links
complete most of the low profile
components.
Now move on to the semiconductors: all of the LEDs except the
“power on” LED are oriented with
their cathodes (marked by a flat on
the body and a shorter lead) towards
the edge of the board. How far down
you mount the LEDs is up to you – we
left about 5mm between the top of the
board and the LED body.
September 1999 37
You could solder them in anywhere
from flat down on the board to standing full length upright (the latter has
the advantage of being able to be used
again in another project).
The 5V regulator is mounted with
its flat side towards the edge of the
board and both electrolytic capacitors
have their negative sides towards the
edge also.
The two ICs have their notched end
(or the dot marking pin 1) towards the
middle of the board.
When mounting the switches,
ensure that their flat sides also go
towards the edge of the board, like
the LEDs. The relay cannot mount
incorrectly – it has eight pins and
they only fit one way.
Likewise, the DC power socket
must be correct with its three pins in
a triangular pattern and the opening
towards the outside of the board.
About all that are left are the microphone and speaker, along with the
header pins which mount the module.
First, the electret microphone insert. Take a look at the two pins on
the rear: one of the two is connected
to the case and this pin goes into the
hole closest to the regulator.
The speaker is mounted by two
short lengths of tinned copper wire
connecting the speaker terminals to
the appropriate PC pins. We made
our speaker more secure by putting
a dab of super glue gel on the back
of the speaker, securely holding it to
the PC board (double-sided adhesive
foam tabs would be just as effective).
Finally, we come to the header pins
which are used to mount the Voice
Direct module. We used two 25-pin
headers which gives 50 pins – exactly the number required to fill all the
holes on the board.
In truth, this is a bit of an overkill
because in this application only 22
of the pins are actually needed to
connect to the board.
However, we filled all 50 holes on
the base PC board with header pins
and soldered only those required – 19
along one edge and three adjacent.
Because the header pins come in
25-pin strips, you will have to cut
them (a pair of sharp sidecutters is
fine). Cut a 19-pin length from one
strip and an 18-pin length from the
other – these are for the parallel rows.
You will have a 6-pin and a 7-pin
length left from each strip; by sheer
fluke there are 13 pins required to
complete the set!
Push the short length of the header
pin block through the PC board and
very carefully solder the required
pins underneath using a fine-tipped
iron with a clean tip. Regularly clean
the tip on a wet sponge as you work
and don’t overheat the solder joint
as the pads are very small and could
easily lift.
Check, and check again, that you
haven’t bridged solder between any
two pins.
We didn’t bother soldering all 50
pins in place on the board, only the
required pins (ie, all 19 in one strip
and the three adjacent) and also the
end pins of each of the other header
pin sets, just to hold them in place.
An 8-pin length and a 7-pin length
of header pins are also needed to connect the chip outputs and decoding
lines.
We also used a 2-pin set on the
pads connected to the “stand alone”
pins but this is not necessary in this
application (we happened to have a
Fig. 2: our final experimenter’s board circuit. You can see the similarities between this circuit and the basic circuit
overleaf. We have added a power supply, outputs for all words and also some decoding for words 9 through 15.
38 Silicon Chip
HEADER PIN SET JP3 –
PINS 12-14 CONNECTED
HEADER PIN SET JP1 – NO CONNECTION
HEADER PIN SET JP2 – ALL CONNECTED EXCEPT 8 & 9
Fig 3: Here's how it all goes together on the printed circuit board. The bottom row of LEDs represents words
one to eight while the top row will decode nine to fifteen. The word output pins 1-7 need to be connected to
the appropriate word 9-15 input pins for decoding – see the separate logic table.
2-pin set spare, so why not?)
You could use a single header pin
(instead of a PC stake) in the base
circuit of the relay driver if you wish.
Before mounting the Voice Direct
module on the PC board, you might
like to confirm that the everything is
working correctly.
Plug in a 12V supply and ensure
that the power LED lights. Measure
the voltage between pins 4 and 5 of
header pin set JP2 of the voice module
(counting from the end closest to the
supply) and confirm it is 5V (pin 4
+5V, pin 5 0V).
Temporarily solder a length of insulated hookup wire to a point on the
+5V rail under the board and touch
the other end of this lead on each of
the header pins in the 8-pin set (word
1-8 outputs). Each of the LEDs should
light in turn. Do the same with the
7-pin row (word 9-15 inputs) and
each of those LEDs should also light.
Finally, touch the lead on the PC
stake (or header pin) connected to
the base circuit of the relay driver
and you should hear the relay click
in. If all is OK, disconnect power and
unsolder the wire. If all is not OK,
you’ll need to track down the fault
before proceeding.
There are four holes on the board
(above the switches) which at this
stage we’ll leave unfilled. They’re for
a more difficult learning mode, which
we’ll cover shortly.
Mounting the module
With the header pins in place, it
is simply a matter of dropping the
Voice Direct module over the pins
and sliding it down.
Because the holes on the module
are all plated through, it is quite possible that the module won’t even need
to be soldered in place (especially
useful if you wish to use the module
elsewhere).
But . . . Murphy’s law being what it
is, there is always a chance that one
or more pins won’t make contact so
we took the safe way out and soldered
the 22 required header pins to the
module. Again, a very fine, clean iron
is essential.
The project is now finished: now’s
the time to teach it some words!
Voice “training”
Apply power to the board and press
the “train” button. You should hear a
voice say “Say word 1”. Speak your
chosen word clearly into the microphone. The voice will say “repeat”.
Make sure you speak the same way
– that is, don’t change inflections or
emphasis because the module may
think you are saying a different word.
If it understands the word, it will
say “accepted” and ask you to “say
word 2”. You keep on repeating the
process until all 15 words are trained
or you have trained the number of
words required. If you want to train
six words, for example, simply do
nothing when it asks you for word
seven and it will respond with the
September 1999 39
Parts List
1 PC board, code 07109991,
160 x 118mm
1 Sensory Inc. “Voice Direct”
speech recognition module
1 2.1mm PCB mounting DC
power socket
3 25-pin 0.1in header pin sets
3 momentary action push
button switches, PC board
mounting
1 PC board mounting 12V relay,
DPDT contacts
1 electret microphone insert
1 8Ω speaker, 57mm
Semiconductors
16 5mm LEDs (any colour)
2 4081 quad AND gate ICs
1 BC337 NPN transistor
1 7805 voltage regulator
2 1N4004 power diodes
Capacitors
1 1000µF 25VW PC
electrolytic
1 10µF 12VW PC electrolytic
2 0.1µF MKT polyester,
monolithic or ceramic
Resistors (0.25W, 5%)
2 10kΩ
1 1kΩ
15 560Ω
Miscellaneous
9 PC stakes, hookup wire for links,
header cables for connecting
module outputs to decoder inputs
words “training complete”.
If a chosen word is too close to
another word, it will tell you. You
should try to avoid similar sounding
words. There is a way to ensure stricter training and recognition which we
will cover shortly.
If you have any difficulty getting the
module to recognise words, a few tips:
• Keep the same distance from the
microphone with the same voice
level when training and saying
words.
• Use a natural voice – while the
module will remember accents and
strange voices, you might not!
• The physical and emotional state
of the voice matters. For example,
if you’ve just run up a flight of steps
and are out of breath, your voice
will sound different than when you
are relaxed.
• In either training or recognition,
40 Silicon Chip
background noise may be a problem
– the module doesn’t know that the
background noise is not part of the
word! So take this into account.
Voice recognition
Press the “recognise” button and
you will be asked to say a word.
Say the word clearly. If the module
recognises the word it will respond
with the appropriate word number
and light the LED corresponding to
that number.
If it cannot recognise the word
because of incorrect pronunciation,
inflection or accent, it will say “word
not recognised”. If you say the word
too softly it will ask you to speak up.
If you say the word too quickly it will
tell you so!
As described, the module is set up
for “relaxed” training – it will recognise more words but may not be able
to differentiate between some words.
Another mode, called “strict” training
and recognition, is also available.
In this mode, where the train and
recognise lines are permanently
pulled to ground via a 100kΩ resistor, the module is harder to train,
it accepts less words but has better
accuracy in recognising words. Provision has been made on the PC board
for these 100kΩ resistors – they’re
the empty holes we referred to earlier above the train and recognise
switches.
For most purposes, the relaxed
mode is easier to use – in this case,
simply leave the 100kΩ resistors out.
Decoding
As mentioned before, words 1-8
cause a single output to go high
for about a second, lighting the appropriate LED. Words 9-15 need to
be decoded because they send two
outputs high – output 8 and another
of the 1-7 outputs, depending on the
word. Table 1 shows the output table.
In order to differentiate between
words 1-8 and 9-15, decoding is required. We have provided two 4081
quad AND gates on the board with
the module output 8 permanently
connected to one input from each gate.
Decoding, then, is simply a matter of
connecting a wire between the appropriate 1-7 output header pin and the
required decoder header pin.
This will cause a single LED to light
for outputs 9-15. Logically, word 9
would be the LED closest to the PC
board corner and word 15 would be
the LED closest to the speaker.
Relay output
A relay circuit is also provided to
give a “real world” output, with two
sets of changeover contacts.
Usage is simple: connect the relay
driver input to any of the required
word outputs and when that word
is recognised, as well as its LED
lighting the relay will pull in for the
same time.
This is about a second which
should be long enough to initiate some
further action. If not long enough, a
simple time delay can be added.
Note that we have not provided
any latching circuitry on the PC
board – if you want this, it can easily
be achieved by using one of the sets
of relay contacts to hold the relay on
once it is triggered.
TABLE 1: WORD RECOGNITION LOGIC
Word 1
Word 2
Word 3
Word 4
Word 5
Word 6
Word 7
Word 8
Word 9
Word 10
Word 11
Word 12
Word 13
Word 14
Word 15
Output 1 (header pin set JP2 - pin 12)
Output 2 (pin 13)
Output 3 (pin 14)
Output 4 (pin 15)
Output 5 (pin 16)
Output 6 (pin 17)
Output 7 (pin 18)
Output 8 (pin 19)
Output 8 (pin 19) AND Output 1 (pin 12)
Output 8 (pin 19) AND Output 2 (pin 13)
Output 8 (pin 19) AND Output 3 (pin 14)
Output 8 (pin 19) AND Output 4 (pin 15)
Output 8 (pin 19) AND Output 5 (pin 16)
Output 8 (pin 19) AND Output 6 (pin 17)
Output 8 (pin 19) AND Output 7 (pin 18)
Where do you get the Voice Direct Module?
At the time of going to press, we were
unable to determine if distribution has
been arranged in Australia. It is possible
that some suppliers will have stock shortly.
These days, though, there is no great
problem as it is possible to buy the module
direct from the USA using the Internet.
Sensory Inc. distributors Jameco Electronic Components (www.jameco.com)
or JDR Computer Products (www.jdr.
com) have a kit available for $US49.95
plus postage and handling.
This kit includes three tiny pushbutton
switches (not the same as the Jaycar ones
we used but they will fit the PC board), a
speaker, microphone insert and of course
the pre-assembled module itself.
Apart from the PC board, all the components on our experimenter's board are
commonly available. The PC board should
be available from the usual PC board
suppliers such as RCS Radio in Sydney.
For more information on the Voice Direct
module, including detailed data in Acrobat
format (PDF), visit the Sensory Inc website:
SC
www.sensoryinc.com
Following the retirement of our technical
draftsman (who has been with SILICON CHIP
since the first issue), we are looking for
someone with the right qualifications and
experience to take his place.
The person we are looking for must be able
to maintain the outstanding “look and feel”
of the circuit diagrams, PC board overlays,
drawings and diagrams which have become
synonymous with SILICON CHIP and have
contributed very much to its success and
respect in the marketplace.
Essential requirements for this position:
• An understanding of electronics, to
at least advanced hobbyist level – the
function, operation and requirements
of components and electronic circuitry.
• Practical experience in one or more
of the PC-based CAD, engineering
or drawing packages used today (we
use Generic CAD but other software
experience will be acceptable).
• The ability to interpret a variety of
original material and turn it into clear,
lucid diagrams.
• The ability to handle sometimes very
tight deadlines with accuracy, clarity
and thoroughness.
• The ability to work as part of a small,
busy team.
• The ability to commence yesterday!
Other qualifications and experience
which would be well regarded:
• Experience in Internet web page
design and construction.
• The ability to design and produce
electronic projects of the type which
appear in SILICON CHIP.
• Possibly technical writing expertise.
SILICON CHIP offices are located at Mona
Vale on Sydney’s Northern Beaches.
This is the full-size PC board pattern for the project. Because of the close
spacing of tracks (especially around the header pin sockets) copying this from
the magazine is not really a proposition. Use it instead to check commercially
obtained boards. Of course, the PC board pattern is available from the SILICON
CHIP website, www.siliconchip.com.au
If you can satisfy all, or most of these
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your CV as soon as possible in one of
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email: silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
Fax: (02) 9979 5644
Mail: PO Box 139, Collaroy NSW 2097.
September 1999 41
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42 Silicon Chip
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SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
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which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
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which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
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Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
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SILICON
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If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
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Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
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VINTAGE RADIO
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
Vintage Hifi Stereo AM Radio
Most of our readers would probably be aware
that many AM stations broadcast in stereo but
apart from some car radios, few people have
the facility to receive stereo AM broadcasts
which are of potentially very good quality.
But did you know that stereo AM
broadcasts began in the late 1950s,
long before FM stereo broadcasts
began? People used to set up two
AM radios to listen to the occasional
broadcasts from the ABC and some
commercial stations. But we’re getting
ahead of ourselves.
True, AM as received on the average
domestic receiver is rather poor in regard to quality, often only having a frequency reproduction range of 150Hz to
around 3.5kHz. The IF (Intermediate
Frequency) bandwidth is usually
quite narrow and the audio response
of the audio amplifier in small radios
is rather restricted as well. No wonder
that AM radio has a reputation of being
low fidelity.
The transmitters, however, do have
a much wider frequency response, being nominally flat from 50Hz to 10kHz
or 12kHz, and often a lot wider than
that. And the Motorola CQUAM stereo
modulation which has been used by
Australian AM stations since 1985 is
a high quality system. Hence, with a
good-quality stereo AM receiver and
a low noise antenna system, it can
be very difficult to tell the difference
between AM stereo and FM stereo
broadcasts.
Early AM stereo
As mentioned above, stereo AM
broadcasting was introduced in Australia on an experimental basis around
about the late 1950s and ran through
to the mid 1960s. But if you weren’t an
ABC listener you may not have been
aware of it. In most capital cities the
ABC had two 50 kilowatt co-located
AM broadcast transmitters just out of
the metropolitan area, fed from studios
in the city.
BELOW: two dial scales, two tuning
knobs and two magic eyes made
this Pioneer stereo AM receiver a
knob-twiddler’s delight at the time of
its production in about 1964. The bass
and treble controls used concentric
knobs, as did the volume control.
There was no balance control.
September 1999 53
The top of the chassis was neat and well laid out. Note the two tuning gangs, one
at the front and one at the rear, near one of the output transformers. The two
magic eye tubes are mounted horizontally at each end of the front panel.
In New South Wales, these two
stations were (and still are) 2BL and
2FC while in Victoria, they were 3AR
(now 3RN) and 3LO. Every so often
the stereo broadcasts took place and
anyone with two radios could tune
one set to 3AR and the other to 3LO
and receive “stereo”. My parents and
family lived on the South Australian
border so what with selective fading
at night and very ordinary radios the
expected “stereo” was something
none of us were convinced had really
occurred!
But stereo AM did occur and no
doubt in the metropolitan areas the
stereo was well received. Setting up
the receivers was a bit of a problem,
and overall it was a messy way of
receiving stereo AM. Some of our entrepreneurial Japanese manufacturers
could see a lucrative market for hifi
stereo AM receivers and commenced
to build them. There were not too
many models but there was at least
one built by Pioneer, as featured here,
and one by Kenwood.
54 Silicon Chip
But double AM stereo wasn’t a
commercially successful experiment.
People found it too tricky for them
to get the hang of, even though it did
work quite well. You would not think
it would be hard to properly tune radios to different stations but there you
are. Hence there are very few of these
early stereo receivers around.
I recently had the pleasure of restoring a Pioneer SM-B161 AM (circa
1964) stereo receiver. What is immediately different about this receiver
compared to the run of the mill sets
of the era in that it has two complete
independent AM receivers in the one
case. It had two slide-rule AM dials
and two tuning knobs.
The audio amplifiers are typical
high quality of the era, with a pushpull class AB1 amplifier in each
channel, putting out around 8-10 watts
RMS. The output transformers for the
audio stages are quite large – about
the size of a small power transformer
in a typical 1950s mantle receiver.
They are certainly not called speaker
transformers in such a set!
Preamplifiers are provided for low
level magnetic phono cartridges, as
well as ceramic (crystal) cartridges.
Considerable care has been taken to
shield the inputs and the cables to
the 12AX7 stages which functioned
as preamplifiers. The earth leads go to
various points around the chassis to
minimise hum loops and the heaters
of the valves are balanced to earth by
preset potentiometers to minimise any
residual hum.
Pioneer have been very successful
in reducing hum to such a level that
it is inaudible at full volume and no
input. Could that be said of many of
the radios that we restore? Certainly
not! The attention to detail to achieve
high quality performance is obvious.
One of the photos in this article
shows the front panel layout which
has the two dial scales. One is purely
the AM broadcast band while the other
is the broadcast band plus a shortwave
band from 3.8 to 12MHz.
Magic eye tuning
The converter in each receiver is the
ubiquitous 6BE6, feeding a single IF
stage using a 6BA6 which then goes to
a germanium diode detector (OA81).
From the AGC line of each receiver
a 6E5 “magic eye” is used to assist
tuning of each receiver independently. The 6E5 is also handy for aligning
the receiver, as it is only necessary to
observe the fluorescent screen of the
appropriate 6E5 while the RF and IF
tuning adjustments are made.
The output of each receiver then
goes into a large switch which combines, separates or selects the receiver,
record pick ups or auxiliary inputs;
this is a large and busy switch. From
this switch, the signals are either separated or combined go to the respective tone control network and audio
amplifiers and thence to the speakers.
Fig.1 is a block diagram showing
how the receivers and amplifiers are
interconnected.
Servicing the SM-B161
The top and bottom covers of the
receiver come off easily, allowing
ready access to the componentry. It is
a complex piece of equipment with
14 valves, including the rectifier and
the two magic-eye tuning devices.
From the under-chassis view it can
be seen that there are a lot of passive
components. I had to replace around
30 leaky electrolytic capacitors and a
few out of tolerance resistors. Care is
needed in replacing the components.
I replaced them one at a time so as to
not get any in the wrong spots.
When I first opened up the set I
This photograph shows the great handful of components which had to be
replaced. As can be seen, most of the electrolytics were faulty.
found that wax had been dripping
out of one of the audio output transformers. This sug
gested that it had
overheated for some reason or another.
I then checked the capacitors around
the particular twin 6BM8 output stage
and found that the cathode bypass
electrolytic capacitor had emptied
its insides out. This almost certainly
means that the valves had been drawing a lot of current. The grid capacitors
were then found to be quite leaky so
that was likely to be the reason for the
high current through the 6BM8s and
the cathode resistor.
It was also obvious at this stage that
a few other capaci
tors had spilled
their insides around the underside of
the chassis, as can be seen in one of
the photos. The set was designed for
115V or 230V AC operation and there
were three ordinary paper capacitors
of 400V rating from mains to earth –
depending on which way the mains
supply was connected.
For 230/240VAC operation this is
The under-chassis view
shows the crowded
point-to-point wiring of
the era. Access is good
though and replacing
parts is straightforward
provided you do just one
at a time.
September 1999 55
Fig.1: block diagram of the Pioneer SM-B161 AM stereo
receiver. It uses two AM tuner stages, each of which was
tuned to a different frequency to pick up one channel of
the stereo signal.
6E5
6BE6
CONVERTER
MAGNETIC
PICKUP
6BBA6
IF AMP
12AX7
PREAMP
OA81
DETECTOR
12AX7
PREAMP
AM MONO
AUX
PICK-UP
AUXILIARY
12AX7
PREAMP
12AX7
PREAMP
SWITCHING
NETWORK
CRYSTAL
PICKUP
6BE6
CONVERTER
PREAMP
½ x 6BM8
TRIODE
PHASE
SPLITTER
½ x 6BM8
TRIODE
AM STEREO
CRYSTAL
PICKUP
MAGNETIC
PICKUP
TONE
½ x 12AX7
AUX
6BBA6
IF AMP
OA81
DETECTOR
RECORD
RECORD
TONE
½ x 12AX7
PREAMP
½ x 6BM8
TRIODE
PHASE
SPLITTER
½ x 6BM8
TRIODE
OUTPUT
½ x 6BM8
PENTODE
HT
OUTPUT
½ x 6BM8
PENTODE
OUTPUT
½ x 6BM8
PENTODE
HT
OUTPUT
½ x 6BM8
PENTODE
5AR4
RECTIFIER
6E5
a dangerous practice as the ratings
of the capacitors will be exceeded
often, due to spikes and surges on the
mains, even though the peak voltage
on 240VAC mains is only around
340V. Even a 600V DC rating capacitor
is insufficient as the spikes are often
greater than 1000V and there can be
problems with corona discharge with
in the dielectric.
So while DC-rated capacitors were
often used in this application, only
capacitors rated for 250VAC operation
are safe. However, as it turned out, the
fitting of suitable capacitors in these
locations made no improvement in
noise suppression so they were left
out of the set.
It was found also that the mains
plug had been wired so that the power
switch was in the Neutral lead rather
than the Active. This was corrected!
It is always wise to check the wiring
of mains leads to make sure that in
the past no-one has put mains Active
to chassis or some other equally dangerous thing.
The top of chassis view shows a set
which is easy to access with major
components well labelled. While the
photo may not show it well, the valve
types and similar pieces of information
56 Silicon Chip
are stamped onto the chassis. This
would have been most useful if any
of the valves were missing.
When the set was at last turned on,
the voltages were monitored carefully around the set, particularly in the
power supply and in the audio output
stage where wax had dripped from the
transformer. All was well and several
hours of operation showed no further
trouble in that stage.
As was common practice at the time,
each channel has one of the 6BM8
triodes used as a phase splitter for
the following pentode output stages.
The 47kΩ resistors used for plate and
cathode loads in this stage were way
out of tolerance. This would mean that
the drive to the output pentodes was
unequal and hence the fidelity of the
output would be adversely affected.
So these resistors were replaced too,
to solve this problem.
The RF alignments were touched
up using the magic eyes to show peak
alignment. The performance was quite
satisfactory. For best performance,
each tuner must be used with its own
aerial as connecting both receivers to
the one aerial causes signal “suck out”
and other undesirable effects. This is
a bit of a nuisance and probably was
another reason why the product concept didn’t really catch on.
Summary
Pioneer produced a very good twin
AM tuner cum stereo amplifier, of high
quality for the era of its construction.
It is a bit crowded under the chassis
but everything can be got at.
The received audio quality on radio
stations is excellent. On the down-side
the bandwidth is so good that 9kHz
inter-station heterodyne whistles are
quite obvious at night. 9kHz notch
filters would no doubt eliminate this
problem.
We had 10kHz station spacing at the
time this set would have come to Australia and perhaps the 10kHz whistles
may not have been so obvious. Some
high performance AM sets did have
these filters, however. Certainly it is
an interesting instrument which the
Japanese entrepreneurs hoped would
suit the stereo system that appeared
might take on in Australia.
There would be very few of this style
of twin AM stereo receiver in Australia
so they are well worthwhile collecting.
It would be worth keeping an eye out
for one in your local branch of Cash
Converters.
SC
September 1999 57
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions from
readers are welcome and will be paid for at standard rates.
Dry cell battery checking
This simple, easy-to-use tester
was developed to check 9V batteries in radio microphones. Used by
non-technical staff, it gives a definite
Go/NoGo indication that means that
useable batteries are not discarded.
The advantage of the device is
that, unlike a conventional DMM,
there is no need to switch it on,
select the appropriate range, handle
probes, interpret the read
ing and
then switch off.
The circuit is based on ICL7665
under/over voltage detector chip in
an 8-pin package. The chip draws its
power from the battery being tested
and it will work down to around
2V. It has two internal comparators
which use the same 1.3V reference
voltage (1.3V). Each comparator has
effectively two outputs which change
state, depending on the actual voltage being measured.
Trimpots VR1 & VR2 set the upper
and lower voltage thresholds, respec-
tively, for the circuit. For example,
you could set trimpot VR1 so that
batteries delivering 8V or more were
given a pass, indicated by LED1
turning on.
Similarly, you could set trimpot
VR2 to fail any batteries which deliver less than 7.5V, turning on LED3.
The third output of the circuit is
used to drive LED2 and this comes
on for batteries delivering more than
7.5V but less than 8V.
The three LEDs should be high
brightness types. R3 should be chosen to provide a suitable load for the
battery. With a value of 470Ω, the
nominal load current will be 20mA.
For many applications this will
not be adequate and R3 will need to
be reduced in value.
Brian Critchley,
Elanora Heights, NSW. ($20)
Foolproof audio compressor
This circuit was developed for
an application where foolproof
compression was needed with no
user-adjustable controls. Accordingly, the attack time is pre-set, with
the release time being automatically
determined, by the instantaneous
amplitude of the input signal.
In operation, the op amp functions
with a maximum gain of around 470,
as set by the 470kΩ and 1kΩ feedback resistors. Transistor Q1 buffers
the output to feed diode D1 which
rectifies the signal and produces a
DC voltage which is proportional
to the signal. When the output from
the diode is above 0.6V, it turns on
transistor Q2 which shunts the input
signal, depending on how hard it is
turned on.
The noise-gate feature is useful for
eliminating quiet passages during
58 Silicon Chip
program material. This is achieved
by connecting the .01uF capacitor
across Q2 via switch S1. This forms
a low-pass filter in conjunction with
the 1MΩ and 220kΩ resistors, with
the cut-off frequency dependent on
the base current of the BC549. The op
amp is an LF357, which gives the
circuit a good frequency response
from around 20Hz to 40kHz. The
single voltage rail enables it to be
powered from a 9V battery.
S. Williamson,
Hamilton, NZ. ($30)
WARNING:
The whole of this circuit operates at mains
potential and is therefore dangerous.
It MUST be housed in a case which gives
suitable insulation. Do NOT work on this
circuit when power is applied.
Surveillance lights with buzzer
This security lighting system
was devised after thieves visited a
residential property and stole some
equipment from the backyard during
the night.
The basis of the security light was a
12V PIR module sourced from Oatley
Electronics. This unit has an output
which switches high whenever movement is sensed.
Unfortunately though, in its original form it would turn on a light at
any time of the day or night.
The solution was to connect an
LDR circuit across the output of the
PIR. The resistance of the LDR is low
during daylight hours and it, together
with series 18kΩ resistor and 20kΩ
trimpot VR1, hold the PIR’s output
low.
At night the LDR’s resistance rises
to several megohms, allowing the
PIR’s output to swing high whenever
movment is sensed.
The output of the timer is used to
control two timers. One turns on a
floodlight for five minutes while the
other sounds a piezo buzzer (with
inbuilt oscillator) ten seconds inside
the house.
The complete circuit, including the
PIR module, is directly powered from
the 240VAC mains supply. This type
of supply must only be used where
there are no user controls accessible, as the whole circuit is at mains
potential.
The wiring from the control unit to
the PIR module must also be 240VAC
mains-rated.
Do not attempt to construct this
circuit if you are not experienced in
240V mains projects.
The circuit works as follows: The
incoming mains voltage is fed via a
100Ω 1W resistor and 0.68µF 250VAC
capacitor to diodes D1 & D2.
On positive half-cycles, diode D1
conducts and charges the 470µF capacitor C1. On negative half-cycles,
D2 conducts to discharge the 0.68µF
capacitor, ready for next half-cycle.
The 12V 1W zener diode limits the
voltage across C1 and the resulting
12V supply rail powers IC1, IC2,
Q1, the relay and buzzer and the PIR
module.
IC1 is a 4060 binary divider which
has one inverter connected as an oscillator to provide a source of clock
pulses. These are divided by a factor
of 214 to provide the 5-minute period
for which the floodlight is turned on.
Normally the output Q14 of IC2 is
high, preventing the oscillator from
working. When the PIR’s output goes
high, the output of IC1a will go low
and the outputs of IC1b & IC1c will
go high, resetting IC2 and allowing
the oscillator to run.
While IC2 is being clocked, the
waveform at pin 10 is fed via diode
D3 to continually charge the 0.1µF
capacitor C2, at the gate of FET Q1.
This causes Q1 to turn on and energise the relay and this connects the
floodlight to the 240VAC supply. The
relay is a 12V unit with a 400Ω coil
(Altronics S-4160).
After 214 counts, when Q14 of IC2
goes high, diode D4 holds pin 11
high preventing the oscillator from
working. The 22MΩ at Q1’s gate will
discharge capacitor C2 and the relay
will drop out, turning the floodlight
off after about five minutes.
The outputs of IC1a and IC1b also
feed the buzzer B1 through diode D7.
Pin 12 of IC1d is connected to pin 9
of IC2 while pin 13 of IC1d goes to
pin 5 of IC2.
The resultant output from pin 11
of IC1d is fed to the buzzer which
only sounds when the outputs of
IC1b and IC1c are high. When they
are low diode D7 is reverse biased
and no sound will be produced. The
buzzer is a low-current type such as
Altronics Cat S-6109.
The buzzer will only sound while
the PIR output is high. If the intruder stays in the PIR range and moves
around, the buzzer will keep sounding and the floodlight will stay on,
as the timer will be reset each time
movement is detected.
If the buzzer does not sound for
long enough, it can be extended by
increasing the value of capacitor C3
at the inputs of IC1b and IC1c.
SILICON CHIP
September 1999 59
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au
Design by EUGENE W. VAHLE JR.*
Digital electrolytic
capacitance meter
Do you need to check large value electrolytic
capacitors? Unfortunately, you can’t do it
with the capacitance ranges on your digital
multimeter or even with most capacitance
meters. You need this special purpose
instrument which can measure electrolytic
capacitors ranging from around 10mF up to
as high as 999,900mF – yep, almost 1 Farad.
The problem with electrolytic capacitors is threefold. First is the sheer
value of capacitance which typically
ranges from around 1µF to many thousands of microfarads. Normal measur
ing techniques which essentially
measure the capacitor’s im
pedance
at a particular frequency just don’t
work. Because the capacitance is so
high, the impedance is just too low to
measure unless you use quite low test
frequencies or resort to special circuit
techniques.
Second, electrolytic capacitors
need to be charged (or polarised)
to present a reliable and consistent
capacitance value. Third, compared
with every other type of capacitor,
elec
trolytics can have quite a high
leakage current and this can confuse
a normal capacitance measuring instrument.
So how does this instrument get
around these problems? Instead of
trying to measure impedance with a
test frequency, this circuit measures
the time taken to charge the capacitor
to a particular voltage. It is based on
the following formula for capacitance:
C = Q/V
where C is capacitance in Farads, V
is the voltage applied to the capacitor
and Q stands for charge in Coulombs.
Without getting too technical, if
we pump charge into a capacitor at a
September 1999 63
CLOCK
IC2
CONSTANT
CURRENT
SOURCE Q9
4-DIGIT
COUNTER
IC1
7-SEGMENT
LED DISPLAYS
COMPARATOR
Q5, Q6
Constant-current source
CUT
Fig.1: the block diagram of the Electrolytic Capacitance Meter shows
a constant current source to the charge the capacitor under test
(CUT), a comparator and the 4-digit counter. The meter measures the
time period to charge the test capacitor to 4V.
known rate, the time taken to reach a
certain voltage is directly proportional
to the capacitance. We could write this
as an equation too but suffice to say
that pumping charge into a capacitor
at a known or fixed rate is exactly the
same as charging it with a constant
current source. And that is exactly
what this circuit does, as shown in
the block diagram of Fig.1.
The constant current source charges
the capacitor under test (CUT) while
the counter is clocked. When the capacitor reaches a particular voltage, a
comparator stops the counter and the
displayed value is the capacitance.
Pretty simple, eh?
Our Electrolytic Capacitance Meter
is quite simple. It has a 4-digit 7-segment LED display, a 4-position range
switch, a toggle switch with Test and
Discharge positions and the terminals
for the capacitor.
So let’s test a capacitor. First, turn
the unit on, connect a capacitor to
the terminals, making sure that the
negative lead goes to the black terminal and flip the toggle switch to
the discharge setting. If the capacitor
has some charge in it, the red LED
will come on briefly and then go out,
to signify that the capacitor is now
discharged. Now flip the toggle switch
to the test position and the 4-digit
display will start counting up from
zero. Depending on the value of the
capacitor, the count will stop after a
few seconds and the value shown is
the capacitance in microfarads.
What about the range switch? It has
four settings: x0.1, x1, x10 and 100.
So if the displayed value is 1500, for
example, and the range switch is set
to x1, then the value is 1500µF.
Most electrolytic capacitors have
large tolerances, ranging from -20%
64 Silicon Chip
DC (Vcc). This voltage is applied to
the two 5V regulators (REG1 & REG2).
REG1 is wired in conventional fashion
and produces a +5V output. REG2,
on the other hand, is wired in an
unconventional manner which we’ll
explain shortly.
to +80%, meaning that a capacitor
specified as 1000µF might have an
actual capacitance of as little as 800µF
(-20%) or as much as 1800µF (+80%).
Other capacitor types have a lower
tolerance (±10%). For capacitors with
substantial series resistance (such as
double layer capacitors used in memory backups), the formulas provided
later on in Table 1 can be used to
find the actual capacitance and series
resistance.
About the circuit
Refer now to Fig.2 for the complete
circuit of the Electrolytic Capacitance
Meter. As shown, it uses two integrated circuits: IC1, a 74C926 4-digit
counter/multiplexed 7-segment dis
play driver and IC2, a 7555 CMOS
oscillator/timer. In addition, there
are 10 transistors (Q1-Q10), two 5V
regulators (REG1 & REG2), a bridge
rectifier (D1-D4), two light-emitting
diodes (LED1 & LED2) and four 7-segment LED displays.
Power for the device comes from a
12V AC plugpack. Its output is rectified by diodes D1-D4 and filtered by
a 470µF capacitor to give about 18V
Special Notice
*This project and article has
been adapted with permission
from an article in the May 1999
issue of the American magazine
Popular Electronics. The original
design did not have a PC board
and this has been produced by
SILICON CHIP staff.
The Popular Electronics design
was also based on the 74C925
instead of the 74C926 used here
since it is more readily available.
The output from the bridge rectifier
is also applied to a range-select resistor network via S2a and then to the
emitter of transistor Q9. These components, in company with REG2, form
a rather odd-looking constant-current
source. Let’s see how it works.
REG2 is a 7905 -5V regulator. Usually, the GND terminal of a 3-terminal
regulator is referenced to GND or the
0V rail in a circuit but in this case, the
input (IN) is grounded while the GND
terminal is jacked up to +18V by connecting it to the bridge rectifier output. Because the regulator delivers a
-5V rail with respect to the GND terminal, this means that the output will
be at +13V (ie, Vcc - 5V).
As a result, Q9’s base is held at a
constant 5V below the Vcc rail and
so its emitter maintains a constant
voltage across the selected range resistor. This causes Q9 to function as
a constant current source.
After subtracting the 0.6V developed across the base-emitter junction
of Q9, the voltage across the selected
range resistor will be approximately
4.4V. This means that the current
through the selected range resistor
will be 44µA for the x0.1 range, 440µA
for the x1 range, 4.4mA for the x10
range and 44mA for the x100 range.
A 1µF capacitor is included to filter
the output of REG2, while the parallel 2.2kΩ resistor sets the minimum
load on REG2’s output. This is done
because on the 44µA (x0.1) range, the
base current needed for Q9 is very
small (around 0.4µA).
Comparator stage
Let’s now take a look at the comparator circuit which is based on
Q5 & Q6. First, a +4.5V reference
voltage is derived from a 220Ω/2kΩ
voltage-divider network across the
output of REG1. This reference voltage
is applied to the base of Q10 (which
means that Q10’s emitter will be at
+5.1V) and also to the emitter of Q6.
The comparator is used to halt the
count when the voltage across the
test capacitor reaches 4V. It works
as follows: when S1 is in the discharge position, +5.1V is applied to
the base of Q6 via a 2.2MΩ resistor.
Since the emitter of PNP transistor
Q6 is at +4.5V, it is biased off and it
removes base drive to Q5 so Q5 is off
as well. With Q6 turned off, pin 5 of
IC1 is pulled low via a 1MΩ resistor
(between Q6’s collector and ground),
thus latching the count into IC1 and
transferring the latched data to the
display.
At the same time, with Q5 off, pin
13 goes high and resets IC1’s internal
counter to 0000 (resetting the counter
has no effect on the latched data).
If S1 is now set to the TEST position, the base of Q6 is pulled low
via the test capacitor (which initially
acts as a short-circuit), thus turning
it on. This pulls pin 5 of IC1 high,
turning the internal latch off. At the
same time, Q5 turns on and a low is
applied to pin 13 of IC1 to release the
reset on the counter.
The test capacitor now charges via
constant current source Q9. The rate
at which it charges is determined by
the selected range resistor and during
this time, IC1 is clocked by IC2. When
the voltage across the test capacitor
reaches about 4V, Q6 turns off again,
latching the final count into the display and resetting the counter again.
The charge on the test capacitor
then continues to increase until it
reaches a level that’s sufficient to
forward-bias Q10, at which point
Q10 turns on and clamps the voltage
to about 5.1V.
The .01µF capacitor at Q6’s collector is included to prev
ent the
2-transistor comparator from false
triggering, while the 0.1µF capacitor
at pin 13 of IC1 ensures that there is
a short delay between the latching
and resetting operations. The 1µF
capacitor at Q9’s collector is also
necessary to prevent false triggering
of the comparator.
Discharge indicator
When S1 is subsequently switched
to the DISCHARGE position, the test
Fig.2 (left): the circuit shows a bridge
rectifier at the power input so a 12V
AC or DC plugpack can be used. Don’t
try using a 555 for IC2 instead of the
7555 specified because it won’t work
as well.
September 1999 65
capacitor discharges through the
parallel-connected 100Ω resistor. As
the capacitor discharges, the voltage
across this resistor turns on transistor
Q8. This turns on Q7 and lights LED2.
When the voltage across the 100Ω resistor drops below 0.6V, Q8 & Q7 turn
off and LED2 extinguishes, indicating
that the unknown capacitor has been
safely discharged.
Counter circuit
There’s plenty of room left inside the case, since most of the circuitry is on
the vertically-mounted PC board. Note how the 7-segment LED displays are
mounted – see text.
66 Silicon Chip
IC1 is a 74C926 4-digit counter/
display driver and is clocked by IC2,
a 7555 CMOS oscillator/timer. The
reason that the CMOS version of the
555 was chosen was because it has a
cleaner output than the standard 555.
IC2 is wired in astable mode and has
an output frequency of 105Hz, as set
by the RC timing components on pins
6 & 7. VR1 allows the output frequency
to be adjusted so that the unit can be
calibrated.
The output from IC2 clocks pin 12
of IC1 and it does this while the test
capacitor charges to 4V. When IC1’s
latch enable (LE) pin is subsequently
pulled low, the value in the counter is
latched and transferred to the segment
driver outputs.
The digit driver outputs of IC1 are at
pins 7, 8, 10 & 11. These multiplex the
common-cathode displays via driver
transis
tors Q1-Q4 at a rate determined by IC1’s internal clock. While
that’s going on, IC1’s segment-driver
outputs (pins 1-4 and 15-17) activate
the appropriate display segments.
The 47Ω resistors connected in series
with IC1’s segment-driver outputs
provide current-limiting, while the
390Ω resistor in series with S2b’s
wiper limits the current to the selected
decimal point.
The decimal points are controlled
via S2b (part of the range switch).
When S2b is in the x1 position,
DISP4’s decimal point turns on.
Similarly, when S2b is in the x0.1
position, DISP3’s decimal point lights.
The other two displays do not need a
decimal point.
Construction
All the components for the Electrolytic Capacitance Meter are assembled
on one PC board, with the Range selector switch (S2) and the 7-segment LED
displays mounted on the copper side.
This allows access to the components
and to the frequency preset trimpot
(VR1) when the PC board is mounted
on the front panel.
The first step, as always, is to check
the board for un
drilled holes and
etching faults. While these are uncommon, it is far easier to check for them
before beginning the assembly, rather
than getting half-way though and then
finding it necessary to drill a hole.
Fig.3 shows the assembly details.
The 23 links are best fitted first,
although if you use resistor pigtails
as jumpers you will naturally have
to fit them before the links. The diodes and preset potentiometer come
next, followed by the eight PC stakes
(these mount at the external wiring
positions).
Note that two of these PC stakes are
inserted directly adjacent to the wiper
pads for switch S2. Fig.4 shows the
location of these two stakes.
Next, install the transistors, diodes,
capacitors (including the electrolytics) and the two 3-terminal regulators.
Lie the 470µF electrolytic capacitor
(adjacent to the 7805 5V regulator)
flat against the PC board to keep it
away from the regulator’s heatsink.
Note that the four diodes have their
cathode bands all facing in the same
direction.
Parts List
1 PC board, code 04109991,
195 x 62mm
1 plastic case, 200 x 70 x 160mm,
Jaycar HB5912 or equivalent
1 Perspex window, red or
smoked grey, 57 x 23mm
1 12V AC or DC plugpack
1 panel-mount socket to suit
plugpack
1 2-pole 6-position PC-mounting
rotary switch with indexing
lug, 2 nuts & toothed washer
1 SPDT toggle switch
1 binding post terminal (red)
1 binding post terminal (black)
1 TO-220 heatsink
2 20-way pin strips, Jaycar
PI6743 or equivalent
1 knob to suit rotary switch
9 PC board stakes
1 3mm x 18mm threaded spacer
1 3mm x 6mm CSK head
machine screw
1 3mm x 6mm machine screw
2 3mm solder lugs
1 20kΩ horizontal PC-mount
trimpot (VR1)
Semiconductors
1 74C926 4-digit counter/display
driver (IC1)
1 7555 CMOS timer (IC2)
1 7805 5V regulator (REG1)
1 7905 -5V regulator (REG2)
Take care to ensure that the electrolytic capacitors are all correctly
oriented. Also, be sure to use the 7805
device for REG1 and the 7905 for REG2
(don’t get them mixed up).
NOTE: the PC board has been laid
out to suit 2N2222 transistors in the
TO-18 metal can package but they are
also available as TO-92 plastic packs.
Unfortunately, the pinouts for the two
packages are different (see Fig.2). If
you have TO-92 transistors, the trick is
to bend the base (centre) lead of each
transistor towards the flat on its body.
The transistor will then slot straight
into the board.
Make sure that the transistor lead
connections are correct; the circuit
won’t work if you get them mixed up.
Rotary switch mounting
The rotary switch is inserted from
the copper side of the PC board. Before
4 2N2222 NPN transistors (Q1-Q4)
2 2N3904 NPN transistors (Q5,Q8)
2 2N3906 PNP transistors (Q6,Q7)
2 2N2905/2N2907 PNP transistors
(Q9,Q10)
4 1N4001/4004 1A diodes
(D1-D4)
4 7-segment common cathode
displays (DISP1-DISP4)
1 5mm green LED (LED1)
1 5mm red LED (LED2)
Capacitors
1 470µF 25VW PC electrolytic
3 100µF 16VW PC electrolytic
2 1µF 50V PC electrolytic
2 0.1µF MKT polyester
2 0.1µF monolithic ceramic
2 .01µF MKT polyester
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 2.2MΩ
1 2.2kΩ
2 1MΩ
1 2kΩ
1 100kΩ
2 1kΩ
1 47kΩ
1 390Ω
1 39kΩ
1 220Ω
1 22kΩ
1 150Ω
1 15kΩ
2 100Ω
1 10kΩ
7 47Ω
1 4.7kΩ
Miscellaneous
Tinned copper wire for links, light
duty hook-up wire
mounting it, solder 25mm lengths of
tinned wire to the two common pins.
This done, push the switch pins and
wires through the board holes until
the 12 outside pins are just protruding
through on the component side.
The outside pins can now all be
soldered on the copper side of the
board. You will need a soldering iron
with a small tip for this job. It’s best to
solder a couple of diagonally opposite
pins first, as this will make it easier to
ensure that the switch is square with
the board.
Once the switch soldering has been
completed, connect the wire leads
from the common pins to the adjacent
PC stakes (see Fig.4).
Regulator REG1 must be fitted with
a small finned heatsink to keep it cool.
You will need to drill another hole in
this heatsink, towards one side, so that
it can be offset to clear the lid of the
September 1999 67
Fig.4: two short wires from PC stakes
are used to connect the wipers of the
rotary switch.
7-segment LED displays can be made
by first drilling a series of small holes
around the inside perimet
er, then
knocking out the centre piece and
filing the cutout to a smooth finish.
The indicator LEDs, toggle switch
(S1) and the two test terminals (red
to the wiper of S1, black for earth)
can now be installed. The terminals
used in the prototype had locating
lugs which meant that matching holes
had to be filed in the front panel after
the centre holes were drilled. These
locating lugs stop the terminals from
rotating when the binding posts are
tightened or undone.
Once the terminals are mounted
on the front panel and the solder lugs
fitted, the excess lengths must be cut
off so that they don’t foul the PC board.
As long as they are shorter than the
switch terminals, they will be OK.
Final assembly
Fig.3(a): take care when installing the 2N2222 transistors because their pinouts
are different depending on whether you have the metal TO-18 type or the plastic
TO-92s (see text). Fig.3(b) at right shows the full-size PC board artwork.
case (see photo). Smear some thermal
grease on the mating surfaces before
bolting REG1 to the heatsink.
Case preparation
The plastic case must have the five
lugs at the front of the bottom and the
two at the front of the lid removed, to
68 Silicon Chip
allow the PC board to sit in position.
This is easily done by drilling them
out or using a sharp chisel and a small
hammer.
Next, use the front panel label as
a template to mark out and drill the
holes for the various items of hardware. The rectangular cutout for the
The wiring between the front panel
and the PC board is straightforward.
Use light, flexible leads to allow the
panel to fit close to the PC board without jamming or straining the wires
but leave these wires long enough
to be able to access the PC tracks if
you fold down the front panel. The
power leads from the back panel can
be soldered in later.
The anode leads for the two LEDs
are wired to their respective stakes on
the PC board, while their cathodes are
connected together and wired back
to the EARTH stake. The black test
terminal also connects to the EARTH
stake, while the red terminal goes to
the wiper of switch S1. The other two
The 7-segment LED displays and the rotary switch (S1) are mounted on the
copper side of the PC board. Note that we modified the connections to S1’s
wipers after this photo was taken (they now connect to PC stakes; see Fig.4).
terminals on the switch go to the TEST
and DISCH stakes on the board.
The indexing lug on the rotary
switch should be set to allow for four
positions from the fully anticlockwise
direction then a nut fitted to hold it in
place (ie, three clicks, four positions).
The toothed washer should be fitted
behind the front panel but don’t attach
the front panel just yet.
Now plug the four displays into the
20-way pin strips, making sure that all
the decimal points are at bottom right.
This done, push the 40 pins through
the PC board holes, then fit the front
panel and secure it at one end with a
second nut on the rotary switch. The
other end of the front panel is secured
to the board using an 18mm threaded
spacer and two screws.
Countersink the hole on the front
panel so that the bolt head will not be
visible when you fit the label.
Fig.6 shows the dimensions of the
window for the LED displays. This can
be made from either red or smoked
Perspex and should be about 3mm
thick. The 2 x 3mm rebate around the
outside can be made using an engraving tool (ask your local engraver), a
small router or even a flat file.
Fit the window from the back and
secure it with a couple of drops of
super glue. This done, push the pin
strips forwards until the displays
touch the window, then tack solder
the four corner pins. Check that the
alignment is satisfactory before soldering the remaining 36 pins.
Next, slide the front panel into the
plastic case guides and check that
the lid fits properly and does not
foul the heatsink. You can then fit the
plugpack socket to the rear panel and
connect it to the two PC stakes near
the diodes.
Testing
To test the unit, first apply power
and check that the power LED lights.
If it doesn’t, you’ve probably got the
LED wired the wrong way around.
Next, use your multimeter to check
for about 18V on the cathodes of D2
and D3 (the actual voltage measured
will depend on the plugpack used).
You should be able to measure the
same voltage on one end of the 2.2kΩ
resistor near REG2 and 5V less (ie,
about 13V) at the other end. Pin 18
of IC1 should measure +5V.
If all voltages are correct (within
±10%), connect a multimeter set to
read a DC current of 50mA (probably
Resistor Colour Codes
No.
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
2
7
Value
2.2MΩ
1MΩ
100kΩ
47kΩ
39kΩ
22kΩ
15kΩ
10kΩ
4.7kΩ
2.2kΩ
2kΩ
1kΩ
390Ω
220Ω
150Ω
100Ω
47Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
red red green brown
brown black green brown
brown black yellow brown
yellow violet orange brown
orange white orange brown
red red orange brown
brown green orange brown
brown black orange brown
yellow violet red brown
red red red brown
red black red brown
brown black red brown
orange white brown brown
red red brown brown
brown green brown brown
brown black brown brown
yellow violet black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
red red black yellow brown
brown black black yellow brown
brown black black orange brown
yellow violet black red brown
orange white black red brown
red red black red brown
brown green black red brown
brown black black red brown
yellow violet black brown brown
red red black brown brown
red black black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
orange white black black brown
red red black black brown
brown green black black brown
brown black black black brown
yellow violet black gold brown
September 1999 69
SILICON
CHIP
+
3
TEST
ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITANCE METER
+
x10
x1
x0.1
RANGE
x100
-+
+
POWER
+
+
+
+
DISCHARGE
DISCHARGING
17
Fig.5: actual size artwork for the front
panel label.
the 200mA range on most digital
meters) across the capacitor terminals
and read the value with the Range
switch set to the x100 range. This
should be around 44mA. Now, stepping anticlockwise, check that the
other ranges measure close to 4.4mA,
440µA and 44µA. This is determined
by the actual output voltage of REG2
70 Silicon Chip
23
51
57
2
Fig.6: dimensions of the window for the LED displays. This can
be made from either red or smoked Perspex and should be about
3mm thick. The 2 x 3mm rebate around the outside can be made
using an engraving tool (ask your local engraver), a small router
or even a flat file.
and the exact value of the selected
range resistor.
Next, connect a 2200µF or 4700µF
capacitor across the terminals, set S2
to the x10 range and set the toggle
switch (S1) to TEST. The display
should start counting up. Wait for five
seconds, then flick the toggle switch
to DISCHARGE.
The Discharge LED should come
on briefly, then extinguish, while the
count should remain fixed on the LED
displays.
Calibration
If you have an electrolytic capacitor
with an accurately known value (say
10,000µF or more), connect it across
the test terminals and check its value
on the x10 range. Now adjust VR1
until the correct value is displayed.
This will have to be done on a trial
and error basis, with the capacitor
re-tested after each adjustment.
On our unit, VR1 had to be adjusted
until it was almost against the clockwise stop. If you find you need more
adjustment, reduce the 39kΩ resistor
which goes to pin 7 of IC2 to 33kΩ.
If you don’t have a known capacitor,
then get several capacitors of the same
nominal value (say 10,000µF or more)
and test each one. You can then select
a unit from the middle of the range
and use this as the standard.
Note that the overall accuracy is
better on the x10 range.
Using the meter
Normally, a quick check is all that
is needed to find a bad capacitor. For
example, there will be times when the
meter won’t stop counting. As illustrated by Table 1, this indicates that
the capacitor has excessive leakage or
an internal short.
Note that when using the x100 range
(44mA), you should let the meter
warm up for a couple of minutes to
allow the circuit to stabilise. That’s
because Q9’s base-emitter junction
voltage varies slightly as the transistor
warms up. This doesn’t pose a major
problem but it can decrease the accuracy until the circuit stabilises.
Computer-grade electrolytic capacitors are designed to have a low
equivalent series resistance (ESR)
while memory backup capacitors
have a fairly high ESR. When testing
a capacitor that has a high ESR, use
the formulas in Table 1 to find the
correct capacitance and ESR. The
formulas aren’t perfect but they’ll get
you close enough.
The meter can be allowed to roll
over (count to 9999 and continue) if
desired. That comes in handy when
it’s necessary to test a larger capacitor
on a lower range. If you suspect, for
instance, that the capacitor being tested has high ESR, testing it on a lower
range gives better accuracy because
of the lower test current.
It is also possible to test a capacitor
larger than 1F on the x100 range using
that method. Let’s look at a couple of
examples:
Example 1: while testing a
300,000µF computer-grade capaci
tor on the x100 range, the meter’s
readout displayed 3855. In that case,
the actual measured capacitance is
3855 x 100 = 385,500µF. On the x10
range, the meter was allowed to roll
over three times, producing a finished count of 9556. The x10-range
capacitance would then be 39,556
x 10 = 395,560µF. Both readings are
high compared with the capacitor’s
specified value and both readings are
within 10% of each other.
The regulator heatsink must be offset
as shown in this close-up photo, to
clear the lid of the case
on the x100 range. In such cases, you
could just accept the reading obtained
on the x10 range or use the formula in
Table 1 to find the correct capacitance
and ESR.
Here, the high-range reading is
too low and the low-range reading is
too high. Table 1 indicates that the
capacitor has either leakage or series
resistance and should be tested with
an ohmmeter. Since we’re checking a
memory-backup capacitor, it becomes
obvious that the erroneous reading is
probably due to series resistance.
In such cases, we’d use the lowrange reading of 47,020µF. Using the
formulas for ESR and capacitance:
(1). ESR = (47,020 - 30,100)/(.011 x 47,020)
= 32.7Ω.
(2). C = ((11 x 47,020) - 30,100)/10 =
48,712µF.
The test terminals, indicator LEDs and test switch
are wired back to PC
stakes on the board.
Referring to Table 1, note that some
leakage is indicated but the capacitor
is otherwise OK and that the highrange reading is correct (the higher
range reading is not the same as the
high reading). This means that this
capacitor is actually about 385,500µF
which is about 29% higher than the
manufacturer’s specifications – but
well within tolerance.
Example 2: while testing a memory
backup capacitor (specified as 0.047F)
on the x100 range, the meter produced
a readout of 30,100µF. On the x 10
range, the meter displayed 47,020µF.
The two readings, of course, are not
within 10% of each other.
It is not difficult to recognise that
the reading on the x10 range is closer
to the correct value because the series
resistance of memory backup capacitors can cause erroneous readings
Example 3: while testing a 2200µF
capacitor on the x10 range, the display
produced a readout of 1610µF. On the
x1 range, the reading was 1636µF.
Both readings are low and within 10%
of each other. Table 1 indicates that the
capacitor has low capacitance and to
take the high-range reading (1610µF)
as the correct value. As it turned out,
the capacitor was low by 27% and
unusable!
Finally, the accuracy of the meter
can be increased using several approaches. For example, the CO (carry
out) output (pin 14) of the counter/
display driver could be used to clock
another counter driving another 7-segment display. This would allow you
to see the rollover, instead of counting
the number of rollovers. Another approach would be to divide the 105Hz
clock frequency by 10 (when you know
there will be roll over), to provide an
SC
additional x1000 range.
September 1999 71
YZ TABLE
WITH STEPPER
MOTOR CONTROL
Part.5: Power
Supply & Software
This power supply has been specifically
designed to power the controller cards and
the stepper motors used in the X-Y-Z Table, as
presented in last month’s issue. In addition,
we show you how to drill your first PC board.
By RICK WALTERS
The software which controls the
three motors energises the Z-axis
motor continuously. Conversely, the X
and Y motors have the power removed
when they are not stepping. This allows us to use a 15V supply for the X
and Y motor driver stages, to ensure
that at least 12V is fed to the motors
after the voltage drop across the driver
transistors is taken into account.
By contrast, the Z-axis motor driver
stages are powered from a +12V rail.
The resulting lower voltage applied
to the Z-axis motor ensures that it
doesn’t overheat during the long periods for which it may be energised.
Keeping the voltage constant on the
X and Y stepper motors allows us to
consistently step them at their maximum speed, regardless as to whether
one or both motors are driven. If the
voltage varied (as it would with an
unregulated supply), we would have
to reduce the maximum stepping rate.
Fig.30 shows the circuit of the
power supply. This is similar to the
Stepper Power Supply described in
the December 1997 issue. The previous unit provided unregulated +18V
& +12V rails, along with a regulated
+5V rail. The revised unit described
here does away with the +18V rail
and provides a regulated +15V rail
instead. It also uses a larger power
transformer.
This was done because the output
of the original supply varied quite a
bit, depending on whether one, two
or three motors were being driven at
any given time.
Circuit details
The circuit is built into a standard plastic case, with binding post terminals
used for the supply outputs. A LED provides power on/off indication.
72 Silicon Chip
As shown in Fig.30, the 30V centre-tapped secondary of the power
transformer is full-wave rectified by
diodes D1 & D2. The output from
the rectifiers is then filtered using a
4700µF capacitor to give around 2022V, depending on the load.
This rail is then fed to 3-terminal
regulator REG2, which provides a
+15V regulated rail to power the
X-axis and Y-axis stepper motors.
This adjustable regulator is rated at
3A, since the X and Y motors will
draw a total current of 1.5A when
they are both stepping. The output
voltage can be trimmed by changing
the 150Ω resistor.
A 470µF capacitor and a parallel
0.1µF capacitor are used to filter the
output from REG2.
The second regulator, REG1, provides a stable +5V rail for the logic
circuits on the controller cards. Its
output is fil
tered using 10µF and
0.1µF capacitors. This bypassing of
the regulator outputs is a precaution
to prevent the regulators from oscillating if we have long leads between
the power supply and the controller
cards and motors.
The +12V rail for the Z-axis stepper
motor is derived from D3. This diode
half-wave rectifies the output from
a 24V tap on the transformer, while
a 4700µF capacitor filters the output. The unloaded output voltage is
around 13.5V but this drops to around
11V as soon as the motor is energised.
For this reason, the software drives
this motor at a slower stepping rate
than the X & Y motors, so that it operates reliably with the lower voltage.
Assembly
Most of the parts are mounted on a
PC board coded 10108993. Fig.31(a)
shows the assembly details.
Fig.30: the circuit provides regulated +5V & +15V supply rails, plus an
unregulated +12V rail.
Begin by installing eight PC stakes
at the external wiring points, then
install the resistors, diodes D1-D3
and 3-terminal regulator REG1 (7805).
Note that D1 & D2 are both 1N5404
types, while D3 is a 1N4004.
Next, install the capacitors, taking
care to ensure that the electrolytics
are correctly oriented. Don’t install
REG2 at this stage, as it’s not mounted
directly on the board.
The completed PC board is housed
Fig.31(a): follow this parts layout diagram
to assemble the PC board.
in standard plastic case, along with
the power transformer. The front
panel carries four banana sockets (0V,
+5V, +12V and +15V) and the power
indicator LED, while the rear panel
carries the cordgrip grommet, safety
fuse and mains switch.
Both the transformer and the PC
board are mounted on an aluminium baseplate (see Fig.32), which is
earthed to ensure electrical safety.
Drill out all the mounting holes in the
Fig.31(b): this is the full-size etching
pattern for the PC board.
September 1999 73
This close-up view shows the completed PC board and the front-panel wiring.
Note that regulator REG2 is mounted on the copper side of the board and has
its metal tab bolted to the baseplate for heatsinking – see Fig.33.
Fig.32: this diagram shows the drilling details for the aluminium baseplate.
74 Silicon Chip
baseplate, then mount the transformer
and earth lug as shown in Fig.34. The
transformer is secured using 4mm
screws, nuts and lockwashers, while
the earth lug is mounted using a 3mm
screw nut and lockwasher.
It’s also a good idea to fit a second
nut to the earth lug, so that the first
nut is locked into place. Make sure
that this assembly is tight.
Regulator REG2 is mounted on the
baseplate, beneath the PC board. This
is necessary to ensure adequate heat
sinking. Fig.33 shows the mounting
details for this device. It must be
electri
cally isolated from the baseplate using an insulating pad and
bush. Make sure that the mounting
area is smooth and free of any metal
swarf (which could puncture the
insulating pad) before bolting the
device down.
Flying leads are used to connect
REG2’s terminals back to its copper
tracks on the PC board. Take care to
ensure that these connections are
all correct (a pinout diagram for the
LM317 is shown on Fig.30) and keep
the leads as short as possible.
It’s a good idea to use a multimeter
to confirm that the metal tab of the
Fig.33: the mounting details for regulator
REG2. Be sure to isolate its metal tab
from the baseplate using an insulating
washer and bush.
regulator is properly isolated from the base
plate. This done, the PC board can be mounted
on 5mm-long standoffs and secured using 3mm
screws, nuts and lockwashers.
The front and rear panels of the case can now
be drilled to accept the various hardware items.
The front panel is best drilled after attaching
the label. Four holes are required to accept the
banana sockets, plus a small hole in the middle
for the LED bezel.
The rear panel hardware can be positioned as
shown in the photos. Use a small file to carefully
profile the hole for the cordgrip grommet so that
it is a precise fit.
A slight problem here is that the plastic end
panel is a bit too thick to suit the grommet.
This means that you will need to chamfer the
top and bottom of the hole on the inside of the
panel to make sure that the grommet locks in
properly (ie, the top and bottom slots in the
grommet must engage the panel). We chamfered
the prototype’s panel using a Stanley knife and
a small file. Take your time with this job and
make sure that the grommet is a neat (tight) fit.
The hole for the mains switch can be made by
first drilling a series of small holes around the
inside perimeter of the marked area and then
knocking out the centre piece and filing the hole
to shape. Once again, make sure that the mains
switch is a tight fit so that it’s secured properly
when pushed into the mounting hole.
The baseplate assembly sits directly on four
standoffs moulded into the base of the case. You
will have to drill 3mm holes through the centre
of each standoff, so that 3mm mounting screws
can be passed through from outside the case.
Once this has been done, the baseplate assembly
can be mounted in position and firmly secured.
Wiring
Now for the internal wiring. The mains cord
Fig.34: the wiring details for the Stepper Power Supply.
September 1999 75
Once the mains wiring has been
completed, the rear panel can be
slipped into position. After that, it’s
simply a matter of completing the
wiring from the PC board to the front
panel and to the secondary terminals
of the transformer. Use medium-duty
hookup wire for this job.
LED1 is wired by connecting it in
series with a 330Ω resistor across the
+5V and 0V output terminals. Its cathode (K) lead must go to the 0V terminal
and this lead will be adjacent to a flat
surface on the LED body (it’s also the
shorter of the two leads).
Testing
Before applying power, check your
wiring carefully and use a multimeter to confirm a good connection
between the transformer metalwork
and the earth terminal of the mains
plug. This done, attach the lid, apply
power and check that the indicator
LED comes on.
Finally, use your multimeter to
check the voltages on the front panel
sockets. You should get readings of
around +15V, +13.5V and +5V with
respect to the 0V terminal.
Modifying the original supply
The rear panel carries the on/off switch, the safety fuseholder and the cord
clamp grommet. Make sure that the mains cord is properly secured and that all
mains wiring is installed in a professional manner.
must be securely clamped by the cordgrip grommet and the Active (brown)
wire connected directly to the fuseholder. The Neutral (blue) lead goes
directly to switch S1, while the Earth
lead (green/yellow) is soldered to the
earth lug on the baseplate. Make the
Earth lead somewhat longer than the
other two leads, so that it will be the
last to come adrift if the mains cord
is reefed out by brute force.
The two primary leads of the power
transformer go to the bottom of S1,
while the remaining terminal on S1 is
76 Silicon Chip
connected back to the second terminal
on the fuseholder. Be sure to sleeve
all terminals on the mains switch and
fuseholder with heatshrink tubing.
This is done by pushing a short length
of heatshrink tubing over each lead
before it is soldered. After soldering,
the heatshrink is then pushed over the
exposed terminal and shrunk down
using a hot-air gun.
Be sure to use 250VAC-rated cable
for all mains wiring. This includes
the wiring to the fuseholder and to
switch S1.
If you built the supply described in
the December 1997 issue, the diodes,
5V regulator and capacitors can be
salvaged for the new PC board. You
will need to purchase the LM317
adjustable regulator plus a few extra
capacitors and the four resistors.
Unfortunately, the old transformer
doesn’t have a high enough secondary
voltage and we had to use a different
type. The good news is that the new
transformer fits on the old baseplate
and you can use the same case.
Although we haven’t tested it, it
may be worthwhile trying the old
transformer if you already have the
previous supply. We suggest that you
connect the +18V rail to the LM317
input and then adjust the 150Ω resistor to give a regulated +14V output.
The existing +12V output can be
used for the Z-axis card. Check this
voltage under load and if it is much
above +12V, fit a 5W series resistor to
drop the voltage to around +12V when
the motor is energised. Because the
motor draws 0.6A, each 1Ω of resistance will drop about 0.6V.
The indicator LED can be added
to the existing +5V rail, as shown in
this article.
Drilling A PC Board
Right, all systems should now be go.
You have built and tested the power
supply and stepper motor driver cards
and wired them to the stepper motors.
The XY table is running smoothly and
you are just itching to drill the PC
board for your latest project.
Well, hopefully, you soon will be
able to. There are just a few more
checks to be made before you get into
the nitty gritty.
We will step back a little for a moment and cover the ground for those
of you who may be a little hesitant
to plough ahead without guidance.
First, if you have already obtained
the XY table software and followed
the wiring in last month’s issue, you
will find that the X arrow keys move
the table in the Y direction and vice
versa. In the XY table software, the
first four terminals at the rear are for
the Y motor and the next four are for
the X motor. However, for all other
software the sequence is X, Y then Z.
To keep all the wiring consistent,
we have modified XYREAD and XYTABLE to conform to this pattern. The
new files are named XYREADM and
XYTABLEM (Modified) to allow you
to distinguish them from the previous
versions. If you wish to modify your
BAS files, all you need to do is edit
line 3140 in each to read FOR A = 1
TO 4: STP(A) = STX(A) * 16 + STY(A):
NEXT. Now you can swap your X and
Y motor connections to conform to
those shown last month.
Pressing R while running the XYTABLE software allows you to select
the stepping rate for the motors. This
is very dependent on the processor
in your computer. We used a 386 for
this project and running under GW
Basic a value of 50 gave good results.
When using the EXE files a value of
2400 gave excellent results.
To get a feel for your machine, start
with these values and set new X and
Y values an inch larger (or smaller)
and listen to the motors step. Keep
increasing the value until they begin
to step smoothly.
You will soon know from the
“clunking” noise they make when
they are mis-stepping, or not stepping
at all, compared to the smooth steps
they make once the stepping rate
value is large enough. Set the count
value so that you can move over the
entire table area without any problems. Remember this number as you
will need it shortly.
We have mentioned previously that
the BAS files are too slow and would
take far too long to carry out any task
but they are fine for experimenting.
This is especially if you wish to alter
the software to suit your needs.
The seven files we mentioned
in the July issue were DRLSE
TUP.
BAS, DRLSETUP.EXE, DRLSETUP.
FIL, DRLTEST.BAS, DRLTEST.EXE,
PCBDRILL.BAS and PCBDRILL.EXE.
We glossed over them briefly then,
as the power supply and new driver
boards were not available at that stage.
We shall now describe the function
of each of these BAS files in a little
more detail.
Setting up
The first (DRLSETUP) is the program to set up the drill parameters.
This simply asks for the maximum X
dimension for your table in inches,
the maximum Y dimension again in
inches, then the stepping rate. Here’s
where you enter that value you had
to remember. The DRLSETUP.FIL has
initial values loaded which you can
accept by pressing the Enter key.
Next the card number (ie, jumper
setting) for the dual stepper motor
card is requested, followed by the card
number for the single stepper card.
Then you are asked whether you want
to display Imperial or metric values.
As we have said in a previous article,
the system was actually designed for
steps of one thousandth of an inch,
as all PC board layouts are in these
measure
ments. The metric display
is only a conversion of the Imperial
value to the closest equivalent.
The next decisions you have to
make are how many fast down and
slow down steps the drill should
make. When a PC board is drilled, the
Z axis motor moves the drill down
until it is a little above the board
and holds it there. When a hole is
to be drilled it just makes a small
movement down and up, thus drilling
the hole.
The initial movement is the number
of fast down steps; the latter is the
number of slow down steps. The sum
Power Supply Parts List
1 240V-15/0/15V power
transformer, DSE M1991 or
equivalent
1 plastic case with plastic end
panels, 190 x 100 x 80mm
4 adhesive rubber feet
1 PC board, code 10108993, 75
x 60mm
1 front panel label, 83 x 67mm
1 240VAC 2-pole mains rocker
switch, Altronics S3212 (or
equivalent)
3 red panel mount banana
sockets
1 black panel mount banana
socket
1 cord grip grommet
1 mains lead with moulded 3-pin
plug
1 M205 safety 240VAC screw
type fuseholder Altronics
S5992 (or equivalent)
1 500mA M205 fuse
1 solder lug
8 PC stakes
4 5mm pillars
1 3mm x 10mm bolt
4 3mm x 15mm bolt
5 3mm nuts
5 3mm star washers
4 3mm flat washers
2 4mm x 12mm bolts
2 4mm star washers
2 4mm flat washers
Semiconductors
1 7805 5V regulator (REG1)
1 LM350T variable output
regulator (REG2)
2 1N5401/5404 power diodes
(D1,D2)
1 1N4001/4004 power diode
(D3)
Capacitors
2 4700µF 25VW RB electrolytic
1 470µF 25VW RB electrolytic
1 10µF 16VW RB electrolytic
2 0.1µF monolithic ceramic
Resistors (1%, 0.25W)
1 1.2kΩ
1 150Ω
1 120Ω
Miscellaneous
Hookup wire, 12mm-diameter
heatshrink tubing, 4mm-diameter
heatshrink tubing.
September 1999 77
Fig.35: this is the test PC board pattern
included with the software. When you drill
a test board following the procedure in the
text, its pattern of holes should match this
artwork.
of these two values cannot exceed 25 as this represents
half a revolution of the motor. Pick 10 and 5 for these for
the moment; you will get another chance later.
The penultimate question is which parallel port you
wish to use. If it is your workshop machine you probably don’t have a printer connected and in this case it
will be LPT1.
The last (ultimate) question is whether you wish to
re-drill the PC board. If you answer no, it means that you
fit an 0.8mm drill and only drill all the holes to this size,
then drill the larger ones by hand later.
To redrill means you want all the holes drilled with
the smallest size drill. The table then returns to home
and asks for the next size drill to be fitted in the chuck.
It then drills all these and so on, until all the holes on
the board are the correct size.
Calibrating the drill depths
The next program, DRLTEST, is used to confirm and
adjust the drill fast down and slow down settings. The
values given previously were just starting values. This
program moves the drill to the fast down position, then
allows you to move it up or down until it sits the distance you desire above the PC board. Once this is done,
it then moves the drill down the number of slow steps
you set in DRLSETUP. If this is unsatisfactory you can
decrease or increase the number, which moves the drill
up or down to the new position.
When you exit the program, the new values are saved
and used in PCBDRILL. Obviously it is wise to make sure
that there is no PC board in the way each time you carry
out this test, as the drill will break when it hits the board
unless you have the drill motor running.
If you look closely at the picture on page 72 of the July
1999 issue, you will see two clamps on the drill support
bar, one towards the table base and one at the other
end. These allow you to readily set the stand position
for plotting or drilling a PC board. We fabricated these
clamps but two automotive hose clamps from the nearest
auto parts outlet would be a lot cheaper.
Once you get the drill in position and moving correctly, slide the clamp up to the drill support and tighten
it. Next time you plan to drill a PC board you can just
slide the support down until it touches the clamp, then
tighten the support knob.
Drilling a test board
The remaining program is PCBDRILL which should
indicate its purpose. If you don’t yet have Protel or are
not familiar enough with it to lay out a PC board, we
have included a file called LCOSW.PCB, available both
from our website (www.siliconchip.com.au) and on
the floppy we supply with this software. The two files
generated by Protel (LCOSW.TOL and LCOSW.TXT) are
also included.
78 Silicon Chip
LCOSW.PCB is just a small board 100 x 20mm with
61 holes, including 14 for an IC, which will let you play
around with the program and confirm the motor stepping
rate and general operation of the XYZ table.
PCBDRILL asks for the name of the PC board file to
drill. In this case you type LCOSW in upper or lower
case. If you add the .PCB suffix it will be accepted; if
you omit it, the program will add it. Computers are supposed to save us time so why should we type any more
characters than necessary?
You will then be asked whether you want to flip the
artwork. Normally, you lay out a PC board from the top
(called the laminate or component) side and that is the
side you would drill from. But as we plan to plot our
boards then drill them, we will be working from the copper side and this is why it will be necessary to flip the
layout. Pressing Enter or Y will flip it, while N maintains
the view from the component side.
Just to make things awkward, LCOSW.PCB was drawn
looking at the copper side and does not need to be flipped.
If you only plan to drill boards this could be a reason
to alter the software to make Enter the no flip default.
You now have to set up your computer with a directory named PROTEL, then two subdirectories below this
named TRAXEDIT and TRAXPLOT. The software looks
for LCOSW.TXT and LCOSW.TOL in the TRAXPLOT
subdirectory. If you don’t follow this setup, the software
won’t work.
Setting up directories
All software accessing output ports (printer) directly
should be run from DOS, so if you run Windows select
START, SHUTDOWN, then click “Restart in MSDOS
Mode” and click OK. You will be dumped in the WINDOWS directory. Then Type CD\ and press Enter, which
will place you in the root directory of your hard disk.
To make a directory, type MD PROTEL and press Enter,
then type MD PROTEL\TRAXPLOT and press Enter.
Next, type MD PROTEL\TRAXEDIT and press Enter.
Now you must copy the files to the TRAXPLOT directory. Type COPY A:LCOSW.TXT C:\PROTEL\ TRAXPLOT (press Enter), then type COPY A:LCOSW.TOL C:\
PROTEL\TRAXPLOT (press Enter). This assumes you
have obtained a floppy from SILICON CHIP.
Alternatively, if you download the files from our
website, you must also place the two LCOSW files in the
TRAXPLOT subdirectory. LCOSW.PCB must be copied
to the TRAXEDIT directory (COPY A:LCOSW.PCB C:\
PROTEL\ TRAXEDIT). The other seven files should be
placed in the BAS directory. If you haven’t yet created
one, from the root directory (where you should still be),
type MD BAS (press Enter). Then COPY A:P*.* \BAS
(press Enter), then COPY A:D*.* \BAS (press Enter). The
messages should read 2 files copied, then 5 files copied.
When you want to run the programs, load DOS as
described above, then when C:\WINDOWS shows,
type CD\BAS (press Enter) and you will be placed in
the BAS directory, from where you can run any BASIC
or EXE program.
Setting up Protel
Once you have laid out a PC board using Protel and
saved it, you have to create the TXT and TOL files we
have just talked about. To do this, change to the PROTEL
TRAXPLOT directory and type TRAXPLOT. Press the
spacebar to access the first menu and the FILE menu
will be highlighted. Press ENTER, then use the down
arrow key to move to LOAD and then press ENTER again.
If the entry does not read C:\PROTEL\TRAXEDIT\*.
PCB, then type this and press ENTER.
You should now see LCOSW.PCB highlighted and
pressing ENTER will load this file then return you to
the FILE menu. Pressing ESC will get you back to the
TRAXPLOT menu. Move down to SETUP, press ENTER,
then move down to NC DRILL and press ENTER again.
The box should read:
OUTPUT FILE : C:<at>LCOSW
X OFFSET 0.000 inches
Y OFFSET 0.000 inches
METHOD : GENERATE
TOOL TABLE C:<at>LCOSW
MATCH OVERSIZE: 0
MATCH UNDERSIZE: 0.
If all these entries are correct, press ESC twice to get
back to the main menu. If these entries aren’t all correct,
move to the line(s) with the incorrect entry and press
ENTER to allow you to edit the value.
Move the cursor down to NC DRILL and press ENTER.
You will be asked CONFIRM PROCEED WITH NC DRILL
(press Y). The box will show:
TOOL FILE GENERATED LCOSW.TOL
Press any key to continue
When you do this, the next message will be:
DRILL FILES GENERATED
C:\PROTEL\TRAXPLOT\LCOSW.DRL
C:<at>LCOSW.TXT
Press any key to continue
Pressing a key will get you back to the main menu after
which you press ENTER as FILE is highlighted, move to
QUIT (press ENTER) then enter Y to exit to DOS.
This probably all sounds quite daunting if you have
not done it before but believe me, it is heaps easier to
actually do it than to describe how to do it. In any case,
the reason we supply the LCOSW files is to save you
these initial hassles.
By the way, if you have downloaded Easytrax or if you
have Autotrax, you will have to save all the EDIT files
to the PROTEL\TRAXEDIT directory and all the PLOT
files to the PROTEL\TRAXPLOT directory. If you don’t
do this, you won’t be able to set up the files using Protel
as described above. Note also that if you have Easytrax,
you should type EASYPLOT and EASYEDIT instead of
TRAXPLOT and TRAXEDIT.
Next month we will describe the pen holder and the
software for plotting a pattern directly onto the copper
of a PC board. This will allow you to make your own PC
SC
boards, provided you have etching facilities.
September 1999 79
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
Altronic’s Aussie Maxi Mount
bracket gets world-wide sales
Designed and manufactured in
Australia by Altronic Distributors, this
high capacity speaker swivel mount
is being exported in significant quantities to North America and Europe,
where it is very popular with professional speaker installers.
The bracket is designed for quick and
easy installation, requiring no special
tools and can handle a payload of up
to 15kg, making it suitable for most
small to medium speakers. It also suits
a wide variety of other uses such
as security lights, CCTV cameras
and so on. It can be swivelled
up to 50° in either the vertical or
horizontal plane and with optional hardware can mount to brick/
masonry, timber or plaster walls.
Retail price is $59 per pair.
For more information contact
Altronic Distributors, Perth, Tel
(08) 9328 2199, Fax (08) 9328
4459.
Kenwood Power Supplies
from Nilsen
Nilsen Technologies have released two new
power supplies, the Kenwood PAC series DC (top)
and the Kenwood PDS series of EMC compliant
lab models (bottom).
The PAC series is available in outputs from
0-20V to 0-60V (3A) with load regulation of
4-8mV max. The PDS series are equipped with
active smoothing filters and have very low output
noise. Outputs available are 0-20V (18A) up to
0-120V (6A). For more information contact Nilsen
Technologies, Freecall 1800 623 350, Feefax 1800
067 263.
High Accuracy, Rugged Instrumentation Amp
The Linear Technology LT1920 amplifier
from REC Electronics is capable of withstanding input faults of +/-100V DC and
spikes of over 8kV, yet is accurate to 30
parts per million.
With industry-standard pinout and
compact SO-8 package, it is suitable for
a wide range of precision data acquisition.
Contact REC ELectronics on (02) 9638
1888 or via www.rec.com.au
Hobbyist/Handyman Bit Set
Do you have devices or appliances that need fixing –
but you can't find the right bit to undo the screws?
Dick Smith Electronics has released a 101-piece bit set
that has just about everything the hobbyist, handyman
and the technician could want.
It features a magnetised bit holder along with flat and
Philips, square, hex, Torx, Security Torx, Tri-wing and
more, all in a handy storage case.
The bits should fit a cordless drill or power screwdriver, too.
With a recommended retail price of $36.80, the Bit Set
(Cat. T-4513) is available at all Dick Smith Electronics
stores or from their mail order service on 1300 366 644.
80 Silicon Chip
Jands’ Studio
Microphone Clinic
Jands Electronics, an Australian professional audio, lighting and staging
manufacturer and distributor hosts
regular ‘Industry Nights’ for the audio
and lighting industry.
Course notes, demos and guest
speakers are all provided free.
The next Industry Night, on 7
September at The Globe in Newtown
covers the selection and placement of
studio microphones.
Presenter Nick Orsatti said that the
topics will include close miking and
ambient techniques, stereo miking
and techniques for multi-channel
surround recording.
To register or for more information,
please contact Jands Electronics on
02 9582 0909.
FOR SALE
Audio Service Business
+ 25 Acre Bush Property
NSW South Coast – 10mins from Moruya,
20mins from Bateman's Bay.
Business established 20 years. Great potential for expansion into TV/VCR if required.
Large 3-4 bedroom passive solar stone house
– many features. Large workshop.
Phone (02) 4474 2985
or email brunnion<at>sci.net.au
L
LECTRONICSHOWCASELEC
SPEAKER SALE
For the very first time we are having
a sale of selected loudspeaker drivers
from the prestige MOREL line.
On sale are two drivers:
UNIVERSAL
WIRELESS
DEVELOPMENT SYSTEM
Linx RF modules from Clarke & Severn
Electronics offer a simple, efficient and
cost-effective method of making a product
wireless. Want to know more? Contact
CLARKE & SEVERN ELECTRONICS
PO Box 1, Hornsby NSW 1630
Ph (02) 9482 1944 Fx 9482 1309
email: sales<at>clarke.com.au www.clarke.com.au
MW 265
EMC Technologies' internationally
recognised Electromagnetic
Compatibility (EMC) test facilities are fully
accredited for emissions, immunity and
safety standards.
222mm Shielded Woofer,
Fs 30Hz ,Vas 88.6L Qts 0.44
Power 150W
Hexatech voice coil
Normally $190
EMC Technologies
DMS 30S
Melbourne: (03) 9335 3333
Sydney: (02) 9899 4599
NOW $130
27mm Shielded Dome Tweeter,
94mm dia. Fs 650Hz Power 200W
Hexatech voice coil
Double chambered Sens 90dB
Normally $129
NOW $75
All other MOREL products
available – many ex-stock
We are sole Australian Distributors for:
• CLIO Electro-Acoustic Measurements
• SOFIA Vacuum Tube Curve Tracer
• JASPER Power Router Circle Jigs
Australian Audio Consultants
Web site:
Email:
www.mgram.com.au
info<at>mgram.com.au
BUSINESS FOR SALE:
Vamtest Pty Ltd trading as Microgram Computers A.C.N. 003 062 100
Unit 1, 14 Bon Mace Close
Berkeley Vale NSW 2261
Phone: (02) 4389 8444 Fax: (02) 4389 8388
SWITCHMODE POWER SUPPLIES
25W500W
Extensive
Range
Escape to the sun in beautiful Coffs Harbour!
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Stable electronic retail business
Easily run by husband and wife team.
Agent for GSM carrier
Access to large electronics suppliers (niche market).
Very strong customer base inc Government depts
and schools etc.
Five year rental option on current highway premises.
Full figures available.
Current owners (12 years) are moving to a new
business.
Price only $55,000 + SAV.
Enquiries: Hunter & Associates (02) 6651 6818
R.T.N
• Basic Stamps, SX chips and tools.
• OZ-made boards and development tools
• Best pricing on temp, a/d, rtc kits
• New Xilinx PLCC44 development system
• New OZ made serial LCD module 2*16
• Stepper and R/C servo motor chips
• New super catalog on CD Rom with 40 meg of
Stamp related data. Now available via SAE and
our cost $4.50, or free with orders over $125
Phone/Fax 03-9338-3306
HTTP://people.enternet.com.au/~nollet
Email: nollet<at>mail.enternet.com.au
PO Box 11, Stockport SA 5410
Phone / Fax 08-85-282-201
E-mail aac<at>rbe.net.au
MicroZed Computers
GENUINE STAMP PRODUCTS
FROM
Scott Edwards Electronics
microEngineering Labs & others
Easy to learn, easy to use, sophisticated
CPU based controllers & peripherals.
PO Box 634, ARMIDALE 2350
(296 Cook’s Rd)
6 Sarich Court, Technology Park, Bentley WA 6102
Ph: 08 9470 1177 Fax 08 9470 2844
web: www.computronics.com
NEW FROM
QUESTRONIX
DVS5 Video & Audio
Distribution Amplifier
Ph (02) 6772 2777 – may time out to
Mobile 0409 036 775 Fax (02) 6772 8987
http://www.microzed.com.au
Most Credit Cards OK
DVS5
Video & Audio
Distribution
Amplifier
VGS2
Graphics
Splitter
Five identical Video and Stereo
outputs plus h/phone & monitor
out. S-Video & Composite versions
available. Professional quality.
VGS2 Graphics Splitter
High resolution 1in/2out VGA
splitter. Comes with 1.5m
HQ cable and 12V supply.
Custom-length HQ VGA
cables also available.
Check our NEW website for latest prices and
MONTHLY SPECIALS
www.questronix.com.au
Email - questav<at>questronix.com.au
Video Processors, Colour Correctors, Stabilisers, TBC's, Converters, etc.
QUESTRONIX
All mail: PO BoxS548,
Wahroonga
NSW 2076
eptember
1999 81
Ph (02) 9477 3596 Fax (02) 9477 3681
Visitors by appointment only
TECHNICAL
LOOK: TEN NEW
NEW!
TCP/IP
EXPLAINED
By Philip Miller. Published 1997.
$
90
This concise and practical book offers readers
an in-depth understanding of the Internet
Protocol suite. It assumes no prior knowledge
of TCP/IP, only a basic understanding of LAN
access protocols, explaining all the elements
and alternatives. It leads the reader through
the Internet protocols, combining study
questions with reference material. Examples
of network designs and implementations are
given. 518 pages, in paperback, at $90.00.
LOCAL AREA NETWORKS:
An Introduction to the Technology
NEW!
SETTING UP A WEB SERVER
A complete reference for anyone setting up a
web server. Covers all major platforms, software, links and web techniques. It details each
step required to choose, install and configure
the hardware and software elements, create
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The book covers the main web server
software applications, how they differ, and
which work best in each environment. 273
pages, in paperback, at $65.00.
NEW!
65
NEW!
By Tim Williams. First published 1991
(reprinted 1997).
THE CIRCUIT DESIGNER’S COMPANION
By PK McBride & Nat McBride.
Published 1999.
$
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If you want to create web pages for your
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experience of Web page design and now
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then “HTML4.0 Made Simple” is for you.
it uses a combination of tutorial approach,
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TCP/IP EXPLAINED.............................................$90.00
LOCAL AREA NETWORKS..................................$65.00
HTML 4.0 MADE SIMPLE...................................$29.95
SETTING UP A WEB SERVER.............................$65.00
THE CIRCUIT DESIGNER’S COMPANION...........$59.95
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES......................$59.95
UNDERSTANDING TELEPHONE ELECTRONICS....$55.00
AUDIO ELECTRONICS........................................$79.00
GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY...............$55.00
EMC FOR PRODUCT DESIGNERS.......................$95.00
THE ART OF LINEAR ELECTRONICS..................$80.00
INTERNET HOME PAGES MADE SIMPLE...........$24.95
DIGITAL ELECTRONICS .....................................$59.95
ESSENTIAL LINUX..............................................$85.00
ORDER TOTAL: $.............
82 Silicon Chip
Includes grounding, printed circuit design
and layout, the characteristics of practical
active and passive components, cables, linear
ICs, logic circuits and their interfaces, power
supplies, electromagnetic compatibility,
safety and thermal management. Aimed at
the practising designer who needs straightforward, easy-to-follow advice. 302 pages, in
paperback, at $59.95.
$
HTML 4.0 MADE SIMPLE
65
$
By John E. McNamara. 2nd edition 1996.
Intended for those who want to become more
familiar with local area networks (LANs) without
facing the challenge of a 400-page text. The
goals of the book are to give prospective
LAN users or purchasers familiarity with the
concepts involved and to provide a head start
for reading more detailed texts. 191 pages, in
paperback, at $65.00.
NEW!
By Simon Collin. Published 1997.
$
59
95
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES
NEW!
By Austin Hughes. Second edition
published 1993 (reprinted 1997).
This book is for non-specialist users of electric
motors and drives. The author explores most
of the widely-used modern types of motor and
drive, including conventional and brushless
DC, induction motors (mains and inverter-fed),
stepping motors, synchronous motors (mains
and converter-fed) and reluctance motors. 339
pages, in paperback, at $59.95.
59 95
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UNDERSTANDING TELEPHONE ELECTRONICS
By Stephen J. Bigelow.
Third edition published 1997 by
Butterworth-Heinemann.
55
(To subscribe, see page 53)
A very useful text for anyone wanting to
become familiar with the basics of telephone
technology. The 10 chapters explore telephone
fundamentals, speech signal processing,
telephone line interfacing, tone and pulse
generation, ringers, digital transmission techniques (modems & fax machines) and much
more. Ideal for students. 367 pages, in soft
cover at $55.00.
AUDIO ELECTRONICS
GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO
TECHNOLOGY
$
By John Linsley Hood. First published
1993. NEW SECOND EDITION 1998.
80
All you need to get started. Create and design
your own Internet home pages that include
both text and graphics, using this practical,
easy to follow, jargon free guide. This edition
has been enhanced and updated and now
covers HTML 4.0. 182 pages, in paperback,
at $24.95.
79
$
Eugene Trundle has written for many years in
Television magazine and his latest book is right
up to date on TV and video technology. The book
includes both theory and practical servicing
information and is ideal for both students and
technicians. 382 pages, in paperback, at $55.00.
55
EMC FOR PRODUCT
DESIGNERS
NEW!
P&P
Add $A5.00 per book –
Orders over $100 P&P free in Australia.
NZ: Add $A10 per book, $A15 elsewhere
24 95
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DIGITAL ELECTRONICS –
A PRACTICAL APPROACH
By Richard Monk. Published 1998.
$
59
95
With this book you can learn the principles and
practice of digital electronics without leaving your
desk, through the popular simulation applications,
EASY-PC Pro XM and Pulsar. Alternatively, if you
want to discover the applications through a
thoroughly practical exploration of digital
electronics, this is the book for you. A free floppy
disk is included, featuring limited function
versions of EASY-PC Professional XM and
Pulsar. 249 pages, in paperback, at $59.95.
ESSENTIAL LINUX
By Steve Heath. Published 1997.
By Tim Williams. First
published 1992. Second edition 1996.
Widely regarded as the standard text on EMC,
this book provides all the information necessary
to meet the requirements of the EMC Directive.
It includes chapters on standards, measurement
techniques and design principles, including
layout and grounding, digital and analog circuit
design, filtering and shielding and interference
sources. The four appendices give a design
checklist and include useful tables, data and
formulae. 299 pages, in soft cover at $95.00.
NEW!
By Lilian Hobbs. First published 1996.
Second edition 1999.
By Eugene Trundle. First published 1988.
Second edition 1996.
$
This practical handbook from one of the
world’s most prolific audio designers has
been updated and amended to make it the
leading practical source of information for
those interested in linear electronics and
its applications, particularly in the world of
audio design. 348 pages, in paperback, at
$80.00.
DESIGNING INTERNET HOME PAGES
MADE SIMPLE
By John Linsley Hood. First published
1995. Second edition 1999.
This book is for anyone involved in designing,
adapting and using analog and digital audio
equipment. It covers tape recording, tuners and
radio receivers, preamplifiers, voltage amplifiers,
audio power amplifiers, compact disc
technology and digital audio, test and
measurement, loudspeaker crossover systems,
power supplies and noise reduction systems.
375 pages in soft cover at $79.00.
THE ART OF LINEAR ELECTRONICS
NEW!
95
$
Provides all the information and software that
is necessary for a PC user to install and use the
freeware Linux operating system. It details,
setp-by-step, how to obtain and configure the
operating system and utilities. It also explains
all of the key commands. The text is generously
illustrated with screen shots and examples
that show how the commands work. Includes
a CD-ROM containing Linux version 1.3 and
including all the interim updates, basic utilities
and compilers with their associated documentation. 257 pages, in paperback, at $85.00.
85
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NEW!
POST TO: SILICON CHIP Publications, PO Box 139, Collaroy NSW, Australia 2097.
OR CALL (02) 9979 5644 & quote your credit card details; or FAX TO (02) 9979 6503
December 1999 83
Silicon Chip
Back Issues
September 1988: Hands-Free Speakerphone; Electronic Fish Bite
Detector; High Performance AC Millivoltmeter, Pt.2; Build The
Vader Voice.
April 1989: Auxiliary Brake Light Flasher; What You Need to Know
About Capacitors; 32-Band Graphic Equaliser, Pt.2; The Story Of
Amtrak Passenger Services.
May 1989: Build A Synthesised Tom-Tom; Biofeedback Monitor For
Your PC; Simple Stub Filter For Suppressing TV Interference; The
Burlington Northern Railroad.
July 1989: Exhaust Gas Monitor; Experimental Mains Hum Sniffers;
Compact Ultrasonic Car Alarm; The NSW 86 Class Electrics.
September 1989: 2-Chip Portable AM Stereo Radio (Uses MC13024
and TX7376P) Pt.1; High Or Low Fluid Level Detector; Studio Series
20-Band Stereo Equaliser, Pt.2.
October 1989: FM Radio Intercom For Motorbikes Pt.1; GaAsFet
Preamplifier For Amateur TV; 2-Chip Portable AM Stereo Radio, Pt.2;
A Look At Australian Monorails.
November 1989: Radfax Decoder For Your PC (Displays Fax, RTTY
& Morse); FM Radio Intercom For Motorbikes, Pt.2; 2-Chip Portable
AM Stereo Radio, Pt.3; Floppy Disc Drive Formats & Options; The
Pilbara Iron Ore Railways.
January 1990: High Quality Sine/Square Oscillator; Service Tips For
Your VCR; Phone Patch For Radio Amateurs; Active Antenna Kit;
Designing UHF Transmitter Stages.
February 1990: A 16-Channel Mixing Desk; Build A High Quality
Audio Oscillator, Pt.2; The Incredible Hot Canaries; Random Wire
Antenna Tuner For 6 Metres; Phone Patch For Radio Amateurs, Pt.2.
March 1990: Delay Unit For Automatic Antennas; Workout Timer For
Aerobics Classes; 16-Channel Mixing Desk, Pt.2; Using The UC3906
SLA Battery Charger IC; The Australian VFT Project.
April 1990: Dual Tracking ±50V Power Supply; Voice-Operated Switch
(VOX) With Delayed Audio; 16-Channel Mixing Desk, Pt.3; Active CW
Filter; Servicing Your Microwave Oven.
June 1990: Multi-Sector Home Burglar Alarm; Build A Low-Noise
Universal Stereo Preamplifier; Load Protector For Power Supplies;
Speed Alarm For Your Car.
July 1990: Digital Sine/Square Generator, Pt.1 (covers 0-500kHz);
Burglar Alarm Keypad & Combination Lock; Build A Simple Electronic Die; A Low-Cost Dual Power Supply; Inside A Coal Burning
Power Station.
August 1990: High Stability UHF Remote Transmitter; Universal
Safety Timer For Mains Appliances (9 Minutes); Horace The Electronic
Cricket; Digital Sine/Square Generator, Pt.2.
September 1990: A Low-Cost 3-Digit Counter Module; Build A Simple
Shortwave Converter For The 2-Metre Band; The Bose Lifestyle Music
System (Review); The Care & Feeding Of Nicad Battery Packs (Getting
The Most From Nicad Batteries).
October 1990: The Dangers of PCBs; Low-Cost Siren For Burglar
Alarms; Dimming Controls For The Discolight; Surfsound Simulator;
DC Offset For DMMs; NE602 Converter Circuits.
March 1992: TV Transmitter For VHF VCRs; Thermostatic Switch For
Car Radiator Fans; Coping With Damaged Computer Directories; Guide
Valve Substitution In Vintage Radios.
April 1992: IR Remote Control For Model Railroads; Differential Input
Buffer For CROs; Understanding Computer Memory; Aligning Vintage
Radio Receivers, Pt.1.
May 1992: Build A Telephone Intercom; Electronic Doorbell; Battery
Eliminator For Personal Players; Infrared Remote Control For Model
Railroads, Pt.2; Aligning Vintage Radio Receivers, Pt.2.
November 1990: How To Connect Two TV Sets To One VCR;
Build An Egg Timer; Low-Cost Model Train Controller; 1.5V To
9V DC Converter; Introduction To Digital Electronics; Build A
Simple 6-Metre Amateur Band Transmitter.
December 1990: The CD Green Pen Controversy; 100W DC-DC
Converter For Car Amplifiers; Wiper Pulser For Rear Windows;
4-Digit Combination Lock; 5W Power Amplifier For The 6-Metre
Amateur Transmitter; Index To Volume 3.
January 1991: Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries, Pt.1; Have Fun
With The Fruit Machine; Two-Tone Alarm Module; LCD Readout
For The Capacitance Meter; How Quartz Crystals Work; The
Dangers of Servicing Microwave Ovens.
February 1991: Synthesised Stereo AM Tuner, Pt.1; Three
Low-Cost Inverters For Fluorescent Lights; Low-Cost Sinewave
Oscillator; Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries, Pt.2; How To Design
Amplifier Output Stages.
March 1991: Remote Controller For Garage Doors, Pt.1;
Transistor Beta Tester Mk.2; A Synthesised AM Stereo Tuner,
Pt.2; Multi-Purpose I/O Board For PC-Compatibles; Universal
Wideband RF Preamplifier For Amateur Radio & TV.
April 1991: Steam Sound Simulator For Model Railroads;
Remote Controller For Garage Doors, Pt.2; Simple 12/24V
Light Chaser; Synthesised AM Stereo Tuner, Pt.3; A Practical
Approach To Amplifier Design, Pt.2.
May 1991: 13.5V 25A Power Supply For Transceivers; Stereo
Audio Expander; Fluorescent Light Simulator For Model Railways; How To Install Multiple TV Outlets, Pt.1.
June 1991: A Corner Reflector Antenna For UHF TV; Build A
4-Channel Lighting Desk, Pt.1; 13.5V 25A Power Supply For
Transceivers, Pt.2; Active Filter For CW Reception; Tuning In
To Satellite TV, Pt.1.
July 1991: Loudspeaker Protector For Stereo Amplifiers;
4-Channel Lighting Desk, Pt.2; How To Install Multiple TV
Outlets, Pt.2; Tuning In To Satellite TV, Pt.2.
September 1991: Digital Altimeter For Gliders & Ultralights;
Ultrasonic Switch For Mains Appliances; The Basics Of A/D
& D/A Conversion; Plotting The Course Of Thunderstorms.
October 1991: Build A Talking Voltmeter For Your PC, Pt.1;
SteamSound Simulator For Model Railways Mk.II; Magnetic
Field Strength Meter; Digital Altimeter For Gliders, Pt.2; Military
Applications Of R/C Aircraft.
November 1991: Build A Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.1;
A Junkbox 2-Valve Receiver; Flashing Alarm Light For Cars;
Digital Altimeter For Gliders, Pt.3; Build A Talking Voltmeter
For Your PC, Pt.2; Build a Turnstile Antenna For Weather
Satellite Reception.
June 1992: Multi-Station Headset Intercom, Pt.1; Video Switcher For
Camcorders & VCRs; IR Remote Control For Model Railroads, Pt.3;
15-Watt 12-240V Inverter; A Look At Hard Disc Drives.
August 1992: Automatic SLA Battery Charger; Miniature 1.5V To 9V DC
Converter; 1kW Dummy Load Box For Audio Amplifiers; Troubleshooting
Vintage Radio Receivers; The MIDI Interface Explained.
October 1992: 2kW 24VDC - 240VAC Sinewave Inverter; Multi-Sector
Home Burglar Alarm, Pt.2; Mini Amplifier For Personal Stereos; A
Regulated Lead-Acid Battery Charger.
January 1993: Flea-Power AM Radio Transmitter; High Intensity LED
Flasher For Bicycles; 2kW 24VDC To 240VAC Sinewave Inverter, Pt.4;
Speed Controller For Electric Models, Pt.3.
February 1993: Three Projects For Model Railroads; Low Fuel Indicator
For Cars; Audio Level/VU Meter (LED Readout); An Electronic Cockroach;
2kW 24VDC To 240VAC Sinewave Inverter, Pt.5.
March 1993: Solar Charger For 12V Batteries; Alarm-Triggered Security
Camera; Reaction Trainer; Audio Mixer for Camcorders; A 24-Hour
Sidereal Clock For Astronomers.
April 1993: Solar-Powered Electric Fence; Audio Power Meter;
Three-Function Home Weather Station; 12VDC To 70VDC Converter;
Digital Clock With Battery Back-Up.
May 1993: Nicad Cell Discharger; Build The Woofer Stopper; Alphanumeric LCD Demonstration Board; The Story of Aluminium.
June 1993: AM Radio Trainer, Pt.1; Remote Control For The Woofer Stopper; Digital Voltmeter For Cars; Build A Windows-Based Logic Analyser.
July 1993: Single Chip Message Recorder; Light Beam Relay
Extender; AM Radio Trainer, Pt.2; Quiz Game Adjudicator; Windows-Based Logic Analyser, Pt.2; Antenna Tuners – Why They Are
Useful.
August 1993: Low-Cost Colour Video Fader; 60-LED Brake Light Array;
Microprocessor-Based Sidereal Clock; Southern Cross Z80-Based
Computer; A Look At Satellites & Their Orbits.
September 1993: Automatic Nicad Battery Charger/Discharger; Stereo
Preamplifier With IR Remote Control, Pt.1; In-Circuit Transistor Tester;
+5V to ±15V DC Converter; Remote-Controlled Cockroach.
October 1993: Courtesy Light Switch-Off Timer For Cars; Wireless
Microphone For Musicians; Stereo Preamplifier With IR Remote Control,
Pt.2; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.1.
November 1993: High Efficiency Inverter For Fluorescent Tubes; Stereo
Preamplifier With IR Remote Control, Pt.3; Siren Sound Generator;
Engine Management, Pt.2; Experiments For Games Cards.
December 1993: Remote Controller For Garage Doors; Build A LED
Stroboscope; Build A 25W Audio Amplifier Module; A 1-Chip Melody
Generator; Engine Management, Pt.3; Index To Volume 6.
December 1991: TV Transmitter For VCRs With UHF Modulators;
Infrared Light Beam Relay; Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.2;
Index To Volume 4.
January 1994: 3A 40V Adjustable Power Supply; Switching Regulator
For Solar Panels; Printer Status Indicator; Mini Drill Speed Controller;
Stepper Motor Controller; Active Filter Design; Engine Management,
Pt.4.
January 1992: 4-Channel Guitar Mixer; Adjustable 0-45V 8A
Power Supply, Pt.1; Baby Room Monitor/FM Transmitter;
Experiments For Your Games Card.
February 1994: Build A 90-Second Message Recorder; 12-240VAC
200W Inverter; 0.5W Audio Amplifier; 3A 40V Adjustable Power Supply;
Engine Management, Pt.5; Airbags In Cars – A Look At How They Work.
ORDER FORM
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Note: all prices include post & packing
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Detach and mail to:
Silicon Chip Publications, PO Box 139,
Collaroy, NSW, Australia 2097.
Suburb/town _______________________________ Postcode ___________
Or call (02) 9979 5644 & quote your credit card
details or fax the details to (02) 9979 6503.
PLEASE PRINT
84 Silicon Chip
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March 1994: Intelligent IR Remote Controller; 50W (LM3876) Audio
Amplifier Module; Level Crossing Detector For Model Railways;
Voice Activated Switch For FM Microphones; Simple LED Chaser;
Engine Management, Pt.6.
March 1996: Programmable Electronic Ignition System; Zener
Diode Tester For DMMs; Automatic Level Control For PA Systems;
20ms Delay For Surround Sound Decoders; Multi-Channel Radio
Control Transmitter; Pt.2; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.1.
January 1998: Build Your Own 4-Channel Lightshow, Pt.1 (runs off
12VDC or 12VAC); Command Control System For Model Railways,
Pt.1; Pan Controller For CCD Cameras; Build A One Or Two-Lamp
Flasher; Understanding Electric Lighting, Pt.3.
April 1994: Sound & Lights For Model Railway Level Crossings; Discrete Dual Supply Voltage Regulator; Universal Stereo Preamplifier;
Digital Water Tank Gauge; Engine Management, Pt.7.
April 1996: Cheap Battery Refills For Mobile Telephones; 125W
Audio Power Amplifier Module; Knock Indicator For Leaded Petrol
Engines; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter; Pt.3; Cathode
Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.2.
February 1998: Hot Web Sites For Surplus Bits; Multi-Purpose Fast
Battery Charger, Pt.1; Telephone Exchange Simulator For Testing;
Command Control System For Model Railways, Pt.2; Demonstration
Board For Liquid Crystal Displays; Build Your Own 4-Channel Lightshow, Pt.2; Understanding Electric Lighting, Pt.4.
May 1994: Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries; Induction Balance Metal
Locator; Multi-Channel Infrared Remote Control; Dual Electronic
Dice; Simple Servo Driver Circuits; Engine Management, Pt.8.
June 1994: 200W/350W Mosfet Amplifier Module; A Coolant Level
Alarm For Your Car; 80-Metre AM/CW Transmitter For Amateurs;
Converting Phono Inputs To Line Inputs; PC-Based Nicad Battery
Monitor; Engine Management, Pt.9.
May 1996: Upgrading The CPU In Your PC; High Voltage Insulation
Tester; Knightrider Bi-Directional LED Chaser; Simple Duplex
Intercom Using Fibre Optic Cable; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.3.
June 1996: BassBox CAD Loudspeaker Software Reviewed; Stereo
Simulator (uses delay chip); Rope Light Chaser; Low Ohms Tester
For Your DMM; Automatic 10A Battery Charger.
July 1994: Build A 4-Bay Bow-Tie UHF Antenna; PreChamp
2-Transistor Preamplifier; Steam Train Whistle & Diesel Horn
Simulator; Portable 6V SLA Battery Charger; Electronic Engine
Management, Pt.10.
July 1996: Installing a Dual Boot Windows System On Your PC;
Build A VGA Digital Oscilloscope, Pt.1; Remote Control Extender
For VCRs; 2A SLA Battery Charger; 3-Band Parametric Equaliser;
Single Channel 8-bit Data Logger.
August 1994: High-Power Dimmer For Incandescent Lights;
Microprocessor-Controlled Morse Keyer; Dual Diversity Tuner For
FM Microphones, Pt.1; Nicad Zapper; Engine Management, Pt.11.
August 1996: Electronics on the Internet; Customising the
Windows Desktop; Introduction to IGBTs; Electronic Starter For
Fluorescent Lamps; VGA Oscilloscope, Pt.2; 350W Amplifier
Module; Masthead Amplifier For TV & FM; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.4.
September 1994: Automatic Discharger For Nicad Battery Packs;
MiniVox Voice Operated Relay; Image Intensified Night Viewer;
AM Radio For Weather Beacons; Dual Diversity Tuner For FM
Microphones, Pt.2; Engine Management, Pt.12.
October 1994: How Dolby Surround Sound Works; Dual Rail Variable
Power Supply; Build A Talking Headlight Reminder; Electronic Ballast
For Fluorescent Lights; Build A Temperature Controlled Soldering
Station; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.13.
November 1994: Dry Cell Battery Rejuvenator; Novel Alphanumeric
Clock; 80-Metre DSB Amateur Transmitter; Twin-Cell Nicad Discharger (See May 1993); How To Plot Patterns Direct to PC Boards.
December 1994: Dolby Pro-Logic Surround Sound Decoder,
Pt.1; Easy-To-Build Car Burglar Alarm; Three-Spot Low Distortion
Sinewave Oscillator; Clifford – A Pesky Electronic Cricket; Remote
Control System for Models, Pt.1; Index to Vol.7.
January 1995: Sun Tracker For Solar Panels; Battery Saver For
Torches; Dolby Pro-Logic Surround Sound Decoder, Pt.2; Dual
Channel UHF Remote Control; Stereo Microphone Preamplifier.
February 1995: 50-Watt/Channel Stereo Amplifier Module; Digital
Effects Unit For Musicians; 6-Channel Thermometer With LCD
Readout; Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers, Pt.1; Oil Change
Timer For Cars; Remote Control System For Models, Pt.2.
March 1995: 50 Watt Per Channel Stereo Amplifier, Pt.1; Subcarrier
Decoder For FM Receivers; Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers,
Pt.2; IR Illuminator For CCD Cameras; Remote Control System For
Models, Pt.3; Simple CW Filter.
April 1995: FM Radio Trainer, Pt.1; Photographic Timer For Dark
rooms; Balanced Microphone Preamp. & Line Filter; 50W/Channel
Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2; Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers,
Pt.3; 8-Channel Decoder For Radio Remote Control.
May 1995: What To Do When the Battery On Your PC’s Motherboard
Goes Flat; Build A Guitar Headphone Amplifier; FM Radio Trainer,
Pt.2; Transistor/Mosfet Tester For DMMs; A 16-Channel Decoder
For Radio Remote Control; Introduction to Satellite TV.
June 1995: Build A Satellite TV Receiver; Train Detector For Model
Railways; 1W Audio Amplifier Trainer; Low-Cost Video Security
System; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter For Models, Pt.1;
Build A $30 Digital Multimeter.
July 1995: Electric Fence Controller; How To Run Two Trains On
A Single Track (Incl. Lights & Sound); Setting Up A Satellite TV
Ground Station; Build A Reliable Door Minder.
August 1995: Fuel Injector Monitor For Cars; Gain Controlled
Microphone Preamp; Audio Lab PC-Controlled Test Instrument,
Pt.1; Mighty-Mite Powered Loudspeaker; How To Identify IDE Hard
Disc Drive Parameters.
September 1995: Railpower Mk.2 Walkaround Throttle For Model
Railways, Pt.1; Keypad Combination Lock; The Vader Voice; Jacob’s
Ladder Display; Audio Lab PC-Controlled Test Instrument, Pt.2.
October 1995: Geiger Counter; 3-Way Bass Reflex Loudspeaker
System; Railpower Mk.2 Walkaround Throttle For Model Railways,
Pt.2; Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries; Digital Speedometer & Fuel
Gauge For Cars, Pt.1.
November 1995: Mixture Display For Fuel Injected Cars; CB Trans
verter For The 80M Amateur Band, Pt.1; PIR Movement Detector;
Dolby Pro Logic Surround Sound Decoder Mk.2, Pt.1; Digital
Speedometer & Fuel Gauge For Cars, Pt.2.
December 1995: Engine Immobiliser; 5-Band Equaliser; CB Transverter For The 80M Amateur Band, Pt.2; Subwoofer Controller; Dolby
Pro Logic Surround Sound Decoder Mk.2, Pt.2; Knock Sensing In
Cars; Index To Volume 8.
January 1996: Surround Sound Mixer & Decoder, Pt.1; Magnetic
Card Reader; Build An Automatic Sprinkler Controller; IR Remote
Control For The Railpower Mk.2; Recharging Nicad Batteries For
Long Life.
February 1996: Three Remote Controls To Build; Woofer Stopper
Mk.2; 10-Minute Kill Switch For Smoke Detectors; Basic Logic
Trainer; Surround Sound Mixer & Decoder, Pt.2; Use your PC As
A Reaction Timer.
September 1996: VGA Oscilloscope, Pt.3; IR Stereo Headphone
Link, Pt.1; High Quality PA Loudspeaker; 3-Band HF Amateur
Radio Receiver; Feedback On Prog rammable Ignition (see March
1996); Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.5.
October 1996: Send Video Signals Over Twisted Pair Cable; Power
Control With A Light Dimmer; 600W DC-DC Converter For Car Hifi
Systems, Pt.1; IR Stereo Headphone Link, Pt.2; Build A Multi-Media
Sound System, Pt.1; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter, Pt.8.
November 1996: Adding A Parallel Port To Your Computer; 8-Channel Stereo Mixer, Pt.1; Low-Cost Fluorescent Light Inverter; How
To Repair Domestic Light Dimmers; Build A Multi-Media Sound
System, Pt.2; 600W DC-DC Converter For Car Hifi Systems, Pt.2.
December 1996: CD Recorders – The Next Add-On For Your PC;
Active Filter Cleans Up CW Reception; Fast Clock For Railway
Modellers; Laser Pistol & Electronic Target; Build A Sound Level
Meter; 8-Channel Stereo Mixer, Pt.2; Index To Volume 9.
January 1997: How To Network Your PC; Control Panel For Multiple
Smoke Alarms, Pt.1; Build A Pink Noise Source (For Sound Level
Meter Calibration); Computer Controlled Dual Power Supply, Pt.1;
Digi-Temp Monitors Eight Temperatures.
April 1998: Automatic Garage Door Opener, Pt.1; 40V 8A Adjustable
Power Supply, Pt.1; PC-Controlled 0-30kHz Sinewave Generator;
Build A Laser Light Show; Understanding Electric Lighting; Pt.6;
Jet Engines In Model Aircraft.
May 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.1; Build A 3-LED Logic Probe;
Automatic Garage Door Opener, Pt.2; Command Control For Model
Railways, Pt.4; 40V 8A Adjustable Power Supply, Pt.2.
June 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.2; Understanding Electric
Lighting, Pt.7; Universal High Energy Ignition System; The Roadies’
Friend Cable Tester; Universal Stepper Motor Controller; Command
Control For Model Railways, Pt.5.
July 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.3 (Installing A Modem
And Sorting Out Any Problems); Build A Heat Controller; 15-Watt
Class-A Audio Amplifier Module; Simple Charger For 6V & 12V
SLA Batteries; Automatic Semiconductor Analyser; Understanding
Electric Lighting, Pt.8.
August 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.4 (Adding Extra Memory
To Your PC); Build The Opus One Loudspeaker System; Simple I/O
Card With Automatic Data Logging; Build A Beat Triggered Strobe;
A 15-Watt Per Channel Class-A Stereo Amplifier.
September 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.5 (Software Problems
& DOS Games); A Blocked Air-Filter Alarm; A Waa-Waa Pedal For
Your Guitar; Build A Plasma Display Or Jacob’s Ladder; Gear Change
Indicator For Cars; Capacity Indicator For Rechargeable Batteries.
October 1998: CPU Upgrades & Overclocking; Lab Quality AC Millivoltmeter, Pt.1; PC-Controlled Stress-O-Meter; Versatile Electronic
Guitar Limiter; 12V Trickle Charger For Float Conditions; Adding An
External Battery Pack To Your Flashgun.
November 1998: Silicon Chip On The World Wide Web; The Christmas
Star (Microprocessor-Controlled Christmas Decoration); A Turbo
Timer For Cars; Build Your Own Poker Machine, Pt.1; FM Transmitter
For Musicians; Lab Quality AC Millivoltmeter, Pt.2; Beyond The Basic
Network (Setting Up A LAN Using TCP/IP); Understanding Electric
Lighting, Pt.9; Improving AM Radio Reception, Pt.1.
February 1997: Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.6; PC-Controlled
Moving Message Display; Computer Controlled Dual Power Supply,
Pt.2; Alert-A-Phone Loud Sounding Alarm; Control Panel For
Multiple Smoke Alarms, Pt.2.
December 1998: Protect Your Car With The Engine Immobiliser Mk.2;
Thermocouple Adaptor For DMMs; A Regulated 12V DC Plugpack;
Build Your Own Poker Machine, Pt.2; GM’s Advanced Technology
Vehicles; Improving AM Radio Reception, Pt.2; Mixer Module For
F3B Glider Operations.
March 1997: Driving A Computer By Remote Control; Plastic Power
PA Amplifier (175W); Signalling & Lighting For Model Railways;
Build A Jumbo LED Clock; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.7.
January 1999: The Y2K Bug & A Few Other Worries; High-Voltage
Megohm Tester; Getting Going With BASIC Stamp; LED Bargraph
Ammeter For Cars; Keypad Engine Immobiliser; Improving AM Radio
Reception, Pt.3; Electric Lighting, Pt.10
April 1997: Avoiding Win95 Hassles With Motherboard Upgrades;
Simple Timer With No ICs; Digital Voltmeter For Cars; Loudspeaker
Protector For Stereo Amplifiers; Model Train Controller; A Look At
Signal Tracing; Pt.1; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.8.
May 1997: Teletext Decoder For PCs; Build An NTSC-PAL
Converter; Neon Tube Modulator For Light Systems; Traffic
Lights For A Model Intersection; The Spacewriter – It Writes
Messages In Thin Air; A Look At Signal Tracing; Pt.2; Cathode
Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.9.
June 1997: Tuning Up Your Hard Disc Drive; PC-Controlled
Thermometer/Thermostat; Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.1;
Build An Audio/RF Signal Tracer; High-Current Speed Controller
For 12V/24V Motors; Manual Control Circuit For A Stepper
Motor; Fail-Safe Module For The Throttle Servo; Cathode Ray
Oscilloscopes, Pt.10.
July 1997: Infrared Remote Volume Control; A Flexible Interface
Card For PCs; Points Controller For Model Railways; Simple
Square/Triangle Waveform Generator; Colour TV Pattern Generator,
Pt.2; An In-Line Mixer For Radio Control Receivers; How Holden’s
Electronic Control Unit works, Pt.1.
August 1997: The Bass Barrel Subwoofer; 500 Watt Audio Power
Amplifier Module; A TENs Unit For Pain Relief; Addressable PC
Card For Stepper Motor Control; Remote Controlled Gates For
Your Home; How Holden’s Electronic Control Unit Works, Pt.2.
September 1997: Multi-Spark Capacitor Discharge Ignition; 500W
Audio Power Amplifier, Pt.2; A Video Security System For Your
Home; PC Card For Controlling Two Stepper Motors; HiFi On A
Budget; Win95, MSDOS.SYS & The Registry.
October 1997: Build A 5-Digit Tachometer; Add Central Locking
To Your Car; PC-Controlled 6-Channel Voltmeter; 500W Audio
Power Amplifier, Pt.3; Customising The Windows 95 Start Menu.
November 1997: Heavy Duty 10A 240VAC Motor Speed Controller;
Easy-To-Use Cable & Wiring Tester; Build A Musical Doorbell; Relocating Your CD-ROM Drive; Replacing Foam Speaker Surrounds;
Understanding Electric Lighting Pt.1.
December 1997: A Heart Transplant For An Aging Computer;
Build A Speed Alarm For Your Car; Two-Axis Robot With Gripper;
Loudness Control For Car Hifi Systems; Stepper Motor Driver
With Onboard Buffer; Power Supply For Stepper Motor Cards;
Understanding Electric Lighting Pt.2; Index To Volume 10.
February 1999: Installing A Computer Network (Network Types, Hubs,
Switches & Routers); Making Front Panels For Your Projects; Low
Distortion Audio Signal Generator, Pt.1; Command Control Decoder
For Model Railways; Build A Digital Capacitance Meter; Remote
Control Tester; Electric Lighting, Pt.11.
March 1999: Getting Started With Linux; Pt.1; Build A Digital
Anemometer; 3-Channel Current Monitor With Data Logging;
Simple DIY PIC Programmer; Easy-To-Build Audio Compressor;
Low Distortion Audio Signal Generator, Pt.2; Electric Lighting, Pt.12.
April 1999: Getting Started With Linux; Pt.2; High-Power Electric
Fence Controller; Bass Cube Subwoofer; Programmable Thermostat/
Thermometer; Build An Infrared Sentry; Rev Limiter For Cars; Electric
Lighting, Pt.13; Autopilots For Radio-Controlled Model Aircraft.
May 1999: The Line Dancer Robot; An X-Y Table With Stepper Motor
Control, Pt.1; Three Electric Fence Testers; Heart Of LEDs; Build A
Carbon Monoxide Alarm; Getting Started With Linux; Pt.3.
June 1999: FM Radio Tuner Card For PCs; X-Y Table With Stepper
Motor Control, Pt.2; Programmable Ignition Timing Module For
Cars, Pt.1; Hard Disk Drive Upgrades Without Reinstalling Software;
What Is A Groundplane Antenna?; Getting Started With Linux; Pt.4.
July 1999: Build The Dog Silencer; A 10µH to 19.99mH Inductance
Meter; Build An Audio-Video Transmitter; Programmable Ignition
Timing Module For Cars, Pt.2; XYZ Table With Stepper Motor Control,
Pt.3; The Heapod Robot.
August 1999: Remote Modem Controller; Daytime Running Lights
For Cars; Build A PC Monitor Checker; Switching Temperature
Controller; XYZ Table With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.4; Electric
Lighting, Pt.14; DOS & Windows Utilities For Reversing Protel
PC Board Files.
PLEASE NOTE: November 1987 to August 1988, October 1988 to
March 1989, June 1989, August 1989, December 1989, May 1990,
August 1991, February 1992, July 1992, September 1992, November
1992, December 1992 and March 1998 are now sold out. All other
issues are presently in stock. For readers wanting articles from
sold-out issues, we can supply photostat copies (or tear sheets) at
$7.00 per article (includes p&p). When supplying photostat articles
or back copies, we automatically supply any relevant notes & errata
at no extra charge. A complete index to all articles published to date is
available on floppy disc for $10 including p&p, or can be downloaded
free from our web site: www.siliconchip.com.au
September 1999 85
Just right for Summer!
Last month, we introduced Peltiereffect devices and described an
accurate temperature controller.
This month, given the fact that those
long, hot summer days are just
around the corner, we’re putting a
Peltier device to the most noble of uses
– keeping those tinnies temperate!
By Ross Tester
A PeltierPeltierA
Powered
Powered
Can Cooler
Cooler
Can
86 Silicon Chip
O K,
this project could
(and probably
would!) be used to
keep cold a lot more than a few cans.
But hey, we’re realists. We know
what most dinkum Aussie blokes use
their Eskys for. . . and for the benefit
of our readers across the Tasman, that
translates to what antipodean gentlemen use their chilly bins for . . .
Well, this is one chilly, chilly bin
bin!
It’s not exactly in the league of most
of the electronics projects you see in
the pages of SILICON CHIP. Basically,
we’re using just one electronic component – a Peltier device – and a bit
of hardware.
So even if you don’t know a resistor’s anode from its cathode (or maybe
if you do?), this project should be right
up your alley.
Of course, if you enjoy a drop of the
amber nectar, it’s even better.
Fortunately, the project must be
completed before you can cool a can,
so there’s little danger of making a
mistake due to over-sampling along
the way.
That’s just as well because if you get
the connections wrong, you can actually warm the can instead of cooling
it. No, we won’t get into any Aussie
vs Pom beer discussions right now,
thank you.
The Peltier device
Just in case you didn’t see last
month’s issue where we discussed the
Peltier device in detail, a word or two
of explanation.
It’s quite a simple device, basically a
number of P-N junctions sandwiched
between two metal plates.
Pass current through the junctions
one way and they absorb heat – one of
the two plates gets very much colder
than the other. Reverse the current and
the junctions emit heat.
This effect can be used to heat or
cool. If you thermally bond the plate
All you can see on the lid of the cooler is a large heatsink and 12V fan. The
Peltier device is sandwiched between this assembly and an internal heatsink.
getting cold to another surface, it will
“suck” heat from that surface.
And that’s exactly what we are doing
in this project: we thermally bond a
Peltier device to two heatsinks, one
of which is inside the cooler. When
power is applied the Peltier device
cools, dragging the temperature of the
heatsink down with it. The heatsink
draws heat from its surroundings – the
inside of the cooler. Therefore the
cooler (and anything in it) cools down.
(For a more detailed description of
the Peltier device, see page 55 of the
August 1999 SILICON CHIP).
Peltier devices come in a variety of
current ratings. The higher the current,
the greater their cooling (or heating)
capacity.
While this is true up to a point, there
are several limitations which stop
the device operating at its maximum.
Perhaps the most important of these
is the ambient temperature – if the air
on the “hot” side of the device is itself
Reproduced from
last month’s issue,
this is what the
Peltier device
looks like. This
particular one is
rated at 12V, 4A.
The side closest to
the camera is the
“cold” side when
12V DC is
connected + to
red, - to black.
hot then there will not be anywhere
near as much heat transfer as if the
air was cooler.
Linked with this is the amount of
heat which can be drawn away from
the Peltier device. In this project we
use a suitably-sized 12V fan which
has a reasonable flow but is certainly
not hurricane strength. More airflow
means more cooling; more cooling
means greater efficiency.
The “∆T”, or difference between the
hot and cold side of the device, is given
as 65°C. This is more-or-less the same
for all of the types of Peltier device
available in this size range. What this
means is that at its rated power, the
cold side of the device will be 65°C
cooler than the hot side (or, obviously
vice versa).
In an ideal world, this would be the
case – but this is not an ideal world. So
don’t expect to get a 65°C difference
in your cooler!
The main difference you would note
between the various devices is not so
much in their cooling or heating ability
but the time it takes to cool or heat.
The higher the current, the faster the
device will operate.
DC switching?
Last month we warned about
switching a Peltier device with DC due
to the thermal stress and shock which
may occur between the two plates due
to their difference in temperature. This
September 1999 87
can be enough to damage or even destroy a Peltier device with continual
usage.
For this reason, in temperature
control applications it is preferable to
switch the Peltier device on and off at a
rapid rate (>2kHz) and change the duty
cycle (on time to off time) to achieve
the appropriate power level. The net
result is the same but the stresses are
elminated.
But guess how we are switching the
Peltier device in our cooler?
With DC, that’s how!
The rationale is that in this application the Peltier device would not
be switched on and off repeatedly –
rather, it would be turned on and left
on, for possibly hours on end.
While there would be some thermal
shock at each switching, it’s nowhere
near as bad as switching on or off
every few minutes or so, as happens
in temperature control.
We want the Peltier to work flat out
– and that means staying on until the
last tinnie is removed!
The circuit
The circuit, shown in Fig. 1, could
hardly be simpler: the Peltier device
is in parallel with a 12V fan – and
that’s it. There is no on/off switch (it’s
intended to run from your car cigarette
lighter socket) and there’s no fuse (the
cigarette lighter socket already has
one). You just plug ’er in and away
+
–
Fig. 1: the circuit diagram could
hardly be simpler – a Peltier device
in parallel with a 12V fan, both
connected to 12V DC.
she goes!
Peltier devices are not all that common but Oatley Electronics have 4A,
6A and 8A models for between $25
and $30. They are all 40mm square
with a ∆T of 65°C.
Construction
The Peltier device is mounted
through the lid of the cooler and
requires a suitable-sized hole to be
cut in the lid. Fig.2 shows how this
is arranged.
The exact method of mounting
depends to a large degree on the type
of cooler you are fitting the device
to. We used a “Willow” brand – it
happens to be a 33-litre size but that’s
unimportant.
What is important is (a) enough
clearance under the handle to allow
the heatsink/fan assembly to fit and
(b) a suitable flat area in the middle
of the lid to allow the whole assembly to sit flat. Our cooler also had a
The first step is to cut a hole in the lid of the cooler the
same size as the aluminium block, then drill the mounting
holes through the top heatsink, cooler lid and bottom
heatsink, taking care not to foul any heatsink fins. The
photo at right shows the aluminium block in the hole – a
nice, tight fit.
88 Silicon Chip
very handy recess in the underside of
the lid which just fitted a large (140x
155mm) heatsink; very handy indeed!
The heatsinks we used were preloved units from the junk box – it
just so happened we had two on hand
which fitted quite nicely. If you have to
buy new heatsinks, the Jaycar Cat HH8592 (125 x 125mm) and the Altronics
H-0566 (150 x 121mm) would appear
to be amongst the most suitable.
As we said before, efficient thermal
transfer is absolutely vital if the system is to work and this depends on
intimate contact between the inside
heatsink, the Peltier device and the
outside heatsink.
Your cooler lid will almost certainly
have some thickness, probably made of
two sheets of plastic (polycarb-onate?)
with either air or another insulator (eg,
polystyrene foam) between them. In
our case it was about 10mm thick. So
you’re probably going to need a block
of aluminium, slightly thicker than the
lid of the cooler, to occupy the space.
Again, refer to Fig.2.
Exact size of this block of aluminium is not important as long is it is just
larger than the Peltier device (which
itself is is 40mm square) – say around
50mm square.
As you can see from the photo, it
sits inside four screws which hold the
asssembly together, sandwiching the
Peltier device between the aluminium
block and the outside heatsink.
Fig. 2: exploded view of all the components in the
powered cooler. Not shown are the electrical
connections: the Peltier device and fan simply wire
in parallel (the wires can be hidden between the fan
and outer heatsink and held in place with the cable
clamp).
To minimise stresses on the Peltier
device, a gasket/washer of thin rubber
(preferably heat-conductive) is fitted
between the Peltier device and the
outside heatsink. This has a cutout the
same size as the aluminium block and
Peltier device, the idea being to give
shock protection for the Peltier device
while still allowing intimate contact
between the elements. The photograph
shows this more clearly.
The small block of aluminium
shouldn’t be too difficult to obtain
from either an aluminium merchant
or perhaps a non-ferrous scrap yard;
the rubber gasket may be a little more
difficult.
If all else fails, virtually any closecell rubber or foam material will do
–believe it or not, we cut our gasket
from an old Neoprene mouse mat!
Use the aluminium block as a template for carefully cutting the hole in
the cooler lid. We used a fine-bladed
jig saw to cut ours after first drilling
a pilot hole. The block should be a
snug fit in the hole. When ready for
final assembly, this block can be held
in place with some silicone sealant
if you wish to maintain the cooler’s
semi-watertightness. Then again, who
ever tips their cooler upside down? If
you do use silicone sealant, it’s important NOT to get any on the face of the
aluminium block – this could act as a
heat insulator.
Place the Peltier device in the middle of the aluminium block and mark
the position of the two screw holes
along the centre line (size to suit the
screws) allowing, say, 5-10mm clearance. You may need to look at your
heatsinks before determining position
to ensure that the holes are not going
to line up with the fins of the heatsink.
If the size and layout of your heatsink means that a clash is inevitable,
you may need to do what we did and
use over-length bolts with nuts tight-
Upside-down view
of the outside
heatsink, with the
Peltier device wired
in and the rubber
gasket in situ.
The gasket
compresses to
ensure a good heat
transfer between the
aluminium block
(not shown) and the
top heatsink. Note
the liberal use of
heat transfer
compound!
September 1999 89
ening down onto washers sitting on
top of the heatsink fins.
The use of liberal amounts of silicone heat transfer compound is vital
– between the inside heatsink and aluminium block, the aluminium block
and Peltier device and between the
Peltier device and outside heatsink.
The name of the game is to transfer as
much heat as possible, as efficiently
as possible.
Mounting the fan
Again, this depends on the layout of
your heatsink and the mounting holes
for the fan. The most usual method
of mounting would be to drill some
holes through the heatsink and fit the
fan with nuts and bolts.
It is important that the fan sits directly on the heatsink fins and draws
its airflow through the fins. You can
check the airflow most easily by connecting the fan to a 12V battery or
supply. In some cases, reversing the
connections will reverse the fan direction and therefore airflow but some
fans will not operate with reversed
connections – in this case, simply turn
the fan over.
If there is a protective finger guard,
make sure it is on the outside of the
fan. 120mm fans are available from all
the usual suppliers.
Which way is up?
The convention is that when the
Peltier device is lying flat with its
leads pointing towards you and the
red lead on the right side, the upper
plate is the “cold” side. Needless to
say, this is the side which goes on the
inside of the cooler.
The red lead, as you would expect,
connects to +12V and the black to
earth. But even if you do manage an
up-stuff, no problem. Simply reverse
Parts List
1 suitable cooler, preferably with
plastic (polystyrene) lid.
1 Peltier-effect device
1 12V fan, 120mm square (or to
suit your heatsink)
2 large heatsinks, size to suit
cooler
1 aluminium block, approx 50 x
50 x 5mm (see text)
1 close-cell rubber (or similar)
gasket, approx 75mm square
1 3m length heavy-duty polarised
figure-8 cable
1 car cigarette lighter plug
1 cable clamp
4 assembly bolts, approx 1/8in or
3mm, length to suit heatsinks,
with nuts & washers
1 cable clamp bolt, 3mm x 10mm
with nut and washer
4 fan mounting bolts, 1/8in or
3mm, length to suit fan and
heatsinks
the connections and the heating/cooling plates are reversed.
The Peltier device and the fan simply
connect in parallel and are wired to a
cigarette-lighter plug. Airflow of the fan
is important: it needs to be wired so that
it is sucking air through the heatsink
and blowing it away. This gives the
most efficient and effective set-up.
We used a 3m length of heavy-duty
figure-8 cable which came already fitted with a cigarette lighter plug. These
are available from Oatley Electronics
for $1.00 each or 10 for $4.00 (what a
bargain!).
The cooler end of the cable was anchored to the outside heatsink with a
small cable clamp and the wire ends
soldered to the Peltier device and fan
leads, all insulated with small lengths
The view inside
the cooler lid
after assembly. As
you can see, this
heatsink has been
around the traps a
little but the additional holes don’t
cause any concern.
Note the two bolts
which mount on
top of the heatsink
fins with suitable
load-spreading
washers.
90 Silicon Chip
of heatshrink tubing. Be careful with
the wires connecting to the Peltier
device – they are only soldered themselves and can break off (as we found!).
Checking it out
It is simply a matter of plugging it
in and leaving it to run for, say, half an
hour. The lid doesn’t even need to be
fitted on the cooler. You should find
after this time the inside heatsink is
quite cool, even cold, to touch. If it is
warm to hot and the outside heatsink
is cold . . . congratulations – you’ve
made a warmer, not a cooler!
To cool, reverse the connections to
the Peltier device.
Incidentally, there is nothing wrong
with connecting the cooler “back
to front” if you want to keep food
warm. It won’t cook it but it certainly
will keep it warmer than the outside
temperature. If you want to make a
“universal” cooler/heater, simply fit a
double pole, double throw switch in
the power lead to reverse the connections to the Peltier and fan.
One warning: don’t leave it connected for too long. Even with the
lowest-rated (4A) Peltier, it will flatten
your car battery in fairly quick time,
especially if your battery isn’t quite
up to scratch. This device really is
intended for use when the car engine
is running!
And one last point: Peltier devices
should NOT be operated from 12V battery chargers unless there is a battery
connected as well. Most battery chargers have little or no smoothing; the
output is usually half-wave rectified
(50Hz) or full-wave rectified (100Hz)
pulsating DC.
That’s fine to charge a battery but
by itself will effectively switch a
Peltier on and off at either 50Hz or
100Hz – much too slow to avoid the
mechanical stresses we mentioned
before. Connecting a battery is like
connecting a giant capacitor across
the supply, smoothing it out to nearly
SC
constant DC.
Where to get the parts:
Peltier Device: Oatley Electronics
Heatsinks:
Jaycar, Altronics
Fan:
Jaycar, Altronics,
Dick Smith Electronics
Power Lead/Plug: Oatley Electronics
Cooler:
Big W, KMart, etc.
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Write to: Ask Silicon Chip, PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097.
Fan control
in a caravan
I am in the process of building the
“High Current Speed Controller for
12V & 24V DC Motors” from the June
1997 issue of SILICON CHIP. I wish to
operate a 12V DC fan in a caravan off
the van’s 12V battery with the idea of
being able to set the fan speed to suit
the conditions and thereby, in cooler
conditions, limit the discharge from
the battery.
I do not know the exact voltage
at which the 7812 will drop out of
regulation. The worrying aspect to
successful operation of this circuit is
that when the battery is fully charged
at say 13.8V, the 7812 is going to be
hard pressed to provide a regulated
output as there is little head room
and this is going to be worse as the
battery voltage starts to fall, as it will
in this application.
Can I get around this situation by
fitting a lower voltage regulator; eg, a
7809? I realise this may not give me
the drive to the Mosfets to be fully
conducting or is this only going to
give me more losses to the heatsink?
If this is acceptable, it would allow
Fast battery
charger squeals
I have just completed the Fast
Battery Charger from the February
& March 1998 issues (the one with
the Philips TEA1102 chip) from
a Dick Smith Electronics kit. It
seems to work OK except that
under load of about 1A or more
it squeals quite loudly. The noise
comes from the inductor.
I was wondering if the air gap
is a bit wide. The Dick Smith kit
supplied two small strips of fibreglass. I haven’t measured it but it
could be a little wide.
What should be the inductance?
Is it critical? I wound it according
to instructions (plus or minus half
the battery voltage to fall to a lower
value before the regulator dropped
out. A DP3T selector switch could
then be wired to give full speed, off
and controlled speed.
I would appreciate your comments
on the following: (1) How well will
the circuit work with a 7809 regulator? (2) How will the fan and more
importantly, the electronics, behave
when the battery voltage drops to a
value where the regulator ceases to
function? (3) How can I lower the
output voltage of the 7812 to say 10V
or would the drop out voltage still remain the same? (P. R., Kingaroy, Qld).
• The regulator was included to ensure that the gates of the FETs were
never taken more positive than 12V;
ie, when connected to a 28V supply.
If you are sure there will be no spikes,
etc, on the supply you can remove
the regulator but we suggest that you
leave it in.
When the regulator stops regulating
its output will drop but the circuit
should continue to function.
The criterion for satisfactory operation is “how hot are the heatsinks?”
While they remain cool (or not too
hot) don’t worry. When their tem-
a turn). Any suggestions? (S. S,
Lilyfield, NSW).
• The squealing noise is caused
by the windings in the inductor
moving on the bobbin as the current flow modulates them. You
can reduce this noise by winding
a layer of insulating tape around
them.
Alternatively, coat the sticky
side of the tape with some epoxy
resin and then wrap the windings
in the tape. You can expect the
noise to be considerably reduced
after the resin has set.
The actual number of turns is
not critical and anywhere between
10 and 20 turns is suitable. The gap
spacers supplied by Dick Smith
Electronics are correct.
perature starts rising, the gate drive
to the Mosfets is too low.
Your circuit will work fine but
the current taken by the controller
is negligible and we would leave it
connected permanently if the initial
tests prove OK.
CDI on a
Kawasaki 250
I am writing in reference to the
Multi-Spark CDI kit, which I have
purchased for use in my 1980 Kawa
saki Z250-B. It runs with points, with
one coil-point-capacitor-spark plug
per cylinder (this is a twin-cylinder
bike). I am now unsure if this kit is
suitable for my bike.
What I really need to know is how
can I hook the CDI to my engine when
each contact points runs a dedicated
(separate) cap/coil/plug system independent of the other cylinder? The
instructions assume a distributor of
sorts, one which runs a high-tension
switching setup, whereas a motorbike
engine has an individual isolated
switch per cylinder that runs prior
to the coil.
I cannot see from the circuit diagram how the two coils are to be
triggered separately from circuit
switching, to correspond to each
contact point. Can you give a definite YES or NO as to whether the
kit can facilitate dual-isolated CDI
switching? Does the circuit board and
component setup cater for this or do
modifications have to be made? (D.
S., Ashmore, Qld).
• The circuit is suitable for twin-cylinder engines with two coils as
described at the end of page 29 and
beginning of page 30 in the September
1997 issue. Both coils are connected
in parallel and using the two points
facility will fire both coils whenever
either of the points open.
This means that on a twin engine,
one cylinder will fire as required during the compression stroke just before
top dead centre for the piston. This
will produce a normal firing action
September 1999 91
FM transmitter
shows drift
I have built the FM Stereo Transmitter published in October 1988
and have found it to be unstable –
the frequency constantly fluctuates
by about 300kHz. I have tried it at
101.3MHz and it fluctuates from
101.1 to 101.3MHz, and at 90.2 it
goes from 90.1 to 90.3. It is about
5 metres from the radio. Any ideas
why? (J. S., via email).
• The frequency of oscillation
should be far more stable than
the 300kHz deviation you are
measuring. There are a number of
comments we can make. Firstly,
try the transmitter on an audio
signal and check whether it sends a
quality stereo signal to the receiver.
If it works correctly then perhaps
the way you are measuring the oscillator frequency is not accurate.
If the transmitter is modulating a
signal, then it can be very difficult
to measure the carrier since it is
while the other cylinder will be at
bottom dead centre. Firing a cylinder
with the piston at bottom dead centre
can do no harm to the engine and in
fact nothing will happen since there
will be no combustible gases under
pressure.
The circuit does not fire each spark
plug in an alternate fashion with one
coil for one cylinder providing a spark
as controlled via one set of points and
the next cylinder spark controlled by
the second set of points for the second
coil. Both work together.
The only way to have alternate
firing of each coil is to use two CDI
systems, each firing their own coil
and via their respective sets of points.
High power
guitar amplifier
I wish to build a guitar amplifier
and I am going to use your 125W
Plastic Power Amplifier (SILICON CHIP
April 1996) to drive a 150W speaker
cabinet using Celestion 12-inch guitar
loudspeakers. I am also going to use
the Three-Band Parametric Equaliser
(SILICON CHIP July 1996) for the EQ
section of the preamplifier. Other features I will incorporate are an effects
92 Silicon Chip
deviating by up to ±75kHz. This
can upset a frequency meter so that
it provides a fluctuating reading.
Also the resolution in the readings
you provide suggest that the meter
you are using only has 100kHz resolution for the measurement and so
you can expect that the last digit
will fluctuate by at least one digit.
Finally, the frequency may well
be unstable if the coil windings
are loose on the former or the slug
within the former is loose. The
slug can be made more secure
with a short length of dental floss
placed down the thread. Also a
dry solder joint on the oscillator
components or IC could produce
erratic oscillation.
You should also check the 47pF
capacitors for value and check
whether they are NPO types. NPO
capacitors either have this written
on the body or a black dot on the
top. Also check the cell voltage to
make sure it is not below about 1V
when powering the transmitter.
loop, DI output and valve modelling
circuitry for richness of harmonics. I
want the best possible performance
from the finished product and that
brings me to the point of this letter.
You state in the power amplifier
article that headroom is really a measure of the regulation of the power
supply. You then say that the suggested power supply is a “minimum
spec” design. Is there another power
supply that I could use, which has
better regulation and could improve
the performance of the amplifier?
Are there any other modifications
that I could make to the amplifier
module so that it will give better
performance and tone for musical
instrument use? Headroom is very
important for me. Also Jaycar specifies 8000µF capacitors for use in the
power supply instead of the 10,000µF
specified in your article. Which capacitance value should I use?
Which fuse rating should I use for
the transformer’s prim
ary winding
protection? Will the amplifier offer
better performance if I put the power
supply in a separate metal case inside
the amplifier rack case? Should the
560Ω 5W resistors wired across the
fuse clips be removed after setting
the quies
cent current? What will
happen if a signal exceeds the input
sensitivity of 1.37V RMS?
Are there any modifications I can
make to improve performance and
tone of the preamplifier circuitry;
eg, mounting the potentiometers
off-board? Any other advice on this
too? Finally, what fuse rating should
I use for a 160VA transformer? (O. N.,
Canterbury, Vic).
• We assume that your 12-inch
speakers will each be 8Ω and wired
in parallel so the total load impedance
will be 4Ω. In that case, the amplifier
will be able to deliver between 175W
and 230W, depending on the supply
regulation. If that is the case, we
would recommend a 300VA transformer with two 10,000µF 63VW
electrolytic capacitors on each supply
rail. You may also need to use a bigger
heatsink for the power transistors.
The mains fuse should be a 1.5A
slow blow type. The 560Ω resistors
should be removed from the fuseclips after the quiescent current has
been set.
Assuming a 4Ω load, the input sensitivity for maximum power of 175W
will be around 1.15V RMS. In fact
though, the maximum power refers to
the power available just at the onset
of clipping; ie, audible overload. This
power level will depend on the mains
voltage and the supply rail voltages
at any time. If the input signal is too
high, you will get audible distortion.
And if you seriously overdrive the
amplifier, you will blow the speakers.
For a guitar amplifier there is little
point in having the power supply in
a separate case because the only improvement would be in residual noise
and that is usually not a problem – the
noise level from the performance is so
loud that it usually drowns out any
noise from the amplifier.
We would not recommend mounting the preamplifier potentiometers
off-board; that will inevitably lead to
degraded performance.
VGA to PAL
converter wanted
Have you ever featured a VGA to
TV (PAL) converter project? If so
could you please tell me which issue?
(Stewart, via email).
• We have not produced a VGA to
PAL converter and it would not be
a simple project as there would be
Notes & Errata
Burglar alarm extensions, June
1999: on the circuit on page 83,
IC5a adjacent to IC4a should be labelled IC5c. IC6b’s output should
be pin 8. The “ZONE 3” label on
the line to pin 5 of IC8 should
actually be on the line to pin 7 of
IC8. In addition, the output of IC8
driving the Zone 1 relay should
be pin 12.
The second last paragraph of
page 84 should read “Pins 4, 10
and 12 of IC3 are connected to the
roller door switches”.
Audio-Video Transmitter, July
1999: on the overlay diagram on
page 38, the .001µF capacitor
shown connecting pin 3 of IC1
quite a lot of standards conversion
required in that the horizontal and
vertical sweep rates for PAL are quite
a lot slower than typical VGA. To do
the standards conversion, the circuit
would require a line or frame store.
If you need one, the best approach
would be to buy it. Two of our advertisers, Microgram Computers and
Namlea Data Systems, should be able
to help you.
Faulty sensor
on speed alarm
Back in your December 1997 issue
you published a project for a car speed
alarm. I am having trouble with this
kit. I cannot get the sender to register
any speed. It will show a speed when I
switch it on and it will show different
speeds when the buttons are pushed
but it will not show any difference
in speeds when the sensor is put into
operation. Also, is there any way that
I can make the alarm sound louder
to ground should be .01µF. The
circuit diagram is correct.
Daytime Lights for Cars, August
1999: on the overlay diagram on
page 33, the 470Ω and 1kΩ resistors shown below diode D3 should
be 4.7kΩ and 470Ω respectively.
The circuit is correct.
Line Dancer Robot, May 1999: in
the circuit diagram on page 18,
the 4.7kΩ collector resistor for Q1
should be labelled R5 instead of
R3, while the 1.5MΩ base resistor
for Q1 should be labelled R6 not
R5. On the PC overlay diagram on
page 19, the 470Ω resistor below
R14 (270Ω) can be replaced with a
link (it is in series with R5).
as I am a bit hard of hearing? (K. M.,
North Booval, Qld).
• We are not sure that you do have a
problem with your speed alarm. The
display section of the project is operating correctly since it does display
the alarm speed and can be changed
using the buttons. It will not and is
not supposed to show the difference
in speed between the set and actual
speeds as the car is driven.
However, if you are saying that
the alarm does not sound when the
preset speed is exceeded, then you
may have a problem with the sensor
circuit. Check that the magnets and
sender are located close together
when they pass each other. You may
find that the sensor operates correctly
if the magnet is flipped over so the
opposite pole is facing out. Check all
wiring from the Hall Effect board to
the main PC board.
The output level of the speed alarm
can be varied by adjusting VR2. This
alters the frequency driving the piezo
transducer and if adjusted carefully
you will find a position where the
sound is loudest. This is the resonance point for the transducer.
An alternative method of increasing the sound level is to use a powered
piezo transducer which will operate
at 5V. This can be driven between
the collector of transistor Q3 and 0V.
Note that for this connection you will
always have the siren sounding above
the alarm speed setting. A suitable
siren could be the Dick Smith Cat
L-7024 or Jaycar Cat AB-3462.
Transistor brands for
class-A amplifier
How important to the final performance of the Class-A amplifier July &
August 1998) is it to use the specified
Philips/Motorola BC547s, 557s, 327s
and 337s? I look forward to building
it. (S. H., via email).
• In a high performance amplifier
such as this, it really is important to
go for the “brand-name” transistors.
Other transistors will certainly work
but there is no guarantee that the
finished amplifier will have really
low distortion.
SLA charging
information wanted
In an issue of SILICON CHIP I read an
article on an SLA charger. That article
had quite a bit of information on SLA
batteries. I am chasing after information on charging techniques and more
importantly discharge curves for SLA
batteries. Can you pinpoint the issue
please? (A. H., via email).
• It seems likely that the article you
are referring to was one featuring the
UC3906 SLA battery charger IC, published in the March 1990 issue. We
can supply this issue for $7 including
SC
postage.
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such projects should
be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be carried out according to
the instructions in the articles. When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact
with mains AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages or other high
voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability for damages should anyone
be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of SILICON CHIP magazine. Devices or circuits described in
SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing
or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims any liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant
government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the Trade Practices
Act 1974 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are applicable.
September 1999 93
MARKET CENTRE
Cash in your surplus gear. Advertise it here in Silicon Chip.
FRWEEBE
YES!
Place your classified advertisement in
SILICON CHIP Market Centre and your
advert will also appear FREE in the
Classifieds-on-the-Web page of the
SILICON CHIP website,
www.siliconchip.com.au
And if you include an email address or
your website URL in you classified advert, the
links will be LIVE in your classified-on-the-web!
S!
D
E
I
F
I
S
C LAS
EXCLUSIVE TO SILICON CHIP!
CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING RATES
Advertising rates for this page: Classified ads: $11.00 (incl. GST) for up to 12 words
plus 55 cents for each additional word. Display ads: $27.50 (incl. GST) per column
centimetre (max. 10cm). Closing date: five weeks prior to month of sale.
To run your classified ad, print it clearly in the space below or on a separate
sheet of paper, fill out the form & send it with your cheque or credit card details
to: Silicon Chip Classifieds, PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097. Or fax the details
to (02) 9979 6503.
Taxation Invoice ABN 49 003 205 490
_____________ _____________ _____________ _____________ _____________
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Enclosed is my cheque/money order for $__________ or please debit my
❏ Bankcard ❏ Visa Card ❏ Master Card
Card No.
Signature ________________________ Card expiry date______/______
Name _____________________________________________________
Street _____________________________________________________
Suburb/town _________________________ Postcode______________
94 Silicon Chip
FOR SALE
TELEPHONE EXCHANGE SIMULATOR, SC Feb. 1998. Test equipment
without the cost of telephone lines. $190.
MAGNETIC CARD READER, SC Jan.
1996. Holds up to 8 cards. Use as a door
lock. $65. Melbourne 9806 0110.
ELECTRONIC/MECHANICAL DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION: we
offer a complete design service for
electronic and mechanical devices.
Most work is done in house and you
deal directly with the designers. No job
is too small and can be to prototype or
“turn key” stage, in one offs or for future
production. Simply send us an email at
vladimir<at>u030.aone.net.au with your
questions or requirements and we will
get back to you.
WEATHER STATIONS: Windspeed &
direction, inside temperature, outside
temperature & windchill. Records highs
& lows with time and date as they occur. $420.00 complete plus sales tax
if applicable. Optional rainfall and PC
interface. Used by Government Departments, farmers, pilots, and weather
enthusiasts. Other models with barometric pressure, humidity, dew point,
solar radiation, UV, leaf wetness, etc.
Just phone, fax or write for our FREE
catalogue and price list. Solar Flair/
Ecowatch ph: (03) 5968 4863 fax: (03)
5968 5810, PO Box 18, Emerald, Vic.,
3782. ACN 006 399 480.
RAIN BRAIN AND DIGI-TEMP KITS: 8
station sprinkler controllers, 60 channel
temp monitor uses DS1820s over 500
metres. Has PC Data logging. Mantis
Micro Products,
http://www.home.aone.net.au/mantismp
1/3 PRICE Heatshrink Tubing 2:1 Ratio 3 mm 55c, 6 75c, 10 90c, 16 $1.25
www.allthings.com.au
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS for all
magazine projects, then go to http://
www.cia.com.au/rcsradio RCS Radio
– Bexley (+61 2) 9587 3491.
FREE !! DUMMY DOME with CAMERA orders this month * AV 2.4
GHz TRANSMITTERS from $99 *
QUADS 4 Pix 1 screen from $256 HIRES better than SUPER-VHS Quality
* Modules 32 x 32 from $76 also
with Tiny Hi-Sens On-Board MICROPHONE * PIR MOVEMENT DETECTOR inbuilt concealed PINHOLE
Mono or DSP COLOUR Camera,
Microphone & Timer/Controller
for VCR - Lights - Etc from $139 *
BULLET 22 mm dia 480 Line 0.05 lux
SONY CCD or DSP COLOUR from
$132 * COLOUR DSP 32 x 32 Pinhole
Module with MICROPHONE from
$155 * MINI 36 x 36 from $85 - SONY
CCD $102 - COLOUR DSP $162 *
DOME from $88 - SONY CCD $105
- COLOUR DSP $164 * BALUNS
use phone or LAN cable for Video &
Power Supply from $11 * DIY PAKS:
4 Cameras, Switcher & Power Supply
from $499 - with 14" Monitor from
$601 with MUX for FULL SCREEN
/ RESOLUTION RECORDING from
$1209 * 4 COLOUR CAMERAS,
SWITCHER & POWER SUPPLY
from $807 - with COLOUR QUAD
4 Pix 1 Screen from $1211 * With
MUX $2033 * COLOUR QUADS from
$512 * COLOUR DUPLEX MUX from
$1329 * 14" MONITORS from $218
- with Inbuilt 4 Ch SWITCHER from
$256 * SEE-in-the-DARK CAMERA
INFRAR ED ILLUMINATOR Kit from
$160 * 50 LED DIY Infra Red Kits
only $19 * Plus full range of ANCILLARY EQUIPMENT * DISCOUNTS:
Based on ORDER VALUE, BUYING
HISTORY, for CASH / CHEQUE & NZ
BUYERS ! BEFORE YOU BUY Ask
about New Enquiry Offer & visit our
Web Site at www.allthings.com.au
Ph 08 9349 9413; Fax 08 9344 5905.
Win $500USD cash dontronics.com
C COMPILERS: everything you need
to develop C and ASM software for
68HC08, 6809, 68HC11, 68HC12,
68HC16, 8051/52, 8080/85, 8086,
8096 or AVR: $155.00 each. Macro
Cross Assemblers and Disassemblers
for above CPUs + 6800/01/03/05, 6502
and 68HC12 for $78. Debug monitors:
$78 for 6 CPUs. All compilers, XASMs
Need prototype PC boards?
We have the solutions – we print electronics!
Four-day turnaround, less if urgent; Artwork from your own
positive or file; Through hole plating; Prompt postal service; 29
years technical experience; Inexpensive; Superb quality.
Printed Electronics, 12A Aristoc Rd,
Glen Waverley, Vic 3150.
Phone: (03) 9545 3722; Fax: (03) 9545 3561
Call Mike Lynch and check us out!
We are the best for low cost, small runs.
Satellite TV Reception
International satellite
TV reception in your
home is now affordable. Send for your free
info pack containing
equipment catalog, satellite lists,
etc or call for appointment to view.
We can display all satellites from
76.5° to 180°.
Positions At Jaycar
We are often looking for enthusiastic staff
for positions in our retail stores and head
office at Rhodes in Sydney. A genuine
interest in electronics is a necessity. Phone
02 9743 5222 for current vacancies.
KITS-R-US
PO Box 314 Blackwood S.A.
Ph/fax 08 8270 3175
FMTX2A Universal Stereo Coder $49
FMTX2B 30mW Xtal Locked 100MHz Transmitter $49
FMTX1 1-3 Watt Free Running Transmitter $49
FMX1 200mW Full Broadcast Transmitter, built & tested $499
FM220 10-18 Watt FM BGY133 Philips Linear $499
FM1525 25 Watt Discrete Linear FM Band $499
FM2100 110 Watt Discrete Linear FM Band $699
FM3000 300 Watt Discrete Linear FM Band $1499
Philips 828E/A VHF Receiver Boards (6 metres) $9
AWA 721 VHF Receiver Boards (2 metres) $9
AWA 721 VHF transmitter boards 1 watt (2 metres) $19
Philips 323 UHF transmitter boards 500mW (70cm) $19
AEM 35 Watt Little Brick Audio Power Amp $15
Digi-125 200W RMS Audio Power Amp $39
CA Clipper Compiler, new in box $49
6dBd Gain Colinear FM Band Antenna $999
Roll Smart-1 FM Station Audio Processor $999
Free catalog on disk of discounted surplus components
Same day shipping, credit cards OK, circuits supplied.
SPECIAL STEAM
BOAT KITS $14
1A LASER DIODE DRIVER, 3W head
laser power monitor, IR laser diode
with housing, greatly reduced price,
e-mail lmatthee<at>perthpcug.org.au
for details and pictures.
AV-COMM P/L, 198 Condamine St,
Balgowlah, NSW 2093.
Tel: 02 9949 7417 or 9948 2667.
Fax: 9949 7095; www.avcomm.com.au
Silvertone’s RC Receiver
Still the best little performer available!
Ph: (03) 98306288 Fax: (03) 98306481
and monitors: $480. 8051/52 Simulator
(fast, now incl. 80C320): $78. Try the
C-FLEA Virtual Machine for small CPUs,
build a “C-Stamp”. Demo desk: FREE.
All prices + $5 p&p.
Atmel Flash CPU Programmer:
Handles the 89Cx051, the 89C5x and
89Sxx series, and the new AVRs in
both DIP and PLCC44. Also does most
8-pin EEPROMs. Includes socket for
serial ISP cable. $199, $37 tax, $10
p&p. SOIC adaptors: 20-pin $90, 14-pin
$85, 8-pin $80. Credit cards accepted.
GRANTRONICS PTY LTD, PO Box 275,
Wentworthville 2145. Ph (02) 9896 7150;
Fax (02) 9631 1236; or Internet:
http://www.grantronics.com.au
Still only $129.50 AM or $149.50 FM.
May be used with most ppm transmitters.
This and many other radio control
products available from:
Silvertone Electronics, PO Box 580,
Riverwood 2210.
Phone/Fax (02) 9533 3517.
www.silvertone.com.au
PCBS MADE, ONE OR MANY. Low
prices, hobbyists welcome. Sesame
Electronics (02) 9554 9760
sesame<at>internetezy.com.au; http://
members.tripod.com/~sesame_elec
A NEW address for Acetronics: http://
www.acetronics.com.au On-line PCB
quotes, free software, DIY PCB supplies
plus many other items & services. 02
9743 9235.
September 1999 95
Silicon Chip Binders
Keep your copies safe, secure and
always available with SILICON CHIP
binders: they’re cheap insurance!
Altronics................................. 60-62
REAL
VALUE
AT
Aust. Audio Consultants...............81
PLUS P
&P
Clarke & Severne........................81
$12.95
Heavy board covers with
2-tone green vinyl covering
Advertising Index
Av-Comm Pty Ltd.........................95
Coffs Harbour Electronics............81
Computronics Corporation..........81
Each binder holds up to 14
issues so that you can include
catalogs
Dick Smith Electronics........... 14-17
EMC Technologies.......................81
SILICON CHIP logo printed
in gold-coloured lettering on
spine & cover
Emona Instruments...................IFC
Evatco..........................................87
Price: $12.95 plus $5 p&p each
(available Aust. only)
GNP Acoustics............................79
Order by phoning (02) 9979 5644 & quoting your credit card number;
or fax the details to (02) 9979 6503; or mail your order with cheque or
credit card details to Silicon Chip Publications, PO Box 139, Collaroy,
NSW 2097.
Harbuch Electronics....................34
Instant PCBs................................95
Jaycar .............................. 45-52,95
Kits-R-Us.....................................95
Microgram Computers..............3,81
SATELLITE TV RXs Digital MPEG-2
FTA EPG DVB CAM for Encryption
from $399 www.allthings.com.au
SOLAR PANELS: buy by mail and save!
75 watt from $590.00, unbreakable s/
steel 64 watt $555.00. Largest manufactured: 120 watt $995.00, flexible 32
watt $475.00. All other sizes available,
top brands, lowest prices.
INVERTERS: budget inverters from
$110.00 (12V 140W). High quality pure
sine wave inverters from $390.00. Call
with your requirements.
WIND GENERATORS: wide variety
available, call with requirements.
TASMAN ENERGY Free call 1800
226626
RTN Australia Parallax distributor:
Basic Stamps BS1, BS2, BS2-SX all ex
stock. Chipsets also available for high
volume applications. SX development
tools and chips also available. New super
BS1/2 development board Oz made now
available. Custom I/O extender chips
for the Basic Stamps. Serial Led driver
kits, a/d kits, temperature kits, etc.
FerretTronics servo and stepper motor
chips. TiePie HandyScope HS2, Dos
and Win software included. Ph/Fax (03)
9338 3306.
Email: nollet<at>mail.enternet.com.au
http://people.enternet.com.au/~nollet
BITZ 25W Transceivers Sat TV RXs
VCRs ABS CROs Yagis Isolation TXs
CCTV Equip Gas Detectors 16 mm
Projectors Components
www.allthings.com.au
Namlea Data Systems.............OBC
Oatley Electronics........................29
Printed Electronics...................... 95
Procon Technology......................95
Questronix...................................81
RobotOz......................................95
Rosemary Brooks........................80
R.T.N............................................81
Silicon Chip Binders/Wallcht........57
Silicon Chip Bookshop........... 82-83
Silicon Chip Position Vacant........41
KIT ASSEMBLY
Silicon Chip Subscriptions...........44
ANY KITS assembled/repaired: professional, speedy service. Phone Neville
Walker (07) 3857 2752.
Silvertone Electronics..................95
KIT ASSEMBLY: kits assembled/repaired in Sydney. Phone Tess on (02)
9728 6443.
Truscott’s Electronic World...........25
HELP SAVE THE NIGHT SKY!
We are losing our heritage of starry night skies. Poor, inefficient outdoor lighting is
causing glare and “light pollution”. This wastes energy and increases greenhouse
gas emissions.
You can help by joining SYDNEY OUTDOOR LIGHTING IMPROVEMENT SOCIETY
(SOLIS). SOLIS aims to educate and inform about quality outdoor lighting and its
benefits. We also lobby councils, government and other bodies to promote good
lighting practice. SOLIS meetings are held third Monday night of each month at
Sydney Observatory.
Individual membership is $20 pa. Donations are also welcome. Cheques payable to “SOLIS c/- NSAS”,
PO Box 214, West Ryde 2114. Email: tpeters<at>pip.elm.mq.edu.au
96 Silicon Chip
MicroZed Computers...................81
Smart Fastchargers.....................25
Solar Flair/Ecowatch....................94
Zoom EFI Special......................IBC
_____________________________
PC Boards
Printed circuit boards for SILICON
CHIP projects are made by:
• RCS Radio Pty Ltd, 651 Forest
Rd, Bexley, NSW 2207. Phone (02)
9587 3491.
• Marday Services, PO Box 19-189,
Avondale, Auckland, NZ. Phone (09)
828 5730.
MORE FROM YOUR
EFI CAR!
Own an EFI car?
Want to get the
best from it?
Youll find all you
need to know in
this publication
EFI TECH SPECIAL
Here it is: a valuable collection of the best EFI features from ZOOM magazine,
with all the tricks of the trade and tricks the trade doesnt know!
Plus loads of do-it-yourself information to save you real $$$$ as well . . .
HERE ARE JUST SOME OF THE CONTENTS . . .
n Making Your EFI Car Go Harder n Building A Mixture Meter n D-I-Y Head Jobs
n Fault Finding EFI Systems n $70 Boost Control For 23% More Grunt
n All About Engine Management n Modifying Engine Management Systems
n Water/Air Intercooling n How To Use A Multimeter n Wiring An Engine Transplant
n And Much More including some Awesome Engines!
AVAILABLE DIRECT FROM SILICON CHIP PUBLICATIONS
PO BOX 139, COLLAROY NSW 2097 - $8.95 Inc GST & P&P
To order your copy, call (02) 9979 5644 9-5 Mon-Fri with your credit card details!
FROM THE PUBLISHERS OF SILICON CHIP
|