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August 2000 1
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.circuitmaker.com
Contents
FEATURES
4 Drive By Wire: Electronic Throttle Control; Pt.1
The direct link between the driver’s foot and the throttle position is about to
be broken – by Julian Edgar
Vol.13, No.8; August 2000
CircuitMaker
2000 Virtual
Electronics
Lab – Page
26.
26 Review: CircuitMaker 2000 Virtual Electronics Lab
A versatile circuit design and simulation package – by Peter Smith
70 Structured Cabling & the Krone MiniLAN
Changing your network cabling doesn’t have to be a hassle. With a Krone
MiniLAN system, it’s as easy as 1-2-3! – by Ross Tester
PROJECTS TO BUILD
16 Build A Theremin For Really Eerie Sounds
You wave your hands around mysteriously to play it – by John Clarke
32 Come In Spinner
No, it’s not our version of Two-Up! Instead, you spin it and it writes messages
in thin air – by Atilla Aknar & Ross Tester
54 Loudspeaker Protector And Fan Controller
Install it in the Ultra-LD Amplifier and protect your speakers against output
stage faults. The fan control is a bonus – by Peter Smith & Leo Simpson
Come In Spinner – Page 32.
62 Proximity Switch For 240VAC Lamps
Just wave your hand near it to turn the light on or off – by Leo Simpson
SPECIAL COLUMNS
38 Serviceman’s Log
It doesn’t pay to be too smug – by the TV Serviceman
84 Vintage Radio
The Astor RQ Lady’s Handbag Radio – by Rodney Champness
Loudspeaker Protector And Fan
Controller – Page 54.
DEPARTMENTS
2
25
53
78
80
Publisher’s Letter
Mailbag
Subscriptions Form
Circuit Notebook
Product Showcase
89
91
83
94
96
Ask Silicon Chip
Notes & Errata
Electronics Showcase
Market Centre
Advertising Index
Proximity Switch for 240VAC
Lamps – Page 62
August 2000 1
PUBLISHER’S LETTER
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Production Manager
Greg Swain, B.Sc.(Hons.)
Technical Staff
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2 Silicon Chip
Don’t wait for digital
broadcasts if buying a
new TV set
One of the questions we are often asked at
SILICON CHIP concerns digital broadcasting
and whether it is worth waiting to buy a digital TV receiver. Often the person concerned
has a relatively old TV set, maybe 10 years
old or more, and is looking for an excuse to
upgrade to a new set. But with all the puff
about digital TV at the moment there are
doubts. Supposedly, digital TV will be so
much better than present-day broadcasts
and people do not want to be caught with a
newish but obsolete set.
The short answer to these questions is to go out and buy a new set, if that’s
what you want. If you do, you will get the immediate benefit of a new set - a
much brighter and sharper picture and at a price that is not likely to reduce
in the short term now that GST is in force.
Perhaps you still have doubts. If so, perhaps I can dispel them. First, if
you do not intend buying a large screen set, say 80cm or larger, there is little
point in worrying about whether you will get a better picture when digital
broadcasting comes in. With the smaller screen sizes, it is just not possible
for the average viewer to discern any improvement in picture quality, even
if you had high definition broadcasts. Perhaps I should qualify that. If you
are comparing the picture quality with good ghost free reception and studio
broadcasts or DVD playback on a 68cm or smaller set, there will be very
little, if any, improvement when digital broadcasting comes in.
If you can afford it, you should seriously consider buying an 80cm or larger
set because that’s where the real developments are happening and where
prices are dropping the most. For example, it is now possible to purchase
an 80cm Teac set for as little as $1499. Not comfortable with a low-cost
brand? Then what about a Philips or Panasonic 80cm set for under $2000?
Not only can you get features such as picture-in-picture and NTSC playback, you can also expect “component video” inputs which are desirable
for the very best picture quality from DVD players.
Alternatively, you might decide to go for one of the larger rear projection
sets and here you really do get a large screen for quite reasonable amounts
of money. Well, OK, for many people $3500 or more is not a reasonable
amount of money but it is a good deal less than you would have paid a few
years ago. And some of the new rear projection sets are now coming out
with ghost-free line-doubling (100Hz horizontal scan rate for flicker-free
pictures) and pixel doubling as well.
When digital broadcasting does come in, you can expect the new digital
TV receivers to be a great deal more expensive and most people will opt for
a set-top converter. But even then, if we follow overseas experience, such
set-top converters will be available as part of the deal from Pay-TV companies
and they look like having more features such as multi-cameras and so on.
So if you are thinking of buying a new set, there is not much reason to
hold back. Go out and buy it. Remember, the price of a new TV set will be
the cheapest entertainment you will ever buy.
Leo Simpson
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August 2000 3
Drive
By Wire
The Bosch ME-Motronic System; Pt.1
The Bosch ME-Motronic system is the first
“drive-by-wire” engine management system
for cars. It breaks the direct link between the
driver’s foot and the throttle position and it’s
coming soon to your new car.
By JULIAN EDGAR
The new Bosch ME-Motronic
system takes a radically differ
ent
approach to engine management systems. There is no accelerator cable.
While it initially appears to have all
the usual ingredients of a modern
electronic management system – fuel
injectors, input sensors, an electronic
control unit (ECU) and so on – the use
of accelerator position sensing and an
electronic throttle actuator makes this
system very different.
In effect, the direct link between the
driver’s foot and the throttle is broken.
What the driver demands may not be
what the driver gets. This situation
has existed on some large trucks for
some time now. However, it’s only
now that the engine management
4 Silicon Chip
system has be able to adjust the relationship between the car’s accelerator
pedal and throttle opening. Not only
can this system control fuel injection
and ignition but also the cylinder
charge.
Making the advent of the ME-Motronic even more of a sea change is
the underlying operating logic. Unlike
other engine management systems,
ME-Motronic determines how much
engine torque is required in any given
situation and then opens the throttle
sufficiently to allow the engine to
develop that much torque.
The accelerator pedal travel becomes just the driver’s “torque
request”, to be weighed up against
other torque requests generated by the
traction control system, speed limiter,
engine braking torque control and
others. Furthermore, at all times the
engine management ECU models the
engine’s instantaneous torque development, adjusting the throttle opening
according to the relationship between
the requested and developed torque.
A quick example makes this easier
to understand. In some situations, the
driver may have only depressed the
accelerator pedal halfway – but under
the bonnet, the throttle butterfly valve
can have snapped wide open! But why
would this be an advantage?
In turbo-charged cars, the maximum
available torque can vary substantially
over quite a narrow range of engine
speed. For example, the current model
Audi S4 twin turbo V6 develops a
maximum torque of 300Nm at 1400
RPM and 400Nm at 1850 RPM. So,
across just 450 RPM of engine speed,
the peak torque varies by 33%.
This characteristic is caused by the
two turbos rapidly increasing in speed
– ie, “coming on boost”.
Fig.1 shows the power and torque
curves for this particular engine; a
similarly shaped torque curve is as-
Fig.1: the torque curve of this twin
turbo Audi 2.67 litre V6 shows the
very rapid rise that occurs as the
turbos start to boost at low engine
speeds. Electronic throttle control by
the Bosch ME-Motronic 7.1 engine
management system allows good
driveability, even with this massive
torque change. [Audi]
sociated to a greater or lesser degree
with all turbo-charged engines.
A driver of a turbo car equipped
with traditional engine management
tends to automatically compensate
for this steeply rising torque curve.
When wishing to accelerate moderately hard, he or she will initially
floor the throttle and then back off
as turbo boost and torque rises. But
with the latest Audi S4 V6, equipped
Where there are major torque changes over a small range in engine speeds, an
engine management system that varies the relationship between accelerator
position and throttle opening can yield major improvements in driveability. This
Audi twin turbo V6 – fitted to the current S4 model – uses Bosch ME-Motronic
management. The 2000 model Porsche on the facing page is also fitted with the
Bosch ME-Motronic system.
with Bosch ME 7.1, the driver need
not do this.
At low speeds when the engine response is relatively poor – the turbos
yet to generate appreciable boost – the
ME-Motronic system opens the throttle far further than the driver pushes
the pedal and then as revs rise, it au-
tomatically adjusts the throttle angle
to retain a smooth linear response. In
this way, driveability, emissions and
fuel consumption are all improved.
Inputs and outputs
As indicated, at first glance the
ME-Motronic system looks very
Fig.2: The ME-Motronic system has inputs and outputs very similar to other engine management systems but it
has two unique items – the accelerator pedal travel input sensor and the ETC (Electronic Throttle Control)
actuator. [Bosch]
August 2000 5
RESISTANCE IN OHMS
RESISTANCE IN OHMS
THROTTLE VALVE OPENING IN %
ACCELERATOR TRAVEL
Fig.3: two potentiometers are used in the accelerator
position sensor (to give redundancy) and they are slightly
offset to give characteristic shown here. [Audi]
similar to other current management
systems. Fig.2 shows the inputs and
outputs of a typical ME-Motronic
system. In addition to two-way diagnostics and Controller Area Network
buses (the CAN buses communicate
with other systems such as the automatic transmission ECU), the inputs
comprise:
• Vehicle speed;
• Transmission gear;
• Camshaft position;
• Crankshaft speed and position;
• Dual oxygen sensors (located eith
er side of the catalytic converter – ‘V’
engines have four sensors);
• Knock sensor;
• Coolant temperature;
• Intake air temperature sensor;
• Battery voltage;
• Intake air mass (plus frequently
manifold pressure);
• Throttle position.
None of these inputs is unique
to this system but it also includes a
sensor for accelerator pedal position.
Fig.4: the feedback mechanism of the throttle – which
shows the actual throttle valve position – also uses two
potentiometers. However, these have output character
istics that work in opposite directions. [Audi]
With one exception, the outputs
are also very similar to other recent
management systems:
• Spark plugs;
• Injectors;
• Instrument panel tachometer;
• Fuel pump relay;
• Oxygen sensor heaters;
• Intake manifold runner control
(ie control of the position of valves
within dual tuned length manifolds,
or the length of infinitely variable
intake runners);
• Fuel system evaporative control,
secondary air injection and exhaust
gas recirculation (all emissions control approaches).
The added component is the Electronic throttle control actuator.
Let’s have a look at these two extra
components in more detail.
Accelerator position sensor
Two approaches are currently used
in the design of this sensor but they
are electrically identical. Movement
Fig.5: the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor uses a dual potentiometer
connected to the accelerator pedal by a rod and crank. [Audi]
6 Silicon Chip
of the accelerator pedal rotates two
potentiometers; as already noted,
there is no Bowden cable to connect
accelerator pedal movement to the
throttle butterfly. Two potentiometers
are fitted to the sensor to allow redundancy – if one fails, the other still lets
the system operate.
As shown in Fig.3, the outputs of
the potentiometers are identical but
for an offset. Cars equipped with
automatic transmissions do not have
an additional kickdown switch in
the assembly. Instead, a ‘mechanical
pressure point’ is used to give the feel
of a kickdown switch.
Fig.5 shows the pedal assembly and
sensor used in the Audi S4.
If the accelerator position sensor
fails, the lack of any mechanical connection between the accelerator and
the throttle means that ‘limp home’
techniques are called for. The Audi
S4 has two:
Emergency running program 1: this
occurs when a single accelerator position potentiometer fails. In this case,
the throttle position is limited to a defined value. In the case of implausible
signals from the two potentiometers,
the lower value of the two is used.
At the same time, the brake light
signal is used to switch the engine
back to idling and the fault lamp is
illuminated.
Emergency running program 2: this
occurs when both accelerator position
potentiometers fail. This more drastic
condition causes the engine to run
only at idle speed and the fault lamp
is illuminated.
Interestingly, in the Audi, if the
accelerator and brake pedals are depressed together, the throttle valve
is automatically closed to a defined
small opening. However, if the brake
is pressed and depressing of the ac-
celerator then follows this, the torque
request is enabled. I assume that the
latter provision is solely for those who
like to left-foot brake, with applications of power used to balance the car!
Throttle control actuator
The electronic throttle valve consists of a DC motor, reduction gear
drive and dual feedback angle sensors.
Again to provide redundancy, two potentiometers are used for angle feed
back. However, unlike the accelerator
position sensor, these sensors have
opposite resistance characteristics to
one another, as shown in Fig.4.
While continuous sensing of the
throttle butterfly valve position does
occur, the ECU only recognises four
key functional positions of the throttle:
• Lower mechanical limit stop – the
valve is totally shut.
• Lower electrical limit stop – the
lower limit used in normal operation.
This position does not totally close the
valve, thus preventing contact wear of
the housing and throttle blade.
• Emergency running position – the
position of the valve when it is not
energised. This allows sufficient airflow for an idle speed a little higher
than standard.
• Upper electrical limit stop – the
valve is fully open.
The control system has a learning
function, whereby the state of the
mechanicals within the electronic
throttle (eg, spring tensions) is determined by the evaluation of the throttle
valve’s reaction speed. Fig.6 shows
an internal view of the Electronic
Throttle Control Actuator.
As with the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor, limp-home techniques
are available should the Electronic
Throttle Control Actuator develop
problems. These include:
Emergency running program 1: this
occurs when an angle sensor within
the throttle body fails or an implausible signal is received. The program
still requires a throttle angle signal
and a plausible mass airflow measurement. Torque increasing requests
from other systems are ignored (eg,
from the Engine Braking Control) and
the fault lamp is illuminated.
Emergency running program 2: this
occurs if the throttle valve drive fails
or malfunctions; it requires that both
throttle valve potentiometers recog
nise the Emergency Running Position
Fig.6: The throttle valve is moved by means of a reversible DC motor acting
through a reduction drive. In the event of failure, the valve defaults to a nearclosed position. [Audi]
of the throttle blade.
The throttle valve drive is switched
off so that the valve defaults to the
small emergency running opening. As
far as possible, ignition angle control
and turbo boost control(!) are used to
execute the driver torque demands.
Finally, the fault lamp is illuminated
as before.
Emergency running program 3: this
occurs if the throttle valve position
is unknown and/or if the throttle
valve is not definitely known to be
in the Emergency Running Position.
The throttle valve drive is switched
off so that the valve (hopefully!) de-
faults to the small emergency running
opening. The engine speed is limited
to approximately 1200 RPM by fuel
injection control and the fault lamp
is illuminated.
A schematic diagram showing the
operation of the electronic throttle
system is shown in Fig.7.
As you can see, Bosch engineers
have been very careful to ensure that
a failure of the electronic throttle
system will not cause the engine to
suddenly have full power or to stall.
Next month, we’ll take a look at the
operating logic of the ME-Motronic
SC
system.
ENGINE CONTROL UNIT
INPUT SIGNALS
THROTTLE
VALVE DRIVE
OUTPUT SIGNALS
ACCELERATOR
POSITION SENDER
M
CPU
ACCELERATOR
POSITION SENDERS
SAFETY MODULE
ANGLE SENDER FOR
THROTTLE VALVE DRIVE
Fig.7: the Bosch ME electronic throttle control system. Dual (redundant)
potentiometers are used in both the accelerator position sensor and for the
throttle angle feedback sensor. [Audi]
August 2000 7
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
n
i
m
e
r
e
h
T
Get the eerie soaring
sounds of science fiction
You wave your hands
around mysteriously
to play it
16 Silicon Chip
Producing sounds with the slightest of hand
gestures, the Theremin is the forerunner of
modern synthesised music. You can create
eerie science fiction movie sounds or make
melodious music simply by hand movements.
By JOHN CLARKE
T
HE THEREMIN WAS invented
by Leon Theremin of Lenin
grad, Russia in 1924 and it
represented a revolutionary change
in thinking about how music could
be produced, challenging traditional
stringed, brass and percussion musical
instruments.
Comprising electronic oscillators, it
allowed control over both pitch and
amplitude by moving the hands over
sensor plates. Its design eventually
led to the development of the Moog
Synthe
siser and electronically synthesised music in general.
But the invention was not only
instrumental in the development of
electronic music, it also had an impact on a free-form style of playing
music. The free gesture hand control
afforded by the Theremin pre-empted
the modern Sensor Chair synthesiser
controller where the whole body is a
part of the musical generation process.
Before this, Jimi Hendrix was
creating new sounds by gener
ating
feedback between his guitar and the
amplified sound and then moving
his body to modulate the amplitude.
It freed him from the restriction of
generating music solely by plucking
the guitar strings.
The Theremin was commercially
manufactured by the Radio-victor
Corporation of America (RCA) around
1929. It comprised a large box to
which were attached an antenna and
wire loop. The antenna provided the
control for the pitch while the loop
enabled the volume to be adjusted.
Moving the right hand toward the
antenna would reduce the pitch while
moving the hand away from the antenna would increase the pitch.
In some ways this is similar to playing a trombone whereby the slide is
moved back and forth to vary the pitch.
The left hand would reduce the
volume as it was brought near the
sensor loop. As you would expect, the
original Theremin circuit used valves.
The pitch control antenna stood
vertically, while the volume loop sat
horizontally. This meant that there
was little interaction between the two
controls especially since the pitch
control hand would be held side on
to the antenna and the volume control
hand would be horizontal. Thus the
interaction between the two controls
would be minimised.
In recent times there has been quite
a renewal of interest in the Theremin
and there is a fair amount of information on the Internet. However, none of
it is really helpful if you want to build
your own Theremin.
And this is where this completely
new Theremin circuit comes into the
picture. It has exactly the same operational characteristics as the original
RCA Theremin but does not use valves
(perish the thought). Instead it uses
just three low cost ICs and a handful
of other components.
Not only that, our new Theremin is
considerably smaller than the original
design although you could build a
large one if that’s what you fancy.
We built ours into a medium sized
plastic Jiffy box with the antenna and
sensor loop mounted on opposite
sides of the box. It includes a small
Fig.1: the Theremin circuit involves three virtually identical oscillators, two to generate the tone and one to
control the volume.
August 2000 17
Fig.2: the reference oscillator and pitch oscillator are
mixed together in the product detector (IC1) to produce
an audible tone which is amplified by IC2a and IC3.
18 Silicon Chip
Fig.3: these digital scope waveforms show the reference
and pitch oscillators locked together at 441kHz and the
difference result is no output tone. Normally, the ref
erence oscillator remains fixed while the pitch oscillator
is varied by hand capacitance.
loudspeaker for practice sessions and
a line output for connection to a sound
system. The only manual controls are
an On/Off switch and volume control.
The unit is powered by a 9V or 12V
DC plugpack.
Circuit principles
The block diagram of Fig.1 shows
the basic arrangement of the Theremin
circuit. It comprises three oscillators
which all operate at about 455kHz.
The reference and pitch oscillators
are mixed together to generate a beat
signal which becomes the audible tone
while the volume oscillator is used to
change the level of the tone output.
The reference oscillator operates at
a fixed frequency and is mixed with
the pitch oscillator in the product
detector (IC1). The pitch oscillator
changes in frequency depending upon
the amount of capacitance to earth
presented by your hand when it is
near the antenna. As noted above, the
frequency will fall when the hand is
brought near to the antenna and rises
when it is further away.
The product detector essentially
multiplies the reference oscillator (f1)
with the pitch oscillator (f2) to produce
sum (f1 + f2) and difference (f2 - f1)
frequencies.
The sum (f1 + f2) signal is at around
900kHz which is easily filtered out
with a low pass filter and we are left
with the difference signal of f2 - f1
which comprises audio frequen
cies
from 1.4kHz down to below 10Hz.
So if the pitch oscillator frequency is
Fig.4: this is the line output signal when the pitch osc
illator is 833Hz lower than the reference oscillator. Note
the relatively clean sinewave output.
456kHz and the reference oscillator
is at 455kHz, we will obtain a 1kHz
audio output from the low pass filter.
The audio output from the low pass
filter is applied to a power amplifier
which can drive a loudspeaker. The
overall volume from the amplifier is
set by the volume control VR1.
The volume oscillator is controlled
by the sensor loop which is also affected by hand capacitance. As you
bring your hand closer to the loop,
the frequency of the volume oscillator
decreases. This is fed to a bandpass
filter which has a centre frequency
(fc) which is higher than the volume
oscillator frequency. So if the volume
oscillator is operating at frequency f1
the level will be low. As the frequency
increases, the level will increase as it
approaches the centre frequency of
the filter.
This signal level is detected using
a diode and filtered to produce a DC
voltage. The following amplifier increases the DC voltage and the level
shifter sets the voltage so that it can
control the product detector output
level over a suitable range via its
transconductance input.
Circuit details
The circuit for the Theremin uses
three JFETs (Junction Field Effect
Transistors), four prewound IF (Intermediate Frequen
cy) coils, three
ICs, one detector diode, a 3-terminal
regulator and associated resistors and
capacitors.
As you can see, all three oscillators
are identical with the exception of the
100Ω drain resistor for Q3. Each oscillator comprises a junction FET (JFET)
Q1 and a standard IF transformer, as
used in low-cost AM radio receivers.
The transformer comprises a tapped
winding which has a parallel-connected capacitor to form a tuned circuit. The secondary winding couples
the oscillator signal to the following
circuitry.
Each JFET drives a portion of the
primary winding (ie, between the tap
connection pin 2 and ground) while
the signal across the full winding is
applied back to the gate via a 68pF
capacitor. This is the positive feedback
which ensures oscillation.
To make them controllable by hand
capacitance, the Pitch and Volume
oscillators have the antenna and disc
connected to the top of the tuned coil
where they will have the most effect.
The reference oscillator and pitch
oscillator outputs are applied to an
MC1496 balanced mixer, IC1. Resistors
between the +6V supply and ground
set the bias voltages for the inputs of
the balanced mixer, while the 1kΩ
resistor between pins 2 & 3 sets the
gain of the circuit.
IC1 provides a balanced output with
signals at pin 6 and pin 12. These
outputs are filtered with a 3.3kΩ
pullup resistor and .047µF capacitor
to produce rolloff above about 1kHz.
This heavily attenuates frequencies
at 455kHz.
The output from pin 12 is AC-coupled to op amp IC2a which simply
August 2000 19
Fig.5: the component overlay
for the PC board. Note that
IF transformers T1, T2 &
T3 should all be fitted with
white slugs, while T4 should
have a black slug.
buffers the signal before it is applied
to volume control VR1. IC2a’s output
signal also goes to the line output
terminal. The signal from IC2a is
AC-coupled to both VR1 and the line
output to prevent DC voltage flowing
through the pot and the line output.
IC3 is an LM386 1W amplifier which
The loudspeaker
and on/off switch
are mounted on
the lid of the case
and connected to
the PC board using
light-duty hookup
wire.
20 Silicon Chip
drives the loudspeaker via a 470µF
electrolytic capacitor. The .047µF
capacitor and series 10Ω resistor form
a Zobel network to prevent spurious
oscillation from the amplifier.
Volume oscillator
The output from the volume oscil-
lator at the secondary winding of T3
is AC-coupled to the base of transistor
Q4. This is connected as a common
emitter amplifier with the collector
load being a parallel-tuned circuit
comprising an IF coil with internal
capacitor. T4 and the associated capacitor are tuned to a frequency just
above the maximum available from the
volume oscillator. The emitter resistor
is bypassed with a 560pF capacitor
which provides rolloff below about
400kHz.
The output level from transformer
T4 will vary in proportion to the frequency from the volume oscillator.
This is because the filter provides a
sharp rolloff below its tuning frequency and small changes in frequency
which are below the centre frequency
will cause large changes in the filter
response. The action of this circuit is
a simple frequency modulation (FM)
detector.
The high frequency signal from T4
is rectified by diode D1 and filtered to
provide a DC signal which is amplified
by op amp IC2b by up to 1000, depending on the setting of VR2. IC2b’s output
is then fed to pin 5 of IC1 to vary the
level of the audio signal.
Oscilloscope waveforms
The oscilloscope waveforms of
Fig.3 & Fig.4 demonstrate the circuit
operation. Fig.3 shows the reference
and pitch oscillators locked together
at 441kHz and the result of that is no
output tone. Normally, the reference
oscillator remains fixed while the
pitch oscillator is varied by hand
capacitance.
Fig.4 shows the line output signal
when the pitch oscillator is 833Hz
lower than the reference oscillator.
Note the relatively clean sinewave
output. The output level is a healthy
539mV RMS.
Power for the circuit comes from
a DC plugpack which is regulated
by REG1, a 5V regulator. The output
The PC board fits inside a standard plastic case, with the volume plate protrud
ing through a slot at one end. Alternatively, the plate could be permanently
fixed to the lid of the case or mounted so that it can swivel over the lid for easy
storage.
This view shows the mounting details for the telescopic antenna, which
functions as the pitch control.
August 2000 21
is “jacked up” by a nominal 0.7V by
diode D2 to give a nominal +6V which
will actually be around +5.7V. The input and output terminals of REG1 are
decoupled with electrolytic capacitors
to aid in supply filtering and to prevent
instability in the regulator.
Construction
All the parts for the Theremin are
assembled onto a PC board coded
01207001 and measuring 133 x 88mm.
It is mounted in a plastic Jiffy box
which measures 158 x 95 x 53mm.
While our assembly description
revolves around the plastic case with
its small speaker, there is no reason
why you couldn’t build it into a much
larger case in keeping with a musical
in
strument. A larger amplifier and
loudspeaker would also be a considerable benefit in the overall sound
quality.
You can begin construction by
checking the PC board for any defects
such as shorts between tracks, breaks
in the copper tracks and incorrectly
drilled holes. You will need slightly
larger than the standard 1mm sized
hole for the coil earth pins on the sides
of the shielding cans, while holes for
The Theremin will give more
consistent results if it is mounted
on a raised non-metallic stand so
that it is at least 60mm from any
surfaces. This stand was made
from a discarded plastic panel
and some plastic tubing.
Table 2: Capacitor Codes
The completed Theremin, together with its plastic stand. You use your right
hand to control the pitch by waving it near the antenna, while your left hand
and the circular metal plate control the volume.
Value
IEC Code EIA Code
0.1µF 100n 104
.047µF 47n 473
560pF 560p 561
220pF 220p 221
68pF 68p 68
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
No.
1
1
6
2
1
2
1
1
8
1
1
1
2
1
22 Silicon Chip
Value
1MΩ
270kΩ
100kΩ
10kΩ
6.8kΩ
3.3kΩ
2.2kΩ
1.2kΩ
1kΩ
820Ω
680Ω
150Ω
100Ω
10Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black green brown
red violet yellow brown
brown black yellow brown
brown black orange brown
blue grey red brown
orange orange red brown
red red red brown
brown red red brown
brown black red brown
grey red brown brown
blue grey brown brown
brown green brown brown
brown black brown brown
brown black black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black yellow brown
red violet black orange brown
brown black black orange brown
brown black black red brown
blue grey black brown brown
orange orange black brown brown
red red black brown brown
brown red black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
grey red black black brown
blue grey black black brown
brown green black black brown
brown black black black brown
brown black black gold brown
the PC stakes should be sized to suit
their diameter; they should be a tight
fit.
Check that the PC board clips neatly
into the plastic case’s integral side
pillars. It may need to be filed down
to make a snug fit. The component
overlay and wiring details are shown
in Fig.5.
Insert the two links and then the
resistors. Use Table 1 as a guide to
selecting each value. Alternatively,
use a digital multimeter to measure
each resistor.
The three ICs can be mounted next,
taking care with their orientation.
Make sure that IC2 & IC3 are placed
in the correct positions.
Next, the capacitors can be mount
ed, noting that the electrolytic types
are polarised and must be oriented
with the correct polarity, as shown.
The MKT and ceramic types usually
are coded and you can check this
against the values shown in Table 2.
The coils are prewound types each
with an integral tuning capacitor and
are mounted as shown. Be sure to
place the ones with the white slugs
(the threaded ferrite core) in the T1-T3
positions and the coil with the black
slug in the T4 position.
Now mount the JFETs (2N5484),
transistor Q4 (BC548) and the 3-terminal regulator. Diodes D1-D3 can be
mounted next, taking care with their
orientation.
Finally, mount potentiometer VR1
and trimpot VR2. VR1 is mounted using five PC stakes as shown. Three PC
stakes connect the pot terminals to the
PC board while the remaining two PC
stakes are soldered to the pot body to
hold it in place. Scrape the passivated
coating off the pot body adjacent to the
PC stakes for easy soldering.
With the PC board complete, you
are ready to work on the case. You
will need to drill holes in the sides
of the box for the DC panel socket,
the RCA socket and for the antenna
securing screw.
Volume plate
The volume plate is made from light
gauge aluminium 70mm in diameter
and is connected via a lead and solder
lug to the PC board.
We mounted the volume plate on the
prototype so that it could slide into the
case when not in use. This requires a
narrow slot to be cut into the side of
the case. We made the slot by drilling
Parts List
1 PC board, code 01207001, 133
x 88mm
1 plastic Jiffy box, 158 x 95 x
53mm
1 front panel label, 155 x 92mm
1 9VDC or 12VDC 300mA
plugpack
1 telescopic antenna (pitch
antenna)
1 70mm diameter (or 70mm
square) 1mm aluminium plate
(volume)
1 DC socket (2.5mm diameter
pin)
1 panel-mount RCA socket
1 50mm 8Ω loudspeaker
3 2nd IF coils (DSE L0260 white)
(T1-T3)
1 3rd IF coil (DSE L0260 black)
(T4)
1 SPST rocker switch (S1)
1 knob
2 crimp eyelets
1 M3 x 15mm screw
1 M3 x 10mm screw
3 M3 nuts
1 200mm length of yellow
medium-duty hookup wire
1 200mm length of blue
medium-duty hookup wire
1 50mm length of 0.8mm tinned
copper wire
1 short cable tie
13 PC stakes
1 10kΩ log pot (VR1)
1 2kΩ horizontal trimpot (VR2)
a series of small holes and then filing
it to the correct size.
If you don’t want to go to the trouble
of making the slot you can permanently attach the volume plate to the lid
of the case or mount it so that it can
swivel over the lid for easy storage.
Attach the front panel label to the
lid and drill the holes for the switch
and some holes for the loudspeaker.
We mounted the speaker by smearing
super glue around its perimeter and
then placing it inside the lid.
Follow the wiring details of Fig.5.
You can use hookup wire to connect
the sockets, switch S1 and the loudspeaker to the PC board.
The antenna is attached with an M3
x 15 screw plus an M3 nut which is
secured to the case with another M3
nut. The eyelet lug is held beneath the
Semiconductors
1 MC1496 balanced modulator
(IC1)
1 LM358 dual op amp (IC2)
1 LM386N-1 1W amplifier (IC3)
1 7805 3-terminal regulator
(REG1)
3 2N5484 N-channel JFETs
(Q1-Q3)
1 BC548 NPN transistor (Q4)
1 1N914, 1N4148 signal diode
(D1)
2 1N4004 1A diodes (D2,D3)
Capacitors
2 470µF 16VW PC electrolytic
1 100µF 16VW PC electrolytic
6 10µF 25VW PC electrolytic
1 2.2µF 16VW PC electrolytic
8 0.1µF MKT polyester
3 .047µF MKT polyester
1 560pF ceramic
3 220pF ceramic
3 68pF ceramic
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 1MΩ
1 1.2kΩ
1 270kΩ
8 1kΩ
6 100kΩ
1 820Ω
2 10kΩ
1 680Ω
1 6.8kΩ
1 150Ω
2 3.3kΩ
2 100Ω
1 2.2kΩ
1 10Ω
Miscellaneous
Solder, super glue.
nut and the wire connects to the PC
board as shown. A connection is made
to the volume plate via an eyelet lug
using an M3 x 10mm screw through a
hole which is held using a nut.
Setting up
When your Theremin is complete,
check your work carefully. Apply power and check that there is a nominal
+6V between the case of one of the
transformer coils T1-T4 and pin 8 of
IC2 & pin 6 of IC3. The voltage should
be between +5.6V and +5.8V.
Adjust VR2 so that pin 1 of IC2 goes
to about +4.3V and wind VR1 slightly
clockwise from its fully anticlockwise
position.
Use a plastic alignment tool to rotate
the slug in transformer T2 slightly until a tone is heard in the loudspeaker.
August 2000 23
Fig.6 actual size
artwork for the
front panel.
Fig.7: actual size
artwork for the
PC board.
Then adjust it to obtain a
good frequency range when
your hand is brought near
to the extended antenna.
The note should be at its
highest when your hand is
away from the antenna and
should fall to a very low
frequency (just a growl)
when your hand is very
close to the antenna.
If the effect is the reverse
of this (higher frequency as
your hand is brought close
to the antenna) then adjust
the slug in the opposite
direction until the effect
is correct.
Note that you must do
this adjustment away from
the effects of metallic objects or the Theremin will
require retuning when removed from these grounding sources. In fact, the Theremin
will give more consistent results if it
is mounted on a raised stand which
keeps the unit at least 60mm from
any surfaces. The stand should be
made from a non-metallic material.
Volume plate alignment
The volume operation is set by adjusting the slug in T4 until the voltage
at the cathode of diode D1 is at +1.7V.
Then carefully adjust VR2 so that the
volume is at its maximum when your
hand is away from the volume plate.
24 Silicon Chip
Bringing your hand close to the plate
should reduce the volume.
You may need to set VR2 so that
the volume just goes to its minimum
level when rotated anticlockwise.
You then slowly adjust it clockwise
until the volume just snaps into full
level. If the volume does not reduce
with your hand approaching the plate
and the level remains essentially
constant or if the level rises, then
T4 is adjusted with the slug too far
clockwise.
This means that the circuit is op-
erating with the volume oscillator
equal to or higher than the tuned
frequency. Adjust the slug of T4
anticlock
wise so that the volume
plate operates correctly.
Note that when the lid is fitted to
the case, the tuning will change. We
drilled a hole in the lid to allow VR2
to be adjusted with the lid in place.
Also, the adjustment of VR2 will set
the sensitivity of the Theremin volume plate to hand movement. The
more precisely VR2 is adjusted, the
SC
greater will be the sensitivity.
MAILBAG
Manual wanted for
Osborne monitor
I am attempting to repair a 20inch Osborne high quality monitor,
type MON 020. It was given to me
as it was not cost effective to have it
repaired commercially. It has burn
ed inductors in the horizontal output stage and the horizontal output
transistor and one other transistor
on the heatsink have been removed
by a previous repairer.
I realize that Osborne as a brand
no longer exists but I feel that the
monitor has some useful life left
in it and would like to attempt a
repair. Is there anyone who can
help me with device numbers for
transistors 7605 and 7615. (These
are the numbers on the PC board.)
The inductors I can rewind myself.
I would be happy to pay a reasonable amount for a manual or circuit
diagram. A circuit would be most
helpful but not essential.
Ian Thomson,
80 Bungarribee Rd,
Blacktown NSW 2148,
Phone (02) 9621 2938
thomsi<at>start.com.au
or thomsi&Integral.com.au
Modern cars are
only evolutionary
In the July 2000 “Publisher’s
Letter” Mr Simpson talks about
42V car electrics. In the opening
sentence he states, “Most people
would agree that there have been
radical changes in the design of
automobiles in the last 15 years
or so.” I must disagree with this
opinion, as quite frankly, at best,
the adaptation of electronic fuel
injection, computer controlled
transmissions and the like are at
best a refinement of a very old tech
nology. Improvement, yes, radical
change, I don’t think so.
It is too easy to get caught up in
our own brilliance and forget that
automobiles, as far as their general
principal of operation goes, have
not changed in over 100 years. We
are still driving cars that employ a
largely inefficient internal combus
tion engine, driving through some
sort of transmission to either the
front, back or all four wheels. This
description equally applies to the
first Model T Ford, or the latest
Commodore. The biggest real difference between them is the styling.
We should not confuse evolution
with revolution. The advent of safety features such as ABS brakes and
air bags are welcome additions to
the modern car; as is anything that
can improve our chances of surviving a crash. These are evolutionary
devices and do not change the way
the car operates.
Many creature comforts rely on
electronics such as central locking, climate control air-con, CD
players, satellite navigation, DVD
etc. Again, let’s not pat ourselves
on the back too quickly. Most of
these exist outside of the motor car
already. Fitting them into a vehicle
hardly makes them a giant leap for
mankind. They do not contribute
to what the car’s main purpose is,
and that is to propel the vehicle
in the desired direction. They just
make it more pleasant or safe while
we’re driving.
You might think that I am against
all this gadgetry. Not so. It’s just
I wish we could make some real
advances in the automobile, such
as a genuine radical change to the
method of propulsion, with large
improvements in efficiency. The
only changes between models that
are obvious now are the restyling
changes, which are nothing more
than a new grille here and a new
curve there. Right now cars are
starting to get sharper, squarer
shapes around the boot area and
straighter glass lines. Didn’t we see
this in the eighties?
Unfortunately even at the young
age of 32 I probably won’t live to
see the death of the internal combustion engine, although I hope
I’m wrong. Personally I can’t wait
for the flying cars out of the movie
‘Back to the Future 2’. Now that
would be a radical change. However, I don’t think the oil companies
want us to have that just yet!
Paul Campbell,
Arana Hills, Qld.
Who is in charge
of the kingdom?
I would like to add my experience with Queensland’s Elec
trical Workers Board. Firstly, your
previous correspondent was in
no way being too harsh on this
group whose primary interest is in
self-perpetuation. My field of work
is broadcast electronics where I
have maintained high-power radio
and television transmitters for over
20 years.
Here we regularly work with
single and 3-phase mains operated
equipment where input powers
in the 100s of kVA feeding DC
supplies of 25kV at many amps
are not uncommon. I am a trained
professional and perform maintenance on this equipment with skill
and care, where adherence to safety
procedures are paramount and yet
I fall into the same category; I am
not permitted to install a new GPO
in my own home or build a kit that
delivers switched 240VAC.
To be honest I had given up trying to do anything about this. I’ve
come to expect that lugs bolted to
contactors glow cherry red when
tightening the bolt is forgotten or
that if you order a 10A 3-phase
supply, it may be wired with single
phase 3-core 2.5mm building wire
where two reds and a black are Actives, the other black is Neutral and
use either 1 or 2 greens as Earth.
When I asked about sleeving, they
continued on page 91
August 2000 25
CircuitMaker 2000 The Virtual
Electronics Lab
If you thought that access
to the latest printed circuit
board design and circuit
simulation tools was
restricted to big companies
with big budgets, think
again! This review looks at
CircuitMaker 2000, a
complete design solution
aimed at small to mediumsized projects and users.
By PETER SMITH
CircuitMaker 2000 is a new
release of a mature product
developed by the US company
MicroCode Engineering. Micro
Code have a 10-year history in
the development of affordable
electronic design automation
(EDA) software.
MicroCode Engineering
were recently acquired by
Protel International, a name
that most of us are familiar
with (we reviewed Protel 99 in the
January 2000 issue). The upshot is
that CircuitMaker is now being sold
and supported in Australia.
26 Silicon Chip
The CircuitMaker 2000 package
includes schematic capture, analog
and digital circuit simulation and PCB
layout software and is offered in both
“Standard” and “Professional” editions. We reviewed the Professional
edition but we’ll note the differences
as we look at each of the major functions. Let’s jump right in …
Schematic capture
The first stage in bringing a design
to reality is getting the schematic
down on “paper”. CircuitMaker
2000’s schematic editing environment is based around the familiar
Windows-style interface, and is one
of the easiest-to-use I have seen.
A comprehensive library of component symbols is directly accessible
from a browser panel on the left side
of the workspace (see Fig.1). A handy
feature allows assignment of shortcut
keys to the most common components
in a circuit, which means that once
you’ve found the symbol you want
the first time, you don’t have to waste
time searching for it again.
If you need a symbol that’s not in
the library (and that shouldn’t be too
often), you can use the inbuilt Symbol
Editor to edit an existing symbol or
create a new one from scratch (see
Fig.2). Unlike the schematic-editing
environment, I think that a newcomer
would find the Symbol Editor quite
awkward and decidedly non-intuitive. There is no access to on-line
help while the Symbol Editor is open,
either. Ho-hum, it really does provide
everything needed to edit or create
both simple and complex symbols,
with the ability to link all kinds of
simulation data (see “Circuit simulation” below).
If you’d like to see the complete list
of devices included with CircuitMaker 2000, you can download the Device
Library Guide (in Adobe PDF format)
from http://www.circuitmaker.com/
downloads/libraries.htm
Wiring it all together is a piece
of cake. Click on a device pin or a
wire, drag the cursor to the target
connection point and release, and
CircuitMaker automatically routes the
wire. And you don’t have to precisely
place the wire start and end points, as
CircuitMaker automatically captures
the cursor when it is moved close to
any node (like a device pin).
As you’d expect, wires can be routed manually if desired. A large cursor
Fig.1: finding the right symbol and wiring it up is a simple task in the Schematic
Editor.
Fig.2: if you need to create a new symbol (or change an old one), you do it in the
Symbol Editor. Put on a pot of coffee if it’s your first attempt, though . . .
makes it easy to line everything up
neatly – very useful in this package
as the “snap to grid” option snaps
symbols to a grid but not wires.
Editing your masterpiece is very
straightforward. Symbols can be
moved around the workspace with
connecting wires intact, as they are
automatically “rubberbanded”. Wires
can be lengthened, shortened or deleted with little more that a right mouse
click, or moved intact to a new position by clicking and dragging. Precise
alignment of objects can be achieved
by “nudging” them into position with
the arrow keys.
Circuit simulation
With the schematic completed, you
can move directly to PCB layout and
physical prototype. But what if you
could test (optimise, demonstrate)
your design first?
CircuitMaker 2000 includes a powerful analog and digital circuit simulator that is tightly integrated with the
schematic editor. Most symbols in the
library are linked to pre-defined simuAugust 2000 27
Fig.3: digital simulation is easy to drive and the results are plain to see. Here
we follow the condition of five points in the circuit (TP1 to TP6) with the logic
analyser. Simple breakpoints and single or multiple-cycle stepping lets you slow
things down to human level.
lation information (called “models”),
so once your circuit is complete, you
can begin simulation with very little
setup. Over 4000 device models are
included in the Standard edition, and
6000 in the Profession edition.
Two independent simulation
modes are provided. For analog or
mixed analog and digital circuits,
CircuitMaker 2000 includes an enhanced SPICE 3f5 and XSPICE compatible simulator. SPICE (a classical
computer acronym meaning “Simulation Program with Integrated Circuit
Emphasis”) is the industry-standard
method for circuit simulation.
The second mode supports digital
simulation only and is of proprietary
design. Why? Well, the CircuitMaker
people have been able to incorporate
some very nice interactive features
in this mode, making it a powerful
instructional tool. Lets look at this
mode first.
Digital simulation
Any complete digital circuit includes some kind of clock source, so
the first step is to connect either the
logic pulser or logic sequencer from
CircuitMaker’s “instrument” devices.
Next, test points can be connected to
each node that we would like to examine (instruments and test points are
placed from the component browser
and connected just like regular components). Finally, clicking on the
“run” button launches a “real-time”
simulation of the circuit, with waveforms for each test point displayable
either in split-screen or full-screen
mode (see Fig.3).
Fig.4: you can
have your
tudents pulling
their hair out
with the digital
simulator’s
Device Faults
function.
28 Silicon Chip
Digital simulation includes a number of major features that make it ideal
for educational purposes. Firstly, a
built-in logic probe enables instant
display of the logic state (low, high or
high-impedance) of any point in the
circuit, much like using a real probe
on a real prototype. Secondly, a trace
mode can display the logic state of
every wire in the circuit by changing
its colour to either blue, red or green
to indicate a low, high or high-impedance state respectively.
Another useful feature allows faults
to be introduced into the circuit for a
real “hands-on” learning experience
(see Fig.4).
And lastly, CircuitMaker 2000
includes a handful of “animated”
components. Devices like 7-segment
displays, buzzers and LEDs function
just like their real-world counterparts.
And there’s even a launchable rocket!
(see Fig.5).
Analog simulation
A whole host of analyses can be
performed on both analog and mixed
analog and digital circuits using the
SPICE simulator (see Fig.6). These
include DC Analysis, AC Analysis,
DC Operating Point, Transient Analysis, Parameter Sweep and Fourier
Analysis. The Professional edition
adds Transfer Function, Noise, Temperature Sweep, Monte Carlo and
Impedance Plot analyses.
A variety of virtual instruments are
available for generating stimuli and
viewing the simulation results. These
include an Oscilloscope, Digital Multimeter, Bode Plotter, Curve Tracer,
Signal Generator, Data Sequencer,
Logic Analyser, Logic Probe and Logic
Pulser.
For my money, the stand-out part
of the CircuitMaker 2000 package lies
right here in its analog simulation
capabilities. Even a beginner to simulation can quickly get meaningful
test results.
A probe tool allows instant measurement of voltage, current and power
almost anywhere in the circuit. Just
point and click and the results are immediately displayed on the selected
instrument for analysis. Conversely,
some other packages insist that you
define test points and connect instruments before the simulation even
begins.
Sensible default simulation parameters, automatic waveform scaling and
zooming and many other handy little
shortcuts go together to make this
simulator a very useful tool indeed.
PC board layout
“TraxMaker” is the name of the PCB
layout software included with Circuit
Maker 2000. Although it’s a separate
module, it is closely integrated with
the schematic editing software. To
transfer information from the schematic editor to TraxMaker it’s just a
matter of clicking on the “Export PCB
Netlist” button. To make life even easier, you can have TraxMaker position
all components on your board ready
for placement and routing (see Fig.8).
A handy addition to the Professional edition also allows direct import of
Protel Advanced PCB2 and Advanced
PCB3 ASCII files.
Manual track placement and editing are a breeze and have a familiar
feel. For example, a right mouse click
provides easy access to the most commonly used functions, as do shortcut
keys and menu bar buttons – just like
the schematic editor!
Individual tracks, groups of tracks
or the entire board can be routed automatically if desired. The Professional
edition includes a more sophisticated
autorouter (call a “ripup and retry”
maze autorouter) which has a higher
completion rate and more efficient
routing (meaning less vias).
All routing is grid-based, with a
maximum resolution of .025mm (.001
inch).
Up to eight copper layers are supported (six signal layers and two
power planes) as well as solder and
paste masks, keep out layer and reference layer – more than enough for
most small to medium-sized projects.
TraxMaker includes a comprehensive component footprint library. And
if you can’t find what you want in
the library (see Fig.10), editing or expanding it is a cinch. New footprints
are drawn directly in the PCB editor
space using standard primitives like
pads, tracks and text, then grouped
and included in the library in a single
step. Great!
Fig.5: interactive devices make your digital simulations come to life! This
example shows switches, a piezo buzzer and a LED display that really work.
Fig.6: CircuitMaker’s analog simulation is first rate. Here we examine the
voltage at four nodes in an astable multivibrator circuit.
Checking your work
Before shipping your design off
to be made, you can be sure that it’s
right (at least electrically!) by running the Design Rules Checker (see
Fig.11). It looks for basic problems
in your layout like open circuit nets
and clearance violations (tracks/pads
short circuited or too close together)
and generates a detailed report.
In common with all PCB layout
software, TraxMaker generates industry-standard output file formats
(Gerber and Excellon) that will be
acceptable to all PCB manufacturers.
CircuitMaker 2000 Professional
edition includes an additional piece
of software called TraxCAM PRO, a
fully featured Gerber viewer and ediAugust 2000 29
Fig.7a (left & Fig.7b
(above): setting up
two of CircuitMaker’s
instruments.
Fig.8: two mouse clicks gets your design
into the PCB layout software.
tor. TraxCAM PRO allows you to query, edit, print and add copper pours
to your design prior to manufacture.
Last word
Overall, we were impressed with
the simplicity of use and value for
money in this package. Its circuit
simulation capabilities alone would
make it an attractive proposition for
institutions involved in electronics
training.
Like more information?
Fig.9: editing a single-sided design in TraxMaker, the PCB layout module. In
fact, this is the PCB from the 40V 1A power supply project described in the
August 2000 issue. The design was imported from a Protel Advanced PCB
file (ASCII format).
Fig.10: TraxMaker’s footprint library is comprehensive
and easy to use.
30 Silicon Chip
Loads of information and a downloadable demo is available from the
CircuitMaker web site at http://www.
circuitmaker.com
Local telephone support is available on 1800 676 684 or e-mail
aust-support<at>circuitmaker.com
The pricing details are as follows:
(1) Standard Edition $645 (includes
GST); (2) Professional Edition $1195
(includes GST). For sales enquires
phone 1800 030 949 or e-mail austSC
sales<at>circuitmaker.com
Fig.11: a Design Rules Checker allows final checks on
your work before sending it to manufacturing.
August 2000 31
!
Come in r !!
e
r
e
n
n
i
SSpppi n
S
S
SS ppi r
SSppiinnnnneee
SSppiinin eerrr
SSSp !
S
SS pi
SSppiinnnne r!!
e
!
r
r
!
!
No, it’s not our version of the great Aussie game. This “Spinner” is
one of the simplest projects we’ve ever published – yet also one of
the most intriguing. It writes messages in thin air as you spin it! It’s
very easy to build, costs very little and makes a great “first project”.
W
ith just 13 components and
a couple of switches to solder in place, this project is
about as simple as projects can get.
Yet it will amaze you and all who see
it in operation. Messages seem to write
in mid-air when you give it a spin!
There is no motor to spin the Spinner – it is operated by finger power. All
you do is set the message you want to
display by appropriate switch pushes,
then flick the message stick on its axis
so that it spins.
There are two parts to the Spinner:
the message stick itself, which contains all the components, and a handheld battery pack which also provides
the axle on which the stick can spin.
The axle is a little unusual – it is
in fact a 3.5mm phono plug mounted
in the end of the battery pack. On the
stick is the matching 3.5mm phono
socket. When you “plug” the battery
pack onto the message stick’s socket,
as well as creating the spinning mechanism you’re also supplying power to
the system. Clever, eh?
But wait, there’s more!
Attached to the back of the PC
board, close to the axle, is a short
32 Silicon Chip
length of fairly thick tinned copper
wire, almost (but not quite) long
enough to touch the surface of the end
of the battery holder as the board is
spun around.
Secured across the end of the battery holder is another length of tinned
copper wire, just high enough to be
hit by the wire sticking out from the
PC board.
So as the PC board is spun around,
once every revolution these two wires
touch. This tells the circuit to dump
the contents of the on-board memory
(actually a small PIC microcontroller
chip) which in turn tells the LEDs to
light up in certain patterns.
If the board is spun slowly, all you
will see is a line of glowing LEDs for
a short time and then nothing.
But if it is spun at a reasonable
speed and in the right direction (by
giving it a good flick with your finger)
the LEDs are moving as the micro
controller instructs them to turn on
and off.
Like the moving message display
Design by Attilla Aknar*
Words by Ross Tester
board we featured last issue, the LEDs
spell out a message. In fact, there is
not really a message at all but the
eyes, with their persistence of vision,
“remember” how the LEDs glow over
the course of their travel and that’s
how the message is produced.
And all this appears to happen “in
space” – the spinning PC board moves
too fast to be focused on (it actually
appears as a blur) but the eyes (and
the brain) remember the message as
if it was really there.
The length of the message (not
the number of letters but the actual
width of the letters around the arc)
depends on the speed of the spinning
PC board. If you spin it really quickly
the message can occupy a significant
proportion of the circle.
As it slows down (which of course
it must do due to friction) the letters
become thinner and thinner. Eventually (as the spinning stops), the whole
message is displayed in the width of
one LED – or 5mm. This is of course
completely unreadable.
The messages
There are three different spinners
available, depending on which PIC
Look mum, it’s magic! This photo is not
retouched – the image that you see is
part of the image that we saw written “in
space” (it happens to be the designer’s
name but it has been abbreviated a bit by
the length of time the camera shutter was
open – about 1/8 second). With a good
swift flick, the message can occupy a
good 180° of arc.
chip is supplied (each contains different programming.
First is the Spell Spinner which displays each letter of the alphabet and
a word beginning with that letter (eg,
A APPLE, B BOY, C CAT and so on).
Pressing the up and down pushbutton
switches advances the message one
letter. The third switch is not used in
this, or the next Spinner.
Second is the Message Spinner
which has ten different messages
programmed (some examples are
shown below). Stepping between the
messages is also done with the up/
down push buttons.
Finally there’s the Programmable
Spinner where you enter your own
message with the up and down pushbutton switches. As you enter each
letter of your message, you place it in
memory by pushing the third switch.
It will take you a while, because
each press of the switch advances
one letter of the alphabet. So if you
want to program in a message saying
“MY NAME IS XERXES” you’re up
for about 200 button presses! (Lucky
you if your name is ABE – only about
110 button presses!!!)
Construction
As the chances are that this could
be your first project, we’re going to
cover this section in much more detail
than normal.
First, examine the PC board closely
(you might need a magnifying glass for
this). Check to see if there are any broken tracks or if any points are bridged
together. We’ve published the full-size
PC board pattern to help you do this,
Some of the messages displayed in
version two of the Spinner. Another six
or so are accessed by pressing the up/
down pushbutton switches.
August 2000 33
There’s not much to it, is there? A PIC microcontroller, five LEDs and a few other
components make up The Spinner. The messages depend on which PIC you use.
though with a board like this (which
has very fine tracks and close track
spacing) making a board yourself (at
home, school, etc) is pretty much out
of the question. Besides, the PC boards
have been priced very well to make it
a cheap kit to buy.
Having satisfied yourself that the PC
board is as it should be, it’s time to start
inserting and soldering components.
Start with the five 100Ω resistors.
These 1/10W resistors are much smaller than the 1/4W resistors we normally
use in projects so require a little more
care than normal. All of the resistor
leads should be bent up 90° so that
each resistor forms a “U” shape with
the verticals exactly 7mm apart and
parallel, with the resistor body itself
across the bottom of the “U”.
The components all mount on the
side of the PC board opposite to the
copper tracks. They do not need any
glue or other method of holding in
place because their legs or leads poke
through the board and are soldered to
the copper pads.
(If you’re not new to this, don’t laugh
– we all had to start somewhere. And
we’ve seen some beautifully constructed PC boards with the components
all carefully glued in position on the
copper side of the board with not a
milligram of solder to be seen!!!)
Place the resistors in their appropriate holes one by one, soldering them as
you go. Because of the extremely fine
tracks and tiny pads on this board it’s
easy to damage it with too much heat
from your soldering iron.
Ideally, you need a fine to very
fine tipped iron (with the tip itself
clean and well tinned), preferably
temperature controlled. If you haven’t
soldered before, practise with some
other components or hook-up wire
before soldering the board.
When you’re ready, apply only as
much heat from the iron as necessary
to make the solder flow evenly around
the resistor lead, securing it to the pad
underneath. By the way, make sure the
solder you use is intended for electronics applications. The solder you buy at
your local hardware store is probably
not suitable – it often contains flux
which is corrosive.
Having successfully soldered the
resistors, now try the five LEDs. These
are polarised devices – if they are inserted back to front they won’t work!
Notice how the LEDs have one flat side
on them? This marks the cathode (or
negative side), usually identified with
the letter “K”.
The flat sides of the LEDs ALL go
towards the centre of the PC board.
Also, there are extra pairs of holes on
the board for different components
which we don’t use here. Make sure
you get the two leads from each LED
into the right holes and the right way
around!
Incidentally, you may be wondering
why we use a “K” for cathode and
not a “C”? Two reasons: transistors,
as you may know, have three leads –
the emitter, base and collector (or E,B
and C). Using “C” for a cathode might
confuse it with a “C” for collector!
Secondly, the German word for cathode is kathode – so we use a K instead
of a C. This applies to all diodes, not
just LEDs (which is short for Light
Emitting Diode).
We’re going to leave the integrated
circuit (or IC) until last but there is
Use the photograph, component overlay and PC board pattern to help you build any version of The Spinner. The PC board
pattern above is as seen looking at the back of the board while the component overlay above that again is as seen if you
had X-ray vision and could see the copper tracks through the board from the component side.
34 Silicon Chip
Side-on view of the acrylic battery
holder which doubles as a handle.
The 3.5mm plug emerging from
the right end supplies power and
is also the axis on which the PC
board turns. This, and the trigger
wire, can be clearly seen in the
end-on shot at right.
no reason why you cannot solder in
its 8-pin socket now. Note that the IC
has a notch in one end and so does the
socket. This allows you to work out
which is pin 1. With the IC (or socket)
held upright with the notch at the top,
pin 1 is always the top pin on the left
side. The pins then number down
the left side (in this case 1,2,3,4) and
then up the right side, 5,6,7,8 from the
bottom as you are holding it.
OK, put the IC aside for a while and
very carefully solder in the socket so
that its notch is towards the centre
of the board. Again, be very careful
– some of the very fine copper tracks
go between the IC socket pads. While
they are covered with a green solder
mask (which protects the tracks and
helps keep solder away) it is possible
to solder across the tracks.
We’ll ignore the trigger pick-up and
3.5mm socket for a moment and solder
in the small (0.1µF) ceramic capacitor
next to the IC socket and the 100µF
Another view of
the trigger wire
and its pickup,
this time in a
close-up photo
of the assembled
Spinner.
electrolytic capacitor on the other
side of where the socket will mount.
You will note from the photographs
that this capacitor is lying on its side.
It’s not vital that this is done but laying
it over like this reduces the overall
height of the PC board, making it less
likely to snag or catch anything else
while spinning.
What is important is the polarity: electrolytic capacitors must be
connected the right way around,
otherwise they can actually explode,
spreading gunk far and wide (and it’s
not good stuff to get in your eyes!).
This may not happen immediately
but it will happen.
Electrolytic capacitors normally
have a stripe down one side in which
there are “–” (minus) symbols. The
lead closest to this is the negative
lead. The other lead is obviously the
positive lead (+) and on some PC
boards you might find only a + symbol.
This PC board fortunately has both +
and – identified so it’s even harder to
make a mistake.
The final component to solder in
is the 3.5mm socket. This mounts
through the PC board from the component side with a nut securing it in
place on the copper side. However,
that’s not all that’s required: you also
need to connect two of the three terminals on the socket to the PC board.
The easiest way to do this is use
some short lengths of wire which
you’ve cut off resistor or capacitor
leads (often called pigtails). These
simply solder between the socket
terminals and the PC board below.
Note though which way around the
socket goes. It has two terminals on
one side and one on the other – the
two terminal side faces towards the
IC socket.
The terminal closest to the PC board
(on the two terminal side of the socket)
and the single terminal on the other
side are the ones to connect to the
Parts List – Spinner Message Stick
1 PC board, 285 x 14mm, coded SpinStick V1.0
1 3.5mm mono phono socket, chassis mounting
1 3.5mm mono phono line plug (no cover)
1 8-pin DIL IC socket
3 mini pushbutton SPST momentary contact switches, PC
mounting (2 only required for spell or message versions)*
Semiconductors
1 12C509A PIC micro, programmed in one of three ways*
5 ultrabright red LEDs, 5mm
Capacitors
1 100µF 16VW PC mounting electrolytic
1 0.1µF ceramic
Resistors (1/10W, 5%)
5 100Ω (brown-black-brown-gold)
Miscellaneous
1 clear acrylic tube, 133mm long, 38mm OD with end-caps
1 8mm length stiff solderable wire for trigger (eg, bronze)*
1 30mm length stiff tinned copper wire*
1 4xAA battery holder (flat style)
4 AA batteries
*SEE TEXT
August 2000 35
board. You don’t need to solder the
third terminal because this is actually
a switched terminal, disconnected
when a 3.5mm plug is inserted.
We said that the socket was the
final component, which is strictly
true. But we still need to solder in
the trigger “pickup”, a short length
of heavier-gauge tinned copper wire.
Using resistor or capacitor pigtails here
would be futile because they would
bend too easily and so not make reliable contact.
You need to have about 7mm of
wire protruding from the copper side
of the board. We used a length of wire
a bit over 10mm with the remainder
protruding from the top (component)
side of the board. This can be used as
a test point later on to check triggering.
The wire we used was a tight fit in
the PC board hole – again, this adds
strength to the pickup. You will note
from the component overlay that the
mounting point is closest to pin 1 of
the IC. Once soldered in, we bent the
wire towards pin 8 at about a 45° angle.
This can be adjusted later to ensure a
contact is made.
Finally, carefully insert the IC into
its socket, making sure the notched
end in the IC matches the notched
end of the socket and that all eight
pins correctly mate with their socket
contacts.
The “handle”
The other section of the Spinner is
the acrylic handle, which contains the
batteries (4 x AA in a battery holder)
and houses the 3.5mm plug on which
the PC board spins. This plug mounts
through one of the end caps in the
exact centre.
Alongside is a loop of tinned
hookup wire which lies flat across
the end cap and is connected to the
negative battery lead. This is of course
what the trigger contact “wipes” over
each rotation, triggering the message.
Start assembly of this section by
finding the exact centre of the end-cap
with all of the holes in it (the other end
cap is plain). Drill a 5mm hole in this
end cap. The 3.5mm plug, without its
plastic cover, screws into this cap from
the outside.
There is a thread on the 3.5mm plug
which will tap into the plastic of the
36 Silicon Chip
the two ends together and solder them
to the negative battery lead/3.5mm
plug body terminal.
Push the other end-cap onto the
acrylic tube, slide the battery connector (with four AA cells) in the other
end (it’s a tight fit) and finally push
the end-cap and 3.5mm plug assembly
onto the tube.
That completes the assembly – all
that remains is setting the trigger wire
and checking that it works.
Finishing off
end-cap making it a snug fit but for
security, once all soldering is done,
a dob of glue (contact adhesive or
similar) over the back of the plug will
help hold it in place.
Solder the red lead from the battery
holder to the centre pin terminal of the
3.5mm plug and the black lead to the
body terminal.
Next, pass a length of tinned copper
wire through one of the holes in the
end-cap, wrap it over the edge, across
the front back and through the same
hole. Fashion this right into the edges
of the cap with fine-nose pliers. Solder
Push the Spinner PC board 3.5mm
socket all the way onto the 3.5mm
plug on the handle. Angle the trigger
wire until it just clears the surface of
the end cap but hits the tinned copper
wire each time it passes over it. There
is enough spring in the trigger wire to
ride over the tinned copper wire and
return to the same place.
(Obviously, you can only turn the
Spinner one way because turning it
backward – ie, anticlockwise – will
cause the trigger wire to snag).
As you make the adjustment, you
should find the LEDs flash each time
the trigger wire contacts the wire on
the end cap. If it does, your Spinner
should be working properly.
Now hold the handle firmly with
the Spinner facing you and give the
PC board a good flick in the clockwise
direction (you’ll get the best spin by
flicking as close as you can to the
handle.
You should be able to read the message displayed even though you can’t
see the PC board. Depending on the
version you’ve built, pressing the programming switches (as detailed above)
will change the displayed message up
or down or let you enter your own.
Now you’re ready to amaze your
SC
family and friends!
Where do you get it?
The Spinner was designed by 4D Systems Pty Ltd, who hold copyright on
the PC board, the design and on the program residing in the PIC.
A complete kit of parts is available from 4D Systems for $24.95 (including
GST) plus pack and post. Don’t forget to specify which type of Spinner you want.
Contact 4D Systems at Suite 2, 3-5 Station Road, Auburn NSW 2144. Phone
(02) 9649 5065; fax (02) 9649 4324
Email: sales<at>4dsystems.com.au Web Site: www.4dsystems.com.au
* Atilla Aknar is Managing Director of 4D Systems Pty Ltd.
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$729.00 ~ with 12 & 240V charger
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Complete with a 500 watt Inverter
$1349.00 ~ with 12 & 240V charger
Equipment
Accessories
* USB to SCSI - $185.00
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* USB Modem - $99.00
* USB Joystick - $55.00
* USB Mouse - $15.00
and more !
Compact 23CM AC/DC
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* 5 port HUB 10Mbs
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- $8.95
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Media Converters - Transceivers etc.
Corperate Price Program Available
Contact Jeff now for details.
TV/VCR Combo
Line recording,
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288W x 315H x 232D
Only $699
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August 2000 37
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
It doesn’t pay to be too smug
It sure doesn’t pay to be too smug, not even in
one’s own mind. As sure as a job looks like a
snack, it’ll turn out to be sour, particularly
when older sets are involved. That’s just what
happened with one job this month and then
there was a brilliant restoration job that
bounced!
Despite my never ending bad
experiences with sets over 10 years
old, I never seem to learn my lesson.
Is it because one is reluctant not to
use the knowledge learned over the
decade or is it because I play down
the inherent problems of equipment
that’s generally past its use by date?
Which ever it is, I find it hard to
go past a Philips KT3-A3 (CH285) as
I know it so well and it is a “technician-friendly” chassis. However, I find
it hard to admit that, 15 years later, the
sort of faults I am now encountering
are often new, as all the most likely
38 Silicon Chip
faults have already been fixed – it is
only now that other unusual parts are
breaking down.
I was in just this frame of mind
when I was faced with a challenge
from young Tim, a field technician for
a large opposition service organisation. He had encountered a set – covered by one of their service contracts
– which lived not far from the ocean.
The fault was no sound or picture
and the set was pulsating. They hadn’t
been able to solve the problem and he
asked if I would “take a look at it”. Not
wishing to show I was over the hill to
a young upstart, I foolishly accepted
the challenge.
Fortunately Tim had agreed to deliver the set to my workshop and leave
it with me – not that I minded, as I
was full of confidence in what I considered to be an old faithful and was
sure it would be all over in about 15
minutes. Actually, I was so confident
I really wanted him to hang around so
that I could show off but he had other
calls to attend to and was away before
I had the back off.
The thing that was most obvious
immediately was that it was very
corroded and, in the EHT section,
the tripler and the horizontal output
transformer had both been replaced
and silicone had been generously
applied everywhere. Despite this,
the first thing I did was unsolder the
tripler and switch on. Immediately,
the sound came on and I could hear
the horizontal timebase whistle. The
main HT was spot on at 129V.
Bullseye! Goodness me, what a
genius I am; what a piece of cake!
These and other conceited thoughts
raced through my mind as I fitted a
new tripler. I was reaching for words
like “legend” by the time I switched
the set back on only to find that the
fault was exactly the same. Oops! –
one instantly deflated ego.
Well, it’s not absolutely unknown
for brand new triplers to be crook (so
I told myself), so I fitted yet another.
The set continued to pulsate with the
tripler in circuit and operate “correctly” without it.
How could this be? Was it an excessive load problem or a lack of supply
current? I disconnected the EHT to the
final anode of the tube and unplugged
the CRT socket to eliminate a faulty
picture tube. I also checked the 300V
unregulated power source. Both were
OK. I felt it was unlikely to be the new
horizontal output transformer – unless
the wrong type had been fitted – but
even that was unlikely; after all, it had
been working.
Next, I unsoldered the focus lead
from the tripler, then disconnected the
remaining A (capacitor) and D (diode)
leads to the tripler. It was only when
the D lead was disconnected that the
set started to work – in fact, I even
had a colour picture! It wasn’t too
crash hot, with lines and a tendency
to “bloom”, but nevertheless the set
was working.
But what did this indicate? First, I
checked the copper tracks for continuity and corrosion in the feedback or
chassis side of the EHT overwind but
everything looked OK and the circuit
is quite simple. I then checked the
30V input to R3565 and the 15V on
the aquadag of the CRT. I also checked
the beam limiting connection to the
contrast control – R3440 and D6440
were both OK, as was the connection
to the east/west generator via R3473,
680Ω.
There wasn’t much else to check –
only four capacitors and two resistors.
A quick DC check showed that the
capacitors hadn’t gone leaky and I was
beginning to think that perhaps one
had changed its capacitance value.
Still, while I had the ohmmeter in my
hand, I decided to check the two 1MΩ
resistors (R3563 & R3564) – they may
have gone open circuit.
As it turned out, I needed to make
three or four measurements on these
two resistors (with them out of circuit)
before I could believe my eyes – they
both read 2.83kΩ! I initially thought
that my digital meter had gone on the
blink but it was working correctly.
How bizarre that not one but both
resistors had gone almost short circuit – from 1MΩ down to 3kΩ. How
could this be?
I fitted two new high-voltage resistors and resoldered the D lead which
restored a normal picture and fixed
the set. However, I found it hard to
believe that these two resistors could
behave in such a manner. Both resistors looked like the old-style IRH
type. I thought that perhaps salt spray
on the outside might be the cause but
even after washing them, they were
still low resistance.
Anyway, suitably chastened, I
humbly returned the set to Tim and
was discretely silent when it came
to crowing about the repair. The real
question is have I learnt anything
here? Probably not!
The NEC monitor
Owners of NEC monitors are gen-
Items Covered This Month
• Philips KT3-A3 TV Set.
• NEC JC-2002VM 5D Monitor.
• Brionvega TVC 9203 Stratos 2 TV
•
Set.
Sanyo VHRD-7770M VCR.
erally fairly serious computer users.
Certainly, these monitors enjoy a
reputation for excellent performance
and as a result, I am often asked to
fix them long after they are really
obsolete. So it was that I was asked
to repair a 9-year old 20-inch (48cm)
NEC Multisync 5D monitor, model JC
2002VM, which was dead.
The first major problem with NEC
monitors is the sheer quantity of metalwork that has to be removed before
one can gain access to the electronics.
However, I eventually reached the
power supply – a switchmode type
August 2000 39
Fig.1: part of the circuit for NEC Multisync 5D monitor. Transistors Q8A1 and Q8A2 are on the left, with IC8A1 to
their right and capacitor C8A6 above it. It took some time to discover why resistor R8A1 (on the base of Q8A1) was
burning out.
– to find power going in but nothing
coming out. But was this because
the load was short circuit or was the
failure in the supply itself?
DC measurements at the power supply’s K terminals quickly established
that there were no shorts on either
the 170V (K1), 85V (K2) or 24V (K3)
outlets, so that eliminated the short
cir
cuit theory. This meant that the
supply itself had to be cactus.
Being a quality product I was able to
acquire a copy of the service manual,
which is an impressively thick one,
giving an immense amount of detail,
including fault flow diagrams and
circuit descriptions. Unfortunately,
though, there wasn’t much on the
power supply.
The important thing it did tell me
was how to run the power supply
outside the set. This involved using a
dummy load and disconnecting PTC
TH601 in the degaussing circuit, to
avoid damaging things further.
Getting at the components on the
power supply board meant not only
removing it from the monitor but also
removing the heatsink surrounding it.
Anyway, the inside all looked fairly
conventional and I started by checking
the electros, most of which turned
out to be very leaky, their electrolyte
spilling onto the PC board. The worst
one was C631 on the 24V rail. I re
placed these and also checked any
high-value resistors.
Apart from the odd suspicious joint,
everything else looked in order and
I felt confident that it would work
correctly back in the monitor.
Alas, it wasn’t to be – the set was
still completely dead with no output
from the K terminals. As everything
40 Silicon Chip
else had looked OK on the power
supply, the most likely thing left was
IC607 (SI-9509).
I looked in the service manual for
the spare part number but there wasn’t
one. Alarm bells began to ring when
I realised that the only part number
listed was for the entire power supply
assembly.
I phoned NEC to be told there were
never any spare parts available for the
power supply and even the power
supply itself was no longer available,
new or exchange. I then tried various
other IC suppliers for the SI-9509 but
had no luck with any of them.
It was looking as though the whole
monitor was destined for land fill.
However, having already spent time
and money on this project, I was
reluctant to leave it at that and so I
decided to attack it more diligently.
I removed the PTC (TH601), fitted
a 100W globe on the 170V rail with
a meter, connected a Variac to the
bridge rectifier (D611) and wound the
voltage up.
I noticed that, from about 120V up,
the output was pulsating slowly but
right up to full output. I wasn’t certain whether all the rails had to have
dummy loads – especially the 24V
and 85V rails – but this is where I had
a break. When I connected a dummy
load to the 24V rail, there was initially
no output.
As mentioned earlier, to get to the
components it is necessary to remove
a large heatsink/cover which is supported by three other heatsinks, with
devices bolted onto them. One of the
end heatsinks carries only a diode
(D612). This a rather strange package,
because it appears to be a three legged
diode; something of a contradiction
in terms.
In fact, it is two diodes with their
cathodes tied together but with
separate anode connections, thus
accounting for the three legs. As used
here, the two anodes are connected
together externally, making it simply
two diodes in parallel.
The above physical arrangement
puts a lot of strain on the device’s three
legs, when the large superstructure is
removed. In the process of working
on it, I had fractured the middle leg.
After resoldering it and carefully reassembling the heatsink cover, I turned
the variac up and found that all the
outputs reached their correct levels.
Now it was time to put it back in
the monitor and fire it up. This time
I had a result. The green power LED
lit on the front control panel and EHT
noises could be heard but even with
a computer connected there was still
no picture.
Closer examination revealed that
none of the picture tube heaters were
alight. These are powered by 6V from
the video board at the rear of the
monitor which, when measured, was
down to only a few volts. Following
the circuit, this low voltage level re
mained right through to transistor
Q8A7 (2SK701) and to the emitter of
Q8A1 (2SD882). However, the collector of Q8A1 was correct at 24V and it
didn’t take a mental giant to suspect
resistor R8A1 (33Ω) to the base of
Q8A1, which turned out be cooked
and open circuit (ie, these was no base
drive to Q8A1).
Replacing this resistor restored the
picture and I pronounced the monitor
problem solved. Of course, I checked
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August 2000 41
all the rails before finally replacing all
the metal screening.
My theory was that the failure of
C631 and other capacitors put a lot of
stress on the 24V rail, causing R8A1
to fail. In any case, it was very satisfying to save this otherwise excellent
monitor from the tip.
The set bounces
At least, that was how I felt for the
next couple of weeks. Then I was
embarrassed by being recalled to this
same monitor. I had soak tested the
machine for several days after the
repair and I was quite satisfied that
everything had been fixed. But apparently not and the owner was now
complaining loudly of the same fault.
According to the owner, he hadn’t
reinstalled the monitor for a couple of
weeks after collecting it and this was
the reason why he hadn’t complained
earlier. Anyway, when I got it back in
the workshop, I noticed that the green
power LED remained on. Also, there
was still EHT but no heater filaments.
I immediately went back to resistor
R8A1, which was burnt out again. I
42 Silicon Chip
checked everywhere for a short circuit
but none was to be found. Replacing
the resistor restored the picture but
the real mystery remained.
I carefully checked the unit for
solder dags or loose wires that might
be causing a short but could find
nothing. The replacement resistor I
had fitted was of a higher wattage than
the original and it had still cooked,
yet all the voltage rails were spot on
(24V, 12V and 6V). I left it for a few
hours and then, as I had to go out, I
switched it off.
The phone rang at that point and
my engagement was postponed, as it
turned out to be inconvenient for my
client. I went back to the monitor and
switched it on. Immediately the resistor started to smoke and the voltmeter
monitoring the 12V rail started to dip.
I turned it off quick-smart.
Once again, I closely examined both
the CRT board and the video board but
there were no signs of stress or a measurable short circuit anywhere. It was
strange – sometimes the rail would be
fine and sometimes the resistor would
start to get very hot.
This went on for a few days, during
which I removed the CRT socket panel
and resoldered any suspicious joints.
Eventually, I realised that this was
not the area where the trouble was,
because the resistor would sometimes
smoke even with the board totally
disconnected. In fact, it would do it
with everything disconnected from it
except the input X plug.
I suppose I should have worked this
out sooner than I did but it is always
easy in hindsight.
I did notice that zener diode
ZD8A3 was slightly discoloured and
I couldn’t quite figure out why that
should be, as it appeared to be in an
unaffected part of the circuit which
involved minimal current and voltage.
Finally the penny dropped. Ahh,
Ahh! – an electrolytic, C8A6, sits right
above it and was leaking electrolyte
onto it. C8A6, C8A7 and C8E1 were all
black Rubycon electrolytic capacitors
rated at 470µF 35V and all were leaking badly underneath. All the other
electros were of a different brand and
showed no signs of leakage.
Zener diode ZD8A3 is supposed
to peg the voltage on pin 5 of IC8A1,
the output of which (pin 7) drives
the base of Q8A2. Q8A2’s collector,
in turn, drives the base of Q8A1 and
resistor R8A1.
Which was where we came in!
Cleaning up and replacing these
three capacitors finally fixed the problem properly and hopefully this will
be the last I will hear of it.
As I said at the beginning, “It
doesn’t pay to be smug.”
Whatsa matter you?
Brian who? When Mario Roberto
started talking about Brian Vega in
his strong Italian accent, I felt sure he
was referring to a friend. As it turned
out, his “friend” was an expensive,
top-of-the-range, Italian-made 71cm
Brion
vega TVC 9203 Stratos 2 TV
receiver, which no longer worked.
Not only was the set broken but
the parts and service manual were
no longer available and the company
was defunct. He was very overwrought
and I sympathetically agreed to have
a look.
I attacked it in two ways. First, I
got onto the Internet and searched
for the brand. After a lot of surfing, I
eventually had a reply from Electronic
Service S.N.C. who very kindly sent
me a copy of the circuit.
Second, I looked inside the set and
noticed that it looked very much like
a Thomson in its construction and
layout. I initially spent some considerable time resoldering suspect joints
but eventually came to the conclusion
that the horizontal output transformer (TR2) was faulty. Transistor T15
(BU508A) was getting very hot, there
was severe ringing on waveform 19
at its collector and the 148V rail was
very low.
The next problem was replacing
it. The part number was 523 99 0711
but pursuing it seemed to be a futile
exercise as the manufacturer no longer
existed. To my surprise, quoting this
part number helped my parts wholesaler come up with a Siemens equival
ent designated D210/37 (it’s also
similar to the HR6288 or EHT6288 as
in Nokia/ITT sets).
And that was the answer. I was wellpleased that I had solved this problem
and made its owner very happy. I just
hope that I’m not doomed to become
the local Brionvega “expert” – hopefully, there is only one such set in my
vicinity.
Actually, the set did make a reappearance some months later when it
came in with a line across the screen.
This time, the problem had to be
in the vertical timebase, which is
almost completely centred on IC5. I
measured 29V and 200V feeding the IC
but there was no output to the vertical
deflection yoke.
I replaced the IC and checked all
the diodes but to no avail. It was
about this time that I started to pay
attention to transistors T11 (BD236)
and T12 (BC238B) and wondered
what they did.
Well, I’m still wondering but I
checked them anyway and though
the transistors were OK, R110 (150kΩ)
was high, causing both T12 and T11 to
be switched off. This in turn deprived
pin 14 of its 29V rail.
Replacing R110 fixed the fault and
restored the vertical output. But why?
– is this circuit an attempt to prevent
picture blooming and compensate for
changes in voltage rails? Your guess
is as good as mine.
A bizarre problem
I had a bizarre problem with a
August 2000 43
Sanyo VHRD-7770M VCR of Middle
East extraction, which meant it was
a multi-system model (PAL/NTSC/
SECAM) using a P88/89 mecha-deck.
The initial problem was that the set
was just dead. A quick examination
of the power supply showed it was
time for a complete replacement of
all the electros, as most were leaking. Not unreasonably, one could be
forgiven for thinking that that would
fix it all up.
Well, it nearly did. The set now
powered up but then closed down,
leaving the display partially on with
most characters either dim or not
showing at all and displaying four
zeros and the date.
It was then that I noticed that if
the system was moved off the AUTO
position to SECAM, it would actually
load a tape and even wrap it around
the drum but neither the capstan nor
the drum motors would work. This
meant that there were no functions
other than eject.
I didn’t have the appropriate service manual for this model but was
working from manuals for similar
models – or nearly similar. I felt that
the fault involved a mechanical timing
problem involving the ejector, mode
switch and loading motor. I replaced
the belts and checked the gear timing very carefully but wasn’t getting
anywhere.
It was while measuring voltages
on this module that I noticed that the
switched 5V rail dropped to only 1.2V
in the auto mode. Finally, I measured
Q5402 (2SC44 84s) and found that it
was virtually short circuit. Replacing
it fixed the problem.
It appears that, in the AUTO mode,
additional power hungry circuits
brought on-line caused the 5V rail to
SC
drop significantly.
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08-00
Loudspeaker protector
and fan controller for
the Ultra-LD amplifier
This simple project will save your valuable
loudspeakers if a fault occurs in the output
stages of the Ultra-LD Stereo Amplifier. As a
bonus, it includes fan control so that the fan
only runs when necessary.
By PETER SMITH & LEO SIMPSON
This loudspeaker and fan controller has been specifically designed to
suit the Ultra-LD 100W per channel
amplifier de
scribed in the March
and May 2000 issues. Not only does
it provide muting at switch-on and
switch-off to prevent any thumps
54 Silicon Chip
from the loudspeakers, it also protects
the loudspeakers against catastrophic
failure in the amplifier. In addition, it
provides temperature control for the
fan-cooled heatsink, switching the fan
on if the heatsink temperature rises
above 60°C.
However, while the circuit has been
specifically designed to suit the above
amplifier, it can be used to mute and
protect the loudspeakers in other amplifiers and also provide fan switching
if that is required.
This is not the first loudspeaker
protector we have published as we
featured similar designs in April & October 1997. However, this latest design
provides two methods of temperature
sensing for the fan control as well as a
temperature cutout for the speakers, if
the heatsink rises above 80°C.
Why you need protection
By the far the biggest reason for
incorporating speaker protection into
Fig.1: each channel of the amplifier is connected to one of the moving contacts
of the double-pole relay and is monitored for DC faults by a triplet of transistors,
Q1, Q2 & Q3 for the left channel and Q4, Q5 & Q6 for the right channel. Two
methods of temperature sensing for the fan control are shown. The section in the
bottom lefthand corner of the circuit shows the optional thermistor temperature
sensing, using an LM393 comparator.
any amplifier is for insurance – to
save money in the case of a serious
amplifier fault. For example, in the
Ultra-LD amplifier, the main supply
rails are ±55V DC. If one of the output
transistors fails it means that more
than 50V DC will be applied to the
speaker’s voice coil. For a nominal
8Ω speaker the voice coil will have a
DC resistance of around 6Ω and so the
total power dissipation will be around
400W until the supply fuse blows.
But maybe the fuse won’t blow.
Either way, the speaker is likely to be
history. On the one hand, the huge DC
power applied is likely to push the
voice coil right out of the gap, damaging the voice coil and suspension
in the process. But a worse scenario
is if the on-board supply fuse doesn’t
immediately blow – a strong possibility since a current of around 8.5A
may not blow a 5A fuse straight away.
If the fuse doesn’t blow straight
away, there is a strong possibility
that the voice coil will immediately
become red-hot and set fire to the
speaker cone material. Now we are
really in trouble because the acetate
filling material in the enclosure and
the grille fabric can also catch fire and
then generate huge quantities of acrid
black smoke.
Don’t think this can’t happen. It
has happened before and will happen
again to some unsuspecting owner of
high-power audio equipment. Stereo
systems do fail and they can cause
house fires. That is why they should
not be left on for long periods of time,
especially if no-one is present to turn
them off if a fault does occur.
OK, we have established the risk
associated with any audio power
amplifier of more than about 40W
per channel. The way to avoid the
problem is to build a loudspeaker
protector like the one featured here.
Apart from the fire insurance angle,
the circuit will mute any thumps and
pops which occur when you turn your
amplifier on and off and it does the
August 2000 55
The 80°C thermal switch is attached to the side of heatsink using self-tapping
screws. A second 60°C thermal switch (for the fan) can be mounted next to it if
you elect not to use a thermistor temperature sensor.
fan control which we’ll come to later.
The whole circuit fits onto a PC
board measuring 124 x 60.5mm and
includes a DPDT relay with 10A contacts, plus a 3-terminal regulator on
a finned U-shape heatsink.
Fig.1 shows the complete circuit.
On the lefthand side of the circuit you
will notice that each channel of the
amplifier to be protected is connected
to one of the moving contacts of the
double-pole relay and then out to the
speaker terminals. Each channel of
the amplifier is also monitored for DC
faults by a triplet of transistors, Q1,
Q2 & Q3 for the left channel and Q4,
Q5 & Q6 for the right channel.
For the sake of simplicity, we’ll just
talk about the left channel since the
identical process occurs for the right
channel. Let’s see how the triplet
of transistors operate together. The
active signal from the amplifier’s left
channel is fed via a low-pass filter
consisting of the 22kΩ resistors and
two 47µF BP (bipolar or non-polarised– NP) electrolytic capacitors.
The filter network removes any audio
frequencies and just leaves DC to be
monitored by the three transistors.
This is because we don’t want
audio signals to trip the protection
circuit in any way. The line from
the low pass filter is connected to
the emitter of Q1 and the base of Q3.
Q1 monitors for negative DC signals
while Q3 monitors for positive DC
signals.
If a DC signal of more than +0.6V is
present, Q3 will turn on. Similarly, if
a signal of more than -0.6V (ie, neg56 Silicon Chip
ative voltage) is present, the emitter
of Q1 will be pulled low, and so Q1
will turn on and it will turn on Q2.
Both Q2 & Q3 have a common
56kΩ collector load resistor and this
normally feeds base current to Q7. Q7
feeds base current to Q8 and so both
these transistors and the relay are on.
But if Q1 or Q3 are turned on by an
amplifier fault condition, the base
current for Q7 is shunted away and
so Q7, Q8 and the relay are turned off,
disconnecting the speakers.
As noted above, Q4, Q5 and Q6 do
exactly the same monitoring for the
right channel of the amplifier and
they switch Q7, Q8 and the relay in
exactly the same way.
Heavy duty relay
The relay selected for the job has
contacts rated at 10A and there are
several reasons for this. First, and
most important, we want the contact
resistance in the relay to be as low
as possible so that it has negligible
effect on the amplifier performance,
in respect of distortion, damping
factor and so on.
Second, the relay contacts have to
pass and break the heavy DC currents
which would otherwise flow through
the loudspeaker if a fault ever occurs
in the amplifier. However, we don’t
merely use the relay to disconnect
the amplifier’s output from the loudspeakers. If we simply did this, there
is a fair chance that the contacts
would just arc across and the heavy
DC current might continue to flow
through the loudspeaker.
That might seem unlikely but
when you have a heavy DC current
and a high DC voltage pushing it
along, it can be quite hard to break
the circuit. That is why the moving
contacts of the relay are shorted to
the loudspeaker ground lines via the
“unused” contacts. By shorting the
moving contacts of the relay to the
loudspeaker ground lines, the arc
current is diverted to chassis and the
fuses will blow if the arc still persists.
Muting delay
So far we have described the protection function of the circuit. Now
we’ll look at the muting function, to
prevent thumps at switch-on. This is
achieved with resistors R1, R3 and
the 220µF capacitor C1. When power
is first applied, C1 is discharged and
so no base current can flow to Q7 via
56kΩ resistor R1. C1 then charges
via the 220kΩ resistor R3 and after
three seconds or thereabouts, enough
voltage is present to allow base
current to pass via R1 to Q7. It
then turns on Q8 and the relay
to connect the loudspeakers.
If power is removed from
the protection circuit, the relay
opens within less than half a
second and this prevents any
turn-off thump being heard.
Fan control
Fig.2: the speaker protection board is
powered from the 35V secondary
wind-ings on the Ultra-LD amplifier’s
power transformer.
We have provided two methods of temperature sensing
for the fan control and both
are shown on the circuit. The
section in the bottom lefthand
corner of the circuit shows the
optional thermis
tor temperature sensing, using an LM393
The leads of the thermistor are insulated with heatshrink tubing. It is then slid into a channel in the TO-220 heatsink
clip, which holds it firmly in place.
The thermistor/heatsink clip assembly is clipped onto one the fins of the large tunnel heatsink, as shown here. Be
careful not to damage the thermistor body during this procedure.
comparator. But first we’ll talk about
the simple version of the circuit
which involves a 60°C thermal cutout
TH1 and transistor Q9. The thermal
cutout is mounted on the tunnel
heatsink, preferably somewhere near
the centre.
The thermal cutout has a set of normally closed contacts but when the
temperature rises above 60°C, they
open and this allows the associated
2kΩ resistor to turn on transistor Q9
and thereby run the fan. It is fed via
a 33Ω 5W resistor so it does not run
at full speed but still pumps a fair
amount of air through the tunnel
heatsink.
When the heatsink temperature
cools down to around 40°C, the thermal cutout will close again and the
fan will be switched off. Note that 40
degrees C is relatively cool so the fan
will probably run for a long time and
on a hot day would continue to run
until the amplifier was switched off.
While the thermal cutout has the
virtue of simplicity, its relatively
wide hysteresis (ie, difference between switch-on and switch-off
temperatures) means that once the
fan comes on, it may not turn off until
the amplifier is switched off.
Thermistor circuit
As an alternative to the thermal
switch, we have provided the optional thermistor circuit mentioned
above. This uses a negative temperature coefficient (NTC) bead thermistor
in a comparator circuit based on an
LM393, IC1. Pin 2 is connected to
the thermistor (RT1) while pin 3 is
connected to trimpot VR1. Naturally, the thermistor is mounted on the
tunnel heatsink.
At room temperatures, trimpot
VR1 will be set so that the voltage
at pin 3 is below that at pin 2 and so
the output at pin 1 will be low. This
means that transistor Q9 will be off
and the fan is not running.
When the heatsink temperature
rises, the resistance of the thermistor
goes low and at some point pin 2 will
be pulled below pin 3 of IC1. This will
cause pin 1 to go high (or actually,
the open-collector transistor inside
IC1 to turn off) and allow Q9 to turn
on and run the fan.
The 1MΩ positive feedback resistor
between pins 1 & 3 of IC1 ensures a
degree of hysteresis so that the fan
does not cycle on and off repeatedly.
We suggest that VR1 be set to turn on
the fan for heatsink temperatures of
around 55-60°C. We’ll discuss that
setting later on in the article.
Finally, there is another thermal
cutout in the circuit and that is in
series with the base of Q8, the transistor controlling the relay. This second
thermal cutout is a failsafe device so
that if the amplifier is overheating due
to a serious overload or a failure of the
fan circuit, the relay will be turned
off to disconnect the loudspeakers.
Power supply
Deriving a low-voltage supply
from that of the Ultra-LD Amplifier
presents a problem because of the
August 2000 57
The loudspeaker protection module was mounted inside the disk drive cage of
the Ultra-LD Amplifier, adjacent to the power amplifier module. Note that the
heatsink gets quite hot, so make sure it goes towards the top.
relatively high AC voltage from the
transformer secondary and the need
to provide a total current of around
200mA at 12V to power the fan and relay. Our solution is to connect diodes
D1 & D2 to the 35V secondary windings (as shown in Fig.2) and then pass
the full-wave rectified DC from the
470µF capacitor via a 33Ω 5W resistor
to the input of an LM317HVT high
voltage 3-terminal regulator, REG1.
This provides a regulated 11.7V to
power the speaker protection circuit.
PC board assembly
All the parts are mounted on a PC
board measuring 124 x 60.5mm and
coded 01108001. The wiring diagram
is shown in Fig.3 and it shows both
temperature measurement options; ie,
thermal cutout TH1 and the optional
thermistor, RT1.
If you are going to use thermal cutout TH1, you can leave out IC1, VR1,
RT1 and the associated resistors apart
from the 2kΩ resistor which supplies
base current to Q9.
Mount the PC pins first and make
sure they are a tight fit in their holes
before they are soldered. Then fit
the links (these must be done before
the two wirewound resistors are in
stalled). Most of the resistors and diodes are mounted vertically (end-on)
to save space. Mount them as shown
in the diagram of Fig.3.
In each case, do not mount the
end-on diodes and resistors so that
they are right down on the board; you
should have a lead length of about
2-3mm above the board to make sure
the component is not overheated
while being soldered. The two 33Ω
5W wirewound resistors should
be mounted so that they are about
2-3mm above the board, to allow
cooling.
The four 47µF electrolytic capacitors can go in either way around since
they are non-polarised (BP or NP).
The other electrolytics are polarised
and must be inserted the correct way
around.
Next, insert the IC and the transistors and make sure you put the correct
one in each spot.
The relay is intended for mounting
in a socket but we have not used a
socket in this case, because it takes up
more space on the board and it will be
an extra source of contact resistance
which we particularly want to avoid.
Therefore the relay is mounted by
soldering short lengths of stout (say
1mm) tinned copper wire to each
relay pin. These wire leads are then
pushed through the relay mounting
holes in the PC board and soldered.
Alternatively, if you are supplied
with a PC board which has slotted
holes for the relay, you can solder it
in directly.
The 3-terminal regulator is mounted on a U-shaped heatsink using a
standard insulating kit (see Fig.3)
This assembly is then attached to the
PC board with two M3 screws, nuts
and washers, and the regulator leads
soldered.
Installation
When the PC board is complete,
check your work carefully. If you
Resistor Colour Codes
No.
1
1
1
2
4
3
2
1
1
2
2
58 Silicon Chip
Value
1MΩ
220kΩ
68kΩ
56kΩ
22kΩ
10kΩ
2kΩ
1.5kΩ
240Ω
22kΩ
33Ω 5W
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black green brown
red red yellow brown
blue grey orange brown
green blue orange brown
red red orange brown
brown black orange brown
red black red brown
brown green red brown
red yellow brown brown
red red orange brown
not applicable
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black yellow brown
red red black orange brown
blue grey black red brown
green blue black red brown
red red black red brown
brown black black red brown
red black black brown brown
brown green black brown brown
red yellow black black brown
red red black red brown
not applicable
56k
1.5k
56k
10k
HEATSINK
TH2
80C
VR1
50k
10k
1M
220k
Q5
68k
Q9
2k
10k
220F 220F 10F
0.1F
Q7
IC1 A
LM393 D3
K
1
Q2
Q4
470F
Q1
Q6
33
5W
A
33
5W
K
NOTE: CAPACITORS MARKED "BP" ARE BIPOLAR
47F
BP
47F
BP
22k
22k
22k
22k
Q8
D2
LED1
FRONT PANEL
POWER LED
REG1
LM317HVT
240
K
A
2k
D1
Q3
K
Fig.3: both temperature sensing options are shown on the wiring diagram. If you are
using thermistor TH1, you can omit IC1, VR1, RT1 and the associated resistors apart
from the 2kΩ resistor which supplies base current to Q9.
TO
LEFT
SPEAKER
47F
BP
RLY1
22k 1W
_
22k 1W
+
FROM
LEFT
AMP
FROM
RIGHT
AMP
TO
RIGHT
_ SPEAKER
+
47F
BP
+
_
+
_
A
Parts List
M3 x 10mm
SCREW
HEATSINK
INSULATING
PAD
PLAIN
WASHER
INSULATING
BUSH
REG1 MOUNTING DETAILS
TO
12V DC
FAN
RT1
TH1
60C
LM317
0V
FROM T1
SECONDARY
35V
35V
M3 NUT
HEATSINK
_
+
HEATSINK
have a DC power supply capable of
around 15-20V then you can do some
initial checks which we describe in
the setup procedure below. Your DC
supply can be connected to the input
of the 3-terminal regulator. Failing
that, your next step is to install the
board in the amplifier case. You can
see from the photos how we mounted
the prototype.
Quite a lot of wiring is involved in
the installation. You will need to run
three wires from the 35V transformer
secondary windings, two wires to
the 12V fan and another two pairs of
wires to the thermal cutouts (TH1 &
1 PC board, code 01108001, 60.5
x 124mm
1 10A 240VAC DPDT power relay
(Jaycar SY-4065)
1 Universal “U” heatsink (Jaycar
HH-8511)
1 TO-220 clip-on heatsink to
mount thermistor (Jaycar
HH-8504)
1 TO-220 insulating bush and
washer
16 PC stakes
9 M3 x 6mm screws
2 M3 x 10mm screws
3 M3 nuts
7 M3 flat washers
4 M3 x 10mm tapped spacers
1 50kΩ horizontal trimpot (VR1)
1 Thermal circuit breaker, 80°C,
normally closed (TH2)
(Altronics S-5610)
1 Thermal circuit breaker, 60°C,
normally closed (TH1) (Jaycar
ST-3821, Altronics S-5600)
1 NTC thermistor, 100kΩ <at> 25°C
(RT1) (DSE R 1797)
Wire and cable
200mm length of 0.8mm tinned
copper wire; hook-up wire;
heavy-duty speaker wire
Semiconductors
3 1N4004 1A 400V diodes
(D1-D3)
1 LM317HVT high voltage
adjustable regulator (REG1)
1 LM393 dual comparator (IC1)
5 BC547 NPN transistors (Q1,
Q3, Q4, Q6, Q7)
2 BC557 PNP transistors (Q2,Q5)
1 BC327 PNP transistor (Q8)
1 BC337 NPN transistor (Q9)
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 1MΩ
3 10kΩ
1 220kΩ
2 2kΩ
1 68kΩ
1 1.5kΩ
2 56kΩ
1 240Ω
4 22kΩ
2 33Ω 5W
2 22kΩ 1W
Capacitors
1 470µF 63VW PC electrolytic
2 220µF 16VW PC electrolytic
4 47µF 50VW non-polarised PC
electrolytic
1 10µF 63VW PC electrolytic
1 0.1µF 63VW MKT polyester
Miscellaneous
Heatsink compound.
August 2000 59
+11.7V is present at pin 8 of
IC1, at the emitter of Q8 and the
collector of Q9. Initially the fan
should be off. The relay should
operate about three seconds after
turn-on. When the relay is closed,
LED1 should be alight.
To check that the fault protection works, connect a 1.5V battery
to the left and right channel inputs on the protection PC board.
In each case the relay should
open immediately, indicating that
the protection circuit is working
correctly.
Fig.4: this is the actual size artwork for the PC board. Check your board
carefully before installing any of the parts.
TH2). By the way, the wires to TH2
also connect the front panel LED, as
shown on Fig.3.
You also need to run the heavy
cabling from the amplifier outputs
and to the loudspeaker terminals.
Since so much extra speaker wiring is
required you must use heavy cabling
such as 2 x 79/02mm speaker cable
(or heavier) to avoid power losses and
any reduction in amplifier damping
factor.
However, do not make the speaker
cable connections to the PC board
until initial checks are done. We’ll
come to these in a moment.
If you are using the bi-metallic thermal cutouts you will need to mount
them somewhere near the centre of
the tunnel heatsink. Our photo shows
just one thermal cutout (TH2).
The thermistor option is actually
easier because you can just use a
TO-220 clip-on heatsink (Jaycar HH8504) to mount the thermistor. We
have a series of photos showing how
the leads of the thermistor are individually sleeved and then a TO-220
clip is used to secure the thermistor to
one of the fins of the tunnel heatsink.
Setting up
With all of the wiring complete,
apart from the speaker cabling, it
is time to power up the protection
board. First check that the output of
the 3-terminal regulator is around
+11.7V. You can also check that
Temperature setting
Ideally, VR1 should be set so
that the fan cuts in at around
55-60°C. To do this setting you need
a thermom
eter which will read to
100°C. Our suggestion is to boil some
water in a jug and then add it slowly
to a small container of water while
stirring it with the thermometer. As
it comes up to 60°C, you can adjust
VR1 to turn the fan on.
Oh, you will of course have to
immerse the thermistor in the water
container for this adjustment. The
thermistor and its leads should be
sealed into a small plastic bag or
plastic shrink-wrap.
Once you are satisfied with the
adjustment of VR1, you can clip the
thermistor back onto the heatsink fin,
connect the loudspeaker cables and
SC
the system is ready to roll.
Thumps In The Ultra-LD Amplifier
As published in the March & May
2000 issues, the Ultra-LD 100W amplifier does produce a thump several
seconds after switch-off although
it does not sound particularly loud.
However during our testing of this
loudspeaker protection circuit, we noticed that if the power was turned on
and then off fairly quickly, there was
quite a sharp turn-on thump as the
relay reconnected the loudspeakers.
This was puzzling as normally there
is very little turn-on thump from this
amplifier.
We then connected up our digital
scope to monitor the output of one
amplifier channel, both before and
after the relay. Setting the timebase
to 0.5 sec/div, we were able to easily
60 Silicon Chip
observe what was going on.
When the amplifier was turned off,
it did produce a turn-off thump which
was muted by the delay circuit. However, the turn-off thump was really
quite severe, amounting to a 20V
spike which then decayed to zero over
a period of 20 seconds or more. So if
the power was reapplied shortly after
turning off, the mute delay capacitor
had not had enough time to discharge
and it connected the amplifier before
it had time to stabilise again, producing a sharp thump.
Having seen just how severe the
turn-off thump was, we realised it
was due to the regulated -55V rail
collapsing prema
turely. This was
due to the fact that the current drain
from the -55V rail is higher than from
the +55V rail. The solution was to
increase the 100µF 63V capacitor
connected to the -55V rail on each
amplifier board, to 220µF.
This change means that the input
differential stage (Q1, Q2) maintains control over the amplifier DC
conditions for much longer so that
the main ±52.5V rails are almost
completely discharged before the
amplifier ceases to work. The result
– no turn-off thump.
So regardless of whether you
build this protection circuit of not,
we recommend that owners of the
Ultra-LD amplifiers increase the
100µF capacitor for the -55V rail on
each board to 220µF.
WHY???
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Keyless / Keypadless DTMF Alarm Switch.
This kit does not connect to the phone line,
it uses an Electret Microphone (mains
ents, Electret Microphone, plastic box,
BRAND NEW GERMAN MADE MOTOR pushbutton, plugpack, label and a
AND GEARBOX.
speaker: (K153C) $42
This is a 24V motor but runs well with
plenty of torque at 12V and starts at 2-3V. NEW AUSTRALIAN
The out put shaft is 10mm dia. and the PLUG PACKS AT BELOW
motor is 60mm dia. X 94mm long. We WHOLESALE PRICES
believe these are made as truck GENERAL ELECTRIC 20VA
windscreen wiper motors. This motor is 14VDC <at> 700mA.....
worth well over $100, But as a special for AUDIOVOX 9V
<at> 500mA
August and Sep.
AUDIOVOX 12V
2000 only...
<at> 400mA....
just $20
$5 Ea. or 5 for $20
9V <at> 1A $9
More motors on our website
UHF AUDIO / VIDEO TRANSMITTER
KITKit includes all components needed.
PCB plus all on-board components,
connectors, switch, metal case, telescopic
N e w 1 2 V - 2 4 V i n v e r t e r u n d e r antenna, twin RCA A/V lead, all that is
needed to complete the full kit. 12Vdc
development.
20ADC motor speed controller kit (K98) <at>10mA operation.
when purchased with the above motor $14 Ideal for transmitting audio and
AUTOMATIC LASER LIGHT SHOW KIT: video around you
MKIII. Changes patterns every 5 - 60 secs. home.. Complete
suitable
Countless great displays from single to Kit for just $28
plugcack $5
multiple flowers, collapsing circles,
rotating single & multi ellipses, stars, etc. 3 LED LOGIC PROBE KIT:
Kit inc. PCB, all on board comp-onents, (Ref. SC May 1998) Ideal for tracthree small DC motors, mirrors, precision ing digital / logic faults and
powered by the circuit under
adjustable mirror
test. Includes PCB and
mounts &
all on-board components,
laser module.
LED's and a surplus
(K115) Kit with
laser module $50
case $15 plastic case which
a special for August & September 1995.
measures 35 x 24 x 123mm: (K119) $7
NIGHT VISION
UPGRADES & MORE
Be quick to find the following &
many more items in the "BARGAIN
CORNER" of our website ....... SIMPLY
SPEAKING VOICE SOFTWARE plus
headset: $25, PENTIUM NOTEBOOK
COMPUTERS: $700, PENTIUM
MOTHERBOARDS: $90, PENTIUM 11
COOLER FANS: $3, TV/FM/CAPTURE
CARDS with infra red remote controls:
$160, TEKRAM SCSI CONTROLLERS:
$90, POWERWARE 3115 300VA UPS's:
$220, NET 450VA UPS's: $300, VGA
CABLES: $3, TELEPHONY COMBO
33.6K MODEM CARDS: $35, 5V/3A
S W I T C H E D M O D E R E G U L AT E D
POWER ADAPTORS: $12, SCANNER
ASSSEMBLY with electronics /lens
/mirrors: $12, etc., etc. VISIT:
www.oatleyelectronics.com
DOOR / WINDOW ALARM
Small, simple, easy to
mount, operates
when a door or
window is opened,
has very loud electromechanical siren,
mounting screws
provided, has OF-ON
BRAND
switch, needs 2 X AA
batteries (Not provided): $3.50
Radar
STEPPER MOTORS
SANYO DENKI (Step Syn) Type 103770-6942, 4wire, main body is 67mm
diam. by 51mm long, 1.5A / 4.5V,
1.8deg. steps, 0.46KG,: $15
GEARED AC MOTORS
Brand new small
mains operated
geared motors,
very strong,
made for
rotating
microwave
turntables, 240V/
50Hz/3W/5RPM.,
$4Ea. or or 4 for $12.
35-140 LED INFRA-RED
ILLUMINATOR KIT
Comes on when it gets dark
or can be controlled by alarm
system. 20-30M range Kit inc.
mounting tray & universal
swivel mount. 35 LEDs $25.
Extra 35 LED pack (3extra
packs max) $14 per pack.
140 LED kit: $67 OR base Kit + 105 extra NEW 500W Tungsten Halogen Lamps
LEDs, 140 LEDs TOTAL!!! for just $50.
(All are new but packing may be shop
Use with B/W cameras to see in the dark. soiled) Ideal replacement or spare bulbs
ONE / TWO CHANNEL UHF REMOTE for yard and security lights. $2ea
CONTROL On freq. of 304MHz,
transmitter is
(USED) POCKET PAGERS: Small
assembled,
modern pagers, brands include LINK,
receiver is a
kit, inc. 2 12V/
PHILIPS, RTC. Condition “unknown”, all
12A relays, 1Tx +
have two small (grain of wheat) 1.5V
1Rx kit:$45, additional Tx: $15
lamps and lots of other parts. All are
I CHANNEL Kit just $25
powered
by
one
30 Minute MECHANICAL TIMER:
AA cell.
With normally open contacts
(089910)
(closed when timing). Timer
5 for $5
"DINGS" at the end of timing.
Some with micro vibration motors $5ea
Ideal for battery chargers or
exposure timers: (GMT2) $4
MASTHEAD AMPLIFIER KIT SPECIAL
The MAR-6 available separately $4.
12 HOUR MECHANICAL TIMER:
The amplifier gives good results
55 x 48 x 40mm, 5mm
with any two metal wires or
shaft (knob not supplied),
strips acting for the antenna. It
two hours timing per 45
degree rotation. Two
should even work with a coat25V / 16A SPST switches
hanger! Basic kit with both
(normally closed contacts - open when the PCBs & all on-board
timing) which close at the end of the timing parts (K03) $15 ...Basic Kit +
period: (GMT1) $4
2 Weather-proof Plastic
Check out our “new look” Boxes + plug-pack: $24
(ask for your free case with this item)
web site for more
$25
products. Amazing cheap
super bargains in our
bargain corner.
Some of our prices have changed as a
result of GST & some as a result of the
poor performance of the Australian
dollar...
www.oatleyelectronics.com Orders: Ph ( 02 ) 9584 3563 or 64, Fax 9584 3561, sales<at>oatleyelectronics.com, PO Box
89 Oatley
NSW 2223
August
2000 61
major cards with ph. & fax orders, Post & Pack typically $7 Prices subject to change without notice ACN 068 740 081 ABN18068 740 081
SC_AUG_00
Proximity
switch for
240VAC
mains lights
Do you have a table lamp or
standard lamp without an inbuilt
mains switch? How would you like
to turn the lamp on and off without
even touching it? Now you can do it
with this compact mains-operated
proximity switch. Wave your hand
near it to turn it on or off.
Article By LEO SIMPSON
Design By ALLAN BONNARD
M
AINS-OPERATED touch
switches for light dimmers
and table lamps are not new
but up till now they have all involved
a metal plate or exposed metal work
which you need to touch to operate.
This Proximity Switch circuit is different – there is no exposed metal
plate; you just wave your hand near a
concealed plate and hand capacitance
does the rest, turning the circuit on
and off.
In practice the circuit is built into
a small plastic case in series with the
mains cord to the lamp. Alternatively,
if the lamp base has space inside and
is not made of metal, you could build
the Proximity Switch right inside it.
Before we go any further, this circuit
62 Silicon Chip
design is not suitable for permanent
installation as a light switch in your
house wiring. This is because it is a
4-wire circuit and a light switch is
normally a 2-wire circuit.
So how do you produce a Proximity
Switch for 240VAC lights? It has been
made possible by a new IC which is
designed to work with a proximity
sensor. The sensor is located behind
the light switch pad, fully protected
by a dielectric (ie, insulating) barrier.
Thus the unit offers increased safety.
The sensor works on a principle
of “charge transfer sensing”, which
has its origins back in the 1700s,
when investigations where first being
made into electricity. A study of this
was made by Mr William Watson in
England and also by the renowned
Benjamin Franklin.
Charge transfer sensing
In effect, the IC measures the charge
on the sensor plate by transferring
its charge to a charge detector with a
known capacitance value (Cs). This
transferring is done using Mosfet
switches internal to the IC. Now if the
charge detector detects capacitance
above a certain level, the output is
triggered.
This sounds relatively easy but
there are some complications. Firstly,
the effective capacitance of the sensor
plate can vary widely depending on
the location and wiring configuration,
so having a fixed threshold level for
WARNING: ALL PARTS
OPERATE AT 240VAC
Fig.1: the circuit is based on a proximity sensor IC (QT116) which turns the
Triac on or off in response to change in capacitance of the sensor plate. Note
that all parts of the circuit run at 240VAC – they are live and dangerous.
circuit switching would be useless.
Instead the IC calculates the sensor
plate capacitance at that particular
location and then looks for sudden
changes in this level to control the
output triggering.
Another problem that comes with
this type of circuit is noise so the IC
uses a burst mode to acquire the signal and check the level. For a valid
detection, a series of four consecutive
confirmations will be required before
a detection is registered.
Within the IC is a 14-bit single-slope
switched capacitor Analog-to-Digital
Converter (ADC). This optimises the
burst length according to the buildup on Cs so that the circuit will not
become swamped when high capacitance values are encountered.
Circuit details
Fig.1 shows the complete circuit. It
is directly powered from the 240VAC
mains supply via the 0.1µF 250VAC
capacitor (C1) and 100Ω limiting
resistor (R1). The reduced supply
is rectified and regulated to 9.1V by
zener diode D1 and then fed via diode
D2 to the 100µF capacitor to provide
a supply voltage of about 8.5V. This
supplies transistor Q1 which provides
the gate current to the Triac.
The 8.5V supply is then fed via a
2kΩ resistor (R4) to zener diode D3
which provides a well-regulated 5.1V
supply for IC1.
The small sensor plate is connected
directly to pin 7 of IC1 and also via a
.047µF capacitor to pin 6.
Each time the circuit is triggered,
the output at pin 2 goes high to turn on
Warning!
All parts in this circuit (including
the sensor plate) operate at mains
potential (ie, 240VAC) and must be fully
isolated from the user.
Do not operate this device unless
it is fully enclosed in a plastic case.
Similarly, do not work on the circuit or
touch ANY part (sensor plate included)
while it is plugged into a mains outlet.
We recommend that only experienced people build this design.
Q1 and the Triac Q2, or low to switch
both devices off. The Triac is turned
almost fully on and so there is relatively little switching hash produced
by it, which would not be the case if it
was a conventional phase-controlled
Triac circuit as used in a light dimmer.
The Triac is rated up to 10A but
this circuit is only suitable for lamp
loads up to about 300W since there is
no heatsink for Q2 and the PC board
tracks are not suitable for high cur
rents.
The 56Ω 1W resistor and .01µF capacitor across the Triac form a snubber
network to protect it from switching
voltage transients.
PC board assembly
There are two boards involved for
this project, one for the sensor plate
which does not have any components
on it and one for the main circuit and
this comes with a screen-printed comTo ensure safety,
the circuit must be
fully enclosed in a
plastic case with
no exposed metal
parts.
August 2000 63
Fig.2: the wiring diagram and component overlay. The whole assembly,
including the sense plate, must be mounted in a plastic box for safety.
ponent overlay which is also shown
in the wiring diagram of Fig.2.
First mount the IC socket and then
the resistors, diodes, transistor and
Triac and make sure that the semiconductors are installed the right way
around. The capacitors can go in either
way around except for the 100µF electrolytic which must be installed with
correct polarity.
Do not place IC1 in the socket yet,
as we will need to test the circuit first
(see below). Next, attach the 4-way insulated terminal block to the PC board
with two 6BA screws and nuts. Then
use brown and blue 250VAC hookup
wire to make the Active & Neutral
connections from the PC board to the
insulated terminal block.
You then need to connect the sensor
plate. This is done by soldering a small
length of tinned copper wire to the
appropriate pad on the PC board. This
wire passes through the single hole in
the sensor board when it is mated up
to the main PC board and soldered.
The sensor board is attached to the PC
board with four 6BA screws and eight
nuts, with nuts being used as spacers,
as shown in the photos.
Testing
There are several ways to test the
circuit and it is preferable to do it at
low voltage rather than at 240VAC.
The preferred method is to use a DC
power supply set to an output of between 12V and 15V or thereabouts.
Connect the negative lead from the
supply to the Active 240VAC line in
terminal. Connect the positive lead
to the C1 capacitor side of R1 (100Ω
1W). Now use your multimeter to
check the DC voltage between pin 1
Table 2: Capacitor Codes
Value
IEC Code EIA Code
0.1µF
100n 104
.047µF 47n 473
.01µF 10n 103
22pF 22p 22
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
No.
1
1
1
1
1
64 Silicon Chip
Value
3.9MΩ
2kΩ
470Ω
100Ω
56Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
orange white green brown
red black red brown
yellow violet brown brown
brown black brown brown
green blue black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
orange white black yellow brown
red black black brown brown
yellow violet black black brown
brown black black black brown
green blue black gold brown
Parts List
1 PC board, 72 x 33mm
1 PC board (sensor), 52 x 34mm
2 2-way insulated terminal blocks
1 double-screw BP connector
1 plastic utility box, 85 x 56 x
40mm, DSE Cat. H-2874 or
equivalent.
1 250VAC 3-core flex and
moulded 3-pin plug
2 cordgrip grommets to suit power
flex
6 6BA screws and 10 6BA nuts
Semiconductors
1 QT116-D proximity sensor and
Triac trigger (IC1)
1 C9013 NPN transistor (Q1)
1 BTA06 600C 600V Triac (Q2)
1 9.1V 1W zener diode (D1)
1 1N4004 1A 400V diode (D2)
1 1N4733 5.1V 1W Zener diode
(D3)
Capacitors
1 100µF 25VW electrolytic
1 0.1µF 250VAC metallised
polyester
1 0.1µF monolithic
1 .01µF 250VAC metallised
polyester
1 .047µF monolithic
1 22pF ceramic
Above: the PC board assembly, complete with the sensor plate, is attached to the
lid of the case using contact cement or a similar adhesive.
This view shows how the sensor plate
is mounted on the main PC board. The
entire assembly is then glued to the
case lid. DO NOT TOUCH the sensor
plate or any other parts while the unit
is plugged into the mains.
and pin 8 of IC1. It should be close to
5V. Similarly, the voltage across C1
should be close to 8.4V.
If these checks are not correct,
disconnect the supply and recheck
all the components and orientation.
If everything is OK, place IC1 in the
circuit and connect the power cord
as shown in the wiring diagram of
Fig.2. The two cords must be secured
to the case using appropriately-sized
cordgrip grommets.
Note that the mains earth wires
must be twisted together and secured
using BOTH screws in the BP connector.
The PC board assembly can be
attached to the lid of the case using
contact cement or other adhesive,
after which the lid can be fastened
to the case.
Now connect a table lamp and plug
in to the 240VAC mains. The lamp
should initially be off and you should
be able to turn it on by waving your
Resistors
1 3.9MΩ 0.5W
1 2kΩ
1 470Ω
1 100Ω 1W
1 56Ω 1W
WHERE TO BUY PARTS
The design copyright for the Prox
imity Detector is owned by Futurlec
who can supply the PC boards plus
all on-board parts (but not the case).
The price is $19 plus $3 packing
and postage within Australia. Orders
may be placed via their website at
www.futurlec.com using Bankcard, Visa Card or Mastercard.
Alternatively, orders can be sent
with a credit card authorisation,
cheque or money order to Futurlec,
24 William St, Paterson, NSW 2421.
hand over the plastic case. To turn it
off, just wave your hand over the box
again or tap the case briefly.
The unit could be used with other
small appliances, such as radios or
small TV sets and is ideal for the elderly or disabled who may have trouble
SC
with small switches or knobs.
August 2000 65
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au
SILICON $ 95*
10
CHIP’S
Electronics
TestBench
inc GST
ISBN 0
958522
9 2 8
A selection of
from the page the best test equipment
s of SILICON C
www.silic
HIP magazine
onchip.c
.
om.au
Structured Ca
...and the KRONE
These days, it’s an unusual business that doesn’t have its
computers networked. But there are networks – and
networks. How can today’s organisation install a network
that not only gives the performance required but also the
flexibility to cope with change, growth, and emerging
technologies? The answer lies in structured cabling.
F
irst, though, a network story
that would almost make you cry.
I can guarantee the veracity
because I was there.
Recently, a large firm of architects
decided to move offices. They had occupied a whole floor of a city building
with perhaps sixty or so computers
networked via Cat5 cable (see “What
is Cat5” panel).
I was offered some of the office
furniture that was surplus to requirements so went in one Saturday
morning to get what I wanted. Ahead
of me was an electrician, removing not
just all the electrical wiring but all of
the network and telephone cabling.
The way he was doing this was
simple: cut it off into small lengths
and reef it out!
We started talking about this incredible waste but he wasn’t too perturbed. The opposite, in fact: he said
“hey, when the new tenants move in
they’ll call me to put all this stuff back
in again. I win both ways!”
To make matters worse, he told me
that this was by far his major source
of income. “I do it all the time as
companies move offices,” he said.
“Sometimes they’re not even moving but reorganising, moving people
around internally. You’d be amazed at
how much stuff they put in, then pull
it all out six months later!”
70 Silicon Chip
While I would hate to see a sparkie
done out of a job, all this wastage (to
me) borders on the criminal. And
the pity of it all is that it could all
be avoided with a structured cabling
system. Most new buildings are being
cabled this way but it’s just as viable
for existing buildings, especially
when the occupants want to upgrade.
Done once, it doesn’t need to be done
again.
What is a structured cabling
system?
Put as simply as possible, it’s a
method of installing data and communications cabling which allows total
flexibility by remaining fixed in place.
Huh?
OK, we acknowledge that’s a bit of
a difficult concept to follow. How can
a cabling system that is fixed in place
allow total flexibility?
Let’s take a typical scenario in a
large company.
Jane Smith has earned her promotion and moves into the manager’s
office. Good news for Jane but now
she has a different office, a different
phone and possibly fax number.
She plugs her computer into the
wall socket and finds… nothing. Her
by ROSS TESTER
computer cannot talk to the network
because the socket isn’t wired.
Now the network administrator
has to make a whole lot of changes,
all Jane’s workmates have to change
their telephone lists, the receptionist
needs to remember the change . . . It’s
all pretty simple stuff of course but it’s
all very disruptive and costly.
And don’t forget John Smith who
has moved into Jane Smith’s old office,
with a new telephone and fax number.
At least his computer will talk to the
network because Jane’s used to plug
in there!
Or another example: many organisations today use workgroups to
tackle particular tasks or contracts.
When that task or contract is complete, the members of that workgroup
are disbursed to different workgroups
to take on new tasks.
Again, locations change, phone
numbers change, computers move. It’s
the above situation all over again but
multiplied by the number of people
involved.
Wouldn’t it be nice if Jane and
John Smith’s phone and fax numbers
and computers (ditto everyone in
the workgroup) could stay the same
regardless of where they were physically located in the organisation?
In other words, their “electronic”
address(es) stayed exactly the same,
abling Systems
E “MiniLAN”
Making changes to the phone, fax, network or other communication lines is so simple it’s almost child’s play. This
particular version of the KRONE MiniLAN uses punch-down connectors but it could be just as easily loaded with
plug’n’play couplers.
regardless of their physical location.
socket(s) close by, just waiting to be one point, a “switchboard”, of sorts,
where the signal paths can be directed
They can – with a structured ca- plugged in.
and changed virtually at will. It is
bling system.
That’s at the worker’s end. But
this ability to change which gives the
Part of the secret is that when the the major feature of the structured
network (or PABX system) is installed, cabling system is at the other end of system its flexibility.
those cables. They all go back to the
In fact, the word “switchboard” is
every office, every possible location
quite a good analogy.
where a worker will be
For those old enough
located (eg, a desk or a
to remember manual
workstation) is pre-wired
• Any service – telephone (voice), fax, data and even audio
telep hone exchanges
– just in case it will ever
and video can be made available to any outlet as required.
(Silvester switchboards)
be used.
where subscribers were
Now if this seems like a
• Changing those services or re-routing to another outlet can
connected by a switchbig waste of cable, in the
be achieved within minutes.
girl (sorry to be sexist but
overall scheme of things
• The heart of a structured cabling system is the ability to
they were almost always
adding a few tens or even
interconnect or “patch” cables together as required.
girls!) who plugged lines
hundreds of metres of
• Data rates of 100 megabits per second and more can be
into appropriate cables
cable in the installation
achieved now – and as technology pushes speeds higher,
on the board, that’s exphase costs a whole lot
structured cabling can handle it
actly what happens with
less than trying to fix
a structured cabling
things up later – and then
• Old and new systems (or protocols) can be handled with
system.
paying for the disruption!
ease. This means that an organisation does not need to
When someone moves
Every office, every desk
update a complete system but can do it gradually.
offices, all the network
location has its own
Structured Cabling in Summary:
August 2000 71
TO ANOTHER NETWORK
OTHER SERVICES IN
(DIGITAL OR ANALOG)
PHONE, FAX LINES IN
administrator needs to do is swap the
patch lead from its current location
(the socket connected to the cable
which went to Jane Smith’s old office)
to the socket which connects to her
new location.
Exactly the same thing applies to
her phone and fax lines: simply swap
a couple of patch leads.
The same simple solution applies
with John Smith. He is “patched”
through to his new location.
No change of addresses or numbers,
no problems – Jane and John Smith
have moved but their business lifelines have moved with them – with
little or no disruption.
72 Silicon Chip
It looks just like a typical network – except for that
box in the middle. It’s the heart of a structured
cabling system and allows changes to be made
virtually at will without re-wiring.
The system is not limited to
work-stations; it can also be used for
shared equipment. A lot of equipment – printers, scanners, etc – is
now appearing with network identification codes, making these devices
“intelligent” as far as a network is
concerned. They don’t even need to
be connected to a PC – just plugged
straight into the network.
Believe it or not, there are even
such things as intelligent video cameras which have their own ID – you
can log on to these (eg, for security
applications) as you would any other
device with a network ID.
These intelligent devices are called
“network appliances” (that’s one of
the new industry buzz-words you’re
going to hear a lot more of!).
You’re probably thinking that
what we’ve been describing so far is
for large organisations, Government
departments and the like. But now
structured cabling systems are also
eminently suitable for SMEs (small
to medium enterprises).
With the right equipment, a structured cabling system is an elegant,
cost-effective solution for the data and
communications needs of any sized
business – even the small office/home
office (SOHO). Don’t you just love all
these acronyms?
Closed (left) and open (above) views of the KRONE MiniLAN before
any cabling. This one has two 24-way patch panels (OK, one is a 23way because it’s missing a coupler!) as well as a modem on the shelf.
As you can see, there’s plenty of space for more devices including
another patch panel if you wish. It’s all up to you and your needs.
The KRONE MiniLAN
The KRONE MiniLAN, distributed
by Namlea Data Systems (NDS), is an
excellent example of the “heart” of
a structured cabling system. Where
large companies, government departments and so on might require a
room-sized installation, the MiniLAN
is the solution for small businesses.
That’s not to say those larger organisations don’t have applications
for the MiniLAN: remember those
workgroups we talked about before?
The MiniLAN is the perfect method
for connecting a workgroup back into
a large organisation’s mainframe.
Perhaps even more importantly, it
allows a mixture of protocols on the
same network (protocols describe the
way computers talk to each other over
the network). A MiniLAN can provide
the gateway for a network operating
on one protocol to talk to another
(perhaps larger, older) network.
And as we said above, it also allows
such things as printers, scanners and
other network equipment to be placed
Two types of RJ-45 jack,
showing the difference: on
the left is a “coupler” which
is in fact two back-to-back
jacks. These are used only
with patch cords. On the right
are two “punch-down” jacks
(front and rear) which require
connection with a special
punchdown tool to solid core
Cat5 LAN cable.
wherever convenient – exactly the
type of flexibility large organisations
have been demanding.
The point is that the MiniLAN
and structured cabling make perfect
partners for any organisation with
changing requirements – whether
those requirements are current work
practices, future expansion – anything.
The MiniLAN is small – just 301
(W) x 371 (H) x 102 (D)mm. Something this small can be mounted just
about anywhere – anywhere that’s
convenient to bring the cabling into.
It’s suitable for wall or desk mounting.
What makes the MiniLAN exciting
though, is not its size nor its versatility. For the first time it is possible for
anyone with a minimal knowledge
of computer operation to change not
only the network but telephone services as required.
Until now, at least in the case of
telephones, that’s been illegal. To
change the position of a phone or a
number in a business, you’ve had to
call in an Austel-approved cabling installer who would make the necessary
changes to your system and charge
you accordingly.
Because you’re not touching any
of the wiring – it stays exactly where
it was originally installed – you can
quite legally make wholesale changes
to the system. All you are doing is
changing the positions of patch leads
which make the connections to that
wiring. As long as you can read the
labels on the sockets and follow simple colour coding, you’re in business!
Now you can see what makes
MiniLAN such a boon for business. As
well as avoiding the disruption of the
person moving, you’re also avoiding
the disruption of moving everything
associated with the person. MiniLAN
makes it that easy.
You may have noticed that we
have been freely mixing up computer
networking and telephone circuits
in this discussion. That’s deliberate
– because MiniLAN can handle both
at the same time. It can also handle
audio, low-resolution video and more.
Inside the MiniLAN
The MiniLAN is designed to hold
one, two or three 24-port patch panels
(it is supplied with one of these patch
panels fitted). There is also a shelf
designed to accommodate all of the
data/communications interconnectivity equipment required – a modem
(or perhaps two), network hubs or
August 2000 73
What is “Cat5”?
As you may have realised, Cat5 is shorthand for Category 5. But what is this category and are there other
categories?
The cable categories you will find in general use are
Cat3, Cat4 and Cat5. There are others, of course,
but they won’t concern us here.
These are all types – categories – of unshielded twisted
pair (UTP) cables. As that name suggests, the pairs
of insulated conductors within a cable are twisted
together. Cat5 UTP has eight insulated conductors,
twisted tightly together in four pairs.
By the way, the pairs of insulated conductors or indeed
the whole cable can also be shielded – known as STP,
or shielded twisted pairs. STP is not as commonly
used in Australia.
You have probably seen and used Category 3 cable
many times. Standard 4-core telephone cable is
Cat3. As data cable, its use is limited to “low speed”
10-BaseT networks of 10 megabits per second or
less. It is quite rare to find Cat3 cable used in data
installations these days – but it is occasionally used.
Cat4 cable is only marginally better than Cat3 – it is
suitable for up to 16 megabits per second. It was
originally used in Token Ring networks.
Cat5 cable takes a massive leap forward in speed –
up to 100 megabits per second and more. And now
there is a new “enhanced” version – Cat5E , the
so-called “Gigabit Ethernet” which is rated at 1000
megabits per second (1GB). Cat5E is only slightly
more expensive than standard Cat5 so for new installations, looking towards the future, it is by far the
better proposition.
Here when we refer to Cat5 it could be either Cat5 or
Cat5E. The MiniLAN, by the way, performs to Cat5E
specifications.
The outer insulation of Cat5 cables is almost always
light blue.
There are two types of Cat5 cable – one has a solid
core and is intended for permanent installation (ie, in
the wall or in ducts); the other has multiple conductors and is intended for patch cables. The first type
is referred to in the trade as LAN cable, the second
as patch cable. It is important not to use one in place
of the other not just because of flexibility but also
because of the connectors used.
Cat5 is almost never soldered to – connectors are
virtually always a crimped type. In the RJ-45 wall
jacks or sockets an IDC (insulation displacement
connection) is used, where the connection is made
to each of the solid-core wires by tiny blades which
pierce the wire’s insulation and grip the outsides of
the wire. This is also known as “punched down” – the
special tool to perform this action and terminate the
wires is called a punch-down tool.
Conversely, most RJ-45 plugs are designed to connect
mainly to patch leads. In this case, a sharp point
pierces the insulation and separates the multi-strands
inside, making contact with many of them.
This highlights one of the most-often-made mistakes
with Cat5: using the wrong type of plug with the
wrong type of cable.
This problem is overcome by using ready-made leads
(in fact, with telephone services, Austel rules require
you to use approved (therefore pre-made) cables.
Cat5 has a standardised colour scheme where the
pairs of cables within the outer sheath can be easily
identified. There are four basic colours – blue, orange,
green and brown. The other cable of each pair has
the same main colour along with a white stripe, or
is white with the main colour as a stripe.
Pair one, therefore, is blue and white/blue; pair two is
orange and white/orange; pair three is green and
white/green and pair four is brown and white/brown.
Each of the pairs is assigned to a particular pair of
pins on the modular connector so as to miminimse
the chance of interference between the various
transmit/receive pairs.
There is one main standard used in Australia, 568A.
This has pair one connected to pins four and five,
pair two to pins three and six, pair three to pins one
and two and pair four to pins seven and eight.
Finally, there are limits on the lengths you can run Cat5
cable – the usual rule is 90 metres of LAN cable
and up to ten metres of patch cable at each end – a
total of 100 metres overall. If you think 100 metres
is a long distance, you might be surprised just how
much is used when running cable, especially when
run around offices, up (or down) partitions and so on.
Some brands of Cat5 LAN cable have their length back
to the start of the roll printed on them every metre –
that’s handy when you’re installing long lengths and
want to know how much cable you have left!
Wiring of Cat5 to an RJ-45 jack or
plug following the Type 568A
standard, the one most usually
found in Australia.
74 Silicon Chip
routers, internet gateways and so on.
Each of the patch panels can be
loaded with as many keystone inline jacks as required (up to the 24
maximum). The RJ-45 jacks (also
called modular connectors) themselves can be either the traditional
“punchdown” variety which has
one side pre-wired and permanently
connected (in the case of phone lines,
by a licensed Austel installer) or can
be double-ended which means both
sides have RJ-45 jacks and use patch
leads to connect on both sides (more
correctly called “couplers”).
What you use depends to a large degree on where you site the MiniLAN.
Ideally, it should be close to where
your phone lines come in, then patch
leads and couplers can be used. If
some distance away, your phone
lines will need to be extended (by a
licenced installer) and terminated to
RJ-45 sockets.
The major point is that once the
phone lines are terminated to the back
of the MiniLAN you don’t need to go
there again. Everything is now done
from the front.
To use an oft-misused term, the
MiniLAN is plug’n’play – you plug
in, then play (or work!)
Colour-coded jacks are available
which tell at a glance what service is
what. You can get red, blue, white,
black, green, yellow and grey. What
are all the colours used for? Well, Cat5
cabling is not limited to phone, fax or
data. You can also run audio over Cat5
and even low-resolution video (eg,
from the CCD cameras now available).
Other reasons to use different colours are to divide the area into workgroups or sections (eg, marketing has
black, warehouse yellow, and so on).
The back of the MiniLAN is open,
allowing completely unfettered entry
of all cables. The front is protected
by a hinged perspex door with just
enough “smokiness” to camouflage
(but not hide) what’s inside. It’s quite
an attractive package.
Installation
Your first step is to decide how big
a system you will be installing and for
what purpose. Remembering what we
said before about the future, it’s better
to go too big than too little. Think of
how much you’d like your business
to grow in future – then add another
50% margin just in case you’re really
successful!
A typical Krone MiniLAN setup with the patch panel
at top patched through to a 8-port network hub, thence
to an internet gateway (bottom) and then a 56k modem,
giving a full shared internet connection to multiple users.
“RJ” jacks and plugs
The industry refers to the modular plug and jack
system as “RJ” . While possibly a misnomer (RJ
more correctly refers to a cable standard), that’s
what they’re commonly known as so that’s
what we’ll call them.
The jack is the wall-mounted or floor-mounted socket, or
female connection, one of which is pictured above. The plug is the male
connector which inserts into the jack (as pictured below).
The 4-pin modular plug most commonly associated with telephones is known
as a 4P4C, or four position four contact (even though in telephones only two
are required and often only two are connected, which could be described
as 4P2C).
The RJ-11 and RJ-12 connectors are 6-position sockets used for voice applications. They're commonly used on answering machines. 6P2C sockets
have two contacts wired (usually the middle pair), 6P4C have four contacts
wired while 6P6C have all six contacts wired.
The RJ45 connector is actually an eight-position socket. It is almost always
loaded with all eight contacts wired (8P8C) but for specific uses can be wired
with two contacts (8P2C), four contacts (8P4C), or six contacts (8P6C).
RJ-11 and RJ-12 plugs can usually be inserted into an RJ45 jack but there is
some danger of distorting the socket (due to insufficient sideways support).
This may result in an unreliable connection.
Incidentally, Telstra has recently announced
that they plan on standardising on an RJ45
socket for all new telephone installations.
August 2000 75
The two different
Cat5 cables in use
and the two types of
wall outlets: here we
have LAN Cat5 wired
through ducting to a
pair of surface-mount
boxes containing RJ-45
jacks (left) while the
photo at right shows
a surface-mounted
double RJ-45 jack with
a PATCH Cat5 cable
going off to its device.
You also need to decide which
services will be connected through
your MiniLAN and how you’re going
to identify them.
Take phone lines, for example: most
businesses use a PABX or at least a
Commander-type system. There’s
nothing at all to stop you wiring these
lines via the MiniLAN, just as there
is nothing to stop you wiring direct
or dedicated lines (fax/modem lines,
for example).
Note that installation of the lines
from the street or from your PABX/
Commander system to the MiniLAN
must be done by an Austel-licensed
installer. But once they’re in place,
you can route them as you wish.
You would normally use one panel
(or perhaps one area of a panel in a
small installation) for your incoming
services and another panel (or area)
for your LAN connections, phone
lines, etc.
By the way, you aren’t limited to
data and phone connections – the
same cabling can be used for building
security, audio distribution and even
low-res video. However, there are
limitations in using the cabling for
a number of services due to interference between adjacent pairs of wires
within the cable (crosstalk arguably
being the worst problem).
There are various ways in which
these problems can be minimised –
for example the amount of individual
wire untwisted from the Cat5 cable
must be carefully controlled.
You may be wondering, as we did,
if you want to run different services
over the various pairs of conductors
within the Cat5 – how do you do it?
The answer here is to use a splitter
– it doubles the capacity by separating
out the cables into two RJ-45 sockets.
You could therefore run two phone
lines – one voice, one data; two data;
or two voice over the same cable.
76 Silicon Chip
Having said that, though, if you
want to ensure top performance it is
better to install additional Cat5 cables
(at time of original installation) to run
other services, especially if you’re
going for high-speed or organisation-critical data.
Running Cat5
I’ve installed a fair bit of cabling
over the years – everything from
unforgiving heavy-duty coax for amateur antennas to burglar alarm sensor
wiring in impossible-to-reach places
and even run kilometres of figure-8
up and down beaches for PA systems.
But I have to say that Cat5 has to
be the most ornery (cable) critter I’ve
ever come across.
I’m sure that Cat5 is what Murphy’s
Law (or more specifically, his first
cable corollary) was written for: the
more impossible it is for a cable to
tangle, the more certain it is that the
cable will develop a tangle of monumental proportions; or the less likely
a cable can possibly get caught on a
snag, the more likely it will!
Having said that, installing Cat5
cable is not dissimilar to installing
any other type of cable. However, you
should keep in mind that the wires
in Cat5 for permanent installation in
the wall or ducts (called Cat5 LAN)
always have single solid conductors
so it doesn’t take too kindly to kinking, stretching or jerking.
Nor should you install it where it
can be stepped on or chafed on tight
corners nor curved too tightly in radius, which can degrade performance.
If you have to pull Cat5 too hard
(eg, to get it through a wall cavity) the
holes it’s going through are probably
too small. On a long distance run, if
you have the choice (ie access), make
the pull in two halves: pull it part way,
then pull it through the rest of the way.
Cat5 cables for patching have
multi-wire conductors for flexibility
because they are designed to be moved
around. Having said that, though, they
should still be treated with due care!
You can choose a variety of mounting methods and locations for the
wall or outlet jacks (sockets) for your
Cat5 LAN. Standalone surface mount
boxes are available for areas away
from the wall.
On walls you can use either those
boxes or, for a neater appearance,
jacks are available which will snap
into standard Clipsal/HPM style wall
plates (the same as those used for light
switches) in one, two, three or four
jack-to-the-plate configurations.
Terminating Cat5 to modular sockets will usually require the use of a
special cable stripper to remove the
other insulation (or sheath) without
damaging the inside cables. Then
you’ll almost certainly need a punchdown tool to anchor the individual
conductors correctly into the back of
the socket,
This is not difficult to do but before
you try it for real, practise on some
Cat5 offcuts!
You can make Cat5 patch leads
yourself – but why bother? They’re
readily available in a wide variety of
lengths and colours – and if the length
of lead you want isn’t available “off
the shelf”, companies such as NDS
can make them to order.
By the way, if you’re considering a
MiniLAN or any other LAN installation, it’s well worth getting hold of a
copy of the NDS catalog – it has a great
deal of network information as well as
all the products you’re going to need.
Call (02) 9429 0800 and they’ll send
SC
you a copy, free of charge.
Acknowledgement:
Much of the information and some of
the photographs and illustrations are
courtesy of Namlea Data Systems.
RemoteEye
Caught in the Act !
RemoteEye is a digital remote security camera designed to provide dial-in remote
access surveillance. RemoteEye combines stand alone event-triggered image
capture with remote accessible interactive real-time viewing. By interfacing to
standard alarm systems, security switches, or using it’s own built-in motion
detection system, RemoteEye can record events as they occur.
Dial up RemoteEye with your home or office PC, or on the road with a laptop,
and it is a real-time surveillance camera. You can even have RemoteEye page
you when a triggered picture is snapped or your alarm goes off !
Complete turnkey Solution: Ready to go, right out of the box, RemoteEye
comes with a lens, 25ft cable, modem, power supply and RemoteEye software.
The RemoteEye camera can be placed anywhere there’s a phone line and
accessed remotely via modem (no PC required at camera site).
Pager Notification: RemoteEye will automatically notify you whenever there’s
something to see, using your numeric pager or cellular phone.
division of Yager Electronics Pty. Ltd. - ABN: 19 060 819 516
* Sharp CCD 1/3”
* Focal Length 8mm
* Type: CS/Mount
* Variable Aperture
* AC adaptor 18V AC
only
$1995.00
E.A.O.E.
Shop 501Capital Centre
255 Pitt Street, SYDNEY NSW 2000
PO BOX Q43, SYDNEY NSW 1230
Ph: 02 9264 0717 Fax: 02 9264 0817
email: yager<at>mpx.com.au www.optionalpower.com.au
Mailorders - Cheques, Visa, Mastercard, Bankcard, Amex, Diners accepted. C.O.D. arranged.
August 2000 77
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions from
readers are welcome and will be paid for at standard rates.
Soldering iron
time-out
Have you ever left your soldering
iron on for days, having forgotten to
turn it off when you last used it? This
wastes power and it not good for the
soldering iron tip either.
This circuit will turn your soldering iron off if it is left in the stand
for more than 12 minutes and uses
Split supply with low
quiescent current
While it is relatively easy to use
a power op amp to provide a split
supply from a 12V battery, most
circuits have a quiescent current
of 20mA or more. This circuit uses
two op amps and two Darlington
transistors and cuts the quiescent
current to just a few milliamps.
78 Silicon Chip
an infrared beam to sense when the
iron is present.
Infrared LED1 is the light source
and this is sensed by infrared photo
diode D1. When the beam is cut, the
voltage at pin 3 of IC1a goes high and
this causes the internal open-collector
transistor at pin 1 to turn off, allowing
the 220µF capacitor to charge via the
1MΩ resistor.
When the voltage at pin 6 ultimate-
Each op amp in conjunction
with its corresponding Darlington
transistor acts like a high power
voltage follower. Assuming a 12V
supply, pin 5 of IC1b is biased to
+.029V while pin 3 of IC1a is biased
to -0.029V, with respect to the 0V
split. This means that only one
Darlington transistor can conduct
at any time and gives a small “dead
band”.
ly rises above that set at pin 5 by the
voltage divider, the output at pin
7 goes low to turn off transistor Q1
and the relay and this turns off the
soldering iron.
LED1 and D1 should be mounted in
tubes on either side of the soldering
iron stand so that the beam is broken
when the iron is present.
Tom Hughes,
Rangiora, NZ ($40)
Despite this, the output voltage
of 0V will vary by a negligible
amount, even with fast switching
loads.
IC1 can be any frequency compensated dual op amp, such as
LM833, LM4558, LM358, etc. The
Darlington transistor pairs can be
BD679/680, TIP142/147 etc.
Manfred Schmidt,
Edgewater, WA. ($35)
Off-hook indicator
has better visibility
The Off-Hook Indicator for Tele
phones published in the January
2000 issue has been quite popular but
one drawback is that it has a narrow
viewing angle due to the use of a highbrightness LED.
This version of the circuit overcomes that problem. The LM3909 LED
flasher circuit has been modified to
drive up to four LEDs. Depending on
how these are mounted; eg, at different
angles or on different sides of the box,
it can produce a very wide viewing
angle and thus good visibility.
Briefly, the changes to the LM3909
circuit involve bigger capacitors,
driving the four LEDs separately via
individual 39Ω current limiting resistors and the addition of a further
two resistors. The extra components
will need to “hang off” the existing PC
board or you could wire up the whole
circuit on a piece of Veroboard.
The modified circuit consumes
about 2mA when flashing the lamps at
1.3Hz. The original circuit consumed
about 0.3mA (flashing at about 1.1Hz).
With this circuit it is able to run for
about an hour. A rechargeable D cell
could increase this back to the original
seven hours but this would require the
220kΩ resistor to be reduced to 100kΩ
to give an increased charging current
of 0.4mA.
Michael Ong Yong Kin,
City Beach, WA. ($35)
Silicon Chip
Binders
$12.95
Mains power for battery-operated clock
While most clocks these days
are crystal-controlled and powered
from a single 1.5V cell, this circuit
provides for mains-power so that
the cell can be dispensed with if
you want. On the other hand, if the
cell is included, the clock will keep
going if there is a blackout.
As shown on the circuit, power
WANTED!
is derived from a 9VAC or 12VAC
plugpack via diode D1 and the
220µF capacitor. This is regulated
down to around 1.8V by LED1 and
this is further reduced by Schottky
diode D2.
The third diode, D3, is included
to insure that the battery is not
charged by the DC supply. The LED
flashes each time the clock ticks.
C. D. Vickers,
Elizabeth Downs, SA. ($20)
PLUS $
5 P&P
AUST.
ONLY
Just fill in & mail the handy order
form in this issue; or fax (02) 9979
6503; or ring (02) 9979 5644 & quote
your credit card number.
YOUR CIRCUITS AND PROJECTS!
If you have a scathingly brilliant, original circuit that you’d like to share with the world – and make some money as well –
send it in to us. We’ll pay up to $100 for a really good idea but there are a few conditions: • It must be your own
work • It must not have been published or submitted elsewhere • It must be something other SILICON CHIP readers
would find interesting.
Send to: The Publisher, SILICON CHIP, PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097.
email: silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au Phone: (02) 9979 5644
August 2000 79
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
Weighty MCSE tomes
from DSE
Heavy in both senses of the word
– content as well as mass – are these
three Microsoft Certified Systems
Engineer (MCSE) certification
textbooks available through Dick
Smith Electronics stores.
The MCSE is a globally-recognised examination and certification system in which the candidate
has demonstrated proficiency in a
variety of Microsoft’s software and
firm-ware. Such qualifications are
often a pre-requisite to employment
in the technical computer areas and
successful candidates are much
sought-after. Candidates must pass
four required and two elective exams
to attain MCSE status.
While the books are not written
by Microsoft they are certified as
“approved study guides” by the juggernaut.
The three books on offer from DSE
are the Cat B-7300 720-page Windows
NT Workstation 4.0 study guide (leading to exam 70-73), the Cat B-7302
550-page Networking Essentials
study guide (exam 70-58) and the Cat
B-7301 700-page Windows NT Server
4.0 study guide (exam 70-67).
Each of the titles also includes a
4-decade RF
probe
CD-ROM containing over 1000 sample exam questions, interactive exams
and even the option of studying the
entire book on screen using your web
browser.
The books are all priced at $79.95
(pre-GST) which is very good value for money – and not just for the
content.
When you take into account the US
price of $49.99 – on exchange rates
alone, without freight or other import
costs, this should make the price in
Australia well over $85.00.
Contact:
Dick Smith Electronics (all stores)
Website: www.dse.com.au
For more information on the MCSE,
visit www.microsoft.com/train_cert/
Aptly-named RF Probes Pty Ltd have introduced a passive RF probe, the RFP 5401A, for
the measurement of in-circuit RF voltages.
It has a sensitivity of 10mV and a frequency
response of 100kHz to 750MHz (or to 1GHz
or more with reduced sensitivity). Linearity is
500mV out for 500mV in <at> 1MHz (typical)
while the maximum input permissible is 70V
RMS (100V pk).
With a fine, high tensile steel probe tip the
RFP5401A is suitable for probing surface
mount components or fine PC board tracks
and pads with no blunting after repeated
applications. It has a ground lead (mandatory
for high frequencies) and output leads with
standard banana plugs for direct connection
to any standard digital multimeter on a DC
volts range (with an input impedance of
10MΩ or greater).
Contact:
RF Probes Pty Ltd
PO Box 6, Greensborough Vic 3088
Phone: (03) 9432 1936
Fax:
(03) 9444 7750
Email:
sales<at>rfprobes.com.au
Website: www.rfprobes.com.au
Oops!
“When there's a bargain, word soon
gets around…”
We said that back in the July issue of
SILICON CHIP, where we featured the $50
home satellite TV system from Av-Comm.
Their switchboard went into meltdown
mode microseconds after the magazine
went on sale. All 400 systems that Garry
Cratt had managed to get hold of were sold
out in just four days! Yes, 400!
He left a message on his answering
machine telling customers this – but was
still receiving faxed orders at the rate of
about 50 a day as this issue went to press.
We realise, of course, that means there
are many disappointed readers – we all
dramatically underestimated the incredible
demand the article would produce.
80 Silicon Chip
While there are no more $50 systems left,
to try to keep faith with readers Garry searched
hard and found some much newer, recently
decomissioned analog systems. The price is
a lot higher – $250 each inc GST, plus p&p –
but this gets you a much more modern analog
receiver (as pictured) in as-new condition and
a brand new 85cm offset dish. The receiver,
by the way, offers stereo audio, RF output
as well as video/audio and has a remote
control.
You’d have to agree that’s pretty good
value for money – not quite as good as
$50, but good nevertheless!
Once again, stocks are quite limited
so if you missed out last time, you know
what to do.
Run, don’t walk to your fax machine or
computer and order your system(s) – fax
number is (02) 9939 4376 or email (cgarry
<at>avcomm.com.au). No phone orders will
be accepted – they’re too busy sending
out satellite systems to talk on the phone!
Of course, you can also order by snail
mail (Av-Comm Pty Ltd, PO Box 225,
Balgowlah NSW 2093). Good luck!
New range of pro video batteries, chargers
Premier Batteries has released a
range of “NPI” high performance batteries intended to replace the manufacturer’s cells in professional broadcast
cameras and similar demanding equipment – at a much lower cost than the
original. Higher levels of performance
are also achieved.
The packs are 12V or 13.2V and
range in capacity from 1.8Ah in Nickel
Cadmium to 3.8Ah in Nickel Metal
Hydride. Extended running times are
achieved using packs fitted with the
latest high-capacity cells.
For safety and performance, all high
capacity packs are fitted with excess
temperature or current protection.
The NPI Professional range are
compatible with the range of video application chargers – System 90, IQfive
and 10 Charger/Ananlysers.
Premier Batteries offer a broad range
of replacement batteries and cells to
suit a huge variety of equipment.
Contact:
Premier Batteries
Unit 19, 15 Childs Rd, Chipping Norton
NSW 2170.
Phone:
(02) 9755 1845
Fax:
(02) 9755 1354
Email:
premierbat<at>one.net.au
website: www.livenet.com.au/premier
Mini worker works – cheaply!
Most hobbyists and
workshops have a reasonable selection of
power tools. But there
are times when the
power drill or angle
grinder simply isn’t
appropriate – either
because their use would be overkill or
just because small size matters. Drilling PC boards is one example which
springs to mind.
This tiny tool from Jaycar could be
exactly the right tool for a wide variety
of small jobs – drilling,
shaping, smoothing,
grinding – and more.
It’s just the right shape
and weight to hold in
one hand, gripped like
an oversize pen. Its
powerful motor spins
at around 14,000 rpm from a 12-18V
DC supply (nominally 12V <at> 500mA).
A 3.5mm socket is provided at the
back end for power which could come
from a car battery, a workshop or lab
bench supply or even a plug-pack with
TOROIDAL TRANSFORMERS
FOR SILICON CHIP AMPLIFIERS
15W CLASS A AMPLIFIER
80VA for single channel monoblock
240:2x21V/1.9A
160VA for amplifier as published
240:2x21V/3.8A
160VA low flux design + flux band
240:2x21V/3.8A
160VA low flux design + flux band
240:2x42Vct/1.9A
ULTRA LOW THD 100W AMPLIFIER
160VA for single channel monoblock
240:2x35V/2.25A + 2x50V/0.1A
300VA for dual channel amplifier
240:2x35V/4.5A + 2x50V/0.1A
$35.45
$42.50
$65.90
$74.40
$50.70
$60.45
500W MONO AMPLIFIER, as published
800VA
240:2x57V/7A
$134.50
All prices include WST. Freight extra.
HARBUCH ELECTRONICS PTY LTD
Ph 02 9476 5854 Fx 02 9476 3231
enough “grunt”.
The supplied grinding bit is said to
be ideal for rust cleaning, sharpening,
mould making and other types of metal
grinding. It is supplied with two collettype chucks which accommodate
shafts to 2.5mm.
The best part of all is the low price
– just $14.95 inc GST.
Contact:
Jaycar Electronics (all stores)
Phone: (02) 9743 5222
Fax:
(02) 9743 2066
email:
techstore<at>jaycar.com.au
website: www.jaycar.com.au
PropMan HF Propagation
Forecaster Program on CD
The newly updated Propman 2000 HF
Propagation Resource Manager program
from Rockwell Collins identifies and displays the best channels for an HF communications link to and from virtually any
points on the globe.
Operating in a graphical Windows environment (95/98/NT/2000), it dramatically
improves communications quality and reliability and is ideal
for any HF radio operation. Features include a real-time
plot update to user-changed HF link parameters (simplifies
complex HF propagation predictions), display of current
frequency summaries and recommendations, the ability to
track, analyse and store HF propagation for multiple user
radio site pairs and the ability to link degradation warnings.
The software, on CD-ROM, is available direct from Rockwell Collins in the US for $US99 (about $AU165 at press
time). You can find out much more about PropMan 2000 and
its features by visiting the PropMan website.
Contact:
Rockwell Collins PropMan Dept 120-130,
400 Collins Road NE, Cedar Rapids, Iowa 52498 USA.
Phone: (0011) 319 295 5100 Fax: (0011) 319 295 4777
Email:
collins<at>collins.rockwell.com
Website: www.collins.rockwell. com/gs/products/
August 2000 81
Hitachi’s “next-generation” DVD ROM and RAM drives
Hitachi claim their new DVD ROM and RAM drives,
due for release this month, will revolutionise the way
video and data is stored and could spell the end of tape
for storage and video.
The new GF-2000 DVD-RAM drive offers up to 9.4GB
capacity and 22.16Mbps data transfer rate (2.77Mbytes/
sec). According to Hitachi, this drive can double as a data
recorder and storage system, or as a video replay device,
as well as having full backward compatibility with older
generation RAM, ROM and CD drives.
Of particular note is the new drive which can read
either the standard 12cm DVD disks (same size as “normal” CDs) as well as the new mini 8cm video DVD disk
recently announced by Maxell.
Hitachi have also released a DVD ROM (read only)
which has a read capability of up to 12 times (depending
on format) and at forty times CD speed. It is also compatible
with single and double layered DVD ROM media, DVD-R,
CD-R, CD-RW and standard CD-ROM.
PICO data logging
EnviroMon, distributed by Emona
Instruments, is an extremely versatile,
expandable data logging and alarm
system, ideal for real time monitoring
of a wide range of parameters such as
temperature, humidity, pressure and
energy usage over large areas.
Applications include food storage
& preparation, medical sample storage, document archive/art storage,
horticulture, climatic monitoring,
computer rooms and energy management.
The logger that can store up to
15,000 readings taken at intervals
from one minute to four hours. It automatically displays the reading from
each sensor in turn and sounds an
internal alarm should a problem arise.
Detailed or summary reports can be
sent to a computer for long-term storage and graphical analysis. Back-up
batteries continues recording for up to
24 hours if the mains power fails. An
optional telephone auto dialler can be
programmed with a list of emergency
numbers that it will call when there
is a problem.
Each logger is supplied with EnviroMon for Windows software, which
is used to configure the system, download data to a computer, store data and
provide graphical analysis of data.
Contact:
Emona Instruments
Phone: (02) 9519-3933
Fax:
(02) 9550-1378
e-mail
testinst<at>emona.com.au
82 Silicon Chip
LE
Contact:
Hitachi Australia Ltd
13-15 Lyonpark Rd, North Ryde NSW 2113
Phone: (02) 9888 4100 Fax: (02) 9888 4188
Website: www.hitachi.com.au
Mitsubishi’s “no tape” time-lapse video recorder
Most time-lapse video recorders on the market
are simply adaptations of
conventional VCRs, with
all their limitations. Not
so the new Mitsubishi
DX-TL900E: it’s all digital.
Not just digital recording:
no tapes!
Some of the most advanced digital
recording features have been incorporated into the new recorder. High resolution playback (over 400 horizontal
lines) is possible thanks to the digital
technology using JPEG compression.
When close-ups of crucial areas of
security are required (cash registers,
for example) the recorder has an
electronic zoom function. It also has
a watermarking feature designed to
safeguard images.
The unit also incorporates a nine
camera input multiplexer which can
display all inputs in split screen for
non-simultaneous throughput and
camera feeds from 1, 4 or 9 cameras
on split screen sequential playback.
A 10GB hard disk is included for high
reliability and high speed operation,
with another three external hard
drives as options giving a massive
106GB total recording medium.
Different cameras can be programmed to record at various times of
the day using the Timer Program Link,
and the unit can perform backup and
copy operation without interrupting
recording. DDS, DVD-RAM or MO can
be used as the backup media.
Contact:
Mitsubishi Electric Australia
Phone: (02) 9684 7777
Fax:
(02 9898 0484
Website: www.mitsubishi
electric.com.au
Tiny, high pressure 12V liquid pump
Dick Smith Electronics have one of those
items which many people have wanted over
the years but have never known where to
go to get one! It’s a high pressure, 12V DC
pump which can be used for anything from
water to thin oil.
With a flow rate of three litres per minute
and a head of around two metres, the pump
is also ideal for garden water features and
other d-i-y applications.
The motor speed is 16,000
rpm and the pump draws
about 2A at 12V DC. Data
and application notes are
supplied with each unit.
They’re available at
all Dick Smith Electronics stores and DSE
PowerHouse stores
and DSE Mail Order for $19.95 inc GST.
ECTRONICSHOWCASELECT
3990
FULL RANGE $
ELECTROSTATIC
Now you can afford the legendary clarity,
transparency, depth and precision of an
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The new Vass ELS-5 is a full range electrostatic speaker, able to faithfully reproduce
frequencies from 40Hz-20kHz.
• 5 Year Warranty
• Wide range of custom finishes.
• Individually hand built & tested.
1/42-44 Garden Bvde, Dingley 3172
Pyramid subwoofer Ph 03 9558 0970 Fax 03 9558 0082
separately available
email: vass<at>hotkey.net.au
Do you want
YOUR product or service
showcased to
Australasia's
most important
electronics
marketplace?
CALL ME: RICK WINKLER
on (02) 9979 5644
and let me explain how cost effective
the SILICON CHIP ELECTRONICS
SHOWCASE can be for YOU!
EMC Technologies' internationally
recognised Electromagnetic
Compatibility (EMC) test facilities are fully
accredited for emissions, immunity and
safety standards.
EMC Technologies
Melbourne: (03) 9335 3333
Sydney: (02) 9899 4599
MicroZed Computers
GENUINE STAMP PRODUCTS
FROM
Scott Edwards Electronics
microEngineering Labs & others
Easy to learn, easy to use, sophisticated
CPU based controllers & peripherals.
PO Box 634, ARMIDALE 2350
(296 Cook’s Rd)
Ph (02) 6772 2777 – may time out to
Mobile 0409 036 775 Fax (02) 6772 8987
http://www.microzed.com.au
Most Credit Cards OK
M croGram Computers
August 2000 83
VINTAGE RADIO
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
The Astor RQ – the Lady’s
Handbag Radio
Back in the days of valve radios, portable sets
were a luxury item. They were expensive to buy
in the first place and they were even more
expensive to run. The Astor RQ set we look at
this month was even more of a rarity in that it
did not look like a radio.
When visiting a friend of mine recently, he brought out a lady’s handbag
which he said he was going to give
to me. I thought, “He’s having me on,
giving me a lady’s handbag. What’s
he up to?” As you can see from one of
the photographs it does indeed look
rather like a lady’s handbag. When the
bag was opened, an attractive compact
Astor portable radio was revealed.
Then I knew I wasn’t being conned.
When you think about it, the set
was probably meant to look like a
lady’s handbag, with a stout brown
leather case and a shoulder strap. As
with all advertising there is an aim
to entice various groups to purchase
their wares, and so it is in the radio
retailing business. This set, an Astor RQ, was produced in 1955 and
probably up until that time the main
emphasis had been on selling to the
man of the house.
The “Little Lady” got scant attention, particularly in the portable radio
market, and probably for two reasons.
Sets had been much too heavy for
women to comfortably carry and the
sales people hadn’t yet thought of
women as having a mind of their own
let alone an income of their own.
Astor obviously woke up to that
fact and produced this set that would
have been quite attractive to the more
independent young women of the day.
It opened up a whole new market.
How well Astor did with this model
and similar sets I don’t know. They
probably sold many thousands of
sets that they wouldn’t have sold if
Below: running the
set from a battery
eliminator is more
practical than using
batteries which don’t
last long at all.
84 Silicon Chip
Fig.1: the circuit of the Astor
RQ is typical of many 4-valve
sets of the era. Note the
unusual method of obtaining
grid bias for the 3S4 output
valve, taken from the
oscillator stage.
they had stuck to the “tried and true”
methods of sales presentation.
What’s in the handbag?
Compromises have to be taken in
some way or another when equipment
is miniaturised. By today’s standards
the set is large but in 1955 it was quite
small, around about the same bulk as
the Astor KQ which was produced
back in 1947. Several compromises
were made to ensure that a small set
of reasonable performance could be
achieved.
Small sets of this calibre rarely
had an RF stage which limited their
performance in country areas. However, there was a saving of LT and HT
current. Because these “personal”
portables were small, rather inadequate inbuilt loop aerials had to be
used. However, in this set, an 8" x
3/8" ferrite rod aerial/antenna was
installed, which was virtually an
industry standard for broadcast band
loopstick aerials from the mid 50s
onwards, and hence the signal pick
up is quite reasonable.
Batteries were a real problem. They
were heavy if they were to have reasonable life in the set, expensive and
bulky. However, in this set and in
much later sets, the smallest batteries available were used, with limited
operational life. In this set, they opted to use two D cells to supply the
250mA of filament current and a 467
67.5V battery to supply the 10mA of
HT current. A battery life of 50 hours
would probably be all that could have
been expected.
Much later an Australian-made
Kriesler transistor portable set used
a 286 battery which gave a claimed
operational life of 1000 hours. That
is some difference.
Back bias
Most of the later battery-powered
radios used back bias to obtain the
grid bias for the 3S4 or 3V4 output
valve. This was done by putting a
resistor between the negative terminal
of the HT battery and the set chassis.
The battery negative was taken via a
resistor to the grid of the 3S4/3V4 and
hence it had a bias of around -7V for a
3S4. The negative voltage was devel-
oped due to the current drain across
the battery negative to chassis resistor.
This did away with the separate
bias battery commonly used by sets
that used the 2V series valves.
There is one significant disadvantage of doing this, as the -7V bias is
taken away from the 67.5V total HT
voltage, which means in this case
that only around +60V is available
for operation of the set. How could
the circuit be arranged so that the full
HT voltage was available and still not
have to use a separate bias battery?
Astor got around this nicely. They
attached the 3S4 grid resistor to pin
4 of the 1R5 which is several volts
negative due to the operation of the
local oscillator; simple but effective.
With only 67.5V HT available the
maximum audio without noticeable
distortion is around 180 milliwatts,
and as the bat
teries discharge this
will decrease to below 100 milliwatts.
Taking into account the state of the
batteries and that the output transformer is around 66% efficient, an
output varying between 60 and 120
milliwatts is available to the speaker.
August 2000 85
will do the trick. So they can but they
will end up costing quite a few dollars
too. If you really want to use the set
as a portable this is probably the only
practical solution.
A l t e r n a t i v e l y, y o u n e e d a
mains-powered battery eliminator.
Battery sets using 1.4V and 2V valves
require up to 300mA at 1.4V or up to
1A at 2V and high tension voltages of
67.5V, 90V or 135V at less than 25mA.
I built a suitable supply several years
ago that will power dry battery radios
and some that use wet cells too. I used
this to power the set.
(Editor’s note: If there is sufficient
reader interest, SILICON CHIP could
present a suitable circuit).
Restoring the handbag radio
No, it’s not a lady’s handbag but a nice little 4-valve portable radio.
The speaker, a Rola 3C, is certainly
not very efficient so overall there is
not much chance of entertaining all
the neighbours with the set going full
bore. There is no disputing that sets of
this nature are “personal” portables.
What is the RQ like?
An initial look at the back of the
set indicated that it would be quite
reasonable to dismantle and restore.
Regrettably, on closer inspection a few
problems become apparent. If valve
replacement is the only requirement
for service, the 1R5 can be easily
replaced. If the other valves require
replacement a small screwdriver will
be needed to lever the valves out as
it isn’t possible to get fingers around
the valve envelopes.
More serious service work requires
the set to come out of the cabinet.
This is achieved by removing the
hand-span tuning knob and the off/
on-volume knob, then the speed nuts
on plastic spigots in the cabinet. My
experience of undoing these is that
the plastic spigots often break and
compounding this, long needle nosed
86 Silicon Chip
pliers are needed to turn the speed
nuts. Even taken with great care the
job can result in broken mounting
spigots.
Powering the set – how?
The difficulty of powering a battery set has probably caused many
collectors and restorers to bypass
battery-powered sets. Assuming a
suitable power supply is available,
caution is needed to ensure that high
voltage is not applied to the filaments
by mistake or through a measuring
probe slipping off a point being measured and shorting HT to the filament
line. Should this happen all these low
voltage and current filaments will be
burnt out. Indirectly heated valves
will stand a short term short circuit
without damage.
It isn’t hard to put a couple of D
cells in to provide the LT supply but
the HT supply is a different story.
467 type batteries are generally unobtainable and when they are, they
are extremely expensive and their
quality is often suspect. Some decide
that a string of eight 216 9V batteries
As mentioned earlier I had expected
the set to be easily overhauled but it
didn’t prove to be quite that easy. The
back came off easily; too easily like
many Astor sets with plastic cabinets.
With time and heat, the plastic warps
and the retaining clips no longer make
good contact. In fact, the previous
owner had used sticky tape to hold
the cabinet together.
The valves could be removed with
a little bit of persist
ence and each
was tested with an ohmmeter to make
sure that the filaments were still OK
– they all were. Check what voltage
and current your multimeter uses to
do its measurements before checking
battery valves. With the probes short
ed, the current must be under 50mA
or the valves filaments may be blown
while being tested.
To make the wiring and components
more accessible for inspection (and
replacement if need be) the chassis
had to come out. First of all the two
knobs were pulled off. Then the
speaker wires and an earth wire were
removed from the speaker frame as I
couldn’t remove the speed nuts from
the speaker mounts without breaking
the mounts.
Next, an attempt was made to
remove the three speed nuts securing the chassis to the cabinet. Two
responded and could be twisted 90°
with needle-nosed pliers and re
moved.
The third was a different kettle of
fish. When the speed nut was put on
it was just pressed on and locked in
place but there was no room to twist
it 90° as the tuning gang fouled it. So
it was a matter of undoing the three
ELECTRONIC VALVE &
TUBE COMPANY
It looks like this inside the case with the batteries installed.
screws holding the tuning gang to
the chassis and lifting it clear so that
the speed nut could be turned and
removed. The gang was then put back
in place and the mounting screws reattached, after which the chassis was
withdrawn for inspection.
I like to work with a circuit diagram
as it makes things just that much easier. Alas, this time I didn’t have one.
(As it happens, I did obtain one after
I had finished restoring the set). What
I did was to look and see if I had any
other portable 4-valve Astor circuits. I
fortunately came across the circuit of
the KQ which mechanically is quite
different and the design is nine years
older – but would you believe it is
virtually identical?
So the moral of the story is if you
don’t have the circuit of the set you’re
working on, look for a circuit by the
same manufacturer with a similar
valve lineup and doing a similar job.
Even other manufacturers’ circuits
for similar sets are better than nothing. This neat little set uses a 1R5
converter, 1T4 IF stage, 1S5 detector
and first audio stage, and a 3S4 for the
audio output.
The paper capacitors weren’t particularly leaky but battery radios are
not very tolerant of any leakage. The
replacement polyester capacitors were
roughly the same colour and size
which means they didn’t look out of
place. The resistors were all checked
and a few were found to have gone
high and out of tolerance, so they were
replaced too.
The rubber wiring insulation had
gone hard and cracked. I made sure I
didn’t shift it otherwise I would have
had to replace it all, not that there was
a lot in such a simple set.
Next to be checked was the speaker
transformer. These are often a source
of problems as they can go open-circuit in the primary. And sure enough,
it was open-circuit. One problem: the
replacement had to be smaller than
usual as the one in the set was quite
small. If it was too big the cabinet back
would not fit on. Fortunately I had a
suitable one.
It is interesting to note that the
speaker transformer frame is connected to the +67.5V HT rail. This
was done in an attempt to overcome
the problem of electrolysis caused by
small currents between the primary
and frame. Astor often did this with
their battery sets. Didn’t work this
time!
Having done all these things and
made sure everything visually looked
OK it was time to connect the dry
battery power supply. First, I double-checked that the power supply
was providing the correct voltages
(1.4V and 67.5V) and all was well. It
was a case of connecting the battery
clips to the supply via small jumper
clip leads.
As the set was still out of the case
at this stage, clip leads were also used
The Electronic Valve
& Tube Company
(EVATCO) stocks a
large range of valves for
vintage radio, amateur
radio, industrial and
small transmitting use.
Major current brands
such as SOV-TEK and
SVETLANA are always stocked and we
can supply some rare NOS (New - Old
stock) brands such as Mullard, Telefunken, RCA and Philips.
Hard to get high-voltage electrolytic
capacitors and valve sockets are also
available together with a wide range
of books covering valve specifications,
design and/or modification of valve
audio amplifiers.
PO Box 487 Drysdale, Victoria 3222.
Tel: (03) 5257 2297; Fax: (03) 5257 1773
Mob: 0417 143 167;
email: evatco<at>mira.net
New premises at: 76 Bluff Road,
St Leonards, Vic 3223
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P.C.B. Guillotine
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CARDS ACCEPTED
August 2000 87
This photo shows the set with the batteries removed from the case.
to connect the speaker to the receiver.
Now for the moment of truth: the
power was turned on – and I was
greeted with silence. I put the multimeter probe on the grid of the 3S4
and was greeted with a click and a
little bit of hum. So far so good, now
try the 1S5 grid – nothing. I’d tested
the filaments and found them all OK
but that doesn’t mean the valve will
work and this one didn’t.
I have a small supply of battery
valves so I rummaged around and
found one. After replacing the valve
(after turning the power off), I then
touched the grid with the probe and
got a healthy blurt out of the speaker –
still no stations though. I put the signal
generator output lead near the input
to the first IF transformer and wound
up the output while sweeping the gen
erator around 455kHz. In a moment,
the beautiful tone of the generator
came through. So the IF was OK.
I then tried forcing broadcast signals through the set by connecting
the generator lead over the insulated
lead coming from the loopstick aerial
but no go. Perhaps the 1R5 converter
was faulty. I put a fresh one in and the
noise level out of the receiver came up
and I could hear stations as I tuned
88 Silicon Chip
across the band. It looked like I had
overcome most of the set’s problems.
The next thing was to go over the
alignment. Some folk are reluctant
to touch the alignment and if the set
sounds reasonable it is left alone. I
knew that the oscillator and aerial
circuits were a bit out of alignment
so the IF would probably be too. I fed
a tone modulated signal on 455kHz
from the generator into the aerial
tuned circuit, at a level that produced
a noisy signal through the speaker. I
tweaked the four slugs in the IF trans
formers for peak performance – they
were only a little out of tune. It isn’t
possible to do this unless the chassis
is out of the cabinet.
From there it was necessary to
determine how far the align
ment
was out. The set is intended to tune
from 535kHz to 1610kHz. The slug
in the oscillator coil was adjusted so
that 535kHz was received with the
gang fully in mesh and the oscillator
trimmer was adjusted so that 1610kHz
was received with the gang fully open.
This was done as the oscillator slug
is difficult to access with the chassis
in the cabinet. Having got the oscillator frequency range approximately
correct, the chassis was then put back
into the cabinet. Now the control
knobs and the radio station scale were
fitted. With the station scale in place it
was possible to get the stations on the
correct places on the dial. Adjusting
the oscillator coil slug wasn’t easy but
it required very little to get it correctly
adjusted, and likewise the trimmer.
The aerial/antenna circuit was easy
to adjust. First, the small adjustable
coil on the loopstick was slid along
it for best performance at around
675kHz (2CO) and the aerial trimmer
adjusted at around 1400kHz for best
performance. As these do interact, you
need to go over the adjustments until
no improvement is observed. Always
try to do this with relatively weak
signals if you are doing it all by ear.
Finally, seal the trimmers, oscillator core and the sliding antenna coil
with a little beeswax or hobby glue to
make sure the adjustments don’t shift
with time. The IF adjustments were
reasonably firm and shouldn’t shift.
That was about it, other than giving
the cabinet a cut and polish. Due to the
warping, deep scratches and so forth
that happen to plastic cabinets, they
don’t come up to the high standards of
finish that we’ve come to expect with
wooden or Bakelite cabinets.
Summary
The Astor RQ was a nice little set,
not a tremendous performer but typical of most 4-valve portables of the
era. It filled a niche particularly for
women who wished to listen to what
they wanted, not dictated to by their
husband or boyfriend. Battery life
would not have been particularly good
and the cost of batteries would have
been high. As a simple set it was not
as well thought out for service as it
could have been.
Battery radios form a small but
important part of our radio history,
so even if they are not your cup of
tea some other collectors like them.
As batteries are either expensive or
unobtainable, running the sets as true
portables is not practical. Mains-operated battery eliminators are really
the only practical way to power sets
such as this.
Many people have thrown out their
battery valves as use
less. They are
much rarer than mains valves and due
to their relative fragility don’t last as
long, so don’t throw them out - give
them to someone who restores battery
SC
radios.
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Write to: Ask Silicon Chip, PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097.
Regulated supply for
LM3876 amplifier
I am in the process of building the
50W amplifier module based on the
LM3876, as published in the March
1994 issue. I intend to use this in my
study and have the 15W class-A amplifier in the living room. I have read
with interest about the 100W Ultra-LD
amplifier in the March & May 2000
issues but I like the simplicity of the
chip amplifier. Also, I do not need
the power.
My questions relate to the power
supply for the 50W amplifier. I would
like to use a regulated power supply.
Do you have a circuit or can I modify
the class-A amplifier power supply?
I understand that regulated power
supplies are better and would like to
go down this path. Can you assist? (D.
F., Sydney, NSW).
• There are unlikely to be any benefits in using a regulated power supply
with the LM3876. You will not get any
better distortion because there is no
way of separating the supply lines to
the small signal stages from the output stage (ie, there is only one supply
Speed alarm
for 1971 VW
I am writing to see if there is
an alternative sensor to the one
suggested in the Speed Alarm kit.
I purchased this item and thought
it would solve the speedometer
inaccuracy problem in my 1971 VW
beetle which has a speedometer in
miles/hour.
This kit appeared to have the
features I required; ie, a display
in km/h. My problem is that it
requires a sensor mounted on the
drive shaft but as you probably
know the VW doesn’t have a normal drive shaft, only rear axles
which have a diameter of 25-30
mm. I don’t think these axles rotate
at the same speed as a drive shaft
connection for each rail – pin 1 & 4).
Second, even if you could separate
the supply lines, the latent distortion
in the LM3876 is about an order of
magnitude worse than the Ultra-LD,
at high frequencies and about three
to four times worse at mid frequencies. You can compare our published
distortion curves from the LM3886
(virtually the same as the LM3876)
in the February 1995 issue with the
curves for the Ultra-LD amplifier in
the March and May 2000 issues.
The point about using regulated
supplies with a class AB amplifier
is that it only gives quite small improvements. Unless the amplifier
is inherently very good, there’s not
likely to be a benefit.
Apart from that, a regulated supply is quite a lot less efficient than
an unregulated supply and you do
not have the benefit of “headroom”
whereby the amplifier delivers more
power on transients than it does on
steady-state signals.
If you’re still keen to improve the
power supply for the LM3876, the best
way to do it is to double the size of
the filter capacitors; eg, increase from
and secondly, the diameter of the
drive shaft only allows a small
number of magnets which I feel
may be unsatisfactory.
Can you suggest an alternative
sensor? (D. O., via email).
• You can use a different speed
sensor. The Jaycar photo interrupter
(cat ZD-1901) could be used in conjunction with a rotating disk (driven by the speedo cable) which has
slots to interrupt the optical beam.
The circuit to connect the internal LED and phototransistor is
simple and was used in the rain
gauge as published in the June 2000
issue. It comprises a resistor in series with the LED and a resistor in
the transistor collector. The collector signal could then be applied to
the coil input for the Speed Alarm.
2200µF capacitors to 4700µF.
Finally, if you are determined to
persist with a regulated supply, you
can upgrade the circuit for the class-A
supply.
Ultrasonic pest eliminator for ants
I am currently having a problem
with ants around the home, mainly in
the ceiling. I have seen a unit on TV
that claims to get rid of pests using
what appears to be ultrasonics. Has
SILICON CHIP ever run any articles or
projects on the use of ultrasonics for
the removal of pests. If so, could you
tell me which volume the articles
appeared in. (M. P., via email).
• We have published a number of ultrasonic circuits to control the barking
of dogs (most recently in July 1999)
but as far as we know, ultrasonics
have absolutely no effect on insects.
In fact, one of the TV current affairs
programs did a good job of debunking
ultrasonic cockroach repellers several
years ago – it showed the cockroaches
even crawling all over the piezoelectric tweeters.
Replace points for
high energy ignition
A few years ago I built the original
High Energy Ignition kit as published
in the May 1988 issue of SILICON CHIP.
Installed into a Mazda 323, the unit
has performed flawlessly and I have
not replaced the points since.
Recently, I noticed that the “engine
speed unit” (tacho?) in the car was
not working and found that the dwell
extension of the ignition kit was the
culprit. Have you seen this before?
If so, do you have a modification for
the circuit?
I noticed, on your website, that
there are a few Notes & Errata on this
kit but I don’t have copies of those
issues. Can you help me at all? (D.
W., via email).
• We are bit concerned that you have
not replaced the points in all this
August 2000 89
Tacho doesn’t work
on Land Rover
I read with interest the article
about the new Digital Tachometer
in the April 2000 issue. I already
have the digital tacho described
in the August 1991 issue but I’m
attracted by the new design because
it is much smaller and easier to fit
into a car’s dash.
I originally fitted the older tacho
to my Holden-powered Land Rover.
The instrument performed faultlessly so long as I had a points-style
distributor triggering a SILICON CHIP
Transistor Assisted Ignition. I triggered it from the negative terminal
of the coil and all was fine.
Then I installed a Bosch reluctor distributor and coil as fitted
to Holden motors for a couple of
years in the early Commodores. The
tacho thereafter refused to register
anything. I checked the tacho in
another car; it worked fine.
So far as I know, the Bosch “black
box” is merely a potted circuit board
containing a big switching transistor and the associated circuitry to
drive it from the reluctor pickup. It
is a black resin slab with two leads
from the reluctor, one to ignition
+ve and one to coil -ve. Whether it
has the extended dwell feature of
time. What you will find is that the
rubbing block wears down until you
have virtually no gap at all. Unless
you have already done so, check the
points gap and if necessary, replace
the points.
Trouble with modified
class A amplifier
I have designed my own version of
the Class A amplifier with the power
transistors and drivers plus power
supply filtering on a separate board to
the other parts. The boards are joined
with pins. However, I am having a
problem setting the quiescent cur
rent. Every time power is supplied,
the 1.8Ω 5W resistors develop about
10V across them and then cook.
I have been over and over the design
and cannot find any faults. I suppose it
may be something in the actual layout,
though that received much attention
90 Silicon Chip
the TAI, I don’t know for sure but I
think it might.
I gave up as I did not have access to a suitable oscilloscope to
view the size and duration of the
voltages around the operating ignition system. A comparison with
the readings from a conventional
points ignition might have told an
interesting story.
Do you have any idea why the
tacho refused to work with the reluctor ignition? More to the point,
do you think that the new digital
tacho will work? Have you actually
tested it with an older reluctor type
ignition? (P. M., Mackay, Qld).
• The older Digital Tachometer
should work with reluctor style
ignition systems since the pickup
is from the coil primary as per
the points system. Possibly dwell
extension in the reluctor triggering
may produce a signal which is too
short for the tachometer circuit to
operate successfully. You could try
increasing the value of the .022µF
capacitor at the base of Q1 and decreasing the .01µF capacitor value
at the junction of the 33kΩ resistor
and 10kΩ resistor to ground at the
coil input.
The Digital Tachometer described
in April 2000 was tested with older
style reluctor ignitions.
during my design. (G. F., via email).
• It sounds as though you have a
problem with Q10, the quies
cent
current setting transistor. If it is open
circuit or its base bias resistors are
the wrong value etc, it can turn the
output stage full on. To check, short
the collector and emitter of Q10 with
a short clip lead. The current through
the 1.8Ω resistors should drop to zero.
If not, you could have a short some
where in the output stage.
this matter?
Also, I have an inductive pickup
from my old timing light which I can
use to get the input signal from the
number one spark plug lead. Is this
possible? Or can I modify the circuit
to use the inductive pickup?
As my car does not have an RPM
meter, I always had problems adjusting the idle speed. Therefore my main
purpose is to use this circuit as test
equipment rather than as a permanent
tachometer. (A. G. via email).
• The inductive pickup may operate
the digital tachometer when connected to the high voltage input. You can
only try it.
You also may be able to find the
connection to the coil primary by
checking the service manual for your
car. Many vehicles do have a tacho
signal output even though the car
does not have a tachometer. Information on this can also be obtained from
the service manual.
Nickel metal hydride
battery charger wanted
I am thinking of modifying the
battery charger you published in
October 1998 to recharge some metal
hydrides. I don’t know a lot about
metal hydrides so I was wondering
if you have done or are intending to
do an article on this topic. (D. C., via
email).
• We would not recommend the October 1998 design for charging nickel
metal hydride batteries. This design
was intended for lead acid batteries.
Nickel metal hydride (NiMH) batteries are very similar to NiCd types
but without the memory effect. They
require a charger which will sense
the dV/dt change at the end of charge.
We suggest that you have a look
at our Multi-Purpose Fast Charger
which we published in February &
March 1998.
12V neon
Mitsubishi has no pick- modulator kit
up point for tacho
I want to know a few things about
I recently constructed the Digital
Tachometer which was published
in the August 1991 issue of SILICON
C HIP . Unfortunately I could not
connect it to my Mitsubishi Lancer
because it has an internal ignition coil
situated inside the distributor. Could
you please give me some advice on
the 12V neon modulator for use with
subwoofers (May 1997).
Firstly, I wanted to connect the
unit using a guitar amplifier as the
signal source. The blurb on the DSE
website says that you hook it into
the subwoofer – does this mean that
the kit only applies itself to certain
signal ranges or it is only triggered by
the ranges put out by the subwoofer
amplifier? If you connect it straight
into a signal source, would it flash
for all frequency levels?
Secondly, instead of using one 12V
neon tube, would it be possible to
connect eight 1.5V LEDs to the unit?
Thirdly (and this is just to confirm),
any 12V DC power supply should run
it, right? (D. C., via email).
• You really need to refer to the
complete article to under
stand the
function of the circuit. We can supply
the back issue for $7.70 including
postage.
As designed, the circuit will not
respond to frequencies above 100Hz
but by reducing the 0.1µF capacitor at
the collector of Q1 you can improve
this. However, the circuit and the
neon tube itself inherently do not
have a fast signal response - it’s really
only intended for bass frequencies.
You could connect a string of LEDs
but you need a limiting resistor to set
the current. By the way, most LEDs
have a voltage drop across them of
around 2V so you could only use
about five, after allowing for the series
limiting resistor. Yes, you can use any
12V supply.
Mailbag – from page 25
said why? No wonder you give up
after a while.
I’m unable to recall how often on
a new installation a 3-phase blower
motor runs backwards; we all know
that swapping two phases will make
the motor rotate correctly but why
is it supplied in the wrong rotation?
I’ve no doubt there are excellent
electricians out there, but I despise
an organisation that allows the bad
apples to remain and reject those who
don’t do the apprenticeship but have
Notes & Errata
Simple Superhets, April 2000: the
circuit on page 61 has an error. The
grid of the 6GW8 triode should be
pin 1, not pin 3.
Ultra-LD 100W amplifier, March
& May 2000: to eliminate a notice
able thump from the speakers at
switch-off, we recommend that the
100µF capacitor connected to the
regulated -55V rail be increased to
220µF 63VW.
Digital Voltmeter For Cars, February 2000: when using the voltmeter
with 24V vehicles, the five 820Ω
resistors will become quite hot. To
alleviate this problem, we recommend replacing the 820Ω resistors
with 10 1.8kΩ 1W resistors. Five
can be installed on the PC board in
place of the original 820Ω resistors.
The other five can be installed underneath the PC board.
Alternatively, use a 150Ω 10W
wirewound resistor external to the
voltmeter in place of the five 820Ω
paralleled resistors which should be
replaced with a short or link. The
10W resistor must be placed on the
metal chassis of the vehicle using a
suitable skills and at least a much
better appreciation of AS3000. What
really scares me nowadays is we are
now letting these bad apples perform
communications work and I’d be
pretty sure that adherence to mandatory separations between mains and
comms is frequently disregarded. I’m
sure you all recall that GPOs used to
be available with integral TV sockets
until one day when an unsuspecting
person was killed while attempting
to rotate his aerial. These are illegal
now and in effect was prior recog
nition that some electricians cannot
clamp and the connections insulated. The wiring should be clamped
to the chassis to prevent breakage
from the resistor leads.
Low Distortion Audio Signal Generator, February & March 1999:
the published PC board (01402992)
shows a short between the 0.18µF
capacitor on switch S2 and the adjacent shield track. This was due to
a glitch in the conversion from the
original Protel file to an HPGL file
required for publishing. The overlay
diagram on page 64 of the March
issue shows the pattern correctly
without the glitch connection. The
Protel files sent to PC manufacturers
were correct.
Also the 12kΩ resistor connecting
between the LDR1 and VR3 should
be replaced with a parallel combination of a 560kΩ resistor and .0047µF
capacitor.
Some constructors are using
3000mCd red LEDs for LED1 and
LED2 with improved results. VR6
can be changed to 1kΩ to improve
the ease of square wave output
adjustment.
be trusted to properly terminate and
protect signal from mains cabling.
On my last approach to the Electrical Workers Board, I let them know
my background and offered to undertake any courses they considered
would raise my skill level to enable
myself to be registered as an electrician. The response was “it really
doesn’t matter what you do or don’t
know, the only way in is through an
apprenticeship.”
For similar reasons to the previous
correspondent, please do not publish
SC
my name.
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be
carried out according to the instructions in the articles. When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do
not accidentally come into contact with mains AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects
employing mains voltages or other high voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd
disclaims any liability for damages should anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of
SILICON CHIP magazine. Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any
liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims
any liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the Trade
Practices Act 1974 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are applicable.
August 2000 91
REFERENCE
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with 5 YEAR WARRANTY & BLEMISH
FREE CCD * PINHOLE IN PIR DETECTOR from $111 * COLOUR DSP PIN
in PIR CASE from $148 * MINI CAMS
from $64 * 420 Line from $83 with 5
YEAR WARRANTY & BLEMISH FREE
CCD * DSP COLOUR from $133 * 4
Ch Switcher from $78 * QUAD 1024
H-Pixels from $174 * COLOUR QUAD
from $401 * Auto Scanner from $113
* REMOTE PAN & TILT from $239
* DIGITAL PC VIDEO RECORDER
SOFTWARE & PCI CARD from $99 *
MULTIPLEXER 4 Ch from $640 * REMOTE DIAL-UP, PAGING, WEB-CAM
S/W & PCI CARD $199 * DIY PLUG-IN
20 metre AV Cable Sets from $18 !
UP TO 5 YEARS WARRANTY * OVERNIGHT DELIVERY *
www.allthings.com.au * T 08 9349 9413
SOLAR PANELS: 120 watt $995.00,
80 watt $650.00, 60 watt $510.00, 40
watt $395.00 (all with 25 year guarantee). UNBREAKABLE PANELS:
64 watt $550.00, 42 watt $420.00,
32 watt $340.00, 11 watt $190.00, 5
watt $120.00, 1.25 watt $80.00. WIND
GENERATORS: 400 watt $950.00.
INVERTERS: sinewave inverters, inverter/chargers, mod. Sinewave invert-
ROLA AUSTRALIA
PH/FAX (08) 8270 3175
WEB SITE WWW.BETTANET.NET.AU/GTD
CHECK OUR WEBSITE FOR DETAILS ON KITS AND
COMPONENTS
•
•
•
•
Silvertone’s RC Receiver
Still the best little performer available!
TRANSMITTER KITS AND MODULES
AUDIO MODULES
COMPUTER INTERFACE KITS
RADIO STATION AUDIO SOFTWARE
NEW: Our MP3-CD player in short form for $169 inc GST.
Includes the following: processor board, front panel display
and tactile keypad; just add a case, cables, 12V power supply
and a CD-ROM drive. Play CDs and up to 2600 MP3’s from a
CDR. Great for car or home.
Satellite TV Reception
International satellite
TV reception in your
home is now affordable.
Send for your free info
pack containing equipment catalog, satellite
lists, etc or call for appointment to view.
We can display all satellites from 76.5°
to 180°.
Still only $129.50 AM or $149.50 FM.
May be used with most ppm transmitters. This and many other radio control
products available from:
Silvertone Electronics, PO Box 580,
Riverwood 2210.
Phone/Fax (02) 9533 3517.
www.silvertone.com.au
AV-COMM P/L, 24/9 Powells Rd,
Brookvale, NSW 2100.
Tel: 02 9939 4377 or 9939 4378.
Fax: 9939 4376; www.avcomm.com.au
Positions At Jaycar
We are often looking for enthusiastic staff
for positions in our retail stores and head
office at Rhodes in Sydney. A genuine
interest in electronics is a necessity. Phone
02 9743 5222 for current vacancies.
ers, call with requirements. AUSTRALIA
WIDE DELIVERY (Free on orders over
$500.00). Note: prices DO NOT include GST. TASMAN ENERGY: (03)
6362 3050 Fax (03) 6362 3054.
Need prototype PC boards?
We have the solutions – we print electronics!
Four-day turnaround, less if urgent; Artwork from your own
positive or file; Through hole plating; Prompt postal service; 29
years technical experience; Inexpensive; Superb quality.
Printed Electronics, 12A Aristoc Rd,
Glen Waverley, Vic 3150.
Phone: (03) 9545 3722; Fax: (03) 9545 3561
Call Mike Lynch and check us out!
We are the best for low cost, small runs.
KITS KITS AND MORE KITS! Check
‘em out at www.ozitronics.com
TELEPHONE EXCHANGE SIMULATOR, SC February 1998. Test equipment without the cost of telephone lines.
Melbourne 9806 0110.
HOME CCTV Mono/Colour PAKS
Only! $113/$140. DIY Plug-In to TV/
VCR, 20 metre cable, Plug Pack &
Camera. www.allthings.com.au T (08)
9349 9413.
RCS HAS MOVED to 41 Arlewis St,
Chester Hill 2162 and is now open, with
full production soon. Tel (02) 9738 0330;
Fax 9738 0334. rcsradio<at>cia.com.au;
www.cia.com.au/rcsradio
DIY CCTV PAKS
4 Cameras & Switcher ............... $315
as above COLOUR ................... $419
4 Cams, Switcher/Monitor .......... $433
as above 14" Monitor ............... $461
4 Cams, QUAD & Monitor .......... $602
4 COLOUR & QUAD .................. $797
MORE at: www.allthings.com.au Fully Plug-In DIY Paks with all Cables
& Power Supplies ALSO PC Digital
Motion/Sound detection & activated
Video/Audio Recording systems 08
9349 9413.
KIT ASSEMBLY
ANY KITS assembled/repaired:
professional, speedy service. Phone
Neville Walker (07) 3857 2752.
WANTED
PERSON WITH EXPERIENCE / APTITUDE able to fault find & repair PCBs
– without diagrams. GENEROUS PKG
NEG. Tel John<at>AER (03) 9482 4958
0415 305 470.
August 2000 95
Silicon Chip Binders
Keep your copies safe, secure and
always available with SILICON CHIP
binders: they’re cheap insurance!
Advertising Index
Altronics................................. 66-68
REAL
VALUE
AT
Av-Comm Pty Ltd.........................95
PLUS P
&P
EMC Technologies.......................83
$12.95
Heavy board covers with
2-tone green vinyl covering
Dick Smith Electronics............. 8-15
Emona Instruments...................IBC
Each binder holds up to 14
issues so that you can include
catalogs
Evatco..........................................87
SILICON CHIP logo printed
in gold-coloured lettering on
spine & cover
Instant PCBs................................95
Harbuch Electronics....................81
Investment Technology................31
Jaycar ................................... 45-52
Price: $12.95 (includes GST)
plus $5.50 p&p each (available
Aust. only). Price includes GST.
Kalex............................................87
Order by phoning (02) 9979 5644 & quoting your credit card number;
or fax the details to (02) 9979 6503; or mail your order with cheque or
credit card details to Silicon Chip Publications, PO Box 139, Collaroy,
NSW 2097.
Kits-R-Us.....................................95
Microgram Computers..........3,OBC
MicroZed Computers...................83
Namlea Data Systems........... Insert
Oatley Electronics........................61
DON’T MISS
THE ’BUS
Do you feel left behind by the latest
advances in computer technology? Don’t
miss the bus: get the ’bus!
Includes articles on troubleshooting your
PC, installing and setting up computer
networks, hard disk drive upgrades,
clean installing Windows 98, CPU
upgrades, a basic introduction to Linux
plus much more.
Optional Power.......................37,77
www.siliconchip.com.au
SILICON
CHIP’S
132 Pages
9
$ 95 *
ISBN 0 95852291 X
09
9780958522910 09
9
780958
INC
LUD
ES
FEA
TUR
E
LIN
UX
A collection of computer features from the pages of SILICON
CHIP magazine
Protel ........................................IFC
Questronix...................................43
Rall Electronics............................83
REC Electronics..........................77
RobotOz......................................83
R.T.N............................................83
Hints o Tips o Upgrades o Fixes
Covers DOS, Windows 3.1, 95, 98, NT NO
W
o
AVA
DIRE ILABLE
C
SILIC T FROM
ON
just $ CHIP
125O
INC
RT
P&P
Note: price includes the GST.
HELP SAVE THE NIGHT SKY!
We are losing our heritage of starry night skies. Poor, inefficient
outdoor lighting is causing glare and “light pollution”. This wastes
energy and increases greenhouse gas emissions.
You can help by joining SYDNEY OUTDOOR LIGHTING IMPROVEMENT SOCIETY (SOLIS). SOLIS aims to educate and inform about
quality outdoor lighting and its benefits. We also lobby councils, government and other bodies to promote good lighting practice. SOLIS meetings
are held third Monday night of each month at Sydney Observatory.
Individual membership is $20 pa. Donations are also welcome. Cheques payable
to “SOLIS c/- NSAS”, PO Box 214, West Ryde 2114.
96 Silicon Chip
Printed Electronics...................... 95
522910
COMPUTER
OMNIBUS
ORDER NOW: Use the handy order form in this issue or call
(02) 9979 5644, 8.30-5.30 Mon-Fri with your credit card details.
Email: tpeters<at>pip.elm.mq.edu.au
Premier Batteries....................41,83
SC Electronics Testbench............69
SC EFI Tech Special....................44
Silicon Chip Binders....................96
Silicon Chip Bookshop........... 92-93
Silicon Chip Subscriptions...........53
Silvertone Electronics..................95
Smart Fastchargers.....................43
Solar Flair/Ecowatch....................94
Vass Electronics..........................83
_____________________________
PC Boards
Printed circuit boards for SILICON
CHIP projects are made by:
• RCS Radio Pty Ltd. Phone (02)
9738 0330. Fax (02) 9738 0334.
• Marday Services, PO Box 19-189,
Avondale, Auckland, NZ. Phone (09)
828 5730.
August 2000 97
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