This is only a preview of the December 2000 issue of Silicon Chip. You can view 33 of the 96 pages in the full issue, including the advertisments. For full access, purchase the issue for $10.00 or subscribe for access to the latest issues. Items relevant to "Build A Bright-White LED Torch":
Items relevant to "2-Channel Guitar Preamplifier, Pt.2: Digital Reverb":
Items relevant to "Driving An LCD From The Parallel Port":
Items relevant to "A Morse Clock - Look Mum, No Hands!":
Articles in this series:
Purchase a printed copy of this issue for $10.00. |
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.keysight.com
Contents
Vol.13, No.12; December 2000
Home Networking For Shared
Internet Access – Page 4.
FEATURES
4 Home Networking For Shared Internet Access
Home networking is now so easy that anyone can do it. Here’s how to set
up a small network with shared Internet access – by Greg Swain
26 Review: Agilent 54622D Mixed Signal Oscilloscope
It’s a high-performance analog scope and 16-channel logic analyser all
rolled into one. And it’s amazingly easy to drive – by Leo Simpson
78 Vintage Radio Special: Your First Restoration
Looking for a start in vintage radio? The AWA 467MA 4-valve mantle radio
is the ideal set – by Rodney Champness
92 Index To Volume 13
All the articles, projects and columns for the year 2000
PROJECTS TO BUILD
14 Build A Bright-White LED Torch
You get high brightness, a cool white light and very low battery drain. And
you’ll never have to replace the bulb again – by John Clarke
36 2-Channel Guitar Preamplifier, Pt.2: Digital Reverb
Add life to your music with this easy-to-build digital reverberation board. It
uses two digital delay chips to give realistic effects – by John Clarke
53 Driving An LCD From The Parallel Port
Agilent 54622D Mixed Signal
Oscilloscope – Page 26.
You build the module, then use the software to display messages or to program a thermometer/thermostat chip – by Peter Crowcroft & Frank Crivelli
68 A Morse Clock – Look Mum, No Hands!
If you want to know the time, you’ve got to learn Morse code – by Leon Williams
74 Protoboards: The Easy Way Into Electronics, Pt.4
Fun with comparators: this month we play with the LM393 “bog-standard”
dual comparator – by Leo Simpson
Digital Reverberation Board –
Page 36.
SPECIAL COLUMNS
60 Serviceman’s Log
History, symptoms & observations – by the TV Serviceman
78 Vintage Radio
The AWA 467MA: an ideal first restoration – by Rodney Champness
DEPARTMENTS
2
32
34
65
84
Publisher’s Letter
Mailbag
Circuit Notebook
Subscriptions Form
Product Showcase
86
87
93
94
96
Electronics Showcase
Ask Silicon Chip
Notes & Errata
Market Centre
Advertising Index
Driving An LCD From The Parallel
Port – Page 53.
December 2000 1
PUBLISHER’S LETTER
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Production Manager
Greg Swain, B.Sc.(Hons.)
Technical Staff
John Clarke, B.E.(Elec.)
Peter Smith
Ross Tester
Rick Walters
Reader Services
Ann Jenkinson
Advertising Enquiries
Rick Winkler
Phone (02) 9979 5644
Fax (02) 9979 6503
Mobile: 0408 34 6669
Regular Contributors
Brendan Akhurst
Louis Challis
Rodney Champness
Garry Cratt, VK2YBX
Julian Edgar, Dip.T.(Sec.), B.Ed
Mike Sheriff, B.Sc, VK2YFK
Philip Watson, MIREE, VK2ZPW
Bob Young
SILICON CHIP is published 12 times
a year by Silicon Chip Publications
Pty Ltd. ACN 003 205 490. ABN 49
003 205 490 All material copyright
©. No part of this publication may
be reproduced without the written
consent of the publisher.
Printing: Hannanprint, Dubbo,
NSW.
Distribution: Network Distribution
Company.
Subscription rates: $69.50 per
year in Australia. For overseas
rates, see the subscription page in
this issue.
Editorial & advertising offices:
Unit 8, 101 Darley St, Mona Vale,
NSW 2103. Postal address: PO Box
139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097.
Phone (02) 9979 5644.
Fax (02) 9979 6503.
E-mail: silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
ISSN 1030-2662
* Recommended and maximum price only.
2 Silicon Chip
Australia can do well
in the new economy
Over the last few months there has been much
moaning and groaning from the economic com
mentators about the state of Australia’s currency;
the beleaguered Aussie dollar. For months now, it
has been out of favour with the currency dealers
and commentators have been coming up with
reasons why.
One of the favourite arguments is that Aus
tralia is perceived as an “old economy” and that
since it does not have any large manufacturers
of IT (information technology) or telecom
munications equipment, no-one from overseas is interested in investing
here. In a further development of this argument, some commentators go
on to lambast the government for abolishing the Research & Development
grant scheme. The theory is that this reinforces the perception overseas that
Australia is stuck in the past as an “old” economy.
Well, most of these arguments are utter rubbish. For a start, as far as most
of the rest of the world is concerned, if they ever think about Australia at all,
it is in terms of kangaroos and koalas or worse, they confuse it with Austria.
The truth is that, relative to the economies of Japan, the USA or the major
economies of Europe, Australia just doesn’t get above the noise level. So in
the current climate when everything American is seen as the place to invest,
Australia is ignored and our dollar languishes.
And isn’t that great? It represents the greatest opportunity that Australia
has had for many years to grow its economy really strongly. Because our
dollar is low, it makes our exports much cheaper and many companies are
making great profits because of it.
At the same time, imports to Australia are dearer and that discourages
companies and individual consumers from buying as much overseas-sourced
products as they would have. And each month that translates into a current
account surplus rather than the current account deficit we have been running
almost forever. In the long term, that means that less of Australia’s gross
national product (GNP) goes to servicing our overseas debt. All of which is
good for our economy, in the long term. Remember that Japan grew enor
mously in those decades while its currency was deliberately undervalued.
To my way of thinking, the longer Australia has an undervalued currency,
the better.
And what about the “old” economy versus the “new” economy? Anyone
who has been following the sharemarket since April will know that most of
the “new economy” companies, mainly based in the USA, are not looking
too brilliant. And the picture in Asia, where they are strong in IT manufac
turing, is not so rosy either; so much for the benefits of having a strong IT
manufacturing base.
Australia has the best of both worlds. IT equipment is generally cheap and
Australian companies have invested heavily in it. We’re right up there with
the best in the world in that aspect, regardless of what the commentators
might say (most of them have never worked in real companies anyway).
And we can use our broad-based knowledge of IT systems to enhance our
ability to export goods and services to the rest of the world.
So when you hear yet another news bulletin about the parlous state of
the Australian currency remember that it is good news disguised – it will
do us good in the long run.
Leo Simpson
Infrared Data Suite for
Mobile Phones & PDA’s
The INFRARED DATA SUITE
plugs into the serial port of a
PC & the software provided
enables you to • Import contacts & phone numbers from a contact
manager such as Outlook, or any other program
supporting export via CSV files
• Create, edit & back up your personal phone book
on the PC & transfer the data to the phone or
PDA
• Create, edit & organize your scheduler on the PC
& download it to the phone
• Create, edit & send SMS short messages from
the PC to the phone ready for transmission
The data suite interfaces with most major brands
of mobile phones with IR capability.
$189.00
Cat. 8912 Infrared Data Suite
USB version without Data Suite software also
$139.00
available as Cat. 8923
New!
Programmable
POS Keyboard
Our new 111 key
programmable keyboard for POS systems
uses full travel Cherry mechanical switches. The
keys are arranged in two pads and are programmable with multiple scan codes which are stored in
2KB of EEPROM non-volatile memory. Includes a
track 1 & 2 magnetic card reader, other track combinations are available or alternatively without the
mcr. Another PS2 or AT keyboard can also be
attached.
Cat. 8913 Keyboard
$309.00
GST is here!
Manage it with
this great POS
Hardware Bundle
This latest bundle includes a very fast Samsung
parallel dot matrix printer (as required by Digitill
and Attache), a cash drawer and our very popular
CCD bar code scanner. The cash drawer connects
to, and is triggered from the printer. The CCD scanner connects between the keyboard and the computer (keyboard wedge).
$799.00
Cat. 8937 Printer parallel port
$799.00
Cat. 8938 Printer serial port
POS Keyboard 55 Key
Reprogrammable
Optional MCR
Telephone Line
Auto-Connect
Stylish POS keyboard with a
moulded slot on the right hand edge of the keyboard
for an optional magnetic card reader. All 55 keys are
programmable and configurable. There is an additional port for a standard keyboard.
$269.00
Cat. 8922 55 key Keyboard
Look Mum - No Wires
& 11Mbps!
Scenario 1: Set up a LAN of
wireless networked PC’s.
Connect notebooks &/or PC’s in difficult to
wire environments such as
historic buildings or frequently changing
environments in retail shops, etc.
Scenario 2: Provide access to corporate
facilities such as email and data bases for
mobile workers e.g. doctors and sales staff.
Scenario 3: LAN interconnection for point-topoint link e.g. building to building.
$1,249.00
Cat. 11339 Access point
Cat. 11340 PCMCIA station adapter $559.00
The missing link
The Microgram 11808
audio-video RF link with
infra red repeater allows you
to send high quality colour
video and stereo audio from
one room to another and
control the source with your existing remote without
wires! Signal penetrates walls, doors, ceilings and
floors with an A/V signal range of 100M. Three separate channels allows up to 3 transmitter/receiver
pairs to operate simultaneously. Comes complete
with 2.4GHz transmitter & receiver.
$236.00
Cat. 11808 AV RF Link
Affordable Web-Based Training
A whole range of courses are available!
Including WIN 2000, Lotus Notes R5, Home
Business, Motivation, Internet Information Server 4
and MCSE Series.
Full details at www.tol.com.au
Allows 2 separate telephone devices to share a
single telephone line. Both
connected devices are able to send (make outgoing calls) & either can receive incoming calls.
Operation is fully automatic & can be fitted to any
existing fax or voice line. "Barge-in" protection is
provided to ensure that one device cannot interrup
the other.
Cat. 22002 Auto-Connect
$190.00
Remote Device Activators
Allows electrical appliances to be
switched on or off by using your
normal telephone line.
Cat. 19002 Activator for one device
Cat. 19004 240V Power Control Unit
Cat. 19005 Activator for two devices
Cat. 19006 PC reset unit
$182.00
$109.00
$229.00
$45.25
PC CardBus Sockets
Transfer your PC CardBus
(32 bit) and PCMCIA (16
bit) based data to your
desktop PC. This "drive"
has two slots and supports
Type I, Type II and Type III PC Cards. Software
support is included for Win 9X, NT and 2000.
Please note that for technical reasons, the 32 bit
slot is not available with front access.
$259.00
Cat. 6523 PC CardBus
Programmable
Keypads
Store multiple keystrokes or complex
commands under
one key. The keycaps are easily
removable to allow
custom legends. Connects to PS/2 or AT motherboards, or there is a USB model available.
Connect as a keyboard wedge for programming.
$251.00
Cat. 8904 20 Key for PS/2 or AT
$289.00
Cat. 8933 20 Key for USB port
$429.00
Cat. 8934 58 Key for PS/2
$429.00
Cat. 8935 58 Key for USB port
See review in October issue
of Electronics Australia
Online catalogue & shop at www.mgram.com.au
Phone: (02) 4389 8444
info<at>mgram.com.au
Fax: (02) 4389 8388
Australia-Wide Express Courier...$11 (3kg max.)
We welcome Bankcard Mastercard VISA - NO SURCHARGE!
Unit 1, 14 Bon Mace Close, Berkeley Vale NSW 2261
FreeFax 1 800 625 777
Vamtest Pty Ltd trading as MicroGram Computers ABN 60 003 062 100
Web site:
mgram.com.au
FreeFax 1 800 625 777
MGRM1200
Dealer
Enquiries Welcome!
sales<at>mgram.com.au
Home Networking
Plus Shared
Internet Access
BY GREG SWAIN
Networking is a great idea if you
have two or more computers. It
lets you exchange files, share
resources such as printers and
even set up shared Internet access
via a single phone line. Here’s
how to build your own home or
small office network with shared
Internet access.
4 Silicon Chip
D
ESPITE ITS OBVIOUS attractions, most people regard comput
er networking as just too
difficult. But while that may have been
true once, it’s now so easy that almost
anyone can do it.
In the past, you had to know about
tricky configuration setups for net
work interface cards (NICs), to avoid
clashes with other hardware. You
also had to know about networking
protocols, setting up file and printer
sharing, assigning network addresses
and “mapping” drives.
And as for allowing computers on
a network to use a single modem for
shared Internet access ... well, forget
it!
Not any more! Home or small office
networking is now almost a “no-brain
er” thanks to plug and play (PnP)
hardware and the networking wizards
now included in Windows 98SE and
Windows Me. What’s more, setting
up shared Internet access via a single
telephone line is child’s play.
If you have more than one comput
Fig.1: a typical small network setup. All
the PCs on the network are connected to
a central hub and the machine with the
modem functions as the “gateway” to the
Internet. Note that each PC is assigned a
different IP address.
er, a network makes a lot of sense. It
allows you to easily exchange files
and share resources such as printers,
disk drives and modems. No longer
do you have to transfer files between
PCs using removable disks or swap
cables about when you want to print
something.
As far as each “client” PC on a net
work is concerned, it looks as though
shared resources such as printers,
folders and even entire disk drives
are directly connected to it. You
can even “map” drives on another
machine so that they look like local
drives. This can be very useful if
you want to share a CD-ROM drive
between two or more machines, for
example.
Installing The Hub & Network Cards
1
Switch off the power,
remove the cover and
install a network interface
card (NIC) into a spare
motherboard PCI slot on
each machine. Make sure
that the card is seated
properly in the slot. When
the machine is rebooted,
you will be prompted to
install the drivers for the
network card.
2
Plug the Cat.5 cables
into the RJ45 sockets
on each of the network
cards in the computers.
The other end of each
cable is then connected
to the hub (see below),
which forms the central
point of the network
Internet sharing
OK, enough of the file and printer
sharing stuff. For many people, the
main reason for wanting a network is
to provide a shared Internet connec
tion via a single phone line (or cable
modem).
Until recently, this also required
the purchase of additional software or
hardware. That changed when Micro
soft included Internet Connection
Sharing (ICS) in Windows 98 Second
Edition (SE) and, subsequently, in
Windows 2000 and Windows Me. ICS
is easy to set up and allows two or
more users on a network to access the
Internet simultaneously via a single
connection.
Before setting up ICS, all the com
puters on the network must have net
3
The cables from the
network cards are
plugged into the individual ports of the hub.
The 5-port NetGear hub
shown here is a little unusual in that the ports are all
on the front panel – handy
if you want fast access
to the cables. Most hubs
have the ports at the back.
December 2000 5
Fig.2: click the Device Manager tab in
the System Properties dialog box of
each PC to confirm that the network
card drivers have been correctly
installed. A yellow exclamation mark
indicates a problem.
work interface cards installed. Internet
Connection Sharing is then installed
on the “host” machine (ie, the one with
the modem). This configures the host
machine and also creates a setup disk
which is used to configure the “client”
machines.
Once this has been done, the clients
can all access the Internet through
the PC with the Internet Connection
Sharing. Basically, the host machine
acts as a “gateway” – when a client
machine requests Internet access, the
host machine automatically dials out,
makes the connection to the Internet
and then relays the data back and forth
between the two (see Fig.1).
Without getting too technical, Inter
net Connection Sharing uses the TCP/
IP networking protocol. It assigns a
fixed IP address (192.168.0.1) to the
Fig.3: the Network properties dialog
box shows whether or not Internet
Connection Sharing (ICS) has been
installed on the host machine.
host machine and also sets up a DHCP
(Dynamic Host Configuration Proto
col) service that automatically assigns
IP addresses to the client machines.
Don’t worry if these terms don’t
mean much to you – the ICS wizard
does all the setup for the computers
on your network, so you don’t have
to know anything about IP addressing.
Note that ICS is not installed on the
client machines. This means that the
clients can run earlier operating sys
tems such as Windows 95, Windows
98 or even Windows NT on the clients,
although an NT box will require man
ual configuration.
Installing the network
To set up a basic network, you
need a hub, a network interface card
for each PC, and some Cat.5 cables
Fig.4: the Home Networking Wizard in Windows Me is accessed via the Start
menu. Alternatively, if you are using Windows 98SE, you have to run the
Internet Connection Sharing Wizard.
6 Silicon Chip
(fitted with RJ-45 connectors) for the
connections between the cards and
the hub.
Fig.1 shows a typical network set
up for a home or small office. This is
known as a “star” configuration – the
hub provides a central connection
point for the network, with the con
nections radiating out to the PCs. The
advantage of this arrangement is that
a problem in one device doesn’t affect
other users on the network.
If you’re just starting out, consider
buying a network starter kit. This will
include all the parts needed to network
two PCs, including a couple of network
cards, the cables and a 4-port or 5-port
hub. If you want to connect more that
two computers, it’s just a matter of
purchasing additional network cards
and cables.
One thing to watch out for is the
speed of the hub. For most small
networks, a 10Mb/s hub will do the
job but if you regularly move large
amounts of data, a 100Mb/s hub will
really speed things up. Note that
most 100Mb/s hubs will automati
cally switch down to 10Mb/s when
communicating with 10Mb/s network
cards.
Want to save some money? Well,
you don’t really need a hub for a
2-computer network. Instead, you
can directly connect the two network
cards together using a special Cat.5
crossover cable. Provided you’re using
100Mb/s network cards, this really is
the cheapest route to a fast network.
Putting the network together is a
breeze – it’s just a matter of installing
a network card in a vacant slot in each
PC and then connecting them to the
hub. When the machines are reboot
ed, the cards will be automatically
detected (we’re assuming plug and
play cards here) and you just follow
the on-screen prompts to install the
driver software.
Once that’s done, it’s a good idea to
verify that the driver has been correctly
installed. You do that by double-click
ing the System icon in Control Panel,
clicking the Device Manager tab in
the System Properties dialog box and
then double-clicking on the “Network
adapters” entry.
If everything is OK, you should see
an entry for the network card similar
to that shown in Fig.2.
That’s it – the network is up and run
ning although you still have to share
resources and set up shared Internet
The Windows Me Home Networking Wizard
Fig.5: the host computer is configured here to connect to
the Internet via a dial-up adapter.
Fig.6: here’s how to configure the host machine to share
its Internet connection with the other computers
Fig.7: you can let the host connect to the Internet
auto-matically on demand from a client machine or you
can choose to connect manually.
Fig.8: each computer on the network is given a unique
name but the same workgroup name must always be used
for the machines to “see” each other.
Fig.9: this dialog box lets you set up file and printer
sharing.
Fig.10: the wizard creates a setup disk which is run on
the client machines.
December 2000 7
100Mb/s Network
Starter Kit
from MicroGram
IF YOU WANT your first network to
be fast, this budget-priced 100Mb/s
starter kit can deliver the goods.
Branded Edimax, it contains all the
parts required to network two PCs,
including a 5-port hub, two network
interface cards, two 4.5-metre cables,
access. But first, you have to install
ICS on the host machine.
Installing ICS
Internet Connection Sharing can
either be installed on the host com
puter when the operating system is
installed or it can be added later using
the Add/Remove Programs applet in
Control Panel.
If ICS has been installed, you’ll find
several entries referring to it in the
Network Properties dialog box (Fig.3)
– right click My Network Places (or
Network Neighborhood) and select
Properties to bring up this display.
Fig.12: once the network is up and running,
you can access shared
resources on remote
machines using My
Network Places or
Network Neighborhood.
8 Silicon Chip
a plugpack supply and a detailed
installation guide.
Note that the hub runs at 100Mb/s
only (ie, it cannot switch down to
10Mb/s) but that’s not a problem
if you stick to 10/100Mb/s network
cards. The fifth port can also function
Alternatively, double-click the Add/
Remove Programs icon in Control
Panel, click the Windows Setup tab,
click Internet Tools in Windows 98SE
or Communications in Windows Me
and then click Details.
There should be a tick in the Internet
Connection Sharing check box. If not,
select the check box and click OK to
install ICS.
Don’t install ICS on any of the client machines. If you do, you’ll get all
sorts of conflicts between the various
services that are set up and your net
work won’t work properly.
Basically, four key components are
as an uplink port for connecting to
another hub.
The kit (Cat. 11900) is priced at
$199.00 and is available from Micro
gram Computers – ph (02) 4389 8444;
email info<at>mgram.com.au; website
www.mgram.com.au
Fig.11: Network
Neighborhood is
renamed as “My
Network Places”
in Windows Me.
installed as part of ICS: (1) the DHCP
service; (2) a Domain Name System
(DNS) for resolving computer names
into IP addresses; (3) a Network Ad
dress Translator (NAT) which is used
to route the information between the
clients and the Internet; and (4) an
Autodialler.
However, you don’t have to know
anything about the technicalities to
get the system up and running. It’s
just a matter of installing ICS on the
host machine, then running the Home
Networking Wizard for Windows Me
or the Internet Connection Sharing
Wizard for Windows 98SE (or Win
dows 2000). However, unlike the
Home Networking Wizard, the ICS
wizard in Windows 98SE doesn’t set
up your network shares.
In either case, you get to the wizard
Fig.13: a folder or disk drive is shared
by right-clicking it in Windows
Ex-plorer and selecting “Sharing”
from the drop-down list.
via the Start menu – click Start, Pro
grams, Accessories, Communications.
Figs.5-10 show some of the dialog
boxes that appear. The Internet Con
nection Sharing setup comes first,
after which you move on to the local
network settings. Each computer
must be given a unique name but the
workgroup name must be the same
for all the computers on the network,
otherwise they won’t be able to “see”
each other – see Fig.8.
The next dialog box (Fig.9) sets up
file and printer sharing. By default, the
wizard lets you share the My Docu
ments folder only but you can share
additional folders (or even an entire
hard disk drive) later on.
If you don’t enter a password here,
a warning panel will appear when
you click the “Next” button to go to
the next dialog box. If you don’t want
a password, just click OK to close
the warning panel and then click the
“Next” button again and the wizard
will carry on as normal. Passwords
can be a real nuisance if no security
is required.
Finally, the wizard prompts you to
create the “Home Networking Setup”
disk so that you can set up the Win
dows 95/98 client machines on the
network.
Using a network
It doesn’t take rocket science to use a
network. You access shared resources
on other machines by double-clicking
“My Network Places” in Windows Me
or “Network Neighborhood” in Win
Fig.14: Windows Me features a greatly-improved “Help and Support” utility,
with a web-like interface. If you can’t get Internet Connection Sharing to work,
click Help in the Start menu and search for ICS to bring up this dialog box. You
can then use the troubleshooting wizard to solve the problem.
dows 95/98/98SE (Fig.12). Alterna
tively, you can access these resources
via Windows Explorer.
By default, the Home Networking
Wizard gives other users full access
rights to a shared My Documents
folder. If you want to change this
to read-only access, right-click the
My Documents folder in Windows
Explorer, select “Sharing” from the
drop-down list and select the settings
in the resulting dialog box (Fig.13).
Additional folders (or disk drives)
are shared in exactly the same man
ner.
By the way, it’s a good idea to keep
other users away from sensitive system
files, so avoid sharing an entire disk
drive if these files are present. By
sharing only selected resources, your
Assigning Letters to Shared Disk Drives & Folders
A useful “trick” in some
cases is to map a shared
folder or disk drive on a
remote computer to a drive
letter on a local machine.
This can be very useful if
you want to store files on a
single “work” disk or if you Fig.15: mapping drives across a network.
have only one CD-ROM
drive and want to share it
get an error message. This typically
across the network.
occurs because the other computer
A network drive is mapped by has not been switched on.
right-clicking My Network Places (or
Fortunately, there’s an easy anNetwork Neighborhood) and select- swer to this problem: double click
ing “Map Network Drive...” to bring up the Network icon in Control panel,
the dialog box shown in Fig.15. You choose “Client For Microsoft Netthen choose an unused drive letter works” from the list, click the Properand click the down arrow next to the ties button and select “Quick Logon”.
Path window and select the path to From now on, Windows will only log
the shared resource.
you onto the network when you boot
Note that if a machine cannot find a but won’t try to reconnect any network
mapped drive during boot-up, you will drives until you use them.
December 2000 9
NetGear Network Starter Kits – You’ll
Want One For Christmas Sharing!
NetGear’s network starter
kits include a modem
sharing utility that’s
similar to ICS. The
installation wizard also
sets up your disk drive
and printer shares.
NETGEAR’S NETWORK STARTER
KITS include everything you need set
up a small network in the home or
office. There are two models:
(1) the budget-priced SB105 which
comes with a 5-port 10Mb/s hub;
(2) the FB105 which boasts a 5-port
10/100Mb/s switch (a switch not only
functions as a hub but also filters
unnecessary traffic from individual
network segments to increase overall
speed).
critical system files will be invisible
to other computers on the network.
Checking ICS
You can test the Internet sharing
feature by launching Internet Explorer
on one of the clients, entering a web
address and clicking the “Go” button
(or pressing Enter). If everything is
working correctly, the modem on the
host machine should au
tomatically
dial out after a brief delay. The system
should then log onto your ISP and
download the requested page in the
usual manner.
In short, it should all work as if the
modem is directly connected to the
client machine.
A proviso – the autodial feature will
only work if you chose “Yes, connect to
the Internet automatically” (see Fig.7)
10 Silicon Chip
Both kits contain two 10/100MB/s
PCI NICs (network interface cards),
two 3-metre cables and an easy-tofollow fold-out guide. Also included
is a Drivers & Diagnostics Disk and
a CD-ROM which carries “FirstGear”
– a network installation wizard and
modem sharing program that’s similar
to Internet Connection Sharing. This
could be handy if you don’t have
Windows Me or Windows 98SE.
A feature of the NetGear hubs is
when you ran the Home Networking
Wizard. Alternatively, you can elect to
manually connect the host computer
before attempting Internet access
from the clients, to prevent automatic
dial-outs.
Once a connection has been made,
all clients have immediate access to
the Internet.
If it doesn’t work, check out Win
dows Me’s “Help” utility. In fact,
this is a much-improved feature of
Windows Me, with all the informa
tion arranged in web page format. To
troubleshoot your ICS installation,
click Start, Help and enter “ICS” in
the Search window to bring up a list
of topics – see Fig.14.
The low-down on TCP/IP
For most people, that will be the
that the ports are at the front. This
can be an advantage in some installations, as it provides easy access
to the cables. In addition, port 5 can
be switched to function as an uplink
port, for cascading to another hub.
NetGear Network Starter Kits are
available from computer stores and
electronics retailers. The suggested
retail price (including GST) for the
SB105 is $159.00, while the FB105
retails for $299.00.
end of the story since they now have
a network up and running with shared
Internet access. However, it’s handy to
learn a few networking basics so that
you can customise your setup or just
to understand how it works.
By default, Windows 98 and
Windows Me install the TCP/IP
networking protocol. TCP/IP stands
for “Transmission Control Protocol/
Internet Protocol” and it relies on each
computer being assigned a unique
number called an IP address. You can
think of an IP address as being akin to
a telephone number if you like.
An IP address consists of four
groups of numbers separated by deci
mal points, with each number having a
value between 0 and 255. In this case,
the ICS utility uses IP addresses rang
ing from 192.168.0.1 to 192.168.0.254.
These addresses belong to a group that
has been specifically reserved for local
area networks and cannot be accessed
via the Internet.
Another number called a “Subnet
Mask” is used in conjunc
tion with
the IP address to set the network ad
dress. By default, ICS uses a Subnet
Mask of 255.255.255.0 and this is the
same for all computers on the network
(otherwise, they won’t be able to “see”
each other).
In addition, a Subnet Mask of
255.255.255.0 means that the first
three numbers of each IP address must
be the same. If an IP address on one
machine is different in this respect,
it will have a different network ad
dress and will be invisible as far as
other computers on the network are
concerned.
When you install ICS, it automat
ically gives the host machine a fixed
(or “static”) IP address of 192.168.0.1
which is bound to the network adapt
er. At the same time, it also sets up a
DHCP (Dynamic Host Configuration
Protocol) service on the host machine.
This DHCP service then doles out IP
addresses to the client machines as
they boot up.
This means that the client machines
must be configured to obtain IP ad
dresses automatically (this is done by
the networking wizards). Typically,
the DHCP service issues the first cli
ent with 192.168.0.2, the second with
192.168.0.3 and so on.
Note that these are dynamic IP
addresses. This means that a client
computer can theoretically be issued
with a different IP address each time
it boots up.
By the way, the Home Networking
Wizard will guide you through the
process of installing TCP/IP if it hasn’t
already been installed on a client
machine (eg, Windows 95 installs the
NetBEUI protocol by default). If you’re
not using the wizard, you will have to
install TCP/IP yourself – double-click
the Network icon in Control Panel,
click Add, click Protocol, click Add,
select Microsoft, select TCP/IP and
click OK.
Assigning fixed IP addresses
For most people, using the DHCP
service is the easiest way to go. The
only wrinkle is that the host machine
must always be started first, otherwise
client computers will be unable to
obtain a valid IP address.
Checking Out The
Assigned IP Addresses
YOU CAN quickly check the IP address assigned to any client computer
by using the winipcfg utility that’s
automatically installed with Windows
95/98 & Windows Me. It’s started by
clicking Start, Run and typing winipcfg
in the Open field and clicking OK (for
NT, type ipconfig at the prompt in a
DOS window). You then click the down
arrow and select the NIC (not the PPP
adapter) to check the details.
This utility is particularly handy for
checking that a PC is correctly obtaining
an IP address from the DHCP server.
It also shows the address of the DHCP
server, the IP address lease period, the
subnet mask and default gateway, and
the DNS and WINS server addresses.
Alternatively, select the PPP Adapter
if you want to check the corresponding
The way around this is to give each
client a static IP address. To do this,
go to the TCP/IP Properties dialog box
Look Before You Leap!
Don’t try to set up ICS on a network that’s already running DHCP
and DNS services. If you do, the
services that are set up by ICS
will conflict with the established
services and the network will stop
functioning correctly.
The same comment applies
if the existing network relies on
installed gateways and/or fixed
IP addresses. Similarly, ICS could
cause all sorts of problems on a
network that’s running a proxy
server such as WinGate.
Fig.16: the winipcfg utility lets you
check assigned IP addresses.
details for this adaptor when the host
machine is connected to the Internet.
on each client by double-clicking the
TCP/IP entry for the network adapter
in the Network dialog box and follow
these steps:
(1) Select “Specify an IP address”
and enter a unique IP address in the
range 192.168.0.2 to 192.168.0.254 –
see Fig.17. Give each client a Subnet
Mask of 255.255.255.0.
(2) Click the Gateway tab and enter
a gateway address of 192.168.0.1 on
each client computer (Fig.18).
(3) Click the DNS tab, select Enable
DNS and enter a unique host name
(the name of the computer is recom
mended). Finally, enter an address of
192.168.0.1 for the DNS Server Search
Order (Fig.19).
Notice that both the Gateway ad
dress and the DNS Search Order ad
dress are simply the IP address of the
What About Broadband Connections?
Naturally, you can also use ICS if you have a broadband connection to
the Internet; eg, via a cable modem or ADSL (Asymmetrical Digital Subscriber Line) device. This will give several users simultaneous access to
the Internet without experiencing the dramatic slowdowns that occur with
a dial-up modem.
If you have a broadband connection, be sure to use two network adapters
(NICs) in the ICS host computer. One of these adapters connects to your
cable modem, while the other is connected to the network hub to provide
the LAN connection. Do not connect your broadband device directly to the
network hub as this will expose your network to the bad guys on the Internet.
December 2000 11
Assigning Fixed IP Addresses To The Clients
Fig.17
Fig.18
Fig.19
Step 1 – select “Specify an IP address”
and enter a unique IP address in the
range 192.168.0.2 to 192.168.0.254.
The Subnet Mask is 255.255.255.0.
STEP 2: Click the Gateway tab, enter
a new gateway address of 192.168.0.1
and click the Add button install it. Do
this for each client machine.
STEP 3: Click the DNS tab, select
Enable DNS and enter a unique host
name. Enter an address of 192.168.0.1
for the DNS Server Search Order.
host machine; ie, the host functions
as a “gateway” for the clients when
they access the Internet. For this rea
son, don’t change any of the network
settings on the host computer, as this
will stop the ICS service.
Once configured with static IP
addresses, the clients no longer go
looking for a DHCP server when they
boot. This can be handy if you don’t
wish to start the host machine and
will eliminate annoying delays as the
clients boot up. It also allows the client
machines to be networked without
starting the host machine.
Note, however, that the DHCP ser
vice still runs when the host computer
is on and will automatically issue
an IP address to any machine that
requests it.
Fig.20: stopping the DHCP service involves a registry hack. Drill down to the
folder shown here and change the “Enable DHCP” key from “1” to “0”.
12 Silicon Chip
Stopping the DHCP service
Going a step further, the DHCP ser
vice could well prove a nuisance if
you want to set up ICS on a network
that already has a DHCP server. In
that case, the two DHCP services will
conflict with each other.
Unfortunately, stopping the DHCP
service involves a registry hack. This
involves starting the Registry Editor,
drilling down through the keys to
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\System\
CurrentControlSet\Services\ICShar
ing\Settings\General and changing
the “EnableDHCP” key entry from “1”
to “0” (just right click the key, click
Modify and type in the new value).
When you subsequently restart the
computer, the DHCP service will be
disabled.
Be warned though – you play with
the registry at your own risk. For this
reason, it’s always a good idea to back
up the registry before making any
changes. The new System Restore
utility in Windows Me should also get
you out of any trouble.
Finally, note that ICS does not work
with some versions of AOL and even
if the host does connect, the clients
must have different AOL accounts for
SC
Internet access.
ATENTION TEACHERS AND GET YOUR OWN PIECE OF THE
EDUCATION INSTITUTIONS SYDNEY2000 OLYMPICS
A GREAT CHANCE TO BY SCHOOL
EQUIPMENT AT BARGAIN PRICES
SCIENTIFIC CALCULATOR
CASIO FX-39, old model
calculator with a bright green
8 digit Fluorescent display!,
works from 2 AA batteries,
good quantity: $18
SCIENTIFIC CALCULATOR
CASIO FX-D400, 16 digit, dot
matrix LCD displays alpha
characters along with values
and indicators, has replay
function, large quantity: $26
OLYMPIC
COLLECTABLES
SOME THING FOR
THAT SPECIAL
CHRISTMAS GIFT
SHIRTS, HATS, FLAGS,
BACK PACKS ETC.
CHECK OUT OUR WEB SITE
I EARLY DECEMBER WE WILL HAVE P C R E L A Y I N T E R F A C E K I T
SOME NEW LOW PRICED CAMERAS Features include 8 relays (2 are high
current contact ratting),Relay “ON”
FROM $50
indicating LEDs, onboard relays and DBVIDEO CAMERAS
The output of these cameras bellow is std 25 connector. Kit includes PCB, all
video & can be plugged into the "VIDEO onboard components and software. $40
IN" socket of any Australian std VCR, ...Optional 5M DB-25 to DB-25 cable:$10
video monitor or TV, or via an RF
Modulator to an Ant. Input. The B/W
cameras are Infra Red responsive & can
be used in total darkness with IR
Illumination.
CAMERA INTERFACE KIT
This kit provides power for a camera and a
RF modulated output for use with TV Ant.
inputs. Kit includes case, PCB, all onboard
components & therefore modulator.:$18
SUPER MICRO MONOCHROME CCD RADIO CONTROL CLOCK (350mm)
CAMERA MODULE:
As new. These clocks were used by the
N E W M A G N E T I C S H I E L D E D 9 to 14.5V DC, CCIR (50Hz, 625
SOBO during the Olympics. There
SPEAKERS
lines interlaced) Horizontal res:
extremely high accuracy is controlled by a
75mm 36W 8 ohm speakers with foam 380 TV lines, 1/3" CCD,
radio signal from the pager network.
edged poly cone 2 for $9
Sensitivity: 0.2Lux.
DIARY - ORGANIZER
Settings for all states. Ideal for use in radio
Auto-Iris. 23 X 60mm ,
CASIO JD-5000BK “My Magic Diary",
stations etc. where time keeping is
FREE FREE FREE
20grams. Inc. 3.7mm
displays messages in one of 5 languages,
important. :$250 LIMITED STOCK!!!
DICTATION SOFTWARE WITH
lens: (AR717R) $99
English / Italian / Spanish / German /
NEW
PC POWER SUPPLIES
French. Modes of operation include
THE PURCHASE
H I G H P E R F O R M A N C E
include Telphone Directory, Schedule,
OF ANY OF THESE
M O N O C H R O M E C C D C A M E R A We have Huge stocks of PC power
Calendar, Data Memo "Diary", Secret
supplies.
MOTHERBOARDS
MODULE: 7.5 to 14.5V
Memory area, Time
Ranging
Just ask for it when ordering.
DC (1.16W), Output
keeping, Alarm, Fortune
CCIR (50Hz,
in price
IBM VOICE TYPE 3.0 KIT:
Telling, Conversion,
625 lines interlaced)
from $15
This is a complete kit for
Calculator, Data ComCCD, Sensitivity 0.1
Check our
Voice Dictation. Incs.
munication. Has an easy
available Lux, Auto-Iris. 32mm
web site
software, manual & a
to understand main
separately squ. x 27mm. 20grams.
for more
noise cancelling desktop
menu with simple icons,
3.7mm lens: (AR732) $89
details
microphone. Brand new .
good quantity: $20
COLOUR CCD CAMERA MODULE FLIGHT FORCE PC JOYSTICK:
Software incs. VoiceType
SCIENTIFIC CALCULATOR
WITH AUDIO: 12V DC (2W), PAL (50Hz, This analogue joystick features
IBM Anti Virus & Jungle
CASIO FX-350D, 8+2
625 lines interlaced) Res. 330 TV
Book for Windows on CD.(IBMVT3) $16
4 fire buttons - with disable
digits, huge quantity:
lines, 1/3” CCD sensitivity
function for 2 player comp$15Ea.,
PENTIUM II MOTHERBOARD: Recent 3Lux. Has Auto-Iris.
atibility, Contoured handgrip,
buy 10 or more for
motherboard made for the latest CPU's. 38mm Squ. x 32mm
auto centering, independent
$13.50 Ea.
Std ATX form factor. Has 3 x (16-bit) ISA high & unit weighs
auto-fire & X & Y axis trim.
MORE CALCULATORS
slot, 4 x (32-bit) PCI slots, 1 x AGP slot & 3 20 grams. Inc. 3.7mm
Has a durable metal base
ON OUR WEB SITE
x DIMM (memory) slots, On-board 1 x lens: (ARCB21) $180
with a large suction cup for
PS/2
keyboard,
1
x
PS/2
mouse
socket,
2
x
NEW 6 CAN COOLER
H O U S E D M O N O C H R O M E C C D stability. This item is new & in
USB,
1
x
parallel,
2
x
serial
ports.
With
AS USED BY VOLUNTEERS DURING
its original retail box: (ZA0098) $25
setup manual & CD, IDE & FDD cables. CAMERA: 12V DC (1.16W) Output:
THE OLYMPICS. Soft, foldable $5
Brand new in original box. Accepts Intel CCIR (50Hz, 625
VHF-UHF TV ANTENNAS WITH
NEW HALOGEN LAMPS Osram brand Pentium II & Intel Celeron CPU's (NOT lines interlaced) Res.
ROTATOR
12V 5W $2.50
SUPPLIED) from 233 to 800MHz. The 380 TV lines, 1/3"
New & complete in original box.
CCD,
Sensitivity:
12v 20W $2.50
CPU socket is SLOT-1, S-370 CPU could
Features include high gain RF amp.
0.1Lux.
Auto-Iris.
This antenna would be ideal for homes,
8 O H M 7 5 m m M A G . - S H I E L D E D be use with a converter board (NOT 40 x 39 x 35mm high
SUPPLIED). Selectable 66 & 100MHz
units or caravans, weekenders and
SPEAKERS.
&
unit
weighs
13g
(AR830M)
$99
BUS speeds & a clock multiplier up to 8
camper vans where it can be setup or
Foam edged poly cone :2 for $9
times. Should accept Pentium III CPU's, MONOCHROME CCD VIDEO CAMERA: stowed away quickly. These antennas
JUMBO SERVO KIT...Use it with our on a 100MHz bus: (SP6XS) $90
B&W Camera built on a PCB with auto iris. come pre-wired with several meter of very
"German Motor" or a motor / gearbox of
(0.1 lux) 32 x 32 by 27mm. Input. Can be flexible co-ax ready to plug into there base
your choice. This kit is designed to work KTX PENTIUM II HEATSINK & FAN: focused sharply down to a few mm(useful control unit. Features inc. Quick G-clamp
just like a std R/C servo (with much greater Brand new in original
for people with visual impairment). Spec.: style antenna mount and could be fitted to
power) using 1-2mS pulse width. It has pack with clips &
Power req.: 10V to 12V <at> approx. 50mA. a balcony rail in seconds, rotary control
proportional control ie. if you move the power lead
Res: 400 lines approx. CCD: 1/3" (320 000 from base control unit or its ultra-sonic
joystick a little, the servo moves a little. It terminated with
remote control from the comfort of your
pixels). 30grams: with 60°
can be used with a std. R/C receiver or with a 3 pin plug.
armchair. The base control unit powered
(Pin Hole) lens fitted:
our servo controller kit. Some applications (HHSP2) $4.50
by 240Vac and comes with instructions for
(CA41L60)
inc... R/C models, Robotics, Gates & Others available. Check our web site
simple
$89, with 92° lens:
Doors, Fly by wire control (with our servo
conversion
(CA41L92) $89, with
controller) of things like Forward controls USED HAND BAR-CODE SCANNERS
to 12V
120° lens:(CA41L120)
for outboards (steering, throttle etc), Pan & Simply plugs
operation
$89, with 150° (Fish
tilt of Cameras, Antenna dishes etc. Could between your
as it dosn't
Eye lens) (CA41L150)$99
be used as a winch
keyboard and your
have local
60
SEC
VOICE
RECORDER
MODULE
for sails etc. with the
computer. Scanned barapprovals.
This
is
a
small
pre-built
module
and
can
be
addition of a multi
code data appears on your
We do not
set
from
1
long
up
to
8
short
messages.
turn pot & a winch
screen as if typed in by your
recommend connection
Features
include
eight
pushbuttons,
one
drum. Kit includes
keyboard. Great for stock control
to Australian
Operates
from
for
each
message.
PCB, all onboard parts, feedback pot & etc. Allow you to scan into any Windows,
mains
6Vdc
:$28....Optional
speaker
$1
suitable mini case. $35 Add $20 for DOS, or NT application. Options for hands
supply!:
geared German Motor.
free auto-scanning, preamble & post- BATTERIES
$29
amble addition are standard. Comes ready Used in the opening and closing
DUAL SERVO CONTROLLER KIT
This is designed to control R/C servos with to scan. The default settings have been ceremony to illuminate the props etc. We have too much test equipment.
1-2mS pulse with. Ideal for use with our pre-set for the most common bar code Limited stock. 2V per cell, all have Y2K we need to clear some to make way for
Jumbo Servo kit or with std servos. configurations. Reads the most popular date codes. Ideal for fishermen etc.
more. Check out our web site Great
Applications include testing of R/C servos bar codes including: -Code39 -Code 128 bargains at a fraction of the new cost. If
pan and tilt of cameras etc. Std. kit includes UCC-128 -UPC-A -UPCE: $27
it’s not on our web site then ring us.
PCB all onboard components, suitable
30 SEC VOICE RECORDER MODULE
case and pots. $14.... Std. Kit plus power
12V 8Aph $14
This is a pre-built module and is the size of
supply suitable for powering 1 Jumbo
a postage stamp. Ideal as a personal
Servo $24
reminder or could be integrated into other
MICRO SWITCHES
kits like the shop minder to say "welcome 12V 3.6 Aph gel cell
3 mini micro switch assembly
people to a shop", "mind your step", on a waist belt $15
on a 600mm cable
"please close the door".
with a small plug.
Operates from 6Vdc : $16
12V 8Aph with military
3 assemblies for $5
Optional speaker $1
style waist belts $17
www.oatleyelectronics.com Orders: Ph ( 02 ) 9584 3563 or 64, Fax 9584 3561, sales<at>oatleyelectronics.com, PO
Box 89 Oatley
NSW 2223
December
2000 13
major cards with ph. & fax orders, Post & Pack typically $7 Prices subject to change without notice ACN 068 740 081 ABN18068 740 081
SC_DEC_00
Build a LED torch
This is an idea whose time has come.
No longer will conventional torches with incandescent
bulbs be good enough. Now you can build a solid-state
torch with a white LED. You get high brightness with
cool white light, low battery drain and you will
NEVER ever have to replace a torch bulb again.
M
OST TORCHES
chew through
batteries as if
they own shares in Eveready (with apologies to
Mr Mallory and co). This
one won’t.
In fact, with intermittent
use, you could get a life approaching the “shelf life” of
the battery. You’ll certainly
get at least six times the
battery life of a normal twoAA-cell torch .
Our LED torch runs much,
much cooler than any torch you've
ever experienced. You’ve probably
seen the warnings on those superbright bulbs that have the capacity
to melt normal torches. We’re not
claiming that this is anything near
as bright but, by the same token, this
one runs cold to the touch.
Our LED torch uses just one “AA”
battery. That’s right, one only. And
what’s more, it will continue to shine
brightly for the whole of the battery
life – however long that is.
Ordinary torches start to dim (actually the light gets more and more
14 Silicon
ilicon C
Chip
hip
14 S
Design by JOHN CLARKE
yellow and loses intensity) as
soon as the battery voltage starts
to drop off and
really “lose their
bundle” at about
1.2V per cell. Ours
works with virtually
full brightness down
to below 1V (at which
time you could regard
the battery as dead).
Impressed? You sure
would be if you could see this
little beauty “in the flesh”. It
has a brilliantly white light (not
the yellow you’re used to from most
torch bulbs).
LED light is a completely different
type of light. It’s softer, more diffuse
– without the hot spots and shadows
you get with normal globes.
The torch uses just one of the high
intensity white LEDs which have recently come onto the market. When
we say “one of” that’s deliberate,
because there’s a choice.
You can get high intensity or much
higher intensity, depending on how
This looks just like a standard torch – mainly because we used a
standard torch (or two) to house the project(s). The main photo shows
a heavy-duty and high quality aluminium torch which turns the lamp
on by screwing the lens assembly out (Dick Smith Electronics
Cat Y-1103). The inset shows a much cheaper lightweight
torch which has a rotary switch to turn it on and off
(the blue knob on the end). We can fit the
LED assembly into virtually any
2xAA-cell torch, albeit with
minor “surgery”.
much you want to pay for the LED.
More on those choices shortly – and
if you want to know more about these
devices, see the separate panel “On
White LEDs and White Light etc”.
The other aspect which makes this
project so interesting is the electronics
side. Now you’re probably thinking
that we mean the usual series resistor
which “ordinary” LEDs use to limit
current to safe levels. Not so!
White LEDs have a minor dilem
ma – they require a forward voltage
of around 3V to 3.5V. Not even two
brand new 1.5V batteries in series
can deliver enough voltage to light a
white LED – and our design uses just
one “AA” cell (ergo, 1.5V).
The solution? A tiny inverter cir
cuit inside the torch which steps the
1.5V up to drive the LED at maximum
efficiency. This inverter is built on a
PC board which is very close to the
size of a standard “AA” battery and
in fact is designed to take the place of
one of the AA cells in a 2-cell torch.
Clever, what?
We receive a lot of emails (and even
some letters too!) here at SILICON
CHIP asking for simple, easy-to-build
pro-jects which are relatively cheap
and above all useful . . . something
suitable for everyone from beginners
wanting to build their first real project
to old-timers (the word used in the
most affectionate way!) wishing to
keep their irons hot!
That’s usually a near impossible
wish list.
But what
we have
here is a
project
which is
right up
to date, is
quite inexpensive and simple to build,
unique (we haven’t seen a similar pro
ject anywhere else) and is very useful.
Could you ask for more?
The circuit
As we said before, driving a white
LED is not quite as simple as it would
seem, especially from a low voltage.
That’s why we have included an
inverter to step up the 1.5V from the
AA battery to more than 3.5V to drive
the LED.
The circuit consists of an astable
multivibrator (Q1 & Q2) which os
cillates at around 11kHz, driving a
transistor buffer (Q3). This then drives
a switchmode boost converter (Q4)
which drives the LED.
When power is first applied, one of
the two transistors in the multivibrator
will turn on first. It matters little which
one is first but let’s assume Q1 turns
on, biased via its 82kΩ base resistor.
Q2 will be turned off because as Q1’s
collector goes low, the 330pF capacitor
will pull Q2’s base low.
However, that capacitor now charg
es (via the 82kΩ resistor) until the
point is reached where Q2 receives
enough base bias voltage to turn on. Its
collector then goes low, pulling Q1’s
base low via the .001µF capacitor and
therefore turning Q1 off.
The .001µF capacitor now starts to
charge – and so the process keeps re
peating for as long as power is applied.
The smaller capacitor in Q2’s base
(330pF vs .001µF in Q1’s base) means
that Q1 will be on for a shorter time
than Q2. The result is a continuous
series of pulses turning the buffer
transistor, Q3, on and off at 11.64kHz,
with a duty cycle (or on time to off
time) of about 30%.
When Q3 is off, Q4 is forward-biased
and the inductor in its collector cir
cuit (L1) is energised. When Q3 turns
on, Q4 turns off and the collapsing
magnetic field of L1 supplies a pulse
of current to the white LED via diode
D1, lighting it.
This also charges the 4.7µF elec
trolytic capacitor which effectively
smoothes the current “bursts”. With
out this capacitor, the LED would
appear much brighter since the pulse
current would be higher. But the LED
would also be at risk of destruction as
the current peak would be significantly
higher than it could withstand.
December 2000 15
Fig.1: the circuit diagram of
the “works” which drives the
ultra-bright white LED from a
single AA cell. The three parts
of the circuit, labelled here
and described in the text, are
the multivibrator (based on
Q1 & Q2), a buffer (based on
Q3) and a switch-mode boost
converter (based on Q4).
Q4 is turned off for just enough time
to discharge the energy in L1 after
which it is turned on again.
The energy delivered to the LED can
be calculated from the formula:
Power = L x I PK 2 x
f/2
where L is the inductance in Henrys,
IPK is the peak inductor current and f
is the operating frequency.
The peak current is limited by the
resistance of L1 (about 3Ω) and the 1Ω
resistor in series with Q4’s emitter. As
the current rises through the 1Ω resis
tor the emitter voltage rises, reducing
the base drive to Q4.
This limits the peak inductor cur
rent to about 220mA.
The first oscilloscope trace (Fig.2
below), shows the base drive to Q4 at
the top and the voltage across the 1Ω
resistor at the bottom. Note how the
current builds up to about 224mA
when the base of Q4 is high.
You will recall the operating fre
quency, set by the multivibrator, is
about 11kHz while the inductance
of L1 is about 220µH. The power
delivered to the LED (from the above
formula) is about 64mW.
Average LED current can be worked
out from the formula: I=P/V, where
V is the voltage drop across the LED
itself (3.4V) plus diode D1 (0.6V), or
4V. Therefore the average LED current
is about 64mW/4V, or 16mA. The LED
is designed for a maximum average
current of 20mA.
The second oscilloscope waveform
(Fig.3) also shows Q4’s base voltage at
top but has the collector voltage at the
bottom. This shows that the voltages
reaches close to 5V as Q4 is turned off,
releasing the charge in the inductor
through D1 and LED1.
Power for the circuit is delivered
by a single 1.5V cell. The circuit will
operate to below 1V.
It is also protected against the bat
tery being connected back-to-front,
as no current can flow “backwards”
Fig.2: the top trace shows the base drive to Q4 while the
bottom waveform is the voltage across the 1Ω resistor.
The peak current is 224mV/1Ω or 224mA.
16 Silicon Chip
through LED1, D1 or any of the transis
tors because the supply is well below
the reverse breakdown voltage of any
of these devices.
In fact, we deliberately connected
the battery back-to-front and measured
the current. It was zero – 0.0µA!
Incidentally, we mentioned before
that the capacitor across the LED was
there to protect it.
But this capacitor could also be re
sponsible for damaging or destroying
the LED if the circuit was powered
up with the LED disconnected, then
connected.
Without the LED load, the voltage
across the capacitor would be very
much higher than the LED could
handle. If the LED was then connected
with the capacitor charged . . . phht –
one dead LED.
While this is a remote possibility, it
could happen if the torch is switched
on with the LED disconnected and
we have taken steps to prevent this
Fig.3: the same trace at top but the lower trace is Q4’s
collector voltage. This peaks out at almost 5V – enough
to cook the LED without a capacitor across it.
happening by hardwiring the LED in
position.
Construction
The white LED torch is actually
built inside a . . . torch! We’ll describe
the mechanical side a little later but
basically, any torch that takes two AA
cells will be satisfactory.
One of the cells is replaced with a
small PC board measuring 49 x 14mm.
The components for the inverter need
to be assembled on this board so they
occupy a space no larger than an AA
cell. That means soldering compo
nents to both sides of the board.
Begin, as usual, by ensuring your PC
board is correctly etched and agrees
with the printed PC board pattern.
Normally we insert semiconductors
last but in this case, transistors Q1, Q2
and Q3 can be installed first.
They are arranged so that they lean
towards the centre of the board, at
about a 45° angle. The collector leads
insert fully into the holes, the base and
emitter leads don’t. Solder all leads in
and cut the excess off.
Now insert the 330pF and .001µF
capacitors, as far down as possible
onto the PC board. Make sure the tops
of these capacitors aren’t any higher
than the tops of the transistors. While
inserting capacitors, place the 0.1µF
and 4.7µF capacitors at the other end
of the PC board, again as far down on
the board as you can. Note that the
4.7µF tantalum capacitor is polarised.
The two 82kΩ and one 10kΩ re
sistors are mounted next. These are
mounted “end on” and laid over at
about a 45° angle so they too are lower
than the tops of the transistors.
Diode D1 can be soldered in next
– watch its polarity! Apart from the
inductor, which we will look at short
ly, the only other “component” on the
top side of the PC board is a wire link.
Because of the proximity of other
parts, we suggest that this be a short
length of insulated hookup wire. You
could use a length of resistor pigtail
but we would still be inclined to in
sulate it – just in case.
Fig.4: most of the
components are soldered through the PC
board in the normal
way but there are five
soldered on the bottom
side, as shown in the
lower view at right.
Compare these to the
photos of the boards
below. At the bottom is
the same-size PC board
artwork.
wound a new coil on it, about the right
inductance.
Of course, this means taking off the
old windings; the outer insulation is
removed, the primary (outside) layer
is unwound, then the fine secondary
winding is removed by slicing through
the wire with a sharp knife and peeling
it off (that’s a lot quicker than unwind
ing several hundred turns!).
The inductor winding consists of
150 turns of 0.16mm enamelled copper
wire. Tin one end and solder it to one
of the former’s connection points (on
the end), then wind on the 150 turns
in several layers. The windings don’t
need to be side-by-side but try to keep
them evenly distributed over the full
width of the former.
When all the turns are on, cut the
wire to a suitable length, tin the end
and solder it to the other end of the
former. The winding should be pro
tected by a layer of insulation tape.
To help the inductor sit as low as
possible on the PC board, we cut a
flat section on each of the former’s
ends, just clear of the tape covering
the winding. Mount the former onto
the middle of the PC board and solder
the two ends to the board with short
lengths of resistor pigtail. You’ll need
to take one around the end of the
0.1µF capacitor – make sure it doesn’t
short to it.
The other side of the board
The remaining components, four
resistors and transistor Q4, all mount
on the copper side of the PC board.
You’ll need a soldering iron with a
fine point to solder the components
to the copper pads.
The resistors mount as flat as possi
ble, with one lead snaking back over
the board to connect to the appropri
The inductor
We looked everywhere for a suitable
ferrite core and former (ie, small!) for
the 220µH inductor (L1) but couldn’t
find what we wanted. Eventually, we
raided the junk box and found a trig
ger transformer for a Xenon flashtube.
It was about the right size and if we
Top and bottom views of the completed PC board, here shown with the LED
already solderd in. This board is for the cheaper torch style (ie, one with a
separate switch) but the other type is similar – the main difference is that the
thumbtack (left end) is connected to the – supply line in the alternate version.
December 2000 17
Fig.5: these drawings show how both types of torch
are assembled. On the left is the cheaper, switchedtype torch, along with its LED soldered into the bulb
base. On the right is the screw-out torch version. On
some models of torch the hole in the reflector will
be too small to allow the LED to poke through – this
will have to be carefully filed out to about 5.5mm.
ate place. These leads
must be protected
against shorting
with short lengths
of insulation.
If you could
manage to get
hold of some of
those really tiny
1/8W resistors,
they could almost
solder point-topoint on the board.
Before you solder in
R1, you need to determine
how “hard” you want to run
the white LED – and therefore how much current you are
going to put through it. R1 can be either a 1Ω resistor or a
link (ie, 0Ω). The latter will result in a brighter light but at
the expense of battery life.
Table 1 shows the difference in current: it’s not much but
it could be significant with a flattening battery.
If you elect to use a link, make sure it (like the resistor
lead) is covered with insulation.
Finally, solder in Q4, the only transistor which is NOT a
BC548. It is mounted so that it bends over at 90° and actually
lies flat on the insulation covering R1. Again, a fine-pointed
iron will be a necessity to avoid any solder bridges.
Choosing the LED
There are currently three “brightnesses” of ultra-bright
white LEDs available: 1500-2000mcd, 5600-6000mcd and
8000mcd. The more you pay, theoretically, the brighter the
LED. But we’ll “led” you in on a little secret: we connected
5600mcd and 8000mcd LEDs to the circuit and measured
the output on a very sensitive Minolta lightmeter – and got
absolutely identical results (down to 0.1 “f” stops.) So to
be honest, we’d stick to 5600mcd LEDs and save a few bob!
Connections to the board
Remember we said that this PC board replaces one of the
AA cells; the board actually takes the place of the cell and
it needs connections at each end simular to an AA cell.
How do we do this? With a small washer for the + end
and a drawing pin (minus the point) for the – end, that’s
how!
To hold these items in place we use PC stakes. On the
positive (washer) end push the two stakes “upside down”
through the board (ie, the longer end goes through the board
from above) and solder them in position underneath. Cut
each stake with sidecutters so that there is 3mm above and
below the PC board surfaces and then carefully bend them
inwards (towards each other) so they somewhat follow the
curve of the 3mm washer.
18 Silicon Chip
The washer is placed at the end of the PC board so that
it is proud of the edge (see the illustration). It is then sol
dered to both PC stakes, above and below the PC board.
You should have no problems soldering the washer to
the stakes as long as it is clean and bright. If it is at all
dull (ie, oxidised) it will pay you to polish it first with a
piece of fine wet’n’dry paper.
The opposite end of the board is similar, except
Parts List
1 2 x AA-cell torch
(DSE Y1127, Y1103,
Jaycar ST3000 or similar)
1 PC board, code 11112001, 49
x 14mm
1 M3 tin plated washer
1 12mm OD plated steel thumb
tack
4 PC stakes or 2 PC stakes and
1 20mm length of 1mm tinned
copper wire
1 40mm length of 2mm OD
insulating sleeving
1 5mm LED bezel
1 100mm length of light duty
hookup wire (blue or black)
1 60mm length of light duty
hookup wire (yellow)
1 Xenon tube trigger transformer
(8mm diameter x 11mm long
bobbin) (DSE M-0104 or sim)
1 2.5m length of 0.16mm
enamelled copper wire
1 50mm length of 8mm wide
insulation tape
Semiconductors
1 5mm white LED (LED1) –
1500-2000mCd
(DSE Z 3980, Jaycar ZD 1786),
or 5600-6000mCd
(DSE Z3981, Jaycar Z 1780),
or 8000mCd (DSE Z 3982)
3 BC548 NPN transistors (Q1Q3)
1 BC338 NPN transistor (Q4)
1 1N914, 1N4148 switching
diode (D1)
Capacitors
1 4.7µF low voltage tantalum
1 0.1µF monolithic ceramic
1 .001µF ceramic (5mm OD
max)
1 330pF ceramic (5mm OD max)
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
2 82kΩ
1 10kΩ
2 1kΩ
1 220Ω
1 1Ω 5% (or link – see text)
Here’s how the LED mounts in the bulb base, the glass bulb having first been
(carefully!) removed. The anode (longer) LED lead solders to the contact on the
bottom of the lamp base while the cathode bends up and over the lip of the base
to be soldered to the edge. On the right is the LED and holder inserted into the
torch lamp assembly.
that we use a brass (or tin) plated
thumbtack, with the convex surface
pointing outwards, instead of the
washer.
First of all, hold the thumb-tack in a
pair of pliers and break the pin off with
another pair of pliers. Then proceed
as before, except that in this case you
won’t need to shorten the PC stakes
at all – just bend them over towards
each other.
That completes the assembly of
the electronics – but make sure the
PC board slides into the torch body
you are going to use and, if the torch
is metal, that there are no exposed
component leads, etc which could
short to the case.
Fitting to the torch
There are two different types of
torch and you need to determine
which type yours is, because fitting
is slightly different.
One type has a switch on it, usually
switching the negative battery connec
tion (because the globe end normally
contacts the + end of the top battery).
The other type has no “switch” as
such; the torch is turned on by screw
ing the globe/lens assembly out. This
removes the pressure holding open
the battery off the torch end, allowing
them to touch and thus turning the
torch on. You may know of this torch
as a “Mag” brand but there are others
with similar switching arrangements.
Ours was in fact an “Arlec” brand
courtesy of Dick Smith Electronics.
We’ll look at the switched-type first.
Wiring a switched-type torch
We need to break the globe so that
the white LED can be mounted inside
the metal globe base. Wear safety gog
gles and break the glass with pliers
wrapped in a small piece of cloth.
Carefully clean any glass or glue res
idue from the globe base and remove
the excess solder from the bottom so
you can see right through the base.
Slide a 5mm LED bezel over the LED
from the lead end (collar at front) so
that the base of the LED sits on the
collar.
Bend the cathode (shorter lead)
90° so that it emerges from one of
the slits in the bezel. Pass the anode
lead through the hole in the globe
base and push the LED and bezel in
so virtually all of the bezel is inside
the base. Solder the anode to the
bottom of the base and clip off the
excess lead.
Now bend the cathode lead back
down 90°, over the outside edge of the
metal base. Centre the LED within the
base if necessary then cut the cathode
lead off so there is just the tiniest bit
over the metal edge – just enough to
Capacitor
CAPACITOR Codes
CODES
Resistor Colour Codes
No.
2
1
2
1
1
Value
82kΩ
10kΩ
1kΩ
220Ω
1Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
grey red orange brown
brown black orange brown
brown black red brown
red red brown brown
brown black gold gold (5%)
5-Band Code (1%)
grey red black red brown
brown black black red brown
brown black black brown brown
red red black black brown
Value
EIA Code IEC Code
4.7µF 4.7µ
475
0.1µF 100n
104
.001µF 1n0
102
330pF 330p
331
December 2000 19
to the LED anode. Solder these two
wires respectively to the LED cathode
and anode (- and +) positions on the
PC board.
You can now assemble the torch and
give it the “Smoke” test – if it doesn't
smoke and the white LED comes on
when you turn it on, well done!
Wiring a twist-type torch
On the left is the standard bulb “as it comes” in the heavy duty torch, without
reflector of course. On the right is the LED version – we’ve disassembled the
torch to take this photo (for clarity) but you don’t need to do this. That’s fortunate because some torches are very difficult to pull apart!
be able to solder the cathode in place.
You now have a white LED assembly
which is virtually equivalent in size
to the original bulb – and one which
will fit into the variety of bulb holders
used in torches.
Hard-wiring the LED
Remember we mentioned before
that the LED could be damaged if
connected across the charged capac
itor? For this reason, we’ve decided
to permanently wire the LED in place
– just in case.
Place the LED bulb assembly in its
torch holder and solder a short (2cm)
length of black wire to the LED cath
ode and a similar length of red wire
This type of torch, with its integral
reflector, is more efficient than the
cheaper “bulb only” torch types. The
downside is that it is a bit more tricky
to work with. You could disassemble
the whole thing but that’s not easy so
we took an simpler route.
This torch normally uses a globe
which has two stiff wire legs which
you push into a base (after you screw
off the reflector head assembly!). The
two contacts in the base normally
connect to the torch case (– battery
connection) and to the top of the bat
teries (+ battery connection).
We simply short both the base con
tacts together so they form the “–”
connection from the case back to the
thumbtack on the PC board, then we
solder the cathode (K) lead of the LED
to this common point.
On white LEDs and white light and colours and Kelvins…
The idea of using LEDs for torch lighting is not new –
we published a LED torch in February 1994 using a high
brightness amber LED. The LED was simply driven via
2-AA cells with suitable current limiting.
Even though red, green, yellow and even blue LEDs
have been around for a while, white LEDs took a lot
longer to become a comm ercial reality. For a long time
they tried to make them work by combining the outputs
of red, green and blue LEDs to produce white (similar
to making white in a TV picture tube). The results were
anything but satisfactory.
We’re not sure if white LEDs happened exactly this way
but hey, why spoil a good story for the facts . . .
One day, the white-coated brigade who had been tearing what was left of their hair out over white LEDs looked
towards the heavens for inspiration. Instead he/she/they
saw the fluorescent tubes in the laboratory ceiling and like
Archimedes, shouted “Eureka!”
“Why not coat a blue LED with a phosphor, just like in a
fluorescent tube,” they thought. Why not indeed?
Now just in case you don’t know what happens inside
a fluorescent tube, the ultraviolet electrical discharge in
the tube makes the phosphors (the white powder inside
the tube which goes everywhere when you smash one!)
fluoresce, or glow. The result is light – and depending on
the type(s) of phosphor, the light can be virtually any colour.
If the phosphor produces light over a broad spectrum, the
result is white light, more or less.
20 Silicon Chip
White light has a “colour temperature”, measured in Kelvins. Low colour temperatures, say from 1500K to 2800K,
are reddish to yellowish, such as from candlelight and most
incandescent bulbs. The yellowish-white light of a halogen
bulb would be about 3000K-3500K while at the top end of
the spectrum (5000K and above) it is the bluish-white light
of a “daylight” fluorescent tube.
Average sunlight (as distinct from daylight) is regarded
as having a colour temperature of 4100K.
“Pure white” light in television is considered to be 6500K;
the photographic industry uses 5500K; the printing industry
uses 5000K.
Part of the reason for different colour temperatures
being used as standard is the mechanism by which each
of the media produce colours. The overriding aim of all of
them is to get skin tones looking as natural as possible
because these are the most quickly judged as being “right”
or “wrong” to the eye.
In the white LED, the phosphor converts the blue light
into a wide spectrum white light. Now where have we
heard that before? As a bonus, white LEDs produce what
is a virtually an ideal light source, because the colours of
objects will appear close to what you would see in daylight.
White LEDs, by the way, are made from an InGaN (Indium Gallium Nitride) chip (blue LED) which is coated with
a YAG (yttrium aluminum garnet), an inorganic phosphor.
So now you have a great piece of trivia to drop when the
conversation at your next dinner party starts to wane…
The anode lead of the LED will be
connected via a short length of hookup wire to the appropriate point on
the PC board.
First of all, proceed with the assem
bly of the PC board as for the other
torch, with one difference: instead of
connecting a length of hookup wire
to the cathode connection point on
the PCB, use a short length of tinned
copper wire and solder that to the
thumbtack. The anode connection is
the same – a short length (say 25mm)
of hookup wire.
Push the completed PC board as
sembly through the torch until that
short length of hookup wire emerges
from the front.
You might have to jiggle it around
slightly to get it through.
Next, discard the globe by pulling
it out. Make a small “U” shape from a
10mm length of resistor lead off-cut (or
tinned copper wire), just wide enough
to push into the two contacts in the
base which you just pulled the lamp
from (the legs of the “U” about 1.5mm
wide). Put that aside for a moment.
The LED has a flange moulded on
its base which makes it too thick to fit
through the hole in the torch reflector,
IRECT
OMPONENTS
COMPONENT
1-9 PRICE
10+ PRICE
AXIAL ELECTROLYTIC
CAPACITORS
10uF <at> 450 volt
$2.60
$2.00
22uF <at> 450 volt
$3.35
$2.80
47uF <at> 450 volt
$7.44
$6.30
22uF <at> 50 volt
$0.55
$0.50
AXIAL POLYESTER
CAPACITORS (630V)
1-9 PRICE
10+ PRICE
0.001uF
$0.60
$0.50
0.0022uF
$0.65
$0.55
0.0047uF
$0.65
$0.55
0.01uF
$0.70
$0.60
0.022uF
$0.85
$0.75
0.033uF
$1.40
$1.25
0.047uF
$1.55
$1.35
0.1uF
$1.70
$1.45
0.22uF
$1.85
$1.60
0.47uF
$2.50
$2.20
RADIAL POLYESTER
CAPACITORS (630V)
1-9 PRICE
10+ PRICE
0.001uF
$0.35
$0.32
0.0022uF
$0.35
$0.32
0.0047uF
$0.35
$0.32
0.01uF
$0.38
$0.32
Table 1: Performance
Cell
Voltage
R1=1Ω: 1.5V
1.2V
1.0V
R1=0Ω: 1.5V
1.2V
1.0V
LED
Current
18mA
10mA
5.6mA
21mA
12.5mA
7.3mA
Cell
Current
120mA
83mA
54mA
130mA
92mA
55mA
so this needs to be carefully filed off.
Don’t damage the top surface of the
LED as you do this.
Now remove the U-shaped wire from
the base and solder it to the cathode
(ie, shorter) lead of the LED, right up
close to the body of the LED. The “U”
should be centred on the body but en
sure that it’s not too close to the anode
lead, risking a short.
Cut off most of the LED anode lead
(leave just a couple of mm) and solder
the hookup wire emerging from the
front of the torch to the anode. Ensure
that you haven’t shorted out anode
and cathode in the process. Push the
U-shaped wire and white LED all the
way into the holes in the lamp base.
Obviously, the anode connecting
wire goes back down into the torch
0.022uF
$0.42
$0.38
0.033uF
$0.65
$0.55
0.047uF
$0.65
$0.55
0.1uF
$0.90
$0.80
0.22uF
$1.00
$0.90
0.47uF
$1.25
$1.10
RADIAL ELECTROLYTIC
CAPACITORS (16V)
1-9 PRICE
10+ PRICE
1uF
$0.26
$0.22
2.2uF
$0.26
$0.22
3.3uF
$0.26
$0.22
4.7uF
$0.28
$0.24
10uF
$0.30
$0.26
22uF
$0.32
$0.28
33uF
$0.35
$0.28
47uF
$0.38
$0.30
100uF
$0.38
$0.30
220uF
$0.40
$0.32
330uF
$0.50
$0.45
470uF
$0.55
$0.50
1000uF
$0.70
$0.55
2200uF
$0.90
$0.70
3300uF
$1.35
$1.10
4700uF
$1.50
$1.20
RADIAL ELECTROLYTIC
CAPACITORS (25V)
1-9 PRICE
10+ PRICE
4.7uF
$0.22
$0.18
10uF
$0.22
$0.18
22uF
$0.22
$0.18
33uF
$0.33
$0.26
47uF
$0.38
$0.30
100uF
$0.42
$0.32
220uF
$0.55
$0.45
330uF
$0.60
$0.50
body – but check that it doesn’t foul
anything as it goes and check once
again that nothing shorts!
Before final assembly, test the torch
by putting in an AA cell and screwing
on the back. With the connection now
made between the LED cathode and
the torch body, the LED should light.
If it doesn’t, remove the PC board
and check your wiring and compo
nent placement. If it is necessary to
work on the PC board out of the case,
temporarily solder any standard LED
across the anode and cathode points
on the PC board, rather than trying to
make contact with your white LED.
Assuming all is well, fix the white
LED in place with a dollop of neutral
cure silicone sealant, hot melt glue, or
other adhesive.
Then carefully screw the reflector
assembly back on, ensuring the LED
comes through the hole in the middle.
You may need to remove the assembly
and reposition the LED slightly if the
alignment isn't spot on.
You can adjust the focus (wide or
spot) by the position of the reflector
with respect to the LED. Screwing the
reflector all the way in should turn
the torch off.
SC
470uF
$0.65
$0.52
1000uF
$0.90
$0.70
2200uF
$1.30
$1.00
3300uF
$1.85
$1.45
4700uF
$2.60
$2.00
RADIAL ELECTROLYTIC
CAPACITORS (50V)
1-9 PRICE
10+ PRICE
10uF
$0.22
$0.18
22uF
$0.22
$0.18
33uF
$0.38
$0.30
47uF
$0.38
$0.30
100uF
$0.60
$0.50
220uF
$0.75
$0.60
330uF
$0.80
$0.70
470uF
$1.20
$1.00
1000uF
$1.50
$1.20
2200uF
$2.80
$2.00
4700uF
$4.30
$3.75
MAINS CABLE – BROWN COTTON COVERED Per mtr
1-9 PRICE
10+ PRICE
$2.80
$2.20
DIAL CORD – 0.6mm Per mtr
1-9 PRICE
10+ PRICE
$0.75
$0.50
24-hour online ordering: www.direct-components.com
Fax: (08) 9479 4417 Email: capacitor<at>bigpond.com
Snail mail: PO Box 437, Welshpool, WA 6986
Aust. Post – $0-50 = $5.00; $51-100 = $7.50; $101-500 = $9.50
Air Express: <3kg = $11.00; 3-5kg = $16
ABN: 70-032-497-512
December 2000 21
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
This is the top
model in the
Agilent 54600
series. It has two
analog input
channels and
16 digital input
channels so it can
perform as a
combination
analog scope and
logic analyser.
Agilent 54622D Mixed
Signal Oscilloscope
Back in October 1991 we reviewed the first of the “new
generation” digital scopes from Hewlett-Packard, the
HP 54601. Now we review one of the successors of that
unit, the Agilent 54622D, a 200 megasample/second
“mixed signal” machine. But while the two machines
might bear the same 3-digit prefix, the performance of
the new series is radically better.
REVIEWED BY LEO SIMPSON
26 Silicon
iliconCChip
hip
This is the rear panel of the 54621A 60MHz 2-channel oscilloscope. This is
identical on the 54622D mixed signal scope except that the latter unit also has
the trigger input socket on the back panel.
I
N NOVEMBER 1999, the instrumentation side of Hewlett-Packard
was spun off into a new company
called Agilent Technologies Inc and
this company has finally released its
new series of digital scopes. There
are five models in the series, two
60MHz models and three 100MHz
units: the 54621A 2-channel 60MHz;
the 54621D 18-channel 60MHz mixed
signal scope; the 54622A 2-channel
100MHz; the 54624A 4-channel
100MHz; and the mixed-signal
54622D which has two analog chan
nels and 16 digital channels.
Over a period of several weeks
we had the chance to try out the
2-channel and 4-channel 100MHz
models and the 54622D mixed signal
oscilloscopes. Apart from the more
comprehensive trigger
ing facilities
and 16-channel input capability of
the 54622D, all the scopes have the
same operating features so virtually
everything in this review will apply
to all models in the series.
First up, we will state that the ba
sic “spec” for the 54600 series seems
pretty standard – 100MHz or 60MHz
bandwidth and 200 megasamples/
second (for analog channels). How
ever, this tells only a small part of
the story because this series of scopes
does not have the sampling rate tied
to the timebase speed, giving low
sample rates at low timebase speeds.
Instead, the 54600 series run at a high
sampling speed all the time and in
fact, it runs at the maximum 200MSa/
sec speed for all timebase speeds
above 1ms/div. This is a huge step
up in performance compared to most
digital scopes.
And it has a large memory, with
2MB of RAM per channel or 4MB
in single channel mode. These two
factors make it a potent scope indeed.
We’ll come back to the performance
aspects later. For the moment, let’s
look at the basic operating features.
Compared with other brands of
digital scopes with CRT screens, the
Agilent 54600 series is quite compact,
measuring 352mm wide (including
handle), 172mm high (including feet
but not accessory bag) and 317mm
deep. It is quite light at 6.3kg.
The scope screen is a nominal
7-inch CRT with a live screen area
measuring 127 x 99mm while the
screen graticule has the standard
arrangement with 8 vertical and 10
horizontal divisions.
Along the bottom of the screen are
six “soft keys” and their functions all
change, depending on what button
has been pushed on the control panel.
Below these soft keys is the 3.5-inch
1.44Mb disk slot, the power on-off
switch and the intensity control.
This latter knob only controls the
intensity of the channel traces, not
the graticule or the various screen
labels. The screen labels are fixed
in intensity but you can change the
brightness of the graticule (the ruled
grid on the screen) by pushing the
Display button, the Grid soft-key and
then rotating the multi-purpose knob
to the right of the screen.
The control panel has a number
of control groupings which make it
easier to use. For example, there are
groupings for the analog (vertical)
and digital inputs, the horizontal
timebase, triggering and so on. In
the analog group, there are two BNC
sockets, one for each channel, a sen
sitivity control and position control
for each and three buttons, one to
select each channel and one to select
MATHematic operations.
Each of these three buttons is
brightly illuminated when it is press
ed.
Digital inputs
Similarly, for the selection of digital
(logic) channels, there are two buttons
plus a “label” button and these are
also illuminated when pressed.
The 16 digital inputs are connected
via a special 16-way connector and
two 8-way woven ribbon cables each
of which terminate in a “pod” which
has nine leads – ground and eight
probe leads which can be connected
to header pins on PC boards, or when
probe tips are attached, connected to
individual IC pins.
You can select either or both of the
8-channel banks which are labelled
D0-D8 and D9-D15. Individual chan
nels can be turned off and any or all
channels can be separately labelled
by using the “label” button. You can
(laboriously) feed in your own labels
or you can select from the scope’s own
fairly comprehensive logic library.
The digital channels can be set
for TTL, CMOS, ECL or user-defined
threshold levels and by setting dif
ferent thresholds for the two-channel
banks you can work on mixed logic
circuits.
This whole 16-channel digital fa
cility means that you have the best of
both worlds in the Agilent 54622D – a
high performance two channel analog
(well, digital storage) scope and a
16-channel logic analyser. Well, not
quite but you get the picture.
In the “trigger” panel there are five
buttons and a level control. Again,
four of these buttons (edge, pulse
December 2000 27
Fig.1: this is the “help” screen you get when you press
and hold down the channel 1 selector button. Similar
help screens are available when you press any button on
the Agilent scope, regardless of whether it is a front panel
button or one of the softkeys below the screen. These help
screens would make it much easier for any novice to
become competent in using an oscilloscope.
width, pattern & more) are illuminat
ed when pressed and they also bring
up their associated softkeys below
the scope screen. Four other buttons
can be illuminated: run/stop, single
(for single shot mode), cursors and
“quick meas”.
Finally, the knob below the main
time
b ase control has an adjacent
anticlockwise arrow and when some
function can be varied by this knob,
the arrow is illuminated. This last fea
ture might be simple but it indicates
just how much thought has gone into
making this scope easy to use.
Overall then, the control panel of
the new Agilent 54600 series is dis
armingly simple. You immediately
feel as though you can sit down and
use it straight away without having
to read through a manual.
And just in case you do need help
with any feature, all you have to do
it hold down the relevant button and
some text will immediately appear on
the screen to give the information. For
example, say you are looking at the
channel 1 menu which has soft keys
for coupling (GND, DC, AC), BW limit,
vernier and probe. You want to know
what BW limit is. Press the softkey
and text will come up to tell you that
this key sets the scope bandwidth to
20MHz (instead of 100MHz) and this
can be used to remove unwanted high
frequency noise from the signal.
Bandwidth limiting has been
around for a long time on scopes but
if you were a novice user you may
28 Silicon Chip
Fig.2: here is a 100kHz sinewave with a small amount
of noise superimposed, as shown by the small amount of
frizzle on the waveform. Note the vertical cursors which
are brought into play when the frequency measurement is
called for.
not have an inkling of what it meant.
By the way, while all the oscillo
scope labelling and operating features
are in English, the help screens can
also be in Chinese, French, German,
Italian, Japanese, Korean or Spanish.
Fig.1 shows the help screen you ob
tain when you hold down the channel
1 selector button.
Before we leave the channel 1 menu
we should mention the probe softkey.
The 54600 comes standard with 10:1
passive probes and these will auto
matically be sensed by the scope as
soon as they are plugged in. The scope
then changes the input sensitivity by
a factor of 10. So if the sensitivity was
1V/div with no probe connected, it
will automatically go to 10V/div as
soon as the 10:1 probe is connected.
On the other hand, if you are using
a probe without the auto-sensing fea
ture, the probe softkey will let you set
the attenuation to suit, anywhere from
a factor of 0.1:1 to 100:1, in a 1,2,5
sequence. Apart from using probes
without auto-sensing, this feature
could be useful when you are moni
toring a circuit via a voltage divider
and you want the appropriate factor
to be used and displayed by the scope.
Screen saver
We mentioned the controls for
screen brightness (intensity) previ
ously and that brings up another good
feature of these Agilent scopes – a
screen saver. Many a time I have come
across a scope with a bright display
(with no-one watching it) and I in
stinctively lean across and turn down
the intensity. But these scopes have
a screen saver which moves around
the screen and thereby avoids burning
any pattern into the screen, as well as
increasing the life of the tube, as the
beam current is reduced.
There is a choice of three screen
saver patterns (Agilent logo, etc) and
you can set the time after which it
cuts in, from one minute to 435 min
utes (default time is 360 minutes or 6
hours). Anyway, this is another good
idea from Agilent.
Triggering
If nothing else, the triggering facili
ties on the 54600 series are outstand
ing. If you can’t get a stable display
with this scope, you’re not likely to
do so on any other machine.
We’ve already mentioned the illu
minated buttons which bring up the
triggering options: Edge, Pulse Width,
Pattern & More. “Edge” triggering al
lows you to trigger the scope timebase
on the positive or negative edge of
pulse waveforms. The “Pulse Width”
button allows you to select triggering
on positive or negative pulses and to
select the pulse width, greater or less
than a variable value or between two
variable values.
“Pattern” allows for triggering on
a logical AND condition of selected
channels and each channel may be
high (H), low (L), don’t care (X) or a
rising or falling edge. Thus you can
Fig.3: this low level 90kHz burst signal is the source of
the frizzle on the waveform of Fig.2. Expanding out the
waveform and using the frequency measurement facility
showed that it was ringing at frequencies up to around
100MHz.
set up triggering on a whole range
of pulse/channel combinations. By
the way, you also have the option of
inverting the channel 1 & 2 inputs,
giving a further range of conditions.
The “More” button brings up an
advanced trigger menu encompassing
TV, Sequence, I2C (for I2C bus signals)
and Duration. TV triggering is really
impressive as you can set triggering
on NTSC, PAL, PAL-M, SECAM or
generic TV waveforms, using positive
or negative sync polarity.
You can trigger on field 1 or 2, all
fields, all lines or you can select a
particular line number in field 1 or 2.
Interestingly, the maximum line count
catered for in a generic TV waveform
is 1024. Agilent have certainly catered
for every possibility.
Sequence triggering is pretty fancy
too. In this mode the scope looks for
a specified pattern and then triggers
on another specified pattern. You can
even specify a reset event.
Duration triggering lets you trigger
on an AND logic combination of in
puts with a duration greater or less
than a specified value, with or without
a timeout and so on. If you think about
it, the specified triggering possibilities
are enormous.
Measurement options
As you might expect, the measure
ment options on the Agilent 54600
series are pretty wide as well. You
can initiate measurements by push
ing the “quick meas” or “cursor”. In
Fig.4: monitoring video waveforms is dead easy. Here
we’ve fed in a signal from an NTSC colour camera and
with line 238 selected from field one. The line frequency
comes up as 15.65kHz but we assume that the error
(15.65kHz versus a correct 15.75kHz) is due to noise in
the measurement.
cursor mode you can have vertical
(X) or horizontal (Y) cursors. For
vertical cursors, the scope displays
the time difference between the two
(ie, along the X (time) axis) and also
displays the reciprocal value which
is the frequency.
When horizontal cursors are set, the
scope displays the voltage difference
between the two. By the way, you can
also have binary and hex cursors – the
mind boggles.
Pushing the “quick meas” button
allows you to select time (frequency,
period, rise & fall times, etc) or am
plitude measurements (RMS, average,
peak-peak, etc) from five menu pages.
Only three measurements can be dis
played at a time though, which is a
bit of a downer.
Mathematics
While it may not be thought of as
part of the measurement features, the
mathematics of the 54600 series are
particularly strong. Not only can you
do standard operations like multiply
ing channel 1 by channel 2 or taking
the sum or difference, you can also get
a plot of the derivative (ie, dV/dt) or
integral (∫ V.dt) of the analog channels.
The integral is calculated using the
“trapezoidal rule” (now there’s a blast
from my distant past – I was surprised
that I could even remember it!).
And there’s FFT (Fast Fourier
Transform) analysis which can be
done with Hanning, Flat Top or Rec
tangular window settings.
The number of points in the FFT
is fixed at 2048 while the noise floor
ranges from -70dB to -100dB depend
ing on the level of averaging.
High resolution display
On the face of it, the display of the
new Agilent scope is not anything out
of the ordinary; the screen resolution
is quoted as 255 vertical by 1000 hori
zontal points (for the graticule area)
but, and it is a big BUT, there are 32
levels of grey scale. However, there are
several factors which lead to a scope
display which is far better than you
would expect, even given that there
are 32 levels of grey scale. First, there
is the very high sampling rate, even
at low timebase speeds, and second,
there is the deep memory. Third, the
acquisition system has a vertical res
olution (linearity) of 12 bits.
Combine all of this with Agilent’s
so-called MegaZoom tech
n ology
and the result is a display which is
far better than most digital storage
scopes. Not only that but it is better
on most signals then even the best
analog scopes.
No longer do you see jitter on
“smooth” signals such as sinewaves,
due to the sampling system being
tricked by noise. Instead, if there
is noise superimposed on a signal,
you see a smooth trace with lower
intensity “frizzle”. The waveform of
Fig.2 is a classic example of this. Here
is a 100kHz sinewave with a small
amount of noise superimposed. Look
December 2000 29
Fig.5: using the same signal as in Fig.4, we wound up the
timebase to 1µs/div, and set the horizontal position knob
to bring up the colour burst. A rock steady waveform is
the result.
closely and you will see the frizzle.
We were a little puzzled when we
first saw this frizzle because it came
from our low distortion sine/square
oscillator described in the January
& February 1990 issues. And since
Fig.6: to measure the colour burst frequency on the signal
of Fig.5 we wound up the timebase setting on the Agilent
to 100ns/div, took a single-shot trace and the result is at
the bottom of the screen: 3.584MHz.
we thought our oscillator was above
reproach, we initially thought that the
scope was wrong.
Looking further, we turned the
oscillator’s output down to zero and
the signal was still there. Even when
we turned the oscillator off, the noise
was still there. Not only that but we
were able to obtain a stable triggered
display with all sorts of spikey noise
on it. Fig.3 shows the result; a low
level 90kHz burst signal which is
apparently radiated by our 100Mbit/s
Cat.5 network (and it has a CE mark
too – so much for EMC compliance!).
The point is that the Agilent scope
had no trouble seeing this noise. By
the way, we got that scope trace with
an averaging setting of one; the Mega
Zoom cleans up the signal while still
leaving the noise detail in there.
We also measured the waveforms
from a 555 circuit recently featured
in the magazine and it was interesting
that the 54622D showed up the spikes
at the crests of the sawtooth; these are
not visible on other digital scopes.
TV waveforms
The 54622D mixed signal oscilloscope has a special input socket for the 16
digital channels and these are brought out to two pods, each of which has nine
leads – ground and eight probe leads. These can be connected to header pins on
PC boards, or when probe tips are attached, connected to individual IC pins.
30 Silicon Chip
The 54600 is particularly good on
TV waveforms, because of its com
prehensive sync facilities, including
line number selector. Fig.4 gives an
indication of this. Here we’ve fed in
a signal from an NTSC colour camera
and selected line 238 from field one.
As you can see, on the scope picture,
we’ve measured the line frequency
and video amplitude. The line fre
quency comes up as 15.65kHz but
we assume that the error (15.65kHz
versus a correct 15.75kHz) is due to
noise in the measurement.
Want to measure the colour burst
frequency? Easy. Just increase the
timebase to 1µs/div and wind the
horizontal position knob to bring
up the colour burst. Fig.5 shows the
Fig.7: using a
100MHz analog
scope on the signal
of Fig.5, this was
the best result we
could get. Since the
analog scope did
not come with a TV
line selector there
was no way to get
the rock steady
and bright
waveform which
is so easy to obtain
with the 54600
series.
result.
This ability to display TV wave
forms was so good that I thought I
might crank up our workhorse analog
scope, a Kenwood 100MHz model
which I’ve always regarded as being
fairly good in the sync department
(for an analog scope).
Anyway I fed in the same waveform
and by judicious use of the main and
delayed timebases I was able to obtain
the waveform shown in the photo of
Fig.7. It’s not bad but since the old
faithful Kenwood analog scope did
not come with anything as fancy as a
TV line selector there was no way I
was going to get the rock steady and
bright waveform which is so easy to
obtain with the 54600 series.
Oh, we wanted to measure the col
our burst frequency, didn’t we? Wind
up the timebase setting on the Agi
lent to 100ns/div, take a single-shot
trace and the result is Fig.6. There
is the measurement at the bottom of
the screen: 3.584MHz. It should be
3.579MHz (alright, 3.579545MHz, to
be precise but who is counting?).
We could go on but by now you
should have the overall picture. The
Agilent 54600 scopes are delightfully
easy to drive and the overall features
in the package are very comprehen
sive. Sure, it doesn’t feature runt
triggering but you could play with
sync settings to achieve a given result
if you want.
We think the 54600 series will
be a real winner. Agilent have had
plenty of time to think through all
the features on this scope and the
competition will be scrambling to
match them.
For further information on the
54600 series you can check the web
site at www.agilent.com or phone 1
800 629 485. Pricing on the 54600
series starts at $4300 plus GST for
the 54621A 60MHz 2-channel model,
ranging up to $8514 plus GST for the
full-featured 54622D 100MHz mixed
signal oscilloscope complete with
two analog probes and the digital
SC
probing pods.
Own an EFI car? Want to get the
best from it? You’ll find all
you need to know in this publication
Making Your EFI Car Go Harder Building A Mixture Meter
D-I-Y Head Jobs Fault Finding EFI Systems $70 Boost
Control For 23% More Grunt All About Engine Management
Modifying Engine Management Systems Water/Air Intercooling How To Use A Multimeter Wiring An Engine Transplant And Much More Including Some Awesome Engines!
AVAILABLE DIRECT FROM SILICON CHIP PUBLICATIONS
PO BOX 139, COLLAROY NSW 2097 - $8.95 Inc P&P
Call (02) 9979 5644 9-5 Mon-Fri with your credit card details!
December 2000 31
MAILBAG
Pool alarm sensor
should be out of sight
I have just finished reading the
article on the Pool Alarm in the Sep
tember issue of SILICON CHIP.
The project revolves around a de
vice which floats in the pool to warn
if a child has fallen in or any distrac
tion to the surface has occurred. If
you take a look at the photo on the
front of the magazine, it depicts the
child checking out the ball that is
in the pool. However, I can almost
assure you that even if the ball was
not in that pool, she would certainly
be equally curious about the warning
device floating in the pool.
It’s the old case of keeping the gate
locked, the fence up to standards and
anything resembling a climbing aid
out of eyesight or locked down. It all
boils down to the parents/guardians
keeping an ever watchful eye over
children of that age.
I have an idea that might be worth
while in keeping the device out of
sight. Basically it involves making
the sensing part of the circuit remote
(away from the rest of the control
unit) and keeping it anchored nearest
a pool ladder or near the edge of the
pool, just enough that the device will
still function.
Alex Gordon
argordon<at>es.co.nz
Trap in battery conversion of
plugpack powered appliances
There is a trap for the unwary when
converting some plugpack-powered
appliances for operation on batter
ies, as suggested in “Battery Backup
For Cordless Phones” in the October
1999 issue.
I found this out when I converted a
General Electric answering machine
for operation from 12V by replacing
the 9VDC nominal plugpack with an
external 9V regulator running from
the 12V supply. This arrangement
very nearly destroyed the answering
machine.
You see, the designers of the an
swering machine had reduced the
DC input voltage to the machine’s
internal operating voltage by simply
wiring a 5.6V zener diode across the
32 Silicon Chip
DC input – with no dropping resistor!
The plugpack used had a sufficiently
high output impedance for this to
work but my regulator circuit simply
overpowered the poor zener.
Fortunately, the zener remained
faithful to the bitter end. It failed as
a short circuit rather than going open
and allowing the 9V to damage the
voltage-sensitive circuitry in the rest
of the answering machine.
Equipment designed in this way
may also fail if the unregu
l ated
plugpack is replaced by a regulated
plugpack.
Of course, none of this would have
happened if the answering machine
had used a series regulator or even
just a dropping resistor before the
zener diode (but even this must be
suitably rated for the eventuality of a
low-impedance DC supply).
To solve the problem, I simply
changed the external regulator to 5V. I
removed the zener and did not replace
it, since I did not have a replacement
available at the time. However, it
would have been better to replace it,
to protect the machine if it is ever used
again with a 9V plugpack.
Andrew Partridge,
Kuranda, Qld.
Health card
a good idea
I would like to congratulate you on
an excellent editorial, on the sugges
tion for a health record card, in the
October 2000 issue.
Recently August 26 I entered the
Alfred Hospital in Melbourne for laser
ablation surgery on a 4.8cm tumour on
my liver. After admission and three
hours before the surgery, I told the
resident doctor who came to explain
the surgery all my cancer history. It
had never been requested from me and
I had assumed that the surgeon (whom
I had never met) would have all the
details on his computer. Very wrong.
I told her of my unresectable large
pheochromocytoma, how it had
almost blocked my Inferior Vena
Cava and that I was on Warfarin to
stop blood clotting. I told her about
my ‘moderate to severe’ aortic valve
stenosis and regurgitation. I told her
of previous atrial fibrillations where
the pheochromocytoma had released
catecholamines into the blood stream
and how for years I had carried am
pules of Lasix with me and a syringe
to inject myself if it ever happened
again.
I suspect she did not believe me at
first but after listening to my heart and
seeing my 12-inch scar, she went to
see her superiors. It turned out that
the Alfred Hospital had NO access
to my medical records, even though
they were held on a computer at The
William Buckland Institute (where I
had radiation treatment twice) within
the SAME grounds as the Alfred. The
surgery was cancelled. It was finally
done about a month later after appro
priate premedication.
It is a dreadful thought that if I am
ever admitted to any hospital uncon
scious, they will not know my signif
icant medical history which would
be vital in my case for appropriate
treatment.
So yes, I fully support a smart
health card. But even before that I
would support the simple sharing of
medical records between hospitals. It
is ridiculous that my medical records
at Cabrini Hospital and The William
Buckland Institute were not accessi
ble by the Alfred Hospital computers.
Cabrini is only about 5km from the
Alfred. Doctors at the Alfred had to
ring these two hospitals and ask for
the records.
But there is another, more signifi
cant problem working against a smart
card which you did not mention. In
Australia the patient is not legally
entitled to the reports of their own
medical examinations. I have found
that different hospitals can and do
make different interpretations of
medical imaging tests. I have a CT
scan where the possible lung and liver
metastasis interpretation was made
by one radiologist at one hospital,
but was said to be an artifact and an
unfilled (by the contrast medium)
liver vein by another radiologist at a
different hospital.
The problem of wrong diagnosis of
medical tests I see as the real imped
iment to having medical records put
in digital black and white on a smart
card. Fortunately, in my case I have
read up fully on my conditions and
I have had sympathetic doctors who
have given me all the reports. I do not
want to blame anyone for misinterpre
tations. I recognise that the same glass
can be half full or half empty, with
both interpretations correct. What was
an unfilled vein 1cm in diameter in
December 1996 was interpreted as a
possible benign tumor 2.5cm diameter
in September 1999 but in July 2000
this was a 4.8cm tumour requiring
immediate attention. What doctor
wants to have his name electronically
signed on a diagnosis subsequently
found to be in error?
In fact, America is way ahead of
Australia in this regard which I think
is why the USA will develop the
health card first. This year, franchised
medical testing clinics are opening
where anyone can go in and pay for
any medical tests they want, with NO
doctor’s referral needed. If you think
you want a particular test you just
go and have it. A CT scan is about
$US730. The patient gets back a full
report. Then they can take that report
to a doctor if needed. The high cost
of medical treatment and medication
in the USA means that there is much
more financial incentive there for
smart health card development and
use. Like most (all?) technology today,
Australia will only get it as a spin-off
from the USA.
Finally, let me say that the virtual
ly free health system in Australia is
about the best in the world, the above
problems notwithstanding. (The ba
by-boomers like us will be kept alive
from diseases which only 20 years ago
would have killed us.)
I confidently expect to be running
kitsrus.com for many years to come.
Peter Crowcroft PhD,
DIY Electronics (HK) Ltd,
Hong Kong.
Solar power bogged
in bureaucracy
Of late, concerns have been ex
pressed in several publications about
the intrusion of the bureaucracy into
every part of our lives. Now it appears
that its clammy hand is touching those
who have a hobby that is actually
productive to society as well as being
enjoyable: the electronic fiddlers! Al
though I have a degree in electronic
and electrical engineering I take the
title “fiddler” as honourable as the
“rats of Tobruk” took theirs. Also, we
know how hard it is to play a fiddle.
Being one of the first members of
Greenpeace, I have seen with disgust
how the bureaucracy has pulled the
whole issue to the edge of imbecility
with all the unrealistic and counter
productive rules. I live in the country
and I see the effect on the farmers
scratching a living. Putting my deeds
where my words are, I designed and
installed a solar/wind system 11
years ago, even though connection to
the electricity grid would have been
cheaper at the time.
Designed to, among other things,
run a 100W computer it now runs two
350W+ computers (I also do program
ming as a hobby). Although the battery
capacity is quite sufficient I wouldn’t
mind having another few solar panels.
Thus I enquired about the solar rebate
program that the Victorian State Gov
ernment has in place at the moment.
However, the convoluted process of
obtaining the rebate, together with the
invasion of privacy, is worse than that
to obtain a shooter’s licence. And this
last one is very obviously designed
to keep you from having shooting
as your chosen sport. Of course the
bureaucrats expect you to use “SEIA
(Aust) Accredited Renewal Energy
Installers” and dare I mention it,
electricians also suitably stamped by
the bureaucracy as experts. One look
at the enclosed system planner will
have you in stitches at first, but then
you sadly ask yourself if this will ever
be the clever country as long as this
clammy hand tries to smother any free
thought or enterprise.
In the “typical power” of the plan
ner, a computer uses between 8W and
120W (most monitors have a 150200W power supply but never mind),
toasters 600W (slow toaster), etc.
Every bathroom with a woman worth
her hair has a hairdryer taking around
1000W but that is left out altogether.
Then, at the bottom of the page,
is the biggest spark of brightness:
“allowance for system losses: 50%”,
yes, fifty. If that doesn’t put even the
greenest conservationist off, I’ll eat
my hat. Maybe I am unbelievably
clever that I have the most efficient
system in the world but somehow my
friends and I dismiss this possibility
out of hand.
Needless to say, I am going to spend
$2000 of my own money and not have
bureaucrat-stamped experts snooping
around my premises. Any electrician
would be horrified to find that all the
wiring is single conductor, 500mm
apart, so low capacitance and low
fire hazard. And how can no-earth be
much safer than earths all over the
place? No, I don’t want the poor fellow
spinning on his head.
It is a pity that the fiddlers have to
go underground. Lucky fiddlers like
Bell, Ericsson, Marconi and their likes
lived in a different time, otherwise it
would be a very dark and quiet world.
Politically incorrects will be tried
one dark day, so please withhold my
name if you publish this letter. Till
that dark day I hope to continue en
joying SILICON CHIP.
Silicon Chip Binders
Each binder holds up to 14 issues Heavy board
covers with 2-tone green vinyl covering SILICON CHIP
logo printed in gold-coloured lettering on spine & cover
REAL
VALUE
AT
$12.95
PLUS P
&
P
Price: $A12.95 plus $A5 p&p each (Australia only; not
available elsewhere). Buy five and get them postage free.
Just fill in & mail the handy order form in this issue; or
fax (02) 9979 6503; or ring (02) 9979 5644 & quote
your credit card number.
December 2000 33
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions from
readers are welcome and will be paid for at standard rates.
Multi-station intercom
uses CB microphones
This intercom unit can connect
any number of units together, rather
than the limit of two, as with most
designs. In practice, the number of
stations required would normally
number less then 10.
The circuitry is based on the
CHAMP LM386 amplifier published
in the February 1994 issue of
SILICON CHIP and the Pre-CHAMP
two-transistor preamplifier pub
lished in July 1994.
Each intercom station comprises
the circuit shown here, built into a
CB microphone. Any station on the
system can call any other station
connected to the line. It has auto
34 Silicon Chip
matic line-load protection for the
power amplifiers and an auto-mut
ing ability. It runs off any 12V DC
source which may be a plugpack
or battery.
You can use any CB microphone
provided it has a momentary pushto-talk (PTT) switch. All you have
to do when all units are built and
connected is simply press the but
ton on the CB microphone and talk.
Let go of the button to listen to the
reply from the other station(s). In
fact, you use this intercom exactly
like you would a CB radio. The
microphone PTT switch provides
power (black wire) to the intercom
and the relay.
Each unit also has a normally
off (NO) pushbutton that is used
as a “Call” button. Simply press
this button and the speakers at all
stations will beep. The beep tone is
generated by the 555 which is wired
as an oscillator.
Each speaker has a 3.9Ω 1W series
resistor and each set of relay con
tacts has a series 10Ω 1W resistor.
These are included to protect any
and all of the LM386 amplifiers,
regard
less of any combination of
intercom stations being simultane
ously connected to the line.
The bypass switch (S1) on the
speaker allows you to mute your
station without upsetting the total
line load for the other stations on
the line.
Graeme Rixon,
Otago, NZ. ($45)
Solar-charged
battery regulator
This design was developed to im
prove the reserve supply on a solar/
battery powered communications
site. Most solar regula
tors charge
the batteries to a nominal voltage of
around 14V whereupon the charger
is disconnected. The battery then
discharges to around 13.5V and the
charger is reconnected and so the
cycle continues. But when the regu
lator is disconnected, there is unused
charging energy which goes to waste.
This regulator system works in a
similar way except that there are two
batteries, main and reserve. When
the main battery is fully charged, the
solar panel is connected to charge
the reserve battery, so that no solar
energy is wasted.
Op amps IC1a & IC1b are wired
as comparators and these compare
the charged battery voltage, via ad
justable voltage dividers, to the 6.2V
reference provided by REG2, a 7805
regulator “jacked up” by two diodes,
D1 & D2.
When the main battery voltage is
between 13.5V and 14.5V, the output
of IC1a is low while IC1b is high. IC1b
turns on transistor Q3 which provides
the negative supply (earth) to relay
RLY1. However, since the output of
IC1a is low, Q1 & Q2 will be off and
the relay won’t operate. While the
relay is not energised, the solar array
is connected to the main battery.
When the battery voltage reaches
14.5V, the output of IC1a goes high,
turns on Q2 & Q1 and energises the
relay. The relay should be a DPDT
having at least two sets of contacts.
One set of contacts must be able to
handle the full current from the solar
panel. Alternatively, you could use a
4PDT relay and parallel three of the
four sets of the contacts.
The other set of contacts is used to
latch the relay when it is energised.
At the same time, the main battery is
disconnected and the solar panel is
connected to the reserve battery. This
is maintained until the main battery
discharges to 13.5V and the output
of IC1b goes low, turning off Q3 and
unlatching the relay.
Peter Howarth,
Gunnedah, NSW. ($35)
AT LAST!
Electronics TestBench
This is it: the one you’ve been asking for! SILICON CHIP’s ELECTRONICS
TEST BENCH is a valuable 128-page collection of the best test equipment
projects from the pages of Australia’s best electronics magazine.
Available now from your newsagent or
direct from the publishers
ONLY $13.20 INC P&P AND GST
Silicon Chip Publications, PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097
Phone Orders: (02) 9979 5644 Fax Orders: (02) 9979 6503 Email Orders: office<at>silchip.com.au
December 2000 35
2-Channel Guitar Preamp; Pt.2
Digital Reverb
This reverberation unit will add “life” to
your guitar, making a small room sound
much more spacious. It can be used with
our 2-Channel Guitar Preamplifier, added
to some other piece of equipment or even
used as a freestanding unit.
By JOHN CLARKE
In a live performance, reverberation
is naturally caused by the multiple
echoes that occur in a concert hall
long after the original sound source has
died away. These multiple echoes are
mainly caused by the sound reflecting
off the walls, floor and ceiling of the
venue. The sound absorption char
acteristics of the reflecting surfaces
determine the reverberation time; ie,
the time it takes for the sound to die
away to nothing.
Without some reverberation, music
can sound dead or flat. Just how much
effect it has can be realised when we
recall hearing the sounds produced by
36 Silicon Chip
an organ or choir in a large auditori
um or church. How lifeless would it
be if there were no walls to reflect this
sound and add reverberation?
However, reverberation is not al
ways a good thing and too much can
affect the intelligibility of speech.
Ideally, the amount of reverberation
should be made adjust
able, to suit
the particular venue. However, you
really don’t have much control over
the natural reverberation that exists
at a particular venue. What’s more,
reverberation can be practically non
existent in small venues and where
there are lots of soft furnishings that
absorb sound.
As a result, a live performance can
seem dull and lifeless but there is a
way around this. By feeding the sound
through an electronic reverberation
unit, you can add just the effect you
want to make your performances
sound great. In effect, you can be
transported to the concert hall of your
dreams – figuratively speaking.
Digital reverb
The SILICON CHIP Digital Reverber
ation Unit is based on two Mitsubishi
M6580P digital delay ICs. These are
set up to simulate the different echo
effects that naturally occur within
concert hall.
The overall effect is similar to that
produced by a dual-spring reverber
ation unit such as the one described
in our January 2000 issue. However,
this new solid-state unit has several
advantages over the electromechani
cal types.
First, unlike the spring-based units,
it is not microphonic in any way. This
can be a problem with spring-based
units, since any movement of the unit
Fig.1: the block diagram for the Digital
Reverberation Unit. It includes two
digital delay lines, the outputs of which
are mixed with the direct signals in IC3.
The delayed signals are also fed back
to two input mixers (IC1a & IC1b) and
then fed through the delay lines again to
provide the decay feature.
can cause “spring noise” and lead to
unwanted sound.
Second, you can alter the delay
times to change the effect if desired,
something that is impractical on a
spring-based unit. Finally, the noise,
distortion and frequency response
characteristics are much better than
the spring reverb units can deliver.
As shown in the photos, the unit is
built on a single PC board and is easy
to assemble. The board measures 173 x
109mm and fits easily into the chassis
of the 2-Channel Guitar Preamplifier,
behind the preamplifier boards.
Note that when used with the
2-Channel Guitar Preamplifier, the
unit is in the effects loop. This means
that the input is driven by the Effects
Send output and the output from the
Main Features
•
•
•
•
Dual delay for added effect
Direct plus reverb signal mixing
Decay and delay time can be
altered
Reverb and direct signal mixing
can be altered
December 2000 37
reverb unit is then fed back into the Effects
Return socket. The reverberation signal is
then mixed in with the main (or direct)
signal from the preamplifier stages, as
described last month.
Alternatively, you can build the unit
into a freestanding case on its own. You
would have to add a power supply (this
could be the same as the one used in the
preamp unit) and a couple of RCA sockets
for the input and output signals. You also
need to add a couple of extra resistors
(R3 & R3') to provide the direct signal
components (more on this later).
Block diagram
Take a look now at Fig.1; this shows the
block diagram of the circuit.
What we’re doing here is first sending
the input signal to two mixer stages. These
then drive separate delays lines and the
outputs from these are then mixed with
the direct signals in another mixer stage
to produce an output signal.
In greater detail, IC1a and IC1b form
the input mixers. IC1a then drives IC2
which provides a 32.8ms delay, while
IC1b drives IC4 which gives a 20ms
delay. The delayed outputs from IC2 and
IC4 are then fed to mixer stage IC3.
As well as going to IC2 and IC4, the
undelayed outputs from mixer stages IC1a
and IC1b are also fed directly to IC3. This
undelayed signal is important because
it provides the audience with the direct
signal, before the delayed signals arrive.
After all, this is how the sound arrives in
a real environment – the direct sound is
heard before the reflected signals.
However, it’s not enough to simply
provide a direct signal and a couple of
delayed signals – that won’t provide
reverberation. What we need is a series
of delayed signals that gradually decay
to nothing.
These reverberation (decay) signals
are produced by also feeding the outputs
from the digital delay chips (IC2 & IC4)
back to their respective input mixers. As
the signals pass through the delays, they
are fed back to the mixer inputs but at a
slightly reduced level.
As a result, the original signals are
repeatedly delayed until they eventually
decay to a very low level. The time taken
for a signal to decay away (ie, by 60dB) is
the reverberation or decay time.
The decay rate and the various mixing
levels can be easily adjusted by changing
resistor values, to produce the required
effect. In addition, the delay time for IC2
can be changed in approximate 0.5ms
increments from 0.5ms to 32.8ms using
38 Silicon Chip
Fig.2: the complete circuit diagram for the Digital Reverberation Unit. Digital delay line IC4 operates with the default
20ms delay, while IC2 operates with a 32ms delay due to the data clocked into its Data input at switch-on. This data
is provided by the delay preset circuit (IC5-IC8).
December 2000 39
Fig.3: the codes
required for
IC2. Data (lower
trace) from IC8 is
transferred to IC2
on each negative
edge of the SCK
signal (middle
trace). During this
time, the REQ line
(top trace) must
be low to enable
the following 12
SCK clock pulses.
The positive edge
of REQ signals the
end of the serial
data stream and
loads the data in
IC2.
different linking options for the delay
preset control (see Table 3).
Circuit details
Fig.2 shows the complete circuit
details for Digital Reverberation Unit.
It uses eight separate ICs, including the
two digital delay chips (IC2 and IC4).
Although the circuit sections for IC2
and IC4 may appear to be the same at
first glance, there are important dif
ferences between them. First, unlike
IC2, IC4 has its SCK (clock), REQ (re
quest) and Data inputs (pins 5, 4 & 6)
all tied low. As a result, IC4 is reset at
power-on to operate with the default
delay period which is 20ms.
IC2, on the other hand, has its SCK,
REQ and Data pins connected to a de
lay control circuit. This circuit is used
to “program” IC2 at power-on so that it
provides a 32ms delay. Once this has
been done, the delay control circuit
goes to “sleep” and takes no further
part in the action; it only operates to
program IC2 at switch-on.
In greater detail, IC1a functions as
an inverting amplifier. It operates with
a gain of -1 for the input signal and has
high-frequency rolloff above 19kHz
Fig.4: these oscilloscope traces show the two delay times.
The upper trace is the input signal while the lower trace
is the output after being delayed. The first delay period
occurs 20ms after the original while the second delay is
some 32ms after the original.
40 Silicon Chip
due to the 820pF capacitor between
pins 1 and 2.
The signal from IC1a’s output (pin
1) is fed to a low-pass filter stage con
sisting of 56kΩ and 27kΩ resistors
and 150pF and 560pF capacitors. This
filter network in turn forms part of
the feedback circuit of an internal op
amp at pins 22 & 23 of digital delay
chip IC2.
In operation, the low-pass filter
rolls off high-frequency signals above
15kHz at a rate of 40dB per decade
or 12dB per octave. This is done to
prevent high-frequency signals from
being converted into digital data by
IC2, which could cause errors.
IC2 samples the filtered analog
signal at its input and converts it to
digital format using an A/D converter.
The inte
grator components for this
A/D converter are at pins 20 & 21.
Basically, this RC network provides
feedback for another internal op amp.
The converted digital data is stored
in an internal memory, after which it
is clocked out and converted to analog
format using another internal op amp
stage. The integrating capacitor for
this stage is connected between pins
15 & 16 and the output signal appears
on pin 15.
Another lowpass filter stage on pins
13, 14 & 16 (consisting of 56kΩ resis
tors and 560pF and 150pF capacitors)
removes any digital artifacts.
Fig.5: the decay rate is shown in this oscilloscope trace.
The top signal is the input while the lower trace comprises
the output and the decay of the signal down to zero. The
decay is about 0.7 seconds. This was set using a 10kΩ
resistor for R1, the decay setting resistor.
A 1kΩ resistor and a .0047µF capac
itor at the output of the filter provide
a further rolloff for frequencies above
33kHz. The delayed signal is then
fed to pin 2 of mixer op amp IC3 via
mixing resistor R2 and a 1µF bipolar
capacitor. Similarly, the delayed signal
from IC4 is also fed to pin 2 of IC3, this
time via R2'.
In addition, the delayed signals are
mixed back into the inverting inputs of
IC1a and IC1b via R1 (R1') and series
1µF capacitors. As a result, the signal
makes multiple passes through the
digital delay chip, to provide the echo
effects. The value of R1 sets the decay
time; ie, the time it takes for the echoes
to fade away. The larger the value, the
shorter the decay time.
Note that op amps IC1a & IC1b are
biased at +2.5V via the 10kΩ resistors
connecting to their non-inverting
inputs (pins 3 & 5) from pin 19 (REF)
of IC2 & IC4 (this is the half-supply
voltage for IC2 & IC4).
Crystal X1 on pins 2 & 3 of IC2 sets
the internal clock frequency and de
termines the rate at which the digital
signal is clocked out of memory for
D/A conversion. The associated 100pF
capacitors and 1MΩ resistor are there
to provide correct loading for the
crystal, so that the clock starts reliably.
Delay time
As mentioned above, IC2’s delay
time is set via the REQ, SCK and DATA
inputs at pins 4, 5 & 6. To change the
delay time, a serial data stream must
be applied to the Data input at pin
6 and this is then clocked in at each
negative transition of the SCK (serial
clock) input.
The data stream is then accepted
on the rising edge of the REQ (request
data) input and includes various mute,
sleep and address codes, as well as the
delay information.
Normally, the SCK, REQ and Data
inputs are controlled by a microcon
troller but we’ve eliminated the need
for this by using four low-cost ICs
(IC5-IC8). These make up the delay
control circuit mentioned above. OK,
let’s see how this works.
When power is first applied, a 3.3µF
capacitor pulls the inputs of Schmitt
NAND gate IC6d high and so its pin
3 output is low. When the capacitor
subsequently charges via its associ
ated 100kΩ resistor, the pin 3 output
switches high and a short positivegoing reset pulse is applied to pin 15
(Reset) of IC7 via a .001µF capacitor.
IC8 is a 74HC165 serial shift regis
ter with parallel load inputs (D0-D7).
The first 8-bits of data are set by the
logic levels on the D0-D7 inputs and
these are loaded into the register when
power is first applied. The loaded data
is then clocked out on pin 9 but only
when pin 1 (the shift load input) of
IC8 is low.
The clock signals are derived from
IC5, a 4060 binary counter which has
a free running oscillator at pins 9, 10
& 11. This produces a clock signal at
Q4 (pin 7) which runs at twice the fre
quency of the signal at the Q5 output
(pin 5). Q4’s output is inverted by IC6b
which then clocks pin 2 of IC8 and pin
5 (SCK) of IC2.
Q5’s output is inverted by Schmitt
NAND gate IC6a which then clocks
IC7, a 4022 divide-by-8 counter, at pin
14. After two counts, the “1” output at
pin 1 of IC7 goes high and is entered
into IC8 via the serial input at pin 10
(DS). This high appears at the pin 9
output of IC8 after 10 clock cycles
on pin 2.
When the “6” output (pin 5) of IC7
subsequently goes high, IC5 is reset
and remains that way while ever pow
er is applied. At the same time, the
REQ input of IC2 also goes high, while
pin 11 of IC6c goes low to reset IC8.
The delay control circuit now remains
in this “suspended” state and plays no
further role in the circuit operation.
The oscilloscope trace of Fig.3
shows the required codes for IC2. The
Specifications
Delay times ................................................20ms (fixed) and 32.8ms (adjustable)
Decay time .................................................0.7 seconds (adjustable)
Signal handling ..........................................1V RMS max
Signal to noise ratio with respect to 1V ....-83dB unweighted (20Hz to 20kHz filter)
Frequency response ...................................-3dB <at> 20Hz & 10kHz
Harmonic distortion ...................................typically 0.3% at 1kHz and 1V RMS
Data (lower trace) from IC8 is trans
ferred to IC2 on each negative edge of
the SCK signal (middle trace). During
this time, the REQ line (top trace) must
be low to enable the following 12 SCK
clock pulses (ie, pin 12 of IC5 must be
low). The positive edge of REQ signals
the end of the serial data stream and
loads the data in IC2.
IC1b and IC4 operate in a similar
manner to IC1a and IC2 but without
the delay control circuit. Instead, IC4
Parts List
1 PC board, code 01112001,
173 x 109mm
2 2MHz parallel resonant
crystals (X1,X2)
1 500mm length of 0.8mm tinned
copper wire
7 PC stakes
Semiconductors
2 M65830P or M65830BP (but
not M65830AP) Mitsubishi
delays (IC2,IC4)
1 TL072, LF353 dual op amp
(IC1)
1 TL071, LF351 op amp (IC3)
1 4060 binary counter (IC5)
1 4022 divide-by-8 (IC7)
1 4093 quad Schmitt NAND gate
(IC6)
1 74HC165 8-bit serial shift
register (IC8)
1 7805 5V regulator (REG1)
1 1N914, 1N4148 switching
diode (D1)
Capacitors
2 100µF 16VW PC electrolytic
2 47µF 16VW PC electrolytic
5 10µF 35VW PC electrolytic
1 3.3µF 16VW PC electrolytic
10 1µF NP or BP electrolytic
7 0.1µF MKT polyester
4 .068µF MKT polyester
2 .0047µF MKT polyester
1 .001µF MKT polyester
3 820pF ceramic
5 560pF ceramic
4 150pF ceramic
4 100pF ceramic
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
2 1MΩ
13 10kΩ
1 100kΩ
1 6.8kΩ
1 47kΩ
2 1kΩ
8 56kΩ
1 220Ω 5W
4 27kΩ
1 150Ω
1 22kΩ
December 2000 41
IN
OUT
OUT
10F
10k
150
1F
56k
33
560pF
150pF
560pF
56k
33
.068F
47F
56k
56k
56k
27k
IC4
M65830P
0.1F
0.1F
1
1M
X2
56k
BP
150pF
27k
100F
0.1F
27k
1k
820pF
10k
1k
0.1F
150pF .068F
BP
150pF
X1
1
2 x 10F
10k
IC3
TL071
R2'
R2
10k
820pF
BP 1F
.0047F
560pF
BP
2x
100pF
IC2
M65830P
REG1
7805
10F
1F
10k
100F
1M
IC7
4022B
22k
BP
1
.068F
IC5
4060B
6.8k
BP
.068F
47k
1N
4148
BP
1F
0.1F
D1
BP
R3'
R1'
.0047F
.001F
1
BP
10k
1
IC6
4093B
1
1F
1F
IC1
TL072
820pF
10k
10k
IC8
74HC165
1
2x
100pF
10F
1F
10F
1
100k
1F
10k
BP
0.1F
1F
R1
SIG
GND
R3
1F
3.3F
+15V
15V
_
0V
IN
SIG
220
5W
GND
0.1F
560pF
47F
56k
27k
56k
560pF
Fig.6: install the parts on the PC board as shown on this wiring diagram. The ICs all face in the same direction.
operates with the default 20ms delay
period, as described previously.
Mixing
IC3 mixes the delayed signals with
the direct signals from pin 1 of IC1a
& IC1b. The delayed signals come in
via R2 & R2', while the direct signals
are applied via R3 and R3'.
The values of these resistors set the
amount of mixing in IC3, while R1 &
R1' set the reverberation or decay time.
The values chosen will depend on the
application of the reverberation unit.
When connected to the 2-Channel
Guitar Preamplifier, only R1 and R2
are used because the Reverb Unit is
in the effects loop.
In other applications, however, you
may want to include R3 and R3'. In
this case, you must use a larger value
for R2 so that there will be an audible
effect at IC3’s output.
Power supply
The Digital Reverberation Unit re
quires regulated supply rails of ±15V
and a single supply rail of +5V.
The +5V supply for IC2 & IC4-IC8
is derived from 3-terminal regulator
REG1. A 220Ω 5W resistor at the input
is used to reduce the dissipation in
42 Silicon Chip
the regulator, while the +5V output
is fil
tered using several electrolytic
capacitors and two 0.1µF ceramic
capacitors.
The circuit can also be operated
from a single +15V supply rail (instead
of ±15V rails) if the GND is connected
to the -15V rail. In fact, you can use
a regulated supply voltage down to
8V, although the 220Ω resistor at the
input of REG1 will need to be replaced
with a link.
Construction
The Digital Reverberation Unit is
built on a PC board coded 01112001
and measuring 173 x 109mm.
Begin the assembly by installing
the links and resistors. The resistor
colour codes and are shown in Table
2 or you can use a digital multimeter
to check each value before soldering
it to the board.
Note that if you are building the
unit to go in the 2-Chan
nel Guitar
Preamplifier, use 10kΩ resistors for
R1, R1', R2 & R2' but don’t install R3
or R3'. However, if the board is to be
built into other equipment or used as
a standalone unit, you must include
R3 and R3' (10kΩ) to get a direct signal
component. In that case, use 18kΩ
resistors for R2 and R2'.
The seven PC stakes can now be
soldered into place, followed by the
ICs. Take care to ensure that each IC
is correctly located and orientated
(the ICs all face in the same direction).
The convention is that pin 1 is always
adjacent a small dot or notch in the
plastic body.
Diode D1 can be installed next, fol
lowed by 3-terminal regulator REG1.
Again, make sure that these devices
go in the right way around.
Finally, install the two crystals (X1 &
X2) and the capacitors. Table 1 shows
the codes for ceramic and MKT types.
Testing
If you have a suitable power supply,
connect it to the board and check the
supply voltages to the ICs.
Assuming you are using a regulated
±15V supply, there should be +15V
on pin 8 of IC1 and pin 7 of IC3. Also
check for -15V on pin 4 of both IC1 &
IC3. Pins 1 & 24 of IC2 & IC4 should
be at 5V.
Alternatively, if you are using a
single supply rail (“-” input connected
to 0V), there should be +15V on pin 8
of IC1 and pin 7 of IC3. There should
also be 0V on pin 4 of IC1 and IC3. In
Fig.7: this is the full-size etching pattern for the PC board. Check your board carefully before installing any of the parts.
addition, check for +5V on pins 1 & 24
of IC2 and IC4, pin 14 of IC6 and pin
16 of IC5, IC7 & IC8.
Note that if you use a supply voltage
lower than 15V, the 220Ω 5W resistor
will have to be reduced in value or
shorted out completely. The input
voltage to the regulator needs to be
at least 8V.
Test & adjustment
You can test the reverberation board
by connecting a signal to the input (at
around 1V RMS) and the output to
an amplifier driving headphones or
loudspeakers. Check that the sound
has the reverberation added and that
the signal is undistorted.
Alternatively, if the board is built
into the 2-Channel Guitar Preamplifier,
you can check its operation simply
be winding up the Effects control. Of
course, you will have to feed a suitable
signal into the CH1 or CH2 input first
and monitor the output using head
phones or an amplifier.
If you wish, you can alter the rever
beration characteristics by changing
Table 1: Capacitor Codes
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
Value
IEC Code EIA Code
0.1µF 100n 104
.068µF 68n 683
.0047µF 4n7 472
.001µF 1n0 102
820pF 820p 821
560pF 560p 561
150pF 150p 151
100pF 100p 101
Table 2: Resistor Colour Codes
o
No.
o 2
o 1
o 1
o 8
o 4
o 1
o
13
o 1
o 2
o 1
o 1
Value
1MΩ
100kΩ
47kΩ
56kΩ
27kΩ
22kΩ
10kΩ
6.8kΩ
1kΩ
220Ω
150Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black green brown
brown black yellow brown
yellow violet orange brown
green blue orange brown
red violet orange brown
red red orange brown
brown black orange brown
blue grey red brown
brown black red brown
red red brown brown
brown green brown brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black yellow brown
brown black black orange brown
yellow violet black red brown
green blue black red brown
red violet black red brown
red red black red brown
brown black black red brown
blue grey black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
red red black black brown
brown green black black brown
December 2000 43
Table 3: How To Set Different Delays
For IC2 Using Linking On IC8
Delay
0.5ms
1.0ms
1.5ms
2.0ms
2.6ms
3.1ms
3.6ms
4.1ms
4.6ms
5.1ms
5.6ms
6.1ms
6.7ms
7.2ms
7.7ms
8.2ms
8.7ms
9.2ms
9.7ms
10.2ms
10.8ms
11.3ms
11.8ms
12.3ms
12.8ms
13.3ms
13.8ms
14.3ms
14.8ms
15.4ms
15.9ms
16.4ms
16.9ms
17.4ms
17.9ms
18.4ms
18.9ms
19.5ms
20.0ms
20.5ms
21.0ms
21.5ms
22.0ms
22.5ms
23.0ms
23.6ms
24.1ms
24.6ms
25.1ms
25.6ms
26.1ms
26.6ms
27.1ms
27.6ms
28.2ms
28.7ms
29.2ms
29.7ms
30.2ms
30.7ms
31.2ms
31.7ms
32.3ms
32.8ms
Pin 12
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
44 Silicon Chip
Pin 13
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
Pin 14
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
GND
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
Pin 3
GND
GND
GND
GND
+
+
+
+
GND
GND
GND
GND
+
+
+
+
GND
GND
GND
GND
+
+
+
+
GND
GND
GND
GND
+
+
+
+
GND
GND
GND
GND
+
+
+
+
GND
GND
GND
GND
+
+
+
+
GND
GND
GND
GND
+
+
+
+
GND
GND
GND
GND
+
+
+
+
Pin 4
GND
GND
+
+
GND
GND
+
+
GND
GND
+
+
GND
GND
+
+
GND
GND
+
+
GND
GND
+
+
GND
GND
+
+
GND
GND
+
+
GND
GND
+
+
GND
GND
+
+
GND
GND
+
+
GND
GND
+
+
GND
GND
+
+
GND
GND
+
+
GND
GND
+
+
GND
GND
+
+
Pin 5
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
GND
+
the delay of IC2 and the values of
resistors R1, R1', R2, R2' and R3 & R3'.
The table shown on the main circuit
(Fig.2) indicates the ranges that can be
used for the resistors.
As mentioned in the text, the re
verberation decay times can be made
longer by decreasing the values for R1
and R1'. However, these resistor values
cannot be made too small, otherwise
the feedback signal will exceed the
input signal and the circuit will be
come unstable.
The R2 & R2' mixing resistors
determine the reverberation signal
levels applied to the final mixer (IC3).
Similarly, R3 & R3' set the undelayed
(direct) signal levels.
Note that when used with the
2-Channel Guitar Preamplifier, the
reverberation unit is in an effects loop,
whereby the signal is mixed in with
the main or direct signal. This means
that R3 & R3' are not required in this
situation.
However, if the reverb unit is
connected as an in-line effects unit,
resistors R3 & R3' must be included
to provide the direct signal. A value
of 10kΩ works well with 18kΩ values
for R2 & R2'.
If you’re prepared to experiment,
you can substitute trimpots for these
resistors so that you can adjust the
reverberation unit to your liking. This
done, the trimpots can be measured
using a multimeter and replaced with
fixed value resistors.
Changing the delay
Finally, the delay time for IC2 can be
changed by altering the connections to
pins 3, 4, 5, 12, 13 & 14 on IC8. Table
3 shows the connections required for
each possible delay time.
Note that the initial setting has
all these pins connected to +5V. To
make changes here, you have to cut
the thinned track sections connecting
these pins to the +5V track (ie, the
track connecting to pin 16 of IC8). You
then have to apply a solder bridge to
connect the disconnected pins to the
GND rail (on either side of IC8) instead.
Make sure that none of the pins
connects to both +5V and GND or the
supply will be shorted.
That completes the PC board assem
bly. In Pt.3 next month, we will show
you how to install it in the 2-Channel
Guitar Preamplifier case, along with
the two preamp boards and the power
SC
supply.
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
abc LCD PC LPT
ON
Via
PORT
Liquid Crystal Displays are used everywhere these days. But how do
they work? We’ll show you how to drive an LCD from your PC
keyboard. Then we show how to use the LCD to display and program
a temperature/thermostat chip. It’s a great project for beginners,
especially if you want to understand more about your computer.
By Peter Crowcroft and Frank Crivelli
Y
ou’ll find LCDs, or liquid
crystal displays, in a huge
variety of appliances, consumer
electronics and so on. Usually driven
by a microcontroller, they’ve become
very popular over recent years for
information transfer and instructions
and (usually!) make complicated
equipment easier to operate.
But how do you get the message
you want onto the LCD screen? It’s not
difficult, as this simple project shows.
Circuit description
The circuit (Fig.1) is quite straight
forward. In fact, most of the “work”
is undertaken by the large integrated
circuit hidden under the black blob on
the rear of the LCD module PC board.
All we have to do is provide that
module with the appropriate ASCII
codes and these come from your com
puter’s LPT1, or parallel, port.
The project could have been as sim
ple as that but we’ve gone one step fur
ther and added a temperature control
chip, the DS1620, which we can use
to make a simple but effective thermo
stat/thermometer in conjunction with
the LCD module. The remainder of the
circuitry is mainly power supply – and
even that is very simple.
Power is supplied from a 12V DC
plugpack, with diode D2 protecting
against reverse polarity on the DC
input jack (centre pin is positive).
Due to the low current requirements
of the kit, only a small (TO-92 pack)
5V regulator is required.
Resistors R2 and R3 hold the
DS1620 CLK and RST inputs low
when the kit is disconnected from the
PC. This allows the chip to work in
“stand-alone” mode.
Resistor R1 and diode D1 convert
the separate data input and output
lines from the PC to the single bidi
rectional data line on the DS1620.
When writing to the chip, R1 pulls DQ
high when pin14 of the parallel port
(AUTO) is high. DQ is pulled low via
D1 when AUTO is low. When reading
from the DS1620, AUTO must be set
high first. This high is blocked by D1
so that the DQ output can drive pin 10
of LPT1 (ACK).
The liquid crystal display
LCDs come in many shapes and
December 2000 53
Front view of the pre-built Liquid Crystal Display
(LCD) module used in this project. It has 2 lines of 16
characters. All these pics are shown same size.
sizes but amongst the most common is
the type we have used in this project,
a 16 character x 2 line display.
It requires only 11 connections
– eight bits for data (which can be
reduced to four if necessary) and three
control lines (we have only used two
here).
This particular display, an MC162-2, runs from a 5V DC supply and
The same module viewed from the rear. Under that
big black blob is a chip which does all of the work in
driving the display. All you have to do is talk to it!
only needs about 1mA. The display
contrast can be varied by changing
the voltage into pin 3 of the display,
usually with a trimpot.
The display requires eight bits of
data, a register
select line (RS)
and a strobe line
(E), which are
supplied from
Here’s what you get in the kit. On top is the preassembled LCD module, with the
main PC board underneath. The software is on the 3.5-inch floppy while all the
components are separately packed in plastic. Inset at top is the kit as supplied.
54 Silicon Chip
the PC printer port. A third input,
read/write (R/W), is normally used to
read or write data to and from the LCD.
In this kit the R/W line is tied low so
only “writes” to the LCD are possible
(more on this later).
The eight bits of data
are supplied from the
printer port data lines
and two printer port con
trol lines are used for RS
(‘auto’) and E (‘strobe’).
Basically the LCD has
two registers – a data
register and a control
register. Data is written
into the control register
when RS is low and into
the data register when RS
is high. Data is latched
into the LCD register on the falling
edge of ‘Enable’.
The sequence for writing data to
the LCD is:
1. To begin, E is low
2. Select the register to write to by setting
RS high (data) or low (control)
3. Write the eight bits of data to the LCD
4. Set the Enable signal high then low again.
There are certain minimum timing
requirements that must be followed
when writing to the LCD, such as data
setup times and Enable signal pulse
width. These are in the order of tens
and hundreds of nanoseconds.
Extra timing delays are also intro
duced by the capacitance of the cable
used to connect to the PC printer port.
Delay routines may be needed when
using fast PCs to meet these timing
requirements. The software supplied
includes these delay routines.
LCD displays have a ‘busy’ flag that
is set while it is executing a control
command but in our case this flag is
not accessible because the R/W line
has been tied low (write).
This is not such a problem because
all commands have a maximum
execution time. We simply wait for
Unlike the LCD module, you have to assemble this PC
board yourself. But as you can see, there’s not much to it.
The most difficult bit is the D-25 socket at the bottom.
this time to pass before accessing the
LCD again, eliminating the need to
check the flag and thereby saving on
an I/O line!
For example, the ‘Clear Display’
command has an execution time of
approx. 1.6ms. After sending this
command to the LCD we simply wait
2ms before continuing on. This en
sures that the command has finished.
Characters to be displayed are written
into the LCD’s ‘data’ memory (RAM).
The amount of RAM available de
pends on the type of LCD. The LCD
used in this kit has 80 bytes of RAM.
An internal address counter holds
the address of the next byte to write
to. These 80 bytes are broken up into
two blocks of 40 bytes. The address
range of the first block is from 00H
to 27H and the second block from
40H to 67H.
After power up and initialisation,
address 00H is the first character of
the top line and address 40h is the
first character of the bottom line. The
address counter is set to address 00H
and is automatically incremented
after each byte is written.
If we now start writing data to the
LCD, it will be stored from address
00H on but only the first 16 characters
will be visible. To display the rest of
the characters we need to ‘scroll’ the
display.
Scrolling simply means changing
the start address of each line. If we
scroll left one position, address 01H
becomes the first character of the top
And here it is with the LCD module plugged in and
running. Perhaps you’re wondering “how did they get a
message on the screen when nothing is plugged in...?”
Fig.1: the circuit is quite simple – just a 5V regulated power supply, a
DS1620 thermometer chip and the LCD. The LCD and DS1620 are
controlled via the parallel port of a PC.
December 2000 55
pcb overlay
line and address 41H the first charac
ter of the bottom line.
Scrolling right does the opposite –
addresses 27H and 67H become the first
characters of the top and bottom lines.
As you can see, each block of ad
dresses ‘wrap’ around in a circular
manner. The next address after 27H
is 00H; the next address after 67H is
40H. If we scroll left 40 times we will
bring address 00H back into view as
the last character on the top line.
The address ranges of each block
are not continuous. There is a gap
of 24 bytes between the end of the
first block (27H) and the start of the
second (40H).
So if we keep writing characters to
the display, the first 40 will be stored
in addresses 00H to 27H, the next 24
will be ‘lost’ and the next 40 will be
stored at addresses 40H to 67H.
The internal address counter is
directly accessible so we can set
the next address to write to. This is
how the characters are written to the
second line of the LCD. For example,
we can send 5 characters to the first
line, set the address counter to 40H
and then start writing characters to
the second line.
The DS1620 chip
The DS1620 is a Digital Ther
mometer/Thermostat IC from Dallas
Semiconductor. It measures temper
atures from -55°C to +125°C (-67°F to
+257°F) in 0.5°C increments and has
56 Silicon Chip
Fig.2: there’s not
much to assemble
on the PC board.
Just take care with
component
polarities – and
don’t mix up
diodes D1 and D2!
Also note that the
X3 “GND” and
“V+” printed labels
on the PC board
were back to front
on early boards:
what is shown
here is correct.
three “alarm” outputs. It requires no
calibration or external components.
(If you want to know more about
this chip you can download the data
sheet from www.dalsemi.com).
The three alarm outputs, designated
THIGH, TLOW and TCOM function as
follows:
·THIGH goes high when the meas
ured temperature is greater than or
equal to a user-defined upper limit
(TH).
·TLOW goes high when the measured
temperature is less than or equal to a
user-defined lower limit (TL).
·TCOM goes high when the tempera
ture exceeds the upper limit and stays
high until the temperature falls below
the lower limit.
These three outputs can be used to
directly control heating and cooling
appliances via suitable drive circuitry
(eg, relays and optocouplers).
Data is read from and written to the
DS1620 via a 3-wire serial interface
(DQ, CLK and RST). The user-defined
upper and lower trip points are stored
in the IC in non-volatile memory.
This means that the trip points are
‘remembered’ even when the power
is removed.
The DS1620 can be used in two
modes – Three-Wire mode for in
terface to a computer or Standalone
mode.
This last mode does not require a
computer interface. With RST and
CLK low, the chip will continuously
monitor the temperature and set the
alarm outputs accordingly.
This means that once you have
programmed the upper and lower trip
points the kit can be disconnected
from the PC and you can use the alarm
outputs for monitoring or control
functions. You can even remove the
chip from its socket and put it in your
own temperature controller, using the
kit simply as a DS1620 programmer.
Temperature registers in the DS1620
are nine bits long and can be positive
or negative values. Each reading has
a resolution of 0.5° C. For positive
temperatures, the most significant bit
(bit 8) = 0 and bits 1-7 hold the integer
value. Bit 0, if set, adds 0.5°.
For negative temperatures, bit 8
= 1 and bits 7-0 represent the two’s
complement of the temperature. To
get the actual value, invert bits 7-0
then add 1.
The DS1620 is controlled via a set of
8-bit instructions. Depending on the
instruction, an 8 or 9-bit data value
is either read from or written to the
chip. All instructions and data are
transferred serially starting with the
least significant bit D0.
To read or write a value to the
DS1620:
1. To begin, RST is low and CLK high.
2. RST high
3. CLK low
4. Set DQ equal to bit 0 of instruction
5. CLK high
6. Repeat steps 3, 4 and 5 for
remaining instruction bits
To write to the chip:
7. Repeat steps 3, 4 and 5 for bits 0-7
or 0-8 of the data to be written
8. RST low for at least 5ms
To read from the chip do Steps 1
through 6 above then:
7. Set the AUTO signal high so that
data can be read from the DS1620
8. CLK low. DQ now outputs the data to
be read (LSB first)
9. Read and store DQ
10. CLK high
11. Repeat steps 8, 9 and 10 for the remaining bits of data to be read
12. RST low
As with the LCD, certain mini
mum timing requirements must be
observed between each of these steps.
In particular, RST must remain low
for at least 5ms after writing data to
the DS1620 (step 8). This gives the
chip’s internal EEPROM time to store
the data. Also, the DS1620 needs one
second to execute a ‘start-convert’
presence of parallel ports in order,
according to Table 1. The first port
found becomes LPT1, the second
LPT2, and so on. The BIOS stores the
base address of each port found in a
table in the BIOS variable segment of
memory, as follows:
Table 3 -- LPT Base Addresses
Here’s how the LCD module mounts
to the main PC board. The back of the
module has a 16-way header pin set
which mates with a 14-way socket on
the board.
instruction. So, after starting a tem
perature conversion, you must wait
1 second before reading the result.
The PC parallel port
There are three common address
ranges used for parallel port interfac
es, as follows:
Table 1 -- Parallel Port Addresses
3BCh - 3BFh
378h - 37Fh
278h - 27Fh
Parallel interface on
monochrome or TTL
video card
Parallel interface 1 (LPT1)
Parallel interface 2 (LPT2)
The standard PC parallel port con
sists of three registers, each referred
to by their functional name. These
registers occupy the first three ad
dresses in the range. The first address
in the range is referred to as the base
address.
Table 2 -- Base Registers
Data register Base address
Read/Write
Status register Base address + 1 Read only
Control register Base address + 2 Read/Write
For example, for parallel interface 1,
the data register would be at address
378H, status register at address 379H
and control register at address 37AH.
Note that the data and control
registers can be written to and read
from. This does not mean that they
are bidirectional. It means that the
outputs of these registers can be read
back to check their status.
During the system boot-up se
quence, the BIOS tests for the
ADDRESS
0040:0008H
CONTENTS
Base address of LPT1
0040:000AH
0040:000CH
Base address of LPT2
Base address of LPT3
0040:000EH
Base address of LPT4
(If address=0 then there is no port for that
LPT number.)
Every signal line on the port,
whether it is used for read/input or
write/output, is allocated one particu
lar bit at one of the three addresses
Base, Base+1 or Base+2. The logic
state of the bit indicates the state of
the wire (0V or 5V.) The following
table shows each printer port sig
nal used by the kit and the register,
address and bit position associated
with it. The last three signal names
are preceded by a minus sign. This
means that the signal is active low.
Writing a high to the bit causes the
signal to go low.
Table 4 -- Signal Line Attributes
Signal
D0 D7
ACK
-STROBE
-AUTO
INIT
-SLCTIN
Reg.
Data
Status
Control
Control
Control
Control
Addr.
Bit Direction
Base 0 - 7
Base+1 6
Base+2 0
Base+2 1
Base+2 2
Base+2 3
Output
Input
Output
Output
Output
Output
Construction
There aren’t very many components
to place on the PC board so chances
of errors aren’t high – another feature
which makes this a great project for be
ginners. On the negative side, though,
your soldering skills will be tested!
As with all projects, before placing
or soldering components, check the
PC board for obvious defects – bridg
es or shorts between tracks which
shouldn’t be there, broken tracks, etc.
Start with the lowest profile compo
nents – the resistors and the wire link
(use a resistor offcut for this). The two
diodes are next but take care that you
not only get them in the right places
Parts List – LCD Interface
1 PC board, K134, 83 x 71mm
1 Liquid Crystal Display
module, 16 x 2 characters
1 2.5mm DC jack, PCB
mounting (X2)
1 D25 male connector, rightangle PCB mounting (X1)
1 5-pin SIL header (X3)
1 8-pin IC socket for IC1
1 14-pin SIL socket for LCD
1 14-pin SIL header for LCD (16
pin supplied in kit)
2 screws, 2.6mm x 18mm long
6 nuts, 2.6mm
1 software floppy disk
Semiconductors
1 DS1620 digital thermometer
and thermostat (IC1)
1 78L05 +5V regulator, TO-92
package (IC2)
1 1N4148 (D1)
1 1N4004 (D2)
Capacitors
1 100µF 25V electrolytic (C1)
1 10µF 25V electrolytic (C2)
1 0.1µF monobloc
(C3)
Resistors (0.25W carbon)
4 10kΩ
(R1-4)
1 10kΩ trimpot (VR1)
A complete kit of parts, including software, is available from
all Jaycar Electronics stores for
$69.95. (Cat KD-6082).
but with the right polarity. The power
diode is the larger black diode and it
is the one which goes in the top right
corner of the board.
Place the capacitors next, again tak
ing care with type and polarity. If you
haven’t used electrolytic capacitors
before, the negative lead is marked by
a row of “–” symbols down the side
of the capacitor adjacent to that lead.
Now solder in the trimpot, voltage
regulator and DC socket. The trimpot
and DC socket can only go one way
but the voltage regulator could be
mounted back-to-front if you’re not
careful: it must go in the same way as
indicated on the board.
Mount the 5-way header pin set and
the IC socket – again, make sure that
the IC socket is oriented the same way
as indicated on the board.
When soldering the D connector,
December 2000 57
IC socket and header pins, you will
need to be particularly careful not to
form solder bridges between the pins.
A fine-tipped, clean iron is essential
–and if you don’t want to strain your
eyes, some form of magnifying lens
is very handy (especially for us older
dudes whose close-up eyesight ain’t
what it used to be!).
You should now have only a couple
of components left: a header pin set
and matching socket and a 25-pin D
connector. The D connector might
cause you a little bit of angst because
it has to be very carefully aligned to go
into its holes. You cannot put it in at
an angle – the pins at the opposite end
will miss their holes. But it does go in!
The last component to mount on the
main PC board is the 14-way header
pin socket.
The 16-way header pin set has to
be soldered to the display module.
This needs to be exactly vertical and
is soldered on the same side as the
LCD (ie, the header pins emerge from
the underside of the board. At the risk
of boring you, we must repeat – these
pins are very close together. Watch out
for solder bridges!
Just in case you’re wondering, no,
we haven’t made a mistake with the
number of pins in the header pin and
sockets. The pin set has 16 pins, the
socket 14 pins. Two pins are unused
in this project and simply hang off
the end of the socket when later as
sembled.
Don’t assemble it yet – nor, for that
matter, insert the DS1620 IC. We’re
going to check the board first.
But even before that, give your board
the once-over to make absolutely sure
your component placement is correct
and that you have neither missed any
pins while soldering nor soldered any
bridges. Obviously, if you find any
mistakes, correct them first.
It’s best to take your time and not
make any mistakes in the first place.
But if you do have to unsolder compo
nents – especially things like PC header
pins or IC sockets – you’ll find it almost
impossible without using either solder
wick (which soaks up the solder, free
ing the pins) or a solder sucker (which
does the same thing by suction).
Power
This project is designed to run from
a 12V DC supply which is then regu
lated to 5V by the 78LS05. An ideal
supply would be a 12V plugpack – be
58 Silicon Chip
cause the circuit draws so little power,
just about any 12V DC plugpack you
find should be OK.
BUT! (Don’t you just hate those
buts?) The DC socket on the board is
designed to suit 2.5mm plugs and, try
as we might, we couldn’t find a 12V DC
plugpack in our junkbox with a 2.5mm
plug. Plenty of 2.1mm – which don’t
quite fit – but no 2.5s. If you’re in the
same position, the obvious answer is
to cut the 2.1mm plug off and solder
on a 2.5mm plug.
Just one thing – make sure the centre
contact is the positive contact. If it’s
the other way around you won’t do
any damage (thanks to the protective
diode) but it won’t work, either...
Testing and final assembly
This is simply a check that the
project powers up as it should. With
out the IC or LCD module plugged
in, connect your 12V DC source and
measure the voltage between pins 4
and 8 of the IC socket (see the diagram
to determine which pins those are).
You should get a reading very close to
5V (between about 4.9V and 5.1V). If
not, disconnect the power and check
your PC board once again.
If you get 5V, disconnect power,
wait a minute or so for the capaci
tors to discharge, then plug in the IC
(watch its orientation!) and the LCD
module.
As we mentioned before, the two
pins closest to the middle of the
module are not used and simply hang
out in mid-air at the end of the 14-pin
socket.
Reconnect power and you should
find a row of black squares on the
display. If you don’t, adjust the pot
until you do. (The other thing that
affects the contrast of the display is
Please Note
On early versions of the PC board
silk-screened overlay, the two end
pins of header pin set X3 were
labelled incorrectly. With the D25
connector at the bottom, the GND
(ground) pin should be the left-most
pin and the V+ pin the right-most
pin. PC boards in new kits should
be correct but check yours, just in
case! Incidentally, that V+ is not
the regulated 5V supply but the full
supply voltage from the nominal
12V plugpack – which could be as
high as 16V or so.
the angle at which you’re viewing it.
Best is straight on).
Once you’re happy that it’s working,
remove the display module from its
socket and insert screws in the two
uppermost corner holes. Place a nut
on each of these and tighten fully.
Now place another nut on each screw
and move it to about half-way along
the thread.
Replace the module in its header
socket, with the ends of the screws
through the appropriate holes in the
PC board underneath.
Rotate the two nuts so that they lie
on the top side of the PC board un
derneath, with the two boards exactly
parallel. Then insert the remaining
two nuts on the ends of the screws
and completely tighten.
Screw holes are provided on the
top side of the display PC board and
the board underneath but they are
redundant as the display board is held
securely in place by its header socket.
So far so good. You’re now ready to
fire up the PC and drive the display.
Connecting to the computer
Here’s a couple of real traps for
young players. And not-so-young,
either, ’cos we wuz trapped!
First of all, the cable: the module is
fitted with a 25-pin D “male” connec
tor and your computer’s parallel port
(LPT1) will be fitted with a 25-pin D
“female” connector. So all you need is
a 25-pin D male-to-female lead, right?
Yes . . . and no!
There are two types of commonly
available 25-pin D leads. One is sim
ply a “straight through” connection
(eg, pin 1 to pin 1, pin 10 to pin 10,
etc) and that is the type of lead you
require.
The other lead is intended for serial
ports (some of which also use 25-pin D
connectors!) and they are NOT straight
through wiring: some of the lines cross
over to other pins.
Guess which lead we grabbed from
our box of various computer leads? Of
course, Murphy’s law applied and we
tried to use the serial lead. And just
as “of course”, it didn’t work.
So make sure the lead you use is
the right one.
There is a second, less obvious
trap. And again, we got caught. The
software is written to suit a computer
with a parallel port (LPT1) at address
378H. Now 99% of computers will
have their LPT1 at this address, set
ex-factory. There are some comput
ers, though, which have their LPT1
at 278H. In normal circumstances, it
doesn’t matter – Windows for example
will work fine with either.
But this display won’t. It needs
378H. And guess which address our
computer used? Yes, it was 278H.
(To be fair, the PC is an old 486/50
“workhorse” which we use for all sorts
of project development and testing,
leaving our main networked system
for magazine production. Someone
at some time had a reason to change
LPT1 and it had never been changed
back again!).
So if you fire up the software and it
doesn’t work, those are the two most
obvious reasons why not. The first
problem is fixed by swapping leads.
The second requires either a moth
er-board jumper change or (in more
modern computers) a BIOS change
at boot-up.
Software
Two programs are supplied with
the kit and are also available for
downloading. Both are zipped into
one archive and will need to be un
zipped first.
Create a directory on your hard disk
and copy the zip file from the floppy
to it. Then use one of the many unzip
ping programs (eg, WinZip, PKunzip,
etc) to restore the files.
Along with several “jpg” images
which show how the kit is put together
(some of which are reproduced here)
are two .exe files which are the demon
stration files for use with the display.
There are other files, including “C”
files written under Borland Turbo C
for DOS. The .exe files (which are
compiled versions of the C files) are
designed to run under DOS (remember
that?) but also run quite happily in a
DOS box under Windows 95 or 98.
As most computers these days are
Windows boxes, it’s probably easier
to use them this way. Simply dou
ble click on one of the appropriate
.exe files and a DOS box will open,
running the software. The two demo
programs are:
K134LCD.EXE – this simply allows
the user to enter a message to be
displayed on the LCD. The message
can be up to 40 characters long. The
message can be stopped or scrolled
left or right and the scrolling rate can
be varied.
When the program is run, a menu
Use this same-size
PC board artwork
to check the board
supplied in your kit
– just in case.
is displayed on the PC from which
you choose the required function. At
the same time, the square boxes on
the display change to a message “PC
controlled LCD demonstration”. The
message is only displayed on the top
line of the display.
If the message is scrolling and it is
less than 40 characters long then a
number of spaces will be displayed
before the message starts again.
You can enter a new message by
selecting option 1 on the PC menu,
change the scrolling direction (2
and 3), stop scrolling (4), change the
scrolling speed (5) or exit the program
(0). The full ASCII set available from
the computer keys is echoed on the
display.
Disconnecting the display from the
serial port while a message is being
displayed freezes the display at that
point but does not lose the information
– reconnection will start the message
scrolling again, if that is what has
been selected.
K134TEMP.EXE – a “thermostat”
program that displays the current
temperature as well as the upper
(TH) and lower (TL) temperature ‘trip’
points, using the DS1620 IC mounted
on the same PC board as the display
components.
The value of the trip points can be
changed via the PC keyboard and the
user can choose between Celsius or
Fahrenheit display.
The DS1620 is configured to per
form continuous temperature conver
sions. Current temperature and trip
point data is continually read from
the DS1620 and compared with the
previous reading. If any of the three
values have changed then the display
is updated.
At the same time, the outputs (via
header pin set X3) will reflect the
status, as previously explained.
These three pins can be used to con
trol external equipment – eg, an alarm
or a heating element if the temperature
goes too low.
References
These days the internet is the place
to get information. But here are some
magazine references on LCD’s:
< “A Liquid Crystal Display Driven
From A PC Printer Port”, SILICON
CHIP, March 1998.
= “A PC-Controlled Thermometer/
Thermostat”, SILICON CHIP, June
1997.
> “Temperature Monitoring With
a Synchronous Serial Link”, MicroCom-puter Journal March/April
1995.
Some websites you might like to
visit are:
< beyondlogic.org (excellent,
must-visit site)
= geocities.com/ResearchTriangle/1495/ee_lcd.html
> iaehv.nl/users/pouweha/lcd.htm
woe/lcd
? pobox.com/~lcd_info
Or simply do a search on your
favourite search engine (eg, yahoo.
com) for ‘LCD parallel’ and you will
get hundreds of links to follow-up.
You can email the author at peter<at>
kitsrus.com if you have any problems
or requests.
Information on other kits in the
range is available from his web page
at kitsrus.com
SC
December 2000 59
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
History, symptoms & observations
These are the three basic rules behind any
approach to a service job – whether we are
conscious of them or not. But interrogating a
customer is not always easy. Most are helpful, but a few adopt a defiant “you-find-out”
attitude. And some are so vague and inept
that they are more hindrance than help.
My first story was a typical example
of the last point, although I didn’t
realise this immediately. Instead, I
took the customer’s observations at
face value.
Mrs Edwards needed a house call
for her TV set, since it was a 95cm
(37-inch) model that was too big to
bring in. And to help make the house
call worthwhile, she also had another
TV set which needed fixing. Both sets
had sound faults.
The larger set turned out to be a
1992 Grundig ST 95-775/9 PIP/TOP
with a CUC7890 chassis. The other
was a 1987 Philips KS786 with a
KL9A-3 chassis. But how hard can
a sound fault be? If nothing else, I
could fix the Philips and bail out of
the ageing Grundig, so I agreed to go.
The lady had switched both sets on
before I arrived and neither showed
any problem at all. I was somewhat
miffed at this but she insisted I stay
until the faults occurred. Fortunately,
the Philips didn’t take long – there
was a crackling coming from the
loudspeaker and when I removed the
back, I could see the EHT had been
sparking from a very dirty ultor cap.
I removed and cleaned the EHT lead
and made sure it was making good
contact before sealing it with silicone.
A piece of cake, I thought – now for
the Grundig which was running in
another room. This, too, was begin
ning to play up with slightly distorted
crackling but only in the left channel.
Using the remote control and se
lecting the audio menu, I moved the
60 Silicon Chip
stereo balance to the right and the
problem stopped. I told Mrs Edwards
that if she wanted this fixed, she
would have to wait while I ordered
the circuit manual. I explained about
the balance control and she seemed
quite happy with this.
The service manual duly arrived a
fortnight later and I phoned to make
an appointment. However, Mrs Ed
wards said that the set was now work
ing OK and that my services were no
longer needed. Such is life – I filed the
manual and moved on to other jobs.
It didn’t last, of course. Mrs Ed
wards was back on the phone three
months later, saying the Grundig was
“still playing up”. Patiently I asked
her to be more specific. Well, she
said, the sound was distorted in both
speakers, as before!
Because I now had the manual
and the audio output ICs in stock,
I decided to give it another go. But
I was more than a little concerned
about how vague Mrs Edwards was
with some of her comments.
When I arrived and checked the set
out, the distortion was still only in
the left channel – it was just that the
Items Covered This Month
• Philips KS786 TV set.
• Grundig ST 95-775/9 TV set.
• Panasonic NN-C855B microwave oven.
• Akai CT2869AUS TV set.
balance control had been returned to
the centre. Initially, I decided to re
place the left channel audio output IC
(IC4200, TDA2502H) and solder any
suspect joints I came across to see if
that fixed the problem.
The first obstacle I had to overcome
was the need to swing the TV set away
from the wall. Unfortunately, it was
sitting on a stand that didn’t have
castors, weighed about 100kg and had
to be slid across thick shag-pile car
pet. However, I eventually managed
to achieve this and remove the back.
The next problem was to figure out
how to remove the sound output mod
ule, which was held in with a series
of ingenious plastic clips (the service
manual doesn’t mentioned these).
After a struggle, I finally managed to
remove the module and replace the
left-channel IC. I then put it all back
together again and switched on but it
was still distorted in the left channel.
I then did what I should have done
when I first arrived and that was to
play around with the accessories on
this rather complicated TV set. The
problem was trying to familiarise my
self with such a complex set without
altering any settings that I might not
be able to restore.
I checked whether the TV system
had been correctly set as B/G for
Australia, which it was, but when I
selected the video via the AV (Audio/
Video output), I found that the sound
was fine in both channels. This proved
the problem wasn’t in the audio am
plifier stages at all.
Next, I tried to determine wheth
er the fault was the same in mono
transmission as well as stereo but
I couldn’t get any stereo reception!
The stereo indicators on the display
and in the menus wouldn’t alter at
all. The problem seemed to be in the
stereo decoder which was, as far as I
could see, part of the multi IF module.
By now, I had spent a lot of time on
this set without achieving anything,
so I decided I would go back to the
workshop and have a good think. If
only Mrs Edwards had been a little
more observant and more detailed
in her description of the fault – after
all they watch the set all the time.
And if only the set wasn’t so big and
heavy, so that I could get it into the
workshop.
Finally I contacted the agents to
find out the price and availability
of the ICs and modules. The parts
were all available but expensive and
I didn’t really have a clue as to what I
might need. I asked if I could speak to
technical support and was delightful
ly surprised to find out that not only
could I speak to someone but that he
actually knew – or was pretty sure he
knew – what the fault was.
In this set, there are two surface
mounted BC858 PNP tran
s istors
(CT2524 and CT2527) on the copper
side of the sound output module PC
board – one for the left channel and
one for the right – and these were the
nominated culprits. Armed with this
sort of 24-carat knowledge, I decided
to give it one more try in the house
and made an appointment after the
ordered transistors had arrived.
Back at the Edwards’ residence, I re
moved the sound output module and
sat down with it at a table. The first
problem was finding the two transis
tors, as they aren’t marked and there
is no component layout. Eventually,
I found them under a metal screen
soldered on the top lefthand side of
the PC board.
The next drama involved remov
ing these surface-mounted devices
(which are soldered and glued) with
out damaging the tracks on the board.
After that, I had to hold each of the
tiny new transistors in position with
a pair of tweezers while I soldered
their legs into place without applying
too much heat.
Finally, I reassembled everything
and was ever so relieved to hear clear
stereo sound from both channels.
Because the circuits don’t show the
interior block diagrams of the associ
ated ICs, I can only speculate on their
roles. IC2530 appears to be part of the
digital surround sound preamplifier
processor, while IC2350, IC2520 and
IC2510 make up the stereo decoder
(both Nicam and Zweiton) – this being
a multi-system TV set. Why the two
transistors failed I don’t know – I was
just happy to get out of there with the
job done.
A spooky microwave
Many electronic items are now so
cheap that they are no longer econom
ical to repair at all. Unfortunately, I
am old enough to remember fixing
6-transistor AM radios, whereas a
modern “boom box” – usually con
sisting of a CD player, dual cassette
and stereo AM/FM tuner – is no longer
worth fixing.
Video cassette players are border
line too, with new VCRs retailing at
just over $200 and the hifi models
starting at about $300. It is hard ad
vising someone who paid in excess
of $1000 many years ago that a better
performing machine is now available
at a third of the cost.
The same can also apply to comput
ers and to microwave ovens. I recently
saw a microwave oven advertised for
just $120! One wonders how they
can purchase the raw materials for
December 2000 61
Serviceman’s Log – continued
that! At the same time, the power
output has increased in these ovens
to almost double what it once was,
although many are now so small that I
wonder whether my coffee cup would
fit inside.
So what is all this leading up to?
Betty Carver brought in her rather
up-market Panasonic microwave
oven, somewhat grandly called “The
Genius Dimension 4”. This particular
model (NN-C855B) also includes a
convection oven, is about five years
old and would cost in excess of $600
to replace.
The problem, according Betty, was
that it intermittently “cooks by itself”
62 Silicon Chip
(ie, turns itself on) and sometimes she
couldn’t set the clock.
With all the safety circuits built into
ovens, I found it hard to believe that
it could turn itself on unaided and
suspected there were some two-legged
gremlins in her house. But she swore
that she had been woken in the mid
dle of the night by the audible alarm
noises that the oven makes when it
has finished cooking. Apparently,
she even went into the kitchen once
to find it on and cooking! More spe
cifically, the display read “7/8 Beef/
Pork”.
Intrigued by this somewhat spooky
story, I agreed to have a look at it. This
oven has a “Word Prompting Display”
with an operation guide built into the
microprocessor. When I switched it
on it said, “Welcome to Word Prompt
ing”, and I found that everything from
setting the time to convection cooking
all worked perfectly for me.
I left it on the soakbench and days
later, when I was about to phone Betty
and tell her that I could find nothing
wrong, it finally started its tricks. I
was in another part of the shop and
suddenly I could hear the oven beep
ing, followed by the noise of the relays
cutting in, the magnetron powering
up and the tray rotating. It was all
very X-files stuff, as no one else was
around. And why had it selected the
food category “8 Pork”.
I tried to stop it but it wouldn’t
immediately. After four tries it did
stop and then the oven would work
normally. It didn’t play up for the
rest of the day, and I was puzzled as
to how this had happened. Normally,
selecting “Pork” would require, as a
minimum, someone to press the 7/8
button twice and then press Start.
The next day, when powered up, it
wouldn’t let me change the clock or
do anything much. In the days that
followed, I found that this apparition
was also likely to occur when the
oven was switched on in the morn
ings, intermittently giving exactly the
symptoms Betty had described.
I opened the oven and found it to
be exceptionally clean. I then decided
to stop our “ghost” in his tracks by
disconnecting the membrane switch
panel from CN4 on the Digital Pro
grammer circuit board.
And this, at least, provided a clue.
The oven no longer operated by itself
but neither could I make it operate.
I then left it connected and the next
time it tried to cook by itself, I un
plugged it before it could complete
its sequence. Gradually, by plugging
and unplugging it, I convinced myself
that the source of the phantom cooker
was indeed the switch panel itself.
I ordered a new one and when it
arrived, I dismantled the front panel
and carefully pulled off the old switch
panel. I tried to examine the internal
parts of the switch membrane assem
bly (visible through the transparent
underside) but everything looked OK.
Finally, I pulled the paper backing
off from the new panel and glued it
to the front escutcheon before reas
sembling the unit. The unit was then
soak tested for three weeks and it now
worked perfectly.
Intrigued as to what caused the
problem, I checked for high resistance
between the contacts on the flex cable
but couldn’t find any problems. So
what happened? I can only speculate
that Betty used detergent and water
to wipe the front panel and some had
penetrated around the edge and crept
inside by capillary action. After that,
depending on the temperature and
humidity, this would intermittently
activate some of the switches, causing
the oven to start cooking.
A crook Akai
Long, long ago (even before Star
Wars), Akai Japan used to make
up-market reel-to-reel tape recorders,
then moved into VCRs and TV receiv
ers. They became very big and other
factories in Korea (Samsung) started
making TV sets for them, after which
they bought sets made in China. Most
of these were for the small-screen
budget market and Akai felt that
there was a gap they could fill by also
supplying upmarket large-screen TV
receivers.
Akai turned to Europe to produce
these and they were made by ITT
(also Nokia/Salora/Schaub Lorens/
NAD/Dual/Luxor, etc). Only a dozen
of these sets were sold in Australia
and these were early digital types (the
term “digital” is used very loosely in
TV technology and is mostly confined
to the tuning and control end of the
set – the scanning and audio is essen
tially analog. Most use the Philips I2C
bus system).
The problem is that when I encoun
ter these sets, I am intimidated by
the often unrecognisable – so called
– interna
tional symbols, the sheer
number of features and the need to
figure out how to use them before
the function times out. Often, I wish
that they would print an instruction
booklet for the instruction book – in
English!
Anyway, there I was behind Mr
Smithfield’s Akai CT2869AUS TV
set, grateful that this was only a ba
sic “poverty-pack” model. The fault
ticket said succinctly that the set was
dead which was partially true – there
was no sound or picture, just a ghastly
expectorant sort of noise from the
rear, as though the horizontal output
transformer was dead or in the pro
cess of dying. Connecting the CRO to
the collector of the horizontal output
transistor (T501) revealed significant
ringing in the horizontal output trans
former – that is before T501 decided
to cark it, right in front of me.
This was a not a good start.
Convinced that the horizontal out
put transformer was the main fault
I ordered a new one, only to find it
was no longer available. After a lot of
searching, I found that an HR6160 or
EHT3790 was probably an equivalent
and ordered one. When it arrived, I
duly slipped it in with supreme con
fidence, along with a new horizontal
output transistor, fully expecting that
that would be the end of the matter.
Well, I was wrong! – it made no
Central Coast Internet
• Full Service Dial Up Accounts.
• Web Hosting
• Server Hosting Services
• E-mail and WAP solutions for all business sizes
• Domain Registration and Hosting Services
• Network consulting service on info<at>cci.net.au
For connection details to your local internet provider contact
Andrew and also receive 20% off our vast range of TrainingOn-Line services.
Phone: (02) 4389 8755 Fax: (02) 4389 8388 e-mail info<at>cci.net.au
December 2000 63
Serviceman’s Log – continued
difference at all and the set was still
dead and buzzing.
I subsequently spent an lot of time
checking the tuning capacitors around
the collector of T501 and the deflec
tion yoke, to see if any had changed
in value. After all, it takes a lot to
destroy a horizontal output transistor
which is rated at 1500V and 5A. The
horizontal pulses are normally 1200V
but if a capacitor changes in value
(either going lower or open circuit),
these pulses can go a lot higher and
exceed the collector-emitter rating of
the transistor, destroying it instantly.
Alternatively, if there is a short
circuit and the current exceeds 5A,
the transistor gets very hot and fails.
However, the switchmode power
supply normally senses the excess
current drain and will reduce its out
put – which was what was happening
here. In fact, the 155V rail was down
by about one third.
After some hunting about, I found
that D573, a 33V zener diode, was
short circuit. This zener diode is
in the collector circuit of the east/
64 Silicon Chip
west output transistor (T573) but not
shown on the diagram.
Another component not shown
on the circuit diagram was C516, a
470pF 1.6kV blue capacitor, which
appeared to be somewhat worse for
wear. Unfortunately, replacing these
two components had no significant
effect on the symptoms. However, the
situation improved when I removed
the deflection yoke and I subsequently
wasted a lot of time substituting the
yoke from another set only to find it
made no difference.
In the end, I turned my attention to
the power supply. This really hasn’t
changed all that much in 25 years and
is not all that dissimilar to that used
by Sunbeam Graetz TV sets in 1975!
The switchmode power supply is
based on a TEA2164/G control IC
(IC701) and chopper transistor T701.
Among other things, the output from
the transformer supplies the hori
zontal output transistor (T501). This
means that if anything happens to the
power supply, it is likely to have some
affect on the horizontal output stage.
With this in mind, I decided to
replace all the electrolyt
ics in the
switchmode supply, from C700 to
C734 (about 10 capacitors in all; the
others in the sequence are elsewhere
in the circuit). None of the electro
lytics on the primary side made any
difference but when I replaced C732
(1000µF) on the 31V rail, the set was
fixed – well nearly!
Now you could have knocked me
down with a feather at this point!
Why should ripple on the 31V rail
be so significant, especially as all
this rail seems to feed are the audio
output ICs?
I wasn’t quite out of the woods yet,
as the set still showed a picture that
was distorted with what looked like
hum. Hot on the trail now, I continued
replacing the electros and eventually
found that C722 (470µF) on the input
to the 5V regulator (IC721) and C522
on the output of the 12V regulator
(IC521) were the main culprits.
Finally, I set the 155V rail exactly
with R612, making sure there was no
picture (ie, minimum contrast and
brightness) during this procedure. I
also touched up a few potential faulty
joints before composing a suitable bill
SC
for Mr Smithfield.
Order Form/Tax Invoice
Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd
ABN 49 003 205 490
PRICE GUIDE- Subscriptions
YOUR DETAILS
(all subscription prices INCLUDE P&P and GST)
Your Name________________________________________________________
(PLEASE PRINT)
Organisation (if applicable)___________________________________________
Please state month to start.
Australia: 1 yr ....................$A69.50
1 yr + binder .....................$A83
NZ (air): 1 yr .....................$A77
Overseas (air): 1 yr ...........$A125
Address__________________________________________________________
PRICE GUIDE- Other products
(all prices INCLUDE GST)
_________________________________________________________________
Postcode_____________ Daytime Phone No. (
)_____________________
Email address (if applicable) ___________________________________________
Method of Payment:
Cheque/Money Order Bankcard Visa Card Master Card
Card No.
Card expiry date
Signature_____________________________
2 yrs .....................$A135
2 yrs + 2 binders....$A159
2 yrs .....................$A145
2 yrs .....................$A250
*BACK ISSUES in stock: 10% discount for 10 or more issues.
Australia: $A7.70 ea (including p&p by return mail)
Overseas: $A10 ea (inc p&p by air).
*BINDERS: BUY 5 or more and get them postage free.
(Available in Aust. only.) ..........................$A12.95 ea (+$5.50p&p).
*SOFTWARE: $7.70 per item (project) plus $3.30 p&p per
order within Australia, $5.50 p&p per order elsewhere.
(Most software is available free on www.siliconchip.com.au).
*ZOOM EFI TECH SPECIAL
$A8.95 inc p&p Aust; $11.95 inc p&p elsewhere.
*COMPUTER OMNIBUS: $A12.50 inc p&p Australia; NZ/Asia/
Pacific $A15.95 inc p&p (air); elsewhere $18.95 inc p&p (air).
*ELECTRONICS TESTBENCH: Aust. $A13.20; NZ/Asia/Pacific
$A15.95 inc p&p (air); Elsewhere $18.95. (All prices incl. p&p).
*SILICON CHIP/JAYCAR WALLCHART:
Unfolded (in mailing tube): $A9.95 including p&p (Australia
only) – unfolded version not available elsewhere.
Folded: $A5.95 inc p&p within Australia; elsewhere $A10 inc p&p.
*BOOKSHOP TITLES: Please refer to current issue of SILICON
CHIP for currently available titles and prices as these may vary
from month to month.
SUBSCRIBERS QUALIFY FOR 10% DISCOUNT ON ALL SILICON CHIP PRODUCTS AND SERVICES*
*except subscriptions/renewals and Internet access
Item
Price
Qty Item Description
P&P if
extra
Total
Price
Spec
i
SUB al Offer
SCR
IBE
&
COM
PUTE GET
R OM
FO
N
Aust R FREE! IBUS
ralia
Only*
Total $A
TO PLACE
YOUR
ORDER
Phone (02) 9979 5644
9am-5pm Mon-Fri
Please have your credit
card details ready
OR
Fax this form to
(02) 9979 6503
with your credit card details
24 hours 7 days a week
OR
Mail this form, with your
cheque/money order, to:
Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd,
PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW,
MARCH 2001 65
Australia
2097
* Special offer applies while stocks last.
12-00
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au
Look Mum, no hands (or digits!)…
dahdah dahdahdah di’dahdit di’di’dit
dahdi’dahdit di’dahdi’dit dahdahdah
Here is a novel clock that doesn’t have a readout.
It’s a talking clock, but instead of telling you the
time in words it sounds the time in Morse code.
A
maze your friends by being
able to tell the time just by
listening to some dots and
dashes. If you are an amateur radio
operator, it is sure to make a great
addition to your shack.
There have been hundreds of clock
projects over the years but to my
knowledge there has never been one
like this. The clock features hourly
chime, one second internal resolution
with an announcement resolution
of one minute, and you can also
select 12 or 24 hour time and
set the speed of the Morse!
As with a lot of
projects that have
appeared in SIL
ICON CHIP this
clock uses a mi
crocontroller –
in this case a PIC
chip – to do all
the work. There
are very good rea
sons for this; PICs
are amazingly ver
satile and they
turn what would
have once been a
complex project into a very
simple one. Of course, the fact that
we are not worrying about driving a
LED or LCD display makes it even
easier, with the output device being
a small piezo buzzer.
Using Morse code also makes the
project simpler, just like a Morse code
radio transmitter is a lot less compli
cated than a voice transmitter. With
Morse code we just have two states
to worry about; either the tone is on
and we can hear it, or it is off and
we can’t hear it. Now if you haven’t
68 Silicon Chip
learnt Morse code yet either through
your work or as a hobby, don’t worry.
To be able to tell the time with this
clock only requires a rudimentary
knowledge of the code. Indeed to
get you started there is a slow Morse
setting so that you can get in some
practice before you move onto the
fast Morse setting.
The project is constructed on a
small PC board and housed in a plas
tic box. Power is normally supplied
from a 9V DC plugpack, however the
box incorporates a battery backup in
case of power failure.
The Morse clock has only two
buttons, TIME and SET. The TIME
button is used to announce the time
and also step through the functions
in program mode. The SET button
is only activated in program mode
and is used to select the options for
by Leon Williams
VK2DOB
each of the functions. How to set the
time and program the functions is
described later on.
Circuit description
The full circuit is shown in Fig.1.
As you can see there is not a lot to it,
with the PIC chip (IC1) doing almost
all the work. The PIC chip used here
is a 16F84 and is very commonly
used. Its major advantage is that it
can be programmed with a cheap
and simple programmer and can be
re-programmed over and over. So if
you make a mistake with the pro
gram (it’s an unwritten
rule that
programs
n e v e r
work first
time), you
can simply
rewrite the
chip with
out having
to throw
it away
or erase
it with UV
light.
Packed inside
the PIC (amongst
other things) is a
general purpose timer,
13 I/O pins that can be
individually configured as outputs
or inputs and 1K of flash ROM and
68 bytes of RAM.
Pins 15 and 16 of IC1 are the oscil
lator pins, connected to a 3.2768MHz
crystal and two 22pF capacitors. The
crystal frequency is divided by four
inside the PIC to give an instruction
clock of 819.2kHz. This is further di
dit
dahdi’dahdit dahdi’dah*
*(MORSE CLOCK)
vided by 64 in a pre-scaler and this is
applied to the clock input of Timer 0.
Timer 0 counts from 255 down to zero,
repeating at a rate of 50Hz. The PIC is
interrupted each time Timer 0 reaches
zero and the software counts these
pulses and when 50 are counted,
one second has elapsed. The second
count is in turn used to increment the
minutes and hours counters.
Pin 4 is the reset pin and is tied
to +5V by a 10kΩ resistor. The PIC
has a built in intelligent reset circuit
and this should prove to be adequate
in this application. However, if the
power supply is disconnected, allow
enough time for the bypass capacitors
to discharge before reconnecting the
power, otherwise the reset may not
work properly.
The TIME button is connected to
Pin 7 which is configured as an input
to Port B and has an internal pull
up resistor. When the button is not
pressed the PIC reads the pin as high;
when the button is pressed it is read
as low. The SET button is connected
to pin 8 and acts in the same way.
The software performs a debounce
operation on the buttons. When a but
ton is first detected as being closed,
it waits for a short period and tests
the button again. If the button is still
closed, the program accepts this as a
valid press otherwise it treats it as a
spurious input and ignores it.
The remainder of the Port B pins
are configured as outputs and so do
not need to be tied to a rail.
The Port A pins are all configured
as outputs with pin 1 used to activate
the piezo buzzer. When the output is
high (+5V) the buzzer is on and when
the output is low (0V) the buzzer is
turned off. The timing of the dots,
dashes, character and word spacing
are all multiples of the interrupt
period (20ms). The software simply
counts the number of interrupt peri
ods and holds the output pin high or
low for the prescribed period.
The clock is powered from a nomi
nal 9V DC supply, such as a plugpack.
Diode D1 provides protection from
reverse polarity and the 100µF capaci
tor helps reduce power supply ripple.
Regulator REG1 is a 78L05 type and
its output voltage is raised to around
5.5V by D2, with the 0.1µF capacitor
guarding against instability. Diode
D3 drops this voltage back to 5V to
We think old Sam Morse
would have approved . . .
supply IC1 at pin 14 and also stops
the battery current from flowing back
into REG1.
When the power supply is re
moved, power for IC1 is supplied by
a back up battery supply comprised
of 3 AA cells. When normal power is
applied from the plug pack, diode D4
is reversed biased and so no current
is drawn from the batteries. Howev
er, when the main plugpack supply
is not available, diode D4 conducts
because its anode is more positive
than its cathode and current for IC1
is supplied by the batteries.
The PIC chip draws around 1mA
when in idle condition and about
Fig.1: the circuit diagram is just a power supply and a PIC microcontroller.
December 2000 69
Parts List: Morse Clock
1 PC board, code 06112001, 72
x 56mm
1 plastic case, 130mm x 67mm
x 44mm
1 panel mount DC connector to
suit plugpack
4 PC board stakes
1 3.2768MHz crystal (XTAL1)
1 piezo buzzer (Jaycar AB-3459)
2 PC-mount push button
switches (S1,S2)
1 18-pin IC socket
8 No. 6 x 12mm self tapping
screws
4 32mm plastic spacers (see
text)
1 3 AA cell battery holder
4 self adhesive rubber feet
Small piece of tinned copper
wire
Light duty hook-up wire
Semiconductors
1 PIC 16F84-04P (IC1)
(programmed with
MORSECLK.HEX)
1 78L05 5V positive voltage
regulator (REG1)
4 1N4004 power diode (D1-D4)
Capacitors
1 100µF 25VW PC electrolytic
1 10µF 16VW PC electrolytic
2 0.1µF MKT polyester
2 22pF ceramic
Resistors (0.5W, 1%)
1 10kΩ
10mA when the buzzer is operating.
While the circuit could be re-arranged
to operate solely from 4 AA cells, with
the regulator components removed,
the expected operating time from the
batteries alone would only be about
2-3 months. The batteries are only
included to prevent the time settings
from being lost when the unit is re
located or when there is a blackout.
If you choose not to use the backup
batteries and the plugpack power is
lost the time will need to be reset.
Disassembled view of the Morse Clock. The 3-AA-cell battery holder is a little
unusual – if you can’t find one, use a 4-cell holder with a dummy battery.
mounting the smaller, passive com
ponents (ie resistors and any links)
progressing through to the larger
ones, then the active components
(semiconductors) and any on-board
hardware (IC sockets, etc). Leave the
installation of the PIC chip until the
construction and initial testing is
complete.
Refer to the component overlay
to ensure all components go in their
correct spots and that any polarised
components are installed correctly.
Note that the two electrolytic capac
itors need to be laid on their sides to
avoid fouling the lid. The crystal is
also laid on its side and held down
with a piece of tinned wire soldered
to the pads underneath the board.
When installing the buzzer, make
sure it is mounted flat against the
PC board so that the when the lid is
in place, the pushbuttons protrude
sufficiently out of the lid. The buzzer
positive lead is the longer one and
Construction
Construction of this project is
straightforward. Start by checking
the PC board for faults, looking for
bridges across tracks and open cir
cuit tracks. While there is no “right”
or “wrong” sequence to installing
the components, we usually start by
70 Silicon Chip
Fig.2: the PC board
component overlay.
Note that the two
electroyltic capacitors
and the crystal must
be laid over to fit
under the case lid.
connects to pin 1 of the PIC.
Once the PC board is completed,
it’s time to mark and drill the holes
in the case. The PC board is mount
ed on four pillars made from 32mm
plastic spacers. These are screwed
to the bottom of the case and the PC
board screws to their top, just far
enough down from the lid to allow
the push-buttons to poke through.
Unfortunately the 32mm spacers are
just too long for this so we have to cut
them down a little.
First, place the PC board inside
the box on the right side, butting up
against the integral pillars. Align
the PC board so the buttons and the
buzzer are placed on the centre line
of the base. Mark the spots for the
mounting holes with a pencil and
drill clearance holes for the self-tap
ping screws. Drill a suitable hole for
the DC connector on the rear side.
Mount the DC connector and solder
two wires to the socket long enough
to easily reach the PC board
power pins.
Take the four 32 mm spac
ers and carefully cut each of
them to a length of 28 mm
with a fine toothed hack saw.
The plastic spacers used in
the prototype have holes in
each end that allow a No.
6 self-tapping screw to be
inserted. Screw the four pil
lars to the inside of the case
bottom and then place the PC
board on top of the spacers
and screw into place with the
four remaining self-tapping
screws.
You will also need to drill
three holes on the centre line
of the lid for the switches
This same-size view shows that all fits in quite nicely into a standard 130 x 67 x 44mm
and the buzzer. The switch
Jiffy box. The PC board mounts on 28mm spacers to place the push-button switches at
exactly the right height when the box lid is screwed on.
es have a round body and
the hole needs to be just big
the batteries and install the PIC chip
for hourly chime turned off. Pressing
enough to allow the switches
into the socket. Note the orientation the SET button toggles between the
to move freely. The hole for the buzzer
– pin 18 is closest to the crystal.
settings.
needs only to be equal to the hole in
Connect the plugpack supply and you
(3). Press the TIME button to access
the top of the buzzer body to allow the
should be greeted with the wonderful the 12/24 hour function. The number
sound of the buzzer to escape when
sound of slow Morse sounding the
1 is sounded to indicate 12 hour time
the lid is in place.
and number 2 for 24 hour time. Press
Solder the DC connector wires to letters OK. Press the TIME button
and you should hear the time being ing the SET button toggles between
the PC board supply pins and the
the settings.
battery holder wires to the battery announced. Don’t worry about what it
(4). Press the TIME button to access
pins, ensuring that the positive and says at this stage, because we haven’t
the AM/PM function. AM is sounded
negative leads go to the correct posi set the time yet.
Install the batteries again and then for AM and PM for PM setting. Press
tions. The battery holder fits neatly in
remove the plugpack. Press the TIME ing the SET button toggles between
the gap left in the lefthand side of the
button and verify that the clock is the two settings
case. You could add a small piece of
(5). Press the TIME button to ac
foam as a packer to stop the battery still working with only the backup
batteries. You will probably notice cess the fast/slow Morse function. F
holder moving if you wish.
that the output from the buzzer is
is sounded for fast Morse and S for
To prevent the mounting screws
lower in level. This is normal and as the slow Morse setting. Once again
scratching your desk and to make the
clock less likely to slip around, attach stated earlier, the back up batteries the SET button toggles between the
four self adhesive feet to the bottom are really only included to keep the two settings.
clock going if the main power is lost
(6). Press the TIME button to access
of the case.
for a short period.
the Hour function where H is soundTesting
Install the lid, reconnect the plug ed. Press the SET button and a beep
Once construction is complete, it pack and your Morse clock is now will be heard. Each beep represents an
increment of one hour, starting from
is time to apply power to the circuit. finished.
zero. In this mode the SET button
Leave out the batteries at this stage
Setting the time
automatically repeats. If you do not
and connect the plugpack to the DC
Setting the time with the Morse
press the SET button the hour setting
socket. Using your multimeter, meas
is unchanged. If the hours are set to
ure the voltage at the output of REG1. clock is very simple, because there
are only two buttons to press. Follow an illegal number, that is over 12 or
You should read about 5.5V, and also
you should read about 5V at pin 14 of the steps below to set the time and over 23, they are reset to zero and
start again.
the IC socket. If not, remove the power program the functions:
(1). Press the TIME and SET but
7. Press the TIME button to access
source and check your wiring again
the Minute function where M is
and the installation of the polarised tons together. The letters PGM are
announced in Morse code, indicating
sounded. Press the SET button and
components.
you are in program mode.
a beep will be heard. Each beep rep
Assuming this is correct, remove
(2). Press the TIME button to access resent an increment of one Minute,
the plugpack supply and install the
batteries. Measure the voltage at pin the hourly chime function. The cur starting from zero. In this mode, the
rently set option will be announced, SET button automatically repeats. If
14 of the IC socket again and this time
it should be about 4V. If so, remove either ON for hourly chime or OFF you do not press the SET button the
December 2000 71
Learning Morse Code
While Morse code is no longer used in most commercial
activities, some knowledge of Morse is required, at least for
the next year or two, to gain a full privelege amateur radio
licence. (The requirements have recently been changed
to allow those who pass the 5 words per minute (wpm)
Morse test to have access to all amateur bands. In the
past, 10 wpm was the standard).
So why learn Morse code? It’s still a viable means of
communication; it’s still used by the armed services (eg,
where ships are in line-of-sight to each other and radio
communication might be eavesdropped, “Aldus” lamps
are still used which flash Morse messages via light). But
perhaps more to the point, if you listen in to the amateur
radio bands (particularly the HF bands) you’ll hear amateur operators communicating with each other solely in
Morse – for the shear pleasure of it.
If you want to learn Morse code, listening in to the amateur bands is one of the best ways to go. Not one of the
20, 30 or 50 wpm speedhogs but slow Morse, often used
by Novice operators.
Or you could obtain one of the many tapes available
which teach Morse code. And there are even many
computer programs around which generate Morse from
either a keyboard or from ASCII text and sound it via the
computer speaker.
The point is that Morse is an aural language, not visual.
And while we’ve printed the Morse alphabet and numbers
below, you will notice we haven’t shown it below )as dots
and dashes – it is shown as dits and dahs – and should
always be spoken that way. So the letter “A” is not dot
dash, it is di’dah. “F” is di’di’dahdit, not dot dot dash dot.
Note that if a "dit" is followed by another element (either
dit or dah) we don’t pronounce the “t” in that dit – the T
and the following D become effectively the same sound.
The other main thing to remember when learning Morse
is NEVER to start trying to send letters before you have
thoroughly learnt to receive the whole alphabet. It’s very
tempting to grab a Morse key or even a push-button switch,
connect it to an oscillator and start bashing away. But your
timing will almost certainly suffer if you haven’t got a good
knowledge of Morse from reliable sources - others will find
your Morse difficult, if not impossible, to decipher.
Some letters are recognised very easily – if only because they form parts of common words or phrases. Who
doesn’t know SOS, for example? Or “V” for victory (also
known as the start of Beethoven’s fifth symphony – didididah). Other letters are easy because, well, they ARE
easy: A (didah), E (dit) H (didididit) I (didit), M (dahdah),
N (dahdit), O (dahdahdah) and T (dah). Even R (didahdit)
and K (dahdidah) aren’t too difficult.
There are other letters which are recognised because
they are part of commonly heard expressions – especially
on radio. “CQ”, or a general call to all stations, is one example. “HI” is another. And the universal radio greeting,
“73”, makes a seven and a three easier.
It’s when you start getting into some of the more obscure three-sound and four-sound combinations that
Morse gets a little tougher – and some letters, such as B
(dahdididit), C (dahdidahdit), F (dididahdit) G (dahdahdit),
J (didahdahdah), L (didahdidit), P (didahdahdit) Q (dahdahdidah) W (didahdah) X (dahdididdah), Y (dahdidahdah)
and Z (dahdahdidit) are regarded as the most difficult to
recognise quickly. So you might have to put a lot more
effort into these.
Some people find learning “opposites” helps them: eg,
R and K. Others find putting letters into similar sets works
– eg A, U, V. Others simply get stuck in and learn the lot!
Numbers are easy to remember but harder to recognise. That’s because numbers follow a pattern – one is
didahdahdahdah, two is dididahdahdah and so on, but
they have five-sound combinations. So when you start to
hear a “1”, it could be an “A”, then a “W”, then a “J” then
finally it becomes a “1”. Fortunately, most of the time when
numbers are sent you’re probably expecting to hear a
number, rather than a letter, so you’re more attuned to it.
OK, enough of the preamble. Here is the full Morse
code, including some punctuation. Gee, we hadn’t even
mentioned trying to learn punctuation, had we?
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
J
di’dah
dahdi’di’dit
dahdi’dahdit
dahdi’dit
dit
di’di’dahdit
dahdahdit
di’di’di’dit
di’dit
di’dahdahdah
N
O
P
Q
R
S
T
U
V
W
dahdit
dahdahdah
di’dahdahdit
dahdahdi’dah
di’dahdit
di’di’dit
dah
di’di’dah
di’di’di’dah
di’dahdah
K
L
M
dahdi’dah
di’dahdi’dit
dahdah
X
Y
Z
dahdi’di’dah
dahdi’dahdah
dahdahdi’dit
72 Silicon Chip
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
0
di’dahdahdahdah
di’di’dahdahdah
di’di’di’dahdah
di’di’di’di’dah
di’di’di’di’dit
dahdi’di’di’dit
dahdahdi’di’dit
dahdahdahdi’dit
dahdahdahdahdit
dahdahdahdahdah
di'dahdi'dahdi'dah
dahdahdi'di'dahdah
error di’di’di’di’di’di’di’dit
.
,
Fig.3 (left): you can
photocopy and glue the
front panel artwork to
the lid of your Morse
Clock. It also makes a
great drilling template.
Fig.5 (right) is the samesize PC board pattern.
SILICON
CHIP
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
J
K
L
M
N
O
P
Q
R
S
T
U
V
W
X
Y
Z
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
0
minute setting is unchanged. If the
minutes are set to an illegal number,
that is over 59, they are reset to zero
and start again. Each time a minute
is incremented the internal seconds
counter is reset to zero. In this way
you can accurately set the time by
using a reference clock with a
second hand. Increment the min
utes up to 1 less than the amount
required, and select the desired
minute at the moment the second
hand reaches 12 on the reference
clock.
Obviously, setting the time will
be easier if you select a time just
after an hour has passed.
8. Pressing the TIME button
again will return you to the hourly
chime function. Pressing both but
tons at any stage during program
mode will store the settings, exit
from program mode, sound the
letters OK and return to normal
mode.
Software
For those who program their own
PICs, there are two files available for
downloading from the SILICON CHIP
website.
The files are MORSECLK.ASM and
MORSECLK.HEX, both zipped into a
single file, morseclk.zip. While you
do not need the ASM file to program
the PIC, it will be of interest to those
who dabble in programming. It is
always interesting to see how some
body else did it and maybe pick up
a trick or two.
The program runs in a small main
loop that monitors the buttons for a
press and also checks if the hour is
up to chime the time. Each 20ms, an
internal interrupt occurs that forces
the PIC to update the time registers
in the interrupt routine. The rest of
the code looks after the sounding of
the dots and dashes and setting the
various functions.
Have fun and hopefully your clock
will prove both as well as being a
novelty.
While Morse code may be some
what outdated in the modern tele
communications world, it still holds
a certain fascination and throughout
its history has served us well in both
SC
peace and war.
With one of these . . .
...you could
have one of
these in about
1 HOUR!
Introducing The Quick Circuit 5000
If you want fast, no-fuss PC-board prototypes, take a look at the Quick Circuit
5000. This PC-controlled milling machine reads the standard files generated by
popular PC design packages and mills away the copper on the board to produce the
tracks. It then drills the holes and cuts out the finished product. You can go from
design to finished product in about one hour – without using any messy chemicals.
Check out the November 2000 issue of SILICON CHIP for a full review
Phone SATCAM on (02) 9807
SC 7081 or email satcam<at>ozemail.com.au
December 2000 73
Fun with comparators
This month, we’ll have a play with comparators. Most people
regard comparators as pretty basic and boring devices but
they should be regarded as important building blocks. You can
do all sorts of functions apart from comparators. Examples
are Schmitt triggers, oscillators, timers, pulse generators,
AND and OR gates and even zero voltage crossing detectors.
By LEO SIMPSON
We will have a play with a “bog
standard” device, the LM393 dual
comparator but remember that virtu
ally everything we do will be applica
ble to other comparators such as the
equally “bog standard” LM339 quad
comparator or other higher perfor
mance comparators.
OK. So what is a comparator? It’s
74 Silicon Chip
very similar to an op amp. It has a
differential input stage, with noninverting (+) and inverting (-) inputs.
The two inputs are used to “compare”
two signals or two voltages and then
the output indicates whether one
input is higher (or lower) than the
other. Typically, one input will be
tied to a reference (REF) voltage while
the other input is fed with the signal
or voltage to be monitored. Let’s do
a typical setup with the LM393, as
shown in Fig.1.
BELOW: this photo features all the
parts shown in Fig.1 and Fig.2, except
for the 47µF capacitor. One of the
potentiometers is not used.
Fig.1: this is a basic circuit for a non-inverting comparator.
To turn it into an inverting comparator, swap the inputs,
pins 5 & 6. Pins 2 & 3 on the unused comparator should be
tied high. The 47µF is not used initially.
Because we are wiring this up on
a Protoboard and want to make it as
straightforward as possible, I’ve hook
ed up the second comparator in the
LM393 dual package; ie, involving
pins 5, 6 & 7. But remember that ex
actly the same circuit can be hooked
up with the first comparator, or any
number of variations on the theme.
Since we’re not using the first com
parator, its inputs should be tied high
(+12V) or low (0V). This is done to
prevent it from producing any spuri
ous oscillations which it could do if
its inputs were left to “float”.
Pin 6, the inverting input, is con
nected to the junction of two 10kΩ
resistors connected across the 12V
supply. The voltage at the junction
will be half the supply or +6V (nom
inal) and since this voltage is fixed,
we regard this as the REF (reference)
input. Pin 5, the non-inverting input,
is connected to a variable voltage
obtained from the 50kΩ pot (VR1)
which is connected in series across
the 12V supply. By rotating pot VR1,
we can vary the voltage fed to pin 5
from +12V down to about +2V.
Why not hook up just the 50kΩ pot
and the 10kΩ resistor across the 12V
supply to begin with and check with
your multimeter to see if this voltage
range can be obtained? Check also that
you get 6V (or half the DC plugpack
supply voltage) at the junction of the
two 10kΩ resistors. Now hook up the
rest of the components on the circuit
of Fig.1, as shown in the photo and
in the Protoboard wiring diagram of
Fig.2.
So that we can see what the compar
ator does in response to the variable
signal conditions, I have hooked up
a LED (light emitting diode) in series
with a 1kΩ resistor, between the +12V
supply and the comparator’s output
at pin 7.
Now, if we set VR1 so that +12V is
fed into pin 5, the LED will not light.
If we then wind VR1 back the other
way, reducing the voltage to pin 5,
at some point the LED will light. If
we then measure the voltage at pin
5 we should find that it is just below
the voltage at pin 6. In our case, on
the afternoon I was writing this, the
voltage on pin 6 was +6.18V and as
I wound VR1 to the point where the
LED came on fully, pin 5 was +5.93V
and pin 6 was +5.6V; ie, a smidgin
below pin 5.
This demonstrates a number of
interesting points. The first question
might be, “Why did the voltage at
pin 5 change at all?” but we’ll get to
that later.
No, the main point is that when pin
5, the inverting input, is pulled low,
the output at pin 7 also goes low. And
Fig.2: use this diagram to wire up the circuit of Fig.1. Winding
VR1 back and forth will turn the LED on and off.
December 2000 75
Fig.3: using the simple comparator results in poor
switching behaviour. The upper trace is the input
sinewave at 1kHz while the lower trace is the output
waveform.
when 7 goes low, the LED will light
because it is hooked up to +12V via
the 1kΩ resistor.
So what we have here is a non-in
verting comparator. We can summa
rise its operation by saying that when
the non-inverting input goes above
the inverting input, the output will
go high; when the non-inverting input
goes below the inverting input, the
output will go low.
Inverting comparator
Say we wanted to change the sense
of the comparator? Say, we wanted
the output to go high when the input
goes low – ie, below the reference
input? Easy. Just swap the reference
and signal inputs. Go ahead and do
it: swap the connections to pins 5 &
6. Now what happens? What happens
is that when pin 6 is above pin 5, the
LED is alight. Conversely, when pin 6
is low, the output at pin 7 is high and
so the LED is not alight. So that’s how
you make an inverting comparator.
The thing is, you can tell what
the comparator will do just by look
ing at which input is inverting and
which is non-inverting. If we vary
the non-inverting input, the output
will essentially follow the input; ie,
when it goes above the REF input, the
output will go high as well.
In other words, the output is the
same as the non-inverting input or to
put it another way, the output has not
been inverted (non-inverting, get it?).
Conversely, for an inverting com
parator, the output signal will be
76 Silicon Chip
Fig.4: this is the cleaner switching result when a 47µF
bypass capacitor is connected to pin 6. This stops the
voltage at pin 6 from varying while the switching action
is taking place.
inverted compared to the input.
We can use these basic compara
tor circuits in all sorts of ways. For
example, if we replaced VR1 with
a thermistor we could produce a
temperature-sensitive switch. Or the
potentiometer could be a throttle
switch in a car or any one of a number
of transducers. So comparators do an
important job in sensing all sorts of
circuit conditions and then switching
an output in response.
AC signals
What else can a comparator do? So
far we have only considered the situa
tion where a comparator is monitoring
static or slowly varying signals. What
about rapid signals? To demonstrate,
let’s feed an audio oscillator into the
comparator of Fig.1. We’ll feed the
signal in via a 0.1µF (100nF) capaci
tor to pin 5, set VR1 to give +6.5V at
pin 5 and see what happens. With no
signal from the oscillator, the LED is
off. We apply a 1kHz sinewave signal,
wind up the signal to about 400mV
and the LED lights, although not as
brightly as it was when we manually
varied VR1.
So what is happening? The scope
waveforms of Fig.3 show the results.
The upper trace is the input 1kHz
sinewave and the lower trace is the
voltage at pin 7 and the LED. Some
thing is wrong here because instead of
switching cleanly, the comparator is
obviously dilly-dallying on the output
transition between high and low.
Hmm, what if the reference voltage
at pin 6 was varying up and down
with the switching action? We saw
that this was actually happening on
the static signal test previously. OK.
So let’s hang a 47µF capacitor off pin
6 to the 0V rail. That will stop any
short term signal variations on pin 6
and should clean up the output signal.
The scope waveforms of Fig.4 show
the result and the output waveform
now switches much more cleanly. The
LED also runs a little brighter as well.
So in practice, we would not use
a simple voltage divider for the REF
voltage. We would use a well-filtered
voltage, prob
a bly derived from a
zener diode or a more precise voltage
source.
However, even with a well-filtered
REF source for one of the inputs, the
switching action of a comparator may
not be what we want. Say we were us
ing a thermistor to drive a comparator
in a temperature controller. If we had
the simple circuit of Fig.1 (together
with the 47µF capacitor at pin 5) it
would certainly work but it would
be far too sensitive and the circuit
would hunt back and forth (ie, switch
on and off) continuously with small
temperature variations. This would be
unsatisfactory if you were controlling
a heater or cooling unit.
Adding hysteresis
The answer is to change the points
at which the comparator switches
from low to high and then from high
back to low. To do this, we provide
positive feedback from the output to
Fig.5: to demonstrate hysteresis this inverting comparator
version of the circuit has a 22kΩ positive feedback resistor
connected between pins 5 & 7.
the non-verting input. By positive
feedback we mean applying some of
the output signal back to the input,
so that a portion of the output signal
adds to the input signal. This is the
opposite of negative feedback where
the portion of the signal fed back from
the output subtracts from the input.
The circuit of Fig.5 is similar to
Fig.1 but we have swapped the way
the inputs are connected and we have
added a 22kΩ resistor from pin 7 to
pin 5. This positive feedback resistor
shifts the switching threshold up and
down as the output switches high
and low.
To set up the circuit of Fig.5, dis
connect the oscillator, swap pins 5
& 6, pull out the 47µF capacitor and
then check that the circuit works
as before. As you wind VR1 back
and forth you will find that the LED
Subscribe &
Get this FREE!*
THAT’S RIGHT – buy a 1or 2-year subscription to
SILICON CHIP magazine
and we’ll mail you a
free copy of “Computer
Omnibus”. Includes articles on troubleshooting
your PC, installing and
setting up computer
networks, hard disk
drive upgrades, clean
installing Windows 98,
CPU upgrades, a basic
introduction to Linux
plus much more.
switches on over a very narrow range.
Pin 6 only needs to be raised or low
ered by a small amount near +6V to
turn the LED on or off.
Now connect the 22kΩ resistor
between pin 6 & 7. You will find that
you now have to wind VR1 over a
wider range to turn the LED on and
off. In fact, you will now find that you
have to vary VR1 so that it shifts pin
6 above +7V to turn the LED on and
below +5V to turn it off.
In fact, if you measure pin 5 as the
LED turns on and off, you will find
that it is moving up and down over
a 2V range as the output goes high
and low.
This is a fairly crude way of adding
hysteresis but it demonstrates the
principle.
You might also notice that the LED
does not fully turn off. This is not be
cause the comparator is not switching
correctly but is due to the current
flowing through the 22kΩ resistor.
This small current is enough to keep
the LED glowing feebly.
Well, that’s enough for this month.
Next month we’ll have a further play
with the LM393 and make it work in
SC
a few more circuits.
APOLOGY
ATTENTION KIT CONSTRUCTORS
Some K3130 Temperature Control Switch kits were
supplied with metal end panels, instead of the plastic
panels originally specified. Depending on how the kit was
assembled, this may compromise electrical safety.
Constructors are advised to disconnect the kit from mains
power and check the panels on their kit. If plastic panels
have been supplied, no further action is required. If metal
end panels have been supplied, customers should stop
using the kit and obtain replacement panels.
*Australia only. Offer valid only
while stocks last.
Subscribe now by using the handy order form in this
issue or call (02) 9979 5644, 8.30-5.30 Mon-Fri with
your credit card details.
To obtain replacement panels contact:
Dick Smith Electronic Kit Department
"K-3130 End Panels"
PO Box 321 North Ryde NSW 2113
or Phone: 1800 618 459
or e-mail: kits<at>dse.com.au
Dick Smith apologises for any inconvenience caused
December 2000 77
Vintage Radio Feature
While it was quite grubby, this AWA 467MA set
was a good candidate for restoration as its cabinet
was sound and it had all three original knobs.
The AWA 467MA
. . . an ideal
first
restoration
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
As the saying goes, we all have to start somewhere,
and so it is with restoring vintage radios. But the
restoration of a 1930s 7-valve, triple-wave, mainspowered, wooden console receiver with a tuning
indicator and a complex dial cord arrangement
would be an ideal project to attempt if you wanted
to become disillusioned.
78 Silicon Chip
S
ELECTING A SIMPLER and
more common receiver as the
first project is much more likely
to be a success, even if a small amount
of help is needed in some areas. Your
first restoration will be remembered
long after the tenth and it is much
better to remember it as a success
rather than a costly failure.
A friend expressed interest in an
AWA plastic-cased mantle set. It was
a model 467MA which is similar to
the 449MA except it has a loopstick
antenna. It was like his parents’ radio,
hence the interest. While I was in
the process of restoration, it struck
me that here was an ideal set for a
beginner in vintage radio to restore.
There is nothing special about this
receiver which is a relatively simple
broadcast band 4-valve superhet. Sets
of this type were produced in the tens
of thousands, so it’s relatively easy to
find a suitable receiver for your first
restoration. Circuits and bits and piec
es are not too hard to find and help
with the project is often available from
experienced restorers.
Perhaps your long-term interest
in vintage radio will not be 4-valve
plastic-cased receivers. If they aren’t
of interest, does it matter if your res
toration isn’t perfect? The value of the
set is probably only a few dollars and
you will have had some practice for
your next radio and a lot of fun into
the bargain.
There are a few important points
that the first time re
storer should
consider before obtaining a set such
as this to practice on:
(1) The plastic cabinet should be in
good condition, with no chunks out
of it, or cracks (if possible), not dis
coloured, no distortions due to valve
heat or other reasons, and complete
with all knobs. It doesn’t matter if the
cabinet and knobs are dirty, as they
can be cleaned. Check the knobs; some
may be broken, loose or extremely
tight on the shaft.
(2) Look inside the cabinet. It may
be dusty and have slight corrosion or
discoloration of the chassis but that
is OK. Howev
er, sets from marine
environments can be bad choices, as
are sets that have had water through
them. They will have major corrosion
on the chassis, in the pots and tuning
gang and most of the components are
liable to be leaky.
The smell of mice or the smell of
something such as a transformer that
has been too hot is enough reason for
you to pass up the set for something
more acceptable.
(3) Are the valves all there? It is not
absolutely essential that they are but
if they are, it indicates that the set
has probably not been fiddled with.
Miniature valves are reasonably easy
to obtain. However, you will need
to know what valves are used in the
set and which sockets to plug them
into. Often there is a sticker in the
set showing which valve goes where.
Sometimes, would-be repairers
change the valves around and the set
will definitely not work then – and
the valves may be damaged.
(4) The radio should be a 240V AC
Australian unit, certainly not AC/DC
which can be dangerous. Look for a
power transformer in the set.
(5) Sources for such sets are second
hand dealers, relatives and garage
sales, etc. If you ask “does the set
work” and are told “yes”, never as
sume that the set does work properly,
if at all. If the owner wants to demon
strate it, get them to do this before you
buy. If it starts to smoke, leave it. If
it sounds distorted it could be OK,
providing it is switched off pronto – if
you really want that set (this can be
Fig.1 (below): no, this is not the circuit
of the AWA 467MA but the 449MA
which is very similar. The 6BV7 is
a double-diode pentode, with the
pentode used in the audio stage. Its
cathode uses “back bias” with about
4V being developed across the
negative supply return resistor, R14.
December 2000 79
This was the under-chassis view before restoration. All the black “moulded mud” paper capacitors were
replaced with ceramic and polyester capacitors.
a bargaining point too). Don’t expect
the dial lamps to work.
(6) The set you select should not
be a midget, as parts are crowded
in them, making access for the new
recruit difficult.
(7) A “hand-span” dial on the re
ceiver will mean that no dial cord
stringing will be required. This is
not essential but it does make the
first job simpler. The set described
in this article has a relatively simple
dial-cord drive.
(9) The set should be a broadcast
band only set, with a maximum of
three or four controls.
(10) Once you’ve obtained a suit
able receiver, it is desirable to get
as much servicing data as possible,
before you start work on it. This is
available from the Historical Radio
Society of Australia or the New Zea
land Vintage Radio Society.
Tools and instruments
You will need a collection of basic
tools and instruments for servicing
and restoring receivers, although
most electronic enthusiasts would
already have these. You will need a
soldering iron and solder and a digital
multimeter (DMM) with 10MΩ input
impedance. Don’t go for the cheapest
of DMMs as you really do get what
80 Silicon Chip
you pay for. An analog multimeter
with a sensitivity of at least 20kΩ/V
is OK for most measurements too,
although in high impedance circuits
such as the AGC system its readings
will be erroneous.
You will need a small collection of
hand tools, including small-to-large
flat blade and Phillips head screw
drivers, long nosed pliers, side cutters
and small adjustable spanners.
This is a basic list and these items
will usually be all that you will
require to get a receiver going, but
not to its peak. Additional tools,
instruments and bits and pieces will
be required as you gain experience.
Restoring the AWA 467MA
The description that follows is a
good procedure for re
storing vin
tage radio receivers. The methods
described in this article achieve a
reasonable end result with not too
much effort.
Time to start: I never turn on a radio
before I have dismantled it and made
a number of checks inside to ensure
it is safe; smoke signals from the set
may herald an expensive restoration.
So take the chassis out of the cabinet
and put the cabinet to one side.
I had a problem getting the knobs
off. They had been put on with some
sticky green gunk which had become
semi-solid. The knobs are a slide-fit
with a circlip providing pressure to
hold them on. I was able to put my
fingers under the edges of the knobs
and gently ease them up and off the
shafts.
Sometimes it isn’t possible to do
this and I may resort to using two
screwdrivers, one on either side of
the knob to gently ease it off the
shaft. Make sure that even pressure
is applied on both sides or the knob
may break – broken knobs are not easy
to replace.
Then it is time the carefully inspect
all the electronic works. The dial cord
was checked and found to be intact,
however the cord is often broken. If
it is broken, it may be evident how it
was strung, sometimes not. Get help
here as each set is different. If your
set has a “handspan” dial there is
no dial drive system, which makes
things easier.
Cleaning & lubrication
I dislike working on a dirty chassis,
so I cleaned all the top and bottom of
the chassis and the mounted compo
nents with a small paint brush. If you
have access to an air compressor you
can blow most of the dust and gunk
out but be careful around the tuning
gang; close the vanes before doing an
ything near it. Don’t blow compressed
air into the gang at close quarters.
It the chassis is really dirty, a
kitchen scouring pad (not steel wool)
soaked in household kerosene will
do a good job of getting the grime
off. If need be, cut the pad up into
strips to get into awkward places. The
kerosene tends to act as an anti-rust
treatment. Wipe everything clean
with a rag.
I then lubricate the pulleys and the
shafts of the various controls with
sewing machine oil. All of the con
trols must move freely. The figure-8
power cord fitted to most sets of this
era is often quite dirty. To clean the
cord I run a small screwdriver down
each groove in the cord to loosen the
gunk. I then clean the cord with a rag
soaked in methylated spirits.
Usually the power cord comes up
OK but if not, it is not expensive to
replace the power cord completely.
It is a good idea to check the power
plug at this stage too. It should not be
damaged. Older plugs which allow ac
cess to the live wires on the underside
should be replaced – those older plugs
are really quite dangerous.
I remove all the valves and clean
them. If they are miniatures (ie, all
glass construction), I clean them up
with soapy water, rubbing the muck
off with my fingers. Be careful not
to rub off the valve identification. I
rinse the valves under clean water
and allow them to dry.
Octal valves with Bakelite bases
must not be immersed in water; soapy
water residue in the valve bases is
likely to cause trouble. Hence, only
clean the glass top of octal valves
and then let them dry. They come up
looking like new.
Underneath the chassis
The next task is to see what things
are like under the chassis. I have made
up a stand to mount upturned radio
chassis on and this has been described
in a recent article. It does make ser
vicing a whole lot easier. With the set
mounted on the servicing jig, all the
components were carefully inspected.
The black “moulded mud” paper
capacitors were replaced with ceram
ic and polyester capacitors. It isn’t
always easy to just desolder compo
nents as they often have their leads
wound around and through terminal
points. If they can’t be desoldered
Sitting the receiver on a servicing jig makes it easier to inspect and service.
easily it will be necessary to cut them
out, unfortunately. As a newcom
er
it is much easier to replace all units
rather than try to test them.
An important tip – remove and re
place only one component at a time,
as it is very easy to forget which lead
goes where.
It is not my usual policy to replace
all paper capacitors, just those that
are in critical locations and leaky –
usually around half of them. Despite
the physical damage to several of the
capacitors in this radio, cracked ends
in particular, they generally had much
less leakage than normal as tested on
a high-voltage tester.
All replacement capacitors should
have the same values and voltage rat
ings as the originals, although I often
use 50V ceramic ca
pacitors in the
AGC circuit, at the volume control and
as cathode bypasses, as the voltage
across them is quite low. The lowest
voltage paper capacitors were 200V.
The wiring will probably be in plas
tic covered hook-up wire and should
be in good condition. I tested all the
resistors in the set and two were found
to have gone high in value and out of
tolerance.
In most cases, the resistors can
be tested in circuit. However, quite
often there are parallel paths with
other resistors which give erroneous
readings. In these cases it is necessary
to unsolder one of the leads from the
circuit and test across the resistor. It
is desirable to know the colour code
for resistors or have access to a resistor
colour code chart.
I checked the dial lamps and re
placed them. If they test OK but the
glass is blackened, replace them any
way as they won’t have a lot of life left.
Checking for shorts
Now an important test. With a DMM
set to a high Ohms range measure be
tween the chassis and the Active and
Neutral mains leads. There should be
a very high reading (many megohms)
or over-range. This is not the best
method of checking that the power
transformer insulation is good but it
does check for direct shorts.
Use a safety switch
The DMM resistance check is handy
but it is more practical to obtain a
Safety Switch (RCD, earth leakage
detector or whatever you like to call
them) as it will quickly detect any
dangerous leakage to earth in anything
attached to it. Note too that dangerous voltages are present in valve
receivers, so don’t touch any part of
the circuit while a set is switched on.
To test the receiver, attach an earth
lead to it, connect it up via the Safety
Switch and apply power. If there is
dan
gerous leakage the device will
trip, removing power before damage
is done to anything or anyone. I use
one all the time and I strongly suggest
that you do too.
All being well, which it is 99.9%
of the time, I then turn the power on
December 2000 81
no increase in temperature. If there is,
that capacitor has excessive leakage
current and should be replaced.
In this set, the capacitors formed
up quite quickly, so none required re
placement. However, they could still
require replacement if hum becomes
evident in the audio.
To check if an electrolytic capacitor
has lost its capacitance, try bridging
a similarly rated capacitor across the
one that you are checking. Remember
that electrolytic capacitors are polar
ised and must be connected positive
to positive, and negative to negative
or the capacitor may be ruined. If the
hum disappears when you bridge the
suspect capacitor, it proves that it is
defective and should be replaced.
Checking the audio stage
This above chassis view shows the modification which was necessary to peak
the loop stick tuning at the low frequency end of the dial.
with the dial lamps installed but no
valves in the sockets. I run the set for
perhaps half an hour and check the
transformer for heat rise. It should
just be above cold; certainly not hot.
Testing the power supply
I then switch off and check with the
multimeter (using one or more ohms
ranges) that there is no short circuit
between the high tension (HT) line
(the plus terminal of the first elec
trolytic capacitor) and the chas
sis.
It should not be lower than around
47kΩ. If it is, I check to see why and
correct the problem. A shorted capac
itor (eg, one of the electrolytics) is a
likely source, as the paper capacitors
have already been replaced.
Next, I set the multimeter to a high
DC voltage range and connect it across
the HT rail using insulated clip leads.
I then fit the rectifier valve but leave
all the other valves out.
The next step is to turn the set on
and observe both the rectifier and the
multimeter, as the rectifier warms
up. All being well, the hight tension
(HT) voltage will rise quickly as the
valve warms. If it doesn’t, look at the
rectifier; if its plates are glowing red,
you have a short that has developed
with the application of voltage.
The way to check this is to switch
off and disconnect each of the elec
trolytic capacitors and see what
82 Silicon Chip
happens when power is reapplied. If
there are still problems, the rectifier
may be faulty or there is some other
voltage-dependent short. It will even
tually be found, by progressively dis
connecting bits and pieces. Warning:
make sure that the voltage on the HT
rail has fallen to a very low value before disconnecting the electrolytics;
ie, they must be discharged.
Forming the capacitors
Having sorted out any shorts, it
is quite likely that the electrolytic
capacitors may need forming – the
more modern ones don’t need much
attention in this regard. “Forming”
is the development of an insulating
dielectric layer in the capacitor with
applied voltage. This layer deterio
rates over a period through lack of use.
Turn the set on again and observe
the voltage rise until it nearly stabilis
es. Now turn the set off and observe
how quickly the voltage disappears.
Initially this is fairly quickly. Leave
it about a minute and go through the
same procedure again. Do this several
times, until such time as the voltage
drops quite slowly – providing there
is no bleeder resistor from the high
tension to chassis.
If all appears well, leave the set
to run for a few minutes, turn off
and then feel each of the electrolytic
capacitors. There should be little or
The AWA 467MA has only one
audio stage, a 6BV7. I check that
the speaker transformer primary has
continuity between the plate and the
high tension (HT) output of the sup
ply. Make sure the set is off and that
the HT voltage has dropped to zero
before connecting your multimeter
(switched to Ohms) across the trans
former. The reading will usually be
in the range 300Ω to 500Ω. If there is
no continuity, the speaker transform
er will need to be replaced. Faulty
speaker transformers are common,
unfortunately.
Next, I reconnected the test leads
across the HT to chassis and set the
multimeter to a high DC volts range
again. I fitted the 6BV7 valve with the
set turned off and then turned it on.
As expected, the DC voltage was not
as high now, as the valve was drawing
current. To check the current, turn off
the power and connect the multimeter
across the back bias resistor – ie, the
one from the transformer centre tap
to earth.
Most of the last valve sets used
back bias and in this particular set,
the bias voltage developed is around
4V. With a 6M5, it would have been
up around 7V and with a 6V6GT or
6AQ5, it would be around 12V. All the
tests so far had been quite successful.
Alignment
The next step I take is to install the
remainder of the valves and connect
an aerial and earth. Once the set
warmed up, there were signs of activ
ity and I was able to tune in a number
of stations. I check the tuning range
and the intermediate frequency (IF)
response with a signal generator. As a
newcomer, it is unlikely that you will
have one, hence it is desirable to leave
the alignment alone or if possible take
it to another enthusiast and ask him/
her to align the receiver for you.
In this receiver, I found that the IF
response was slightly out and it was
adjusted for optimum performance.
I did run into trouble with the loop
stick aerial coil adjustment at the
low-frequency end of the dial. The
coil is held in position on the rod
with some sticky gunk. It had gone
very hard and I could not shift the coil
along the rod to get peak performance
at that end of the dial.
In one of the photos, it can be
seen that I have added some wire
and wound it around the rod to peak
the performance. It was necessary to
wind one turn of wire on the rod in
anti-phase to peak the performance.
This was a messy job but the end re
sult was improved performance. The
technique for doing this will have to
wait until another time.
A sparkling cabinet
This set’s cabinet was in good order
so it didn’t take a lot of work to make
it look loved again. I usually wash the
plastic cabinets in warm soapy water
in the laundry sink. If the cabinet has
any transfers in it such as valve place
ment or similar, try to make sure that
they don’t get wet or they may disin
tegrate. Often receivers of this vintage
have had the odd sticky transfer put
on them by the teenagers of the family
and these need to be soaked off.
A nail brush or an old toothbrush
makes an ideal scrubbing tool to get
the gunk off the surfaces. The knobs
usually respond to a good scrub too.
Once they’re thoroughly clean, rinse
them in clean water and leave to dry.
Once dry, the clean but dull looking
cabinet and knobs need a dose of au
tomobile cream cut and polish. Read
and follow the instructions on the tin
and the end result will be a sparking
receiver cabinet.
Summary
You may have noticed over the time
I have been writing these articles that
I seem to have very few nasty faults
in sets. I believe this is because the
faults have been removed by replacing
components that are usually faulty
and not turning the set on until all of
these things have been attended to.
In the later period of valved equip
ment, valves proved to be quite reli
able. I average around none to one
valve per set restored. The old saying
in the valve days was “it’s probably
just a valve”. However, I have found
the most likely fault to be a leaky
paper capacitor.
With everything operating and
clean, it is just a matter of putting the
chassis back into the cabinet, putting
the knobs on and standing back,
admiring and listening to your first
restoration success. As time goes by,
you will become more venturesome
and will restore some very elaborate
pieces of our radio history, but you
won’t forget your first restoration. SC
ELECTRONIC VALVE &
TUBE COMPANY
The Electronic Valve
& Tube Company
(EVATCO) stocks a
large range of valves for
vintage radio, amateur
radio, industrial and
small transmitting use.
Major current brands
such as SOV-TEK and
SVETLANA are always stocked and we
can supply some rare NOS (New - Old
stock) brands such as Mullard, Telefunken, RCA and Philips.
Hard to get high-voltage electrolytic
capacitors and valve sockets are also
available together with a wide range
of books covering valve specifications,
design and/or modification of valve
audio amplifiers.
PO Box 487 Drysdale, Victoria 3222.
Tel: (03) 5257 2297; Fax: (03) 5257 1773
Mob: 0417 143 167;
email: evatco<at>mira.net
New premises at: 76 Bluff Road,
St Leonards, Vic 3223
Silicon Chip
Binders
REAL
VALUE
AT
$12.95
PLUS
P&P
Heavy board covers with 2-tone
green vinyl covering
Each binder holds up to 14 issues
SILICON CHIP logo printed on spine
& cover
Price: $A12.95 plus $A5 p&p each
(Australia only)
Car polish and elbow grease result in a pristine appearance, adding to the
satisfaction of a restored receiver.
Just fill in & mail the handy order form
in this issue; or fax (02) 9979 6503;
or ring (02) 9979 5644 & quote your
credit card number.
December 2000 83
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
Wireless networking from
Microgram
If you're looking for the ultimate
Christmas present – for the person
who really does have everything –
how about this do-it-yourself Wireless
Networking system from Micro-gram
Computers.
While wireless networking was first
introduced for laptops and notebooks
(and indeed this system is suitable for
those) it has now come down to more
affordable levels – to the point where
it’s a viable proposition for home and
small office PCs.
It's the perfect answer when you
don’t want to (or cannot) run network
cables.
We plan to present a full review
of this system in the January issue of
SILICON CHIP but thought we should
at least mention it here – just in time
for Christmas!
84 Silicon Chip
If you liked the idea of the giant
Santa & Rudolph Chrismtas deco
ration last month* but didn’t like
the idea of building it yourself,
Jaycar Electronics stores have a
huge range of Christmas lighting
decorations – from tiny to huge –
which is sure to get lots of “oohs”
and “aahs” around December 25!
Full details are available from Mi
crogram Computers either by phone,
fax or website.
Contact:
Microgram Computers
Unit 1, 14 Bon Mace Close,
Berkely Vale NSW 2261
Phone: (02) 4389 8444
Fax:
(02) 4389 8388
website: www.mgram.com.au
New Dick Smith Electronics PowerHouse
opening at Warringah Mall, Brookvale
Dick Smith Electronics will open its
eighth PowerHouse store, at Warringah
Mall in Sydney’s northern beaches
area, this month.
PowerHouse stores are divided
into four main ‘zones’ – electronics,
entertainment, communications and
computers. Everything at a Dick Smith
Electronics PowerHouse is plugged
in, powered up and fully tuned for
customers to try out.
The new store, located on the
ground floor of Warringah Mall, covers
2,000 square metres (about six times
the size of an average DSE store) with
over 30,000 products in its range.
Since news of the PowerHouse store
had become known, there had been
some conjecture about the future of the
current Dick Smith Electronics store
at Warringah Mall, which itself had
been tripled in size and refurbished
only two months ago.
A Dick Smith Electronics spokesper
son said that the company was happy
to keep both stores operating despite
their close proximity. “We have oth
Jaycar can really light
up your Christmas!
ers close together and operating very
well, though none quite as close as in
Warringah Mall."
The Santa Sleigh shown above,
for example, is a huge 184 x 181cm
and sells for $458.00. If that’s a bit
too much for you, other Christmas
lighting designs start at less than
$20.
Most are designed to be used
outdoors as well as inside.
For more information visit your
nearest Jaycar Electronics store.
They're also displayed on the
Jaycar Electronics website, www.
jaycar.com.au
* Kits for the Santa & Rudolph
Christmas Lights Display, featured
in the November issue of SILICON
CHIP, are now available through
Jaycar and DSE.
World's worst manual contest
Just a reminder for the holiday season:
“when all else fails, read the manual”.
Have you ever been so frustrated with
a manual or set of instructions that you
cursed the author and wished you had
never bought the product? Do you remember the last time you used “Help” on your
computer and every click of the mouse led
to a new set of decisions?
Does this sound familiar? How about
$US500 for your frustration? Technical
Standards, Inc. (TSI), a Southern California
documentation services company, is offering
$US500 for the winning entry in their ‘Worst
Manual Contest.’
Send a manual or set of instructions that
is hard to understand, poorly written, or just
plain wrong. Send it if it has bad grammar,
Free Data Analysis Reference Book & CD
Tektronix has developed a reference book
and CD-ROM aimed at teaching design en
gineers and technicians how to use popular
software to analyze oscilloscope data.
The book, titled "Oscilloscope Connectivity
Made Easy" covers programs such as Microsoft
Excel, Mathcad and MatLAB. It is geared to
wards those who need to quickly analyse and
organise their oscilloscope data using standard
PC-based analysis tools.
Based on Tektronix' TDS7000 series of
scopes, the book explains and illustrates how
useres can easily capture, analyse and archive
data automatically using off-the-shelf programs.
The book and its accompanying
Contact:
CD can be ordered directly from the
Tektronix Australia Pty Ltd
Tektronix website or by phone (see
Phone: 1800 023 342
details below).
Website: www.tektronix.com/
It is valued at $US149 but it is
scopes_accessories
free of charge until March 31 2001.
AUDIO MODULES
broadcast quality
Manufactured in Australia
Harbuch Electronics Pty Ltd
9/40 Leighton Pl. HORNSBY 2077
Ph (02) 9476-5854 Fx (02) 9476-3231
Free organ concert invite
Yokogawa 2GSa/s 500MHz DSO
The new DL7200 Digital Storage
Oscilloscope from Yokogawa offers
up to 500MHz bandwidth and 2GSa/s
sampling rate. It also offers up to
16MW of memory, fast screen updates
(30 per second), all-points display
and easy-to-use zoom and search
functions.
However, Yokogawa maintain that
while wide bandwidth and fast sam
pling are important, long memory
is critical in reliably capturing high
too much legalese, is poorly translated, or
has missing steps. If it is the worst entry,
you will win $500.
“Everyone has had trouble with a manual,”
said Michelle Wier, Director of Operations
of Technical Standards, Inc. “That's why we
started our company. People like products
they understand how to use, and good
technical documentation reduces the need
speed events. This DSO can
sample at 2GSa/s even with
a time window of 8ms (or
16ms at 1GSa/s). The new
pattern search function makes
it easy to locate specific signal
patterns (up to 64 bits long)
anywhere in the long memory,
making it ideal for debugging
serial bus applications.
The DSO also offers ethernet
capability, making it simple to
connect to a PC via a network,
print to a network printer or
even receive error information from
remote instruments using the email
function. GPIB and RS232C commu
nication are also included.
Contact:
Yokogawa Australia Pty Ltd
Locked Bag 29, Rydalmere NSW 2116
Phone: (02) 9805 0699
Fax:
(02) 9888 1844
email: measurement<at>yokogawa.com.au
for technical support.”
You don’t have to send the whole manual; excerpts of the worst parts are OK.
The deadline for submissions is January
15, 2001, so check those Christmas gifts
for potential entries.
Entries must be in English. For complete
contest rules see the TSI Web site at www.
tecstandards.com
OK, so it’s not quite a product. But
it’s certainly a showcase!
We know that many SILICON CHIP
readers are also theatre/pipe organ
fans – so here’s a freebie which will
be of interest to you.
The Friends of Sydney Town
Hall Organ (FOTSTHO) are inviting
anyone and everyone to attend this
year’s Christmas Concert in Sydney
Town Hall. It will of course feature
one of the most amazing, famous
and exciting musical instruments in
the world – the 110-year-old Sydney
Town Hall Pipe Organ.
Spectacular and massive to look
at, this restored organ has nearly
9000 pipes, ranging from just a few
centimetres long to almost 20 metres
(a full-length 64-ft monster). There
are six keyboards – five for the hands
and one for the feet. (For more info on
this beautiful organ visit http:/www.
cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au)
The concert is on Tuesday 19th
December from 8 to 9.30pm and will
also include the Castle Hill RSL Youth
Band, Kevinwood Hand Bells, choirs
and Robert Ampt (the City of Sydney
Organist) on the keyboard(s).
And again to remind you – admission is free.
December 2000 85
TRONICSHOWCASELECTR
EMC Technologies' internationally
recognised Electromagnetic
Compatibility (EMC) test facilities are fully
accredited for emissions, immunity and
safety standards.
EMC Technologies
Melbourne: (03) 9335 3333
Sydney: (02) 9899 4599
MicroZed Computers
GENUINE STAMP PRODUCTS
NEW!
HC-5 hi-res Vi
deo
Distribution
Amplifier
DVS5
Video & Audio
str
Di ibution
Amplifier
VGS2
Graphics
Splitter
FROM
Scott Edwards Electronics
microEngineering Labs & others
Easy to learn, easy to use, sophisticated
CPU based controllers & peripherals.
PO Box 634, ARMIDALE 2350
(296 Cook’s Rd)
Ph (02) 6772 2777 – may time out to
Mobile 0409 036 775 Fax (02) 6772 8987
http://www.microzed.com.au
Most Credit Cards OK
Five identical Video and Stereo outputs
plus h/phone & monitor out. S-Video &
Composite versions available.
Professional quality.
For broadcast, audiovisual and film
industries. Wide bandwidth, high output and
unconditional stability with hum-cancelling
circuitry, front-panel video gain and cable eq
adjustments. 240V AC, 120V AC or 24V DC
High resolution 1in/2out VGA splitter.
Comes with 1.5m HQ cable and 12V
supply. Custom-length HQ VGA
cables also available.
Check our NEW website for latest prices and MONTHLY
SPECIALS
www.questronix.com.au
Email: questav<at>questronix.com.au
Video Processors, Colour Correctors, Stabilisers, TBC’s, Converters, etc.
QUESTRONIX
All mail: PO Box 548, Wahroonga NSW 2076
Ph (02) 9477 3596 Fax (02) 9477 3681
Visitors by appointment only
Marantz SR-14EX “top of the line” home theatre receiver
If you have an idle $6990, the allnew Marantz SR-14EX can take pride
of place in your Home Theatre setup.
For your money, you’ll get Dolby
Digital and DTS surround sound along
with Zoran's new format THX Surround
EX capability. THX Surround EX format
decodes an additional back surround
channel from suitably encoded DVDs,
providing a more realistic surround
sound environment with smoother
360° surround effects and more pre
cise localisation behind and beside
the viewer.
The SR-14EX also incl-udes
THX post processing for
the most accurate possi
ble reproduction of movie
soundtracks in the home.
24-bit 192kHz D/A con
verters on all five main
channels plus a separate
DSP chip and 24-bit A/D
converter to provide the
highest resolution playback
86 Silicon Chip
from multi-channel movies and 96/24
DVD audio discs. HDCD decoding and
pro-cessing is included for HDCD-en
coded compact discs.
Three sets of component video in
puts, an extensive array of digital and
analog inputs, outputs and switching
facilities, front panel A/V inputs and
an RF input (for use with Dolby-Digital
encoded laser discs) are just some of
the processing capabilities. The am
plifier delivers 140W (8Ω) into each of
its five main channels. Tone controls
operate in the digital domain on all
main channels.
A precision AM/FM tuner is also
built in, as is an icon-based multi-lin
gual on-screen display. The SR-14EX is
somewhat “future proofed” by provid
ing six channel direct output to accom
modate future surround sound formats
plus 7.1 channel pre-amp outputs for
connection to external amplifiers or
subwoofers.
An RC-5000 Programmable Remote
Control (which can be used with every
component in a home entertainment
system) is also included.
Marantz equipment is dis
tributed in Australia by Jamo
SC
Australia.
Contact:
Jamo Australia
Phone: (03) 9543 1522
Fax:
(03) 9543 3677
email: info<at>marantz.com.au
R
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Write to: Ask Silicon Chip, PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097.
Electronic brakes
for model tram
I would like to develop an electron
ic braking system for my miniature
trams, that is more efficient and less
severe than just reversing the power,
an action which usually results in
the driving wheels spinning without
traction.
The circuit used to power the
trams runs at 24V DC. The amperage
is unknown but can peak at quite a
bit more than 20A, as follows. With
the driving wheels off the track, such
that there is no load, the motor draws
about 6.9A. With the tram travelling
on the flat and no passengers, the
motor draws about 14.9A and when
the tram starts on a gradient, the cur
rent jumps quickly to beyond 20A
(which is the limit of my measuring
equipment). Hopefully, the peak will
be less than 50A.
The motors are 12V generators
which have had their field coils’ earth
isolated from their brushes’ earth,
such that reverse motion is obtaina
ble. Could the Railpower controller
of April 1988 be modified to provide
Metal locator
adjustment problem
I have built the Induction Bal
ance Metal Locator from the May
1994 issue of SILICON CHIP and I’m
having trouble balancing the coils.
I can’t seem to get it much below
4V. I think I have followed your
instructions to the letter.
I have been fault finding the
circuit but as yet have drawn a big
zero. Any sugges
tions would be
appreciated. (R. S., Wodonga, Vic).
• The output from TP1 should
be closer to 1V rather than 4V. A
reading of 4V suggests that either
the .01µF capacitor at the wiper of
VR1 is leaky or there is a problem
on the PC board causing the volt
age to be high. Check also that the
reverse smooth pulse braking at 24V
and up to 50A, such that the brakes
can be applied smoothly?
Plus, could it also have two sets of
power transistors since I am likely to
use two motor set-ups per tram due
to the steep track gradient in use, and
thus will need two separate brakes
controlled by a single circuit? (B. B.,
St. Andrews, NSW).
• The Railpower circuit could not
easily be upgraded to 50A. In any case,
the accepted way of braking is to short
the DC output of the motor. Have a
look at the 50A DC Speed Control in
the May 2000 issue – it had braking
incorporated.
Controlling a regulator
with an op amp
I have been reading your recent
“Electronics TestBench” magazine
and noticed the Dual Tracking Power
Supply. This has given me an idea for
solving a problem I have. I need to be
able to control the output voltage of
an LT1038 10A regulator (which is
similar to an LM338 but heavier cur
rent) from an external voltage supply
330kΩ resistor and 0.1µF capacitor
between pin 5 of IC1c and ground
are OK.
Alternatively, the coil coupling
between L1 and L2 may be incor
rect. Note that the adjustment is
rather critical and must be done
away from any metal objects. So
adjust the overlap coupling between
the two coils very slowly and care
fully so that the voltage at TP1 drops
to a low value.
This adjustment sets the sensi
tivity of the search head to metal
objects and a high voltage will give
reduced sensitivity. The adjustment
may take several attempts as you
develop a “feel” for how the volt
age changes with coil movement.
The voltage should rise as metal is
brought near the search head.
(actually the output of a PC DAC card).
The idea of using an op amp to
do the control work is one which I
think would work well. But I need it
to control a positive regulator with a
positive control signal of 0-10V. The
input to the regulator will be about
32V and the output from 1.25V to
24V. Can you think of a way to adapt
the tracking negative side of the dual
power supply to accomplish this? (C.
H., via email).
• The regulator can be controlled
using an op amp. Since you want to
provide a 1.25V to 24V output with
a control voltage from 0-10V, the op
amp’s gain would need to be 2.28.
Using an LM358 op amp and the input
voltage to provide the power supply
rails, connect the op amp output to
the adjust terminal of the regulator.
Connect the op amp up as a
non-inverting amplifier with a gain
of 2.28. Thus the feedback resistor
will need to be 1.28 times larger than
the resistor from the inverting input
to ground. This is because the gain
of the non-inverting amplifier is 1+
the feedback resistor gain setting. (ie,
use a 1kΩ resistor from the inverting
input to ground and a 1.3kΩ resistor
from inverting input to output). The
non-inverting input then connects to
the 0-10V control voltage.
Fitting CDI to
a Mazda rotary
In John Clarke’s article on the Mul
ti-Spark CDI system in the September
1997 issue of SILICON CHIP, he refers
only to using the kit in vehicles
equipped with a distributor.
I would like to use this kit in a Maz
da that has a 13B rotary. The 13B has
no distributor but fires the four plugs
directly from two coils – each coil
having two plug leads coming from it.
One coil fires the “leading” set
of plugs while the other fires the
“trailing” set of plugs. It is relative
ly common on the 13Bs to use the
American MSD 6A ignition amplifier
running through the leading coil only.
December 2000 87
Audio compressor
design query
I have found an apparent prob
lem in the “1-Chip Microphone
Audio Compressor” presented in
the March 1999 issue of SILICON
CHIP.
In your article, on page 58 in
the specifications section, the
`Ratio control’ entry mentions a
ratio of compression between 1:1
and 15:1, with a pot centre setting
of 7:1. However, in the data sheet
for the SSM2166, a table on page
4 indicates that a compression
ratio of 15:1 is achieved using a
395kΩ resistor between pin 10 and
ground, and your circuit on page
58 and the parts list both indicate
use of a 50kΩ pot to ground, clearly
suggesting a maximum compres
sion ratio of around 3:1.
Would you care to comment on
this discrepancy? (C. A., Brisbane,
Qld).
• The data sheet that we have
from Analog Devices concerning
(Amplifiers on the trailing coil are not
recommended).
Any advice would be greatly appre
ciated. (H. W., via email).
• You will need two kits – one for
each coil. Alternatively, you could
just use one kit to fire the coil for the
leading spark plug in each chamber.
Questions on
interfacing
I have three specific questions
which are basically simple but I can
find no satisfactory reference to these
in my technical library or on the
“web”. First, how can the output of
a microcontroller be optimally inter
faced to low current devices such as
LEDs or higher current devices such
as DC relays, in order to minimise
sinking current from the MCU.
Second, is there a “rule-of-thumb”
method for determining the appropri
ate values of capacitor (and perhaps
resistor) required to provide a “sparkquench” across the contacts of a DC
relay? Third, is there any PC-based
application/stationery avail
able at
reasonable cost to assist in artwork
production for projects? It seems to
88 Silicon Chip
the SSM2166 shows values from
pin 10 to ground varying from zero
ohms for 1:1 compression up to
49kΩ for a 15:1 compression at a
300mV limiting rotation point. For
a 1V RMS rotation point, which
would be the normal setting, the
value of resistance for 15:1 com
pression would be 32kΩ. These
values are found on page 4 and
Fig.5. Thus, the 50kΩ pot for VR3
is correct.
Note that the compression ratio
is somewhat interdependent on
the rotation point setting (at pin
11) and the actual position of the
compression knob does not show a
precise compression ratio setting.
The compression range was
tested using the 50kΩ pot at pin
10 and we did obtain 1:1 up to
15:1 compression as stated. Use of
a 395kΩ pot (500kΩ) would only
produce a control which operates
over the first 25% of travel. The
final 75% of travel would have no
effect and maintain the compres
sion at the maximum 15:1.
me that software such as CorelDraw
would be suitable for the design but
whether such stationery is available is
a mystery! (A. L., Ringwood East, Vic).
• Have a look at the Multi-Purpose
I/O Board For PCs in the March 1991
issue. It will drive relays or LEDs.
We can supply the issue for $7.00
including postage.
We don’t know of any rules of
thumb for RC damping circuits across
relay contacts. A reverse-biased diode
is simpler and more effective.
As far as artwork production is con
cerned, do you mean for PC boards or
front panels? For PC boards you could
use Protel Easytrax (public domain).
For front panels you can even use a
word processor such as Word.
Motorbike
CDI wanted
Can you please advise where I
might find a circuit design for a simple
Capacitor Discharge Ignition system? I
want to fit one to a motor-cycle. It has
a charging coil, already in the alterna
tor, a pickup coil, for triggering but it
doesn’t have a battery. (J. P., via email).
• The only CDI system we have
described is the Multi-Spark CDI in
the September 1997 issue but it does
require a battery and it isn’t simple.
We understand that you want a mag
neto-charged CDI system (as on some
modern bikes) but unfortunately we
have not described a suitable circuit.
If sufficient readers are interested in
such a project, we’ll have a look at
developing a suitable circuit.
How to measure to
99,000 RPM
I was wondering if you could help
me with some info about the 5-Digit
Tachometer project in the October
1997 issue. The specs say that the
maximum RPM reading is 60,000.
What are the factors limiting the
reading to 60,000?
I would like to measure up to
99,000 RPM. Is this possible? (C. W.,
via email).
• The factors limiting the maximum
rpm reading are the .056µF input filter
capacitor and .056µF capacitor at the
collector of Q1. The 100pF capacitor
between pins 6 & 7 of IC, the phase
lock loop, is another limiting factor.
You could reduce these values to say
.027µF and 68pF, respectively, to ob
tain the required 99,000 RPM.
High charge rates
from battery charger
I have just completed the Mul
ti-Purpose Battery Charger described
in February & March 1998. Having got
it to go, I found to my amazement that
the charge current was a whopping
3A and the discharge current 2.02A.
I had plugged in four 1.2V NiCd torch
cells that had a 1.2A.h rating and they
charged and discharged OK but I’m
a bit concerned at the charging rates.
Also, the inductor buzzes.
The big question is this: is your
circuit designed to charge only big
gel pack batteries, ie, radio batteries,
car and bike batteries, and phone and
drill battery packs? I wanted to charge
NiCd AAA, AA & D cell types. (K. T.,
via email).
• The Multi-Purpose Fast Battery
Charger was designed to provide a
nominal 6A of charge current and
2A discharge.This was stated in the
specifications and should not come
as a surprise.
We stated that it is suitable for
tools, camcorders, RC equipment and
car batteries. It is probably not really
suitable for AAA cells. However, the
method of detecting the end-point
for charging should prevent dam
age to any of your cells or batteries
whether AA or larger. We suggest
using the thermistor for end
point
detection when charging the smaller
NiCd types, to prevent overheating
of the cells.
Buzzing or squeal in the transform
er is normal. It can be quietened by
potting the windings in epoxy.
Using the Champ
as a preamp
I wanted to ask if I can use the
Champ, a 0.5W amplifier described
in February 1994, as a preamplifier.
What would the frequency response
of this kit be?
I want to install it between a Dolby
receiver and a subwoofer amplifier,
as the receiver’s pre-out signal isn’t
enough for the subwoofer amplifier.
Would I lose the low end using the
Champ? (D. C., via email).
• You can use the Champ as a
preamp. Provided you don’t load the
output of the little amplifier with 8Ω
but couple straight into your subwoof
er amplifier, the frequency response
should be flat down to below 10Hz.
However, you will probably need
to set the on-board pot well down
because you won’t need all the gain.
Blocking capacitor
in phone line
I am working on a project that re
quires me to connect to a telephone
line. Wanting to “do the right thing”, I
purchased a 600Ω isolation transform
er (Austel approved). My application
requires a telephone to be connected
Amplifiers wanted
for computer
surround sound
I have been looking for suitable
kits to build to provide good sur
round sound for my computer.
My computer has a SoundBlaster
Live card which provides front
and rear line outputs. Not a lot
of power will be required – say
10-15W RMS per channel for the
front and rear – but I have no idea
how much power is required for a
sub-woofer channel.
in parallel with the project for engi
neering/monitoring purposes before
switching to the project.
Having built the prototype, I con
nected everything up and the phone
worked fine (I heard dial tone). When
I switched in the project, the phone
died. I measured the line voltage and
found 0.7VDC! When “on-hook” the
phone line read 47V and 6V when
“off-hook”. When I measured the
transformer resistance, I got 21Ω! No
wonder there was no voltage to drive
the phone. So why do they quote
600Ω for the transformer when it
clearly isn’t?
As a footnote, I returned to Jaycar
and checked out some other ones and
came up with similar results. How can
I use these so-called isolation trans
formers and still have a telephone
connected and operational?
Do I put a 600Ω resistor across the
line and use capacitors in series with
the transformer leads? (I. B., Monash,
ACT).
• You need a blocking capacitor in
I was thinking of using a couple
of your “15W/Channel Class-A
Stereo Amplifier” kits for the front
and rear and I’m not sure what to
use for the sub-woofer.
• Have a look at our 50W module
described in March 1994. If you
don’t want the full 50W, just run
it with reduced DC supplies. Kits
are available from Altronics, Jaycar
and DSE. We can supply the March
1994 issue for $7.70 including
postage.
Don’t use the 15W class A mod
ule – it is too good and too expen
sive for your application.
series with the primary of the isola
tion transformer. Try a 10µF 100VW
bipolar capacitor.
The transformer primary and sec
ondary winding can be expected to
have quite a low DC resistance. The
600Ω rating refers to the impedance
of the phone line circuit not the trans
former. If the transformer winding re
sistance was high, it would introduce
large losses into the circuit.
Notes & Errata
50W Amplifier Module, March 1994:
the 22µF capacitor connected to pin
8 on the LM3876 is shown reversebiased on both the circuit and wiring
diagram. The 220µF capacitor con
nected to the negative supply rail is
also connected the wrong way on the
circuit but is correctly shown on the
wiring diagram.
Modules that have been running for
more than a few hours should have the
SC
22µF capacitor replaced.
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be
carried out according to the instructions in the articles. When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do
not accidentally come into contact with mains AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects
employing mains voltages or other high voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd
disclaims any liability for damages should anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of
SILICON CHIP magazine. Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any
liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims
any liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the Trade
Practices Act 1974 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are applicable.
December 2000 89
REFERENCE
GREAT BOOKS FOR
AUDIO POWER AMP DESIGN HANDBOOK
NEW
NEW
NEW
NEW
INDUSTRIAL BRUSHLESS SERVOMOTORS
By Douglas Self. 2nd Edition Published 2000
85
$
By Peter Moreton. Publ. 2000
From one of the world’s most respected audio
authorities. The new 2nd edition is even more
comprehensive, includes sections on load-invariant power amps, distortion residuals, diagnosis of amplifier problems, and much more.
368 pages in paperback.
VIDEO SCRAMBLING AND DESCRAMBLING for
If you've ever wondered how they scramble video
on cable and satellite TV, this book tells you! Encoding/decoding systems (analog and digital systems),
encryption, even schematics and details of several
encoder and decoder circuits for experimentation.
Intended for both the hobbyist and the professional.
290 pages in paperback.
NEW 2nd
TCP/IP EXPLAINED
99
AUDIO ELECTRONICS
Satellite & Cable TV by Graf & Sheets
Edition 1998
$
By John Linsley Hood. First published 1995.
Second edition 1999.
65
$
This book is for anyone involved in designing,
adapting and using analog and digital audio
equipment. It covers tape recording, tuners and
radio receivers, preamplifiers, voltage amplifiers, audio power amplifiers, compact disc
technology and digital audio, test and measurement, loudspeaker crossover systems,
power supplies and noise reduction systems.
375 pages in soft cover.
By Philip Miller. Published 1997.
$
99
By Tim Williams. First published 1991
(reprinted 1997).
$
LOCAL AREA NETWORKS:
An Introduction to the Technology
65
Includes grounding, printed circuit design and
layout, the characteristics of practical active and
passive components, cables, linear ICs, logic
circuits and their interfaces, power supplies,
electromagnetic compatibility, safety and thermal
management. 302 pages, in paperback.
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES
By John E. McNamara. 2nd edition 1996.
By Austin Hughes. Second edition
published 1993 (reprinted 1997).
69
$
For non-specialist users – explores most of
the widely-used modern types of motor and
drive, including conventional and brushless DC,
induction, stepping, synchronous and reluctance
motors. 339 pages, in paperback.
ESSENTIAL LINUX
EMC FOR PRODUCT DESIGNERS
99
90 Silicon Chip
Widely regarded as the standard text on EMC,
this book provides all the information necessary to meet the requirements of the EMC
Directive. It includes chapters on standards,
measurement techniques and design principles,
including layout and grounding, digital and
analog circuit design, filtering and shielding and
interference sources. The four appendices give
a design checklist and include useful tables,
data and formulae. 299 pages, in soft cover.
65
$
By Steve Heath. Published 1997.
By Tim Williams.
First published 1992. 2nd edition 1996.
$
85
$
THE CIRCUIT DESIGNER’S COMPANION
Assumes no prior knowledge of TCP/IP, only a
basic understanding of LAN access protocols,
explaining all the elements and alternatives. Combines study questions with reference material.
Examples of network designs and implementations are given. 518 pages, in paperback.
Want to become more familiar with local area
networks (LANs) without facing the challenge of
a 400-page text? . Gives familiarity with the
concepts involved and provides a start for
reading more detailed texts. 191 pages, in
paperback.
Designed as a guide for professionals and
a module text for electrical and mechanical
engineering students. A step-by-step approach
covering construction, how they work, how the
motor behaves and how it is rated and selected.
It may only be a small book but it has outstanding content! 186 pages in hardback.
$
85
Provides all the information and software
that is necessary for a PC user to install and
use the freeware Linux operating system. It
details, setp-by-step, how to obtain and configure the operating system and utilities. It also
explains all of the key commands. The text is
generously illustrated with screen shots and
examples that show how the commands work.
Includes a CD-ROM containing Linux version
1.3 and including all the interim updates, basic
utilities and compilers with their associated
documentation. 257 pages, in paperback.
BOOKSHOP
WANT TO SAVE 10%?
SILICON CHIP SUBSCRIBERS
AUTOMATICALLY QUALIFY FOR A 10%
DISCOUNT ON ALL BOOK PURCHASES!
ENQUIRING MINDS!
(To subscribe, see page 57)
ALL PRICES INCLUDE GST
UNDERSTANDING TELEPHONE ELECTRONICS
THE ART OF LINEAR ELECTRONICS
By Stephen J. Bigelow.
Third edition published 1997 by Butterworth-Heinemann.
$
59
A very useful text for anyone wanting to
become familiar with the basics of telephone
technology. The 10 chapters explore telephone
fundamentals, speech signal processing,
telephone line interfacing, tone and pulse
generation, ringers, digital transmission
techniques (modems & fax
machines) and much more. Ideal for
students. 367 pages, in soft cover.
By John Linsley Hood. First published
1993. NEW SECOND EDITION 1998.
$
88
00
This practical handbook from one of the
world’s most prolific audio designers has
been updated and amended to make it the
leading practical source of information for
those interested in linear electronics and
its applications, particularly in the world of
audio design. 348 pages, in paperback.
DIGITAL ELECTRONICS – A PRACTICAL APPROACH
By Richard Monk. Published 1998.
GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY
By Eugene Trundle. First published 1988.
Second edition 1996.
Eugene Trundle has written for many years in
Television magazine and his latest book is right
up to date on TV and video technology. The
book includes both theory and practical servicing information and is ideal for both students
and technicians. 382 pages, in paperback.
$
SETTING UP A WEB SERVER
59
By Simon Collin. Published 1997.
$
O
R
D
E
R
H
E
R
E
P&P
69
Covers all major platforms, software, links and
web techniques. It details each step required
to choose, install and configure the hardware
and software elements, create an effective site
and promote it successfully. 273 pages, in
paperback
AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN...............................$85.00
INDUSTRIAL BRUSHLESS SERVO MOTORS..................$99.00
VIDEO SCRAMBLING/DESCRAMBLING..........................$65.00
TCP/IP EXPLAINED.........................................................$99.00
LOCAL AREA NETWORKS...............................................$69.00
SETTING UP A WEB SERVER..........................................$69.00
THE CIRCUIT DESIGNER’S COMPANION........................$65.00
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES...................................$65.00
UNDERSTANDING TELEPHONE ELECTRONICS.................$59.00
AUDIO ELECTRONICS.....................................................$85.00
GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY............................$59.00
EMC FOR PRODUCT DESIGNERS...................................$99.00
THE ART OF LINEAR ELECTRONICS ..............................$88.00
DIGITAL ELECTRONICS ..................................................$65.00
ESSENTIAL LINUX..........................................................$85.00
ORDER TOTAL: $......................
Orders over $100 P&P free in Australia.
AUST: Add $A5.50 per book
NZ: Add $A10 per book, $A15 elsewhere
With this book you can learn the principles
and practice of digital electronics without
leaving your desk, through the popular
simulation applications, EASY-PC Pro XM
and Pulsar. Alternatively, if you want to discover the applications through a thoroughly
practical exploration of digital electronics,
this is the book for you. A free floppy disk is
included, featuring limited function versions
of EASY-PC Professional XM and Pulsar.
249 pages, in paperback.
65
$
SEE ELSEWHERE IN THIS ISSUE FOR:
SILCON CHIP’s COMPUTER OMNIBUS
SILCON CHIP’s ELECTRONICS TEST BENCH
ZOOM EFI TECH SPECIAL
SILCON CHIP BINDERS
SILCON CHIP GIANT WALLCHART
TAX INVOICE
Your Name_________________________________________________
PLEASE PRINT
Address ___________________________________________________
___________________________________ Postcode_______________
Daytime Phone No. (______)
__________________________________
STD
Email___________________<at>_________________________________
Cheque/Money Order enclosed
OR
Charge my credit card – Bankcard Visa Card MasterCard
No:
Signature______________________Card expiry date
PLUS P&P (if applic): $...........................
TOTAL$ AU..............................
POST TO: SILICON CHIP Publications, PO Box 139, Collaroy NSW, Australia 2097.
OR CALL (02) 9979 5644 & quote your credit card details; or FAX TO (02) 9979 6503
FEBRUARY
2001 91
ALL TITLES SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY. PRICES VALID FOR MONTH OF MAGAZINE ISSUE
ONLY. ALL PRICES
INCLUDE GST
FEBRUARY 2001 91
Index to Volume 13:
January-December 2000
Features
01/00 4 Protel 99: Much More Than A
PCB Design Tool
01/00 11 Review: B&W Nautilus 801
Monitor Loudspeakers
02/00 4 HiFi Review: Marantz SR-18
Home Theatre Receiver
02/00 10 Review: The "Hot Chip" Starter
Kit
02/00 42 Light Emitting Polymers For
Flat-Screen Displays
03/00 4 Doing A Lazarus On An Old
Computer
03/00 24 Inside An Electronic Washing
Machine
03/00 33 Review: Multisim – For Circuit
Design & Simulation
04/00 6 Review: Jamo Concert 8 Loudspeaker System
04/00 10 How To Run A 3-Phase Induction Motor From 240VAC
04/00 54 Atmel's ICE 200 In-Circuit
Emulator
04/00 76 Mitsubishi's Diamond View
DV180 LCD Monitor
05/00 4 The Smart Electronic Technology Inside A Furby
05/00 34 Dolby Headphone: Five Channels Of Surround Sound
06/00 4 Oooh, Aaaah! - Sony's New
Digital Handycam
06/00 8 Review: PC-Controlled Blood
Pressure Monitor
06/00 77 Review: TiePie Handyprobe
HP2
07/00 4 Say Bye-Bye To Your 12V Car
Battery
07/00 72 Review: Motech MT-4080A
LCR Meter
07/00 80 Review: ADEM Compac II
Security System
08/00 4 Drive By Wire: Electronic Throttle Control; Pt.1
08/00 26 Review: CircuitMaker 2000
Virtual Electronics Lab
08/00 70 Structured Cabling & The Krone MiliLAN
09/00 4 How They're Bringing You The
Games
09/00 26 Network Troubleshooting With
Fluke's NetTool
09/00 62 LA-CRO - A Must-Have For
Students
10/00 4 DrDAQ: It Turns Your PC Into A
Science Lab
10/00 10 Structured Data Cabling For
The Home
92 Silicon Chip
10/00 70 Drive By Wire: Electronic
Throttle Control, Pt.2
10/00 78 Review: Altronic's Aussie-Made PA Amplifiers
11/00 4 Quick Circuit 5000 PC Board
Prototyping System
11/00 10 ShockLog: Monitoring The
Things That Go Bump
11/00 72 Tektronix TDS7504 Digital
Phosphor Oscilloscope
12/00 4 Home Networking For Shared
Internet Access
12/00 26 Review: Agilent 54622D Mixed
Signal Oscilloscope
12/00 78 Vintage Radio Special: Your
First Restoration
Computer Features
01/00 66 Project: Parallel Port Interface
Card
03/00 4 Doing A Lazarus On An Old
Computer
04/00 76 Mitsubishi's Diamond View
DV180 LCD Monitor
06/00 8 Review: PC-Controlled Blood
Pressure Monitor
09/00 26 Network Troubleshooting With
Fluke's NetTool
10/00 4 DrDAQ: It Turns Your PC Into A
Science Lab
12/00 4 Home Networking For Shared
Internet Access
Serviceman’s Log
01/00 18 Philips CR635 TV; Mitsubishi
HS621 VCR; Mitsubishi HSM60 VCR; National M15L TV
02/00 75 Thomson RP46 Projection TV;
Seleco SVT150 Projection TV;
Dual Digital Concept TV4170
TV; Sony KV-X2931S TV
03/00 65 JVC HR-D750EA VCR;
National TC1407 Portable
TV; National NV-H70A VCR;
Mitsubishi CT2584AS TV
04/00 42 Panasonic NV-F70A VCR;
Sony KV-2964AS TV; Sony
KV-C2911D TV
05/00 40 Pentium 133 Computer;
Sherwood Home Theatre RV4070R Amplifier; NEC N3419
TV; Akai CT-21WA9AT; Philips
2SSP1788/75R TV
06/00 38 Akai VS765 VCR; Toshiba Bazooka Model 3408H TV; Teac
MV1480MkII TV/VCR; Panasonic NV-HD100A VCR; Sharp
VC-H85X Hifi VCR
07/00 54 Compaq Presario 4704
Computer; Compaq Armada
1573D Notebook; Panasonic
TC29V26A TV; Grundig ST7075S TV; Philips 33FL1880/75R
Matchline TV; AWA SC6341
(AS630) TV; Panasonic TC29V50A MX-2A
08/00 38 Philips KT3-A3 TV; NEC JC2002VM 5D Monitor; Brionvega TVC 9203 Stratos 2 TV;
Sanyo VHRD-7770M VCR
09/00 38 Philips Matchline 28 DC2070/
20R TV; Philips 20GR102S/
75B TV; NEC N6361 63cm TV
10/00 34 Teac CTM-5928TXT TV; Teac
CT-M488 TV; Sharp VC-H93X
VCR; Grundig GCF404/
CUC2401 TV
11/00 54 Masuda MGV28AV TV; Blaupunkt IS70-33VCT TV; Mitsubishi CT-29ATS(A)TY TV
12/00 60 Philips KS786 TV; Grundig ST
95-775/9 TV; Panasonic NNC855B Microwave Oven; Akai
CT2869AUS TV
Vintage Radio
01/00 74 Building A Vintage Radio
Replica
02/00 82 The Hellier Award; Pt.1
03/00 99 The Hellier Award; Pt.2
04/00 60 The Hellier Award; Pt.3
05/00 64 Making The Obsolete Useful
Again
06/00 53 A Japanese 110V AC/DC Set
07/00 82 The AWA P1 Portable 11-Inch
B/W TV Set
08/00 84 The Astor RQ Lady's Handbag
Radio
09/00 84 HMV's Nippergram: A Classic
1950s Portable Radiogram
10/00 82 A Battery Eliminator & A Simple Servicing Aid
11/00 78 The Intriguing Philips "Philetta"
12/00 78 The AWA 467MA
Circuit Notebook
01/00 78 Battery Charging From A 1V
Or 2V Solar Panel
01/00 78 TTL Decision Maker
01/00 79 Paralleling The Output Of
3-Terminal Regulators
01/00 79 Buffered Virtual Ground Generator
02/00 68 Using A Photo-Interrupter As A
Train Detector
Projects to Build
05/00 16 Building The Ultra-LD Stereo
Amplifier; Pt.2
05/00 56 LED Dice To Build
05/00 72 A Low-Cost AT Keyboard
Translator
05/00 78 50A Motor Speed Controller
For Models
06/00 14 Automatic Rain Gauge With
Digital Readout
06/00 26 Parallel Port VHF FM Receiver
06/00 56 Li'l PowerHouse Switchmode
Power Supply
06/00 62 CD Compressor For Cars Or
The Home
07/00 10 A Home Satellite TV System
07/00 18 A Moving Message Display
07/00 30 Compact Fluorescent Lamp
Driver
07/00 42 El-Cheapo Musician's Lead
Tester
07/00 60 Li'l PowerHouse Switchmode
Power Supply; Pt.2
08/00 16 Build A Theremin For Really
Eerie Sounds
08/00 32 Come In Spinner: Message
Wand
08/00 54 Loudspeaker Protector and
Fan Controller
08/00 62 Proximity Switch For 240VAC
Lamps
09/00 12 Building A Swimming Pool
Alarm
09/00 32 An 8-Channel PC Relay Board
09/00 54 Fuel Mixture Display For Cars;
Pt.1
09/00 69 Protoboards - The Easy Way
Into Electronics: Build A Light
Chaser
09/00 78 Cybug - The Solar Fly
10/00 22 Guitar Jammer For Practice
And Jam Sessions
10/00 28 Booze Buster Breath Tester
10/00 38 Wand-Mounted Inspection
Camera
10/00 53 Installing A Free-Air Subwoofer In Your Car
10/00 60 Protoboards - The Easy Way
Into Electronics: Build A Siren
And Alarm Timer
11/00 66 Fuel Mixture Display For Cars;
Pt.2
11/00 13 Santa And Rudolph Christmas
Display
11/00 30 2-Channel Guitar Preamplifier,
Pt. 1
11/00 60 Message Bank And Missed
Call Alert
11/00 66 Programmable Electronic
Thermostat
11/00 86 Protoboards - The Easy Way
Into Electronics: More Circuits
Based On The 555 Timer
12/00 14 Build A LED Torch
12/00 36 2-Channel Guitar Preamplifier,
Pt. 2: Digital Reverb
12/00 53 Driving An LCD From The
Parallel Port
12/00 68 A Morse Clock
12/00 74 Protoboards - The Easy Way
Into Electronics: The LM393
Dual Comparator
02/00 68 How To Cut Clean Holes In
Plastic Front Panels
02/00 68 Monitor For 12V SLA Batteries
02/00 69 12V Fan Controller For Lower
Noise
02/00 69 Constant Current Load For
Power Supply Testing
03/00 38 PC Printer Port Controls I-V
Curve Tracer
06/00 43 Adding LED Indication To 12V
Trickler Charger
06/00 44 A Speed Controller For
240VAC Universal (BrushType) Motors
06/00 44 Low-Cost Logic Indicator For
PICs
07/00 70 4-Wire Milliohm Tester For
DMMs
07/00 70 Fine & Coarse Power Supply
Control
07/00 70 Constant Voltage Charger
Uses LM317
08/00 78 Soldering Iron Time-Out
Circuit
08/00 78 Split Supply With Low Quiescent Current
08/00 79 Off-Hook Indicator Has Better
Visibility
08/00 79 Mains Power For Battery-Operated Clock
09/00 76 Improved Engine Immobiliser
Uses SCR
09/00 76 A Really Simple Transistor
Tester
09/00 77 Adding A Timer To The NiCd
Discharger
09/00 77 Different Colours From A
Green LED
10/00 58 Opto-Electronic Version Of
High Energy Ignition
11/00 76 Water Level Indicator
11/00 77 Do-It-Yourself Car Battery
Charger
11/00 77 Hi/Lo Pulse Indicator Uses A
7-Segment Display
12/00 34 2-Channel Intercom
12/00 34 Solar System Regulator
03/00 107 Digital Voltmeter For Cars,
February 2000
03/00 107 Remote Modem Controller,
August 1999
07/00 92 RoomGuard Intruder Alarm,
April 2000
07/00 92 LED Dice, May 2000
08/00 91 Simple Superhets, Vintage
Radio, April 2000
08/00 91 Ultra-LD 100W Amplifier,
March & May 2000
08/00 91 Digital Voltmeter For Cars,
February 2000
08/00 91 Low Distortion Audio Signal
Generator, February/March
1999
09/00 91 PC-Controlled VHF FM Receiver, June 2000
09/00 91 40V/1A Adjustable Power
Supply, June/July 2000
09/00 91 Loudspeaker Protector & Fan
Controller, August 2000
10/00 90 Structured Cabling Systems,
August 2000
11/00 93 Opto-Electronic Ignition,
Circuit Notebook, November
2000
12/00 89 50W Amplifier Module, March
1994
01/00 24 Spring Reverberation Module
01/00 38 An Audio-Video Test
Generator
01/00 56 Build The Picman Programmable Robot
01/00 66 Parallel Port Interface Card
01/00 80 Off-Hook Indicator For Telephone Lines
02/00 14 Build A Multi-Sector Sprinkler
Controller
02/00 24 A Digital Voltmeter For Your
Car
02/00 38 An Ultrasonic Parking Radar
02/00 53 Build A Safety Switch Checker
02/00 58 A Sine/Square Wave Oscillator For Your Workbench
03/00 16 Build The Ultra-LD 100W
Amplifier Module; Pt.1
03/00 40 Electronic Wind Vane With 16LED Display
03/00 72 Glowplug Driver For Powered
Models
03/00 86 The OzTrip Car Computer;
Pt.1
03/00 96 A Solution Waiting For A Problem: Aura Interactor Amplifier
04/00 14 A Digital Tachometer For Your
Car
04/00 28 RoomGuard: A Low-Cost
Intruder Alarm
04/00 48 Build A Hot Wire Cutter
04/00 64 The OzTrip Car Computer;
Pt.2
04/00 72 Build A Temperature Logger
Notes & Errata
01/00 93 The PC Powerhouse,
December 1999
02/00 93 Switching Temperature Controller, August 1999
02/00 93 Refinements To The
Computer Monitor Checker,
Circuit Notebook, November
1999
December 2000 93
MARKET CENTRE
Cash in your surplus gear. Advertise it here in Silicon Chip.
FRWEEBE
YES!
Place your classified advertisement in
SILICON CHIP Market Centre and your
advert will also appear FREE in the
Classifieds-on-the-Web page of the
SILICON CHIP website,
www.siliconchip.com.au
And if you include an email address or
your website URL in you classified advert, the
links will be LIVE in your classified-on-the-web!
S!
D
E
I
F
I
S
C LAS
EXCLUSIVE TO SILICON CHIP!
CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING RATES
Advertising rates for this page: Classified ads: $11.00 (incl. GST) for up to 12
words plus 55 cents for each additional word. Display ads: $27.50 (incl. GST) per
column centimetre (max. 10cm). Closing date: five weeks prior to month of sale.
To run your classified ad, print it clearly in the space below or on a separate
sheet of paper, fill out the form & send it with your cheque or credit card details
to: Silicon Chip Classifieds, PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097. Or fax the details
to (02) 9979 6503.
Taxation Invoice ABN 49 003 205 490
_____________ _____________ _____________ _____________ _____________
_____________ _____________ _____________ _____________ _____________
_____________ _____________ _____________ _____________ _____________
_____________ _____________ _____________ _____________ _____________
_____________ _____________ _____________ _____________ _____________
Enclosed is my cheque/money order for $__________ or please debit my
❏ Bankcard ❏
Visa Card ❏ Master Card
Card No.
Signature ________________________ Card expiry date______/______
Name _____________________________________________________
Street _____________________________________________________
Suburb/town _________________________ Postcode______________
94 Silicon Chip
FOR SALE
RAIN BRAIN AND DIGI-TEMP KITS:
8-station sprinkler controllers. New
Digi-temp and Moni-temp use DS1820
sensors. Feature PC data logging, 60
channels over 500 metres.
www.mantismicroproducts.com.au
Only $39 ! VCR Controller use a
std VCR for Surveillance Event Recording Wireless IR Control * 4 Ch
Switchers only ! $79 * COLOUR Bullet
Cameras from $122 * Digital PC 4 Ch
Video Recorder System from $159 *
DOME VIDEO CAMERAS COLOUR
from $77 ! Mono from $53 ! BULLET
from $97 TWO YEAR WARRANTY *
DOME 480 Line 0.05 Lux SONY CCD
& ChipSet from $81 * COLOUR DSP
DOME: 400 Line from $139 * 600 + Line
from $164 * COLOUR DSP PIN in PIR
CASE from $152 * MINI CAMS from
$67 * DSP COLOUR from $133 * PC
REMOTE VIEW, PAGING, WEB-CAM,
DVR System High 768 x 576 Resolution
from $219 * QUAD 1024 H-Pixels from
$175 * COLOUR QUAD only ! $380 *
MULTIPLEXER 4 Ch from $633 * DIY
PLUG-IN 20 metre AV Cables from $20
BLEMISH FREE & LOW BLEMISH
CCDs * UP TO 5 YEARS WARRANTY
* OVERNIGHT DELIVERY * www.
allthings.com.au
RAINBOW POWER COMPANY: Solar
Panels 80W $660, Batteries, Inverters,
Regulators, Rebates available – call
(02) 6689 1430.
COVERT VIDEO SURVEILLANCE Tiny
Sub-Matchbox from ~ 6 grams Wireless
Video & Audio TRANSMITTERS from
$77 * Pinhole Cameras from $67. Easily concealed in: Mobile Phone Case,
Clock, VCR Cassette, Toys, Teddy Bear
(Nanny-Cam), Smoke Detector, Ornament, Cap, Cigarette Pack, etc. www.
allthings.com.au
TELEPHONE EXCHANGE SIMULATOR, SC February 1998. Test equipment without the cost of telephone lines.
Melbourne 9806 0110.
WEATHER STATIONS: Windspeed &
direction, inside temperature, outside
temperature & windchill. Records highs
& lows with time and date as they occur.
Optional rainfall and PC interface. Used
by Government Departments, farmers,
pilots, and weather enthusiasts. Other
models with barometric pressure,
humidity, dew point, solar radiation,
UV, leaf wetness, etc. Just phone, fax
or write for our FREE catalogue and
price list. Solar Flair/Ecowatch phone:
(03) 5968 4863; fax: (03) 5968 5810,
PO Box 18, Emerald, Vic., 3782. ACN
006 399 480.
KITS KITS AND MORE KITS! Check
‘em out at www.ozitronics.com
SEE-in-the-DARK Camera with in-built
IR LEDs in Water Resistant Case for
disturbance-free Baby - Bird - Animal
observation from $147 * DIY Plug-In
20 metre Cable & Plug Pack from $33
* www.allthings.com.au
C COMPILERS: everything you need
to develop C and ASM software for
68HC08, 6809, 68HC11, 68HC12, 68
HC16, 8051/52, 8080/85, 8086, 8096
or AVR: $170.50 each. Macro Cross
Assemblers and Disassemblers for
above CPUs + 6800/01/03/05, 6502
and 68HC12 for $88. Debug monitors:
$88 for 6 CPUs. All compilers, XASMs
and monitors: $5280. 8051/52 Simulator (fast, now incl. 80C320): $88. Try
the C-FLEA Virtual Machine for small
CPUs, build a “C-Stamp”. Demo desk:
FREE. All prices + $5.50 p&p.
Atmel Flash CPU Programmer: Handles the 89Cx051, 89C5x and 89Sxx
series, and some AVRs in both DIP
and PLCC44. Also does most 8-pin
EEPROMs. Includes socket for serial
ISP cable. $220 $11 p&p. SOIC adaptors: 20-pin $99, 14-pin $93.50, 8-pin
$88. Credit cards accepted. GRAN
TRONICS PTY LTD, PO Box 275,
Wentworthville 2145. Ph (02) 9896
7150 or Internet:
http://www.grantronics.com.au
HOME CCTV Mono / Colour PAKS
only ! $119 / $151 Full DIY Plug-In to
TV / VCR 20 metre Cable, Plug Pack &
Camera www.allthings.com.au
RCS HAS MOVED to 41 Arlewis St,
Chester Hill 2162 and is now open, with
full production soon. Tel (02) 9738 0330;
Fax 9738 0334. rcsradio<at>cia.com.au;
www.cia.com.au/rcsradio
ROLA AUSTRALIA
PH/FAX (08) 8270 3175
WEB SITE WWW.BETTANET.NET.AU/GTD
CHECK OUR WEBSITE FOR DETAILS ON KITS AND
COMPONENTS
•
•
•
•
Silvertone’s RC Receiver
Still the best little performer available!
TRANSMITTER KITS AND MODULES
AUDIO MODULES
COMPUTER INTERFACE KITS
RADIO STATION AUDIO SOFTWARE
NEW: Our MP3-CD player in short form for $169 inc GST.
Includes the following: processor board, front panel display
and tactile keypad; just add a case, cables, 12V power supply
and a CD-ROM drive. Play CDs and up to 2600 MP3’s from a
CDR. Great for car or home.
Satellite TV Reception
International satellite
TV reception in your
home is now affordable.
Send for your free info
pack containing equipment catalog, satellite
lists, etc or call for appointment to view.
We can display all satellites from 76.5°
to 180°.
Still only $129.50 AM or $149.50 FM.
May be used with most ppm transmitters. This and many other radio control
products available from:
Silvertone Electronics, PO Box 580,
Riverwood 2210.
Phone/Fax (02) 9533 3517.
www.silvertone.com.au
AV-COMM P/L, 24/9 Powells Rd,
Brookvale, NSW 2100.
Tel: 02 9939 4377 or 9939 4378.
Fax: 9939 4376; www.avcomm.com.au
Positions At Jaycar
We are often looking for enthusiastic staff
for positions in our retail stores and head
office at Rhodes in Sydney. A genuine
interest in electronics is a necessity. Phone
02 9743 5222 for current vacancies.
www.procontechnology.com.au
Fischertechnik robotic kits, interfaces
and Atmel AT90S8535 microcontroller
boards from $66. Starter kits with cables and software, ready to program in
compiled BASIC or assembler from $99.
Design service available. Credit cards
accepted. Phone (03) 98306288.
DIY CCTV PAKS
4 Cameras & Switcher .................$354
as above COLOUR .....................$466
4 Cams, Switcher/Monitor ...........$495
as above 14" Monitor ................$528
4 Cams & QUAD .........................$478
4 COLOUR & QUAD ....................$752
Time-Lapse 24hrVCR $710 with CCTV
Systems 2 Year Warranty !
MORE at: www.allthings.com.au
Fully Plug-In DIY Paks with Cables
& Power Supplies. ALSO PC Digital
Motion / Sound detection & activated
Video / Audio Recording systems 08
9349 9413.
SMD COMPONENTS, Resistor kit, 18
x 50 x 1206 popular values in case <at>
$38.50 inc GST. Capacitor kit, 18 x 50 x
Need prototype PC boards?
We have the solutions – we print electronics!
Four-day turnaround, less if urgent; Artwork from your own
positive or file; Through hole plating; Prompt postal service; 29
years technical experience; Inexpensive; Superb quality.
Printed Electronics, 12A Aristoc Rd,
Glen Waverley, Vic 3150.
Phone: (03) 9545 3722; Fax: (03) 9545 3561
Call Mike Lynch and check us out!
We are the best for low cost, small runs.
1206 popular values in case <at> $88.00
inc GST <at> www.lazer.com.au or call
on 02 93 111 500.
NEW PROFESSIONAL PAN TILT
DOME CAMERA controlled via remote.
SPECIAL PRICE: Colour $680, B&W
$550. To be an agent, or for more info
call GCS sales rep George on 0410
739 317.
FPGA Prototyping Kits: Lowest cost,
easiest to use. Altera, Atmel. Xilinx kit
now with 200,000 gates (!) and free design software! www.BurchED.com.au
LASERS, LIGHTING, SOUND and
other technology surplus equipment
plus general household and office items
at the LASERVISION garage sale.
See www.laservision.com.au, select
“products” then “surplus” to see some of
continued next page
December 2000 95
DON’T MISS
THE ’BUS
Advertising Index
Acorn Icon (Akhurst Calendar)....64
Altronics................................. 66-67
Av-Comm Pty Ltd.........................95
Do you feel left behind by the latest
advances in computer technology? Don’t
miss the bus: get the ’bus!
Includes articles on troubleshooting your
PC, installing and setting up computer
networks, hard disk drive upgrades,
clean installing Windows 98, CPU
upgrades, a basic introduction to Linux
plus much more.
Dick Smith Electronics...... 22-25,77
Price: $12.50 (incl. GST) Order now by using the handy order form in this issue or
call (02) 9979 5644, 8.30-5.30 Mon-Fri with your credit card details.
Investment Technology................31
Direct Components......................21
EMC Technologies.......................86
Evatco..........................................83
Harbuch Electronics....................85
Instant PCBs................................95
Special subscription offer available only while stocks last.
Jaycar ................................... 45-52
Mass Technology.........................86
the items in advance. Enquiries to
info<at>laservision.com.au. Garage sale
Saturday 2/12/00 at 50 Carters Road,
Dural.
Neville Walker (07) 3857 2752 or email
flashdog<at>optusnet.com.au
RICOM – Electronic Components:
LCD screens – from 16x2 characters
to 128x64 graphics with backlighting.
PIC micros – from 12C509 to 16F877.
See our website for full lists & pricing.
www.ricomelectronics.webcentral.com.au
PERSON WITH EXPERIENCE / APTITUDE able to fault find & repair PCBs
– without diagrams. GENEROUS PKG
NEG. Tel John<at>AER (03) 9482 4958
0415 305 470.
QUAD 4 pixs 1 screen from $247 * Real
Time * High better than SUPER-VHS
1024 Pixel Resolution * Time * Date *
Camera Title * Alarm Input / Output *
Remote Camera Selection * FREEZE *
www.allthings.com.au
KIT ASSEMBLY
ANY KITS assembled/repaired:
professional, speedy service. Phone
WANTED
Circuit Ideas Wanted
Do you have a good circuit idea. If
so, sketch it out, write a brief description of its operation & send it to
us. Provided your idea is workable
& original, we’ll publish it in Circuit
Notebook & you’ll make some money.
We pay up to $60 for a good circuit
so send your idea to:
Silicon Chip Publications, PO
Box 139, Collaroy, 2097.
Microgram Computers..........3,OBC
MicroZed Computers...................86
Oatley Electronics........................13
Printed Electronics...................... 95
Questronix...................................86
Rall Electronics............................86
RobotOz......................................86
Rola Australia..............................95
R.T.N..........................................IFC
Satcam........................................73
Silicon Chip Bookshop........... 90-91
SC Computer Omnibus...............96
Sc EFI Tech Special.....................31
SC Electronics Testbench..........IBC
Silicon Chip Subscriptions...........65
HELP SAVE THE NIGHT SKY!
Silvertone Electronics..................95
We are losing our heritage of starry night skies. Poor, inefficient
outdoor lighting is causing glare and “light pollution”. This wastes
energy and increases greenhouse gas emissions.
Solar Flair/Ecowatch....................95
_____________________________
You can help by joining SYDNEY OUTDOOR LIGHTING IMPROVEMENT SOCIETY (SOLIS). SOLIS aims to educate and inform about
quality outdoor lighting and its benefits. We also lobby councils, government and other bodies to promote good lighting practice. SOLIS
meetings are held third Monday night of each month at Sydney Observatory.
Individual membership is $20 pa. Donations are also welcome. Cheques payable
to “SOLIS c/- NSAS”, PO Box 214, West Ryde 2114.
http://sites.netscape.net/solislp/
96 Silicon Chip
PC Boards
Printed circuit boards for SILICON
CHIP projects are made by:
• RCS Radio Pty Ltd. Phone (02)
9738 0330. Fax (02) 9738 0334.
• Marday Services, PO Box 19-189,
Avondale, Auckland, NZ. Phone (09)
828 5730.
December 2000 97
|