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FEBRUARY 2000 1
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
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Contents
Vol.13,
Vol.13, No.2;
No.2; February
February 2000
FEATURES
4 HiFi Review: Marantz SR-18 Home Theatre Receiver
5.1 channels plus Dolby Digital plus THX. And we love the gold finish – by
Leo Simpson
10 Review: The “Hot Chip” Starter Kit
“Hot Chip” Start Kit – Page 10.
An easy way to get started with microcontrollers – by Peter Smith
42 Light Emitting Polymers For Flat-Screen Displays
Imagine a flat-screen display that’s flexible and made out of plastic. That’s the
promise of semiconducting polymers – by Julian Edgar
PROJECTS TO BUILD
14 Build A Multi-Sector Sprinkler Controller
At last: a multi-sector sprinkler controller that’s easy to program – by
Ned Stojadinovic
24 A Digital Voltmeter For Your Car
A PIC microcontroller makes it a snack to build – by John Clarke
Multi-Sector Sprinkler Controller
– Page 14.
38 An Ultrasonic Parking Radar
Build it and avoid those parking mishaps – design by Branco Justic
53 Build A Safety Switch Checker
Simple unit lets you check that each power point is covered. It also verifies
the Earth connection – by John Clarke
58 A Sine/Square Wave Oscillator For Your Workbench
It uses a switched capacitor filter IC to give very good envelope stability
– by Rick Walters
Digital Voltmeter For Cars – Page
24.
SPECIAL COLUMNS
75 Serviceman’s Log
Projection TV from many angles – by the TV Serviceman
82 Vintage Radio
The Hellier Award; Pt.1 – by Rodney Champness
DEPARTMENTS
2
9
68
70
71
Publisher’s Letter
Mailbag
Circuit Notebook
Subscriptions Form
Product Showcase
80
91
93
94
96
Electronics Showcase
Ask Silicon Chip
Notes & Errata
Market Centre
Advertising Index
Build A Safety Switch Checker –
Page 53.
FEBRUARY 2000 1
PUBLISHER’S LETTER
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Production Manager
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Technical Staff
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Rick Walters
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2 Silicon Chip
Use those Safety Switches
for extra protection
This month we feature an RCD Checker
in our line-up of constructional projects. It
is quite a simple unit and won’t take long to
put together. It is the solution to a problem
that we have been concerned about for some
time – how do you do a proper test of an RCD
or Safety Switch, as they are more commonly
referred to? Sure, you can press their self-test
button but that does not simulate the normal
fault condition whereby Active current gets
shunted to the Earth wire.
So the RCD Checker is our answer and we
think it could even become the basis for a standard tester to be included in
any electrician’s toolkit.
That’s all well and good but we are also concerned that many people
(our readers included) still do not use Safety Switches where they are in
hazardous situations. Perhaps the most common situation is where people
are using power tools outdoors and running them from long extension leads.
On building sites it is mandatory to use safety switches but people working
at home are often more at risk, using older and less well-maintained power
tools and often with dodgy extension leads.
That’s bad enough, but the situation with musicians and amateur theatre
groups is often much worse. At least most power tools these days are double-insulated but the equipment used by many bands and musicians is often
quite unsafe. In fact, it is not at all uncommon for musicians to disconnect
the earth on amplifiers to eliminate hum loops. These situations are just
accidents waiting to happen.
Potentially even worse is the situation where people bring their compact
music system out of the house and down by the pool so that they can have
music while they frolic. But frolicking generally means splashing about,
meaning that water can get splashed over the music system. If it does get
splashed, nothing might happen but there is also the possibility that water
finding its way into the equipment might create a leakage path between the
240VAC Active and the exposed metal parts of the case. If that happens,
the appliance could be live and lethal. Paradoxically, that is more likely
if the equipment is “double insulated”, because there will not be an Earth
connection to safely shunt leakage current away.
The more you think about it, Safety Switches are a good idea. While they
won’t necessarily protect people who are stupid, they are good insurance
against unforeseen malfunctions in mains-powered equipment.
If your home does not have a Safety Switch, now is the time to have one or
two fitted. They are relatively inexpensive. Why have two? It is a good idea
to have the power circuits split up with the kitchen and laundry protected
by separate RCDs. That way, if a fault develops in the laundry and trips the
RCD, it won’t kill the power to your fridge and freezer in the kitchen and
possibly cause food spoilage.
And if you often use power tools away from home, it is probably a good
idea to buy a portable Safety Switch as well. What’s the point of being fully
protected at home if you get fried elsewhere?
Leo Simpson
USB Digital Camera
You will be up and running in
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55 Key Programmable POS Keyboard
Top of the line Point of Sale keyboard
featuring very robust construction,
compact size, down loadable key
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the ability to download an entire 55 key template into
internal non-volatile memory in 7 secs!, keyboard wedge
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A number of courses are “Microsoft
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55 Key POS Keyboard
$309
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POS Cash Drawer
POS Cash Drawer - RS232
$209
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POS Customer Display
This POS customer display is driven from the serial port and has a
vacuum fluorescent display with
two lines of 20 characters. It is
ergonomically designed with a
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POS Customer Display
Cat. 8728
$369
Citizen Docket Printers
Hi- Scan Bar Code Readers
High resolution CCD scanners
Citizen printers offer 3 or 3.6
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featuring multi-interface communicalines/sec bi-directional printing,
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$699 Cat. 5694/95 Citizen IDP3420 40 Col Parallel /Serial $530
series for extensions to 24m.
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CCD BC Scanner Long Range KB Stand
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Compact Keyboard
When desk space is at a premium an 80 key keyboard with full 101 key functionality will come in
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Omni-Directional Laser Scanner
Turns your PC into a television with an IR Remote
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Capture still frames & movie clips, channel surf, or Cat. 8521
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create your own TV transcripts.
Cat. 3399
Laser BCR Gun KB Wedge AT or PS/2
Laser BCR Gun Serial
Laser BCR Gun Stand
$469
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Compact 80 Key PS/2
$73
An affordable, vertically mounted, OmniDirectional laser scanner, which is ideally
suited to reading bar coded products at
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300mm.
Bar Code Laser Omni-Direct. KB Wedge
Bar Code Laser Omni-Direct. Serial
$2119
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Cat. 5698/99 Citizen IDP3546 40 Col Parallel / Serial $690
Cat. 5673/74 Citizen IDP3550 40 Col Parallel / Serial $610
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POS Touch Systems & Peripherals
Get ready for GST! Start with a
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Cat. 8755
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Optional add-ons include a magnetic card reader, a magnetic I-Button
POS Cash Drawers
reader with 5 operator keys for
POS cash drawers with robust metal construction casing
security access, an external FDD
and a pearl white ABS fascia with a slip deposit slot. The kit, Customer Display and cash drawers.
bill tray has adjustable dividers for 4 or 5 compartments &
POS Touch System MCR Track 2
Cat. 8756
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spring loaded bill clips. A separate coin tray has adjustable Cat. 8757
Magnetic I-Button Reader /5 keys
$190
dividers for up to 9 compartments. Compatible with Epson, Cat. 8758
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$219
Star & Citizen POS printers.
E & OE All prices include sales tax MICROGRAM 0200
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FEBRUARY 2000 3
SR-18
Home Theatre Receiver
Over the last decade or so it could be said that audio
equipment has not really developed or improved much.
But the increasing emphasis on DVD and home theatre
products has changed all that. There have been some big
strides made recently, as demonstrated in the Marantz
flagship, the SR-18 Home Theatre Receiver.
M
arantz is back! Or rather, the
Marantz styling and cham
pagne finish is back. In the
long decade or so of the dominance
of black as the accepted finish on
high fidelity equipment, owners of
older Marantz “champagne finish”
gear have languished. They loved
their older gear and they were loath
to change over to black. Now the
“dark ages” could be said to be over
and a number of manufacturers are
offering equipment in champagne or
gold finish.
So Marantz should find that this
model SR-18 will sell in big numbers.
Not only does it have the trademark
gold finish but it also has other Marantz styling cues: two big knobs, one
at each end, for input selection and a
large flywheel knob in the centre of
the panel, the so-called Gyro-Touch,
for tuning.
About the only thing missing is
the little blue scope screen for signal
strength and multipath indication.
Maybe Marantz will bring that back in
a future state-of-the-art FM/AM tuner?
Actually, I have to say that while
the various knobs look impressive,
they really are a bit superfluous
these days now that everything is remote-controlled. Apart from initially
turning the unit on, you don’t ever
have to touch the SR-18 in normal
day-to-day use, any more than you
need to touch your TV set to use it –
you just point the remote control at
it and press a button.
And while some people may hanker for the old-style flywheel tuning
for FM and AM stations, it really is a
bit pointless once you have all your
normal stations programmed in.
Where it is good is when you are
occasionally tuning across the dial
looking for all those other stations. In
fact, if you live within about 200km of
Sydney or Melbourne and you have a
sensitive tuner, it really is surprising
just how many stations are dotted
along the FM band.
It is at those times when you want
to listen to radio but you don’t like the
current fare from any of your usual
stations that the Marantz flywheel
tuning knob comes into its own.
You can creep along (in 50kHz
steps – it is still full digital tuning) or
whirl from one end to the other in a
flash, something you can’t do in conventional FM tuners with synthesised
tuning. And it makes the process of
tuning and storing stations simpler.
Marantz has kept the front panel
clean and uncluttered but has a large
drop-down door which reveals no
less than 22 push-buttons, the stereo
headphone socket and auxiliary inputs for a video camera or camcorder.
We don’t have the space to mention
all 22 buttons or indeed the endless
features of this complex receiver but
we’ll touch on some of them as we
proceed.
The SR-18 front panel also has the
obligatory vacuum fluorescent dot matrix display to indicate all the operating modes but for a variety of reasons
it is less effective than it otherwise
could be. For example, it apparently
does not have enough characters accessible, so that, when indicating CD
Direct mode, it displays “CD-DIRCT”
and yet it can also display “THX CINEMA” which requires more characters
(ten, including spaces).
In a large room, when you are
sitting quite some distance away, the
display is not all that readable but
again, that is not really that important
because the remote control handpiece,
which we’ll come to in a moment, is
very comprehensive and has its own
LCD panel. In any case, you can always resort to the on-screen display
which works in the same way as for
DVD players and late-model VCRs.
While there is little clutter on the
front panel there is plenty on the rear
panel. This is inevitable on any large
receiver and more so on a home thea-
Review by LEO SIMPSON
4 Silicon Chip
The big Marantz SR-18 has virtually all features
controllable via its equally large remote control.
All those button light up each time one is pressed.
The drop down door on the front panel (inset
right) reveals the headphone socket and the 22
buttons for a range of functions including the tone
controls. Note the Aux inputs (and S-video socket)
for easy connection of a camcorder. Long-time
Marantz fans will love the flywheel tuning knob.
tre receiver which caters for so many
operating modes: Dolby surround,
Dolby Digital (AC-3),THX Cinema and
DTS (Digital Theatre Systems).
Hence, there is a large array of RCA
sockets for all the program sources,
including the video inputs from
DVD, VCRs, TV (presumably cable
or Pay-TV decoder boxes) and laser
disc players. These are accompanied
by S-video and optical fibre sockets
where applicable.
There are also quite a few audio and
video outputs and there is no getting
away from the fact that any home theatre receiver or amplifier must do a lot
of video switching. How they manage
it without any sign of video or sync
buzz breakthrough must be a story in
itself but it is routinely achieved in
all of these products.
We really did like the large binding post terminals for the five power
amplifier outputs (did we mention
that it was a fully Dolby surround
receiver with the usual 5.1 output
channels: front left & right, centre, two
rear and the sub-woofer line output?).
These binding post terminals are fully
shrouded and are reasonably spaced
so that connecting up thick speaker
cables is easier than it is on a lot of
other surround sound systems – on
some, it can be a real chore.
Inside the SR-18 is a labyrinth of
PC boards which you would expect
from its operational complexity but
even so, it does appear as though it
would be relatively straightforward
to disassemble and service.
All the PC boards are single-sided,
with lots of wire links, which is the
usual approach for consumer products designed and made in Japan. That
approach also makes for much easier
servicing when the time comes!
Another good point is that a great
deal of the circuitry appears to rely
on discrete semiconductors and
there is not so much in the way of
surface-mount components – another
plus.
The power supply features a very
large toroidal transformer which must
be rated at well over 1kVA. It is accompanied by two large filter capacitors
which feed all five power amplifiers.
The filter capacitors are 56000µF at
71V which seems like an odd voltage
rating but that’s what it is. Obviously
the main DC supply rails must be in
the vicinity of ±70V which would
be necessary for power amplifiers of
this rating.
As with a number of other high
power surround sound amplifiers
we have seen, the SR-18 has the five
power amplifiers around a tunnel
heatsink assembly with a thermostatically-controlled fan at one end. This
fan would also cool some of the power
supply components such as the bridge
rectifier which has its own heatsink.
Each power amplifier has just two
very large bipolar transistors in plastic
encapsulation. We have remarked on
the size of these power transistors in
a previous review but they never fail
to impress. In the Marantz receiver
they have also managed to work some
technical magic because the overall
distortion level is very low, as we shall
see. Perhaps part of this is due to a
circuit feature of the Marantz SR-18,
their so-called HD-AM PC board. This
stands for “high definition amplifier
module” and there are two visible in
FEBRUARY 2000 5
Inside the Marantz SR-18. The toroidal transformer is a whopper. The HD-AM PC board with their copper
shields can be seen in the centre of the picture.
the internal photo. We have not been
able to find out anything about them
apart from the fact they are discrete
preamplifier stages used instead of
op amp ICs.
Remote control handpiece
There are remote controls and there
are remote controls!
This one must be one of the largest
we have come across and it is also one
of the most impressive. While it does
have quite a few buttons there are not
so many that you would shrink from
6 Silicon Chip
it as being too complex. They are also
legibly marked which makes a nice
change and to top it off, they are all
illuminated for a few seconds, each
time a button is pressed. You can vary
the time of illumination, by the way.
Button illumination is highly desirable in a home theatre’s remote control
because it is a fair assumption that it
will often be used in a darkened room.
Mind you, it should be possible to
temporarily turn the illumination off
and save the batteries as it will also
often be used in normally lit rooms.
Note that it is possible to turn off the
illumination entirely but then you
presumably have to go through the
routine to turn it on again.
By the way, under normal usage,
the four AA cells can be expected to
last about four months but that really
does depend on how long you have
the illumination set for.
A major feature of the remote control is the LCD panel which is backlit
every time the buttons are illuminated. Our photo shows the CD source
selected and there are a bunch of
buttons down both sides of the screen
which can select various features. In
This side view of the chassis shows the heatsink tunnel for
the five power amplifiers. The fan is at the other end and
also provides cooling for the power supply components.
fact, with each program source there are normally four
screens (or menus) of commands which can be accessed.
Furthermore, it is a “learning” remote so it can take the
place of the remote controls of all your audio and video
program sources and as can be seen there are buttons for
controlling CD players, VCRs, DVDs, TV tuners, FM/AM
tuners and you name it. The SR-18’s remote can also use
“macros” which let it store and carry out a series of control
functions. This is a desirable feature, say, if you want to
turn on all the equipment and make settings to watch a
DVD movie or cable television program.
In fact, as you learn about the features of the remote
control and read about it in the owner’s manual you start
to realise just how complex and how capable the Marantz
SR-18 is. In reality we think that there are not a lot of owners
who will fully comprehend all the features and thought that
has gone into this top-of-the-line home theatre receiver.
One point that could be improved is the range of the
remote. This is stated as five metres and within an angle of
60° and in a fairly large room it is not enough, particularly
since other ordinary remotes have no problem and can even
work by bouncing off the walls.
OK, so the remote does virtually everything except bring
you chips and a drink (Toohey’s Red thanks, in a glass) but
I still had some difficulties getting the machine to do what I
wanted. For example, I could not get it to work with my CD
player until I realised that you had to select analog (instead
of digital) mode with the A/D button behind that aforesaid
door in the front panel. To give it its due, it did try to tell
me by flashing “no data” on the front panel but I had to
read the manual several times before realisation dawned.
On the other hand, it did not take long for us to realise
that the SR-18 gave its best sound quality when switched
to “Source Direct” which bypasses the tone control stages
and presumably other signal processing.
Another interesting touch is that when you connect an
audio source to the Aux input sockets on the front panel,
the SR-18 applies a steep bass cut below 100Hz. We found
this out during our measurements. It probably is a good
feature to minimise hum when you are connecting a video
camcorder but we could find no mention of it at all in the
owner’s manual.
In fact, let us have a moan about the manual. It is nowhere
Fig.1: frequency response of the power amplifiers taken
at 1 watt into 8Ω. This is taken in Direct mode which
bypasses the tone controls.
Fig.2: total harmonic distortion versus power at 1kHz
with the two front channels driven. Maximum power
is 185 watts at the onset of clipping.
Fig.3: total harmonic distortion versus frequency at a
power of 100 watts per channel into 8Ω (Measured with
a bandwidth of 20Hz to 80kHz). Note that there is no
rise in the figure at frequencies above 5kHz. This is an
excellent result.
FEBRUARY 2000 7
near comprehensive enough – a complaint that can probably be directed
at the manuals for all home theatre
products. In fact, while the manual is
in English and Japanese, it only has
35 pages to describe all the features in
English. Just how inadequate that is
becomes clear when you compare it to
the owner’s manual for a typical car.
My new car’s manual has 350 pages
and yet it does not make any attempt
to describe functions which are as
complex and varied as those possible
with the Marantz SR-18.
So far then, we have really only
touched upon some of the features
of the big Marantz. We have not
mentioned how each program source
can be set up, how the time delays
for the speakers are set, how the FM
and AM tuners are programmed, the
multi-room/multi-source capability,
the 96kHz/24-bit decoding for DVDs
and so on. We can’t hope to devote
enough space for the all features so
let us just acknowledge that this is a
necessarily brief review.
So how did it perform?
We first put it though a battery of
audio tests and even here we were
pretty selective, testing only the stereo
performance of the front channels. All
five channels are identical so it can be
assumed that the stereo performance
is repeated for all channels.
The SR-18 is rated to deliver 140W
per channel into 8Ω loads with all
five channels driven simultaneously.
Alternatively, it is rated for 200W into
6Ω loads under the same conditions.
4Ω loads are not specified and so we
did not test for this condition. Rated
harmonic distortion is .05% and signal to noise ratio is 105dB. Frequency
response is rated as within 2dB from
10Hz to 50kHz.
This rear view of
the SR-18 shows
the complexity
of a typical large
home theatre
receiver catering
for a very large
range of inputs.
Note the large
well-paced
speaker binding
posts. They are
fully shrouded to
reduce the risk of
stray wires
causing shorts.
8 Silicon Chip
A close-up view of the large remote
control. Each program source has a
number of screens with all sorts of
functions which can be selected.
Fig.1 shows the frequency response
of the SR-18 and it is about 0.5dB
down at 10Hz and 2dB down at about
58kHz, so it comfortably meets the
specification (as it does on every other
measurement we made).
Fig.2 shows the distortion versus
per output and as can be seen, the
onset of clipping (where the graph
suddenly takes a steep rise) is about
185W. This was taken with both front
channels driven.
Under these conditions the top of
the cabinet became quite hot but as far
as we could tell, the internal fan did
not cut in. It was silent during all our
testing and listening sessions.
Fig.3 is the standout performance
graph and it shows that Marantz have
done something special with their
amplifiers. It shows the distortion
versus frequency for both front amplifiers and as can be seen, it is virtually
constant right across the range from
20Hz to 20kHz. The reading is close to
.01%. How do they avoid the usually
unavoidable rise as the frequency goes
above 5kHz? We would love to know.
That is one of the best performances
we have ever seen, for any amplifier
or receiver.
Signal to noise ratio measurements
came in right on the button, at 105dB
unweighted (from 20Hz to 22kHz).
Listening tests confirm that the Marantz SR-18 is a very fine performer. It
has bags of power, and dare we say it,
far more than virtually anyone would
ever need. It is very clean (particularly
in Direct mode) and once you work out
how to drive it, it is very satisfying.
It is expensive but when you consider all the technology and power
output housed within its covers, it is
fairly priced at $4990.
Oh, and you can buy it in black, if
you really must.
For further information, contact the
Australian distributors for Marantz
products, Jamo Australia Pty Ltd by
phoning (03) 9543 1522; email info<at>
SC
marantz.com.au
MAILBAG
AC voltages
more dangerous
I wish to bring to your notice
a boo-boo in the November 1999
Mailbag letter from Jonathon
Waller. He maintains that the
danger from a DC electric shock
is greater than a shock from the
same voltage on AC. He goes on to
say that this is because AC tends
to throw the person away, while
DC tends to paralyse the muscles,
making it difficult for the victim to
escape the shock.
Now this is a very dangerous
boo-boo because it is the exact
opposite: DC tends to throw the
person off or away and AC paralyses the victim.
Please check on this and you will
find I am correct. Now don’t get me
wrong; they are both dangerous
but AC is more so. Having been
brought up on DC power supplies
and having had a belt or two from
DC, if it has been AC possibly I
would not be here today.
The other item I would like to
comment on refers to the use of
alternative power when connected
to the grid and there is a power
failure. Do as most rural families
do: invest about $1200 - $1400 on
a 5kVA engine-driven power plant
and you can run the full house from
it. Rural areas do have quite a few
blackouts, sometimes for days, and
the 5kVA plant is the most practical
alternative.
Keith Lang,
Esperance WA.
Solar regulators
not expensive
I read with great interest your
feature on a solar panel regulator in
the December 1999 issue of SILICON
CHIP. Although I get great pleasure
from constructing kits myself, I
feel that this project needs some
consideration. I wish to point out
a few things mentioned in your
article that need highlighting.
First, the article says that solar
regulators are expensive. This is
NOT true. The cost of a solar regulator is only a very small part of
the overall system cost. Take for example the BP solar panel featured
in the article, with a recommended
retail price of $795. Although we
sell many of these panels, a system
usually consists of several of these
and sometimes more than a dozen
or so. This is expensive indeed, not
to mention the cost of quality battery storage, which can be around
the same.
Secondly, 5A current capability
is all but useless except for the
hobbyist, which is probably who
you are targeting anyway.
Thirdly, there are no current
draw figures for the featured regulator. By using a relay, I guess that
it is reasonably high, compared to
commercially available units. The
reason I say this is because when
using solar energy, especially on
small systems, such as this regulator would have been designed for,
you need to be aware of ALL loads,
including the regulator.
For example, if the regulator is
drawing 100mA on standby, this
will equate to 2.4 Amp-hours per
day (24 hours) at 12V. This will
require a 12W solar panel just to
provide the power to run the regulator during winter, not to mention
the relay as well. This could be an
expensive regulator if extra power
is needed to run it.
Fourth, the regulator provides no
equalisation charging, which is required for any system using multiple wet/flooded cells (ie, more than
2V – a 12V battery has six cells).
Equalisation charging is required
because when cells are discharged
and recharged repetitively, they
must be slightly over-charged to
equalise all cells. This will prolong
the battery life substantially. Also
quality deep-cycle batteries should
be charged at 14.1V, not 13.9V as
this regulator does, to prolong
their life. However, if used with
SLA batteries, this regulator will
work OK.
Fifth, always check with the
battery manufacturer concern
ing
their required charging characteristics, as you may void the battery
warranty if you are not charging
correctly. This should have been
explained at the start of the feature, as some companies will not
warrant batteries unless they are
charged with anything but a quality
regulator/charger. I believe this to
be very important.
The solar regulator could easily have the current increased, if
the user does not wish to use the
current reading capability of the
display, by increasing the relay’s
rating and why not use the excess
power from the panel/s to do
something else, such as run a pond
pump or charge a second battery,
by removing R1 and dumping the
solar power to an outside device,
rather than just burning it off with
a resistor. You would need a diode
in series with the solar panel if
charging another battery though, as
the second battery may discharge
back through the solar array overnight, as well as requiring another
regulator.
Another idea: why not make it
suitable for charging 32V or even
48V systems, by increasing C10’s
voltage rating, and putting in an
over-voltage circuit before REG1,
using a 47kΩ or 51kΩ resistor (for
48V or 33kΩ for 32V) in place of
R5 or R6 and upgrading any other component that may need its
voltage rating upgraded (I haven’t
looked at it too closely).
The most used solar regulator by us would have to be the
P1.20 or P1.40, manufactured
by Plasmatronics, in Melbourne.
They consume as little as 8mA,
will switch up to 40A current and
are programmable with up to fourstage charging, with adjustable set
points and time.
They retail for $245 (20A model)
and $345 (40A model) plus tax if
applicable, so these are not expensive after all, considering the
features.
K & C Stork,
Solar Power Consultants,
Bacchus Marsh, Vic.
FEBRUARY 2000 9
Review by Peter Smith
HOT CHIP?
Do you want a
drink with that?
Are you currently learning about microcontrollers?
Thinking about a project that has real potential?
Need to do something more than flash a LED or sound a
buzzer? The “Hot Chip Starter Kit” is worth a close look.
This new micro kit from Dick Smith Electronics will
interest both the beginner and expert alike. Beginners will
find that they can write and test a simple program, using
the BASIC programming language, within an hour or two of
connecting it up. Experts will like the power and flexibility
of the Atmel microcontroller, as well as the ease with which
the little Hot Chip board can be “designed-in” to a project.
What’s in the box?
The Hot Chip Starter Kit includes just about everything
you need to get up and experimenting right away. On the
hardware side, there’s a pre-assembled microcontroller PC
board with both parallel and serial cables for connection to
your PC. Software on CD-ROM for Windows 3.1,
Windows 95 and Windows 98 is included,
and features an Assembler, BASIC compiler and in-system programmer.
What is a microcontroller? A microcontroller integrates
a microprocessor core with key peripherals such as RAM,
ROM, I/O ports, counter/timers, serial ports, A-D converters,
etc – all on a single chip.
The kit uses the AT90S8535 microcontroller IC, one of the latest and greatest from Atmel
Corporation.
8KB of program (“Flash”) memory, 512 bytes of non-volatile data
Hardware
The Hot
Chip PC board
measures just 20
x 70mm but using surface mount
components and a
powerful microcontroller, it packs an
incredible amount of
functions into a small
space.
10 Silicon Chip
memory
(EEPROM) and
512 bytes of RAM are all
included on-chip.
The program memory can be electrically
erased and reprogrammed up to 1,000 times (throw
away that old EPROM programmer!), whereas the
EEPROM can be reprogrammed up to 100,000 times.
Using the in-system programming (ISP) features of
“Hot Chip” Microcontroller Starter Kit from DSE
the microcontroller, the Hot Chip software can erase and
reprogram both program and data memory via your PC’s
parallel port, all in a matter of seconds.
Table 1 lists all the major features of this little powerhouse. Further information can be downloaded from the
Atmel web site at www.atmel.com – look under the “AVR
8-bit RISC” Microcontrollers section. (As a matter of interest,
we used a similar, though smaller, Atmel microcontroller
IC back in the November 1999 issue to control our LED
Christmas Tree project).
So far we’ve only talked about the microcontroller chip
itself, but the Hot Chip PC board includes a number of
other components to make it easier to use “out of the box”.
DC power between 9 and 12V is supplied to the board via
a 2-pin connector. This supply is regulated and filtered to
5V. The kit includes a power cable for connection to a 9V
battery (it draws only 30mA), but any DC supply within
the specified range could be used. A series diode provides
polarity protection at the input.
Power-on reset and brownout (low voltage) protection
is provided for the microcontroller and a 32kHz crystal
has been included to make it easy to set up a “real time”
clock.
A Maxim RS-232 IC converts the microcontroller’s serial
port signals to RS232 levels, which are then made available
on a 10-pin connector. A cable is supplied with the kit for
connection to COM1, 2, 3 or 4 on your PC. (Your computer
only has COM 1 and 2 and both are used? Have a look at
your PC’s instruction manual – you’ll almost certainly find
that COM 3 and 4 are also available.)
As mentioned above, programming the microcontroller’s
memory is performed via your PC’s parallel (LPT) port.
All hardware support for this feature is provided within
the microcontroller chip itself, with the necessary signals
brought out to a 5-pin connector via current-limiting resistors. A cable is supplied with the kit for connection to
either LPT1 or LPT2 on your PC. Similarly to COM ports,
many computers only have LPT1 brought to an outside
Table 1: AT90S8535 Microcontroller Features
• AVR ® - High-performance and Low-power RISC Architecture
– 118 powerful instructions – most single clock cycle execution
– 32 x 8-bit general purpose working registers
– Up to 8 MIPS (Millions of Instructions Per Second) throughput at 8 MHz
• Data and Non-volatile Program Memories
– 8K Bytes of in-system programmable flash memory SPI serial interface for in-system programming
endurance: 1,000 Write/Erase Cycles
– 512 Bytes EEPROM endurance: 100,000 write/erase cycles
– 512 Bytes internal SRAM
– Programming lock for software security
• Peripheral Features
– 8-channel, 10-bit A-D converter
– Programmable UART (Universal Asynchronous Receiver and Transmitter) (Serial Port)
– Two 8-bit timer/counters with separate prescaler and compare mode
– One 16-bit timer/counter with separate prescaler, compare and capture modes and dual 8-bit,
9-bit, or 10-bit PWM
– Programmable watchdog timer with on-chip oscillator
– On-chip analog comparator
• Special Microcontroller Features
– Power-on reset circuit
– Real Time Clock (RTC) with separate oscillator and counter mode
– External and internal interrupt sources
– Three sleep modes: idle, power save, and power down
• Power Consumption at 4 MHz, 3V, 20°C
– Active: 6.4 mA
– Idle mode: 1.9 mA
– Power down mode: <1µA
• I/O and Packages
– 32 Programmable I/O lines
– 40-pin PDIP, 44-pin PLCC and 44-pin TQFP (Hot Chip uses 44-pin TQFP package)
• Operating Voltages
–VCC: 4.0 - 6.0V AT90S8535 (Hot Chip uses +5.0V)
–VCC: 2.7 - 6.0V AT90LS8535
• Speed Grades:
– 0-8MHz AT90S8535 (Hot Chip speed is 8MHz)
– 0-4MHz AT90LS8535
FEBRUARY 2000 11
What’s in the box? The Hot Chip Starter Kit
includes just about everything you need to get up
and experimenting right away: a pre-assembled
microcontroller PC board with both parallel and
serial cables for connection to your PC. There’s
also software on CD-ROM for Windows 3.1,
Windows 95 and Windows 98 which features
an Assembler, BASIC compiler and in-system
programmer.
wouldn’t recommend extending the parallel cable
as programming errors may result.
Design-in
The Hot Chip PC board has two rows of 20 pads
that provide convenient access to all microcontroller pins. It’s no accident that these pads have
the same spacing as a 40-pin IC! If two 20-way SIL
(single in-line) pin headers are installed, the board
can be plugged into a 40-pin IC socket as part of
a larger project. Does it get any easier than this?
Alternatively, if you want to use the board in
“stand-alone” mode, you can do that too. Individual pins or stakes can be soldered into whichever
pads you desire – loose pins are provided with
the kit.
The Hot Chip on-line documentation includes a
circuit diagram and PCB layout that can be printed
for ease of reference.
Software
socket at time of manufacture (to save a few cents!). As
most printers are hooked up to LPT1, you’ll find it much
more convenient to use LPT2 if it is available. Again, check
your PC operating manual.
The parallel cable supplied is only 80cm in length and
the serial cable is even shorter, so you’ll need to position
the Hot Chip PC board right next to your PC. Although
you could easily extend the serial cable without problems
(simply use an appropriate male/female serial cable), we
Software for Windows 3.1x, 95 and 98 is provided on CD-ROM, along with a complete technical
manual for the AT90S8535 microcontroller in
Windows help file format.
The software consists of several major components, all of which are accessible from a simple to
use graphical interface called “Debug ABC” ( Fig.1).
Programs are entered using any text editor (Fig.3). Windows Notepad is preferable to using your normal word
processor: most word processing programs can be a trap for
young players, especially if you forget to save in text-only
mode. Most word processors embed codes in your text
which are invisible to you – but not the software!
By the way, if you don’t already have a good text editor,
we suggest giving Programmers File Editor (PFE) a try. It
is available for free download from www.simtel.net/pub/
Fig.1: all software functions are accessible from the main
window.
Fig.2: likewise, all preferences are easily set from a
sub-window.
12 Silicon Chip
simtelnet/win95/editor/pfe101i.zip
Programs can be written in BASIC or Assembly language (or both). Before BASIC programs are ready to run
they must go through a two-step process. First, the BASIC
compiler converts (compiles) the program into lower-level
(but functionally equivalent) instructions in Assembly
language (Fig.4).
Then the Assembler translates these instructions into
machine code (binary) format (Fig.5), ready for programming into the microcontroller’s Flash memory.
If you’re familiar with BASIC programming, you’ll find
most of the syntax quite familiar. Even if you’re not, one
of the best things about BASIC is that you will have your
first program up and running in quick time.
Note that although compiled BASIC programs are notorious for their slow execution speeds, the Atmel AVR
series of microcontrollers are specifically tuned for running
compiled code (‘C’ in particular but we can’t see why this
wouldn’t apply to BASIC as well).
So unless you have a time-critical application that requires microsecond accuracy, you will probably find that
BASIC does the job just fine.
Once you have a program that you are ready to commit
to memory, it’s simply a matter of clicking the Erase button,
then the Program button to write it to the microcontroller’s
Flash memory (Fig.1). Support is also provided to enable
reading and writing of EEPROM memory, either as individual bytes or from data stored in a file.
Once programming is complete, execution begins when
you click on the UNreset button, releasing the microcontroller’s reset line.
If your program reads and/or writes to the microcontroller’s serial port (UART), you can ‘talk’ to it via the
serial communications module (Fig.6). Once again, this is
accessible from the main (Debug ABC) window. This is of
course the purpose of the serial cable connecting the Hot
Chip board to the PC’s COM port.
Fig.3: both BASIC and Assembler programs are entered
using your favourite text editor. The default editor is
Windows Notepad but this can be changed in the
Preferences dialog box.
Fig.4: clicking on the Assemble button launches the
Compiler. Any errors that are detected are displayed along
with the line number that generated them.
Summary
The only negative comment about the kit is that the
software lacks any kind of real debugging tools or support
for industry-standard tools such as those found in AVR
Studio. If you need to do any serious debugging, you’re
on your own…
Nevertheless, we think that the low cost, power and
versatility of the Hot Chip Starter Kit makes it an excellent
SC
choice for students, hobbyists and professionals.
Fig.5: the output from the compiler is automatically passed
to the Assembler, which produces the binary file ready for
programming into the microcontroller.
Where do you get it?
The Hot Chip Starter Kit is available through all
Dick Smith Electronics stores (including the
PowerHouse stores), most DSE resellers and through
the DSE “direct link” mail order/internet order service
(www.dse.com.au; Freecall 1300 366 644). Retail price
is $129 (plus p&p if not purchased over-the-counter).
The Hot Chip system was developed by
Investment Technologies Pty Ltd. You can visit
their website at www.hawknet.com.au/~invtech
Fig.6: the simple demo program we wrote in Fig.3,
compiled in Fig.4 and assembled in Fig.5 is now “talking”
to the PC via the COM1 port.
FEBRUARY 2000 13
SPRINKLER
CONTROLLER
Multi-sector sprinkler
controllers don’t have to be
difficult to drive. This unit
controls up to six sectors,
has an easy-to-set clock
and is programmed
using simple switches
and knobs. It’s also
based on a PIC
microcontroller and that
means relatively few parts.
By NED STOJADINOVIC
14 Silicon Chip
T
HEY SAY THAT necessity is the
mother of invention but this
invention was necessitated by
my mother.
Although the sprinkler timers
currently available are wonders of
modern technology, they can be rather formidable to operate. Alternate
cycles, independently programmable sectors, the ability to set times
months in advance and the like are all
excellent features for those who want
them. However, the extra complication can be a serious barrier to those
who simply want to regularly water
the lawn and a vegie patch a couple
of times a day.
This completely new design is the
answer to this problem. It’s a timer
that avoids programming as much
as possible and is controlled by old
fashioned switches and knobs, just the
way mum and people of her generation (and some of mine) like it.
Despite this, the timer is capable of
controlling six independent solenoids
(or sectors). You can individually set
the watering period for each sector,
turn individual sectors on or off and
set which days watering takes place.
The design uses a fairly new and
quite high-powered piece of technology in the form of a PIC16C74A
micro
con
troller. This device packs
in a tremendous amount of complexity where nobody ever has to see it
and greatly simplifies the external
circuitry. And that allows us to keep
the cost down.
Operation
Naturally, there is some programming to be done and this involves first
setting the clock and the watering start
times. You can set two watering start
times per day, typically one for early
morning and one for late afternoon.
This is very easy to do, as we shall
see later on. If you can set the time
on a digital clock, you will have no
problems because the operation is
self-evident.
The watering duration is controlled
by a row of six knobs, each corresponding to a sector. For those not
familiar with the terminology, a sector
is an area controlled by an electrically-operated water valve, commonly
called a “solenoid”. Sector 1 might
be your front lawn, sector 2 a garden
bed, sector 3 the vegie patch and so on.
Each knob can set the watering
duration of its sector from a few min-
It’s pretty much self-evident how you drive this Sprinkler Controller. Once the
two watering start times have been set (on the LCD clock), you use the knobs to
set the watering duration for each sector (0-60 minutes) and the toggle switches
to set the days of the week that watering takes place.
utes to about one hour. Furthermore,
turning the knob fully anticlockwise
means that the corresponding sector
will be off and no watering will take
place. Similarly, turning it fully on
(clockwise) turns that solenoid on
continuously.
The seven toggle switches (one for
every day of the week) allow you to
choose the days that watering takes
place. This is handy if you only want
to water on alternate days, for example, or to comply with any council regulations which may restrict watering
to certain days of the week. Flicking
a switch off means that there will be
no watering at all on that day.
An important point to note is that
the sectors operate sequentially;
ie, only one sector is on at a given
Main Features
•
•
•
•
Controls up to six 24V AC water solenoids (ie, six sectors).
•
•
•
Individual sectors can be turned fully off or on.
Easy-to-set LCD clock with two watering start times per day.
Toggle switches for day of week selection.
Sector times independently variable from 0-60 minutes using rotary
controls.
Sectors are turned on sequentially to ensure adequate water pressure.
Backup battery maintains settings during short-term power
interruptions.
FFEBRUARY
ebruary 2000 15
16 Silicon Chip
time. In operation, Sector 1 starts at
the preset time(s) and completes its
watering period before switching off
and allowing Sector 2 to start. Sector
2 then completes its watering period,
after which Sector 3 starts and so on
until all sectors have been stepped
through.
In practice, this means that if all six
sectors have been set to 30 minutes
(say), the total watering time will be
three hours.
The reason this has been done is
that, depending on the installation,
there may not be enough capacity in
the water lines to run all sectors simultaneously. Operating them one at a
time ensures that each sector operates
with good water pressure.
Where To Buy A Kit Of Parts
Parts for this design are available from the author, as follows:
(1) PC board plus all on-board parts (includes LCD module, programmed
microcontroller and switches but not the battery, optional fuseholder or
optional reset switch) .....................................................................$125.00
(2) Programmed microcontroller .......................................................$45
(3) Plastic case and front panel .........................................................$50
All prices include postage. Payment by cheque or money order only to: Ned
Stojadinovic, 23 Harricks Crescent, Monash, ACT 2904.
Email: vladimir<at>u030.aone.net.au
Note 1: 24V AC plugpack power supplies are available from garden supply
shops or from Altronics (Cat. M9714).
Note 2: copyright for the PC board and microcontroller program associated
with this design is retained by the author.
Circuit description
Fig.1 shows the circuit details of the
Programmable Sprinkler Controller.
It’s all built around the PIC16C74A
microcontroller (IC1).
The PIC16C74A is a very capable
chip which allows the elimination of a
great deal of support circuitry such as
A/D converters, serial transmitter/receivers, clock generators and buffers,
etc. Indeed, there is so much packed
into it that you might like to download
the data on this device from Arizona
Microchip and study it carefully when
reading this article.
Don’t be too dismayed at the seeming complexity of the chip. It’s true
that there are so many functions that
the pins are almost all multiplexed
but once the desired function is
programmed into the appropriate
registers, they all work the same way
as simpler devices.
A/D converter
The first really useful function is
the 8-channel A/D converter. In this
design, six channels are used to read
the voltage on pots VR1-VR6. The
microcontroller converts each voltage
to a number ranging between 0 and
255 and the values from 0-240 are
Fig.1 (left): a PIC16C74A microcontroller forms the basis of the
circuit. This takes its inputs from the
sector pots and the day switches and
sequentially activates power Triacs
via MOC3021 optoisolators. The PIC
microcontroller also drives a 2-line
LCD which displays the time and the
watering start times.
then divided by four to give values of
0-60 which are loaded into a minutes
counter. The values between 240 and
254 are used as a buffer zone, as 255
tells the microcontroller to turn that
sector on continuously.
Note that I didn’t have to do anything similar at the zero time end as
I found that all pots apparently drop
to zero resistance long before they get
to the end of their travel.
By the way, the data sheet shows
that there is only one A/D converter
in the PIC16C74A and this is multi
plexed eight ways by appropriately
selecting the converter’s control register. The speed of the microcontroller
means that we effectively have eight
converters but it does have the limitation that you cannot do all eight
conversions at once, such as might
be required when doing high speed
data processing.
Port B internal pull-ups
PIC processors are CMOS devices
and so have a high resistance looking
into their input pins. This means that
stray static electricity can switch the
pins rapidly from high to low and back
again, which can cause the inputs to
overheat.
To counteract this problem, it’s
standard practice to “tie” any unused
inputs to either ground or Vcc (in
this case +5V) via a reasonably large
resistor; eg, 10kΩ. However, the PICs
can do this internally and configuring
the Port B pins as inputs ties each to
+5V via its own 200kΩ resistor.
Switches S1-S7 take advantage of
these internal pull-ups by simply
isolating the Port B input pins when
the switches are open, leaving the
corresponding inputs at +5V (logic
high). Closing each switch grounds
the pins through a common 250Ω
resistor, forcing them to a logic low.
Why include the 250Ω resistor?
Well, it’s like this: the ports on a PIC
can be configured as either inputs or
outputs. As inputs, they look like high
resistances to ground but as outputs
they can supply up to about 20mA of
current (per pin) to the outside world
and not much more. If you configure a
port as an output (either accidentally
or otherwise) and it shorts directly to
ground, that port will be destroyed
and possibly the entire micro
con
troller as well.
Another “gotcha” is that noise can
cause the pin to reconfigure itself as an
output in mid-program. In this case,
the 250Ω resistor will limit the current
to a safe level until the port settings
are revised by the running program.
Pull-down resistors
The Set (SET) and Increment (INC)
inputs at pins 30 & 29 both require
pull-down resistors. For convenience
and to allow for later expansion, these
resistors are part of a resistor array
package (RP1). This handy little component contains five 10kΩ resistors,
all connected at one end to a single
pin (in this case, pin 1).
In this design, pin 1 is grounded,
while the resistors at pins 3 & 4 go to
FEBRUARY 2000 17
Fig.2: install the parts on the PC board exactly as shown in this wiring diagram.
Note that the Reset switch (S10) is optional and won't be needed in most cases.
The panel mount fuseholder is also optional.
pins 29 & 30 of IC1, respectively. This
means that pins 29 & 30 are normally
pulled low via the 10kΩ resistors in
RP1. Pressing the Set and Increment
switches pulls these inputs high via
a 250Ω resistor (R15).
In a similar vein, pin 6 is open
collector and is normally pulled
high via R16. In this case, however,
pin 6 functions as an output. A high
output results in the pin remaining
high resistance, allowing R16 to pull
it to +5V. Conversely, a low effectively
18 Silicon Chip
shorts the pin to ground.
Pin 1 (MCLR) is also normally
pulled high, in this case via R13.
Switch S10 resets the microcontroller
by pulling pin 1 low. This clears the
time settings and restarts the program.
The clock
If you’ve dabbled before with
micro
controllers, you’ll know that
they accept a variety of clock signals.
Crystals, ceramic resonators and resistor/capacitor timing can all be used,
depending on how accurate the clock
has to be. For example, serial data
transmission and reception requires
good clock accuracy and so a ceramic
resonator (at least) is necessary, or
even a crystal for high baud rates.
A look at the circuit diagram reveals
a crystal lurking between pins 15
and 16 but this crystal has nothing to
do with the microcontroller’s clock.
Instead, the microcontroller’s clock
is based on a simple RC timer consisting of R7 and C1 (pin 13). Such a
rudimentary timer is quite sufficient
for such simple functions as switching
solenoids and updating registers, etc.
However, it’s not good enough for the
real time clock, which is where the
crystal oscillator comes in.
The crystal oscillator operates at
32.768kHz and the resulting square
wave is fed to an internal counter
which divides by 216 to give a frequency of 1Hz. This signal triggers
an interrupt routine that updates the
seconds, minutes and hours counters.
Serial ports
The more sophisticated PICs,
including the 16C74A used here,
all have hardware serial receiver/
transmitters, commonly referred to
as USARTs (universal synchronous
asynchronous receiver transmitters).
The most common application is as
an asynchronous receiver/transmitter
which is the protocol that the average
modem uses.
The ability to do serial communication in hardware is enormously
useful. Although it’s possible to write
software that performs this function,
it’s difficult because the timing of
the individual bits needs to be very
precise, especially at high baud rates.
Not only that but the time between bits
can get very short at high rates and
the software has to constantly hover,
waiting for the next bit to have its turn,
making it difficult to do anything else.
By contrast, a hardware USART
allows you to simply dump in the byte
to be transmitted and set the “send”
bit. Similarly, reception of a complete
byte causes a “message received” byte
to be set and this in turn can trigger an
interrupt. The receive buffer is three
layers deep so two complete bytes can
be received before the buffer needs to
be unloaded.
Having said all that, the USART
is not used in this project. However,
if there is sufficient interest in the
Sprinkler Controller, a future expansion that uses serial transmission is
planned.
The display
16 x 2 LCD displays are quite cheap
these days and go a long way towards
making the operation of electronic
equipment nearly foolproof. In this
case, the LCD is used to show the time
and day and to guide the operator
when setting the watering start times.
The data is shifted into the LCD in
two 4-bit chunks via inputs D7-D4.
This saves four pins on the micro
controller but is a fraction slower
and makes it a tad more difficult to
program.
Note also that I have not used a
trimpot to set the contrast of the display. Instead, a fixed contrast voltage
of about 0.25V is used and this is set
by the resistive divider formed by R8
and R9 on pin 3 (VEE).
Triac switching
A complicating factor in sprinkler
timer design is that the systems run off
24V AC, which is necessary to avoid
corrosion in the lines to the solenoids.
Consequently, there is no easy way
to use simple DC components such
as transistors to drive the solenoids;
the drivers have to handle AC and in
this design we use Triacs to switch
the power.
In greater detail, the six sector outputs from IC1 appear at pins 23-28 and
drive MOC3021 optically-coupled Triac drivers (OPT1-6) via 300Ω current
limiting resistors. These in turn drive
six power Triacs (Triacs1-6).
The MOC3021s serve to isolate IC1
from the inductive voltage spikes
generated when the solenoids switch
on and off. When a sector output goes
high, the LED inside the relevant
MOC3021 turns on and this turns on
its companion optically-triggered Triac. This in turn applies bias to the gate
of a power Triac which then switches
on and applies power to the solenoid.
Power supply
The transformers available for use
with sprinkler timers are rated at 24V
AC and this gives a nominal 34V DC
after rectification and filtering. However, this creates a small problem
because standard voltage regulators
only operate safely up to 30V.
The answer is to use a pre-regulator,
in this case based on resistor R10 and
zener diode ZD1. Bridge rectifier BR1
rectifies the incoming AC and feeds
the resulting DC voltage to R10 and
ZD1, which provide a regulated +10V
rail. This rail is filtered using C5 & C6
and fed to 3-terminal regulator REG1
which provides a +5V rail for IC1 and
the LCD.
Note that it is good practice to use
high-quality capacitors in power supplies such as this (remember they are
on for 24 hours a day for years) and
these are rather expensive.
Because the settings are stored in
volatile RAM (in IC1), the circuit requires battery backup so that the set
Parts List
1 PC board (available from
author)
1 plastic electrical case to suit
7 SPST PC-mount toggle
switches (S1-S7)
2 momentary contact pushbutton
switches (S8,S9)
1 MF-R050 polyswitch
1 V100ZA3 metal oxide varistor
(MOV1)
1 32.768kHz crystal (X1)
2 M205 fuseholder clips plus
100mA fuse (F1)
2 6-way PC-mount screw
terminal blocks
1 battery snap connector
6 10kΩ PC-mount miniature
potentiometers (VR1-VR6)
(Farnell Cat. 697-990)
1 16 x 2 LCD module
1 6-pin SIL 10kΩ resistor array,
pin 1 common (RP1)
Semiconductors
1 PIC16C74A programmed
microcontroller (IC1)
1 78L05 5V regulator (REG1)
6 MOC3021 optoisolated Triac
drivers (Opto1-6)
6 2N6075B 600V 4A Triacs
(Triac1-6)
1 DIL 200V diode bridge (BR1)
1 1N4740 10V 1W zener diode
(ZD1)
1 1N4001 silicon diode D1
Capacitors
2 1000µF 16VW electrolytics
(C4,C6)
4 0.1µF monolithic (C5,C7-C9)
1 15pF ceramic (C1)
2 12pF ceramic (C2,C3)
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
3 10kΩ
6 300Ω
1 2.2kΩ
2 250Ω
1 470Ω 5W
1 68Ω
6 390Ω
times are not lost during blackouts.
This is provided by a 9V battery via
diode D1.
Normally, D1 is reverse biased and
no power is drawn from the battery.
However, if mains power fails, D1 becomes forward biased and the battery
supplies power to regulator REG1.
Note, however, that the battery backup is only intended to cater for short
interruptions to the power supply.
FEBRUARY 2000 19
A conventional fuse could also
be used here and indeed the circuit
shows a 750mA slow blow type (F2)
wired in series with the polyswitch.
In most cases, this fuse won’t be
necessary and can be replaced with
a wire link.
Construction
The front panel is secured to the PC board by placing it over the switches and
pot shafts and doing up the switch nuts. Take care with your soldering to ensure
that adjacent tracks or IC pads aren't bridged.
Varistor MOV1 across the AC power
input is there to protect the diode
bridge from switching spikes generated by the solenoids. This device acts
like a high resistance to the “normal”
voltages from the 24V AC power supply but breaks down at about 100V.
As a result, switching spikes from
the solenoids are effectively clamped
to 100V and this protects the bridge
rectifier (BR1) which is rated at 200V.
As a further precaution, fuse F1 is
included to protect against short circuits and other faults in the electronic
circuitry. The solenoids and Triacs
are separately protected using a polyswitch (or self-resetting fuse). These
devices use a conductive polymer
that melts internally and becomes a
high resistance when too much current passes through them and then
returns to normal when the overload
is removed.
The reasons for using a polyswitch
are mainly to do with reliability. Many
people use sprinkler controllers to
keep their plants alive during holiday
periods and if an intermittent problem
develops in a solenoid, a conventional
fuse would bring the whole system
down. A polyswitch can recover from
such problems so that the owners
don’t return to a desert. However, it
can’t prevent the unit from shutting
down if a solenoid or the wiring to it
develops a permanent short.
Because of the simplicity of the
circuit, the construction is very
straightforward. Virtually all the parts,
including the LCD, mount on a single
PC board measuring 152 x 123mm
and this is housed in a waterproof
electrical instrument case. The main
exceptions are the Set and Increment
switches which are mounted on the
front panel.
The Reset switch and panel-mount
fuseholder (both optional) can also be
mounted on the front panel.
Fig.2 shows the assembly details.
Begin by installing all the wire links
and resistors, followed by the power
supply circuitry (at bottom right)
including the fuses, battery snap
connector, varistor and polyswitch.
Watch the polarity of the electrolytic
capacitors and note that the resistor
array must be installed with its dot
towards the optoisolators (Opto 1-6).
Next, install a socket for IC1 and fit
the screw terminal blocks along the
bottom edge of the board. Don’t install
IC1, the optoisolators or the LCD at
this stage – that step comes later after
you’ve tested the power supply and
confirmed that it works correctly.
As mentioned above, the panel-mount fuse (F2) is optional. Install
a wire link across the fuseholder pads
on the board if you don’t intend to
include this fuse.
At this stage you should have a
fully functioning power supply and
this should now be tested before
installing any more parts. To do this,
connect the leads from your 24V AC
plugpack supply to the relevant screw
Resistor Colour Codes
No.
3
1
1
6
6
2
1
20 Silicon Chip
Value
10kΩ
2.2kΩ
470Ω 5W
390Ω
300Ω
250Ω
68Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black orange brown
red red red brown
not applicable
orange white brown brown
orange black brown brown
red green brown brown
blue grey black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black red brown
red red black brown brown
not applicable
orange white black black brown
orange black black black brown
red green black black brown
blue grey black gold brown
If the unit is to be moved about,
it would be a good idea to fit
a couple of stand-offs between
the main PC board and the LCD
module, so that the header pins
don’t lift the copper pads on the
PC board.
terminal block and switch on. This
done, switch your multimeter to a low
voltage range and connect the negative
lead to the negative side of one of the
1000µF capacitors (either C6 or C4).
The main supply rails can now be
checked by probing with the positive
lead. The righthand lead of the 470Ω
5W resistor should have +10V on it
and this is the voltage across zener
diode ZD1. Similarly, the positive
lead of C4 should be at +5V which
represents the output from REG1.
Pins 11 & 32 of the microcontroller
socket should also be at +5V, while
pins 12 & 31 should be at ground (ie,
0V). Pins 17, 18, 29 & 30 are pulled
down to ground by the resistor array
and so these pins should also be at 0V.
Pin 1, the reset pin, should be at +5V.
The LCD has two unused pins on
the righthand side (labelled A & K)
and then it’s ground, +5V and contrast
in that order. Because the LCD is not
yet installed, it’s easier to carefully
flip the board over and check for the
required voltages. The contrast pin
should have a fairly low voltage on
it – around 0.25V.
Checking the Triac circuitry
If everything checks out so far,
check the remaining pins of the micro
controller socket. These should all be
at 0V and the same goes for the LCD.
Assuming everything is OK, switch
off and install the MOC3021 opto
isolators and the Triacs, taking care of
their orientation. This done, reapply
power and connect a couple of solenoids to the lefthand screw terminal
block (CON1) and also a flying lead
to the positive side of C4; ie, the +5V
power supply rail.
Now touch this flying lead to pins
23-28 of the microcontroller socket in
turn. Provided you have a solenoid
hooked up to the appropriate output,
you should hear a satisfying click as
the solenoid switches on. Note that
pin 23 controls solenoid 1, pin 24
controls solenoid 2 and so on. If you
only have a couple of solenoids, just
move them to successive positions on
CON1 so that you can test all the Triac
drive circuits.
Assuming that the circuit passes
all these tests, switch off and install
the microcontroller, the LCD, crystal
X1, toggle switches S1-S7 and the six
pots (VR1-VR6). Note that the micro
controller is static sensitive and will
need to be treated carefully.
You will find that the pins of the
microcontroller need to be bent slightly inwards before it can be inserted
into its socket. This is best done by
holding the device between its ends
and pushing one row of pins against
a metal ruler. This done, turn it over,
do the other row and test to see if it
will fit in the socket. If it doesn’t, just
repeat the above procedure until it
fits correctly.
The LCD is mounted on a 16-pin
header socket before it is installed on
the PC board. Push the assembly down
onto the PC board as far as it will go
(ie, push the pins of the header socket
all the way through the plastic) before
soldering the pads.
FEBRUARY 2000 21
The PC board assembly is housed in a plastic electrical case and this can be
fitted with a lid for waterproofing. This lid prevents easy access to the front
panel controls but that doesn’t matter if the settings are seldom changed.
You can now complete the board
assembly by wiring up the Set and
Increment switches (S1 & S2). The
Reset switch (S3) is optional. In most
cases, it can be omitted but we’ve
made provision for it in the unlikely
event that severe electrical noise
sometimes causes the microcontroller
to malfunction – in which case, the
switch can easily be added.
That said, the circuit is designed
to tolerate electrical noise, so you
shouldn’t have any problems along
these lines. There certainly haven’t
been any such problems with the
prototype to date.
Final testing
Once the assembly is complete, clip
in a battery – you should immediately
be rewarded with a display that says
12:00 am, Monday. If not, the first
thing to check is whether the microcontroller is running. Try turning
Pot 1 to the “On Now” position. This
should immediately result in pin 23
of IC1 going to +5V (check this with
22 Silicon Chip
your multimeter).
If that works, then the problem is
most likely in the LCD. When the
timer starts up, there is a flurry of
activity on the data lines to the LCD
and so the next step is to look for that,
preferably using a logic probe.
Another possibility is the contrast
setting on the LCD. If you suspect that
this is a problem (or if the contrast is
poor), remove resistors R8 and R9 and
replace them with a 5kΩ pot. The wiper of the pot should go to the contrast
pin on the LCD while the other two
pins go to +5V and ground.
By suitably adjusting the pot, the
dots that make up the digits should
become visible. If they do and there
is only one line of digits, then the interface to the microcontroller is faulty.
No display at all probably means that
the LCD is either defective or has no
supply rail.
Operation
The operation of the Programmable
Sprinkler Controller is self-evident
with the possible exception of setting
the clock.
To set the current time, press the
Increment button until the clock setting cursor pops up (at the minutes
digit) and hold the button down until
the value is correct. Pressing the Set
button then cycles the cursor to the
next digit which is then adjusted
using the Increment button and so
on until the time setting is complete.
The next press of the Set button then
takes you to the day of the week field
and this is again altered using the
Increment button.
By the way, if you want to change
the “am” indicator to “pm” or vice versa, position the cursor to the right of
the “<” sign and press the Increment
switch to toggle it.
Pressing the SET button sets the
watering start times. The defaults are
for a morning (8.00am) and evening
(7.30pm) watering. If you only want
to water once per day, make the two
start times exactly the same.
Once all the clock settings have
been completed, use the toggle
switches to select the days that watering is to take place and adjust the
watering period for each sector using
the pots.
Final assembly
The completed board assembly is
attached to the front panel (the panel
is fastened using the switch nuts) and
secured inside the plastic case using
self-tapping screws. Before doing this,
you will have to drill a hole in the
bottom of the case to take the leads for
the solenoids. Fit a rubber grommet
to this hole to prevent lead damage.
If necessary, this hole can later be
sealed with silicone sealant (after
you’ve installed the leads) to make
the assembly waterproof.
Once everything is working, connect the solenoids. To test each sector,
simply turn the appropriate knob to
“On Now” and watch for the sprinklers to start operating. Just remember
that only one sector can be turned on
at a time, so turn off each sector before
trying the next one.
Similarly, remember that the sectors
operate sequentially in automatic
mode, so don’t expect to see them all
come on simultaneously at the starting times. Instead, only one sector
will come on and this will complete
its watering cycle before the next
SC
solenoid switches on.
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Keep tabs on your
car's battery with this:
Digital Voltmeter
This digital voltmeter will let you
keep tabs on the condition of your
car’s battery & charging system. A PIC
microcontroller shrinks the circuitry
into the smallest available jiffy box
and makes it a snack to build.
By JOHN CLARKE
Flat batteries usually happen at the
most inconvenient time, in the most
inappropriate place and when the
weather is being totally disagreeable.
In fact, the battery is probably the most
unreliable component in a modern vehicle. To alleviate this problem, some
battery manufacturers incorporate a
backup unit within the same case, to
allow the vehicle to be started if the
main unit fails.
24 Silicon Chip
A car battery can only deliver peak
performance if it is properly maintained. This not only involves keeping
an eye on the electrolyte level but also
ensuring that the charging voltage operates within strict limits. That means
a charging voltage of 13.8-14.4V for a
12V battery, or 27.6-28.8V for a 24V
battery.
If the battery voltage never reaches
13.8V, then either the charging voltage
is too low or the battery is on the way
out. This means that the battery will
be marginal when it comes to delivering the necessary current during
starting, particularly in cold weather.
Conversely, if the battery is being
overcharged, the electrolyte will gas
excessively, leaving the plates dry
and reducing the battery’s amp-hour
(Ah) capacity.
This can not only dramatically
shorten the life of the battery but in
severe cases (eg, if the voltage regulator has failed) could damage various
electronic equipment in the car.
So how can you be sure that your
car’s battery is being properly charged
and that it is in good condition? The
answer is to build and fit this Digital
Voltmeter. It monitors the voltage
across the battery terminals and thus
provides an accurate indication of
the charging voltage. It also indicates
how well the electrical system and the
battery cope with extra loads such as
lighting, fans and audio systems.
In addition, an accurate voltmeter
can quickly indicate the overall condition of the battery. For example, if the
battery voltage regularly drops below
its nominal value of 12V (eg, when
the engine is idling or if the engine
has been turned off for some time), it
indicates that the battery is unable to
maintain a charge (assuming that the
charging system is OK).
Another time to watch the battery
voltage is during starting. During this
time, the starter motor draws substantial current and the battery voltage
will fall below its nominal 12V value.
Wouldn’t it be nice to be able to accurately monitor the minimum battery
voltage when the vehicle is started?
Well, with this Digital Voltmeter
you can because we’ve incorporated a
minimum hold facility. All you have to
do is press the Min/Hold button on the
front panel at any time after starting
and the lowest measured voltage will
be displayed. The display then reverts
to normal mode when the button
is released. The minimum voltage,
which is stored in volatile RAM, is
automatically cleared the next time
the ignition is turned off.
Normally, with a good battery, the
voltage should only drop to around
10.5V when starting the engine, although this will depend on the temperature, the cranking current and on
the battery itself. In any case, it’s just
a matter of using the Min/Hold button
to establish a benchmark minimum
voltage for your car’s battery and then
checking it occasionally to make sure
that the battery is in good condition.
Be aware, though, that it’s normal
for the voltage to go down during cold
weather, so keep this in mind before
suspecting a faulty battery.
In summary, there are good reasons
for carefully monitoring the battery
voltage and this unit is ideal for the
job. It boasts high accuracy, negligible
drift with temperature and a 3-digit
LED display that reads to the nearest
0.1V in 12V mode. It also features
automatic display dimming to suit the
ambient light conditions.
Only three wires are required to
Fig.1 (right): the PIC microcontroller
does most of the work. It accepts
inputs from the battery (via IC2a) and
the Min/Hold switch and drives the
7-segment displays in multiplex fashion.
FEBRUARY 2000 25
Parts List
1 processor PC board, code
05102001, 78 x 50mm (150
holes)
1 display PC board, code
05102002, 78 x 50mm (93
holes)
1 front panel label, 80 x 53mm
1 plastic case utility case, 83 x 54
x 30mm
1 4MHz parallel resonant crystal
(X1)
1 LDR (Jaycar RD-3480 or
equivalent)
3 PC stakes
3 7-way pin head launchers
2 DIP-14 low-cost IC sockets
with wiper contacts (cut for 3 x
7-way single in-line sockets)
1 PC board mount click-action
push-on switch (S1)
1 9mm tapped brass spacer
3 6mm tapped spacers
2 M3 x 6mm countersunk screws
or Nylon cheesehead
2 M3 plastic washers 1mm thick
or 1 M3 plastic washer 2mm
thick
2 M3 x 15mm brass screws
1 2m length of red automotive
wire
1 2m length of yellow automotive
wire
1 2m length of black or green
automotive wire (ground wire)
1 5A 3AG fuse and in-line
fuseholder (optional)
1 1kΩ horizontal trimpot (VR1)
connect the device to the car’s wiring
(+12V, 0V and battery +ve) and the unit
is easily calibrated by adjusting a single trimpot. A second trimpot sets the
minimum display brightness at night.
Circuit details
Refer now to Fig.1 for the circuit
details. It’s dominated by IC1, a
PIC16F84 microcontroller, which
forms the basis of the circuit. This
device accepts inputs from the battery
and switch S1, processes this information and drives the LED displays
to give a voltage readout.
If you think that the circuit looks
similar to the Speed Alarm featured in
the November 1999 issue, you’re dead
right – it is. The major change, at least
26 Silicon Chip
1 500kΩ horizontal trimpot (VR2)
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F84P microprocessor
programmed with DVM.HEX
program (IC1)
1 LM358 dual op amp (IC2)
1 LM2940-T5.0 5V 1A low dropout
3-terminal regulator (REG1)
3 BC328 PNP transistors (Q1-Q3)
1 BC338 NPN transistors (Q4)
3 HDSP5301, LTS542A common
anode 7-segment LED displays
(DISP1-DISP3)
1 20V 1W zener diode (ZD1)
Capacitors
1 47µF 16VW PC electrolytic
1 22µF 35VW PC electrolytic
1 10µF 35VW PC electrolytic
1 1µF 16VW PC electrolytic
2 0.1µF MKT polyester
2 15pF ceramic
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
3 10kΩ
3 680Ω
1 3.3kΩ
8 150Ω
1 1.8kΩ
1 10Ω 1W
Miscellaneous
Automotive connectors, heatshrink
tubing, cable ties, superglue.
Extra parts for the 24V version
1 PC stake
1 22kΩ resistor
5 820Ω 1W resistors
as far as the hardware is concerned,
is to the input circuitry around IC2a
(plus we’ve eliminated some of the
switches). And that’s the beauty of
using a PIC processor – we can use
similar circuitry but get it to perform
a completely different function by
rewriting the software that controls
the internal “smarts” of the device.
As a bonus, we can shrink the parts
count and that in turns means lower
cost.
OK, let’s start with the voltage sensing circuit based on IC2a. As shown in
Fig.1, the battery voltage is applied to
a divider consisting of a 10kΩ resistor
and a 1.8kΩ resistor in series with a
1kΩ trimpot (VR1). Assuming a 12V
battery, the battery voltage is divided
by a factor of 5.1, filtered using 10µF
capacitor and applied to pin 2 of comparator stage IC2a.
In operation, IC2a compares the
voltage on its pin 2 input with a DC
voltage on its pin 3 input. This DC
voltage is derived by applying a pulse
width modulated (PWM) square-wave
signal from the RA3 output of IC1 to
a 1µF capacitor via a 10kΩ resistor.
As a result, pin 1 of IC2a switches
low when ever the voltage on its pin
2 is greater than the voltage on pin 3.
This signal is then fed via a 3.3kΩ limiting resistor to the RB0 input of IC1.
The resistor limits the current flow
from IC2a when its output goes high
to a nominal 12V, while the internal
clamp diodes at RB0 limit the voltage
on this pin to 5.5V.
A-D converter
Most of the complexity of this circuit is hidden inside the microcontroller (IC1) and its internal program.
However, among other things, IC1
functions as an analog-to-digital (A-D)
converter. In operation, it converts the
comparator signal on its RB0 (pin 6)
input into a digital value which is then
used to drive the 3-digit LED display.
The A-D converter used here is a
little unusual and only requires two
connections to the microcontroller.
As mentioned above, the output at
RA3 produces a PWM signal and this
operates at 1.953kHz with a duty cycle ranging from .075% to 90%. Note
that the high output level is at +5V
while the low output level is at 0V.
The 10kΩ resistor and 1µF capacitor
filter the output from RA3 to derive a
DC voltage that is the average of the
duty cycle waveform.
This means that if the duty cycle is
50% (ie, a square wave), the output
voltage is 50% of 5V, or 2.5V This
voltage is applied to pin 3 of IC2a.
Other DC voltages are obtained by
using different duty cycles. This DC
voltage is connected to pin 3 of IC2a
which is used as a comparator.
Operation of the A-D converter is
as follows: initially, the RA3 output
operates with a 50% duty cycle and
this sets the voltage at pin 3 of IC2a to
2.5V. At the same time, an 8-bit register inside IC1 has its most significant
bit set high so that its value will be
10000000.
The 50% duty cycle signal is produced by IC1 for 65.5ms, after which
the comparator output (pin 1 of IC2a)
is monitored by the RB0 input. Pin 1
of IC2a is low if the divided battery
voltage at pin 2 is greater than 2.5V
and high if the divided voltage is less
than 2.5V.
What happens now is that if the
divided voltage is less than 2.5V, the
PWM output at RA3 is reduced to a
25% duty cycle to produce 1.25V.
The internal register is now set to
01000000. Alternatively, if the divided voltage is greater than 2.5V,
corresponding to a low comparator
output, RA3’s output is increased to
a 75% duty cycle to provide 3.75V.
The register is thus set to 11000000,
with the most significant bit indicating
a 2.5V 50% duty cycle and the next
bit indicating the 1.25V 25% duty
cycle (adding the two bits gives us
the 3.75V).
The comparator level is now again
checked after 65.5ms, after which
the microcontroller adds or subtracts
a 12.5% duty cycle (0.625V) and
checks against the divided battery
voltage again. The register is then set at
X1100000 (with the X value a 1 or 0 as
determined by the previous operation)
if the input voltage is higher than the
PWM waveform. If the input voltage
is lower than the PWM voltage, the
register is set at X0100000.
This process continues for eight
cycles, the microcontroller either
adding or subtracting smaller amounts
of voltage (0.3125V, 0.156V, 0.078V,
0.039V and 0.0195V) and the lower
bits in the 8-bit register being either
set to a 1 or a 0 to obtain an 8-bit A-D
conversion.
The A-D conversion thus has a resolution of about 19mV (0.0195V) at the
least significant bit. In addition, there
are 256 possible values for the 8-bit
register, ranging from 00000000 (0) to
11111111 (255). In practice, however,
we are limited to a range from about
19 to 231.
This is because the software must
have time for internal processing to
take place, to produce the waveform
at RA3’s output and to monitor the
RB0 input. The two values (ie, 19 &
231) correspond to 1.9V and 23.1V
for the 12V measurement mode. This
restricted measurement range is not
really a problem for a car voltmeter
since we only need to measure within
a narrow range from about 6-16V for
a 12V battery.
Following the A-D conversion process, the binary number stored in the
Fig.2: the top waveform in this scope shot shows the output from pin 2 of IC1.
In this case, the peak-to-peak output is 5.12V and the duty cycle is 50%. The
bottom trace shows the resulting filtered waveform on pin 3 of IC2.
8-bit register must be converted to a
decimal value before it can be shown
on the 3-digit display. Once again, this
takes place inside the PIC microcontroller. Note that, in the 24V mode,
the 8-bit register value is multiplied
by two before being converted to the
decimal value. This gives a resolution
of 200mV for the measured voltage.
The A-D conversion relies on several factors to produce a consistent
reading. First, the reference voltage
must remain stable and this means
that the output from RA3 must swing
to the full positive supply rail and all
the way to ground. If it doesn’t, then
the filtered output from RA3 will vary
and give inaccurate results.
For the same reason, the duty cycle
of the PWM waveform at RA3’s output must remain accurate over each
65.5ms period.
In this case, the reference uses the
supply from an LM2940T-5 regulator
which has excellent long term stability
Main Features
•
•
•
•
•
Compact case.
3-digit LED display with automatic dimming.
12V or 24V operation.
Optional remote voltage sensing.
Minimum hold voltage display.
(20mV/1000 hours at 150°C junction
temperature and at maximum input of
26V). Its temperature variation is just
20mV over a 100°C range. In addition,
the output at RA3 is CMOS and swings
to within a few millivolts of the supply
rails at no load.
As for the duty cycle, this is set by
the software and is controlled using
a 4MHz crystal oscillator on pins 15
& 16. This means that the resultant
voltage reading should be accurate to
±1 digit (±2 digits for 24V operation).
The minimum hold switch (S1) is
monitored at the RA4 input. Normally,
the RA4 input is held high via a 10kΩ
resistor to the 5V supply. However,
when the switch is closed, it pulls
the RA4 input low. This low is then
detected by the software which subsequently loads the 7-segment data for
the minimum voltage reading into the
display register.
When S1 is released, RA4 is pulled
high again and the current battery
voltage is again displayed.
LED displays
The 7-segment display data from
IC1 appears at outputs RB1-RB7.
These outputs directly drive the LED
displays via 150Ω current limiting
resistors while the RA0-RA2 outputs
drive the individual displays via
switching transistors Q1-Q3.
The displays are driven in multiplex
fashion, with IC1 switching its RA0,
FEBRUARY 2000 27
and off at 1.96kHz, they appear to be
continuously lit.
Display brightness
Fig.3: install the parts on the PC boards as shown here. Note particularly
the orientation of switch S1 and be sure to use a BC338 transistor for Q4.
The 820Ω resistors (shown in green) are used only in the 24V version.
IC2b is used to control the display
brightness. This op amp is wired as a
voltage follower and drives a transistor
buffer stage (Q4) which is inside the
negative feedback loop. Light dependent resistor LDR1 controls the voltage
on the pin 5 input of IC2b according
to the ambient light level. IC2b drives
Q4 which in turn controls the voltage
applied to the emitters of the display
drivers (Q1-Q3).
During daylight hours, the voltage
on pin 5 (and thus on pin 7) is close
to +5V because the LDR has a low
resistance in strong light. This means
that Q4’s emitter will also be close to
+5V and so the displays are lit at full
brilliance
Conversely, as the light level falls,
the resistance of the LDR increases and
the voltage on pin 5 of IC2b decreases.
In fact, when it’s completely dark, the
voltage on pin 5 is determined by the
setting of trimpot VR2 which sets the
minimum brightness level. As before,
this voltage appears at Q4’s emitter
and so the displays are all driven at
reduced brightness.
Note that, in practice, VR2 is adjusted to give the desired display
brightness at night.
Clock signals
RA1 and RA2 lines low in sequence.
For example, when RA0 is brought
low, transistor Q1 turns on and applies power to the common anode
connection of DISP1. Any low outputs
on RB1-RB7 will thus light the corresponding segments of that display.
After this display has been on for
a short time, the RA0 output is taken
high and DISP1 turns off. The 7-segment data on RB1-RB7 is then updated, after which RA1 is brought low to
drive Q2 and display DISP2. Finally,
RA2 is taken low and new 7-segment
data presented to DISP3.
This cycle is repeated for as long
as power is applied to the unit and
because the displays are switched on
Clock signals for IC1 are provided
by an internal oscillator circuit which
operates in conjunction with crystal
X1 (4MHz) and two 15pF capacitors.
The two capacitors are included to
provide the correct loading for the
crystal and to ensure reliable starting.
The crystal frequency is divided
down internally to produce separate
clock signals for the microcontroller
Resistor Colour Codes
No.
1
3
1
1
3
8
5
1
28 Silicon Chip
Value
22kΩ
10kΩ
3.3kΩ
1.8kΩ
680Ω
150Ω
820Ω
10Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
red red orange brown
brown black orange brown
orange orange red brown
brown grey red brown
blue grey brown brown
brown green brown brown
grey red brown brown
brown black black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
red red black red brown
brown black black red brown
orange orange black brown brown
brown grey black brown brown
blue grey black black brown
brown green black black brown
grey red black black brown
brown black black gold brown
operation and for the display multi
plexing.
Power
Power for the circuit is derived from
the vehicle’s battery via the ignition
switch. A 10Ω 1W resistor and 22µF
capacitor decouple this supply rail,
while 20V zener diode ZD1 protects
the circuit from transient voltage
spikes above this value.
The decoupled ignition supply rail
is then fed to regulator REG1 which
provides a +5V rail. This rail is then
used to power all the circuitry except
for IC2 which is powered directly
from the decoupled ignition supply. A
47µF capacitor and a 0.1µF capacitor
are used to decouple the regulator’s
output.
For 24V systems, the supply input
is applied via five parallel-connected
820Ω 1W resistors which provide a
voltage drop to limit dissipation in
the regulator. Note that a low dropout
regulator is used to allow the voltmeter
to operate down to about 5.5V for 12V
systems. A standard regulator would
have only allowed measurements
down to about 8V before REG1 began
to drop out of regulation.
OK, so much for the circuitry. Of
course, most of the clever stuff takes
place inside the PIC microcontroller
under software control. For a broad
overview of how this software works,
take a look at the accompanying panel.
Construction
Fortunately, you don’t have to understand how the software works to
build this project. Instead, you just
buy the ready-programmed PIC chip
and “plug it in”.
All the parts are mounted on two
small PC boards: a processor board
coded 05102001 and a display board
coded 05102002. These are stacked
together using pin headers and cut
down IC sockets. Fig.3 shows the
assembly details.
Before installing any of the parts,
check the PC boards carefully for
etching defects and undrilled holes.
Two large holes are required in the
display PC board to accommodate a
screwdriver to adjust VR1 and VR2.
These are just below DISP3 and to the
left of S1. Note that two small pilot
holes are provided in each location to
suit two different trimpot sizes – just
drill out the holes to suit the trimpots
supplied.
The display board (in case at top) plugs into the pin header sockets on the
processor board (above). Notice how the bodies of the electrolytic capacitors on
the processor board are bent over, so that they lie parallel to the board surface.
You can now start the assembly by
installing the parts on the processor
board. Begin by installing all the wire
links, then solder in all the resistors
using the accompanying resistor colour code table as a guide. It’s also a
good idea to use a digital multimeter
to measure each one, just to make sure.
Note that the seven 150Ω resistors
Capacitor Codes
Value
IEC Code EIA Code
0.1µF
100n
104
15pF 15p 15
are mounted end on. Note also the
different values for the resistor immediately below VR1.
The two horizontal trimpots (VR1
& VR2) can go in next, followed by
PC stakes at the four external wiring
points. This done, solder in a socket
for IC1 (but don’t install the IC yet),
then install IC2 by soldering it directly
to the PC board. Make sure that both
the socket and IC2 are correctly oriented. This done, install zener diode
ZD1 and transistors Q1-Q4.
Be careful here – Q4 is a BC338
NPN type while Q1-Q3 are BC328 PNP
types, so don’t get them mixed up.
Zener diode ZD1 can now be
FEBRUARY 2000 29
How The Software Works
We have already described the operation of the
A-D converter in the main article and this forms a
major part of the software operation. Other sections
of the software come under two headings: (1) MAIN
and (2) INTRUPT.
The accompanying flowchart shows the MAIN
and INTRUPT programs. The MAIN program
operates when the processor is reset after first
powering up. It sets up the RB0 and RA4 ports as
inputs and the RB1-RB7 and RA0-RA3 ports as
outputs. It then reads the value stored in memory
for 12/24V mode and places it in a flag register.
After this, it looks for a pressed switch which is
used to change the 12/24V option.
If the switch is pressed, it toggles from the
current option to the other (ie, if the unit was in 12V
mode, it toggles to 24V mode and vice versa). The
new option is then written to memory for storage.
Interrupts are now allowed which starts the program skipping to the INTRUPT section when ever
the internal timer triggers an interrupt. We interrupt
via an internal timer which can be preloaded so
that the period between interrupts can be adjusted.
This feature is used to generate the pulse width
modulation output at RA3.
If we want the RA3 output to be low for a short
time, we load the timer with a value close to 255.
Then, when the counter increases and overflows
from 255 to 0, we have another interrupt.
The converse happens for a high output from
RA3. In this case, the timer is preloaded with a value
of 255 minus the value used for the RA3 low output
time. When the next interrupt occurs (ie, when the
count rolls over from 255 to 0 again), RA3 goes
low and the cycle start all over again.
The value that is loaded into the counter is
called LOW_TIME and is the same value as used
in the 8-bit register for the A-D conversion. This
A-D conversion is detailed in the circuit description
and its operational block is shown in the MAIN and
INTRUPT program flowchart.
The display is updated in the multiplex routine
when the total 255 counter period has expired. This
occurs on each second timer overflow interrupt.
The multiplexing lights the next display and switches off the previous one. The left digit is blanked if
the value for the display is below 10.0V.
After the A-D conversion, in the Main program,
the software tests the minimum hold switch. If it
is pressed, the LOW_1 value (ie, the lowest value)
is displayed.
If the switch is open, the REAL_V value, which
is the value arrived at during the A-D conversion,
is compared with the current LOW_1 value. If the
REAL_V value is the lower of the two, it replaces
the current LOW_1 value (ie, the LOW_1 value is
updated).
A check as to whether the 12V or 24V flag is set
determines whether or not the value for display is
multiplied by two, as required for the 24V setting.
Finally, the values are converted to decimal for
the display. The process then continues with another A-D conversion to measure the voltage again.
Full software for the Digital Voltmeter can be
obtained from our website and is called DVM.ASM.
This may be used by readers who are interested in
the programming details.
30 Silicon Chip
Specifications
Range: about 5.5-23.1V when
powered from a 12V battery; 1846.2V when powered from a 24V
battery.
Display Resolution: 100mV in
12V mode, 200mV in 24V mode.
Update time: 0.52s
The pin headers are installed on the copper side of the display board using a
fine-tipped soldering iron. These headers plug into matching sockets on the
processor board.
Crystal X1 also mounts horizontally
on the PC board. It is secured by soldering a short length of tinned copper
wire between one end of its metal case
and an adjacent PC pad to the right of
transistor Q2.
Finally, the three 7-way in-line
sockets can be fitted. These are made
by cutting two 14-pin IC sockets into
single in-line strips using a sharp
knife or a fine-toothed hacksaw. Clean
up the rough edges with a file before
installing them on the PC board.
Display board
This view shows the completed module, with the two PC boards stacked
together in “piggyback” fashion. Make sure that none of the parts on the
processor board contact the back of the display board.
installed, followed by REG1. The
latter is installed with its metal tab
flat against the PC board and with
its leads bent at rightangles to pass
through their respective mounting
holes. Be sure to accurately align the
hole in the regulator’s metal tab with
its hole in the PC board.
The capacitors can go in next, mak-
ing sure that the electrolytic types
are all correctly oriented. Note that
the electrolytics must all be mounted
so that they lie parallel with the PC
board. In particular, the 22µF & 47µF
capacitors at bottom right lie across
the regulator leads, while the two
10µF capacitors lie across the adjacent
1.8kΩ and 10kΩ resistors.
Now for the display board: install
the seven wire links and the resistors
first, then install the three 7-segment
LED displays with their decimal
points at bottom right. Note that the
links all go under the displays, which
is why they’re shown dotted on Fig.2.
The 820Ω 1W resistors (shown in blue)
are required for the 24V version only.
The LDR is mounted so that its top
face is about 3mm above the displays.
Install it now (it can go in either way),
then install S1 with its flat side oriented as shown. Finally, complete the
display board assembly by installing
the pin headers. These are installed
from the copper side of the board,
with their pins protruding about 1mm
above the top surface.
You will need a fine-tipped iron
to solder these pin headers. You will
also have to slide the plastic spacers
along the pins to give sufficient room
for soldering.
Preparing the case
Fig.4: the two PC boards are secured together using spacers, a 2mmthick washer and several machine screws.
Work can now begin on the plastic case. First, use a sharp chisel to
remove the integral side pillars, then
slide the processor PC board into
place and use it as a template to drill
two mounting holes in the base – one
through the hole in REG1’s metal tab
and the other immediately below the
0.1µF capacitor on the far lefthand
FEBRUARY 2000 31
small dabs of super glue along the
inside edges.
Finally, a hole is also required
in the rear (base) of the case for the
power leads.
Testing
Fig.5: this full-size front panel artwork can be used as
a drilling template.
It’s a good idea to check the power
supply before plugging the microcontroller IC into its socket.
To check the supply, first unplug the
display board and put it to one side.
Now connect automotive hookup wire
to the +12V and GND (chassis) inputs
on the processor board. This done,
apply power and use a multimeter
to check that there is +5V on pins 4
& 14 of IC1’s socket (you can use the
metal tab of REG1 for the negative
connection).
If this is correct, disconnect the
power and install IC1 in its socket,
ensuring that it is oriented correctly.
This done, plug the display board back
into the pin headers on the processor
board and reapply power. The LED
displays should light and show “L0”,
indicating that the input voltage is
below 1.9V (ie, not connected).
You can test the dimming feature
by holding your finger over the LDR.
Adjust VR2 until the display dims.
Calibration
Fig.6: check your boards carefully against these full
size PC artworks before installing any of the parts.
side. This done, use an oversize drill
to countersink these holes at the rear
of the case, to suit the specified M3 x
6mm CSK screws.
Next, plug the display board into
the processor board and secure them
together as shown in Fig.4. Check that
the leads from the parts on the display
PC board do not interfere with any
parts on the processor PC board. If
necessary, trim the leads of the parts
on the display board to avoid this.
The front panel artwork can now
be affixed to the panel and used as
32 Silicon Chip
a template for drilling the LDR and
switch holes and for making the display cutout. It’s best to drill a small
pilot hole for the switch first and then
carefully enlarge it to the correct size
using a tapered reamer.
The display cutout is made by first
drilling a series of small holes around
the inside perimeter, then knocking
out the centre piece and filing to a
smooth finish. Make the cutout so that
the red Perspex or Acrylic window is
a tight fit. This window can then be
further secured by applying several
The calibration procedure for both
versions is straightforward. Basically,
the procedure involves applying a
suitable input voltage and adjusting
trimpot VR1 until the reading on the
display matches the reading obtained
on a digital multimeter.
Let’s look at the 12V version first.
The step-by-step procedure is as
follows:
(1). Connect the “To Battery +ve”
terminal to the “+12V Via Ignition
Switch” terminal using a short length
of wire.
(2). Connect a 12V (approx.) supply
to the “+12V Via Ignition Switch”
terminal and ground.
(3). Compare the reading against a
digital multimeter and adjust VR1 for
the same reading. Note that the Digital
Voltmeter only updates about every
0.5 seconds, so adjust VR1 slowly
during this procedure.
If you don’t have a digital multimeter, connect the “To Battery +ve”
terminal to the output of REG1 and
adjust VR1 for a reading of 5.0V. This
should give a reasonably acc
urate
calibration, to within ±150mV.
Truscott’s
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The Perspex window should be a tight fit in the front panel cutout and can be
further secured by applying spots of super glue along the inside edges.
The calibration procedure for the
24V version is only slightly more
complicated. In this case, you have
to “switch” the unit to 24V mode first
before calibration can take place (the
12V mode is the default). The step-bystep procedure is:
(1). Connect the “To Battery +ve”
terminal to the “+24V Via Ignition
Switch” terminal.
(2). Press (and hold down) the Min/
Hold switch and apply 18-30V to the
Digital Voltmeter. The display will
show an “H” to indicate that the 24V
mode has been set. This setting will
now remain even if the supply is subsequently switched off and on again.
(3). Compare the Digital Voltmeter
reading against the reading obtained
on a digital multimeter and adjust
VR1 for the same reading. Be sure to
adjust VR1 very slowly – as before, the
Digital Voltmeter updates only about
twice every second.
Note also that the reading will only
show an even number after the decimal point (ie, it indicates in 200mV
steps). This means that a 24.1V supply
may show 24.0 or 24.2V but not 24.1V.
(4) If you don’t have a digital multimeter, connect the “To Battery +ve”
terminal to the output pin of REG1 and
adjust VR1 for a reading of 5.0V. Once
again, this should give a reasonably
accurate calibration.
By the way, if you want to revert to
the 12V mode, all you have to do is
again press the Min/Hold switch as
power is applied. The display will
now show an “L”, indicating that
the 12V setting mode has now been
selected.
ELECTRONIC WORLD Pty Ltd
ACN 069 935 397
Ph (03) 9723 3860
Installation
Be sure to use automotive cable and
connectors when installing the unit into
a vehicle. The +12V supply is derived
via the ignition switch and a suitable
connection can usually be made at the
fusebox. Be sure to choose the fused side
of the supply rail, so that the existing fuse
is in series.
The ground connection can be made
by connecting a lead to the chassis via a
solder eyelet and a self-tapping screw.
The “To Battery +ve” input can also go
to the fused side of the ignition switch.
Alternatively, this connection can be
run directly to the positive terminal of
the battery via an in-line automotive
fuseholder (mount this fuseholder close
to the battery terminal). This reduces
the voltage drops across the wiring of
the ignition supply and gives a more
accurate reading of the battery voltage,
particularly when starting.
The only drawback with the direct
connection method is that there will
be a constant 1mA drain from the
battery. However, this current is so
low that it really shouldn’t cause any
problems, even if the battery is left
for extended periods without recharging.
Note: When using the voltmeter with
24V vehicles, the five 820Ω resistors
will become quite hot. To alleviate
this, we recommend replacing them
with 10 1.8kΩ 1W resistors. The five
added resistors can be installed on the
SC
underside of the PCB.
Amidon
Stockist
Fax (03) 9725 9443
27 The Mall, South Croydon, Vic 3136
(Melway Map 50 G7)
email: truscott<at>acepia.net.au
www.electronicworld.aus.as
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P.C.B. Material – Negative or
Positive acting
Light Box – Single or Double
Sided – Large or Small
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Ph (03) 9497 3422
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FEBRUARY 2000 33
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Ultrasonic
PARKING RADAR
Do you park by the “touch and go” method – touch the
car behind you, go forward a bit, touch the car in front,
go back a bit . . . ? Shame, shame, shame!
But even if you’re not a careless parker, this little radar
warning unit could help get you into tight spots!
Parking a car is a real problem for
many people. They can’t!
Unless there is a shop window to
reflect off they simply have no idea
how to judge the distance between
the back of their car and the front of
the next.
They either make life very hard for
themselves, making what should be
a three-point parking a ten or twenty
point saga (you think we’re joking?) or,
worse still, stop reversing when their
tow bar has made a nice little scallop
in the number plate of the car behind.
Even a slight touch on a modern
car can cost thousands of dollars to
38 Silicon Chip
repair, especially where integral,
moul-ded (or non-existent) bumper
bars or too-sensitive air bag sensors
are involved.
So what’s the answer?
Here it is – a small ultrasonic
transmitter/receiver which warns
you when you’re getting too close.
It’s designed to fit to the back bumper
(or other suitable location) of your car
and sounds a buzzer or closes a relay
when you’re within the range you set
– anything from about a metre down
to just a few centimetres.
While designed for the specific
purpose of parking, there are other
Design by
Branco
Justic*
applications where you might want to
sense objects that come within range –
security is one which springs to mind,
perhaps even things like vehicles or
other objects going past or through a
small opening.
It’s all housed on one PC board (even
the ultrasonic transducers) which can
all fit into a small disposals plastic
case, ready for mounting on the car.
Circuit description
The circuit can be divided into
three sections – a high gain amplifier
based on transistors Q1 & Q2 and
the ultrasonic transducers, a rectifier
(D1&D2) and an output switch (actually two output switches) based on
IC1c and IC1d.
Two cascaded amplifier stages
based on Q1 and Q2 form a potentially
high gain amplifier, with its gain set by
VR1. This amplifier has a 40kHz ultrasonic receiver transducer connected
to its input and a 40kHz ultrasonic
transmitter transducer connected to
its output (ie, Q2’s collector). So there
is a potential feedback path between
output and input.
Normally, the overall loop gain is
set to be less than one but if an object
comes into reasonably close proximity
and reflects enough energy from the
ultrasonic transmitter to the ultrasonic receiver, the gain increases to
the point where it exceeds one and
the amplifier will then break into
oscillation.
The loop gain includes the acoustic
feedback between the transducers
(loss) and the gain of the amplifier
(gain). The distance at which the oscillation will first occur depends on the
mechanical setup, acoustic isolation
between the ultrasonic transducers
and the setting of VR1. We'll look
at the mechanical considerations
shortly.
The oscillator output is rectified
by C4, D1, D2 and C5 which form a
“diode pump”.
The detected voltage across C5 is
added to the voltage across C6, which
is set by trimpot VR2 connected across
the 6.2V supply.
The total voltage is applied to the
input of NAND gate IC1d. When this
exceeds approximately 3.1V (half the
supply voltage), IC1d’s output goes
low which allows capacitor C7 to
quickly charge via diode D3.
When C7 is charged the input to
IC1c goes low so its output goes high.
Transistor Q3 is turned on, energising
the load connected to its collector.
This load could be an electro-mechanical buzzer or a relay with diode D5
connected across it. At the same time,
the LED connected to Q3’s collector
lights up.
The high output from IC1c also
enables the 3kHz oscillator based on
gates IC1a and IC1b and therefore the
buzzer “buzzes”.
C7 will begin to discharge via R6
after the input amplifier (Q1 & Q2)
stops oscillating; ie when the object
that caused the oscillation is moved
away from the transducers. When the
Ready to mount on the bumper bar or other suitable location, the Ultrasonic
Parking Radar is simple to build, automatic in use and could save you $$$!
voltage falls below 3.1V the output
from IC1c goes low and the LED,
buzzer and/or relay turn off.
There is a test link on the PC board
to assist in setting the unit up. With no
test link it takes C7 about 10 seconds to
discharge. With the test link in place
R10 is in parallel with R6 and the time
is reduced to about one second.
If you wish to adjust the time later,
it is simply a matter of changing R6 –
smaller values for shorter times, larger
values for longer times.
Construction
Start by checking the PC board for
any flaws, defects or undrilled holes.
Then it is simply a matter of mounting
and soldering the lowest components
(resistors and diodes) first, followed
by the capacitors, the trimpots and
finally the transistors, IC and LED.
Note that all semiconductors and
electrolytic capacitors are polarised
and must be inserted the way shown
on the component overlay.
The test link should be installed
at this stage – use one of the resistor
pigtail cut-offs.
PC stakes can be used for external
connections – the + and - power wires
and the wires to the buzzer and/or
relay. The ultrasonic transducers can
be soldered directly to the PC board or
mounted remotely via suitable lengths
of shielded (coaxial) cable.
If you mount them on the board,
they can be on either the component
side or copper side of the board. On
the component side, though, you will
need PC stakes as the leads will not
be long enough to allow mounting
on edge (ie, facing off the edge of the
board).
The transducers are not polarised
but there is a difference between
the transmitter and receiver: one is
branded “S” and the other “R”. Guess
which is which? (A clue: R stands for
receive).
The ultrasonic transmitter and receiver transducers are mounted flush with the
case edge. Alternatively, they could be mounted externally to give even wider
acoustic separation, thus increasing the range of the unit.
FEBRUARY 2000 39
Fig. 1: the complete Ultrasonic Parking Radar. It's
your choice whether the output is a relay or buzzer.
Fig.2 (above): the PC board component layout. Use this in
conjunction with the same-size photograph below and you
should have no problems at all assembling the board.
40 Silicon Chip
Setting up
The range of this unit depends to some degree on the acoustic
separation between the transducers. With them mounted as
shown in the plastic box, the circuit works quite satisfactorily
but it would probably work even better with more separation.
Some experimentation may be necessary to achieve maximum
range. We have also found that, in this box, a small piece of
polyurethane foam placed between the transducers will improve the range of the system.
Before you get to that point though, you will need to set the
trimpots (VR1 and VR2) to at least get the circuit operational.
Turn VR1 and VR2 fully anticlockwise. These settings correspond to minimum amplifier gain (VR1) and minimum trigger
threshold voltage (VR2). Rotate VR2 clockwise until the LED
just lights, then back it off slightly until the LED extinguishes.
This procedure sets the threshold of the trigger point.
At this stage the unit still cannot be triggered by approaching objects as the amplifier gain is set to zero (VR1 is fully
anticlockwise). Increase VR1 (clockwise) by small increments,
checking with a solid object brought in front of the transducers
at a distance of say, 500mm. You should find that a point is
reached where triggering is reliable. If you want a shorter range,
back VR1 off a little.
Conversely, a longer range can be achieved by increasing the
amplifier gain (ie, increasing VR1) but beyond a certain point
the unit will be permanently triggered, even with no objects
placed in front of the transducers. This is because the loop gain
Parts List
1 Ultrasonic Radar PC board, 96
x 50mm
1 plastic case to suit
1 panel label to suit
1 piezo or electro-mechanical
buzzer and/or 12V coil relay
(see text)
2 10mm M3 screws and nuts
2 5mm M3 spacers
Here’s how it all fits together in the disposals case from Oatley Electronics. The
buzzer shown is mounted under the dash or similar location inside the car.
is now greater than one, producing
permanent oscillation.
If you need higher range, the only
way that this oscillation can be
stopped is to introduce more acoustic
separation between the transducers.
When the desired settings are
achieved, the test link can be removed
and the unit mounted in an appropriate position on the vehicle.
Note that both the case (or the transducers if mounted remotely) will need
to be fairly well waterproofed if placed
in a position where they can be rained
on or splashed (and that’s most useful
positions on the rear of the car!).
Waterproof ultrasonic transducers
may be available shortly but at a
higher cost.
Power for the unit is most sensibly
taken from the reversing light circuit,
so that it is powered only when you are
reversing. Identifying a reversing light
Where to get the kit
This kit is available only from *Oatley
Electronics, who hold copyright on the
design and PC board. A complete kit of
parts including the case, label and some
cable is available for $24.00. A short-form
kit, including the PC board, all on-board
components and transducers, is $19.00
Oatley Electronics sell by mail, phone
and email/internet. You can contact them
on (02) 9548 3563, Fax (02) 9584 3561,
PO Box 89, Oatley NSW 2233, or by email
sales<at>oatleyelectronics.com. The website
is located at www.oatleyelectronics.com
shouldn’t be too difficult and you can
tap into the wiring using a “Scotchlok”
or similar connector. These need no
soldering – they pierce the wiring
insulation and make contact as you
squeeze them into position with a
pair of pliers.
A fuse is probably unnecessary
as the reversing light circuit itself is
fused.
The buzzer will need to be mounted
within hearing range – under the dashboard seems to make sense. Ordinary
(thin) figure-8 cable is quite OK for
this purpose. The buzzer shown in our
photographs is probably inadequate
for most cars because of its limited
output. However, there are plenty of
piezo and electro-magnetic buzzers
around which would be more than
loud enough.
We wouldn’t suggest using an alarm
piezo though – not if you value your
hearing, that is. With most of these
alarms designed to make a lot of noise
(around 100-110dB output), that’s just
a bit too loud for comfort!
SC
Semiconductors
1 4093B quad 2-input NAND
gate (IC1)
3 C8050 NPN transistors
(Q1, Q2, Q3)
2 1N60 germanium signal diodes
(D1, D2)
2 1N914 silicon signal diodes
(D3, 34)
1 GIG or 1N4004 power diode
(D5)
1 6.2V 400mW zener diode
1 5mm LED (any colour)
1 MA40A3S or equivalent
ultrasonic transmitter
transducer (TX1)
1 MA40A3R or equivalent
ultrasonic receiver
transducer (RX1)
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
3 1MΩ 1 100kΩ
1 12kΩ
3 10kΩ 2 2.2kΩ
1 470Ω
2 10kΩ trimpots
Capacitors
1 10µF 25VW PC electrolytic
3 10µF 16VW PC electrolytic
1 0.1µF polyester
(code: 104 or 100n)
4 .012µF polyester
(code: 123 or 12n)
Miscellaneous
Suitable lengths of hookup wire,
figure-8 cable and shielded cable,
“Scotchlok” or similar wiring
connectors, suitable mounting
nuts and bolts, solder, etc.
Resistor Colour Codes
No.
3
1
1
3
2
1
Value
1MΩ
100kΩ
12kΩ
10kΩ
2.2kΩ
470Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black green brown
brown black yellow brown
brown red orange brown
brown black orange brown
red red red brown
yellow violet brown brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black yellow brown
brown black black orange brown
brown red black red brown
brown black black red brown
red red black brown brown
yellow violet black black brown
FEBRUARY 2000 41
Light Emitting Polymers
. . . the new flexible flat-panel display technology
By JULIAN EDGAR
Imagine a flat panel display made out of plastic. Or how
about a panel that’s flexible and can made to conform to any
shape such as a car dashboard? That’s the promise offered by
new display technology based on semiconducting polymers.
42 Silicon Chip
O
VER THE LAST 30 YEARS,
there has been increasing interest in the use of plastic
polymers as conductors or semiconductors. Polymers that have semi
conducting characteristics are called
“conjugated” polymers and they
behave as semiconductors for reasons
that are different to those of inorganic
devices.
Despite this, semiconductor polymers are engineered using many of
the lessons learned with traditional
semiconductors. As a result, progress
in the use of semiconducting polymers
has been quite rapid.
This prototype light
emitting polymer
display screen has
been developed by
Cambridge Display
Technology.
How it started
Polymer semiconductor technology
was invented in 1989 at the Cavendish
Laboratory at Cambridge University
in the UK. It began when physicist
Richard Friend and chemist Andrew
Holmes were experimenting with
organic polymers. Quoted in the Cambridge “Alumni Magazine”, Holmes
says: “we started with a plastic material called PPV, made by a process
that allows it to be coated in thin films
over large surface areas. If the material
is chemically ‘doped’, it can conduct
electricity nearly as well as a good
metallic conductor”.
However, the two scientists were
interested in seeing how good the ‘undoped’ material was as an insulator.
“We sandwiched a thin film between
metal electrodes and subjected it to a
high voltage. What happened next was
pure serendipity. Someone switched
out the lights by mistake and the plastic was seen to emit a yellow-green
light. We had discovered the plastic
version of a light-emitting diode.”
In 1992, a company called Cambridge Display Technology was
formed to develop commercial applications for light-emitting polymers
(LEP), sometimes also called organic
light emitting diodes (OLED). Joint
ventures have since been signed
with Seiko-Epson, Philips, DuPont,
Hoechst and UNIAX.
Conductors
Conjugated polymers have found
their first uses as conductors. In fact,
doped conjugated polymers have
achieved conductivities close to that
of copper!
The potential commercial applications include battery electrodes,
conductive coatings for electrostatic
speakers, capacitor electrolytes,
transparent conductive coatings,
through-hole plating of PC boards and
electrostatic discharge coatings. Japanese company Matsushita is currently
using polypyrrole in the manufacture
of polymer capacitors, for example.
Another major goal is to use conducting polymers to replace the copper tracks on PC boards. However,
it will be necessary to improve the
stability of the highest conductivity
plastics before this can occur.
Another promising use for conducting polymers is in electromagnetic
shielding. That’s because of their relatively high conductivity and dielectric
constant. It’s also easy to control these
properties through chemical processing. Polyaniline is an especially
good candidate for electromagnetic
shielding.
How they work
Light emitting polymers sandwich
a thin-film semiconducting polymer
between two electrodes. Electrons and
holes are injected from the electrodes
and the recombination of these charge
carriers leads to luminescence. The
bandgap – ie, the energy difference
between the valance band and conduction band of the semiconducting
polymer – determines the wavelength
of the light that is emitted. Fig.1 shows
the basic layout.
To make a device, a very thin (50300nm) uniform coating of polymer
is spin-cast or extruded onto a glass
or plastic film substrate that has been
precoated with a transparent electrode material. The substrates can be
chosen freely, with flexible and even
3-dimensional substrates suitable for
use. The electrodes are either conducting oxides (indium tin oxide is often
used) or conducting polymers, with
one electrode transparent to allow the
light to escape.
In order to define the final configuration, the transparent electrode is
patterned before the polymer layer
is added. The other electrode is
deposited by vacuum metallisation
FEBRUARY 2000 43
TOP ELECTRODE
ORGANIC LAYER
BOTTOM ELECTRODE
GLASS SUBSTRATE
Fig.1: light emitting polymers consist of a polymer layer which is sandwiched
between two electrodes, one of which is transparent.
and patterned. The device is then
encapsulated in a hermetically-sealed
package.
In practice, multiple devices can be
fabricated on a single large substrate
which is then scribed and broken before the leads are attached. By manipulating the structure of the polymer,
light in the full colour spectrum of
450-740nm can be obtained.
Display technology
One hot topic of interest is the use
of conjugated polymers in display
technology. Five years ago, light output efficiencies of only 0.01 lumens/W
were being reported but recent developments have seen efficiencies 10,000
times higher. Indeed, the polymer mat
erials now being used have efficiencies close to that of inorganic LEDs.
The display lifetimes that are now
being quoted are also impressive. For
example, Philips recently measured a
display lifetime of more than 30,000
hours using light-emitting polymers.
The display has high brightness
and contrast and operates from only
The UNIAX company has recently
completed a prototype manufacturing
line to produce this flexible alpha
numeric display.
3.3V. Another company, UNIAX, has
recently completed a clean room and
prototype manufacturing line for its
first light emitting polymer product – a
flexible alphanumeric display.
One major advantage of polymer
displays is that the light emitting
device can be patterned by simple
pixellation of the metal. Large area
pixellated displays made from one
Table 1: Benefits Of Light Em itting Polym ers
Feature
LEP Processing
Benefit
Fast Swi tching Speed
Fl exibl e substrates possible; large area coatings.
No backlights required; no colour fil ters; no aperture
loss; 180° viewing angle.
Simple to define complex light emission patterns; very
high resolution possible wrequired; any pi xel size and
shape possible.
Battery dri ven devices; DC dri ve.
Innovati ve designs for end products; di spl ays shaped to
products; easy manufacturing i ntegration wi th product;
continuous coating for manufacture.
Video displ ay capabili ty.
Light Emi tting
Pattern Formation
Low Vol tage Operation
Formabl e Substrates
Light Weight
Portabili ty.
Solid State Devices
Ruggedness.
Thin Films
Allows use of pol ari sers to gi ve high contrast.
44 Silicon Chip
sheet are possible. Dot-matrix alphanumeric displays can also be made.
The commercial collaboration between Cambridge Display Technology
and Seiko-Epson is aimed at using
ink-jet technology to print the pixels
of the display directly on top of the
pixel switching elements in the active
matrix. It is hoped that this will lead
to the development of a fast-switching,
robust solid-sate device with a wide
viewing angle, that can be used as a
flat-screen display. When developed,
it should combine both thinness and
light weight with the look and feel of
a traditional colour CRT.
Thus far, this technology has only
been showcased in a small (50mm
square) b&w TV display that’s just
2mm thick! However, it’s being
suggested that when combined with
polysilicon TFT technology and inkjet
printing, light-emitting polymers will
deliver superior performance to existing display technologies such as LCDs.
Cambridge Display Technology
suggest that the advantages of the light
emitting polymer displays are varied
and many. Table 1 shows some of the
advantages cited by the company.
Recently, researchers at Princeton
in the US replaced the ink cartridges
of a conventional inkjet printer with
a polymer solution containing the
semiconducting polymer polyvinyl
carbazol (PVK) and a light-emitting
dye dissolved in a chloroform solvent.
This solution was then “printed” onto
a thin polyester film coated with indium tin oxide, which served as one of
the electrodes. Finally, they deposited
a metal film over the polymer layer to
form the other electrode.
This technique produced a
light-emitting polymer that emitted
green light. They then used the inkjet
printer to make dot patterns of PVK
mixed with either red, green or blue
dyes on the coated polyester film.
While this latter process has not yet
been used to develop light-emitting
polymers, it’s possible that this technology may lead to the development
of a large, flat screen with mixed red,
green and blue dot patterns.
This in turn could lead to full-colour plastic TV screens, or even car
indicator and dashboard lights that
blend seamlessly into the bodywork
and become visible only when they
are on. It could even lead to the
development of flexible TV and PC
SC
display screens.
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Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
Build a
“Safety Switch”
Checker
By JOHN CLARKE
Many homes now have “Safety Switches” installed on their mains
switchboards and these give a high level of protection against
electrocution from faulty appliances. But how do check that the
safety switch is protecting every power point? By using our
RCD Checker which is simple to build and even simpler to use.
S
INCE THE INTRODUCTION of
mandatory installation of RCDs
in all new homes, there has been
a huge increase in the availability of
these products. There is no doubt that
RCDs increase overall safety when using mains power and are a vital piece
of equipment when using power tools.
Indeed, under WorkCover regulations,
all tradesmen on building sites are
required to use RCDs when running
power tools.
Before we go too far in this article,
we should explain what an RCD is.
Features
* Suitable for home use, tradesmen, electricians, musicians, etc
* Creates an Earth leakage current to test RCD
* Push to test operation
* Neon indicator shows presence of power and checks internal components
* Neon indicator to check Earth connection and Active/Neutral terminals
* Suitable for type II RCDs (10-30mA rated residual current)
* Applies residual test current from 32.5mA at 192VAC to 45.5mA at 264VAC.
* Complies with Australian Standard AS 3190-1994 for RCD to trip at or
above rated residual current of 100% +5% -0% between 80% of rated
supply to 110% of rated supply (240VAC).
FEBRUARY 2000 53
Our RCD or “Safety Switch” checker is built into a plugpack supply case. It
simply plugs into the outlet to be checked.
“RCD” is an acronym for “Residual
Current Device”. While sometimes
called a “Current-operated Earth leakage device” most people refer to them
as a “safety switch”.
They protect the user from electrocution by disconnecting the 240VAC
supply if there is current flow to Earth.
The RCD does this by monitoring the
current flow between the Active and
Neutral lines for the 240VAC mains
supply. In a normally operating appliance there is current flow from the
Active lead through the appliance
and then back through the Neutral
lead. This is shown in Fig.1a. Both
currents i1 and i2 should be exactly
the same value.
If there is a fault in the appliance, as
shown in Fig.1b, some of the current
flowing from the Active lead may flow
to Earth (i3) instead of to Neutral. If
this is the case it may be that either
there is a breakdown in the appliance
between Active and Earth or someone
is conducting current away from Neutral via their body. In other words they
Fig.1a shows an appliance in normal
condition – earthed but with no
leakage. Fig.1b shows the same device
with a fault. Fig.1c shows the “self
test” in an RCD and Fig.1d shows how
our checker can tell whether the RCD
is operating correctly. All of these
diagrams are fully explained in the
text.
54 Silicon Chip
are suffering electrocution.
The RCD detects this difference between the Active and Neutral current
and disconnects the power should
the difference reach a predetermined
level. The difference between the
Active and Neutral current is called
the residual.
An RCD cannot protect against electrocution if the current flow through
the person is between Active and Neu-
tral. This is because the RCD cannot
differentiate between appliance current and current through your body.
(The moral of this is never to work on
an appliance which is connected to
the 240VAC mains supply!)
Note that any appliance with exposed metal parts can become an
electrocution hazard and this includes
many appliances which are labelled
as “double insulated”. All that has
to happen is a for a leakage path to
develop between the Active mains
terminal in the equipment and the
exposed metal parts; ie, usually the
case. Then, if the case is not earthed,
it will be live and a potential cause of
electrocution if a person touches it.
There are several types of RCDs.
Type I RCDs have a rated residual
current of 10mA and a 40ms tripping
time. Type II have a rated residual
current of between 10 and 30mA and
40ms tripping time at 500% residual
over-current. It takes some 300ms to
trip at the rated residual current.
Type III RCDs have a rated residual
current of between 30 and 300mA
and a 50ms tripping time at the 500%
residual current. Finally, type IV has
type III current characteristics with
selectable tripping times. Type II RCDs
are the most frequently encountered.
You should test your RCDs periodically with their own self-test switches.
But this does not tell the whole story.
Firstly, the self-test switch on the RCD
merely tests its own operation. It does
Fig. 2: the circuit of
the RCD Checker
could hardly be
simpler: three
resistors, two neons
and a switch!
Just remember that
all this is at mains
potential and no
RCD Checker can
protect you against
an active/neutral
path. Never work
on a plugged-in RCD
Checker.
not tell you which power points are
protected.
If you have an RCD installed in
your switchboard, you can use the
checker to test each power point for
its operation; not all power points will
necessarily be connected.
Secondly, power points which include an RCD do protect other power
points connected to it but only those
that are “down line” from it – that
is, further along the mains circuit
from the switchboard than the power
point concerned. You can use the RCD
Checker again to find out those which
are protected and those which are not.
Third, if you are using power in
a premises where you are uncertain
about the presence of an RCD, you
can test for this on each power point.
Finally, electricians can use the
RCD Checker to verify that their installation is effective on each power
point. Using the RCD Checker to trip
out an RCD is a very convincing test
of its effectiveness.
there is no access to the Neutral input
side of the RCD at the power point.
The full circuit is shown in Fig.2. It
comprises two Neon indicators, some
resistors and a pushbutton switch.
The “Valid Earth” Neon connected
between Active and Earth lights to
show there is an Active supply and a
connection to Earth. This indicator is
useful to verify that the Earth circuit
exists on the power point. If there is
no Earth connection, the RCD Checker
cannot trip the RCD under test and
the power point should be checked
before using it.
The “Power/Test” Neon monitors
the Active and Neutral supply via the
test current resistors, R1, R2 & R3. The
Parts List
1 3-pin plugpack case (Jaycar
HB-5900 or equivalent)
1 RCD Checker label, 40 x 32mm
1 250VAC plastic pushbutton
momentary SPST switch (S1,
Jaycar SP-0716, DSE P-7568,
Altronics S-1080)
2 plastic Neon bezels with
resistor (Jaycar SL-2630, DSE
P-8116, P-8117, Altronics
S-4016)
1 small cordgrip grommet to fill
hole in case
1 100mm length of blue 250VAC
7.5A 250VAC wire
1 200mm length of brown
250VAC 7.5A 250VAC wire
1 100mm length of green/yellow
250VAC 7.5A 250VAC wire
1 20mm length of 1mm insulating
tubing
1 20mm length of 3mm
heatshrink tubing
1 100mm length of 12mm ID
heatshrink tubing
1 small cable tie
Resistors
2 2.2kΩ 5W wirewound resistors
1 1.5kΩ 5W wirewound resistor
Miscellaneous
Neutral-cure silicone sealant
Test method
So how does the test switch for an
RCD work? Fig.1c shows the circuit
for the internal self-test method used
on an RCD. When the test switch
is closed, the Active current passes
through resistor R1 to the Neutral on
the input side of the RCD. Thus all the
current through R1 is assumed by the
RCD to be the residual. R1 is chosen
to trip the RCD between 80% to 110%
of rated voltage (eg, from 192VAC to
264VAC for a unit rated at 240VAC).
Fig.1d shows the circuit for the
SILICON CHIP RCD Checker. In this case
the test current flows from the Active
to Earth. We have used this method for
two reasons. First, because it simulates
a true Earth fault and also because
Compare this “opened out” photo of the RCD Checker with the wiring diagram
(Fig.3,) while building your checker. While it is very simple, take extra care – it
is a mains device, after all!
FEBRUARY 2000 55
Neon will only light if the three resistors are in circuit and there is power
from the Active to Neutral. When the
test switch is pressed, the Power/Test
Neon will go out and residual current
will flow from Active to Earth. The
Valid Earth Neon will stay alight until
power is disconnected.
So if you are using the RCD Checker
and you press the button, both Neons
will go out for an RCD that is working
properly. Note that the switch must be
held down for at least 300ms (1/3rd
of a second) to ensure that the RCD is
given sufficient time to trigger.
Construction
The RCD Checker is constructed
in a plugpack case with the switch
and two Neons mounted on the case
lid. The three resistors mount around
the mains pins inside the case. Fig.3
shows the wiring details.
Begin construction by drilling the
holes for the switch and two Neons.
These are drilled as shown in Fig.4.
Insert and secure the two Neons and
pushbutton in place. The front panel
label (Fig.5) fits into the rectangular
moulding above the Neons and switch.
Use the wiring diagram of Fig.4
when connecting up the components.
Assembled and ready to go, this side-on shot shows how neat a package the
plugpack case makes. The cord entry grommet (on the bottom) is not used and
for safety, the hole should be sealed with silicone sealant.
The resistors are placed around the
plug pins with a short length of insulating sleeving on the resistor lead
connecting to the Active pin. Solder
the resistor leads together and secure
a brown mains wire to the free end of
the 1.5kΩ resistor and insulate it with
a short length of heatshrink tubing.
The wiring to the Neons and switch
must be followed carefully and use
250VAC-rated wire. Slip a short length
of heatshrink tubing over the Neon
and switch body before connecting
the wires. Then pull the tubing up
over the terminals and shrink it with
a heat gun.
Secure the resistors with some silicone sealant (neutral-cure acid free,
eg, roof and gutter sealant) and cover
the resistor wires with a dob as well.
Leave to cure overnight. Secure the wires together with
a cable tie.
The case has a cord entry
point at the lower righthand side which must be
filled to prevent accidental
contact with any internal
wiring. We used a small cord
grip grommet in the hole
which effectively sealed off
the opening. Alternatively,
the hole could be “plugged”
with some more silicone
sealant.
Secure the case together
using the supplied screws,
with the two longer ones at
the top.
Checking operation
Fig.3: wiring the checker should take no more than about half an hour – ten minutes
to assemble, then twenty minutes to check your work before it is plugged in.
56 Silicon Chip
Plug the RCD Checker
into the power point and
switch on the power point
switch. Both Neons should
light. The power/test Neon
will light to indicate supply
between the Active and
Neutral and that the test
resistors are in circuit.
If it does not light, check
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Fig. 4 (left): drilling details
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Nicads and NIMH batteries: Power tools
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Video cameras Field test instruments
RC models incl. indoor flight Laptops
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Fig. 5 (above): the samesize label which fits the
cut-out in the Jaycar
HB-5900 plugpack case.
the resistors for continuity and correct
value and that there is power available.
The Earth Neon will light to show
there is an Earth connection on the
power point. If this does not light,
you either have the Active and Neutral connections in the power point
transposed or there is a faulty earth
connection.
Either way, you should
engage a licensed electrician
to correct the problem.
Pressing the Test switch
for half a second (ie, more
than 300ms) should trip the
RCD. Both Neons should extinguish and the RCD should
show that it has tripped.
If it has not tripped, check
that the RCD can be tripped
with its own self-test switch.
Any faulty RCD should be
immediately replaced.
If the RCD can be tripped with its
own test switch but not with the RCD
Checker, check the rated trip current.
The SILICON CHIP RCD Checker is for
use with 10-30mA RCDs only and
will not test type III RCDs which will
take a higher residual current before
SC
tripping.
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Designed for maximum battery capacity
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DESIGNED AND MADE IN AUSTRALIA
For a FREE, detailed technical description please
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Silicon Chip
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REAL
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PLUS
ACTIVE/NEUTRAL TRANSPOSITION
Until fairly recently, the connection of the Active and Neutral lines to a
power outlet was not given the careful attention that it is today. In many older
houses (say, pre 1950) you often find the Active and Neutral lines transposed,
or swapped at the power point. (In a correctly wired outlet, when you look at
the three “holes” from the front, the active is on the left side and the neutral
on the right. Earth, of course, is ALWAYS at the bottom (vertical).
Indeed, until the late 1960s "double adaptors” were sold which themselves
transposed Active and Neutral! Of course, devices still work when plugged
into transposed outlets and RCDs also work. It’s normally only a combination
of appliance and earth faults which brings out the horrors of an Active/Neutral
transposition.
This device will not check RCDs where the Active and Neutral are transposed.
However, it is very useful for determining whether you have an Active/Neutral
transposition. If you have a power point which is known to work but the “valid
earth” neon does not light, treat it with suspicion. It could be a broken or high
resistance earth – which of course must be fixed immediately – or it could be
an Active/Neutral transposition.
It’s worth having the outlet checked out by a licenced electrician – for your
piece of mind and your safety.
P&P
Heavy board covers with 2-tone
green vinyl covering
Each binder holds up to 14 issues
SILICON CHIP logo printed on spine
& cover
Price: $A12.95 plus $A5 p&p each
(Australia only)
Just fill in & mail the handy order form
in this issue; or fax (02) 9979 6503;
or ring (02) 9979 5644 & quote your
credit card number.
FEBRUARY 2000 57
By RICK WALTERS
Build this sine/square
wave oscillator for
your workbench
Do you want a good quality audio oscillator
that does not go “boingg” when you switch
ranges? And has constant output amplitude
as you sweep over each range and from
range to range? If so, this could be the
oscillator for you. It covers the frequency
range from 2Hz to 20kHz and is suitable for
a wide range of audio applications.
58 Silicon Chip
N
ORMALLY, THE FIRST choice
of anyone contemplating
building or buying an audio
oscillator is a Wein bridge type. These
have the advantage of low distortion
(usually) but their output amplitude
often bounces all over the place as
you sweep over each frequency range
and is even worse when you switch
ranges. It is possible to avoid these
problems with careful design but the
circuit will end up being more com-
Fig.1: block diagram of the oscillator.
IC1c is a high frequency oscillator
and its output is divided by 1, 10,
100 or 1000 by IC7b or IC8. It is then
further divided by 2 and 5 before
being applied to a divide-by-10
ring counter (IC2a, IC4 & IC5). This
drives a resistor network which
produces a stepped waveform which
is fed to switched capacitor filter,
IC6.
plicated (see our low distortion design
in the February & March 1999 issues).
The second choice for an audio oscillator is typically a function generator but while these usually have good
amplitude stability, their distortion
content is usually fairly average. But
now you have a third choice with this
design which uses digitally generated
sinewaves and employs a switched
capacitor filter.
While thumbing through the Jaycar Electronics catalog some time
ago, I came across an “IC bargain”,
an MF4CH-50 4th order switched
capacitor Butterworth low-pass filter,
for the trivial sum of $1.50. This set
me thinking (I do that occasionally)
about what level of distortion we
would get if we fed a pseudo sinewave
(digitally generated) into that sort
of filter. Many moons later, this low
cost audio oscillator is the outcome
of those profound thoughts.
The oscillator is housed in a plastic zippy box measuring 157 x 95 x
50mm. It has three knobs on the front
panel and these are the 4-position
range switch, the frequency control
and the sinewave output control. As
well, there is a toggle power switch
and three RCA sockets for the sinewave output and two square wave
outputs. The circuit is battery operated but could be run from a plugpack
if you wish; more on that later.
Theory of operation
Before we go too far, we need
to explain just what is a 4th-order
switched capacitor Butterworth lowpass filter. Let’s do the low-pass filter
first because it’s easy: as its name sug
gests, a low-pass filter is one that lets
low frequencies through (passes) but
progressively blocks (attenuates) the
higher ones. The frequency at which
the response is 3dB down is called
the turnover frequency.
Now what does 4th-order mean?
A 1st order low-pass filter has an
attenuation slope of 6dB per octave
above the turnover frequency and
so a 4th-order has four times this or
Performance
•
•
•
•
•
Sinewave output ...............................................2Hz - 20kHz, 0-2V RMS
Square-wave output ................................2Hz - 20kHz, 5V peak-to-peak
Square-wave x100 output ....................200Hz - 2MHz, 5V peak-to-peak
Sinewave distortion ....................................................... less than 0.85%
Current consumption............................. 15mA from +5V, 6mA from -5V
24dB per octave. This steep rolloff of
high frequencies is used to get rid of
the higher harmonics of our digital
sinewave.
The term Butterworth describes
a filter response which is flat (0dB)
until it begins to roll off. Other types
of filters have a peak or ripples in the
response before the rolloff begins. For
audio work, the Butterworth response
is usually the best and most suitable.
Switched capacitor filters
Any conventional filter circuit
can be designed to roll off at any
given frequency but this frequency
can only be altered by changing the
relevant resistor or capacitor values.
For a 4th-order filter, this would mean
changing the values of four resistors or
four capacitors in precisely the same
ratio. This makes things very complicated because an oscillator based on
a variable 4th-order filter would then
need a five ganged potentiometer, or
a five ganged capacitor (if we include
one for the actual frequency control).
In practice, this approach would be
just too expensive.
This is where the MF4CH-50
switched-capacitor filter comes into
the picture. It has four internal capacitors which are rapidly switched in
and out of circuit to vary their values.
Furthermore, the more rapidly they
are switched, the less the effective
capacitance.
FEBRUARY 2000 59
60 Silicon Chip
More specifically, the turnover
filter frequency of the MF4CH-50 is
1/50th of its clock frequency, so if we
clocked it at 50kHz it would begin to
rolloff at 1kHz.
Fig.1 shows the general concept
of the oscillator and IC6 is the
MF4CH-50 switched capacitor filter.
IC1c is a high frequency oscillator
and its output is divided by 1, 10,
100 or 1000 by IC7b or IC8. It is then
further divided by 2 and 5 before
being applied to a divide-by-10 ring
counter (IC2a, IC4 & IC5). This drives
a resistor network which produces a
stepped waveform which is a very
rough approximation of a sinewave
which is 1/50th of the frequency
output from IC2b.
IC6, the MF4CH-50, is also clocked
by the output of IC2b and so its turnover frequency exactly matches the
output of the ring counter. It effectively removes the switching hash
from the waveform, leaving a clean
sinewave.
Circuit description
The circuit of Fig.2 is a little more
complex but operates as we have just
explained. While it may look to have
a lot of circuit elements, it uses only
nine low-cost ICs.
Let’s start with IC1c, the master
oscillator. It is a 74HC132 quad NAND
gate with Schmitt trigger inputs
configured as an oscillator, with the
maximum and minimum frequencies
adjusted using trimpots VR2 and VR3.
These are set so that the sinewave frequency varies from just under 2kHz to
just over 20kHz on the highest range
and potentiometer VR1 then becomes
the main frequency control.
The frequencies for the other three
ranges are generated by successively
dividing this main frequency by 10
in IC8 and IC7b.
These four frequencies are fed to
range switch S1a which directs the
selected frequency to IC2b (one section of a 4013 dual-D flipflop) and also
Fig.2 (left): the master oscillator is
IC1c and since it is a Schmitt device
it requires trimpots VR2 & VR3 to set
the maximum and minimum
frequencies. Both IC1a & IC1b are
unused but their inputs have been
tied to related parts of the circuit.
The circuit can be powered from a 9V
plugpack, as shown in Fig.12.
to IC1d which inverts and buffers the
signal and feeds it to the front panel
as SQUARE x 100.
This signal is only an exact square
wave on the lower three ranges which
come from IC8 and IC7b. The top
range comes direct from IC1c and its
output is not a true square wave but
has a high time of around 45% (the
low time being 55%) of the oscillator’s
frequency. As the oscillator output is
inverted by gate IC1d, the high and
low periods are also inverted (55:45).
IC2b divides the selected frequency from S1a by two, giving an exact
square wave which is required for
the clock input of IC6, the switched
capacitor filter. IC2b also drives IC3,
a 4017 connected to divide by five.
The output of IC3, pin 10, is fed to
the clock inputs of flipflops IC2a, IC4b
& IC4a and IC5b & IC5a. These five
flipflops are connected as a twisted
ring counter which divides the clock
frequency by 10. The Q outputs of
four of the flipflops are summed by the
10kΩ and 16kΩ resistors to produce a
stepped waveform and this is fed to
the input of the switched capacitor
filter, IC6.
The stepped input waveform and
the filtered output can be seen in the
scope waveforms of Fig.3. Quite a
dramatic improvement, eh?
Twisted ring counter
What’s a twisted ring counter we
hear you asking? In a normal D-type
flipflop (such as IC2b), the Qbar
output (pin 12) is connected back to
the D input (pin 9). This causes the
Q output to change from high to low
and back to high again on sequential
low to high transitions of the clock
signal at pin 11.
In our twisted ring counter the Qbar
output of IC5a is tied back to the D
input of IC2a. Assuming the Qbar
output of IC5a was low, the Q output
of IC2a would be low and this low
would then be propagated through
the chain until the low level was
applied to IC5a. This would cause
the Q output to go low and the Qbar
output to go high. Thus a high would
be presented to pin 5 of IC2a and it
would be propagated through the
chain. It is “twisted” because a low
level on IC5a’s Q output (the main
output) propagates a high through the
chain and vice versa.
While it is hard to visualise, what
happens is that a high is moved
Parts List
1 PC board, code 04102001, 149
x 71mm
1 plastic box, 50mm x 90mm x
150mm with aluminium lid
1 front panel label, 150 x 85mm
1 2-pole 6-position PC mount
rotary switch with two nuts (S1)
1 DPDT miniature toggle switch
(S2)
3 panel-mount RCA sockets
2 25kΩ linear potentiometers
(VR1, VR4)
3 knobs to suit
1 2kΩ horizontal mounting
trimpot (VR2)
1 200kΩ horizontal mounting
trimpot (VR3)
2 9V batteries
2 battery snap connectors
Semiconductors
1 74HC132 quad NAND Schmitt
trigger (IC1)
3 4013 dual D flipflop
(IC2,IC4,IC5)
1 4017 decade divider (IC3)
1 MF4CH-50 switched capacitor
filter (IC6)
2 74HC390 dual decade divider
(IC7,IC8)
1 TL071 op amp (IC9)
1 78L05 5V regulator (REG1)
1 79L05 -5V regulator (REG2)
Capacitors
1 100µF 16VW PC electrolytic
1 10µF 16VW PC electrolytic
4 0.1µF monolithic ceramic
1 .033µF MKT polyester
1 .0033µF MKT polyester
1 820pF 10% ceramic
1 330pF 10% ceramic
1 220pF 10% ceramic
1 33pF 10% ceramic
Resistors (1%, 0.25W)
1 68kΩ
3 10kΩ
1 47kΩ
2 3.3kΩ
1 33kΩ
1 1kΩ
2 16kΩ
For 9V AC plugpack operation
Delete 9V batteries and snap
connectors
1 panel mounting connector to
suit 9V AC plugpack
2 1N4001, 1N4004 power diodes
2 100µF 25VW PC electrolytic
capacitors
1 tag strip
FEBRUARY 2000 61
The PC board is mounted on the back
of rotary switch S1 which in turn is
mounted on the front panel. However,
you may prefer to further secure the
board to the front panel by fitting
a mounting pillar at each corner,
particularly if the unit is going to be
moved about.
through the ring and this is followed
by four more highs. As each Q output
goes high, the stepped waveform of
Fig.3 is produced by summing the Q
outputs. Once the first high reaches
pin 1 of IC5a (pin 2 will be low), a
series of lows is shifted through the
ring, causing the steps to fall towards
0V and this cycle repeats over and
over.
The clock frequency fed to the ring
counter is also divided by 10 in IC7a,
giving a true square wave output at
the same frequency as the sinewave
output.
We found that the output amplitude from IC6 (MF4CH-50) increased
on the highest range, starting from
around 10kHz. The resistor/capacitor
network between the output of IC6
and the sinewave level control VR4
help to flatten the output in this region
although even with these components
the response is still +1dB at 20kHz.
Op amp IC9 is used as a sinewave
output buffer with a gain of 3, to
62 Silicon Chip
make up for the losses in IC6 and the
two 3.3kΩ resistors in series with the
output level control (VR4). It also sets
the maximum output level to 2V RMS.
While the switched capacitor filter
does a good job of producing a clean
sinewave, there is still some switching hash present and we do some
more filtering in IC9. This is done by
using S1b, the second pole of S1, to
switch a capacitor across the feedback
resistor of IC9 on each range. This
helps to attenuate the high frequency
switching spikes. This causes a rather
interesting effect. The measured distortion actually decreases slightly as
the frequency increases on each range,
rather than the normal case where the
distortion increases as the frequency
increases.
Mind you, since the hash is 50 times
the fundamental, it is not the slightest bit audible until the fundamental
frequency drops below about 200Hz.
The sinewave output is symmetrical above and below the 0V line
(ground) and is variable from 0V to
2V RMS which should be sufficient
for any normal audio work.
We fitted two voltage regulators
on the PC board and these are fine
for battery operation. If you plan to
use a plugpack you will need to add
two capacitors and two diodes which
can be wired to a tag strip. This is
explained in more detail later.
Output & distortion waveforms
As noted in the performance panel,
the distortion content of the sinewave output is less than 0.85% but
this depends on the frequency and
the bandwidth of the measurement.
The scope wave
forms of Figs.4, 5,
6 & 7 demonstrate this. Fig.4 shows
a 1.1kHz waveform on the top trace
and the lower trace is the modulated
distortion product which is mainly
the 50kHz switching hash. This is
equivalent to a harmonic distortion
content of 0.83%, taken with a measurement bandwidth of 80kHz (ie, all
Fig.3: these scope diagrams show the operation of the
switched capacitor filter (IC6). The top trace is the
stepped waveform and the lower trace is the sinewave
output.
Fig.4: the sinewave output at 1.1kHz (top) has a very slight
“jagginess” due to 50kHz switching artefacts. The lower
trace is the modulated distortion product – mainly the
50kHz switching hash (0.83% THD <at> 80kHz bandwidth).
Fig.5: a 1kHz waveform is shown on the top trace, while
the lower trace is the distortion waveform, measured with
a bandwidth of 22kHz. (THD 0.26%).
Fig.6: the top trace is a 10kHz sinewave while the lower
trace is the residual harmonic content measured with an
80kHz bandwidth (THD 0.285%).
Fig.7: the top trace is the sinewave output at 19.6kHz
and the lower trace is the distortion which has a level of
0.76%, measured with a bandwidth of 80kHz.
Fig.8: the 20kHz sinewave output (top) and the squarewave output. The lefthand cursor is not set correctly and
so the frequency measurement of 20.7kHz is wrong.
FEBRUARY 2000 63
Fig.9: this is the component layout for the PC board and it also shows the wiring to the front panel.
harmonics and noise up to 80kHz are
included in the measurement).
Fig.5 shows a 1kHz waveform on
the top trace but this time the distortion waveform on the lower trace has
been measured with a bandwidth of
22kHz. This has removed most of the
50kHz hash from the measurement
and results in a THD figure of 0.26%.
The top waveform of Fig.6 is a
10kHz sinewave and the lower trace is
64 Silicon Chip
the residual harmonic content measured with an 80kHz bandwidth. The
result is a distortion measurement of
0.285%. Note that for an output at
10kHz, the switching hash would be
at 500kHz and this would be well and
truly eliminated by an 80kHz filter.
Fig.7 shows the output waveform
at 19.6kHz and its accompa
nying
residual distortion which has a level
of 0.76%, measured with a bandwidth
of 80kHz. In this case the switching
hash would be at 980kHz.
Finally, Fig.8 shows two waveforms
at 20kHz. The top is the sinewave
output and the lower trace is the
accompanying square wave output.
Construction
All the circuit components, with
the exception of the two potentiometers, are mounted on a PC board
We used double-sided tape to secure the batteries but you might prefer to use
battery holders fastened to the bottom of the case.
measuring 149 x 71mm and coded
04102001. The component wiring
diagram and the connections inside
the case are shown in Fig.9.
While we have made provision for
mounting pillars at each corner of
the PC board, our method of mounting is somewhat simpler – we just
supported it on the back of the rotary
switch, S1.
It is a good idea to check the PC
board against the artwork of Fig.11
before beginning the assembly. Check
for any undrilled holes or broken or
open circuit tracks and fix any defects
that you find.
Capacitor Codes
Value
IEC Code EIA Code
0.1µF 100n 104
.033µF 33n 333
.0033µF 3n3 332
820pF 820p 821
330pF 330p 331
220pF 220p 221
33pF 33p 33
Resistor Colour Codes
No.
1
1
1
2
3
2
1
Value
68kΩ
47kΩ
33kΩ
16kΩ
10kΩ
3.3kΩ
1kΩ
4-Band Code (1%)
blue grey orange brown
yellow violet orange brown
orange orange orange brown
brown blue orange brown
brown black orange brown
orange orange red brown
brown black red brown
5-Band Code (1%)
blue grey black red brown
yellow violet black red brown
orange orange black red brown
brown blue black red brown
brown black black red brown
orange orange black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
FEBRUARY 2000 65
The connections between the PC board and the front panel hardware can be
run using light-duty hookup wire. Keep the lead lengths reasonably short to
maintain a neat appearance (you can use cable ties if you wish).
tion correct (not upside down) before
soldering the 12 outer lugs.
The locking tab on the switch can
now be set to position 4 (so that the
switch has only four positions). This
done, solder the battery leads to the
switch and complete the wiring, as
shown in Fig.9. By the way, we used
a zippy box with an aluminium front
panel as the frequency control is sensitive to hand capacitance.
If you wish to use a plugpack instead
of batteries, you will need a 9V AC
plugpack and a rectifier circuit wired
to provide positive and negative supplies, as shown in Fig.12. This circuit
consists of positive and a negative
half-wave rectifiers, each feeding a
100µF electrolytic capacitor. The extra
components can be wired onto a length
of tagstrip.
Testing the oscillator
This view shows how the PC board is
supported on the back of the rotary switch.
Note that this switch mounts on the copper
side of the board.
Begin by installing the PC pins,
wire links and resistors, followed by
the trimpots and IC sockets, which are
optional. This done, insert the smaller capacitors, followed by the two
electrolytic capacitors which must be
installed the right way around.
Next, solder in the CMOS ICs. To do
this, earth the barrel of your soldering
iron to the 0V line on the PC board and
solder the supply pins of each IC first,
followed by the other pins.
You can now install the two regulators. Make sure that you put each one
in the correct position otherwise the
circuit definitely won’t work.
must fit two wire links on the back of
the switch as shown in Fig.10. This
done, insert it in the PC board from
the copper side. The lugs should be
flush with the laminate side.
Check that you have the orienta
Calibrating the oscillator
Rotary switch mounting
The rotary switch is mounted on the
copper side of the PC board (as shown
in the photos) and this means that it
is impossible to solder the two centre
pins of the switch to the PC board.
Therefore, before you mount it, you
66 Silicon Chip
You will need a multimeter and a
frequency counter or an oscilloscope
to calibrate the oscillator.
Turn on the batteries or plugpack.
Check for +5V at pin 7 of IC9 and -5V
at pin 4. These voltages should be
within 0.5V. If the voltages are correct
turn off the power and insert the ICs if
you used sockets. Power up again and
check for +5V on pin 14 of IC1, IC2,
IC4 & IC5, pin 16 of IC3, IC7 & IC8,
and pin 7 of IC6. Also check for -5V
on pin 4 of IC6.
With the sine level control fully
clockwise and the 200Hz - 2kHz range
selected, you should measure about
5.6V peak-to-peak with your oscilloscope. If using your multimeter, you
should be able to measure 2V RMS at
the sinewave output.
Using an oscilloscope or a frequency
counter check that the X1 square wave
frequency is the same as the sinewave
frequency and that the x100 output is
also correct.
Fig.10: the two centre pins of
the rotary switch must be wired
as shown before it is installed
on the copper side of the PC
board.
The last step is to calibrate the
oscillator. Turn VR3 and VR1 fully
clockwise and adjust VR2 until the
sine
wave frequency is 20.5kHz on
the 2-20kHz range. Now turn VR1
fully anticlockwise and adjust VR3
until the frequency is 1.95kHz. There
will be some interaction between the
two presets, so you may have to make
these adjustments a couple of times to
get the frequencies just right. As the
lower ranges are generated by digital
division they will track exactly.
Fig.11: here are the actual size artworks for the PC board and the front panel.
If you cannot get the frequency adjustment right, set VR3 and VR1 fully
clockwise and VR2 to centre. Check
the oscillator frequency then alter the
220pF capacitor on pin 10 of IC1c until
you are close to 20.5kHz. Then follow
the calibration instructions once again.
If the frequency is too high, fit an
extra capacitor in the holes adjacent to
the 220pF capacitor. If the frequency
is 20% high, add a 47pF capacitor.
Conversely, if the frequency is low
you will have to reduce the 220pF to
180pF or less, then perhaps fit a small
SC
value as described above.
Fig.12: use this circuit if you wish to power the
oscillator from a 9V AC plugpack.
FEBRUARY 2000 67
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions from
readers are welcome and will be paid for at standard rates.
Using a photo-interrupter
as a train detector
The most common approach to
detecting trains on model rail
way
layouts is based on detecting the
current drain of locomotives on sections of track (Twin-T detectors etc)
or uses reed relays under the track
with magnets attached to the rolling
stock. A more convenient approach
is to use light beams but this means
you usually have to devise your own
optical detectors.
This approach makes use of the
photo interrupters used in many
printers. The interrupter is a slotted
module with an infrared light emitting
diode in one half and a photo transistor in the other. By cutting the inter-
rupter in half and positioning the two
halves on either side of a section of
track, you have a good train detector.
The circuit feeds the voltage from
the emitter of the photo-transistor to
the input of a Schmitt trigger gate and
its output drives a transistor and relay.
The idea can be extended to suit a
range of model railway applications,
with the Schmitt trigger being used
to trigger flipflops for signalling and
automatic reversing circuits and so on.
Suitable photo interrupters are
available from Jaycar Electronics (Cat.
ZD-1901).
SILICON CHIP.
How to cut clean holes
in plastic front panels
Monitor for 12V
SLA batteries
One of the disadvantages of
sealed lead acid (SLA) batteries is
that if they are too far discharged
they become permanently damaged
and cannot be recharged. Therefore
it is good practice to make sure
that 12V SLA batteries are not
discharged below 11V.
This little circuit monitors the
output of a 12V SLA battery and
can be set to light a flashing LED
when the voltage drops below
11.3V. IC1 is an LM336 2.5V reference and is connected to the noninverting input (pin 3) of op amp
IC2 which is connected as a com68 Silicon Chip
parator. The battery being monitored also powers the circuit and a
portion of its output is fed to pin 2
via trimpot VR1. When pin 2 drops
below pin 3, the output at pin 6
goes high to turn on transistor Q1
and the flashing LED.
The base of Q1 is fed via a voltage
divider consisting of the 15kΩ and
10kΩ resistors, to ensure that Q1
does not turn on when the output
of IC2 is low.
VR1 should be set so that the
LED flashes when the circuit voltage drops to around 11.3V, to give
adequate warning of exces
sive
discharge.
Laurie Marshall,
Barrack Point, NSW. ($30)
This method for cutting round holes
came about as a result of the article on
making front panels in the February
1999 issue. The suggested method of
cutting the holes using a sharp scalpel
can be rather tedious, especially if
quite a few holes are required.
My method is to use a wad punch
(a hollow punch), rubber mallet and
a block of wood to make the holes. If
the sizes of the holes in the artwork are
made so as to be just visible around
the circumference of the wad punch,
a perfectly placed hole will be achiev
ed every time without the danger of
slipping and ruining the whole panel.
A set of 12 cheap wad punches covering the range 3.2mm to 19mm can be
obtained for around $15 and are adequate for this application. For smaller
holes (eg, for LEDs and screws), a
handheld leather punch can be used.
I apply a self-adhesive laminate (no
laminating machine required) to both
sides of my artwork to make them
stiffer and more durable. Small panels
don’t need to be glued on and can be
held in place by the hardware.
Barry Hubble,
Moulden, NT. ($25)
12V fan controller
for lower noise
If you wish to use a 12V computer fan for general cooling or
you want to add it as an extra to
your computer, you may find it
worthwhile to cut the speed as it
can make a big difference to the
noise it produces without cutting
the airflow too much.
This circuit provides an extra
benefit of temperature control by
incorporating a thermistor so the
fan will be run at full speed as
necessary.
Op amp IC1 is connected as a
comparator and the thermistor is
connected to its inverting input,
pin 2. The non-inverting input,
pin 3, is connected to trimpot VR1
and this provides the means for
setting the temperature.
The thermistor has a negative
temperature coefficient (NTC) and
when the temperature is high its
resistance will be low. This causes
the voltage at pin 2 of IC1 to be
low. If pin 2 is below the set-point
of VR1, the output at pin 6 will
be high and this will switch on
transistor Q1 and the relay.
As the thermistor is cooled by
airflow from the fan, its resistance
will rise, the voltage at pin 2 will
also rise and the op amp’s output
will switch low, causing Q1 and
the relay to switch off.
Since the 741 op amp cannot
switch its output to 0V but only
to about +2V or so, a 4.7V zener
diode is connected in series with
the base of Q1 to prevent it turning
on when the output is low.
The 1MΩ positive feedback
resistor between pins 3 & 6 of
op amp IC1 provides a degree of
hysteresis so that the relay does
not chatter at close to the switching point.
The 30Ω 1W resistor may need
to be varied to suit your 12V fan
but should be selected to give
around 8V across the fan motor
when the relay is off. The thermistor should be mounted on
the object to be cooled or in the
airflow from the fan.
Paul Walsh,
Montmorency, Vic ($30)
Constant current load
for power supply testing
While resistive loads can be used when testing
power supplies and driver circuits, if the current
is DC, it is better to use a semiconductor constant
current load. This has the advantage that it can be set
to provide any desired current and it will maintain
it even in the supply voltage varies.
With this circuit, taken from a Maxim application
note, you can select a current within a range up to
1A or 10A with switch S2 and then precisely set
the current with potentiometer VR3 which ideally
should be a 10-turn type for high setting accuracy.
IC1 is a 1.2V bandgap reference and it provides
a very precise voltage reference for the circuit. Its
output is fed via resistors to trimpots VR1 and VR2
and then to pin 3 of op amp IC2. These trimpots are
adjusted to provide 1V for the 10A range and 100mV
for the 1A range.
IC2 and Mosfet Q1 are connected so that the voltage
across the 0.1Ω resistor is maintained at the same level as
that set at pin 3; ie, it maintains a constant current. The
Mosfet needs to be mounted on a large heatsink and the circuit is suitable for testing at supply voltages between about
2V and 50V. Note that it could not handle a 50V supply
at 10A; the total dissipation of 500W would vaporise Q1!
Note that the op amp must be able to switch its output
to 0V and its input common mode range must be able to
go to 0V.
SILICON CHIP.
FEBRUARY 2000 69
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PRODUCT SHOWCASE
Pro Soldering Setup from Altronics
Whether
your interest is at advanced
hobbyist level or perhaps more in the
manufacturing/assembly area, two
new products from Altronics Distributors are worth a second look. Together
they could form a very professional
soldering set-up.
First is the Micron Soldering Station (Cat T2438), offering electronic
temperature control to ±2°C over a
200° – 500°C range, with digital temperature display. The station features
a long-life Japanese ceramic heater
element and new tip/heater design
and the iron itself has an iron-clad
long-life tip. Zero-voltage switching
is used. This not only minimises RFI
but also helps prevent voltage spikes
at the iron tip which may damage
sensitive devices.
Incorporated into the station
is a sponge tray and a soldering
iron holder. With fast heat-up and
recovery time the soldering station
is highly suitable for repetitive assembly work as well as most other
electronics construction and service
tasks.
Recommended retail price is
$239. Replacement tips in 0.8mm
micro chisel, 1.6mm mini chisel and
3.2mm standard chisel are available at
$12.95 each.
The second product is a fume extractor (Cat T-1290).
For some time concerns have been
raised about the dangers of long-term
exposure to fumes given off by soldering processes – not just the fumes
released by the flux but also the melting
of the solder itself (which of course has
a high lead content).
This simple mains-operated device
Ultrasonic Parking Sensor
Elsewhere in this issue there is an Ultrasonic Parking
Radar to build. But if you don’t have the time, the inclination or the energy to do-it-yourself, Jaycar Electronics
might just have the answer – a built-up version.
It works in exactly the same way as the do-it-yourself
version except this one also has a coloured LED scale
to show you the distance before crunch time. The
ultrasonic transmitter and receiver are mounted in the
one block which makes mounting a lot easier, even if
distance is sacrificed. Mounting and operating instructions are included.
The Jaycar Ultrasonic Parking Radar (Cat LR8860)
is priced at
$89.95 and
is available from
all Jaycar
Electronics
stores and
authorised
resellers.
consists of a hood
containing an
open-mesh foam
filter (similar to those used in fish
tanks) through which air is drawn by
a fan.
The idea is that the fumes of soldering will be sucked in, trapping the
larger particles in the filter but in any
case directing the fumes away from
the user.
Recommended retail price is $139.95
Both products are available from
Altronics Distributors retail and mail
order centre in Perth (freecall 1800 999
007), via their website (www.altronics.
com.au) or from Altronics resellers
throughout Australia.
Keeping in touch – the CB way
Gone are the dull black or silver hand-held CB radios! This new
Kenwood UBZ-LF48 UHF CB from Dick Smith Electronics doesn’t
need a licence to use and is ideal for short-range communications,
whether it is for pleasure or business.
With just 300mW output it’s not going to set any distance
records but that’s not the idea. The small handheld
is intended for applications where the person you
want to talk to is out of shouting range – say up to
a couple of kilometres or so.
It operates on three “AA” batteries, giving up to
40 hours use. An auto power-off function will help
conserve the batteries when not in use. It also has a
keylock, a swivel antenna and belt hook – and an inbuilt voice scrambler if you want to maintain privacy.
You can use any of the 40 UHF CB channels,
selectable via up/down push buttons, while using
it is as simple as pressing the “talk” button to talk.
Priced at $199 (Cat D-1744), the Kenwood transceiver is available from all Dick Smith Electronics
stores, DSE PowerHouse stores, authorised resellers, via mail order or
the website, www.dse.com.au
And by the way, you can get it in black if you really want to!
FEBRUARY 2000 71
Fluke’s new ScopeMeter 190 hand-held ’scopes
The new 190 Series of handheld oscilloscopes from Fluke is
designed to meet the needs of service professionals and electronic
engineers involved in systems
integration, installation and second-line services.
The top model in the range
offers up to 200MHz bandwidth
and 2.5 GS/s real-time sampling
using separate digitisers on both
isolated inputs.
In addition the 190 Series has a
memory of 27,500 points per input
for long, high-resolution recording.
This continuous roll mode stores
signals for up to 30 hours while
still capturing past intermittents
and glitches as fast as 50 nsec.
They will operate for four hours
on a single battery and, without
the need for forced draft cooling,
it is possible to put the ’scope in a
sealed, dust and drip proof case.
The ScopeMeter 190 Series
features automatic triggering which
provides a stable and accurate display of virtually any signal, whatever
the signal complexity or dynamics,
without the need for setting up the
instrument. The series also offers
various manual triggering modes such
as edge, pulse width, video (line count
and field select), delay and external
triggering. This gives the engineer the
trigger power to capture virtually any
signal. A replay button is also provided which provides access to the last
100 screens. These can be re-displayed
one by one or played continuously
as a “live” animation. With the
advanced trigger capabilities,
the same feature automatically
captures up to 100 predefined
intermittent glitches and signal
anomalies.
Other features include cursors,
24 automatic scope measurements, a real-time clock, real-time
sampling per input, a zoom function for detailed signal analysis of
single sample measurements and
2 x 100 waveform. 10-setup memories allow for easy storage, recall
and analysis, making printing or
documenting waveforms quick
and easy.
Included is a 5000 count true
RMS multimeter and a “paperless” recording mode for graphing
meter and automatic scope measurements, with the possibility to
use cursors and store recordings
for later analysis.
For more information, contact
Fluke Australia, 26/7 Anella Ave,
Castle Hill, NSW 2154. Phone (02)
8850 3300, fax (02) 8859 3300 or www.
fluke.com/scopemeter
As well as full product specs, a
virtual demonstration also is available
on this web page.
Sony launches new SACD format and equipment to suit
According to Sony, their new
Super Audio CD (SACD) will be
the “next generation” audio carrier,
differing from conventional compact discs by not only reproducing
the music but also recreating every
detail of the atmosphere, nuance
and space surrounding the original
music source.
SACD, which was released in
Australia just before Christmas, is
initially targeted mainly at audiophiles who are seeking the highest
level of sound quality. Sony Australia’s Managing Director, Haruyuki
Machida, said that his company’s
aim was to establish SACD as a
format which offers a significantly
enhanced listening experience
compared to any current technology,
compact disc included. “We could
conceivably implement SACD playback capability into our entire line
of CD players,” he said.
Sony started work on the new
72 Silicon Chip
technology back in 1991, resulting in
the development of Direct Stream Digital (DSD) – the heart of the new SACD.
Using a sampling rate of 2.8224MHz
to directly record a 1-bit signal, Sony
claims the reproduction is infinitesimally close to the original source material. The need for decimation filtering
in both recording and playback is
eliminated and with a theoretical frequency range of 100kHz and dynamic
range of more than 120dB across the
audible range, recordings in DSD can
reproduce even the most minute high
range musical elements.
SACD also contains advanced
anti-piracy and copying protection
including both visible and invisible
watermarking on the disc (SACD
players will reject invalid discs) and,
if required, content encryption. SACD
will be available in several disc formats including a hybrid construction
which will allow playback on standard
CD players.
Along with the discs, Sony has
announced equipment designed to
handle the full potential of SACD.
Included in the range is the TA-E1
preamplifier, the TA-N1 power amplifier, the TA-FA777ES integrated
stereo amplifier and a speaker system, the SS-M9ED. A new Super
Tweeter System (SS-TW100ED) is
also available which will extend
the range of conventional speaker
systems to 100kHz.
Sony make no pretence that this
equipment is intended for a very
limited (up!)market: the preamp-lifier, power amplifier and speaker
setup alone carries a retail price of
around $55,000.
If you only want the Super Tweeter System to add to your existing
system, be prepared to pay about
$2000.
For more information, visit the
Sony website, www.sony.com.au or
call (02) 9878 9712.
dScope III audio test &
measurement
The new Prism Sound dScope Series III offers high precision generation
and measurement of analog and digital
audio signals as well as digital audio
carrier analysis, all in a compact and
convenient package which operates
with any IBM-compatible notebook
or desktop PC. No special interfacing
software is required.
The software operates under Windows (95, 98, 2000 or NT) and while
the user interface is highly versatile,
operation is delightfully simple.
For more information, contact the
distributors, Control Devices at Level
1, 150 William St, East Sydney NSW
2011; telephone (02) 9356 1943 or
email controldevices<at>mira.net
Test & measurement
catalog
Nutek Australia have available a
free catalog containing a large range of
Leader test and measurement equipment. Intended for all levels from the
hobbyist through to the engineer, the
catalog contains everything from multimeters and oscilloscopes through to
waveform monitors and vectorscopes,
wow and flutter meters and TV pattern
generators.
For your copy, contact Nutek Australia on (02) 9894 2377, fax (02) 9894
2386.
Flexiglow Cable – it
glows!
A new range of electroluminescent
cable called “Flexiglow” has been
released by Dick Smith Electronics.
The cable, originally developed
for military use, has a chemical coating which glows when a current is
applied. Unlike other cable lighting,
illumination is constant throughout
its length. Applications include advertising, signage and display work
or even some pretty neat Christmas
decorations (you’ve only got about 330
days to work on them!).
The cable is only 3.2mm in diameter
and can therefore be formed into any
shape you wish – even around tight
corners.
Colours available are red, green,
yellow and ultramarine blue. It is
sold by the metre with a retail price
of $19.25 per metre.
To power the wire, a DC adaptor
and inverter are required. There are
two inverters available, one to suit 5
to 25 metre lengths (Cat. No. S 4596
<at>$79) and the other for 25 to 100 metre
lengths (Cat. No. S4597 <at> $169.) An
appropriate 12V DC adaptor is the Cat.
No. M9670 <at> $33.50.
You won’t find Flexiglow in your
local DSE store because it is only
available from the DSE “PowerHouse”
stores at Moore Park, Bankstown and
Penrith (NSW) and Carnegie and Nunawading (Vic) or from the Direct-Link
mail order service (1300 366 644) or
website, www.dse.com.au
Central Coast Amateur Field Day
Just a reminder – the Central
Coast Field Day is on this month.
It will be held at Wyong Racecourse (about 1 hour north of
Sydney) on Sunday, February 27
from 8am.
For futher information see last
month's SILICON CHIP or contact
the Central Coast Amateur Radio
Club:
PO Box 346, Woy Woy NSW
2256, phone (02) 4340 2500,
email bobfitz<at>ozemail.com.au,
website www.ccarg.org.au
AUDIO MODULES
broadcast quality
Manufactured in Australia
Harbuch Electronics Pty Ltd
9/40 Leighton Pl. HORNSBY 2077
Ph (02) 9476-5854 Fx (02) 9476-3231
New semis from
REC Electronics
REC Electronics, Australian and
New Zealand distributors of Linear
Technology semiconductors, have a
number of new LT devices in their
range. In brief, these include:
LT1402, a 2.2Msps A-D converter which
features a high-speed serial interface.
80MHz sample-and-hold bandwidth
with 72dB SINAD and 89dB THD. 16-pin
SSOP package (SO-8 footprint).
LT1578, a 200kHz monolithic buck mode
switching regulator offering a compact
DC/DC convert solution for 5V to 3.3V
or lower conversions (adjustable to
1.2V). Incorporates all oscillator, control
and protection circuitry for a complete
switching regulator. 8-pin SO package.
LT1721, a 16-pin SSOP- or SO-packaged
ultra-fast quad comparator with 4.5ns
propagation delay and 2.7V – 6V operation. It draws only 4mA per comparator.
LT1886, containing two high-gain bandwidth, high-speed op amps capable of
providing a minimum of 8.6VP-P at
200mA on a ±6V or single 12V supply
with extremely low total signal distortion.
SO-8 package.
LT1986, a micropower charge pump which
provides the smallest power supply for
dual-voltage SIM cards in GSM cellular
phones. VOUT stays within the 3V SIM
VCC specification even when the VIN is
as low as 2.6V. 6-lead SOT-23 package.
For more information, contact
REC Electronics, Unit 1, 38 South
St, Rydalmere NSW 2116. Phone
(02) 9638 1888, fax (02) 9638 1798.
FEBRUARY 2000 73
AMD x86 chip hits
800MHz . . .
. . . while the K6-2/3DNow reaches 533MHz
AMD has released the world’s fastest
and most powerful x86 processor with
its new Athlon CPU running at a rather
brisk 800MHz!
This translates to unequalled performance for high-end computer
applications, particularly in video,
graphics, CAD, audio and digital content creation.
The 800MHz chip is based on AMD’s
aluminium 0.18-micron manufacturing
process. This shrinks the size of the die,
enabling faster speeds and lower power
consumption.
The AMD Athlon chip is an x-86-compatible, seventh-generation design featuring a superpipelined, nine-issue superscalar microarchitecture optimised
for high clock frequency. It includes
128KB of on-chip level (L1) cache and
a programmable, high-performance
backside L2 cache interface.
Computer manufacturers using, or
planning to use, the new chip include
industry leaders Compaq and IBM.
They’ll be paying $US849 for each
chip in 1000-unit quantities (about
$AU1300).
POSTSCRIPT: 1GHz reached!
AMD and Compaq demonstrated a
1GHz Athlon at the Winter CES.
Air block alarm
system from DSE
Hioki’s new non“No-shield” variablecontact thermometers speed drive filter
Where most security systems use
either motion detectors or physical
switches to detect intrusion, a new
alarm system from Dick Smith Electronics uses the change in pressure
when a door or window is opened to
trigger the alarm.
The fully portable and self-contained Air Block Alarm System is
therefore suitable for use in any type
of property from homes and offices to
cars, boats and caravans. Along with
its 110dB alarm siren, the system also
has a pleasant chime “alarm” for applications such as shop or office “door
minders”. Sensitivity is adjustable to
protect any area from two square metres up to five hundred square metres.
It is powered by six “AA” batteries and
is controlled by one key.
The Air Block Alarm is priced at
$199 and is available from all Dick
Smith Electronics stores, Dick Smith
PowerHouse stores or via the Direct
Link mail order service (freecall 1300
366 644). For more information or to
order on-line, visit www.dse.com.au
Hioki have
released three
non-contact thermometers with
applications in
the food, scientific and hazardous
goods industries.
Because they
measure temperature by reading the radiant
flux emanating from the object to be
measured, no contact with the object
or surface is required. This results in
zero contamination of the object or
exposure to the user.
Each measures from –50°C to
+500°C with a resolution of 0.1°C. A
95% temperature change can be read
in 1.6 seconds. An optional computer
interface is available which allows
data logging and massaging.
The three models released are:
Hioki 3443 – 24mm diameter measuring
field at a distance of 1m. Has on-board memory for 130 temperature readings.
Hioki 3444 – same field and distance but
with real-time output is suitable for continuous monitoring.
Hioki 3445 – also with real-time output
but is intended for spot measuring with a
2.5mm field at 70mm.
For more information contact
Nilsen Technologies, 150 Oxford St,
Colling-wood, Vic 3066. Freecall 1800
623 350, freefax 1800 067 263.
74 Silicon Chip
At the same time as the very fast
AMD Athlon release, AMD announced
its popular Intel-alternative, the K6-2
with 3DNow technology, has reached
an impressive 533MHz.
The 9.3-million transistor K6-2 is
manufactured on AMD’s 0.25-micron,
five-layer metal process technology.
The K6-2 chip is intended for
machines for the small business and
consumer markets which are significantly more price-sensitive than those
for top-end applications.
It is packaged in a Super7-platform
compatible, 321-pin ceramic pin grid
array. This also adds to its appeal for
socket-7 motherboard manufacturers.
The K6-2 sells for $US167 ($AU265)
in 1000-off quantities.
The Schaffner FN 5100 series of
filters for variable speed drives eliminates the need for expensive shielded
cables.
This makes them ideal for retro-fitting in existing drive installations or
in new installations requiring long
cable runs.
They represent an economical solution to the need for EMC-compliant
installations.
The filters not only minimise the
emission of RF interference but also
help protect the motor by limiting
sharp voltage slews (dV/dT).
The FN5100 is available for line
voltages to 480V AC and in current
ratings from 6A to 63A.
For more information about Shaffner filters contact their distributors,
Westek Industrial Products Pty Ltd,
Unit 2, 6-10 Maria St, Laverton Nth,
Vic 3026. Phone (03) 9369 8802, fax
(03) 9369 8006 or email info<at> westek.
com.au
The company’s website is at www.
SC
westek.com.au
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
Projection TV – from many angles
In the course of my service career, I have
come across quite a few projection TV sets.
Normally I shun these because of the logistics
involved in servicing them. In-situ servicing
can be difficult in many cases while the sets
are just too big to easily transport back to the
workshop.
I was once asked to repair a projection TV set in a hotel and being
more naive (and hungrier) than I am
today, I attended the set to find that
although it worked, it had no green.
But the real problem was that it was
switched on and the drinking clients
were waiting to watch a world heavyweight title fight. The hotel manager
had not mentioned this; he had simply
told me that the set was in the lounge
and left me to fix it.
However, as I started to work on it,
one belligerent and somewhat intoxicated customer decided that I was
about to damage the set and felt that
it was incumbent upon him to protect
it. I count myself lucky that I was able
to get out of there without personally
being readjusted – and projected!
Thereafter, I made it a strict policy:
no house calls to pubs – ever. If they
want their sets fixed, they can deliver
them to me at the workshop and handle the delivery costs.
I have also been forced to apply the
same policy to property managers and
other time wasters. The scenario normally goes along these lines. It starts
with a request to pick up keys from
a real estate office (usually in a busy
street in a long No Stopping zone)
and go immediately to flat 27 on the
third floor in an old building (with no
lift) and fix an ancient unnamed TV
set with an unspecified intermittent
fault – straight away. They then want
you to return the keys and submit your
account for payment within 90 days.
Oh yeah! – if I’m lucky. And then
only after them first questioning and
whingeing about the cost.
Many of my colleagues know how
to deal with this – they charge like
wounded bulls. Personally, I prefer
to just politely refuse – it’s not worth
the hassle or my time. If they want
the set fixed, they can bring it to me
and pay when the job is done, just like
everyone else.
However, I did make an exception
recently when Mr Schultz, a well-spoken businessman, asked me to attend
to a rear projec
tion TV set he had
just imported from Germany. It was
a 117cm (46-inch) RP46 Thomson
employing an ICC9 chassis, about
four years old.
Apparently it had been working perfectly in Germany but the picture was
distorted and blurred when workmen
had unpacked it and installed it in
its new location in Australia. A local
company had sent a technician along
and he reported that one of the boards
had been cracked and that the set was
probably a write-off. I was asked to
check it out and give a second opinion
Sets Covered This Month
•
•
•
•
Thomson RP46 projection TV set
Seleco SVT 150 projection TV set
Dual Digital Concept TV4170 TV set
Sony KV-X2931S TV set
on behalf of the insurance company.
Fortunately, I already had experience with this series of sets and have
had similar problems with cracked
convergence boards which are held
along one edge, needing only one
quick jar to put an unacceptable strain
on the mounting. And so I agreed to
call and make a brief examination, to
confirm or refute this diagnosis.
Sure enough, the picture on the
screen had colour but was distorted
in all geometric settings. In addition,
both the static and dynamic convergence settings were way off.
To get to the convergence module,
I had to remove the loudspeaker baffles and find the concealed screws
that allow the front panel to come
off. This done, access to this board is
easy. However, although none of the
controls worked, the board looked
pristine with no sign of a crack.
I replaced the front panel and removed the back. The irritating part
of this is the need to use a Torx anti-tamper screwdriver for some screws
and a 4BA spin-tight for others. That
done, I was able to locate the convergence power supply on the righthand
side. I measured voltage going in but
none coming out and decided that
this was where the problem might
be. I removed this unit and told the
client that I would take it back to the
workshop.
The power supply was a conventional switchmode FET type but the
major problem was trying to match
the component numbers from the
circuits with those on the boards. For
example, the chopper transformer is
shown on the circuit as TR01 but on
the board layout it is marked T7100.
There is a note on the circuit and a
small chart under the heading – and I
quote – “Conv. of europ. Names to US
names.”, where these items are shown.
But it gets worse when identifying
the connecting plugs and sockets. For
example, BS02 becomes J7002 (mark
ed J2 on the board), which connects
FEBRUARY 2000 75
with J8204 on the convergence generator board, which then translates
to J204 and then BE04. It was all very
confusing.
Anyway, there was no sign of the
power supply even oscillating. I went
straight to the start-up resistors RP09
(R9U) 100kΩ and RP18 (R18) 220kΩ
and measured them. The former was
OK but the latter was nearly open
circuit. I replaced it and the whole
thing fired up properly. I returned
with it, refitted it to the set and after
some adjustment of the controls, the
set gave a very good picture.
Mr Schultz was happy on one hand
that his set was now OK – but unhappy on the other hand because he had
to pay for the repair rather than the
insurance company. However, it just
wasn’t possible for him to claim on
his insurance. After all, how could
one faulty resistor be put down to
accidental damage through shipping?
Another projection set
The next projection set I had to
repair was for a club that had bought
a secondhand Seleco, which wasn’t
76 Silicon Chip
working. Unlike the Thomson, this
was a front projection system, the
picture being projected onto a wall
screen.
The set itself was a 1987 model SVT
150 and was worth around $12,000
new. This one had to go directly back
to the workshop and I don’t know why
I took it on, as I didn’t even have a
circuit – I suppose I was just curious
to see what one gets for $12,000.
Removing the covers revealed immediately that it was very corroded.
The only positive aspect was that I
recognised the construction and layout of the boards as being similar to
the Fujitsu General series of colour TV
sets made in Italy at about the same
period. Indeed, the main deflection
board was marked BS950, the same
as for a Fujitsu General FGS281PTXT.
Even the remote control was the same
(30D3).
This was a stroke of luck because it
meant that I now had a circuit.
I started by switching it on and
there was a brief display, then an
“electronic click”, followed by silence
– something had just died. After a
more detailed investigation, I found
the set had been endowed with two
power supplies and the one marked
BS820 had failed.
Fortunately, it was a very conventional supply and I replaced the
chopper transistor (BU508A, T601),
four electrolytic capacitors and two
resistors and fuse F451. Coils TR454
and TR453 (20µH) had been slightly
melted but apart from that had held
up to the strain.
This time, when I switched on, it
tried to start but closed down after a
few seconds with just P30 displayed.
Because this set was very corroded,
I next looked at board BS776 which
I deduced generated the EHT for the
three tubes. After removing it, I went
over it very carefully, testing all likely components I thought might fail.
The only thing I could find here that
was that R615, a 100kΩ resistor, had
gone high.
My broad plan of attack was to
check each board, one at a time,
looking for obvious signs of corrosion
related failure or damage. However,
after spending a great deal of time, I
couldn’t find anything. The only thing
I could work out was that something
was killing the horizontal drive after
a few seconds.
I worked through all the boards until I reached the digital board (BS815).
This is very similar to the BS816 in the
Fujitsu General colour TV sets and indeed other digital TV receivers under
names such as Schneider, Dual, Teac,
Akai ITT and Nokia, to name a few.
These all use the same chip sets but
are not necessarily interchangeable as
they are often encoded for the instruc
tion set used within that model.
The horizontal drive was generated
from the DPU2553 deflec
tion processing unit IC (CI5) which is in turn
controlled by a central processing unit
and its EEPROMs. Though this set
was made in Italy, it was designed in
Germany and there was another clue.
The display constantly showed P31 or
program 31, no matter which button
of the remote control was pressed.
This suggested that it was highly
likely to be the CPU (or CCU as the
Germans call it), or even more likely,
the EEPROMs.
The Fujitsu General showed these
EEPROMs to be MDA2062s, whereas
this set used a sub-board (BS842) soldered into the main board in location
CI3. This sub-board carried a single
8-pin DIL EEPROM NVM3060 instead
of the original 14-pin DILs.
I thought I might be snookered here
in not being able to get the spare parts
but as luck would have it, the local
agents were able to sell me the IC.
When it arrived, the set powered up
and stayed on and there was sound
– but no picture – on all channels. It
took another saga to locate and replace
CI8 DTI2223, the “Digital Transient
Improvement” IC, to finally bring up
the picture.
But that wasn’t the end of the matter.
After it had been on for a while, the
picture broke up into black and white
horizontal bars and the Teletext no
longer operated. With the aid of some
freezer, this fault was traced to CI12,
the Teletext RAM chip (TMS
416415N). Fortunately, I managed to find
a replacement on an old computer
motherboard. After that, I was home
and hosed and the old projection set
performed quite spectacularly.
Dual TV set
Reverting now to conventional TV
sets, my next story concerns a 66cm
Dual Digital Concept TV4170. This
set uses a DTV2 chassis and is made
by Schneider in Germany. It is also
made under the brand names of Teac,
NAD, Nokia, Salora and ITT. The
entire chassis is no bigger than that
of a 34cm portable set and when one
looks inside, the first question one
asks is “where is the rest of the set?”
Apart from the control panel, which
is about 10 x 10cm square, the motherboard is divided into two sections: (1)
the power/deflection board and (2) the
digital/small signal/audio board, that
latter using the ITT digital IC chip set.
As with a few other recent jobs, this
set came to me via the tortured route
of failed repairs from several other
service centres who really didn’t want
to know. However, that’s not surprising really, considering that there are
not many of these sets in the country
and the agency has closed. We would
all prefer to work on easy faults that
earn money rather than complex ones
that don’t.
The set was reported as dead but
strictly speaking, it wasn’t. There was
no sound or picture but the switch-
mode power supply was working and
delivering all the secondary voltage
rails except for the 5V U3 rail which
was low at 3.3V and delivering 1.5A.
There was no horizontal or vertical
drive because this rail fed the “digi
board” where the oscillators are
located.
The problem was whether it was
a load fault or a supply fault. When
the interconnecting St.DT (play) plug
was removed, the 5V rail recovered
to its full value and this suggested
that it was a load problem. And it
seemed that the only way to locate
the fault was to desolder each device
in sequence until the short vanished.
This is rather difficult as the 16 odd
ICs are all hard wired/soldered close
together on the double-sided PC board
– not to mention the tuner, IF, audio,
AV and control panels. In addition,
many of the 40-pin ICs have multiple
connections to the U3 rail, many of
which are not marked. Nevertheless,
I could see no easy alternative and so
I persevered as best I could.
Unfortunately, after spending a lot
of time following this procedure, I had
FEBRUARY 2000 77
signal never arrived at pin
23 of IC701.
This turned out to be a
fault of my own making;
pin 23 had been poorly
soldered when I fitted the
IC socket. Because the IC
is on the component side,
it is very difficult to solder
the pin from that side. All
I could do was melt more
solder onto pin 23’s pad
from the other side until
it finally connected with
the pin.
When this was finally
achieved the whole set
was trans
formed into a
well-behaved, responsive
receiver with an excel
l
-ent picture. Everything
worked, including the
Teletext. The only thing
that didn’t was the picture-in-picture facility
and that was because the
optional module wasn’t
fitted.
A weird fault
made little progress. I could find no
direct shorts, due partly to the amount
of circuitry connected to this rail and
partly because it is almost impossible
to desolder awkwardly placed components on the double-sided boards.
But the work wasn’t entirely wasted. I was beginning to suspect the
Deflection Processing Unit, IC701
(IC1) DPU2553 and decided to remove
it completely and fit a socket for it to
the board. This was a drastic decision
because it isn’t easy to fit a 40-pin IC
socket to a PC board by soldering it on
the component side – especially with
virtually no room. However, I eventually managed to get the job done
and then ordered and fitted a new IC.
This turned out to be a good move,
with the 5V rail making a big recovery – although not quite enough. And
there were partial signs of life, with
EHT and a white line at the top of
the screen.
I next suspected the two EEPROMs
– IC1302 and IC1303 (MDA2062) – but
then decided that IC1301 (CCU7916)
was more likely to be the culprit, as
neither the remote control nor any of
the controls was having any effect.
And I have to confess that I could
only make intelligent guesses as to
which section or IC might be faulty.
78 Silicon Chip
Fortunately, my guess proved to be
correct. When IC1301 (CCU7916) was
replaced, the sound was restored and
all the controls were working.
However, there were still problems
with the picture. The screen was intermittently trying to produce a full
scan but there were huge quantities
of what looked like hum moving up
and down the screen. In addition, the
horizontal deflection was off speed,
as evidenced by picture tearing. The
set was also suffering a great deal of
stress, with a lot of heat being generated on the deflection module.
I switched it off and had a think
about the problem.
The most valuable symptom was
the horizontal deflection system being
off frequency. Why should this be so
on a digital set when the oscillator
is crystal controlled and has AFC
feedback?
Because the frequency was only
slightly off, a logical assumption
was that the problem had to be in the
AFC feedback loop. This is generated
from pin 4 of the horizontal output
transformer TR302 (TR2) and goes
through CR410 (CR10) to pin 6 of the
interconnecting harness plug St.DT.
I followed this with the CRO to the
anode of diode DT02 (D2) but the
My final story this month describes
one of the weirdest faults one could
imagine. It was found in a set by our
local Sony service agent.
The set, a 1990 Sony KV-X2931S
AEB1 chassis, belonged to an elderly
couple and it had given good service for about eight years. Recently,
however, it had started cutting out
intermit
t ently, giving no picture
(black screen) or sound but leaving
the channel number displayed on
the screen.
After a few abortive house calls to
fix it, it ended up on their workshop
bench. Subsequently, a number suspect solder joints were found which
were duly attended to and the set was
put aside for testing. Initially, they
were quite confident that the fault had
been scotched by this wide sweep but
it wasn’t to be.
This was the kind of fault that just
keeps coming back and after a few
days, they were right back to square
one. Over the next couple of weeks,
the set rocked back and forth from the
soak-testing bench to the workbench
and each time some suspect joints
were discovered and resoldered.
Finally, it was considered good
enough to go home where it worked
for about a month before the symp-
toms returned. It then came back to
the workshop where a couple of more
joints were resoldered it worked OK
for a week before going home again.
This see-saw between home and
workshop subsequently went on five
times, with the set always being OK
at the service centre and in trouble
at home. Of course, you can imagine
how the owners were beginning to get
a little tetchy about this.
In the meantime, all hell was breaking loose at the service centre as to
how to fix such an intermittent fault.
Finally, the boss, whose expertise is
normally confined to audio equipment decided to have a go.
To cut a long story short, the attention of all concerned had gradually
been homing in on a particular board
– the J1 board which carries the audio
control, AV input, Y/C input, SCART
video out and E/W correction circuits.
This board is mounted vertically at
the rear supported by a cream plastic rear support bracket (11) and the
whole combination is hinged at the
bottom so that it can fold down for
service. The copper pattern side of
the board faces inwards, against the
plastic support – see Fig.1.
It seemed that moving this assembly
could bring on the fault – sometimes!
It was eventually established that the
set would always work with the back
off, but intermittently fail with it on.
A lot of time was spent examining
the plugs and sockets and hinge connections J1-41 and J1-51, as pushing
the assembly backwards and forwards
could induce the fault.
Finally, the boss confirmed that
if the cream plastic bracket was removed from the J1 board, one could
do anything with the board and the set
still worked. But when everything was
reassembled into the normal positions
and the plastic back of the cabinet was
replaced, the fault could be induced
by pressing on this plastic back.
The point here is that there is a
plastic cover mounted inside the
cabinet back, apparently to protect
the component side of the board. So
pressing the cabinet back can move
the board/bracket combination.
Simple solution
Finally, he reached a dramatic conclusion – it wasn’t moving the board
that caused the fault – it was just
pushing the board against the cream
plastic bracket that could do it!
Fig.1: an exploded view of part of the Sony KV-X2931S AEB1 TV chassis.
The J1 board (12) is supported by the plastic bracket (11). Note the fitting
(13) and the cover inside the cabinet back.
Apparently, this bracket had become conductive and with the back
on, the cover pressed against the
component side of J1 board. This in
turn meant that the copper side of the
board was pressed against the plastic
bracket.
So far, no one has managed to measure the conductivity of the plastic or
determine precisely which circuit
was affected. But the solution was
quite simple – use insulating tape
around the edges of the plastic bracket
where it touched the J1 board. He
had previously cleaned the bracket
with acetone to remove any residual
conducting chemicals but without
success.
This finally achieved a lasting
repair and the set is still working
months down the track.
Of course, a new plastic bracket
may have fixed the problem but why
go to the expense when just a few
centimetres of tape was all that was
needed?
Who would have thought that this
board/bracket assembly could cause
such a fault? Apparently, not all plastics are good insulators as we have
been lead to believe!
Finally, note that this fault could
be very similar to one found in a run
of 1992 Mitsubishi TV sets, models
C3420/C3421. This produced a product recall when a white plastic PC
board frame had to be replaced with
SC
a black one (BFC 3420-01).
Silicon Chip Binders
Heavy board covers with 2-tone green vinyl
covering
Each binder holds up to 14 issues
SILICON CHIP logo printed in gold-coloured
lettering on spine & cover
REAL
VALUE
AT
$12.95
PLUS P
&
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FEBRUARY 2000 79
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email: vass<at>hotkey.net.au
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Electronics offer a simple, efficient and
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Peerless 850122 woofer 6.5” CSX hi-end $135
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In your next issue of
*
March 2000 issue due on sale at your newsagent February 23
–or a few days earlier if you are a subscriber!
Low
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You asked for it: here it is. A new,
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Glowplug
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FEBRUARY
2000 81
VINTAGE RADIO
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
The Hellier Award; Pt.1
Building simple valve radios from scratch
can be a challenge and a lot of fun. Eight such
radios were recently built by members of the
Vintage Radio Club of North Eastern Victoria
as part of a competition. All used just two
valves but with lots of interesting variations.
Back in 1989, when the Vintage
Radio Club of North Eastern Victoria Inc. was formed, one of its aims
was to foster a cooperative spirit in
various areas of vintage radio – eg,
education, restoration and the collection of historical information on our
radio/wireless heritage. In addition,
as part of the club’s activities, a com-
petition has been conducted almost
every year with a different emphasis
each time. These competitions have
included: building a 2-valve radio,
restoring a wreck (and plotting your
progress), building a “Little Jim”,
building a “Little General”, building a
useful piece of test gear and building
a crystal set (Silicon Chip, October
This little 2-valve TRF set had most of its cabinet made from a 2-litre ice-cream
container!
82 Silicon Chip
1994), etc.
This competition is known as
“The Hellier Award” in honour of
Les Hellier, one of our early radio
broadcasting pioneers. Les Hellier
established the first country-based
broadcasting station in Victoria (and
possibly in Australia), according to
the club historian. That station was
3WR Wangaratta, which later became
3SR Shepparton on 1260kHz. 3SR has
since closed down on the AM band
but the transmitter is now operated
by the racing fraternity.
The last Hellier Award
Back in April 1998, I proposed
that the award should be for the
construction of a small 2-valve (envelope) receiver – basically, a radio
somewhere between a “Little Jim”
and a “Little General” in complexity
and performance. These sets appeared
as constructional articles in “Radio &
Hobbies” over many years and were
built by enthusiasts between the late
1930s and the early 1960s.
For those unfamiliar with these
sets, the “Little Jim” was a 2-stage
radio with a regenerative detector and
audio stage (usually using a twin-triode valve). By contrast, the “Little
General” was a more ambitious set,
being a basic superhet with a converter, an IF stage and an audio stage.
I proposed that perhaps the award
for the year could be called the “Big
Jim”. The name didn’t get off the
ground but the concept certainly did.
As for the technicalities, the valves
could be single function such as a
6V6GT or multi-function such as
some of the “Compactrons” that have
up to three valves in the one envelope.
Rectifier valves, if used, would not be
considered in the valve count. The
aim was to stimulate the members into
looking at all the areas of importance
This photo shows the eight entrants for the 1999 Hellier Award. Five of the sets
are simple superhets, while the other three are TRF sets.
in the production of a set and to really
let their hair down and do something
innovative if they wanted to.
Key parameters
The set was to be a mantle unit
suitable for use in the kitchen or a
bedroom. Some of the key parameters
were: (1) it had to be easy to operate,
(2) it had to be pleasing to look at and
(3) it had to have adequate performance so that all local stations could
be heard at good volume.
In addition, the set should also be
easy to disassemble for service and
once disassembled, the electronics
and mechanical aspects of the set
should be easy to work on. Care was
to be taken to ensure that inputs and
outputs were well separated and that
component values could be easily
seen. After all, it is just as easy to
put components in a circuit with the
values showing as it is to have them
facing the chassis!
It was also suggested that a mockup be made before actually starting
construction, to test various ideas and
eliminate those that were unsuitable
as far as the cabinet, chassis and electronics were concerned. Laying out
the major components on a piece of
paper is one way of making sure that
everything fits and that certain areas
of the radio aren’t going to be unduly
crowded. After all, who likes delving
under several layers of parts to get at
a suspected faulty component? I don’t
and I’m sure very few other people
do either.
It was expected that the contest
would provide quite a learning curve
for our members in various areas.
Some are good at electronics while
others are good at chassis construction, cabinet work or producing an
aesthetically pleasing set, or providing good service and operational data.
None of us excel in all these areas, so
it was expected that members would
ask others for advice if necessary.
Finally, a year was allowed for
members to get their entry up and
running. Unfortunately, this didn’t
prove long enough for some of the
contestants and a couple of sets
weren’t finished in time. However,
now that the judging of the award is
complete, these contestants are being
encouraged to finalise their work so
that each set really proves to have
been worth the effort.
Technical suggestions
A number of suggestions were made
as to how to obtain the best performance from two valves and yet still
adhere to the KISS principle (Keep
It Simple Stupid). These suggestions
ranged from a regenerative detector
with two audio stages (eg, using a
6N8 and a 6GW8) to a full superhet
consisting of a converter, a single reflexed IF stage and a triode output (eg,
using a 6AN7 and a 6BL8 or 6AN8).
A small triode will certainly give
adequate output, as demonstrated by
the Chinese set described in the July
1999 issue.
The circuits of typical receivers that
could be used as the starting point for
experimentation were subsequently
published in the club’s newsletter. Of
course, the contestants were free to
adapt these or to develop something
completely different, as the mood
took them.
As it turned out, some contestants
did try something new while others
felt more comfortable using the exFEBRUARY 2000 83
Two of the sets entered in the contest were housed in beautifully-made “Empire State” style cabinets.
isting designs. Even so, no member
slavishly copied any design – either
electronically, mechanically or in
cabinet style or construction material. The variations all proved quite
interesting and this was reflected in
the higher than normal attendance at
the meeting when the sets were first
displayed.
What the contestants made
From the accompanying photographs, it can be seen that eight very
different sets were presented. For a
start, the size variations are quite noticeable, the sets ranging from about
the size of a brick to one that would
be suitable only for a giant’s mantle
piece. In the latter case, I can assure
you that the set has a performance
that equals its size.
The cabinets were all made exclusively or partly of wood. It is easier
to dress up than metal or plastic and
when polished looks a million dollars.
As can be seen, there are some very
nice polished sets ranging from 1940s
style back to “Empire State” style.
Harvey, the owner of the large
mantle set, ran into trouble with the
finishing of his cabinet. Another club
member explained what was necessary to get a good finish on pine and
84 Silicon Chip
cabinet restoration and this will be
described in a later article.
Several other sets were painted (or
were to be painted) to look like the
typical 1950s kitchen mantle set. As
for the little blue set, it had most of
its cabinet made from a 2-litre icecream container! It may not have been
intended to look the prettiest but Noel
(the owner) decided that his set would
use readily available bits and pieces.
Because valve-radio power transformers are no longer manufactured,
Noel decided to use two modern transformers, a 2155 and a 2853, to obtain
the voltages that were required for
his radio. The 2853 was wired backto-front across the 9V output of the
2155 to obtain a suitable HT voltage.
What types of sets were built?
Five out of the eight sets were
simple superhets (commonly called
“supergainers” in amateur radio circles). They used a converter (mostly
a 6AN7) and a regenerative IF stage,
followed by a stage of audio amplification. All were AC-powered, with one
exception which could be powered
either from 90V and 1.5V batteries
or from an AC supply, as required.
This latter set was a simple super
het, using a 1A7GT and the marvellous little 1D8GT. Unfortunately,
this was one of the sets that wasn’t
operational at the time of the judging.
The other three units are TRF
sets, two of which are “Christmas
Box” radios as described in “Radio
& Hobbies” back around 1952. These
Christmas Box radios consist of a 6N8
regenerative RF stage feeding another
tuned section and a diode detector,
which then reflexes back through the
6N8 to give additional audio gain.
The 6N8 in turn drives a 6M5 audio
stage which then drives the speaker
(if reflex circuitry isn’t something that
you fully understand take a look at the
February 1996 issue of SILICON CHIP).
The third TRF set used a 6J7G
regenerative detector and a 6V6GT
audio amplifier.
Solving problems
Have you ever done anything
worthwhile that didn’t give some
problems before success was yours?
Well, that’s the way it proved to be for
the contestants who built these sets.
For example, Dennis who built the
smaller more ornate Empire State
cabinet ran into trouble with his
bending and steaming. The result
was a somewhat wavy rather than
a smooth finish on the timber – and
Dennis loves woodwork. He was disappointed with it but will no doubt
sort the problem out.
Nearly everyone ran into trouble
getting the regeneration going in their
simple superhets. They found that
they needed to wind many turns of
wire onto the IF transformer to get
the reaction to work properly. There
was detuning of the IF transformer
in most cases, too. I built a similar
receiver around 20 years ago and had
no trouble with this but I did use a
different method of obtaining the
reaction. Hopefully, we’ll get to the
bottom of this idiosyncrasy over the
next few months.
Next month
That’s all for this month on this
very interesting project. In the next
issue, we’ll take a look at just how
well each of these little sets works.
One question that did arise during the
course of the competition was which
type of set performed the best – the
TRFs or the simple superhets. At the
moment the jury is still out on that
one but there will be some answers
SC
for you next month.
This photo shows the three winning sets. We’ll look more closely at these sets
and describe their main features in Pt.3 of this series.
FEBRUARY 2000 85
REFERENCE
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VIDEO SCRAMBLING AND DESCRAMBLING for
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Satellite & Cable TV by Graf & Sheets
By Simon Collin. Published 1997.
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TCP/IP EXPLAINED
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Assumes no prior knowledge of TCP/IP, only a
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By Tim Williams. First published 1991
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Includes grounding, printed circuit design and
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LOCAL AREA NETWORKS:
An Introduction to the Technology
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES
Want to become more familiar with local area
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UNDERSTANDING TELEPHONE ELECTRONICS....$55.00
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GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY...............$55.00
EMC FOR PRODUCT DESIGNERS.......................$95.00
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UNDERSTANDING TELEPHONE ELECTRONICS
THE ART OF LINEAR ELECTRONICS
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59
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Back Issues
June 1992: Multi-Station Headset Intercom, Pt.1; Video Switcher
For Camcorders & VCRs; IR Remote Control For Model Railroads,
Pt.3; 15-Watt 12-240V Inverter; A Look At Hard Disc Drives.
August 1992: Automatic SLA Battery Charger; Miniature 1.5V To 9V
DC Converter; 1kW Dummy Load Box For Audio Amplifiers; Troubleshooting Vintage Radio Receivers; The MIDI Interface Explained.
October 1992: 2kW 24VDC - 240VAC Sinewave Inverter; Multi-Sector Home Burglar Alarm, Pt.2; Mini Amplifier For Personal Stereos;
A Regulated Lead-Acid Battery Charger.
September 1988: Hands-Free Speakerphone; Electronic Fish Bite
Detector; High-Performance AC Millivoltmeter, Pt.2; Build The
Vader Voice.
December 1990: 100W DC-DC Converter For Car Amplifiers; Wiper
Pulser For Rear Windows; 4-Digit Combination Lock; 5W Power
Amplifier For The 6-Metre Amateur Transmitter; Index To Volume 3.
April 1989: Auxiliary Brake Light Flasher; What You Need to Know
About Capacitors; 32-Band Graphic Equaliser, Pt.2; The Story Of
Amtrak Passenger Services.
January 1991: Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries, Pt.1; Have Fun
With The Fruit Machine; Two-Tone Alarm Module; LCD Readout For
The Capacitance Meter; How Quartz Crystals Work; The Dangers of
Servicing Microwave Ovens.
May 1989: Build A Synthesised Tom-Tom; Biofeedback Monitor For
Your PC; Simple Stub Filter For Suppressing TV Interference; The
Burlington Northern Railroad.
July 1989: Exhaust Gas Monitor; Experimental Mains Hum Sniffers;
Compact Ultrasonic Car Alarm; The NSW 86 Class Electrics.
September 1989: 2-Chip Portable AM Stereo Radio (Uses MC13024
and TX7376P) Pt.1; High Or Low Fluid Level Detector; Studio Series
20-Band Stereo Equaliser, Pt.2.
October 1989: FM Radio Intercom For Motorbikes Pt.1; GaAsFet
Preamplifier For Amateur TV; 2-Chip Portable AM Stereo Radio,
Pt.2; A Look At Australian Monorails.
November 1989: Radfax Decoder For Your PC (Displays Fax, RTTY
& Morse); FM Radio Intercom For Motorbikes, Pt.2; 2-Chip Portable
AM Stereo Radio, Pt.3; Floppy Disc Drive Formats & Options; The
Pilbara Iron Ore Railways.
February 1991: Synthesised Stereo AM Tuner, Pt.1; Three Low-Cost
Inverters For Fluorescent Lights; Low-Cost Sinewave Oscillator;
Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries, Pt.2; How To Design Amplifier
Output Stages.
March 1991: Remote Controller For Garage Doors, Pt.1; Transistor
Beta Tester Mk.2; A Synthesised AM Stereo Tuner, Pt.2; Multi-Purpose I/O Board For PC-Compatibles; Universal Wideband RF
Preamplifier For Amateur Radio & TV.
April 1991: Steam Sound Simulator For Model Railroads; Remote
Controller For Garage Doors, Pt.2; Simple 12/24V Light Chaser;
Synthesised AM Stereo Tuner, Pt.3; A Practical Approach To
Amplifier Design, Pt.2.
May 1991: 13.5V 25A Power Supply For Transceivers; Stereo Audio
Expander; Fluorescent Light Simulator For Model Railways; How
To Install Multiple TV Outlets, Pt.1.
January 1990: High Quality Sine/Square Oscillator; Service Tips
For Your VCR; Phone Patch For Radio Amateurs; Active Antenna
Kit; Designing UHF Transmitter Stages.
June 1991: A Corner Reflector Antenna For UHF TV; Build A 4-Channel Lighting Desk, Pt.1; 13.5V 25A Power Supply For Transceivers,
Pt.2; Active Filter For CW Reception; Tuning In To Satellite TV, Pt.1.
February 1990: A 16-Channel Mixing Desk; Build A High Quality
Audio Oscillator, Pt.2; The Incredible Hot Canaries; Random Wire
Antenna Tuner For 6 Metres; Phone Patch For Radio Amateurs, Pt.2.
July 1991: Loudspeaker Protector For Stereo Amplifiers; 4-Channel
Lighting Desk, Pt.2; How To Install Multiple TV Outlets, Pt.2; Tuning
In To Satellite TV, Pt.2.
March 1990: Delay Unit For Automatic Antennas; Workout Timer For
Aerobics Classes; 16-Channel Mixing Desk, Pt.2; Using The UC3906
SLA Battery Charger IC; The Australian VFT Project.
September 1991: Digital Altimeter For Gliders & Ultralights;
Ultrasonic Switch For Mains Appliances; The Basics Of A/D & D/A
Conversion; Plotting The Course Of Thunderstorms.
April 1990: Dual Tracking ±50V Power Supply; Voice-Operated
Switch (VOX) With Delayed Audio; 16-Channel Mixing Desk, Pt.3;
Active CW Filter; Servicing Your Microwave Oven.
October 1991: Build A Talking Voltmeter For Your PC, Pt.1;
SteamSound Simulator For Model Railways Mk.II; Magnetic Field
Strength Meter; Digital Altimeter For Gliders, Pt.2; Military Applications Of R/C Aircraft.
June 1990: Multi-Sector Home Burglar Alarm; Build A Low-Noise
Universal Stereo Preamplifier; Load Protector For Power Supplies;
Speed Alarm For Your Car.
July 1990: Digital Sine/Square Generator, Pt.1 (covers 0-500kHz);
Burglar Alarm Keypad & Combination Lock; Build A Simple Electronic Die; A Low-Cost Dual Power Supply; Inside A Coal Burning
Power Station.
August 1990: High Stability UHF Remote Transmitter; Universal
Safety Timer For Mains Appliances (9 Minutes); Horace The Electronic Cricket; Digital Sine/Square Generator, Pt.2.
September 1990: A Low-Cost 3-Digit Counter Module; Build A
Simple Shortwave Converter For The 2-Metre Band; The Bose
Lifestyle Music System (Review); The Care & Feeding Of Nicad
Battery Packs (Getting The Most From Nicad Batteries).
November 1991: Build A Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.1; A
Junkbox 2-Valve Receiver; Flashing Alarm Light For Cars; Digital
Altimeter For Gliders, Pt.3; Build A Talking Voltmeter For Your PC,
Pt.2; Build a Turnstile Antenna For Weather Satellite Reception.
December 1991: TV Transmitter For VCRs With UHF Modulators;
Infrared Light Beam Relay; Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.2;
Index To Volume 4.
January 1992: 4-Channel Guitar Mixer; Adjustable 0-45V 8A Power
Supply, Pt.1; Baby Room Monitor/FM Transmitter; Experiments
For Your Games Card.
January 1993: Flea-Power AM Radio Transmitter; High Intensity
LED Flasher For Bicycles; 2kW 24VDC To 240VAC Sinewave Inverter,
Pt.4; Speed Controller For Electric Models, Pt.3.
February 1993: Three Projects For Model Railroads; Low Fuel
Indicator For Cars; Audio Level/VU Meter (LED Readout); An Electronic Cockroach; 2kW 24VDC To 240VAC Sinewave Inverter, Pt.5.
March 1993: Solar Charger For 12V Batteries; Alarm-Triggered
Security Camera; Reaction Trainer; Audio Mixer for Camcorders;
A 24-Hour Sidereal Clock For Astronomers.
April 1993: Solar-Powered Electric Fence; Audio Power Meter;
Three-Function Home Weather Station; 12VDC To 70VDC Converter;
Digital Clock With Battery Back-Up.
May 1993: Nicad Cell Discharger; Build The Woofer Stopper;
Alphanumeric LCD Demonstration Board; The Story of Aluminium.
June 1993: AM Radio Trainer, Pt.1; Remote Control For The Woofer
Stopper; Digital Voltmeter For Cars; Build A Windows-Based
Logic Analyser.
July 1993: Single Chip Message Recorder; Light Beam Relay
Extender; AM Radio Trainer, Pt.2; Quiz Game Adjudicator; Windows-Based Logic Analyser, Pt.2; Antenna Tuners – Why They
Are Useful.
August 1993: Low-Cost Colour Video Fader; 60-LED Brake Light
Array; Microprocessor-Based Sidereal Clock; Southern Cross Z80Based Computer; A Look At Satellites & Their Orbits.
September 1993: Automatic Nicad Battery Charger/Discharger; Stereo Preamplifier With IR Remote Control, Pt.1; In-Circuit Transistor
Tester; +5V to ±15V DC Converter; Remote-Controlled Cockroach.
October 1993: Courtesy Light Switch-Off Timer For Cars; Wireless
Microphone For Musicians; Stereo Preamplifier With IR Remote
Control, Pt.2; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.1.
November 1993: High Efficiency Inverter For Fluorescent Tubes;
Stereo Preamplifier With IR Remote Control, Pt.3; Siren Sound Generator; Engine Management, Pt.2; Experiments For Games Cards.
December 1993: Remote Controller For Garage Doors; Build A
LED Stroboscope; Build A 25W Audio Amplifier Module; A 1-Chip
Melody Generator; Engine Management, Pt.3; Index To Volume 6.
January 1994: 3A 40V Adjustable Power Supply; Switching Regulator For Solar Panels; Printer Status Indicator; Mini Drill Speed
Controller; Stepper Motor Controller; Active Filter Design; Engine
Management, Pt.4.
February 1994: Build A 90-Second Message Recorder; 12-240VAC
200W Inverter; 0.5W Audio Amplifier; 3A 40V Adjustable Power
Supply; Engine Management, Pt.5; Airbags In Cars – How They
Work.
March 1992: TV Transmitter For VHF VCRs; Thermostatic Switch
For Car Radiator Fans; Coping With Damaged Computer Directories;
Guide Valve Substitution In Vintage Radios.
March 1994: Intelligent IR Remote Controller; 50W (LM3876)
Audio Amplifier Module; Level Crossing Detector For Model
Railways; Voice Activated Switch For FM Microphones; Engine
Management, Pt.6.
October 1990: The Dangers of PCBs; Low-Cost Siren For Burglar
Alarms; Dimming Controls For The Discolight; Surfsound Simulator;
DC Offset For DMMs; NE602 Converter Circuits.
April 1992: IR Remote Control For Model Railroads; Differential
Input Buffer For CROs; Understanding Computer Memory; Aligning
Vintage Radio Receivers, Pt.1.
April 1994: Sound & Lights For Model Railway Level Crossings;
Discrete Dual Supply Voltage Regulator; Universal Stereo Preamplifier; Digital Water Tank Gauge; Engine Management, Pt.7.
November 1990: Connecting Two TV Sets To One VCR; Build An Egg
Timer; Low-Cost Model Train Controller; 1.5V To 9V DC Converter;
Introduction To Digital Electronics; 6-Metre Amateur Transmitter.
May 1992: Build A Telephone Intercom; Electronic Doorbell; Battery
Eliminator For Personal Players; Infrared Remote Control For Model
Railroads, Pt.2; Aligning Vintage Radio Receivers, Pt.2.
May 1994: Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries; Induction Balance
Metal Locator; Multi-Channel Infrared Remote Control; Dual Electronic Dice; Simple Servo Driver Circuits; Engine Management, Pt.8.
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June 1994: 200W/350W Mosfet Amplifier Module; A Coolant Level Alarm
For Your Car; 80-Metre AM/CW Transmitter For Amateurs; Converting
Phono Inputs To Line Inputs; PC-Based Nicad Battery Monitor; Engine
Management, Pt.9.
July 1996: Installing a Dual Boot Windows System On Your PC;
Build A VGA Digital Oscilloscope, Pt.1; Remote Control Extender
For VCRs; 2A SLA Battery Charger; 3-Band Parametric Equaliser;
Single Channel 8-bit Data Logger.
June 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.2; Understanding Electric Lighting,
Pt.7; Universal High Energy Ignition System; The Roadies’ Friend Cable
Tester; Universal Stepper Motor Controller; Command Control For Model
Railways, Pt.5.
July 1994: Build A 4-Bay Bow-Tie UHF Antenna; PreChamp 2-Transistor
Preamplifier; Steam Train Whistle & Diesel Horn Simulator; Portable 6V
SLA Battery Charger; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.10.
August 1996: Electronics on the Internet; Customising the
Windows Desktop; Introduction to IGBTs; Electronic Starter For
Fluorescent Lamps; VGA Oscilloscope, Pt.2; 350W Amplifier
Module; Masthead Amplifier For TV & FM; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.4.
July 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.3 (Installing A Modem And Sorting Out
Problems); Build A Heat Controller; 15-Watt Class-A Audio Amplifier Module;
Simple Charger For 6V & 12V SLA Batteries; Automatic Semiconductor
Analyser; Understanding Electric Lighting, Pt.8.
August 1994: High-Power Dimmer For Incandescent Lights; Microprocessor-Controlled Morse Keyer; Dual Diversity Tuner For FM Microphones, Pt.1; Nicad Zapper; Engine Management, Pt.11.
September 1994: Automatic Discharger For Nicad Battery Packs; MiniVox Voice Operated Relay; Image Intensified Night Viewer; AM Radio
For Weather Beacons; Dual Diversity Tuner For FM Microphones, Pt.2;
Engine Management, Pt.12.
October 1994: How Dolby Surround Sound Works; Dual Rail Variable
Power Supply; Build A Talking Headlight Reminder; Electronic Ballast For
Fluorescent Lights; Build A Temperature Controlled Soldering Station;
Electronic Engine Management, Pt.13.
November 1994: Dry Cell Battery Rejuvenator; Novel Alphanumeric
Clock; 80-Metre DSB Amateur Transmitter; Twin-Cell Nicad Discharger
(See May 1993); How To Plot Patterns Direct to PC Boards.
September 1996: VGA Oscilloscope, Pt.3; IR Stereo Headphone
Link, Pt.1; High Quality PA Loudspeaker; 3-Band HF Amateur Radio
Receiver; Feedback On Programmable Ignition (see March 1996);
Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.5.
October 1996: Send Video Signals Over Twisted Pair Cable; Power
Control With A Light Dimmer; 600W DC-DC Converter For Car Hifi
Systems, Pt.1; IR Stereo Headphone Link, Pt.2; Build A Multi-Media
Sound System, Pt.1; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter, Pt.8.
November 1996: Adding A Parallel Port To Your Computer; 8-Channel Stereo Mixer, Pt.1; Low-Cost Fluorescent Light Inverter; How
To Repair Domestic Light Dimmers; Build A Multi-Media Sound
System, Pt.2; 600W DC-DC Converter For Car Hifi Systems, Pt.2.
August 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.4 (Adding Extra Memory To
Your PC); Build The Opus One Loudspeaker System; Simple I/O Card With
Automatic Data Logging; Build A Beat Triggered Strobe; A 15-Watt Per Channel
Class-A Stereo Amplifier.
September 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.5 (Software Problems & DOS
Games); A Blocked Air-Filter Alarm; A Waa-Waa Pedal For Your Guitar; Build A
Plasma Display Or Jacob’s Ladder; Gear Change Indicator For Cars; Capacity
Indicator For Rechargeable Batteries.
October 1998: CPU Upgrades & Overclocking; Lab Quality AC Millivoltmeter,
Pt.1; PC-Controlled Stress-O-Meter; Versatile Electronic Guitar Limiter; 12V
Trickle Charger For Float Conditions; Adding An External Battery Pack To
Your Flashgun.
December 1996: CD Recorders – The Next Add-On For Your PC;
Active Filter Cleans Up CW Reception; Fast Clock For Railway
Modellers; Laser Pistol & Electronic Target; Build A Sound Level
Meter; 8-Channel Stereo Mixer, Pt.2; Index To Volume 9.
November 1998: The Christmas Star (Microprocessor-Controlled Christmas
Decoration); A Turbo Timer For Cars; Build A Poker Machine, Pt.1; FM
Transmitter For Musicians; Lab Quality AC Millivoltmeter, Pt.2; Setting Up
A LAN Using TCP/IP; Understanding Electric Lighting, Pt.9; Improving AM
Radio Reception, Pt.1.
January 1995: Sun Tracker For Solar Panels; Battery Saver For Torches;
Dolby Pro-Logic Surround Sound Decoder, Pt.2; Dual Channel UHF
Remote Control; Stereo Microphone Preamplifier.
January 1997: How To Network Your PC; Control Panel For Multiple
Smoke Alarms, Pt.1; Build A Pink Noise Source (For Sound Level
Meter Calibration); Computer Controlled Dual Power Supply, Pt.1;
Digi-Temp Monitors Eight Temperatures.
December 1998: Protect Your Car With The Engine Immobiliser Mk.2;
Thermocouple Adaptor For DMMs; A Regulated 12V DC Plugpack; Build
Your Own Poker Machine, Pt.2; Improving AM Radio Reception, Pt.2; Mixer
Module For F3B Glider Operations.
February 1995: 50-Watt/Channel Stereo Amplifier Module; Digital Effects
Unit For Musicians; 6-Channel Thermometer With LCD Readout; Wide
Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers, Pt.1; Oil Change Timer For Cars;
Remote Control System For Models, Pt.2.
February 1997: Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.6; PC-Controlled
Moving Message Display; Computer Controlled Dual Power Supply,
Pt.2; Alert-A-Phone Loud Sounding Alarm; Control Panel For
Multiple Smoke Alarms, Pt.2.
January 1999: The Y2K Bug & A Few Other Worries; High-Voltage Megohm
Tester; Getting Going With BASIC Stamp; LED Bargraph Ammeter For Cars;
Keypad Engine Immobiliser; Improving AM Radio Reception, Pt.3; Electric
Lighting, Pt.10
March 1995: 50 Watt Per Channel Stereo Amplifier, Pt.1; Subcarrier
Decoder For FM Receivers; Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers,
Pt.2; IR Illuminator For CCD Cameras; Remote Control System For
Models, Pt.3; Simple CW Filter.
March 1997: Driving A Computer By Remote Control; Plastic Power
PA Amplifier (175W); Signalling & Lighting For Model Railways;
Build A Jumbo LED Clock; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.7.
February 1999: Installing A Computer Network (Network Types, Hubs, Switches & Routers); Making Front Panels For Your Projects; Low Distortion Audio
Signal Generator, Pt.1; Command Control Decoder For Model Railways; Build
A Digital Capacitance Meter; Remote Control Tester; Electric Lighting, Pt.11.
December 1994: Dolby Pro-Logic Surround Sound Decoder, Pt.1;
Easy-To-Build Car Burglar Alarm; Three-Spot Low Distortion Sinewave
Oscillator; Clifford – A Pesky Electronic Cricket; Remote Control System
for Models, Pt.1; Index to Vol.7.
April 1995: FM Radio Trainer, Pt.1; Photographic Timer For Darkrooms;
Balanced Microphone Preamp. & Line Filter; 50W/Channel Stereo
Amplifier, Pt.2; Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers, Pt.3; 8-Channel
Decoder For Radio Remote Control.
May 1995: Build A Guitar Headphone Amplifier; FM Radio Trainer, Pt.2;
Transistor/Mosfet Tester For DMMs; A 16-Channel Decoder For Radio
Remote Control; Introduction to Satellite TV.
June 1995: Build A Satellite TV Receiver; Train Detector For Model
Railways; 1W Audio Amplifier Trainer; Low-Cost Video Security System;
Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter For Models, Pt.1.
July 1995: Electric Fence Controller; How To Run Two Trains On A Single
Track (Incl. Lights & Sound); Setting Up A Satellite TV Ground Station;
Build A Reliable Door Minder.
August 1995: Fuel Injector Monitor For Cars; Gain Controlled Microphone
Preamp; Audio Lab PC-Controlled Test Instrument, Pt.1; Mighty-Mite
Powered Loudspeaker; How To Identify IDE Hard Disc Drive Parameters.
September 1995: Railpower Mk.2 Walkaround Throttle For Model Railways, Pt.1; Keypad Combination Lock; The Vader Voice; Jacob’s Ladder
Display; Audio Lab PC-Controlled Test Instrument, Pt.2.
October 1995: Geiger Counter; 3-Way Bass Reflex Loudspeaker
System; Railpower Mk.2 Walkaround Throttle For Model Railways,
Pt.2; Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries; Digital Speedometer & Fuel
Gauge For Cars, Pt.1.
November 1995: Mixture Display For Fuel Injected Cars; CB Transverter
For The 80M Amateur Band, Pt.1; PIR Movement Detector; Dolby Pro
Logic Surround Sound Decoder Mk.2, Pt.1; Digital Speedometer & Fuel
Gauge For Cars, Pt.2.
April 1997: Avoiding Win95 Hassles With Motherboard Upgrades;
Simple Timer With No ICs; Digital Voltmeter For Cars; Loudspeaker
Protector For Stereo Amplifiers; Model Train Controller; A Look At
Signal Tracing; Pt.1; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.8.
May 1997: Teletext Decoder For PCs; Build An NTSC-PAL Converter;
Neon Tube Modulator For Light Systems; Traffic Lights For A Model
Intersection; The Spacewriter – It Writes Messages In Thin Air; A
Look At Signal Tracing; Pt.2; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.9.
June 1997: Tuning Up Your Hard Disc Drive; PC-Controlled
Thermometer/Thermostat; Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.1;
Build An Audio/RF Signal Tracer; High-Current Speed Controller
For 12V/24V Motors; Manual Control Circuit For A Stepper
Motor; Fail-Safe Module For The Throttle Servo; Cathode Ray
Oscilloscopes, Pt.10.
July 1997: Infrared Remote Volume Control; A Flexible Interface
Card For PCs; Points Controller For Model Railways; Simple
Square/Triangle Waveform Generator; Colour TV Pattern Generator,
Pt.2; An In-Line Mixer For Radio Control Receivers.
August 1997: The Bass Barrel Subwoofer; 500 Watt Audio Power
Amplifier Module; A TENs Unit For Pain Relief; Addressable PC
Card For Stepper Motor Control; Remote Controlled Gates For
Your Home.
September 1997: Multi-Spark Capacitor Discharge Ignition; 500W
Audio Power Amplifier, Pt.2; A Video Security System For Your
Home; PC Card For Controlling Two Stepper Motors; HiFi On A
Budget; Win95, MSDOS.SYS & The Registry.
October 1997: Build A 5-Digit Tachometer; Add Central Locking
To Your Car; PC-Controlled 6-Channel Voltmeter; 500W Audio
Power Amplifier, Pt.3; Customising The Windows 95 Start Menu.
December 1995: Engine Immobiliser; 5-Band Equaliser; CB Transverter
For The 80M Amateur Band, Pt.2; Subwoofer Controller; Dolby Pro
Logic Surround Sound Decoder Mk.2, Pt.2; Knock Sensing In Cars;
Index To Volume 8.
November 1997: Heavy Duty 10A 240VAC Motor Speed Controller;
Easy-To-Use Cable & Wiring Tester; Build A Musical Doorbell; Relocating Your CD-ROM Drive; Replacing Foam Speaker Surrounds;
Understanding Electric Lighting Pt.1.
January 1996: Surround Sound Mixer & Decoder, Pt.1; Magnetic Card
Reader; Build An Automatic Sprinkler Controller; IR Remote Control
For The Railpower Mk.2; Recharging Nicad Batteries For Long Life.
December 1997: A Heart Transplant For An Aging Computer;
Build A Speed Alarm For Your Car; Two-Axis Robot With Gripper;
Loudness Control For Car Hifi Systems; Stepper Motor Driver
With Onboard Buffer; Power Supply For Stepper Motor Cards;
Understanding Electric Lighting Pt.2; Index To Volume 10.
February 1996: Three Remote Controls To Build; Woofer Stopper Mk.2;
10-Minute Kill Switch For Smoke Detectors; Basic Logic Trainer; Surround
Sound Mixer & Decoder, Pt.2.
March 1996: Programmable Electronic Ignition System; Zener Diode
Tester For DMMs; Automatic Level Control For PA Systems; 20ms Delay
For Surround Sound Decoders; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter;
Pt.2; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.1.
April 1996: Cheap Battery Refills For Mobile Telephones; 125W
Audio Power Amplifier Module; Knock Indicator For Leaded Petrol
Engines; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter; Pt.3; Cathode Ray
Oscilloscopes, Pt.2.
January 1998: Build Your Own 4-Channel Lightshow, Pt.1 (runs off
12VDC or 12VAC); Command Control System For Model Railways,
Pt.1; Pan Controller For CCD Cameras; Build A One Or Two-Lamp
Flasher; Understanding Electric Lighting, Pt.3.
February 1998: Hot Web Sites For Surplus Bits; Multi-Purpose
Fast Battery Charger, Pt.1; Telephone Exchange Simulator For
Testing; Command Control System For Model Railways, Pt.2;
Demonstration Board For Liquid Crystal Displays; Build Your Own
4-Channel Lightshow, Pt.2; Understanding Electric Lighting, Pt.4.
May 1996: Upgrading The CPU In Your PC; High Voltage Insulation
Tester; Knightrider Bi-Directional LED Chaser; Simple Duplex Intercom
Using Fibre Optic Cable; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.3.
April 1998: Automatic Garage Door Opener, Pt.1; 40V 8A Adjustable
Power Supply, Pt.1; PC-Controlled 0-30kHz Sinewave Generator;
Build A Laser Light Show; Understanding Electric Lighting; Pt.6;
Jet Engines In Model Aircraft.
June 1996: BassBox CAD Loudspeaker Software Reviewed; Stereo
Simulator (uses delay chip); Rope Light Chaser; Low Ohms Tester For
Your DMM; Automatic 10A Battery Charger.
May 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.1; Build A 3-LED Logic
Probe; Automatic Garage Door Opener, Pt.2; Command Control
For Model Railways, Pt.4; 40V 8A Adjustable Power Supply, Pt.2.
March 1999: Getting Started With Linux; Pt.1; Build A Digital
Anemometer; 3-Channel Current Monitor With Data Logging; Simple DIY PIC
Programmer; Easy-To-Build Audio Compressor; Low Distortion Audio Signal
Generator, Pt.2; Electric Lighting, Pt.12.
April 1999: Getting Started With Linux; Pt.2; High-Power Electric Fence Controller; Bass Cube Subwoofer; Programmable Thermostat/Thermometer; Build
An Infrared Sentry; Rev Limiter For Cars; Electric Lighting, Pt.13; Autopilots
For Radio-Controlled Model Aircraft.
May 1999: The Line Dancer Robot; An X-Y Table With Stepper Motor Control,
Pt.1; Three Electric Fence Testers; Heart Of LEDs; Build A Carbon Monoxide
Alarm; Getting Started With Linux; Pt.3.
June 1999: FM Radio Tuner Card For PCs; X-Y Table With Stepper Motor
Control, Pt.2; Programmable Ignition Timing Module For Cars, Pt.1; Hard
Disk Drive Upgrades Without Reinstalling Software; What Is A Groundplane
Antenna?; Getting Started With Linux; Pt.4.
July 1999: Build The Dog Silencer; A 10µH to 19.99mH Inductance Meter;
Build An Audio-Video Transmitter; Programmable Ignition Timing Module For
Cars, Pt.2; XYZ Table With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.3; The Hexapod Robot.
August 1999: Remote Modem Controller; Daytime Running Lights For Cars;
Build A PC Monitor Checker; Switching Temperature Controller; XYZ Table
With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.4; Electric Lighting, Pt.14; DOS & Windows
Utilities For Reversing Protel PC Board Files.
September 1999: Automatic Addressing On TCP/IP Networks; Wireless
Networking Without The Hassles; Autonomouse The Robot, Pt.1; Voice Direct
Speech Recognition Module; Digital Electrolytic Capacitance Meter; XYZ Table
With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.5; Peltier-Powered Can Cooler.
October 1999: Sharing A Modem For Internet & Email Access (WinGate);
Build The Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.1; Semiconductor Curve Tracer;
Autonomouse The Robot, Pt.2; XYZ Table With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.6;
Introducing Home Theatre.
November 1999: USB – Hassle-Free Connections TO Your PC; Electric Lighting,
Pt.15; Setting Up An Email Server; Speed Alarm For Cars, Pt.1; Multi-Colour LED
Christmas Tree; Build An Intercom Station Expander; Foldback Loudspeaker
System For Musicians; Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.2.
December 1999: Internet Connection Sharing Using Hardware; Electric
Lighting, Pt.16; Index To Volume 12; Build A Solar Panel Regulator; The PC
Powerhouse (gives fixed +12V, +9V, +6V & +5V rails); The Fortune Finder Metal
Locator; Speed Alarm For Cars, Pt.2; Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.3.
January 2000: Spring Reverberation Module; An Audio-Video Test Generator; Build The Picman Programmable Robot; A Parallel Port Interface
Card; Off-Hook Indicator For Telephone Lines; B&W Nautilus 801 Monitor
Loudspeakers (Review).
PLEASE NOTE: November 1987 to August 1988, October 1988 to
March 1989, June 1989, August 1989, December 1989, May 1990,
August 1991, February 1992, July 1992, September 1992, November
1992, December 1992 and March 1998 are now sold out. All other
issues are presently in stock. For readers wanting articles from
sold-out issues, we can supply photostat copies (or tear sheets) at
$7.00 per article (includes p&p). When supplying photostat articles
or back copies, we automatically supply any relevant notes & errata
at no extra charge. A complete index to all articles published to
date is available on floppy disc for $10 including p&p, or can be
downloaded free from our web site: www.siliconchip.com.au
FEBRUARY 2000 89
You’ve seen all those other low-cost Internet access offers?
The ones which look great until you read the fine print?
Well, here's one without fine print!
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90 S
ilicon
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ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Write to: Ask Silicon Chip, PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097.
Train controller
transformer
Can you please assist me with
the Train Controller featured in the
April 1997 issue? I purchased a kit
from Dick Smith Electronics (K-3029)
and I have assembled it but I cannot
work out how to connect the 15V AC
transformer I swiped out of an old
controller.
Your circuit shows three connections for a centre-tapped 9V per side
transformer to the board but seeing as
I only have two from my transformer
(0V and 15VAC) I cannot figure out
how to connect it. Can you help? (B.
L., via email)
• The circuit on page 67 of the
April 1997 issue shows how a single
winding 12VAC transformer can be
connected. Simply connect the 0V
terminal of the transformer to ground
and the 15V terminal to one side of
the bridge rectifier BR1. On the PC
board you connect one transformer
wire to the centre of the three input
terminals and the other transformer
wire to one of the other terminals to
the left or right. The third terminal is
left unconnected.
In effect, you are connecting the
transformer so that it drives just two
Multi-Spark CDI
timing queries
I recently purchased the CDI
kitset as featured in the September
1997 issue of SILICON CHIP and have
some questions about the unit to
help me understand how it works.
What was the formula you employed to get the values for sparks
presented as the product’s specifications? I am unable to see how
the above information is related
to Table 1 (RPM vs. Spark No. &
Duration) on page 23. For example,
please provide a mathematical formula on how to get:
(a) four sparks covering 37° of
diodes in the bridge rectifier; ie, you
will have two half-wave rectifiers
feeding the 4700µF capacitors.
However, there is a problem in that
15VAC is a little too high for the application. You will probably find that
the rectified DC voltage will be well
over 20V and if you apply this voltage
to your locos they will scream around
the track. The DC voltage may also
be a little high for the capacitors and
it may be wise to replace the 4700µF
25VW types with a higher voltage
rating, say 35VW.
By the way, we published Notes &
Errata on this circuit in the August
1999 issue on how to avoid a brief
backward lurch from the loco when
power is first applied.
Clifford the cricket
is comatose
I recently purchased Clifford the
electronic cricket, as described the
December 1994 issue of SILICON CHIP.
I’m having some trouble getting him
to work. When I connect the battery,
the LEDs light and then when I block
out the light nothing happens and
the LEDs stay on. Do you need a
multimeter? Can you help me? (P. H.,
via email).
crankshaft rotation at 4500 RPM for
a 4-cylinder engine?
(b) eight sparks covering 20° of
crankshaft rotation at 1400 RPM
for an 8-cylinder engine? (M. R.,
via email).
• The spark duration table is based
on the fact that the there are always
multiples of two sparks produced.
The duration and spacing was measured with an oscilloscope when
driving a standard ignition coil.
The times may vary with different
coils and the calculations will vary
slightly from the measured values
due to differences in charging the
timing capacitors.
The crankshaft angle is derived
•
It should be possible to get Clifford going without a multimeter. It
is possible that you have transposed
the two transistors, Q1 and Q2, on the
PC board. Check that Q1 is a BC548
or BC547 and that Q2 is a BC557 or
BC558. Also check the diode orientation for D1 and D2. The anode (A) is
the end of the diode with the stripe.
Both anodes for D1 and D2 should be
toward the 3.3kΩ resistor.
The overlay diagram for this is a
little tricky but if you place diode
D1 with the stripe up and D2 with
the stripe down and with the wire
lead and body placed as shown, the
orientation will be correct.
If Clifford still does not operate,
check the placement of the resistors
using the published colour code as a
guide to reading their values.
4Ω version of
foldback loudspeaker
I refer to your excellent foldback
loudspeaker presented in the November 1999 issue. As I already have a
suitable power amplifier which delivers 200W into 4Ω but only around
80W into 16Ω, I would like to modify
the design so it has a nominal impedance of 4Ω. I assume the two drivers
by calculating the rotation of the
shaft over the total spark duration.
For example, the four sparks at
4500 RPM for a 4-cylinder engine
gives 37°. At 4500 RPM, the frequency of rotation is 4500/60 or
75Hz. This is a duration of 13.3ms.
The duration of four sparks is about
1.3ms and so we have 1.3/13.3 x
360° = 35°.
The result for eight sparks at 1500
RPM, giving 20° of crankshaft rotation, is calculated similarly: 1400
RPM is 23Hz or 43ms; eight sparks
is 3.1ms and 3.1/43 x 360° is 25°.
As you can see, the calculations
do fit the measured values reasonably closely.
FEBRUARY 2000 91
Signal loading
problem in rev limiter
I am building the Rev Limiter kit
described in April 1999 to show
three shift lights. I have an imported
Nissan Skyline which is already
factory rev-limited so I don’t need
the Ignition Switcher as well. I have
a second “interceptor” computer
which controls fuel for different
revs. It is hooked to the factory
computer for positive, earth, revs,
air flow, throttle position and fuel.
I hooked the Rev Limiter up to
my factory computer for positive,
earth and rev wires, the same as the
second computer. When powered
up the Limiter circuit seems to
sense the different speeds and the
lights come on OK and the second
computer continues to show correct
revs. However, my in-dash tacho
stops working. It starts working
again if I cut the earth return to the
Rev Limiter kit.
I then changed to the Hall Effect/
Points/Distributor input which
gives me back the tacho but doesn’t
seem to detect revs for the shift
lights.
Do I need to isolate the Rev Limiter kit from the computer by putting
in a diode on the input to allow
one-way signals into it? Can you
possibly shed some light on what I
need to do to get it working? (G. J.,
via email).
• It is possible that the loading
from the low voltage input is upsetting the tachometer. The ignition
coil input is not sensitive enough to
detect the low voltage signal. You
could try a diode connected in series with the 1kΩ low voltage input
to isolate the signal and connect it
with the anode to the low voltage
input and the cathode to the 1kΩ
resistor.
Alternatively, you could connect
to the ignition coil input if the 22kΩ
resistor is reduced to 1kΩ.
would be connected in parallel but
how is the crossover modified? (G.
D., via email).
• The loudspeakers can be connected
in parallel to provide a nominal 4Ω
impedance. The inductor should be
reduced in value to 450µH.
Since the woofer sensitivity will
increase by 6dB it is necessary to remove the 0.33µF capacitor in series
with the tweeter and replace it with
a short circuit. Make sure the phasing
of woofers and tweeter is as shown
on the diagram on page 73 of the
November issue. Also both woofers
should be connected with the plus
terminals tied together. The plus side
then connects to L1 and the two minus
terminals to the common ground.
seem to align fairly closely in three
different positions. When I use the
position which puts the white line
or knob marker closest to the start of
the dial selections on the panel, the
first selection is not aligned to the
first position of the knob by one click.
What do I do? (S. D., via email).
• The switch can be placed in any of
the three possible orientations. This is
because the poles of the switches can
be interchanged and used for any of
the switching functions. The type of
knob must be able to be adjusted to
align correctly with the panel markings. Some plastic knobs can be adjusted by removing the front pointer
plate and repositioning correctly in
place in line with the panel markings.
Audio signal generator
switch confusion
Speed Alert for
racing car
I am trying to assemble the Audio
Signal Generator described in the
February & March 1999 issues. It has
been about 15 years since I did any
circuit board work and I must confess
that I am puzzled with your rotary
switch (S2) alignment instructions
(page 66, March 1999).
How do I know when I have the
switch properly located over the
drilled holes? You see, the holes
I read with interest John Clarke’s
Speed Alert project in the November
1999 issue. Is there any way of modifying this kit to indicate a higher
speed? I noted that John mentioned
that this kit was not suitable for racing
cars but I do need an electronic speedo
for my racing car. (P. M., via email).
• The software could be changed
to accommodate a higher reading of
speed up to 255km/h but not without
92 Silicon Chip
some major changes. If other readers
are interested, we would consider
producing a modified version however it seems likely that 255km/h would
not be sufficiently high for a racing
application.
Pulse counting with
the Stress-O-Meter
I have made the pulse counting
section of the Stress-O-Meter project
in the October 1998 issue of SILICON
CHIP, with both the connections to it
from the games and printer port. It
should work since I have checked all
the components. The problem is that I
can’t use it with the software on your
website because you include the GSR
section which I don’t want.
How do I change the Q-Basic software so that it will display my average pulse rate on the screen without
needing a GSR input? Can this be done
easily or do I need the other section of
the project? (D. T., via email).
• All you should have to do is to
delete lines 80, 100, 110 and 120. You
will have to use CTRL+PAUSE to exit
the program. Deleting these lines will
allow the program to continually loop
to subroutine 3030.
Sensitivity of carbon
monoxide alarm
In the May 1999 issue, you published a circuit for a carbon monoxide sensor using a Nemoto sensing
element. You incorporated the sensor into a voltage divider to obtain
the right sort of levels to feed to a
comparator. The problem is, from
the manufacturer’s chart that I have,
the sensor should have about 27kΩ
resistance at 200 ppm CO but your
design seems to use a value closer to
around 20kΩ (it’s difficult to tell as
you used a trimpot in the divider).
Can you tell me how you arrived at
your figures? (N. S., via email).
• The CO Alarm is an uncalibrated
unit and is set so that the alarm does
not sound under normal driving
circumstances. Trimpot VR2 does
not allow the sensitivity to be set as
low as 200 ppm since this would be
too sensitive in our application. You
could substitute a 10kΩ trimpot for
VR2 to allow adjustment down 200
ppm.
Note that the 27kΩ resistance of
the CO sensor at 200 ppm is a typical
value only and does not describe a
precise calibration.
100W PA
amplifier wanted
I am contemplating constructing
a PA amplifier with six inputs; five
microphone and one auxiliary. I have
searched through my older magazines
but cannot find anything that meets
my needs. I require 100 watts RMS
into a suitable matching transformer
for 100V line use. Have you at any
time produced such a design?
There are a number of good kits
available for a main amplifier but
none have a suitable preamplifier
to match into. Have you any suggestions? (E. C., Bundaberg, Qld).
• We published a 120W PA amp with
100V line transformer in the December 1988 and January 1989 issues.
We can supply photocopies of these
articles at $7 each including postage.
No picture from PC
monitor checker
I constructed the PC Monitor
Check
er project published in the
August 1999 issue from a Jaycar kit.
The only problem I found was that a
.01µF ceramic capacitor was supplied
but both the layout and circuit call
for a 100pF ceramic capacitor (I used
a 100pF capacitor, as specified). My
problem is that I am unable to get a
picture in sync on a known working
monitor. Your help would be appreciated. (D. B., via email).
• The capacitor associated with pin
3 of IC3 is 100pF as shown. If you
are not getting a picture there could
be any number of faults which could
stop the signal getting through. You
really need to check for the existence
of video signals at the emitters of the
Class A amplifier
questions
I would like to ask several
questions pertaining to the class A
amplifier published in July 1998.
(1) Apart from Altronics, are there
any other places where kits can
be obtained? (2) What is the openloop bandwidth of the amplifier?
(3) How much could the supply
rails be increased before the circuit
would need altering (neglecting the
need for increased heatsinking)?
(A. B., via email).
five transistors, using an oscilloscope.
If you don’t have one, try setting the
unit for 15kHz operation and then
connect the composite video output
to drive a normal video monitor.
Longer ticking egg
timer wanted
I want to build the ticking egg timer
described in the November 1990 issue
but I want to have a longer time. How
do I do it? (S. W., via email).
• The way to increase the time is to
increase the time constant of oscillator IC1a. This can be done by using
a larger pot for VR1 (say 1MΩ) or a
larger capacitor instead of the 0.1µF.
Digital tacho
adjustment procedure
I purchased and assembled a digital
tachometer from the February 1994 issue but I have now lost the calibration
instructions. I need to know which
resistor I have to adjust so that it can
work on 4, 6 and 8-cylinder engines.
If possible, could you tell me the re-
•
Altronics is the only source for
this kit. We have not measured the
open-loop bandwidth but it should
be in excess of 20kHz.
The main limitations on the supply rails are the ratings of Q11 and
Q13, the small signal transistors
used as drivers. If you wanted to
run at high current and voltage,
you would have to substitute much
higher-rated transistors for Q11
& Q13. Trouble is, virtually any
bigger transistor you find will have
poorer frequency-gain product and
so the performance will suffer.
sistances that are required and which
resistor it is? (D. B., via email).
• There was no tacho project in February 1994 so we assume you mean
the circuit in August 1991. The resistor marked Rx, in series with trimpot
VR1, should be 82kΩ for 4-cylinder
engines, 56kΩ for 6-cylinders and
47kΩ for V8s. We can still supply a
photostat copy of the article if you
wish, for $7 including postage.
Notes & Errata
Switching Temperature Controller,
August 1999: two capaci
t ors are
marked C6 on the circuit. The 100µF
capacitor associated with diode D1
should be C2. Also the text in the
last paragraph on page 58 is wrong. It
should read: the BUK453 is for cooling,
the IRF9530 is for heating.
Refinements To PC Monitor Checker,
Circuit Notebook, November 1999: the
rotary switch is incorrectly labelled
12345 in an anticlockwise direction
from top to bottom. The correct labelSC
ling sequence is 43215.
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be
carried out according to the instructions in the articles. When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do
not accidentally come into contact with mains AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects
employing mains voltages or other high voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd
disclaims any liability for damages should anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of
SILICON CHIP magazine. Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any
liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims
any liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the Trade
Practices Act 1974 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are applicable.
FEBRUARY 2000 93
MARKET CENTRE
Cash in your surplus gear. Advertise it here in Silicon Chip.
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To run your classified ad, print it clearly in the space below or on a separate
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FOR SALE
RAIN BRAIN AND DIGI-TEMP KITS: 8
station sprinkler controllers, 60 channel
temp monitor uses DS1820s over 500
metres. Has PC Data logging. Mantis
Micro Products,
http://www.home.aone.net.au/mantismp
TELEPHONE EXCHANGE SIMULATOR, SC February 1998. Test equipment without the cost of telephone lines.
Melbourne 9806 0110.
ELECTRONIC/MECHANICAL DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION: we
offer a complete design service for
electronic and mechanical devices.
Most work is done in house and you
deal directly with the designers. No job
is too small and can be to prototype or
“turn key” stage, in one offs or for future
production. Simply send us an email at
vladimir<at>u030.aone.net.au with your
questions or requirements and we will
get back to you.
WEATHER STATIONS: Windspeed &
direction, inside temperature, outside
temperature & windchill. Records highs
& lows with time and date as they occur.
$420.00 complete plus sales tax if appli
cable. Optional rainfall and PC interface.
Used by Government Departments,
farmers, pilots, and weather enthusiasts.
Other models with barometric pressure,
humidity, dew point, solar radiation, UV,
leaf wetness, etc. Just phone, fax or
write for our FREE catalogue and price
list. Solar Flair/Ecowatch ph: (03) 5968
4863 fax: (03) 5968 5810, PO Box 18,
Emerald, Vic., 3782. ACN 006 399 480.
Card No.
KITS KITS AND MORE KITS! Check
‘em out at www.ozitronics.com
Signature ________________________ Card expiry date______/______
ACT REGION (CANBERRA) ELECTRONIC SERVICE & REPAIR BUSINESS offered for the first time $50K
plus in annual gov’t service contracts,
unlimited scope for expansion, currently
run 2-3 days per week. Owner moving
into other business interests. Enquiries
at first to accountant. Ph 0418 603236.
Name _____________________________________________________
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94 Silicon Chip
SOLAR PANELS: 120 watt $995.00,
80 watt $650.00, 60 watt $510.00, 40
watt $395.00 (all with 25 year guarantee). UNBREAKABLE PANELS:
64 watt $550.00, 42 watt $420.00,
32 watt $340.00, 11 watt $190.00, 5
watt $120.00, 1.25 watt $80.00. WIND
GENERATORS: 400 watt $950.00.
INVERTERS: sinewave inverters, inverter/chargers, mod. Sinewave inverters,
call with requirements. AUSTRALIA
WIDE DELIVERY (Free on orders over
$500.00). TASMAN ENERGY: (03)
6362 3050 Fax (03) 6362 3054.
DON’T MISS Australia’s biggest and
best exhibition and sale of new and
used radio and communication equipment at the Central Coast Field Day,
Sunday 27th Feb, Wyong Race Course,
just 1 hour north from Sydney. Starts
8.30am. Special Field Day bargains
from traders and tons of disposals gear
in the flea market. Exhibits by clubs
and groups with interests ranging from
vintage radio, packet radio, scanning,
amateur TV and satellite comms. www.
ccarc.org.au Ph (02) 4340 2500.
Need prototype PC boards?
We have the solutions – we print electronics!
Four-day turnaround, less if urgent; Artwork from your own
positive or file; Through hole plating; Prompt postal service; 29
years technical experience; Inexpensive; Superb quality.
Printed Electronics, 12A Aristoc Rd,
Glen Waverley, Vic 3150.
Positions At Jaycar
We are often looking for enthusiastic staff
for positions in our retail stores and head
office at Rhodes in Sydney. A genuine
interest in electronics is a necessity. Phone
02 9743 5222 for current vacancies.
Phone: (03) 9545 3722; Fax: (03) 9545 3561
Call Mike Lynch and check us out!
We are the best for low cost, small runs.
Satellite TV Reception
International satellite TV reception in
your home is now
affordable. Send for
your free info pack
containing equipment
catalog, satellite lists, etc or call for
appointment to view. We can display
all satellites from 76.5F to 180F.
Silvertone’s RC Receiver
Still the best little performer available!
AV-COMM P/L, 198 Condamine St,
Balgowlah, NSW 2093.
Tel: 02 9949 7417 or 9948 2667.
Fax: 9949 7095; www.avcomm.com.au
KITS-R-US
PO Box 314 Blackwood S.A.
Ph/fax 08 8270 3175
FMTX2A Universal Stereo Coder $49
FMTX2B 30mW Xtal Locked 100MHz Transmitter $49
FMTX1 1-3 Watt Free Running Transmitter $49
FMX1 200mW Full Broadcast Transmitter, built & tested $499
FM220 10-18 Watt FM BGY133 Philips Linear $499
FM1525 25 Watt Discrete Linear FM Band $499
FM2100 110 Watt Discrete Linear FM Band $699
FM3000 300 Watt Discrete Linear FM Band $1499
Philips 828E/A VHF Receiver Boards (6 metres) $9
AWA 721 VHF Receiver Boards (2 metres) $9
AWA 721 VHF transmitter boards 1 watt (2 metres) $19
Philips 323 UHF transmitter boards 500mW (70cm) $19
AEM 35 Watt Little Brick Audio Power Amp $15
Digi-125 200W RMS Audio Power Amp $39
CA Clipper Compiler, new in box $49
6dBd Gain Colinear FM Band Antenna $999
Roll Smart-1 FM Station Audio Processor $999
Free catalog on disk of discounted surplus components
Same day shipping, credit cards OK, circuits supplied.
SPECIAL STEAM
BOAT KITS $14
FREE PC VIDEO RECORDER - TIME
LAPSE - MOTION DETECTION Software with 4 Ch Capture Card from
$113 * DIY PCBs: Video Memory from
$94 * QUAD 4 Pix 1 Screen from $142
* Video Transmitter Kitsets & Complete Systems from $142 * IR Remote
Control Extender Set $79 * concealed
PINHOLE Mono or DSP COLOUR
Camera, Microphone & Timer/Controller in PIR DETECTOR from $139
* BULLET 480 Line 0.05 lux SONY
CCD or DSP COLOUR from $132 * HIRES better than SUPER-VHS Quality
QUADS 4 Pix 1 screen from $208 *
PCB Modules from $76 COLOUR Pinhole from $155 * MINI CAMERAS 36 x
36 from $85 - SONY CCD $102 - COLOUR $162 * DOME CAMERAS from
$88 - SONY CCD $107 - COLOUR $164
* Video BALUNS from $7 * DIY PAKS
4 Cameras, Switcher & Supply from
$461 with 12" Monitor from $575 * 4
COLOUR CAMERAS, SWITCHER &
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COLOUR DUPLEX MUX from $1329 *
14" MONITORS from $203 - with Inbuilt
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from $19 * www.allthings.com.au * T
08 9349 9413.
DESIGN SOFTWARE: Loudspeaker enclosures and equalisers. http://
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Email: alphaelectronics<at>bigpond.com
C COMPILERS: everything you need
to develop C and ASM software for
68HC08, 6809, 68HC11, 68HC12, 68
HC16, 8051/52, 8080/85, 8086, 8096
or AVR: $155.00 each. Macro Cross
Assemblers and Disassemblers for
above CPUs + 6800/01/03/05, 6502
and 68HC12 for $78. Debug monitors:
$78 for 6 CPUs. All compilers, XASMs
and monitors: $480. 8051/52 Simulator
(fast, now incl. 80C320): $78. Try the
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build a “C-Stamp”. Demo desk: FREE.
All prices + $5 p&p.
Atmel Flash CPU Programmer: Handles the 89Cx051, 89C5x and 89Sxx
series, and the new AVRs in both DIP
and PLCC44. Also does most 8-pin
EEPROMs. Includes socket for serial
ISP cable. $199, $37 tax, $10 p&p.
Still only $129.50 AM or $149.50 FM.
May be used with most ppm transmitters. This and many other radio control
products available from:
Silvertone Electronics, PO Box 580,
Riverwood 2210.
Phone/Fax (02) 9533 3517.
www.silvertone.com.au
SOIC adaptors: 20-pin $90, 14-pin
$85, 8-pin $80. Credit cards accepted.
GRANTRONICS PTY LTD, PO Box 275,
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Fax (02) 9631 1236; or Internet:
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RCS Radio is MOVING. For information, ring 0408-613-300.
DUAL VARIAC 2 AMP 0-260V near new
condition $120. 02 9948 5034.
KIT ASSEMBLY
ANY KITS assembled/repaired: professional, speedy service. Phone Neville
Walker (07) 3857 2752.
WANTED
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transformer, at 240V input. Quote price
& postage charge. Please phone (02)
6452 6396 evenings.
FEBRUARY 2000 95
14 Model Railway Projects
Advertising Index
Acetronics....................................81
Av-Comm Pty Ltd.........................95
Shop soiled but
HALF PRICE!
Clarke & Severn Electronics........80
Computronics Corp......................80
Dick Smith Electronics........... 34-37
Dontronics...................................80
EMC Technologies.......................81
Emona Instruments...................IFC
Our stocks of this book are now limited.
All we have left are newsagents’ returns
which means that they may be slightly
shop soiled or have minor cover blemishes. Otherwise, they're undamaged and in
good condition.
Harbuch Electronics....................73
SPECIAL CLEARANCE PRICE:
$3.95 + $3 P&P (Aust. & NZ)
Kits-R-Us.....................................95
Instant PCBs................................95
Jamo Australia Pty Ltd.............OBC
Jaycar .............................. 45-52,95
Kalex............................................33
Microgram Computers...................3
MicroZed Computers...................80
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HELP SAVE THE NIGHT SKY!
We are losing our heritage of starry night skies. Poor, inefficient
outdoor lighting is causing glare and “light pollution”. This wastes
energy and increases greenhouse gas emissions.
You can help by joining SYDNEY OUTDOOR LIGHTING IMPROVEMENT SOCIETY (SOLIS). SOLIS aims to educate and inform about
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Individual membership is $20 pa. Donations are also welcome. Cheques payable
to “SOLIS c/- NSAS”, PO Box 214, West Ryde 2114.
Email: tpeters<at>pip.elm.mq.edu.au
96 Silicon Chip
Truscott’s Electronic World...........33
Vass Electronics..........................80
_____________________________
PC Boards
Printed circuit boards for SILICON
CHIP projects are made by:
• RCS Radio Pty Ltd, 651 Forest
Rd, Bexley, NSW 2207. Phone (02)
9587 3491.
• Marday Services, PO Box 19-189,
Avondale, Auckland, NZ. Phone (09)
828 5730.
DON’T
UTER
COMP
MISS OMNIBUS
THE
’BUS!
www.siliconchip.com.au
SILICON
CHIP’S
132 Pages
$ 95 *
9
ISBN 0 95852291 X
9780958522910 09
9
780958
522910
IN
LINCLUDES
FEA U
TUR X
E
A collection of computer features from the pages of SILICON
CHIP magazine
Hints o Tips o Upgrades o Fixes
Covers DOS, Windows 3.1, 95, 98, NT
o
RT
Do you feel a little “left behind” by the latest advances and developments
in computer hardware and software? Don’t miss the bus: get the ’bus!
THIS IS IT: The computer reference you’ve been asking for!
SILICON CHIP's Computer Omnibus is a valuable compendium of the most-requested
computer hardware and software features from recent issues of SILICON CHIP magazine
- all in one handy volume. Here's just a sample of the contents:
Troubleshooting your PC: what to do when things go wrong
NO
Choosing, installing and taming computer networks
AVA W
Upgrading and overclocking CPUs
DIRE ILABLE
C
Hard disk drive upgrades, tune-ups and tips
SILIC T FROM
Windows 3.1, 95, 98 and NT tips and tricks
ON
just $ CHIP
The Y2K Bug - and how to swat it
125O*
INC
All about Linux
GST
& P&
P
And much more!!!
ORDER NOW: Use the handy order form in this issue or call
(02) 9979 5644, 9-5 Mon-Fri with your credit card details.
* Price includes GST
09
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