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The Future: High Voltage Car Electrical Systems
SILICON
CHIP
JULY 2000
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Contents
Vol.13, No.7; July 2000
FEATURES
4 Say Bye-Bye To Your 12V Car Battery
The days of 12V car electrical systems are numbered. Radical changes are
just around the corner – by Julian Edgar
72 Review: Motech MT-4080A LCR Meter
Versatile instrument can also check a raft of parameters, including Quality
factor, phase angle, dissipation factor and ESR – by Leo Simpson
80 Review: ADEM Compac II Security System
Is there an intruder on your premises? This clever system lets you know then
lets you listen in – by Ross Tester
Home Satellite TV System For
Less Than $50 – Page 10.
PROJECTS TO BUILD
10 A Home Satellite TV System For Less Than 50 Bucks
Tune into TV signals on the Optus B1 satellite with this surplus gear. $50
buys you all the bits – by Ross Tester & Garry Cratt
18 A Moving Message Display
It’s easy to build, easy to program, easy on the pocket and easy on the
eye – by Atilla Aknar & Ross Tester
30 Compact Fluorescent Lamp Driver
Moving Message Display – Page 18.
Operates from a 12V DC supply and can drive up to four 9W CFLs at full
brightness. Use it as part of a solar power installation or anywhere you
require good lighting without mains power – by John Clarke
42 El-Cheapo Musicians’ Lead Tester
Checking leads is a snap with this handy tester – by John Clarke
60 Li’l PowerHouse Switchmode Power Supply; Pt.2
Second article has all the construction details. And we’ve improved the
output filtering for even better performance – by Peter Smith & Leo Simpson
SPECIAL COLUMNS
54 Serviceman’s Log
Big is not always beautiful – by the TV Serviceman
Compact Fluorescent Lamp Driver
– Page 30.
82 Vintage Radio
The AWA P1 portable 11-inch B/W TV set – by Rodney Champness
DEPARTMENTS
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Mailbag
Circuit Notebook
Product Showcase
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Ask Silicon Chip
Notes & Errata
Electronics Showcase
Market Centre
Advertising Index
Musicians’
Lead Tester
– Page 42
JULY 2000 1
PUBLISHER’S LETTER
www.siliconchip.com.au
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2 Silicon Chip
42V electrical systems
in cars
Most people would agree that there have
been radical changes in the design of automobiles in the last 15 years or so. Not only
do computer chips now control the entire
operation of car engines these days, they also
control the automatic transmission, brakes
(ABS), the air-bags, cruise control, traction
control, air-conditioning (climate control)
and even suspension.
But as radical as those changes are, they
are just for openers. We’re going to see a lot
more changes in the next few years as designers work out how to make cars perform a lot
better while using less fuel and providing more safety. A fundamental part
of this next raft of changes will be the electrical system itself.
The old faithful 12V system will be superseded by 42V systems, based
on a 36V battery but acknowledging the fact that the actual DC voltage will
be maintained at around 42V. This is equivalent to 14V from an existing
12V battery system. The proposed 42V system is described this month in
an article starting on page 4.
The main reason for going to the higher voltage is that the electrical load
in cars is getting higher all the time. Increasing the voltage by a factor of
three reduces the current by the same factor and this greatly reduces voltage
losses as well as enabling the wiring harness to be reduced in weight.
However, some of the changes envisaged for cars involve such things
as electric power steering, electric blower super-charging and even solenoid-operated valve trains. These really do involve quite high peak
powers but they are better done electrically rather than driven by the
engine. They would not be really feasible at 12V but they become a whole
lot easier at 42V.
The most exciting concept has to be computer-controlled valve trains.
These could bring about quite startling increases to engine power and responsiveness, as well as completely eliminating all the drawbacks of existing
camshaft and valve lifter systems. In fact, this would make existing variable
valve timing schemes such as Honda’s VTEC and Toyota’s VVT seem crude
in the extreme. Instead of bringing a more aggressive cam profile above a
certain engine speed like these mechanical systems, a computer-controlled
valve train could apply infinitely variable valve timing, from cylinder to
cylinder if necessary.
So if you suddenly wanted heaps of power, not only would the fuel charge
increase but the inlet valves could be wide open to accept that charge, instantaneously. Possibly the system might end up being so effective that it
would make super-charging or turbo-charging obsolete. You could have car
engines that were completely docile and very economical most of the time,
only to change to fire-breathing monsters in the blink of an eye.
Now maybe we could have roads where we could use all this extra performance. Energy crisis? What energy crisis?
Leo Simpson
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The days of
12 volt systems
and conventional
air-cooled
alternators for
cars are numbered
– radical changes
are just around
the corner!
By Julian Edgar
D
uring the last 15 years or so
there has been a major change
in the electronic architecture
of cars.
The introduction of engine management, anti-lock brakes, traction
control, climate control, automatic
stability control and similar systems
has meant that some cars have as
many as 10 electronic control units.
These frequently communicate with
one another via Controller Area Network or CAN buses and all have full
self-diagnostic ability.
But while all of these electronic
changes have been occurring, the
power generation and distribution
system of cars has remained static.
An air-cooled alternator charging a
single 12V battery, with a running-car
voltage of about 14V distributed by
copper cables, has been the system
employed in all cars.
However, even this has now started
to change – water-cooled alternators
are being fitted to some vehicles,
combined starter/alternators are being developed and a standardised 42V
electrical system is imminent.
New Electrical Loads
The electrical loads of modern cars
have increased dramatically over the
4 Silicon Chip
last 10 or 15 years. Luxury cars – especially – are voracious consumers of
electrical power.
Fig.1 shows the maximum electrical loads of the current model BMW
750iL, which can reach a staggering
428 amps (5.9kW)! So what on earth
draws so much electrical power?
In this car over half of the maximum
power load is from the short-term
electrical heating of the catalytic
converters. Because this single load
is so great, it’s worth looking at in a
little detail.
Catalytic converters function most
efficiently at cleaning the exhaust
when they reach a temperature of
about 600°C. This heating is normally
provided by the passage of the hot
exhaust gases through them.
However, in cold start conditions,
it takes some time for the catalytic
Power Consumers
Maximum Consumption
(Amps)
Electric catalytic converter heating element (30 seconds)............................ 240
Engine.............................................................................................................. 23
Suspension......................................................................................................... 4
Body.................................................................................................................. 3
Secondary air pump......................................................................................... 30
Low beam light................................................................................................ 13
High beam light................................................................................................. 9
Fog light............................................................................................................. 9
Brake light......................................................................................................... 4
Reading light...................................................................................................... 1
Fan blower...................................................................................................... 29
Rear compartment fan blower........................................................................ 16
Airconditioning ................................................................................................. 3
Audio systems and telephone.......................................................................... 10
Wiper stage II.................................................................................................... 9
Auxiliary fan..................................................................................................... 25
Total Maximum Consumption.................................................................. 428
Fig. 1: the maximum current consumption of the BMW 750iL is a staggering 428
amps! The short-term load placed by the two catalytic converter heating elements makes up much of this. [BMW]
Luxury cars like this BMW 7-series have huge electrical power loads. This requires the use of a water-cooled
alternator and twin batteries. [BMW]
battery services other loads.
Two redundant temperature sensors
monitor the temperature of the starter
battery; if it falls below 0°C, the electric
cat converters are not heated. (Incidentally, US authorities require the use of
the two temperature sensors to reduce
the possibility of malfunction.)
ENGINE CONTROL UNIT
ELECTRIC CATALYTIC
CONVERTER CONTROL UNIT
ELEC.CATALYTIC CONV. PROG
TIME CONTROL
POWER OUTPUT SWITCH
TEMPERATURE CONTROL
SECONDARY AIR PROGRAM
CAN
CAN
RECORD. OF MEAS. VALUE
DIAGNOSIS
DIAGNOSIS
SECONDARY AIR
SECONDARY
AIR PUMP VALVE
SECONDARY
AIR VALVE
* BATTERY
TEMPERATURE
SENSORS
*
*
BATTERY
ISOLATOR
SWITCH
STARTER
BATTERY
ELECTRIC
CATALYTIC
CONVERTER 2
Fig.2: a schematic
diagram of the BMW
catalytic converter
electric heating
system. [BMW]
h
0A
11
STARTER
MOTOR
ELECTRIC
CATALYTIC
CONVERTER 1
LIQUID
COOLED
ALTERNATOR
VEHICLE
CIRCUIT LOAD
converter to reach operating temperature – in the meantime, emissions are high.
Manufacturers strive to reduce
cat converter warm-up time by
placing the converter close to the
engine and by using exhaust pipes
prior to the cat converter that have
little thermal mass, eg, double skin
pipes. However, under high engine
loads, these approaches can result
in cat converter overheating, with
the resultant destruction of the
ceramic matrix within the converter.
Electric heating of the cat converter results in reduced cold-start
emissions, while still allowing it to
be placed sufficiently far from the
engine to ensure durability.
In the BMW 750iL, two catalytic
converters are used, both electrically heated for a maximum of 30
seconds. The heating starts once
the engine speed exceeds 400 RPM
(ie, as soon as the engine is started).
A dedicated electric cat converter
control unit is used, linked to the
engine control unit via a CAN bus.
The vehicle uses a two-battery
electrical system – a 110Ah battery
is used to start the vehicle and
provide cat converter heating current, while a second smaller (55Ah)
VEHICLE
CIRCUIT
BATTERY
Ah
55
JULY 2000 5
A current car
has a wiring
loom that in
some cases
stretches for
2000 metres.
Using a higher
system
operating
voltage could
reduce the
mass of the
loom significantly.
[DaimlerChrysler]
The electric cat converter control
system has full self-diagnostic ability,
with up to 14 error messages able to
be recalled. Fig.2 shows a schematic
diagram of the BMW system.
While cat converter heating is one
of the greatest of the new electrical
loads, automotive technology being
developed also involves substantially
increased electrical demands. These
include:
• electromagnetic solenoid operation of the valvetrain;
• electrically assisted power steering
in large vehicles;
• brake-by-wire;
• ride control systems.
In fact, US automotive supplier
Delphi predicts that within 20 years,
the electrical power consumption of
a typical car will have reached 10kW
without any form of electrical propulsion being employed and more than
double this if the electrical power is
used to aid vehicle motive power.
Given that 10kW represents a
current flow of 725A at 13.8V, it is
not surprising that moves are afoot
to raise the standard voltage of car
electrical systems!
42V Systems
About 40 years ago automotive
electrical systems moved from a 6V
standard to 12V.
Now a change to 42V systems is
being proposed.
While called a 42V system, this uses
a 36V battery and 42V alternator output, much like the current system uses
a 12V battery but a 14V rail (actually
13.8V) and alternator output.
6 Silicon Chip
Two multi-company committees
are working on the new standard. At
the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, the Consortium on Advanced
Automotive Electrical/Electronic Components and Systems includes General
Motors, Ford, Daimler-Chrysler, BMW,
PSA-Peugeot/Citroen, Renault, Volvo
and automotive electronics suppliers
Delphi, Bosch and Siemens.
In Europe, Sican – an organisation
in Hanover, Germany – is working with
major German carmakers and component suppliers to formulate the new
42V standard. The commitment to the
new standard is high. For example,
the French automotive component
company Valeo has eight of its nine
component divisions working on
products using 42V technology.
The commercial risks to a car manufacturer of embracing 42V technology
and at the same time undertaking a
major redesign of all the electronics
in the car means that, initially, dual
12V/42V systems are likely to be introduced first.
As Delphi state, “The increase in
voltage means rethinking and possibly redesigning everything from light
bulbs to major components”. Says
Daimler-Chrysler: “We have decided
to retain a 12V supply so that components in standard use today can
remain operable.”
The major benefit of the higher voltage is in the reduced current flows that
are then possible for the same power
consumption. Wiring bundles could
be as much as 20% smaller, in turn
reducing cable mass and so benefiting
fuel consumption and emissions.
One need only attempt to pick up
the wiring loom of a modern car (which
can stretch to a combined length of
2000 metres) to realise that the mass
of copper used is considerable.
DaimlerChrysler again: “We see the
development of a 42V net not only
as a technological necessity, but as a
contribution to lessening the environmental burden.”
A number of approaches to the
introduction of 12V/42V architecture
are proposed:
• Single voltage generation and
single voltage energy storage –
a 42V alternator charges a 36V
battery which services 36V loads,
with a DC/DC converter to charge a
12V battery that services 12V loads;
• Single voltage generation and
dual voltage energy storage –
a 42V alternator charges the 36V
side of a dual 12V/36V battery, with
a DC/DC converter to charge the 12V
portion of the battery;
• Dual voltage generation and
single voltage energy storage –
where a dual 14V/42V alternator
charges two separate systems, one
12V and the other 36V;
• Dual voltage generation and
dual voltage energy storage –
where a dual 14V/42V alternator
charges a dual 12V/36V battery.
Each of these approaches is shown
in Fig.3. The current and future technologies which would benefit from the
introduction of a 42V architecture are
shown in Figs.4 & 5.
New Alternator Designs
The very high electrical power demand of modern cars is also resulting
in the development of more efficient
alternator designs.
One approach is to water-cool the
alternator, circulating engine coolant
through passages cast in the alternator housing. In some cases, the alternator may be entirely surrounded by
a water jacket.
A liquid-cooled alternator design
was first introduced (in very small
numbers) in passenger cars in 1995.
That design used two conventional Lundell-type alternators axially
mounted on the one shaft and developed 14V/220A with low noise levels.
Subsequently, BMW has introduced
(on cars such as the 750iL cited above)
a water-cooled alternator that uses a
single Lundell brushless design developing 14V/150A.
The BMW alternator uses liquid
cooling for two major reasons: to
reduce the alternator noise associated with normal fan-cooling by
up to 3dB and to increase electrical
performance. Other advantages of the
design include:
• rapid engine warm-up due to the
utilisation of alternator waste heat;
• packaging advantages due to the
absence of an alternator aircooling
duct;
• a longer alternator life;
• good fording ability for the car.
DC-DC CONVERTER
However, I am sure that the last
advantage is of theoretical nature
only – how many owners would drive a
$272,000 BMW 750iL through a river!?
When high temperatures are present
in the engine bay, air-cooled alternators experience elevated temperatures
through heat-soak.
As a result, air-cooled alternators
are normally significantly de-rated in
capacity in order that their temperature rise is not excessive when there
are combined high electrical loads and
high heat-soak thermal loads.
A water–cooled alternator is comparatively insulated from engine bay
heat variations and so temperature
increases from heat soak do not need
to be taken into design consideration.
This results in more power being obtainable from the same sized package.
The durability of a water-cooled alternator is improved by the reduction
in the degree of thermal cycling that
the alternator undergoes.
Air-cooled alternators experience
a rapid increase in temperature immediately following start-up. As the
alternator speed then increases, the
forced-air cooling system becomes
more effective and so the temperature
decreases.
With water cooling, marked temperature peaks no longer occur, especially
in the 2500 – 4000 RPM alternator
speed ranges most often used.
The possibility of using short-term
boosting of the alternator output
DC-DC CONVERTER
14V
14V
12V BATTERY
12V
LOADS
42V
12V/36V BATTERY
12V
LOADS
42V
ALTERNATOR
ALTERNATOR
STARTING
MOTOR
36V BATTERY
STARTING
MOTOR
36V
LOADS
Single-voltage generation and single-voltage energy storage
Single-voltage generation and dual-voltage energy storage
12V
LOADS
12V BATTERY
14V
12V/36V BATTERY
14V
ALTERNATOR
42V
36V
LOADS
12V
LOADS
ALTERNATOR
42V
36V BATTERY
STARTING
MOTOR
36V
LOADS
Dual-voltage generation and single-voltage energy storage
STARTING
MOTOR
36V
LOADS
Dual-voltage generation and dual-voltage energy storage
Fig. 3: the different approaches that could be taken to adopting 14/42 volt architecture in automotive
applications. [Delphi]
JULY 2000 7
Current Technology
Benefits of 42V Architecture
Electric power steering
More power, improved fuel economy
Electric brakes
Redundant power supplies
Power windows, power seats,
Reduced size and mass of motors; more efficient operation
power hatchback lifts
Heated catalytic converter
Lower emissions; quicker light-off time
Heating, ventilation, airconditioning
Greater efficiency; smaller/lighter units; flexible packaging
blower motors and cooling fans
Mobile multimedia
More power available for video, phones, navigation systems, audio amps, fax machines
Water pumps
Improved efficiency; longer service life
Selected engine management system
Reduced size and mass; increased performance
components (eg exhaust gas recirculation
valves, ignition systems, control actuators)
Fuel pumps
Reduced size and mass
Heated seats
Faster heating, more efficient operation; increased power
Fig.4: the benefits to current automotive electrical technology of adopting a 42V system. [Delphi]
Future Technology
Ride control systems
Brake by wire
Steer by wire
Electromagnetic valve control
Integrated starter/generator
Benefits of 42V Architecture
Improve ride, handling and vehicle stability
Improved vehicle packaging and vehicle performance
Enhanced performance; improved packaging; improved passive and active safety
Lower emissions; optimal power; individual cylinder control; lower cost
Faster starts; quicker charging; design flexibility; low noise & vibration; improved fuel economy
Fig.5: the benefits to proposed automotive technology able to be realised with a 42V system. [Delphi]
reveals another potential advantage
of water-cooling. The output of an alternator can be increased by a number
of means:
• feeding the excitation circuit with
an increased voltage supplied by a
DC/DC converter;
• using a higher amount of excitation
by employing an excitation winding
layout with lower resistance;
• operating the alternator in self-excitation at higher terminal voltage.
Since these methods are all limited
by heat build-up considerations, the
greater thermal mass of a water-cooled
alternator has inherent advantages
when any of these approaches is taken.
8 Silicon Chip
Each of these short-term boost techniques is being actively considered for
automotive use.
Lundell alternators are also being
supplemented by water-cooled hybrid
permanent magnet/Lundell designs.
Delphi produces one such design,
capable of developing 13.5V/150A at
6000 RPM alternator speed. The alternator requires a minimum of two litres/
minute coolant flow at a maximum
temperature of 130°C. Fig.6 shows a
drawing of the Delphi design, with the
coolant connection pipes prominent.
Probably the most dramatic development in alternator technology, however, is the Integrated Starter Alternator
Damper (ISAD) being developed by German company
Continental ISAD Electronic
Systems GmbH & Co.
The ISAD combines the
function of a starter motor
and alternator into one assembly, located between the
engine and gearbox.
Fig.6: a drawing of a Delphi
13.5V/150A water-cooled
hybrid permanent magnet/
Lundell alternator. Note the
water pipe connections.
[Delphi]
ISAD is able to generate output voltages of 12, 24, or – significantly – 42V.
The device eliminates:
• the conventional starter motor and
solenoid;
the
flywheel;
•
the
conventional alternator;
•
the
alternator pulley and belt drive
•
system;
• and in some cases, the
harmonic balancer.
Both BMW and Citroen have shown
vehicle prototypes using 42V ISAD
systems.
In a car equipped with a 42V ISAD
system, each normally belt-driven device could be replaced with an electric
motor.
In some cases this would have significant advantages – the aircon-ditioning
compressor could be located close to
the cabin instead of at the front of the
engine, for example.
Conclusion
Cars featuring water-cooled alternators or combined starter/alternators,
42V wiring and much higher electrical
loads are likely to be appear in the
next few years.
No longer will “12V” be synonymous with cars…
SC
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au
Believe it or not . . .
A $49
Satellite TV
System
Have you ever looked at those satellite dishes which have sprung
up on pubs, clubs and even private homes and thought “Gee, I
wonder what they’re watching?” Have you ever wished that
you too could get into satellite TV reception – but have
been scared off by the $$$$$? Wish no longer!
By Ross Tester and Garry Cratt*
10 Silicon Chip
H
ere is a full satellite TV system which you can set up in
your own backyard for a tad
under fifty dollars.
No, not five thousand and fifty
dollars, not even five hundred and
fifty dollars. Just fifty measly dollars.
For that, you get a satellite dish,
the mounting hardware, a LNB (low
noise block converter) and an analog
satellite receiver which you can plug
directly into most TV sets (or video
recorders). And yes, the price even
includes the Generally Silly Tax.
Point the dish in the right direction
(we’ll tell you how later), tune the
receiver (we’ll tell you how later) and
start watching satellite feeds.
If you’re into amateur television
(or would like to be), this would be a
great system to get you going.
How is this possible?
One of the consequences of rapidly changing technology is the huge
amount of equipment made obsolete
in just a few years. Thousands of
still-operating ’386 and ’486 computers have no doubt gone to the junkyard
or dump, replaced by the latest higher
speed processor models.
Most of us regard this as a terrible
waste of manpower and money. But
that’s “progress” (or is it marketing?)
for you.
Satellite TV has enjoyed as similarly short a lifespan as the personal
computer and the amount of obsolete
equipment destined as landfill is rap-
Here’s what you get in the hardware department: the 90cm dish, the mounting
plate, three mounting struts, the main mounting bracket (right) plus the LNB and
its mounting bracket (bottom). Below is the Scientific Atlanta 9600 series
receiver plus the 125VA enclosed 240/110 transformer. Not bad for $49.95, eh?
idly increasing.
It was a case of being “in the right
place at the right time”. Garry Cratt,
from the satellite reception specialists
Av-Comm Pty Ltd, found a huge quantity of surplus satellite TV equipment
sitting in one of his supplier’s warehouses, just a day or so away from
being picked up by a metal recycler.
The systems were obviously used
(in some cases very used) but had all
been nevertheless working perfectly
when replaced a few months previously.
Instead of the local dump or metal
recycler’s, the whole lot – pallets
and pallets of it – found their way to
Av-Comm’s warehouse instead. And
the price was what the metal recycler
had offered!
JULY 2000 11
These two shots show how the mounting bracket bolts to the mounting plate which in turn bolts onto the rear of the dish.
The whole assembly is designed to slip over a 2-inch water pipe. Rotating the dish on the pipe allows you to set the
azimuth, or direction, while adjusting the threaded rod on the right of the bracket (with the black cover on the end) lets
you set the elevation, or distance above the horizon. Being an “offset” dish, it is more vertical than a “prime focus” dish.
When the truckloads of equipment
arrived, Garry took a closer look at his
bargain purchase. The dishes were all
in quite good nick, even if somewhat
“shop soiled” (Garry used a slightly
different expression but decorum
prevents us quoting him verbatim).
They were 90cm offset dishes, the
type recommended by most K-band
broadcasters because of their good
sidelobe performance and no aperture
blockage.
Because an offset dish is actually
only a section of a larger “prime focus” antenna, the offset angle means
that the actual angle of the reflector
FOCAL POINT
FOCAL POINT
OFFSET DISH
PRIME FOCUS DISH
Fig.1: the difference between a “prime focus”
dish and an “offset” dish. In reality, an
offset dish is a portion of a prime focus
dish, having the same focal point as if it
were the prime focus dish. This can best
be illustrated by the diagram at right
where the offset dish above is superimposed over the prime focus dish. As an
offset dish is it mounts more vertically in
higher latitudes, there is less pooling of
water or build-up of snow and ice. They also
have good side-lobe performance and, because
the feedhorn doesn’t “get in the way” of
incoming signals, no “aperture blockage”.
12 Silicon Chip
FOCAL POINT
with respect to the horizontal plane
is much higher than that of a prime
focus dish, ensuring that rain, ice and
snow cannot pool on the dish surface.
In simple words, the dishes are much
more vertical.
The “offset” part also means that
the LNB is not mounted at the apparent focus of the parabola of the dish
but is offset.
Despite the age of the dishes and
LNBs (probably a decade or so old),
he was surprised to find they were
capable of providing a result at least
comparable with a brand new dish
and LNBF combination, when used
on the new Optus B3 satellite Aurora
digital system (used to deliver ABC
and SBS across Australia).
Of course the system performance
margin is less due to the higher noise
figure of the LNB, typically 1.1dB.
The satellite receivers are of similar
vintage to the dishes and LNBs and, as
such, are also a little soiled. But a few
minutes with a rag and some metho
does absolute wonders – we’re sure
you could do the same too.
The receivers, by the way, are Scientific Atlanta Model 9600 series, a
brand very highly respected in the
satellite TV world as offering superb
quality. Designed to fit in a 19-inch
rack, they’re also quite happy in a
stand-alone mode.
There are a couple of different
models within the series but we’re not
The feedhorn and its attached LNB
first mounts in its own bracket (shown
below) which allows it to rotate, thus
setting polarisation. As shown (label
up), the polarity is vertical.
The feedhorn bracket is bolted to the three mounting struts which in turn bolt
onto the dish. This shot also shows the RG-6/U cable connected and secured to
the bottom strut with cable ties. Note the “drip loop” in the cable.
high-performing receiver especially
considering its age – and even more
so considering the price.
What’s it perform like?
going to expand on the differences.
What you get for your $49.95 is what
you get!
With 20-channel memory and a
wide rage of user functions accessible
from the front panel, they’re quite
simple to use (unfortunately, there are
no instruction manuals but the labelling is pretty much self-explanatory).
On the rear panel are inputs from
the LNB, vertical and horizontal
inputs, IF out/IF in sockets (usually
connected), video output and composite baseband outputs plus a range
of connectors for audio output (stereo
if available), remote control, presets
for audio level, switches to invert
and/or clamp video and so on. We
won’t bother with many of these but
they are there for you if you want to
experiment.
Most of the receivers operate on
110V AC but even here you’re not on
your own. Included in the price is
a 240/110V 125VA Ferguson transformer, housed in its own steel case,
complete with 3-pin socket and mains
lead. The replacement cost of this
transformer on its own is about $90…
but it’s included in the $49 deal.
All in all it’s a very comprehensive,
We’re not pretending that it has the
performance of a modern system utilising a digital receiver and smartcard
arrangement – but such a system costs
just a little more than this system –
well over $1500 in fact. This system
is much cheaper yet is capable of providing more-than-watchable results.
For under $50, it’s great value even
for experimenters. Garry tells us that
many have already been sold to amateur operators for ATV experiments
– without any publicity at all. Word
of a bargain soon gets around!
This is an analog system – which
is one of the reasons for its withdrawal from use. It is not capable of
tuning digital signals but there are
still plenty of analog signals to play
with – for example, all of the network
“interchange” signals currently being
transmitted on the Optus B1 satellite.
Using a small dish (90cm is considered small!) doesn’t give you the
picture quality of a larger dish (say
1.8 or 2.5m) but the pictures are still
perfectly watchable. The bigger the
dish (within reason), the better the
results.
Also, modern LNBs have a lower
noise figure than the LNB used in
this system – replacing the LNB with
a unit of more recent vintage would
also improve the reception. Again,
though – don’t look at the quality.
Look at the price!
By the way, the format of the re-
ceived signal doesn’t change in the
receiver: if you pick up a PAL signal
from the bird, you get a PAL signal out.
If it’s NTSC, you get NTSC out. Contrary to popular belief, you can watch
an NTSC picture on a PAL TV – it’s
just that glorious living Technicolor
becomes glorious boring black and
white. If you have a multi-standard
TV set... lucky you!
And before we get onto building
and erecting the dish, a word on legalities. It will pay you to get in touch
with your local council or building
authority to check on their rules. Our
local council, for example, allows a
single dish up to 1.5m in diameter,
ground or building mounted, to be
erected without a permit. Anything
larger, or more than one in your backyard, or mounted up high, requires a
development application.
Building the system
First of all, check that you have all
the bits. You should receive the 90cm
dish, a mounting plate, three LNB
mounting arms, the LNB itself, an LNB
mounting bracket and the dish assembly mounting bracket which probably
(but not definitely) has U-bolts still
attached. Of course, you also get one
of the Scientific Atlanta 9600 series
receivers (ours was a 9630) and the
Ferguson TS115/125B transformer, if
required (for 110V receivers).
You will also get many of the nuts
and bolts needed to put it together –
perhaps not all of them but for $49.95,
what’s a couple of bolts between
friends?
What you don’t get is any coax
JULY 2000 13
cable, mainly because every location
needs a different length of cable, nor
the “F” connectors which are essential
to connect the LNB to the receiver.
The first step is to give the whole
lot a clean. Dust off the cobwebs (no,
we’re not kidding!) and give the whole
thing a bit of TLC. You might like to
give any exposed or corroded parts a
spray with some WD40.
Even though the dish “reflector”
is one piece, there are a quiet a few
other bits of hardware involved, hence
the most logical assembly sequence is
outlined here.
Bolt the mounting plate to the
mounting bracket – when the recess
in the mounting plate points up, the
mounting bracket sits on top of this.
The holes in the mounting plate are
threaded so no nuts are needed
Bolt this assembly to the back of
the dish. There are four bolt holes in
the dish which correspond to the four
bolt holes in the plate. To ensure there
are no protrusions onto the reflector
surface (reducing the dish efficiency),
the bolts are countersunk.
Simply bolt the backing plate assembly to the back of the reflector
with the bolts going from front to back
(ie, through the dish then through the
mounting plate), ensuring the mounting pole entry point faces towards
the bottom of the dish. A feedstrut
mounting hole helps to identify the
bottom of the dish.
Make sure these are well and truly
tight – these bolts stop the dish vibrating in the wind which in turn helps
ensure picture stability.
Put the dish assembly aside for a
moment while you get the LNB assembly ready. Its bracket grips to the
throat of the horn with two nuts and
bolts (see photo opposite). Just finger-tighten the nuts for the moment.
There are three struts which hold
the LNB assembly in place – two the
same length and one shorter. The two
longer ones are horizontal struts while
the shorter one is the bottom strut.
Each strut has a square end and
a rounded end. The left-hand and
And here’s what it should look like when it’s all finished and ready to go. Compare this photo with the side-on shot on
page ??? and you should have no problems working out what goes where. (The knee bone’s connected to the thigh bone,
the thigh bone's connected...) The tropical-looking setting, by the way, is in the suburbs of Sydney!
14 Silicon Chip
Table 1: ANALOG CHANNEL LIST
K BAND (viewable with this [90cm] dish)
FREQ
USER
POLARITY VIDEO AUDIO
OPTUS B1 (160 degrees east)
12386 Network 7
Horizontal
EPAL 7.38/7.56
12451 Herbalife
Horizontal
PAL 6.60
12458 Network 10
Vertical
PAL 7.38/7.56
12480 Network 10
Vertical
EPAL 7.38/7.56
12488 Network 9
Horizontal
EPAL 7.38/7.56
12728 Network 9
Vertical
PAL 6.60
12739 Herbalife
Vertical
PAL 6.60
C BAND FREE TO AIR
IF FREQ
1086 MHz
1151 MHz
1158 MHz
1180 MHz
1188 MHz
1428 MHz
1439 MHz
(viewable with a larger [>2.2m] dish)
APSTAR 2R 76.5E
3750
VATSA (India)
Vertical
PAL 6.2/6.8
1400 MHz
THAICOM 3 78.5E
3507
Raj TV
3535
ATN
3649
Thaicom test
3649
VTV Vietnam
3685
MRTV
Vertical
Vertical
Horizontal
Horizontal
Horizontal
PAL 6.60
PAL 6.60
PAL 6.60
PAL 6.60
NTSC 6.60
1643 MHz
1615 MHz
1500 MHz
1500 MHz
1465 MHz
INSAT 2E 82E
3557
Vijay TV
3579
Jaya TV
3655
Asianet
3809
DD5 Tamil TV
3850
DD1 Metro
3930
DD2 National
4089
DD7 W Bengal
Vertical
Vertical
Vertical
Vertical
Vertical
Vertical
Vertical
PAL
PAL
PAL
PAL
PAL
PAL
PAL
1593 MHz
1548 MHz
1495 MHz
1341 MHz
1300 MHz
1220 MHz
1061 MHz
ASIASAT 2 100.5E
3885
Worldnet USA
3960
CCTV 4 China
3980
RTPi Portugal
Horizontal
Horizontal
Vertical
PAL 6.60
PAL 6.60
PAL 6.6/7.2
1265 MHz
1190 MHz
1170 MHz
GORIZONT 25 103E *** (Inclined orbit)
3675
RTR
RHCP
SECAM7.02
1475 MHz
ASIASAT 3 105.5E
3650
Marathi
3760
Now TV
3800
Star Sports
3840
Channel V
3900
Punjabi TV
3920
Phoenix
3940
Zee News
3960
Star World
3980
Zee TV
4100
PTV
4120
CCTV4
4140
Bangla TV
Vertical
Horizontal
Horizontal
Horizontal
Vertical
Horizontal
Vertical
Horizontal
Vertical
Vertical
Horizontal
Vertical
PAL 6.60
PAL 6.60
NTSC 5.9/6.2
NTSC 6.2
PAL 6.60
NTSC 6.20
PAL 6.80
NTSC 5.76
PAL 6.80
PAL 6.65
NTSC 6.20
PAL 6.60
1500 MHz
1390 MHz
1350 MHz
1310 MHz
1250 MHz
1230 MHz
1210 MHz
1190 MHz
1170 MHz
1050 MHz
1030 MHz
1010 MHz
PALAPA C2 113 E
4180
TPI Indonesia
4160
TV5 France
4140
TV Brunei
4140
SITV Singapore
4120
MTV Asia
4060
IVM Indonesia
4040
CNBC Asia
3980
CNN Int
3900
TV3 Malaysia
3880
ATVI Aust
3840
TVRI Indonesia
3840
TPI Indonesia
3745
RCTI Indonesia
Vertical
Horizontal
Vertical
Vertical
Horizontal
Vertical
Horizontal
Vertical
Vertical
Horizontal
Horizontal
Horizontal
Vertical
PAL
PAL
PAL
PAL
PAL
PAL
PAL
PAL
PAL
PAL
PAL
PAL
PAL
970 MHz
990 MHz
1010 MHz
1010 MHz
1030 MHz
1090 MHz
1110 MHz
1177 MHz
1250 MHz
1270 MHz
1310 MHz
1310 MHz
1405 MHz
6.60
6.60
6.60
5.50
5.50
5.50
5.50
6.60
6.60
6.80
6.80
6.80
6.60
6.60
6.80
6.80
6.80
6.80
6.2/6.8
6.60
right-hand struts have an “L” and “R” punched into the
rounded end. We’ll leave you to work out which of these
is the left and which is the right.
Fit the two horizontal struts first. In all cases the square
end goes to the reflector and the round end to the appropriate holes on the feedhorn bracket. Finally, bolt the bottom
strut to the dish (again, the square end). The top end of
this strut also connects to the feedhorn bracket but it goes
to a tapped mounting hole at the bottom of the bracket.
Some of the smaller nuts and bolts required may not
be supplied – you may find them in your junk box or in
worst case, spend a few cents at your local hardware store.
The assembly of the dish is basically complete but you
will obviously need some form of secure, rigid mounting
post or mast. Keep in mind the wind loading of a 90cm
dish not too far off vertical!
Ideally, you want a 2-inch (50mm) OD galvanised pipe,
about 3.5 – 4 metres long. The bottom end of this should
be either cemented into the ground (at least 500mm or so)
or securely bolted or clamped to some very firm support
structure. The distance off the ground is not critical but
if it is at all high off the ground, it should be quite high:
high enough so that even a superleague basketballer can
walk under it without cracking open his skull!
For the moment, tighten the U-bolt nuts only enough
to allow the whole assembly to stay in position on the
mast but be rotatable. Later, when you finally tighten the
U-bolts they should be very tight so that the dish is secured
very firmly. The dish will want to swing away from the
wind like a weather vane so these bolts must ensure that
it cannot! Don’t worry just yet about any adjustment to
the dish – just aim it in a basic east/northeast direction
before you partially tighten the U-bolts.
The feedhorn/LNB bracket bolts are still only finger
tight – that makes it easier to adjust polarity if necessary
later.
The dish assembly is now complete but you may wish
to cover any gal-plated bolts in silicone sealant for more
protection against rust. Don’t seal the U-bolts or feedhorn
bracket bolts; you need to aim the dish first.
Connecting it up
We’ll assume you have made up a suitable length of
high quality, 75-ohm coax. RG-6/U is normally used for
satellite installations – normal RG-59 TV cable has too
much attenuation at the very high frequencies involved.
The length should be enough to easily reach from the
dish to where the receiver will be placed, without any
“trip traps” (ie, lengths running above the ground where
they can be tripped over!).
F connectors are used on both the feedhorn and receiver
so you’ll need three of these. F connectors are available in
screw-on or crimp-type (which require a special crimping
tool). All of these items are available at most electronics stores or satellite specialists. F-male to RCA-female
adaptors are also available if you want to use a standard
video-type lead.
(Av-Comm Pty Ltd has RG-6/U coax for $1.00 per metre
and F connectors for $1.39 each, both inc GST).
Screw one end of the F connector into the receiver “RF
in” socket and the other end into the LNB socket (on the
back). LNB power, by the way, is supplied by the receiver
down the coax.
JULY 2000 15
Elevation angles (in
degrees) of a prime focus
dish to the 160°E Optus
B1 satellite from
Australia. If your town
isn’t on the map, you will
need to extrapolate a
little. You’ll also need to
calculate the angle for the
18° offset dish we’re using
(subtract 18 from your
location’s true elevation
angle). In the final event,
though, trial and error
can be used to get the best
result.
75
70
65
60
55
50
45
25
Because the output of the receiver
is video and audio, your TV receiver
will need video and audio inputs
(most modern ones do). Alternatively,
connect the receiver via the video-in
and audio-in sockets on your video
cassette recorder. You could also buy
or build an RF modulator.
Dish alignment
Aligning the dish involves a bit of
knowledge which you may or may
not have yet!
Basically, there are just a few of
things you need to know. First, the
output of the LNB occupies a band
of frequencies between 950MHz and
1450MHz. Second, the polarity of the
signal from the satellite can be either
horizontal or vertical (sometimes
both) and the way to adjust this is
simply to rotate the feed horn/LNB
in its bracket through 90°.
Finally, the dish needs to be aimed
quite precisely in the direction of the
satellite. This involves two adjustments which themselves depend on
where the dish is installed – the direction itself (also called the azimuth)
and also the elevation of the satellite
above the horizon.
Azimuth is set by simply rotating
the dish on the pole; elevation is set
by adjusting the large screw thread
on the mounting bracket so that the
correct angle of elevation is achieved.
(The type of mounting bracket fitted
to the dish is called an Az-El bracket
because it allows adjustment of both).
There is another slight wrinkle:
remember we said before that this is
an offset dish.
Normally a dish is aimed directly
at the “bird” along its parabolic axis
but an offset dish needs to be aimed
as if were part of a larger dish (which
in theory it is).
For example, we want to aim at the
16 Silicon Chip
30
35
40
Optus B1 satellite (the one with most
analog signals on it!) located at 160°
east. The calculated angle of elevation
for Sydney is 49.5° (this is derived
mathematically). As the offset angle
of the dish is 18°, the actual elevation
of the dish is 31.5° (the angle between
the vertical backing plate and true vertical). A large protractor and plumb
bob is handy to get this angle right.
If you’re in Woop Woop, make the
appropriate adjustments to this angle.
(Oh, Woop Woop isn’t on the map?
Choose a nearby town or city and
use that. You may need to extrapolate
slightly).
Firing it up
Knowing all this, it’s time to aim
the dish. We’re going to cheat a bit by
using the receiver as a signal strength
indicator. The signal level meter reads
from 0 to 99, with the higher the figure
the more signal being received.
By tuning the receiver to a known
frequency (see table 1), and setting the
LNB polarity we can adjust the dish
for correct alignment. The LNB has a
label attached to one side – when this
label faces up, the LNB is vertically
polarised.
The digital frequency readout on
the receiver (accessed when you press
the “tune” button) is a 3-digit figure
which is actually the frequency in
MHz or, if that figure is between 000
and 450, the frequency without a “1”
in front of it – eg, if the readout says
955 it is 955MHz; if it says 245 it is
1245MHz.
Set the elevation as detailed above
and aim the dish as close as you can
to where the satellite should be. This
may require a compass and an accurate local map to get the angle correct
but in general, close enough should
be good enough to find some sort of
signal. Once a signal has been found
the dish can be aimed properly.
This can take some time for the first
time user but then that’s part of learning about satellite TV. For those who
find the job a bit too time consuming,
a simple signal strength meter can be
purchased, as can an elevation meter,
used for setting the dish elevation. Of
course a plumbob and a protractor can
also be used for this purpose.
Once the elevation has been set, all
that is necessary is to pan the dish
around towards magnetic north until
some sort of image is seen. Mounting
the dish on a ground-mounted pole
makes this procedure much easier.
When a signal is received the dish
azimuth, elevation and the LNB polarity can be peaked for best picture.
At the same time the channel can
be entered into the receiver’s memory
by pressing the “channel” button,
selecting an unused channel and
then pressing “store”. Next time you
want that satellite signal, it should
still be there.
So now you’ve made your first, albeit small (and low cost – especially
low cost!) steps into the fascinating
world of satellite TV. You’ll agree – it’s
SC
out of this world!
WHERE DO YOU GET IT?
This system is only available from Av-Comm Pty Ltd, 24/9 Powells Rd,
Brookvale NSW 2100, (phone 02 9939 4377) for $49.95 including GST. Freight is
additional (due to the size of the dish the goods would normally be sent by road).
All dishes and hardware are as described and photographed; receivers are
from the Scientific Atlanta 9600 series with minor differences between models.
Orders will be filled on an “as received” basis until stocks are exhausted; specific
receiver models cannot be requested nor can you order individual components
from these systems. If you want only the dish, for example, it will still cost you
$49.95 – and you're going to get a bonus receiver and LNB!
The systems are all used and are sold “as is”, and there is no guarantee
(although all systems were working at time of withdrawal from service).
* Garry Cratt is the Technical Director of Av-Comm Pty Ltd.
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Adem Compac II takes this unique concept even further! It
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This remarkable device contains a PIR movement detector
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take any appropriate action.
Shown
approx.
same size!
But there’s more: you can actually talk back to anyone on
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Believe it or not, you are looking at one of the most
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Easy, do-it-yourself installation takes only a couple of
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The Micro Adem doesn’t look like any security system
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But this amazing device allows you to call in from any other
phone (even a mobile), key in your PIN code via the phone
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Amazing technological breakthrough!
Call from any phone, anywhere in the world!
Listen in, talk back or sound an alarm!
Battery or mains (plugpack) operated
Arm/disarm via phone or remote controller
Exceptional value: only $699 inc GST!
Just think of the applications! If you already have an alarm
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And if you don’t have an alarm system, this may be all you
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SE E T H
IN THI E REVIEW
MONT
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ON CH H’ S
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Audibly monitor your own premises
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Do-it-yourself technology: 1 minute installation
Call from any phone, anywhere in the world
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All this for only $79 inc GST!
SY
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DEALER
ENQUIRIES
WELCOME
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CU
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IS
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4D
PROUDLY DESIGNED, MANUFACTURED AND DISTRIBUTED IN AUSTRALIA BY
4D SYSTEMS PTY LTD
Suite 2, 3-5 Station Rd, Auburn NSW 2144.
JULY 2000 17
Phone (02) 9649-5065; Fax (02) 9649-4324.
email: sales<at>4dsystems.com.au website:www.4dsystems.com.au
Flexible, attractive
There’s nothing particularly new about moving
message displays – except this one.
Not only is it easy to build, it's easy to program,
it looks good. . . and the price is right.
Design by Atilla Aknar*
Article by Ross Tester
A
great deal of time and effort
has gone into the design of
this moving message display.
And the end result is a very attractive
proposition – in all senses of the word.
For a start, the kit price is significantly less than any commercial
product which could be classed as
equivalent.
That’s a welcome change – we all
know that these days building a kit
can often cost as much as buying a
finished product (or even more).
Second, the display looks good. It’s
housed in a clear acrylic tube with a
red acrylic filter and black backing
and end caps. This method means
the display is suitable for placing on
a shelf or desk, hanging from a wall
or even hanging from a ceiling (see
inset box).
Third, it is flexible. We have shown
a “double” display – that is, two
PC boards linked together to form
an 8-unit display. However, there’s
nothing to stop you making a mini
version with only one PC board and
a 4-unit display.
Finally (and perhaps most importantly), the system is incredibly
easy to use. No special PC software
is required – just a “dumb terminal”
capable of sending and receiving via
the RS232 (serial) output.
Almost certainly your computer
already has just such software built
in; in some cases (eg, Windows 2000
users) you may need to download
some freeware from the ’net.
Basically, all you have to do is type
your text into the PC, it sends the text
on through the RS232 port to the message board’s EEPROM message store
and the text stays in memory until
another message is written, even if
power is cut.
A somewhat similar Moving Message Display was published in the
February 1997 issue of SILICON CHIP.
However, when we say “somewhat
similar” any comparison between that
project and this is just about limited
to the name!
The major difference is that the
earlier project was totally controlled
by a PC and had to remain connected
to it. This one is fully self-contained:
once the message is programmed in
via the computer, the display runs
independently.
The other big difference is in the
number and type of LEDs: the earlier
one used 336 individual LEDs in a
48x7 matrix. This one uses eight integrated LED displays, each with a 5
x 7 matrix, making 280 LEDs in total.
This is what your Moving Message Dispay should look like before it is placed in its tube “case”. Of course, there’s nothing
to stop you using it just like this if you want to but the red Acrylic filter in front makes it look much better.
18 Silicon Chip
So instead of 672 soldered LED joints
you make just 112 (28 per display).
The circuit
The circuit, shown in Fig.1 (overleaf), is reasonably standard for
this type of equipment. Most of the
clever work is done inside the PIC
micro-controller!
Power is provided by a nominal 12V
DC plugpack capable of supplying
about 350mA. This is regulated to
about 5.6V by a 7805 5V regulator with
a silicon diode between its “ground”
input and the circuit ground. This
diode effectively lifts the normal 5V
output of the regulator by the voltage
drop across the junction, around
0.5-0.7V.
A MAX202CPE communications
chip (IC3) accepts data from the serial
port of the computer in a 9600,8,N,1
format (ie 9600 baud, 8 data bits, no
parity bits, 1 stop bit). This is fed
into the TX and RX inputs of IC1, a
PIC16C63A.
PIC Ports RA0-RA3 connect to the
message store IC, a 93LC46B EEPROM,
(IC2) which can store up to 125 characters. This is non-volatile memory,
meaning the contents of the ROM are
not lost when power is removed.
The contents will in fact stay in
memory for many, many years (around
40 years guaranteed) which makes the
message board ideal for very occasional warning messages.
The OSC inputs are connected to
a 3.58MHz crystal oscillator circuit
which provides timing for the entire
circuit. This particular frequency
crystal is used because they’re made
in the hundreds of millions for NTSC
TV sets – so they’re really cheap!
The microcontroller’s output ports,
RB0-RB7, RA4, RA5, RA2 (which
does double duty) and RC0-RC4 are
all used in the multiplexing and
driving circuitry for the 7 x 5 matrix
of LEDs, each housed in a single
TC20-11SWRA display (DISP1-4).
Interposed between the LEDs and PIC
are three ULN2003AN high current
buffers (IC5, 6 and 7) connected to
the LED columns, along with LED row
driver transistors Q4-Q10.
As there are eight of the LED displays each with five columns, there
are 40 columns to drive. The PIC allocates 40-byte buffers corresponding
to the message and proceeds to drive
column 1 with the first part of the first
letter of that message. For example, if
the message begins with the letter B, D,
E, F, H, K, L, M, N, P or R, the whole
first column of LEDs (on the right) is
lit. This is then moved to column 2,
then column 3, and so on.
In the meantime the PIC has told
And here it is inside the case, complete with
filter. The cable in front is all that is required
to program it from virtually any PC running a
terminal program.
JULY 2000 19
20 Silicon Chip
JULY 2000 21
Note the groove down the
middle of the boards: if the
“mini” version is constructed,
the boards snap apart along
this line. For the “maxi”
version, the two boards require
seven inter-connecting links as
shown here and in the
illustration below.
column 2 to light in the pattern corresponding to the next part of the first
letter: for example, if it were a B, D
or E the top and bottom LEDs in the
column would be lit.
When column 2 empties into column 3, the contents of column 1 are
moved to column 2 and column 1
lights with the next portion of the
letter. This process happens continuously and the eyes, with their
persistence of vision, are fooled into
believing that they are seeing a full
word, indeed a full message, whereas
at any particular instant in time, all
that would be seen is a series of LEDs.
To prove the point that it is indeed
an optical illusion, try getting so close
to a moving message display that you
can no longer read words. Or fix your
gaze on either the start or the end of
the message. All you will see is a mess
of flashing LEDs!
Mini or full version?
What we have been describing so far
is only half the circuit. We mentioned
before that it could be built in a “mini”
version using only half the LEDs.
The full version consists of two
nearly identical PC boards, the second
board missing a few components and
with a few links across the back of
the boards. Note that the PIC chip is
programmed slightly differently in the
second board so don’t mix the PICs
up when constructing. It won’t work!
Data output is taken from the RC3,
RC4, RC2, RC1 and RC0 ports of one
Components are mounted on both sides of the PC board. Most are on the “bottom” side (Fig.2 above – note only one board
shown) but the LED displays mount on the top side (Fig.3 below), along with the seven links between the Part 1 and Part 2
boards.
22 Silicon Chip
The completed “maxi” version of the moving message display with two near-identical PC boards connected together to
form an eight-letter display. We say “near identical” because there are differences – not the least being the PIC chips
themselves which are are certainly not interchangeable. Each contains different code.
PIC and fed into the RC7, RC6, RA3,
RA2, RA1 and RA0 inputs of the
second PIC.
On the second board, the MAX202
RS232 communications chip (IC3), the
93LC46 EEPROM message store (IC2)
and associated capacitors (C7 to C11)
are not used.
The housing
Apart from the fact that it works
so well, one of this project’s biggest
assets is that it looks great!
The entire project (with the obvious exception of the RS232 lead) is
housed in a 305mm length of 65mm
(OD) clear acrylic tube with black end
caps glued in place.
A 300 x 53mm length of 3mm red
acrylic is used as a filter in front of
the LED displays, effectively hiding
all but the lit LEDs.
The LED displays mount on one
side of the PC board(s) while all components mount on the other. A 305 x
110mm piece of dark window-tinting
film wraps around the rear of the
acrylic tube, hiding everything inside
except the LED displays.
– how long you want the cable to be!).
Connections
We will assume you are making the
“maxi” version (ie, eight LED displays)
because that’s the way the kit is supplied (including the case length).
If you only want the “mini” version
(four LED displays), the two PC boards
will need to be snapped apart at the
V-groove between them. You’ll also
need to cut the acrylic tube to the right
length (and that’s not an easy task!).
Before we start on the electronics
side we’re going to work on the “case”,
which consists of an acrylic tube, a red
acrylic filter, two end caps and a sheet
of dark window-tinting film.
The reason for this cart-before-thehorse approach is that the filter must
be glued inside the tube and the film
fixed to the outside of the tube. The
latter takes several hours to dry, so
while that’s happening you can get on
with the electronics.
First, though, there are two holes
needed for the DC power socket and
the 3.5mm stereo socket (serial data)
in one end of the tube. Exact position
isn’t important – as a guide ours were
25mm and 45mm from one end. We
rebated the hole for the 3.5mm socket
so the nut would be recessed.
Secure the length of red acrylic
inside the tube, opposite the drilled
holes, with a drop of acrylic glue
(available at hobby shops) on each
corner (super glue shouldn’t be used
because it leaves a white residue on
the acrylic).
The sheet of window tinting film
should be just the right length to wrap
around the outside back of the tube
from one edge of the red acrylic filter
to the other.
A standard 2.1mm DC socket is
mounted through the rear of the tube
to allow connection to power. That
part was easy.
The harder part was mounting a
standard 9-pin “D” serial connector
on the curved surface.
In the end Atilla came up with an
elegant solution: drop the D connector
and use a 3.5mm stereo audio socket
instead!
Only three connections are required
from the computer’s serial port so a
3.5mm stereo jack plug and socket
was ideal. And it allows a very neat
connection – the only slight hiccup
is that you’ll need to make up your
own serial cable because, as far as we
know, no-one has ever made or used
a 9-pin D to 3.5mm stereo cable or
adaptor before now.
Fortunately, that part is really easy
(and you can choose – within reason
Construction
JULY 2000 23
(Left): It's a good idea to solder only two LED displays
in place to test it – if these two work, the odds are that
it will all work. If they don't work, you only have two
displays to unsolder!
Dunk the tube in water containing a
small amount of mild detergent. Peel
off the protective backing sheet from
the film and carefully dunk that as well
(the detergent makes the water wetter!)
Remove both and shake off excess
water, then place one end of film on the
outside of the tube, adhesive side in,
right along the line of the red acrylic
filter inside the tube.
Slowly wrap the film right around
back of the tube, removing any air
bubbles as you go with a cloth used as
a squeegee. When you get to the other
end of the film it should be a perfect
line-up with the other side of the red
acrylic filter inside.
The detergent water means you have
a bit of “slip” available if you need to
The acrylic filter is marginally narrower than the PC
board (though exactly the same length). This is to account
for the curvature of the tube: the PC board mounts right
in the middle but the filter sits closer to the side.
move the film; indeed, it will allow
you to remove it completely and start
again if necessary. When satisfied that
you have a perfectly placed film, put
the tube aside to dry for several hours
(overnight is ideal if the tube is left in
a reasonably warm [not hot] place).
Now, back to the electronics assembly. First check the PC board for
obvious defects (remember it is double
sided).
Most components, with the exception of some wire links and the LED
displays, mount on one side of the
board. You can easily identify which
side the links and displays mount
on by the words “DISP4” through
“DISP1” printed on it.
Proceed as you would with any
project assembly: mount all the low
profile, non-active components (resistors, crystal and capacitors, taking
due care with electrolytic capacitor polarity) followed by the smaller active
components (diodes and transistors).
Note that the main filter capacitor
(C14) needs to be pretty small, otherwise the assembled board may not fit
properly in the tube (it may foul the
power or serial sockets).
The kit will have small capacitors
but if you source your own they may
need to be mounted about 10mm above
the board and then bent over at right
angles, lying on top of D1, C12, etc.
All ICs except the PIC are soldered
directly into the board; again, check
the polarity! Solder the PIC’s socket in
Parts List – for “mini” version*
1 x PC board coded M4399 (two
boards attached together)
1 x clear acrylic tube, 305mm long,
57.5mm ID, 63.5mm OD (case)
1 x red acrylic sheet, 305mm long,
50mm wide, 3mm thick (filter)
2 x black end caps to suit tube
(glue on type)
1 x 305mm x 110mm sheet self
adhesive dark window tint film
1 x 3.5mm stereo phone socket
1 x 2.1mm DC socket
1 x 10-way PCB header plug
Semiconductors
1x 1N4001 silicon diode
1 x Pre-Programmed PIC16C63A
(IC1)#
1 x 93LC468 (IC2)
1 x MAX202 RS-23
communication chip (IC3)
1 x 7805 regulator (REG1/IC4)
3 x ULN2003A high current drivers
(IC5,6,7)
4 x TC20-11SRWA 7x5 LED
displays (DISP1-4)
7 x BC327 PNP transistors
3 x BC337 NPN transistors
24 Silicon Chip
Capacitors
1x 470µF 25VW PC mounting
electrolytic(C14)
1x 100µF 16VW PC mounting
electrolytic (C15)
8 x 0.1µF polyester (C3, C7-C13)
2 x 39pF ceramic (C1, C2)
Message Board Programming
1 length (as required) 3-conductor
(or twin shielded) cable
1 x 3.5mm stereo phone plug
1 x 9-pin D plug (to suit computer
serial port)
Suitable PC terminal program **
Resistors (1%, 0.1W)
15 x 4.7kΩ (R1-R8, R12-R18)
3 x 1kΩ
(R10,R19,R20)
8 x 22Ω
(R21-R27)
NOTES:
* All of above semiconductor,
resistor, capacitor and crystal
lists must be doubled for maxi
version, with exception of IC2,
IC3, C7, C8, C10 & C11 – only
one of each required. The tube,
filter and tint film specifed are
for the “maxi” version.
Crystal
1 3.579545MHz
Miscellaneous
7 lengths approx 150mm long very
thin insulated hookup wire (for
links in maxi version)
5 lengths approx 50mm long thin
insulated hookup wire (for PC
board to two sockets
connections)
1 x plugpack supply, 12V DC <at>
500mA output
Acrylic glue
Foam plastic, bubble wrap, etc for
packing
#IC1 requires different code for
each half of display.
R11, C4-C6 are not included in
either version nor is any
position shown on PC board
**Term90 software may be downloaded free of charge from
www.siliconchip.com.au
How the display fits in
the tube: this photo and
drawing should reveal
all! The one thing we
haven’t shown is how to
put the window tinting
film on the outside of
the tube but this is fully
explained in the text.
The packing material
behind the PC board
stops any movement – it
can be just about
anything nonconductive. Foam
rubber/plastic is ideal.
PC BOARD
LED DISPLAYS
58mm (ID)
CLEAR
ACRYLIC TUBE
(notch to top) but don’t fit the PIC yet.
You can also solder in the regulator;
it lies flat down on the PC board with
its legs bent down at 90°.
Before commencing work on the
opposite side of the board, check your
soldering carefully. Remember most of
your soldering will be covered by the
displays so if you’ve made a dry or
suspect solder joint or a bridge, now’s
the time to discover it! We suggest you
use a magnifying glass to inspect the
whole of the boards thoroughly.
PACKING MATERIAL
POWER AND
PROGRAMMING
SOCKETS
RED ACRYLIC
FILTER
the inside with nuts on the outside. If
your sockets are the type which mount
from the outside with the nut on the
inside, you’ll need to unsolder the
wires before final assembly.
At this stage you don't need to connect the serial input but you can solder
the wires on now if you wish.
It’s best to use a black wire for the
ground connection; please yourself
which other colours you use.
Now solder in just two of the LED
Links
The full or “maxi” version requires
seven long links between the two
(joined) boards using fine insulated
hookup wire. Five are for data, two for
power. Place these links on the LED
display (ie opposite) side of the boards
where shown before continuing.
Testing
If you’re satisfied with your workmanship, it’s time to put it to the test.
The reason we do this now, before
completion, is that it is very much
harder later on, once all eight LED
displays are in place and even harder
once the message board is mounted
inside its case.
First, solder two wires (red and
black are good choices) to the “PWR”
inputs – 50mm is ample.
Solder these to the DC socket,
matching the polarity of the plugpack.
Usually, plus (red) is the centre pin but
don’t bank on it. If in doubt, check it
with a multimeter first.
By the way, it is preferable to use
sockets which mount through from
COMPONENTS
The DC power socket (left) and the
3.5mm stereo “programming” socket (right). With 20/20 hindsight, we
would have swapped these around...
displays into each half of the board –
say one in DISP1 position on the right
board and one in DISP 4 position on
the left board. Note that the soldering
is (obviously!) done on the component
side of the PC board.
You may note that they can go in
either way – but one way won’t work!
The type number and other writing
along one edge of the display is the
bottom of the device.
When you hold the PC board so
that you can read the writing on it
(eg, DISP4, DISP3 etc), the display is
DARK
WINDOW TINT
inserted so that the writing on it goes
to the bottom.
Finally, insert the PICs into their
sockets – again, check the polarity.
It would be a real shame to see the
most expensive component go up in
a puff of smoke with that awful, acrid
smell!
Now connect the plugpack to the
DC input socket and apply power. If
all is well, you should see first of all
the righthand display LEDs flashing
and then shortly after the lefthand
display LEDs should do likewise. You
probably won’t be able to make out any
meaningful message – just the LEDs
flashing is a good sign.
If the LEDs don’t flash, you’ll need
to go hunting for the reason. It’s almost
certain to be an incorrectly placed
component or a bad solder joint.
With components on both sides of
the board, it’s difficult to remove anything to trouble-shoot. That’s why we
suggested you examine the board with
a magnifying glass before soldering in
the displays.
You could check that you get about
5.6V between the output of the 7805
and the negative supply. If you have
an oscilloscope you could also check
that the crystal is oscillating.
Apart from that, the only other easy
check to make is that the PIC microcontroller is not only inserted correctly
but also that all its pins are actually in
their respective holes (it’s easy to bend
a pin out of position).
Finishing off
If you did get flashing LEDs, you
can now insert and solder the rest of
JULY 2000 25
Programming it: as easy as 2-1-3!
We mentioned before that programming the Moving Message Display is one of its best features: it’s easy!
You can use just about any dumb terminal program and communicate with the Message Board in 9600,8,N,1 format.
Because we use Windows 2000 (which doesn’t include a suitable terminal program) we used a freeware program called
Term90 which can operate in a DOS box under Windows anything. The following is a guide to using this program which
can be downloaded free of charge from the SILICON CHIP website, www.siliconchip.com.au Install the software as
normal under Windows 95, 98, NT or 2000.
SETTING UP THE SIGN
PROGRAMMING
1. Plug the data cable into serial
port COM2 on your PC.
The Menu displayed is as follows.
To setup your message on the Moving
Message Display, use the following
commands:
2. Plug the stereo jack into the back
of the Moving Message Display.
3. Plug the power connector into
the back of the Moving Message
Display and the power pack into
the power point. DO NOT turn
on the power at this stage.
4. Start the TERM90 terminal
program. When it starts you will
see a blank screen with some
menus. DO NOT change any of
these menus.
5. Now turn on the power to your
Moving Message Display. The
display should read “MINI
DISPLAY” and you should see a
MENU displayed on your
computer screen.
You are now ready to start
programming your message.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Type new message
Delete existing message
Program message
Message scroll speed = FAST
Message scroll speed = MEDIUM
Message scroll speed = SLOW
The CAPS LOCK key must be pressed
to enable your text to be sent to the
Moving Message Display
1. Press 2 to delete any existing
message.
2. Press 1 and a sub menu will be
displayed to enable you to type
your message – in normal, BOLD
or REVERSE text if required.
Press CTRL+B to display the text
following in BOLD (this will display
a smiley face symbol). CTRL+R
REVERSES the text following (this
will display an up & down arrow
symbol). Note – reversed text is
much harder to read. CTRL+E
ends the text enhancements.
3. Adjust the scroll speed by
selecting option 4, 5 or 6 from
the main menu. Type in your text
and you will see this displayed in
real time on the Moving
Message Display.
4. DO NOT use the arrow keys to
cursor up, down, left or right.
This will corrupt the displayed
text and you will have to start
again. Use the backspace key to
move over the text you want to
change and retype your text.
5. After your message is complete press ESC; you will see a
prompt MESSAGE ACCEPTED.
Now press 3 to program the
Moving Message Display. You
will see a prompt MESSAGE
PROGRAMMED. Press ESC to
clear the screen and re-display
the main menu.
6. If you want to change your
message simply follow the steps
under SETTING UP THE SIGN
and then press 2 to delete your
message and then follow the
steps under Programming.
7. Finally select FILE, EXIT and OK
to close the terminal program,
unplug your data cable and
place the Moving Message
Display in the appropriate
location.
The TERM90 screen, run either
under DOS or in a Windows DOS
box. It’s as simple as 2-1-3: The top
part of the screen comes on when
you turn on the Moving Message
Display. Pressing 2 deletes any
existing message, pressing 1
readies the terminal for your new
message. Pressing 3 programs the
new message into the unit, where
it will stay until deleted.
26 Silicon Chip
A really nifty method of mounting . . .
Just imagine the visual impact of this Moving Message
Display apparently floating in space with no visible signs
of support and or power wires…
We’ve seen this done before by professional display
companies – all it takes is two lengths of some very fine,
black insulated wire (such as one of the four conductors
from telephone cable).
The wires not only support the unit, they provide the
power connections.
The idea is to wrap the wires tightly around the unit right
the LED displays. It’s probably a good
idea to carefully remove the PICs and
store them back in their anti-static
packaging before soldering. As you
place each display, make sure the
labels all go the same way – down!
If you didn’t do it before, solder
in the three serial input wires and
connect them to their socket. Fig.2
shows the wiring for both the sockets.
up close to the end caps, with the power connections made
by running the wires along the back of the unit, following
the edge of the tint film. You could even dispense with the
DC socket and wire directly to the PC board. Done right,
the wires are almost invisible.
The opposite ends are secured to what ever you want to
hang it from. The one thing to watch is that as both wires
are black, you have to be careful with polarity.
The result looks fantastic – especially if the room is
just a little dark and the wires cannot easily be spotted.
tube: it should be a reasonably snug,
but not too tight, fit. Slide it all out
again, taking care not to scratch the
acrylic.
You will need to cut or pierce the
tinting film with a very sharp knife
or scalpel to give access to the two
holes you drilled before. Be careful
– it’s easy to damage the film.
Now slide the assembled PC
3.5mm STEREO PLIUG
5
1
5
2 3
6
DB-9 FEMALE
CONNECTOR
(SOLDER SIDE)
9
Finally, carefully re-insert the PIC
chips and the electronics side is
complete.
Now when you connect power you
should see the complete message
which is programmed into the new
PIC chip: “MINI DISPLAY”.
If you get this message, it’s a fair
bet that your unit is working properly
and ready to program. You might
like to skip to the “programming”
section and type in a message just to
make sure!
You may have noticed that there are
quite a number of apparently empty
holes on the finished board.
These are not component holes as
such, but “vias” or plated-throughholes which connect the tracks together where required on opposite
sides of the board.
Providing you have components
wherever shown on the component
overlay (fig.2), you’re ready to get
your display up and running.
Final Assembly
First step is to make sure it all fits!
Slide the whole shebang into the
inside and fit the appropriate nuts.
We mentioned before that some
DC power sockets mount from the
outside with the nut on the inside.
If yours is one of these (as will be
supplied in the kit), you will need to
unsolder the wires, mount the socket
and then very carefully resolder, taking care not to get the iron too close
to the acrylic. It melts!
RING
BODY
TIP
Here's how to make up the
programming cable to operate from
the serial port on your PC. The length can be as long
as you like (within reason!). This cable is shown in the photo on page 19.
board(s) into the tube, wires and connectors end first, about three quarters
into the tube.
The assembly goes on the side of
the red acrylic closest to the drilled
holes. Before sliding all the way in,
push the two sockets (3.5mm and DC
power) through their holes from the
Where do you get it?
The Moving Message Display
was designed by 4D Systems Pty
Ltd, who hold copyright on the
design and on the program residing
in the PICs.
A complete kit of parts is available from 4D Systems for $189
(including GST) plus pack and
post. Contact 4D Systems at Suite
2, 3-5 Station Road, Auburn NSW
2144. Phone (02) 9649 5065; fax
(02) 9649 4324
Email: sales<at>4dsystems.com.
au Web Site: www.4dsystems.
com.au
* Atilla Aknar is Managing Director
of 4D Systems Pty Ltd.
(While we mounted our 3.5mm
socket closest to the outside edge of
the tube, it may be better to swap the
two sockets around and mount the
DC socket closest to the edge to make
soldering easier).
The assembled PC board is a reasonably good fit inside the case but
it was able to move.
We didn’t want this, so we pushed
some scraps of foam rubber in behind
the board (ie, component side) to
stop it rattling. You might need to
do similar.
Before gluing on the two end
caps, connect power and check that
everything still works.
If so, a couple of dobs of acrylic
glue on the end caps will secure them
in place.
And that’s just about all there is to
it. By now, you’re starting to agree
with us that the Moving Message
Display is the equal of any commercial unit – and you’ve saved money
building it.
Now, what are you going to tell the
world about with your new Moving
Message Display?
SC
JULY 2000 27
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.rockby.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.rockby.com.au
Compact
Fluorescent
Lamp Driver
Although our photo shows a single CFL
in a loose bayonet fitting, the unit is
designed to be wired as a permanent
installation with fixed bayonet sockets.
Compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs) are far more
efficient than their incandescent counterparts.
This inverter circuit is ideal for driving 240VAC
CFLs from a 12V battery, up to a total load of
about 40W. It can be used anywhere you require
good lighting when there is no mains power, or
as part of a solar-powered lighting system.
By JOHN CLARKE
O
BTAINING GOOD LIGHTING
from battery power has never
been easy unless fluorescent
lamps are used. This is because
fluorescent lamps produce far more
light output than incandescent lamps
for a given power input.
In practice, this means that you
can burn your lights for longer before
the battery goes flat – up to five or six
times longer, in fact!
This “Compact Fluorescent Driver” is built into a sturdy metal case
and is specifically designed to drive
30 Silicon Chip
CFLs. It delivers a 240V (340V peak)
waveform that’s approximately sinusoidal in shape, which means that it’s
capable of driving CFLs with a high
power factor, as well as earlier designs
with low power factor.
Note that, in general, this circuit
is not designed to power other
mains-operated equipment.
Background
Fluorescent lighting which operates from 12VDC is not new and
there are many commercial 12V
fluorescent lights available which
use the “long-tube” style of lamp. Of
course, the tube itself doesn’t operate
from 12VDC but rather via a DC-DC
converter circuit built into the fitting.
In fact, SILICON CHIP published a
high-efficiency inverter for 18W and
36W fluorescent tubes in the November 1993 issue and this was designed
to fit inside the lamp batten.
Because of their large size and light
dispersion characteristics, this type of
lamp is mainly used for mounting on
the ceiling of a caravan or for emergency lighting. However, they are
somewhat less than ideal for camping
or outdoor use because of their bulk
and rather awkward shape.
Compact fluorescent lamps on the
other hand provide lighting similar to
a gas-powered camping lantern and
are ideal for mounting on a picnic table, on the ground or even in a caravan
ceiling. They will fit into standard
mains-style bayonet or Edison screw
(ES) fittings and consequently are
easy to replace. They are typically
rated at 9-25W which means that you
can run up to four lamps using this
circuit, depending on their rating.
Physically, a CFL consists of a small
folded fluorescent lamp attached
to a base which contains the driver
(inverter) circuit. The internal driver
circuit for the tube is basically an
“electronic ballast”. This typically
produces a high-frequency drive
waveform and includes inbuilt current limiting for the tube. The high
frequency prevents flicker and also
improves the light output.
What this all means is that the
CFL’s internal driver circuit assumes
that it will be supplied with a 50Hz
sinewave at 240VAC, which is close
to 340V peak. Any or all of these
features of the supply may be used
by the electronic ballast to drive
the fluorescent tube. Any external
circuit which drives the CFL from
a different supply (such as 12VDC)
must take these requirements into
consideration.
Fig.1: a typical power supply circuit as used in many older compact
fluorescent lamps. Its main disadvantage is the fact that it draws
current over only a small part of each mains cycle. Note that the tube is
powered from 340V DC.
Fig.2: this circuit is used in the newer CFLs and offers a much
improved power factor compared to the circuit shown in Fig.1. The
tube is no longer powered from 340V DC but from the full-wave
rectified mains waveform.
Basic circuits
Fig.1 shows a typical power supply
circuit as used for some CFL electronic ballasts. It uses a low value
resistor in series with a full-wave
bridge rectifier. Filter capacitor C1
charges up to the peak voltage of the
240VAC waveform to give a 340VDC
supply which is then applied to the
electronic ballast circuit. The ballast
circuit in turn drives the fluorescent
tube.
Based on this power supply, you
would expect that CFLs can also be
driven from a 340VDC supply. After
all, if 340VDC is applied to the Active (A) and Neutral (N) terminals,
the voltage across C1 would still be
340VDC (neglecting the voltage drops
across the diodes in the bridge rectifier) and the electronic ballast would
be none the wiser.
This may be true for those CFLs that
use this particular power supply but
not for all CFLs. Some CFLs derive
their supply in a different manner
and cannot be directly powered from
340V DC, as we shall see.
Power factor correction
A big disadvantage of the circuit
shown in Fig.1 is that it only draws
current from the 240VAC mains near
the crest of the waveform, where the
voltage is at or near its peak of about
340V. This occurs because capacitor
C1 is topped up to the peak mains
voltage and the rectifier diodes do
not conduct below this peak voltage.
So this is a rather crude supply because current is only drawn for a brief
interval during each mains half-cycle.
What’s more, the current pulses will
be quite high in value. This leads to
poor power utilisation and results
in considerable power losses, which
reduces the efficiency.
A better approach is to use a circuit
that draws current over the greater
WARNING!
The output voltage produced by
this CFL Driver circuit is potentially
lethal! Do not build it unless you
are experienced and know what
you are doing.
In particular, make sure that
you do not touch the output leads
and check that they are securely
connected to an approved mains
lighting socket in a fixed installation
before connecting 12V DC power.
Treat these wires as though they
are at mains potential.
Finally, be sure to keep your
hands away from the PC board
components associated with the
output terminals, diodes D7-D10
and the 470kΩ and 1MΩ resistors
in the feedback path.
part of the waveform and this is what
CFL designers are now beginning to
do. The newer electronic ballasts
effectively draw current over most of
the mains waveform, thus reducing
the peak current and also improving
the power factor. This also creates less
of a problem for the supply utilities.
By the way, the term “power factor”
in this case refers to the extent to
which the sinusoidal mains waveform is utilised. A low power factor
of around 0.5 means that current is
only drawn over a part of the mains
waveform while a high power factor
(greater than 0.95) means that the
waveform is almost fully utilised.
Fig.2 shows how these “improved”
electronic ballasts derive their supply
from the mains to improve the power
factor. The circuit looks similar to
Fig.1, with C1 charging to 340VDC
as before. However, there is a major
difference and that is that the fluorescent tube is no longer simply powered
from 340VDC but from the full-wave
rectified mains waveform.
The supply for the electronic ballast is still derived from the 340VDC
across C1 but this is now isolated
from the rectifier output using diode
D1. An LC filter on the mains input
prevents the high-frequency switching noise produced by the electronic
ballast from being fed back into the
mains supply.
JULY 2000 31
Fig.3 (left): this scope shot shows the mains waveform, along with the current
waveform for a non-power factor corrected CFL. Note that the current waveform
is quite “peaky”. The flattening at the top of the mains waveform is not caused
by the circuit but is present in many industrial areas due to switchmode power
supplies in PCs and gas discharge lighting. Fig.4 at right shows the mains
wave-form and the corresponding current waveform from a power factor
corrected CFL. Note how the current is far less “peaky” than before.
Using this circuit, the current
drawn by the fluorescent tube is much
more sinusoidal in shape compared
to that from Fig.1 (see Figs.3 & 4).
The peak current is substantial
ly
reduced and the current peak lasts
much longer.
By the way, you might expect that
this circuit would produce a flickering effect similar to that produced by
standard fluorescent long-tube lamps
which are driven from the mains.
This is because the current through
the lamp is varying at a 100Hz rate.
In fact, the light output is modulated by a small amount but the effect is
not noticeable due to the use of longpersistence phosphors and because
the tube is driven at a high frequency
by the electronic ballast.
Now for the million-dollar question: What would happen if we were
to drive a CFL which uses the circuit
of Fig.2 from a 340VDC supply?
Well, initially, not much. The fluor
escent tube would be quite bright but
would otherwise appear to be operating correctly. In practice, however,
it would be severely over-driven.
That’s because it is being driven from
340VDC rather than a 340V peak fullwave rectified waveform which has a
DC equivalent (RMS) of 240V.
As a result, the life expectancy of
the CFL would be severely compromised.
32 Silicon Chip
So how do we produce a circuit
which will comfortably drive all types
of CFLs? The obvious answer is to use
a sinewave inverter which produces a
50Hz 240VAC waveform. In this way,
all CFLs would be powered correctly. However, this type of inverter is
fairly complicated and requires a fair
number of power devices to produce
a clean 240V sinewave.
Fortunately, a pure sinewave inverter is overkill and we don’t need
to do this. The alternative approach is
to take into account the fact that CFLs
actually fullwave rectify the mains
waveform before doing anything else.
If we use an inverter that provides a
fullwave rectified sinewave output
rather than a genuine sinewave, the
CFL circuit would be none the wiser.
And that’s just what we have done
here. Of course, only two diodes in
the CFL’s fullwave bridge rectifier
are now used, since we now have a
pulsating DC supply rather than AC,
but this is of no consequence.
Block diagram
Fig.5 shows the general arrangement of our CFL driver circuit. It’s
powered from a 12V battery which
supplies a switchmode controller IC,
the push-pull outputs of the controller in turn driving transformer T1 via
buffer stages and Mosfets Q1 & Q2.
In operation, the Mosfets switch
the primary windings of transformer
T1 in an alternate fashion at a high
frequency and the resulting waveform
is stepped up to a higher voltage in the
secondary winding. The secondary
output of T1 is then full-wave rectified and filtered to produce pulsating
DC with a peak voltage of about 340V.
The exact voltage at the output
is controlled via the feedback from
the A+ terminal to the switchmode
controller, in this case via a “half
sinewave shaper” circuit. In a conventional switchmode circuit, this
feedback is simply a voltage divider
which is set to provide the required
DC output voltage. It adjusts the pulse
width applied to the transformer so
that the output voltage is maintained
regardless of variations in load current or input voltage.
In this circuit, however, we have
to produce a half sinew
ave shape.
This is done by rapidly switching in
different voltage divider resistors in
sequence to simulate the half sinewave shape. This job is performed by
the “shaper” circuit.
Circuit details
Refer now to Fig.6 for the final
circuit details. It uses just six lowcost ICs, two Mosfets, a transformer
and a handful of transistors, diodes,
resistors and capacitors.
At the heart of the circuit is a TL494
pulse width modulation (PWM) controller (IC1). It contains a sawtooth
oscillator, two error amplifiers and
a PWM comparator. Also crammed
onto the chip are a “dead-time” control comparator, a 5V reference and
output control options for push-pull
or single-ended operation.
The RC oscillator components at
pins 5 & 6 set the operating frequency
to about 50kHz. The PWM outputs
from the error amplifiers appear at
pins 9 & 10 (E1 & E2) and drive paralleled buffer stages IC2d-IC2f and
IC2a-IC2c respectively. In turn, these
drive Mosfets Q1 & Q2.
Q1 & Q2 drive the centre-tapped
primary winding of transformer T1 in
push-pull mode; ie, when Q1 is on, Q2
is off and vice versa. As shown, the
centre tap of the transformer connects
to the +12V rail, while each side of
the primary winding is connected to
the drain of its corresponding Mosfet.
When Q1 is on, 12V is applied
across the top half of the primary
winding. Because of transformer
action, the lower half of the primary
winding also has 12V impressed
across it which means that Q2’s drain
is at 24V. Similarly, when Q2 is on,
the bottom of the transformer primary
goes to 0V and the top goes to 24V.
The resulting 24V peak-to-peak
waveform on the primary is then
stepped up by the secondary winding.
High speed diodes D7-D10 rectify the
resulting AC output from the secondary and this is then filtered using two
paralleled 0.1µF 250VAC capacitors.
Note that Mosfets Q1 & Q2 are
protected from over-voltage excursions on the drains using 16V zener
diodes ZD1 & ZD2, togeth
er with
series diodes D1 & D2. The series diodes prevent each of the zener diodes
from conducting when its associated
Mosfet is switched on.
In addition, any reverse voltages
that would otherwise be applied to
Parts List
1 PC board, code 11107001, 143 x
112mm (302 holes)
1 diecast box, 171 x 121 x 55mm
1 front-panel label, 167 x 117mm
1 M205 fuseholder
1 M205 5A fuse
1 25-28mm diameter iron
powdered toroid (L1) (Jaycar
LO-1244 or similar)
1 E30 transformer assembly
(T1)
1 SPDT 10A toggle switch with
integral LED and resistor (S1)
2 M3 x 10mm screws
2 M3 nuts
2 M3 flat washers
1 M4 sized solder lug
2 transistor insulating bushes
2 TO-220 silicone insulating
washers
2 cordgrip grommets
3 100mm cable ties
1 200mm cable tie to secure ferrite
cores on T1
1 2m length of heavy duty
automotive figure-8 wire
1 2m length of 240VAC 7.5A
figure-8 wire
1 12m length of 0.25mm ENCU
wire
1 1200mm length of 1mm ENCU
wire
1 500mm length of 0.8mm tinned
copper wire
4 PC stakes
Semiconductors
1 TL494 switchmode controller
(IC1)
1 4050 hex buffer (IC2)
1 7555, LMC555CN, TLC555,
CMOS timer (IC3)
1 4029 4-bit counter (IC4)
2 4051 8-channel analog
multiplexers (IC5, IC6)
2 MTP3055 60V Mosfets (Q1, Q2)
2 BC547 NPN transistors (Q3, Q4)
2 16V 1W zener diodes (ZD1,
ZD2)
5 1N914, 1N4148 diodes (D1-D4,
D6)
1 1N4004 1A diode (D5)
4 1N4936 500V high-speed diodes
(D7-D10)
Capacitors
2 4700µF 16VW PC electrolytic
2 10µF 16VW PC electrolytic
2 0.1µF 250VAC MKT X-Class
5 0.1µF MKT polyester
1 .039µF MKT polyester
1 .001µF MKT polyester
1 560pF ceramic
2 220pF ceramic
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
2 1MΩ
1 12kΩ
1 470kΩ
4 10kΩ
1 270kΩ
2 4.7kΩ
1 75kΩ
1 3.3kΩ
1 47kΩ
1 3kΩ
1 33kΩ
2 2.2kΩ
1 27kΩ
2 1kΩ
1 24kΩ
1 470Ω
4 22kΩ
2 10Ω
Miscellaneous
CFLs, bayonet or ES lamp holders.
Fig.5: the CFL Driver uses a switchmode controller to drive Mosfets Q1 & Q2. These in turn drive
centre-tapped transformer T1 which steps up the voltage across the primary. The transformer output
is then rectified and fed to the CFL. The half sinewave shaper circuit in the feedback path ensures
that the output waveform approximates a sinewave.
JULY 2000 33
MAIN FEATURES
•
•
•
•
•
•
Suitable for driving compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs).
Can drive loads up to 40W for CFLs with a power factor of 0.95.
Can drive loads up to 33W for CFLs with a low power factor.
Output voltage (and thus lamp brilliance) remains constant for 11-14.4V
DC input.
Reverse polarity protection.
Built-in electric shock protection between high voltage output and battery
terminals.
the gates of Q1 & Q2 due to capacitive effects are shunted to ground via
diodes D3 & D4.
Feedback
The feedback signal for the PWM
controller (IC1) is derived from the
high-voltage output at the A+ terminal. This is sampled using a voltage
divider consisting of series 470kΩ
and 1MΩ resistors and a resistance
value switched in by the 16-step half
sinewave shaper circuit. The resulting
feedback signal is then applied to the
pin 16 input of IC1.
Pin 16 is the non-inverting input of
one of the internal error amplifiers in
IC1. A 1MΩ feedback resistor between
pins 3 & 15 and the 4.7kΩ resistor
between pins 3 and 14 (VREF = 5V)
sets the gain of this error amplifier
to 213. Also included in the negative
feedback loop is a 1kΩ resistor and
series 0.1µF capacitor and these set
the low frequency rolloff for the error
amplifier.
In operation, IC1 continually adjusts the pulse width drive to the
Mosfets so that the voltage on pin 16
is maintained at 5V. The duty cycle
and thus the output voltage on the
A+ terminal at any instant depends
on the resistor values switched in by
the sinewave shaper circuit to form
the bottom leg of the voltage divider
in the feedback path.
For example, if a 22kΩ resistor is
switched in, the ratio is 22kΩ divided
by (470kΩ + 1MΩ + 22kΩ), or .0147.
As a result, the A+ output will be
at 5V/.0147 = 340V. Lower output
voltages are selected by switching in
higher value resistors.
Half-sinewave generator
In operation, the shaper circuit sequentially switches in various resistor
values to give an approximate half
34 Silicon Chip
sinewave at the A+ output.
IC3, IC4, IC5 & IC6 make up the
shaper circuit. IC3 is a CMOS 7555
timer which produces a 1.6kHz square
wave at its pin 3 output, as set by the
RC timing components on pins 2 &
6. This signal is applied to the clock
input of IC4, a 4029B 4-bit counter, via
a 2.2kΩ resistor. This resistor and its
associated 220pF capacitor increase
the risetime of the pin 3 output of IC3
to suit the operation of the counter.
The Q1-Q2 outputs of IC4 are
applied to the A, B & C inputs respectively of both IC5 & IC6. These
ICs are basically single-pole 8-way
switches, with the position of the
switch selected by the count value
on the A, B & C inputs.
As IC4 counts up from 0 to 7, the
Y0-Y7 outputs of IC5 & IC6 are each
selected in succession and so different resistor values are sequentially
connected to the common terminal at
pin 3 (and thus to pin 16 of IC1). As a
result, the divider ratio is constantly
being altered and this means that the
feedback voltage also alters each time
a different resistor is selected.
As shown on Fig.6, the Y0-Y7 outputs of IC5 and IC6 are connected
together in reverse order; ie, Y0 of IC5
goes to Y7 of IC6, Y1 goes to Y6, Y2
goes to Y5 and so on. The reason for
this is that we use IC5 to progressively
select lower-value resistors (starting
at 270kΩ) for the rising part of the
output waveform and then use IC6
to select the resistors in reverse order
for the falling part of the waveform.
In this way, IC5 and IC6 use the
same set of resistors. They just use
them in reverse order to each other!
The Q3 output from IC4 is used to
decide whether IC5 or IC6 is selected.
This output connects directly to the
inhibit input (INH, pin 6) of IC5 and
also drives transistor Q3 via a 10kΩ
resistor. Transistor Q3 functions as
an inverter and controls the inhibit
input of IC6.
In practice, the inhibit input must
be low for the IC to be selected. As
a result, IC5 is selected while IC4
counts from 0-8, while IC6 is selected
for the 8-16 count, after which the
cycle repeats.
Dead-time
So how do we stop the circuit from
producing glitches in the output each
time IC5 or IC6 selects a different
voltage divider resistor?
The answer to this is transistor
Q4 which is connected between the
dead-time (DT) input of IC1 (pin 4)
and the VREF terminal (pin 14). This
transistor is driven by the pin 3 output
of IC3 via a 3.3kΩ resistor and a 220pF
capacitor. Each time pin 3 goes high,
Q4’s base goes high for about 2µs (as
set by the 22kΩ resistor to ground) and
so Q4 briefly turns on and connects
the DT input to +5V (ie, to VREF).
This effectively shuts the PWM
controller down for 2µs on each clock
pulse, which is ample time for IC5 or
IC6 to select the next resistor value.
When Q4 switches off at the end of the
2µs period, a 4.7kΩ resistor pulls the
DT input low and the PWM controller
begins operating again.
High voltage protection
The high voltage output at the A+
terminal is potentially lethal since it
produces 240V RMS and can provide
well over 150mA of current. For this
reason, it is important that you don’t
simultaneously come into contact
with the A+ and N terminals.
Any contact between a battery
terminal and the N terminal will not
cause a shock since the N terminal
is tied to ground. However, the A+
terminal could cause an electric shock
if you connect yourself between it and
a battery terminal.
As a safeguard, we have added a
leakage-to-ground detector circuit
Fig.6 (right): the final circuit uses IC1
to drive Mosfets Q1 & Q2 via parallel
buffer stages . IC3-IC6 form the half
sinewave shaper circuit. It constantly
changes the feedback so that IC1
varies its PWM output to produce a
half sinewave shape.
JULY 2000 35
Fig.7: install the parts on the PC board and complete the wiring as shown here.
Fig.8: this diagram
shows the mounting details for
Mosfets Q1 & Q2.
Use your
multi-meter to
check that the
device tabs are
correctly isolated
from the case.
36 Silicon Chip
which will switch off the PWM
controller if the current between the
A+ terminal and one of the battery
terminals exceeds 224µA. Let’s see
how this circuit works.
As shown, the N terminal is tied to
ground via a 1kΩ resistor and a parallel 0.1µF capacitor which is used as
a filter. Normally, this terminal will
be at ground unless there is leakage
between the A+ terminal and ground
(or battery +). If there is leakage, the
voltage across the 1kΩ resistor rises
by 100mV for every 100µA of leakage
current.
This voltage is monitored by
the pin 1 input of IC1 which is the
non-inverting input to the second
error amplifier. The inverting input
at pin 2 is connected to a voltage
divider across the 5V reference and
sits at 224mV. If the voltage at pin 1
reaches this 224mV limit, the PWM
controller shuts down the high voltage step-up operation and limits the
current to 224µA.
Power
Power for the circuit is derived
from a 12V DC source (eg, a battery). This is applied to the ICs via
reverse-polarity protection diode D5
and to the centre tap of transformer
T1 via inductor L1. Two 4700µF capacitors decouple the supply for the
transformer and are bypassed with a
0.1µF capacitor.
Reverse polarity protection for the
Mosfets is provided by fuse F1. If the
supply is connected the wrong way
around, the internal drain-source protection diodes in the Mosfets conduct
heavily and the fuse blows before any
damage occurs.
Building it
The CFL Driver circuit is built on a
PC board coded 11107001 and measuring 143 x 112mm. This fits inside a
The PC board fits neatly into a standard metal diecast case which also serves as
a heatsink for Q1 and Q2. Be sure to use 240VAC-rated cable for the output lead
and make sure that this has been correctly terminated before applying power.
standard diecast case measuring 171
x 121 x 55mm. Alternatively, the PC
board could be fitted into a plastic
case with 6021-type flag heatsinks
(29.5 x 25 x 12.5mm) used for each
Mosfet. The PC board includes solder
mounting points for these heatsinks if
the diecast case is not used.
Begin construction by checking the
PC board for shorts between tracks and
for any breaks in the copper pattern.
Also, check to ensure that the hole
sizes are correct. You will need 1mm
holes for the transformer pins, diode
D5 and the zener diodes.
Next, check that the PC board fits
neatly into the case. The PC pattern
(Fig.11) shows the profile required.
In particular, the half-moon “cutouts”
(to clear the central mounting posts)
and the small rectangular cutouts (to
clear internal ribs) may need filing to
shape so that the board fits. It is also
necessary to round the corners of the
board as shown, to clear the corner
posts of the case.
Fig.7 shows the wiring details. Begin the PC board assembly by installing
the links and resistors. Table 2 shows
the resistor colour codes but you
should also use a digital multimeter
to check each value, just to be sure.
The ICs can be mounted next, taking care with their orientation. Make
sure also that each IC is placed in its
correct position.
Now for the capacitors. The electrolytic types are polarised and must
be oriented with the polarity shown.
The MKT and ceramic types usually
include a value code and these can
be deciphered using Table 1.
Table 1: Capacitor Codes
Value
IEC code
EIA code
0.1µF 100n 104
.039µF 39n 393
.001µF 1n0 102
560pF 560p 561
220pF 220p 221
Fig.9: here are the winding details for transformer T1. The secondary is wound on first, with
each successive layer covered with insulating tape. The primary is then bifilar wound (ie, two
wires at once) over the secondary.
JULY 2000 37
What’s Inside A Compact Fluorescent Lamp?
While CFLs are a throw away item
once the fluorescent tube has burnt
out, they have relatively complex
circuit, as shown in the photo and
Fig.10. This is a typical circuit for an
electronic ballast without the power
supply (ie, rectifier diodes, filter
capacitor, etc). The circuit operates
in two separate modes, one to start
the tube and the second mode for
normal running.
There are two Mosfets (Q1 & Q2),
transformer T1 and a number of
associated components which make
up an oscillator. The fluorescent tube
is driven via inductor L1 and winding
N1 of the transformer. T1 also drives
the gates of Q1 & Q2 via windings
N2 & N3 which are connected in
antiphase.
Tube starting
When power is first applied,
the .022µF capacitor connected
to Diac 1 charges via the 560kΩ
resistor. When the voltage reaches
about 30V, the Diac fires (breaks
down) and discharges the capacitor
voltage into the gate of Q2. Zener
diode ZD2 protects the gate from
over-voltage.
Mosfet Q2 is now switched on
and current flows from the positive
supply via the .047µF capacitor, the
fluorescent tube top filament, the
.0033µF capacitor, the second tube
filament, inductor L1 and transformer T1’s N1 winding. This current flow
in N1 then applies gate drive to Q1
via N2 and switches off gate drive
to Q2 via N3 due to the antiphase
connection of this winding.
If oscillation doesn’t occur, the
process starts all over again with
the .022µF capacitor charging again
to fire the Diac to turn on Q2. When
oscillation does occur, Mosfets Q1
and Q2 rapidly switch on and off in
alternate fashion. The frequency of
operation is set by the combined inductance of L1 and the N1 winding,
together with the .0033µF capacitor
across the tube.
The startup circuit comprising
the .022µF capacitor and the Diac
is now prevented from operating by
diode D1. This diode discharges the
38 Silicon Chip
Fig.10: typical circuit for a CFL electronic ballast, minus the power supply
components. It’s basically an oscillator circuit that operates in two different
modes – one for starting and the other for normal running.
.022µF capacitor every time Q2 is
switched on.
The oscillator current now flows
through the filaments of the fluorescent tube and allows the normal
mercury discharge to take place.
This means that the fluorescent tube
will light up. When this happens,
the .0033µF capacitor is effectively
shunted by the mercury discharge
and the voltage across the tube is
now at about 100V peak.
Normal running
The frequency of oscillation is
now determined by the properties
of the core used for transformer T1.
As the current builds up in winding
N1, the core begins to saturate.
When this happens, the flux in the
core stops changing and gate drive
to Q1 or Q2 ceases. The flux now
collapses to drive the opposite
Mosfet and this process continues
to maintain oscillation. The current
through the tube is limited by the
current at which T1’s core saturates
and by L1’s inductance.
The two 10Ω resistors, together
with zener diodes ZD1 & ZD2, limit
the gate drive to Q1 & Q2, while the
.0022µF capacitor at the cathode of
D1 forms a snubber network to suppress commutation in the opposing
Mosfet at switch on. This
considerably reduces
the switching losses
in each Mos
fet. The
330kΩ resistor in parallel with this capacitor
keeps diode D1 reverse
biased at start-up.
Finally, the .047µF
capacitor in series with
one of the tube filaments ensures that
the tube is driven by
AC. This prevents mercury migration to the
tube ends which would
cause black
ening and
shorten the tube life.
The diodes, zener diodes and
transistors can now all be installed,
followed by Mosfets Q1 & Q2. The
latter should be mounted at full lead
length, with only 1-2mm of each pin
protruding below the PC board to allow for soldering. This enables their
metal tabs to be bolted to the side of
the case later on.
Inductor L1 can now be wound and
installed. It comprises a 25-28mm
iron powdered toroid with 20 turns of
1mm enamelled copper wire wound
around it. The wiring diagram and
photographs show how it is wound.
Keep each turn tight around the toroid
and space the windings evenly.
Clean and tin the ends of the winding before mounting it on the PC
board. After mounting, the toroid is
secured using two plastic cable ties
which are fed through adjacent holes
in the PC board.
Winding the transformer
Fig.9 shows the winding details
for transformer T1. Begin by soldering one end of a 12-metre length of
0.25mm enamelled copper wire to
pin 4, then wind the turns on neatly
side-by-side. Wrap a layer of insulating tape around each layer as it is
completed before winding on the next
layer. After completing 200 turns,
terminate the wire at pin 7 and secure
the windings with another layer of
insulating tape.
The centre-tapped primary wind
ings are wound together (ie, bifilar)
Fig.11: check your PC board against this full-size etching pattern before
mounting any of the parts.
Table 2: Resistor Colour Codes
No.
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
4
1
4
2
1
1
2
2
1
2
Value
1MΩ
470kΩ
270kΩ
75kΩ
47kΩ
33kΩ
27kΩ
24kΩ
22kΩ
12kΩ
10kΩ
4.7kΩ
3.3kΩ
3kΩ
2.2kΩ
1kΩ
470Ω
10Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black green brown
yellow violet yellow brown
red violet yellow brown
violet green orange brown
yellow violet orange brown
orange orange orange brown
red violet orange brown
red yellow orange brown
red red orange brown
brown red orange brown
brown black orange brown
yellow violet red brown
orange orange red brown
orange black red brown
red red red brown
brown black red brown
yellow violet brown brown
brown black black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black yellow brown
yellow violet black orange brown
red violet black orange brown
violet green black red brown
yellow violet black red brown
orange orange black red brown
red violet black red brown
red yellow black red brown
red red black red brown
brown red black red brown
brown black black red brown
yellow violet black brown brown
orange orange black brown brown
orange black black brown brown
red red black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
yellow violet black black brown
brown black black gold brown
JULY 2000 39
Fig.12: this is the front panel, reproduced here two-thirds actual size. A full-size
reproduction can be obtained by scanning it at 150% on a flatbed scanner or by
enlarging it on a photostat machine.
using 1mm enamelled copper wire
terminated on pins 1 & 2 and finishing on pins 10 and 9 respectively,
as shown. Make sure that there are
6-turns for each winding. Finish with
a layer of insulating tape.
The transformer can now be completed by inserting each core half of
the transformer into the bobbin and
clamping them with clips or a 200mm
cable tie. This done, the transformer
can be mounted on the PC board with
pin 1 orientated as shown on Fig.7.
Finally, complete the board assembly by installing four PC stakes at the
supply input and A+ and N terminals.
Final assembly
Now for the final assembly. First,
temporarily fit the PC board into
the case and mark out the mounting
holes for Mosfets Q1 & Q2. This done,
remove the board and drill the holes
for these, taking care to remove any
metal swarf with an oversize drill.
You also need to drill holes in the
case ends for the input and output
cordgrip grommets and for the fuse
holder. A hole is also required in the
lid for the power switch.
The on/off switch
mounts on the
case lid, adjacent
to the 12V DC
supply cable
and the fuse. An
integral LED acts
as a power on/off
indicator.
40 Silicon Chip
Once all the holes have been
drilled, secure the PC board to the
corner pillars of the case using the
supplied screws. Note that a solder
lug must be placed under one of these
screws – this solders to an adjacent PC
stake and is used to earth the negative
supply rail to the case (see Fig.7).
The two Mosfets can now be bolted
to the side of the case. First, check
that the mounting areas are perfectly
smooth and free of metal swarf, then
mount each device using a TO-220
insu
lating kit as shown in Fig.8.
After each device is mounted, use a
multimeter to check that its metal tab
is electrically isolated from the case.
If the meter indicates a short, the
device will have to be removed and
the cause of the problem determined.
Finally, wire up the connections
to the fuse, switch and PC board as
shown using automotive wire for the
12V side and 240VAC rated cable
for the output. This 240VAC output
cable can then be connected into one
or more bayonet or ES lamp holders.
Make sure that the output cable is
actually connected to a socket, since
the wires should be treated as you
would any mains outlet. The voltage
produced could prove fatal if you are
careless enough to connect yourself
across the output leads while the unit
is running.
Testing
Before doing anything, check that
the output leads have been correctly
terminated. This done, connect a 12V
DC supply (rated at 1A or more) and
check that the switch LED lights when
the switch is “on”. If the LED doesn’t
light, check that you have installed
the 5A fuse in the fuseholder.
Now check the supply rails to the
ICs. There should be 11.5V on pin 12
of IC1, pin 1 of IC2, pin 8 of IC3 and
pin 16 of IC4, IC5 & IC6.
Next, carefully check the output
voltage across the PC stakes on the
board, using a multimeter set to
measure up to 340V DC. Assuming no
load is connected, the meter should
indicate a value close to 340V DC (not
240V) due to the storage effect of the
capacitors across the output.
For the final test, you will need a
12V lead-acid battery capable of supplying several amps. Plug in a load
such as a 15W 240V filament lamp or
CFL and check that the output voltage
SC
is now around 240V DC.
Vamtest Pty Ltd trading as MicroGram Computers ABN 60 003 062 100
If you’re a Muso, it’s pounds to
peanuts that you have a collection
of leads which need testing on a
regular basis. This is a bit of
chore if you use a multimeter
but it’s a snap with this handy
Musicians’ Lead Tester.
By JOHN CLARKE
EL Cheapo
Musicians' Lead Tester
L
ET’S FACE IT, the various audio leads owned by musos do
not have an easy life. Microphone and guitar leads are often
damaged in transit from one gig to
another or while setting up. They
can become intermittent and cause
nasty crackling noises in the sound or
heavily attenuate the signal level due
to shorts or breaks in the cable itself
or in the connectors.
Yes, you can check leads using a
multimeter; probing each terminal
to measure continuity from one end
to another and to check for possible
shorts. But you only have to do it a
few times to know that the results
are usually not very reliable. This is
because you are never sure whether
the multimeter probe has made good
contact or if it has shorted to an adjacent pin or to the shell of the plug.
There has to be an easier way.
Of course, commercial cable testers
are available. They usually comprise
an XLR (eXtension Line Return) panel
plug and panel socket plus 6.35mm
jack sockets in a small box. You just
plug the lead into the relevant sockets,
then an array of LEDs and pushbuttons
allow the cable to be tested. They
check for shorts and correct intercon42 Silicon Chip
nections and give you the result. Some
even tell where the break or short is in
the lead. Such testers are not cheap.
But our Musicians’ Lead Tester is
cheap. It should only take a couple
of hours to build and will save many
hours of frustration with leads. It indicates shorts, open circuits and how
the lead is connected. You can even
wobble the lead under test to verify
an intermittent connection.
And guess what? It is so cheap that
it does not have a PC board and only
a few components. Sadly, it won’t tell
you where the fault is in a bad cable
but what do you want? A cheap tester
or an expensive one? This one’s cheap.
The tester comprises an XLR panel
socket connected in parallel with a
stereo 6.35mm panel jack socket and
an XLR panel socket plug connected
in parallel with a stereo 6.35mm panel
jack socket. This will allow testing of
cables with XLR plug to XLR socket,
XLR plug to jack plug, XLR socket to
jack plug and jack to jack termina-
Parts List
1 plastic Jiffy box 158 x 95 x
53mm, or sealed ABS box 115
x 90 x 55mm
1 front panel label
1 metal shell XLR panel socket
1 metal shell XLR panel plug
2 stereo 6.35mm panel mount
jack sockets
1 single pole 12-position or 3-pole
4-position rotary switch (S1)
1 knob to suit S1
1 momentary pushbutton switch
(S2)
4 5mm high-brightness red LEDs
(LED1-LED4)
4 5mm LED bezels
4 1N4004 1A diodes (D1-D4)
4 1kΩ 0.25W resistors
1 9V battery
1 9V battery clip
4 M3 x 10mm screws and nuts
1 200mm length of green hookup
wire
1 200mm length of red hookup wire
1 200mm length of black hookup
wire
1 200mm length of blue hookup
wire
1 100mm length of 0.8mm tinned
copper wire
incorrect LED will light compared to
the switch selection.
Jack plug test
Fig.1: the circuit uses an XLR plug and socket pair, two jack sockets, two
switches and a number of LED indicators.
tions. Mono or stereo jack plugs are
catered for.
The circuit comprises four LEDs
which are used to test the four possible
connections in an XLR lead. These are
the shell (case) connection, the pin 1
earth (shield) and pins 2 & 3 signal
leads. The ground for the 6.35mm jack
socket connects to pin 1, the tip to pin
3 and the ring to pin 2.
A rotary switch (S1) selects each
of the four connections in turn and
the LEDs light according to the connection made. The circuit is powered
via a single 9V battery and there is a
1kΩ current limiting resistor for each
LED. A battery test switch (S2) lights
the four LEDs.
XLR to XLR test
In a good XLR-XLR lead, there will
be continuity between pin 1 on the
socket and pin 1 on the plug and so
LED2 will light up when switch S1
is in position 2. Similarly, a good pin
2 connection on the XLR lead will
allow LED4 to light when S1 is in
position 3. LED3 will light when S1
is in position 4.
LED1 may or may not light depending on whether the shell is connected.
If the shell is connected to the pin 1
shield, then both LED1 and LED2 will
light in positions 1 and 2 of switch S1.
Note that it is wise for microphone
leads to have the plug and socket shells
connected to pin 1 to ensure effective
shielding. However, some XLR leads
may not have the shell connected, to
prevent hum loops when connecting
from an earthed instrument to an amplifier which has XLR inputs.
A faulty lead will show some difference from the above LED conditions.
Shorts between pins will light up
more than one LED for selections of S1
and breaks will not light up any LED.
Transposed leads will be shown as the
Jack to XLR lead tests are trickier
since there are many variants in the
wiring for these. For a standard XLR
to stereo jack lead, LEDs 1, 2 & 4
should light for positions 2, 3 & 4 of
the switch. You may find that pins 2
& 3 are transposed which means that
the tip and ring terminals on the jack
plug connect to pins 2 & 3 respectively.
This still means that the lead is good.
Again, shorts are indicated with more
than one LED alight and breaks are
indicated with no LED alight. The
shell LED lights if connected to pin 1.
Mono jack to mono jack leads (guitar
lead) will show a short between pins 1
and pins 2, corresponding to the ring
connecting to ground.
Finally, XLR to mono leads will
need to be carefully interpreted. It is
common for the unused pin on the
XLR end to be connected to ground
(pin 1) to provide for an unbalanced
connection to a balanced input. This
means there may be a short shown
between pins 1 & 2 or between pins
1 & 3. For a good lead there will be a
connection between the tip and either
pin 3 or pin 2. To find this connection,
firstly push the jack plug into the socket fully to make contact with the tip.
If there is a connection between pin
3 and the tip then LED3 will light for
position 4 of the switch.
If the tip is connected to pin 2, you
will find that the tester shows a short
between all three connections since
the tip will be at ground and pin 2 will
be grounded via the ring connection
contacting the ground on the mono
jack. You will need to pull the jack
plug out one notch so that the tip of the
jack plug is contacting the ring contact
on the socket. The tester should then
show a connection between pins 2 and
tip without shorts between the other
terminals.
If you are uncertain about the indications from the tester, you can always
try a known good lead to check how
the tester performs and compare this
with the suspect lead.
Putting it together
We built our unit into a sealed ABS
box measuring 115 x 90 x 55mm. Alternatively, you could use a plastic Jiffy
box measuring 158 x 95 x 53mm. Use a
metal shell XLR panel socket and plug
JULY 2000 43
Fig.3: this is the full-size front panel artwork.
Fig.2: follow this
wiring diagram
to build your lead
tester. The photo
below shows the
finished unit.
Our prototype only used one stereo jack socket but you
can easily add a second socket if you wish.
44 Silicon Chip
and stereo 6.35mm panel mount jack sockets.
The rotary switch can be a 3-pole 4-position type or a
single pole 12-way type with the locking tab set so that it
only rotates through four positions. The LEDs can be general
purpose types but preferably high brightness, so that the
Tester can be used in bright light.
All the components mount on the lid with the exception
of the 9V battery. Use the front panel artwork as a guide to
placement of the components and drill out the holes required
for these. The cutouts for the XLR socket and plug can be
made by drilling a series of holes around the required cutout
perimeter and knocking this piece out. Then file to shape.
Mount each XLR and jack socket pair on either side of the
box lid. The LEDs are arranged above the rotary switch so
that the pointer on the knob indicates which LED is selected.
By the way, our prototype used only one jack socket but
the circuit shows two.
Cut the switch shaft to a suitable length for the knob and
attach the components to the box lid. Wire it all up according to the diagram of Fig.2. The anode lead for each LED is
soldered to a strip of tinned copper wire and this becomes
the positive connection for the battery clip lead. The cathode
ends of the LEDs connect to the shell, pin 1, pin 2 & pin 3 of
the XLR socket via 1kΩ resistors as shown.
Connect the anodes of diodes D1-D4 to the shell and to pin
1, pin 2 & pin 3 of the XLR socket. Now common the cathodes
and connect this point to switch S2. The other terminal of
S2 connects to the wiper of S1.
The battery can be held in place using a strap or clip on
the bottom of the case. Battery life should be extra long and
you can even use a “dead” battery from a smoke alarm, since
SC
the low voltage will not matter for this circuit.
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07-00
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
Big is not always beautiful
I had two Compaq computers to repair this
month, one of them proving quite expensive
to fix. At the more routine level, there is the
growing problem of how best to handle large
TV sets – in the home or in the workshop?
Both computers were brought in
by Mr Galvin. The first was a slightly
ancient 1996 Presario 4704 computer
(series PSB220C/3590 Pentium) that
was dead. The second was a 1998 Armada 1573D series 2920D notebook,
which looked as though it had a faulty
hard disk.
I started with the Presario PC, which
had a faulty power supply. Unfortunately, being a Compaq, a generic
power supply could not be fitted and
exchange units were not really a viable economic proposition. The only
option was to try to repair the existing
one. I removed and disassembled it on
the workshop bench.
When it was finally in pieces, the
major clue to its demise was plainly
visible, namely a large female cockroach, complete with egg sac, which
had managed to electrocute itself on
the track side of the board. Removing
the corpse and cleaning up its corrosion was probably all that was needed
(the mains fuse hadn’t blown) but I
also replaced all three of the small
electros (1µF to 4.7µF) on the supply
plugs. I also checked the high-value
resistors.
I didn’t want to refit the supply to
the computer only to find it was still
faulty, so I fitted a 12V 36W car globe
to the 5V rail as a dummy load and
turned on the power. The fan started
and the globe lit. Satisfied that all was
OK, I then refitted the unit and found
that the machine was now working
normally. So one set down and one
to go.
I now turned my attention to the
Armada 2920D notebook which was
fitted with an Intel Pentium 233MMX
54 Silicon Chip
microprocessor. Its problem was that
it wouldn’t boot up. Instead, it was
displaying a “1720 Intelli-Safe Hard
Drive Detects Imminent Failure” error
message, followed by a “Non-System
Disk or Disk Error” message.
The next problem was that the
computer belonged to Mr Gal
vin’s
son. This probably accounted for
its failure and also for the complete
loss of instruction books and utility
disks. However, all was not lost and
a few hours on the Compaq web site
produced a nearly complete set.
One of the utilities I downloaded
is a diagnostics program (PC Diagnostics). This reported no diagnostic
partition and a password protected
hard disk lock. The latter proved not
to be the case. A more precise message
was, “1799-08 failed cable test and
buffer compare”.
I then ran Fdisk and this said that
there was no partition. However, it
wouldn’t save the instructions when I
tried to create a new partition. Norton
Diagnostics found no problem but
Disk Doctor found “Invalid Signature
in Partition Table” and “Bootable Par-
Items Covered This Month
• Compaq Presario 4704 computer.
• Compaq Armada 1573D notebook.
• Panasonic TC29V26A TV set.
• Grundig ST70-75S TV set.
• Philips 33FL1880/75R Matchline
•
•
TV set.
AWA SC6341 (AS630) TV set.
Panasonic TC-29V50A MX-2A TV
set.
tition cannot be booted from”.
All the above seemed to indicate a
faulty hard disk but to confirm this, I
contacted Compaq Technical Support
who also thought it was a hard disk
problem. However, I decided to take
one more precaution – I took the notebook to a local computer specialist
and ask him to fix it. He also diagnosed a faulty hard drive and quoted
to replace the 3.2Gb IDE IBM hard
drive with a 6.4Gb IBM Travelstream
hard drive.
After getting the quote accepted by
Mr Galvin, the new hard disk drive
was ordered and duly fitted. But guess
what – we still had the same error
messages.
This meant that the fault had to be
on the motherboard, most probably
in the IDE controller section. Unfortunately, a new motherboard would
cost over $1200 and I was beginning
to feel that I was out of my depth.
After consulting Mr Galvin, we
agreed to take it to one of their official
agents and invest $50 in a quote. Not
surprisingly, the official diagnosis was
the system board but, fortunately, they
offered a repaired/exchange board
with a three-month warranty for only
$550 fitted. We agreed on this and a
few days later I picked up the repaired
computer and reinstalled the original
software. I tested it thoroughly but no
more problems were found.
I subsequently quizzed the service
department as to what had caused the
problem but I drew a blank. Because
it was an exchange unit, no one knew
the answers – perhaps Mr Galvin’s
son might.
Large TV sets
Now about those large TV sets – and
they are getting larger. Though I try
to look calm on the exterior, I always
panic inside when I agree to repair
a large TV set with what could be a
nasty problem in the home. By and
large it is much more sensible to take
the set to the workshop rather than
the workshop to the set.
However, the public perception
seems to be that all faults are simple
enough to be dealt with in the lounge
room. After all, it can’t be very serious,
they reason . . . the fuse, the on/off
switch or a bad connection. And bad
connections are easy to find; so easy
that some customers consider they
shouldn’t even have to pay for them!
It’s the same with VCRs. I had a
case recently when an ancient VCR
had come into the workshop because
it was chewing tapes. It was duly
fixed and the customer took it home.
Hours later I received an irate call
from the same individual who was
furious that I had ruined his VCR and
he wanted his money back. I tried to
calm him down and work out what
the problem was.
Very heatedly, he said that the set
was dead and nothing worked. This
was hard to believe, so I asked whether
the clock was working. “Intermittently”, was his response. Asked to
explain this, he came back with “well,
its on now, its off now, its on now, its
off now”.
It took 10 minutes of patient talking
before he learnt how to switch the
VCR on and set the clock . . . and he
had only owned the unit for 10 years!
Panasonic TC29V26A
But back to the present. There were
several large TV sets in the workshop
but at least these were in a controllable
environment (mine). The first off the
rank was a Panasonic TC29V26A, an
M16MV30 chassis. This 8-year old set
had had a tough life, lived near the sea
and was badly corroded.
The set came in dead, which turned
out to be a faulty horizontal output
transformer and horizontal output
transistor. This was a straightforward
routine type fault and the set was left
on test afterwards.
When Mr Rose called to pick it
up he asked whether I checked the
tuning – implying that he had mentioned it when he had brought it in.
Well, I didn’t recall that and I don’t
think he did. But, anyway, I hadn’t –
the set appeared to be working with
most stations. It didn’t occur to me
to check them all as I wasn’t aware
of any problem.
Of course, when I tried it out in front
of him, the problem confronted us.
The automatic search certainly tuned
in the stations but just wouldn’t stop
and be memorised.
Considering the corrosion of the
motherboard, it was a wonder the set
was working at all. In addition to the
usual 5V and 12V rails, the tuning
system required a 30V rail. These were
all available on the tuner/IF module
B. The tuning voltage was derived
from pin 46 of microprocessor IC1213
(MN1872432TW1) on the E board and
applied to Q1202. This then varied
the voltage applied to the tuning pin
of the tuner.
The IF from the tuner goes through
Q110, Q101 and Q105 to pins 20, 21
& 23 of IC101. The AFC output is at
pin 12 and feeds the tuner, as well as
the microprocessor (pin 10) via IC102
(pins 3 and 4) and Q102 (TP891).
The microprocessor detects, controls
and stores the data in the EEPROM
(IC1211). The problem was where to
start looking.
I reasoned that as the corrosion was
worst around the microprocessor,
I had only to check the tracks running to it and any small components
around it. The prime suspect was
diode D1203 from the AFC input
(pin 10) to 12V. As it happened, this
was a bullseye; substituting a new
1N4148 for the MA700 fixed the
prob
lem. From experience, I know
that Panasonic small diodes do not
like corrosion!
Dead Grundig
The next set was a dead Grundig
ST70-75S using a CUC 6360 chassis.
This, too, had a short circuit horizontal output transistor (BU508AG,
T568.)
Whenever I see a horizontal output
transistor that’s gone short circuit, the
question is “why did it fail”? In this
case, I felt sure that the horizontal
output transformer was to blame even
though it looked good. Most Grundig
transformers have a clear plastic outer
cover and when they fail they sometimes leave a dark colour or shade on
the inside. Unfortunately, there were
no such clues here.
The question was, should I risk
simply fitting another transistor or
should I also change the transformer at
the same time? I decided on the latter
course, as I didn’t want any recalls at
a later stage.
I duly ordered and fitted replacements for both, only to be disappointed by the immediate failure of the
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JULY 2000 55
new transistor (the manufacturers had
substituted a 2SD1884). I thought I
was into one of my usual messes when
I noticed C511, a blue rectangular 9nF
1600V capacitor in the collector circuit of the horizontal output transistor
(T568). This capacitor was no longer
perfectly shaped but had a bulge in it.
This value is not available off the shelf
and its part number is 8515-911-695.
Its replacement turned out to be a
green 9.5nF capacitor, which, I was
assured, is now the default value for
66cm versions of this chassis. Replacing it finally fixed the fault but left the
geometry needing a slight adjustment.
This is one of those irritating sets
that cannot be serviced without its
remote control. To get into the service
mode, one has to press I, select special
functions and dial 8500 to get into the
service adjustments.
Also, supposedly, one needs the
remote control to switch the set on
because I was informed that an “S”
56 Silicon Chip
connector on the motherboard had
been disconnected.
However, I couldn’t find this and
as the set was now working properly
and the customer had money in his
hands, I resisted the temptation to
take it further.
This reminded me of a small AWA
C3426 with a Daewoo chassis that
was also dead. After spending a lot of
time checking out the TV set, I found
out it was the remote control that was
the problem. The batteries had been
left in too long and corroded the PC
board tracks but only for the power
on/off and volume functions. Linking
the corroded tracks restored these two
functions and let me switch the set on.
Big Phil
Next were two large Philips TV sets,
one of which was a 33FL1880/75R
Matchline using an FL1.1-S AA
chassis. This 84cm set was a “top-ofthe-range” unit about eight years ago
but this one was nearly dead. All that
was showing were the mute, stereo
and power front panel displays and
these were all pulsating.
The service manual refers to code
99, and there is a sort of fault-finding
tree chart in Section 8. Following this,
I put the set into the Service Default
Mode by shorting S24 to S25 and
found test point TP56 was at 4V (“set
power on” should be 17.5V and “set
power off” should be 0V). There was
no 141V on TP57. I really wasn’t any
the wiser for all this and suspected
that I could diagnose this better by
using commonsense rather than their
error codes.
The set uses a SOPS or Self Oscillating Power Supply (the output voltage
is controlled by the frequency). I noticed that TP60 measured 18V and I
was getting a feeling that the problem
wasn’t in the power supply but probably in the horizontal output stage. This
84cm set actually uses two output
transistors in parallel and these are
designated ON4673A (or BU508AF).
One of them, Q7504, was a dead short.
Access to the underside of this set
is really difficult and in the end I decided that the best course would be
to unplug everything and pull it right
out. Muggins also decided it would
n’t be necessary to mark where each
lead should go back, as logic and the
service manual would easily sort this
out. That was a BIG mistake.
After many hours, I still couldn’t
work out where all the plugs went
back – especially the 26V supply to the
SCAVEM (Scan Velocity Modulation)
board on the neck of the tube. It was
only after Philips had very kindly sorted me out that I discovered that there
is an error in the service manual. In
fact, the lead is connected to 28V and
the two leads plug onto IL62 and IL63.
They also told me that the main
causes of failure of this transistor
are due to C2504 and C2523, which
are 8200pF and 470pF respectively. I
replaced both of these, reconnected
the board and switched on.
Everything now worked well except
that it was stuck in the service mode,
which gives a row of figures on the
screen. The manual states that to exit
this mode, you press the personal
preference button on the front panel
of the set. In reality, I found that this
would only happen if I switched the
set off using the remote control.
The second Philips set was a current
model 34PT5793/79R A8.0A AA, still under warranty. Its
problem was a bright uncontrollable white raster before
the set cut out.
I measured the cathode voltages on the tube but found
nothing. I could see that R3840, which supplies 200V to
IC7830, was badly burnt. I then checked IC7830 to find
that it was totally short circuit. The circuit diagram had
it marked as a TDA6103 but the spare parts list had it as
TDA6107Q; the same as was fitted in the set.
I ordered a new IC and fitted it along with a new 100Ω
resistor, which was all that was needed to restore the
picture. I suspect that the IC failure may have been due
to a CRT flashover.
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AWA stereo TV set
Mr Staples wanted a house call to his 15-year old AWA
SC6341 (AS630) TV set. This is a large stereo console lowboy and his complaint was that the “sound was unclear”.
I don’t know how I was persuaded to attend such an old
set but there I was in his dark and dingy sitting room
with the set, plus his VCR and a book rack of cassettes
on top, while Mr and Mrs Staples were having a meal
and watching me.
The “sound unclear” was actually a distorted left
channel. Access to the back of the set was appalling and
access to the boards inside the set wasn’t much better. It
would mean lying full length on the floor to work on it. I
reasoned that, as it was only one channel, it was probably
the sound output IC or preamplifier – I would order one
and return later.
This was an overconfident assumption on my part
because on the next visit, after I had replaced IC3A2
AN7158N and IC3P0 M515236, it still had the fault. Using
an audio probe, I eventually traced the problem back to
the TDA3800G stereo decoder (IC302).
Replacing this didn’t fix the fault either. It was then
that I remembered fixing the same model some years ago
for the same fault. In that case, the problem was that the
three subminiature pots that are used to set up the stereo
decoder were badly corroded. Replacing them is the easy
part but aligning them in the home without the correct
equipment (a stereo generator, etc) is just too difficult.
I offered the Staples a short-term partial solution – just
turn the balance control to the right, which would mute the
distorting left channel. This would have been fine except
for the even more ancient National NV450 VCR connected
to it. Being mono, the left and right channels were both
muted. Not being a quitter, I suggested connecting the
VCR via the AV leads and settle for dual-mono.
However, for some unknown reason, the audio output
of the VCR was much lower than that required by the TV
set and the result was still unsatisfactory – besides which,
they had lost the VCR remote control and wouldn’t be
able to change the channels while they ate their meals.
Mr Staples was clearly totally unimpressed with my
efforts and claimed that I had made the set worse. I was
finally shown the door and the last I heard was they
bought a new TV set. I only wish that they had done this
before calling me.
set – a Mitsubishi 2SC6343 AS631 with lack of height,
rolling when cold, and a white vertical bar on the lefthand
side. I was, I was told, the first technician to attend this
set in 15 years, which says a lot for Mitsubishi.
After spending an uncomfortable half-hour resoldering
suspect joints, I concluded that the problems were probably due to dried out electrolytics on the motherboard and
possibly in the power supply. Unfortunately, I didn’t have
my ESR meter with me so I decided to measure all the
supply rails in the set and compare them with the circuit.
Everything measured OK until I reached the 14V rail
input to Q552, which was very low. Replacing C562
(100µF EXR 35) fixed all three symptoms at once, except
for a touch of poor linearity and top retrace lines. This
turned out to be a very sick C454 (10µF EXR 100) in the
vertical output stage.
I really should stop repairing sets that are over 10 years
old. They always lead to trouble.
Another ancient set
Another house call
Not to be outdone, fate determined that stupidity would
rule the day. I accepted another call for another ancient
Another house call was initiated by a Mrs Hayes. She
wanted me to fix her dead Panasonic TC-29V50A MX-2A
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TV set in her home. I was envisaging
all sorts of major problems like horizontal output transformers or worse,
blown switchmode power supplies.
Some of the modern power supplies
these days are fairly complicated and
difficult to diagnose.
Fortunately, this circuit was reasonably straightforward and conventional, using an optocoupler feedback
between the hot and cold sides of the
chopper transformer to control the
output and standby/on positions.
There was voltage on the primary
side but only a little on the secondary
side and the standby LED was off.
Further checks showed that the cathode of D808 was at 15V but there was
nothing on the emitter of Q802 due to
R833 22Ω being open circuit.
At this point, I had a quick interlude for a prayer – please, please, let
this be the only fault in the set. My
prayers were answered; replacing the
resistor restored all the functions on
the set. Sometimes a faulty Q802 can
be the cause of the resistor failing and
sometimes the whole circuit can be
destroyed. I was lucky this time.
Well, almost. The set was sitting
Fig.1: part of the power supply circuitry in the
Panasonic TC-29V50A. The chopper transformer is
at left, with the optocoupler immediately below it.
58 Silicon Chip
on a very attractive stand with a
companion Panasonic hifi VCR on
lovely polished
floorboards. When
I had rotated the
set to get access
to the back, I had
needed to lift the
corner of a mat to
allow the castors to roll
past. And of course, I had to do the
same when putting it back into its
normal position.
Unfortunately, as I was putting
it back, the castor caught the edge
of the mat and required just a tiny,
tiny shove to push it free. But when
I did this, the whole stand suddenly
collapsed like a deck of cards and
the 50kg TV set landed right on top
of me.
I was in shock – I thought an earthquake had occurred. I just couldn’t
believe it; I hadn’t pushed the stand
very hard and it had collapsed right
on top of me. The noise was also deafening in the otherwise quiet house
and it certainly attracted Mrs Hayes’
attention.
Fortunately there was no real
damage; I had taken the weight of
the TV set which was unmarked by
the incident.
When I started to reassemble the
stand, it quickly became obvious why
it had collapsed. It is held together by
plastic studs and some of these were
missing while others had broken.
The whole thing was just holding
together. It was fine if left untouched
but if pushed laterally, it all came
tumbling down.
I was a little bruised and my ego
was somewhat dented by the need to
explain all this to the astonished Mrs
Hayes. But really it wasn’t my fault –
there was no way of telling how poorly
the stand was constructed.
Anyway, I managed to get it all back
together and it still worked properly.
SC
So maybe I was lucky after all.
MAILBAG
Monkeys in charge
of the kingdom
I would like to bring your readers’ attention to an appalling state
of affairs in our industry. How
would most of the service people
and hobbyists respond to the fact
that most if not all are practising
electronics outside the law, in
Queensland anyway?
You see in Queensland we have
a statutory authority called “The
Electrical Workers Board”. This
official sounding group is the
body which determines who can
and cannot do electrical work in
this state (each state has a similar
body). “Fine” you say, “We don’t
do electrical work”. But you do!
You repair equipment and some
(many) even make kits. Now this
solely industry-protecting monopoly will gladly tell you that this is
electrical work and is solely the
realm of qualified electrical workers (electricians) and they are fully
intent on prosecuting anyone who
breaches their rules.
I, for one, am a holder of one
of their restricted licences which
allows me to legally repair the
power cord on a mains-powered
item. Sounds good. Well, I can’t
build a kit legally, certainly not
one with a mains outlet (such
as a light chaser). I have been a
TAFE-qualified technical officer
for 14 years and I have a BOCP
which is a federal licence to work
on broadcast equipment, including
the no-break power supplies, but
I can’t build a kit within the law.
It is about time our industry
started to lobby our governments
to put pressure on these people. It
is a fact that as far as knowledge
of electricity is concerned, electricians live at the bottom of the
food chain! Yet through what is
arguably one of the most powerful
unions in this country they have
our lawmakers bluffed.
There is even an advert on TV
up here about electrical safety
that says if you spill something
in your TV, turn it off and call an
electrician! If this is not brought
back to some state of sanity, it
will not be long before you need
to be a licensed electrician to start
your car!
All the while if you take a large
pay cut and have half your brain removed, you can drag cable around
a cottage for four years and become
a member of this elite club – it’s
an electrical apprenticeship! You
might say that I am being too harsh
but I have had to repair too many
devices to mention, that were left
in a state so poor by one of these
masters of electricity as to require
rewiring (yes, I broke the law).
The general exemption thought
to be enjoyed by electrical engineers only covers work done in
the course of your practice as an
engineer – you can’t build a kit
legally either!
“What field do I work in?” Answer: Medical Electronics. Our
standards of electrical safety far
exceed that of a normal electrical
installation.
I hope you will investigate this
and maybe we could start some
sane discussion in our industry.
Please do not publish my name or
I may lose my licence.
Name supplied and
withheld at request.
Comment: this is yet another case
of over government by people who
have no idea of what unintended
impact their regulations will have.
While quite a few electricians do
have some knowledge of electronics, it is fair to say that most would
not be able to build the average
project described in this magazine,
let alone repair any electronic
appliance.
Hot wire cutter
works well
The article on the hot wire cutter
by Leo Simpson in the April 2000
edition was excellent.
Several months ago we needed
a small foam cutter. After many
hours of searching the WWW (not
much info found) I decided to
have a try at making one myself.
Using the Dick Smith Electronics
resistance wire I experimented to
find the right current to get the
wire to the correct temperature
(about 2.5A).
The resulting cutter gets used
almost daily and the pieces of foam
that it has cut have been sent to all
corners of the globe. After reading
the April 2000 article on the GlowPlug Driver circuit, I will build one
of these to control the current. At
the moment I am using a 12V 4A
supply with a couple of 1Ω 10W
resistors to achieve the correct
series resistance.
Gareth Hassall,
Quest Electronic Developments
Pty Ltd.
Class A amplifier has
excellent sound
I’ve just recently built your Class
A amplifier design from the July &
August 1998 issues. It’s excellent
– I’ve never heard an ampli
fier
this good.
I immediately noticed a big improvement in the sound compared
to my previous amplifier. It has
a more transpar
ent sound with
substantially better bass, in part
I suspect to the regulated power
supply and partly due to less masking of the bass frequencies from the
smoother high frequencies. A top
design – well done guys.
The whole project cost me about
$400 in the end but I hate to think
how much a commercial amplifier
of this quality would cost.
David Snoswell,
Adelaide.
JULY 2000 59
Li’l
PowerHouse
Since preparing the first article for the Li’l
PowerHouse we could not let well enough
alone. Having seen how good this little
switchmode power supply is, we could not
avoid the temptation to improve it and so it
now has even better regulation, and better
residual hum and noise. How did we do it?
Read on.
By PETER SMITH & LEO SIMPSON
As with any high-performance circuit, half the magic is in the “core”
ICs and most of the rest lies in the PC
board layout and associated wiring.
And so it is with the Li’l PowerHouse.
Having produced the prototype, confirmed that it all worked and prepared
the first article for publication, somebody (who shall remain nameless)
realised that there were a few tweaks
that could be done to the circuit board
and output filter network. Could the
changes be made?
Chief bean counter/publisher: “No!
You’ve already changed the PC board
60 Silicon Chip
from the one that’s shown in the first
article”.
Nameless one: “But it’ll be much
better!”
CBC & P: “No, you’re talking about
a new PC board, a complete rewire,
more photography, egg on collective
editorial faces, pushing the deadlines...”
Nameless one: “But I’ll work evenings, weekends, come in early in the
mornings, make your morning tea...”
CBC & P: “You’re on!”
And it came to pass. The new PC
board looks vaguely similar to the one
Part 2
shown on page 61 of the June 2000
issue but in many respects it has been
a complete revamp. As often happens,
you change one aspect, which leads
to another few changes and before
you know it the PC board is looking
radically different.
Not only has the copper track layout for much of the PC board been
changed, the output filter network
is now quite different. The second
toroid filter now has two windings on
the same core but we have managed
to do without one 470µF 63VW filter
capacitor and that is a worthwhile
saving. Why didn’t we do it this way
the first time?
Answer: we’re not perfect . . . yet.
Amended circuit
Fig.5 shows the portion of the
circuit which has been changed to
incorporate the 2-winding version
of toroid L2. These two windings are
phased so that flux developed by L2a
is cancelled by the flux developed in
Despite the relatively minor
circuit changes, the final PC
board assembly differs quite
markedly from the prototype
shown last month.
Please note: Some constructors have not
been able to calibrate the current reading
successfully, finding that the current reading is too high and cannot be adjusted
low enough with VR2. If you encounter
this problem, try reducing the value of the
15kΩ resistor connected to pin 2 of IC2.
We suggest a value of 7.5kΩ.
L2b. This effectively cancels the DC
component of the flux and prevents
core saturation.
The two inductors on the one core
effectively filter any common mode
signals.
Apart from this change, the circuit
is otherwise identical to that published last month but the changed
circuit board has also led to significant
performance improvements.
mounting holes which mate up with
three of the integral pillars in the base.
Fig.6 shows the complete wiring
diagram and includes the component
overlay for the PC board.
Begin by checking the PC board
for any etching defects and undrilled
holes. If everything is OK, start by
installing the PC stakes at all external
wiring points. You will need 21 PC
stakes, not 22 as listed last month.
Note that the stakes should be a tight
fit into their respective holes, before
they are soldered. It is no use having
PC stakes which fit loosely as they
will tend to come away from the PC
board when you attempt to solder
wires to them.
Next, install the resistors and wire
links. Table 1 shows all the resistor
values and their respective colour
codes but you should also use your
Building the Li’l PowerHouse
The Li’l PowerHouse was built into
a folded metal case measuring 200
x 162 x 67mm. Alternatively, it can
be built into a standard plastic case
measuring 200 x 155 x 65mm, with
metal front and rear panels. All the
circuitry, apart from the front panel
components and the digital panel
meter, is mounted on a PC board
measuring 126 x 113mm and coded
04106001.
If you are using the plastic case, you
will find that the PC board has corner
Fig.5: this diagram shows the amended output filter circuit. The main
change involves the second toroid filter which now has two windings on
its core instead of one. These winding effectively filter any common mode
signals and together prevent core saturation.
JULY 2000 61
Fig.6: install the parts on the PC board and complete the wiring
exactly as shown here. Be sure to use 250VAC-rated cable for all
mains wiring and sleeve all exposed terminals with heatshrink
tubing to avoid the possibility of accidental contact. Note that the
earthing details differ from the arrangement shown here if you
use are using a plastic case with metal front & rear panels – see
text.
62 Silicon Chip
multimeter to check each value before
it is installed.
Resistor R1, the current sensing
resistor, is a length of 0.4mm enamelled copper wire, installed as shown.
Make sure you tin each end of the
wire (scrape off the enamel at each
end first) before soldering it to the PC
board. By the way, don’t use anything
other than 0.4mm enamelled copper
wire for this job, otherwise you may
have trouble calibrating the supply
later on.
Note also that the 680Ω 5W resistor should be mounted with its
body about 2mm above the PC board
because it will get quite hot when
the supply is set to deliver close to
40V DC.
Next, install the ICs, the diodes and
zener diode, REF1 and the trimpots.
Solder only the two outside pins
of IC1 at this stage (do not trim the
leads) so it can be easily adjusted to
line up with the mounting hole in the
rear panel.
Note that while we have specified
the 1A LM2575HVT-Adj device, you
may be supplied with the higher-rated
LM2576HVT-Adj which will work just
as well (and also has the advantage of
being a little more rugged).
Make sure that the ICs and diodes
are correctly oriented and be sure to
use the correct device at each location
on the board. IC sockets are optional
(we used two as part of our prototype
testing). Zener diode ZD1 should be
mounted with a small loop at one end
to provide thermal stress relief.
The capacitors can be installed next
and make sure that all the electrolytics
are installed the right way around
otherwise there could be pyrotechnics
when you first turn it on.
Winding the inductors
Both the inductors were specified
as prewound types in the parts list
in last month’s issue but we include
the details here for those who want
to make them.
To make L1 you will need to tightly
wind 60 turns of 21 B&S (0.71mm)
enamelled copper wire onto a Neosid
33mm diameter powered iron toroid
(Neosid 17-742-22; Altronics L-5120).
The turns are made side by side – do
not overlap. A total of 210cm of wire
is required. Scrape the enamel off the
ends of the winding, tin them with
solder and then solder the inductor
into the PC board.
Fig.7: the winding details for
inductor L2. Two windings are
required, each consisting of
13 turns of 22 B&S (0.63mm)
enamelled copper wire.
Once it is soldered in place, the
toroid can be secured to the PC board
with two ‘blobs’ of hot-melt glue or
non-corrosive silicone sealant.
For L2, two windings are required.
Each winding is 13 turns of 22 B&S
(0.63mm) enamelled copper wire
wound tightly onto a 14.8mm Neosid
powered iron toroid (Neosid 17-73222; Altronics L-5110). Again, the
turns are made side by side – do not
overlap. Two 40cm lengths of wire
are required and they must be wound
exactly as shown in Fig.7 to ensure
correct phasing.
Case preparation
If you have purchased a kit with a
pre-punched case and silk-screened
front panel, you don’t need to worry
about these next few steps. But if you
are starting with a plastic instrument
case with blank metal front and rear
panels, you have some work ahead
of you.
For a start, some of the integral
pillars on the base of the case must be
removed in order to accommodate the
PC board. To do this, first sit the board
in the base, against the back panel, and
use a felt-tipped pen to mark three
mounting pillars (ie, the three directly
beneath the board mounting holes).
This done, remove the PC board and
remove all the unused pillars using an
oversize drill. Note that you will also
need to remove any pillars which will
be underneath the transformer when
it is mounted.
Next, the various holes and cutouts
in the front and rear panels need to be
made. A hole needs to be drilled in
each panel to mount an earth lug with
a screw, nut and star washer (note: use
a countersunk dress screw if the front
panel is supplied screen printed).
Choose a convenient point on the
far lefthand side of the front panel
for a common earth point and drill
for a 3mm countersunk bolt. Drill a
second 3mm hole in the rear panel
in a roughly complementary position
and run a length of wire from there to
the common earth point on the front
panel. Secure all four earth lugs to
this point.
The front panel label can now be
fitted and used as a drilling template
for the various holes. It’s always best
to drill small pilot holes first and then
carefully enlarge them to size using a
tapered reamer. The square cutouts for
the LCD panel meter and for switch
S1 can be made by first drilling a series of small holes around the inside
perimeter of the marked areas, then
knocking out the centre pieces and
filing each cutout to shape.
Both the switch and panel meter
clip into place with their integral
retaining lugs.
On the rear panel, you will need to
drill holes to accept the mains fuse
(F1), the cordgrip grommet and three
solder lugs. Refer to the photos for the
locations of these holes. In addition,
Fig.8: the mounting details for IC1. Its metal tab must be
electrically isolated from the metal case using an insulating
pad and bush.
JULY 2000 63
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
No.
3
6
1
1
1
1
2
1
1
2
Value
1MΩ
100kΩ
27kΩ
15kΩ
4.7kΩ
1.5kΩ
1kΩ
470Ω
300Ω
100Ω
you will also have to drill a mounting
hole for IC1.
The location of this mounting hole
can be determined by fitting the PC
board inside the case and sliding the
rear panel into position. Mark out and
drill the hole, then carefully deburr
it using an oversize drill so that the
surface is perfectly smooth. Finally,
refit the rear panel and adjust IC1 as
necessary before soldering its three
remaining pins to the PC board.
Fig.8 shows how IC1 is isolated
from the rear panel using a mica washer and insulating bush. Smear all surfaces with heatsink compound before
bolting the assembly together (note:
heatsink compound is unnecessary if
you use a silicone impregnated wash
er). Finally, check that the metal tab
of IC1 is indeed isolated from the rear
panel using a multimeter switched to
a low ohms range.
Note that the legs of IC1 should not
be under any stress when it is finally
bolted into position.
The PC board assembly can now be
attached to the base of the case and
the hardware items mounted on the
front and rear panels. Before mounting the potentiometers, cut the shafts
to a length to suit the knobs. Note that
we have installed a 10-turn pot for the
Voltage Adjust control (VR1) in our
prototype but this is an optional feature. It is worthwhile having though.
Final wiring
Fig.6 also shows the wiring details.
Begin this work by stripping back the
outer insulation of the mains cord by
170mm, so that the leads can reach
the mains switch (S1) on the front
panel. This done, push the mains cord
through its entry hole and clamp it
64 Silicon Chip
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black green brown
brown black yellow brown
red violet orange brown
brown green orange brown
yellow violet red brown
brown green red brown
brown black red brown
yellow violet brown brown
orange black brown brown
brown black brown brown
securely to the rear panel using the
cordgrip grommet.
The Neutral (blue) mains lead goes
directly to switch S1, while the Active
(brown) lead goes to S1 via the fuse.
Slide some heatshrink tubing over
the leads before soldering the connec
tions. After the connections have been
made, the tubing is shrunk over the
switch contacts and fuse to prevent
accidental contact with the mains.
Our prototype was built into a
folded metal case and the earthing
details are as shown in Fig.6 and
the photos. We chose a point just in
front of the power transformer. Use a
3mm bolt and star washers to secure
the three earth lugs as per the wiring
diagram. Make sure that you scrape
away the paint from underneath these
lugs and from under the transformer
mounting bolts, to ensure a good earth
connection.
If you are using a plastic case with
metal front and rear panels, the earthing details are different. In this case,
the green/yellow striped lead from
the mains cord connects directly to
an earth lug terminal which must be
securely bolted to the front panel.
Additional green/yellow earth wires
are then run from the front panel earth
to the rear panel and from the front
panel to the power transformer frame.
Important: if the aluminium panels
are anodised, you will need to scrape
away the anodising from around the
earth lug holes to ensure good electrical contact.
All switches and pots are wired
with light duty (1.5A or less) hook-up
wire. Load switch S2 and transformer
T1 should be wired with medium
duty (5A or more) hook-up wire. The
0.33µF capacitor at the output is wired
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black yellow brown
brown black black orange brown
red violet black red brown
brown green black red brown
yellow violet black brown brown
brown green black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
yellow violet black black brown
orange black black black brown
brown black black black brown
directly across the backs of the output
terminals (see Fig.6).
The connections to the digital panel
meter are made using a 13-way SIL
connector and ribbon cable. You can
cut down a larger socket strip or glue
two smaller ones together.
Note that the two wires running
from pot VR1 to the rear of the board
near IC1 are twisted and routed along
the bottom of the case, hard up against
the side (see photos). The idea here is
to reduce noise pickup from inductor
L1 as much as possible while minimising wire length.
In addition, use several plastic
cable ties to lace the mains wires
together. This is an important safety
measure as it prevents any wire that
may come adrift from making accidental contact with any part of the
metalwork or vulnerable low-voltage
circuitry.
Be warned that the wiring to pushbutton switch S4 (Set Current) may
present a few problems if the switch
specified in the parts list is not used.
This is because some momentary
pushbutton switches have their
common (C) terminals in the middle
and their normally open (NO) and
normally closed (NC) contacts on the
outside, whereas the switch we used
has its common terminals at one end.
If your switch has its common
terminals in the middle, the wiring
shown in Fig.6 will no longer be
relevant and you will have to work
out the connections from the circuit
diagram published last month (Fig.4).
The common, NO and NC terminals
will usually be marked somewhere
on the body of the switch.
Note that the wire connecting the
pole of S4b to the PC board (and to
Keep all wiring neat and tidy and use plastic cable ties to bind the mains wiring.
Note that a separate earth lead must be run to the transformer frame if you are
using a plastic case, rather than the metal case shown here.
the 100kΩ resistor at pin 2 of IC4)
should be omitted at this stage. It will
be connected later.
Testing
Before applying power, carefully
check your work for any wiring errors.
This done, wind VR1 fully anticlockwise and set VR2, VR3, VR4 and VR5
to their centre positions.
Switch on the supply and check
that the voltage across ZD1 is about
5.1V. If so, check the reading on the
digital display. It should show about
.000 for both positions of S3, the meter
switch. Now adjust VR5 for a reading
of exactly .000 on the panel meter.
If everything is OK at this stage,
you can check the supply voltages
to each IC. Connect your multimeter
negative lead to the cathode of ZD1
and check the voltage at pin 7 of IC2
and IC4, pin 8 of IC3 and pin 8 of IC5.
These should all be at +5.1V. Pin 4 of
IC2 should be at about -5V.
If at any stage the voltages are incorrect, switch off immediately and correct the problem before proceeding.
Voltage calibration
Now turn off the supply and connect the missing wire from the pole of
switch S4b to the PC board. This done,
set the meter switch to the Volts position, turn the power supply on again
and check that the output voltage is
adjustable from 1.23V up to about 42V
(depending on the mains voltage at
your location).
Connect a digital multimeter to the
output terminals and with no load
connected, set the Load switch (2)
on. Now set the output voltage to read
39V on the digital multimeter (DMM)
using the Voltage Adjust control VR1.
Connect your DMM between pin 6
of IC4 (marked TP1 on Fig.6) and 0V
(marked GND) and set the DMM to
read millivolts.
Adjust VR4 for a reading of 390mV
on the DMM. Check the reading on the
digital panel meter. If it is not 39.0,
JULY 2000 65
Photo A: taken at an output of 12V and 160mA, this scope
photo shows the high frequency ripple of about 2mV peak
to peak. Note that the ripple and noise is now about 10
times better than we specified last month.
Photo C: taken with the same output settings as photo A,
the scope timebase has now been switched down to 5ms/
div to show the 100Hz ripple. This time the noise on the
waveform is the residual 52kHz ripple shown in photo B.
Photo B: taken at an output of 12V and just over 1A, this
scope photo shows that the high-frequency ripple is not
much higher than for the lower current condition and is
3mV peak to peak. The noise on the waveform is actually
jitter caused by superimposed 100Hz ripple.
Photo D: again taken with an output setting of 12V and 1A,
these scope waveforms demonstrate the switchmode and
filter operation. The top trace is taken from the input to L1
while the lower is the waveform at the input to L2. After
passing through L2 the waveform becomes the same as
shown in photo B.
adjust the trimpot at the rear of the
DPM for the correct reading.
Current calibration
Rotate the Current Limit pot (VR2)
fully clockwise and set the meter
switch (S3) to the Current position.
Now connect a 4.7Ω 5W resistor
across the output terminals, set the
Load switch (S2) on and connect your
DMM across the 4.7Ω resistor. Power
up and adjust the output voltage to
read 4.7V on the DMM using the
Voltage Adjust control (VR1).
Adjust trimpot VR3 for a reading
of 1.000A on the DPM. Note that the
66 Silicon Chip
4.7Ω resistor will get very hot during
this procedure – don’t burn yourself
or singe your dining room table!
Note: the DPM will read somewhere
around .010 with no load connected.
This is normal and is the result of
the input offset of op amp IC2. This
offset also results in a small difference
between the current set reading and
the actual current limit value although
in most circumstances this small error
should be of not consequence.
Switch off the Load switch and
press the Current set switch and check
that the display reading can be varied
from .010 up to at least 1.100A by
adjusting the Current Limit control.
Note that the overload LED may
light when the control is fully anti
clock
wise. This is normal and the
LED will extinguish when the current
limit reaches about 10mA (0.01 on
the display).
Check the current limiting
The current limiting feature should
now be checked for correct operation.
To do this, leave the 4.7Ω resistor in
circuit and switch on the Load switch.
Rotate the Current Limit control anticlockwise until the overload LED
lights. This should initially occur at
These digital scope plots show the same waveforms as in photo D. Note
the remnant switching spikes in the lower trace. These are completely
removed by the second stage of filtering in L2.
Fig.10: this full-size artwork can be
used as a drilling template for the
front panel. The cutouts can be made
by drilling a series of small holes and
knocking out the centre piece.
Fig.9: this is the full-size etching pattern for the PC board.
can observe the output ripple and
noise. Right; it’s all finished and set
to use.
1A but you should now be able to set
lower current limits by further reducing the control setting. The power
supply will “squeal” during current
Footnote: kits for this project will be
available shortly from Altronics in Perth.
You can order on their toll-free number
SC
1800 999007.
limiting but this is quite normal.
Finally, you can check the power
supply on various loads and if you
have access to an oscilloscope, you
JULY 2000 67
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safety lights
CALL OR E-MAIL ”BRANKO” VERY COMPETITIVE PRICES Made in Japan:
(ZA0031) 4 for $5
ICS
NICS
FOR
CTRON
ECTRO MORE DETAILS ON THESE AND MORE KITS SEE OUR WEB SITE
Y EL68 S
Y ELE
ilicon Chip
OATLE www.oatleyelectronics.com
OATLE
Orders: Ph ( 02 ) 9584 3563 or 64, Fax 9584 3561, sales<at>oatleyelectronics.com, PO Box 89 Oatley NSW 2223
major cards with ph. & fax orders, Post & Pack typically $6 Prices subject to change without notice ACN 068 740 081 ABN18068 740 081
BARGAIN CORNER
PCB DESIGN AND PRODUCTION SERVICE
S
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ELECT
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ELECT
ICS
WEIGH
STATION
TRANSDUCERS:
CTRON
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ELECT
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ELECT
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ELECT
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AMBIENT TEMPERATURE CONTROLLER KIT:
Use this kit as an electric hot water bottle, an
aquarium heater, incubator, beer brew heater,
heater for your pets' "pad" etc. Features LED
indicators, adjustable temperature, approximately
0.5 degree hysteresis and a 30W heater. The
mosfet included is used as the heater. Requires
12V AC or DC supply <at> approximately 2.5A. Kit
uses 3 new recovered surplus parts which makes
possible the bargain price. Kit includes PCB and
all on-board components,
mosfet, thermistor and a
suitable box: (K145)
$18 (a suitable surplus
mains transformer is
available for $9 extra mains wiring experience
necessary).
gauge transducers are all made
by Transducers
Inc. (USA).
ICS
CTRON
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OATLEAll are brand new but may be
slightly soiled around the
mounting
ICSscrew sockets:
CTRON
Y ELE
(ZA0008)
OATLE
Model # U62H-1K-10P1: 2mV/V <at> 1,000LBs,
approx N90mm
dia. 110mm long. Approx. 2.8Kg:
ICS
CTRO
$89
Y ELE each (1 only)
E
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Model # U42-5K-10P1: 2mV/V <at> 5,000LBs,
approx. IC90mm
dia. 140mm long. Approx. 3Kg:
S
CTRON
$99
Y ELE each (1 only)
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Model # U42-50K-10P1: 3mV/V <at> 50,000LBs,
approx. 170mm
dia. 280mm long. Approx. 20Kg:
ICS
CTRON
$165
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OATLEModel # U42-100K-10P1: 3mV/V <at> 100,000LBs,
approx. 170mm dia. 280mm long. Approx. 20Kg:
S
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$199
IR TESTER KIT:
CTeach
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OATLE
This simple kit can be used to test remote
200A R/C MODEL SPEED CONTROLLER KIT: controls. If the remote control is
S
IC designed to work direct from a standard operating, the LED on the tester will
This
RONis
CTkit
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OATLE1-2ms pulse from a radio control receiver to flash. Circuit is based around
control an electric motor in one direction only. our HC312 IR Receiver
ICS
Features
CTRON inc. brake. Kit inc. PCB and all on-board Module & operates from
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OATLEcomponents including 5 high power MOSFETs a 9V battery (not supplied).
Kit is supplied with PCB
and a small (26 x 64 x 38mm) case: (K152) $35
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and all on-board components
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+ a surplus case, label & battery holder: (K125) $8
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CTRON
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C
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240V
Limited quantity. These
Sunon Brand
fans are
ICS
CTRON
brand
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OATLE
from 240V AC <at> 0.125A.
They measure
120 x 120 x
ONICS
38mm:
LECTR
E
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OATL (MF2) $14 each or 3 for $35
OATLE
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CTRON
PC
Y ELE CONTROLLED
OATLEDISPLAY KIT:
MOVING MESSAGE LED
Ref: SC Feb. 97. 336 LED's and control circuitry
ONICS (413 x 110mm) solder masked / silk
onELEaCTRlarge
Y
OATLEscreened / through-hole plated PCB. Requires
Software, a 12V / 1A Plugpack, Acrylic Casing,
S
and
TRONIC Parallel Port Computer Cable.
CDB25
Y ELE
OATLEPCB & Software on 3.5" disk: (K100B) $75
PCB,
Software on 3.5" disk, 336 Bright Red LED'S, All
ICS
on-board
CTRON components & a suitable surplus power
Y ELE
OATLEsupply: (K100) $165
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CTRON
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OATLE
ICS
CTRON
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OATLENEODYMIUM RARE EARTH MAGNETS.
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ELECT
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S
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ELECT
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S
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ELECT
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S
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ELECT
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S
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ELECT
ICS
(NEW) PHILIPS Active Speaker System:
CTRON
Y ELE
These compact pair of speakers contain a built-in
OATLE
amplifier and bass reflex port. Designed in
Europe. Frequency range 100 - 18kHz, 2.25" full TRONICS
C
Y ELE
range speakers with 4W PMPO output. Stylish,
OATLE
easily portable and click
together to form a single
ICS
CTRON
Y ELE
package. Requires
OATLE
4 x 1.5V AA
batteries (not supplied)
ICS
CTRON
and has socket for
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operation with a
plugpack. Has 3.5mm
ICS
CTRON
stereo plug to connect
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OATLE
to source: (SBCBA100) $12
ICS
RON
12V DC - 240 AC INVERTER KIT:
ELECT
TLEY
OAauto
Features inc. modified square wave output &
start with load sensing, easily modified to accept
ONICS
24V DC input. Uses Mosfets with minimal
LECTR
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T
A
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heatsinking required. Requires a 240V to 8V-0-8V
transformer. 200-600 Watt output dependant on
transformer. To save money you can wind yourELECTRONICS
EY
OATLonown transformer. Basic kit includes PCB & all
board components including 4 x 60A Mosfets:
Basic kit including PCB & all on- board LECTRONICS
E
TLEY
components: (K127) $39 Basic kit includingOAPCB
& all on- board components
ICS
with a suitable 300VA
CTRON
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Torroidal Transformer
OATLE
(weighs 5kg) and a large
ICS
GET ONE WHILE YOU STILL CAN!!! filter capacitor. This transCTRON
Y ELE
THE LAST OF OUR FAMOUS GERMAN-BUILT former is robust and is the
OATLE
size of many similar 500VA
PRINTER / SCANNER MECHANISMS
ICS
Worth $1800!! These heavy duty printer models: (K127T) $92
CTRON
Y ELE
mechanisms. We have constructed a Plotter and
OATLE
a CNC machine bed (could mount a cutter, router, HOSE REELS:
drill etc). from parts that were mainly recovered Self retracting compressed Air hose reels with a TRONICS
C
AC
Y ELE
from these printer. The main parts that were not swivel inlet connection. Powered by a 24V
OATLE
geared
motor
assembly
which
is
attached
to
the
recovered from the printer were some chipboard
and two pieces of 1" aluminium angles. You would reel. The whole assembly is mounted on a frame RONICS
CT
has
Y ELE
also require a Stepper Motor driver kit (K142) for that needs to be bolted to a firm surface. Reel
OATLE is
a diameter of 350mm and is 115mm high. Hose
each Stepper Motor.
Parts inc.SIX MINEBEA STEPPER MOTORS: manually extended, pulling the hose sharply
ICS
theELECTRON
2x4 wire type 23LM-C355-38V 50x55mm 3x4 actuates a reversing mechanism that retracts
TLEY
A
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wire type 17PM-H303-04V 37x 42mm 1x4 wire hose. A matching enclosed
type 17PM-M007-02, 42x33mm A PCB WITH 240-24V torroidal transICS
CTRON
SGS STEPPER DRIVER IC'S. A POWERFUL & former is included. Made
Y ELE
OATLE
in
SWEDEN
by
Winler
&
COMPACT SWITCH MODE POWER SUPPLY
WITH FAN. Features 240V input and outputs of Sundberg: (ZA0005) There
S
RONIC
5V/8A, -12V/1.5A, +12V/1A & +32V/4A. A 24 PIN are a few different units availELECT
TLEY
A
O
able
ranging
from
$150
to
$300
PRINT HEAD, OPTICAL SCANNER, CPU,
EPROM, matching BELTS & PULLEYS, two Call for more details and prices.
ICS
GEARED MOTOR ASSEMBLIES with micro
CTRON
Y ELE
(NEW) STAINBRITE ELECTRONIC CLEANER:
OATLE
switches and a MAINS FILTER.
We have the enclosed Arlec transformers (main
UNBELIEVABLE
unit) but we don't have the leads, electrode & acid CTRONICS
PRICE OF ONLY
LE
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req. Has three output terminals; Common,OATLow
$49
and High. Low output delivers 28V AC at 13A,
NOTE WEIGHS
High output delivers 38V <at>13A. The output RONICS
OVER 20kg & SO
CT
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terminals similar to the ones used on arc welders.
WE ARE UNABLE
OATLE
The
unit
can
obviously
deliver
much
higher
TO POST IT TO
currents, has a 10A fuse in the 240V
ICS
OTHER
CTRON
AC primary. (supplied with
Y ELE
COUNTRIES INC.
OATLE
mains lead) in an industrial
NEW ZEALAND.
strength box which measures
Plans / notes on
ICS
CTRON
approx. 300 x 200 x 200mm.
Y ELE
floppy for an A3
OATLE
Unit & instruction booklet only.
plotter & a 2/3
approx. 13kg: (ZA0026) $120
axis mill: $9
ONICS
Very strong!!!
You will
S be able to separate two of these by
NICnot
CTROthem
pulling
apart directly away from each other.
Y ELE
OATLE
Zinc coated.
CYLINDRICAL
7 mm diameter x 3
S
TRONIC (G37) $2.50 CYLINDRICAL
ELECthick:
mm
Y
E
L
T
OA
10mm diameter x 3 mm thick: (G38) $5
TOROIDAL
S 50mm outer, 35mm inner,
RONIC
R
5mm
ELECTthick: (G39) $12 ROD 10mm long,
ELECT
Y
E
L
T
ATLEY
OA 4mm diameter: (G54) $2.50 CYLINDRICAL 3mm USED) POCKET PAGERS:
Check out our “new look” web site for Omore
Small modern pagers, brands
products. Amazing cheap super bargains in
diameter xS 1.5mm thick: (G58) 2 for $1
S
IC
include LINK, PHILIPS, RTC.
our bargain corner & many other items that weELECTRONIC
CTRON
E
L
E
Y
Y
Condition “unknown”, all have
OATLELAPTOP COMPUTER MEMORY:
OATLE
can not fit on this page
This memory is brand new and still in it's original two small (grain of wheat) 1.5V
ICS (static bags). All modules are the lamps and lots of other parts.
Some of our prices have changed as aELECTRONICS
packaging
CTRON
Y ELE
LEY
OATLEHypertec brand and we are selling them for a All are powered by one AA cell. (089910) 5 for $5
result of GST & some as a result ofOATthe
fraction of their retail price. See our website for A limited number of these have very small 1.5Vdc poor performance of the Australian
motors. 13mm long X 10mm dia. for $5 ea.
ICS
NICS
dollar...
further
CTROinfo.
CTRON
Y ELE
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ULY
2000 69
OATLE www.oatleyelectronics.com Orders: Ph ( 02 ) 9584 3563 or 64, Fax 9584 3561, sales<at>oatleyelectronics.com, PO Box J89
OATLE
Oatley
NSW 2223
major cards with ph. & fax orders, Post & Pack typically $6 Prices subject to change without notice ACN 068 740 081 ABN18068 740 081
S
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ELECT
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions from
readers are welcome and will be paid for at standard rates.
4-wire milliohm tester
for DMMs
Based on a Maxim IC application
note, this simple battery-powered
adaptor converts an ordinary digital
multimeter (DMM) into a 4-wire milliohmmeter that accurately measures
the resistance of wiring, motor coils,
solenoids, high current inductors and
meter shunts. It could also be used to
locate shorts on a PC board.
The circuit is essentially a constant
current source which applies 1A,
WANTED!
YOUR CIRCUITS
AND PROJECTS!
If you have a scathingly brilliant,
original circuit that you'd like to share
with the world – and make some money
as well – send it in to us. We’ll pay up
to $100 for a really good idea:
•
•
•
It must be your own work
It must not have been published or
submitted elsewhere
It must be something other SILICON
CHIP readers would find interesting.
Send to: The Publisher, SILICON CHIP,
PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097.
email: silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
Phone: (02) 9979 5644
70 Silicon Chip
100mA or 10mA to the unknown resistance via two test leads, according
to the range switch (S2) setting. In use,
you set your DMM to the 2V range
and connect it across the resistance
being measured. This forms a 4-wire
connection to the resistance being
measured. This method of connection
avoids the problems of resistance in
the test leads.
Pressing switch S1 passes the selected current through the resistance
being measured. With 1A selected,
the DMM reading will be in Ohms.
A 1Ω resistance, for example, will
read 1.000.
With 100mA selected by range
switch S2, you have to multiply the
multimeter readings by 10 to get a
value in Ohms or by switching the
DMM to 200mV, the reading will once
again be in Ohms. Finally, if the 10mA
range is selected, the DMM should
be set at 200mV and the reading will
need to be multiplied by 10 to give
the correct value in Ohms.
The overall accuracy will depend
on that of the DMM, the op amp’s input offset voltage (±70µV maximum)
and the tolerances of resistors R1, R2,
R3, R4, R5 & R6. These resistors could
be trimmed to improve the accuracy
if you have suitable standards.
The constant current source works
as follows: The LM336 provides a
2.5V reference to the non-inverting
input (pin 3) of op amp IC2 and this is
compared with the voltage developed
by the Mosfet (Q1) current through
resistors R4, R5 and R6.
Note that S1 disconnects the 9V
battery when it is not pressed and this
means that there is no current drain
from the 1.5V battery either. If you
use a D cell here it should produce
thousands of measurements. The current drain from the 9V battery when
S1 is pressed is only about 30µA so
it should last for years.
SILICON CHIP.
Fine & coarse power
supply control
Often a circuit calls for a multi-turn potentiometer in order to
be able to give sufficiently fine
control. However, 10-turn potentiometers are not cheap.
This circuit idea is an eco
nomical alternative. It uses a dual
gang 50kΩ linear potentiome
ter
as the coarse control and a 500Ω
linear potent
iometer as the fine
control.
A portion of both the 50kΩ pot
elements are effectively connected
in series with the 500Ω potent
iometer between them. However,
because of the method of connection, the total resistance in circuit
SMART FASTCHARGERS®
2 NEW MODELS WITH OPTIONS
TO SUIT YOUR NEEDS & BUDGET
Now with 240V AC + 12V DC operation
PLUS fully automatic voltage detection
Use these REFLEX® chargers for all your
Nicads and NIMH batteries: Power tools
Torches Radio equip. Mobile phones
Video cameras Field test instruments
RC models incl. indoor flight Laptops
Photographic equip. Toys Others
Rugged, compact and very portable.
Designed for maximum battery capacity
and longest battery life.
Constant voltage
charger uses LM317
The ability to adjust the output
voltage of the LM317 3-terminal
regulator makes it ideal as the
basis for a simple constant voltage
charger. These two circuits, taken
from the National Semiconductor
Linear Brief 35, have the advantage
of no filter capacitors and the final
voltage from the charger is adjusted
by potentiometer R3.
In the top circuit, R1 defines the
charger output impedance and enables a “taper” charge characteristic
to be obtained. In the lower circuit,
transistor Q1 provides control of the
peak charging current, an important
point with smaller batteries. Note
that the transformer secondary
voltage will need to cater for the
voltage drop across the regulator
and depending on the charging
current, the LM317 will need to be
mounted on a heatsink.
AVOIDS THE WELL KNOWN MEMORY EFFECT.
SAVES MONEY & TIME: Restore most Nicads with
memory effect to capacity. Recover batteries with
very low remaining voltage.
CHARGES VERY FAST plus ELIMINATES THE
NEED TO DISCHARGE: charge standard batteries in
minimum 3 min., max. 1 to 4 hrs, depending on mA/h
rating. Partially empty batteries are just topped up.
Batteries always remain cool; this increases the total
battery life and also the battery’s reliability.
DESIGNED AND MADE IN AUSTRALIA
For a FREE, detailed technical description please
Ph (03) 6492 1368; Fax (03) 6492 1329; or
email smartfastchargers<at>bigpond.com
2567 Wilmot Rd., Devonport, TAS 7310
Truscott’s
• RESELLER FOR MAJOR KIT
RETAILERS
• PROTOTYPING EQUIPMENT
• COMPLETE CB RADIO
SUPPLY HOUSE
• TV ANTENNA ON SPECIAL
(DIGITAL READY)
• LARGE RANGE OF
ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS
Professional Mail Order Service
is always constant and is equal to
50kΩ + 500Ω = 50,500Ω.
As you can see, as the coarse
50kΩ control is wound up, less
of the top element is in circuit
while more of the bottom element
comes in, thus keeping the overall
resistance constant. The result is
a very consistent fine and coarse
control operation.
The circuit could be used with
the constant current load featured
in Circuit Notebook in the February 2000 issue. It is also equally
applicable to the Li’l PowerHouse
40V 1A Power Supply described
in June 2000 and in this month’s
issue.
Karl Sundberg,
Ashfield, NSW. ($25)
Truscott’s
Amidon
Stockist
ELECTRONIC WORLD Pty Ltd
ACN 069 935 397
Ph (03) 9723 3860
Fax (03) 9725 9443
27 The Mall, South Croydon, Vic 3136
(Melway Map 50 G7)
email: truscott<at>acepia.net.au
www.electronicworld.aus.as
JULY 2000 71
Motech
MT-4080A
LCR meter
Some digital multimeters have facilities for testing
inductance, capacitance and resistance but none
really do a good job for all three, particularly as far
as inductance is concerned. This is where the
Motech MT-4080A LCR meter comes into its own.
T
HE MT-4080A is a multimetersized instrument with a large
liquid crystal display and eight
pushbuttons on its control panel. As
well, there is a three-way socket with
large contacts to take the measurement
adaptors. Of course, some components
with suitable leads can be plugged
straight in but most component measurements will be taken using one of
the adaptors.
All told, up to 10 component par
ameters can be measured: AC impedance and DC resistance from zero
up to 9999MΩ; serial and parallel
inductance from 0.000µH up to 9999H;
serial and parallel capacitance from
0.000pF to 9999F; equivalent series
resistance (ESR) from zero to 9999Ω;
Dissipation factor (for capacitors) from
0 to 9999; Quality factor (for inductors)
from 0 to 9999; and phase angle from
-180° to + 180°.
72 Silicon Chip
Not only can all these parameters be
measured but you can also use one of
five test frequencies: 100Hz, 120Hz,
1kHz, 10kHz and 100kHz. The two
lower frequencies are important when
measuring ESR of electrolytic capacitors while 100kHz is important when
measuring small inductors and dissipation factor in the smaller capacitors.
At most times though, the chosen test
frequency is likely to be 1kHz.
The test voltage level is also select
able, at 1V, 250mV or 50mV RMS or
1V DC (for DC resistance measurements). Furthermore, if you are making
measurements on a component that
is varying, you can select fast or slow
measurement speeds: 2.5 or 4.5 meas
urements/second.
The LCD panel will show two par
ameters for each measurement, plus
the signal level and frequency. For
example, when measuring a capacitor
it will display the capacitance in pF,
nF, µF or F (Farads) plus the Dissipation factor or ESR. Similarly, for an
inductor, it will display the inductance
in µH, mH or H (Henries) plus the Q
or ESR.
Accuracy of the MT-4080A is quoted
as ±0.2%. The instrument also has a
range hold and relative modes which
can be handy when selecting components against a standard value.
Two adaptors are available for
measurements plus a shorting bar attachment. The first adaptor is a 4-wire
probe for surface mount components
while the second is a 4-wire probe for
testing standard leaded components.
Power comes from two AA cells
which may either be alkaline or rechargeable NiMH. A constant current
charger is also supplied.
All told then, the Motech MT-4080A
is a well-thought out instrument that
is very straightforward to use. We used
it in our laboratory for several weeks
and found it a very reliable unit.
The MT-4080A is priced at $1142
plus GST. For further information,
contact Westek Industrial Pro
ducts,
Unit 2, 6-10 Maria Street, Laverton
North, 3026. Ph (03) 9369 8802; fax
SC
(03) 9369 8006.
JULY 2000 73
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
Altronics’ “Jenny Craiged” plugpacks
Once you have a plugpack in a double power point, it’s often difficult (and
sometimes impossible) to get anything
else into the other outlet – let alone a
second plugpack.
Altronics Distributors claim they
placed their new super-slim plugpacks
on a strict diet to overcome this problem – and the results are plain to see.
Two of the “PowerTran” 12V/
500mA DC plugpacks (model M
9272) can easily fit side-by-side in
a standard double outlet while the
larger 16V/1.5A AC plugpack (model
M 9332) still leaves enough space for
another 3-pin plug to be inserted into
the other socket.
The M 9272 plugpacks, by the way,
measure 43 x 86 x 60mm (w x h x d).
All are Energy Authority approved and
are designed for vertical mounting.
These sell for $14.95 (pre GST).
One point we did notice is that unlike most
plugpacks (which are
welded or glued), these
are held together with
tamper-proof screws.
Of course we couldn’t
resist the temptation
to undo a tamper-proof
screw so we opened one
up… revealing the 16V
AC model has plenty of space inside
for a rectifier/filter/regulator if you
so wished. This would also make
them extremely attractive to the OEM
market.
There are several models in the
range covering the vast majority of
applications – DC and AC models of
various output voltages and capacities,
a couple of switchable models and even
a regulated supply
or two.
For more information contact
Alt-ronics on 1800
999 007 (Perth (08)
9328 1599), or visit
their website www.
altronics.com.au
Toroidal transformers for recent
SILICON CHIP audio projects
Amongst their extensive range of
transformers, Harbuch Electronics
have available a number of toroidal
models specifically made to suit
recent SILICON CHIP audio projects.
Of particular interest is the transformer to suit the recent 100W per
channel stereo amplifier featured in
the March and May issues.
This transformer is rated at 300VA
and has two 35V<at>2.25A + two
50V<at>0.1A windings as specified in
the article and sells for $60.45.
Harbuch also have 80VA and
160VA models with two 21V<at>1.9A
(or 3.8A) to suit the ultra low distor74 Silicon Chip
tion class-A amplifier featured in the
July and August 1998 issues.
These transformers sell for $35.45
and $42.50 respectively or a 160VA
low flux model with flux band sells
for $65.90.
Finally, a whopping 800VA model with two 57 V<at> 7A windings to
suit the 500W mono amplifier (August-Oct ober 1997) sells for $134.50.
Harbuch Electronics may be contacted on (02) 9476 5854; fax (02)
9476 3231. All prices quoted above
are pre-GST so you will need to
contact Harbuch for latest GST-inclusive pricing.
Security screwdriver
set from Jaycar
More often than not these days,
manufacturers try to make life difficult when we want to remove screws.
They use a variety of tamper-proof
and tamper-resistant models to try to
keep the lid on – when we want it off.
In service work, making modifications or just because we want to see
what’s inside, there have been many
occasions in the past when we’ve been
stymied by security screws.
Not any more! That’s where this
screwdriver set from Jaycar comes
in incredibly handy. It contains bits
which will fit most of the commonly-used security screws found today.
There are Torx and tamper-proof
Torx, Tri-Wing, pin-drive, hex (allen),
security hex and pin drive, along with
half a dozen standard sockets from 4
to 8mm, a magnetic bit holder and a
screwdriver handle, all housed in a
plastic case with see-through lid so
you can instantly check to see if any
bits have gone west.
The case itself is only 120 x 50 x
90mm so it won’t take up a lot of room
in your tool box. But it could save your
bacon one day!
All of the bits and sockets can
also be used in power screwdrivers
or drills. It’s one very handy set (we
used it to remove the tamper-proof
screws in the plugpacks elsewhere
on these pages!)
The “Royal Flush” set is just one
of the specialised bit sets stocked in
Jaycar stores. This one (Cat TD2037)
sells for $18.95 (inc GST) and is also
available by mail order or via Jaycar’s
website, www.jaycar.com.au
Questronix computer-to-video conversion and computer video switching units
Quest Electronics have many video
editing, titling, processing and conversion products but there is one that
will gladden the heart of anyone who
has ever had to make a presentation
using computer-based information. .
. only to find that they cannot display
such information on large screen or
projection TV systems.
While many of the high performance
(read high price!) video projectors will
accept graphics or images from a PC,
a significant proportion won’t. That’s
where the fully imported CORIOscan
Connect will help out.
Not only will it convert a PC or Mac
video output to a variety of TV-type
formats (composite video, S-Video
and RGB, switchable between NTSC
and PAL) it as flicker reduction for a
super-stable image on TV, has quick
adjustment for overscan and freeze,
allows 2x zooming and panning and
works up to a resolution of 1600 x 1200
(although 1024 x 768 is recommended). Automatic or manual control is
available.
A full-function remote control is
included which gives you control over
all of these functions and many more,
while a loop-back port is provided so
you can still use your computer’s VGA monitor.
No special driver software is required – you simply connect the system up,
select the required mode
and you’re ready to start
the display. The CORIOscan Connect is housed in
an attractive plastic case
measuring 100 x 200 x
30mm. The rear panel houses the power input socket (12V DC <at>
300mA; plugpack included), the PC
input socket, PC loop output socket
and the RGB, S-Video and Composite
Video output sockets.
And while on the subject of video
processing equipment Quest Electronics have also released a locally designed and manufactured Multimedia
Switcher which will not only switch
the video graphics (VGA/SVGA/XGA
etc) from three personal computers
to a single monitor or projector but
also their stereo audio outputs to a
single pair of speakers or stereo power
amplifier.
Housed in a one-unit 19-inch rack
mounting aluminium case, the unit is
designed to handle large presentations
Affordable digital camera
Last month we told you about the
$4600 Sony digital camcorder/still
camera.
If that one is a bit out of your price
range (it is out of ours!) then this little
digital camera from Dick Smith Electronics might be more to your liking!
At just $147 (pre GST
price) the
D-CAM digital camera has
256 x 256 pixel
resolution, 24bit true colour
image quality
and the ability to store up
to 15 pictures.
It weighs just
100g and comes
with Arcsoft Photostu-dio software,
compatible with Windows 95/98.
The camera is ideal for students
who want to include colour pics in
their school assignments or for anyone who wants to send images over
the Internet.
It is available from all Dick
Smith Electronics
stores (includi n g P o w e rHouse stores),
via DSE Direct Link mail
orders (1300
366 644) or
via the Dick
Smith webs i t e , w w w.
dse.com.au
or productions where the inputs can
come from a variety of sources. Four
push-button switches with indicator
LEDS on the front panel select either
standby or the computer source, or
a remote control can be used with a
D-socket on the rear panel provided
for the purpose. In the standby mode
the sync from input one is sent to the
output but the R,G and B signals are
blanked, resulting in a stable, black
screen. Audio is also disconnected in
standby mode.
Each computer input can be separately monitored at the same time as
the buffered main output carries the
selected input. This output can drive
long 75W cables without ringing or
smearing. The unit is mains powered
For more information on these, or
any of the large range of video processing products available through
Quest Electronics, contact them on
(02) 9477 3596; fax 02 9477 3681 or
visit their website at www.questronix.
com.au/~questav
TOROIDAL TRANSFORMERS
FOR SILICON CHIP AMPLIFIERS
15W CLASS A AMPLIFIER
80VA for single channel monoblock
240:2x21V/1.9A
160VA for amplifier as published
240:2x21V/3.8A
160VA low flux design + flux band
240:2x21V/3.8A
160VA low flux design + flux band
240:2x42Vct/1.9A
ULTRA LOW THD 100W AMPLIFIER
160VA for single channel monoblock
240:2x35V/2.25A + 2x50V/0.1A
300VA for dual channel amplifier
240:2x35V/4.5A + 2x50V/0.1A
$35.45
$42.50
$65.90
$74.40
$50.70
$60.45
500W MONO AMPLIFIER, as published
800VA
240:2x57V/7A
$134.50
All prices include WST. Freight extra.
HARBUCH ELECTRONICS PTY LTD
Ph 02 9476 5854 Fx 02 9476 3231
JULY 2000 75
Hotter Hot Chips : new micro development board
Back in the February 2000 issue
we reviewed the “Hot Chip” starter
kit, an easy way to get into playing
with microcontrollers.
Now there’s a new Hot Chips
starter kit from the same people –
Investment Technologies Pty Ltd
– and they haven’t been sitting on
their hands for six months!
For a start, the new model (reproduced same-size below) is much
more “user friendly”. The original
(ABC Mini) was a tiny PC board
which basically had to be hardwired to a development board. The
ABC Maxi is much larger (120 x
72.5mm) with many new features.
There’s not only tons of room for
mounting components or “breadboarding” (a 20 x 12 matrix of plated-through holes at one end of the
board), there are several PC-mounting sockets for the 20mA (sinking)
I/O connections, (bi-directional
with internal pullup resistors),
a number of header pin sets for
programming, a socket to suit an
LCD display, a 3.5mm speaker
socket for sound output and
four output MOSFETs capable
of driving 8A loads each and 4
opto-isolated ouputs.
And that’s not all! Physically
the board is rather different,
not the least because the Atmel
AVT AT90S8535 chip is changed
from a 44-pin SMD device to a
40-pin PDIP package in a socket.
Clock speed is still 8MHz but
the new model is said to have
slightly faster capabilities than
the old. There is also extensive
software included although you
can use your own software if you
wish.
A serial (RS232) connector is
provided to allow interfacing to any
PC via a standard 9-way “straight
through” cable. RTS and CTS is
available. There is also a programming connector which connects
to the parallel port and on-board
RS485 circuit with 4-pin screw
terminal connection.
Also included is easily programmable software: a True Basic
Compiler, Assembler, Programming with on-screen results and
a communications package. The
software runs on Windows 3.11 to
Windows ’98. A DOS version compiler and assembler is also supplied
for diehard DOS fans.
This user friendly software inter-
“Real flat” monitor from Philips
The new Philips 109P 19-inch “real
flat” monitor is claimed to deliver a
more natural, comfortable view with
no distortion and drastically reduced
reflection.
The monitor incorporates Philips’
proprietary “Image Clear Enhancement” technology which is said to
have several technological innovations, including a flat aperture grille
tube and aspecial inner surface on
the tube, designed so that the screen
appears flat from a distance of 75100cm.
The tube also incorporates an ex76 Silicon Chip
tremely high contrast coating for
enhanced colours and whiter whites.
Maximum resolution of the screen is
1920 x 1440 with a flicker-free display of 1280 x 1024 at up to 103Hz.
The screen has an actual viewing
area of 18 inches diagonal. An Auto
Calibrate function is said to extend
the life of the monitor by up to 32%.
It is available through authorised
Philips resellers. For more information contact Philips Electronics, freecall 1800 658 086 or their
website at www.philips.com.au/
pcperipherals
faces with all of the required tools
on either this or the earlier board
to enable you to get going quickly.
Included in the software is a
Basic Compiler - Optimised for the
AVR Boards; Assembler - With C
like mathematics; Programming With on screen results and help; a
Comms Package; a full help system
with the option of modifying and
adding your own notes; a DOS Version Assembler and Basic Compiler
The Basic Compiler can also be
purchased separately or a trialware
version is downloadable from the
‘net.
Like the earlier version, the new
board is available from Dick Smith
Electronics stores throughout Australia, PowerHouse stores and mail
order service. Price is $293 inc GST
(Cat K-1432).
Yokogawa SignalExplorer: 500MHz, 1GS/sec
The new SignalExplorer DL7100
from Yokogawa is specifically designed for high-speed extraction
and screen display of desired information from large volumes of
captured data.
It has 4 channels, a 500MHz
bandwidth and a large TFT colour
display and with its sampling rate
of 1GS/sec and up to 2M words (or
8M words) of memory a faster sampling rate and complete waveform
acquisition is assured.
The DL7100 also features a new
Data Stream Engine (DSE) IC, also
designed to handle large amounts of
data and provide fast screen update
rates. This new DSE, combined with
enhanced triggering functions and
an “all points display” technique
which plots all data points without compression, makes it easy to
capture abnormal signals such as
high-speed surges. The display is
updated 30 times per second even
when using 1M word of memory and
the all-points display.
The oscilloscope also has four
analog inputs plus an additional 16
logic inputs available as an option.
Its history memory function can save
up to 2000 previous acquisitions,
making it possible to store waveforms with events not even covered
by trigger settings.
An optional built-in printer records waveforms and other data
and the ’scope will also output
data to a colour printer or PC via
its comms port. Data viewing and
reporting is made simple with the
Yokogawa Waveform Viewer software supplied.
For more information contact
Yokogawa Australia Pty Ltd on
(02) 9805 0699; fax (02) 9888 1844
or email measurement<at>yokogawa.
com.au
New
Tacho
and
Voltmeter kits from DSE
According to Dick Smith Electronics, projects for cars are always
among the most popular in their
stores.
So when SILICON CHIP published a
digital voltmeter (February 2000) and
a digital tacho (April 2000) specifically for in-car use, they were delighted.
Recently they were telling us how
good their kits had turned out, promising to send over a couple of built-up
version for us to have a look at.
Now we know why they are so
happy with them. The kits are every
bit as good as the originals. No, that’s
wrong. They’re better! They look
very smart with their silk-screened
front panels – we’re just a bit jealous
that it’s not viable to silk-screen our
prototypes.
Inside, the kits are also very professionally prepared with screened and
masked PC boards. The instructions,
too, have been re-written with the
novice in mind.
OK, DSE Kit Department, we’re impressed! The kits are available at all
DSE stores,
Power-House
stores or via
mail order or
their website:
www.dse.
com.au
3Com’s AirConnect: 11Mbps wireless LAN
3Com has announced the availability of its new AirConnect wireless
LAN system, offering speeds of up to
11Mbps without a physical (ie, wired)
connection.
Wireless LANs have been around
for some time now. While significantly
more expensive than their cable-based
counterparts they offer some significant advantages. For example, in old
buildings cabling can prove difficult,
if not impossible. A wireless LAN
eliminates the need for cabling.
Large institutions which may be
spread over several buildings or
even several areas – universities and
colleges, schools, hospitals and the
like – can also benefit from a wireless
LAN system. And of course with more
and more people using notebook com-
puters instead of a fixed workstation,
being able to stay connected to the
LAN wherever they are situated makes
a lot of sense.
3Com’s AirConnect system is made
up of wireless access points, PC cards
and the software and firmware to
drive it. Access points are fixed to
a ceiling or wall and act as a bridge
between the wired network and up to
63 simultaneous wireless PC or laptop/
notebook users.
AirConnect also lets users switch
between the LAN, modem and wireless environments based on where
they are situated. Users can also
choose different network resources
such as printers, etc.
A number of features make AirConnect unique. Its Site Survey utility, for
example, enables IT professionals to
identify dead spots and address them
before installation. Its Dynamic Access Mobile Connection Manager is a
set of tools which simplifies wireless
connectivity to monitor strength, signal quality and data rate, while the
PowerBASE-T module powers the
access points via the installed Ethernet
cable, eliminating the need for power
supply wiring.
AirConnect has a starter pack which
includes an access point, three PC
cards and the management software for
around $2700. For more information,
contact any 3Com distributor or 3Com
Australia Pty Ltd, Level 13, 65 Berry
St North Sydney NSW 2060. Freecall
1800 644 606, or visit the website
www.3com.com
SC
JULY 2000 77
DON’T
UTER
COMP
MISS OMNIBUS
THE
’BUS!
www.siliconchip.com.au
SILICON
CHIP’S
132 Pages
$ 95 *
9
ISBN 0 95852291 X
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IN
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FEA U
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A collection of computer features from the pages of SILICON
CHIP magazine
Hints o Tips o Upgrades o Fixes
Covers DOS, Windows 3.1, 95, 98, NT
o
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Do you feel a little “left behind” by the latest advances and developments
in computer hardware and software? Don’t miss the bus: get the ’bus!
THIS IS IT: The computer reference you’ve been asking for!
SILICON CHIP's Computer Omnibus is a valuable compendium of the most-requested
computer hardware and software features from recent issues of SILICON CHIP magazine
- all in one handy volume. Here's just a sample of the contents:
Troubleshooting your PC: what to do when things go wrong
NO
Choosing, installing and taming computer networks
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Upgrading and overclocking CPUs
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Hard disk drive upgrades, tune-ups and tips
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All about Linux
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ORDER NOW: Use the handy order form in this issue or call
(02) 9979 5644, 9-5 Mon-Fri with your credit card details.
* Price includes GST
09
VIDEO PROCESSING MADE EASY...
Whether you’re an exhibition or display specialist, a Government department, a school or religious
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CDM-830T Auto Video
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VCC3020 Hi Res Video
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At last! Convert anything to
anything - with 2 inputs,
Y/C & CV, AGC, bars,
timebase correction, picture
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For presentations, displays,
etc. Takes any of three
VGA/SVGA/XGA + audio inputs
(each with own monitor),
switches via front panel or
remote control. 1U rack mount.
4 video (Y/C & CV) and stereo
audio inputs. 2 sets of
outputs. Adjustable R,G,B,
colour, brightness, detail.
Also fade, neg image, split
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High quality automatic scan
converter from PC monitor
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with own monitor output to
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Quest Electronics Pty Limited, ABN 83003501282, trading as
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Showroom:
Postal:
Phone:
email:
2/1 Leonard St Hornsby NSW (by appt. only)
PO Box 548, Wahroonga NSW 2076
(02) 9477 3596 Fax: (02) 9477 3681
questav<at>questronix.com.au
ADEM Compac II
– A Very Smart Security System
Product Review by Ross Tester
D
espite “everyone knowing
someone” who has suffered
the misfortune of a home or
business burglary – often the someone
is themselves – fitting a security system is still not one of life’s priorities
to many people.
If you did want to fit a system, until
now, there have been two basic choices: do-it-yourself or pay a security
company to do it for you.
The first method scares many people, especially the non-technical, because of the difficulty of installation,
particularly retro-fitting an existing
building. All those cables to run and
more particularly hide, sensors to fit,
power to connect . . . it’s no wonder
that people are scared off. And that’s
before we start to consider renters
who aren’t permitted to install security systems.
The second method scares many
people simply because of the cost.
Sure, a lot of security companies
heavily subsidise the alarm capital
cost and the installation.
But they get you in the end with
the on-going costs: back-to-base
monitoring is often expensive ($10-20
per week is not uncommon) and the
charges for action after an alarm (and
most likely a false alarm) can really
hurt. Sending a patrolman around to
inspect the premises is often not included in the basic monitoring price.
Now there’s a new security product
on the market, easily fitted and operated by even the most non-technical
of people, which combines the best
features of both the above methods at
a fraction of the cost of either. It puts
you back in control of the situation –
monitoring the alarm and what action
to take when you have checked it out.
It’s called the ADEM Compac II and
it comes from another company in the
group which developed the Moving
Message Display (see elsewhere in
80 Silicon Chip
this issue) – 4D Systems Pty Ltd. In
fact, we only discovered it by accident
when we were talking to them about
the display.
We were so intrigued we just had
to have a closer look …
We’re talking about an alarm system
which is completely free-standing
and self-powered (though it can be
run from a plugpack supply). The
only installation you need to do is
fix a couple of mounting screws to
the ceiling, attach the unit and then
plug a (supplied) phone plug into a
phone socket.
OK so far, but what does it do?
The ADEM Compac II has a built-in
Passive Infrared (PIR) detector which
senses movement just like the PIR
sensors used in most alarm systems
these days. However, that is where
the similarity ends.
Instead of sounding an alarm, it
then dials one of two pre-programmed
phone numbers and delivers a message – one you record yourself. It
could be along the lines of “This is
27 Smith Street. An intruder may be
on the premises”.
When the phone is answered (or the
second phone, if it cannot get through
to the first) the system delivers that
message and then waits for a security
ID number (which, of course, you
program yourself!) to be entered via
the phone dial pad. Then the really
tricky bit starts!
An inbuilt microphone listens for
any sound being made at the premises – all without the possible intruder
knowing about it.
Now if you watch the movies, you’ll
know that every good crook sneaks
around without making a sound “…a
fly’s foot-fall would be distinctly
heard…” and all that (with apologies
to Messrs Gilbert and Sullivan).
In real life, crooks aren’t that clever.
With rare exception, they reef out
draws, pull contents out of cupboards,
turn over furniture – in fact, they make
quite a racket.
And that’s what you can listen in
on.You can remotely set the sensitivity of the unit to pick up even the
faintest sound – say from a room or so
away. You can even mask background
sounds. And if you don’t like what
you hear, you can do one of three
things.
(1) You can cut the call off and summon help – the Police, a neighbour,
the 120kg guy down the street with
the baseball bat . . .
(2) You can remotely set off a siren
within the ADEM Compac II which
hopefully will scare the pants off
the crook (or at least force a hasty
retreat), or …
(3) You can actually talk back,
via the phone, to whoever is in the
premises. Just imagine the impact of
that on the poor crook. He (perhaps
she) could be told anything you like. I
seem to remember a movie some time
ago where a burglar was startled by a
voice from the dark (was it a parrot?):
“Stay where you are and put your
hands up,” it said. “Jesus is watching
you.” “As if I care,” said the crook,
starting to get brave. “You should,”
said the voice. “Jesus is that dirty
great big hungry Rottweiler standing
in the doorway . . .”
Enough friviolity – because this
product is anything but frivolous.
Each ADEM Compac II comes with
its own coded infrared controller
which is used to arm or disarm the
system.
Or if you wish, you can call the
unit from any phone, fixed or mobile,
anywhere in the world to enter your
code and arm or disarm it. Just the
shot if you’ve flown to Vladivostok
and thought “damn, I forgot to turn
on the alarm.”
Not only that, you can remotely pro-
The ADEM Compac II
looks a lot like a smoke
detector. But it’s a
very clever alarm
system in a similarsized package. It’s
shown here with
its remote
control unit but
it can also be
armed and
disarmed
via any phone
- from anywhere in
the world!
gram the unit, including change your
code, change your message, adjust the
audio sensitivity, change the numbers
it will dial to and so on. Incidentally,
there is no restriction on the type of
phone it will call – mobile or fixed,
local/STD or even international, with
a number up to 18 digits long. (Seeing most mobile numbers are only 10
digits long and even the longest direct
dial overseas numbers are only 15-16
digits that gives it pretty wide scope).
Hey, it will even call you and tell
you that the batteries are getting flat!
All this, by the way, is housed in
an attractive package which looks and
mounts a lot like a smoke detector.
At 180 x 180 x 35 mm, it’s about the
same size, too. A comprehensive instruction manual is included as is the
previously mentioned keyring-sized
remote control. The system carries a
12 month warranty.
At $699 (inc gst) it might sound
expensive. But when you consider
what you’re getting for your money (a
complete system!) AND how much it
will save you in the future (possibly
even a big loss of property!) we think
it’s a bargain; even more so when you
consider not only the convenience
(especially for those in rental properties) but also the technology involved.
As you’ve probably gathered by
now, we’re pretty impressed by the
ADEM Compac II. It’s a great example
of where technology and a worthwhile
application marry perfectly.
The ADEM Compac II is available
through security specialists or direct
from 4D Systems Pty Ltd, Suite 2, 3-5
Station Rd, Auburn NSW 2144. Phone
(02) 9649-5065; Fax (02) 9649-4324.
Their website is at www.4dsystems.
com.au
SC
JULY 2000 81
VINTAGE TELEVISION
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
The AWA P1 portable 11-inch
B/W television set
This month we have changed the heading on
this article to reflect the change in subject
material to television as we deal with one of
the early portable TV sets from the valve era.
Portable valve TVs are good collectables
because they don’t take up a lot of space.
Back in the valve black and white
TV days, most sets were great lumbering beasts which often needed
two hefty chaps to lift and shift them
from place to place. Some were just
moveable with one person providing
they didn’t mind the risk of getting a
hernia. As time went by a few small
portable sets made their appearance
in Australia.
One was a General Electric – a set
modified slightly from American
standards and powered by an external 240V to 110V transformer. It was
a beast to get at and as a result I took
quite a dislike to servicing them. On
the other hand, AWA produced a similar-sized set in the P1 series of the late
60s. It was easy to disassemble and get
at, and with practice it was possible
to replace a picture tube in just 15
minutes. It was a nice set to work on
and it worked well too.
I had one of these for quite a few
years – in fact it was our one and
only set. The drawback was that you
needed binoculars to see the screen
if you sat too far away! I sold it and
a few years later bought it back again
when I got interested in vintage radio
and television. I also managed to get
four more defunct units, so restoring
at least one to working order was a
good bet.
As I suggested back in the November 1999 issue, if you intend to restore
valve black and white television sets
to work
ing order it is desirable to
have more than one available. The
reason for this is that picture tubes,
horizontal output transformers and
deflection yokes in particular are
virtually unobtainable.
Restoration of television sets to
working order is a rather different task
to restoring valve radios but with care,
there is no reason why this should not
be just as successful.
Restoring the P1
The AWA P1 before restoration. It is a good candidate for restoration since it
does not take up a lot of space.
82 Silicon Chip
Removing the cabinet back is a
snap. The set was tipped onto its
front with a blanket on the workbench protecting the front. The four
Nylon screws securing the back were
removed and the cabinet lifted upwards. The aerial terminal board was
This rear view of set shows how the PC board swings out, allowing easy access
to most items for service.
unclipped from the turret tuner and
the whole of the set was exposed; five
minutes work at most.
The set was sat upright and three
screws around the edge of the printed
circuit board were removed. The coaxial cable was unclipped from near the
picture tube and the board swung out
to gain access to most of the set, which
can be seen in one of the photographs.
A general clean-up and dusting out
were in order. TV sets attract lots of
dust due to the high voltage used on
the picture tube; 11kV in this case.
A number of grubby sections responded well to washing with a kerosene-soaked rag and now look good.
I removed the valves and washed
them in soapy water, then rinsed
them in plain water. They come up
well. I keep the bases of octal valves
out of the water as it will get into the
base and take some time to dry or
may make a conductive path inside
the base between pins; a good way to
ruin a valve.
The turret tuner was likely to need
some attention on the channel change
contacts, just as wave-change contacts
in dual-wave radios often do. Two
self-tapping screws hold the side
panel/shield of the tuner in place
and these were removed. With a rag
soaked in contact cleaner I rubbed
each of the exposed coil terminations
along each channel biscuit to clean
any muck off. All 13 biscuits were
cleaned.
Then CRC (or similar) lubricant/
cleaner was used to free up the small
screw at the righthand end of each
tuner biscuit. This screw is adjusted
to set the fine tuning on each channel, so it needs to be free – they get
rather tight when the grease congeals
on them.
Having cleaned up the turret tuner
biscuit contacts, the shield was put
back on the side of the tuner. I’ve
never really found out why the coil
assemblies used in the tuners for each
channel are called biscuits. However,
the early ones do look like small rectangular brown biscuits. (That’s why
. . . Ed).
I found that the speaker cloth had
The AWA P1 rear view with the
cabinet removed and the track side
of the PC board exposed.
been pushed back from the grille so
I had to take the speaker out to gain
access to it. This wasn’t the easiest job
as the tuner had to be taken out too. It
is attached to the set frame with three
self-tappers, of which only two were
easily accessible. The chassis/frame
or whatever you call the metalwork
supporting the set had to be separated
from the front escutcheon and picture
JULY 2000 83
This side view shows the turret tuner with its metal shield removed to give
access to tuner channel change contacts and the biscuits.
tube. Only two self-tappers hold the
two sections together and these were
removed.
The channel-change knob was removed and the set moved back away
from the picture tube a few centimetres – as far as the EHT lead would
allow. The tuner screws were now
all exposed and were undone and the
tuner removed, to give access to the
speaker mounting screws. They were
removed and the speaker pulled back.
The cloth was pushed back into place;
just a few seconds work. I decided that
the control potentiometers which are
mounted in front of the speaker could
do with a squirt of contact cleaner
while I had all that section apart.
Reassembling it all was the reverse
of the disassembly procedure. However, before doing that I cleaned around
the sections of the set now exposed, so
that all sections ended up being clean.
Circuit diagram
It is most desirable to have a circuit
diagram and any other information
pertaining to the set. I am fortunate to
have a reasonable supply of black and
white TV circuits and information
so I was able to look up and find all
the necessary information on the P1
which covered four foolscap pages.
This included the circuit with oscilloscope waveforms, a circuit of the
84 Silicon Chip
tuner, parts list, a PC board layout
and a description of how to go about
various servicing activities.
J & R Publications put out a series
of loose leaf manuals over a period
of several years from around 1960.
These cover television sets, valve
radios and Australian and overseas
origin transistor receivers, in several
different volumes.
Careful inspection of the set did not
reveal anything looking out of place
or overheated. Most of the set uses
polyester capacitors and knowing
their reliability, it was not thought
any problems should arise through
them being faulty.
Power was applied to the set with
the cabinet back still removed. A raster came up on the screen, and then a
weak picture appeared on the screen
when I held one of the aerial/antenna
terminals. But there was no sound
except a low level buzzing noise.
These are VHF-only sets so if there
are no VHF TV stations nearby, a
down converter or a VCR with a VHF
output channel will be necessary if
any TV signals are to be seen.
Troubleshooting
Now where do you start to look for
troubles in a TV set with 13 valves?
One of the good things about TV sets
is that they are easier to sectionalise
than a radio, just by observing what
the set does or does not do. The fact
that I could get a picture on the screen
indicated that the power supply, tuner, video IF, video amplifier, picture
tube, and the vertical and horizontal
deflection circuits and the extra high
voltage (EHT) were all working. What
was left?
The AGC circuit could have been
faulty but the signal level I had was
too weak to actuate it anyway. However, the likely culprits were the sound
IF which comes off the output of the
video amplifier and possibly the audio amplifier.
I was able to inject some audio into
the grid of the audio stage and got
output, so it seemed likely the sound
IF was faulty.
I tried a fresh 6CS6 but with no
improvement. Ah well, I’d better get
serious about this. I looked at the
circuit around the sound IF stage and
noted the voltages I could expect to
find. I looked at the PC board pattern
in the information I had and started
tracing where the various pins of the
valve appear on the track side of the
board.
Most voltages appeared within the
normal expected range but the plate
showed a big fat zero. Testing the
other side of the plate feed resistor
revealed 180V, which is normal. The
470kΩ plate resistor had gone open
circuit. This was replaced and the
set tried again. Off-station we had
glorious hiss and on-station, once a
good antenna was connected and the
fine tuning adjusted, we had good
clean sound.
In reality this was the only electronic fault in the set. Lucky me.
I adjusted the fine tuning on the
only VHF channel available and the
video recorder output channel, check
ed the vertical hold and the other
controls, and the set worked just as
it should. I have a suspicion that the
6GK5 triode RF amplifier may be a
little weak, and when I get hold of a
spare I’ll try it, but at the moment it
is quite satisfactory.
Note that did say a triode RF amplifier. These caused many problems
for early radio experimenters and
here they are being used successfully
at VHF from 45-222MHz. Triodes are
low noise so work much better as an
RF amplifier at VHF but they do have
to be neutralised.
Luckily, the picture tube was in
good order with no sign of flaring
and overall the set worked like it had
years ago
The rabbit ears telescopic antenna
was broken in the set, so the easiest
method of replacing it was to swap
the back off another set which had an
intact antenna. This certainly was an
easy job. The cabinet was a bit grubby
too so a dose of detergent, warm water,
a small scrubbing brush, a cloth and
some elbow grease had the cabinet
looking quite good.
Scuff marks and other marks in the
plastic are not easily removed regrettably, but it can be clean. (Editor’s
hint: try car polish). Once scrubbed
up, a wipe of with a clean wet rag
will leave the cabinet free of detergent
and dirt.
Set summary
The AWA P1 series of small portable valve receivers were well thought
out, relatively easy to service (picture
tube change in 15 minutes), gave good
pictures and were reliable.
The only criticism of them is
the sound IF system used – ie, the
quad-rature detector. The limiter type
After restoration, the set produced a good black and white picture.
IF amplifier followed by the FM ratio
detector was a far superior IF system
in my opinion but a bit more expensive to put into the set.
That said, the quality of the audio
with the quadrature detector was
quite OK as long as the signal coming
SC
in was of good quality.
Restoration Tips For B&W TV Sets
These tips are just a few to help you
get into black and white TV restoration. There are not many of these
sets left, so now is the time to start
collecting even if restoration is not
contemplated for a while. By taking
it carefully and asking for help if
needed, the restoration of our early
TV history can be just as much fun
as our radio restorations.
(1) Try to obtain more than one example of the same chassis set.
(2) Obtain a circuit diagram and any
other information available on the
receiver.
(3) If this is your first go at restoring
a TV set, enlist the aid of a fellow
restorer or perhaps a retired TV serviceman for advice.
(4) Providing the picture tube, deflection yoke and horizontal output
transformer (and maybe the vertical
output transformer too) are OK, the
set should be quite restorable. If any
of these three are faulty, another old
set with these as good components
will be necessary – otherwise it will
be suitable as a static restoration
(cabinet and general clean inside).
(5) Replace all paper capacitors,
taking particular note of the voltage
ratings. Some values are critical, others non-critical as in radio receivers.
(6) Check all resistor values (within
reason) as many of them can be
expected to go high or open-circuit.
(7) When replacing components,
particularly in the video IF and video amplifier sections, pay particular
attention to maintaining the same
lead dress, as this may affect picture
quality.
(8) Have a reasonable supply of
valves on hand. Sometimes a valve
won’t work in one circuit position but
will work in another position.
(9) Mark the chassis with the valve
type alongside each socket, so that
valves are not plugged into the wrong
sockets.
(10) If you are confident all has been
done that can be done in the way of
replacing faulty components, the set
can be turned on. It is necessary to
observe the HT line and the horizontal output valve. The rectifiers plates
can glow red if they are thermionic
types as can the horizontal output
valve if things are not right.
MOST IMPORTANT
(11) DO NOT adjust IF and tuner
tuning slugs unless you know exactly
what you are doing and have suitable
test equipment. TV receiver IF and
tuner sections can tolerate quite a
bit of drift without giving a bad picture
due to the broadband nature of the
tuned circuits. The tuner and video IF
stages have a bandwidth of at least
7MHz, not 10kHz like the AM radio
IF bandwidth.
(12) Treat old picture tubes like un
exploded bombs, particularly the
larger ones. If handling a picture tube,
wear a leather apron, gloves and
safety glasses for complete safety.
(13) NEVER pick up a picture tube by
the neck; this is a weak area where
the glass is thinnest. Tubes can implode, doing enormous damage. It is
rare but it does happen.
JULY 2000 85
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December 1993: Remote Controller For Garage Doors; Build A LED
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November 1991: Build A Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.1; A Junkbox
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Engine Management, Pt.5; Airbags In Cars – How They Work.
March 1994: Intelligent IR Remote Controller; 50W (LM3876) Audio
Amplifier Module; Level Crossing Detector For Model Railways; Voice
Activated Switch For FM Microphones; Engine Management, Pt.6.
April 1994: Sound & Lights For Model Railway Level Crossings; Discrete
Dual Supply Voltage Regulator; Universal Stereo Preamplifier; Digital
Water Tank Gauge; Engine Management, Pt.7.
May 1994: Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries; Induction Balance Metal
Locator; Multi-Channel Infrared Remote Control; Dual Electronic Dice;
Simple Servo Driver Circuits; Engine Management, Pt.8.
June 1994: 200W/350W Mosfet Amplifier Module; A Coolant Level Alarm
For Your Car; 80-Metre AM/CW Transmitter For Amateurs; Converting
Phono Inputs To Line Inputs; PC-Based Nicad Battery Monitor; Engine
Management, Pt.9.
July 1994: Build A 4-Bay Bow-Tie UHF Antenna; PreChamp 2-Transistor
Preamplifier; Steam Train Whistle & Diesel Horn Simulator; Po
August 1994: High-Power Dimmer For Incandescent Lights; Microprocessor-Controlled Morse Keyer; Dual Diversity Tuner For FM
Microphones, Pt.1; Nicad Zapper; Engine Management, Pt.11.
September 1994: Automatic Discharger For Nicad Battery Packs;
MiniVox Voice Operated Relay; Image Intensified Night Viewer; AM
Radio For Weather Beacons; Dual Diversity Tuner For FM Microphones,
Pt.2; Engine Management, Pt.12.
October 1994: How Dolby Surround Sound Works; Dual Rail Variable
Power Supply; Build A Talking Headlight Reminder; Electronic Ballast For
Fluorescent Lights; Build A Temperature Controlled Soldering Station;
Electronic Engine Management, Pt.13.
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Detach and mail to:
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Or call (02) 9979 5644 & quote your credit card
details or fax the details to (02) 9979 6503.
Email: silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
November 1994: Dry Cell Battery Rejuvenator; Novel Alphanumeric
Clock; 80-Metre DSB Amateur Transmitter; Twin-Cell Nicad Discharger
(See May 1993); How To Plot Patterns Direct to PC Boards.
December 1996: Active Filter Cleans Up CW Reception; Fast Clock
For Railway Modellers; Laser Pistol & Electronic Target; Build A
Sound Level Meter; 8-Channel Stereo Mixer, Pt.2; Index To Volume 9.
December 1994: Dolby Pro-Logic Surround Sound Decoder, Pt.1;
Easy-To-Build Car Burglar Alarm; Three-Spot Low Distortion Sinewave
Oscillator; Clifford – A Pesky Electronic Cricket; Remote Control
System for Models, Pt.1; Index to Vol.7.
January 1997: How To Network Your PC; Control Panel For Multiple
Smoke Alarms, Pt.1; Build A Pink Noise Source (For Sound Level
Meter Calibration); Computer Controlled Dual Power Supply, Pt.1;
Digi-Temp Monitors Eight Temperatures.
January 1995: Sun Tracker For Solar Panels; Battery Saver For Torches;
Dolby Pro-Logic Surround Sound Decoder, Pt.2; Dual Channel UHF
Remote Control; Stereo Microphone Preamplifier.
February 1997: Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.6; PC-Controlled
Moving Message Display; Computer Controlled Dual Power Supply, Pt.2; Alert-A-Phone Loud Sounding Alarm; Control Panel For
Multiple Smoke Alarms, Pt.2.
February 1995: 50-Watt/Channel Stereo Amplifier Module; Digital Effects Unit For Musicians; 6-Channel Thermometer With LCD Readout;
Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers, Pt.1; Oil Change Timer For
Cars; Remote Control System For Models, Pt.2.
March 1995: 50 Watt Per Channel Stereo Amplifier, Pt.1; Subcarrier
Decoder For FM Receivers; Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers,
Pt.2; IR Illuminator For CCD Cameras; Remote Control System For
Models, Pt.3; Simple CW Filter.
March 1997: Driving A Computer By Remote Control; Plastic Power
PA Amplifier (175W); Signalling & Lighting For Model Railways;
Build A Jumbo LED Clock; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.7.
April 1997: Simple Timer With No ICs; Digital Voltmeter For Cars;
Loudspeaker Protector For Stereo Amplifiers; Model Train Controller;
A Look At Signal Tracing; Pt.1; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.8.
December 1998: Protect Your Car With The Engine Immobiliser
Mk.2; Thermocouple Adaptor For DMMs; A Regulated 12V DC
Plugpack; Build Your Own Poker Machine, Pt.2; Improving AM
Radio Reception, Pt.2; Mixer Module For F3B Glider Operations.
January 1999: The Y2K Bug & A Few Other Worries; High-Voltage
Megohm Tester; Getting Going With BASIC Stamp; LED Bargraph
Ammeter For Cars; Keypad Engine Immobiliser; Improving AM
Radio Reception, Pt.3; Electric Lighting, Pt.10
February 1999: Installing A Computer Network (Network Types,
Hubs, Switches & Routers); Making Front Panels For Your Projects;
Low Distortion Audio Signal Generator, Pt.1; Command Control
Decoder For Model Railways; Build A Digital Capacitance Meter;
Remote Control Tester; Electric Lighting, Pt.11.
March 1999: Getting Started With Linux; Pt.1; Build A Digital
Anemometer; 3-Channel Current Monitor With Data Logging; Simple DIY PIC Programmer; Easy-To-Build Audio Compressor; Low
Distortion Audio Signal Generator, Pt.2; Electric Lighting, Pt.12.
May 1997: Teletext Decoder For PCs; Build An NTSC-PAL Converter;
Neon Tube Modulator For Light Systems; Traffic Lights For A Model
Intersection; The Spacewriter – It Writes Messages In Thin Air; A
Look At Signal Tracing; Pt.2; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.9.
April 1999: Getting Started With Linux; Pt.2; High-Power Electric
Fence Controller; Bass Cube Subwoofer; Programmable Thermostat/Thermometer; Build An Infrared Sentry; Rev Limiter For
Cars; Electric Lighting, Pt.13; Autopilots For Radio-Controlled
Model Aircraft.
May 1995: Build A Guitar Headphone Amplifier; FM Radio Trainer,
Pt.2; Transistor/Mosfet Tester For DMMs; A 16-Channel Decoder For
Radio Remote Control; Introduction to Satellite TV.
June 1997: PC-Controlled Thermometer/Thermostat; Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.1; Build An Audio/RF Signal Tracer; High-Current
Speed Controller For 12V/24V Motors; Manual Control Circuit For
A Stepper Motor; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.10.
May 1999: The Line Dancer Robot; An X-Y Table With Stepper
Motor Control, Pt.1; Three Electric Fence Testers; Heart Of LEDs;
Build A Carbon Monoxide Alarm; Getting Started With Linux; Pt.3.
June 1995: Build A Satellite TV Receiver; Train Detector For Model
Railways; 1W Audio Amplifier Trainer; Low-Cost Video Security
System; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter For Models, Pt.1.
July 1997: Infrared Remote Volume Control; A Flexible Interface
Card For PCs; Points Controller For Model Railways; Simple Square/
Triangle Waveform Generator; Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.2;
An In-Line Mixer For Radio Control Receivers.
April 1995: FM Radio Trainer, Pt.1; Photographic Timer For Dark
rooms; Balanced Microphone Preamp. & Line Filter; 50W/Channel
Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2; Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers, Pt.3;
8-Channel Decoder For Radio Remote Control.
July 1995: Electric Fence Controller; How To Run Two Trains On A
Single Track (Incl. Lights & Sound); Setting Up A Satellite TV Ground
Station; Build A Reliable Door Minder.
August 1995: Fuel Injector Monitor For Cars; Gain Controlled Microphone Preamp; Audio Lab PC-Controlled Test Instrument, Pt.1; How
To Identify IDE Hard Disk Drive Parameters.
September 1995: Railpower Mk.2 Walkaround Throttle For Model
Railways, Pt.1; Keypad Combination Lock; The Vader Voice; Jacob’s
Ladder Display; Audio Lab PC-Controlled Test Instrument, Pt.2.
October 1995: Geiger Counter; 3-Way Bass Reflex Loudspeaker
System; Railpower Mk.2 Walkaround Throttle For Model Railways,
Pt.2; Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries; Digital Speedometer & Fuel
Gauge For Cars, Pt.1.
November 1995: Mixture Display For Fuel Injected Cars; CB Transverter
For The 80M Amateur Band, Pt.1; PIR Movement Detector; Dolby Pro
Logic Surround Sound Decoder Mk.2, Pt.1; Digital Speedometer &
Fuel Gauge For Cars, Pt.2.
December 1995: Engine Immobiliser; 5-Band Equaliser; CB Transverter For The 80M Amateur Band, Pt.2; Subwoofer Controller; Dolby
Pro Logic Surround Sound Decoder Mk.2, Pt.2; Knock Sensing In
Cars; Index To Volume 8.
January 1996: Surround Sound Mixer & Decoder, Pt.1; Magnetic Card
Reader; Build An Automatic Sprinkler Controller; IR Remote Control
For The Railpower Mk.2; Recharging Nicad Batteries For Long Life.
February 1996: Three Remote Controls To Build; Woofer Stopper
Mk.2; 10-Minute Kill Switch For Smoke Detectors; Basic Logic Trainer;
Surround Sound Mixer & Decoder, Pt.2.
March 1996: Programmable Electronic Ignition System; Zener Diode
Tester For DMMs; Automatic Level Control For PA Systems; 20ms
Delay For Surround Sound Decoders; Multi-Channel Radio Control
Transmitter; Pt.2; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.1.
April 1996: Cheap Battery Refills For Mobile Telephones; 125W
Audio Power Amplifier Module; Knock Indicator For Leaded Petrol
Engines; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter; Pt.3; Cathode
Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.2.
May 1996: Upgrading The CPU In Your PC; High Voltage Insulation
Tester; Knightrider Bi-Directional LED Chaser; Simple Duplex Intercom
Using Fibre Optic Cable; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.3.
June 1996: BassBox CAD Loudspeaker Software Reviewed; Stereo
Simulator (uses delay chip); Rope Light Chaser; Low Ohms Tester
For Your DMM; Automatic 10A Battery Charger.
July 1996: Installing a Dual Boot Windows System On Your PC;
Build A VGA Digital Oscilloscope, Pt.1; Remote Control Extender For
VCRs; 2A SLA Battery Charger; 3-Band Parametric Equaliser; Single
Channel 8-bit Data Logger.
August 1996: Electronics on the Internet; Customising the Windows
Desktop; Introduction to IGBTs; Electronic Starter For Fluorescent
Lamps; VGA Oscilloscope, Pt.2; 350W Amplifier Module; Masthead
Amplifier For TV & FM; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.4.
September 1996: VGA Oscilloscope, Pt.3; IR Stereo Headphone
Link, Pt.1; High Quality PA Loudspeaker; 3-Band HF Amateur Radio
Receiver; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.5.
October 1996: Send Video Signals Over Twisted Pair Cable; Power
Control With A Light Dimmer; 600W DC-DC Converter For Car Hifi
Systems, Pt.1; IR Stereo Headphone Link, Pt.2; Build A Multi-Media
Sound System, Pt.1; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter, Pt.8.
November 1996: Adding A Parallel Port To Your Computer; 8-Channel
Stereo Mixer, Pt.1; Low-Cost Fluorescent Light Inverter; How To Repair
Domestic Light Dimmers; Build A Multi-Media Sound System, Pt.2;
600W DC-DC Converter For Car Hifi Systems, Pt.2.
June 1999: FM Radio Tuner Card For PCs; X-Y Table With Stepper
Motor Control, Pt.2; Programmable Ignition Timing Module For
Cars, Pt.1; Hard Disk Drive Upgrades Without Reinstalling Software;
What Is A Groundplane Antenna?; Getting Started With Linux; Pt.4.
August 1997: The Bass Barrel Subwoofer; 500 Watt Audio Power
Amplifier Module; A TENs Unit For Pain Relief; Addressable PC Card
For Stepper Motor Control; Remote Controlled Gates For Your Home.
July 1999: Build The Dog Silencer; A 10µH to 19.99mH Inductance
Meter; Build An Audio-Video Transmitter; Programmable Ignition
Timing Module For Cars, Pt.2; XYZ Table With Stepper Motor
Control, Pt.3; The Hexapod Robot.
September 1997: Multi-Spark Capacitor Discharge Ignition; 500W
Audio Power Amplifier, Pt.2; A Video Security System For Your
Home; PC Card For Controlling Two Stepper Motors; HiFi On A
Budget; Win95, MSDOS.SYS & The Registry.
August 1999: Remote Modem Controller; Daytime Running Lights
For Cars; Build A PC Monitor Checker; Switching Temperature
Controller; XYZ Table With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.4; Electric
Lighting, Pt.14; DOS & Windows Utilities For Reversing Protel
PC Board Files.
October 1997: Build A 5-Digit Tachometer; Add Central Locking
To Your Car; PC-Controlled 6-Channel Voltmeter; 500W Audio
Power Amplifier, Pt.3; Customising The Windows 95 Start Menu.
November 1997: Heavy Duty 10A 240VAC Motor Speed Controller;
Easy-To-Use Cable & Wiring Tester; Build A Musical Doorbell; Relocating Your CD-ROM Drive; Replacing Foam Speaker Surrounds;
Understanding Electric Lighting Pt.1.
December 1997: Build A Speed Alarm For Your Car; Two-Axis Robot
With Gripper; Loudness Control For Car Hifi Systems; Stepper
Motor Driver With Onboard Buffer; Power Supply For Stepper Motor
Cards; Understanding Electric Lighting Pt.2; Index To Volume 10.
January 1998: Build Your Own 4-Channel Lightshow, Pt.1 (runs off
12VDC or 12VAC); Command Control System For Model Railways,
Pt.1; Pan Controller For CCD Cameras; Build A One Or Two-Lamp
Flasher; Understanding Electric Lighting, Pt.3.
September 1999: Automatic Addressing On TCP/IP Networks;
Wireless Networking Without The Hassles; Autonomouse The
Robot, Pt.1; Voice Direct Speech Recognition Module; Digital
Electrolytic Capacitance Meter; XYZ Table With Stepper Motor
Control, Pt.5; Peltier-Powered Can Cooler.
October 1999: Sharing A Modem For Internet & Email Access
(WinGate); Build The Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.1;
Semiconductor Curve Tracer; Autonomouse The Robot, Pt.2; XYZ
Table With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.6; Introducing Home Theatre.
November 1999: USB – Hassle-Free Connections TO Your PC;
Electric Lighting, Pt.15; Setting Up An Email Server; Speed Alarm
For Cars, Pt.1; Multi-Colour LED Christmas Tree; Build An Intercom
Station Expander; Foldback Loudspeaker System For Musicians;
Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.2.
February 1998: Hot Web Sites For Surplus Bits; Multi-Purpose Fast
Battery Charger, Pt.1; Telephone Exchange Simulator For Testing;
Command Control System For Model Railways, Pt.2; Build Your Own
4-Channel Lightshow, Pt.2; Understanding Electric Lighting, Pt.4.
December 1999: Internet Connection Sharing Using Hardware;
Electric Lighting, Pt.16; Index To Volume 12; Build A Solar Panel
Regulator; The PC Powerhouse (gives fixed +12V, +9V, +6V & +5V
rails); The Fortune Finder Metal Locator; Speed Alarm For Cars,
Pt.2; Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.3.
April 1998: Automatic Garage Door Opener, Pt.1; 40V 8A Adjustable
Power Supply, Pt.1; PC-Controlled 0-30kHz Sinewave Generator;
Build A Laser Light Show; Understanding Electric Lighting; Pt.6;
Jet Engines In Model Aircraft.
January 2000: Spring Reverberation Module; An Audio-Video Test
Generator; Build The Picman Programmable Robot; A Parallel Port
Interface Card; Off-Hook Indicator For Telephone Lines; B&W
Nautilus 801 Monitor Loudspeakers (Review).
May 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.1; Build A 3-LED Logic
Probe; Automatic Garage Door Opener, Pt.2; Command Control
For Model Railways, Pt.4; 40V 8A Adjustable Power Supply, Pt.2.
February 2000: Build A Multi-Sector Sprinkler Controller; A Digital
Voltmeter For Your Car; An Ultrasonic Parking Radar; Build A
Safety Switch Checker; A Sine/Square Wave Oscillator For Your
Workbench; Marantz SR-18 Home Theatre Receiver (Review); The
“Hot Chip” Starter Kit (Review).
June 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.2; Understanding Electric
Lighting, Pt.7; Universal High Energy Ignition System; The Roadies’
Friend Cable Tester; Universal Stepper Motor Controller; Command
Control For Model Railways, Pt.5.
July 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.3 (Installing A Modem
And Sorting Out Problems); Build A Heat Controller; 15-Watt
Class-A Audio Amplifier Module; Simple Charger For 6V & 12V
SLA Batteries; Automatic Semiconductor Analyser; Understanding
Electric Lighting, Pt.8.
August 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.4 (Adding Extra Memory);
Build The Opus One Loudspeaker System; Simple I/O Card With
Automatic Data Logging; Build A Beat Triggered Strobe; A 15-Watt
Per Channel Class-A Stereo Amplifier.
September 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.5 (Software
Problems & DOS Games); A Blocked Air-Filter Alarm; A WaaWaa Pedal For Your Guitar; Build A Plasma Display Or Jacob’s
Ladder; Gear Change Indicator For Cars; Capacity Indicator For
Rechargeable Batteries.
October 1998: CPU Upgrades & Overclocking; Lab Quality AC Millivoltmeter, Pt.1; PC-Controlled Stress-O-Meter; Versatile Electronic
Guitar Limiter; 12V Trickle Charger For Float Conditions; Adding An
External Battery Pack To Your Flashgun.
November 1998: The Christmas Star (Microprocessor-Controlled
Christmas Decoration); A Turbo Timer For Cars; Build A Poker
Machine, Pt.1; FM Transmitter For Musicians; Lab Quality AC
Millivoltmeter, Pt.2; Setting Up A LAN Using TCP/IP; Understanding Electric Lighting, Pt.9; Improving AM Radio Reception, Pt.1.
March 2000: Doing A Lazarus On An Old Computer; Ultra Low
Distortion 100W Amplifier Module, Pt.1; Electronic Wind Vane
With 16-LED Display; Glowplug Driver For Powered Models; The
OzTrip Car Computer, Pt.1; Multisim Circuit Design & Simulation
Package (Review).
April 2000: A Digital Tachometer For Your Car; RoomGuard – A
Low-Cost Intruder Alarm; Build A Hot wire Cutter; The OzTrip
Car Computer, Pt.2; Build A Temperature Logger; Atmel’s ICE
200 In-Circuit Emulator; How To Run A 3-Phase Induction Motor
From 240VAC.
May 2000: Building the Ultra-LD Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2; Build A
LED Dice (With PIC Microcontroller); A Low-Cost AT Keyboard
Translator (Converts IBM Scan-Codes To ASCII); 50A Motor
Speed Controller For Models; Dolby Headphone – Five Channels
Of Surround Sound; What’s Inside A Furby.
PLEASE NOTE: November 1987 to March 1989, June 1989, August
1989, December 1989, May 1990, February 1991, June 1991, August
1991, February 1992, July 1992, September 1992, November 1992,
December 1992, May 1993, February 1996 and March 1998 are now
sold out. All other issues are presently in stock. For readers wanting
articles from sold-out issues, we can supply photostat copies (or tear
sheets) at $7.00 per article (includes p&p). When supplying photostat
articles or back copies, we automatically supply any relevant notes &
errata at no extra charge. A complete index to all articles published
to date is available on floppy disk for $10 including p&p, or can
be downloaded free from our web site: www.siliconchip.com.au
JULY 2000 89
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Write to: Ask Silicon Chip, PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097.
Volume control for
Plastic Power amplifier
I have brought a kit from Jaycar Electronics for the Plastic Power amplifier
which featured in the April 1996 issue
of SILICON CHIP. It is rated at 175W
into 4Ω loads. I want to put a volume
control on this unit. I have been told
to remove the 1kΩ input resistor from
the board and replace it with a 1kΩ
logarithmic pot. Can you let me know
where the pot is to be installed? (G. T.,
via email).
• The 1kΩ resistor should be left on
the PC board and you should use a
50kΩ pot (not 1kΩ). Connect it the
same way as we have in the Ultra-LD
amplifier in the May 2000 issue.
Erratic readings on
PIC tachometer
I’ve built the tachometer project
in the April 2000 issue. It works fine
when connected to my power supply
and sinewave generator but when
connected to my car’s ignition coil,
the reading was not accurate and the
least significant digit (100s) is always
jumping a few digits.
For example, the reading might be
Engine immobiliser
flattens the battery
I bought the Engine Immobiliser
kit as published in the December
1998 issue of SILICON CHIP and
connected it to my 1997 Barina
Swing. All voltages/currents were
as per the article and the operation
was OK after wiring. However, the
car battery went flat overnight.
I put in a new battery and that
was discharged too. Otherwise the
engine immobiliser seems to work
OK. On the workbench, it draws
only about 150mA intermittently.
The car wiring was done by a
qualified electrician (cost me $200
for the $30 kit!) and is very thor90 Silicon Chip
1200 RPM but it will jump to 1700,
then 1300 then 1200 RPM; not stable
at all. The reading is also higher than
the actual RPM. The length of the wires
connected to the tachometer has been
reduced to only 15cm long. Can you
advise? (T. V., via email).
• You could try increasing the value
of the .056µF capacitor following the
22kΩ ignition coil input resistor. This
will damp down any oscillations from
the ignition coil which may be causing
the high count on the display. Try a
0.1µF capacitor as a first attempt. Reducing the value of the 47kΩ resistor
between pins 3 of IC2a and pin 6 of
IC1 to 22kΩ may also help.
IR remote control
with 30 keys
I was reading about the remote controller for trains in the April 1992 issue
(I know it’s ancient) and I would love
to use the chips you used for infrared
transmission/reception. These are the
MV500, MV601 and the SL486 but I
can’t find them anywhere. I am guessing they have been outdated, so could
you please tell me the chips you would
use for this same type of application
today. I need to have about 30 keys
oughly done. Are there any errors
in the kit? (G. K., Wollstonecraft,
NSW).
• Almost certainly, your Engine
Immobiliser is incorrectly wired
to your vehicle. This is because
the circuit should not draw current
from the battery until the ignition
is switched on. Your current measurements indicate that it is working
correctly.
Check that the supply to the hidden switch, S1, is from the fused
side of the ignition supply and not
from the battery side. In this way,
when you set the ignition immobiliser, current will only be drawn
from the battery when the ignition
is switched on.
on the keypad of the transmitter. (P.
K., via email).
• Have you seen our more recent
design from the October, November
& December 1999 issues? This uses a
cheap remote from Oatley Electronics
and has eight buttons in all. We don’t
know of any chipset which will allow
you to use 30 keys.
Temperature control
for vacuum forming
I want some information on your
240V 5A motor controller kit published in September & November 1992
and also on your heater controller kit
published in the July 1998 issue. I
want to control the temperature on the
heating elements in my home-made
vacuum forming machine. Or do you
have something more suitable? (S. A.,
via email).
• We’re not sure how you wish to
control the heating elements and
whether they run from 240VAC or
not? If they do, the heater controller
described in July 1998, a zero-voltage
switching design, is the right choice.
If you are using a vacuum cleaner
motor to produce the vacuum, the
5A motor controller is suitable; you
can use it for any 240VAC brush-type
motor.
Load requirements for
the Ultra-LD amplifier
In your write-up on the ultra low
distortion amp project in the March &
May 2000 issues you recommend not
using low impedance speaker loads
because of increased distortion caused
by current sharing imbalances in the
output transistors.
One fact you can be sure of in audio
amplifier design is that the output load
will be highly reactive over the audio
frequency range. Even good speaker
designs like the Vaf DC-7 provide a
widely varying load, ranging between
4-17Ω with a nominal impedance of
6Ω. Have a look at http://www.vaf.
com.au/dc7_spec.html
How can we expect your amplifier
design to behave when connected to
such loads? Will distortion be the only
issue or will there be other problems
as well? (M. D., ANU, via email).
• The Ultra-LD will handle nominal
6Ω and 8Ω loads OK but we don’t
recommend 4Ω loads because as you
point out, loudspeaker loads are highly reactive and they can dip to very
low values. We wouldn’t recommend
driving electrostatics either.
Avoid stupidity with
240V speed controller
I seek your advice concerning the
10A 240VAC speed con
troller described in the November 1997 issue
of SILICON CHIP. I have blown several
BUP213s (usually owing to my own
stupidity) and have noticed the aforementioned semiconductor usually
fails before or at the same time as the
10A fuse blows.
Consequently, I have wondered
whether an IGBT upgrade might be
the best option (as my stupidity is
probably a permanent, but fortunately
intermittent, factor!). Since the price of
higher rated IGBTs appears to rise exponentially with their current ratings,
would it not be feasible to connect two
BUP213s in parallel? Of course, some
physical modifications to the layout
would be required, but nothing too
challenging. Would any other component modification be required? (J. B.,
Burragate NSW).
• We are intrigued as to what particular form of stupidity causes the
BUP213 IGBT to blow. If you are
intermittently stalling the power tool
in question, we would expect the
over-current limiting to take care of the
situation. Perhaps you should check
the circuit at low voltage, as described
in the article.
On the other hand, if you are making
some sort of connection to the circuit
while it is powered up, there is always
the risk of blowing the BUP213 and
other parts.
Having said that, the BUP213 can
be upgraded to a BUP314 which is a
larger TO-218 package and has a current rating of 52A rather than 32A for
the BUP213. These are available from
Farnell Components; phone 1300 361
005. We don’t recommend parallel
connection of IGBTs since they will
not share the current equally. In an
overload situation this might mean
Insufficient signal
from reluctor
I have one problem with the
Multi-Spark CDI system described
in the September 1997 issue. I
connected it up to a reluctor from
a Chrysler and there is no output
from the coil. Then I shorted out
the wires for the pickup and got a
spark from the coil. I then tried it
on a Falcon XF with reluctor and it
worked perfectly. The resistance on
the Chrysler pickup is about 460Ω
and on the XF it is about 1.2kΩ.
I looked at the trigger input for
the ignition system featured in the
June 1998 issue and noticed there
was a 2.2kΩ resistor in it but the
equivalent resistor in the September 1997 circuit was 10kΩ. I made
the change anyway but still no go.
There doesn’t seem to be enough
pulse from the Chrysler pickup. Can
I modify the circuit so that it will
work properly? (M. K., via email).
• The reluctor signal is usually
quite substantial at around 30V
peak-to-peak and so the circuit
that you blow one and then the other,
within milliseconds of each other.
Coolant
alarm query
I have built the Coolant Level Alarm
from the June 1994 issue of SILICON
CHIP and I feel that there is a problem
with the connection of the “hot” side
of the indicator lamp. Fig.1 has the
connection between the 33Ω resistor
and the anode of diode D2 but Fig.2
has the 12V and the lamp commoned.
Which one is right? (D. H., via email).
• Fig.2 is right; Fig.1 is wrong. This
was noted in the Errata we published
in the February 1995 issue.
Multipurpose fast battery charger
I’ve built the Multi-Purpose Battery
Charger described in the February and
March 1998 issues and it is not quite
up to spec.
I’ve tried it on a couple of 2.3A.h
12V SLA batteries and the charger
only stays on FAST for about three
seconds before switching to 100%
should operate. The actual resistance of the reluctor coil does not
indicate much since the output is
dependent upon the strength of the
magnet associated with the reluctor,
the number of turns on the coil
and the reluctor gap, as well as the
rotational speed.
The sensitivity of the reluctor
trigger circuit can be increased
by reducing the value of the 47kΩ
resistor at the cathode of ZD5. This
will reduce the level of current
holding Q8 on when there is no
signal from the reluctor. You could
try using a 220kΩ trimpot and adjusting it until the circuit works
or try various values from 68kΩ
to 220kΩ.
The 2.2kΩ resistor you refer to is
used in the collector of the transistor and will not affect the sensitivity
of the reluctor circuit. Either value
could be used here.
By the way, Chryslers are pretty
old now; it is possible that the
reluctor is faulty or you are using
reversed connections to the circuit.
Try swapping the reluctor leads.
even though the battery voltage does
not correspond to the “full” voltage.
At a battery terminal starting voltage
of 11.3V, the voltage across TP CELL
and TP GND is 0.97V/cell but ramps
up quickly during the initial 3-second
period to about 1.8V, before stepping
back to a steady 1.65V during the
100% stage. The charge terminates
some time later but I’m guessing this
issue relates to time-out rather than the
batteries reaching full charge. Admittedly, they are older batteries so this
might well be the problem.
Do you know why the TP CELL voltage for a 12V SLA battery is not equal
to the terminal voltage divided by six
cells? I read something about scaling
it back to a NiCd equivalent. I’ve
downloaded a copy of the application
notes from the Philips semiconductor
site and this reading has prompted a
couple of questions:
(1) Given a 27kΩ Rref resistor on
pin 20 and an 820pF capacitor on
OSC/pin 14, I read from the chart
that the oscillator frequency will be
about 50kHz. This is consistent with
your notes. However, reading across
the chart, I get time-out periods of
JULY 2000 91
600W DC-DC
converter questions
A few years back, I bought the
600W DC-DC converter kit from
Jaycar in Perth and I didn’t have
the time to start on it until recently.
Before I start, I have some questions:
(1) Do I need to upgrade the car’s
alternator to a higher capacity?
My present car is a 1600cc Toyota
Corolla CSI. I think the output of
the alternator is about 70A. (2) Will
there be a surge that will destroy
any of the car’s electronics if I wired
the converter to come on as the ignition is switched on? (3) Is there
45/90/180 minutes or three times the
values that you arrived at. When I ran
the SLA battery described above I had
the switch on 30-minute time-out but
am sure that it was reasonably longer
than this. Am I misinterpreting the
chart?
(2) Given Rb of 3.3kΩ, Rsense of
0.05Ω and Rref of 27kΩ, I calculate an
Ifast of 3A rather than the 6A quoted
in the article. Am I overlooking something here? (P. J., via email).
• Voltage regulation at Vbat (pin 19)
is 1.63V for an SLA battery. Since
the end-point for a 12V SLA battery
is 14.6V, the 0.111 division by the
resistors for the 12V position on S5b
will give 1.6V for the cut-off voltage.
The fact that the voltage on your SLA
batteries reaches 1.8V before dropping
to 1.65V suggests that either the divider
resistors for the 12V position on S5b
are incorrect or the batteries are high
impedance and so faulty.
The timeout period is also set by the
POD voltage at pin 6. This is actually
tied low via a 33kΩ resistor (see over-
any requirement for a slow start
circuit? (4) Do I need to increase
the capacity of my present battery?
(A. W., via email).
• You will not need to upgrade
your alternator unless you are expecting to drive your amplifiers at
full power when all the headlights
and accessories are on. You can
switch the inverter on via the ignition and this was shown on the
circuit.
The car battery should not need
changing since the circuit is intended to operate only when the engine
is running, so as to keep the battery
topped up.
lay diagram) for a divide by 1 selection
and so the 15-minute timeout is set to
about 22 minutes. The timeout is 226 x
tosc x POD x PTD. PTD is set to divide
by 1, 2 or 4 by the selection at pin 7
via switch S2.
The charging current does not follow the formula detailed in the data
sheets because we are using an unfilt
ered DC voltage to charge the battery.
Problem with
TENs unit
I recently built one of your TENS
units (SILICON CHIP, August 1997)
and found it terrific for pain relief for
an inoperable spinal injury I suffered
about 10 years ago. The problem is it
was working fine one day then the next
day it just would not work.
I am in my first year of a diploma
in electronics course in which I have
passed my hand soldering with a 97%
pass mark. I have checked all resistors,
capacitors and diodes and they are
fine, so I was just wondering if there
LE
have been any problems with the units
after they had gone into production?
Alternatively, could you advise me on
where to look for any possible faults?
(J. C., via email).
• The TENS Unit does not appear
to have any particular problems. The
problem with your particular unit
could be with the transformer (T1)
or any other component such as IC1
or IC2, or the Mosfets Q1 and Q2. Or
simply, the batteries may be “flat”.
We suggest you check the operation
of each part of the circuit to isolate
the problem. First, check the voltage
at the drain of Q1 – you should get a
reading of 80V. If this is not present,
check the supply to IC1 at pin 6 (6V).
If this is OK, the windings in T1 may
be shorted or open circuit.
If you do measure 80V, check the
supply to IC2 which should be around
15V. You should also check the output
voltage at the electrodes – this should
give readings up to 40V (as measured
with a DC-reading multi
meter), depending on the pulse width setting.
Lack of output voltage may mean that
IC2 is not operating or that Q1 or Q2
are short circuited.
Further checking can be made with
an oscilloscope. You should obtain
similar displays to those published.
Notes & Errata
RoomGuard Intruder Alarm, April
2000: the 100kΩ resistor at the junction of D1, D2, D4 and pin 9 of IC1
on the circuit on page 31 should be
10kΩ. The wiring diagram on page
32 is correct.
LED Dice, May 2000: LED6 is shown
back to front on the PC board component overlay on page 60. Its cathode
(the flat side) should go towards the
top of the page. The circuit diagram
on page 58 is correct.
SC
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be
carried out according to the instructions in the articles. When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do
not accidentally come into contact with mains AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects
employing mains voltages or other high voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd
disclaims any liability for damages should anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of
SILICON CHIP magazine. Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any
liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims
any liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the Trade
Practices Act 1974 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are applicable.
92 Silicon Chip
ECTRONICSHOWCASELECT
at CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP PRICES!
ICs, LCD Displays,Transistors,
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FOR A FREE MONTHLY MAILER PLEASE CONTACT
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Email: sales<at>rocom.com.au
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• 5 Year Warranty
• Wide range of custom finishes.
• Individually hand built & tested.
1/42-44 Garden Bvde, Dingley 3172
Pyramid subwoofer Ph 03 9558 0970 Fax 03 9558 0082
separately available
email: vass<at>hotkey.net.au
SALE
SURPLUS TEST EQUIPMENT
HANDBOOKS & SERVICE MANUALS
STORE ADDRESS: 56 RENVER ROAD, CLAYTON VIC. 3168
POSTAL ADDRESS: BAG 620 CLAYTON SOUTH, VIC. 3169
PH (03) 9543 7877 FAX (03) 9543 4871
ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS
Do you want
YOUR product
or service
showcased to
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marketplace?
CALL ME: RICK WINKLER
on (02) 9979 5644
and let me explain how cost effective
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SHOWCASE can be for YOU!
Frequency Counters,CRO’s,
PSU’s, Generators, DVM’s, etc,
by HP, Tektronix, Fluke and others.
Details at:
www.rall.com.au
email: rall<at>tpg.com.au
RALL ELECTRONICS
MicroZed Computers
GENUINE STAMP PRODUCTS
FROM
Scott Edwards Electronics
microEngineering Labs & others
Easy to learn, easy to use, sophisticated
CPU based controllers & peripherals.
PO Box 634, ARMIDALE 2350
(296 Cook’s Rd)
Ph (02) 6772 2777 – may time out to
Mobile 0409 036 775 Fax (02) 6772 8987
http://www.microzed.com.au
Most Credit Cards OK
Power line and phone/data filters from
AUSTEL and ELECTRICITY AUTHORITY APPROVED
Phone-line and mains-borne voltage spikes can damage or destroy your valuable data, computer components and even whole computer systems and networks in less than a heartbeat!
Can you afford to be without your system? Can you afford to lose weeks of work or precious records? PowerQwest Technologies can help prevent a disaster with a range of power line
and telephone line filters designed to stop voltage spikes before they stop you! Here are two from the wide range available:
PowerQwest Zapcatcher
PowerQwest Teleswitch
Suppresses power line surges and
spikes to huge 6500A pk (8x 20s)
plus 40dB of mains noise
suppression
Suppression plus music muting
system which cuts power on one
outlet (eg to an amplifier) when
phone rings.
SURPLUS
4x 10A protected outlets
10A thermal circuit breaker
Visual warning indication lights
PowerQwest Technologies products are
available from better computer stores, office
products suppliers and department stores.
Reseller enquiries to:
4x 10A protected outlets
RJ-12 protected phone sockets
10A thermal circuit breaker
Phone (02) 9979 4811
Fax (02) 9979 4833
Engineers, technicians, electronics enthusiasts,
What can make your job easier?
Freezer Spray, Dust Off, Circuit Board Cleaner,
Heat Sink Compound...
Chemical Technology
Contact us for your products guide and distributors list
Richard Foot Pty Ltd PO Box 245, Terrey Hills NSW 2084. Tel 02 9979 8311 Fax 02 9979 6098
MARKET CENTRE
Cash in your surplus gear. Advertise it here in Silicon Chip.
FRWEEBE
YES!
Place your classified advertisement in
SILICON CHIP Market Centre and your
advert will also appear FREE in the
Classifieds-on-the-Web page of the
SILICON CHIP website,
www.siliconchip.com.au
And if you include an email address or
your website URL in you classified advert, the
links will be LIVE in your classified-on-the-web!
S!
D
E
I
F
I
S
C LAS
EXCLUSIVE TO SILICON CHIP!
CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING RATES
Advertising rates for this page: Classified ads: $11.00 (incl. GST) for up to 12
words plus 55 cents for each additional word. Display ads: $27.50 (incl. GST) per
column centimetre (max. 10cm). Closing date: five weeks prior to month of sale.
To run your classified ad, print it clearly in the space below or on a separate
sheet of paper, fill out the form & send it with your cheque or credit card details
to: Silicon Chip Classifieds, PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097. Or fax the details
to (02) 9979 6503.
Taxation Invoice ABN 49 003 205 490
_____________ _____________ _____________ _____________ _____________
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Signature ________________________ Card expiry date______/______
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94 Silicon Chip
FOR SALE
RAIN BRAIN AND DIGI-TEMP KITS:
8-station sprinkler controllers. New
Digi-temp and Moni-temp use DS1820
sensors. Feature PC data logging, 60
channels over 500 metres.
www.mantismicroproducts.com.au
ELECTRONIC/MECHANICAL DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION: we
offer a complete design service for
electronic and mechanical devices.
Most work is done in house and you
deal directly with the designers. No job
is too small and can be to prototype or
“turn key” stage, in one offs or for future
production. Simply send us an email at
vladimir<at>u030.aone.net.au with your
questions or requirements and we will
get back to you.
COVERT VIDEO SURVEILLANCE.
Tiny Sub-Matchbox size Wireless Video
& Audio TRANSMITTERS from $72 *
Pinhole Cameras from $59. Easily
concealed in: Mobile Phone Case,
Clock, VCR Cassette, Toys, Teddy
Bear (Nanny-Cam), Smoke Detector,
Ornament, Cap, Cigarette Pack, etc.
allthings.com.au 08 9349 9413.
WEATHER STATIONS: Windspeed &
direction, inside temperature, outside
temperature & windchill. Records highs
& lows with time and date as they occur.
$420.00 complete plus sales tax if appli
cable. Optional rainfall and PC interface.
Used by Government Departments,
farmers, pilots, and weather enthusiasts.
Other models with barometric pressure,
humidity, dew point, solar radiation, UV,
leaf wetness, etc. Just phone, fax or
write for our FREE catalogue and price
list. Solar Flair/Ecowatch ph: (03) 5968
4863 fax: (03) 5968 5810, PO Box 18,
Emerald, Vic., 3782. ACN 006 399 480.
KITS KITS AND MORE KITS! Check
‘em out at www.ozitronics.com
C COMPILERS: everything you need
to develop C and ASM software for
68HC08, 6809, 68HC11, 68HC12, 68
HC16, 8051/52, 8080/85, 8086, 8096
or AVR: $155.00 each. Macro Cross
Assemblers and Disassemblers for
above CPUs + 6800/01/03/05, 6502
and 68HC12 for $78. Debug monitors:
$78 for 6 CPUs. All compilers, XASMs
and monitors: $480. 8051/52 Simulator (fast, now incl. 80C320): $78. Try
the C-FLEA Virtual Machine for small
CPUs, build a “C-Stamp”. Demo desk:
FREE. All prices + $5 p&p.
Atmel Flash CPU Programmer: Handles the 89Cx051, 89C5x and 89Sxx
series, and the new AVRs in both DIP
and PLCC44. Also does most 8-pin
EEPROMs. Includes socket for serial
ISP cable. $199, $37 tax, $10 p&p.
SOIC adaptors: 20-pin $90, 14-pin
$85, 8-pin $80. Credit cards accepted.
GRAN
TRONICS PTY LTD, PO Box
275, Wentworthville 2145. Ph (02) 9896
7150; Fax (02) 9631 1236; or Internet:
http://www.grantronics.com.au
VIDEO CAMERAS: DOME COLOUR
only $90 ! Mono only $63 ! BULLET
only $110 ! with 2 YEAR WARRANTY * DOME: 480 Line 0.05 Lux with
SONY CCD & ChipSet only $95 *
380 Line $92 * 450 Line $117 with 5
YEAR WARRANTY & BLEMISH FREE
CCD * COLOUR DOME: 400 Line DSP
$177 * BETTER THAN SUPER-VHS
Resolution 600 + Line DSP $192 *
450 Line $186 * 440 Line $215 with 5
YEAR WARRANTY & BLEMISH FREE
CCD * PINHOLE IN PIR DETECTOR
$144 * COLOUR DSP PIN in PIR CASE
$189 * MINI CAM: $87 * 420 Line $108
with 5 YEAR WARRANTY & BLEMISH
FREE CCD * DSP COLOUR $172 *
4 Ch Switcher $101 * QUAD 1024
H-Pixels $226 * COLOUR QUAD $521
* Auto Scanner $147 * REMOTE PAN &
TILT $312 * TX BOOSTER 1 Watt $189
* DIGITAL PC VIDEO RECORDER
SOFTWARE & PCI CARD from $119
* MULTIPLEXER 4 Ch $832 * REMOTE
DIAL-UP, PAGING, WEB-CAM S/W &
PCI CARD $239 * PINHOLE MODULES $77 * COLOUR DSP $165 * DIY
PLUG-IN 20 metre AV Cable Sets only
$30 ! UP TO 5 YEARS WARRANTY *
DISCOUNTS * www.allthings.com.
au * 08 9349 9413
SOLAR PANELS: 120 watt $995.00,
80 watt $650.00, 60 watt $510.00, 40
watt $395.00 (all with 25 year guarantee). UNBREAKABLE PANELS:
64 watt $550.00, 42 watt $420.00,
32 watt $340.00, 11 watt $190.00, 5
watt $120.00, 1.25 watt $80.00. WIND
ROLA Australia (08) 8270 3175
www.bettanet.net.au/GTD
Silvertone’s RC Receiver
Still the best little performer available!
MP3-CD Player: $699
Plays standard CDs & MP3s
as well.
Plays MP3 CDs made with a
CD writer.
Up to 2200 songs per CD.
Car adapter available.
ROLA 15U & 15UX: $325
Size: 15" (380mm).
Freqency response: 30-3,000Hz
(15U); 30-12,000Hz (15UX).
Power handling: 250 watts RMS.
SPL: 97db/1 metre.
FS (resonant frequency) 30Hz.
Satellite TV Reception
International satellite TV reception in
your home is now
affordable. Send for
your free info pack
containing equipment
catalog, satellite lists, etc or call for
appointment to view. We can display
all satellites from 76.5° to 180°.
Still only $129.50 AM or $149.50 FM.
May be used with most ppm transmitters. This and many other radio control
products available from:
Silvertone Electronics, PO Box 580,
Riverwood 2210.
Phone/Fax (02) 9533 3517.
www.silvertone.com.au
AV-COMM P/L, 24/9 Powells Rd,
Brookvale, NSW 2100.
Tel: 02 9939 4377 or 9939 4378.
Fax: 9939 4376; www.avcomm.com.au
Need prototype PC boards?
We have the solutions – we print electronics!
Four-day turnaround, less if urgent; Artwork from your own
positive or file; Through hole plating; Prompt postal service; 29
years technical experience; Inexpensive; Superb quality.
Printed Electronics, 12A Aristoc Rd,
Glen Waverley, Vic 3150.
Phone: (03) 9545 3722; Fax: (03) 9545 3561
Call Mike Lynch and check us out!
We are the best for low cost, small runs.
GENERATORS: 400 watt $950.00.
INVERTERS: sinewave inverters, inverter/chargers, mod. Sinewave inverters, call with requirements. AUSTRALIA
WIDE DELIVERY (Free on orders over
$500.00). TASMAN ENERGY: (03)
6362 3050 Fax (03) 6362 3054.
TELEPHONE EXCHANGE SIMULATOR, SC February 1998. Test equipment without the cost of telephone lines.
Melbourne 9806 0110.
RCS HAS MOVED to 41 Arlewis St,
Chester Hill 2162 and is now open,
with full production soon. Tel 9738 0330;
Circuit Ideas Wanted
Do you have a good circuit idea?
We pay up to $60 for contributions
to Circuit Notebook.
Silicon Chip Publications, PO
Box 139, Collaroy, 2097.
Positions At Jaycar
We are often looking for enthusiastic staff
for positions in our retail stores and head
office at Rhodes in Sydney. A genuine
interest in electronics is a necessity. Phone
02 9743 5222 for current vacancies.
Fax 9738 0334. rcsradio<at>cia.com.au;
www.cia.com.au/rcsradio
DIY CCTV PAKS
4 Cameras & Switcher $315
as above COLOUR $419
4 Cams, Switcher/Monitor $433
as above 14" Monitor $461
4 Cams, QUAD & Monitor $602
as above 14" Monitor $630
4 COLOUR & QUAD $797
MORE at: allthings.com.au Also Fully Plug-In DIY Paks with all Cables
& Power Supplies PLUS PC Digital
Motion / Sound detection & activated
Video / Audio Recording systems 08
9349 9413.
WANTED
PERSON WITH EXPERIENCE / APTITUDE able to fault find & repair PCBs
– without diagrams. GENEROUS PKG
NEG. Tel John<at>AER (03) 9482 4958
0415 305 470.
JULY 2000 95
Silicon Chip Binders
Keep your copies safe, secure and
always available with SILICON CHIP
binders: they’re cheap insurance!
Advertising Index
Altronics.........................................9
REAL
VALUE
AT
$12.95
PLUS P
&P
Heavy board covers with
2-tone green vinyl covering
Av-Comm Pty Ltd.........................95
EMC Technologies.......................93
4D Systems.................................17
Harbuch Electronics....................75
Each binder holds up to 14
issues so that you can include
catalogs
Instant PCBs................................95
SILICON CHIP logo printed
in gold-coloured lettering on
spine & cover
Kits-R-Us.....................................95
Price: $12.95 (includes GST)
plus $5 p&p each (available
Aust. only). Price includes GST.
MicroZed Computers...................93
Jaycar ................................... 45-52
Microgram Computers..............3,41
Oatley Electronics.................. 68-69
Order by phoning (02) 9979 5644 & quoting your credit card number;
or fax the details to (02) 9979 6503; or mail your order with cheque or
credit card details to Silicon Chip Publications, PO Box 139, Collaroy,
NSW 2097.
PowerQwest ...............................93
Premier Batteries.......................IFC
Printed Electronics...................... 95
Questronix...................................79
DON’T MISS
THE ’BUS
Do you feel left behind by the latest
advances in computer technology? Don’t
miss the bus: get the ’bus!
Includes articles on troubleshooting your
PC, installing and setting up computer
networks, hard disk drive upgrades,
clean installing Windows 98, CPU
upgrades, a basic introduction to Linux
plus much more.
Rall Electronics............................93
Rockby Electronics................ 28-29
www.siliconchip.com.au
SILICON
CHIP’S
132 Pages
$ 95 *
9
ISBN 0 95852291 X
9780958522910 09
09
9
780958
522910
COMPUTER
OMNIBUS
Rocom Electronics.......................93
R.T.N............................................57
Silicon Chip Back Issues....... 88-89
Silicon Chip Binders....................96
IN
LI CLUDE
FEA NU S
TUR X
E
Silicon Chip Bookshop........... 86-87
SC Computer Omnibus...............78
A collection of computer features from the pages of SILICON
CHIP magazine
Silicon Chip Subscriptions...........53
o Hints o Tips o
Upgrades o Fixes
Covers DOS, Windows 3.1, 95, 98, NT NO
W
AVA
DIRE ILABLE
C
SILIC T FROM
ON
just $ CHIP
125
ORDER NOW: Use the handy order form in this issue or call
(02) 9979 5644, 8.30-5.30 Mon-Fri with your credit card details.
RT
INC
O
P&P
Note: price includes the GST.
SC EFI Tech Special..................IBC
Silvertone Electronics..................95
Smart Fastchargers.....................43
Solar Flair/Ecowatch....................94
Telephone Technical Services.....55
Truscott’s Electronic World...........43
Vass Electronics..........................93
HELP SAVE THE NIGHT SKY!
We are losing our heritage of starry night skies. Poor, inefficient
outdoor lighting is causing glare and “light pollution”. This wastes
energy and increases greenhouse gas emissions.
You can help by joining SYDNEY OUTDOOR LIGHTING IMPROVEMENT SOCIETY (SOLIS). SOLIS aims to educate and inform about
quality outdoor lighting and its benefits. We also lobby councils, government and other bodies to promote good lighting practice. SOLIS meetings
are held third Monday night of each month at Sydney Observatory.
Individual membership is $20 pa. Donations are also welcome. Cheques payable
to “SOLIS c/- NSAS”, PO Box 214, West Ryde 2114.
Email: tpeters<at>pip.elm.mq.edu.au
96 Silicon Chip
Wiltronics.....................................73
Yokogawa....................................79
_____________________________
PC Boards
Printed circuit boards for SILICON
CHIP projects are made by:
• RCS Radio Pty Ltd. Phone 0408-
613-300.
• Marday Services, PO Box 19-189,
Avondale, Auckland, NZ. Phone (09)
828 5730.
Own an EFI car?
Want to get the
best from it?
Youll find all you
need to know in
this publication
|