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Contents
Vol.13, No.5; May 2000
FEATURES
4 What’s Inside A Furby?
A lot of smart electronics, that’s what. We peel back the fur and take a peek
inside. And if you want to start hacking, there’s lots of web sites to look at –
by Julian Edgar
34 Dolby Headphone: Five Channels Of Surround Sound
Just how do you get five channels from normal stereo headphones? An Australian company, Lake Technology Ltd, made it happen – by Leo Simpson
Building The Ultra-LD Stereo
Amplifier – Page 16.
PROJECTS TO BUILD
16 Building The Ultra-LD Stereo Amplifier; Pt.2
It fits nicely inside an ATX computer tower case, complete with a fan-cooled
tunnel heatsink plus selector switch and volume control – by Leo Simpson
56 Build A LED Dice
A PIC microcontroller makes the circuit really simple. We tell you how it was
designed and show you how to build it – by Doug Jackson
72 A Low-Cost AT Keyboard Translator
This low-cost project takes the complex scan codes from a PC keyboard
and spits out standard ASCII codes. It’s just the shot for use with the BASIC
Stamp and PIC series of microcontrollers but has lots of other uses as well –
by Steve Carroll & Bob Nicol
LED Dice –
Page 56.
78 50A Motor Speed Controller For Models
It fits in a tiny plastic case, can handle motor currents up to 50A and is compatible with existing radio control gear – by Ross Tester & Branco Justic
SPECIAL COLUMNS
40 Serviceman’s Log
When is a fault not a fault – by the TV Serviceman
64 Vintage Radio
Keyboard
Translator –
Page 72.
Making the obsolete useful again – by Rodney Champness
DEPARTMENTS
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53
Publisher’s Letter
Mailbag
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Electronics Showcase
Ask Silicon Chip
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Advertising Index
50A Motor Speed Controller –
Page 78.
May 2000 1
PUBLISHER’S LETTER
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2 Silicon Chip
Do-it-yourself amplifiers:
a new approach
This month we have taken quite a different
approach to the construction of a high-performance amplifier, starting on page 16. As
indicated in the March 2000 issue, we have
housed the amplifier in a computer case
rather than a conventional amplifier chassis. We have taken this approach for two
reasons. First, custom metalwork for large
projects like stereo amplifiers is now quite
expensive and is the major cost in a kit for
a project like this. Second, there are tens of
thousands of computer cases going begging
as people upgrade to ever faster machines.
These computer cases are often beautifully
made and I hate the thought of them being wasted, as so many of them are.
Admittedly, we did not actually recycle a case for this project because we
decided that the case we had in mind was a bit tatty and might not photograph
all that well. But I hope you will agree that the finished project really does
look the part and shows what can be done. Of course, if you don’t like the
idea of a beige computer case, you can always check the spray paint shelves
at your local auto accessory shop – fancy a metallic gold finish?
By the way, I apologise to all those readers who were disappointed about
the article not appearing in April but the sheer size of the article and the
number of detailed diagrams prevented it happening in time. I hope you find
that the wait was worthwhile. If you have comments on the presentation,
don’t hesitate to drop us a line, by email or conventional mail.
The Dolby Headphone story
Another unusual story in this month’s issue is the feature on Dolby
Headphone. When I first read about Dolby Headphone it sounded like an
April Fool story, except that it wasn’t April. Until you hear the simulation
of five channels of surround sound on headphones it is just not possible to
conceive that it works but it certainly does.
The really gratifying aspect of this story is that the whole process was
developed by a small Australian company, Lake Technology Ltd, based in
Sydney. And not only have they licensed the concept to Dolby but they
have taken it to the airlines as well and if you travel overseas on Qantas or
Singapore Airlines you will experience recent release movies with Dolby
Headphone surround sound – a big feather in their caps.
In fact, this story gives the lie to the recent softness in the Australian dollar
which has been ascribed to overseas currency dealers regarding Australia as
an “old economy” not strong in new technology. What rubbish! These people
wouldn’t know where to look when it comes to old or new technology and
they are just not aware of how Australian companies are “punching well
above their weight” on world markets.
And when it comes to companies adopting new technology to obtain
productivity benefits, Australian companies are generally far ahead of their
counterparts in the USA or Europe – but the currency dealers wouldn’t
know about that!
Leo Simpson
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There’s a lot of smart electronics
INSIDE A FURBY
There’s some very smart
electronic technology hidden
beneath the cute fur-covered
exterior of a Furby. So let’s
peel back the fur and take a
look at what’s inside.
in response to the preferences of the child who owns it.
Yes, the Furby can adaptively learn! Throw in a spoken
vocabulary of 160 words (capable of being incorporated
into no less than 1000 different phrases), the ability of
Furbys to automatically communicate with one another
via an inbuilt infrared port and then consider the retail
cost – around $69 in Australia and just US$30 in the
United States!
It’s state-of-the-art in a very unassuming package indeed.
By JULIAN EDGAR
The Furby is a fur-covered pseudo-animal with fixed
feet and a movable mouth, ears, and eyes. In addition,
the Furby can rock forward on its base platform. The
movable parts of the toy are mechanically driven by an
internal electric motor (more on this in a moment) which
The subject of a child’s toy might seem to be a strange
choice for an electronics magazine like SILICON CHIP.
But as you’ll soon see, it isn’t. Packed inside a Furby’s
130mm-high furry body is an amazing complexity of
mechanical and electronic components – and software.
Unconvinced? How’s this then – the software boasts
the ability to actually change the toy’s output behaviour
4 Silicon Chip
The toy
TOP OF PAGE: Furbys come in different colours but internally they are all the same. A smart package of electronics
and mechanicals, the Furby shows that not all electronic
advances are confined to the esoteric.
Furby, stripped of his furry coat and internal plastic
carapace. Located between the eyes are the light sensor
(centre) and a pair of infrared transmitter and receiver
LEDs. Furbys can automatically communicate with one
another via this infrared link.
operates the eyelids, opens and closes the mouth, and
waggles the ears up and down. Also hidden under the
fur are press-switches on the front and back and a switch
inside the mouth that is triggered whenever the mouth
is opened manually.
A big factor in the toy’s success is its language skills,
with an internal speaker able to clearly communicate
“spoken” words and phrases. There are also additional
inputs and outputs but more about these later.
A short description of the toy doesn’t do it justice; it
is the way in which it works which is so interesting. For
example, as I write, my Furby (yes, I bought one as part of
the research for this story!) is “asleep”. How do I know?
– well, it made snoring noises, then rocked forward and
closed its eyes.
Loud noises or changes in light or other stimuli will
not wake it. To rouse the beast, it must be picked up and
tilted to trigger an internal tilt switch. By the way, early
Furbys were apparently much harder to put to sleep,
requiring a certain sequence of events including lots of
pats on the back. However, Furby manufacturer Tiger
There are entire websites devoted to Furbys and hacking
techniques. One of the best is “Blank Frank’s Furby
Stimulation Page” at www.veg.nildram.co.uk/furby.htm
This photo shows just how jam-packed Furby is inside.
A semicircular PC board is located just above the battery
box, with the mechanical module mounted on top of that.
The sound-sensing microphone is hanging on its lead
closest to the camera.
Electronics Ltd changed the design, fearing a backlash
from exasperated parents. Furby doesn’t have an on/off
switch, you see.
As an example of its behaviour, I have just picked up
This website at http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/
Pines/7438/furby.html includes a program that lets you
record, save and play back a Furby’s infrared signals.
May 2000 5
In this view, the horizontal axis camshaft can be seen,
with plastic cranks moved by the cam lobes connecting to
the eyes, ears and mouth. The cam position switch is
located in the middle of this picture, with the reset switch
at the bottom. The wiring harness is held in place with
many globs of hot-melt glue.
the toy and it has said “Mmmmmmm, me love you”.
However, the last time I roused it from its sleep, it said
“Sun’s up”. This lack of predictability in response to
stimuli lifts the personality realism to a totally different
plane compared to most toys. When woken it may have
alternatively said, “Me sleep again” or “Cock a doodle
do, big light”! Or it might have sneezed, giggled, or made
one of many other sounds.
Each Furby picks its own name from its available list of
sounds (mine says “Me Too Loo”) and individual Furbys
have differently pitched voices. If left unstimulated for a
few minutes (no noises, no changes in light intensity, or no
switches pressed), a Furby will sometimes say “Mmmmm
– boring!”. If still ignored, it will go to sleep. When taken
for a ride in a car, a Furby will say “Wheeeeee!” whenever
the car corners and suggest that it wants to play hide and
seek when the intensity of the light suddenly changes.
Holding it upside down will initially provoke giggles,
changing sometimes to “I’m scared” if it is held in this
position for too long.
Games
There are several games built into the toy. For exam6 Silicon Chip
ple, to place a Furby into the “Hide and Seek” mode, the
light sensor located between the eyes needs to be covered
and uncovered three times and then the front pressure
switch activated (“tummy tickled” in Furby-speak). The
beast then needs to be hidden within a minute, following
which it will be quiet for three minutes. Once this time
has elapsed it will start saying “nah, nah, nah” at intervals
until it is found.
When batteries are first inserted into it, a Furby speaks
no English words or phrases. Instead it speaks in “Furbish” and a dictionary with 44 entries lists the English
translations. However, after a few hours of stimulation,
the toy starts to speak some English and after a day or
two, it speaks mostly English. Note, however, that English
words are not actually being learned; instead, it would
appear that after Furbish phrases and words have been
“spoken” a set number of times, that word or phrase is
replaced by English.
The developmental stage that the Furby has reached
is maintained when the batteries are changed. However,
there is a reset mechanism that can be activated to return
a Furby to infanthood!
If a Furby initiates a pattern of behaviour (for example,
it makes kissing sounds when the front “tickle” switch is
activated), patting it on the back (ie, activating the rear
switch twice) will reinforce this behaviour. Consequently,
individual Furbys can adopt slightly different behaviours
on the basis of their owner’s preferences.
So you can see that, from a child’s perspective, a Furby
is a very attractive toy indeed. It has a distinct personality
(sometimes with negative character traits like belching
and breaking wind!), initially has its own language but
soon learns English, and has its own demands – if it isn’t
fed, a Furby becomes ill and sneezes a lot. It’s easy to see
why Furbys have become so popular.
The mechanicals
As mentioned earlier, an internal motor is used to drive
the movable parts of a Furby. This reversible DC motor is
mounted to one side of a “movement module” which is
positioned inside the top half of the toy. The motor drives
a series of reduction spur gears which rotate a worm drive.
A 40mm diameter
speaker is used. It is
capable of quite clear
reproduction.
The worm drive, in turn, acts on a large cog attached to a
shaft which has series of cam lobes. These lobes bear on
connecting rods that move the eyelids, mouth and ears
and rock the Furby backwards and forwards.
Rotating the shaft in a single direction causes each
moving part to be operated in sequence. However, because each movable item has its own cam and they are
each arranged such that their lobe centre angles do not
overlap one another, each movable item can be operated
independently if the camshaft is rotated back and forth
within a narrow rotational angle. For example, during
“dancing” (where the Furby rocks back and forth), the
shaft is rotated so that only the rocking motion lobe is
operated. This position of the camshaft behaves as a “dead
spot” for the lobes that drive the eyelids and ears – so
during dancing, the eyes and ears stay still.
Because the main worm drive cannot transmit torque
in the opposite direction (eg, the motor cannot be turned
by moving the ears), a slip mechanism is built into each
movable body part. This allows these parts to be manually
moved without causing damage.
The motor uses sprung copper leaves to transfer power
to the commutator. Carbon brushes aren’t used – instead
there appears to be some type of conductive grease spread
over the relevant area. This probably explains the strong
“electric motor” smell that occurs if the toy has been
operating continuously (eg, by being held upside down)
for some time.
The main PC board contains most of the electronic
circuit-ry. The position sensor is at top-left, while two
daughter boards (each with a custom COB
microprocessor) are located at left.
The electronics comprises a main, double-sided PC
board with surface mount and conventional components
on it. Additionally, there are two small daughter PC
boards mounted on the main board at rightangles, each
carrying a custom COB microcontroller. Serial data is
transferred between these two microcontrollers, which
are run at 3.58MHz.
A 1K 93C46 non-volatile EEPROM is mounted on the
main board and this probably contains Furby’s name, developmental state and adaptive memory. It would appear
that a separate chip is solely responsible for generating
the sound output – perhaps this approach has been taken
to allow easy implementation of Furbys that speak other
languages.
The system’s inputs and sensors are as follows:
(1) A reset switch (located adjacent to the battery compartment under the toy);
(2) A back switch (senses back pats);
(3) A front switch (senses tickling);
(4) A cam position sensor (consists of a small leaf switch);
(5) A gear speed sensor consisting of a LED which shines
at a receptor through four slots cut in a black plastic gear;
(6) A ball tilt switch (used to detect level, tilt and upside
down orientations);
(7) A light sensor positioned behind a panel between
the eyes;
(8) An infrared receiver LED (positioned near the light
sensor); and
(9) A feed sensor consisting of a microswitch behind
the mouth.
The outputs are as follows:
What do you do if your Furby “dies”? Tie a toe-tag to him
and conduct a thorough autopsy of course. You can find
out the cause of Toh Loo-Kah’s untimely death on http://
www.phobe.com/furby/cause.html
Furby includes an infrared port for communicating with
other Furby’s and can often be tricked into responding to
IR remote controls. There’s lots of information on this at
http://www.homestead.com/hackfurby/files/FURBYIR.html
The electronics
May 2000 7
while a pair of diodes is used to provide 5.3V and 4.8V
rails for the rest of the circuitry.
Infrared communications
The microprocessors are “blob” types, custom-made for
this application. With the Furby manufactured literally by
the million, this approach is very cost effective.
The small reversible DC motor works hard for its living;
if the toy is used for extended periods a strong “electric
motor” smell is emitted!
(1) A loudspeaker (40mm diameter with clear plastic
cone);
(2) An infrared transmitter LED (positioned near the light
sensor in the forehead); and
(3) Motor forward and reverse operations.
The motor is driven at battery voltage (6V nominal)
One interesting aspect of the toy is its ability to use
infrared transmissions to communicate with other Furbys. Furbys can normally communicate with each other
when placed in close proximity, although my sample
Furby steadfastly refused to communicate with another
Furby whose access was arranged for just that purpose.
Apparently, they are capable of transferring colds (the
healthy Furby starts to sneeze as well) and developmental
stages – a Furby can speak more English after being in
contact with a more advanced Furby!
For the hackers, the infrared port also allows another
pursuit – fooling Furby into doing odd things by stimulating it with foreign infrared signals! IR-emitting devices
that people have used for confusing Furbys include PC
IRDA ports, purpose-built standalone Furby IR transmitters, the Palm III handheld computer with OmniRemote
software, TV and VCR remote controls and even a Nokia
9110 mobile phone!
If you want to find out how to do this, refer to the websites listed at the end of this article – that’s right, there are
entire websites devoted to Furbys and hacking techniques.
Take a look at “Blank Frank’s Furby Stimulation Page”
(www.veg.nildram.co.uk/furby.htm), for example. Among
other things, he shows you how to control a Furby using
a computer’s IRDA port.
What, no IRDA port? Blank Frank’s got that covered as
well, with a simple circuit that you can build yourself.
For the technically-minded, Furbys communicate using
IR pulses approximately 150-200ms wide with a bit time
of 2ms. The communication packets consist of nine bits
sent six times, with silence between each set of nine bits,
giving a repeat rate of about 100ms. The nine bits consist
of a start bit, four data bits and then the same four data
bits inverted. There are 16 different signals that can be
communicated.
Conclusion
A few years ago a self-learning toy that talked, communicated “intelligently” with other toys of the same
type and contained internal software that gave a very real
sim-ulation of “personality” would have been the stuff
of dreams – especially at this price! It shows that not all
SC
electronic advances are confined to esoteric areas.
There’s Lots More Info On The Furby On These Websites
Much of the information for this article was derived from the many websites devoted to the history, dissection, hacking and electronics of the Furby. These sites include:
(1) http://www.veg.nildram.co.uk/furby.htm
(2) http://www.blueneptune.com/~maznliz/marius/furby.shtml
(3) http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Pines/7438/furby.html
(4) http://ai.tqn.com/compute/ai/library/weekly/aa101398.htm
(5) http://www.wired.com/wired/archive/6.09/furby_pr.html
(6) http://www.homestead.com/hackfurby/files/FURBYIR.html
(7) http://freeload.homestead.com/_ksi0701961574651052/hackfurby/files/furby.pdf
(8) http://www.phobe.com/furby/faq2.html
8 Silicon Chip
May 2000 9
MAILBAG
Computers should
be turned off
I agree with your Publisher’s
Letter in the January 2000 issue
on the issue of turning computer
equipment off. Running at elevated temperatures reduces the
lifetimes of equipment. In fact I
thought that the manufacturers
establish the MTBF of new equipment by running a sample of units
at elevated temperature, noting the
failure rate and extrapolating the
expected lifetime from that data.
I have dimmers installed on
several of my room lights at home
and I rarely have the lights up full
and the light bulbs rarely blow. I
was once told that if you run an
incandescent light at about one
third of its rated voltage its lifetime is indefinite.
Equipment often fails at turnon but that doesn’t mean that it
failed solely due to power cycling.
Sure, the final power-up broke
the camel’s back but not without
the effects of ageing accumulated
through various means.
Just last year I was asked to
repair the power supply of a
work-station that had not worked
after a power down. It was fairly
old and inspection showed that
the filter capacitor in the switcher
was as dry as a bone; in fact, the
can rattled on its innards.
This did not occur through power cycling; it was caused by years
of running in a hot environment
and when the unit was eventually
switched off, it couldn’t handle
the stress of being turned back on.
I always turn my PCs off if I am
leaving the house for more than
30 minutes and when I go to bed.
Nor do I leave my PC on at work
when I go home. At the same time I
don’t think it is good to be cycling
the power unnecessarily, so if I
am working on a PC that I have to
power up and down frequently I
try to connect the monitor so it is
always on. I also reckon it is false
economy to turn the room lights
off but leave the computer on, as
10 Silicon Chip
most PCs use more power than
the lights. If a PC is not going to
be used overnight then it should
be turned off.
Another issue with PCs left
running is the fan. The bearings
tend to dry out and seize, then
the temperature can rise beyond
the endurance of parts and they
start dying.
There is always a risk of fire
when electrical equipment is left
turned on. Just a few years ago
I heard in the news of a woman
who died in Melbourne in a house
fire started by a faulty monitor.
I expect that the risk of this is
probably quite low, especially
with equipment made by reputable manufacturers, however
we should not ignore the consequences.
In the end we need to strike
a balance: we need to get good
lifetime from the equipment and
we need to not waste energy for
several reasons. I think that if you
turn your PC on you should leave
it on for an hour, and if you are
not going to use if for a couple of
hours, then turn it off.
One should also bear in mind
that on hot days a PC would make
the room less comfortable but it
can help warm a cold room in
winter.
Stipulating that PCs should be
left on all the time is a simplistic
approach; one that can prove fatal
in extreme cases.
P. Denniss,
Sydney, NSW.
Neons don’t like
the dark
I noted the letter in “Ask Silicon
Chip” in the April issue about an
electric fence tester which works
only when there is some ambient
light. For some time now, I have
been intending to write a short
note about this problem, or rather
the basis of it.
When we moved to our present
address, in late 1966, there were
no street lights. I was working
night shift and noticed that sometimes the fluorescent light in the
bathroom failed to light until I
turned on a battery-powered torch.
Eventually, I came to recognise
that it was only under very dark
conditions that the fluorescent
light failed to strike.
Later, I noticed that the neon
indicator on the controller for an
electric blanket showed much the
same phenomenon. The blanket
was a commercially-produced
device with a “thermostat” and a
neon indicator which should have
lit whenever power was switched
through to heat the blanket. In
this case, the neon indicator did
not glow at first (sometimes) but
lit normally after a few minutes.
At first I suspected a loose connection, such as a dry-soldered
joint, but eventually came to the
conclusion that it was similar to
the problem with the fluorescent
light.
My younger son has been an
electronics engineer for quite a few
years and when I mentioned the
two examples above, he was able
to relate it to a machine he had to
fix. It used a neon lamp as part of
a timer circuit. After he had made
the necessary repairs, the control
was adjusted to the desired time
and everything worked OK until
the covers were replaced. This
caused the time-out to change.
After a few trials, he came to the
conclusion that light was affecting
the striking voltage of the neon gas
discharge device.
A. Brooks,
North Mackay, Qld.
Hot wire cutter
can be simplified
I just read the article on making
a hot wire cutter in the April 2000
issue and I thought I’d let you
know how I made mine; I think
it’s a fair bit simpler.
For the power supply I used a
dimmable 12V lamp transformer.
You can an usually buy a complete down-light kit for $20 at the
hardware stores and occasionally
a transformer on its own for $15.
For the temperature control I used
a standard lamp dimmer - I bought
a dimmer, switch and switch-plate
for $10 at K-Mart. For the cutter
wire I bought nichrome resistance
wire from Dick Smith Electronics.
David Truett,
via email.
Switching off
computers
I read your January 2000 editorial about “turning computers
off when not in use” and agreed
totally. I was therefore astounded
to read the letter of rebuttal in the
Mailbag pages of the March issue.
I completed an apprenticeship
as a “Radio & TV Mechanic” and
have spent the past 25 years repairing and designing new electronic
equipment from consumer gear
to industrial products and even
pinball machines.
I am flabbergasted that a person
from a TAFE college can assert
with total confidence that monitors will not catch fire. This is
head-in-the-sand stuff.
Actually my pet hate is cheap
equipment with shonky switchmode power supplies and dubious
mains wiring. This gear includes
TV sets, computer monitors and
VCRs. I have seen dozens of units
that have either caught fire or were
very close to doing so and this
troubles me.
When I build any piece of
mains-powered equipment my
first concern is that it is correctly
wired, earthed and fused, according to good 240VAC practice. This
seems to be little followed in some
very popular and well known
makes of consumer goods. I am
sure that some house fires could
be traced to dodgy TV sets running
in “standby” mode”.
To conclude, I agree 100% with
your comments – “if it’s not being
used, pull the plug”.
Mike Kalinowski,
via email.
May 2000 11
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
Building the Ul
Stereo Amplifi
In March 2000, we described the
circuit of the Ultra-LD 100W amplifier
module. In this article, we describe the
construction of a complete stereo
amplifier using two amplifier modules.
It has input facilities for three program
sources and a stereo volume control so
no preamplifier is required.
By LEO SIMPSON
A
S PRESENTED, this Ultra-LD
100W per channel stereo amplifier can be the basis of a very
fine “no-frills” stereo sound system.
You can plug in a CD player, tuner
or tape deck and the selected program
source is switched straight through to
the volume control and then to the
power amplifiers. This is equivalent to
the “CD-Direct” mode on some stereo
amplifiers.
The Ultra-LD stereo amplifier takes
the purist approach – no preamplifiers, no tone controls, no balance
control or anything else to affect the
signal quality before it goes to the
power amplifiers. The result is the
cleanest possible sound quality, rivalling that of the very best commercial
amplifiers, regardless of price.
In the “Publisher’s Letter” for the
March 2000 issue we indicated our
intention of building the new stereo
16 Silicon Chip
amplifier into a computer case. In
fact, we mentioned that we intended
using a “clam-shell” desk-top computer case.
Well, when we came to do the job
we decided that the selected case
looked a bit tatty and so we purchased
a brand new ATX tower case for the
princely sum of $66. This actually
came with a power supply which is
not needed for this project but which
will be pressed into service elsewhere.
Appearance aside, the clam-shell
desktop case would have been adequate for the job but the tower case has
substantially more room and has the
bonus of slide-on top and side panels
and effectively a sub-chassis inside
with channels at the top and sides.
These channels make it easier to
tuck the mains wiring neatly away
and the space between the sub-chassis
and one of the side panels means that
ltra-LD
Ultra-LD
fier
Part 2
May 2000 17
they will be completely enclosed in
the tower case and if you are playing
music such as pipe organ at high levels, the dissipation can run as much as
50 watts per channel or more and this
cannot be handled for more than a few
minutes without forced air cooling.
Very conveniently, just as we were
going to press with the March 2000
issue, a neat tunnel heatsink extrusion
to suit an 80mm fan became available
from Jaycar Electronics and we elected to incorporate this into the design,
as you can see.
With the fan running at a low
speed, the heatsink is very effective.
Interestingly, 80mm heatsink tunnels
now appear to be the standard cooling
approach in 100W+ 5-channel home
theatre receivers.
All of the foregoing explains the
assembly approach and also is the
reason for the delay in presentation
of this article which was originally
intended for last month’s issue.
Performance of stereo version
The finished amplifier in the ATX computer case. If you really want to dress it up
you could place a dress panel over the plastic in-fill panels and perhaps use much
more upmarket knobs. Maybe you could spray the case champagne gold or . . .
you can run wiring between them, for
better shielding and a neater layout.
Another bonus of buying a completely new case is that you get
matching in-fill panels for the disk
drive openings and this gives a
neater finished appearance. In fact,
we mounted the selector switch and
volume control on one of the in-fill
panels and the headphone socket on
another.
Using the tower case also gives
more options in the way the power
transformer is mounted although,
18 Silicon Chip
as it turned out, that did not present
a problem. As you can see from the
photos, most of the power supply
components are mounted on the base
of the case.
Fan cooling
As part of our approach in using
a computer case, it was always our
intention to use a small fan to cool
the heatsinks for the two amplifier
modules.
While normal running may not
produce a lot of heat in the modules,
We published a number of graphs
which showed the performance of
the prototype module in the March
2000 issue. However, for the stereo
version we built two completely new
modules and when they were finally
installed in the tower case we ran the
whole battery of tests again. It’s nice
to confirm the results but in some
instances the performance was even
better with the new modules.
Fig.1 shows the total harmonic
distortion (THD) versus power at
1kHz when both channels are driven
simultaneously into 8Ω loads. Power
tops out (the onset of clipping) at just
on 90W in both channels and you can
see that one channel (right) was slightly lower in distortion at the higher
powers. This measurement was taken
with a bandwidth of 10Hz to 22kHz.
Fig.2 shows the THD versus frequency for both channels driven into
8Ω loads at a power level of 90W. Here,
one channel is slightly better at the
midrange frequencies but it is higher
in distortion at 5kHz and above. This
is a result of the wiring layout. This
is always a very careful compromise
and here you will need to duplicate
the power supply wiring details that
we will discuss later in the article.
The measurements of Fig.2 were
taken with a bandwidth of 10Hz to
80kHz. Interestingly, Fig.2 stands
up very well by comparison to our
benchmark 15W Class-A amplifier
when driven at 15 watts (see Fig.3,
page 57, July 1998).
We’re not going to claim the Ultra-LD stereo amplifier is better than
the 15W Class-A design (that’s just
not possible) but it indicates that the
100W amplifier is pretty good in this
department. And of course, it has a
great deal more power.
Finally, Fig.3 shows the separation between channels across the
frequency range from 20Hz to 20kHz,
with both channels connected and
alternately driven from the Audio
Precision System One test set. This
gives a result of better than -60dB over
the whole audible spectrum for both
channels. While this is a fair way short
of the 90dB (typical) separation of a
CD player, it is a good “real world”
measurement, not the artificially
enhanced result produced by the
standard IHF-201 separation test.
All other performance parameters
of the Ultra-LD stereo amplifier are
the same as published in the March
2000 issue.
Now let us discuss the assembly of
the amplifier module and then we will
proceed to the power supply details
and the rest of the amplifier assembly.
Amplifier board assembly
The component overlay diagram of
the PC board is shown in Fig.4. Before
starting the board assembly, it is wise
to check the board carefully for open
or shorted tracks or undrilled lead
holes. Fix any defects before fitting
the components.
Start by inserting the PC pins and
the resistors. When installing the 3.3V
zener diode, make sure that it is
inserted with the correct
polarity.
Also take care
when installing
the electrolytic capacitors
to make sure
that they are
installed the
right way
around.
Note that
the 100pF compensation capacitor
from the collector of Q8 to the base
of Q7 should have a voltage rating of
at least 100V while the 0.15µF capacitor in the output filter should have a
rating of 400V.
Another point to be noted is that
if the amplifier is intended for continuous high power delivery at frequencies above 10kHz, then the 6.8Ω
resistor in the output filter should be
a wirewound type with a rating of at
least 5W, otherwise it may burn out.
Choke L1 is wound with 23.5 turns
With the fan mounted at one end, this is what the two modules look like before they are mounted in the case. The inset
shows how the two heatsink extrusions slide together to form a tunnel heatsink with the fins on the inside.
May 2000 19
AUDIO PRECISION SCTHD-W THD+N(%) vs measured LEVEL(W)
10
28 MAR 100 16:42:57
AUDIO PRECISION SCTHD-HZ THD+N(%) vs FREQ(Hz)
5
1
1
0.1
0.1
0.010
0.010
0.001
0.001
.0005
.0005
0.5
1
10
100
200
Fig.1: total harmonic distortion (THD) versus power at 1kHz when both channels
are driven simultaneously into 8Ω loads. The onset of clipping is just on 90W in
both channels. This measurement was taken with a bandwidth of 10Hz to 22kHz.
of 1mm enamelled copper wire on a
13mm plastic former. Alternatively,
some kitset suppliers will provide
this choke as a finished component.
When installing the fuse clips, note
that they each have little lugs on one
end which stop the fuse from moving.
If you install the clips the wrong way,
you will not be able to fit the fuses.
The 220Ω 5W wirewound resistors
20
100
Fig.2: THD versus frequency for both
channels driven into 8Ω loads at 90W.
can also be installed at this stage; they
are wired to PC stakes adjacent to each
fuseholder and are used during the
setting of quiescent current.
Next, mount the smaller transistors;
Fig.4: the component overlay for the PC board. Note that the resistor feeding ZD1 has been changed to 2.7kΩ 5W
wirewound.
20 Silicon Chip
)
28 MAR 100 20:19:46
AUDIO PRECISION SCCRSTK XTALK(dBr) & XTALK(dBr) vs FREQ(Hz)
0.0
28 MAR 100 20:45:48
-20.00
-40.00
-60.00
-80.00
-100.0
-120.0
1k
10k
20k
20
100
1k
10k
20k
Fig.3: separation between channels across the frequency
range from 20Hz to 20kHz.
When you’ve finished assembling the first PC board and mounted it to the heatsink (see overleaf), it should look exactly
like this! Now repeat the assembly procedure for the other channel . . .
May 2000 21
Fig.5: the drilling and tapping details for the tunnel heatsink extrusions (not to scale). All holes above left are tapped
for M3 screws while the base (above right) is tapped for M4 screws. Note these are not same size!
Fig.6: these diagrams show
how the transistors are
mounted to their respective
heatsinks.
22 Silicon Chip
Fig.7: this the
component
overlay for the
regulator PC
board. Make
sure you don’t
inadvertently
swap REG1
and REG2.
ie, BC546, BC556, BF469 and BF470.
The transistor pairs Q1 & Q2 and Q5
and Q6 are mounted so that their flat
faces actually touch each other. Since
we want each pair to thermally track
each other, put a dab of heatsink compound on the flat faces and squeeze
them together.
Both Q8 & Q9 need to be fitted
with U-shaped heatsinks, as shown
in Fig.4. The four output transistors,
the driver transistors (Q11 & Q12) and
the Vbe multiplier Q10 are mounted
vertically on one side of the board
and are secured to one section of
the tunnel heatsink with M3 and M4
machine screws.
The heatsink needs to be drilled
and tapped to take the screws. Fig.5
(not full-scale) shows
the drilling and tapping
details for mounting the
transistors to the heatsink and the heatsink to
the chassis.
Alternatively, if you
are building this amplifier from a kit,
the heatsink may already be drilled
and tapped.
At this stage, you can temporarily
attach the transistors to the heatsink
but don’t bother with heatsink compound or washers at this stage. This
done, poke all the transistor leads
through their corresponding holes in
the board and line up the board so
that its bottom edge is 15mm above
the bottom edge of the heatsink. This
ensures that the board will be horizontal when fitted with 15mm tapped
spacers at its front corners.
Note that you will have to bend out
all the transistor leads by about 20°,
to poke them through the PC board.
You can now solder all the transistor leads to the PC board. Having done
that, undo the screws attaching the
transistors to the heatsink and then
fit mica washers and apply heatsink
compound to the transistor mounting surfaces and the heatsink areas
covered by the mica washers. The
This view and the inset above shows how the two transformers were stacked and their primaries and secondaries terminated
to an insulated terminal block (as shown in Fig.8). After this photo was taken we rewired the speaker terminals with much
heavier figure-8 cables (2 x 79 strands 0.2mm). This made a significant difference to the power output and damping factor.
Note that all power and output wiring to the amplifier modules is tightly twisted to provide maximum AC field cancellation.
May 2000 23
PARTS LIST
Amplifier Case
1 ATX tower PC case (available
from CAM1 Computers; phone
02 9975 2919)
2 225mm tunnel heatsink extrusions (Jaycar Cat. HH-8530)
1 12V 80mm fan (see text)
1 toroidal power transformer,
300VA, 2 x 35V and 2 x 50V
secondaries
OR
1 300VA toroidal power transformer with 2 x 35V secondaries
(Altronics Cat. M-5535) and
1 20VA or 30VA toroidal power
transformer with 2 x 12V
secondaries (Altronics Cat
M-4912 or Jaycar Cat. MT-2112)
1 long bolt, nut, and washers to
suit transformers
1 pushbutton DPST 250VAC
switch to suit case (Jaycar Cat.
SP-0746)
4 insulated female spade connectors (to suit DPST switch)
1 3-pole, 4-position rotary switch
(adjust to 3 positions)
1 10kΩ dual-ganged log
potentiometer
2 knobs, to suit rotary switch and
potentiometer
1 IEC male power socket
1 IEC female power socket
2 insulating boots, to suit IEC
power sockets
1 panel-mount 3AG safety
fuse-holder (Jaycar Cat.
SZ-2025 or equiv.)
1 5A 3AG fuse
2 gold-plated binding post terminal
pairs (Jaycar Cat. PT-3008)
1 6-way RCA phono terminal panel
(Jaycar Cat. PS-0265)
1 stereo headphone socket
1 12-way insulated terminal block
16 adhesive cable twist-ties
2 solder lugs
1 400V 35A bridge rectifier (BR1)
1 1N4001 1A silicon diode (D1)
4 8000µF 63VW chassis-mount
electrolytic capacitors
1 470µF 25VW electrolytic
capacitor
2 8.2kΩ 1W resistors
1 1kΩ 0.25W resistor
2 330Ω 1W resistors (to connect
headphone socket)
24 Silicon Chip
1 120Ω 5W resistor (to suit fan;
see text)
Cable & Hardware
1m 250VAC 7.5A figure-8 flex
2m 2 x 79/0.2mm heavy-duty
figure-8 speaker cable
2m red 7.5A hook-up wire
2m white 7.5A hook-up wire
2m black 7.5A hook-up wire
1m green 7.5A hook-up wire
1m rainbow cable
1m figure-8 shielded cable
2m red light-duty hook-wire
2m black light-duty hook-up wire
8 15mm tapped spacers
16 M3 x 6mm screws
35 M3 x 10mm screws
2 M3 x 15mm screws
24 M3 nuts
45 M3 flat washers
8 M4 x 10mm screws
1 M4 x 15mm screw
1 M4 nut
9 M4 flat washers
4 No.6 x 15mm self-tappers
Amplifier Boards
2 PC boards, code 01103001,
105mm x 176mm
8 M205 PC mounting fuse clips
4 M205 5A fuses
2 coil formers, 24mm OD x
13.7mm ID x 12.8mm long,
Philips 4322 021 30362
2 200Ω multi-turn trimpot Bourns
3296W series (VR1)
3 metres 1mm diameter enamelled
copper wire
26 PC board pins
4 TO-126 heatsinks, Altronics Cat.
H-0504 or equivalent
8 TO-3P insulating washers (for
output transistors – see text)
6 TO-126 insulating washers
Miscellaneous
Heatshrink sleeving, heatsink
compound, tinned copper wire,
solder, insulation tape
Semiconductors
4 MJL1302A PNP power
transistors (Q13, Q14)
4 MJL3281A NPN power
transistors (Q15, Q16)
2 MJE15030 NPN transistors (Q11)
2 MJE15031 PNP transistors (Q12)
2 MJE340 NPN power transistors
(Q10)
2 BF469 NPN transistors (Q8)
2 BF470 PNP transistors (Q9)
6 BC546 NPN transistors (Q5-Q7)
8 BC556 PNP transistors (Q1-Q4)
2 3.3V 0.5W zener diodes (ZD1)
Capacitors
4 1000µF 63VW electrolytic
4 100µF 63VW electrolytic
2 100µF 16VW electrolytic
2 2.2µF 25VW electrolytic
2 0.15µF 400VW MKC, Philips
2222 344 51154 or Wima
MKC 4
10 0.1µF 63V MKT polyester
2 .0012µF 63V MKT polyester
2 100pF 100V ceramic
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
4 18kΩ
2 330Ω
2 12kΩ 1W
4 150Ω
2 3.3kΩ
6 120Ω
2 2.7kΩ 5W
8 100Ω
2 1.2kΩ
4 47Ω
2 1kΩ
2 6.8Ω 1W
2 390Ω
16 1.5Ω 1W
4 220Ω 5W (for current setting)
Regulator Board
1 PC board, code 01103002, 61 x
92mm
6 PC pins
2 2kΩ multi-turn trimpots Bourns
3296W series (VR2,VR3)
Semiconductors
2 TIP33B NPN power transistors
(Q17, Q18)
1 LM317 adjustable positive
3-terminal regulator (REG1)
1 LM337 adjustable negative
3-terminal regulator (REG2)
1 BR610 bridge rectifier (BR2)
2 1N4004 silicon diodes (D1,D2)
2 33V 5W zener diodes (ZD2, ZD3)
Capacitors
2 470µF 100VW electrolytics
1 220µF 63VW electrolytic
1 100µF 63VW electrolytic
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
2 6.8kΩ
2 47Ω
2 180Ω
6 15Ω 1W
Fig.8: this diagram shows the details of the mains wiring and all the transformer secondary
terminations at the insulated terminal block.
details for mounting these transistors
are shown in Fig.6.
Alternatively, you can dispense
with mica washers and heatsink compound and use silicone impregnated
thermal washers instead, as can be
seen in the photos. Whichever method you use, do not over-tighten the
mounting screws.
Now check with your multimeter,
switched to a high Ohms range, that
there are no shorts between the heatsink and any of the transistor collector
leads. If you do find a short, undo each
transistor mounting screw until the
short disappears. It is then a matter
of locating the cause of the short and
remounting the offending transistor.
Double-check all your soldering
and assembly work against the circuit published last month and the
component layout diagram of Fig.4.
Set trimpot VR1 fully anticlockwise
so that it is at minimum resistance.
Remove both fuses and ensure that
the 220Ω 5W resistors are wired across
both fuse-holders, as described above.
Power supply & case
Assuming that you have built two
amplifier modules you can now set
them aside and proceed to build
the regulated power supply board.
Its component overlay is shown in
While we elected to wire both IEC
sockets and switch the female socket,
most builders will probably take the
simpler approach and not wire the
female socket.
May 2000 25
options for wiring these and we will
come to those in a moment.
We also elected to use the front
panel power switch and if you are
using an older computer case you can
use the standard DPST (double-pole,
single-throw) switch. However, if you
are using a newer ATX case, its power
switch will be a momentary contact
type which is not suitable. If that is
the case, you will be need a push-on
push-off DPST switch to mate with
the pushbutton on the front panel
of the case. Again, you may able to
obtain that from an older PC or you
can purchase a suitable replacement
from Jaycar (Cat. SP-0746).
Now to the 240VAC mains wiring
options. As far as the female IEC power (output) socket is concerned, you
can either leave it unwired (and just
use it to blank off the hole) or wire it
in parallel with the male IEC power
(input) socket. Alternatively, if you
decide to switch the IEC female socket, you will need to run two lengths of
figure-8 250VAC cable (to run from the
IEC sockets to the switch and back).
We took this approach but the wiring diagram of Fig.8 shows the simpler
approach with the IEC female socket
unswitched and just one length of figure-8 250VAC cable running from the
IEC male socket to the DPST switch
and then to the multi-way insulated
terminal block.
Note also that a panel-mount
safety fuseholder is required and its
contacts should be sleeved with heat
shrink tubing. Similarly, the two IEC
sockets should have insulating boots
fitted over them to prevent accidental
contact with the wiring terminals.
Another point to note is that the IEC
female socket is larger than its male
counterpart and therefore requires a
larger boot.
Drilling the case
Before you can start doing any
wiring on the case, all the holes must
be drilled for the hardware and any
cutouts made. For simplicity, we
won’t mention all the holes that are
required and we’ll only talk about
specific hardware as we discuss the
wiring but you have to do all drilling
and metal-bashing first.
For example, you have to drill
all the holes to mount the tunnel
The rear panel has an extra cutout
for the tunnel fan and has gold plated
speaker terminals as well as a 6-way
RCA input socket panel.
Fig.7. This is quite straightforward to
assemble but don’t make the mistake
of inadvertently swapping REG1 &
REG2, the positive and negative regulators. And make sure that the zener
diodes and electrolytic capacitors are
inserted the right way around.
The next step is to work on the
tower case for the amplifier. As stated previously, we purchased a new
ATX tower computer case for $66
(from CAM1 Computer Wholesale
Pty Ltd; phone (02) 9975 2919. This
came with a power supply which we
removed and that leaves quite a few
metal working details to be sorted out.
First, the opening where the power
supply was needs to be filled in and
to do that we cut off the rear panel of
a non-working PC power supply. That
gave us a panel with a fan cut-out (for
ventilation) and two IEC power sockets – male and female. There are two
26 Silicon Chip
An advantage of this case is that you can run some of the wiring between the
chassis and one of the side panels. This improves shielding as well as giving a
neater result. Note the ribbon cable for the input signal wiring – this is much
easier to run than shielded cable.
Fig.9: this is the alternative power supply arrangement using
two power transformers with their secondaries added together.
heatsink and the amplifier modules,
regulated power supply board, the
power transformers, the multi-way
insulated terminal block, bridge
rectifier, chassis-mount electrolytic
capacitors and the chassis-mount
fuseholder. You also have to make the
cutouts in the rear panel for the 12V
fan, loudspeaker terminals and RCA
phono terminal panel.
Make sure that all holes and cutouts
are de-burred and that the chassis is
completely clean of all metal swarf. It
is also a good idea to wipe the entire
chassis clean with a cloth moistened
with methylated spirits or kerosene.
This will remove grease and finger-pints which eventually become
a site for surface corrosion in these
(normally) bright zinc-plated chassis.
We also had to remove the 3.5-inch
disk drive cage but elected to leave the
5.25-inch drive cage where it was as
it was spot-welded in place.
Power transformer wiring
There are two options for the power
transformer. The power supply circuit
on page 22 of the March 2000 issue
shows a single transformer with two
35V windings and two 50V windings.
The prototype 225VA transformer was
made by Harbuch Transformers Pty
Ltd (phone 02 9476 5854) and they
will no doubt be able to supply a
300VA version for this stereo amplifier. As an alternative, we decided to
power our prototype with two off-theshelf toroidal transformers: a 300VA
unit with two 35V windings and a
30VA unit with two 12V windings.
These are wired so that they effec-
tively provide two 35V AC windings
(from the 300VA unit) and two 47V
windings, with the 35V and 12V
windings added together, as shown
in the circuit of Fig.9.
One of the 12V windings is also
used to power the front panel LED
and the 12V DC fan; more on that in
a moment.
The two transformers were stacked,
with a neoprene washer under the
300VA transformer, a washer between
the two transformers and another neoprene washer underneath the steel
cup washer for the 30VA transformer.
One bolt passes through both transformers and secures them to the case,
as can be seen in the photos.
So the first steps in wiring the power supply are to stack the transformers
together and terminate their primary
May 2000 27
This underside view of the finished modules mounted on the heatsink shows
how the extrusions have been drilled for M4 screws to secure it in the case.
and secondary windings to the multi-way insulated terminal block, as
shown in the diagram of Fig.8. Run
the 240VAC mains wiring around the
top and sides of the case, as shown.
Do not connect any of the other
power supply components yet until
the phasing of the two transformers
is confirmed as correct. To do this
you connect the unit to the 240VAC
mains, switch on and use your multimeter (switched to a 100VAC range
or higher) and check that you have the
two 35V windings delivering around
37VAC (unloaded) and the summed
windings delivering around 50VAC
unloaded. If the phasing is incorrect,
you may find that the summed wind-
Resistor Colour Codes
No.
4
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
4
6
8
6
6
2
16
Value
18kΩ
12kΩ
8.2kΩ
6.8kΩ
3.3kΩ
2.7kΩ
1.2kΩ
1kΩ
390Ω
330Ω
180Ω
150Ω
120Ω
100Ω
47Ω
15Ω
6.8Ω
1.5Ω
28 Silicon Chip
4-Band Code (1%)
brown grey orange brown
brown red orange brown
grey red red brown
blue grey red brown
orange orange red brown
red purple red brown
brown red red brown
brown black red brown
orange white brown brown
orange orange brown brown
brown grey brown brown
brown green brown brown
brown red brown brown
brown black brown brown
yellow purple black brown
brown green black brown
blue grey gold brown
brown green gold brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown grey black red brown
brown red black red brown
grey red black brown brown
blue grey black brown brown
orange orange black brown brown
red purple black brown brown
brown red black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
orange white black black brown
orange orange black black brown
brown grey black black brown
brown green black black brown
brown red black black brown
brown black black black brown
yellow purple black goldbrown
brown green black gold brown
blue grey black silver brown
brown green black silver brown
ings actually deliver around 24VAC. If
this happens, you will need to swap
the connections from the two 12V
windings.
Note that while the wiring diagram
of Fig.8 shows the colour-coding of
the transformer wires to acheive the
circuit shown in Fig.9, you will still
have to check the output voltages,
as noted above. In fact, while our
prototype was wired as shown in
Fig.8, we still had to swap one of the
transformers secondaries to achieve
the correct result; so don’t take it for
granted.
Next, install the four chassis-mount
8000µF filter capacitors and the bridge
rectifier and the regulated power supply board and complete the wiring,
as shown in Fig.8. Then apply power
again and check the resulting ±55V
regulated rails and the unregulated
±52.5V rails.
For the regulated supply rails you
will need to adjust trimpots VR2 &
VR3 to obtain exactly ±55V DC. As
far as the main unregulated supply
rails are concerned, they will probably deliver around ±53V as they are
completely unloaded.
These measurements were made
with an AC supply voltage of 240VAC.
If your mains voltage is higher, and
this will normally be the case, then
the amplifier supply rails will be
increased accordingly.
Note that when you switch the
unit off, the 8000µF capacitors will
take a very long time to discharge.
Hence, you should use a resistor of,
say, 470Ω 5W to safely discharge each
supply rail after your initial tests have
been done.
Testing the amplifier modules
Before the amplifier modules are
installed in the case, they must be
tested.
To do this, you need a steel or
aluminium baseplate which can be
earthed back to the tower case. This
becomes a temporary chassis for the
amplifiers. Place a piece of cardboard
over the base-plate to reduce the
Capacitor Codes
Value
IEC Code EIA Code
0.15µF 150n 154
0.1µF 100n 104
.0012µF 12n 121
100pF
100pF 100
Fig.10: use this diagram when
running all the signal wiring and
power wiring to the amplifier
modules. Note that the routing
of the ±52.5V wiring is critical if
you want to obtain the very best
harmonic distortion performance.
May 2000 29
Fig.11: the full-size PC board pattern
for the amplifier power supply. Only
one of these boards is required.
chance of any shorts from the modules. Test one module at a time.
You need to run the five power
supply leads from the tower case to
the amplifier module: ±52.5V (unregulated), ±55V (regulated) and 0V.
Now apply power. No loudspeaker or
resistive load should be connected at
this stage.
Now measure the voltage at the
output of the amplifier module. It
should be less than ±30mV of 0V. If
it is not close to zero, switch off the
power as you have a fault. Check over
your work very carefully. Check the
base-emitter voltages of each transistor; they should all be in the range of
0.6V to 0.7V.
Also check for missed solder connections, solder splashes between
tracks, incorrectly connected transistors, incorrect transistor types, parts
in the wrong way around, etc.
Check the voltage across the 3.3V
zener diode. Our examples proved
to be low as they were 1W types and
they needed more current through
them. Accordingly we changed the
8.2kΩ 1W bias resistor to 2.7kΩ 5W to
increase the zener current to around
20mA. We recommend this change.
Now monitor the voltage across
one of the 220Ω 5W resistors. With
VR1 fully anticlockwise, the voltage
should be close to zero since there is
no quiescent current in the output
stage.
Now slowly wind VR1 clockwise
until the voltage starts to rise. Set
VR1 for a voltage of 4.4V across the
220Ω resistor. This is equivalent to a
quiescent current of 20mA or 10mA
through each output transistor.
You can check this by measuring
the voltage drop across any of the eight
1.5Ω 1W emitter resistors. The average
value across the resistors should be
7.5mV. Leave the amplifier to run for
10 minutes or so and then retouch the
setting of VR1 if necessary.
Finally, fit the 5A fuses and the
module is finished. Repeat the
procedure for the second amplifier
module.
Wiring up
There remains quite a bit of wiring
to be done. First, you need to run the
rainbow cabling between the RCA
phono sockets and the selector switch
on the front panel. Note that the white
phono sockets are for the left channel;
red for the right channel. The wiring
from the selector switch to the volume
control and then to amplifier inputs
is run in figure-8 shielded cable. The
details are shown in the wiring diagram of Fig.10.
Using ribbon cable for the signal
wiring is much easier than running
Fig.12: the full-size etching pattern for the amplifier PC board. Two boards are required for the stereo amplifier.
30 Silicon Chip
shielded cable. It must be laid flat on
the chassis and kept away, as much as
possible, from power wiring.
Using our tower case, we were able
to run the ribbon cable between the
chassis and one of the side covers to
improve the shielding.
The cables for the power supplies
must be run exactly as shown in the
diagram of Fig.10. First, run three
leads, using 7.5A-rated hookup wire,
from the regulator board to both
modules. These leads must be tightly
twisted as shown.
Second, run three leads, again using
7.5A hookup wire, from the unregulated ±52.5V rails to both modules and
again, tightly twisted.
Particularly critical is the way in
which these three leads are routed
underneath the centre of both amplifier boards and then having the
positive and negative leads radiating
out to the respective PC stakes on the
boards. The routing shown is critical
because the heavy class-B currents
produce a magnetic field which partially cancels the fields produced by
the same class-B currents in the PC
board tracks.
Note the positioning of these wires
carefully; see how they align with the
tracks carrying the class-B currents
from the paralleled 1.5Ω resistors on
each side of the board. A change in
position by as little as 5mm can make
quite a significant difference to the
resulting high frequency distortion
performance of the amplifier.
This photo shows the detail of wiring to the headphone socket (top left) and
power switch. Note the insulating sleeves on the power switch: they’re essential!
Output connections
Again, this is a critical aspect. For
the output leads from the amplifier
modules to the output terminals we
used a heavy-duty figure-8 speaker
cable (Jaycar Cat. WB-1712 or WB1713; 2 x 79/0.2mm). Do not use
lighter gauge cables as they do have
a significant effect on the ultimate
performance.
These cables must be tightly twisted
for effective field cancellation.
The speaker terminals themselves
should be heavy-duty solid metal
units such as the gold-plated types
from Jaycar (Cat. PT-3008). These
are another essential item – do not
use cheaper plastic or spring-loaded
speaker terminals; they do not make
reliable low resistance connections
and they can make a large difference
(like 10 times worse) to the distortion.
The recommended terminals will
The selector switch and the 10kΩ dual ganged log volume control are mounted
on one of the plastic in-fill panels.
also take the largest of jumbo speaker
cables.
You also need to run light duty
hookup wire for the wiring to the
headphone socket although you may
decide to dispense with the head
phone facility altogether. Assuming
that you do wire the headphone socket, you need to run the twisted-wire
pair from both channel outputs to
the socket but only one earth return
is connected while the other remains
unconnected, as shown on Fig.8.
Two more points about the head
phone socket: first, do not earth the
headphone socket, otherwise you
will end up with an earth loop (they
cause hum and distortion). Hence, the
headphone socket is mounted on one
of the plastic infill panels, as shown.
Second, do not use the headphone
socket to switch the loudspeakers
on and off. While we did this in the
above-mentioned Class-A amplifier,
the much higher speaker currents
involved in this 100W amplifier are
too much for the headphone switch
contacts to handle and give a low
distortion result.
In a future issue, we will address the
May 2000 31
Fig.13: the
existing badge
can be removed
from the front
panel of the case
and this one used
instead.
Finally, here is the whole rear panel of the assembled amplifier. As previously
noted, we replaced the cabling to the speaker terminals with much heavier wire
– with very worthwhile results.
problem of speaker protection, muting
and headphone switching.
Fan control
As mentioned above, the fan is run
at low speed and it runs continuously. We were able to salvage an 80mm
32 Silicon Chip
fan from a defunct computer supply
although they are readily available
from electronic parts retailers. If you
are buying a fan, purchase the one
with the lowest noise rating.
These days such 12V fans are brushless (ie, electronically commutated)
which means that they are polarised;
if you connect them the wrong way
around they won’t run.
The fan we used is rated at 12V <at>
200mA but we throttled it right back
to around 5.8V by using a 120Ω 5W
resistor in series with the half-wave
rectified DC supply (see Fig.9).
While you may be able to run your
fan at lower than 5.8V and thereby
make it even quieter, you will need
to check that it runs properly; if the
voltage to the fan is too low, it may
not start reliably.
Note that while the fan will run
much quieter than if it was being
powered by the full 12V, it will still
make a low level hum which may
still be a problem, depending on your
listening room and how close you are
to the amplifier.
In our situation, we found that while
ever music was playing, even at very
low levels, the fan was not audible but
when the program stopped, the fan
could be heard as a very muted hum.
We’ve taken this approach for
simplicity. If fan noise is a problem
in your situation, you may need to
position the amplifier well away from
your listening position or even put it
in a cupboard.
The DC supply for the fan also
runs the front panel LED. Wiring for
this LED will already be present in
the computer case and it is simply a
matter of connecting the wires to the
DC supply at the multi-way insulated
terminal block.
When all your wiring is complete,
you need to check all your work very
carefully. Then apply power and recheck the voltages on the amplifier.
Readjust trimpot VR1 on the amplifier
modules if necessary.
Finally, place the covers on the
case, connect your CD player and
loudspeakers. Have a listen close to
the loudspeakers without any music playing. There should be only a
very low level hiss coming from the
speakers.
Now place your favourite CD in
the machine and sit back to enjoy the
SC
sound.
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May 2000 33
5 channels of
home theatre
sound in
headphones
Is it nonsense
or does it
really
work?
TM
Just recently there have been stories in the daily press
about Dolby Headphone, a new system for reproducing
home theatre sound in headphones.
Is such a system possible or is it another
marketing gimmick?
By LEO SIMPSON
I
recently had the chance to talk to
the developers of the Dolby
Headphone system and experience
a demonstration.
To be honest, I did not know what
to expect. On the one hand, how can
it be possible to provide or simulate
five separate channels of audio in
stereo-phonic headphones?
On the other hand, it is called “Dolby Headphone” and with a brand like
34 Silicon Chip
that, it must be a genuine innovation.
So I went along with an open mind
(sort of). The demonstration was in
a typical home theatre set-up: large
screen for the video side of things
and five speakers for the surround
sound: left and right front, centre front
and two rear speakers. There was no
sub-woofer though, as far as I was
aware, although that would normally
be tucked away out of sight.
I sat on the lounge in front of the
video monitor and was handed a pair
of normal stereo headphones to put on
but I was told that the sound would
come from the five speakers.
The demo consisted of a spoken
commentary, along the lines of “this
is my voice coming from the left front
speaker... This is my voice coming
from the right front speaker... This is
my voice coming from the left rear
Dolby Digital speaker layout for cinema surround sound systems (above) and
for the home theatre 5.1 system (below).
speaker... and so on”.
The demo starts with the sound
clearly coming from the speakers arrayed around the room but part-way
during the narrative I was told that I
could now take the headphones off.
As I did I realised that at some
point in the narrative, the sound had
stopped coming from the speakers
and was now coming solely from
the headphones. And yes, there was
no doubt about it; there really were
five discrete channels of audio, each
strongly located where they were
supposed to be.
After the short demo and listening
to some specially recorded material,
I was convinced.
It was no longer a question of whether Dolby Headphone works but “How
is it done?”
In effect, the Dolby Headphone
system creates up to five virtual loudspeakers in a virtual room. Not only
that, but the system can model the
sound of surround sound playback in
up to three different listening “rooms”:
• DH1 is a small, well-damped
room, ie, with carpet, curtains and soft
furnishings, suitable for both movies
and music-only recordings. It is the socalled Dolby Headphone “Reference
Room” and is provided on all Dolby
Headphone equipped products.
• DH2 is a more acoustically live
room particularly suited to music
listening.
• DH3 is a larger room, more like a
concert hall or movie theatre.
DH2 and DH3 are optional and may
not be offered on some Dolby Headphone products.
How it was done
Normally, when you listen to a
stereo program via headphones, the localisation of sound is quite unrealistic.
Left channel sounds appear intimately in your left ear, right channels
sounds in your right ear and sounds
diffused over the stereo stage appear
to come from right inside your head
or for many listeners, over the top of
May 2000 35
must be performed for all five channels
simultaneously; with all the necessary
acoustic delays for the direct sounds
and the multiple reflections.
While a number of companies have
attempted to simulate surround sound
via headphones, none have really
caught on in the marketplace.
Part of the problem has been that
the simulations have not be able to
cope with the huge number of signal
For each speaker placed in a room
a unique combination of direct and
reflected sounds reaches the
listener. Dolby Headphone simulates
the acoustic effects for a complete
surround experience over stereo
headphones.
your head.
There is no “front” or “rear” localisation and if you have listened to
stereo headphones over the years and
understand the normal processes of
audio recording, it is difficult to imagine how front and rear localisation
could be provided, let alone left front,
right front, centre front and so on.
Think about how our ears and brain
let us strongly localise sound. The
process of localisation depends on
the brain perceiving the difference in
time of a arrival for a sound to reach
our ears.
But not only do we hear and perceive the sounds arriving via the shortest path to our ears, we also perceive
all the reflections off walls and other
objects to gain a sense of space, height
and so on.
Furthermore, our ears also provide
a different frequency response to
sounds coming from the front than
they do from the rear. So much so, that
even if we are blindfolded, we usually
have no trouble knowing from where
a sound originates.
For example, if you were blind-folded or in a completely dark room, you
would instantly be able to locate the
source of most sounds, such an object
falling to the floor, knocking on the
wall and so on, even if the room was
quite unfamiliar.
This wonderful system of sound
localisation, whereby our brain and
ears work together, has been evolved
over millions of years. It has enabled
us to escape being eaten by predators
because we could tell which direction
they were coming from – and incidentally, allowed us to successfully hunt
36 Silicon Chip
and survive. But the whole process of
sound localisation by our ears had to
be thoroughly understood before five
channels of audio could be simulated
electronically.
Acoustic delays
If you are going to simulate a sound
arriving from the left front speaker at
the left and right ears on a person’s
head, you must provide acoustic
delays which not only produce the
direct path difference but also the
delays for multiple reflections for any
sound from the left front speaker off
the walls, ceiling and floor.
If you think in terms of computing
power, the encoding and recording
system becomes exceedingly complex,
just to precisely locate the left front
speaker via a set of headphones.
But consider that the same process
reflections involved for a period of
perhaps half a second – the sort of
reverberation time that can be experienced in a large listening room.
Naturally, all of the simulation and
filtering processes referred to above
are done using DSP (digital signal
processing).
And that is where the Australian
company Lake Technology Ltd, the
developer of the Dolby Headphone
system, comes into the picture. Lake
Technology are experts in “convolution”, a mathematical operation
used in the mixing of signals with
applications in the processing of audio
signals, radar signals and even in radio
astronomy.
Using their experience in convolution and DSP, Lake Technology
developed algorithms to simulate the
surround sound experience in head-
phones using an FIR (finite impulse
response) filter with low latency
(meaning it’s very fast) and with
278,244 taps of convolution (meaning
it can simulate vast numbers of room
reflections).
As part of their research, they went
to the trouble of setting up a typical
listening room with a home theatre
setup of five loudspeakers and then
recorded all sorts of signals as heard
by a typical listener when seated in
the “sweet-spot”.
Real, live dummies!
But they did not use a dummy head
for the recordings; they used a real
person and they fitted microphones
in the ear canals of that person (must
have been uncomfortable).
Using their Huron acoustic virtual
reality simulation platform, they then
went on to produce a simulation of
the recordings and subsequently, the
algorithms.
Such was the success of Lake
Technology that the system is now
licensed to Dolby Laboratories for full
commercialisation.
Already a number of semiconductor manufacturers, such as Motorola,
Analog Devices and Sanyo, have produced chipsets for Dolby Headphone
and the first commercial product, the
Hitachi Prius computer, incorporating
a DVD player and Dolby Headphone,
has been released in Japan.
Not only is it envisaged that Dolby
Headphone will be incorporated into
products such as DVD players and
surround sound amplifiers but also
into portable CD and MP3 players.
As the release of the Hitachi Prius
system proves, possibly the biggest
market will be in computers and computer games, allowing users to enjoy
full surround sound without the need
for an array of tiny speakers.
Standard headphones
One of the beauties of the Dolby
Headphone system is that any pair
of stereo headphones can be used
although naturally, the better the
quality of the headphones, the better
will be results.
So while it can produce very good
results for movie sound tracks with
just average headphones, it will be
even better with good quality phones
and should be tops for music discs
recorded with surround sound en-
coding.
Lake Inflight Theatre
Nor are the benefits of surround
sound confined to home users; there
is a very big potential market in the
airlines.
Recognising this, Lake Technology
and Dolby Laboratories Inc have acted to provide the system for in-flight
movies. In this system, the sound
portion of the program is not encoded
as Dolby Digital with six channels but
as two channels with the full surround
sound simulation.
This means that no decoders are
required on the plane and all existing
equipment can be used whether it is
based on VCRs or DVD players.
This system is already available on
Qantas and Singapore Airlines and
is available to all airlines. In fact, the
LIFT program provides testing and
accreditation for the entire inflight
entertainment installation, including
all the headsets.
Further information on Dolby
Headphone and related products is
available from the following websites:
www.dolby.com/headphone/
www.lake.com.au
SC
May 2000 37
Silicon Chip
Back Issues
September 1988: Hands-Free Speakerphone; Electronic Fish Bite
Detector; High-Performance AC Millivoltmeter, Pt.2; Build The
Vader Voice.
April 1989: Auxiliary Brake Light Flasher; What You Need to Know
About Capacitors; 32-Band Graphic Equaliser, Pt.2; The Story Of
Amtrak Passenger Services.
May 1989: Build A Synthesised Tom-Tom; Biofeedback Monitor For
Your PC; Simple Stub Filter For Suppressing TV Interference; The
Burlington Northern Railroad.
July 1989: Exhaust Gas Monitor; Experimental Mains Hum Sniffers;
Compact Ultrasonic Car Alarm; The NSW 86 Class Electrics.
September 1989: 2-Chip Portable AM Stereo Radio (Uses MC13024
and TX7376P) Pt.1; High Or Low Fluid Level Detector; Studio Series
20-Band Stereo Equaliser, Pt.2.
October 1989: FM Radio Intercom For Motorbikes Pt.1; GaAsFet
Preamplifier For Amateur TV; 2-Chip Portable AM Stereo Radio, Pt.2;
A Look At Australian Monorails.
November 1989: Radfax Decoder For Your PC (Displays Fax, RTTY
& Morse); FM Radio Intercom For Motorbikes, Pt.2; 2-Chip Portable
AM Stereo Radio, Pt.3; Floppy Disc Drive Formats & Options; The
Pilbara Iron Ore Railways.
January 1990: High Quality Sine/Square Oscillator; Service Tips For
Your VCR; Phone Patch For Radio Amateurs; Active Antenna Kit;
Designing UHF Transmitter Stages.
February 1990: A 16-Channel Mixing Desk; Build A High Quality
Audio Oscillator, Pt.2; The Incredible Hot Canaries; Random Wire
Antenna Tuner For 6 Metres; Phone Patch For Radio Amateurs, Pt.2.
March 1990: Delay Unit For Automatic Antennas; Workout Timer For
Aerobics Classes; 16-Channel Mixing Desk, Pt.2; Using The UC3906
SLA Battery Charger IC; The Australian VFT Project.
April 1990: Dual Tracking ±50V Power Supply; Voice-Operated Switch
(VOX) With Delayed Audio; 16-Channel Mixing Desk, Pt.3; Active CW
Filter; Servicing Your Microwave Oven.
August 1992: Automatic SLA Battery Charger; Miniature 1.5V To 9V
DC Converter; 1kW Dummy Load Box For Audio Amplifiers; Troubleshooting Vintage Radio Receivers; The MIDI Interface Explained.
October 1992: 2kW 24VDC - 240VAC Sinewave Inverter; Multi-Sector
Home Burglar Alarm, Pt.2; Mini Amplifier For Personal Stereos; A
Regulated Lead-Acid Battery Charger.
January 1993: Flea-Power AM Radio Transmitter; High Intensity LED
Flasher For Bicycles; 2kW 24VDC To 240VAC Sinewave Inverter, Pt.4;
Speed Controller For Electric Models, Pt.3.
Amplifier For The 6-Metre Amateur Transmitter; Index To Volume 3.
January 1991: Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries, Pt.1; Have Fun
With The Fruit Machine; Two-Tone Alarm Module; LCD Readout For
The Capacitance Meter; How Quartz Crystals Work; The Dangers of
Servicing Microwave Ovens.
February 1991: Synthesised Stereo AM Tuner, Pt.1; Three Low-Cost
Inverters For Fluorescent Lights; Low-Cost Sinewave Oscillator;
Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries, Pt.2; How To Design Amplifier
Output Stages.
March 1991: Remote Controller For Garage Doors, Pt.1; Transistor
Beta Tester Mk.2; A Synthesised AM Stereo Tuner, Pt.2; Multi-Purpose
I/O Board For PC-Compatibles; Universal Wideband RF Preamplifier
For Amateur Radio & TV.
April 1991: Steam Sound Simulator For Model Railroads; Remote
Controller For Garage Doors, Pt.2; Simple 12/24V Light Chaser;
Synthesised AM Stereo Tuner, Pt.3; A Practical Approach To Amplifier
Design, Pt.2.
May 1991: 13.5V 25A Power Supply For Transceivers; Stereo Audio
Expander; Fluorescent Light Simulator For Model Railways; How To
Install Multiple TV Outlets, Pt.1.
June 1991: A Corner Reflector Antenna For UHF TV; Build A 4-Channel Lighting Desk, Pt.1; 13.5V 25A Power Supply For Transceivers,
Pt.2; Active Filter For CW Reception; Tuning In To Satellite TV, Pt.1.
July 1991: Loudspeaker Protector For Stereo Amplifiers; 4-Channel
Lighting Desk, Pt.2; How To Install Multiple TV Outlets, Pt.2; Tuning
In To Satellite TV, Pt.2.
September 1991: Digital Altimeter For Gliders & Ultralights; Ultrasonic
Switch For Mains Appliances; The Basics Of A/D & D/A Conversion;
Plotting The Course Of Thunderstorms.
October 1991: Build A Talking Voltmeter For Your PC, Pt.1; SteamSound Simulator For Model Railways Mk.II; Magnetic Field Strength
Meter; Digital Altimeter For Gliders, Pt.2; Military Applications Of
R/C Aircraft.
February 1993: Three Projects For Model Railroads; Low Fuel Indicator For Cars; Audio Level/VU Meter (LED Readout); An Electronic
Cockroach; 2kW 24VDC To 240VAC Sinewave Inverter, Pt.5.
March 1993: Solar Charger For 12V Batteries; Alarm-Triggered
Security Camera; Reaction Trainer; Audio Mixer for Camcorders; A
24-Hour Sidereal Clock For Astronomers.
April 1993: Solar-Powered Electric Fence; Audio Power Meter;
Three-Function Home Weather Station; 12VDC To 70VDC Converter;
Digital Clock With Battery Back-Up.
May 1993: Nicad Cell Discharger; Build The Woofer Stopper;
Alphanumeric LCD Demonstration Board; The Story of Aluminium.
June 1993: AM Radio Trainer, Pt.1; Remote Control For The Woofer
Stopper; Digital Voltmeter For Cars; Build A Windows-Based Logic
Analyser.
July 1993: Single Chip Message Recorder; Light Beam Relay
Extender; AM Radio Trainer, Pt.2; Quiz Game Adjudicator; Windows-Based Logic Analyser, Pt.2; Antenna Tuners – Why They
Are Useful.
August 1993: Low-Cost Colour Video Fader; 60-LED Brake Light Array;
Microprocessor-Based Sidereal Clock; Southern Cross Z80-Based
Computer; A Look At Satellites & Their Orbits.
September 1993: Automatic Nicad Battery Charger/Discharger; Stereo
Preamplifier With IR Remote Control, Pt.1; In-Circuit Transistor Tester;
+5V to ±15V DC Converter; Remote-Controlled Cockroach.
October 1993: Courtesy Light Switch-Off Timer For Cars; Wireless
Microphone For Musicians; Stereo Preamplifier With IR Remote
Control, Pt.2; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.1.
November 1993: High Efficiency Inverter For Fluorescent Tubes; Stereo
Preamplifier With IR Remote Control, Pt.3; Siren Sound Generator;
Engine Management, Pt.2; Experiments For Games Cards.
December 1993: Remote Controller For Garage Doors; Build A LED
Stroboscope; Build A 25W Audio Amplifier Module; A 1-Chip Melody
Generator; Engine Management, Pt.3; Index To Volume 6.
June 1990: Multi-Sector Home Burglar Alarm; Build A Low-Noise
Universal Stereo Preamplifier; Load Protector For Power Supplies;
Speed Alarm For Your Car.
November 1991: Build A Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.1; A Junkbox
2-Valve Receiver; Flashing Alarm Light For Cars; Digital Altimeter For
Gliders, Pt.3; Build A Talking Voltmeter For Your PC, Pt.2; Build a
Turnstile Antenna For Weather Satellite Reception.
January 1994: 3A 40V Adjustable Power Supply; Switching Regulator For Solar Panels; Printer Status Indicator; Mini Drill Speed
Controller; Stepper Motor Controller; Active Filter Design; Engine
Management, Pt.4.
July 1990: Digital Sine/Square Generator, Pt.1 (covers 0-500kHz); Burglar Alarm Keypad & Combination Lock; Build A Simple Electronic Die;
A Low-Cost Dual Power Supply; Inside A Coal Burning Power Station.
December 1991: TV Transmitter For VCRs With UHF Modulators;
Infrared Light Beam Relay; Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.2; Index
To Volume 4.
February 1994: Build A 90-Second Message Recorder; 12-240VAC
200W Inverter; 0.5W Audio Amplifier; 3A 40V Adjustable Power
Supply; Engine Management, Pt.5; Airbags In Cars – How They Work.
August 1990: High Stability UHF Remote Transmitter; Universal Safety
Timer For Mains Appliances (9 Minutes); Horace The Electronic Cricket;
Digital Sine/Square Generator, Pt.2.
January 1992: 4-Channel Guitar Mixer; Adjustable 0-45V 8A Power
Supply, Pt.1; Baby Room Monitor/FM Transmitter; Experiments For
Your Games Card.
March 1994: Intelligent IR Remote Controller; 50W (LM3876) Audio
Amplifier Module; Level Crossing Detector For Model Railways; Voice
Activated Switch For FM Microphones; Engine Management, Pt.6.
September 1990: A Low-Cost 3-Digit Counter Module; Build A Simple
Shortwave Converter For The 2-Metre Band; The Bose Lifestyle Music
System (Review); The Care & Feeding Of Nicad Battery Packs (Getting
The Most From Nicad Batteries).
March 1992: TV Transmitter For VHF VCRs; Thermostatic Switch
For Car Radiator Fans; Coping With Damaged Computer Directories;
Guide Valve Substitution In Vintage Radios.
April 1994: Sound & Lights For Model Railway Level Crossings;
Discrete Dual Supply Voltage Regulator; Universal Stereo Preamplifier;
Digital Water Tank Gauge; Engine Management, Pt.7.
April 1992: IR Remote Control For Model Railroads; Differential Input
Buffer For CROs; Understanding Computer Memory; Aligning Vintage
Radio Receivers, Pt.1.
May 1994: Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries; Induction Balance Metal
Locator; Multi-Channel Infrared Remote Control; Dual Electronic Dice;
Simple Servo Driver Circuits; Engine Management, Pt.8.
May 1992: Build A Telephone Intercom; Electronic Doorbell; Battery
Eliminator For Personal Players; Infrared Remote Control For Model
Railroads, Pt.2; Aligning Vintage Radio Receivers, Pt.2.
June 1994: 200W/350W Mosfet Amplifier Module; A Coolant Level
Alarm For Your Car; 80-Metre AM/CW Transmitter For Amateurs;
Converting Phono Inputs To Line Inputs; PC-Based Nicad Battery
Monitor; Engine Management, Pt.9.
October 1990: The Dangers of PCBs; Low-Cost Siren For Burglar
Alarms; Dimming Controls For The Discolight; Surfsound Simulator;
DC Offset For DMMs; NE602 Converter Circuits.
November 1990: Connecting Two TV Sets To One VCR; Build An Egg
Timer; Low-Cost Model Train Controller; 1.5V To 9V DC Converter;
Introduction To Digital Electronics; 6-Metre Amateur Transmitter.
December 1990: 100W DC-DC Converter For Car Amplifiers; Wiper
Pulser For Rear Windows; 4-Digit Combination Lock; 5W Power
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June 1992: Multi-Station Headset Intercom, Pt.1; Video Switcher For
Camcorders & VCRs; IR Remote Control For Model Railroads, Pt.3;
July 1994: Build A 4-Bay Bow-Tie UHF Antenna; PreChamp 2-Tran15-Watt 12-240V Inverter; A Look At Hard Disc Drives.
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August 1994: High-Power Dimmer For Incandescent Lights;
Microprocessor-Controlled Morse Keyer; Dual Diversity Tuner For
FM Microphones, Pt.1; Nicad Zapper; Engine Management, Pt.11.
September 1996: VGA Oscilloscope, Pt.3; IR Stereo Headphone
Link, Pt.1; High Quality PA Loudspeaker; 3-Band HF Amateur Radio
Receiver; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.5.
September 1994: Automatic Discharger For Nicad Battery Packs;
MiniVox Voice Operated Relay; Image Intensified Night Viewer; AM
Radio For Weather Beacons; Dual Diversity Tuner For FM Microphones,
Pt.2; Engine Management, Pt.12.
October 1996: Send Video Signals Over Twisted Pair Cable; Power
Control With A Light Dimmer; 600W DC-DC Converter For Car Hifi
Systems, Pt.1; IR Stereo Headphone Link, Pt.2; Build A Multi-Media
Sound System, Pt.1; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter, Pt.8.
October 1994: How Dolby Surround Sound Works; Dual Rail Variable
Power Supply; Build A Talking Headlight Reminder; Electronic Ballast
For Fluorescent Lights; Build A Temperature Controlled Soldering
Station; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.13.
November 1996: Adding A Parallel Port To Your Computer; 8-Channel
Stereo Mixer, Pt.1; Low-Cost Fluorescent Light Inverter; How To Repair
Domestic Light Dimmers; Build A Multi-Media Sound System, Pt.2;
600W DC-DC Converter For Car Hifi Systems, Pt.2.
November 1994: Dry Cell Battery Rejuvenator; Novel Alphanumeric
Clock; 80-Metre DSB Amateur Transmitter; Twin-Cell Nicad Discharger
(See May 1993); How To Plot Patterns Direct to PC Boards.
December 1996: Active Filter Cleans Up CW Reception; Fast Clock
For Railway Modellers; Laser Pistol & Electronic Target; Build A
Sound Level Meter; 8-Channel Stereo Mixer, Pt.2; Index To Volume 9.
December 1994: Dolby Pro-Logic Surround Sound Decoder, Pt.1;
Easy-To-Build Car Burglar Alarm; Three-Spot Low Distortion Sinewave
Oscillator; Clifford – A Pesky Electronic Cricket; Remote Control
System for Models, Pt.1; Index to Vol.7.
January 1997: How To Network Your PC; Control Panel For Multiple
Smoke Alarms, Pt.1; Build A Pink Noise Source (For Sound Level
Meter Calibration); Computer Controlled Dual Power Supply, Pt.1;
Digi-Temp Monitors Eight Temperatures.
January 1995: Sun Tracker For Solar Panels; Battery Saver For Torches;
Dolby Pro-Logic Surround Sound Decoder, Pt.2; Dual Channel UHF
Remote Control; Stereo Microphone Preamplifier.
February 1997: Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.6; PC-Controlled
Moving Message Display; Computer Controlled Dual Power Supply,
Pt.2; Alert-A-Phone Loud Sounding Alarm; Control Panel For Multiple
Smoke Alarms, Pt.2.
February 1995: 50-Watt/Channel Stereo Amplifier Module; Digital Effects Unit For Musicians; 6-Channel Thermometer With LCD Readout;
Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers, Pt.1; Oil Change Timer For
Cars; Remote Control System For Models, Pt.2.
March 1995: 50 Watt Per Channel Stereo Amplifier, Pt.1; Subcarrier
Decoder For FM Receivers; Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers,
Pt.2; IR Illuminator For CCD Cameras; Remote Control System For
Models, Pt.3; Simple CW Filter.
April 1995: FM Radio Trainer, Pt.1; Photographic Timer For Dark
rooms; Balanced Microphone Preamp. & Line Filter; 50W/Channel
Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2; Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers, Pt.3;
8-Channel Decoder For Radio Remote Control.
October 1998: CPU Upgrades & Overclocking; Lab Quality AC Millivoltmeter, Pt.1; PC-Controlled Stress-O-Meter; Versatile Electronic
Guitar Limiter; 12V Trickle Charger For Float Conditions; Adding An
External Battery Pack To Your Flashgun.
November 1998: The Christmas Star (Microprocessor-Controlled
Christmas Decoration); A Turbo Timer For Cars; Build A Poker Machine,
Pt.1; FM Transmitter For Musicians; Lab Quality AC Millivoltmeter,
Pt.2; Setting Up A LAN Using TCP/IP; Understanding Electric Lighting,
Pt.9; Improving AM Radio Reception, Pt.1.
December 1998: Protect Your Car With The Engine Immobiliser Mk.2;
Thermocouple Adaptor For DMMs; A Regulated 12V DC Plugpack;
Build Your Own Poker Machine, Pt.2; Improving AM Radio Reception,
Pt.2; Mixer Module For F3B Glider Operations.
January 1999: The Y2K Bug & A Few Other Worries; High-Voltage
Megohm Tester; Getting Going With BASIC Stamp; LED Bargraph
Ammeter For Cars; Keypad Engine Immobiliser; Improving AM Radio
Reception, Pt.3; Electric Lighting, Pt.10
February 1999: Installing A Computer Network (Network Types, Hubs,
Switches & Routers); Making Front Panels For Your Projects; Low
Distortion Audio Signal Generator, Pt.1; Command Control Decoder
For Model Railways; Build A Digital Capacitance Meter; Remote Control
Tester; Electric Lighting, Pt.11.
March 1997: Driving A Computer By Remote Control; Plastic Power
PA Amplifier (175W); Signalling & Lighting For Model Railways; Build
A Jumbo LED Clock; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.7.
March 1999: Getting Started With Linux; Pt.1; Build A Digital
Anemometer; 3-Channel Current Monitor With Data Logging; Simple
DIY PIC Programmer; Easy-To-Build Audio Compressor; Low Distortion Audio Signal Generator, Pt.2; Electric Lighting, Pt.12.
April 1997: Simple Timer With No ICs; Digital Voltmeter For Cars;
Loudspeaker Protector For Stereo Amplifiers; Model Train Controller;
A Look At Signal Tracing; Pt.1; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.8.
April 1999: Getting Started With Linux; Pt.2; High-Power Electric
Fence Controller; Bass Cube Subwoofer; Programmable Thermostat/
Thermometer; Build An Infrared Sentry; Rev Limiter For Cars; Electric
Lighting, Pt.13; Autopilots For Radio-Controlled Model Aircraft.
May 1997: Teletext Decoder For PCs; Build An NTSC-PAL Converter;
Neon Tube Modulator For Light Systems; Traffic Lights For A Model
Intersection; The Spacewriter – It Writes Messages In Thin Air; A Look
At Signal Tracing; Pt.2; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.9.
May 1999: The Line Dancer Robot; An X-Y Table With Stepper Motor
Control, Pt.1; Three Electric Fence Testers; Heart Of LEDs; Build A
Carbon Monoxide Alarm; Getting Started With Linux; Pt.3.
May 1995: Build A Guitar Headphone Amplifier; FM Radio Trainer,
Pt.2; Transistor/Mosfet Tester For DMMs; A 16-Channel Decoder For
Radio Remote Control; Introduction to Satellite TV.
June 1997: PC-Controlled Thermometer/Thermostat; Colour TV
Pattern Generator, Pt.1; Build An Audio/RF Signal Tracer; High-Current
Speed Controller For 12V/24V Motors; Manual Control Circuit For A
Stepper Motor; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.10.
June 1999: FM Radio Tuner Card For PCs; X-Y Table With Stepper
Motor Control, Pt.2; Programmable Ignition Timing Module For
Cars, Pt.1; Hard Disk Drive Upgrades Without Reinstalling Software;
What Is A Groundplane Antenna?; Getting Started With Linux; Pt.4.
June 1995: Build A Satellite TV Receiver; Train Detector For Model
Railways; 1W Audio Amplifier Trainer; Low-Cost Video Security
System; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter For Models, Pt.1.
July 1997: Infrared Remote Volume Control; A Flexible Interface
Card For PCs; Points Controller For Model Railways; Simple Square/
Triangle Waveform Generator; Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.2; An
In-Line Mixer For Radio Control Receivers.
July 1999: Build The Dog Silencer; A 10µH to 19.99mH Inductance
Meter; Build An Audio-Video Transmitter; Programmable Ignition
Timing Module For Cars, Pt.2; XYZ Table With Stepper Motor Control,
Pt.3; The Hexapod Robot.
August 1997: The Bass Barrel Subwoofer; 500 Watt Audio Power
Amplifier Module; A TENs Unit For Pain Relief; Addressable PC Card
For Stepper Motor Control; Remote Controlled Gates For Your Home.
August 1999: Remote Modem Controller; Daytime Running Lights For
Cars; Build A PC Monitor Checker; Switching Temperature Controller;
XYZ Table With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.4; Electric Lighting, Pt.14;
DOS & Windows Utilities For Reversing Protel PC Board Files.
July 1995: Electric Fence Controller; How To Run Two Trains On A
Single Track (Incl. Lights & Sound); Setting Up A Satellite TV Ground
Station; Build A Reliable Door Minder.
August 1995: Fuel Injector Monitor For Cars; Gain Controlled Microphone Preamp; Audio Lab PC-Controlled Test Instrument, Pt.1; How
To Identify IDE Hard Disk Drive Parameters.
September 1995: Railpower Mk.2 Walkaround Throttle For Model
Railways, Pt.1; Keypad Combination Lock; The Vader Voice; Jacob’s
Ladder Display; Audio Lab PC-Controlled Test Instrument, Pt.2.
October 1995: Geiger Counter; 3-Way Bass Reflex Loudspeaker
System; Railpower Mk.2 Walkaround Throttle For Model Railways,
Pt.2; Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries; Digital Speedometer & Fuel
Gauge For Cars, Pt.1.
November 1995: Mixture Display For Fuel Injected Cars; CB Transverter
For The 80M Amateur Band, Pt.1; PIR Movement Detector; Dolby Pro
Logic Surround Sound Decoder Mk.2, Pt.1; Digital Speedometer &
Fuel Gauge For Cars, Pt.2.
December 1995: Engine Immobiliser; 5-Band Equaliser; CB Transverter For The 80M Amateur Band, Pt.2; Subwoofer Controller; Dolby
Pro Logic Surround Sound Decoder Mk.2, Pt.2; Knock Sensing In
Cars; Index To Volume 8.
January 1996: Surround Sound Mixer & Decoder, Pt.1; Magnetic Card
Reader; Build An Automatic Sprinkler Controller; IR Remote Control
For The Railpower Mk.2; Recharging Nicad Batteries For Long Life.
February 1996: Three Remote Controls To Build; Woofer Stopper
Mk.2; 10-Minute Kill Switch For Smoke Detectors; Basic Logic Trainer;
Surround Sound Mixer & Decoder, Pt.2.
March 1996: Programmable Electronic Ignition System; Zener Diode
Tester For DMMs; Automatic Level Control For PA Systems; 20ms
Delay For Surround Sound Decoders; Multi-Channel Radio Control
Transmitter; Pt.2; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.1.
April 1996: Cheap Battery Refills For Mobile Telephones; 125W
Audio Power Amplifier Module; Knock Indicator For Leaded Petrol
Engines; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter; Pt.3; Cathode
Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.2.
May 1996: Upgrading The CPU In Your PC; High Voltage Insulation
Tester; Knightrider Bi-Directional LED Chaser; Simple Duplex Intercom
Using Fibre Optic Cable; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.3.
September 1997: Multi-Spark Capacitor Discharge Ignition; 500W
Audio Power Amplifier, Pt.2; A Video Security System For Your Home;
PC Card For Controlling Two Stepper Motors; HiFi On A Budget; Win95,
MSDOS.SYS & The Registry.
October 1997: Build A 5-Digit Tachometer; Add Central Locking To
Your Car; PC-Controlled 6-Channel Voltmeter; 500W Audio Power
Amplifier, Pt.3; Customising The Windows 95 Start Menu.
November 1997: Heavy Duty 10A 240VAC Motor Speed Controller;
Easy-To-Use Cable & Wiring Tester; Build A Musical Doorbell; Relocating Your CD-ROM Drive; Replacing Foam Speaker Surrounds;
Understanding Electric Lighting Pt.1.
December 1997: Build A Speed Alarm For Your Car; Two-Axis Robot
With Gripper; Loudness Control For Car Hifi Systems; Stepper Motor
Driver With Onboard Buffer; Power Supply For Stepper Motor Cards;
Understanding Electric Lighting Pt.2; Index To Volume 10.
September 1999: Automatic Addressing On TCP/IP Networks;
Wireless Networking Without The Hassles; Autonomouse The Robot,
Pt.1; Voice Direct Speech Recognition Module; Digital Electrolytic
Capacitance Meter; XYZ Table With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.5;
Peltier-Powered Can Cooler.
October 1999: Sharing A Modem For Internet & Email Access (WinGate); Build The Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.1; Semiconductor
Curve Tracer; Autonomouse The Robot, Pt.2; XYZ Table With Stepper
Motor Control, Pt.6; Introducing Home Theatre.
November 1999: USB – Hassle-Free Connections TO Your PC; Electric
Lighting, Pt.15; Setting Up An Email Server; Speed Alarm For Cars,
Pt.1; Multi-Colour LED Christmas Tree; Build An Intercom Station
Expander; Foldback Loudspeaker System For Musicians; Railpower
Model Train Controller, Pt.2.
January 1998: Build Your Own 4-Channel Lightshow, Pt.1 (runs off
12VDC or 12VAC); Command Control System For Model Railways,
Pt.1; Pan Controller For CCD Cameras; Build A One Or Two-Lamp
Flasher; Understanding Electric Lighting, Pt.3.
December 1999: Internet Connection Sharing Using Hardware; Electric
Lighting, Pt.16; Index To Volume 12; Build A Solar Panel Regulator;
The PC Powerhouse (gives fixed +12V, +9V, +6V & +5V rails); The
Fortune Finder Metal Locator; Speed Alarm For Cars, Pt.2; Railpower
Model Train Controller, Pt.3.
February 1998: Hot Web Sites For Surplus Bits; Multi-Purpose Fast
Battery Charger, Pt.1; Telephone Exchange Simulator For Testing;
Command Control System For Model Railways, Pt.2; Build Your Own
4-Channel Lightshow, Pt.2; Understanding Electric Lighting, Pt.4.
January 2000: Spring Reverberation Module; An Audio-Video Test
Generator; Build The Picman Programmable Robot; A Parallel Port
Interface Card; Off-Hook Indicator For Telephone Lines; B&W Nautilus
801 Monitor Loudspeakers (Review).
April 1998: Automatic Garage Door Opener, Pt.1; 40V 8A Adjustable
Power Supply, Pt.1; PC-Controlled 0-30kHz Sinewave Generator;
Build A Laser Light Show; Understanding Electric Lighting; Pt.6; Jet
Engines In Model Aircraft.
February 2000: Build A Multi-Sector Sprinkler Controller; A Digital
Voltmeter For Your Car; An Ultrasonic Parking Radar; Build A Safety
Switch Checker; A Sine/Square Wave Oscillator For Your Workbench;
Marantz SR-18 Home Theatre Receiver (Review); The “Hot Chip”
Starter Kit (Review).
May 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.1; Build A 3-LED Logic Probe;
Automatic Garage Door Opener, Pt.2; Command Control For Model
Railways, Pt.4; 40V 8A Adjustable Power Supply, Pt.2.
June 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.2; Understanding Electric
Lighting, Pt.7; Universal High Energy Ignition System; The Roadies’
Friend Cable Tester; Universal Stepper Motor Controller; Command
Control For Model Railways, Pt.5.
June 1996: BassBox CAD Loudspeaker Software Reviewed; Stereo
Simulator (uses delay chip); Rope Light Chaser; Low Ohms Tester
For Your DMM; Automatic 10A Battery Charger.
July 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.3 (Installing A Modem And
Sorting Out Problems); Build A Heat Controller; 15-Watt Class-A Audio
Amplifier Module; Simple Charger For 6V & 12V SLA Batteries; Automatic Semiconductor Analyser; Understanding Electric Lighting, Pt.8.
July 1996: Installing a Dual Boot Windows System On Your PC;
Build A VGA Digital Oscilloscope, Pt.1; Remote Control Extender For
VCRs; 2A SLA Battery Charger; 3-Band Parametric Equaliser; Single
Channel 8-bit Data Logger.
August 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.4 (Adding Extra Memory
To Your PC); Build The Opus One Loudspeaker System; Simple I/O
Card With Automatic Data Logging; Build A Beat Triggered Strobe; A
15-Watt Per Channel Class-A Stereo Amplifier.
August 1996: Electronics on the Internet; Customising the Windows
Desktop; Introduction to IGBTs; Electronic Starter For Fluorescent
Lamps; VGA Oscilloscope, Pt.2; 350W Amplifier Module; Masthead
Amplifier For TV & FM; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.4.
September 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.5 (Software Problems
& DOS Games); A Blocked Air-Filter Alarm; A Waa-Waa Pedal For
Your Guitar; Build A Plasma Display Or Jacob’s Ladder; Gear Change
Indicator For Cars; Capacity Indicator For Rechargeable Batteries.
March 2000: Doing A Lazarus On An Old Computer; Ultra Low Distortion 100W Amplifier Module, Pt.1; Electronic Wind Vane With 16-LED
Display; Glowplug Driver For Powered Models; The OzTrip Car Computer, Pt.1; Multisim Circuit Design & Simulation Package (Review).
April 2000: A Digital Tachometer For Your Car; RoomGuard – A LowCost Intruder Alarm; Build A Hot wire Cutter; The OzTrip Car Computer,
Pt.2; Build A Temperature Logger; Atmel’s ICE 200 In-Circuit Emulator;
How To Run A 3-Phase Induction Motor From 240VAC.
PLEASE NOTE: November 1987 to August 1988, October 1988 to
March 1989, June 1989, August 1989, December 1989, May 1990,
August 1991, February 1992, July 1992, September 1992, November
1992, December 1992 and March 1998 are now sold out. All other
issues are presently in stock. For readers wanting articles from
sold-out issues, we can supply photostat copies (or tear sheets) at
$7.00 per article (includes p&p). When supplying photostat articles
or back copies, we automatically supply any relevant notes & errata
at no extra charge. A complete index to all articles published to date is
available on floppy disc for $10 including p&p, or can be downloaded
free from our web site: www.siliconchip.com.au
May 2000 39
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
When is a fault not a fault?
A common problem with some customers is that
they don’t tell you all the symptoms of a fault or
don’t mention some faults at all. The most
obvious fault may be mentioned but when
another one appears, the customer invariably
shrugs his shoulders and says “Oh yes, it does
that too”. It can be annoying at times.
But first, to that heading; when
is a fault not a fault? That comment
is not as facetious as it may appear.
This story is a secondhand one and
I was involved as little more than a
spectator. Nevertheless, it is a story
well worth telling if only because the
solution was quite unexpected.
A friend of mine who is interested
in computers decided to purchase two
secondhand Pentium 133 computers
on which to network his family business. He was assured that they were
in good working order but when he
set them up at home, neither would
boot up – there was just a blank screen.
However, if he switched them off
and then on again immediately they
worked fine.
This made him think that there was
either something wrong with the setup
or with hardware compatibility, so he
started experimenting. First, he tried
a succession of different monitors and
found that some worked perfectly and
others didn’t – even though none of
the “faulty” monitors gave trouble
on any other computer. So was there
some incompatibility between the
non-working SVGA monitors and
the motherboards fitted in the two
computers?
If so, the problem could be either
in the energy saver function or multisync resolution but he could find no
correlation between these features or
why some monitors worked and some
didn’t. In the meantime he asked me
and several other people he knew
if we had a clue as to why this was
happening. But although we suggested various things to try in the BIOS,
plus checking the links on the motherboard, he wasn’t getting anywhere.
Then, one day, he connected one of
the computers to one of the monitors
that originally wouldn’t work and
suddenly it all worked perfectly. He
repeated this test several times and it
booted up every time.
It was then he realised he had
Sets Covered This Month
• Pentium 133 Computer.
• Sherwood Home Theatre RV-4070R
•
•
•
40 Silicon Chip
Amplifier.
NEC N3419 TV set.
Akai CT-21WA9AT
Philips 2SSP1788/75R TV Set
This speaker terminal panel came
with an unusual manufacturing fault,
as indicated by the yellow circle.
accidentally forgotten to plug in the
keyboard. No big deal – he plugged
it in and the fault was back! Could
it be a faulty keyboard? He acquired
another keyboard and plugged it in
and this time all was well. He checked
the first keyboard on other computers
and could find nothing wrong with it.
So what was the difference between
the keyboard that produced the fault
and the one that didn’t?
Well, the former was a 101-key keyboard, while the latter was a 105-key
Windows 95 type. As he had plenty
of others around he tried a variety of
keyboards and established that the
problem was entirely due to the computers being incompatible with the
older 101 keyboards (pre-Windows
95). Naturally, he was relieved to have
discovered a cure although, strictly
speaking, it wasn’t really a fault at all.
(Editor’s note: this problem is generally due to an incompatibility between
the keyboard controller chip on the
motherboard and the microcontroller
in the keyboard itself).
Fig.1: part of the switchmode power supply in the NEC N3419. The 5-pin IC,
Q801, is at lower right. It’s heatsink had been loaded with five extra heat
sinks in an effort to control overheating.
was narrowed down to the speaker
connections.
It applied to the right channel only,
where wiggling the speaker leads
even slightly was enough to cause
the amplifier to close down. Curious,
I placed an ohmmeter across the terminals with the set switched off and
inserted a speaker lead in the negative
terminal. As I did so, the multimeter
showed a dead short.
As shown in the accompanying
photo, the spring-loaded speaker
terminals were part of a panel, with
the positive (red) terminals at the top
and negative (black) terminals along
the bottom. Initially, it was hard to
see how this setup could possi
bly
produce an intermittent short circuit,
as the two terminals are well spaced.
Home theatre system
Young David, a 17-year old, was
very proud of his Sherwood Home
Theatre RV-4070R amplifier but he
had become very concerned that it was
intermittently cutting off. He could
not think why it was happening as he
was sure he was taking good care of it.
Eventually, he go fed up with it and
decided to take his pride and joy to
the “doctor’s” to get it fixed. To begin
with, I had great difficulty in getting it
to produce the fault and was about to
dismiss it as being something external
to the amplifier, when it finally failed.
Eventually, after a lot of tapping, heating, cooling and various other tests,
which young David really wouldn’t
want to know about, the problem
May 2000 41
It all became clear when I removed
the terminal panel and took a close
look at the back. As shown in the
photo, the tinplate connectors from
the terminals are all brought out along
a common edge. The connectors from
the red (top) terminals are towards the
rear, while the connectors from the
black (bottom) terminals sit closer to
the panel.
Unfortunately, due to a manufacturing defect, the connector for the
right channel negative terminal had
not been pushed all the way down
into the plastic moulding. Instead, it
was loose and could easily come into
contact with the positive terminal
connector behind it.
And, as I quickly discovered, inserting the speaker lead only made
things worse. When this was done,
the spring-loaded plastic tab pushed
against the lead which in turn pushed
the metal connector backwards so that
it came into contact with the positive
connector.
Fortunately, the cure was a simple
42 Silicon Chip
one – I pushed the connector all the
way into the plastic moulding using
a flat-bladed screwdriver and used a
dab of super glue to ensure it wouldn’t
come loose again. It was a rather
strange fault but at least the repair
was easy and it didn’t take too long
to track down.
A set from the country
There’s often quite a bit of difference between service work in the city
as compared to the country and that
was brought home to me recently by
this story.
City technicians generally have
much better access to technical information and spare parts than their
country cousins. In the country, it
really is a case of sometimes making
do and inventing solutions from limited resources. Obviously, if a country
serviceman only has a 100µF capacitor
and the circuit calls for a 47µF, the
100µF capacitor will have to do.
The Hayes lived in the country on
a small farm and they had had a few
problems with their 34cm NEC N3419
portable. This little set uses a Daewoo
C43 chassis, is made in Korea, and is
very popular with many brands. But
it is getting a little ancient now.
The set had been cutting out intermittently for quite some time and
though the local technician had tried
his best on several occasions, it was
finally brought in on a trip to the city.
When I removed the back cover, I
was immediately aware of an array
of four extra heatsinks which had
been screwed onto the manufacturer’s
original heatsink for Q801 (STR5412),
5-pin IC in the switchmode power
supply. I also noticed several possible dry joints and there was brown
goo everywhere, especially around
IC 1502.
Despite all the extra heatsinks, they
still became extremely hot when the
set was running which explained why
the set was intermittently cutting out.
The reason wasn’t hard to find – the
high tension was high at 120V instead
of 103V, as shown on the circuit.
And that brings me to the real point
of this story. The manufacturer has
issued some modifications for this
circuit, a fact that would be unknown
to many technicians in remote areas.
These modifications involve two
capacitors, C811 and C808, both originally specified as 4700pF.
Anyway, I replaced the IC (Q801),
removed the additional heatsinks, and
changed C811 and C808 to 2200pF and
.001µF respectively, as recommended
by the manufacturer. I also attended
to the suspect joints and cleaned up
the brown goo.
Anyway, the set was now delivering
the correct 103V HT and was running
cool. The height had to be readjusted
but that was that.
I don’t know how much extra life
the additional heatsinks gave to this
set but at least the bloke was trying
with whatever came to hand. And
he wouldn’t have known about the
manufacturer’s modifications.
Finally, I would remind all those
who work on this chassis to always
change C434, a 10µF 160VW electrolytic capacitor on pin 4 of the horizontal output transformer. This will
help avoid expensive pyrotechnics.
Akai TV receiver
Mr Keenan brought in his 2-year
old Akai CT-21WA9AT 53cm TV set,
complaining that it would switch off
by itself after a while and that there
was a white line across the screen.
Consid
ering the set was so new, I
asked him if it might still be under
warranty but it wasn’t.
With the back off, it didn’t take long
to determine that the fault was in the
vertical output stage, IC401. This stage
takes its supply (Vcc3, pin 11) from
pin 4 of the horizontal output transformer (T402) and was loading the
horizontal output stage. The vertical
stage was drawing too much current
and this, in turn, caused Q403 to
eventually turn the set off.
Replacing the IC fixed the problem
but I was a bit nervous as to what
had caused it to fail in the first place.
I started by replacing the two electrolytics (C910, C912) in the power
supply. I also checked the HT which
was correct at 110V and then had a
chat with a friendly Akai service agent
that I know.
He got onto the Akai Service Guide
CTV-042 Code 204 on the Internet.
This suggested that three 0.1µF green
mylar capacitors – C911, C424 and
C351 – should be changed in the CT2119AT series, to which this set belongs. He also showed me a few other
modifications which, at the time, were
irrelevant to the symptoms at hand.
I changed the three green capacitors
but I must say I was rather surprised
at the advice to do so as I haven’t
previously had any problems with
this type of capacitor. To be on the
safe side, I also replaced a few suspect-looking electrolytic capaci
tors
around the vertical IC. By now, I was
feeling pretty confident, so I boxed it
up and put it aside for soak testing.
Some time later, I decided to check
on the precarious state of some of my
shares. “Why not use Teletext?”, I
thought. The Akai was the nearest set
to hand but when I hit the text button
on Channel 7, it didn’t immediately
show the Index on page 100. Instead,
the display was a mixture of text
from a variety of pages and the clock
jumped from time to time instead of
showing every second.
Now Teletext can be a rather temperamental feature and is highly
dependent on a good quality signal
(preferably with no ghosting and
not too strong). With this in mind, I
checked the reception on Channel 7
and it looked great. Just to make sure,
I tuned in a UHF translator station and
checked the text there too but again
the Teletext was quite poor. I then
tried another TV set, which performed
perfectly.
Obviously there was a fault in the
Teletext section of the Akai – but
where to start? I thought I would begin with the easy things, like the RF
AGC. To do this, it is necessary to put
the set into the Test mode or Adjust
Menu, by switching the set off and
on again while holding the volume +
and - buttons at the same time.
Pressing 2 on the remote keyboard
brings on the RF AGC adjust menu
which I then adjusted with + and - on
the remote control, until the snow on
the screen just disappeared. I then
turned the set off and on again. This
made no difference to the Teletext
reception, which was slowly getting
worse, with the clock not appearing
for a very long time.
Mr Keenan then phoned to ask
about the set’s progress and I told him
that although I had fixed the two faults
he had complained about, there was
still a problem with the Teletext. My
immediate impression was that Mr
Keenan had known about this problem
all along because he wasn’t the slightest bit surprised. Now Teletext hasn’t
been a huge success in this country
and most people can take it or leave
it but not Mr Keenan – he definitely
wanted it fixed.
And so I delved back into the guts
of the set. The Teletext circuit consists
of only two ICs (IC801 and IC802)
and two transistors (Q801 and Q802).
Surely it shouldn’t be that hard to
fix! I began by checking the 5V rail
to this circuit and it was spot on. I
then checked that crystal X801 was
oscillating at 13.875MHz, which it
was. The CRO also told me that I had
video all the way to pin 3 of IC801.
Unfortunately, there is no further
technical information on the Teletext
circuit (no block diagram or voltages),
except for the adjustment of variable
inductor T801 – this should give 2.5V
on pin 28 of IC801. And that was my
first clue – this voltage was low at
only 0.5V and adjusting T801 didn’t
make much difference, although the
display became worse after losing its
horizontal hold.
I also noticed other problems with
text – in the mix mode, the text characters would lose their horizontal sync
and tear. By delicately setting T801 I
could almost lock it, implying a loss
May 2000 43
of some sort of sync.
I checked the two transistors and
all the diodes and they were all OK.
Frankly, I was running out of ideas.
I went back to my Akai mate and he
found that there was a modification
involving an extra 1µF capacitor between pin 21 of IC801 (the 5V supply)
and chassis. Encouraged, I hastened
back to fit it only to find the set had
already been modified on the PC
board side.
There was nothing for it but to order
and replace the components I couldn’t
really check, namely the two ICs, the
crystal, inductor T801 and varicap
diode CD801. I decided to change the
crystal because, although it may be
oscillating, there could be something
wrong with the amplitude.
While I was waiting for the new
parts, I experimented with heating
and freezing all the relevant circuits.
This made no difference except that
the problem was gradually getting
worse. Eventually over $100 worth of
parts arrived and I fitted them one at a
time to try to pinpoint the culprit. Unfortunately, they made no difference.
Once again I pestered my Akai
mate and this time he found a page
of AASC Service Hints for this series
with similar (but not exactly the same)
symptoms. This suggested EEPROM
IC602 – ST24CO4(SGS) – and the reader can imagine my frustration when
it arrived and still didn’t fix the fault.
There are only about 50 components
44 Silicon Chip
in this circuit and I had already
replaced five of the main items –
only 45 to go.
I started with the capacitors,
especially the high capacity
(104) brown ceramic types that
often give trouble, and work
ed down. I also replaced the
two electrolytics (C803 and
C811) but nothing made
any difference.
By now, this repair was
no longer economic but I hated
being beaten, especially after
all my work. I now decided to
measure all the resistors, starting
with the highest values first and
working my way down.
Everything was fine until I came
to R806 33kΩ. It measured high
at nearly 1MΩ. By the time I had
removed it, it was even higher.
This, I felt sure, was it. I
replaced the resistor, fitted
everything back into position
and switched it on. The first thing
I had to do now was to retune T801
for 2.5V on pin 28. This time, the
voltage was much healthier and it
didn’t take much adjustment to reach
the correct value. What’s more, the
screen was displaying the full index
and the clock was updating every
second. Even in mix mode, the text
was perfect and locked solid.
It is extremely unusual for a 33kΩ
0.5W resistor to go high in this
manner. The problem now is what
to charge for finding and fixing it.
Whatever the figure is, it won’t be
big enough!
Different standards
It is always interesting to see the
varying approaches used by different
countries to achieve the same result.
With today’s multinational companies, it is not unusual to see European chipsets fitted in Asian TV sets,
though often without large chunks
of the technology within those chips
being used.
Almost all Asian factories (Japan,
Korea, Taiwan, Hong Kong and
China) have the aquadag of the CRT
connected to chassis, whereas Philips
and other European sets use an above
chassis design connecting to a beam
limiting circuit. Aquadag, by the way,
is the water-based metallic black paint
on the exterior of the picture tube – it
acts as a large capacitor plate, in con
junction with the internal anode, to
filter the EHT.
One of the main problems when servicing TV sets is finding a convenient
and reliable chassis reference point for
the meter. However, one can depend
on Asian manufacturers with their
chassis connected tubes.
R e c e n t l y, I h a d a P h i l i p s
2SSP1788/75R Symphobass come in
with low contrast and brightness. The
first problem was to work out what
chassis was used and whether it was
designed for Australia standards. It
was built around 1991 and for those
familiar with the Philips nomenclature, these points can be worked out
from the model number.
I had to look it up and the Australian
version is a G112S (a variant of the
G110 series). Because Philips have
used the above-chassis system in their
colour TV sets since the K9 chassis
in 1974, I knew from experience to
expect approximately +15V on the
tube aquadag with respect to chassis,
depending on the beam current drawn
at the time.
Based on this background, I went
straight to this point and was not
surprised to find it measured 0V.
Following the path back from the
aquadag to the beam limiting circuit
was not so easy. The lead goes onto
the CRT socket board (circuit C) and
out via plug and socket 4P2/1S7 to
D63. This then goes to plug and socket
1M7 (circuit D) and to the chassis end
of the EHT tripler (pin 7) inside the
horizontal output transformer (5901).
From there, the path follows the
“AQUA” D103 line and this goes to
TP43.
A number of circuits are involved
with the beam limiting. First, there is
TR7911, a protection transistor, and
then the east/west circuit and vertical
outputs, which are connected to keep
a constant picture size during changes
in beam current.
I was looking for a source for the
15V DC but with so many affiliated
circuits, I wasn’t sure which was the
significant one. A beam limiting line
ran via plug and socket C74 back to the
C circuit so I decided to start looking
here first.
To cut a long story sort, I finally
found that resistor R3970 (22kΩ) between the +34V rail and the beam limit
line (C74) was open circuit. Replacing
it restored the brightness and contrast
– and the average 15V on the aquadag.
One can be lucky sometimes. SC
SILICON
CHIP
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PRODUCT SHOWCASE
Exceptional new Agilent
scopes from HP
Agilent Technologies Australia Pty
Ltd, a subsidiary of Hewlett-Packard,
has introduced a series of five oscilloscopes which combines the channel
count, memory depth, display definition and triggering that design engineers need to debug mixed analog
and digital designs.
Users can now easily see more
signal detail when debugging and
verifying mixed analog and digital
designs.
The Agilent 54600 series now offers multiple-channel configurations:
2- and 4-scope channels or the mixed
signal oscilloscope (MSO) with 2+16
channels (two analog channels plus
16 integrated digital channels); 2MB
of MegaZoom deep memory that respond instantly to control inputs; a
high‑definition display system and
powerful triggering.
These four attributes differentiate
the Agilent 54600 series oscilloscopes from other 100MHz scopes
and address the challenges of the
digital designer.
The 2+16 MSO models (60MHz
54621D and 100MHz
54622D) combine the
detailed signal analysis of a ’scope with
the multi‑channel
timing measurements
of a logic analyser.
Users can view two
analog and up to
16 digital signals simultaneously, to debug microcontroller
problems that would
stymie a conventional scope, such as
triggering on a mix of
digital bus states and
analog signals.
The 4‑channel,
100MHz scope (54624A) gives engineers the channel count and measurement power they need for designs
that include heavy analog content.
There are also budget 2-channel
models (60MHz 54621A and 100MHz
54622A).
All models have two megabytes of
“MegaZoom” deep memory behind
every channel which provide deep
capture without the sluggish response
and complex operation associated
with some deep‑memory scopes.
Because MegaZoom is not a special mode, it is always available to
help find details buried in complex
signals, to discover anomalies in the
absence of good triggering events,
and to correlate high‑speed digital
control signals with slower analog
signals.
This, combined with the high‑
definition display system, provides
unsurpassed horizontal screen resolution and the ability to map deep
memory into 32 levels of gray scale at
up to 25 million vectors per second.
This combination enables users to
view and understand complex signal
details. It also greatly decreases the
chance of missing a narrow, occasional transient, or overlooking a
glitch or distorted edge that impacts
circuit operation.
Further information on these
products may be found on the Web
at www.agilent.com/find/MegaZoom
For further information on pricing,
availability and technical information, contact 1800 629 485 or email
on info_tmo<at>agilent.com
May 2000 53
Digital-ready TV signal analyser
Matchmaster Communications has
introduced the Italian-made RO.VE.R.
TDA-4a, a lightweight, battery operated digital field strength meter for the
TV installation and service industries.
With a frequency range of 47MHz to
870MHz, the instrument covers both
VHF and UHF TV as well as FM radio
channels used in Australia. It can
carry out the following measurements:
video carrier level, digital package
average power, audio carrier level,
FM radio carrier level, audio/video
carrier delta plus analog and digital
TV carrier to noise ratios.
All measurements are shown on a
multi-mode LCD panel which gives a
variety of readings.
A switchable FM or AM universal
audio demodulator is also tunable
from 44MHz to 870MHz. Received au-
Safer fume extractors
dio can be heard through
an inbuilt speaker. An
inbuilt rechargeable
NiCd battery pack gives
up to 12 hours portable use. A 240V mains
adaptor and 12V DC car
cigarette lighter adapter
are also included. These
will power the unit as
well as charge the battery.
The meter is fitted
with a male “F” style
75Ω RF input connector with male to female
and F to IEC adaptors
supplied.
The instrument is housed in a heavy
duty plastic carry case which also has
provision for storing the test leads and
power supply.
For the TV antenna installer, the
CATV cabler and related areas, a
device such as this would save an
enormous amount of time and trouble.
Being able to read signal strengths
directly over all the required channels
would make antenna aiming a breeze
and also the detection of faults much
more simple.
With a trade price of $1300, the
RO.VE.R. TDA-4a is available through
sole agent in Australia, Matchmaster
Communications, 48-50 Belmore Rd,
Punchbowl NSW 2196. Phone (02)
9153 6666, Fax (02) 9153 9099 .
The Alsident System ESD 50 and
ESD 100 series of fume exhaust arms
from Pyrotek are the first to gain
certification for use in electrostatic
discharge sensitive and explosion
sensitive applications.
This certification is also good news
for computer and other electronics
manufacturers whose reject rates are
lessened by any measure that lowers
the risk of electrostatic discharge
through sensitive components.
It is equally important for laboratories or chemical, pharmaceutical
and food industries facing the need to
exhaust powders, combustible gases or
dust/air mixtures or fumes which pose
possible explosion hazards. Extracting
solder fumes is another example.
The systems can be mounted on a
wall, worktable or ceiling and the three
joints enable the operator to effortlessly position the mount anywhere
within its 1350mm reach.
Adhesive resins do not threaten the
conductivity of the system. The entire
pipe system displays a resistance of
substantially less than 1MΩ.
The ESD 50 extracts at 85 cubic
metres per hour while the ESD 100
exhausts at 400 cubic metres per hour.
Over 100 variations in seven models of fume extractors are available
with details in a free 18-page booklet,
available on request to Pyrotek, 147
Magowar Road, Girraween NSW 2145.
Phone (02) 9361 1333.
Telephone Technical Services imports new US range of phone test equipment
One of the side-benefits to the deregulation of the Australian telephone
industry is increased access to installation, service and maintenance work
for approved personnel. However, the
availability of suitable equipment has
been something of a problem.
A Brisbane company, Telephone
Technical Services, recognised the
need for a range of high
quality telephone and
line test equipment and
so has recently started
importing the US-made
“Test-Um Inc” range.
Of particular interest
are the phone test sets
(called “butt phones”) which offer a
broad range of testing facilities. There
54 Silicon Chip
are two in the range, the
“Lil’ Buttie” LB100 and the
“Lil’ Buttie Pro” LB200. The
big difference between the
two is an LCD panel on the
Pro model which reveals
even more information
about the line under test
– even caller ID information.
Other equipment includes tone generators and tracers, tell-all testers for
both phone and data lines and similar
devices.
For more information
contact Telephone Technical Services on (07) 3286
6388, Fax (07) 3286 6399,
or via their website at www.
ttservices.com.au
Security video recorder with time-lapse
With the proliferation of miniature
video cameras (see below), many
organisations have linked video recordings into their security systems.
Usually a standard VCR is pressed
into service but these have several
shortcomings in this application.
Jaycar Electronics have addressed
this problem with the release of a
video recorder specifically designed
for the purpose. Its major advantage is
a variety of recording modes including
the ability to store 24 hours of video
and audio on a single E-180 (three
hour) VHS tape.
Recording times can be programmed for certain periods on a daily
or weekly time frame, they can be
continuous or they can be time-lapse.
They can also be triggered by devices
normally used to trigger an alarm (eg,
PIRs, light beams, door switches, etc)
or by the alarm unit itself.
When an alarm event is triggered,
the recorder will sound a buzzer
and record for a
predetermined period. Alarm event
information is also
recorded and up to
eight events can be
displayed, by date
and time, on an
external monitor.
At the end of the
tape the recorder can be set to rewind
and re-record the same tape or it can
eject the tape and wait for a new tape
to be inserted. A further possibility
is the use of additional recorders
in series where at tape end the first
signals the second to start recording
and so on.
Various playback modes are available including standard, slow, fieldby-field, reverse direction and slow
reverse direction.
Rear panel connectors are provided
for video, audio, alarm in (trigger),
alarm reset, alarm out, one shot trigger, trigger out, tape end, series in
and series out. The recorder operates
on 240V AC
With a recommended retail price
of $995.00, the QV-3050 Time-Lapse
VCR is available from Jaycar Electronics stores throughout Australia or via
the Jaycar Mail Order service (Phone
02 9745 3222) or their website: www.
jaycar.com.au
Mini video cameras to suit
Two miniature video cameras, one
colour and one monochrome (b&w),
which would mate perfectly with the
above Time-lapse VCR are also available through Jaycar Stores.
Both are pinhole models, meaning
a hole only a couple of millimetres in
diameter is needed to view through.
Camera size is just 36mm square x
30mm including lens.
Both feature audio and video outputs, the audio via an RCA connector
and video via a BNC connector. Power
(12V DC <at> 120mA b&w, 130mA colour) is via a standard 2.1mm DC jack.
Video output is 1V pk-pk <at> 75Ω and
the B&W model operates down to 0.1
Lux (that equates to a scene lit by dim
moonlight!). These cameras also respond well to infrared (invisible) light.
The colour camera requires 2 Lux.
A tiny swivel mounting bracket is
also supplied
which would
enable the
camera to be
permanently
mounted and
aimed.
The B&W
model has a
1/3-inch Sony
CCD image
sensor giving 400 line resolution while
the colour camera features a 1/4-inch
CCD sensor and 330 line resolution.
The monochrome camera (QC3476)
has a recommended retail price
of $149.00 and the colour version
(QC3486) sells for $229.00. For more
information see page 127 of the new
Jaycar catalog, visit any Jaycar Electronics store or visit the website, www.
jaycar.com.au
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May 2000 55
Over the years, many LED Dice circuits have been
published – but none are as simple as this one!
With just one PIC micro and a handful of other
components it’s cheap and easy to build, too!
By DOUG JACKSON
F
IRST OF ALL, let’s settle an
argument before it starts. Die
or Dice? Sure, the venerable
Oxford would have us say one die,
two dice. But every man and his dog
uses the word “dice” for both singular
and plural. So we’ll stick with Fido
and use dice.
But just in case you still want to
argue, we’re correct either way with
this circuit because it contains not one
but two dice. So it’s perfect for all of
those games which require the roll of
two dice at once.
By the way, if you only want a single
version, that’s easy too: just leave out
one set of LEDs and driver resistors.
The PIC micro will never know!
Ahh, the PIC micro. We were getting to that. Using a PIC allows us to
significantly simplify our dice circuit.
Previous designs have typically used
at least two ICs, four or more transistors and many resistors and capacitors.
And they’ve been fairly current
56 Silicon Chip
hungry, discharging batteries far too
quickly.
Using a single microcontroller not
only allows simplification, it also lets
us add features that previously haven’t
been available: the ability to recall the
last roll, for example.
This is the first in a short series of articles we hope to publish over
the next few months
which will use PICs
in a variety of simple
applications.
What makes
this series a little
different is that we
intend to guide you
through the hardware
and
software design step-by-step so that
you get a better idea of the design
process.
It’s an ideal way for a beginner in
micros to get a grasp on the fundamentals.
We are not planning to print de-
tailed software descriptions, though
– magazine space simply does not
allow this.
However, a web site has been set
up to provide detailed software discussions of all the projects presented
in the series.
Before we start our design, let’s look
at the basis for all of these projects, the
PIC microcontroller.
Pick a PIC
The PIC microcontroller family
covers a wide variety of devices
incorporating embedded peripherals, such as: integrated timers;
analog-to-digital converters; digital-to-analog converters; RAM and
Electrically Erasable ROM (EEROM).
Our project will use a Microchip PIC
16F84 microcontroller. This device
has 1K of on-board flash programmable ROM, 68 bytes of RAM, 13 I/O lines
and an internal counter/timer. Each
I/O line can source or sink approxi-
The PC board version of the LED Dice was housed in a zippy
box with the LEDs and switch emerging through the front
panel. The red LEDs form one dice while the orange LEDs
form the second (yes, we know we said we used green ones!).
The second version of the LED Dice is the same circuit but
is built on Veroboard and this forms the lid of a zippy box.
Some components are mounted on the other side of the
board. Note that some component values have been altered.
mately 50mA making it ideally suited
terms are not interchangeable – a creep’ interfering with the completion
to directly driving a LED display.
microcontroller actually contains a
of our project.
The 16F84 has enjoyed significant microprocessor but it also contains
The specifications for our project
popularity in the hobbyist market re- memory, I/O (input/output) lines and are simple – we will design an eleccently. A major reason for this is that often other features.
tronic simulation of two dice, using
it has a flash ROM, making it easily
14 LEDs. A single pushbutton switch
The project
re-programmable. The advantage of
will control the rolling of the dice in
the flash ROM is that it doesn’t rethe following manner:
Before we start designing our Dice,
quire an ultraviolet eraser to erase we need to decide exactly what it does
When the button is pushed for a
the device.
and how it does it. In doing this, we short period (say less that 0.5 sec), the
M i c r o c h i p ’ s w e b s i t e a t reduce the likelihood of ‘specification dice turn on and display the result of
the last roll.
(http://www.microchip.com)
If the button is pushed
provides full documentation
for greater than about
for the entire range of PIC
0.5 seconds, both dice
devices, as well as a full
are cleared then roll indevelopment environment
dependently, eventually
(MPLAB).
slowing and stopping afA simple PIC programmer
ter the button is released.
was published in the March
In all cases, the result
1999 issue of SILICON CHIP
is displayed for 20 sec(back issues are available for
onds and then the dice
$7.00 including postage and
turns itself off.
packing [$7.70 after June]).
It would be desirable to
This programmer is suitable
have no power switch, so
for programming the devices
we have to minimise curwe will use in this series.
rent consumption while
You may have noticed we
the project is ‘off’.
use the word “microconNow that we have detroller” where many people Fig.1: all six faces of a dice with the standard patterns
cided (and written down)
use “microprocessor”. The shown.
May 2000 57
Fig.2: driving LEDs from a PIC is easy!
All you need to do is limit the current
from the PIC to a level which the LEDs
can handle – and tell the PIC to light
them up!
what we will build, let’s start the fun
stuff.
The hardware
Lets look at a good old-fashioned
dice. As we all know, it has six sides,
with one, two, three, four, five or six
“spots” or dots on each. (Did you know
that adding the opposite sides of a dice
always equals 7?)
If we analyse the various dot patterns in Fig.1, we can see that the
following rules apply:
The central dot (7) operates inde-pendently.
Opposing corner dots (1) and (3)
appear simultaneously.
Opposing corner dots (2) and (4)
appear simultaneously.
Middle dots (5) and (6) appear
simultaneously.
Fig.3: providing an on/off switch
is also simple with the right
instructions in the program.
Therefore we can actually drive all
seven LEDs from only four I/O pins
on the microcontroller.
Remembering that our goal is to emulate the operation of a standard dice
using LEDs, let’s start by connecting
some LEDs to the microcontroller.
Driving LEDs with a PIC microcontroller is a simple exercise. Because
the PIC outputs can drive up to 50mA
and LEDs typically require only 1020mA, we can drive each LED directly
via a suitable series current limiting
resistor.
Fig. 2 shows typical connection
details. But what are the values of the
current limiting resistors?
Ohm’s Law tells us that one:
R = E/I
We know that “I” is 20mA max.
and that “E” in this case is the supply
Fig.4: if timing accuracy is not
important, a simple R/C circuit
attached to the PIC’s “OSC” input
is all you need.
voltage (5.4V) less the forward voltage
drop across each LED (typically 2.1V).
So for a single LED:
R = 3.3/.02 = 165Ω.
Where there are two LEDs in series
the forward voltage drop doubles so
the formula becomes:
R = 1.2/.02 = 60Ω.
To save drain on the battery (and
therefore give it more life), we’ll be a
bit conservative and go for slightly less
current through the LEDs, resulting in
resistor values of 220Ω for the single
LEDs and 100Ω for the double LEDs.
Now that we have designed the
output, we need to consider our input;
something to “roll” the dice.
This can be done simply by connecting a pushbutton switch between the
supply voltage (VCC) and one of the
PIC inputs that provides an interrupt
Fig.5: the PIC drives
the LEDs for about 20
seconds and then goes
to sleep to conserve
the batteries.
58 Silicon Chip
Parts List –
PC Board Version
1 PC board, code 08105001,
58 x 73mm
1 130 x 67 x 44 plastic case
(Jaycar HB-6013)
1 front panel label, 124.5 x 62mm
1 4 x AA square battery holder
1 PC-mount SPST pushbutton
switch (Jaycar SP-0722)
4 9mm untapped spacers
4 M3 x 15mm CSK steel or nylon
cheese-head screws
4 M3 nuts
Fig.6: this code tells the PIC to determine a random number and store it in a
certain location, then display the result.
capability (we’ll look at interrupts
later).
Fig.3 shows an example. Note that
the input is held low by a 4.7kΩ resistor to ensure that random noise picked
up on the input pin does not cause an
input to be recorded.
Clock and power supply
All that remains is to add a power
supply and provide some sort of clock
circuit to the microcontroller. A clock
circuit, by the way, has little to do with
telling the time. It provides pulses at
a specific rate which cause the microcontroller to undertake certain tasks.
First, though, the supply: the most
simple power supply we can have is
four AA batteries. This provides 6.0V
(4 x 1.5V).
If a series diode is placed between
the batteries and the PIC, the available
supply voltage drops to about 5.4V.
This is due to the nominal 0.6V voltage
drop across a forward-biased silicon
diode. 5.4V is within the PIC’s rated
input voltage range of 4-6V whereas
6V from the batteries would be right
on the upper limit.
The series diode also protects the
PIC from damage if the battery is
accidentally connected back to front.
Traditionally, microcontroller systems have used some sort of 3-terminal
voltage regulator to ensure that 5V is
available to the CPU.
We decided not to use a 78L05 or
similar 3-terminal voltage regulator,
as the 4mA standby current drawn by
the regulator would swamp the sleep
current of the PIC (about 7µA), giving
poor battery life.
So in theory, a set of four ‘AA’ alkaline batteries with a capacity of about
800mA.h should be able to last about
114,000 hours while in sleep mode.
(That’s about 13 years . . . we suspect
that the batteries will die of their own
accord LONG before this time!).
Of course, current consumption
will increase to about 120mA during
operation.
PIC microcontrollers can use a variety of clock circuits, ranging from crystal controlled oscillators if accurate
timing is required, through to simple
RC (resistor/capacitor) networks. In
our application, we are not concerned
about speed and clock accuracy, so we
use an RC oscillator.
This is shown in Fig.4. This works
simply by charging the 100pF capacitor through the 10kΩ resistor until the
microcontroller’s threshold voltage is
reached, at which time the capacitor
discharges quickly through the microcontroller. When the voltage falls
to the micro’s lower threshold it goes
high, allowing the capacitor to start
charging once again.
The final circuit
Tying all of this together, we come
up with the circuit for the hardware
of our LED Dice simulation. This is
shown in Fig.5.
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F84 programmed
microcontroller (IC1)
1 1N4004 diode (D1)
7 5mm red LEDs (LED1 - LED7)
7 5mm LEDs, another colour
(LED8 - LED14)
Capacitors
1 10µF 16VW PC electrolytic
1 .001µF ceramic disc
Resistors (0.25W, 5%)
2 10kΩ
1 4.7kΩ
6 100Ω
2 220Ω
Parts List –
Veroboard Version
1 piece of Veroboard or other
strip board, 107 x 57mm
1 112 x 60 x 27mm plastic case
4 AA batteries
1 PC-mount SPST pushbutton
switch (Jaycar SP-0722)
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F84 programmed
microcontroller (IC1)
1 1N4004 diode (D1)
7 5mm red LEDs (LED1 - LED7)
7 5mm LEDs, another colour
(LED8 - LED14)
Capacitors
1 10µF 16VW PC electrolytic
1 .001µF ceramic disc
Resistors (0.25W, 5%)
2 10kΩ
1 4.7kΩ
6 100Ω
2 220Ω
Miscellaneous
Hook-up wire, bubble-wrap plastic
or other suitable insulation.
May 2000 59
Fig.7: here’s how to mount the PC board to the front panel. Note the
distance from the board to the LEDs and also the fact that the
electrolytic capacitor will need to be bent over to allow clearance.
Now you can see the simplicity of
using a single chip microcontroller.
The total circuit contains just one IC
and a handful of discrete components!
Random numbers
One item that we will look at from
the software is the generation of a
random number.
Mathematically, generating a truly
random number is a very complex
exercise. In our simple PIC circuit,
we can generate a random-enough
number in a couple of ways:
A seemingly random number can
be obtained by timing how long the
button is held down, using a timer
that is incremented VERY quickly.
(It would be a very rare person who
could hold the button down for exactly 2243ms every time).
Alternatively, we could implement a mathematical pseudo-random
number generator. This requires the
use of multiplication and division. A
pseudo-random generator generates a
very long sequence of numbers that
eventually repeats, after many cycles.
In our project, we use the first
method. We sample the internal
timer (TMR0) which is constantly
increment
ing at one quarter of the
clock speed (about 256kHz) and store
the sample in a variable, as long as the
button is held down.
A short code routine to perform this
function is shown in Fig.6.
As previously mentioned, the microcontroller will be spending most
of its time in sleep mode (especially
while it is sitting majestically on the
mantelpiece!). In sleep mode, the
internal oscillator is stopped and the
device consumes about 7µA.
Interrupts
In order to wake up from sleep
mode, we need to have an ‘interrupt’
Fig.8: the front panel for the PC board
occur. Interrupts can be effected from
version mates with the PC board
a variety of sources but they always
underneath.
signal some external change.
The LED Dice project that we are
building has the pushbutton connected to bit 1 of Port B (RB0). This pin
also functions as an ‘interrupt’ input.
When the voltage level on
this pin changes, an interrupt
is generated, causing the PIC
to stop whatever it was doing
and to do something else. It
is this interrupt that causes
the PIC to wake up from its
sleep mode.
Interrupts in the PIC can
be ‘global’ in nature (Global Interrupt Enable [GIE]
bit set) or localised. In our
example, we would like to
continue executing instructions immediately following
the ‘sleep’ command, so we
need to ensure that the GIE
bit is clear. Global interrupts
cause program execution to
branch to location 4, which is
useful for a more traditional
Fig.9: this is the component overlay for the PC board version. Compare this with the
vectored interrupt approach
photograph alongside. Note that two of the LEDs (labelled LED3 and LED13) mount the
which we will cover in later
other way around to the rest. The second colour LEDs can be green, orange or yellow.
60 Silicon Chip
articles.
Code to implement the interrupt
functionality would look like that
shown in Fig.11.
Note that once the microcontroller
has received an interrupt, it wakes and
immediately disables any further interrupts. Multiple levels of interrupts
can cause unexpected program errors,
so we stop any further interrupts from
occurring.
Now that we have examined how
to implement input, output, random
number generation and interrupts, we
can tie all of this together and produce
the code that will actually run the dice.
There is a small amount of ‘glue
code’ around these functions to
produce actual running code. I recommend that you obtain the program
listings and study them for more
information.
When you study the listings, you
may find that there are faster, more elegant ways to do what has been done.
Remember that there are commercial realities as to the time spent on
producing a particular solution and
that some times, doing something the
‘no brain’, long way is actually faster to
develop. This is an embedded system
and in a simple system like this, the
emphasis is on producing a result, not
on producing the most elegant code
available.
(Have you actually looked at the
code in your microwave oven controller? Believe it or not, many of these
Fig.10: full-size PC board pattern
for those wishing to make their own
boards. Otherwise, use this pattern
to check commercial boards before
commencing construction.
This photo of the Veroboard version is reproduced slightly larger than actual
size, so you can see exactly where the components go. Note that some of the
components are on the other side of the board. The black object below the IC is
a header pin set with a shorting link, used as an on-off switch in the prototype.
However, this is considered unnecessary and has not been specified in the
parts list.
contain microcontrollers!)
As previously mentioned, in an article of this length it is not appropriate
to include bulk source code listings,
so the source code and corresponding
hex file to supply to the PIC programmer are available on my web site
(http://www.dougzone.com).
PIC programming
To make the LED Dice operate you
need to load the LED Dice program
into a PIC. You can either purchase
a pre-programmed PIC or you can
program one yourself. Programming
one yourself allows you to enter the
world of PIC software design.
In order to program the PIC, you
need some basic tools. First, you need
the Microchip assembler and simulator (MPLAB), available as a 9MB
download from the Microchip web site
(http://www.micro-chip.com). This is
a HUGE download but you only need
it once. Remember to make a backup.
In addition to the assembler, you
need a programmer. The PIC programmer that I use is based on a design
Fig.11: this code will implement the interrupt function.
May 2000 61
with a multimeter to minimise errors.
When bending component leads,
remember that using a pair of needle
nose pliers will minimise stress while
performing the bend.
Continue the assembly by soldering
in the 18-pin IC socket, ensuring that
the indentation on the socket agrees
with the position shown on Fig.9.
Next, solder in the 14 LEDs. Be careful
with their orientation, as they will
not operate if they are installed backwards. The short leg is the cathode.
Note that two of the LEDs are
mount
ed the opposite way around
to the rest!
Mount the pushbutton switch directly to the PC board, ensuring its
straight edge is aligned as shown.
Finally, connect the battery holder,
ensuring that the batteries are not
installed.
Veroboard version
Here’s what it looks like assembled and opened out. The batteries were simply
soldered together and placed in the bottom of the case, with a piece of bubblewrap plastic to stop them moving around or shorting to the copper tracks.
by Michael Covington, which was
described in the May 1999 issue of
SILICON CHIP.
Initially, I had a some trouble getting
the published programmer to operate
with my particular parallel port, so
I built the NOPPP-2 (Experimental)
version that used a 74HC08 in place of
the diode logic that was present in the
initial version. It worked flawlessly.
The programmer software (noppp)
is available from the SILICON CHIP
web site or from Michael’s web site
(http://www.covingtoninnovations.
com/noppp/).
Once you have the tools, you
need to create a .hex file to feed to
the programmer. Start by loading up
the MPLAB software and creating a
project by selecting ‘Project’, ‘New
Project’ from the menu and typing the
name of the project (LED Dice) into
the file name box, ensuring that the
default directory is in a reasonable
location for your system.
You need to add a source (.asm) file
by clicking on the ‘Add files’ button
in the ‘Edit Project’ menu.
Now that the project has a source
file associated with it, you can assemble it by pressing F10. The build
62 Silicon Chip
process will start and a .hex file will
be produced in the default directory
specified above.
Once the program has been assembled, exit the MPLAB environment
and start the programmer (noppp).
Specify the type of PIC (16F84) and
load the .hex file.
Insert the PIC into the programmer
and select Program. The PIC will be
programmed in about six seconds. Exit
the programmer and remove the PIC
from the socket.
Construction
Two versions are presented, one on a
PC board and the other on Veroboard.
In the first, all the components
mount directly on the PC board, which
measures 58 x 73mm.
It is always wise to carefully examine any PC board prior to assembly
to ensure that there are no shorts, or
breaks present. It saves a significant
amount of time to spot them now.
A component layout for the board
is shown in Fig.9. Start the assembly
by installing the passive components
first, such as the resistors and capacitors. You may find that it is beneficial
to measure the values of the resistors
The Veroboard version is designed
to mount on the top of a medium sized
plastic zippy box, replacing the lid.
This is to allow the simplicity of the
circuit to be displayed to any curious
onlookers. If desired, the project can
be mounted inside a slightly larger
case, with the LEDs and pushbutton
mounted on the lid in a more conventional manner.
Building on Veroboard also allowed
a fast development time to be achieved
on the hardware. If you use Veroboard,
be very careful to support the board
while cutting the hole for the pushbutton switch, otherwise, the board will
snap in half (been there, done that . .
.). File the edges if the board is slightly
too large (you will probably have to
file the corners round, too).
No component overlay is shown for
the Veroboard version but the photographs will give a very good idea of
component placement. Some of the
components are mounted on the copper (strip) side of the board.
Take care when cutting the Vero
board tracks that the cut is complete
and no copper swarf shorts to an
adjacent track.
The easiest way to cut Veroboard
tracks is to take a twist drill bit about
5mm or so and simply twist it in the
hole to be cut with your fingers. If
the drill is sharp it results in a clean,
quick hole.
You may like to install a small piece
of clear Perspex sheeting over the top
of the project to protect it from small
which incidentally, is where those 265
other dice went.
Have fun. And remember, unless
you create some code to allow you to
cheat, it is very hard to force the dice
to roll a particular way.
Remember also that the one disadvantage of this project over the real
dice is that it isn’t built to survive
20G’s of deceleration, so throwing it
would be bad.
Troubleshooting
There wasn’t room for a battery hold
er: a piece of bubble-wrap held the
batteries in place and stopped any
possibility of shorts.
prying fingers. This can be mounted
on 12mm brass standoffs on the top of
the Veroboard, with a suitable hole for
the pushbutton.
Testing
Examine the PC board or Veroboard
to ensure there were no shorts created
during assembly and then install the
batteries. Note that the PIC microcontroller is NOT installed yet. Verify that
+5.4V is present on pins 4 & 14 (with
respect to pin 5 [GND]).
Finally, disconnect the batteries,
install the pre-programmed PIC
(16F84) and re-install the batteries.
(Don’t insert the PIC with the power
applied!). You should be rewarded
with a self-test pattern.
Verify that the unit operates when
the button is pressed as described earlier in this article. When you release
the button, the display should ‘slow
down’ and then display the result
for approximately 20 seconds before
turning itself off. Quickly pushing and
releasing the pushbutton should recall
the last roll.
If the unit operates correctly, carefully mount the PC board in the top
of the zippy box.
All that remains now is to instruct
the kids on how to operate it and to
chain it to the table so that it doesn’t
end up at the bottom of the toy box,
If for some reason the project fails
to work, check all soldering carefully.
Verify that all the LEDs have been
installed correctly. You can check the
hardware by removing the PIC and
placing a 10Ω resistor between pin 14
(VCC) and each of the LED drive lines
(pins 1, 2, 10, 11, 12, 13, 17 and 18)
one at a time. The LEDs should light.
You can verify that the pushbutton
switch operates correctly by monitoring pin 6 with a logic probe, or
multimeter while pushing the button.
It should go to +5.4V when the button
is down.
Finally, if you have a CRO, you can
verify that the internal PIC oscillator
is running by examining pin 15 (CLK
OUT). This pin is not used by our
circuit but from it you should see a
1MHz square wave for three seconds
after the device is powered up and for
20 seconds after the button is pressed.
Remember that the device spends most
of its time in sleep mode, with the CPU
clock turned off to conserve power.
If all of the hardware checks out,
you should try re-programming the
PIC. Perhaps it has the wrong code
installed.
Good Luck. And remember that this
SC
is supposed to be fun!
Want to know more?
As mentioned in the text, source
code for the PIC microcontroller
and other information is available
for those interested in this project.
You can log in direct to:
www.dougzone.com
or you can access it via the SILICON CHIP website,
www.siliconchip.com.au
and follow the link from the selection bar on the left side of the
opening page.
May 2000 63
VINTAGE RADIO
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
Making the obsolete useful again
Radio receivers running off vibrator power
supplies were common in many rural areas
right up until the 1950s. Many of these sets were
later converted to mains operations as 240V
AC power became available but some sets were
more difficult to convert than others.
In many country areas of Australia
and New Zealand, 240V AC mains
power didn’t become available until
the 1950s. Before that, all sorts of
voltages were used in country towns,
while those living on farms may not
have had any source of power other
than batteries for their radios.
Where power did exist, voltages
such as 12, 32, 50, 110, and 250V
DC were common. Of course, some
places had their own 110V or 240V AC
supplies, although in general these
sources only covered a small area and
were rather limited in output, with
frequent interruptions to the supply.
Are you old enough to remember
having to pay the “electric light bill”?
Before the war, electricity was almost
exclusively used for lighting with
few or no power points in the home,
hence the bayonet adaptor that went
into the light bulb socket so that the
radio could be powered.
To cater for areas where there was
no mains supply, radio sets were
specifically designed to run off a
1.5V or 2V battery for the filaments
and 90-135V dry cell batteries for the
HT supply. Unfortunately, these were
expensive to operate relative to the
cost of running sets off the 240V AC
mains. As a result, to keep costs down,
many sets that used battery valves
were designed to operate from a 4V
or 6V wet cell battery via a vibrator
power supply. The valve filaments
were usually wired in a series-parallel configuration to minimise current
drain.
Suddenly, these sets became obsolete when mains reticulated power
came to an area and homes were
connected to it. As a result, many old
sets were either stored in the garage
or thrown onto the local garbage tip
– vintage radio collection and restoration was not even thought of in the
1940s, 50s and 60s. This was a shame
because these sets were generally
very good performers as they were
designed for rural areas where signals
weren’t all that strong.
I hate seeing things that
are still in good working
order go to waste and,
along with many others
during that era, converted
many of those otherwise
obsolete sets to 240V AC
mains operation. Of course,
you wouldn’t do that today
as there are few of these
Left: this is the view inside
the cabinet of the converted HMV 268 receiver. The
conversion involved replacing the valve line-up and
replacing the 6V vibrator
circuitry with a mains-operated power supply.
64 Silicon Chip
Vintage Radio
Repairs
Sales
Valves
Books
Spare Parts
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* Stock constantly changing.
* Top prices paid for good quality vintage wireless and audio
amps.
* Friendly, reliable expert service.
The HMV 268 came in a
stylish wood veneer cabinet and featured
both shortwave and medium-wave AM bands.
receivers still around in original condition. At that time however, it was
much better to convert the sets rather
than have them go to the rubbish tip.
It’s worth noting that “Radio & Hobbies” (later “Radio, TV & Hobbies”)
ran articles on converting many of the
common types of sets used in country
areas to 240V AC mains operation. It
was cheaper to convert than to buy
a new set and, what’s more, the conversion was usually very successful.
Often, a converted set worked better
than before and was cheaper to run
into the bargain.
Ease of conversion
Some sets were easily converted to
mains operation, these being the 32V
sets with vibrator power supplies and
using “mains-type” valves, eg, 6AQ5,
etc. All that was necessary with this
type of set was to remove the vibrator
power supply, replace it with a mains
supply and rewire the heaters and
dial lamps for 6V operation. And because they were designed for remote
country areas, these sets usually
outperformed the newer AC mains
sets which invariably lacked an RF
stage (as used in the vibrator-powered
designs).
Unfortunately, sets using “battery-type” valves were much more
difficult to convert. This applied
regardless as to whether the set used
batteries to supply all the necessary
voltages or whether it used a vibrator
power supply to derive the necessary
voltages from one battery.
It really was much more of a challenge with the battery sets. First, it
was necessary to change all the valves
and this involved finding out which
valves in the AC range had similar
characteristics to the battery valves
being replaced. Second, AC valves
usually work on higher supply voltages (usually 200-250V), whereas the
battery sets usually ran on 135V and
some on only 90V. This meant that
many of the paper capacitors had to
be replaced with higher voltage types.
Third, quite a bit of redesign was
necessary in order to obtain good
performance from the new valve lineups. However, many servicemen in
country areas rose to the challenge
and many fine conversions were made
to radios otherwise destined for the
local rubbish tip.
Converting 32V sets that used only
32V of high tension was a challenge
too. That’s because the valves, although AC types, run at very low voltage and have low gain. For starters,
it was necessary to replace the 25L6
valves with 6V6GTs or similar but
because of the large increase in gain
with the increased supply voltage,
considerable redesign was necessary
– even to the point of removing some
stages.
The RF and IF sections were usually
left running off 30-45V which meant
that no modifications were necessary
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May 2000 65
This end view shows the location of the “new” power transformer and audio
output valve. The new supply was much simpler than the vibrator supply it
replaced.
to their operating conditions. This
usually achieved a satisfactory result
– after all it was only the audio section
that needed beefing up.
Converting an HMV 268 6V
vibrator Receiver to 240V AC
My parents owned an HMV 268
dual-wave table model, a 6V vibrator
receiver using five 2V battery valves.
The circuit is shown on page 193 of
Volume 7 of the Australian Official
Radio Service Manual.
In its original format, the old HMV
268 was an excellent set. The short
wave band extended from 6-18MHz
but where I lived, the local emergency fire service used a frequency of
2.836MHz and we had no radio capable of listening to important fire calls.
As a young and relatively new devotee to radio, I decided that I would
modify the shortwave coils so that
it tuned from around 1.7-5MHz, so
that the fire calls and amateurs on the
1.8MHz and 3.5MHz bands could be
heard. The receiver was duly modified and I had a lot of fun listening
to these stations – when my parents
weren’t using the set of course.
Unfortunately, recharging the 6V
battery that powered the receiver
was something of a chore, requiring
a trip to the local garage. However,
my parents had a smart, young son
66 Silicon Chip
who reckoned he could save them the
trouble of this ritual.
I decided that I could charge the
unit directly from our 32V lighting
plant by putting two 12V globes in
series with the battery. The total
calculated voltage added up to 30V,
so the globes weren’t going to be
drastically overloaded. What’s more,
by only charging the battery at night,
the two globes would become part
of our home lighting system – waste
not want not.
I found out after I had installed
the system that it was very effective,
provided the 32V batteries were off
charge. However, it was a different
story when they were on charge, the
12V globes glowing brilliantly for a
short while until they blew!
The real test of my radio prowess
came at the end of the 1950s, when
we got 240V AC power after having
had 32V DC for about 15 years. The
set would either have to be converted
to 240V AC operation or thrown out,
as we no longer had a ready source to
charge the battery. Fortunately, there
was an article on converting receivers
to mains operation in the December
1953 issue of “Radio & Hobbies” and
this steered me in the right direction.
Using the article as a guide, I started
by checking out which AC valves had
similar characteristics to those that
were being replaced. I decided on a
12AH8 converter to replace the 1C7G
but a 6J8G or a 6K8G may have been
a better choice, as I wouldn’t have
needed to change the valve socket. In
addition, a couple of 6K7GT valves
were wired in place of the 1M5G and
1K7G valves in the IF amplifier, as
their mutual conductance is similar to
the valves they replaced and I didn’t
want any problems with instability.
A 6B6G was used in place of a 1K7G
for the second detector and first audio
stage, the gain of a pentode being considered unnecessary in this position
as the overall gain of the set would be
higher with AC valves anyway. The
audio output stage became a 6AM5
instead of a 1L5G. I would have liked
to have used an octal output valve but
I didn’t have one with a similar output impedance and the 6AM5 nearly
matched the 1L5G.
It was then necessary to look at the
voltage ratings of the capacitors. The
set ran on 135V but now it would run
on about 250V. Most of the capacitors
had a 200V rating and were replaced
with 400V units where necessary.
At this stage, the 6V vibrator power
supply was taken out of the set and
consigned to the junk box. A metal
sheet was then bolted across where
the vibrator supply had been and a
power transformer and a selenium
block rectifier fitted in its place. The
electrolytic filter capacitors were
wired into position under the chassis.
The retrofitted power supply can be
seen in the photographs. The new AC
supply was certainly much simpler
than the vibrator supply it replaced.
Wiring the heaters of the new valves
was straightforward, since it was no
longer necessary to use a series-parallel arrangement. However, it was
necessary to fit a resistor and capacitor
between each cathode and earth to
give the bias required and rewire the
valve sockets to suit the new valves.
In my enthusiasm to stabilise the
screen voltages, I also wired in a
VR105 105V gaseous regulator. This
was really an overkill and quite unnecessary (at that time, I wasn’t as
competent as I thought I was).
Anyway, it all worked reasonably
well and the old HMV once again took
pride of place in the lounge room.
Eventually, my sister took possession
of it and it continued to work satisfactorily until a brush with lightning
caused the shortwave aerial coil to
This “under-chassis” view of the converted HMV 268 shows the wiring layout.
The electrolytic capacitors for the new power supply are at left, adjacent to the
socket for the audio output valve.
go open circuit. After that, she didn’t
want it any more so I got custody of it
and decided to get it operating again.
Being more knowledgeable now
than I was then, I soon found a few
problems with my original conversion
which caused the set to be slightly
unstable. After some investigation, I
found that the automatic gain control
(AGC) line was radiating a signal at
the intermediate frequency (IF) and
this was being picked up by the IF
front end – hence the instability.
Don’t assume that the AGC line
is always “cold” with no signals on
it –some have quite a lot of IF signal
on them. The original valves in the
old HMV didn’t have as much gain
as their replacements, so this problem
didn’t occur with the original circuit.
Carefully re-routing the AGC lead
and adding some extra bypassing
solved the instability problem and the
set now goes extremely well. It is one
of the favourites in my collection and
has quite a lot of sentimental value.
Converting an AWA 532MF
32V receiver to 240V AC
A number of these radios were
going to be thrown out as the reticulated power mains snaked around
the country area in which I lived.
These sets used a 6BA6 RF amplifier,
a 6BE6 converter, a 6BA6 in the IF
stage, a 6AV6 detector and a 6AQ5
audio output stage. They also used a
synchronous vibrator power supply
which ran from a 32V DC supply.
This valve line-up is the same as
used in many high-performance AC
sets, so they were well worth converting. And the conversion was even
simpler than for the HMV 6V vibrator
set described above.
In brief, the vibrator power supply
was removed from the set and the dial
lamps and valves heaters all wired
in parallel to run off 6.3V. A power
transformer was also installed and
solid-state diodes used to rectify the
high-tension voltages. The electrolytic capacitors were reused since they
were quite adequate for the job.
These sets and similar 32V sets that
had AC valves and a vibrator supply
were very easy to convert and the sets
performed better than before. That’s
because there was no longer any residual vibrator hash.
Should we convert sets now?
My personal belief is no, we
shouldn’t convert any more vibrator
sets to mains operation. There are
several reasons for this: these radios
are now quite scarce, they are a part
of our radio heritage and they are interesting receivers in their own right.
Some collectors wrongly believe
that these battery or vibrator-powered
radios are useless because there is no
easy way of powering them. However,
suitable AC-operated power supplies
are available to operate these sets and
occasional advertisements can be seen
in electronics magazines. Articles
on making your own power supplies
have featured in the magazines too, so
there is no reason why these radios
cannot be made fully operational.
So why did I do conversions on
these sets if I now believe that they
shouldn’t be done? Well, it was a different era and the conversions were
done to save good high-performance
sets from the rubbish tip during the
period that the 240V reticulated
mains spread throughout the countryside. In the period from the mid-50s
into the early 60s, these conversions
were commonplace and made good
economic sense.
And even though those converted
receivers are no longer ‘standard’ they
are an example of what happened in
that era. It was a short but interesting period in the history of radio in
SC
Australia.
May 2000 67
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9
By STEVE CARROLL & BOB NICOL
Build this
low-cost AT
keyboard translator
This simple device converts the complex
scan-codes from an AT keyboard to
standard ASCII character and control
codes. It was originally designed for use
with the BASIC Stamp, Counterfeit and
PIC series of microcontrollers but has lots
of other uses as well.
The rapid progress of computer
technology has resulted in many old,
fully-functional IBM AT keyboards
being thrown away in favour of newer,
fancier ones. If you’ve ever wanted
to connect one of those discarded
keyboards to a project which accepts
standard ASCII codes, this AT Keyboard Translator could be just what
you’re looking for.
In operation, the device connects
directly to any 101/104-key AT key-
board with a 5-pin DIN connector and
converts the key scan-codes to standard ASCII “character” and “control”
codes. It then outputs these codes in
standard inverted asynchronous format at 300, 1200, 2400 or 9600 baud.
The baud rate chosen depends on
your “receiver” and is selected using
a single jumper designated HDR2 on
the PC board.
The output data is compatible with
the RS-232 serial port of many devic-
Information On PC Keyboard Standards
Want to find out more about PC keyboard standards? You’ll find lots of
information at these two websites:
(1) http://www.hth.com/filelibrary/txtfiles/keyboard.txt
(2) http://linton.csie.ntu.edu.tw/design-reference/pc/keyboard_FAQ.html
72 Silicon Chip
es, allowing you to send text or control
codes to your application. It’s just the
shot for interfacing with microcontrollers such as the BASIC Stamp,
Counterfeit and PIC series (in fact, the
device was originally designed to do
just that). There really is no easier way
to connect over 60 switches to one
pin of a Stamp1, Counterfeit Stamp1,
Stamp2 or PIC chip (the non-ASCII
keys are not used).
Of course, it’s not just limited for
use with microcontrollers. It can also
interface with other serial devices
such as a serial printer (via a suitable RS232 driver interface) or LCD
drivers. One of the photographs with
this article shows the AT Keyboard
Translator driving a 4-line alphanumeric LCD via an “LCD Serial Backpack” (designed by Scott Edwards
Electronics).
Other possible applications include
use in an ASCII User Terminal, an
RF/Infrared Keyboard Link, a Video
Text Generator and a Moving Message
Display. The accompanying panel
lists 12 possible applications but there
are lots more.
By the way, if your keyboard has a
PS/2 connector (six pins) rather than
the 5-pin DIN type, an adaptor can be
purchased from most electronics sup-
Fig.1: the circuit uses a PIC microcontroller to decode the complex scan-codes from an AT keyboard and convert
them to ASCII character and control codes.
pliers. Alternatively, an “off-board”
PS/2 socket on a short length of cable
can be used to replace the standard
5-pin DIN socket on the PC board.
Power for the keyboard (+5V) is
provided via the keyboard socket – it’s
just a matter of plugging the keyboard
in and applying power (12V DC) to the
adjacent DC power socket.
10kHz to 30kHz.
Fig.1 shows the circuit details of
the AT Keyboard Translator. It’s deceptively simple, with all the “magic”
taking place inside a pre-programmed
PIC series microcontroller (IC2), either a PIC16F84-10 or PIC16F84-20.
These devices have 1KB of “flash”
EEPROM program-memory, 68 bytes
of RAM and 64 bytes of EEPROM
data storage. In this application, we
require only a handful of external
components to make a complete
working circuit.
How it works
The AT keyboard has a fairly
complex two-way communications
protocol that is quite a handful to
decipher. There’s no logical mathematical pattern to the “scan-codes”
sent by the keyboard and certainly
no similarity to ASCII.
These AT scan-codes can involve
up to 13 bytes of data being sent for
a single keypress and release. Just to
make things difficult, even the simple
act of pressing “Caps Lock” does not
automatically light the “Caps Lock”
LED on the keyboard. Instead, the
keyboard sends a “Caps Lock” scancode to the host (normally a PC or,
in this case, the Keyboard Translator
itself), which then sends a “Light
Caps Lock LED” message back to the
keyboard. Finally, as if all that isn’t
complicated enough, an AT keyboard
can operate at anything from about
The PC board should only take about 10 minutes to assemble. It really doesn’t
get much simpler than this!
May 2000 73
Parts List
1 PC board, 51mm x 61mm,
1 10MHz ceramic resonator
(CR1)
1 18-pin DIL IC socket
1 2.1mm DC socket
1 5-pin DIN socket, PC-mount
1 2-way pin-header strip
2 4-way pin-header strips
1 5-way pin-header strip
1 pin header jumper
1 link wire
Semiconductors
1 LM7805 3-terminal regulator
(IC1)
1 PIC16F84-10/20
microcontroller with ATKB
program (IC2)
1 1N4001 silicon diode (D1)
2 1N4148 signal diodes (D2, D3)
Capacitors
1 100µF 25VW PC electrolytic
(C1)
2 0.1µF ceramic (C2-C3)
Resistors (0.25W, 5%)
3 10kΩ (R5-R7)
2 2.2kΩ (R1-R2)
2 1kΩ (R8, R9)
2 220Ω (R3-R4)
Basically, the PIC microcontroller
converts the complex IBM AT scancodes to standard ASCII codes. Much
of the actual decoding function is
achieved by the use of “lookup” tables. Each time a key is pressed, the
keyboard sends the scan-code to pins
17 & 18 of IC2 via resistors R3 & R4.
Pin 17 accepts the clock signal, while
pin 18 accepts the data signal.
The microcontroller separates the
eight data bits and uses this value as
a memory address offset to look up
the appropriate ASCII value. Assum-
ing that the code is a valid ASCII
“character” or “control” code,
the serial data appears on pin 13
and is fed to pin 4 of a 5-way pin
header (HDR3) via resistor R8
(1kΩ). The CTS (clear to send)
line (pin 8) is optional and in
most cases only one pin on the
receiver is needed to ensure clean
communications.
Note that communications between the keyboard and translator
are almost exclusively one way.
The only translator-to-keyboard
commands involve turning the
“Caps Lock” LED on or off as
required.
Optional CTS function
Sometimes typing speeds can
be too fast for the receiving device (Stamp, PIC, etc), so an optional
CTS function has been programmed
into the PIC microcontroller. In this
circuit, the CTS output at pin 8 is
normally tied to 0V by resistor R7.
However, if necessary, it can be pulled
high (+5V) by the receiver, taken low
to receive the next byte, then immediately returned to the high state until
the receiving device is ready again.
A similar method of data flow control is used between the keyboard and
the translator, utilising the keyboard’s
inbuilt buffer to temporarily store key
presses until the microcontroller is
ready for them. Unfortunately, this
buffer has a limited storage capacity
so prolonged bursts of high-speed
typing may cause some characters to
be missed if the receiving device is
too slow.
The baud rate (ie, the rate at which
data is transmitted from pin 13 of IC2)
is set by placing a jumper across one of
four pairs of header pins (HDR2). This
can be set to either 300, 1200, 2400 or
9600 baud (bits per second) and must
be set to match the receiving device.
Specifications
Supply voltage ����������������������7.5-15VDC
Supply current ����������������������<1mA (idle). Note that a typical AT keyboard
current of up to 300mA must be added to this.
Keyboards supported �����������Most IBM-compatible 101/104/105-key AT keyboards with 5-pin DIN connector. A keyboard
with a PS/2 connector can be used via a suitable
adapter.
Output data format ����������������Standard asynchronous (inverted) at 300, 1200,
2400 or 9600 baud (8N1).
74 Silicon Chip
Fig.2: take care to ensure that all semi
conductors and the electrolytic capacitor
go in with the correct polarity. Depend
ing on the keyboard, it may be necessary
to fit a small heatsink to regulator IC1.
For example, a “Stamp1” is limited
to a maximum of 2400 baud, as is the
LCD Serial Backpack, but many other
devices will readily accept speeds up
to the Keyboard Translator’s maximum 9600 baud rate.
The logic levels on pins 6 & 7 of IC2
determine the baud rate. As shown in
Fig.1, one side of the 4-way dual pin
header is commoned and connected
to the +5V rail. When the jumper is
in the 300 baud position, pins 6 &
7 are both pulled low via R5 & R6.
In the 1200 baud position, pin 6 is
pulled high (+5V) and pin 7 is low,
while for 2400 baud pin 6 is low and
pin 7 is high.
Finally, when the jumper is in the
9600 baud position, pins 6 & 7 are
both pulled high via diodes D2 & D3.
Clock signals for IC2 are derived
from an internal oscillator between
pins 15 & 16. Its frequency is set to
10MHz by ceramic resonator CR1.
Power supply
An AT keyboard requires 5V DC
and typically draws a current of
100-300mA. This is provided by a
7805 regulator which also provides
a regulated +5V rail for the rest of
the circuit and to the 5-way “output”
socket. The 78xx series of regulators
can handle in excess of 1A and have
internal current-limiting and thermal-protection circuitry, making them
almost bullet-proof.
Note that earlier keyboards may
have higher power requirements than
later models. For this reason, if you
use an early keyboard, the regulator
may get quite hot. If this happens,
the answer is to fit a small heatsink.
This view shows the AT Keyboard Translator driving a 4-line alphanumeric
LCD (via the Scott Edwards LCD Serial Backpack). Note that the LCD Serial
Backpack writes lines 1 & 3 first, then lines 2 & 4.
The unit itself runs from 7.5-12V
DC and this can come from a DC
plugpack supply. The power can be
applied via an on-board 2.1mm DC
socket or to a nearby 2-pin header
(HDR1). The centre pin on the DC
input socket is positive, while the
body contact has negative polarity.
Building it
The PC board is very easy to assemble and should cause no problems if
the overlay illustration is carefully
followed – see Fig.2. As with most
boards, it’s a good idea to begin with
the smallest parts and work up to the
larger ones.
Start by installing the wire link
(this goes between the keyboard and
DC power sockets), then install the
resistors, diodes and capacitors. Take
care also to ensure that the electrolytic
capacitor and the diodes are mounted
with the correct polarity. Note particularly that D1 is a 1N4004 power
diode, while D2 & D3 are 1N4148
small signal diodes.
The pin headers can now be installed, followed by the IC socket, the
DC power socket and the keyboard
socket. Make sure that the sockets are
all seated correctly on the PC board
before soldering their pins.
The PIC16F84-10/20 is a static-sensitive device, so normal ESD (electrostatic discharge) precautions should
be employed. This device should not
be installed in its socket until all other
assembly has been completed. Take
care to ensure that it is installed the
right way around. The 7805 3-terminal regulator (IC1) must be installed
with its metal tab towards the centre
of the board (see photo).
Setup & testing
Once the assembly has been com-
pleted, carefully examine the rear of
the PC board for solder bridges between pins, missed solder joints and
vacant holes. You should also check
that all the parts are in their correct
positions and that all polarised parts
are correctly oriented.
If all appears OK, place the jumper
across the appropriate pins to select
the required baud rate and connect the
+5V, DAT (Data), 0V and CTS pins to
the receiver as required. Also ensure
that the receiver is configured for
8,N,1 (ie, 8 data bits, no parity bit, 1
stop bit), inverted polarity. If using the
AT Keyboard Translator with a BASIC
Stamp1, the correct serial modes are
N300, N1200 or N2400. The Stamp (or
Where To Buy The Parts
The Keyboard Translator is available pre-assembled or in kit form from two
companies, as follows:
(1) Control Electronics, 231D Timmsvale Rd, Timmsvale, NSW 2450. Phone
(02) 6654 5458; email ctrl<at>mpx.com.au
(2) Microzed Computers, PO Box 634, Armidale, NSW 2350. Phone (02)
6772 2777; fax (02) 6772 8987; email sales<at>microzed.com.au
Fully assembled and tested PC board (no case)..............................$49.00
Short-form kit (PC board plus all on-board components)..................$39.00
Programmed PIC microcontroller and 10MHz ceramic resonator.....$18.00
The BASIC Stamp, 4-line alphanumeric display and the Scott Edwards LCD
Serial Backpack are available from Microzed Computers. Further information
is available by phone or from www.microzed.com.au
May 2000 75
Suggested Applications For The Keyboard Translator
(1) STAMP “SERIN” COMPATIBLE:
the Keyboard Translator’s output is
directly compatible with the Stamp,
Counterfeit and PICBASIC “SERIN”
function. You can use it at 300, 1200
or 2400 baud for Stamp1 or Counterfeit and also 9600 baud for faster
devices (PIC, Stamp2, etc), making
keyboard input a simple matter for
a wide variety of applications. A
short program listing that enables
the Stamp1 or Counterfeit to receive
data from the Keyboard Translator is
shown in the accompanying panel.
(2) >60 SWITCHES, ONE STAMP
PIN: an AT keyboard and Keyboard
Translator combination is equivalent
to more than 60 switches on one pin
of a Stamp, Counterfeit or PIC, etc
(two pins if CTS used).
red link or RF data transmitter and
receiver, the Keyboard Translator
could be used to remotely send
data to a PC running a QBASIC or
terminal program.
LCD display could allow a Stamp,
Counterfeit, etc to accept ASCII
data from a keyboard. You could
then edit it and print it to a serial
printer.
(5) TV TEXT OVERLAY: a video
text overlay generator could be
designed to display text on a television screen using the Keyboard
Translator and a suitable IC such
as the STV 5730A.
(9) RS-232 ASCII: with the addition
of an RS-232 driver, standard ASCII
character and control codes could
be transmitted via cable to many
devices and applications (eg, a
serial printer).
(6) MOVING-MESSAGE DISPLAY:
the Keyboard Translator could be
used, along with a Stamp or some
other microcontroller and a suitable
display, to design a moving-message
display without tying up a PC.
(10) HOME AUTOMATION: the
Keyboard Translator could be used
with an LCD display and a Stamp to
control a simple home automation
system.
(3) ASCII USER TERMINAL: ap
plication notes for a Stamp-based
“User Terminal” extend only to a 3
x 4 or 4 x 4 numeric keypad. The
Keyboard Translator, along with an
LCD, can be used to build a far more
versatile terminal, with all ASCII character and control codes available.
(7) MOTOR CONTROL: an LCD
display, a Stamp (or similar) and
the Keyboard Translator could be
used to program a wide variety of
motor-control systems, especially if
an extra memory chip (a serial EEPROM or similar) was used to store
additional data for longer sequences,
etc. Again, this could be done without
a dedicated PC.
(4) RF/INFRARED KEYBOARD
LINK: in conjunction with an infra-
(8) DO-IT-YOURSELF TYPEWRITER: the Keyboard Translator and an
(11) EASY MORSE CODE: a
Stamp and the Keyboard Translator
could be used to send the Morse
code tones for each keypress,
without the user needing to learn
Morse code.
(12) TEXT WRITER/PLOTTER:
using a microcontroller, a serial
EEPROM or other memory IC and
the Keyboard Translator, a writer/
plotter system could be devised
to write text onto objects such as
signs, etc.
Fig.3: if you want to use the Keyboard
Translator to send data to a terminal program, you will need to wire
the connector as shown here. This
tricks the port into thinking that it is
connected to a serial device with full
handshaking.
The LCD Serial Backback is mounted on the back of the alphanumeric display
via a 14-way pin header. It accepts serial data in ASCII format and decodes it
to drive the display.
76 Silicon Chip
similar) can also be powered from the
+5V and 0V pins on the 5-pin output
header.
In our example, we are using the
AT Keyboard Translator to drive the
Stamp/Counterfeit Program Listing
ASCII Control Codes
Following is a short BASIC Stamp1 (or Counterfeit) program to receive
serial data from the AT Keyboard Translator and display it on a PC monitor.
After typing in the listing exactly as it appears below and connecting the
keyboard to the Keyboard Translator, connect the 0V pin on the Stamp to
the 0V pin on the Keyboard Translator, then connect Pin 0 on the Stamp to
the Data pin on the Keyboard Translator.
Next connect Pin 1 on the Stamp to the CTS pin on the Keyboard Translator and ensure that the baud-rate jumper is set to the required bit-rate.
Finally, connect the Stamp’s download cable and press <Alt><R> as usual
to download the program and execute the DEBUG instruction. At this stage,
pressing any ASCII keys on the keyboard should result in the corresponding
characters appearing on the PC monitor.
NUL
Ctrl <at> Null
SO H
Ctrl A Start of heading
S TX
Ctrl B Start of text
ETX
Ctrl C End of text
EO T
Ctrl D End of transmission
EN Q
Ctrl E Enquiry
LF
Ctrl J Line feed
‘KB_READ.BAS
‘BS1 PROGRAM TO RECEIVE SERIAL ASCII DATA FROM THE “AT KEYBOARD
‘TRANSLATOR” AND DISPLAY IT ON THE PC MONITOR VIA “DEBUG”.
‘BAUD-RATES OF 300, 1200 AND 2400 ARE SELECTABLE. (PLACE ‘ AT BEGINNING
‘OF UNUSED LINES)
‘DATA FORMAT IS INVERTED, 8,N,1, (N300, N1200, N2400).
VT
Ctrl K Verti cal tab
‘NB: FALSE CHARACTERS WILL BE DISPLAYED BY THE STAMP1 “DEBUG”
‘FIRMWARE IF CONTROL-CODES ARE SENT.
SYMBOL COMS=0
SYMBOL CTS=1
PAUSE 1000
LOOP:
LOW CTS
‘SERIN COMS,N300,B2
‘SERIN COMS,N1200,B2
SERIN COMS,N2400,B2
HIGH CTS
DEBUG #<at>B2
GOTO LOOP
‘SERIAL COMS ON PIN0
‘CTS ON PIN1
‘WAIT FOR KEYBOARD AND TRANSLATOR
‘TO INITIALISE
‘ENABLE KEYBOARD TRANSLATOR TX
‘N300
‘N1200
‘N2400
‘DISABLE KEYBOARD TRANSLATOR TX
‘DISPLAY ASCII CHARACTER ON PC MONITOR
‘GET NEXT CHARACTER
LCD Serial Backback and this requires
connections from the +5V, 0V and data
(DAT) pins. These points respectively
go to +5V, GND and SER (serial) on the
LCD Serial Backpack. Note that this
device does not write to lines 1-4 of
the LCD in numerical order. Instead it
writes to line 1 first, then line 3, then
line 2 and finally line 4 (ie, the order
is 1, 3, 2, 4).
The keys
As mentioned earlier, the keys that
have no ASCII equivalent are unused.
All ASCII character-codes, both shifted and unshifted, are generated in the
usual way by pressing the appropriate
key/s. The “Caps Lock” function operates as usual and lights the “Caps
Lock” LED when it is enabled. The
alternative characters on the numeric
keypad are all non-ASCII, so these
have been disabled and the keypad
operates in numeric mode only.
Similarly, all the arrow keys are
disabled with the exception of the
“Backspace” key, which sends 08 hex,
the ASCII code for “BS”.
Pressing either “Enter” key will
generate an ASCII “Carriage-Return”
(CR). The “control” codes are accessed
by holding down the “Ctrl” key or
“Ctrl” + “Shift” and the relevant key.
The <Esc>, <Backspace>, <Del>, <Enter> and <Tab> keys also generate the
corresponding ASCII control codes.
You can refer to the accompanying
“ASCII Control Codes” table for a full
ACK
Ctrl F
B EL
Ctrl G Bell
Acknowledge
BS
Ctrl H Backspace
HT
Ctrl I
Horizontal tab
FF
Ctrl L Form feed
CR
Ctrl M Carri age return
SO
Ctrl N Sh wt out
SI
Ctrl O Sh wt in
D LE
Ctrl P Data li nk escape
D C1
Ctrl Q Devi ce control 1
D C2
Ctrl R Devi ce control 2
D C3
Ctrl S Devi ce control 3
D C4
Ctrl T Devi ce control 4
N AK
Ctrl U Negati ve acknowledge
SYN
Ctrl V Synchronous idl e
ETB
Ctrl W End of transmission block
CAN
Ctrl X Cancel
EM
Ctrl Y End of medium
SU B
Ctrl Z Substi tute
ES C
Ctrl [
Escape
FS
Ctrl \
Fil e separator
GS
Ctrl ]
Group separator
RS
Ctrl ^ Record separator
US
Ctrl _ Uni t separator
listing of the control codes as defined
in ANSI X3.4.
Keyboard compatibility
Finally, although the device works
with the vast majority of keyboards,
you will inevitably come across the
odd keyboard that won’t work with the
translator. Typically, if you press the
caps lock key on these keyboards, the
keyboard LED indicator comes on and
the device appears to lock up.
The current answer is to use a
different keyboard, although further
refinements to the ATKB PIC program
to include a simple error handling
routine (and still fit the program in
the available space) may eliminate this
problem further down the track. SC
May 2000 77
50 Amp Mode
Controller – W
Are you into large or powerful radio-controlled electricpowered models? The ones where battery life is measured
in minutes, not hours? Here’s a controller which can handle
motor currents of up to 50A and is compatible with your
existing radio control equipment.
Article by ROSS TESTER – Design by BRANCO JUSTIC*
T
he obvious question is who
could possibly want a control
ler capable of such huge currents? After all, your typical radio
controlled model, say a race car or
buggy, has only a 7.2V battery and a
75W motor – ergo, 10A.
For this project, we’re not talking
your typical off-the-shelf radio controlled car or buggy. We’re talking
industrial-strength models powered
by, say, 12V motorcycle or even car
batteries. Large boats, electric-pow-
ered planes and big cars and trucks,
for example.
At the opposite end of the scale are
competition boats, cars and planes
which may not be very big but have
very powerful motors demanding a
lot of electrical power.
They might draw 10 or 20A or more
on load and therefore need significantly more in the controller department.
But 10 or 20A is a far cry short of 50A.
Why the brute strength? Couldn’t
we make it a bit simpler and save a
few bob? Yes . . . and no!
The problem lies not so much in the
typical load current of the motor, nor
even the start-up current (which can
be high). It lies in the stall current. A
motor loafing along at 10A might draw
ten times as much if locked up – for
example, when the car it is pushing
hits an obstacle and before the wheels
start slipping.
Another scenario is when a boat
runs through some underwater
greenery and gets its prop snagged.
Housed in a tiny plastic case the motor speed controller is small enough to fit into the vast majority of models. The 3-wire
rainbow cable on the left connects to the radio control receiver servo output while the wires on the right connect to a battery and the motor. You will probably need thicker cables. Note the six MOSFET tabs emerging through the case lid.
78 Silicon Chip
el Motor Speed
With Brake
Sometimes it will cut or power its
way through; other times it will be
locked up.
(We make no comment about what
happens when an electric plane’s prop
is locked up...)
That’s when you need a controller
capable of significantly larger peak
currents than you would otherwise
think were necessary. Sure, you could
take the risk and hope that you can
cut power before any damage occurs
– but that damage might occur in a
few milliseconds and for the sake of
a few extra MOSFETs valued at less
than $10.00 total, why would you?
Of course, if your application says
that the motor can never be locked up,
you can get away with fewer MOSFETs. Five MOSFETs handle 50A so
it follows we’re rating each at about
10A. But we’ll look at this in more
detail shortly.
This controller is significantly
cheaper than commercial units available and is also nice and small. Overall
the assembled PC board is only about
Three DC motors which
would be ideal for this
controller: the top one is
one we had in the “junk
box”and is rated at 12V
and draws about 5A off
load, rising quickly to 1520A under load. The two
smaller motors are both
from Oatley Electronics,
the middle one rated at
4-8V DC while the bottom one is 12V DC. These
motors sell for $8 each.
For more info visit www.
oatleyelectronics.com/
motors.html
25 x 35 x 60mm; even in its specified
case it’s only 80 x 40 x 27mm, including mounting feet. So it should fit in
the vast majority of models.
Radio control compatibility
This controller is compatible with
typical radio control equipment
which has servo outputs; ie, 99.99%
of commercial radio controls.
The radio control servo output (only
one output – there are three wires
but two of them are for power) gives
a pulse train between 1ms and 2ms
long, depending on the position of
the radio control “stick”, on a frame
Fig.1: the circuit uses a ZN409 servo driver IC not to drive a
servo but to drive MOSFETs which control the motor speed.
May 2000 79
Fig.2: the current
standard for radio controls uses
these wave-forms
to achieve forward, stop and
reverse in the
servos. The 20ms
repetition rate is
usually not at all
critical but the
pulse width is.
rate (or time between pulses) of about
20ms or so. At centre, or rest (in a
±stick), the pulses are 1.5ms long.
This pulse stream results (or should
result) in the servo adopting the centre
or zero position.
By the way, the frame rate isn’t
usually at all critical but the pulse
width is. We’ve seen frame rates of up
to 50ms and they work fine. However,
20ms is the current “standard” for
radio control systems so we’ll use that.
Push the stick in the positive direction and the pulses lengthen – up to
2ms at maximum travel which should
have the model’s servo in full forward
position.
Push the stick in the negative direction and the pulses shorten – 1ms
pulses at full travel will have the servo
in the full reverse position.
Fig.2 shows the waveforms of these
various pulse trains.
In practice, a small amount of
Fig.3: the component overlay, reproduced same size. Note the
lengths of tinned copper wire soldered to the tracks under the
MOSFETs to increase current capacity. Compare this diagram to the larger-thanlife photograph of the completed PC board below. Here you can also see the
external connection wires are soldered to the back of the board, not the front.
“trim” is usually required to achieve
the correct positions – the trim tabs
on the transmitter adjust the pulse
width slightly to make sure the servo
behaves as you intend (not as it sometimes wants to!).
Note that no provision for reverse
direction is made in this simple controller. It has only zero to maximum
(or 1.5ms to 2ms) capability. However,
moving the stick to the normal reverse
direction actuates the controller’s
braking circuit.
No radio control?
You’re one step ahead of us (or per80 Silicon Chip
haps we’re one step ahead of you!). Because the controller’s input demands
are relatively simple, a square-wave
oscillator capable of producing a pulse
between 1ms and 2ms every 20ms will
give full-range (zero to maximum)
control of the controller plus braking.
Such an oscillator is quite simple to
make with either discrete components
or, say, a couple of 555 timer ICs.
However, simple oscillators usually
drift a little with temperature so this
needs to be taken into account.
A suitable oscillator which simulates a radio control receiver output
is shown later in this article. This
oscillator can not only be used as a
“wired” controller but can also be
used to set your controller up.
The controller
We’ve already discussed the reasons for the number of MOSFETs
in the output but we haven’t yet explained what they do – or how they
get the information they need.
That information is all taken care
of by IC1, a ZN409 servo driver IC.
There are no servos in this circuit, of
course, but this IC is ideal because
it decodes the radio control receiver
“servo” pulse signal described above.
The ZN409 has its own reference
oscillator, producing 1.5ms pulses
every 20ms. The precise length of
these pulses can be varied slightly by
VR1. Incoming pulses from the receiver are fed to pin 14 and are compared
to this reference.
If the pulses are longer than the
reference the pin 9 output is taken
high and the pin 5 output is taken
low. Pulses shorter than the reference
have pin 9 low and pin 5 high. Pulses
equal to the reference have both pin
9 and pin 5 high. Remember that all
this is happening every 20ms or so.
Pin 5 is connected to three Schmitt
NAND gates wired as inverters in series, so a low on pin 5 will result in a
high on the gates of parallel connected
MOSFETs Q1-Q5 (and vice versa).
Pin 9 controls the “brake” MOSFET,
Q6, via another Schmitt NAND gate/
inverter and transistor Q7.
A low on pin 9 will result in Q7
being turned fully on, turning on Q6
which is wired directly across the motor. This effectively shorts the motor
terminals which in turn acts as a brake
on the motor armature.
If you don’t believe how effective
this is, try spinning the shaft of a
small, permanent-magnet DC motor
with your fingers, then short the terminals together and try spinning it
again. Notice the difference?
The length of time that pin 9 or 5
is held low is in direct proportion to
the difference between the incoming
(receiver) and reference pulses. A
pulse width equal to, or very close
to, the reference will result in an
extremely short “low” time on pin 5,
so the MOSFETs will effectively be
turned off.
Increasing this incoming pulse
width results in a longer and longer
“low” time until the point is reached
where at 2ms pulse width, pin 5 is
low for almost all of the 20ms cycle,
thus turning the MOSFETs fully on
for virtually all of the cycle.
Pin 9 operates in a similar manner
except that it controls the brake MOSFET. When the pulse length is between
1.0 and 1.5ms pin 9 goes low, and the
output of inverter IC2a (pin 3) goes
high. This turns on Q7 which connects
the Q6 gate to ground, turning it on.
As the pulse length approaches
1.5ms, Q6 on time becomes shorter
and shorter until at 1.5ms (centre
stick) the brake MOSFET is fully off.
MOSFET ratings
We’ve mentioned that the output
of the speed controller is handled by
five N-channel power MOSFETs, all
The completed project with the disassembled case in the background. The case “lid” is actually the larger piece – note the
cut-out in the case lid for the MOSFETs. If space is a real problem the PC board could be simply insulated in heatshrink
plastic and shoe-horned into a suitable area within the model.
May 2000 81
Parts List
1 PC board, 60 x 33mm, with
chamfered corners to fit case
Semiconductors
1 ZN409 servo driver (IC1)
1 4093 quad NAND gate (IC2)
5 IRFZ44 N-channel Power
MOSFETs (Q1-Q5)
1 MTP2955 P-channel Power
MOSFET (Q6)
1 C8050 NPN transistor (Q7)
Capacitors
2 10µF 25VW electrolytic
2 1µF 25VW electrolytic
4 0.1µF MKT polyester
1 .022µF MKT polyester
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 68kΩ 1 47kΩ
1 33kΩ
1 4.7kΩ 3 1kΩ
Miscellaneous
Suitable case (if required)
Heavy duty hook-up wire (see
text)
Fuseholder and fuse to suit
Short lengths heavy tinned
copper wire
connected in parallel.
Like all semiconductors, MOSFETs
have a variety of ratings but there are
only a few which really concern us in
this application.
Of course, we must ensure that
the voltage rating is sufficient for not
only the battery voltage but also any
back-emf generated by the motor. And
this can be substantial. The IRFZ44
MOS-FETs specified have a VDS (ie,
drain-source voltage rating) of 55V.
Likewise, the current rating of the
MOSFET must be considered. In fact,
there are two ratings – a continuous
current rating (ID cont) which is 41A
and the pulsed current rating (IDM)
which is significantly higher (160A).
We are using the MOSFETS in a
pulsed mode but the limiting factor in
this speed control circuit is the heat
dissipation in the MOSFETs.
Most important of all, though, is
the MOSFET’s “on” resistance. When
turned on as hard as possible (ie, any
increase in drive to the gate results in
no further drain/source current) the
MOSFETs still offer some resistance
to current flow.
It is tiny – MOSFETs are significantly better than bipolar transistors
in this regard but even then, the
Speed controller rating. . . should it be 200A?
We have rated this speed controller at
50A and this is a continuous rating, to
suit the very high current motors used in
today’s electric flight models, as well as
those used in high performance model
cars and boats.
As noted in the text, we base this
rating on the drain-source resistance
of the specified IRFZ44 Mosfets. This
gives rise to two limitations in the speed
control circuit: voltage drop and power
dissipation.
For a 50A load, the circuit would
have a likely voltage drop of 240mV
and that means not much loss in speed
compared to running the motor directly
off the battery.
Secondly, the power dissipation for
a 50A load would be around 2.4W for
each Mosfet or a total of 12W. That is
quite a significant amount of power to be
dissipated in such a small package and
it is going need good ventilation which
is often difficult to provide inside the
fuselage or body of the model.
But if you purchased an equivalent
82 Silicon Chip
speed control from your local model
shop it would be rated at 200A or higher.
This is based on the peak current ratings
of the Mosfets.
Could a speed control such as this
withstand 200A?
The answer is yes but only for a second or two, as the likely total dissipation
of around 50W in such a small package
would not only blow the Mosfets but
would melt the solder off the back of
the PC board.
We should also note that some motors
that are likely to draw around 50A continuous could also draw as much as 200A
or more, at initial start and if the motor is
accidentally stalled. Under those conditions, a speed control like this one could
survive the very high current, provided
the overload condition did not last any
more than a second or two.
So when you see those 200A speed
controllers in model shops, remember
that, at best, it is only an instantaneous
rating. The continuous or “real” rating
is likely to be 50A or less.
small amount of resistance has to be
considered.
In fact, there are two important considerations: one is heat dissipation,
the other voltage loss.
The IRFZ44 has an on resistance
(RDS (on)) of just 0.024Ω. But as you
know, passing a current through any
resistor causes that resistor to heat
up. So it is with the “resistance” in
the MOSFET.
Our maximum current is about
10A per device, which equates to a
dissipation of some 2.4W. (P = I2 x R).
Even though well within the device
ratings that’s a significant amount of
heat for any component to get rid of
and we have five of these devices all
wired cheek-by-jowl.
The second problem any significant resistance causes is voltage loss.
Passing a current through a resistor
causes a voltage to develop across
that resistor – voltage which is then
not available to the load.
If for a moment we assumed a single MOSFET could handle the total
50A load, we would be losing almost
1.2V across it (E = I x R). That’s an
intolerable loss from a 12V supply and
will make the motor run significantly
slower.
But as you also know, when you
connect resistors in parallel the resistance drops. We’re connecting five of
these MOSFET “resistors” in parallel
so the equivalent resistance is just
.0048 ohms.
Using Ohm’s law again, 50A x .0048
is just 0.24V loss – a much better proposition. Remember that’s the worst
case; at say 20A the loss is only going
to be about 50mV.
The MTP3055 P-channel power
MOSFET used as the brake doesn’t
have to handle very high currents.
That’s fortunate, because P-channel
devices generally have a higher RDS
than N-channel devices (in this case
0.3Ω). Its 60V, 12A rating should be
more than adequate for this application.
Construction
All components are mounted on a
small PC board, nominally 60 x 33mm.
Before commencing construction,
make the usual checks for defects in
etching.
Also, if you are not building this
from the Oatley Electronics kit, you
will need to file the corners off the
board – to about 5mm in each direc-
tion – so that it will fit in the specified
case.
The Oatley kit, by the way, includes
the case, the wiring loom pictured
including fuseholder and fuse and, of
course, the PC board and components.
After checking that the board fits
the case, commence assembly with the
smallest components first. Note that
most of the resistors mount on end.
Our prototype used sockets for both
ICs but this is left up to you.
Use two of the resistor lead cut-offs
to form the two links required on the
board – both under where the MOSFETs mount.
The final components to be mounted should be the MOSFETs. Note particularly their orientation – all go the
same way but they must be the right
way around – and also the location of
Q6, the P-channel MOSFET. It mounts
closest to the BAT + and MOTOR terminals.
To keep the MOSFETs straight and
in position we lined them up with a
3.2mm drill bit through all their holes
and then soldered them in position.
Because of the significant current
drawn by the MOSFETs some short
lengths of heavy tinned copper wire
should be soldered along the appropriate PC board tracks (ie, under the
MOSFETs) to increase the current
carrying capability significantly. Just
remember that Q6 is not in parallel
with the rest of the MOSFETs!
Speaking of current capability,
the wiring used in the prototype for
battery connection was certainly not
rated at 50A! Our application called
for only a fraction of this capacity so
we used standard 10A hookup wire
and a 4A in-line fuse.
If you are powering anything larger,
not only will greater capacity cabling
be needed but you will also have to
think seriously about connections to
the PC board – soldered connections
may be inadequate. Some form of busbar may be required.
Some model shops sell silicone-coated hookup wire which is
specifically intended for high-current
applications such as this. It could be
worth a look.
Fitting to the case
The final step is to mount the complete assembly in its case. The case is
in two sections with the larger section
of the case actually the “lid”. The PC
board mounts upside-down in the
Where do you get it?
This project, including the circuit
and PC board pattern, is copyright
© 2000 to Oatley Electronics.
They can supply a complete kit
of parts, including the case, for
$35.00
They will also shortly have available a simulator (see next page)
suitable for use with this circuit.
Contact Oatley Electronics on
(02) 9584 3561, fax (02) 9584
3563, by email at sales<at>oatleyelectronics.com, via mail at PO
Box 89, Oatley NSW 2233, or via
their website www.oatleyelectronics.com
* Branco Justic is the Manager of
Oatley Electronics.
“lid” so that when you turn it over
it’s the right way up.
Double dutch? Not really, but the
photos might give a better idea of
what we’re saying. No screws are
necessary to hold the PC board in
place – it’s held captive by its leads
and the MOSFETs.
A hole needs to be cut through the
top of the lid for the MOSFETs – ours
was 27 x 10mm, centred 5mm from
one edge – and also a small hole
drilled to allow VR1 to be adjusted
from outside the case with a fine
screwdriver. A 3mm hole would be
about right, lined up with VR1 underneath.
With the external leads soldered
to the underside of the PC board
(ie, direct to the tracks) they emerge
from the assembled case through the
cable- ways provided. Significantly
larger leads will of course need larger
holes cut.
One feature of the specified case
worth noting is that no extra screws
are required to hold it together. The
two portions snap together and then
the same screws which mount the
case prevent it from coming apart.
The centres for the mounting screws
are 73mm apart.
Testing
You will need a radio control transmitter and a matching receiver with
servo outputs, a suitable DC motor
and a DC supply or battery equal to
the task.
If you don’t have a radio control you
may wish to build the radio control
servo pulse simulator described at the
end of this article.
We will assume you are using a radio control receiver but if not, simply
connect the wires to the simulator the
same way around.
Connect the three servo wires to the
radio control receiver output. The red
and black wires go to + and - on the
output while the brown wire goes to
the data output – usually the middle
pin and on “real” servos, usually
coloured yellow.
Set the radio control transmitter
stick to either minimum if it is a single
direction controller or to centre (off)
in a dual-direction controller, with
trimtabs set to the centre as well, and
turn both transmitter and receiver on.
Apply power to the controller.
You’ll almost certainly find the
motor starts to turn (be careful of the
starting kick on a large motor if it is
not secured in some way!) but when
you adjust VR1 you should be able to
stop the motor completely.
If so, move the stick on the radio
control transmitter and you should
find the motor turns with its speed
proportional to the stick position.
Full stick should give you full motor
speed, or very close to it.
What if it doesn’t work?
Obviously, there is an error somewhere. Perhaps as a starting point,
eliminate the radio control transmitter and receiver by connecting a real
servo to the receiver and make sure
it works properly. That ensures you
have the right sort of waveform coming from the receiver.
If it works, check your wiring and
component placement again – more
than 95% of faults in kits are due to
one or two wrongly placed or reversed
components or poor soldering.
Check that you have +5V coming
to the ZN409 supply rail from the
radio control unit. If you have an
oscilloscope, view the waveforms
at pins 14, 5 and 9 of IC1. If you get
what looks like a correct waveform,
look further along.
Otherwise the error is somewhere
around that IC. There should be a
positive-going waveform at approx.
50Hz from pin 11 of IC2, its width
varying with either the input signal
or the position of VR2.
Also check the inversion of signal
between pins 1/2 and 3, 5/6 and 4,
8/9 and 10 and finally 12/13 and 11.
May 2000 83
Manual motor control via a simulator
Earlier we referred to the waveform from a radio control receiver
– a square wave of 50Hz with a duty
cycle dependent on the setting of
the radio control transmitter stick.
At rest the pulse should be 1.5ms
wide and full forward it should be
2ms wide.
It follows then that if a waveform
of this type was fed into the input
the system would operate as if it was
attached to a radio control receiver.
All we need do is simulate that
waveform. Fortunately, that is quite
simple to do. Two suitable circuits
are shown below.
The first consists of two 555 timers (actually a 556 which is two 555s
in one package) – one connected
as an astable oscillator running at
50Hz (ie, producing continuous
20ms-wide pulses). This triggers the
second 555 wired as a monostable
which has its pulse width variable
from less than 1ms to more than
84 Silicon Chip
2ms by adjusting VR1. The output
from pin 3 of IC2 then is a series of
pulses, 20ms apart, which vary in
length from less than one to greater
than two milliseconds. Now where
have we heard that before?
A similar circuit was first described in SILICON CHIP in May
1994. It produced 30ms pulses –
which should work fine – but we’ve
adjusted the values to give approximately 20ms, just to be consistent.
The second circuit, from the same
issue, is even simpler and contains
just one 4001 quad NOR gate and a
few other components. Its drawback
was that due to its simplicity the
frame rate changed with the pulse
width but apparently that didn’t
cause any problems.
For a full description of these
circuits, refer to the May 1994 issue.
Copies of that issue are still available from SILICON CHIP Publications
for $7 each including postage &
packing ($7.70 after July 1).
We believe either could be used
but we must say that we haven’t
tried either with this circuit. PC
board patterns are shown for both
but as they are so simple these could
just as easily be built on a small
piece of Veroboard to save the cost
of a PC board.
You can use these simulators to
either set up your controller in the
absence of a radio control system or
you can use it to “hard wire” control
an electric motor (low voltage DC
only!). That’s up to you.
Note that you will have to arrange
a 5V supply for both the simulator
and the ZN409 circuitry in the speed
controller. This could most easily be
done with a 7805 regulator taking its
input from the 12V supply. (When
used with a radio control receiver
the speed controller takes its 5V
supply from the servo output of the
SC
receiver).
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Intended for both the hobbyist and the professional.
290 pages in paperback.
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web techniques. It details each step required to
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software elements, create an effective site and
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Satellite & Cable TV by Graf & Sheets
By Simon Collin. Published 1997.
59
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Edition 1998
TCP/IP EXPLAINED
95
90
Assumes no prior knowledge of TCP/IP, only a
basic understanding of LAN access protocols,
explaining all the elements and alternatives. Combines study questions with reference material.
Examples of network designs and implementations are given. 518 pages, in paperback.
By Tim Williams. First published 1991
(reprinted 1997).
$
59
Includes grounding, printed circuit design and
layout, the characteristics of practical active and
passive components, cables, linear ICs, logic
circuits and their interfaces, power supplies, electromagnetic compatibility, safety and thermal
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95
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For non-specialist users – explores most of
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Your Name_________________________________________________
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UNDERSTANDING TELEPHONE ELECTRONICS
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By Richard Monk. Published 1998.
59
95
By Steve Heath. Published 1997.
Widely regarded as the standard text on EMC,
this book provides all the information necessary
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It includes chapters on standards, measurement techniques and design principles, including layout and grounding, digital and analog
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By Tim Williams. First
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By Eugene Trundle. First published 1988.
Second edition 1996.
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This practical handbook from one of the
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Provides all the information and software that
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POST TO: SILICON CHIP Publications, PO Box 139, Collaroy NSW, Australia 2097.
OR CALL (02) 9979 5644 & quote your credit card details; or FAX TO (02) 9979 6503
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Write to: Ask Silicon Chip, PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097.
Charging
4.8V batteries
I want to build the Multi-Purpose
Fast Charger featured in the February
& March 1998 issues of SILICON CHIP.
My problem is that I want to be able
to charge 4.8V NiCd battery packs (for
R/C model aircraft) of 600-1200mA.h.
Have there been any updates to the
circuit to allow this? If not, what
modifications would need to be done?
(B. V., Tindal, NT).
• The value of divider resistance for a
4.8V battery pack will be 33.3kΩ and
will need to be used instead of the
dividers used for a different voltage
selection. For example, you could remove the 150kΩ and 12kΩ paralleled
resistors for the 12V NiCd position and
place the 33.3kΩ value in their places.
This will change the 12V NiCd setting
to 4.8V. A 47kΩ and 120kΩ resistor in
parallel will be close enough to the
correct value.
13.8V regulated
power supply
I have the November 1997 issue
which describes the Regulated Supply for Darkroom Lamps. It has very
good regulation but I am interested
in making a 13.8V version. Can you
suggest what modifications will be
Rear projection TV
picture rotation
I recently purchased a Toshiba
43-inch rear projection TV. I have
only had it for a week and have
noticed that the picture is rotated
clockwise by a small angle. The hifi
shop tell me that a manufacturing
tolerance of 10% is allowed on
picture quality. They could not tell
me what the 10% applied to – rotation or linear dimension. They just
said it was a general tolerance that
applied to all aspects of the picture.
The rotation equates to about 12mm
90 Silicon Chip
required? (I. S., via email).
The circuit should provide 13.8V
with no modifications being necessary. Just set trimpot VR1 for 13.8V
instead of 12V. By the way, you do
realise that the output is not smooth
DC but pulsed. It is OK for driving
motors or lamps but not suitable for
other loads.
•
Connecting a mini stereo amplifier
I would like to connect the 100W
amplifier module described in the
March 2000 issue to my Akai TX250
mini stereo system. It’s maximum
output is 10W. (J. C., via email).
• Does your mini stereo have a tape
output? If so, the best way to drive
the 100W amplifier is to connect
the tape signal via a volume control
potentiometer of, say, 25kΩ. Alternatively, if your system only has speaker
outputs, the way to do it is to disconnect the speakers and feed each
of the outputs to 1kΩ resistors and
then to the 100W amplifier inputs.
In this way, you can use the volume
control on the mini stereo to control
the volume from the 100W amplifier.
Mind you, by feeding the signal
from your mini stereo to the 100W
module you will not be getting the
best performance from it.
in vertical distance, sloping down
from left to right. I have looked at
the store’s demo unit and it has a
similar rotation.
The rotation is most visible when
viewing a “letterboxed” or widescreen movie, as the black bars top
and bottom highlight the effect. The
problem is not with the DVD or DVD
player, as the rotation is visible with
Teletext too.
I may be being too fussy but
now that I’ve noticed it, I see it all
the time; it’s a bit like looking at a
framed picture on the wall that isn’t
straight. Considering the cost of the
Power supply
blows Mosfets
I have built the 40V 8A power supply described in April & May 1998
but I have a problem. I am blowing
the BUK436s when the unit is short
circuited, although the current limit
is OK. Any ideas on the possible
fault? Why is there no drain to source
protection to stop the reflected transients under heavy reactive loads?
(G. L., via email).
• The BUK436 Mosfets do have
drain to source protection by way of
zeners ZD1 and ZD2. These conduct
if the drain voltage exceeds the zener
voltage plus the gate voltage. The
Mosfet is then switched to conduct
any transients.
The Mosfets could be upgraded
to higher rated devices if required.
Devices such as the IRFP250 rated at
33A and IRFP260 rated at 46A would
be more rugged. These are available
from Farnell Electronic Components
Pty Ltd. Phone 1300 361 005.
Driving piezo transducers at high levels
The publication in March of the
high-power class-AB amplifier could
not have come at a better time. My
son is building a sono-luminescence
unit (just under $5000), I expect better. I was very surprised that there
was no mechanical adjustment, or
for that matter, an electronic adjustment via the menu system (red
and blue tube convergence can be
adjusted however).
Is there anywhere I can find out
the real manufacturing tolerance
on picture rotation? Should I push
for a replacement? (P. F. Mount
Eliza, Vic).
• As far as we’re concerned, the
picture should be exactly horizontal. You should ask for it to be
adjusted or replaced.
Address
http://www.oatleyelectronics.com
Ph ( 02 ) 9584 3563 or 9584 3564
PO Box 89 Oatley NSW 2223
Fax 9584 3561
e-mail orders: sales<at>oatleyelectronics.com
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K103...32mm 10 LED IR ILLUMINATOR applications (A13)...$
KIT...$10
K 1 0 4 . . . 3 2 m m M I C R O P H O N E P R E - NEW BARGAIN LASER LEVEL
Don’t pay more than $100.
AMPLIFIER KIT...$6
This device is fully aligned on all planes.
K105...32mm AUDIO AMPLIFIER KIT...$8
K109...PC CONT. STEPPER MOTOR DRIVER It could be used as is or for greater
accuracy could be attached
KIT...$40
to a longer
K110...AUDIO LASER SCANNER KIT...44
K112C... DOG SILENCER COMPLETE conventional
level or a straight
KIT...$43
K 1 1 4 . . . PA N / T I LT D U A L S E R V O edge....$22
AUSTRALIAN MADE BARGAIN
CONTROLLER KIT...$19
NEW.... EVAPORATIVE WATER
COOLERS
Features inc. economic running.
VERY COMPETITIVE PRICES
safe 6VDC operation (Plugpack
K115...THREE MOTOR AUTOMATIC LASER
supplied), internal stainless steel
LIGHTSHOW KIT...$55
reservoir, Can be used with
K117...OPTICAL TACHOMETER KIT...$25
commercially delivered water
K118... 4 CHANNEL VIDEO SWITCHER
bottles or with a large soft-drink
KIT...$50
bottle...$50
K119...3 LED LOGIC PROBE KIT...$7
(Bottle not supplied)
K120...PLASMA BALL / JACOBS LADDER
DISPLAY KIT...$29
OPTO PACK: contains a
K 1 2 3 . . . U L T R A S O N I C M O V E M E N T total of 103 opto semiDETECTOR KIT...$16
conductors, various
K124...20 -30 SECOND VOICE RECORDER colours, visible & IR $10
KIT...$19
K125...IR TESTER KIT...$7
RADIO CONTROL MODEL SERVOS
K127...12 - 240V AC INVERTER KIT...$35 With good speed and good torque specs & a
K127T...12V - 240V AC INVERTER KIT + selection of output arms & disks + mounting
TORROIDAL TRANSFORMER...$89
screws. If you ask us we will send a free e circuit
K128...SIMPLE PIC PROGRAMMER KIT...$32 diagram to drive servos. $18
K129... PROFESSIONAL PIC PROGRAMMER
KIT...$27
HOUSED VIDEO CAMERAS
K130...HIGH POWER IR RX / TX KIT...$28
CCD B/W IN SWIVEL CASE $99
K 1 3 1 . . . S H O P M I N D E R 2 K I T. . . $ 1 7
PCB VIDEO CAMERAS
K133...MINI SSC KIT...$55
K134...80 LED IR ILLUMINATOR KIT...$36 B/W CCD CAMERAS $89
pinhole (60deg.), 92 deg,120 deg.
K136...CLOCK / CALENDAR KIT...$14
add $10 for 150 deg.
K137...LASER LEVEL KIT...$14
K138...140 LED IR ILLUMINATOR KIT (35 LED ASK FOR A FREE VHF
VERSION)...$25
MODULATOR AND
K138C...140 LED IR ILLUMINATOR KIT (140 PLUG PACK WITH
EACH CAMERA
LED VERSION)...$67
K140...PELTIER CONTROLLER KIT...$17 Check out our “new look” web site for more
K141...BATTERY MANAGEMENT SYSTEM products. amazing cheap super bargains in
KIT...$32
our bargain corner & many items that we
K142...CNC STEPPER MOTOR DRIVER KIT can not fit on this page
(MOSFET VERSION)...$45
K143...MOSFET POWER SUPPLY KIT...$24
ACN 068 740 081
PCB
DESIGN AND PRODUCTION SERVICE
CALL OR E-MAIL ”BRANKO”
K048...VCR CONTROLLER KIT...$25
K050...AM RADIO KIT...$12
K052...HIGH VOLTAGE SUPPLY FOR NIGHT
VISION TUBES...$29
K054...INDUCTIVE PICKUP KIT...$12
K055...VALVE PREAMP KIT...$66
K058...TRAIN CONTROLLER KIT...$28
K060... SLAVE FLASH TRIGGER KIT...$9
K061...SOUND ACTIVATED FLASH TRIGGER
KIT...$18
K062...BOG DEPTH SOUNDER KIT...$15
K063...VHF MODULATOR KIT...$11
K064...UNIVERSAL ELECTRET MIC
AMPLIFIER KIT...$12
K065RT...8 CHANNEL IR REMOTE CONTROL KIT (WITH RELAY OUTPUTS)...$50
K066C... SECURE IR SWITCH KIT...$24
K066R...IR REPEATER KIT...$20
K066S...STANDARD IR SWITCH KIT...$20
K069... DRY CELL CHARGER KIT...$29
K069C...CASE FOR DRY CELL CHARGER
KIT, KNOB, LED, & PAPER FRONT PANEL
...$10
K072... BATTERY CHARGER KIT WITH
MECHANICAL TIMER KIT...$8
K073...AM LASER COMMUNICATIONS KIT
...$29
K076...MIRACLE 'ACTIVE' AM LOOP ANTENNA KIT...$29
K078C...MUSIC BOX KIT - CHRISTMAS
SONGS...$11
K078V... MUSIC BOX KIT - VARIOUS
POPULAR SONGS...$11
K079...LED FLASHER KIT...$2
K080B...BREATH TESTER KIT Mk2...$29
FOR MORE DETAILS ON THESE AND MORE KITS SEE OUR WEB SITE
major cards with ph. & fax orders,
Post & Pack typically $6
CATALOGUE.... Ask for
one with your next order.
Prices subject to change M
without
notice
ay 2000 91
ACN 068 740 081 ABN18068 740 081
EA_MAR_00
Questions on the PIC
digital voltmeter
I’ve just built the Digital Voltmeter February 2000) and it works
very well, calibrating to within
0.02V of my Fluke DMM. I’ll now
build one for the auxiliary battery
as well.
I do have a couple of queries
though, the first of which concerns
regulator REG1. My car’s charging
system was upgraded two years ago
to include an 85A alternator and the
biggest battery I can fit. This combination solved the problems I was
having with the charging system on
a 15-year old vehicle.
However, after starting and until
the battery is fully recharged, I’ve
noticed the voltage will occasionally peak at up to 15.2V and usually
holds at about 14.6V during daylight driving and is never below
13.8V even with everything on,
including driving and auxiliary
lamps. This is great for my peace
of mind but I notice that REG1
becomes very hot, to the point
where it’s uncomfortable to hold
your finger on the outer case and
impossible to touch REG1 itself.
I’ve made a small heatsink that
fits under the lower circuit board
and I think this helps but I wonder
if it would be wise to limit the input
voltage?
generator and was looking for a high
power amplifier to drive piezo-ceram
ic ultrasonic transducers at 25kHz.
High power ultrasound, when
injected into water and some other
fluids, will create tiny bubbles which
emit blue-white light at a temperature
hotter than the surface of the Sun. The
effect is not well understood but some
researchers believe that it may be connected with the Casimir Effect (Zero
Point Energy). Nevertheless, with
some perseverance and a little tinkering, single and multi-bubble sonoluminescence equipment can easily
be built by amateurs.
However, there is a problem. The
amplifier is designed to roll off the
high frequencies. Your article noted
that, “At the high frequency end,
the .0012µF capacitor and the 1kΩ
resistor feeding the base of Q1 form
92 Silicon Chip
Can you advise how much current the unit draws during full operation? When I connect my DMM
to measure it the voltmeter doesn’t
work. I want to be able to connect
the voltmeter directly to the battery
so I can monitor voltages at any
time (without switching on the car’s
systems) with just a simple on-off
switch directly from the battery.
Finally, could this unit be adapt
ed to run a 3.5-digit LCD? (M. H.,
via email).
• The Digital Voltmeter does operate with the regulator hot but it
is well within its temperature ratings. If you wish, you could make
up a small heatsink to be wrapped
around the brass standoff connecting to the regulator tab.
You can reduce the input voltage
applied to the regulator using the
resistor locations provided on the
display board for the 24V version.
Two 100Ω 1W resistors in parallel
in place of the five 820Ω resistors
would do for the 12V version.
Connect the 12V supply to the 24V
input on the board so the current
flows through these dropping resistors. The only problem with doing
this is that the low battery voltage
may not be measured correctly if
the resistance provides too much
of a voltage drop.
The circuit would have to be
redesigned to suit an LCD panel.
a low- pass filter which rolls off
frequencies above 130kHz (-3dB)”.
However, if one refers to Fig.1 on
page 17, it appears that the -3dB
point is around 65kHz. Is the frequency rolloff controlled elsewhere
in the circuit, or can the value of the
.0012µF capacitor be reduced to give
an improved response at 25kHz?
The equipment will not be operated in the house, so EMI and extraneous high frequency signals are not
important.
Since piezo-ceramic devices are
voltage driven, in order to increase
the voltage output, we were wondering if there may be an easy way
to invert the input signal to one of
the amplifier modules so that the
output voltage can be doubled? (A.
L., Whitby, NZ).
• There are a number of problems
associated with driving piezo transducers. First, they are a pure capacitance so their impedance drops as
the frequency rises. At frequencies
of 25kHz and above, the impedance
could easily be less than 8Ω and this
would be unsuitable for the new
amplifier.
Most of the high frequency rolloff
in the amplifier is due to the output
RLC filter which ensures unconditional stability with capacitive loads.
Without it, the amplifier would be
unstable with pure capacitive loads,
as most amplifiers are without some
output decoupling network.
If you want to drive piezo transducers, you would be better off using a
variant of the circuit used for the Dog
Silencer (July 1999) or the Woofer
Stopper (February 1996).
By the way, we tried some experiments with sono-luminescence
several years ago and had no success.
DC-DC converter
for car sound
In October & November 1996 you
published a 600W DC-DC converter
for car stereo systems. Would it be
possible to use this for the power
supply for the 100W amplifier published in the March 2000 edition so
that it could be used in a car? (D. J.,
via email).
• The 600W DC-DC converter is really
far too big for your needs. You would
be better off looking at the 100W design we published in the December
1990 issue. However, there is another
consideration and that is that our new
100W amplifier module is not recommended for driving 4Ω speakers which
is what most car sound systems use.
You might be better off looking at
a commercial car amplifier such as
some of those available from Jaycar
Electronics.
Cockroft-Walton voltage multipliers
If possible, could you advise me
what projects you have done, and in
which issues they were published,
that used a Cockroft-Walton voltage
multiplier (probably also called a
voltage tripler)? My tech teacher
apparently has not come across these
devices before. (L. H., via email).
• We have published only one
project featuring a Cockroft-Walton
multiplier and that was a wide range
electrostatic loudspeaker (February,
March & April 1995), with the circuit being in April 1995. However,
a better version of the circuit was
published in “Ask Silicon Chip” page
93, March 1994 issue.
Overheating problem
in turbo car
I have a turbo-charged Mazda MX6
and the under-bonnet temperatures
get extremely high when idling at
traffic lights. This is due to the fact
that the thermo fans are controlled
by the water temperature which is
quite slow to rise. The heat from the
turbo combined with more than five
minutes of no air flow allows the
air temperature to rise significantly
before the fans click in.
What I would like to achieve is
a system whereby the thermo fans
come on automatically when the car
is stationary and the standard water
thermo switch can otherwise operate
normally. I would also like to incorporate a cool-down timer (similar
to a turbo timer but with the engine
off and fans on). I have considered
several methods to do this but due to
my lack off knowledge of electronics
and my concerns about affecting the
car electronics, I have not been able
to come up with a solution.
The system I would envisage is as
follows: an idle switch activates a delay timer of about 10 seconds which
sends power to an adjustable ambient
thermo switch capable of reading temperatures above 60°C. When the air
temperature rises above the set level,
the factory water thermo switch is
overridden by opening its circuit and
this would turn on the fans.
The fans would continue to run
until the idle switch is opened. I hope
Off-Hook Indicator
LED is invisible
I recently constructed the OffHook Indicator for Telephones as
described in the January 2000 issue
and it is much appreciated in my
house. Internet interference from
the kitchen phone is significantly
reduced and I know when the
phone is available.
My complaint is that the flashing
LED indicator is virtually invisible
at about 20-30° off the direct axis
which turns out to be the angle
where it is normally viewed. What
do you suggest?
I’d also like to add the Speed
Alarm (November 1999) to my Subaru L-series 4WD. The rear drive
to have the fans come on quite soon
after stopping at the lights and turn
off immediately when the throttle
is pressed. The delay timer would
allow for normal driving conditions
and for slowing down to a stop.
I would also like to incorporate a
timer that allows the fans to continue
to run for about 30-40 seconds after
the ignition is turned off. (S. B., via
email).
• Your first requirement to ensure
the fans will run at idle is an rpm
switch. This will measure the engine
rpm and only switch at idle. This will
drive a relay to then drive the fans via
a thermal switch. Thermal switches
are available from Jaycar and Altron
ics. These switches close a contact at
the preset temperature. 60°C types are
available.
The rpm switch could be a variation of the tachometer (as described
in the April 2000 issue). Use the
shaft is not used on the highway
so I must connect to the front drive
shafts. Does this present any fitting
problems? (M. T., Ringwood, Vic).
• The LED indicator for the Off
Hook Indicator for telephones is
a high brightness type and they
always have a narrow axis.
The easiest way out of the
problem is to angle the LED to the
position you normally view it from.
Alternatively, use a conventional
LED which has a wider viewing
angle.
You can fit the speed sensor to
the front wheel drive shaft without
problems. It is best to locate the
magnets on the unsprung section
of the shaft so that the gap to the
sensor will remain fixed.
limiter output to drive the base of a
BC337 transistor via a 2.2kΩ resistor.
Connect the emitter to ground and
the collector to the coil of a 12V relay.
The other end of the relay coil connects to the +12V supply. Connect a
1N4004 diode across the relay coil
with the cathode (striped end) to the
positive supply.
The relay will be switched when
the revolutions per minute go below
a set value. This value can be set
at just above idle, say 1000 RPM.
Thus the idle can be detected which
then switches the relay. The thermal
switch (a normally open type) can
connect in series with the normally
closed contact on the relay. This can
then drive the fans.
The requirement for the fans to
run after ignition switch off can be
achieved with the Turbo Timer as
described in the November 1998
SC
issue of SILICON CHIP.
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be
carried out according to the instructions in the articles. When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do
not accidentally come into contact with mains AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects
employing mains voltages or other high voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd
disclaims any liability for damages should anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of
SILICON CHIP magazine. Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any
liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims
any liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the Trade
Practices Act 1974 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are applicable.
May 2000 93
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sheet of paper, fill out the form & send it with your cheque or credit card details
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Taxation Invoice ABN 49 003 205 490
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ELECTRONIC/MECHANICAL DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION: we offer
a complete design service for electronic
and mechanical devices. Most work is
done in house and you deal directly with
the designers. No job is too small and
can be to prototype or “turn key” stage,
in one offs or for future production.
Simply send us an email at vladimir<at>
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or requirements and we will get back
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CAMERAS Quality Colour Dome $159.
Colour Camera in case with Bracket/
Audio $165. Night Vision Camera $115.
8 Input Switcher $179. Wholesale Prices
in SECURITY & ELECTRONIC Supplies
0410 73 9317.
FUNCTION GENERATORS, BWD
170A 2MHz, sin, sq, Evi, pulse, Vco, w/
manual. No exotic parts, 3 off at $70 ea
inc. freight. email jcd<at>c031.aone.net.au
or (03) 9836 6494.
WEATHER STATIONS: Windspeed &
direction, inside temperature, outside
temperature & windchill. Records highs
& lows with time and date as they occur.
$420.00 complete plus sales tax if appli
cable. Optional rainfall and PC interface.
Used by Government Departments,
farmers, pilots, and weather enthusiasts.
_____________ _____________ _____________ _____________ _____________
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If so, sketch it out, write a brief
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send it to us.
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94 Silicon Chip
Other models with barometric pressure,
humidity, dew point, solar radiation, UV,
leaf wetness, etc. Just phone, fax or
write for our FREE catalogue and price
list. Solar Flair/Ecowatch ph: (03) 5968
4863 fax: (03) 5968 5810, PO Box 18,
Emerald, Vic., 3782. ACN 006 399 480.
RAIN BRAIN AND DIGI-TEMP KITS: 8
station sprinkler controllers, 60 channel
temp monitor uses DS1820s over 500
metres. Has PC Data logging. Mantis
Micro Products,
http://www.home.aone.net.au/mantismp
COVERT Camera in PIR or Smoke Detector case from $94 * HI-RES better
than SUPER-VHS Quality QUADS 4 Pix
1 screen from $208 * DOME CAMERAS
from $88 - SONY CCD $107 - COLOUR $164 * Video BALUNS from $7
* DIY PAKS 4 Cameras, Switcher &
Supply from $461 with 12" Monitor
from $575 * 4 COLOUR CAMERAS,
SWITCHER & POWER SUPPLY from
$769 - with COLOUR QUAD 4 Pix 1
Screen from $1168 * COLOUR QUADS
from $474 * COLOUR DUPLEX MUX
from $1329 * 14" MONITORS from
$203 - with Inbuilt 4 Ch SWITCHER
from $236 * SEE-in-the-DARK CAMERAS & INFRARED 120 mW LED
ILLUMINATOR Kits from $19 * FREE
PC VIDEO RECORDER - TIME LAPSE
- MOTION DETECTION Software with
4 Ch Capture Card from $113 * Video
Transmitter KitSets & Systems from
$142 * Camera, Microphone & Timer/
Controller in PIR DETECTOR from $129
* BULLET 480 Line 0.05 lux SONY
CCD or DSP COLOUR from $132 *
PCB Modules from $76 COLOUR
Pinhole from $155 * MINI CAMERAS
36 x 36 from $85 - SONY CCD $102 COLOUR $162 www.allthings.com.au
* 08 9349 9413.
C COMPILERS: everything you need
to develop C and ASM software for
68HC08, 6809, 68HC11, 68HC12, 68
HC16, 8051/52, 8080/85, 8086, 8096
or AVR: $155.00 each. Macro Cross
Assemblers and Disassemblers for
above CPUs + 6800/01/03/05, 6502
and 68HC12 for $78. Debug monitors:
$78 for 6 CPUs. All compilers, XASMs
and monitors: $480. 8051/52 Simulator
(fast, now incl. 80C320): $78. Try the
C-FLEA Virtual Machine for small CPUs,
build a “C-Stamp”. Demo desk: FREE.
All prices + $5 p&p.
Atmel Flash CPU Programmer: Handles the 89Cx051, 89C5x and 89Sxx
ROLA Australia (08) 8270 3175
www.bettanet.net.au/GTD
Silvertone’s RC Receiver
Still the best little performer available!
MP3-CD Player: $699
Plays standard CDs & MP3s
as well.
Plays MP3 CDs made with a
CD writer.
Up to 2200 songs per CD.
Car adapter available.
ROLA 15U & 15UX: $325
Size: 15" (380mm).
Freqency response: 30-3,000Hz
(15U); 30-12,000Hz (15UX).
Power handling: 250 watts RMS.
SPL: 97db/1 metre.
FS (resonant frequency) 30Hz.
Satellite TV Reception
International satellite TV reception in
your home is now
affordable. Send for
your free info pack
containing equipment
catalog, satellite lists, etc or call for
appointment to view. We can display
all satellites from 76.5° to 180°.
Still only $129.50 AM or $149.50 FM.
May be used with most ppm transmitters. This and many other radio control
products available from:
Silvertone Electronics, PO Box 580,
Riverwood 2210.
Phone/Fax (02) 9533 3517.
www.silvertone.com.au
AV-COMM P/L, 24/9 Powells Rd,
Brookvale, NSW 2100.
Tel: 02 9939 4377 or 9939 4378.
Fax: 9939 4376; www.avcomm.com.au
Need prototype PC boards?
We have the solutions – we print electronics!
Four-day turnaround, less if urgent; Artwork from your own
positive or file; Through hole plating; Prompt postal service; 29
years technical experience; Inexpensive; Superb quality.
Printed Electronics, 12A Aristoc Rd,
Glen Waverley, Vic 3150.
Phone: (03) 9545 3722; Fax: (03) 9545 3561
Call Mike Lynch and check us out!
We are the best for low cost, small runs.
Positions At Jaycar
We are often looking for enthusiastic staff
for positions in our retail stores and head
office at Rhodes in Sydney. A genuine
interest in electronics is a necessity. Phone
02 9743 5222 for current vacancies.
series, and the new AVRs in both DIP
and PLCC44. Also does most 8-pin
EEPROMs. Includes socket for serial
ISP cable. $199, $37 tax, $10 p&p.
SOIC adaptors: 20-pin $90, 14-pin
$85, 8-pin $80. Credit cards accepted.
GRANTRONICS PTY LTD, PO Box 275,
Wentworthville 2145. Ph (02) 9896 7150;
Fax (02) 9631 1236; or Internet:
http://www.grantronics.com.au
er/chargers, mod. Sinewave inverters,
call with requirements. AUSTRALIA
WIDE DELIVERY (Free on orders over
$500.00). TASMAN ENERGY: (03)
6362 3050 Fax (03) 6362 3054.
PCBs for all older magazine projects
can be obtained from 0408-613-300 or
http://www.cia.com.au/rcsradio
KITS KITS AND MORE KITS! Check
‘em out at www.ozitronics.com
SOLAR PANELS: 120 watt $995.00,
80 watt $650.00, 60 watt $510.00, 40
watt $395.00 (all with 25 year guarantee). UNBREAKABLE PANELS:
64 watt $550.00, 42 watt $420.00,
32 watt $340.00, 11 watt $190.00, 5
watt $120.00, 1.25 watt $80.00. WIND
GENERATORS: 400 watt $950.00.
INVERTERS: sinewave inverters, invert-
TELEPHONE EXCHANGE SIMULATOR, SC February 1998. Test equipment without the cost of telephone lines.
Melbourne 9806 0110.
KIT ASSEMBLY
ANY KITS assembled/repaired: professional, speedy service. Phone Neville
Walker (07) 3857 2752.
WANTED
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CRO. Phone (07) 5491 6988.
May 2000 95
Silicon Chip Binders
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Advertising Index
Altronics................................. 68-70
REAL
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Av-Comm Pty Ltd.........................95
PLUS P
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DPI Aerosol.................................41
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Dick Smith Electronics........... 12-15
EMC Technologies.......................85
Futurlec.......................................37
Each binder holds up to 14
issues so that you can include
catalogs
Harbuch Electronics....................55
Instant PCBs................................95
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in gold-coloured lettering on
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Jamo Australia.........................OBC
Jaycar ................................... 45-52
Kits-R-Us.....................................95
Price: $12.95 plus $5 p&p each
(available Aust. only)
Microgram Computers................3,9
Order by phoning (02) 9979 5644 & quoting your credit card number;
or fax the details to (02) 9979 6503; or mail your order with cheque or
credit card details to Silicon Chip Publications, PO Box 139, Collaroy,
NSW 2097.
MicroZed Computers..............63,85
Oatley Electronics........................91
Optional Power..........................IFC
PowerQwest................................11
Premier Batteries.......................IBC
DON’T MISS
THE ’BUS
Do you feel left behind by the latest
advances in computer technology? Don’t
miss the bus: get the ’bus!
Includes articles on troubleshooting your
PC, installing and setting up computer
networks, hard disk drive upgrades,
clean installing Windows 98, CPU
upgrades, a basic introduction to Linux
plus much more.
Preston Electronics......................85
Printed Electronics...................... 95
www.siliconchip.com.au
SILICON
CHIP’S
132 Pages
9
$ 95 *
ISBN 0 95852291 X
780958
522910
COMPUTER
OMNIBUS
Rocom Electronics.......................85
LIN
UX
R.T.N............................................11
Silicon Chip Back Issues....... 38-39
A collection of computer features from the pages of SILICON
CHIP magazine
Silicon Chip Binders....................96
Hints o Tips o Upgrades o Fixes
NOW
Covers DOS, Windows 3.1, 95, 98,ANT
V
o
A
DIRE ILABLE
C
SILIC T FROM
ON
just $ CHIP
125
ORDER NOW: Use the handy order form in this issue or call
(02) 9979 5644, 8.30-5.30 Mon-Fri with your credit card details.
RT
P&P
Resurrection Radio......................65
Robotic Education Products........85
INC
LUD
ES
FEA
TUR
E
INC
Rall Electronics............................85
09
9780958522910 09
9
Questronix...................................85
O
Silicon Chip Bookshop........... 88-89
SC Internet Access................ 86-87
SC Computer Omnibus...............71
Silicon Chip Subscriptions...........33
Silvertone Electronics..................95
Smart Fastchargers.....................35
Solar Flair/Ecowatch....................95
HELP SAVE THE NIGHT SKY!
We are losing our heritage of starry night skies. Poor, inefficient
outdoor lighting is causing glare and “light pollution”. This wastes
energy and increases greenhouse gas emissions.
You can help by joining SYDNEY OUTDOOR LIGHTING IMPROVEMENT SOCIETY (SOLIS). SOLIS aims to educate and inform about
quality outdoor lighting and its benefits. We also lobby councils, government and other bodies to promote good lighting practice. SOLIS meetings
are held third Monday night of each month at Sydney Observatory.
Individual membership is $20 pa. Donations are also welcome. Cheques payable
to “SOLIS c/- NSAS”, PO Box 214, West Ryde 2114.
Email: tpeters<at>pip.elm.mq.edu.au
96 Silicon Chip
Telephone Technical Services.....43
Truscott’s Electronic World...........65
Vass Electronics..........................85
_____________________________
PC Boards
Printed circuit boards for SILICON
CHIP projects are made by:
• RCS Radio Pty Ltd. Phone 0408-
613-300.
• Marday Services, PO Box 19-189,
Avondale, Auckland, NZ. Phone (09)
828 5730.
SILICON
CHIP
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