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SILICON
CHIP
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Contents
Vol.13, No.9; September 2000
FEATURES
4 How They’re Bringing You The Games
As you sit back and enjoy the Olympics, think of the massive effort that’s
gone into bringing them to you – by Ross Tester
26 Network Troubleshooting With Fluke’s NetTool
It’s a snack to drive and it works like magic when it comes to tracing network
problems – by Greg Swain
62 LA-CRO – A Must-Have For Students
It’s a CRO, signal generator, frequency analyser, logic analyser, chart
recorder and more, all in one compact package – by Peter Radcliffe
Build A Swimming Pool Alarm –
Page 12.
PROJECTS TO BUILD
12 Build A Swimming Pool Alarm
Don’t wait until summer; build this effective alarm now. It could save a child’s
life – by John Clarke
32 An 8-Channel PC Relay Board
It plugs into your PC’s parallel port and lets you control up to eight external
devices – by Ross Tester
54 Fuel Mixture Display For Cars, Pt.1
Has digital readout and bargraph displays. A PIC microcontroller makes it a
snack to build – by John Clarke
Eight-Channel PC Relay Board –
Page 32.
69 Protoboards: The Easy Way Into Electronics
Use a protoboard to build a light chaser – by Leo Simpson
78 Cybug – The Solar Fly
This simple robot is a great first kit to build. It’s Cybug, the solar fly, and he’s a
real attention-getter – by Ross Tester
SPECIAL COLUMNS
38 Serviceman’s Log
The repair that didn’t make sense – by the TV Serviceman
84 Vintage Radio
Fuel Mixture Display For Cars –
Page 54.
HMV’s Nippergram: a classic 1950s portable radiogram – by Rodney
Champness
DEPARTMENTS
2
20
31
42
53
Publisher’s Letter
Mailbag
Electronics Showcase
Product Showcase
Subscriptions Form
76
89
91
94
96
Circuit Notebook
Ask Silicon Chip
Notes & Errata
Market Centre
Advertising Index
Cybug, The Solar
Fly – Page 78.
SEPTEMBER 2000 1
PUBLISHER’S LETTER
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
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2 Silicon Chip
Electrical licence to
build a kit is ridiculous
A letter in the Mailbag pages of the June 2000
issue has generated more responses than any other issue ever raised in the history of SILICON CHIP.
Entitled “Monkeys in charge of the kingdom” it
raised the concern that it was illegal for people
in Queensland to build mains-operated kits or
even do repairs on mains-operated equipment
unless licensed by the Electrical Licensing board
in that state.
Since then we have had letters on the same
subject in the July & August issues and quite a
few since then, some of which are featured in
this issue. As well, we have an official letter of
response from the Queensland ELB which we have printed in full.
Our reaction, on reading their letter, was that the ELB have their heads in the
sand. Surely they cannot be “for real”. Safety is not really the issue. It is seen
as an attempt by electricians to extend their sphere of influence into areas in
which they previously had none.
Sure, there are some electricians who are highly competent in some areas of
electronics. But that does not mean that a restricted electrical licence should be
required in order to service electronic equipment or assemble mains-operated
electronic kits.
The assembly of electronic kits and reading magazine articles about electronic
circuitry is the only way in which most people ever learn about electronics. In
fact, do-it-yourself electronics has been the main activity which has generated
technical skills in this country, ever since radio broadcasting became possible,
back in the 1920s.
Do the various state ELBs really think they are doing the right thing by trying
to restrict these activities to people who are licensed electricians? Do they realise
the ramifications of this draconian approach? Would Australia be as technically
innovative if this sort of regulation had been enforced in the past? Would we
ever have developed a viable radio industry in the 1920s, 1930s, during World
War II and so on, if licensed electricians were the only ones allowed to build
or work on mains-operated equipment? The answers to all these questions are
perfectly obvious.
If you have too much legislation and regulation you end up with a stultified
society in which very little innovation occurs. Example - most of Europe. Keep
it loose and you get an innovative society like America. Which path do we want
to take?
Clearly, the concept of only allowing suitably licensed people to assemble
mains-operated electronic equipment is ridiculous. Next thing, they’ll want
people to hold a licence to operate their TV and microwave oven; after all, they
are mains-operated appliances and potentially lethal in the wrong circumstanc
es, aren’t they?
Having discussed this topic with the secretary and chairman of the Queensland ELB, I can assure you that they are perfectly reasonable people who do
not have their heads in the sand. Although they have legislation to administer,
they realise that they cannot regulate matters in this way. And most readers will
cheer loudly on that score. But their letter resolves nothing.
Let us hope, when they get around to reviewing the relevant legislation, that
sanity will prevail. To that end, the ELB will be inviting submissions from interested parties in the near future.
Ultimately, electricians should be the only ones to work on fixed mains wiring.
We have no argument with that. But assembly and repairs on mains-operated
appliances and electronic kits are none of their business.
Leo Simpson
How they’re bringing yo
The Ga
a
We probably don’t need to remind you about an event
happening in Sydney (and other cities) this month. After
almost a decade of bid preparation, winning the bid and
planning, the Sydney 2000 Olympic Games have received,
and will receive, more coverage than any event in history.
Here’s how Australia’s telecommunications company,
Telstra, along with international IT giant IBM have built
the infrastructure those games are going to require.
4 Silicon Chip
ou
by Ross Tester
Games
a
SEPTEMBER 2000 5
T
his month, more than 10,000
athletes and 5000 officials from
200 countries will converge on
Sydney to take part in 28 sports.
About 15,000 accredited media
personnel will provide TV, print and
radio coverage for an estimated worldwide audience of more than 3.5 billion
people. A further 8000 unaccred-ited
media personnel will send stories
about Australia to this massive global
audience.
The most comprehensive communications network in Games’ history has
been set up for the Olympic Family,
athletes, officials, broadcast and print
media, other sponsors, security, head
of state and all visitors to the Games
and the Paralympic Games which
follow.
Working in closely with this is one
of the largest, most complex information technology (IT) infrastructures
ever built, to manage and distribute
Games information to the world.
The Millenium Network
The Millennium Network is the
communications network designed
and developed by Telsta specifically for the Games. It combines the
resour-ces and infrastructure of the
existing Telstra network and several
new Games-dedicated networks .
Services include voice, data, video,
mobile and trunk mobile radio. About
1100 technicians from around Australia will be involved in maintaining and
operating the Millennium Network
during the Sydney Olympic Games.
In 1988 and 1992, Telstra worked
with the Korean and Spanish telecommunications authorities on the
Seoul and Barcelona Olympic Games
respectively. More recently, they
assisted with telecommunications
at the 1996 Atlanta Olympic Games
and the 1998 Nagano Winter Olympic
Games, gaining invaluable experience
for Sydney.
The Millennium Network will
service some 35 competition venues
(12 at Sydney Olympic Park), three
Olympic Villages (for athletes, media
and technical officials), the Main
Press Centre (MPC) and International
Broadcast Centre (IBC), together with
more than 100 non-competition venues (covering areas such as transport,
ticketing and accreditation) and official training venues.
The backbone of the Millennium
Network is a series of fibre-optic rings
linking all the venues with the International Broadcast Centre, key telephone exchanges and international
gateways carrying data, telephony,
audio and mobile services from the
venues.
Much of the supporting infrastructure that will serve the Games is
already in use as part of the existing
network.
This includes optic fibre submarine cable connections to Asia, North
America and Europe, satellite earth
stations in Western Australia and
Sydney, a national network of more
than 1.2 million kilometres of optic
fibre cable, digital switching and transmission facilities, and a digital mobile
network that covers more than 94% of
the Australian population.
On top of this, several new dedicated networks around the main site,
Sydney Olympic Park at Homebush
Bay, have been specially built and
installed. These include:
• Transmission Network
• Switched Networks
• Mobile & Wireless Network
• Broadcast Transmission Network
• Video & Audio Networks
• Cable TV Network
• Data Network for IBM
• World Network
The Olympic Transmission Networks will deliver thousands of high
quality circuits for broadcast video,
audio, voice, high speed data, telephony, fax, ISDN and digital mobile phone
base stations (GSM and CDMA).
As well, there is a 60-channel Olympic cable television service plus other
related communications services for
Sydney and interstate venues, various
road events, the International Broadcast Centre (IBC), Main Press Centre
(MPC), Commercial TV and Telstra
networks.
The Millennium Network will provide up to 30,000 telephone and fax
lines to the Olympic Villages, media
centres and competition venues, in
addition to capacity for 15,000 mobile communications services for the
Olympic family.
A close-up view of the huge screen in Telstra’s Global Operations Centre in Melbourne (seen also on the previous page).
This centre controls and monitors all international traffic in and out of Australia and (including that from the Olympic
Games control centre in Sydney. During September, this centre takes on an even more significant role than normal.
6 Silicon Chip
Various types of media – voice,
video and data – can be carried by
the same fibre-optic network using the
international SDH standard.
Self-healing ring architecture
protects against cable outages and
node failures by providing duplicate,
geographically diverse paths for each
service. If a fibre is cut, the services
affected are sent via an alternative path
through the ring without interruption.
Telephone services from all venues will rely on Centrex, a telephone
system which delivers PABX-type services but unlike a PABX, all switching
occurs at a local telephone exchange.
Because the service is provided
from a telephone exchange, it greatly
improves reliability and peak traffic
handling ability, as the much larger
Sydney network is used to carry the
Olympic traffic. The Centrex system
also greatly reduces the need for
cabling to venues, which would otherwise be redundant after the Games.
A megametre of cable...
Speaking of cabling, more than
1000km of building cabling and about
25,000 telecommunication outlets
have been installed through all competition venues as well as selected
non-competition venues such as the
IBC, MPC and Olympic family hotels.
The cable is PVC-free, to meet environmental standards.
Copper cable is used for telephone,
data, wideband services (at 2 Mbps),
video cable, fax and audio commentary
circuits (up to 15kHz). Fibre (much of
it 155 Mbps) has also been run for IBM,
the Sydney Olympics IT partner and
major international sponsor.
When the games begin, all systems will have had a thorough work-out at “test
events” such as this basketball match held under Olympic conditions in Sydney.
The mobile telephony network technology at Sydney Olympic Park for
GSM mobile telephony includes micro
cells and macro cells installed to cater
to the large number of users expected
in a comparatively small area.
More than 60 indoor cells (customised systems) cover all venues requiring in-building telephony coverage.
Some 140 outdoor micro cells cover
outdoor areas within the common
domain areas of Sydney Olympic
Park and other venues. The micro
cells function like standard mobile
telephony cells but cater to a smaller
coverage area.
Six macro cells are used within
the Sydney Olympic Park area, while
one umbrella macro cell covers the
entire park.
The CDMA network for the Sydney
Olympics operate from six macro cell
stations and in-building micro cells,
with each venue having at least one
CDMA cell. A total of approximately
70 CDMA micro cells are used, with
each cell fed with fibre back into the
Telstra network.
To maintain the aesthetic value
of various buildings, the micro cells
and antennas were camouflaged –
disguising them in the same colour
And a million mobile phones
The mobile and wireless network
has been designed to not only meet
the requirements of Games organisers
but to deliver additional capacity to
meet the massive demand for mobile
services expected from spectators.
Both GSM and CDMA networks are
involved. In Sydney Olympic park,
Darling Harbour and other Games
venues, the existing networks’ capacity has been expanded to provide the
densest mobile coverage ever seen
(or heard).
Capacity has been planned to cope
with the mobile phone needs of up to
500,000 spectators at Sydney Olympic
Park and an additional 500,000 people
in the Sydney area.
About 1100 Telstra technicians from around Australia will be involved in
maintaining and operating the Millennium Network during the Sydney Olympic Games. In some instances, particularly at major venues and broadcast and
media facilities, staff will rostered to provide 24 hour service.
SEPTEMBER 2000 7
as the building and installing them
in unobtrusive locations within
buildings.
“Leaky Coax” technology
“Leaky Coax” – radiating coaxial
cable – is a signal-boosting technique
commonly used in locations where RF
signals are too weak to provide reliable
communications. It uses pre-cut holes
that emit a controlled amount of RF
energy. This leakage along the cable’s
length provides continuous coverage
along the chosen route.
Leaky coax cable will be used as the
antenna system in confined areas such
as train tunnels and railway platforms
so mobile phones may be used on
trains and on the platform at Olympic
Park railway station.
Digital trunk radio
The Olympic Radio Network, a digital trunk radio system, will be used
during the Games for a range of operations, transport, emergency services
and security functions.
The system comprises 12 base
stations, employing 224 transmitters
across the Sydney metropolitan area.
Three of the base stations are in the
vicinity of Sydney Olympic Park
and two of these provide in-building
coverage for Stadium Australia and
the Sydney International Aquatic
Centre.
Every site has one control channel
to manage traffic across the network,
plus talk channels, which range from
seven for small sites up to 27 for the
largest site.
The digital system supports as many
as 9,000 radio handsets for SOCOG,
organised into as many as 100 user
groups, or ‘Talk Groups’ of customers
each with their own handset. The Olympic Security Command Centre will
use another 3000 handsets.
Video and audio
The Telstra Video and Audio (VandA) network provides high quality
video and associated audio services.
The network is based mainly on pointto-point fibre, with some venues using
SDH.
VandA will also be available to
other locations such as beauty spots
and road events and any other location connected to the existing fibre
network.
The video and audio interface
being offered to the broadcasters are
standard broadcast formats: PAL with
associated audio or SDI 270 Mb with
embedded audio.
Games cable TV
A special purpose 60-channel
analog cable TV (CATV) point-tomulti-point video service has been installed for the Olympics. This network
enables the Olympic family to follow
Games progress and is required to
provide media and broadcasters with
monitoring facilities at all events in
all venues. It also allows athletes to
follow progress of events from their
Village.
The cable TV content will be sourced from Sydney Olympic Broadcasting
Organisation (SOBO) at the IBC and
distributed via the network to all competition and non-competition venues
in Sydney, including the Olympic
villages.
The two forward fibre transmitters
working at 1550 nanometres will enable service within a 40km radius of
the IBC, including the furthest Sydney
venue, Penrith Lakes.
Information technology
The IBM Global Services Olympic
technology team has developed three
core information systems: the Games
Management Systems; the Results
System; and INFO, an intranet-based
information resource for the 260,000
members of the Olympic Family.
Olympics Communications and Information Technology In Brief:
The Millenium Network, the communications system created by Telstra especially for the Games, has been in
planning and development for nine years;
It services more than 35 competition venues, three Olympic Villages, the International Broadcast Centre, the Main
Press Centre, a Technology Command Centre and dozens of training venues;
It services more than 50 non-competition venues;
It has more than 4,800 kilometres of optical fibre connecting the Olympic venues and the International Broadcast
Centre – more than five times the distance between Sydney and Melbourne;
It has 280 video links from sporting venues to the International Broadcasting Centre and 3,200 audio links – 90% for
use by broadcasters, the remainder for organisers and emergency services;
It has 250 data links for timing and scorekeeping;
It has 60 private cable TV channels to provide live action to the IBC and the Olympic venues and villages;
It links into Telstra’s national network of 1.2 million kilometres of optic fibre;
It provides international access via 11 satellites and submarine cables.
And it will offer facilities for HDTV transmission from Australia.
Three Information Technology systems have been developed by IBM – the Games Management System mainly used
by SOCOG to run the Games, the Results System(including commentator information) and the INFO general
information resource which goes out to 2000 workstations and Olympic information kiosks.
Want more information? Visit the games website, www.olympics.com or Telstra's website, www.telstra.com
8 Silicon Chip
In addition, IBM is working jointly
with SOCOG, developing and managing the Official Sydney 2000 Olympic
Games Web site, www.olympics.com
Games management systems
The Games Management Systems
is a set of applications which SOCOG
uses to run the Games.
Applications include accreditation,
medical, arrivals and departures and
incident tracking. In addition, SOCOG is providing a set of additional
applications including Olympic entries, qualification, accommodations,
staffing, ticketing and transportation.
Games result system
The Games Results System is made
up of two major components, the
Venue Results applications and the
Central Results System.
The Venue Results applications collect competition data including timing, scoring and statistical information
from each event, process the results
based on international sport federation
rules and feed them to scoreboards and
a variety of other output devices in the
Olympic Games venues.
Results are fed to the Commentator Information System (CIS), used
by more than 1,000 broadcast media
personnel at the Games and to the TV
graphics for display on TV screens
around the world.
The Central Results System is a
massive data warehouse managed by
a DB2 database, hosted by an S/390
Parallel Sysplex server and stored in
RAMAC Virtual Array storage devices.
INFO is the “electronic encyclopedia of the Games” and distributes comprehensive information about virtually every aspect of the Olympic Games — past and
present — to more than 2,000 workstations and kiosks to athletes, officials, the
media and the general public.
The Central Results System is at the
heart of the Olympic Games, accessible 24 hours a day.
The system receives competition
information from the Venue Results
applications and distributes it to
15,000 media personnel via more than
700 printers.
At the competition venues, printed
results are also distributed to international sport federation officials,
athletes, coaches and media.
The Central Results System also
transmits the competition results
to the World News Press Agencies
(WNPA) and feeds this information
to INFO for viewing by the Olympic
Family and to the Official Games Web
site for the public.
An IBM S/390 computer is at the
central site with IBM Netfinity servers
located in the venues via both local
area networks (LAN) and a wide area
network (WAN).
In all, approximately 9,000 IBM Personal Computers and ThinkPads are
or will be connected to this Olympic
Games network to provide access to
critical data within the venues and to
communicate with the Central Results
System.
CIS: the broadcaster’s information resource
The Commentator Information System (CIS) is available for 10 Olympic
Readers outside the Sydney area
may not realise how large it
is – and the distances involved.
This map shows the venue
distances from Sydney Olympic
Park at Homebush Bay (No. 1).
The Olympic Rowing Course at
Penrith Lakes (No. 13) is almost
40km away. Even so, all Olympic
venues are no more than a 45
minute drive from Sydney Olympic park or Newington,
the new suburb alongside
which houses all athletes
and team officials. All
venues on this map
are networked with
fibre-optic cable.
SEPTEMBER 2000 9
sports. CIS provides international
broadcasters with real-time competition information directly from the
venue databases, enabling them to
bring their audiences timely coverage
right from the field of play.
Broadcasters access CIS through
touch-screen workstations located
in commentator booths in the Games
venues. At any time commentators can
call up results, statistics, medals data
and current Olympic Games information to enhance their broadcasts and
event coverage.
CIS workstations receive unofficial
competition results through a dedicated local area network (LAN) in each
venue the moment the information
becomes available.
Once competition results are made
official by the sport’s governing body,
CIS is immediately updated to reflect
the final results.
INFO System: streamlining
information access
INFO is an intranet-based system
that is the primary resource for sharing information among the Olympic
Family.
This “electronic encyclopedia of the
Games” distributes comprehensive
information about virtually every aspect of the Olympic Games — past and
present — to more than 2,000 workstations and kiosks located throughout
the Olympic venues.
INFO users can access the following
information categories: results and
statistics; biographies and profiles;
historical results; medal information;
records; schedules; news; transport;
weather and facts & figures.
In addition, accredited Olympic
Family members including media,
athletes, coaches, volunteers, broadcasters, international sport federation
members and International Olympic
Committee (IOC) and Sydney Organising Committee (SOCOG) staff are
provided with an email address within
INFO, allowing them to send mail
and post messages for one another via
electronic bulletin boards.
INFO workstations located in media
centres and Games venues are IBM PCs
running a Netscape Communicator
browser on a Windows NT platform.
The Olympic Games website:
www.olympics.com
Together SOCOG and IBM are creat10 Silicon Chip
ing the Official Sydney 2000 Olympic
Games Web site. One of the largest
event Web sites in the world, it makes
the Sydney Games more accessible
to sports fans worldwide. Containing
about 30,000 pages of information, this
site is expected to receive in excess of
two billion hits during 2000.
Anyone with a Web browser and
Internet access can browse the official
Web site for a wide range of information about Sydney and the Games,
including: sports and venues, news,
arts festivals, tickets and merchandise.
The site has been updated regularly
as preparations for the Games are
finalised.
During the Games, additional information and services will be available,
including real-time results, photos,
athlete biographies and interactive
features.
And Olympic information on
to the world…
Sydney Olympic Park venues are
redundantly linked to IBM’s two data
network hub centres at Homebush via
a dedicated fibre network. These break
out into IBM computer systems in the
hubs. The Homebush dedicated fibre
network will deliver 155Mb connectivity per link.
There is a dedicated transmission
network linking the IBC, International gateway exchanges in Sydney at
Oxford Falls and Paddington and a
national transmission hub exchange,
also in Sydney.
Video traffic will leave Australia via
earth stations Sydney and Perth, Western Australia, under the overall control of the Global Operations Centre in
Melbourne. It will use a combination
of SDH transmission technology with
self-healing ring structures and some
direct optic fibre from venues on diverse paths.
Most broadcasters are expected to
use digital compressed video due to
its cost effectiveness and its ability to
put out more than one channel simultaneously. Four digital video channels
can be accommodated per transponder
bandwidth compared to one using
analog technology. The compression
technology is based on MPEG-2.
To provide a remote area and multipoint distribution network, the national terrestrial network is complemented
by a satellite network incorporating
PanAmSat’s PAS-2 Australia/New
Zealand beam.
Internationally, Telstra has transmit
and receive access to a wide range of
INTELSAT satellites in the Pacific
area, Asia Pacific and Indian Ocean
regions, as well as access to PanAmSat
and AsiaSat systems.
These satellites are accessed via
satellite earth stations in Sydney (Pacific area and Asia Pacific regions) and
SC
Perth (all three regions).
Acknowledgement:
Information and photographs courtesy
Olympic media departments of Telstra
and IBM.
Games images to the world’s TV audience will leave Australia via earth stations
in Sydney and Perth in Western Australia.
SEPTEMBER 2000 11
Drowning is one of the primary causes of accidental death
in children under five. SILICON CHIP would love to see that
statistic eliminated – and this simple, effective pool alarm
could assist in that aim. Don’t wait until summer: build it NOW!
Features
Compact, battery operated
Free-floating unit
Loud siren sounds upon
sudden pool water mo
vement
Reduced sensitivity to win
d
movements and side-of-p
ool
collisions
Splashproof and rain proof
On/Off switch for pool use
Test switch lowers siren vol
ume
50 second alarm
Swimming
Pool
Alarm
by JOHN CLARKE
12 Silicon Chip
W
hile properly designed and
maintained pool fences are
the primary line of defence
in preventing young children falling
into a pool, they are not enough.
Indeed, we speak from first-hand,
recent experience: Georgia, the
18-month-old “model” used in our
photographs, was found leaning over
the edge of the pool (after that same
ball) shortly after the photographs
were taken. The reason – the gate had
not latched properly.
We shudder to think what might
have been if we weren’t close by.
Needless to say, the gate latch has
now been fixed … and we now have
a SILICON CHIP pool alarm floating in
the water.
The problem is, children are very
resourceful when it comes to getting
to a pool: the smallest gap in the fence;
a box or chair left where it can be
climbed on (or dragged to the fence);
even a dog digging a tiny hole under
the fence (if a dog can squeeze through
it, a small child can often do so too…)
So it is unwise to be complacent
about pool safety, even if you think
your pool fence is impenetrable.
Some people install a closed-circuit
TV system to monitor their pool area,
with the screen in, say, the kitchen.
That’s pretty good to keep watch
over the kids while they’re in the
pool and mum, for example, is inside.
But what happens when she’s not in
the kitchen?
And even the best TV monitoring
system is useless when you’re away
and the neighbour’s toddler finds his
or her way into your backyard…
A much better form of protection
is to use a device which can detect
someone actually falling into the
pool – and then screams its head off.
Of course, it would be better to detect them before they fall in but that’s
It’s like an insurance policy: you never know when you need it but you’ll always be grateful that you had it if it’s ever really needed!
getting even more difficult!
One way to detect someone falling
into the pool is to sense any small
change in the water level and set off
an alarm if the change in level matches certain parameters – for example,
changes caused by wind or filter
Specifications
...... 330uA at 6V
Battery current drain.......
.... >6 months
Expected battery life............
ally 50 seconds
Alarm duration..........typic
typically .01g
Movement sensitivity..........
action need to be rejected).
The SILICON CHIP Swimming Pool
Alarm is based on this principle.
It is fully self-contained and battery
operated. There is a small plastic box
which is simply left to float on top of
the pool surface (you could loosely
tether it if necessary). Inside is a
sensor which detects small, though
rapid, changes in the pool water level
as would happen when someone falls
in. On detecting this change, a siren
sounds.
It’s designed to be left on all the
time, except of course when the
pool is being used. A waterproof on/
off switch is provided to allow it to
be removed from the pool without
sounding, and there is another switch
which tests the alarm (at reduced volume) to periodically check the battery.
Detection
Detecting a small child’s body
entering the pool is rather difficult.
The monitoring must attempt to exclude normal pool movements caused
by wind or filter operation but still
detect changes in water level.
Even this is not foolproof: if the
Fig.1: the block diagram of the SILICON CHIP Swimming Pool Alarm. The weighted piezo sensor detects water disturbance in the pool.
SEPTEMBER 2000 13
Fig.1: the low frequency signal from the piezo sensor is amplified to trigger the siren driver.
person climbs slowly down the ladder
the rate of change in water level might
be virtually nonexistent.
By contrast, anyone actually falling
into the pool will usually make quite
a splash with lots of movement of the
pool surface.
Even a child overbalancing while
leaning over the pool edge to retrieve
a toy or ball (by far the most common
scenario) will make large ripples on
the pool surface.
Water level change detection is a
compromise between sufficient sensitivity for the purpose intended while
rejecting normal pool movement due
to wind, etc.
As such, it may produce false alarm
signals on a windy day.
What we are saying is that this
method of sensing water level change
can never be 100% reliable but it is
about as reliable as can be achieved
(within reason).
No pool alarm can give you absolute assurance – it is very much your
second line of defence. Always ensure
the pool fence and gates are in perfect
14 Silicon Chip
order and remain vigilant while ever
kiddies are around.
Block diagram
The block diagram of the Swimming Pool Alarm is shown on Fig.1.
The sensor itself consists of a piezo
element which supports a weight. The
piezo element is attached to a floating
box which floats on the swimming
pool surface.
Any upwards-movement of water
will cause the floating box to rise,
pushing against the piezo which
doesn’t move as quickly due to the
inertia of the attached weight. When
this occurs, the piezo element generates a small voltage output.
Note that a downward movement
of the box will not usually cause decompression of the element. This is
because the floating box drops with
gravity at the same rate as the mass.
The signal from the piezo detector
is amplified by IC1a and filtered so
that only frequencies below about
2Hz pass through. The amplifier has a
gain of 33 for frequencies below 2Hz.
As the mass on the piezo element
also damps out any fast movement
(again due to inertia), it reduces the
high frequency response of the piezo
element. Thus the output from the
filter only changes for slower movements.
The signal is squared up by the following Schmitt trigger (IC1b) and has
an adjustable threshold to allow setting the sensitivity to pool movement.
The Schmitt trigger output is a low
frequency square wave which changes
with the piezo detector output. The
signal drives a charge pump which
requires at least two pulses from the
Schmitt trigger before the output from
the charge pump is low enough to
trigger the following timer. This requirement before triggering the timer
reduces the likelihood of false alarms.
The timer produces a high signal
for about 50 seconds which drives
the siren driver (Q1) and siren. The
siren should be sufficiently loud to
attract attention.
The circuit is housed in a sealed box
to prevent water getting in. However,
the siren must be exposed to the outside air so that it can be heard. It also
needs to be made as loud as possible
to attract attention. This is done by
feeding the siren into a tuned port,
covered to make it splashproof.
Actual dimensions of the port and
cover are fairly critical to maximise the sound output level. Simply
placing an untuned cover over the
siren outlet would severely muffle
the volume.
Fortunately, we found a couple
of easily-obtainable items made a
near-perfect port: the flange or front
section from a standard bayonet-cap
light fitting (the bit that screws on to
the actual lampholder which holds a
lampshade or diffuser in place) and
half a table-tennis (or ping-pong) ball!
Circuit
Use this component overlay with the photograph below as a reference while
building the Pool Alarm and you shouldn’t go wrong. The two 25mm M3
screws don’t actually hold anything – they're there (with the four small “L”shaped brackets not shown in the photo) to stop the battery holders slopping
around in the case.
Fig.2 shows the circuit for the
Swimming Pool Alarm.
Signal from the piezo transducer
is connected to the low pass filter,
comprising IC1a and the associated
resistors and capacitors. The 100kΩ
resistors and 1µF capacitors set the
low pass filter at 2.3Hz, while the
3.3MΩ feedback resistor and .015µF
capacitor set the gain at 33 times at
or below the 2.3Hz rolloff frequency.
IC1a is biased at 1/2 supply (+3V)
at pin 3 by the 1MΩ voltage divider
resistors connected across the supply.
This half supply is decoupled with a
100µF capacitor.
The output of IC1a is also at 1/2
supply and this drives a 2.2kΩ resistor
decoupled with a 470µF capacitor.
The voltage across the 470µF capacitor is therefore at 3V (1/2 supply)
and the resistor and capacitor form a
low pass filter to reject signals above
0.15Hz.
Hysteresis for the Schmitt trigger
(IC1b) is set by the ratio of resistance
between the 3V supply and pin 5 and
the resistance between pins 5 & 7.
Thus the hysteresis can be varied
from about 13mV when VR1 is wound
with its wiper closest to the 2.2kΩ resistor and around 300mV when VR1’s
wiper is closest to the 1MΩ resistor.
The output of the Schmitt trigger
is used to drive a “charge pump”
consisting of diodes D1 & D2 and
capacitors C1 & C2. These produce a
voltage negative with respect to the
+6V line across capacitor C2 whenever IC1b's output is toggling (ie, the
circuit is sensing water disturbance).
SEPTEMBER 2000 15
The voltage across C2 is fed to pin 2,
the trigger input of timer IC2.
IC2 is triggered when its pin 2 goes
below one third of the supply voltage,
or 2V. When triggered, the 47µF capacitor begins charging via the 1MΩ
resistor and the pin 3 output goes
high and drives transistor Q1’s base
via the 2.2kΩ resistor. This transistor
drives the siren.
The siren can be driven directly via
the 6V supply or via the 10kΩ resistor
connecting to the 6V supply for a reduced output level (for testing). This
is selected using switch S2.
The output of IC2 (pin 3 ) stays
high until the 47µF capacitor at pin
6 reaches two thirds of the supply
voltage. The pin 3 output then goes
low and the capacitor is discharged
via the pin 7 output and 10kΩ resistor. The time duration for the alarm
is around 50 seconds.
When power is first switched on,
the reset input of IC2, pin 4, is held
low via the 10µF capacitor to prevent
the timer from being triggered by
IC1b. After about a second the reset
pin voltage reaches about 1V due to
the 10µF capacitor being charged via
the 560kΩ resistor and then the timer
can be triggered.
Construction
The Swimming Pool Alarm is
constructed using a PC board coded
03109001 and measuring 89 x 80mm.
This is housed in a sealed plastic enclosure measuring 115 x 90 x 55mm.
It is important to use this case, not
the plastic project boxes we normally
use, as this one has an integral gasket
in the lid ensuring it is waterproof.
A front panel label measuring 108 x
85mm attaches to the lid of the case.
We used a flange cover from a bayonet light socket to cover the piezo
siren outlet and made a splashproof
hood for it by cutting a table tennis
ball in half. The front panel switches
were also waterproofed with rubber
hoods.
Begin construction by checking the
PC board for shorts or breaks in the
tracks. Also check the hole sizes for
fit, especially for the PC stakes, the
3mm screw holes required for the
piezo transducer and AA cell holder
locating screws. The four corner holes
need to be 3mm in diameter.
Insert and solder in the resistors
and diodes D1 and D2. Use the accompanying resistor colour code table as
16 Silicon Chip
We used the flange from a standard
240V light fitting (at left in photo
above) to form the “tuned port”
cover over the piezo buzzer. This was
capped with half a ping-pong ball.
The diagram at right shows how the
various parts are assembled.
a guide to selecting the correct values
for each position. If in doubt use your
multimeter to verify values. Note that
the 560kΩ resistor is mounted on its
end as shown. Ensure that D1 and
D2 are inserted the right way around.
When mounting IC1 and IC2 take
Parts List – Swimming Pool Alarm
1 PC board coded 03109001, 89
x 80mm
1 sealed ABS enclosure, 115 x
90 x 55mm (Jaycar HB-6126
or DSE H-2863 or equiv.)
1 front panel label 111 x 87mm
2 2 x AA cell holders
4 AA cells
1 dual sound piezo buzzer
(Jaycar AB-3456 or equiv.)
1 piezo audio transducer 30mm
diameter
2 SPDT toggle switches (S1,S2)
2 waterproof boots or hoods for
toggle switches
1 brass or lead cylinder 15mm
OD x 19mm*
1 flange cover from a mains
bayonet light socket or line
socket (tapered from 36mm to
32mm over 35mm length.
1 38mm diameter table tennis
ball
2 40mm lengths of 1.25mm diameter cold drawn brass wire
4 right angle brackets 7 x 9 x
10mm wide
4 M3 x 6mm screws
2 M3 x 10mm screws
2 M3 x 25mm screws
4 M3 nuts
11 PC stakes
1 200mm length of red hookup
wire
1 200mm length of black hookup
wire
Semiconductors
1 TL062 dual low power op amp
(IC1)
1 7555, LMC555CN CMOS 555
timer (IC2)
1 BC338 NPN transistor (Q1)
2 1N914, 1N4148 switching
diodes (D1,D2)
Capacitors
2 470µF 16VW PC electrolytic
1 100µF 16VW PC electrolytic
1 47µF RBLL electrolytic
1 10µF 16VW PC electrolytic
3 1µF MKT polyester
1 0.56µF MKT polyester (used
while adjusting sensitivity)
1 0.22µF MKT polyester
2 0.1µF MKT polyester
1 .015µF MKT polyester
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
2 10MΩ
1 3.3MΩ
5 1MΩ
1 560kΩ
3 100kΩ
2 10kΩ
3 2.2kΩ
1 50kΩ (503) horizontal trim pot
(VR1)
Miscellaneous
Solder, neutral cure Silicone
sealant (roof & gutter type),
“body” for setting sensitivty etc.
*See text for alternatives
These two photos give a good idea of how
the whole lot goes together, especially the
“tricky bits” – securing the weight to the piezo
trans-ducer and splash-proofing the piezo buzzer with a flange from a light fitting and half a
ping-pong ball.
care with their orientation. Likewise,
the electrolytic capacitors (the MKT
types can be mounted either way
around). The accompanying capacitor
code table will help you in selecting
the value for each position.
Transistor Q1 and the PC stakes can
be inserted and soldered in position
now. Finally, trimpot VR1 can be
installed.
Piezo and weight
Remove the back from the piezo
transducer by prising the two halves
apart (the back is not used and can be
discarded). Attach the transducer in
place upside down on the PC board
using 10mm M3 screws and nuts.
For the weight attached to the transducer, we used a piece of brass water
tap plunger (the part that pushes the
valve down when you turn the tap
off), cut to 19mm long to clear the
back of the piezo buzzer when the
case is assembled.
Alternatively, you could use a
19mm long piece of 13-14mm diameter brass rod, or you could fashion
your own weight using a plumbers’
fitting such as a 12.5mm (1/2") brass
pipe cap (also known as a stop end),
cut to 19mm long and filling it with
lead or even solder.
This weight is glued to the piezo
element on the transducer using a
smear of silicone sealant between
Resistor Colour Codes
No. Value 4-Band Code (1%)
2 10MΩ brown black blue brown
1 3.3MΩ orange orange green brown
5 1MΩ
brown black green brown
1 560kΩ green blue yellow brown
3 100kΩ brown black yellow brown
2 10kΩ brown black orange brown
3 2.2kΩ red red red brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black green brown
orange orange black yellow brown
brown black black yellow brown
green blue black orange brown
brown black black orange brown
brown black black red brown
red red black brown brown
the mating faces. Allow the sealant
to cure.
Also, while you have the silicone
sealant out, put a small dab in the
holes in the base of the case. This will
trap air inside the holes and provide
extra buoyancy.
The lid and cover
Cut a 25mm diameter hole in the
centre of the case lid, either with a
25mm hole-saw, or by first drilling
a series of small holes around the
required perimeter and removing this
piece then filing to shape. The piezo
siren should be a tight fit in the hole.
Next drill the holes for the two
switches using the front panel artwork
as a guide to their position.
We made our cover for the piezo
siren from a flange from a standard
Capacitor Codes
Value
1µF
0.56µF
0.22µF
0.1µF
.015µF
IEC code
105
564
224
104
153
EIA code
1u
560n
220n
100n
15n
SEPTEMBER 2000 17
(bayonet cap) light fitting. They’re all
much the same size.
The flange is placed with the larger
diameter end on the lid. File a couple
of small notches in this larger diameter end so that water can flow out
through these if some does enter. Test
that the notches are large enough for
water to flow out by placing the end
on a flat bench (eg, bathroom sink)
and pouring some water in. The water
should flow out leaving only a couple
of drops inside.
The smaller diameter end of the
bayonet flange requires brass wire
crosshairs to be placed symmetrically
across the opening so that the cut in
half table-tennis ball can be held in
place over the opening. We secured
the crosshairs in place by melting the
wires into the plastic flange using a
soldering iron.
The table tennis ball is cut in half
using a fine toothed hacksaw and
smoothed by rubbing the cut edge
on a sheet of fine glass-paper on a
flat surface. The half ball is secured
centrally over the wire crosshairs
and secured at these four points with
silicone sealant.
Attach the bayonet flange to the lid
with a smear of silicone sealant taking
care not to fill the water outlet notches
cut previously.
Four small L-shaped brackets are
required to hold the two AA cell
holders in place. We made ours from
some bits of chassis-mounting capacitor brackets but any small pieces of
metal would be fine. Exact size isn’t
critical – ours were about 7mm wide
and each leg was about 9-10mm long.
One of the legs on each bracket needs
to be drilled to accept the M3 screws.
Further support for the AA cell
holders is provided by the 25mm M3
screws mounted on the PC board.
When the silicone sealant has
dried, you can attach the front panel
label and secure the switches in place
along with their rubber boot covers.
Wire up as shown and insert the PC
board in place remembering to also
attach the right-angle battery holder
brackets under the corner mounting
screws.
Insert the cells and switch on power. Set S2 to the test alarm position.
Check that there is 6V between pins
4 and 8 of IC1 and between pins 1
and 8 of IC2. Pin 1 of IC1a should be
at around 3V after about 60 seconds
from power being switched on. Jerk
18 Silicon Chip
Full-sized artwork for the Pool
Alarm front
panel and PC
board. A photocopy of the front
panel makes a
handy drilling
template for the
case lid.
the box upward and check that the
siren sounds for about 50 seconds.
The “body” test
Testing in the swimming pool needs
to be done with the lid secured on
with its neoprene gasket in place.
That means you’ll need to remove
the lid each time you need to adjust
the sensitivity pot, VR1 but otherwise
you risk filling the alarm with water!
VR1 should be adjusted so that
the alarm will sound when a person
enters the pool but not so sensitive
that it is triggered with normal pool
water movements.
Adjustment of VR1 may be easier on
your ears if you temporarily replace
the 47µF capacitor on pin 6 of IC2 with
a 0.56µF capacitor. This will reduce
the alarm time to less than one second.
First, though, you'll need to find a
small volunteer “victim” (the smaller
the better) – but please, make sure
they can swim!
Get them to jump in, fall in and
even “ease” themselves into the pool,
setting the sensitivity pot (VR1) as low
as you can with the alarm triggering
reliably every time they go in.
To check that it will work with a
toddler, we don’t suggest throwing
one in(!) but perhaps a few bricks
wrapped in towels, weighing say
7-10kg, would be a reasonable approximation.
SC
DON’T
UTER
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09
MAILBAG
Cars are still
very inefficient
With some misgivings, I read your
glowing editorial enti
tled, “42V
Electrical Systems In Cars”, about
the radical changes in automotive
engineering, in the July 2000 issue.
I would like to quote some sobering
facts from an authoritative Victorian
car magazine.
In the average city driving cycle,
only 13% of the energy your car
generates actually ends up propelling it forward! (The magazine is
talking about the current generation
of cars). The highway driving cycle
is somewhat less brutal on your car’s
energy output, but still only 20%
gets transferred to forward motion.
After well over a hundred years of
automotive engineering, I think we
can only classify the car as a very
backward piece of design.
W. Beyer,
Longford, Vic.
Electrical licensing
is a joke
I am writing in regard to the letter
entitled “Monkeys in charge of the
kingdom” in the Mailbag pages of
the July 2000 issue. I would like to
support the contents of this article
and confirm that a similar situation
exists in South Australia. The electronics industry has largely been
considered as a group of hobbyists
content to quietly sit in a back room
and do their thing. It’s about time we
had this image changed.
No other group has had to face the
rapid changes in technological advances, diversification and growth,
from valves, transistors, integrated
circuits to large scale integrated
circuits, from point to point wiring
to simple printed circuit boards on
to multilayer printed circuit boards,
from simple single valve radios to
big powerful computing systems.
The list goes on and on.
There is no facet of life that is not
affected or controlled by electronics.
This has happened in ONE human
lifetime. What more needs to be said
20 Silicon Chip
about the role of electronics in the
everyday safety of people?
The current electrical licensing
system is a joke and needs to be
shown up for what it really is. I have
been an electronics technician for
over forty years working on aircraft,
scientific and research equipment,
industrial control systems and automotive equipment. I have attended
college/TAFE courses in advanced
electronics, small computer maintenance, refrigeration, industri
al
programmable logic controllers
and a year’s part-time course on
understanding AS3000 and AS3008.
I also developed an in depth understanding and application of power
controllers for both DC motor and
AC motor inverters up to 150 HP.
To add insult to injury, I have just
received a bill for $206.00 as a fee
to renew my restricted “B” class
licence for one year. This allows
me to work on electronic equipment
hard-wired to the mains supply.
BIG DEAL. Previously this licence
was no fee (correct value). I have
tried to get this licence upgraded
to something useful, but no way
unless I can do an apprenticeship
as an electrician.
I hope this letter is useful in supporting your other correspondent.
Name supplied and withheld at
writer’s request.
Electrical licensing a
catch-22 situation
I totally concur with the letter in
the July issue referring to the Electrical Licensing Boards as “monkeys
in charge of the kingdom”. I believe
they are a barrier to people with
initiative.
In Western Australia these people
do everything they can to prevent anyone obtaining an electrical licence.
Unfortunately, the real world is that
almost every work practice involves
electricity and hence electrical wiring. Having an electrical licence is
now a necessity.
The WA Licensing Board won’t
even consider you if you don’t al-
ready have a job that requires you
to do electrical wiring. This is a
catch-22. If you can argue your case,
after much discussion (delays) on
their part, you may be allowed to
attend classes for a restricted licence
that costs a fortune to learn basic
electricity that you already know.
Further to this, you then need a qualified person to supervise you for so
many months afterwards depending
on the type of licence.
In fact, the only people I am aware
of that are currently doing their electrical licences are people who have
relatives that are already qualified
electricians. It is a rubber stamp
of approval for them regardless of
their abilities. They then obtain their
electrical A-class licences which
allows them to work on just about
everything.
Why aren’t these Electrical Boards
forced to do some genuine work?
Why don’t they organise realistic
training programs such that a licence fits the skills acquired? Let’s
get some accountability into these
power brokers.
Electricians refer to anyone without a licence as “cowboys” but you
only have to see their workmanship
to see who the real cowboys are.
Ask an electrician how a Wattmeter
works; it stumps them every time.
I would ask you to withhold my
name and address as I too must “play
the game” and go cap in hand to the
Board in the hope of having a crumb
of a restricted licence thrown at me.
Letter was in
poor taste
I am responding to the letter
in your July 2000 Mailbag page,
headed “Monkeys in charge of the
kingdom”. As an electri
cian by
trade and a subscriber of SILICON
CHIP for many years, I was not only
offended but found the article to be
of very poor taste (even though the
Editor’s comments tried to water
down the text).
I agree with the writer’s complaint
concerning his occupation and the
Queensland Electrical Licensing
Board regulations but I suggest he
stays focused on that issue.
Whilst I can only aspire to the
intellect of a “TAFE quali
f ied
technical officer”, I have always
enjoyed your magazine, and have
successfully constructed many of
your projects.
I trust the contents of the next
issue can be enjoyed by all occupations.
A. Doust,
Erskine, WA.
Qualified electronics people
make mistakes too
I feel I must reply to the “Monkeys
in charge of the king
dom” letter
in the July 2000 issue of SILICON
CHIP. Your corre
spondent in one
point said he had to rewire devices.
Well, I for one have had to replace,
repair or whatever articles left in a
poor/dangerous state by so-called
technical offices (with re
stricted
licences). Maybe more restrictions
are required.
I am employed in industrial
repair and maintenance involving
such varied items as PLCs, process control, high voltage (11kV),
switching, motor control (VF drives
and soft starters) up to 400kW, as
well as cable dragging mentioned
by your correspondent, and I know
of a large number of electricians
who are in the same field, which
involves a large amount of working
on electronic equipment. I have also
been involved in computer work,
both hardware and software-based
(includ-ing TCP/IP networks,
RS232/485 comms circuits, etc.)
I take personal offence to your
correspondent’s comments (and
also your comments) re electronic
equipment building, having built
various projects myself over the
years. I feel a lot of other electrical
fitters would also take offence to
the comments.
Also, I note your correspondent
mentions the “Electrical Workers
Board” in Queensland. It is now
known as the Electrical Licensing
Board. During the last 12 months
(1st July 1999 - 30th June 2000) ALL
electrical licences (both electrical
fitter/joint
er/linesperson and restricted licences) have had to be renewed, so maybe your correspondent is now working unlicensed.
So maybe your correspondent
just has sour grapes about not being
able to do as he pleases. Would you
employ a butcher (no offence meant)
to fix your house wiring?
Please withhold my name and
address (as your correspondent has)
as I don’t want hate mail, etc.
The official response
from the Queensland ELB
The Electrical Licensing Board
(ELB) recently received a copy of an
extract from the July 2000 edition of
SILICON CHIP. A latter article in the
Mailbag section entitled “Monkeys
in charge of the kingdom” drew the
attention of the ELB who considered
it appropriate that a response be
forwarded to you.
The writer of the letter raised concerns that it is not legal to build kits
in Queensland without an electrical
licence. We consider an explanation
is warranted to explain the issues
involved and particularly the
Board’s concern for electrical safety.
Restricted electrical licences
related to plug-in equipment are
available to suitably qualified and
experienced persons and allow, on
mains-operated equipment, the replacement or repair of flexible leads,
fault finding and the replacement
of electrical component parts. In
Queensland many of these restricted electrical licences are issued to
persons involved in the electronics
field.
The ELB encourages people
involved in the electronics field
to gain knowledge of the basic
electrical safety principles and has
been successful in having these
principles covered in elec
t rical
traineeships and education courses thereby ensuring experience to
qualify for a restricted licence in a
person’s field of work.
Work on equipment operating at
extra low voltage, not more than
32V AC or 115V DC, is not subject to licensing. In addition, an
electrical licence is not required at
an industrial workplace for manufacturing, assembling or repairing
electrical articles if the principal
manufacturing process carried on at
the workplace is the making, assembling, altering, repairing or adapting
of electrical articles. Accordingly,
not all work on the kits referred to
is subject to electrical licensing.
We are sure that service persons
would be aware of the potential
electrical safety concerns if appropriate standards and testing
procedures are not followed. For
example, there are cases where inappropriate modifications to television receivers have caused electric
shock via the aerial connections.
There are also many other cases
where people don’t recognise the
hazards of their activities and have
carried out work that has serious
electrical safety concerns.
While it is recognised that some
electricians do not have the necessary skills to carry out electronics
work, a fundamental requirement of
the licensing system is the responsibility for the licence holder to only
perform work they are competent
to undertake. To enhance competence in the licensing system, every
electrical worker is also required to
furnish proof of skills maintenance
in key electrical safety areas at licence renewal.
The Board has been advised that
a review of Queensland’s electrical
safety legislation is planned in the
near future. This will involve full
stakeholder consultation and no
doubt this issue will receive attention as part of the review.
I trust your readers now more
fully understand the concerns
Board members have for electrical
safety and assist in the promotion
of electrical safety throughout the
community.
Eugene Ladyko,
Secretary,
Electrical Licensing Board,
Brisbane, Qld.
SEPTEMBER 2000 21
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
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SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
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SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
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Network
troubleshooting with
Fluke’s NetTool
Small networks involving just a few PCs are
easy to troubleshoot but it’s a different story
with larger networks. Fluke’s NetTool is a
snack to drive and it works like magic when
it comes to tracing network problems.
By GREG SWAIN
There’s usually not a lot that can go
wrong on a small computer network.
After all, it either works or it doesn’t.
And if it doesn’t, the problem can be
quickly diagnosed without specialised
test gear.
That’s because small networks
are really quite simple in concept.
Generally, they consist of just a few
computers hanging off a single hub or
perhaps several hubs linked together.
If you strike problems, it’s no big deal
26 Silicon Chip
to check each machine for correct setup; ie, checking the installed protocols
and checking that other settings, such
as TCP/IP addresses, subnet masks and
workgroup names, are correct.
If you suspect a hardware fault,
then a PC itself makes a pretty good
piece of diagnostic gear. It can indicate
whether or not its network interface
card (NIC) is properly installed and it
can be used to run diagnostic software.
For example, if you are using the TCP/
IP protocol, you can try pinging other
computers on the network to see if you
get a response (see panel).
Another diagnostic tool, Net Watch
er, lets you view your shared resources
and check who is accessing these resources. However, it cannot perform
traffic analysis or indicate potential
problems.
Often, hardware faults are diagnosed by swapping suspect components until the problem goes away.
On a small network, it’s really just a
matter of using your common sense,
plus a bit of trial and error.
Large networks
When we move to large networks,
the trial and error approach is just
too time-consuming. There are just
too many fault possibilities and other
complications to make this approach
practical.
On a large network, you’ve probably got a DHCP server (for dynamically assigning TCP/IP addresses),
primary and secondary WINS servers,
a PDC (primary domain controller),
a BDC (backup domain controller);
SMTP and POP3 mail servers; and
perhaps a DNS (domain name server).
No; I’m not going to explain what all
these services do. This stuff is for the
professionals and if you don’t know,
you probably don’t need Fluke’s
NetTool.
Suffice to say, there are lots of things
that can go wrong on a large network.
How do you know if the DHCP server
has lost its marbles and started issuing
duplicate IP numbers? Or if there’s a
rogue protocol on one or more machines that’s gumming up the works?
Or if there are lots of data collisions
slowing things down? Or if the WINS
server is out to lunch or signal levels
are too low?
To run these problems to ground,
you need a serious network analysis
tool such as Fluke’s NetTool. It works
with 10Base-T and 100Base-TX networks and can quickly identify a wide
range of problems. But its talents don’t
end there – hook it into a network and
it will eventually identify the major
components and services on that
network (it also detects Token-Ring
networks and phone systems but
cannot analyse them).
The Fluke NetTool
As you’ve probably gathered by
now, NetTool is aimed at professional
network administrators and installers.
It’s a handheld device that combines
cable, network and PC configuration
testing into a single unit that’s incredibly easy to drive.
The exterior appearance of the
NetTool is disarmingly sim
ple. It
has a large LCD screen that displays
data in alphanumeric and graphical
form; two RJ-45 sockets for accepting
network cables; four tricolour LEDs;
and six pushbutton switches. These
switches include an On/Off switch
(green); four Navigation buttons arranged in an oval (up, down, left &
right); and a Select button.
The tricolour LED indicators (two
on either side) show the link and network “health” indication at a glance.
For example, the Link/CLSN/ERR
LED glows green when link pulses
are present, yellow when collisions
are occurring and red when errors
Fig.1: plug a network cable
into both sockets and NetTool shows the cable length
and the “wiremap”.
Fig.4: the “wiremap” adapter is useful for sorting out
cables in a patch cupboard.
Fig.2: the cable length can
also be quickly determined
in single-ended node. Note
the “spool” icon.
Fig.5: NetTool identifies
both straight-through and
crossover cables.
are occurring. Similarly, the UTIL
(utilisation) LED is green when utilisation levels are below 40%, yellow
for levels between 40% and 70% and
red for levels greater than 70%.
The easiest way to operate the
device is to hold it in one hand and
activate the pushbuttons with your
thumb. You turn the unit on or off by
holding down the green Power button
for two seconds.
Cable testing
First the simple stuff. Naturally, the
NetTool can be used for cable testing.
To do this, you simply plug both ends
of the cable into the RJ-45 jacks on
either side, power up the unit and
press Select when AutoTest Flashes
on the screen.
When you do this, the unit checks
both sockets in turn and then displays
the results on the LCD in graphical
form – see Fig.1. The length of the
cable is also shown.
This is great for identifying both
“straight-through” and “crossover”
cables and for quickly determining
cable length. It can also quickly in-
Fig.3: selecting the spool
icon in Fig.2 brings up this
display which shows the
cable status.
Checking
Network
Cables
dicate a faulty cable; eg, if one of the
connections is open circuit.
A variation on this theme is to use
the unit in so-called “Single-Ended
Mode”, whereby you plug the cable
into only one socket. Again, the unit
will quickly determine the length of
the cable (Fig.2), after which the cable
status can be displayed by navigating
to the Spool icon (top, right of the
LCD) and pressing Select – see Fig.3.
In this instance, the four twisted
pairs are open at 4.9 metres, which is
the length of the cable being tested.
The single-ended mode is also
useful for identifying network cable
drops. A typical scenario is where
you need to identify which cable in
a patch cupboard connects back to
a given wall socket. This involves
plugging the NetTool into the wall
socket and testing each cable in the
patch cupboard in turn by fitting it
with the supplied “wiremap” adapter
(basically, a loopback device).
When the correct cable is found, the
wiremap adapter symbol appears on
the LCD (Fig.4). It can then be selected
using the navigation buttons, and the
The “wiremap” adapter
is basically a loopback
device that’s used to
terminate a cable (via
a supplied coupler) or
a wall socket. It’s used
mainly for cable
identification.
SEPTEMBER 2000 27
Services, Problems And Health
or metres, enable or disable the Auto
power-off feature, adjust the display
contrast and program in Unwanted
Protocols.
Unwanted protocols
Fig.6: plug the NetTool into
a network and it quickly
identifies what’s on either
end of the cable. It also
shows link speed, signal
polarity, signal level and
the cable connections.
Fig.7: selecting the NetTool
icon itself brings up the
NetTool setup display. This
lets you choose the units of
measure, adjust the display
contrast and enable the
auto power-off feature.
Fig.8: the Unwanted Protocols screen lets you program
the NetTool to watch for
unwanted protocols on a
network. We’ve selected
NetBEUI here as a demonstration.
Fig.9: the Problem Log lists
any network problems that
are identified.
Fig.10: NetTool is able to
identify all protocols that
are present on a network.
Fig.11: the IP entry can be
probed to show the IP
protocols that are present.
Fig.12: the Key Devices
entry shows all the servers,
routers and printers that
NetTool has found on the
network.
Fig.13: once it’s found
key devices, NetTool can
identify their IP addresses
and indicate the services
offered (eg, POP3).
Fig.14: probing the Health
entry brings up this display.
The two meters indicate the
network “health” on either
side of the NetTool.
Select button pressed to display the
internal connections – Fig.5.
Service identification
This is where NetTool really shines.
Plug it into your network, select AutoTest and it immediately determines
what’s on the other end of the cable
(usually a network hub). Alternative
ly, you can connect the NetTool in
“Inline Mode”. This simply involves
connecting it between two devices
simultaneously, such as a PC and a
hub – see Fig.6.
This mode is particularly handy for
verifying that a PC is communicating
properly with a network, for example.
Initially, NetTool displays the advertised speed, duplex capability and
link configuration. It then eavesdrops
on the PC-to-network traffic as the PC
attempts to access network resources,
after which it shows how the PC is
configured and lists any servers, routers or printers used.
28 Silicon Chip
As shown in Fig.6, the LCD shows
icons at the top for devices and below it a main Menu listing Problems,
Protocols, Key Devices and Health. In
addition, there are several indicators
near the devices that show the link
and cabling information, including
link speed (eg, 10MB/s or 100MB/s),
polarity, signal level, whether the cables are straight-through or swapped,
and the duplex setting for each device
(whether full or half duplex).
This information is all there, at your
fingertips, in a matter of moments.
So, for example, if you’ve got a dodgy
connection, or if signal levels are too
low, or if you cannot access a DHCP or
email server, you can quickly diagnose
the problem.
Selecting an icon takes you through
menus that are relevant to that particular device. Choosing the NetTool icon,
for example, brings up the NetTool
Setup display (Fig.7). Here, you can
choose to display cable lengths in feet
Fig.8 shows the Unwanted Protocols selection screen. As an exercise,
we programmed in NetBEUI as an unwanted protocol and then connected
NetTool to our own network which
does in fact have NetBEUI installed as
a protocol (along with TCP/IP). Sure
enough, NetTool immediately flagged
a problem at the main menu, by dis
playing “(1)” after the Problems entry.
Each of the menu entries can be
selected, to take you through the various “Discovery” screens. Selecting
“Problems (1)”, for example, brings
up the Problems Log screen (Fig.9).
In this case, the unwanted NetBEUI
protocol has been correctly identified.
OK, that’s a fairly simple example.
There are lots of other problems
that NetTool can identify and these
are broadly broken down into Link
Connectivity problems, Health problems, Netware problems (eg, frame
mismatches), TCP/IP problems, DHCP
problems, Name Resolution problems
(eg, DNS server not found or PC DNS
server incorrect), NetBIOS problems,
Web and Email problems, and Printer
problems.
If it can’t find the Primary Domain
Controller or Backup Domain Controller, NetTool will tell you. If the
DHCP server is issuing duplicate IP
addresses, NetTool will tell you. If
there’s a duplex or speed mismatch, or
an unwanted protocol or a duplicate
NetBIOS name, NetTool will show
you. If you cannot connect to a DNS
server, a WINS server or a mail server,
NetTool will tell you that too.
Protocols and devices
Selecting Protocols naturally shows
the protocols present on the network
and these can then be further probed
to show which services are present –
see Figs.10 & 11. This feature, together
with the ability of the unit to flag
unwanted protocols, is handy if you
are migrating a network away from
certain protocols and want to clear
out any old remnants.
The Key Devices entry is particularly interesting. This lets you check
out all the servers, routers and printers
that NetTool has found on the network
(Fig.12). In particular, NetTool can
identify HTTP, SMTP, POP3, WINS,
DHCP, DNS and Netware servers,
as well as a router gateway. And if
that’s not enough, it can identify the
IP address of each one, determine
its MAC address and (usually after a
while) determine the NetBIOS name
as well (Fig.13).
By the way, NetTool doesn’t immediately identify all the services
on a network when it’s first turned
on. Instead, it has to “see” a certain
amount of traffic on a network or device before it can supply protocol or
health information, or even identify
key devices.
In that sense, NetTool can be considered as a passive device that sits
back and listens to network traffic.
It doesn’t actively probe for devices
as such.
The final entry in the main menu is
Health and this brings up a graphical
interface showing two meters. Here,
you check each side of the link for
healthy frames in real time. You can
also use the Navigation and Select
buttons to change the meters to show
utilisation, broadcast traffic, collisions
or error levels from either device to
which NetTool is connected (Fig.14).
PC configuration
Troubleshooting an individual PC
on a network involves connecting the
NetTool between it and the hub and
selecting the PC icon. You can then
use NetTool to determine the PC’s
configuration and network health by
navigating through the various menus.
In particular, the health screen is quite
different to before (see Fig.15) and,
among other things, indicates short
frames, “jabbers” and collisions.
Jabbers, by the way, are frames that
are longer than the maximum legal
The unwanted network protocols
feature is handy if you’re migrating a
network from one protocol to another
or if you just want to find a protocol
that might be causing problems.
Basic Network Troubleshooting Utilities
WANT TO SEE what’s happening on a network? The Net
Watcher utility (Win95/98) lets
you view your shared resources and check who is acessing
those resources.
You’ll find it under the System
Tools entry in the Start menu.
If it’s not there, you will have to
install it using the Add/Remove
Programs wizard in Control
Panel.
YOU CAN quickly check the IP
address assigned to a computer
(and obtain other useful information) using the Winipcfg utility. It’s
started by clicking Start, Run and
typing winipcfg in the Open field
and clicking OK (NT users should
type ipconfig at the DOS prompt).
This utility is particularly handy
for checking that a PC is correctly
obtaining an IP address from a
DHCP server, either on a local area
network (LAN) or via a dial-up (eg,
Internet) connection. Also shown is
the address of the DHCP server,
the IP address lease period, the
subnet mask and default gateway,
DNS and WINS server addresses.
THE “PING” UTILITY is installed with Win95/98, NT & Windows 2000 and
is handy for verifying TCP/IP connections. It’s run from the DOS prompt by
typing ping [IP address] or ping [host name], (eg, ping 192.168.0.100 or ping
Starbug). The utility sends a series of data packets to the remote computer, listens for a reply and displays the results (see above). If pinging the IP
address gives a response but pinging the host name doesn’t, then you may
have a name resolution problem (check that the host name matches the entry
in the local lmhosts or hosts file). You can also ping your computer’s own IP
address (eg, to verify that its TCP/IP installation is working correctly) and use
the utility to verify correct entries for default gateways, etc.
SEPTEMBER 2000 29
LE
($121.00); and an AC adapter ($51.70).
Power for the unit is normally supplied by four AA 1.5V batteries but for
heavy-duty use, the NiHM recharge
ables are the way to go.
PC Configuration
Conclusion
Fig.15: typical health
display for an individual PC
on a network. It indicates
short frames, jabbers &
collisions (see text).
Fig.16: the link configurat
ion display shows the signal
level and polarity, as well
as the link speed and the
receive pair.
Fig.17: the IP and MAC
addresses of the PC are
shown, along with its
NetBIOS name. This saves
checking at the PC itself.
size. Just thought that you’d like to
know that, so you can sleep tonight!
There’s also a new menu item called
“Link Configuration” (Fig.16). As before, NetTool tells you the installed
network protocols, the PC’s IP and
MAC addresses (Fig.17), Netware
frame numbers and its NetBIOS name
and flags any network problems.
Selecting the hub icon brings up a
similar selection of menus. A handy
feature here is that you can view the
network segment ID.
We won’t go into all the features
here. By now, you should have well
and truly got the message – this is
a very comprehensive and versatile
network analysis tool.
all, as Fluke’s manual states, “What
would we do without a little software
in our lives?”
Fluke calls the software “NetTool
Blaster”. Among other things, it lets
you update the internal “smarts” of
your NetTool with the latest software
(available from Fluke’s website) – see
Fig.19. Also included on the CD-ROM
are copies of the Quick Reference
Guide and NetTool User’s Manual,
both in Adobe pdf format.
The manuals are easy to follow
and the full version even includes a
troubleshooting guide. This gives a
concise explanation of each problem
that can be detected by the NetTool
and suggests possible remedies.
Updating NetTool
Optional extras
Included with the NetTool is the
wiremap adapter, a serial cable adapt
er, an RJ45-to-RJ45 coupler, a Quick
Reference Guide and a CD-ROM. After
Naturally, there are a few optional extras available for the NetTool.
These include a rechargeable NiMH
battery pack ($30.80); a battery charger
They say that good things come in
small packages and that’s certainly
true of the NetTool. It mightn’t look all
that impressive at first glance but its
simple exterior hides some very clever
circuitry and software. And as we said
at the start, it works like magic.
Unfortunately, magic doesn’t come
cheap. At $3184.50 (incl. GST) for the
NT-IL (NetTool Inline) model review
ed here, this tool is clearly aimed at
professionals. However, if networks
are your life (or perhaps the bane of
your life), that figure could well be a
bargain. It should be in every professional networker’s toolbox.
Alternatively, you can buy the
NetTool Standard (NT) model for
$1864.50. This model provides single-ended testing only but comes with
a 50-use trial of the Inline Option. A
software upgrade lets you turn an NT
model into an NT-IL.
Want to find out more on the NetTool? Point your web browser to www.
fluken etworks.com/nettool; email
sales<at>fluke.com.au; or phone Fluke
on (02) 8850 3333.
You can buy the Fluke NetTool from
Fluke, Namlea Data Systems (phone
1300 303 069) or from Anixter AusSC
tralia (phone 02 9333 0800).
What Would Life Be Without Some Software?
Fig.19 (below): pressing the Update NetTool button
shown in Fig.18 brings up this dialog box. You can then
reprogram your NetTool with the latest software revision.
Fig.18: the NetTool Blaster
software lets you update to
the latest software revision
and even download screen
shots on the NetTool to your
PC (that’s how we got the
screen shots in this article).
30 Silicon Chip
Above: the NetTool is supplied with a CDROM, a serial cable adapter (for connecting
it to a PC), a wiremap adapter, an RJ45-toRJ45 coupler and a Quick Reference Guide.
A few optional extras are also available,
including an AC adapter, a rechargeable
NiMH battery pack and a battery charger.
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Control devices via your PC parallel port with this
Eight-Channel Relay Board
by Ross Tester
H
ave you ever wanted to turn
something on or off with a
command from your com-
puter?
Here’s a simple project that does just
that – in fact, it will control up to eight
external devices via your computer’s
parallel port.
Most of us have at some stage
thought “wouldn’t it be nice if I could
get the computer to do X” (fill in your
own “X”!) but then have done nothing
more because, well, how do you interface a computer with the real world?
It’s surprisingly easy!
As you would no doubt realise, your
computer already “talks” to external
devices via its parallel port (more than
likely a printer; perhaps a scanner or
some other peripheral).
It’s that same parallel port which
you can use to control external
“things”. It’s especially easy if those
things only need to be turned on and
off.
You’ve probably seen parallel port
interfaces in the past which have used
perhaps half a dozen chips and scads
of other components. This one uses a
tad less – zero ICs and less than ten
other components per “channel”.
Normally, to talk to a printer the
computer sends various pins in its
parallel port high or low at breakneck
speed. The various combinations of
highs and lows are interpreted by
the printer to place ink at a certain
position on the page.
In this simple interface, we also
send various pins high or low – in
fact, eight pins (D0-D7). But there’s no
combination of pins to worry about.
If any of those pins go high, a relay
associated with it closes. If the pin is
low, the relay opens.
With eight output pins, we can
control up to eight relays. All control
circuits are the same, so our circuit
The project is capable of switching eight different devices, with the two larger relays (right end of PC board) being mains
rated. The cable underneath which connects to your PC’s parallel port must be a “straight through” D-25 male to D-25
female type, not a crossover cable often used with 25-pin serial ports.
32 Silicon Chip
diagram (Fig.1) shows only one (there
are seven more just the same on the
PC board).
When the output pin in the parallel
port is sent high by the software, it
lights a LED inside an opto-isolator.
(The opto-isolator is used to ensure
complete isolation between the circuit
and your computer). A phototransistor
inside the opto-isolator is then turned
on, providing bias to another (external) transistor.
When this transistor turns on, it
energises the relay in its collector
circuit. The relay pulls in, switching
its contacts over. The relay is a double
pole, double throw type (DPDT) so
your options for controlling external
devices are many.
Across the relay coil is a diode,
which prevents large induced voltage
spikes (from the collapsing relay coil
magnetic field) damaging or destroying Q1. There is also a LED/resistor
combination which gives a visual
indication that the relay is energised.
And that’s all there is to the control
circuit. There are seven more identical
circuits packed onto the PC board with
the relay outputs all connected to onboard terminal blocks located around
the edge of the board.
Actually, they’re not quite identical. Two of the relays (D and E) are
mains-rated so can be used to switch
240VAC – if you know what you’re
doing, of course.
The tracks on the PC board under
these relays are also significantly
wider, with wider spacings to provide
mains isolation. But please, if you’re
going to switch mains voltages be very,
very careful.
For convenience, a 12V regulated
supply on board is included, consisting of a bridge rectifier, an electrolytic
capacitor and a 12V positive regulator.
This supply will operate from about
12-18V AC or 14-18V DC. DC polarity
doesn’t matter – the bridge rectifier
automatically takes care of that.
Construction
First check your PC board for any
obvious defects. This is rare these
days but occasionally there are boards
which have tracks missing due to
Fig.1: the circuit consists of eight nearidentical sections plus a regulated
12V supply to drive them all.
SEPTEMBER 2000 33
Use the PC board pattern (fig.3, above) to check your board
etching before starting construction, using the component
overlay (fig.2, left). Note that all resistors are mounted “end
on” to save space.
over-etching, or tracks joined due to under-etching.
First components to mount are the resistors. All stand
“on end” – and your PC board looks a lot better if all in a
group are aligned the same way. Next solder in the eight
relay spike suppression diodes, noting which way around
they go. The same comment applies to the transistors and
LEDs.
Solder in the power supply components (again, all polarised) making sure the 3-terminal regulator is soldered
far enough off the PC board to allow its U-shaped heatsink
to be attached.
All of the relays are the next components to mount. Note
that the two larger relays, “D” and “E” are placed at one
end of the board, while all the rest mount along the edges.
Finally (at least as far as the top of the board is concerned)
mount the terminal blocks and the 25-pin “D” connector.
The D-25 connector has very close pin spacing, so take care
that you don’t bridge between its solder pads.
The eight opto-isolators mount on the solder side the
PC board, not far from the D-25 connector. These look like
a small, 4-pin IC with pin 1 marked with a dot. Holding
the board solder-side up with the D-25 connector on the
left, pin 1 of each opto-isolator is at the top left . Again,
pin spacing is pretty tight, so be careful when soldering.
That completes the construction side. Give your board
a double-check against the component overlay (Fig.2)
34 Silicon Chip
and make sure you don’t have any solder dags, bridges
or dry joints.
The software
To drive the relay board, software is required for your
PC. This tells the parallel port which pin(s) to take high or
low to get the desired result. Incidentally, the software will
work with any PC – even that pensioned-off XT clunker!
We present the software in two forms. First is an “.exe”
or executable file which can simply be run from DOS or
a DOS box under Windows. It simply places a graphic
representation on screen which shows which outputs are
high and low. When you press any of the appropriate keys
(A to H) on the keyboard, the corresponding parallel port
output pin toggles high or low.
This is all very well as a demonstration and to prove
your relay board works properly but it is not entirely
practical nor useful. What we need is software which
can be incorporated into other programs so the ports can
be commanded high or low by events, times, actions or
other factors.
For this reason, we have also shown the Q-BASIC listing
from that .exe file. This can be used as is, or sections of it
can be added to existing or new software which actually
does something useful! Each of the sections of the program
are clearly identified so you can use as much or as little as
The complete project is mounted
inside a plastic case for safety. The
red terminal block, connected to
relays E and D, can handle mains – if
you are doing so, be careful!
Supplied PC boards will be silkscreened to make component
placement even easier.
you want. Alternatively, experienced
readers may wish to write their own
code to accomplish their specific
tasks.
DOS box under Windows. Fig.3 shows
the screen you should see. When you
press any of the keys A through H,
the corresponding LED should light
and you may hear the relay click
over. Touch the same key again and
the LED should go out and the relay
also drop out.
Check each relay/LED one-by-one,
on and off, to ensure they’re all working properly. If the LED works but you
cannot hear the relay pull in, check
with a multimeter across the relay
output: the relay may be working fine
but it is too soft to hear. Conversely, if
the relay works but the LED doesn’t,
it’s usually a sure sign that you have
mounted the LED back-to-front.
If neither work, check the voltage
between ground and the exposed
end of the appropriate 1kΩ resistor
near the D-25 socket. You should get
about 1.5V or so with the port high
and somewhat less with the port low.
If this is OK, check the voltage at
the base of its switching transistor. It
should switch between (almost) the
full supply voltage (say about 11V)
and close to zero volts, depending on
Checking it out
As we said, the executable file is
ideal for checking that the relay driver
board works as intended.
Connect your relay driver board into
the parallel port of your PC via a suitable 25-pin male to 25-pin female lead.
Note the cable must be wired
"straight through” – some cables have
crossovers, designed to connect two
serial ports together. These are not
suitable.
In fact, it may be that you don’t
even need a cable – the D-25 plug on
the PC board could plug directly into
the parallel port on some computers,
assuming there is room. (In our case
we did this but had to remove the
D-25 plug nuts as they stopped the
plug going right in).
Apply power to the board via the
two-way terminal block situated right
in the middle of the board. Unless
you’ve made any mistakes, nothing
at all should happen!
Now run Rly.exe from DOS or a
Fig.3: the screen from the relay.exe software which “drives” the relay interface
board. Here keys A, D and G have been pressed to toggle their corresponding
I/O ports high. This causes the corresponding relays on the interface board to
pull in. Pressing the same letters again will toggle them off again.
SEPTEMBER 2000 35
QBASIC LISTING – RLY.BAS
(This file and relay.exe are also downloadable from www.siliconchip.com.au)
SCREEN 12, 5
a=1
b=1
c=1
d=1
e=1
f=1
g=1
h=1
CLS
ppx = 1
OUT &H378 + 0, 0’clear port
OUT &H278 + 0, 0’clear port
’***************************************
’ SCREEN BORDER AND LEGEND
LINE (10, 10)-(630, 10)
LINE (13, 13)-(627, 13)
LINE (630, 470)-(630, 10)
LINE (627, 410)-(627, 13)
LINE (627, 410)-(13, 410)
LINE (627, 413)-(13, 413)
LINE (630, 470)-(10, 470)
LINE (10, 470)-(10, 10)
LINE (13, 410)-(13, 13)
LINE (627, 467)-(13, 467)
LINE (627, 467)-(627, 413)
LINE (13, 467)-(13, 413)
’***************************************
’ OATLEY LOGO
COLOR 9
LOCATE 3, 22: PRINT “ OATLEY ELECTRONICS”
LOCATE 25, 24: PRINT “C copyright Oatley Electronics”
CIRCLE (187, 390), 10, 1
COLOR 15
LINE (190, 50)-(404, 50), 4
LINE (210, 30)-(210, 70), 4
LINE (195, 35)-(225, 65), 4
LINE (225, 35)-(195, 65), 4
LINE (215, 38)-(205, 62), 4
LINE (205, 38)-(215, 62), 4
LINE (198, 55)-(222, 45), 4
LINE (198, 45)-(222, 55), 4
CIRCLE (210, 50), 7, 3
PAINT (210, 50), 4, 3
CIRCLE (210, 50), 7, 4
’****************************************
’ SCREEN TEXT SETUP
CIRCLE (35, 260), 7, 15
PAINT (35, 260), 4, 15
CIRCLE (35, 280), 7, 15
PAINT (35, 280), 2, 15
LOCATE 18, 8: PRINT “LO”
LOCATE 17, 8: PRINT “HI”
LOCATE 6, 31: PRINT “ PC PARALLEL PORT “
LOCATE 7, 31: PRINT “ RELAY INTERFACE “
LOCATE 12, 5: PRINT “RELAY A B C D E F G H “
LOCATE 10, 5: PRINT “I/O No.”
LOCATE 10, 16: PRINT “D 0 D 1 D 2 D 3 D 4 D 5 D 6 D 7 “
LOCATE 9, 5: PRINT “PIN No.”
LOCATE 9, 17: PRINT “2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 “
LOCATE 14, 5: PRINT “STATUS”
LOCATE 28, 27: PRINT “www.oatleyelectronics.com”
’****************************************
’ TABLE GRAPHIC
LINE (25, 120)-(611, 120), 15
LINE (25, 166)-(611, 166), 15
LINE (25, 200)-(611, 200), 15
LINE (25, 230)-(611, 230), 15
LINE (99, 120)-(99, 230), 15
36 Silicon Chip
LINE (25, 120)-(25, 230), 15
LINE (163, 120)-(163, 230), 15
LINE (227, 120)-(227, 230), 15
LINE (291, 120)-(291, 230), 15
LINE (355, 120)-(355, 230), 15
LINE (419, 120)-(419, 230), 15
LINE (483, 120)-(483, 230), 15
LINE (547, 120)-(547, 230), 15
LINE (611, 120)-(611, 230), 15
PAINT (160, 210), 2, 15
PAINT (224, 210), 2, 15
PAINT (288, 210), 2, 15
PAINT (352, 210), 2, 15
PAINT (416, 210), 2, 15
PAINT (480, 210), 2, 15
PAINT (544, 210), 2, 15
PAINT (608, 210), 2, 15
’****************************************
’ INPUT
ppp:
LINE (385, 275)-(405, 275) ‘input underscore
LOCATE 17, 23: INPUT “Enter LPT Number, 1 or 2 “; b$
IF b$ = “1” THEN LOCATE 19, 29: PRINT “Current output to LPT1”
IF b$ = “1” THEN ppx = &H378
IF b$ = “2” THEN LOCATE 19, 29: PRINT “Current output to LPT2”
IF b$ = “2” THEN ppx = &H278
LOCATE 17, 50: PRINT “ “
IF b$ > “2” THEN GOTO ppp
io:
COLOR 15
LINE (385, 275)-(405, 275) ‘input underscore
LOCATE 17, 31: PRINT “ “
LOCATE 21, 32: PRINT “Type ‘x’ to exit”;
LOCATE 22, 25: PRINT “All pins are set to L O on exit”
LOCATE 17, 22: INPUT “ Enter relay letter”; a$
’****************************************
’ ERROR CONTROL AND INPUT SELECT
’IF a$ = “A” THEN GOTO aset1
IF a$ = “B” THEN GOTO bset1
IF a$ = “C” THEN GOTO cset1
IF a$ = “D” THEN GOTO dset1
IF a$ = “E” THEN GOTO eset1
IF a$ = “F” THEN GOTO fset1
IF a$ = “G” THEN GOTO gset1
IF a$ = “H” THEN GOTO hset1
IF a$ = “X” THEN CLS
IF a$ = “X” THEN OUT ppx + 0, 0 ‘clear port
IF a$ = “X” THEN END
IF a$ = “a” THEN GOTO aset1
IF a$ = “b” THEN GOTO bset1
IF a$ = “c” THEN GOTO cset1
IF a$ = “d” THEN GOTO dset1
IF a$ = “e” THEN GOTO eset1
IF a$ = “f” THEN GOTO fset1
IF a$ = “g” THEN GOTO gset1
IF a$ = “h” THEN GOTO hset1
IF a$ = “x” THEN CLS
IF a$ = “x” THEN OUT ppx + 0, 0 ‘clear port
IF a$ = “x” THEN END
SOUND 150, 5
GOTO io
aset1: IF a = 2 THEN GOTO aset2
suma = 1
a=2
PAINT (160, 210), 4, 15
GOTO sumall
aset2: suma = 0
a=1
PAINT (160, 210), 2, 15
GOTO sumall
bset1: IF b = 2 THEN GOTO bset2
sumb = 2
b=2
PAINT (224, 210), 4, 15
GOTO sumall
bset2: sumb = 0
b=1
PAINT (224, 210), 2, 15
GOTO sumall
cset1: IF c = 2 THEN GOTO cset2
sumc = 4
c=2
PAINT (288, 210), 4, 15
GOTO sumall
cset2: sumc = 0
c=1
PAINT (288, 210), 2, 15
GOTO sumall
dset1: IF d = 2 THEN GOTO dset2
sumd = 8
d=2
PAINT (352, 210), 4, 15
GOTO sumall
dset2: sumd = 0
d=1
PAINT (352, 210), 2, 15
GOTO sumall
eset1: IF e = 2 THEN GOTO eset2
sume = 16
e=2
PAINT (416, 210), 4, 15
GOTO sumall
eset2: sume = 0
e=1
PAINT (416, 210), 2, 15
GOTO sumall
fset1: IF f = 2 THEN GOTO fset2
sumf = 32
f=2
PAINT (480, 210), 4, 15
GOTO sumall
fset2: sumf = 0
f=1
PAINT (480, 210), 2, 15
GOTO sumall
gset1: IF g = 2 THEN GOTO gset2
sumg = 64
g=2
PAINT (544, 210), 4, 15
GOTO sumall
gset2: sumg = 0
g=1
PAINT (544, 210), 2, 15
GOTO sumall
hset1: IF h = 2 THEN GOTO hset2
SUMH = 128
h=2
PAINT (608, 210), 4, 15
GOTO sumall
hset2: SUMH = 0
h=1
PAINT (608, 210), 2, 15
GOTO sumall
sumall: SOUND 600, 2
OUT ppx + 0, suma + sumb + sumc + sumd
+ sume + sumf + sumg + SUMh
GOTO io
Parts List
1 PC board, 81 x 117mm, (Oatley Electronics)
6 DPDT mini relays, PC mounting, 12V coil
2 SPDT mains-rated relays, PC mounting, 12V coil
1 D-25 male connector, PC mounting
12 3-way screw terminal blocks, PC mounting
2 3-way screw terminal blocks, PC mounting,
different colour
1 2-way screw terminal block, PC mounting
1 D-25 male to D-25 female extension lead, straight
through connections,
suitable length
1 U-shaped heatsink to suit regulator
1 suitable insulated mounting box or plate (see text)
Semiconductors
8 PC814 Opto Couplers
8 C8050 NPN transistors
8 1N4004 silicon diodes
8 5mm LEDs, colours as desired
1 W04 bridge rectifier
1 7812 12V positive regulator
Capacitors
1 100µF 35VW PC-mounting electrolytic
Resistors (0.25W, 5%)
8 100kΩ
16 2.2kΩ
8 1kΩ
whether the parallel port is high or low.
The voltage at the collector of the transistor should be
the inverse – when the base is high, it should be close to
zero (anything less than 1V or so is OK); when the base is
low, it should be close to the full supply voltage
Safety first!
No particular case has been specified for this project;
indeed the photo-graphs show the PC board mounted just
on the plastic lid of a disposals case, without the case! (It
also came from Oatley Electronics, by the way).
Regardless of whether or not you plan to switch mains
voltages with this project, it should be mounted in a fully
insulated (ie plastic/ABS) case because it CAN switch
mains voltages.
It is essential that the PC board tracks not be exposed
because it would be so easy to pick the PC board up and
make contact with these tracks – and the tracks under the
mains-rated relays could be bitey!
SC
Where do you get it?
This project design and the PC board are copyright (C)
Oatley Electronics Pty Ltd. They have available a kit of
parts which includes the PC board and all on-board
components for $40.00. The cable sells for $8.00.
Freight is extra – $6.60
Contact Oatley Electronics at PO Box 89 Oatley, NSW
2223, Phone (02)9584 3563, Fax (02) 9584 3561,
email sales<at>oatleyelectronics.com.au,
website www.oatleyelectronics.com.au
SEPTEMBER 2000 37
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
The repair that didn’t make sense
It’s the ultimate frustration; the fault has been
fixed but the reason for it remains a mystery. Or
has it really been fixed? And then there was the
classic customer diagnosis: “it’s only the on-off
switch”. If only it had been and if only I had a
dollar for every time I’ve heard that word “only”.
A 1990 Philips Matchline 28 DC2070/20R was brought in by a Mr
Holt, who complained that it had no
picture. As it turned out, this Belgian-built D-16 chassis uses an ITT
digital chipset. After I had removed
the back with a TC10 anti-tamper
38 Silicon Chip
screwdriver, I found I had to connect
external loudspeakers as none was
fitted internally.
There was no picture or display
but turning up the screen (G2) control
on the horizontal output transformer
produced a fully scanned raster. The
sound was OK and I could change the
channel and vary the volume on the
local control panel.
Unfortunately, Mr Holt had not
brought in the remote control or the
instruction booklet, but using an
RC5903 remote from a Philips G110
established that all functions were
working except (significantly) there
was no contrast control. Also, switch
ing to AV mode brought the width in
and made the raster brighter.
However, there was still no sign of a
picture. I checked all the voltage rails
and all were correct. I checked the I2C
digital bus and found activity on both
the SDA (Serial Data) and SCL (Serial
Clock) rails.
I was beginning to suspect that the
problem was on the Digital Video
Panel (DVP), designated “D”. I had a
poor photocopied manual for the D16
AG2 chassis but it didn’t accurately
represent this model. There were no
LED flashing error codes on the front
panel.
I traced the video as far as the PIP
panel “H” and the DVP panel “D”. I
also checked the CRT panel “E” to
find that there was no signal, so it had
to be one or more of the six 40-pin
microprocessor ICs on the DVP.
Unfortunately, Philips do not regard
this module as a serviceable item and
it is only available as an expensive
exchange. However, I felt that I could
fix the module, even without a circuit
(me and my ego!). First, I established
that there was 5V available all over
the module and I checked all the coils.
Next I checked the two crystals with
an oscilloscope. I’m not exactly sure
what happened here but while I was
checking one of these circuits, the
probe I was using slipped and the set
died completely.
I had to start again from scratch
but it didn’t take long to find that the
horizontal output transistor TR7455
(BU508AF) was short circuit because
of my carelessness. Unfortunately, I
had just run out of these transistors
and had to put in an order for more.
While I was waiting, I decided to
remove all six micropro
cessor ICs
from the double-sided DVP module
and fit 40-pin IC sockets in their place
– a saga in itself. I then reinstalled
the ICs in the sockets, my reasoning
being that this would make it easier
to troubleshoot the module later on if
this was where the fault lay. Eventually, the replacement TR7455 transistor
arrived and I fitted that as well.
This time I had 141V on the collector of TR7455 but the set was still
dead and there was no horizontal
drive. Furthermore, the Standby LED
was flashing, which is error 8 in the
service manual and indicates a “+5V,
digiboard, POR2” fault. (As far as I can
determine, POR2 means “power on
reset” and this signal is derived from
the power supply and fed to the operation control panel microprocessor
7655 along the A/F 40 line).
But despite all this fancy rhetoric,
the actual fault turned out to be no
5.25V out of N-channel FET 7308
(IRF520F1). There was 15V on its
drain but virtually nothing on its gate
or source, either in STANDBY or ON
mode. I checked associated transistors
7309 and 7311 for shorts and made
Items Covered This Month
• Philips Matchline 28 DC2070/20R
TV Set.
• Philips 20GR102S/75B TV Set.
• NEC Model N6361 63cm TV Set.
sure they were both switched off but
nothing was going to make FET 7308
work.
I am never one hundred percent
sure when testing FETs with an ohmmeter that I am really proving very
much, so I wasn’t sure of its status.
I measured the 5.25V rail to find its
impedance to be very low – only a
few ohms, in fact. I then connected
an external power supply on to find
it drew nearly 1.9A!
I decided to replace the FET but
didn’t have an IRF520F1 (100V 9.2A
60W) in stock. However, I did manage to obtain an IRF530 (100V 14A
88W) but this isn’t an insulated type.
Nevertheless, by adding a mica washer and insulating bush, I finally managed to install this as a replacement.
This restored the 5.25V rail but the set
was still dead with the Standby LED
still indicating error code 8.
I went back to the Digital Video
Board module and pulled it out to
check it. I should add that this module, like the others, is not hard to
install but removing it is an entirely
different story. Philips, in their wisdom, have fitted small plastic clips
on the edge of the plugs, to make sure
that once inserted the modules can’t
fall out. The only way to release them
is to use a long thin screwdriver to
bend them back. Unfortunately, the
clips can’t be seen with the modules
in position, so it is necessary to probe
around until you can feel them.
Anyway, there are six 40-pin ICs on
this module and I had assumed that
all of them were fitted the same way
round. As it turns out, the deflection
microprocessor IC7251 (DPU2553)
is fitted in the opposite direction to
the others and, of course, muggins
hadn’t noticed. Praying very hard that
I hadn’t destroyed this expensive IC, I
gingerly refitted it the correct way and
refitted the module in the set.
This time, the Gods were smiling.
Not only did the set fire up smoothly
but, believe it or not, there was now
a picture! I really didn’t deserve such
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SEPTEMBER 2000 39
good luck because all I had done was
replace one horizontal output transistor and one 5V switching FET which
I had carelessly blown up myself.
So how had I fixed the no picture
problem?
I really don’t know. Perhaps I haven’t – perhaps it’s an intermittent
fault condition which will resurface
as soon as it goes back to Mr Holt.
On the other hand, it’s possible that I
fixed a bad solder joint in the process
of resocketing all those ICs.
Worse for wear
Mr Percy’s 9-year old Philips
20GR102S/75B was pretty well clapp
ed out. Not only did it look as though
it had never been turned off, it was
also pretty grubby from the kid’s
sticky fingers – not to mention the
nicotine stains inside and out.
Anyway, Mr Percy knew all about
it (cough). “Listen mate”, he said,
“it just needs a new on/off switch.
What’ll it cost?” (cough). Well aware
of this presumptuous statement and
the connotations it held, I innocently
asked how he had worked this out.
“Well mate, it’s like this” – (cough) – “I
have to push it on about six or seven
times before it comes on” (cough,
cough).
Of course, naturally, the switch
40 Silicon Chip
must be the problem. I mean, after the
fuse, the picture tube and a few dozen
other components, what else is there?
I mumbled noncommittally that I
would have a look and let him know.
Naturally, when I tried it, it came on
straight away and stayed on. I did this
six times and six times it worked perfectly (perhaps I should have done it
seven times). The only fault I noticed
was that the volume down pushbutton
wasn’t working but if the menu was
accessed it could be turned down with
the other controls (he was well aware
of this but it didn’t worry him).
I removed the back and examined
the motherboard. This wasn’t easy
because of the dirt, dust and nicotine
– plus some salt-air corrosion. However, the one thing that did strike me
was how long this set had performed
without breaking down – suspect
joints were everywhere and it looked
as though no work had been done on
it since new nine years ago.
I guess, this supports the old adage
that a car that’s only used by a little
old lady to go to church on Sundays
can be a bigger bomb than a used taxi!
It was pretty clear that the on/off
switch was perfectly OK – it operated
decisively with no sparks or faulty
joints. I phoned Mr Percy with news
of my findings. “Are you sure mate?”,
he asked. What could I say? It worked
for me. Disbelieving, he agreed to let
me rework the suspect joints and
after running the set for three days
he picked it up.
Two days later he phoned again
and started to get stuck into me.
Apparently, it was OK on the first
day but it took six activations of
the on/off switch on the second
day. I was caught in an invidious
position. I calmed him down
and persuaded him to return
the set.
As soon as it arrived,
I plugged it in and
switched it on. It
came on straight
away. I switched
it off and on another eight times
while he was there
and it all worked
perfectly. I suggested
he check his power
point and he suggested I
recheck the switch. In the
end, we compromised by
agreeing he had an intermit-
tent start-up problem – though that
was a rather too wordy for him.
From my perspective, I had already
resoldered the suspect joints, so I
concentrated on the start-up supply
to the horizon
tal drive. I replaced
L5524 (a 1mH coil) and C2523 (6.8µF)
with a 10µF capacitor and let the set
soak test.
However, I was really stumbling
around in the dark. In retrospect, I
shouldn’t have gone through that
resoldering procedure first – I should
have waited until the fault showed
and then made a deduction.
Anyway, as luck would have it,
eight days later the set wouldn’t
come on one morning. I immediately
checked the 95V rail to find that it
was virtually non-existent (about
1.5V). From experience, this told me
where the problem lay. The crowbar
protection circuit based on SCR 6641
had been activated.
I now knew what to do. With a
voltmeter on the 95V rail, I turned
up VR3625 and checked the point at
which the SCR fired, which turned
out to be 97V – only 2V above its
operat
ing point and despite zener
diodes ZD6638, ZD6639 and ZD6640
adding up to 102V! Anyway, I changed
ZD6640 (30V) for a 33V zener and also
sprayed some electrical cleaner on the
remaining zeners.
This done, I repeated the above
procedure and found that the SCR
was now striking at over 100V. I then
reset VR3625 to give a supply rail of
just under 95V.
I felt sure that this would fix the
problem but, of course, there could
still be (unlikely) a fault generated
along the OVP (Overvoltage Protection Line). On earlier sets, this came
only from pin 9 of the horizontal
output transformer. Later sets had an
extra transistor (7100) on the 9V rail
which checks for excessive current
(>400mA) drawn by the sound output
stage I7020.
I left the set, switching it on and
off randomly for another two weeks,
despite Mr Percy phoning every day
– “surely you’ve fixed the switch
(cough) by now, mate?” I would have
preferred an even longer time to make
sure because what ever happens, I
don’t think he will come back – he
obviously thinks I know “nuffink”!
The local club
Our local RSL Club has a lot of
TV sets – enough, one would have
thought, to employ a full-time technician or at least for them to have a
service contract.
Tom Purvis, who is the maintenance manager, approached me when
I was sipping the cool amber fluid one
evening there, unwinding from a hot
day with the iron. He mentioned that
he had three 63cm NEC sets that had
died on him and asked if I would have
a look at them. I suggested he remind
me in the morning at work and give
me all the details then, as I probably
wouldn’t remember them overnight.
So, next morning, Tom brought in
the three NECs. It turned out that they
were all model N6361s and all were
very grubby and nicotine stained.
The N6361 is a 63cm 9-year old set,
built in Japan, with a PWC-3517
PC board. This was a very popular
chassis, with variants used in a large
number of NEC sets. It is also a very
reliable model.
The reason the first set was dead
was because the horizon
tal output
transistor, Q502 2SD1432, was short
circuit. Fortu
nately, I had one in
stock and quickly fitted it in. Before
switching on, I resoldered the inevitable suspect joints on the diodes and
anywhere else that looked suspicious.
When I fired it up, the EHT and sound
were just coming on when the set
died again.
Naturally, I was somewhat annoyed
when I realised that I had just despatched another expensive transistor
to the bin. The replacement 2SD1432
had gone short circuit, which meant
that I now had to find the real reason
for the fault.
I fitted a 60W dummy load and
checked that the +130V HT rail was
OK. I also checked the timing capacitors, out of circuit, for capacitance,
while the shorted turns tester gave
the horizontal output transformer the
thumbs up.
Well, unless anything was lying to
me, this shouldn’t have happened.
I didn’t have any more 2SD1432s
in stock but I did have a BU508AF,
which I duly fitted.
This time, the picture and sound
came on but there were a few slight
effects – the set was buzzing/whistling
as though it was under some sort of
strain. The verticals looked ragged,
with intermittent line tearing, and the
picture was blooming. The 130V was
still spot on, as measured at TP41 – I
even put the oscilloscope on the horizontal drive output (pin 6) of IC701
(M51390ASP) and found nice clean
pulses all the way to Q50Z’s collector.
Next, I shorted TP2001 to chassis to
see if the protector circuit was playing
up. Everything looked hunky-dory
but the set behaved as though it was
mortally sick. I was fortunate in that
I also had one of these models as a
stock set, so I decided to “borrow”
some parts out of it. I swapped the
horizontal output transformer and
large chunks of power supply but
nothing made any difference. And
the effect was exactly the same with
all three sets.
I had ordered some 2SD1432s but
then I discovered that the 2SD1433
was a more rugged transistor and was
used in later model NEC sets. However, the clincher was that, surprisingly,
its price was lower, so I asked that
these be supplied instead. When they
came in, I fitted one immediately. It
blew again in a second or so!
That was it – I was out of ideas
completely and there were too many
contradictions. By now, I felt that the
only way to make sense of all this was
to go to the source of all knowledge –
NEC Technical Support. Their know
ledgeable engineer was also surprised
and just as he was about to say he
couldn’t help, he said he would ask
one of the technicians if he had any
ideas. A few minutes later, he came
back on the line and said, “Look, this
set is pretty reliable and NEC has had
very few problems with it, but they
have found a few weird faults attributable to C501 – have a look at that”.
That was just what I wanted – thank
you, NEC. C501 is an electro on the
12V supply to pin 8 of IC701, the
jungle IC M531390ASP. Depending
on which model is involved, its value
varies from 47µF to 470µF. I replaced
the capacitor and fitted another
2SD1433 in one of the sets and stood
back. It fired up perfectly – all the
symptoms had disappeared and the
picture was perfect.
So, why hadn’t I picked this up?
The horizontal drive waveform out of
IC701 should have shown the problem
but I hadn’t noticed anything untoward – the waveform had looked very
clean. But it is possible that, at switch
on, there could be a very short sharp
spike or change of frequency which
one wouldn’t notice – after all, the
trigger and sync separator stages in
the CRO (cheapish) can mask a lot of
changes. Perhaps it would have been
better if I had looked at it on, say, the x
2ms range instead of the x 20µs range,
at higher volts per division.
Anyway, the C501 capacitors were
leaky in all three sets and replacing
them fixed them all – so, good one,
SC
NEC!
SEPTEMBER 2000 41
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
QuickLink Hand-held Scanner:
don't type it, swipe it!
Hands up if you’ve ever had to type
lots of text into your PC from “hard
copy”. You’re going to love QuickLink!
It’s not much bigger than a high-lighter. But this battery-operated “pen”
scans printed text – up to 1000 pages of
it – and stores it (2MB inbuilt memory),
ready for transfer to your PC or PDA,
or even a text-enabled cellular phone.
There is no need to be connected
to the host – QuickLink is completely
portable and transfers of data are made
when convenient.
Operating under
Windows 95/98 or NT,
the QuickLink pen
transfers data via the
PC’s serial port, USB or
now even an optional
IRDA link directly into
any Windows-based application, eg Microsoft
Word for text or Excel for data lists.
QuickLink is said to be 97% accurate
in scanning printed text, and handles
bold, italic and regular faces from 6
to 22 point.
Just a few of the suggested uses of
QuickLink include lawyers scanning
precedents, executives collecting information and notes, students making
precis of texts, doctors scanning lab
reports and patient data, office workers
scanning the mail to build a company
mailing list – in fact, anyone who
needs to convert what
they read into any type
of computer file.
Operating software
and a tutorial on CDROM are supplied along
with a comprehensive
manual and carry case.
QuickLink is available
through most computer specialists and
many department stores.
Contact:
Wizcom Technologies Australia Pty Ltd
Lvl 6, 420 St Kilda Rd, Melbourne Vic 3004
Phone:
1800 09 2000
Fax:
(03) 9221 8338
Email:
info<at>wizcom.com.au
Website: www.wizcom.com.au
Now listen here... or there or there or...
Y
ou may recall the rather clever ADEM
Compac security system which we
featured in the July issue. Now there’s
a mini – no, micro – version which in some
ways is even smarter!
First, a quick recap. The main claim
to fame of the system was that when an
intrusion was detected, it called a pre-determined telephone number, reported the
intrusion and then turned on a sensitive
microphone so you could listen in, just to
make sure it was a fair dinkum break-in.
4D Systems, who make the ADEM, told
us our story created a lot of interest. But
while they were telling us this, they also
told us about a new product they’d been
working on, the microADEM.
Here’s a scenario. The phone rings at two in the morning: it’s
the security company telling you the office or shop alarm has
gone off. Instead of getting dressed, driving down and walking
into who-knows-what, you simply dial, say, the office fax line,
punch in a code on your phone keypad and listen in. It’s as
quite as a graveyard – you call the security company back, tell
them it’s a false alarm . . . and go back to sleep! For anyone
on a security company call-out list, what we’ve just described
42 Silicon Chip
is pure heaven!
Perhaps, though, it wasn’t as quite as
a graveyard. Perhaps you could hear the
sound of breaking glass, of muffled voices
who shouldn’t be there. You ring 000 and
the boys in blue respond, surprising your
“visitors” in the act.
This is just one application for the
microADEM. The manufacturers believe
it will also find a ready market amongst
surveillance professionals (it’s dramatically
cheaper than any comparable device on the
market) and even business owners who want
to ensure that when they’re not there, the
things that should be happening are and
things that shouldn’t be happening aren’t.
Talk about shades of James Bond!
In a nutshell, it contains the listening side of the ADEM alarm
but with no dialling or intruder detection circuitry. Once again, the
microADEM is connected to the ’phone line but of course it can’t
dial out (unless it has an optional dialling unit attached which can
be triggered by virtually any alarm system, PIR detector, etc ).
The microADEM is tiny – just 55 x 60 x 22mm and is cleverly
disguised as a dual telephone jack wall box. That’s probably because
it is a dual telephone jack wall box!
On medication?
Remember the pill…
Two input digital
thermometer
Dick Smith Electronics has released
an electronic pill box which not only
holds the pills, it reminds users when
to take them.
Equipped with a built-in clock,
the battery-operated Pill Box sounds
an extra loud beep whenever programmed to do so. It is ideal for people
on a multiple-pill per day regime.
The Electronic Pill Box is available from all Dick Smith Electronics
stores, DSE
PowerHouse
stores or the
DSE mail
order service.
Jaycar Electronics has released an
industrial quality,
two-input digital
thermometer with
a large, easy to read
LCD display and
wide temperature
range. (Jaycar cat
QM-1600)
The unit is supplied with two detachable K-type
thermocouples, is
simple to use and
will measure temperatures in the range
–50°C to 1,300°C.
Front panel buttons select the input
for display or the meter can be set to
show the input temperature differential. The meter has a “HOLD” feature
that keeps the current temperature and
stops further measurement while the
“MAX” function will display and hold
the highest temperature measured.
Temperature can be measured in °C
or °F and the resolution is switchable
between 1° and 0.1°. The sampling
rate is 2.5 time per second.
Contact:
Dick Smith Electronics
(all stores)
Phone: (02) 9937 3200
Fax:
(02) 9805 1159
Website: www.dse.com.au
TOROIDAL TRANSFORMERS
FOR SILICON CHIP AMPLIFIERS
15W CLASS A AMPLIFIER
$35.45
80VA for single channel monoblock
240:2x21V/1.9A
160VA for amplifier as published
240:2x21V/3.8A
160VA low flux design + flux band
240:2x21V/3.8A
160VA low flux design + flux band
240:2x42Vct/1.9A
$42.50
$65.90
$74.40
ULTRA LOW THD 100W AMPLIFIER
160VA for single channel monoblock
240:2x35V/2.25A + 2x50V/0.1A
300VA for dual channel amplifier
240:2x35V/4.5A + 2x50V/0.1A
$50.70
$60.45
500W MONO AMPLIFIER, as published
800VA
$134.50
240:2x57V/7A
All prices include WST. Freight extra.
HARBUCH ELECTRONICS PTY LTD
Ph 02 9476 5854 Fx 02 9476 3231
Contact:
Jaycar Electronics
PO Box 185
Concord NSW 2137
Phone: (02) 9743 5222
Fax:
(02) 9743 2066
Email:
techstore<at>jaycar.com.au
Website: www.jaycar.com.au
The only difference between this and a
the microADEM double adaptor and then plug your
real box (apart from the electronics inside)
phone back in. It’s as simple as that!
is the 7mm hole in the box top. Under this
About the only restriction on location is where
is a sensitive electret microphone which is
existing equipment (eg, machinery, air conditioners,
more than capable of picking up even quite
etc) could muffle or mask the sounds you really
soft sounds.
want to listen in to.
The idea of the microADEM is for remote
We tried the microADEM out via a mobile
audio surveillance. Anywhere there is a phone
phone outside the building. Even with computers
line, you can plug the microADEM in and listen
operating, air conditioning in the background and
in. What’s more, this is completely covert –
traffic noise outside, a normal-level conversation
no-one on the premises has any idea that it’s
between two people inside was, as they say in the
happening. It’s the stuff some epic Hollywood Inside the microADEM from 4D
classics, “clear as crystal”.
scripts could be based on!
Just to prove the point, the two speakers then
Systems.
As we hinted at in the scenario, the microADtalked at not much more than a whisper. While
EM is operated by punching codes from your telephone keypad. You
microADEM couldn’t detect every word, the gist of the conversation
can not only remotely listen in, you can change your PIN code remotely,
was easily understood.
change the way the microADEM answers the phone and change various
At the time of going to press, Austel approval for the microADEM
other operating parameters. The instructions included are very simple
was still pending. 4D Systems believed that this would be ready beto understand.
fore this issue of the
Contact:
Of course, the phone you use can be either fixed or mobile, just as
magazine came out.
4D Systems Pty Ltd
long as it has a standard tone keypad (which covers probably 99% of
The microADEM
3-5 Station Rd, Auburn NSW 2144
phones in use today).
sells for $79 (inPhone: (02) 9649 5065
Installation is extremely simple – stick the microADEM to a wall
cluding GST but not
Fax:
(02) 0649 4324
near your existing phone socket using the double-sided adhesive foam
including pack &
e-mail
sales<at>4dsystems.com.au
tabs supplied, pull your phone plug from the phone socket, plug in
post).
SEPTEMBER 2000 43
Rane updates mic/line mixer
Rane, distributed in Australia by Jands Electronics,
has upgraded its popular MLM 82 mic/line mixer with
a new design and features originating from dealers
and customers.
Each of the MLM 82a’s four mic/line inputs are
now assignable to the first, second or both outputs,
and a new independent mono switch has been added
for each stereo line input. Stereo line gain range has
been increased to +12 dB, and removable knobs can
now be replaced with individual level control security
hole plugs.
Like its predecessor, the 1RU mixer provides four
balanced studio grade mic/line XLR inputs with phantom power and four balanced stereo TRS inputs. Both
outputs can be set to line or mic level.
The 82a model is extremely flexible for stereo and/or
mono applications
in studios, hotels,
Contact:
churches, schools,
Jands Electronics Pty Ltd
conference rooms
Phone: (02) 9582 0909
and rental sound
Fax:
(02) 9582 0999
systems.
Email:
pgrisard<at>jands.com.au
New portable device
programmer
The EE Tools ChipMax from Emona Instruments is a cost effective,
high quality industrial-grade device
programmer with a standard parallel
interface port that is suitable for most
programming needs.
The state-of-the-art hardware architecture with an on-board FPGA enables ChipMax to support high density
EPROMs, EEPROMs, Flash, PLDs, and
Micro controllers in DIP (Dual-In-Line
Package) without adapters. A builtin hardware current limiting circuit
provides protection against improper
device insertion, defective chips and
(or) operation errors.
A standard 40-pin ZIF socket allows ChipMax software to support
future devices without changing the
hardware circuit. This socket accepts
both 300 mil and 600 mil DIP devices
up to 40 pins.
ChipMax is supplied with flexible
and easy to use menu-driven software.
Contact:
Emona Instruments
Phone: (02) 9519-3933
Fax:
(02) 9550-1378
E-mail: testinst<at>emona.com.au
44 Silicon Chip
Audax PC Series
Loudspeaker Drivers
The PC (Polymer Composite) series
of speaker drivers recently introduced
by Audax replaces the steel pressed
metal series drivers, providing lower
driver cost and eliminating magnetic
leakage paths in the frame.
The highest grade of pure polymer
composite has been chosen for the
chassis, combining strength, excellent damping qualities and environmental stability
(humidity, temperature and shock). The new composite
has been subjected to the brutal requirements of the
automotive industry and passed all their standards.
A new and popular model in this new range is the
HP170G0 bass/midrange driver. This features a treated
paper cone with a
highly damped synContact:
thetic rubber surME Technologies
round. It is suited to
PO Box 50, Dyers Crossing,
2 way compact bookNSW 2429
shelf or tower-style
Phone: 02 6550 2254
floor standing speakFax:
02 6550 2341
er systems for hifi or
Email:
info<at>me-au.com
home theatre designs.
Website: www.me-au.com
New Wollongong Store for Jaycar
Jaycar Electronics has opened
its latest store in Wollongong, employing up to five local staff in a
combination of full time and casual
positions.
Jaycar brings to Wollongong
many years of retail experience and
a proven product range covering
alarm systems, test equipment, video
surveillance, car audio, electrical
& electronic tools, wire, cable and
accessories. Jaycar is also known
for its extensive range of electronic
hobbyist kits.
Jaycar’s new store is located at 354
Keira St. Wollongong and is open
from 9:00am to 5:30pm, 6 days per
week.
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
Order Form/Tax Invoice
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ABN 49 003 205 490
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*ZOOM EFI TECH SPECIAL
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* Special offer applies while stocks last.
09-00
readout
* Digital
plus bargraph
shows
* Display
air-fuel ratio
to install
* Easy
in a vehicle
auto* Display
dims at night
Monitor engine air-fuel ratios with this:
Mixture Display
Monitor the air-fuel ratio of your car’s engine
in real-time with this Fuel Mixture Display. It
boasts both digital and bargraph displays and
can be used as a tuning aid, or when making
engine modifications or just to indicate when
there are problems.
Pt.1: By JOHN CLARKE
Your car engine’s air-fuel ratio has
a considerable bearing on fuel consumption and air pollution. For this
reason, modern cars use an exhaust
gas oxygen (EGO) sensor mounted in
the exhaust system to continuously
monitor air-fuel ratios and generate
corresponding output voltages. This
information is then fed to the engine
management computer (EMC) which
continuously adjusts the mixture to
provide optimum power and econ54 Silicon Chip
omy, consistent with low exhaust
emissions.
As can be imagined, if the EGO
sensor is not functioning correctly,
engine performance suffers and
this can lead to very high fuel bills.
Conversely, a properly functioning
sensor ensures good engine performance and helps keep fuel costs
down – something that’s even more
important than ever given the recent
petrol price hikes.
A system that’s in good nick also
minimises air pollution. In modern
cars, the combustion products from
the engine are made safe by a catalytic converter which is mounted
in the exhaust system. Combustion
byproducts such as carbon monoxide
(CO) are converted to carbon dioxide
(CO2), unburnt hydrocarbons to CO2
and water (H2O) and nitrous oxide
(NO) to nitrogen (N2) under the action
of the catalysts within the converter.
However, this only works properly if the air-fuel ratio is held within
certain limits. And that in turn is
dependent on the EGO sensor. An
EGO sensor, by the way, does not last
indefinitely. Depending on the car, it’s
usually a good idea to replace it every
50,000 to 80,000km.
Stoichiometric ratio
A catalytic converter works best
when the air-fuel ratio is such that
there is just sufficient oxygen to give
complete combustion. This is called
the “stoichiometric” ratio. It varies
according to the fuel used but is generally 14.7:1 for unleaded petrol; ie,
the air mass must be 14.7 times the
fuel mass.
For propane (C3H8), the stoichiometric ratio is a little higher at 15.6
and so more air is required compared
to unleaded petrol to ensure complete
combustion.
Note that the EGO sensor does not
measure the air-fuel ratio directly.
Instead, it monitors the resultant oxygen (O2) content after combustion
and provides a voltage output to in
dicate whether the mixture is lean,
stoichiometric or rich.
Fuel Mixture Display
The concept behind the SILICON
CHIP Fuel Mixture Display is quite
simple – it monitors the EGO output
signal and, after processing, displays
the results on a bargraph and on a digital readout. This digital readout can
be calibrated to show the air-fuel ratio
for either unleaded petrol or propane.
For petrol, the unit is calibrated to
display air-fuel ratios ranging from
11.8:1 (rich) to 20.6:1 lean, with the
stoichiometric point at 14.7. The
corresponding range for propane is
from 12.7:1 to 21.5:1, with the stoichiometric point at 15.6.
Note, however, that the fuel-air ratio doesn’t remain static while you are
driving. Instead, it fluctuates in a rapid rich-lean-rich-lean sequence as the
engine management computer (EMC)
responds to the EGO sensor’s output.
Put your foot down for acceleration
and you will immediately see that the
mixture is enriched to provide more
power. Conversely, under a trailing
throttle, the air-fuel ratio “leans off”
and again this will immediately be
indicated on the displays.
Under a constant throttle, the air-fuel ratio should quickly settle at a fixed
value. This point is leaner than the
stoichiometric point, to ensure that
emissions are kept low. It’s all made
possible by the ECU which continuously monitors the EGO output and
controls the fuel injectors to maintain
the desired ratio.
What sort of figures are we talking
about? Well, many late-model engines
operate with air-fuel ratios approaching 19.0:1 at constant throttle. As well
as relying on the EGO sensor, mixture
Main Features
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Suits vehicles with Zirconia EGO probes
Compact size
3-digit LED readout plus 7-LED bargraph display
Dot or bar mode option for bargraph
Air-fuel ratio matched for Bosch LSM11 (0258104002) EGO probe
Indicates air-fuel ratios from 11.8 to 20.6 for petrol
Indicates air-fuel ratios from 12.7 to 21.5 for propane/LPG
Fully lean and fully rich air-fuel indication
Bargraph display follows the non-linear response of the EGO sensor
13 indication levels in dot mode;, 7 levels in bar mode
Fast 220ms update time for bargraph; 440ms for 3-digit display
Automatic display dimming
0-1V display for setting up adjustments
Note: this device is not suitable for use on cars that run on leaded petrol.
If your car doesn’t already have an EGO sensor, you can fit one yourself
but the engine must run on unleaded fuel, propane or LPG in order to use
the Fuel Mixture Display continuously (leaded petrol poisons the sensor).
settings this lean are, in part, made
possible by the use of knock sensors.
These listen for engine knocking and
if it is detected, the ECU retards the
ignition timing until the knocking
ceases.
This allows many engines to run
just below the point of knocking, thus
significantly boosting fuel economy
while cutting emissions.
Basic features
As shown in the photos, the Fuel
Mixture Display is housed in a compact plastic case. Its size and presentation matches that of three previous car
projects – the Speed Alarm described
in November 1999, the Digital Voltmeter in February 2000 and the Digital
Tacho in April 2000.
But the similarities don’t end
there. As with those earlier designs,
this circuit is based on a PIC16F84
microcontroller. This has allowed us
to dramatically shrink the parts count
and also makes the unit incredibly
easy to build.
If you look at those earlier circuits,
you will notice that they are all quite
similar. Most of the hardware modifications involve the input sensor
circuitry. The big difference between
them lies in the software that’s programmed into the PIC chip.
Naturally, we’ve retained the automatic display brightness feature that
was built into the previous designs.
In bright light, the LED displays are
at maximum brilliance so that they
can be easily seen. However, as the
ambient light falls, the displays automatically dim so that they don’t
become distracting.
Another feature of the unit is that
it’s easy to install. There are just
three external connections – two for
power and the third to the existing
EGO sensor.
No EGO sensor?
If your car’s engine runs on leaded
petrol, it won’t have a factory-fitted
EGO sensor. The way around this is
to source a sensor from a wrecker
and install it in the exhaust manifold
yourself.
Note, however, that running leaded
petrol will soon poison the sensor. As
a result, this approach should only be
used for tuning purposes, with the
sensor then removed and the hole
plugged with a bolt of the same thread
for everyday running.
LED displays
OK, let’s see how we have arranged
the LED displays to match the output
from the EGO sensor. The first thing
to realise here is that the output from
the EGO sensor is far from linear.
Fig.1 shows the output voltage
curve from a Bosch zirconium oxide
EGO sensor, plotted against air-fuel
ratios for both unleaded petrol and
SEPTEMBER 2000 55
LED7 is alight for minimum sensor
output.
By contrast, the bar mode has
only seven threshold points. In this
mode, LED4 (the centre LED) covers
the central stoichiometric point for
sensor output voltages ranging from
340-650mV (region D). The remaining
six LEDs are then used for the rich and
lean portions of the display. As the
mixture becomes richer, LEDs3-1 progressively come on. Similarly, as the
mixture leans off, LEDs5-7 come on.
Note that LED4 is on all the time.
This makes the bar mode a little unconventional, since it starts from the
central LED. However, this approach
is perfectly logical.
The advantage of the LED bargraph,
in either dot or bar mode, is that it can
rapidly respond to signal variations
from the EGO sensor. This is handy
because the EGO sensor output can
fluctuate quite rapidly during normal
driving.
By contrast, the 3-digit readout is
set up so that it responds more slowly,
so that it can be read. In normal operation, it gives a direct readout of the
air-fuel ratio. However, ratios that are
less than 11.8:1 or greater than 20.6:1
for petrol are respectively shown as
“r” (for rich) or “L” (for lean).
Alternatively, the digital readout
can be set to show voltages ranging
from 0.00 through to 1.05V instead of
the air-fuel ratio and this is to allow
the unit to be calibrated. This is done
using two trimpots – one to set the
voltage range (span) and the second
to set the minimum voltage that can
be measured (offset).
How the circuit works
Fig.1 the above graph shows the output voltage curve from a Bosch
zirconium oxide EGO sensor, plotted against air-fuel ratios for both
unleaded petrol and propane. Also shown is the response of the bargraph
display as the EGO output varies, for both dot and bar modes.
propane. Also shown are the corresponding Lambda (λ) values which
are calculated by dividing the air-fuel
ratios by the stoichiometric value.
This means that a Lambda of 1 is at
the stoichiometric point.
Fig.1 also shows the corresponding
response of the LED bargraph display
as the EGO output varies, for both dot
and bar modes. First, the dot mode –
this has either one or two LEDs lit at
any time, giving 13 separate display
56 Silicon Chip
points. The stoichiometric point at
600mV is indicated by the central
indicator LED4, which lights over the
range indicated by “G” on the curve.
As the voltage climbs towards the
rich end, both LEDs 3 & 4 light, then
LED 3 lights on its own, then LEDs
2 & 3 together and so on until only
LED 1 is lit at the end of the range (ie,
maximum voltage).
A similar sequence of events occurs
as the mixture leans off, until only
Fig.2 shows the circuit for the Fuel
Mixture Display. IC1 is the PIC micro
controller which forms the basis of
the circuit. It accepts an input from
the EGO sensor via op amp IC2a and
drives the LED displays.
IC2a functions as an inverting comparator. As shown in Fig.2, the signal
from the EGO sensor is applied to its
pin 2 input via a filter circuit consisting of a 1MΩ resistor and a 0.1µF
capacitor. Note that the resistor is
made large to reduce transient loading
on the EGO sensor. In fact, the current
from the EGO sensor must be at less
than 1µA so that its output voltage
(and thus the engine performance)
isn’t affected.
In operation, IC2a compares the
SEPTEMBER 2000 57
Fig.2: the PIC microcontroller (IC1) processes the input signal from the EGO sensor (via IC2a) and drives the 7-segment LED
displays and the LED bargraph. Q6, D1, D2 & REF1 provide a voltage offset for pin 3 of op amp IC2a, while IC2b & LDR1
automatically vary the display brightness, so that they don’t appear too bright at night.
Fig.3: here are the assembly details for the two PC boards. Resistor R1 is
installed if you want the bargraph to operate in bar mode and is left out
of circuit for dot mode operation. Take care to ensure that you don’t get
the transistors mixed up.
sensor voltage at pin 2 with a DC voltage at its pin 3 input. This DC voltage
is derived by applying a pulse width
modulated (PWM) square-wave signal
from the RA3 output of IC1 to an RC
filter/divider circuit.
As a result, pin 1 of IC2a switches
low when ever the voltage on its pin 2
input is greater than the voltage on pin
3. This signal is then fed via a 3.3kΩ
limiting resistor to the RB0 input of
IC1. The resistor limits the current
flow from IC2a when its output swings
high to +12V, while internal clamp
diodes at RB0 limit the voltage on
this pin to 5.6V (ie, 0.6V above the
supply rail).
A-D converter
Among other things, IC1 performs
analog-to-digital (A/D) conversion.
This converts the signal on its RB0
input into a digital value which is
then used to drive the LED displays.
As mentioned above, the output at
58 Silicon Chip
RA3 produces a PWM signal and this
operates at 1953Hz with a wide-ranging duty cycle. A high output from
RA3 is at 5V while a low output is
at 0V. VR2, the 180kΩ resistor and
the 0.1µF capacitor filter this output
to produce a DC voltage, while the
100kΩ and 1kΩ resistors from pin
3 to ground form the bottom of the
voltage divider.
In practice, VR2 is set so that it
divides the RA3 output by 3.9.
This means that if the duty cycle is
50% (ie, a square wave) the average
at RA3 will be 50% of 5V or 2.5V.
As a result, the voltage at pin 3 will
be 2.5/3.9V, or 0.64V. This will vary
either up or down, according to the
duty cycle.
The A-D conversion is as follows:
initially, the RA3 output at pin 2 of
IC1 operates with a 50% duty cycle
and this sets the voltage at pin 3 of
IC2a to 0.64V. At the same time, an
8-bit register inside IC1 has its most
significant bit set high so that its value
is 10000000.
This 50% duty cycle signal is
produced at a frequency of 1953Hz
for about 8ms, after which the comparator output level (pin 1 of IC2a) is
monitored by the RB0 input. Pin 1 of
IC2a will be low if the sensor voltage
at pin 2 is above 0.64V and high if it
is less than this value.
If the sensor voltage is less than
0.64V, the pulse width modulation
(PWM) output at RA3 is reduced to a
25% duty cycle to produce an average
of 1.25V and thus 0.32V on pin 3 of
IC2a. The internal register is now set
to 01000000.
Conversely, if the sensor voltage is
above 0.64V, corresponding to a low
comparator output, the RA3 output
is increased to a 75% duty cycle to
provide an average of 3.75V. The
register is thus set to 11000000, with
the most significant bit indicating the
2.5V 50% duty cycle and the next bit
indicating the 1.25V 25% duty cycle.
Adding the two bits gives us the
3.75V (75%) value which, after division by 3.9, gives 0.96V on the pin 3
input of IC2a.
The comparator level is now
checked again after about 8ms. The
microcontroller then adds or subtracts
a 12.5% duty cycle value (0.625V at
RA3 or 0.16V at pin 3 of IC2a) and
this is then compared with the input
voltage again.
If the sensor voltage is higher than
the PWM waveform, the internal register is now set to X1100000 (where
X = 1 or 0 as determined by the first
operation). Conversely, if the sensor
voltage is lower than the PWM voltage, the register is set at X0100000.
This entire process is repeated
for eight cycles, the microcontroller
adding or subtracting progressively
smaller voltages to pin 3 of IC2a. At
each step, successively lower bits in
the register are set to either 1 or 0 to
obtain an 8-bit A-D conversion.
The A-D conversion has a resolution of 5mV (0.005V) at the least
significant bit. There are also 256
possible values for the 8-bit register, ranging from 00000000 (0) to
11111111 (255). However, in practice
we are limited to a range from about
19 to 231.
That’s because the software requires a certain amount of time to
process the results in IC1 and produce
the next waveform at the RA3 output.
As a result, the measurement range
is from about 95.5mV to 1.16V. However, by applying a slightly negative
offset voltage to the pin 3 input, we
can effectively cancel out the 95.5mV
minimum so that it can be set at 0V.
This then allows the comparator to
measure from 0V to 1.16V - 95.5mV;
ie from 0-1.06V.
Following the A/D conversion, the
8-bit register value is converted to the
value required for the display using
a lookup table. In practice, separate
tables are used for the air-fuel ratio
display and the two modes for the
bargraph. These lookup tables can be
easily modified if required.
Negative offset voltage
The negative offset voltage applied
to pin 3 of IC2a is derived using voltage
reference REF1, diodes D1 & D2 and
transistor Q6. Let’s see how this works.
In operation, Q6 is driven by the
RA4 output of IC1 which incidentally,
also drives switching transistor Q1
which controls the LED bargraph.
When RA4 is low, Q6 is off and so
capacitor C1 (10µF) charges to the
+12V supply via a 1kΩ resistor and
diode D1. Conversely, when RA4
subsequently goes high, Q6 turns on
and connects the positive terminal of
C1 to ground.
As a result, the negative terminal
of C1 goes to -12V and this charges
capacitor C2 via diode D2.
Table 1: Capacitor Codes
Value
IEC Code EIA Code
0.1µF 100n 104
15pF 15p 15
The display board (top) carries the three 7-segment LED displays, the bargraph
and the LDR. It plugs into the microcontroller board above, thus eliminating
wiring connections between the two.
Table 2: Resistor Colour Codes
No.
1
1
1
1
1
2
2
2
1
4
8
1
Value
1MΩ
180kΩ
100kΩ
12kΩ
10kΩ
3.3kΩ
1.8kΩ
1kΩ
1kΩ
680Ω
150Ω
10Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black green brown
brown grey yellow brown
brown black yellow brown
brown red orange brown
brown black orange brown
orange orange red brown
brown grey red brown
brown black red brown
brown black red brown
blue grey brown brown
brown green brown brown
brown black black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black yellow brown
brown grey black orange brown
brown black black orange brown
brown red black red brown
brown black black red brown
orange orange black brown brown
brown grey black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
blue grey black black brown
brown green black black brown
brown black black gold brown
SEPTEMBER 2000 59
resistor is present, then that input will
be pulled low.
The software reads the inputs to
determine whether they are high or
low and sets the display mode accordingly. It then resets RB1, RB3 & RB4 as
outputs so that data can be presented
to the LED displays.
Display dimming
These two photos show how the two boards are married together, with the pin
headers on the display board plugging directly into the 7-way sockets on the
microcontroller board – see also Fig.4.
This process is repeated at a rapid
rate, so that about -6V is maintained
on the negative terminal of C2. This
voltage is applied via a 3.3kΩ resistor
to REF1 which produces a fixed -2.49V
and this in turn is divided down by a
12kΩ resistor, VR3 and the 1kΩ resistor
to ground to give the required 95.5mV
negative offset.
LED displays
The 7-segment display data from
IC1 appears at outputs RB1-RB7, as
does the data for the LED bargraph.
These outputs directly drive the LED
display segments and the bargraph
LEDs via 150Ω current limiting resistors.
As shown, the corresponding display segments are all tied together. In
addition, the cathodes of the seven
LEDs are each tied to a display segment. In operation, only one 7-segment LED display or the bargraph is
on at any instant but because they are
rapidly switched in sequence, they
appear to be continuously lit.
This technique is called “multi
plexing” and it involves individually
switching outputs RA0-RA4 low and
then high again in sequence to control
60 Silicon Chip
switching transistors Q1-Q4. Q1-Q4
in turn control the LED displays.
For example, when RA0 is switched
low, Q4 turns on and applies power
to the common anode connection of
DISP3. Any low outputs on RB1-RB7
will therefore light the respective
segments in the display. RA0 is then
switched high again and RA1 is
switched low to drive Q3 and DISP2,
after which it’s the turn of RA2 and
RA1.
Display modes
Resistors R1, R2 and R3 are used
to select the various display mode
options. When installed, they respectively tie the RB1, RB3 and RB4
lines low. R1 determines whether the
bargraph operates in bar or dot mode;
R2 sets the display mode to volts
or air-fuel ratio; and R3 determines
whether the air-fuel ratio is for propane or unleaded petrol.
Each time power is applied to the
circuit, the software sets RB1, RB3 &
RB4 as inputs with internal pullup
resistors. Each pullup resistor will
hold its corresponding input pin
high if there is no external resistor
to ground. Conversely, if an external
IC2b is used to control the display
brightness. This op amp is connected
as a voltage follower and drives buffer
transistor Q5 which in turn controls
the voltage on the emitters of the display driver transistors, Q1-Q4.
When the ambient light is high,
LDR1 is low resistance and so the
voltage on pin 5 of IC2b is close to
+5V. This means that the voltage on
Q4’s emitter will also be close to +5V
and so the displays operate at full
brightness.
As the ambient light falls, the LDR’s
resistance increases and so the voltage at pin 5 of IC2b falls. As a result,
Q5’s emitter voltage also falls and so
the displays are driven at reduced
brightness.
At low light levels the LDR’s resistance is very high and the voltage
on pin 5 is determined by VR1. This
trimpot sets the minimum brightness
level.
Clock signals
Clock signals for IC1 are provided
by an internal oscillator circuit and
this operates in conjunction with
4MHz crystal X1, between pins 15 &
16. Also included in the clock circuit
are two 15pF capacitors. These ensure
correct loading so that the oscillator
starts reliably.
In operation, the 4MHz crystal frequency is divided down internally to
produce separate clock signals for the
microcontroller operation and for the
display multiplexing.
Power
Power for the circuit is derived from
the vehicle’s +12V ignition supply.
This is fed in via a 10Ω resistor which,
together with the 47µF and 0.1µF capacitors, provides decoupling. Zener
diode ZD1 is included for transient
protection – it limits any spike voltages to 16V and also protects against
reverse supply connections.
The decoupled supply rail is fed
to REG1 to derive a +5V rail. This is
then filtered and used to power IC1
and the LED displays. IC2 and the
voltage offset circuit are powered
directly from the decoupled +12V
ignition supply.
Software
OK, that completes the circuit
description. In reality, the hardware
only forms half the picture. The other
half is locked up inside the microprocessor which performs all the complicated stuff under software control.
Do you REALLY want to know how
the software works? Do you? We won’t
go into the details here because we
don’t have space. If you must know,
then you’ll find the source code posted on our website.
Construction
You really don’t need to concern
yourself with the software to build
this circuit. Instead, you simply buy
the programmed PIC chip and install
it like any other IC.
Fig.3 shows the assembly details.
This mainly involves building two
PC boards – a microcontroller board
coded 05109001 and a display PC
board coded 05109002. Once assembled, these two board are stacked
together in piggyback fashion using
pin headers and cut down IC sockets.
This technique eliminates inter-board wiring since the connections are automatically made via the
pin headers.
Before starting assembly, check
both boards for shorts between tracks,
open circuits and undrilled holes.
Note particularly that two holes are
required in the display PC board to
provide screwdriver access to trimpots VR1 and VR2 on the processor
board. These holes are located just
below DISP3 and to the left of VR3.
The microcontroller board can be
assembled first. Begin by installing
the wire links, then install the resistors. Table 2 lists the resistor colour
codes, although it’s a good idea to also
check them using a digital multimeter.
Note that the seven 150Ω resistors
are mounted end-on as shown.
Trimpots VR1 & VR2 can go in
next, followed by a socket to accept
IC1 (taking care with its orientation).
IC2 is soldered directly to the board
– install this now, followed by zener
diode ZD1 and transistors Q2-Q5.
Be very careful here, because Q5 is
the odd man out. It’s an NPN BC337
type, whereas Q2-Q3 are all PNP
The whole assembly fits neatly into the smallest available plastic utility box
and matches several previous car projects based on PIC microcontrollers. LDR1
should be mounted so that its face is about 3mm above the LED displays.
BC327s. Mix them up and you’ve got
problems.
Regulator REG1 must be mounted as shown, with its metal tab flat
against the PC board and with its
leads bent at rightangles so that they
pass through the PC board holes.
Make sure that the hole in its metal
tab lines up with the matching hole in
the board, as this has to later accept
a mounting screw.
The capacitors can now be installed. Note that the two electrolytic
capacitors are mounted horizontally,
across the regulator’s leads; ie, their
leads should be bent at right angles
before they are installed. Note also
that these capacitors are polarised,
so be sure to mount them with the
polarity shown.
Crystal X1 mounts horizontally on
the PC board but can go in either way
around. It is secured by soldering a
short length of tinned copper wire to
one end of its metal case and to a PC
pad immediately to the right of Q3.
The three 7-way in-line sockets are
made by cutting two 14-pin IC sockets
into inline strips. Use a sharp knife
or a fine-toothed hacksaw for this job
and clean up the rough edges with a
file before installing them on the PC
board.
Finally, install three PC stakes at
the external wiring positions (sensor,
+12V & GND). Once they’re in, trim
these stakes on the parts side of the
board so that they cannot short against
the display board later on.
Display board assembly
As before, install the wire links
and resistors first but only install R1
if you want the bargraph to operate in
bar mode. This done, install the three
7-segment LED displays with their
decimal points at bottom right. The
LED bargraph can also be installed
at this stage – it mounts with its pin
1 (indicated by the bevelled edge)
towards transistor Q1.
The remaining parts can now all be
installed, noting that D1 and D2 face
in opposite directions. The two 10µF
capacitors are mounted flat against
the PC board, while LDR 1 should be
installed so that its top face is about
3mm above the displays.
The three 7-way pin headers are
installed from the copper side of the
PC board, with their leads just protruding above the top surface. You
will need a fine-tipped iron to solder
them in. It will also be necessary to
slide the plastic spacers along the
pins to allow room for soldering, after
which the spacers can be pushed back
down again.
That’s all we have space for this
month. Next month, we will complete
the assembly and describe how the
unit is installed and calibrated. SC
SEPTEMBER 2000 61
LA-CRO
C’est Magnifique
It’s a CRO, signal generator, frequency
analyser, logic analyser, chart recorder and
more, all in one compact package.
By PETER RADCLIFFE*
Electronics project work can be very frustrating for
many students due to a lack of test equipment. Unfortunately, the simple solution of buying lots of equipment is
just too expensive for many institutions, so that’s not the
answer. And even where equipment is readily available,
students usually cannot take it home to “play” with in
their own time.
At the Department of Computer Systems Engineering
at RMIT (Melbourne), we graduate some 250 engineering
Peter Radcliffe is a Senior Lecturer at the School of Electrical
and Computer Systems Engineering at RMIT.
62 Silicon Chip
students each year who must be competent in electronics
design, communications systems design, and of course
computer systems and software design. And in common
with many other institutions, we have found it a struggle to
keep our high-quality project work going, in part because
equipment is so expensive.
More importantly, we have found that students learn
much more when they can do laboratory and project work
at home. They can fiddle around and try things, come back
to it later if they are stuck, and spend as much time on the
equipment as they wish – things that are impossible in a
2-hour lab session. Unfortunately, very few students can
Fig.1: this screen grab shows an AM signal from the
inbuilt signal generator (green trace) and the resulting
demodulated signal (pink trace) obtained using a diode,
resistor and capacitor.
Fig.2: the frequency spectrum for the AM signal (green)
and the demodulated signal (pink). Note the carrier and
sidebands around 10 harmonics, and the DC offset and
demodulated signal around the first harmonic.
afford the equipment necessary to work at home – until
now, that is.
My solution to this dilemma has been to create “LACRO”. Basically, the aim was to keep it as inexpensive as
possible while providing many useful test instruments,
all in one easily-carried package. Of course, it’s speed is
limited (the sampling rates are just 1µs digital signal and
1.2µs for analog) but it’s affordable and is sufficient for
most purposes.
Physically, the device is built into a metal diecast case
which makes for a very rugged assembly indeed. In fact,
it’s virtually bullet-proof! The actual dimensions are 160 x
150 x 45mm (W x D x H), so it slots easily into a briefcase
or carry bag. Power comes from a 12VAC plugpack supply.
(4) A signal generator which includes both AM and FM
modulation facilities. There are two outputs: ±1V and
±10mA.
(5) A 2-channel chart recorder that saves to disk as
it samples. Measurements include average, peak, RMS,
frequency and period.
The logic functions include:
(1) A logic analyser with trigger and sampling rates up
to about 1MHz.
(2) A logic chart recorder.
(3) A logic tester in which eight channels of data can
be edited. The eight outputs can drive the circuit under
test and the eight inputs captured. All 16 waveforms can
then be displayed on screen.
Where’s the PC?
Other features
As you’ve no doubt gathered by now, LA-CRO isn’t a
standalone device. Instead, it plugs into the parallel port of
a PC and works with an accompanying software program
that runs under anything from Windows 3.1 to Windows
2000. In operation, the software generates virtual instrument panels directly on the PC’s monitor.
You don’t need fancy hardware to run the LA-CRO
software and an old PC can be pressed into service if you
have one spare. The minimum system requirements are a
33MHz 486 and 3MB of hard disk space. As for the RAM
required, well that depends on the operating system that
you’re running.
The software has been designed to wring as much as possible from the hardware. The result is a unit that, although
modest in speed, has a remarkable range of functions (both
analog and digital).
We’ll take a look at the analog functions first. These
include:
(1) A dual-channel digital storage CRO with a maximum
resolution of about 1.2µs.
(2) A frequency analyser, with frequency spectrum of
the signal displayed in terms of harmonics of the fundamental frequency.
(3) Frequency response analysis from about 25Hz to
100kHz.
LA-CRO’s talents don’t end with the features listed
above, though. There are lots of other features, as follows:
(1) LA-CRO can supply +5V and -5V rails at 300mA to
power circuits under test.
(2) An output called “GO” goes high, from 0V to +5V,
The LA-CRO circuit board is mounted on a metal diecast
base, with a cover then fitted over the top. It connect to the
PC via a standard printer cable.
SEPTEMBER 2000 63
Fig.3: the chart recorder has been used here to capture the
turn-on transients of an amplifier.
Fig.5: eight user-defined outputs can be used to drive a
circuit and eight inputs captured using the Logic Tester.
Fig.4: this relay operation was uncovered using the oneshot storage capability of the CRO and the GO output for
driving the relay. The green trace shows that the relay
switched some 8ms after being energised. The coil current
(red trace) took about 3ms to build and has some ripple as
the armature closes against the coil.
Fig.6: the digital chart recorder can set any of the eight
digital outputs and record the responses of the 12 digital
inputs and the X & Y inputs. Notice that the X and Y
threshold voltages can be individually set by entering in
the desired values, and you can set the element width and
sampling rate.
three samples after any CRO sampling starts. This can be
used to drive devices at currents up to 300mA, including
relays and small light bulbs. GO can be extremely useful
when it comes to stimulating transient events.
(3) Except for the AC/DC selection, all controls, including gain, operate from the screen.
(4) In single-cycle mode, the CRO automatically sets the
timebase so that exactly one cycle is displayed.
(5) The data on most screens can be saved as a .CSV
file that can subsequently be loaded into any spreadsheet.
(6) The eight digital outputs and 12 digital inputs can
be directly controlled from the LA-CRO software or from
C and C++ programs that you write.
(7) The signal generator can load an arbitrary signal
shape from a text file. For instance, one of the examples
provided with LA-CRO spells out “MUM” on the CRO!
By the way, the LA-CRO Help file is quite extensive
and is context sensitive. Each control is fully explained
and its limitations stated.
The analog portion of LA-CRO is accurate to about
seven bits which is adequate for most purposes. A close
inspection of the sinewave will show a little noise but the
distortion is under 1%. Of course, the modest sampling
speeds (1µs digital and 1.2µs analog) mean that you won’t
be debugging your Pentium PC or RF circuits with LACRO. On the other hand, these sampling speeds are more
than adequate for audio work and digital interfaces like
serial EEPROMs, data links and slower microprocessors.
In many cases, LA-CRO may be the only test instrument
you need as it can power a circuit, provide analog and digital inputs, and then measure the analog or digital outputs
and display the results on the monitor.
64 Silicon Chip
External connections
LA-CRO connects to external circuits using three 34way IDC connectors. The CRO inputs and signal generator
outputs are most easily connected by test clips (which
come with the full package).
Test clips are less expensive than BNC connectors and
being small, they can often connect to parts of the circuit
Fig.7: the ±10mA output and the XY mode are used here to
show the voltage-current characteristics of a zener diode.
that would be would be impossible to reach with standard
BNC leads.
On the other hand, the digital inputs and outputs are
probably best connected using 34-way IDC cables. These
can be fitted with connectors so that they simply plug
into the IDC header pins, or you can solder the relevant
leads to the pins.
Although 34-way IDC cables can be purchased new, you
can save money by purchasing then secondhand. These are
the same as the floppy disk drive cables used in PCs and
can often be found in the “disposals” boxes at electronics
and computer stores. Alternatively, you can scrounge them
for nothing from junked PCs.
If you need to make up your own leads, IDC connectors
are quite cheap and can be purchased in both solder and
wire-wrap versions.
Driving LA-CRO
Connecting LA-CRO to your computer and installing
the software is dead simple. The software comes on two
floppy disks and is installed by double-clicking the setup
icon (the procedure is a bit more complicated for Windows
3.1 but it’s all explained in the instructions).
A standard printer cable is used to connect the hardware
to the PC’s parallel port. Note, however, that most PCs have
several EPP (enhanced parallel port) modes and not all
these will work with LA-CRO. This means that, in some
cases, it might be necessary to enter the BIOS setup and
change the printer port setting.
When you load the software, a display window appears
with buttons for all the instruments. After that, you can
go to the required test instrument by clicking its button.
The various screen grabs (Figs.1-9) show just some of the
virtual instrument panel displays under actual measurement conditions.
One interesting feature is that either an HC240 or
HCT240 logic input buffer can be used in LA-CRO, to
cater for CMOS or TTL voltage thresholds respectively.
An HC240 chip is supplied and this (or an HCT240) is
installed in socket U1, adjacent to the voltage regulator.
The digital portions of LA-CRO can be driven directly
from C or C++ programs. This raises some interesting
possibilities. Windows NT and Windows 2000 block any
Fig.8: there are lots of options available for the signal
generator, including AM and FM modulation.
Fig.9: the “Help” file is context sensitive. Click on the Help
button for any of the instruments and the Help file shows
you how to use it.
attempt to use IO port access so the LA-CRO program must
be running to enable IO access. Conversely, under Windows
3.1, 95 or 98, there is no need to run the LA-CRO software
to access the IO ports.
Availability
Two versions of LA-CRO are available: a student version
consisting of a fully-assembled PC board for $220.00 and
a full package with case, plugpack, test clips and software
on floppy disk for $330.00. You can find out more, including how to order, by pointing your web browser to www.
techno-centre.com In fact, the Techno-Centre website is
worth visiting in its own right as it has lots of good information on hardware, software and business issues. Take
SC
a look for yourself.
Find Out More About RMIT
LA-CRO is now used very successfully in the School of
Electrical and Computer Systems Engineering at RMIT
(Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology). To find out
more about RMIT, visit their website at www.rmit.edu.
au and check out their web-based “Open Day” for more
projects and details of the university courses.
SEPTEMBER 2000 65
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au
the easy way into electronics
This month we introduce a new way of working with
electronic circuits – using Protoboards.
They enable you to put a circuit together quickly
without having to solder components into a PC board.
You can make changes very quickly and when you’ve
had your fun, you can pull it all apart and use the
components for something else.
A
ctually, there is nothing new
about protoboards. They have
been used by engineers and
technicians for making prototype
circuits for around 20 years or more.
In fact, that’s how most of the circuits published in SILICON CHIP begin
life, as a “lash-up” on a protoboard.
We have them in all sizes and have
used them to “bread-board” circuits
with as many as 40 ICs in some cases.
So we thought it was high time that
we described the concept to all our
readers so that they (you) can enjoy
their advantages.
So what is a protoboard? As you can
see from the photo, it is a plastic board
with a multitude of holes in it into
which you can plug ICs, transistors,
diodes, resistors, capacitors and a lot
of other components. The holes are
internally connected in vertical (columns) and horizontal lines (rows).
Protoboards are particularly useful
for lashing up circuits with dual inline (DIL) ICs but are equally useful
for circuits involving small signal
transistors or a mixture of ICs and
discrete components which is what
most circuits tend to be.
Fig.1 shows how the holes in a
typical protoboard are connected
together. The internal metallic connecting strips are shown in light blue.
As you can see, there is a central
horizontal channel and the ICs are
plugged in to straddle this. Each pin
will then be plugged into a column
connecting strip, each connecting five
By LEO SIMPSON
SEPTEMBER 2000 69
holes together. So if you have an IC
plugged in, you can have four components or leads connected to each pin.
Then there are two rows of connecting strips at each side of the protoboard and these are broken in the
centre by the “W” trademark. These
eight strips are used for making positive and negative supply connections.
As we will see later on, having
the supply connectors broken in the
centre makes it possible to have up
to eight separate supply rails or decoupled supplies and so on.
Don’t worry too much about the
variations that are possible. Just
remember that a protoboard of this
style is broken up into a lot of vertical
column connector strips for connecting to each pin of ICs and then there
are long row strips which provide for
power supply connections.
The small 8-pin, 14-pin and 16-pin
ICs are not the only ones that can be
plugged in. You can also plug in any
larger dual in-line IC whether it be a
40-pin job or larger, although since it
will be wider, you will not be able to
access all five holes on each column
connecting strip.
What size to buy?
Protoboards, sometimes called
“prototyping boards” or “electronic
breadboards”, come in all shapes and
sizes. What size is the best to buy?
In our experience, you will probably
want one which can accommodate up
to about six to eight 16-pin ICs in a
single line. Anything more than that
and you are probably well acquainted
with protoboards and already have one
or more on your workbench.
This rather tatty protoboard shows part of a circuit currently under development in the SILICON CHIP workshop. The beauty of protoboards is that you can
make circuit changes quickly and easily, and without soldering.
So to introduce this series of articles on protoboards, we have decided
on a particular type which is readily
available from parts retailers and
which has the right combination of
features.
The one we have decided upon is
the Wish WB-102 protoboard which
is available from Dick Smith Electronics (Cat H-4044) at $18.63. Other
retailers will have identical or similar
breadboards available. For example,
Jaycar have the WBU-202. It is a little
smaller than the WB-102 model and it
does not have the facility for splitting
the supply lines but it will accommodate the same number of ICs.
Current and voltage ratings
Before we go too far with proto-boards, we need to talk about the
current and voltages that they can
handle. In a word, “low”. They can’t
handle high voltage (because there
is a danger of flashovers” across the
various connecting strips. And they
can’t handle high current because the
connecting strips are quite thin.
Don’t even think about connecting
up a protoboard circuit which runs directly from the 240VAC mains supply.
This would be very dangerous as the
closely-spaced connector strips would
flash over between themselves or to the
metal baseplate which we will come to
Fig.1: This diagram shows how the holes in a typical protoboard are connected together. The internal
metallic connecting strips are shown in light blue.
70 Silicon Chip
later. Plus, the whole circuit
would be a death-trap!
Nor can you plug in components which have thick
connecting pins or big solder
lugs. This rules out most power transistors and Mos-fets,
rectifier diodes, large electrolytic capacitors, wire-wound
resistors and so on. The rule
of thumb is that if you have to
force a component lead in, it
is too thick.
However, you can still
use all these components
with protoboards, provided
you solder thin connecting
wires to each thick pin or
lug. You’ll get the idea as we
go along.
By the way, if you are silly
and do jam a thick component
into a protoboard hole, you
will find that, forever after,
that connecting strip will
then make poor contact with
component leads. You should
then mark those holes with a
Texta-colour pen to highlight This is our sample protoboard mounted on a baseplate which has provision for pots,
terminals and other hardware. The chaser circuit has been wired up with jump leads all
the problem strip.
the same colour – that might look neat but it is hard to follow. If you are buying a kit of
Back to voltage and current jump leads, make sure they come in different colours.
ratings: typically, you can use
protoboards at voltages up
one like it. Now what do you do with
Another advantage of a metal baseto around 50V (total) and at
it? You can start plugging components plate is that it can be connected to one
currents up to around 200mA without
problems. Again, higher voltages will into it to make up circuits. However, to of the power supply lines or an Earth
present problems of shorts and flasho- make it more useable, the protoboard line and effectively provide a “ground
vers and higher currents will inevitably needs to be mounted on a metal base- plane” for the circuit. This can be
cause problems with contact resistanc- plate. Not only does the baseplate then important with audio or RF circuits
provide a solid base for your circuits which may otherwise be troubled with
es and maybe even local heating in the
but it can have provision for power hum, instability or RF breakthrough.
connector strips. And we don’t want
supply connections, mounting holes
In fact, you can buy protoboards on
that, do we?
for pots, switches and output terminals baseplates but they are quite a bit more
OK, so let’s say you’ve gone out and
and so on.
expensive and they don’t provide for
purchased the suggested protoboard or
pots, switches etc.
With this in mind, we
have come up with a suggested baseplate design,
as shown in the photos.
This simply consists of a
sheet of aluminium with a
vertical section on one side.
Viewed from the front,
showing how we’ve made
provision for switches,
pots and various other
controls. The terminals,
DC input socket and switch
on the right aren’t “set in
concrete”: you can move
these around just as you
can any other component
on a protoboard.
SEPTEMBER 2000 71
can make your own by just getting
a length of 2-pair, 4-pair, 6-pair (or
more) telephone cable and cutting
lengths and stripping each end as you
need them. Remember, you must use
phone cable with solid core wires, not
multi-strand.
OK, that’s enough of the background;
let’s put a circuit together.
Chaser circuit
Fig.2: we made our baseplate from a sheet of 18-gauge aluminium cut to 270
x 200mm. The section bent up at right angles to become the control panel has
holes drilled for pots, input and output sockets, terminals and so on. There
is also room for a battery pack, small loudspeaker, piezo transducer or other
hardware which could be glued in place.
This has holes drilled in it to take the
afore-mentioned pots, switches, terminals and so on.
To make it, we obtained a sheet of
18-gauge aluminium measuring 300 x
300mm from Dick Smith Electronics
(Cat H-2560). We cut it to 270 x 200mm,
drilled a series of holes in it as shown
in Fig.2 and then bent up a 70mm
section at right angles to become the
control panel.
This baseplate is big enough to accommodate two of the Wish WB-102
protoboards side-by-side. The boards
have matching lugs on their sides so
that they can be locked together. Al72 Silicon Chip
ternatively, there is room for a battery
pack, small loudspeaker, piezo transducer or other hardware which could
be glued in place.
Wiring up circuits
Plugging components into a proto-board is dead simple; in the case of
an IC or transistor, you just line up the
component leads with the holes you
want and then push the component
in gently. Then to make point-to-point
connections on the board you need a
variety of lengths of solid-core insulated wire, in a range of colours.
You can buy jump wire kits but you
For our very first sample circuit on a
protoboard, we have chosen a simple
chaser, as shown in Fig.3. This uses
a 555 timer as an oscillator driving a
4017 decade counter. Five of the 4017
outputs are each used to drive a transistor and a LED. In fact, the circuit is
identical to a chaser we published in
the March 1994 issue.
For those who did not see that
issue, we will briefly describe the
circuit operation. IC1, the 555 timer,
is connected to oscillate at just a few
Hertz by virtue of the resistors and
capacitor connected to pins 2, 6 & 7.
The square wave output from pin 3 of
IC1 is fed to the clock input of IC2, the
4017 counter.
IC2 is connected to continuously
count up to five by dint of the connection of pin 1 to the reset input, pin
15. Each of the five outputs used will
go high in turn and drive the base of
an associated NPN transistor which
turns on two LEDs in series with a
470Ω resistor.
If you want a more complete circuit
description you can refer to our article
in the March 1994 issue which also
featured a PC board.
Now have a look at the photo of the
assembled circuit and Fig.4 which
shows the proposed wiring layout.
Start by plugging in the two ICs, so
that their notched ends face towards
the lefthand end of the board.
Then insert the resistors and capacitors. Note that the electrolytic
capacitors must be correctly oriented
otherwise they will have positive
voltage applied to the wrong electrode
and they won’t work. Next, insert the
resistors and the LEDs. Note that the
flats on the LEDs all face to the lefthand
end of the protoboard.
You can’t insert the trimpot as it is
because its leads are too thick. You
will need to solder some short tinned
copper wires to each lead – use some
pigtail lengths from a resistor.
Finally, you can make all the component interconnections with the
Fig.3: this chaser circuit uses a 555 timer as an oscillator driving a 4017 decade counter. Five of the 4017 outputs are each
used to drive a transistor and a LED.
solid-core jump leads. Don’t hurry the
job because if you do, you will surely
make mistakes.
You will need to wire up a DC socket
to suit a 6V DC plugpack to power the
chaser. Alternatively, you could use a
battery pack using 4 AA cells or better
still, use a 6V lantern battery.
A silicon diode between the supply
socket and the supply line on the board
protects components against accidental reversal of the power supply. This
can be left permanently in place.
Don’t forget to insert the two short
jump leads which connect the supply
lines along one side of the protoboard.
Which ever way you do it, go
carefully with the work and check it
all carefully before applying power.
When you do, you may find that some
LEDs don’t light. Then it is a matter
of checking your connections to the
particular transistor and LEDs again
and then making the correction. This
is the beauty of protoboards. You can
easily change the circuit – much easier
than if you were assembling a PC board.
OK, you’re probably itching to
assemble a whole lot more circuits.
Before you do, consider the circuit you
have just built. Try playing around with
it. Want less LEDs? Want more? Why
Fig.4: you can use this wiring layout to connect up the chaser. Note that the trimpot will need thin wires soldered to
its lugs before you can plug it in.
SEPTEMBER 2000 73
And here’s what you see looking straight down on the protoboard. Compare this shot with Fig.4 on the previous page. As
you can see, there is plenty of room on the aluminium baseplate for another protoboard (they interlock with the tabs you
can see on the bottom and right), a small speaker, a battery pack or other bulky components or hardware.
not try making it count to 6, 7 or 8 by
connecting the reset (pin 15) to pins 1,
5 or 6 respectively (instead of pin 10).
To add extra LEDs into the “chase”,
simply duplicate the LED driver circuits (10kΩ resistor, BC547 transistor,
470Ω resistor and two LEDs). You
might have to squash the layout a bit
more but again, that’s the beauty of a
breadboard.
Want to make the LEDs run faster?
Just reduce the value of the electrolytic
capacitor connected to pin 2 of IC1.
Want to make the LEDs run slower?
Add another electrolytic capacitor in
parallel with the one already connected
to pin 2 of IC1.
74 Silicon Chip
In other words, don’t be afraid to
experiment as protoboards are ideal
for this approach.
Other observations
Notice that we have used all the one
colour for the jump leads on our protoboard chaser. While it looks neat, it
is much harder to follow than if all the
wire colours are different and that’s the
way we have shown it on the wiring
layout of Fig.4.
You don’t have to be a genius to
realise that this circuit could be wired
up on the same protoboard in hundreds
of different ways. No one way is necessarily better than another, although
component layout can be very important in audio and RF circuits.
We could also have eliminated quite
a few of the jump wires by using the
resistors themselves to make some of
the point-to-point connections. We
did it this way in an attempt to make
it easier to follow.
That’s all for now. We’ll present
another protoboard circuit for you to
SC
experiment with next month.
Acknowledgment:
Our thanks to Dick Smith Electronics for
supplying the protoboards and materials
used in the preparation of this article.
G E A R E D A C M O T O R S
Brand new small mains operated geared
motors, very strong,
made for rotating
microwave turntables, 240V/ 50Hz/
3W/ 5RPM., $4Ea.
or or 4 for $12.
BRAND NEW GERMAN MADE MOTOR
AND GEARBOX.
This is a 24V motor but runs well with
plenty of torque at 12V and starts at 2-3V.
The output shaft is 10mm dia. and the
motor is 60mm dia. X 94mm long. We
believe these are made as truck
windscreen wiper motors. This motor is
worth well over $100,
But as a special for
August and Sep.2000
only... just $20
More motors on our website
20ADC motor speed controller kit (K98)
$14 when purchased with the above motor.
New 12V-24V inverter under
development
STEPPER MOTORS
SANYO DENKI (Step Syn) Type 103770-6942, 4wire, main body is 67mm
diam. by 51mm long, 1.5A / 4.5V,
1.8deg. steps, 0.46KG,: $15
AUTOMATIC LASER LIGHT SHOW KIT:
MKIII. Changes patterns every 5 - 60 secs.
Countless great displays from single to
multiple flowers, collapsing circles,
rotating single & multi ellipses, stars, etc.
Kit inc. PCB, all on board comp-onents,
three small DC motors, mirrors, precision
adjustable mirror
mounts &
laser module.
(K115) Kit with
laser module $50
case $15
a special for August & September 1995.
PAN / TILT DUAL SERVO CONTROLLER
KIT: Ref. SC Jan 1998. This kit can be
used to control two model radio control
servos such as our MS1 servos. Two
servos can be configured to rotate & pan a
small camera (these parts are not included
in kit). PCB measures 63 x 48mm and
operates from 9-12V DC. The kit includes a
PCB, all the on-board components,
pushbutton, potentiometers, knobs, plastic
case & a label: (K114) $19
RADIO CONTROL MODEL SERVO:
These servos are ideal for robotics
projects with good speed and high torque
specifications. Servos measure 55mm
long x 20mm wide x 38mm high. Used in
our Robotic Arm & Servo Controller kits.
Servos are supplied
with a selection of
output arms and
disks plus mounting
screws (MS1) $22 ea
Ball bearing version also available. $32
ATTENTION TRAVELLERS
WITH 120V MAINS (USA ETC).
WE HAVE A LARGE QUANTITY OF
100-120V POWER ADAPTORS:
All new quality brands (mainly Packard
Bell) All with U.S. approvals
120VAC/60Hz INPUT 9VDC <at> 1A OUT
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120VAC/60Hz INPUT 6VDC <at> 135mA
120VAC/60Hz INPUT 18VDC <at>80mA
US. IEC. MAINS LEADS 6ft long
$5 ea or 5 for $20
120V/60W Edison Screw “rugged
construction” type:... 10 for $10
We have commercial quantities of
these items
RING US FOR QUANTITY PRICES
SUPER SPECIAL
AUGUST / SEPTEMBER PRICES
SUPER MICRO MONOCHROME CCD
CAMERA MODULE: This small camera
operates from 9 to 14.5V DC (1.2W) and
outputs CCIR (50Hz, 625 lines interlaced)
composite video (1V pp 75ohm).
Horizontal resolution is 380 TV lines, CCD
size is 1/3", light sensitivity is 0.2Lux. Has
Auto-Iris lens. This
If you mention “KTX” when ordering. camera is Infra Red
responsive & can be
IBM VOICE TYPE 3.0 KIT:
used in total darkness
This is a complete kit for
with IR Illumination.
Voice Dictation. Incs.
available 17mm diameter x 60mm
software, manual & a
separately long, 20grams. Includes
noise cancelling desktop
3.7mm lens: (AR717R) $99
microphone. Brand new .
Software incs. VoiceType
H I G H P E R F O R M A N C E
IBM Anti Virus & Jungle
MONOCHROME CCD CAMERA
Book for Windows on CD.(IBMVT3) $22
MODULE: This small camera operates
MERIT PENTIUM II MOTHERBOARD: from 7.5 to 14.5V DC (1.16W) and outputs
Recent motherboard made for the latest CCIR (50Hz, 625 lines interlaced)
CPU's. Std ATX form factor. Has 3 x (16- composite video (1V pp 75ohm).
bit) ISA slot, 4 x (32-bit) PCI slots, 1 x AGP Horizontal resolution is 380 TV lines, CCD
slot & 3 x DIMM (memory) slots, On-board element size is 1/3", light sensitivity is
1 x PS/2 keyboard, 1 x PS/2 mouse socket, 0.1Lux. Has Auto-Iris lens. This camera is
2 x USB, 1 x parallel, 2 x serial ports. With Infra Red responsive
setup manual & CD, IDE & FDD cables. & can be used in total
Brand new in original box. Accepts Intel darkness with IR
Pentium II & Intel Celeron CPU's (NOT Illumination. 32mm
SUPPLIED) from 233 to 800MHz. The x 32mm x 27mm
CPU socket is SLOT-1, S-370 CPU could high & unit weighs
be use with a converter board (NOT 20grams. Includes
SUPPLIED). Selectable 66 & 100MHz 3.7mm lens: (AR732) $89
BUS speeds & a clock multiplier up
to 8 times. Should
COLOUR CCD CAMERA MODULE
accept Pentium
WITH AUDIO: This small camera
III CPU's, on a
operates from 12V DC (2W) and outputs
100MHz bus:
PAL (50Hz, 625 lines interlaced)
(M6TBA) $110
composite video (1V pp 75ohm).
Horizontal resolution is 330 TV lines, CCD
PENTIUM MOTHERBOARD:
element size is 1/3", light
Std. AT form factor, with VIA Apollo MVP4
sensitivity is 3Lux. Has
chipset. ZIF Socket 7 for Intel Pentium (std
Auto-Iris lens.
& MMX) CPUs, 100 to 233Mhz, IBM / Cyrix
38mm x 38mm x
6x86/6x86L/6x86MX/M-II 150 to 400MHz,
32mm high and
AMD K5/K6/K6-2/K6-III 133 to 450MHz &
unit weighs 20grams.
IDT Winchip C6 CPUs 200 to 225MHz.
Inc. 3.7mm lens: (ARCB21) $180
Has onboard AC97 Audio & Video. 2 x
DIMM sockets, 1 x (16-bit) ISA slot, 1 x
HOUSED MONOCHROME CCD
AMR (audio modem riser) slot & 3 x (32-bit)
CAMERA: This small camera operates
PCI slots. On-board IO incs. 2 x PCI IDE
from 12V DC (1.16W) and outputs CCIR
ports, 1 x PS/2 mouse, 1 x DIN keyboard
(50Hz, 625 lines interlaced) composite
connector, 4 x USB Ports, 1 x Parallel, 2 x
video (1V pp 75ohm). Horizontal
Serial and 1 x VGA connector. New with
resolution is 380 TV lines, CCD element
manual, setup CD, IDE / FDD cables & 4
size is 1/3", light sensitivity is 0.1Lux. Has
back panel connectors for printer & serial
Auto-Iris lens. This camera is
ports, vga monitor,
Infra Red responsive
joystick & 3 audio
and can be used in
connectors In orig.
total darkness
anti-static bag.
with IR Illumination.
22cm x 19cm:
40mm x 39mm x
(EPMVP4) $90
35mm high and
NEED A CPU FOR ONE OF THE ABOVE unit weighs 13g (AR830M) $99
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BRANKO FOR OUR LATEST PRICES MONOCHROME CCD VIDEO CAMERA:
AND AVAILABILITY
Black & white Camera is assembled on a
small PCB with an auto iris lens. (IR)
3DEMON PCI TV /
responsive. (0.1 lux) Can be used in total
CAPTURE CARD:
darkness with IR Illumination. 32 x 32 by
Model PV951. With
27mm. The output is std video & can be
IR remote controls.
plugged into the "VIDEO IN" socket of any
Brand new:
Australian std VCR, video monitor or TV
(PV951) $160
with A / V inputs, or via an RF Modulator to
TEKRAM PCI DC-315U ULTRA SCSI an Antenna Input. The lens can be
CONTROLLER CARD: This host adapter focused sharply down to a few mm(this is
inc. the PCI SCSI card, manual, Driver useful for people with visual impairment).
Disks and an Ultra Cable. Brand new in Spec.: Power req.: 10V to 12V <at> approx.
original box: (DC315U) $50
50mA. Resolution: 400 lines approx. CCD
TELEPHONY COMBO 33.6K MODEM / sensor : 1/3" (320 000 pixels). Weight:
SOUND CARD: Kit inc. ISA card, manual, 30g: Version with 60° (Pin Hole) lens
fitted: (CA41L60) $89 Standard Version
Driver Disks, phone
with 92° lens: (CA41L92) $89 Version with
Cable and a Headset
120° lens: (CA41L120) $89 - Currently out
with speakers and
of Stock Version with 150°
Microphone. Brand
(Fish Eye) lens fitted:
new:(MDSP2780)
(CA41L150) $99
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DICTATION SOFTWARE
WITH THE PURCHASE
OF ANY OF THESE
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PC FM TUNER CARD:
Brand New. Allows your PC to receive FM
Radio. Operates from a DOS or Windows.
The software is not supplied but can be
downloaded for free from
http://www.packardbell.com.au/software/f
mradio.zip Incs. a antenna and audio lead.
Can be connected to the line input of a
Sound Card or to powered PC Speakers.
Setup is very easy. (RXFM) $15
KTX SP80 POWERED SPEAKERS:
These are magnetically shielded, &
operate from 240V AC. The amp is built in
has an output of 80W (PMPO) ? with
volume control and a headphone jack.
Each measures 190 mm high x 75mm
wide x 115mm deep. Simply connect to
CD player, PC etc. viia a 3.5mm stereo
plug: (SP80) $19
KTX PENTIUM II HEATSINK & FAN:
Brand new in original pack with clips and a
power lead terminated with a 3 pin plug.
(HHSP2) $4.50
P6 HEATSINK & FAN:
Designed for use with
the Pentium Pro CPU.
Brand new in original
pack with a
clip and power lead: (HHSP6T) $4.50
586 HEATSINK & FAN:
This heatsink & fan is designed for use
with 486 & 586 CPU's. Brand new in
original pack with lead: (HHS586) $3.50
NetUPS™ 450VA UPS:
Model # PRM450i. Made by Exide
Electronics. AC input is 220V to 240V
(selectable) <at> 50Hz via IEC socket. AC
output is 230V 450VA / 280W <at> 50Hz
(quasi-sine wave) via four IEC sockets.
Rear panel has a DB9 comms port and two
RJ45 sockets (in and out). The two RJ45
sockets provide a network transient
protector, which can be used with a
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SEPTEMBER
2000 75
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SC_SEP_00
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions from
readers are welcome and will be paid for at standard rates.
Improved engine
immobiliser uses SCR
This circuit was developed to
improve upon conventional rev limiter or ignition killer circuits. These
circuits usually employ a relay or
power transistor to shunt the distributor breaker points or high voltage
switching transistor. This prev
ents
the normal operation of the ignition
switching device so that it cannot
interrupt the coil’s primary current
and thereby develop a high voltage.
This was considered inefficient, as
the shunting device is required to carry the full ignition coil current which
can be as high as 10A peak. Other
disadvantages are that any tacho
meter reading will be disrupted when
the rev limiter is operating and there
is the potential to overheat the coil if
the rev limiter remains in operation
for too long.
By contrast, this ignition killer circuit operates without carrying the full
coil current. It uses a cheap SCR and
does not disrupt any associated tacho
circuit. It can be used in conjunction
with the Rev Limiter circuit published
in the April 1999 issue and the Tachometer published in the April 2000
issue of SILICON CHIP.
Instead of shunting the ignition coil
current, the SCR shorts out the ignition coil’s back-EMF. This back EMF
is produced each time the points or
switching transistor interrupts the coil
current. The SCR is connected so that
it is normally reverse-biased by the
voltage across the coil when current
is flowing through it and so the SCR
has no effect on normal operation.
SCR gate current is provided by
the 330kΩ resistor connected to the
anode of diode D1 but normally this
gate current is shunted to chassis by
transistor Q1 which is normally on.
If the rev limiting circuit is activated, Q1 is turned off by a low-going
signal and gate current can flow to the
SCR, turning it on to kill the ignition
coil’s back EMF.
With the gate resistor values
shown, the coil’s back-EMF should be
clamped to about 60V which should
be insufficient for the ignition system
to operate.
George Mackiewicz,
Vermont, Vic. ($40)
Silicon Chip
Binders
$12.95
PLUS $
5 P&P
AUST.
ONLY
A really simple
transistor tester
Just fill in & mail the handy order
form in this issue; or fax (02) 9979
6503; or ring (02) 9979 5644 & quote
your credit card number.
76 Silicon Chip
This circuit is about as simple as
you can have for a transistor tester.
It feeds less than 1mA of current
into the base and provided the
transistor has even a modest gain,
the NPN or PNP LED will light
to indicate a functioning device.
Power for the circuit comes from
a 9V battery.
David Milne,
Minchinbury, NSW. ($25)
Adding a timer to the
NiCd discharger
While the NiCd discharger
published in the November 1992
issue of SILICON CHIP has been
very popular, it can be made more
useful by the addition of a timer.
Such a timer would only run while
the discharger was operating and
would thereby give an indication
of battery capacity.
In this case the timer is a standard 1.5V crystal-controlled clock
mechanism and it is powered by
the voltage developed across the
discharge indicator, LED1. The existing 10µF capacitor across LED1
is increased to 100µF to enable it
to supply the brief current pulses
required by the mechanism.
To simplify the “time” indication, only the hour hand needs
to be fitted. This can be manually
reset to “12” each time a battery
is to be discharged and then the
time is easily read at the end of
the cycle.
Reg Carter,
Ballarat, Vic. ($25)
Different colours
from a green LED
This circuit makes use of the fact
that green LEDs tend to change colour, depending on how hard they are
driven. They glow bright green when
driven at currents of a few milliamps
or more but at less than 1mA, the glow
degenerates to an orangey-red.
The effect varies with different
batches of green LEDs so you will need
to experiment with the resistor values.
Note also that the light output at currents of less than 1mA is quite low so
Truscott’s
• RESELLER FOR MAJOR KIT
RETAILERS
• PROTOTYPING EQUIPMENT
• COMPLETE CB RADIO
the circuit is only suitable where the
ambient light is low.
David Milne,
Minchinbury, NSW. ($20)
WANTED!
YOUR CIRCUITS AND PROJECTS!
If you have a scathingly brilliant, original circuit that you’d like to share with
the world – and make some money as well – send it in to us. We’ll pay up to
$100 for a really good idea but there are a few conditions:
• It must be your own work • It must not have been published or submitted
elsewhere • It must be something other SILICON CHIP readers would find
interesting.
Send to: The Publisher, SILICON CHIP, PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097.
email: silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au Phone: (02) 9979 5644
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Fax (03) 9725 9443
27 The Mall, South Croydon, Vic 3136
(Melway Map 50 G7)
email: truscott<at>acepia.net.au
www.electronicworld.aus.as
SEPTEMBER 2000 77
He has
eyes!
He has a
heart!
He has a
stomach!
He even has
feelings!
He has
memory!
He has a
brain!
He has legs!
He has
nerves!
He’s CYBUG –
The Solar Fly
by
Ross Tester
Here’s a great “first kit” to build. It’s a simple robot which
has just a few components – but is a real attention-getter!
L
ooking for a first kit to build,
something to start you (or maybe
someone else) on that path to
the fascinating world of electronics?
Here’s one that you’ll “fly” through.
(OK, OK, I’m sorry!).
But what is it?
Well, you know how bright light
78 Silicon Chip
attracts insects? It doesn’t just happen
in nature: Cybug senses the brightest
object and moves towards it. The fly’s
feelers help it navigate its way around
obstacles in its path – and it even has a
short-term memory. Pretty clever, eh?
And all this is done with just a handful of components. There are just six
resistors, three capacitors, two ICs, a
couple of diodes, three transistors and
two motors. Oh, and two solar cells. It’s
those solar cells which not only sense
the bright objects, they also supply the
power which drives Cybug.
Cybug has a solar engine which in
some ways resembles a chloroplast.
In living plants, a chloroplast is the
part of the plant responsible for con-
verting sunlight to energy (in the form
of starches).
In Cybug, its “chloroplast” converts
sunlight into energy, in the form of a
steady voltage for powering logic (life
support function) and channels any
excess or bonus voltage to the motors
for mobility.
So in some ways, Cybug has most
of the elements of a real, live animal:
sight (its infrared diode detectors),
nerves (transistors), a stomach (a large
electrolytic capacitor to hold energy),
memory (more electrolytic capacitors),
brains (a voltage comparator), a heart
(solar engine) and even a sense of
touch (its feelers).
The best part, though, is that you
don’t have to feed him or water him.
He gets everything he needs from
sunlight.
Circuit diagram
Fig.1 shows the circuit of the complete Cybug Solar Fly. At its heart is
the Motorola MC34164-3 micro-power
undervoltage sensing circuit (Q4).
(Normally we would call this an IC
and label it as such but we’ll stick with
the component labels as they appear
on the PC board to avoid confusion
later.)
Q4 monitors the output voltage of
the solar cells as they charge the electrolytic capacitor (C1) While ever the
voltage stays high (nearly 7V), Q4’s
reset stays high.
Normally, if the voltage drops be-
This is what you’ll get when you open the kit up: the weird-shaped PC board
(left), all components, two motors and even the guitar string wire used for
Cybug’s feelers. About the only extra thing you need is a roll of insulation tape.
low 7V, its output is sent low but in
this case, a 220kΩ resistor connected
between Vin and the positive supply
causes its low voltage sense to drop to
5V. This difference is called hysteresis.
While the output of Q4 is high, Q3 is
turned on, which will enable either of
the motors to operate if either receives
an input signal (via Q1 or Q2). These
are Darlington transistors, which simply means two transistors connected
together inside one package. They
are driven by the comparator circuit,
based around U1a and U1b.
circus
Fig.1: Cybug’s circuit. The solar batteries charge a capacitor which provides power to run the circuit as well as power to
the motors. Which motor is turned on depends on the amount of light striking the infrared diodes (D1 and D2).
SEPTEMBER 2000 79
These comparators monitor the
voltage from each of the infrared (IR)
diodes – the higher the light level,
the higher the voltage. Capacitors C2
and C3 across these two diodes slow
their response time, giving a little bit
of “memory” to the circuit.
If IR diode D1 detects more light
than its partner, U1a turns Q1 on and
the left motor lurches into life. The
converse is also true.
As the motors operate, the robot
turns left and right, which could turn
the “lit” IR diode away from the light.
If this happens, its partner gets more
light and turns the robot back in the
other direction.
The motor will operate while the
“chloroplast” solar engine pumps out
energy, keeping its capacitor charged.
If there's not enough light and this capacitor discharges, the voltage sensor
output goes low, removing bias from
Q3 which in turn prevents either motor
from operating.
The end result of all this is that the
Cybug moves in “steps”, according to
which IR LED is receiving the most
illumination. It then waits until the
solar cells have recharged the capacitor before moving off again. Naturally,
the more illumination the solar cells
receive, the faster these steps will be.
places where connections must be
made and no component leads are
placed.
That's the case with this board –
when finished, it looks like it’s missing
some components but the holes are
actually connection points. The technical name for one of these connecting
holes, by the way, is a “via”.
Note that the circuit (that is, the
way the components connect together)
rarely, if ever, looks just like the circuit
diagram. The circuit diagram is almost
always laid out neatly and clearly with
a natural “flow through” of functions.
The PC board tracks, which as we
said form the circuit, are laid out in a
way which makes everything fit but
often the tracks snake their way from
one side of the board to the other.
Two components which are alongside
each other on the circuit diagram may
in fact be at opposite ends of the PC
board – an vice versa!
One final point before we move
away from the component layout:
in the vast majority of projects, we
Circuits and printed circuits
Now turn to the component layout,
Fig.2. This shows the layout of all
components on the printed circuit
board (which we normally abbreviate
to PC board; sometimes you will see it
expressed simply as pcb).
All the components mount on the
top side (the side with the printing
on it) with their leads poking through
holes in the board to where they are
soldered to the copper tracks (the
“printed circuit”) underneath.
These tracks connect the various
components together to form the electrical circuit. Most PC boards you will
use are single sided – components are
on the top, the copper tracks underneath. However, the Cybug PC board
is actually double-sided, which means
there are also some tracks on the top
side of the board immediately under
the components.
As you might imagine, connections
must be made between the two sides.
Some of these are made by the holes
the components go through, with the
leads ending up soldered to both the
top and bottom. But there are other
80 Silicon Chip
Fig.2: component
layout of the doublesided pc board. No
track layout is
shown.
publish an “X-ray” drawing of the PC
board, viewed as if you are looking
through it and able to see the copper
tracks underneath. Of course, you
cannot normally see through it but
we do it this way to make component
placement easier. Unfortunately, in the
Cybug project, no copper pattern artwork was available, so none is shown.
It is sometimes confusing to beginners when we do print both an “X-ray”
image and the copper pattern itself
because they are not identical – they
are a “mirror image” of each other.
The reason is that the PC board
artwork, or pattern, is published is as
if you are looking at the underside of
the board from that side, while (as we
said before) the component overlay is
viewed from the top side – the side you
put the components through. That's
why they are mirror image.
Building it
The best approach in building
a project using a PC board is to
assemble the lowest-profile compo-
Parts List – Cybug Solar Fly
1 Cybug PC board
2 solar cells, approx. 3.5V output
2 low voltage DC motors
1 motor bracket
2 slices of glue stick for wheels
1 double-sided adhesive foam pad
1 steel guitar string
1 100mm length brass wire
1 150mm length hookup wire
1 roll black insulation tape*
Semiconductors
1 TLC27L2 dual op amp IC (IC1a, IC1b)
1 MC34164P-3 voltage detector (Q4)
3 MPSA12 high speed Darlington transistors (Q1-3)
2 Infrared LEDs (D1, D2)
Capacitors
1 2200µF 16VW electrolytic capacitor (C1)
2 1µF 16VW electrolytic capacitors (C2, C3)
Cybug looks like this rolled onto his back, ready for fitting the
motor assembly. Two electrolytic capacitors mount on this side.
nents first – almost always resistors,
followed by small capacitors, then
larger capacitors, and last of all semiconductors.
Many components, including large
capacitors (usually “electrolytic”
types) and almost all semiconductors
(plus some others) are “polarised” –
that is, they must be connected the
right way around to work.
Indeed, many components will
be instantly destroyed if connected
back-to-front.
In the case of electrolytic capacitors, there is almost always a “–” (minus) sign printed down their bodies to
indicate the negative lead. The other
lead is of course the positive.
Always insert an electrolytic capacitor with positive to the hole marked
positive and negative to the hole
marked negative on the PC board.
Semiconductors usually don’t have a
plus or minus sign on them, mainly
because most semiconductors have
more than two leads (diodes being
the obvious exception).
Almost always, a “pinout” is shown
on the circuit diagram to show you
how the leads are arranged.
Where transistors are concerned,
they have three leads, a base, emitter
and collector (abbreviated to B,E,C)
and different manufacturers have
used every possible combination of
Resistors (0.25W, 5%)
5 100kΩ resistors (code: brown-black-yellow-gold)
1 220kΩ resistor (code: red-red-yellow-gold)
* Not included in kit
these positions at some stage.
Always check the particular transistor against its diagram – never
assume!
Integrated circuits (or ICs) have
from three to hundreds of legs or pins,
though most of the ones you will be
using as a hobbyist will have between
8 and 16.
And most of those will be the “dual
in-line plastic” type (abbreviated to
DIP) which indeed the IC in this kit
is (an 8-pin type).
Have a look at the IC – you will
see against one pin a little dot in the
plastic. This marks pin 1 of the IC.
You may also note a notch in one
end – this is usually used as well as a
dot but in some cases the IC will have
only a dot or only a notch.
With the IC held so you are looking at its top surface (ie, pins away
from you) and the notch uppermost,
pin 1 is always the one immediately
to the left of the notch. Numbering
then works anticlockwise around
the IC – so pin 8 in this IC is directly
opposite pin 1.
One more point about semiconductors before we get into real construction. Many semis can be damaged by
static electricity, so you should never
handle them any more than you absolutely have to and then never hold
them by their pins. This is less of a
problem these days than it used to
be, fortunately.
OK, we’re nearly ready to start
building.
The first thing to do is have a good
look at the PC board to make sure
there are no obvious signs of damage
or defects in it.
In most magazine projects, a PC
board pattern is published to help you
do this but this is not always available
(and it’s not here!).
Second, check that you have all
the components by checking them
off against the parts list. Once again,
a full list is usually published with
each project.
And third, ensure that you have the
tools you’re going to need. Even for
this simple kit, you’re going to need:
A soldering iron – the best type is
a temperature-controlled model or
soldering station but a mains-powered, fine-point soldering iron,
intended for electronics use with
about a 30W element will be OK.
Solder – a roll of electronics
solder. Just because it’s in a roll
doesn’t mean it’s intended for
electronics use. Some plumbing
solder is available in rolls or coils
and this often has a corrosive
flux which will eat away at the
SEPTEMBER 2000 81
A close-up of the motor assembly, complete with double-sided adhesive foam (on
top of the aluminium motor bracket). The motors are stuck to the motor bracket
with black insulation tape. The wheels are in fact slices from hot-melt glue sticks.
PC board and eventually ruin
it. Always buy your solder from
electronics stores – then you know
that you’re getting the right stuff!
A pair of needle-nose pliers (they
have very fine tips for working
with small components).
A pair of side-cutters (again,
make sure they’re intended for
electronics work. Some are sold
for electricians to use but are far
too big for small components!).
A roll of insulation tape (preferably black).
And a pair of safety glasses (to protect your eyes from bits of flying
leads when you cut them, solder
splashes, etc).
Construction
As we said before, start with the
resistors. R1, R2 and R4-R6 are all
the same – 100kΩ, which has a colour
code of brown, black, yellow, gold.
The other resistor, R3, is 220kΩ (red,
red yellow, gold).
Gently bend the leads of the
resistors down 90°, using the needle-nose pliers, so that you have an
upside-down “U” shape where the
leads line up with the appropriate
holes in the PC board. Check that
you have the right resistors in the
right holes, solder them in place (on
the underside of the PC board) and
snip the excess leads off with your
sidecutters.
We’re going to depart just a little
from the order we said before: the
next component to mount is Q4, the
34164P voltage monitor.
This looks just like one of the tran82 Silicon Chip
sistors so we’re going to identify it
now and get it out of the way to save
mix-ups later. This device is polarity-sensitive – it must be inserted the
right way around. The flat side of the
device corresponds to the flat side of
the image on the PC board.
Transistors or ICs with leads are seldom inserted all the way into the PC
board – some lead length is left so the
devices are up off the board, helping
them to stay cool. Leave about 5mm
of lead on the top side of the PC board
and solder Q4 in on the other side.
Now we will do the same with the
three transistors (Q1, Q2 and Q3).
Again, they have to go in the right way
around and they also mount 5mm or
so above the board.
Next are the two infrared diodes.
These are also polarity sensitive –
there is a flat spot on the edge of
these which marks their cathode
(abbreviated K). Make sure the flat
on the edge corresponds with the flat
side painted on the PC board. When
soldered, bend both diodes forward
90° so they emerge from the front of
the PC board.
And while we are at it, let’s insert
and solder the two electrolytic capacitors in parallel with these diodes.
There’s one big difference here – these
two capacitors mount on the underside of the PC board and are soldered
on top – again, watch the polarity.
You can cut off the excess lead
on the outside, or negative leads of
these capacitors but DO NOT cut off
the excess off the positive leads (the
inside leads) – we are going to use
them as part of the Cybug’s feelers.
With your needle-nose pliers, form
a small loop (about 10mm around) in
the end of the lead and bend it down
90° so that it is vertical to the PC
board surface.
The IC is next. The notch aligns
with the notch on the symbol on the
PC board. When soldering the IC,
be very careful because the pads on
the PC board are very close together
and it’s easy to bridge across them. If
you need to, use a magnifying glass
to carefully examine your soldering,
just to make sure.
We will now attach the solar cells
to the PC board. These require short
(10mm) lengths of hookup wire. In
the kit, this was supplied as a length
of multi-part wire (actually computer
connection cable) but fortunately this
is easy to separate into individual
lengths.
Cut four lengths and strip the
insulation of, say, 3mm each end.
Carefully solder these four lengths
to the solar cells + and – terminals.
Place the solar cells on the PC board
and solder the other end of the four
wires into the holes marked S+ and
S–, with the pluses and minuses corresponding with the same markings
on the solar cells.
The cells are held in position with
insulation tape across their undersides, sticking them to the underside
of the PC board. You only need short
lengths of tape to do this.
Tools for hobby electronics: on the left is a pair of side-cutters and a pair of
needle-nose pliers, on the right a mains-powered soldering iron on a stand.
The motors are wired to the PC
board in a similar way, except that
this time we are going to need 8cm
lengths. On each motor, note which
terminal has a red dot – this is the
positive terminal of the motor and it
is connected to the “MOTOR” pad on
the PC board marked with a +. Before
that, though, use some more of your
black electrical tape to secure the
motors to the support bracket.
(DC motors are only polarised
in the sense that connecting them
back-to-front will cause them to run
backwards).
Also, when soldering in the wires
from the motors to the PC board, they
need to cross over – the right motor
connects to the M1 pads which are
on the left side of the board and the
left motor to the M2 pads on the right
side of the board.
The wheels are actually slices of
hot-melt glue sticks and we fix these
to the motor shafts by melting the centres of the “discs” with the soldering
iron, sliding them onto the shafts and
holding them squarely in place until
the glue hardens again. Nifty, eh?
(Not only that, but if you “throw
a wheel”, you’ll know how to make
another one and mount it!)
The motor mounting bracket, with
motors and wheels, mounts to the PC
board with double-sided adhesive
foam (supplied). The assembly needs
to be attached as close as possible to
the centre of gravity of the PC board
for best performance.
The final component, as such, to
mount is the large electrolytic capacitor (C1) which is in parallel with the
solar cells. Again, this capacitor is
polarity sensitive. It can be mounted
either standing up, in the normal way,
or lying flat down on the board as a
sort of “tail”. It’s up to you.
The feeler wires
In the kit is a length of steel guitar
string wire. This must be cut to form
the feelers but we have to warn you,
it is very tough – probably tougher
than the jaws of your sidecutters and
may “nick” them. So you might prefer
to find an old pair of cutters or even
some old scissors to cut the wire.
Don’t be tempted to pinch mum’s
good scissors to cut it – you may find
Cybug suddenly becomes very flat
and you won’t be able to sit down
for a week…
Cut two lengths of guitar string
wire 120mm long
and bend down
90° 5mm from one
end. Thread an end
through the left
feeler loop, bend
first, and solder it
to the pad beside
the “C2” marking
on the PC board.
Repeat for the right
feeler, soldering it
into the pad by the
“C3” marking.
Once in place,
grip the feelers
about 50mm from
the PC board and
bend outwards 90°.
You may also want
to bend them down
a little so they’re close to (but not
touching) the ground, and thus able
to detect small objects low down.
Now carefully adjust the feelers so
they lie, at rest, in the middle of the
loops you made earlier. (It may be easier to adjust the loops in some cases).
The idea is that when a feeler
touches something, it is pushed onto
the loop, making contact with it. The
rest of the time, no contact is made.
Last, cut the two antennas – these
are about 70mm long with the same
90° bend 5mm from one end. These
are soldered into the empty holes on
the right and left sides of the head.
The antennas are normally just for
decoration but can form part of an
optional power pickup (see panel).
Finally, install the two stabilisers
which prevent the robot from tipping
forward or backward.
These are made from two 80mm
lengths of the heavier brass wire. One
is soldered into either of the two small
pads at the very end of the Cybug
while the other goes to the larger hole
Where do you get it?
Cybug is distributed exclusively
in Australia and New Zealand
by Dick Smith Electronics and is
available at all stores or through
DSE Mail Orders or via their
website, www.dse.com.au
The complete kit sells in Australia
for $71.31 including GST
Here’s what
your finished
Cybug should
look like with
his motors
and wheels
attached, his
feelers, wheels
and front/rear
stabilisers.
right in middle of the head. Bend the
ends of the brass wires into a “J” shape
so the wires won’t jag on anything.
If you wish, a ground wiper wire
can be made from a 50mm length
of guitar string wire, soldered into
the small pad just above the IC. This
will be used if you create a “feeding
station” for your Cybug.
That completes the assembly. If all
is well, it should look much like the
photographs.
All that remains is to check it out.
With the sun high overhead (so as not
to act as a distraction to the infrared
diodes), hold small white objects in
front of Cybug and watch as he lurches towards them.
If he goes the wrong way, you either have the motors connected back
to front (remember we said they had
to cross over) or wired in the wrong
polarity.
What to do next
Try increasing the size of C1 – larger
sizes will produce longer delays between each step but the steps themselves will be much larger.
If you use a much larger capacitor
(many thousands of microfarads) the
robot will take a few seconds to charge
in direct sunlight but will move for
two to three seconds per step.
The instruction book which comes
with the Cybug kit will also give you
some other ideas to try, including a
“feeding station” where he picks up
extra power from a 9V battery.
You could also pick up even more
tips by visiting Cybug's website,
http://members.home.net/cybug SC
SEPTEMBER 2000 83
VINTAGE RADIO
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
HMV’s Nippergram: a classic
1950s portable radiogram
Portable radiograms became popular during
the 1950s and early 1960s and are now very
much collector’s items. One classic from that
era was HMV’s Nippergram.
By the early 1950s, 78 rpm records
had become well established and
listening to music was a popular
pastime. The subsequent release of
33 rpm and 45 rpm microgroove longplay records continued this trend.
These were a quantum leap ahead of
the older 78 rpm records – they had
less surface noise, were lighter and
less fragile, and it was possible to
play upwards of 20 minutes per side.
However, you had to keep them out
of the heat or they buckled.
With multi-stack record changers,
several hours of continuous playing
was achievable. The lounge room
radiogram became an elegant piece
of furniture in many homes, having
taken over from the console radio of
the 20s, 30s and 40s.
In earlier times, it was quite practical to take a wind-up gramophone
out into the backyard to play music
but lugging a lounge room radiogram
outside was an entirely different matter. The answer to this problem lay in
the development of a portable record
player which could easily be taken
outdoors and attached to power via
an extension lead. At the same time,
many young people were starting to
live in flats and other dwelling places with limited space so a miniature
radiogram made a lot of sense. Being
small, its audio output and fidelity
would not be anything to write home
about but at least people could have
their radio and play their records too.
Several manufacturers, including
Kriesler, Astor, HMV and others,
rose to the occasion and produced
their own versions of the compact
radiogram. One of the most famous
was the HMV Nippergram.
The HMV Nippergram
This is the view inside the cabinet of the old Nippergram prior to restoration
(note the buckled turntable platter). A previous serviceman had installed the
turntable the wrong way around.
84 Silicon Chip
HMV produced many fine and interesting pieces of radio equipment
over the years and the Nippergram in
its various models is one of them. As
can be seen in the photographs, the
unit isn’t exactly small but it can be
carried reasonably easily over short
distances.
Unfortunately, when it came to servicing, the radio section in the unit I
was restoring wasn’t all that easy to
remove from the cabinet. First, the
record changer had to be removed
because a couple of screws that secure
the radio in place were too close to the
changer for a screwdriver to be used.
However, in my unit, the changer
had to come out and be overhauled
anyway.
To remove the changer, all the wood
screws around the mounting platform
were removed and then the changer
was eased up by lifting it at the edges.
It’s a bit of a tight fit and takes some
time to do.
Once the changer was lifted clear,
the screws holding the radio in place
could be accessed. These screws (a
total of four) were removed and the
two screws on the outside of the cabinet around the speaker grille (these
release the speaker clamps) were
loosened, after which the set was
gently lifted out.
My next task was to remove the
cables connecting the record changer
to the radio chassis and unscrew the
aerial/earth terminal block at the back
of the cabinet.
With all of these things undone,
all of the innards were lifted clear of
the cabinet. Now all sections could
be worked on. But would you believe
it? – the last person to work on the
unit had put the changer in the wrong
way. Had he installed it correctly, access to the receiver would have been
quite straightforward. Did someone
say something about Murphy’s Law?
It seemed appropriate to commence
restoration with a good clean-up; ie,
cleaning the cabinet inside and out,
the record changer and the set itself.
The cabinet was cleaned with warm
soapy water and a small scrubbing
brush, then left to dry in the sun.
The leatherette finish responds quite
well to this.
When it was dry, vinyl restorer
was sprayed on and rubbed into the
leatherette. This took the tired look
away and the cabinet is now almost
like new – if you ignore the marks that
cannot be removed, such as burn and
scuff marks.
By the way, items treated with
vinyl restorer look nice but can be
rather slippery. A friend used this
product on a bakelite cabinet and it
looked tremendous. However, as he
was moving it, it slipped from his
hands and the cabinet did not bounce
at all well!
The record changer was cleaned
using a tooth brush and soapy water.
This cleans all the gunk off quite well
but you have to proceed carefully, so
that no water gets near the pickup
cartridge or the works underneath.
The receiver was so well protected
from the elements that the chassis
looked as though it had just come
out of the factory. The knobs were the
only things needing a clean and they
The rubber mounts for the motor had perished and had to be replaced. The
mounting position is indicated by the white arrow at bottom right, while the
second arrow indicates the motor itself after removal.
In this photo, the motor has been bolted back into position, following the
replacement of its rubber mounts. A fair amount of time was spent cleaning
the underside of the turntable and oiling the moving parts.
too were scrubbed with a toothbrush
and soapy water.
Restoring the radio
The Nippergram is a 5-valve unit
using a 6BE6 as a converter for both
broadcast and shortwave (6-18MHz),
a 6BA6 455kHz IF stage, a 6AV6 as the
detector and first audio stage, a 6M5
audio output stage and a 6X4 rectifier.
I couldn’t find the exact circuit for the
Nippergram but it appears similar to
SEPTEMBER 2000 85
Fig.1: the HMV Nippergram uses voice-coil negative feedback in the
audio output stage. An incorrect connection resulted in positive feedback and a howling noise from the loudspeaker.
the E43G (some circuits didn’t manage to get published in the AORSM
manu
als) and would appear to be
circa 1952/5.
All the usual problems with circuit
components reared their ugly heads.
Anyone restoring an old set like this
can be sure that there will be several
leaky paper capacitors and this set
was no exception. In fact, even before
I turn a set on I religiously replace
all the critical capacitors – the audio
coupler between the 6AV6 and 6M5,
the AGC/AVC bypasses and usually
the HT RF bypass. I also checked
the resistors and found a few out of
tolerance which I replaced. By the
way, it is often necessary to lift an
end of a resistor out of the circuit for
checking, as any parallel bits will
affect the reading.
Next, the speaker transformer was
checked and in this case it had an
open circuit primary winding and so
This view shows the top side of the changer with the turntable removed. A
stepped pulley on the motor is used to set the turntable speed, via a stepping
mechanism attached to the record speed control.
86 Silicon Chip
it was replaced. I seem to be having
a run of these lately. Having done all
of these things, including checking
for shorts between the HT rail and
chassis, I turned the set on for the
first time.
In order to observe what was happening, I had connected a multimeter
(set to the 400V range) between the
HT line and chassis. As it warmed up
I was greeted by a violent howl from
the speaker. Well at least the audio
output was working!
What was causing the howling?
This set, like many others, uses voice
coil negative feedback. This is accomplished by con
necting the cathode
bypass electrolytic capacitor (C22) to
the unearthed end of the voice coil,
as shown in Fig.1.
The transformer that had been in
the set and the nondescript replacement I used were not colour coded
in the same way, so I had only a 50%
chance of getting the feedback right.
I got it wrong and so had positive
instead of negative feedback, hence
the howl.
Overcoming this problem was
easy – just swap the two voice coil
wires out of the transformer, so that
the one that was earthed became the
unearthed lead and vice-versa.
Now that music was coming from
the loudspeaker, I knew that there
weren’t too many other problems to
be found. However, as a precaution,
I replaced most of the other paper
capacitors, leaving only a couple in
positions where leakage would be of
no concern. For example, the IF stage
valve cathode has a 220Ω resistor from
cathode to chassis, so the capacitor
across it would have had to be very
leaky to cause problems – hence it
was left in.
At this stage, I decided to check the
IF alignment but soon ran into trouble.
The output was up and down like a
yo-yo if I moved or touched anything.
I eventually traced the problem to the
wave-change switch. A hefty dose of
contact cleaner fluid and operating
the control quite a few times cleared
the problem.
Next, I attached a signal generator
with modulated output to the grid
of the 6BE6 and tuned it to around
455kHz to get a response from the set.
I found that the IF was near enough to
455kHz so all I had to do was find out
if the cores were where they should
be. The output was reduced so that
the output from the receiver was just
above the level at which it became
noisy. I tweaked each core with an
insulated adjusting tool and found
that peak performance was achieved
if they were left where they had been.
By the way, a plastic knitting needle
with the end filed flat like a screwdriver blade is ideal as an insulated
alignment tool. If a metal screwdriver
is used, the metal upsets the tuning
and it is extremely difficult to tune
the IF coils correctly.
The dial mechanism was in good
order, needing only a drop of oil on
each of the pulleys. This mechanism
needs to be in good order before any
serious attempt is made to align the
front end of a set. The dial lamps
were all working too, which made a
welcome change.
The next job was the broadcast band
alignment. The stations were found
to be where they should be so the oscillator was spot on and only a minor
tweak to the aerial trimmer around
1400kHz was needed to get the best
performance. In fact, the alignment of
this band was very good considering
the set’s age.
The shortwave band alignment
was quite a different story, with the
oscillator about 1MHz out at 17MHz.
This was corrected and the aerial
trimmer adjusted as well. However,
at the 6MHz end, it was still out by
some way and there is no adjustment.
Oh well, who seriously listens to
shortwave on these sets anyway? After
all, the frequency calibrations are far
from precise at the best of times. In
another article, I’ll go into alignment
in much more detail and discuss how
to correct alignment problems.
In any case, the receiver is now
working well and no valves needed
replacement. Remember when people
used to say “its only a valve” when
they took their valve radio in for
repair?
The record changer
In my opinion, the many later variants of the BSR record changer are
simple, relatively trouble-free and
usually easy to set up so that they
work properly. As you can see from
one of the photographs, there isn’t a
great deal underneath the frame.
Record changers are almost entirely
mechanical devices. There’s only a
small amount electronic circuitry (if
one could call it that) to transform
The HMV Nippergram, fully restored and ready to go. Note the position of the
stabiliser arm now that the turntable has been installed correctly.
the information in the grooves on the
record to an electrical signal for an
audio amplifier to work with.
So how do you get one of these
devices up and running? This can
take some time if years of dust has
impregnated itself into the congealed
grease. The first job is to clean all the
gunk off the mechanism using a rag
and some cotton buds moistened with
household kerosene. I usually start on
the top side.
The turntable was removed by first
removing the circlip at the centre of
the turntable, then gently pulling it
up while turning it clockwise. This
exposed the works under the turntable; not that there is a lot to see here.
Next, the rubber idler pulley was
removed and emery paper used to
roughen up the edge. Sometimes the
rubber on the idler becomes hard
which may mean restoration is difficult or impossible as I’m not aware of
a source of supply.
One problem I found was that the
idler was not contacting the stepped
drive pulley correctly. It didn’t take
long to find out why – the rubber
resilient mounts on the motor had
perished and the motor assembly was
sagging and pulling the pulley out of
position.
The mounts look rather like rubber
grommets but the centre hole is much
smaller. I wondered for a while what
could be used in their place before
remembering that I had bought some
tuning-gang rubber mounts (grommets) some time ago. They turned out
to be almost perfect and only needed
a small plastic sleeve to fill the gap
SEPTEMBER 2000 87
When it’s all folded up, the HMV Nippergram looks very much like a luggage
case. This photo shows the unit before it was given the vinyl restorer treatment,
which made the case look like new again.
between the motor mount spigot and
the inside edge of the grommet. A
photograph shows the motor removed
so that this could be done.
While the motor was out, the bearings were oiled. With some units, it’s
possible to oil them through a small
hole in the side of the bearing case.
The bearings are phosphor bronze and
usually have a felt pad around them
to contain the oil. I undid the screws
holding the bearing in the motor and
this gave sufficient access for oiling.
There were covers over the bearing
assembly but it was possible to flood
the bearings and the felt pads through
gaps in the assembly.
The idler pulley bearing was also
oiled and the motor was then reassembled and fitted back in place. The
stepped pulley on the motor is used to
set the turntable speed, via a stepping
mechanism attached to the record
speed control. This was greased and
oiled after being cleaned. However,
the idler pulley still wasn’t sitting in
the middle of each section of the pulley as selected by the speed control.
This problem was solved by undoing the grub screws on the motor shaft
and shifting the pulley enough so that
the idler contacted the middle of each
section. The pulley and speed control
system were now working well, or so
I thought.
The underside of the record changer
is a bit more complex and it is harder
to see what is really going on. First, the
88 Silicon Chip
congealed grease, gunk and fluff on all
the gears and slides and shafts was
removed. Some areas are not easy to
get at but by using a kerosene-soaked
rag and cotton buds, most of the muck
can be cleaned off.
Having done that, sewing machine
oil was used to lubricate the mechanism and the slides, as appropriate.
The changer was then mounted on
a “servicing board” (to be described
next month) so that its operation
could be observed.
Before applying power, the pickup
The two arrows in
this underside view
of the tonearm point
to the stylus weight
adjustment spring
(top) and to the
drop-in point
adjustment screw.
cartridge was turned midway between
the microgroove and 78rpm positions,
so that the stylus was no longer exposed. The stabiliser arm was then
pulled up and moved to the side (as
when records are going to be loaded)
and the changer operated in automatic
mode at 78rpm.
If the system is sufficiently clear of
gunk, the tone arm will come down
part way across the platter, then
move towards the centre and lift off.
It should then go through this routine
ad infinitum, so that the oil and grease
gradually works its way into all moving and sliding parts.
My unit worked OK at 78 rpm, so
then it was time to see if it operated
correctly at 45 rpm, 33 rpm and 16
rpm. Unfortunately, it didn’t – at least
not initially – and the arm wouldn’t
position itself correctly to drop onto
the selected record size. Obviously
the oil hadn’t penetrated into all the
necessary spots and I also found that
I hadn’t oiled one shaft!
A few drops of oil soon loosened
things up and the arm dropped into
the correct position each time it went
through its cycle. However, the only
way I could stop the unit from stalling
during record changing was to shorten
the spring on the idler pulley, to apply more pressure on the idler/motor
pulley surfaces.
Adjustments
Having got the mechanism working
properly, it was time to adjust the
drop-in position of the pickup stylus
onto the run-in groove on the discs.
This is done by adjusting a screw
under the tonearm, as indicated by
the white pointer in the photograph.
The stylus weight should be around
3-4 grams. This is hard to measure but
a good approximation is achieved by
adjusting the position of the spring
in the holes, this time indicated by a
yellow pointer.
It should be adjusted so that the
pressure is the lowest that will allow
the stylus to track properly and not
skip on the run out groove.
At this stage, I’m still chasing some
rubber to replace the perished platter.
The pick-up head works fine so my
vinyl records can expect to get a go
on the Nippergram. It is a good idea
to change the stylus if you intend to
play records and many different styles
are available from WES Components
SC
in Ashfield NSW.
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Write to: Ask Silicon Chip, PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097.
Design fault in constant
voltage charger
I refer to page 71 of the July 2000
issue of the magazine, describing a
constant voltage charger using an
LM317 regulator.
In the data sheet for the LM317, under the heading of Absolute Maximum
Ratings, it specifies the input-output voltage differential as +40V,
-0.3V. This means that you cannot reverse bias the input/out pins by more
than 0.3V. In fact when an input filter
capacitor is used, they recommend a
reverse-biased diode across the regulator to prevent this happening.
In the charger circuit published, the
input voltage to the regulator goes to
zero every half cycle but the output
remains at battery voltage, thus reverse
biasing the regulator. I am not sure that
the regulator will last too long in this
configuration.
I doubt if a lot of the circuits attached to data sheets have actually
been tried and National Semiconductor engineers make mistakes just like
the rest of us. No doubt in the fine
print somewhere, it will say that it
is up to the user to see that absolute
Using a Peltier device
to cool a CPU
Could the Peltier device you
used in the Esky cooler (September
1999) be used for cooling a CPU?
How about doing an article on
building a Peltier cooler for around
$65 or thereabouts?
With the new Celeron CPU overclocking to 800MHz+, this would
be great. I would like to get the CPU
temperature down to 20°C or better.
(T. A., via email).
• While there is nothing wrong
with the concept of using a Peltier
device to cool a CPU (we looked
at the idea at the time we did the
Esky), the idea has several “logist
ical” problems.
maximum ratings are not exceeded.
Please put my name forward for
“Nit-picker of the month” award.
Free trip to Silicon Valley? (R. W.,
Nathan, Qld).
• In this circuit the input/output pins
can never be reverse-biased because
the input is fed by a bridge rectifier
– no reverse current can flow. And
in the case of an LM317, there is no
equivalent problem with the output/
adj pins either. Sorry we can’t send
you on a free trip to Silicon Valley but
you do get brownie points for trying.
Upgrading the
Discolight
I have just purchased a kit of the
Discolight described in the July &
August 1987 issues. I am wondering
how to upgrade the output stages so
that they will handle 5A loads in each
channel. I need to do this because I
have a number of 600W spotlights I
want to control with it. I am also wondering if I can use the prewound ferrite
chokes from Jaycar (Cat LF-1270) in
the EMI suppression networks so that
I don’t have to wind the chokes. (J. P.,
Toowoomba, Qld).
First, the PC manufacturers/chip
suppliers told us that you would
certainly void the warranty (from
both) if you didn’t use the specified
fan/heatsink – regardless of whether a Peltier device would do the job
better or not.
Second, the mechanical aspect
could be a problem – clamping the
Peltier to the CPU.
Finally, the matter of cost rears
its head. You already get a fan/heatsink with the CPU which would be
redundant and then you’d have to
spend (as you say) at least $60 or
so to replace it.
It didn’t seem like the idea had
any mileage at the time – indeed,
yours is the first request we’ve had
for doing it.
•
The maximum individual incandescent lamp rating we would recommend for the Discolight is 150W.
If you use larger lamps, the chances
are that the specified 8A Triacs will
blow if one of the lamp filaments
blows. The reason for this is that when
the filament in a large lamp blows,
the loose filament ends tend to flail
around and establish an arc between
the main filament stem supports. This
arc current can be very high, as much
as 100A or more – until the stem fuse
in the lamp blows. However, before
the stem fuses blows, the arc current
will blow the Triac.
Commercial lighting desks avoid
this problem with big spotlights by
using 40A Triacs. And that’s what we
did in the 4-channel lighting desk described in the June & July 1991 issues.
So we suggest that you modify the
output stages of the Discolight so that
they are the same as in our 4-channel
lighting desk. The output configuration is identical apart from the bigger
insulated-tab Triacs, bigger capacitors
in the suppression networks and heavier wire in the toroidal chokes.
You cannot use the Jaycar prewound
chokes in the Discolight because they
have ferrite cores instead of the powdered iron cores we have specified. We
have specified powdered iron cores
because they are an integral part of the
EMI suppression networks. The powdered iron cores have a lower Q than
ferrite cores and tend to “damp out”
any oscillations in the filter network.
Note that we have used the same
size Neosid cores in the 4-channel
lighting desk as we did in the Disco
light. However, the lighting desk
toroidal chokes used heavier gauge
wire and a smaller number of turns.
Tacho reads
three times reality
I have just completed assembling
a digital tacho kit as described in the
April 2000 issue. I have been able to
program it for a 6-cylinder Torana XU1
with a points distributor but it seems
SEPTEMBER 2000 89
Building a monster
float charger
I am thinking about building
your 12V float battery charger as
published in your October 1998
issue but I would like to make a
few modifications to it. The first
question regards the trans
former
I plan to use. It has both 12V and
24V taps and is rated at a whopping 16A! I would really like to
use this particular transformer (for
reasons I shall describe latter) but
I feel that because it is only 12V
and your kit uses 15V, there may
be some adjustments needed. The
transformer measures 13V unloaded
but I imagine this will drop when
it is loaded.
I thought that maybe the feed resistors to the base of Q1 might need
to be changed as they monitor the
voltage across the battery. It is stated
that the circuit drops back to trickle
charge when the battery reaches
14V but if the transformer can only
reach a maximum of 13V, it would
seem that the circuit will continue
to charge flat out. Could you please
advise me as to what changes need
to be made if this transformer can
be used?
The second question is regarding
to be reading about three times the
engine speed. At idle, it reads about
3000 RPM when it should be reading
around 800-900 RPM.
I checked the calibration as per the
instructions. I fed 200Hz (my oscillator would only go down to 200Hz)
into the low input, set it for 4-cylinder
operation and read 6000 RPM which
is OK.
In 6-cylinder mode, I measured
at pin 2 of IC2a with a Fluke meter
which reads frequency. The reading
was about 40Hz at idle and IC1 pin
6 read about 120Hz. I set the engine
revs at 3000 RPM and measured about
500Hz at pin 6 of IC1. Have you any
idea as to what may be wrong? (G. H.,
via email)
• The incorrect reading when connected to your vehicle is almost certainly due to false triggering caused
by points bounce. Try shunting the
.056µF capacitor at the input with a
larger value, say 0.1µF to 0.22µF.
90 Silicon Chip
Q4 in the circuit. It is a 2N3055
transistor rated at 15A. Because
I would like to use the circuit to
quickly charge heavy-duty truck
type batteries, it would be good if I
can use the full 16A that the transformer can deliver at the start of the
charging period.
What value and wattage resistor I
should use for “Rs” and what other
components need to be changed due
to the current limit of 16A? Secondly, can I replace Q4 with a more
powerful substitute like an MJ15003
or a TIP35C? (T. B., via email).
• Our guess it that with such a
generously rated transformer you
would not need to change the circuit
at all. The circuit will shut down the
current as the battery voltage rises
because that it what it is designed
to do.
However, if you want to charge
at 16A that is altogether a different
proposition because Q4 can only
dissipate about 10-15W with the
specified heatsink and current limit
figure of 2A. If you wanted 16A you
would need a very large heatsink
and probably at least six transistors
in parallel and each with emitter
resistors to ensure current sharing.
It is really not practical to extend
this circuit in this way.
Suspect PIC in
digital tachometer
I’ve completed the kit for the digital
tachometer from the April 2000 issue
and am having some problems. When
trying to calibrate, I get the expected
“000” and the first seven LEDs in the
bargraph. However, when I press the
mode switch, nothing happens. Is this
a sign that the PIC chip (PIC16F84P)
is blown or is it a problem somewhere
else? I did have some problems initially when I first tested it (ie, a short on
the PC board) but have since replaced
most components and tested the other
ones.
The only other problem I could see
is if I had the switch the wrong way
round but I checked it both ways and
had no response either time. If the PIC
has had it, how can I acquire a new
one that is pre-programmed without
having to buy a whole new kit? (A.
K., via email).
•
It is unlikely that the PIC is damaged. Check that pin 3 of IC1 is normally held high when the switches
are off. You can do this by measuring
the voltage between ground and pin
3 and it should read 5V. If this is not
the case, then there is either a short to
ground at pin 3 or along the PC tracks
leading to the switches.
Alternatively, one of the switches
(Mode, Up or Down) could be oriented incorrectly. Try pulling out all the
switches first and recheck that the pin
3 voltage is now at 5V. The switches
should be inserted with the short circuit connection between the top two
pins and also across the lower two
pins. The connection between the top
and lower pins of the switch should
be a short only when the switch is
pressed.
Boosting the
500W amplifier
I have a question about the 500W
amplifier published in the August
to October 1997 issues. I have a pair
of 65V 1kVA toroidal transformers.
I got them at a very special price.
What would happen if I used these
instead of the 57V 800VA toroidal
recommended for the project? What
modifications would I need to make
to the components to accommodate
the extra rail voltages?
I note that the amplifier is basically
an uprated version of the 175W amplifier of April 1996. This would seem
to suggest that there is room for slight
modifications to cope with the extra
voltage. (P. O., via email).
• Sorry but 65V is just too high. You
would be increasing the overall amplifier dissipation by more than 30%
and there is no way the design could
cope with it.
Using the compressor
for harp recordings
The CD compressor in the June 2000
magazine looks like a good one, with
specifications equal to or better than
many commercial units, and a lot less
expense involved. I was considering
building it into a rack panel, with
inbuilt power supply and using it as
a compressor/peak limiter in a PA
system and for a recording studio. I
play the harp and recording it is quite
difficult. The initial pluck of the string
is a very short loud transient followed
by a gradual delay which plays havoc
with recording and signal processing
systems.
The idea is to limit this initial transient and have minimal effect on the
rest of the signal. Most commercial
compressor/limiters have extra controls such as independent attack and
delay. This would seem to be easy to
do by just installing potentiometers on
the front panel wired up to the attack/
delay circuit, presumably in place of
R1 and R2.
However, commercial units also
have a threshold control which is
adjusted so that up to a predetermined
level, no compression occurs. It would
seem possible to install this feature in
the CD Compressor. Could VR6 be the
correct control to use?
Also I would like to install a “compression meter” as used in upmarket
compressors. It is simply a meter connected to the VCA control input so that
one can see how much compression
is being applied at any one moment.
Would pin 11 of IC2 be the right place,
buffered via an op amp and rectifier,
etc. The reason for this is so that the
input level can be adjusted for the
desired amount of limiting.
I have asked quite a lot so here’s
hoping you can help. (R. H., Mullum
bimby, NSW).
• The attack and decay resistors R1 &
R2 could be changed for potentiometers wired as variable resistors to allow
adjustment of these parameters. The
threshold control VR6 is actually there
to operate the downward expander
and is not suitable as it stands for use
as a threshold control whereby there
is no compression until the threshold
level is reached.
However, you could forego the
downward expansion facility and
change the 2.2kΩ resistor at the output
of diode D5 to a value that does not set
downward expansion; eg, 22kΩ. Then
Notes & Errata
PC-Controlled VHF FM Receiver,
June 2000: the LM385Z isometric
drawing on the circuit diagram
shows the “ADJ” and “-” pins reversed.
40V/1A Adjustable
Power Supply, June/
July 2000: the LM336Z
isometric drawing on
the circuit diagram in
the June issue shows the “ADJ” and
“-” pins reversed.
The correct pinout drawing for
both the LM336Z and LM385Z is
shown above.
Loudspeaker Protector & Fan Controller, August 2000: the base resistor for Q8 on the wiring diagram
(page 59) is incorrectly shown as
2kΩ. It should be 1.5kΩ, as shown
VR6 control can be used to adjust for
compression threshold.
A compression meter could be added to the pin 11 control for IC1 and
IC2, as you suggest.
Vehicle loop
detector wanted
I am looking for a loop detector circuit, similar to those found at traffic
intersections, to use in the control of
an electric gate. I have built up a simple (inductive) metal detector circuit
from a recent issue of SILICON CHIP
but I’m guessing it will need far more
gain and probably a very large pickup
loop for it to detect the presence of a
vehicle reliably.
I may yet have to build up a large
diameter loop and try it but thought
I would ask you the question first.
Do you know of, or have come across
some sort of metal detection circuit
on the circuit diagram (page 55).
Also, the connections to LED1 and
TH2 were incorrect. The connections should be as shown in the
diagram above.
that could be used in this application?
I realise I could take the easy way
out and simply use something optical
but this then may also be triggered by
objects other than cars. I have found
lots of interesting websites with commercially available detectors advertised but, of course, they want an arm
and a leg for them and they provide
no circuit details. Any thoughts or
suggestions? (P. W., via email).
• We have not published a large loop
detector circuit. The recent metal
locator may well form the basis of
a viable circuit and while you will
have to increase the area of the loop
to, say, 0.5m2, it may not be necessary
to increase the sensitivity; after all,
you are going to detect a rather large
lump of metal. In fact, we have seen a
traffic light loop being tested and they
used a 60cm length of steel which they
SC
dragged over the road surface.
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be
carried out according to the instructions in the articles. When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do
not accidentally come into contact with mains AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects
employing mains voltages or other high voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd
disclaims any liability for damages should anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of
SILICON CHIP magazine. Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any
liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims
any liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the Trade
Practices Act 1974 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are applicable.
SEPTEMBER 2000 91
REFERENCE
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SETTING UP A WEB SERVER..........................................$69.00
THE CIRCUIT DESIGNER’S COMPANION........................$65.00
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES...................................$65.00
UNDERSTANDING TELEPHONE ELECTRONICS.................$59.00
AUDIO ELECTRONICS.....................................................$85.00
GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY............................$59.00
EMC FOR PRODUCT DESIGNERS...................................$99.00
THE ART OF LINEAR ELECTRONICS...............................$88.00
INTERNET HOME PAGES MADE SIMPLE........................$27.00
DIGITAL ELECTRONICS ..................................................$65.00
ESSENTIAL LINUX..........................................................$85.00
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UNDERSTANDING TELEPHONE ELECTRONICS
THE ART OF LINEAR ELECTRONICS
By Stephen J. Bigelow.
Third edition published 1997 by Butterworth-Heinemann.
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A very useful text for anyone wanting to
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machines) and much more. Ideal for
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AUDIO ELECTRONICS
$
88
By Lilian Hobbs. First published 1996.
Second edition 1999.
85
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All you need to get started. Create and design
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DIGITAL ELECTRONICS – A
PRACTICAL APPROACH
GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY
59
Eugene Trundle has written for many years in
Television magazine and his latest book is right
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book includes both theory and practical servicing information and is ideal for both students
and technicians. 382 pages, in paperback.
EMC FOR PRODUCT DESIGNERS
By Tim Williams.
First pub
lished 1992.
Second edition 1996.
Widely regarded as the standard text on EMC,
this book provides all the information necessary
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It includes chapters on standards, measurement
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sources. The four appendices give a design
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P&P
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By Eugene Trundle. First published 1988.
Second edition 1996.
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DESIGNING INTERNET HOME PAGES
MADE SIMPLE
By John Linsley Hood. First published 1995.
Second edition 1999.
This book is for anyone involved in designing,
adapting and using analog and digital audio
equipment. It covers tape recording, tuners
and radio receivers, preamplifiers, voltage
amplifiers, audio power amplifiers, compact disc technology and digital audio, test
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ESSENTIAL LINUX
By Steve Heath. Published 1997.
99
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Provides all the information and software that
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including all the interim updates, basic utilities
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FOR SALE
RAIN BRAIN AND DIGI-TEMP KITS:
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ELECTRONIC/MECHANICAL DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION: we offer
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Simply send us an email at vladimir<at>
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WEATHER STATIONS: Windspeed &
direction, inside temperature, outside
temperature & windchill. Records highs
& lows with time and date as they occur.
Optional rainfall and PC interface. Used
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pilots, and weather enthusiasts. Other
models with barometric pressure,
humidity, dew point, solar radiation,
UV, leaf wetness, etc. Just phone, fax
or write for our FREE catalogue and
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(03) 5968 4863; fax: (03) 5968 5810,
PO Box 18, Emerald, Vic., 3782. ACN
006 399 480.
C COMPILERS: everything you need
to develop C and ASM software for
68HC08, 6809, 68HC11, 68HC12, 68
HC16, 8051/52, 8080/85, 8086, 8096
or AVR: $170.50 each. Macro Cross
Assemblers and Disassemblers for
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and monitors: $5280. 8051/52 Simulator (fast, now incl. 80C320): $88. Try
the C-FLEA Virtual Machine for small
CPUs, build a “C-Stamp”. Demo desk:
FREE. All prices + $5.50 p&p.
Atmel Flash CPU Programmer: Handles the 89Cx051, 89C5x and 89Sxx
series, and some AVRs in both DIP
and PLCC44. Also does most 8-pin
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ISP cable. $220 $11 p&p. SOIC adaptors: 20-pin $99, 14-pin $93.50, 8-pin
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Fax 9738 0334. rcsradio<at>cia.com.au;
www.cia.com.au/rcsradio
ROLA AUSTRALIA
PH/FAX (08) 8270 3175
WEB SITE WWW.BETTANET.NET.AU/GTD
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Still the best little performer available!
TRANSMITTER KITS AND MODULES
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NEW: Our MP3-CD player in short form for $169 inc GST.
Includes the following: processor board, front panel display
and tactile keypad; just add a case, cables, 12V power supply
and a CD-ROM drive. Play CDs and up to 2600 MP3’s from a
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Satellite TV Reception
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TV reception in your
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Send for your free info
pack containing equipment catalog, satellite
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May be used with most ppm transmitters. This and many other radio control
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Phone/Fax (02) 9533 3517.
www.silvertone.com.au
AV-COMM P/L, 24/9 Powells Rd,
Brookvale, NSW 2100.
Tel: 02 9939 4377 or 9939 4378.
Fax: 9939 4376; www.avcomm.com.au
Positions At Jaycar
We are often looking for enthusiastic staff
for positions in our retail stores and head
office at Rhodes in Sydney. A genuine
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02 9743 5222 for current vacancies.
KITS KITS AND MORE KITS! Check
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DIY CCTV PAKS
4 Cameras & Switcher ............... $315
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SEPTEMBER 2000 95
Silicon Chip Binders
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Advertising Index
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Investment Technology................11
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Dick Smith Electronics........... 22-25
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Av-Comm Pty Ltd.........................95
Jaycar ................................... 45-52
Kits-R-Us.....................................95
Microgram Computers...................3
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Oatley Electronics........................75
Printed Electronics...................... 95
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Questronix...................................31
ISBN 0 95852291 X
9780958522910 09
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A collection of computer features from the pages of SILICON
CHIP magazine
Rall Electronics............................31
RF Probes...................................31
R.T.N............................................31
SC Computer Omnibus...............19
SC Electronics Testbench..........IBC
Silicon Chip Binders....................96
Hints o Tips o Upgrades o Fixes
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Silvertone Electronics..................95
Smart Fastchargers.....................77
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Telephone Technical Services.....39
HELP SAVE THE NIGHT SKY!
We are losing our heritage of starry night skies. Poor, inefficient
outdoor lighting is causing glare and “light pollution”. This wastes
energy and increases greenhouse gas emissions.
You can help by joining SYDNEY OUTDOOR LIGHTING IMPROVEMENT SOCIETY (SOLIS). SOLIS aims to educate and inform about
quality outdoor lighting and its benefits. We also lobby councils, government and other bodies to promote good lighting practice. SOLIS meetings
are held third Monday night of each month at Sydney Observatory.
Individual membership is $20 pa. Donations are also welcome. Cheques payable
to “SOLIS c/- NSAS”, PO Box 214, West Ryde 2114.
Email: tpeters<at>pip.elm.mq.edu.au
96 Silicon Chip
Truscott’s Electronic World...........77
Vass Electronics..........................31
_____________________________
PC Boards
Printed circuit boards for SILICON
CHIP projects are made by:
• RCS Radio Pty Ltd. Phone (02)
9738 0330. Fax (02) 9738 0334.
• Marday Services, PO Box 19-189,
Avondale, Auckland, NZ. Phone (09)
828 5730.
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