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Australia’s Electronics Magazine
SILICON
SILICON
CHIP
CHIP
SEPTEMBER 2001 ISSN 1030-2662
6
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21 PAGES OF MP3:
What’s
W
hat’s in
in MP3
MP3 for
for you?
you?
Rippers
Rippers and
and Encoders
Encoders
MP3
MP3 I-R
I-R Jukebox
Jukebox To
To Build
Build
PLUS:
Noise
N
oise M
Masking
asking Aid
Aid for
for Tinnitus
Tinnitus
SSnooper
nooper LLong
ong RRange
ange Mic
Mic
PPC-Controlled
C-Controlled PPower
ower SSwitch
witch
Notebooks
SSony’s
ony’s VVAIO
AIO N
otebooks
IImproving
mproving ’’Net
Net SSecurity
ecurity
Newsgroup
Codes
EEmail
mail & N
ewsgroup C
odes
SILICON
CHIP
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Contents
Vol.14, No.8; September 2001
www.siliconchip.com.au
FEATURES
6 MP3: Changing The Way You Listen To Music
MP3 is the new music buzzword. Find out how it works and what’s in it for
you – by Jim Rowe
12 Making MP3s: Rippers & Encoders
Want to make your own MP3s? We show you how with this comprehensive guide – by Greg Swain
16 Sony’s VAIO Notebook Computer
We wanted to keep it but Sony asked for it back – by Ross Tester
88 Writing Articles For Silicon Chip
Do we accept contributed articles? Yes, we do. Here are some general
guidelines to increase your chances of success – by Leo Simpson
92 Newsgroups: Common Terms & Abbreviations
Everything on newsgroups that you wanted to know but were afraid to
ask. Our article lists the terms and the abbreviations.
PROJECTS TO BUILD
24 Build Your Own MP3 Jukebox; Pt.1
Here’s a fantastic way to play your MP3s. It’s based on a PC and features
infrared remote control and an LCD to display track titles – by Peter Smith
Build Your Own MP3
Jukebox – Page 24.
36 PC-Controlled Mains Switch
Build this project and team it with an old PC to control external devices. It
works on anything from a 386 up! – by Trent Jackson & Ross Tester
62 Personal Noise Source For Tinnitus Sufferers
Portable device generates soothing pink or white noise to mask out
unwanted sounds – by John Clarke
70 The “Sooper Snooper”
Listen in on conversations, bird calls, noisy engine bearings or even the
sounds of termites munching into your home – by Ross Tester
COMPUTERS
PC-Controlled Mains Switch – Page 36.
12 Making MP3s: Rippers & Encoders
Want to make your own MP3’s? We show you how with this comprehensive guide – by Greg Swain.
77 Using Linux To Share An Internet Connection, Pt.4
Final article shows how to improve security by shutting down unnecessary
services – by Greg Swain
SPECIAL COLUMNS
57 Serviceman’s Log
From here, there & everywhere – by the TV Serviceman
84 Vintage Radio
The Healing R401E/S401E mantel radio – by Rodney Champness
DEPARTMENTS
2 Publisher’s Letter
4 Mailbag
46 Products Showcase
www.siliconchip.com.au
68 Circuit Notebook
83 Subscriptions Form
98 Ask Silicon Chip
The “Sooper Snooper – Page 70.
101 Notes & Errata
102 Market Centre
104 Advertising Index
September 2001 1
PUBLISHER’S LETTER
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Production Manager
Greg Swain, B.Sc.(Hons.)
Technical Staff
John Clarke, B.E.(Elec.)
Peter Smith
Ross Tester
Rick Walters
Reader Services
Ann Jenkinson
Advertising Enquiries
David Polkinghorne
Phone (02) 9979 5644
Fax (02) 9979 6503
Regular Contributors
Brendan Akhurst
Rodney Champness, VK3UG
Julian Edgar, Dip.T.(Sec.), B.Ed
Jim Rowe, B.A., B.Sc, VK2ZLO
Mike Sheriff, B.Sc, VK2YFK
Philip Watson, MIREE, VK2ZPW
Bob Young
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E-mail: silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
ISSN 1030-2662
MP3 format will change
our music listening
This month we have put a big effort into
producing articles on MP3. The first is the
general article on the MP3 format written by
Jim Rowe and starting on page 6. The second,
written by Greg Swain and starting on page 12,
is more into the nitty-gritty of down-loading
.WAV files and converting them into MP3 format. Finally, the third article by Peter Smith
and starting on page 24, is the first of a series
on building an MP3 player based on an old
computer – not too old mind you, since it needs to be a 133MHz Pentium
or better, with a big hard disk.
In spite of the vast amount of work that we have put into the MP3
articles in this issue, I have mixed feelings about MP3. On the one hand
it is growing enormously in popularity as people use it to download and
copy all sorts of music in a format which is potentially high quality, very
compact and easy to play, although currently available portable MP3
players are an expensive item.
On the other hand, in the form that most people appear to use it,
MP3 is the garbage music medium. In effect, it is the digital equivalent
of the old tape cassette where ease of use won out over sound quality. In
fact, most tape cassettes were recorded without the aid of Dolby noise
reduction which was able to greatly improve the sound quality. And
so it is today. MP3 is a potentially very good sound recording medium
but is mostly used in the more mediocre modes where people get more
recording time and less quality. Partly, people are forced into this situation by the limitations of the hard disk in their computer and the lack
of speed of the internet.
So while some people will accuse me of being elitist, I hate the
idea of a recording medium being used at far less than its optimum. So
in spite of there being rough equivalence between the better modes of
MP3 and CDs, CDs ARE much better than the more compressed forms
of MP3.
We also have the interesting situation where audio manufacturers
are pushing the CD medium to new highs with the development of SACD
(Super Audio Compact Disc) and the DVD manufacturers are pushing
the development of DVD Audio (ie, with six channels of digitally recorded audio). In the meantime, most of the population is supposedly
quite happy to live with much more mediocre sound fare on MP3 and
so on. I suppose there is a parallel here between high definition TV
and the poor quality pictures that most of the population seem quite
happy to watch.
I hope that as time goes on, MP3 will continue to be developed and
that people gradually raise their listening standards to the full potential
of the medium. It can provide a great listening experience – why not
use it to the fullest?
Leo Simpson
* Recommended and maximum price only.
2 Silicon Chip
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September 2001 3
MAILBAG
Practical electric
vehicle wanted
I wish to congratulate you all on a
mighty fine magazine. I am wondering
if you would ever consider designing a project for a practical electric
vehicle, using an ordinary 3-phase
AC induction motor and an inverter
power supply, possibly with IGBTs
and controlled by a PIC. AC induction
motors have the advantage of having
no brushes and are easily obtained.
PICs have all the advantages that you
already know about!
Ian Horacek,
Melbourne.
Comment: we have often mulled over
the idea of a designing an electric vehicle using, as you suggest, a 3-phase
induction motor and a variable frequency/variable voltage supply, possibly running from a 240V battery bank
(no inverter required and we’d use an
American 220V 3-phase motor, rated
at several horsepower).
Even so, this would be a major
engineering exercise, and more so if
you wanted to incorporate dynamic
braking and regeneration. That’s why
we have only thought about it, rather
than actually doing anything. The approach used in golf buggies etc, using
a DC motor, is much more practical.
Widescreen on DVD, PAL vs
NTSC and DVD Zoning
As consumers, are we being conned
with the hype of widescreen format,
especially on DVD? Why I am asking
this is because I was at a friend’s
place a few weeks ago watching ‘What
Women Want’ on video. It was in 4:3.
A week later I hired it on DVD. I accepted the fact that this was presented
in 16:9 wide-screen format but as the
movie progressed I realised it wasn’t
widescreen at all. It was just the 4:3
picture with black bars top and bottom. When I returned the DVD to the
video store I had a few words to say
to the staff, not at them, but about the
industry. I then asked if I could get a
comparison done in store and they
saw what I saw.
Out of curiosity, when Channel 7
screened Titanic recently, I did the
4 Silicon Chip
same test as the DVD is in 2.35:1. Again
the DVD had less picture top & bottom;
ie, foreheads chopped off, etc.
I thought widescreen was supposed
to give more picture on the sides, not
less picture top and bottom. On the
point of 2.35:1, is there something
special about 4:3 as 16:9 is [4:3]2 and
2.35:1 is very close to [4:3]3?
Getting back to my gripe, as a result
of this cropping we appear to be losing 25% of the DVD picture to black
bars in 16:9 and 44% to 2.35:1, so am
I correct in saying that when a 2.35
picture is enlarged to fit on a wide
screen TV, the resolution would be
56% of the supposed 500 lines or about
281 lines?
On another issue, in broadcasting,
PAL is 625 lines while NTSC is 525
lines and claims are made of how
superior the PAL picture is. When it
comes to DVD or Standard VHS, how
can the same claims be made. With
DVD, 500 lines is 500 lines, be it PAL
or NTSC, and 250 for VHS. Wouldn’t
that give NTSC the edge, as it has 30
frames per second to PAL’s 25?
Australia is a PAL country, though I
am noticing more and more DVDs for
sale in the NTSC format. Is this because Zone 4 includes Mexico, which
uses NTSC, and we are receiving their
overflow? Maybe I’m missing the point
and require therapy, or am I right and
brave enough to speak out?
Simon Kareh,
via email.
BWD 820 oscilloscope
schematic wanted
My faithful BWD 820 oscilloscope
which must be late 70s vintage refuses
to sync to any source, even its own
calibration square wave. On inspection, it is easy enough to identify the
relevant section although a quick
meter check of components reveals
no culprit.
Before I embark on the arduous task
of tracing the circuit, I wonder if any
SILICON CHIP reader has a schematic
or know where I could get one?
John Hansen,
12 Maskells Hill Rd, Selby Vic 3159.
vcontrol<at>ozemail.com.au
Unnecessary licensing
is not the answer
I have just read the discussion in
your magazine for July on electric
wiring and thought I would submit my
view. If Australia is ever to become the
“Clever Country”, it must be through
education of the population in the
correct techniques and safety procedures in multi-discipline fields which
include electrical wiring.
In my opinion, unnecessary licensing is not the answer to accident prevention in the gamut of “Occupational
Health and Safety”. We license those
that drive motor vehicles, marine
licensing and pilots to fly aircraft, etc
and accidents still occur in abundance
in all of these areas.
It is in the education of the people
in correct procedures as in New Zealand and other countries and not by
restrictive licensing. If we continue
down the let’s “license everything”
path, Australia will not be known as
the “Clever Country” but as the “cow’s
tail” of the world – always behind.
C. Bird,
Anstead, Qld.
Electrical regulations
are highly discriminatory
Let’s hope the campaign to change
the electrical regulation works so that
the discrimination ends!
Personally, this is a very big threat,
being qualified in electronics and having received extensive training locally
and overseas to handle LV, MV and HV
systems (from 6V to 32MeV) as part of
the job when working on medical diagnostic imagining equipment. I have
in my time worked on substations,
computers, radio, rewound 6.6kV DC
and AC motors used for railway locos
www.siliconchip.com.au
– the complete range of “volts” – and
I am aware of the “bite” you can get.
Yet I see it as discriminatory that I am
effectively not allowed to do what I
have been trained to do, because of
some less than sensibly thought out
legislation.
This borders on the ridiculous, just
the same as I faced trying to get an
electrical licence. I asked the chief
Electrical Inspectors office how I could
get registered as an electrician and was
sent packing, as I am too old to do an
apprenticeship. Apparently this is the
only way I can get a licence!
How discriminatory, as I wanted
to set up my own business and felt
I would “do the right thing” and get
licensed. No go. I can do the work
but have to have a registered electrician come and check it over. Some of
them have never seen the inside of
66kV substation let alone gone in and
cleaned up the mess after one of the
switch racks blew up!
I hope your campaign bears fruit.
T. Bradley,
Ferntree Gully, Vic.
People should not do
their own wiring
I have been reading your publication for 15 years. Nothing struck me
as being quite so silly as the idea of
people undertaking their own house
wiring and repairing their own appliances. In the time I have been an
electrician, I have witnessed some
amazingly dangerous handywork after
someone has” had a go” at something
and then brought it to me for correct
repair. As for the service technicians,
just because you work on TVs and
videos does not mean you can work
on consumer power safely.
To become an electrician, as you
know, takes four years of study and
practice and I can assure you that
there is much to learn. This is not
withstanding industrial electrics,
which is another world entirely. I
feel a bent towards slander at some
of the replies I have read toward electricians from your tech readers but
I can assure you if you don’t know
what you’re doing, as with anything,
you can come unstuck badly. What I
would also like information about is
the insurance company’s point of view
on an unqualified person doing the
wiring. Will they cover you?
I for one would not undertake any
work on a premises that had been
wired by an unlicensed person, insurance and personal safety being
foremost to my mind.
Just in closing, my personal favourite is the one where Joe Bloggs makes
his own extension leads and gets the
Active/Neutral around the wrong
way. He claims it’s fine as the lead
works anyway. If you want to work on
certain things, at least get a restricted
electrical licence for that purpose, so
you are at least conversant with what
you’re doing.
Before you techs jump up and down,
remember that dealing with 0.5A requires a different mindset than dealing
with 50A. Bet you don’t print this.
Peter Raffaelli,
via email.
Comment: 12 months ago, we would
have mostly agreed with you but the
fact that New Zealand, most of Europe
and the US allow people to do their
own wiring shoots your whole argument to pieces.
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September 2001 5
MP3
Changing the way you listen to music
MP3 is the new music buzzword. It
“crunches” bloated audio tracks into
compact files, for playback via your
PC or a dedicated MP3 player. What’s
in it for you? – read on and find out!
By JIM ROWE
D
ESPITE THE JARGON, there’s
nothing magical about MP3; it’s
simply a technique for compressing digital audio, so that it needs
less storage space and is faster to transmit from one place to another – via the
Internet, for example.
In many ways, MP3 is rather like the
JPEG format that’s used to compress
digital image files, so that more of them
can be stored on your PC’s hard disc.
In fact, the MP3 version of a piece of
music can be 12-14 times smaller than
6 Silicon Chip
the equivalent WAV file but still sound
almost identical.
You can get an even better appreciation of just how effective MP3 is
by looking at file sizes. Typically, a
4-minute CD-quality music track occupies about 45MB of disk space in WAV
format but this shrinks to only about
4MB in MP3 format for near-CD sound
quality. That’s a saving of about 40MB
per track or 800MB for a 20-track CD!
If necessary, even greater file compression ratios are achievable – it all
depends on how much sound quality
you’re willing to sacrifice.
Is it legal?
Being able to use a technique like
MP3 to “shrink wrap” music into
much smaller electronic packages
has made it easier for people to swap
music files over the Internet. It’s
this aspect that the music industry
doesn’t like, because the popularity
of MP3 and other digital compression
techniques has resulted in a dramatic
increase in music “piracy”.
However, just because people use
MP3 to illegally obtain (or distribute)
copyright music doesn’t mean there’s
anything illegal about MP3 itself.
MP3 is really nothing more than a
file format and a lot of MP3s that are
available via the Internet are quite
legitimate. MP3s are often posted on
the Internet by new bands as a means
of self-promotion, for example.
You can also make MP3s from
your own audio CDs, LPs and tapes
although, technically speaking, this
can constitute a breach of copyright.
However, many people take the view
that it’s OK to copy provided they own
the recordings and the MP3s are for
personal use only.
There are plenty of software tools
available for “ripping” tracks off an
audio CD and storing them on your
hard disk in WAV format. After that
the audio data has to be encoded in
MP3 format. Some programs only do
ripping while others only do encoding
but there are also plenty of combination ripper/encoders available.
www.siliconchip.com.au
Microsoft’s “Windows Media Player 7” can play MP3s, conventional audio CDs
and a host of other audio formats as well. It includes a playlist editor, supports
extracting track titles from a CDDB and there are a number of interesting
“visualisation” effects to choose from during playback. You can also customise
the appearance of the player by applying different “skins”.
Many of these software tools are
available as freeware or shareware
and can be readily downloaded from
various sites on the Internet. You’ll
also find MP3 rippers/encoders on
computer magazine cover CDs. We’ll
take a closer look at making your own
MP3s later on.
Why compress?
As you’re probably aware, audio
CDs and other digital media store
music as a stream of binary numbers
(ie, 1s and 0s). Each number specifies
the amplitude of the original analog
audio signal at a particular sampling
instant. In the case of an audio CD, the
sampling rate is 44.1kHz – ie, there
are 44,100 samples every second –
for each of the two stereo channels
and each sample is stored as a 16-bit
binary number.
This means that for every second
of a stereo recording, 88,200 of these
16-bit numbers must be stored on the
CD. So when you’re playing the CD,
the digital music “data” has to be read
off the CD at the rate of 1,411,200 (16
x 88,200) bits per second, or about
1.33Mb/s (megabits per second).
In practice, the total data rate when
you’re playing a CD is actually about
three times this, or about 4.3Mb/s,
because additional “housekeeping”
www.siliconchip.com.au
data is needed for error correction,
etc. After decoding and error correction, the 16 bits for each audio sample are fed through digital to analog
converters (DACs), to deliver the two
analog audio signals for a stereo amplifier.
This type of digital recording is
known as “linear pulse-code modula-
The Creative Nomad IIc personal MP3
player connects to your PC’s USB port,
comes with 32MB of RAM and costs
$299 from Dick Smith Electronics.
Also available from DSE is the deluxe
Nomad II model for $398.00.
tion” (or LPCM), because of the way it
saves the samples as “code” numbers
whose binary value corresponds directly to the amplitude of the original
audio at the sampling instant. LPCM
certainly delivers excellent audio
quality but this comes at a fairly heavy
price in terms of data storage space and
transmission time.
Even in its “raw” form as a
WAV file on a computer hard disk,
16-bit/44.1kHz LPCM needs 1,411,200
bits or 176,400 bytes of storage space
for every second of stereo audio. That’s
just over 10MB (megabytes) per minute, which is why you need a big hard
disk if you use your PC to make your
own audio CDs.
You can also see why LPCM isn’t
really suitable for carrying the audio
for digital TV or radio, or for sending music over the Internet. Even a
3-minute pop song would involve
over 30MB of data, which would take
about 93 minutes to download using
your 56.6KB/s modem!
Packing it in
There are two different ways of
compressing digital data. One method
simply involves analysing the data for
redundancy (ie, data repetition) and
then encoding it more efficiently. In
other words, it “packs” it more tightly and efficiently. At the other end,
mirror-image decoding techniques are
used to expand it again, restoring the
original data exactly.
This is known as “lossless” compression and it’s the kind of compression used for squeezing computer data
into “zip” files.
Lossless compression can achieve
fairly large reduction factors with data
that has a lot of redundancy, such as
video (where one field image is often
almost identical to the one before).
But it’s not as effective with data that
doesn’t have much redundancy, like
music or speech.
That brings us to so-called “lossy”
digital compression. It is called
“lossy” because it prevents the data
from being restored exactly to what
it was before – just “near enough” for
practical purposes. These techniques
are based on the idea of “perceptual
coding”, which involves analysing
the data on the basis of what we know
about human perception (sight and
hearing) and looking for content that
either won’t be perceived or is unlikely
continued on page 10
September 2001 7
Psychoacoustics: Fooling The Ear
A
Sound Pressure Level (dB rel. 0.2nBar <at> 1kHz)
S YOU MAY already know, a
typical normal ear’s frequency
response varies considerably over
the audio range and is also quite
dependent on the volume of the
sound. Our hearing is most sensitive
at about 2-5kHz and least sensitive
at frequencies below 100Hz. The
response also varies a lot more at
low volume levels than at high levels.
In other words, our ears are quite
non-linear and have a rather bumpy
frequency response to boot.
More recently, it’s also been discovered that because of the way our
hearing receptor “hair cells” work
inside the ear’s cochlea, the ear isn’t
very good at hearing all of the components of a complex sound. In particular, a loud sound at one frequency
tends to dominate our perception of
all sounds in a band of frequencies,
extending either side of the lound
sound. This is called “masking” and
is illustrated in Fig.1.
What happens is that a relatively
loud sound (signal A) “pulls up” the
ear’s hearing threshold at frequencies on either side, so that if there
are other sounds present in that
frequency band at a lower level
(like sound B), they simply won’t be
heard. Essentially, the lower level
sounds are “masked out”, because
of the way our hearing receptors are
desensitised at frequencies on either
side of sound A.
In practice, the width of this masking effect varies logarithmically with
frequency. For example, a loud sound
at 100Hz masks out other sounds
from 50-150Hz, while another at
1000Hz masks out sounds from 5001500Hz and one at 10kHz masks
frequen
c ies from 5-15kHz. The
higher the frequency, the wider the
masking curve in Hertz – see Fig.2.
The width of these masking curves
also varies with the volume. At low
levels, only frequencies quite close
to the main sound are masked but
the masking widens as the sound
level is increased – Fig.3. This means
that the ear is best at distinguishing
adjacent sound frequencies at low
volume levels.
There’s another aspect of masking,
too. As well as varying with frequency
and volume, masking also varies with
time. So when a fairly loud sound A
starts at time T1 and ends at time
T2, its masking effect doesn’t just
last while it’s present but fades away
relatively slowly after it ends (Fig.4).
It can even start slightly before the
loud sound is perceived – called
“pre-masking”.
This “temporal masking” effect
+120
+100
+80
Masking
sound A
+60
Masking
threshold
+40
Masked
sound B
+20
0
10Hz
Normal hearing
threshold in quiet
1kHz
100Hz
10kHz
Frequency
Fig.1: when you’re listening to a reasonably loud sound, you can’t really hear
quieter sounds nearby — due to the masking effect.
8 Silicon Chip
also varies with the duration of the
masking sound. The masking fades
relatively quickly after brief loud
sounds but takes longer to fade after
long-duration loud sounds.
So it’s been established that weak
sounds at frequencies close to louder
sounds simply can’t be heard. In addition, the masking effect varies with
frequency, volume and time duration
in a fairly predictable way. It’s this
knowledge that is used to program
the operation of perceptual encoders,
like those used for MP3.
Encoder operation
Without going into things too deeply, the encoders operate in two main
ways. First, they decide which audio
components can safely be removed,
because they’ll be masked and inaudible anyway – so they’re perceptually
redundant.
Second, they make decisions regarding how many (or how few) bits
need to be used to encode the audio,
on a dynamic “instant by instant”
basis. To allow this to be done, the
analog signal is not converted to
digital samples as a single entity but
is first filtered into a set of frequency
sub-bands – typically 32 – with bandwidths of about 1/3 of an octave. The
signal components in each sub-band
are then sampled independently and
the encoder then analyses each of
their amplitudes.
Then, by predicting the way the ear
will handle each of these sub-band
signals and the interaction between
them, the encoder decides how many
bits are needed to convey each one
with sufficient accuracy and clarity.
Louder sub-band components will
be encoded with a larger number of
bits and softer components with a
smaller number of bits. Sub-bands
where the signal level is below the
threshold of hearing aren’t even encoded at all.
This is called “adaptive sub-band
coding”.
What’s the point
But what’s the point? Well, you’ll
recall that LPCM uses a brute-force
www.siliconchip.com.au
Varying the bits
On the other hand, by combining
sub-band coding with a knowledge
of the ear’s behaviour, it becomes
possible to vary the number of bits
used to encode each of the signal
components, so that the quantising
noise in each sub-band is still kept
below the ear’s threshold of hearing
(taking into account the effects of
masking). This is done dynamically,
so that the number of bits needed
to convey the signal is not fixed but
varies up and down, depending at
any time on the signal itself.
The net result is a dramatic reduction in the total number of data
bits needed to store or transmit the
audio, but with almost no “perceptible”
difference in the sound of the signal
decoded at the other end.
Note that the decoded audio signal may well end up lacking many
components or details that were in
the original and may also have quite
a bit of additional noise due to the
cruder sampling of quieter signal
components. But the crucial point
is that these shortcomings are near
enough to inaudible.
If all this sub-band filtering, analysis and adaptive coding sounds pretty
complicated, that’s because it is. In
fact, this whole approach to signal
compression only became feasible
in the last 15 years or so, with the
development of digital filtering and
www.siliconchip.com.au
Sound Pressure Level (dB rel. 0.2nBar <at> 1kHz)
+120
+100
Masking
thresholds
+80
+60
+40
+20
0
10Hz
Normal hearing
threshold in quiet
1kHz
100Hz
10kHz
Frequency
Fig.2: the width of the masking threshold “skirts” varies logarithmically with
frequency.
Sound Pressure Level (dB rel. 0.2nBar <at> 1kHz)
approach, with fixed-length 16-bit
numbers to represent every sample
of the signal regardless of its amplitude. This gives low “quantising
noise” (theoretically -96dB below
maximum level, for 16-bit sampling)
and hence a large dynamic range. If
we reduce the number of bits used
to represent each sample, this lowers
the amount of digital data being sent
but the sampling would be cruder – ie, the quantising noise would
increase.
In fact the noise increases by 6dB
each time we use one less bit, so if
we drop to only 8-bit sampling we get
a signal-to-noise ratio of only 48dB.
So although 8-bit LPCM gives half
the file size and transmission time of
16-bit LPCM, it also sounds pretty
terrible. And 4-bit LPCM would be
even worse.
+120
+100
100dB
+80
+60
80dB
+40
60dB
+20
0
40dB
Normal hearing
threshold in quiet
20dB
10Hz
1kHz
100Hz
10kHz
Frequency
Fig.3: the shape of the masking curve also varies with the volume of the
masking sound, being much wider for loud sounds.
Fig.4: masking
also varies with
time, taking
quite a while
to fade after a
loud masking
sound ends.
signal processing techniques.
It certainly wasn’t possible back in
the old analog days but now it can all
be done digitally by some dedicated
LSI chips or software running on a
PC.
September 2001 9
MP3
Changing the way you listen to
music – ctd from page 7
to be missed if it’s removed.
The data that’s judged as “perceptually redundant” is then removed,
allowing the remaining data to be
compressed considerably. In other
words, some of the audio information
is “thrown away” on the basis that you
won’t be able to hear the difference.
By the way, lossy and lossless compression aren’t mutually exclusive
– you can use them both together, for
even more efficient data reduction. It’s
this kind of “double shot” compression that’s used to squeeze up to two
hours of digital video and 5.1-channel
audio on a DVD and to pack up to 74
minutes of high quality stereo on a
MiniDisc.
It also happens to be the kind of
compression used in MP3, to crunch
down digital audio files by a factor of
10-14 times or more.
But how does the perceptual encoding part of lossy compression actually
work? And how does the audio encoder decide which parts of the data can
be safely chopped out, without being
missed? Take a look at the accompanying panel on psychoacoustics to find
out more on this subject.
MPEG-1, Layer 3
Now we’ve looked at the broad
principles on which digital audio
compression are based, let’s turn our
attention to MP3 itself. By the way its
full official name is “MPEG-1 Layer
3”, which reveals that it’s one implementation of the group of digital data
compression technologies known as
MPEG-1, developed and standardised
by the Motion Picture Experts Group.
MPEG-1 began as a technology to
compress digital audio and video so
they could be stored on CDs – ie, for
video CDs. As such, MPEG-1 audio
encoding was developed from two
earlier technologies called MUSICAM
(Masking-pattern Universal Sub-band
Integrated Coding And Multiplexing)
and ASPEC (Adaptive Spectral Perceptual Entropy Coding).
There are essentially three “layers”
of MPEG-1 audio encoding, each involving a different level of processing
complexity and offering a different
degree of compression or “data reduc
tion”. Layer 1 is the least complex in
10 Silicon Chip
terms of processing and is designed
for applications that don’t need a huge
amount of data reduction. It reduces
the audio data by about 4:1 and needs
a data rate of about 384kb/s to give
stereo reproduction of near-CD
quality.
Layer 2 involves more
complex processing but
reduces the audio data
by between 6:1 and 8:1.
It gives near-CD stereo
repro
duction at data
rates of 192kb/s and
above. Layer 2 is used
for the audio on video
CDs and for digital TV
audio.
Layer 3 (ie, MP3) involves the most
complex processing, but also achieves
the highest degree of data reduction – between 10:1 and 12:1. This
allows it to provide near-CD stereo
reproduction at data rates of 112kb/s
or 128kb/s, or “FM stereo” quality at
64kb/s (21:1 reduction). Even a data
rate of just 32kb/s can give respectable “AM mono” quality, with 15kHz
sampling and a bandwidth of about
7.5kHz –see Table 1.
Obviously, the big appeal of MP3
is this ability to give near-CD quality
stereo with files only 1/12 the size of
LPCM files, or FM stereo quality with
files half that size again. That’s why it’s
become so popular for downloading
music files over the Internet – because
an MP3 file of a typical 3-minute song
might take only seven or eight minutes
to download, instead of 90 minutes or
so for the equivalent WAV file.
This also makes MP3 files very
attractive for storing music on a PC
Looking for MP3 music software? If
so, www.mp3.com is the place to go.
Iomega’s HipZip MP3 player
uses 40MB PocketZip disks
as the storage medium.
hard disk or in the memory chips of a
portable MP3 music player. As stated
earlier, MP3 lets you cram a complete
4-minute track into just 4MB for nearCD quality but if you’re happy with
lower quality, it can be even smaller.
MP3 for all
How can you take advantage of MP3
yourself? Well, there’s two fairly easy
ways to get MP3 music files.
One way of getting MP3s is to
download them from the Internet, from
the many web sites that specialise in
making MP3 files available. Popular
sites for this are www.mp3.com, www.
scour.net and www.riffage.com but
be warned – they’re often very busy
and your browser may not be able to
access them.
One obvious drawback here is
that the web sites may not have the
particular pieces of music you want.
They’re a bit of a lucky dip in this
regard.
The other main way to get MP3s is
to make them yourself (see “Making
MP3s”), by converting the tracks on
existing audio CDs, LPs and tapes.
This involves using a PC with a CDROM drive plus some readily available
software. It’s a two-step process: you
first turn the music into a WAV file
(known as “ripping”), then encode
it into an MP3 file (the “encoding” stage).
To convert a track from an audio
CD, for example, you first need to
read the track and save it on your
hard disk as a WAV file. This can be
www.siliconchip.com.au
done using either one of the common
music editing programs (like Cool Edit,
Sound Forge or CD Spin Doctor) or a
ripper program. Many of these can be
downloaded from the Internet, from
sites like www.mp3.com
Similarly, with a track from a tape or
LP record, you again have to use one of
the music editing programs to record
it through your sound card.
Once you have the music on your
hard disk in WAV file form, you
then use an MP3 encoding program
to produce the MP3 equivalent file.
Again there are many MP3 encoding
programs that you can download from
the net. Alternatively, you can get a
combined ripper/encoder that does
everything in one seamless operation.
Silicon Chip’s MP3 Jukebox
Our MP3 Jukebox is
basically a standard PC
fitted with an infrared
remote control receiver
and an LCD screen to
display the track titles.
The universal remote
control handpiece lets
you select from up
to 99 playlists, each
containing up to 199
songs – just by pressing
the buttons.
Playing MP3s
Once you have the music you want
in MP3 form, there are various ways
you can play it. One way is to play it
on your PC via its sound card and amplifier/speakers, using an MP3-capable
software program. If you’re running
Windows 98/Me/NT, the latest Windows Media Player will play MP3
files directly (as well as conventional
audio CDs).
Alternatively, you can use a freeware MP3 player such as “Winamp”.
As before, you can download
these players from web sites like
www.mp3.com or from a computer
magazine CD-ROM.
Another approach is to record the
MP3 files on a CD-R disc, using your
CD-writer drive and a program like
“Easy CD Creator”. You can then play
the files from the disc, either on your
PC using Windows Media Player or
Winamp, or on one of the latest DVD
players that can play CD-R discs with
MP3 files.
MP3 on the move
Yet another approach is to download
the MP3 files from your computer into
one of the shirt-pocket sized portable
MP3 players, like the Diamond Rio 500
or 600, or the Creative Labs Nomad II.
Many of these players have a USB port,
so you can download the files into the
player’s memory chips or card quite
quickly. Most of the players can store
up to an hour or so of high-quality
128kb/s stereo.
In short, MP3 is quite a useful tool
for making digital audio widely available in surprisingly compact form. No
wonder it’s become so popular! SC
www.siliconchip.com.au
H
ERE’S A FANTASTIC WAY to play your
MP3s. What we’ve done is design a remote
control receiver and LCD display that plugs into the serial (RS232) port
of your PC and is controlled by a universal remote control.
An accompanying software program interfaces the unit with Winamp. With
this setup, you can play your MP3s by remote control and all the track data
is displayed on the LCD. The remote can select between 99 playlists, each
listing up to 199 songs.
You can either build the remote control receiver directly into your PC or
mount it externally. In fact, it doesn’t even have to be in the same room as
your PC. Instead, you could mount the remote control in your loungeroom
and connect it via a serial (RS232) cable to a PC located in an adjacent
room – eg, a bedroom or study.
Of course, you would also have to run audio cables to connect the output
from your PC’s soundcard back to your amplifier. You have to keep these
cables short, though – any more than 4-5 metres and you could quickly run
into hum and stability problems (not to mention high-frequency losses).
One neat solution is to use a dedicated PC as an MP3 Jukebox. This could
be sprayed charcoal gray and mounted next to your existing hifi gear. Once
it’s working, you don’t really need a keyboard, mouse or monitor, since our
remote control setup lets you power the unit down when not in use (provided
you have an ATX motherboard, that is).
In short, it’s up to you how you use the remote control unit. The first article
on our MP3 Jukebox is on page 24 of this month’s issue.
September 2001 11
Making MP3s:
Rippers & Encoders
By GREG SWAIN
I
N ORDER TO MAKE your own MP3s you’ll need
ripping and encoding software. A combined
ripper and encoder that can extract tracks from
a CD and convert them into MP3 format in one
seamless operation is usually the most convenient.
However, there’s nothing to stop you from using
one program to rip the tracks to WAV files and then
using another program to convert them to MP3
format, if that’s what you prefer.
You’ll also need a reasonably fast PC with a modern
CD-R that’s capable of digital audio extraction (these CDRs are normally branded DA). If the CD-R doesn’t offer
digital audio extraction, the sound must be sampled via
the sound card and this gives somewhat lower quality
(depending on the card itself).
The main factor to consider when making MP3s is the
bit rate. Higher bit rates produce better sound quality
but they also create larger files. Table 1 on page 6 shows
the bit rate options that are commonly available and the
resulting sound quality.
Generally, the settings to go for are: 128kb/s bit rate,
44.1kHz sampling and stereo – see Table 1. This will
give good-quality sound but at the same time keep file
sizes down, with a compression ratio of about 10.5:1. By
contrast, a bit rate of 192kb/s gives a compression ratio of
about 7:1, which means that the file sizes are about 50%
bigger than at 128kb/s.
That mightn’t sound like a lot but it can be important if
you’re trying to squeeze the maximum number of tracks
into the memory of a portable MP3 player.
If file size isn’t critical, try increasing the sampling
rate from 128kb/s to 160kb/s. This will give slightly
better sound quality for only slightly larger file sizes.
There can also be variations between different MP3
encoders, so you might like to experiment here. The
Lame, Fraunhofer and Blade encoders are all reputed
to produce good results.
Most encoders set the sampling according to the bit
rate selected. However, some of the fancier encoders
give you a choice of sample rates – eg, 16kHz, 24kHz,
32kHz, 44.1kHz and 48kHz. Audio CDs have a sample
rate of 44.1kHz, so there’s usually nothing to be gained
by going higher than this. Lower sampling rates will
reduce the file size but high-frequency losses quickly
become noticeable.
Some encoders also have a variable bit rate (VBR)
option. When selected, this allows the program to automatically vary the bit rate according the frequencies
present, so that the file size is kept to a minimum.
Encoders with this feature also often let you set the
minimum bit rates.
Typical ripper/encoders
Not looking to spend any money? Then take a look at
CDex v1.40 (Beta6) – see Fig.1. This freeware MP3 ripper/
encoder offers all the functions you could want, including
the ability to rip tracks off a CD and save them in WAV or
Fig.1: CDex 1.4 (Beta 6) is a freeware ripper/encoder program that’s easy to drive and has lots of features. You can bring
up the track titles by querying the CDDB over the Internet or by manually editing each track title in turn.
12 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: Audiograbber 1.8 is a comprehensive ripper/encoder but it
will cost you $US25 for the non-crippled version.
MP3 format in one operation. It can also convert existing
WAV files on your hard disk to MP3s and even convert
MP3s to WAV files, in case you want to record your MP3s
in a format that can be read on a conventional audio CD
player (eg, in your car).
There’s also support for different bit rates (including
VBR) and there’s a selection of inbuilt encoders (CODECs)
to choose from. The default is the Lame MP3 encoder
which gives excellent results. An interesting option is the
inclusion of the Windows WMA encoder, which produces compressed files that can be played on the Windows
Media Player.
It’s easy to use. To rip files off an audio CD, you simply
load the program and place the CD into the drive. This
brings up a list of tracks as shown in Fig.1, after which
you can select one of more tracks and convert them to
WAV or MP3 format.
The track titles in Fig.1 are shown as AudioTrack 01,
AudioTrack 02 and so on but you can rename them before
ripping by right-clicking each file in turn and typing in
the correct track title.
If that sounds like a lot of work (and it is), there’s an easy
way out. In common with many other ripper/encoders,
CDex supports a feature called “CDDB”, or CD Database.
This is basically an Internet database that identifies the
CD and automatically supplies the track titles, the CD
title and the name of the artist.
In fact, there are two CD databases that you can use –
cddb and freedb – and CDex uses the latter by default.
Of course, you need an Internet connection in order to
query a database. And that’s where there’s a trap – if you
enable the “auto-connect” feature in CDex, the program
will automatically dial out and connect as soon as the
CD is loaded. Unless you have a perma
nent connection, you’re much better off just clicking the “CDDB”
button on the righthand edge of the window when
you’re ready.
An alternative is to use the CDDB that’s supplied with
some CD-ROM burning software. In the case of Nero 5,
for example, you just copy the cddb.zip file to your hard
disk, unzip it (you’ll need about 130MB of free disk space)
www.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.3: Audiograbber’s “MP3 Settings” dialog
lets you adjust the bit rate and choose the
encoder to be used. If you want an internal
encoder, just copy lame_enc.dll to the same
folder as “audiograbber.exe”.
Fig.4: this dialog appears during the MP3
conversion process in Audiograbber.
and then enter the path to this file in the relevant setup
window of your MP3 encoder.
ID3 tagging
Another feature offered by CDex is ID3 tagging. This
allows you to enter in text information about each track
– eg, the track title, artist, year and comments – which is
then subsequently displayed by the MP3 player. The ID3
tags are written to the end of each MP3 file.
Creating a playlist
How do you get you MP3 player to automatically play
a list of MP3s?
Answer – you need to create a “playlist”. This is nothing more than a text file that contains a list of MP3s and
you can add or delete tracks from the playlist simply by
editing this file using a text editor such as Notepad. You
can also rearrange the order in which the tracks are played
and change the track title information that’s displayed by
the MP3 player.
You can also pull some rather neat tricks with the
playlist. Want the MP3 player to repeat a particular track
September 2001 13
several times? That’s easy – just add multiple entries of
this track into the playlist.
As with many other MP3 encoders, CDex can automatically generate a playlist for you at the end of the MP3
conversion process. This creates a file called “playlist.
m3u” (all playlist files have a .m3u extension) that lists
all the files that you’ve just converted. The playlist is automatically updated if additional tracks are subsequently
ripped and encoded as MP3s.
You don’t have to use a text editor to edit the playlist,
by the way. Some MP3 players, such as Winamp, include a
playlist editor that makes the job easy. It’s also possible to
edit the track titles before ripping using the MP3 encoder
software, as pointed out previously.
Audiograbber
Another excellent MP3 encoder is Audiograbber v1.8
– see Fig.2. This offers all the features of CDex and a few
more besides, although it doesn’t include an inbuilt MP3
encoder. That’s easily overcome by downloading and copying LAME’s freeware MP3 encoder DLL file (lame_enc.
14 Silicon Chip
dll) to the same folder as “audiograbber.exe”. You will
then have an internal MP3 encoder that goes all the way to
320kb/s. Lame_enc.dll is available from www.dkutsanov.
chat.ru or you can simply download and unzip CDex.zip
(see panel) to obtain a copy.
Alternatively, you can use an external encoder such as BladeEnc. This is available as freeware
from www.bladeenc.mp3.no – just point Audiograbber’s encoder settings to the folder that contains the
BladeEnc.exe file.
Unfortunately, the trial version of Audiograbber has
been crippled so that you can rip only half the tracks on a
CD in a single session. These tracks are randomly selected
each time you insert the CD. It’ll cost you $US25 for the
full working version.
AudioCatalyst is essentially an updated version of
Audiograbber and includes its own MP3 encoder. Once
again, the trial version is crippled but $US29 restores all
the features.
There are lots of other MP3 ripper/encoders available,
including Earjam IMP, Easy MP3, Sonique, Easy CD-DA,
www.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.5: Winamp is a clever media player (MP3, CD audio,
etc) that comes for free! Handy features include support
for CDDB and a Playlist Editor (bottom).
Fig.6: want to give Winamp a different appearance from
the standard fare? Easy – just download and apply a new
“skin”. This one is called “Spilt Milk”.
Musicmatch Jukebox, Audio Converter and MP3 Creator,
to name just a few.
MP3 players
You can use the Windows Media Player for playing
back MP3s on your PC but our favourite is the freeware
program Winamp (Fig.5). This versatile program boasts
a Playlist Editor, an Equalizer, an inbuilt spectrum
analyser and even a Minibrowser that lets you search
web sites for MP3 files. Naturally, all the “normal” CD
player controls are these, along with a volume control,
a balance control and a shuffle control (oh yes, it also
plays audio CDs).
You can even change the look of the graphics by downloading and applying “skins” – see Fig.6.
Using Winamp to replay MP3s is a “no-brainer” – just
click the Play button and navigate to the folder where
your MP3s are stored. Once there, you can either choose
to play a single MP3 file or you can load a playlist (.m3u)
file so that all the tracks in the playlist are played automatically.
Alternatively, double-clicking on an MP3 file
or on a playlist (.msu) file automatically starts the
Play function.
Clicking the little sinewave symbol at the top left of
Winamp brings down a menu that also lets you Play files
and launch the Playlist Editor, the Equaliser and the Minibrowser windows. These windows cleverly snap together
and both the Playlist and Minibrowser windows can be
resized by dragging.
The Winamp and equalizer panels can be shown
www.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.7: there are lots of easy-to-follow options when
it comes to configuring your copy of Winamp.
double-size by choosing this option from the Options
menu.
The buttons along the bottom of the Playlist Editor let
you edit the entries (add, remove, sort, edit track titles
and ID3 tags, and save new playlists). You can also edit
the track titles and ID3 tags by right-clicking the file in
the playlist and choosing the appropriate option from
the menu.
Similarly, right-clicking on the Equaliser and on the
Winamp player itself brings up other menu options. Really, it’s a lot more complicated in the telling than in the
doing and 30 minutes is all it takes to come to grips with
SC
this intuitive and clever program.
September 2001 15
Sony’s
Notebooks
by
Ross Tester
Around the middle of
last year, Sony introduced its new range
of VAIO Notebooks.
Now, twelve months
later and with several
new models on the
market, we thought
it about time to
have a closer look
at these intriguing
machines.
W
hen Sony launched the
VAIO computer range on
the market, they described
them as a “new concept” in personal
computing.
Was this just more marketing hype,
or were they really something different? And that name, VAIO: what
does it mean? To the uninitiated, it
sounds like some sort of pathway. But
to where?
In fact VAIO is an acronym for Video
Audio Integrated Operation. That in
itself gives a pretty good clue as to this
16 Silicon Chip
computer’s likely application: video
and audio.
In fact, that is precisely where I had
my first introduction to the VAIO.
During July and August last year, Sony
VAIO computers were used extensively
by NSW TAFE (Technical and Further
Education) who were contracted by the
Sydney Olympic Games Organising
Committee to provide training to the
47,000 Olympics volunteers (and later
the Paralympics Volunteers).
As one of those trainees, I was impressed! The standard of audio/video
presentation was outstanding – an
excellent mix of video and Powerpoint-style “slideshows” which were
shown to groups ranging in size from
just a few up to many thousands via
A/V projectors.
I noticed at the time of training that
name, VAIO, and wondered then what
the significance of it was. It was only
after the hectic period of the Games
was over that I started to look a little
deeper.
And then in the July issue of SILICON CHIP Jim Rowe’s article on Digital
www.siliconchip.com.au
Audio Amplifiers jogged the memory
“. . . have true digital audio amps, as
does Sony’s new Playstation 2 and its
VAIO handheld computers. . .”
So we thought it might be opportune
to have a closer look at one of these
machines, particularly with regard to
its graphics, video and sound handling
capabilities. Sony were more than
happy to lend us one of the models
and so, before long, we were playing
with a Sony VAIO FX770K.
Now this is by no means Sony’s topof-the-line VAIO but it does come with
some rather impressive specs. It wasn’t
the graphics/video/sound oriented
machine we had hoped to look at but
is more a business-oriented product,
albeit with pretty good performance
in the graphics, video and sound areas.
Hardware
The microprocessor in this particular model is a 650MHz Mobile Intel
Pentium III Processor featuring Intel
SpeedStep Technology (more on this
shortly), running with an Intel 815
EM chip set integrated graphics accelerator. The system bus is a standard
100MHz and it comes with 128MB
of SDRAM and 32KB/256KB of cache
memory (on chip).
The hard drive is 20GB, divided
into two 10GB logical drives and it
sports an 8x DVD-ROM drive (which
obviously also plays CDs – at up to
20x). There is a single type III PC card
slot (or two type II) and it supports
Cardbios.
Other interfaces included are the
standard 15-pin monitor, 25-pin
parallel and 9-pin serial ports, plus
two USB connectors, a 4-pin iLINK
(IEEE 394) port and 3.5mm jacks for
microphone in (mono) and headphone
out (stereo). There is also an inbuilt
100 Base-T/10Base-TX Ethernet port
built in.
i.LINK, by the way, is a bi-directional digital interface for exchanging
data, such as digital video clips and
sound files, between devices that have
i.LINK connectors, or for controlling
other devices.
An upgraded model, the PCGFX770TK, also has a built-in modem
for accessing the Internet, point-topoint data communication, and so on.
The floppy disk drive is removable
(in fact, it is a normally supplied “option”. Removing the floppy drive (a
two second operation) allows its port
www.siliconchip.com.au
From the left, the ports are USB, serial, parallel, external monitor and network
(100 base-T or 10 base-T), with another USB port and DC power on the right.
Here’s a close-up of the audio/video ports: the red socket is microphone, green is
earphones or external (powered) speakers. Next is the i400 i-link port while the
two buttons alongside release the PC-cards from their bays at right.
to be used by other (optional!) devices.
Software
Reflecting the machine’s target business market, the operating system is
Windows 2000 Professional, claimed
to be the most stable Windows operating system yet. Some might argue
that point!
Other software included with
the machine is DVgate 2.2, Movie-Shaker 2.0, Sony Notebook Setup,
Picture-Gear 5.0, Smart Capture 4.1,
OpenMG Jukebox 2.0, Smart Connect
3.0, Smart Connect Monitor 1.0, DVD
Region Setting Utility, Adobe Acrobat
Reader 4.0, Adobe Premiere 5.1LE,
Quick-Time 4.1, Real Player 7 Basic,
McAfee VirusScan and WinDVD 2000.
LCD and keyboard
On opening the VAIO and powering
it up, arguably the most striking feature
is the big, beautiful 14.1-inch (35.8cm)
LCD colour TFT display capable of
XGA (1024 x 768) resolution. Because
it’s LCD, you tend to view this screen
closer than you would a typical CRT
monitor. It is very clear and crisp and
even after extended use I didn’t find
it at all tiring.
Of course, you could plug in an
external monitor and get up to 1400 x
1050 resolution.
One of the common misconceptions
about notebook computers is the size
of their keyboards. Many people think
that they are smaller than standard
desktop keyboards but, with very few
exceptions, they are the same size
(they have to be, otherwise you’d make
too many typing mistakes!).
If you don’t believe us, measure,
say, the numeral keys from 1 to 0 on
your computer keyboard. From outside edge to outside edge, I’ll bet it’s
around 185mm. On the Sony, as on
most notebooks – 185mm!
Of course, notebooks sacrifice the
numeric keypad and function keys
The other side of the case has the removable floppy disk drive (left) and the DVD
player at right, shown here partially open. The touch-pad “mouse” can also be
seen in this shot (middle left). The pad on the right is the touch-sensitive one
while the two pads below it simulate left and right mouse buttons.
September 2001 17
Some of the “help”
files are, in my
humble opinion,
woefully inadequate.
Here is the
information you get
on how to connect
the computer to your
network –
basically, all it says
is “plug it in”. For
any more help you
are supposed to
contact the system
manager of the
network. What if
you don’t have one?
By the way, Sony are
not alone here: help
is becoming less and
less helpful amongst
most
hardware and
software!
of desktop keyboards. For those who
want a “numeric” keypad (eg, for fast
data entry), the Sony places it on the
M, JKL, UIO and 789 keys, activated by
the “num lk” key. The various function
keys are located on three sides of the
alpha/numeric keys – it doesn’t take
very long at all to get used to their
locations.
The normal mouse is replaced by a
touch-sensitive pad. Draw your finger
over the pad and the on-screen cursor
follows the movement. Two large
switch pads underneath the touch
pad simulate the left and right mouse
buttons. It takes a bit of getting used to
when you’ve used a mouse for twenty
years (especially on drop-down menus!!!) but in time, I believe it could be
quite enjoyable.
Sony is fairly noncommital about
the type of graphics firmware – the
spec simply says “hi-speed graphic
accelerator”. It is based on Intel’s
815EM integrated chipset. In this
particular VAIO there is no separate
video memory – it shares up to 11MB
with the main memory.
The audio system is Windows Sound
System compatible, AC97 compliant
and features a software MIDI sound
generator, 3D sound function and has
the previously mentioned digital amplifier with a pair of inbuilt speakers.
On this point, we have to be somewhat critical: we believe one of the
main uses for a machine such as this
is on-the-job presentations – say,
for example, an advertising agency
wanting to present a new campaign
18 Silicon Chip
to a client. The audio simply isn’t
loud enough! And even with ’phones
plugged in, you could hardly describe
it as mind-blowing. A pair of amplified
speakers would solve the problem – but
that’s something else to carry around.
Incidentally, audio level, screen
brightness and other functions are all
controlled via the keyboard: audio, for
example, is a “Fn” and F4 key combination, followed by right or left arrows
to increase or decrease the volume
(mimicked by an on-screen icon).
Having the inbuilt network adaptor
was a joy – I wanted to transfer some
files from my office PC to the notebook
and vice versa – it was simply a matter
of plugging the Sony in, setting a few
parameters and it talked to the network
with no worries.
I didn’t get a chance to fire up any
USB devices, mainly because I didn’t
have a suitable cable on hand. But
with two USB ports included, the Sony
VAIO would have no problems communicating with other USB devices.
Dual speed
One interesting feature of this particular notebook, which uses Intel’s
“Speedstep” technology, is its automatic changeover to a lower-power
mode on battery. With the AC adaptor
plugged in, the machine operates at its
maximum 650MHz. But if you unplug
power, the screen automatically dims
and the machine switches to “battery
optimized performance”, dropping the
CPU speed down to 500MHz.
The battery is a 14.8V/1700mAh Li-
ion type which can be swapped over.
Incidentally, a fully-charged battery is
rated to last 1.5 to 2.5 hours, depending on usage.
The computer has an automatic
“hibernate” mode when the battery is
nearly exhausted, saving current work
and settings to the hard disk drive
before effectively turning itself off.
From this point, nothing is lost when
either the battery is recharged or the
computer is run on AC. It also has a
“standby” mode which shuts down
most functions to save power (for example, if you are taking a break) but
if the battery discharges completely in
this mode, current work and settings
would be lost.
The AC adaptor is universal – 100
to 240V 50/60Hz so you can take it
virtually anywhere in the world.
Three so-called “power” keys above
the keyboard allow instant (well, almost) connection to the Internet, to
email (both assuming an external modem is connected) and also to go into
standby mode, as mentioned above.
Each of these keys is programmable
to do other tasks if you wish.
In use
The VAIO PCG-FX770K is not the
best performing machine in the range
from a graphics and video handling
point of view. It is obviously not intended to be – there are significantly
more expensive VAIO models which
are aimed squarely at that market.
So we didn’t get the opportunity to
run the VAIO through all the modes we
would have liked. Instead, we used it
in the mode intended – as a business
computer with advanced video/audio
capabilities.
We’ve already criticised the audio
level; no doubt, though, the vast majority of users would link this to an
A/V projector so would not find that a
problem. And as far as video goes, we’ve
already commented on the beautifully
clear, crisp screen. We ran the “Fantastia 2000” DVD as a test and the machine
acquitted itself very well indeed – no
dropouts, no freezes, no problems.
The Sony is capable of playing DVDs
from any region – up to a point. The
DVD Region Setting Utility will allow
you to change the region a few times –
they don’t actually say how many – but
once this limit is reached the machine
is locked – permanently – on this
region. Bad luck if you want to watch
a Region 1 DVD and that’s your last
www.siliconchip.com.au
change – you’ll never be able to watch
a region 4 (ie, Australian) DVD again.
What’s the betting there will be a
“crack” on the Internet soon for this
little feature?
We also loaded and ran a few applications which this type of machine
would lend itself to. One program
which very quickly sorts out the men
from the boys, as far as operation
goes, is Photoshop. While the screen
re-writes weren’t as quick as we were
used to with a comparable speed
desktop computer, they were adequate
– and the quality was excellent. In fact,
I did some high-level photo manipulation using the VAIO then transferred
the file to my desktop computer to
compare results: there was nothing to
pick between them. Colour accuracy
was superb.
As you might expect with 128MB
of memory and a 20GB hard disk,
there was precious little difference in
“ordinary” applications such as Word
or Pagemaker. But with the big advantage of go-anywhere performance, the
VAIO has a definite edge.
The “manual”
A somewhat abridged operating
www.siliconchip.com.au
manual is supplied – basically, it’s just
a getting started and trouble-shooting
guide. The “real” manual is pre-loaded
onto the computer’s hard disk. It’s a
trend being followed by more and more
manufacturers these days (printed manuals are expensive) but, speaking purely
from a personal perspective, they are
less satisfying than a “real” manual.
It’s more of this push to make
everything resemble web pages. Sure,
you can almost instantly log on to the
manual and look up what you want
in the index. But I’d much rather have
something I can read over and over in
my hot little hand (OK, so I’m a slow
learner). And the quality and quantity
of the information leaves a little to
be desired, too: for example, on the
underside of the machine are at least
three expansion sockets. Try as I might,
I couldn’t find any reference to them
or what they were for.
Perhaps Sony intends them for factory options only. Well, they should
say so – or at least explain what they
are for.
And another: there’s a section on
connecting to a LAN via the Ethernet
connector. I’ve reproduced the page
to show the wealth (!) of information
given. It’s typical – I would have expected much more.
The verdict?
At an rrp of $3799, the Sony VAIO
PCG-FX770K does represent very good
value for money, even with the limitations we’ve described. With 850MHz
processor, 128MB of member and
20GB of hard disk drive to play with
it’s going to handle most of the work
you can throw at it and you won’t tire
viewing that beautiful big LCD screen.
The software supplied will more than
get you started in audio and video.
If you want more features, you’re going to have to spend more: the just-released FX-880K, for example, has a PIII
850MHz processor, a 15-inch TFT LCD
screen, an inbuilt modem and all the
bells and whistles of the FX770K – and
costs $4699. Even more upmarket is
the PCGR505 with a $5899 tag – but
that includes a docking station.
Anyway, that’s the Sony VAIO
FX770K – in many ways exciting, in
some ways disappointing. But overall
the pluses far outweigh the minuses.
The biggest minus of all: Sony have
just called, asking for it back . . .
SC
spoilsports!
September 2001 19
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.dse.com.au
MP3
Jukebox
Build your own
Want to impress your
friends? Build this neat
little project to control
your PC’s MP3 player
remotely! Alternatively, if
you’re interested in
adding remote control
and/or LCD readout to an
existing project, read on!
Part 1:
By PETER SMITH
24 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
O
VER THE COMING months,
we will describe how you can
transform your PC into a veritable jukebox, able to play any of your
favourite MP3s at the press of a button.
And if you’re really serious about
your MP3 music, you can even build
a standalone PC-based player without
a monitor or keyboard.
We’ve received so many requests
for MP3 projects that we just couldn’t
ignore them. This project includes
the most-requested features but omits
some of the more radical – such as a
Pentium III PC strapped in the car boot
with a custom power supply, up-front
console and remote control!
What will the finished project do,
exactly?
Essentially, we’ve taken one of the
most popular freeware music players
on the Internet, Winamp, and added
some software to allow it to be controlled remotely.
IR Remote Receiver
& Display Features
• Works with most off-the-shelf
•
•
•
•
•
universal remote controls
16 character, 2-line LCD with
backlighting
Simple serial interface
In-built mini-terminal makes
programming easy
Microcontroller (IC1) can be
programmed in-circuit
No messy wiring
Next, we designed a small board to
do the remote bit. It receives codes
from any universal remote control
and also provides an LCD readout big
enough for MP3 track data. Plug it into
a free serial port on your PC (or even
build it right into your PC) and you’ve
got a mean MP3 machine!
This month, we describe the hardware part of the project. Next month,
we’ll look at the Windows-based
software, including Winamp and the
control software that makes it all work
as an MP3 player.
The hardware – it ain’t hard!
The brains of our little project is an
AT90S2313 microcontroller chip from
Atmel. We’ve chosen this particular
microcontroller because it has plenty
Fig.1: an Atmel AT90S2313-4P microcontroller (IC1) does most of the work in the circuit. It outputs control signals to a
MAX232 RS232 receiver/driver IC (IC4), which in turn driver the serial port of your PC. IC3 is the IR receiver chip.
www.siliconchip.com.au
September 2001 25
Table.1: all the characters that can be displayed by the LCD module, along with
their respective ASCII codes.
characters received from the serial
input are displayed on the LCD.
In addition to displaying the usual
ASCII characters (listed in Table 1),
the program (or firmware) in the microcontroller allows our little board
to recognise a number of “control”
codes.
If you’ve worked with ASCII before,
you’ll know that the first 32 bytes of
the character set are used as “control”
codes – they’re not displayable and are
intended solely for, strangely enough,
control purposes.
Using control codes, the programmer can change the cursor type, position the cursor, clear the display, and
so forth. Table 2 lists all the control
codes our project supports.
Two codes in the table require further explanation. The first is the cursor
positioning code, Ctrl-P. Unlike other
control codes that are just one byte in
length, to set the cursor position you
need to send two bytes – Ctrl-P (16)
followed by the required position (0
= first position of first line, 31 = last
position of second line) plus an offset
of 64. For example, to position the
cursor at the beginning of the second
line, you would send 16 and then 80
(16 + 64).
The second code of interest is Ctrl-[,
also known as “escape”. This code
is used as the prefix for functions
that require more than a single byte.
Typically, a character identifying the
function, then one or more characters
containing the relevant parameters
follows the escape code. This is known
as an escape sequence.
Our project defines just one escape sequence, which we’ve used to
program the custom LCD characters
– we’ll look at how these work a little
later.
The IR receiver
of memory and runs fast enough to be
able to handle all the tasks that we’ve
thrown at it.
What’s a microcontroller? Put simply, it’s a microcomputer integrated
with a bunch of useful devices that
makes interfacing to things like our
LCD and infrared receiver really easy.
In short, the microcontroller connects the LCD and infrared receiver to
the outside world via a simple 4-wire
serial interface. For our MP3 Jukebox
project, the outside world is the serial
port on a PC but it could just as easily
be any microcontroller or computer
26 Silicon Chip
project (see our Basic Stamp example
later).
The whole lot fits on a PC board not
much bigger than the LCD module
itself and is easily mounted behind
any flat panel. As you can see from our
photos, we’ve mounted ours behind a
drive-bay blanking plate on a standard
ATX PC computer case.
So what can it do? Well, let’s look
at the display part first.
The liquid crystal display
The display part functions as a
simple serial terminal, meaning that
This project differs from past infrared remote control projects described
in Silicon Chip in that it doesn’t
require a purpose-built transmitter.
It works with most off-the-shelf universal transmitters, like the one you’re
probably already using with your TV
and VCR!
Why do we need a different remote control for every new piece of
equipment we buy anyway? Simply
because there is no single remote
control standard in use for consumer
equipment. Many households have
at least two (usually more) remote
www.siliconchip.com.au
The completed IR
receiver & LCD
module is attached to
a modified drive-bay
blanking plate and
simply clips into the
front of the PC. The
cable from the PC
board is then plugged
into a serial port on
the PC’s motherboard.
controls, while some have opted for a
“universal” unit that can be set up to
work with equipment from different
manufacturers.
Naturally, we chose a “standard”
that is probably supported by all universal remotes. This is the RC5 system,
developed by Philips and in wide
use throughout Europe. If you want
to know a little about the workings of
the RC5 system, then refer to the accompanying panel: “The RC5 Remote
Control Specification”.
To prove our system, we obtained
two completely different universal
remotes; one from Jaycar Electronics
(model BC-3000, Cat AR-1710) and
one from Coles Supermarket (Remote
Master brand). When selecting a remote, you need to make sure that it
has all the keys you would typically
use to control a VCR or CD player
(play, fast-forward, rewind, etc), as
these aren’t included on the simpler
TV-only models.
Another important consideration is
the number and type of devices it can
control. If you only intend to use the
remote for this project, then all you
need is support for “VCR” or “CD”
control.
If, however, you want to use the
same remote for other equipment,
then you need to make sure that it will
accommodate all intended devices.
Our MP3 player can masquerade as
a VCR or CD player, so in most cases
you will be able to work it in with
www.siliconchip.com.au
what you already have. An exception
to this would be if you already have a
Philips brand VCR and a Philips brand
CD player – a fairly unlikely (and in
our case, unlucky) situation.
To reliably receive data from one of
these infrared transmitters, we need
quite a bit of electronics, specifically
an IR diode, amplifier, limiter, band
pass filter and demodulator. Thankfully, all of these circuits are available in
a single IC package. Jaycar Electronics
has just what we are looking for in
their ZD-1952 IR receiver IC, while
Dick Smith Electronics has the Z1955.
The output from this IC is the recovered digital signal, which we pipe
directly into the microcontroller chip
for decoding.
After successfully decoding, the
microcontroller flashes the “received”
LED and sends the codes out the serial
transmit line. To maintain data integrity, the codes are packaged with a
couple of extra bytes, as follows:
Byte 1 – Start byte (254)
Byte 2 – Control bit (bit 7) + System
address (bits 4-0)
Byte 3 – Command (bits 5-0)
Byte 4 – Checksum of bytes 2 & 3
The start byte serves as a simple
synchroniser, indicating the start of
incoming data. The second and third
bytes are the expected address and
Table 2: Display Control Codes
Code
Ctrl-<at>
Ctrl-A
Ctrl-D
Ctrl-E
Ctrl-F
Ctrl-H
Ctrl-I
Ctrl-J
Ctrl-K
Ctrl-L
Ctrl-M
Ctrl-P
Ctrl-S
Ctrl-T
Ctrl-[
ASCII
00
01
04
05
06
08
09
10
11
12
13
16
19
20
27
HEX
00
01
04
05
06
08
09
0A
0B
0C
0D
10
13
14
1E
Function
Null (ignored)
Home cursor
Hide cursor
Underline cursor
Blinking block cursor
Backspace
Horizontal tab
Linefeed (cursor down one line)
Vertical tab (cursor up one line)
Formfeed (clear screen)
Carriage return (cursor to start of line)
Set cursor position
Auto-scroll on
Auto-scroll off
Escape (start of multi-byte instruction)
September 2001 27
command codes. The fourth byte
allows simple verification of the previous two bytes. If bytes 2, 3 and 4 are
added together (modulus 256), then
the result should always be zero.
Construction
A number of components in this
project are static sensitive and should
be treated accordingly. This applies
particularly to the LCD module and
IC1, the microcontroller. Wear a properly earthed anti-static wrist strap and
use a soldering iron with an earthed
tip during the following steps.
All parts, including the LCD module, are mounted on a single PC board
measuring 115 x 36mm. Referring to
the overlay diagram (Fig.2), begin by
installing the 9 tinned copper wire
links, taking care to keep the links as
straight as possible, as many of them
will pass quite close to component
leads. Next, install all the resistors,
diode D1, and then the socket for IC1.
The crystal (X1) can be installed
next. Its leads should be bent at 90°
about 2mm from the body so that they
slip easily into their holes with the
package lying flat against the PC board.
Before soldering, make sure that you
can just see the hole in the PC board
at the top edge of the crystal. You need
to use a short length of tinned copper
wire to solder the body of the crystal
to the pad underneath at this point.
Next, install IC2, S1, VR1, CON1 &
CON3. Note: CON1 is optional; it isn’t
needed if you have a pre-programmed
microcontroller (IC1).
Fig.2: the assembly details for the PC board. The body of the crystal (X1) is
anchored to an earth track on the board using tinned copper wire.
Fig.3: install the 5V regulator on the copper side of the board, as shown here
(see also Fig.5).
Fig.4: this is the full-size etching pattern for the PC board.
This view shows the fully assembled PC board, prior
to mounting the LCD module. The LCD module plugs
into a 16-way header socket and is secured using
12mm spacers and machine screws.
This photo shows how
the 5V regulator is
installed on the back
of the board.
28 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
Now flip the board over and install
REG1 on the copper side, following
the mounting details shown in Fig.5.
The insulator is necessary to prevent
the tab of the regulator shorting out
the tracks that pass underneath. Solder the regulator’s leads and flip the
board over again. You will note that
the regulator’s leads protrude through
the top (component) side – cut these
off flush with the surface of the board.
Now we can install all the capacitors. Take special care with the five
10µF electrolytic capacitors. As you
can see from the photos, they need
to have their leads bent at 90° (about
2mm from the body) so that they lie
flat against the PC board. These are
polarised components – it is important
which “way around” they’re installed,
and getting it wrong on this board is
dead easy!
CON2 and the sockets for LED1
and IC3 can be installed next. We’ve
socketed both LED1 and IC3 using
part of the 40-pin single row header
socket, so begin by cutting down the
header socket into one 16-pin length,
one 3-pin length and one 2-pin length.
Use a sharp utility knife, and watch
the pinkies!
Install your newly-fashioned sockets into their respective positions,
making sure that they are seated
squarely against the PC board before
soldering. We won’t plug in LED1 or
IC3 just yet, because we need to fit
the LCD module first to get height
measurements.
Note that we haven’t installed IC1 or
IC4 yet either (tempting, isn’t it?). We
need to apply power first and check
that the +5V rail is OK. To do this,
you’ll need to make up the power/data
cable, using Fig.6 as a guide.
Hook up the cable and apply power.
If you don’t want to power the unit
from your PC just yet, then any DC
power source capable of supplying between about 8-12V DC at 100mA will
do the job. Using a digital multimeter,
measure between pins 10 and 20 of the
IC1 socket. You meter should read 5V
±0.25V. If all is OK, remove power and
install IC1 and IC4.
Mounting the LCD module.
Now we’re making progress! First,
we need to install the header pins
along the top edge of the LCD module.
It’s important that the pins are inserted
on the correct side of the board (see
photos) – once they’re soldered in,
www.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.5: the mounting details for the
7805 regulator. It must be isolated
from the copper on the PC board
using an insulating pad.
they’re very difficult to remove!
Using side-cutters or a sharp knife,
separate a 16-pin section (for modules
with backlighting) or 14-pin section
(for modules without backlighting)
from the 40-pin single row header.
Insert it on the bottom side of the LCD
module and solder on the top (display)
side. Ensure that the entire row of pins
is seated squarely (sitting at 90° to the
PC board) before soldering.
Now plug the module into CON2
and secure to the main PC board with
the four 12mm untapped spacers and
M2.5 screws and nuts. You will note
that the header doesn’t quite go all the
way home – it sits about 1mm proud
of the socket edge. This is perfectly
acceptable, as the socket contacts
have already done their job. Don’t fit
washers under the nuts or screw heads,
as they may short out nearby tracks.
By the way, we’ve specified a particular LCD module from Dick Smith
Electronics as not all modules have
identical mounting hole or connector
positions. In other words, you may
have difficulties if you try to fit a module from a different source.
The final step is installing LED1
and IC3, the IR receiver chip. As you
can see from the photos, we have not
plugged these components directly
into their sockets. Rather, to ensure
reliable mating to the socket contacts,
we’ve soldered them to header pins
first.
Separate one 2-pin length and one
3-pin length from the remaining portion of the single row header for the
LED and IR receiver. Before soldering
them to the header pins, you might
find it easier to prepare the front
panel first so that you can accurately
determine how much lead length will
be required.
Bolting it up
An easy way to get everything to
fit nicely up front is to photocopy the
template in Fig.7, cut it out and tape
it on to the panel. Use a sharp knife
to mark the display cutout outline,
and a centre punch to mark the hole
positions for drilling.
Four long spacers are used to mount
the assembly behind the panel, so lets
fit these next. Slip an M3 x 10mm
screw into one of the corner holes on
the PC board from the copper side. If
your LCD module has backlighting,
it is 4.5mm “thicker” than ones that
don’t, so install two M3 washers and
an M3 nut to provide extra mounting
depth. Finish with a 20mm tapped
spacer and then repeat the above for
Fig.6: how to wire
up your cable. If
you’re installing
it in your PC, then
allow about 200mm
for the power cable
and about 700mm
for the data cable,
depending on the
size of your case.
September 2001 29
Fig.7: the is the drilling and cutting template for the drive-bay blanking plate. Note that the two IR sensors
specified in the parts list require different hole sizes.
Fig.8: this drawing shows how the
LCD module is mounted. Note how
the leads of the IR receiver (IC3) are
bent, so that it fits neatly against the
front panel. Make sure that the LED
leads cannot come into contact with
the IR receiver leads.
the other three corners.
Invert the works on a flat surface
(LCD module and spacers facing
down) and check that no light is visible
between the end of the spacers and the
flat surface. In other words, the spacers
should be equal to or slightly higher
than the surface of the LCD module.
If not, then add washers as necessary.
This is important because no pressure
Fig.9: the LCD module has eight
user-definable characters. Each
pixel row translates to one
byte, with a total of eight bytes
required to define one character.
Here we show how a “left arrow”
character might be defined.
should be applied to the front of the
LCD module when the assembly is
bolted home.
With the assembly complete, you
can trial-fit it to the front panel in
order to gauge the length of the LED
and IR receiver leads. The LED leads
need to be long enough so that it
protrudes through the panel, but not
so long that its shoulder contacts the
inside of the panel surface when installed.
The IR receiver needs to be bent over
at 90°, with its main body mass flush
with the inside panel surface. Fig.8
shows how this is done. Take your time
with this step, as it’s easy to overstress
the leads. The IR lens (the “bump”)
should actually slip inside the hole
that you’ve drilled in the panel, with
plenty of clearance all round. Once
you’re satisfied, trim to size and solder
to the header pins.
Testing the LCD display
Hook up the cable to a free serial
port on your PC and connect a suitable
power source. If you’ve made the cable
as per our diagram, then obviously
you’ll need access to an unused disk
drive power connector from inside
the PC case.
If all your PC’s power connectors
are already in use, you can purchase
a “splitter” cable to fix the problem.
These are available from DSE (cat
X-2604), Jaycar (cat PL-0750) and most
other computer suppliers.
I’m assuming you’re running Windows 95, 98, ME, NT or 2000, and that
The pin header is soldered to the LCD module as shown in the
above photograph. The photo at left shows how the LED and
IR receiver are mounted on header pins on the main board and
plugged into matching header sockets.
30 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
The completed module is attached to the drive-bay blank using 20mm tapped
spacers plus extra M3 nuts and washers as necessary to ensure that the LCD sits
flush with the front panel cutout. The drive-bay blanks were resprayed black
and the computer case charcoal grey with yellow highlights, to improve the
appearance.
you have HyperTerminal installed.
If you don’t have HyperTerminal
installed, then you can install it from
the original Windows CD via Control
Panel -> Add/Remove Programs ->
Windows Setup. You’ll find it in the
“Communications” group.
When you start HyperTerminal,
you’ll be prompted for a name for
the new connection. Enter whatever
you like and click OK. The Connect
to dialog box now appears. Click the
down-arrow next to the Connect using
box and select the appropriate COM
port, then click OK. The COM port settings dialog appears next. The settings
you require are as follows:
Bits per second: 9600
Data bits: 8
Parity: None
Stop bits: 1
Flow control: Hardware
Now click on the OK button and
you’re ready to go.
As soon as power is applied, the
start-up message “S ILICON C HIP ”
should be displayed and you will be
www.siliconchip.com.au
able to see the glow of the LED back
lighting. Characters that you type on
the keyboard should appear verbatim
on the display. You can also experiment with the various control codes.
For example, to clear the display, hold
down ‘Ctrl’ and press ‘L’.
Testing the IR receiver
Before you can test the IR receiver,
you need to set up your remote control
to suit. Universal remote controls are
supplied with a long list of all the
brands and types of equipment they
support. For our application, you
should select only “Philips” as the
brand and either “VCR” or “CD” for
the equipment type. You’ll probably
find that more than one code is listed
against each choice, with no further
explanation. All you can do is try
each code in the list until you find
one that works.
Following the supplied instructions, lock in the chosen code and
then press the appropriate equipment
button. For example, if you chose
“VCR”, don’t forget to press the VCR
button before proceeding!
We found that VCR code 278 works
well with the Jaycar BC-3000, while for
the Remote Master we chose CD code
1065 (use device mode AUX).
You’ll know you’ve found a code
that works when you point the remote
at the IR receiver, press a button (try
a digit first) and the LED flashes in
response. If you still have the serial
connection active, you’ll note that
“garbage” characters appear in the
HyperTerminal window whenever
you press a key on the remote. This
is a great sign – it means that all is
working to plan!
What if it doesn’t work?
In all cases, recheck the +5V supply
rail. Next, check that the microcontroller’s reset signal on pin 1 is at a logic
high (close to 5V) and if you have an
oscilloscope, check that the crystal
oscillator is oscillating.
Does the LCD display a message
at power on? If not, check for shorts
between pins at CON2 and using the
circuit and overlay diagrams as a reference, do a continuity test between
the pins on the LCD and the associated
pins on the microcontroller.
September 2001 31
Listing 1
'{$STAMP BS1}
symbol S_IN = 6
'serial data input pin
symbol S_OUT = 7
'serial data output pin
symbol SYS_CODE = B0
'save system code here
symbol CMD_CODE = B1
'save command code here
pause 500
'wait for display to initialise
' Clear LCD screen and display message
serout S_OUT,N2400,(12,“IR Receive Test”)
loop:
' Wait until start of record received ($FE), then save next 2 bytes
serin S_IN,N2400,($FE),SYS_CODE,CMD_CODE
' Display the received IR codes on the LCD
serout S_OUT,N2400,(12,“Sys Code = ”,#SYS_CODE)
serout S_OUT,N2400,(10,13,“Cmd Code = ”,#CMD_CODE)
goto loop
Listing 2
DEFINT A-Z
CLS : PRINT
PRINT “Custom character demo for Silicon Chip LCD Display”
' Set up COM port (change COMx number to suit your system).
OPEN “COM2:9600,N,8,1,CD0,CS0,DS0,OP0” FOR OUTPUT AS #1
' Write the bit patterns (from the DATA statements below)
' into the LCD’s CG RAM.
FOR Char = 0 TO 2
'define custom chars 0, 1 & 2
CharNum$ = LTRIM$(RTRIM$(STR$(Char))) 'trim off Qbasic’s spaces
PRINT #1, CHR$(27); “D”; CharNum$; 'send ESC D and character number
FOR Row = 1 TO 8
'each char. consists of 8 rows
READ CharBits
'get next bit pattern from data
PRINT #1, CHR$(CharBits);
'write to LCD
NEXT Row
'do all 8 rows for this character
NEXT Char
'do next character
PRINT #1, CHR$(12); “NEW CHARACTERS:”
PRINT #1, CHR$(16); CHR$(16 + 64); 'cursor to start of second line
PRINT #1, CHR$(0 + 128); CHR$(1 + 128); CHR$(2 + 128) 'show custom
' Custom character bit patterns follow.
' OK symbol
DATA 8,20,20,8,5,6,5,5
' locked symbol
DATA 14,17,17,31,27,27,31,0
' unlocked symbol
DATA 14,16,16,31,27,27,31,0
If the LCD appears to be working
but characters are not displayed when
you type in HyperTerminal, then you
can do a complete line loopback that
will verify your cable as well as the
RS232 receiver/transmitter chip (IC4).
To do this, remove the LCD, unplug
the microcontroller (IC1) and insert a
fine wire link between pins 2 & 3 of
the microcontroller socket and another
link between pins 7 & 10. Leave out
the LCD module (and IC1, of course!)
and apply power.
Now any keys you type should be
looped right back and displayed in the
HyperTerminal window.
So the display and serial input
works but the IR receiver doesn’t?
First, check that the LED lights when
you press the switch (S1). Next, check
that you have installed the receiver
chip (IC3) correctly, with pin 1 aligned
as shown on the circuit and overlay
diagrams (and photos). The output
from this chip is idle high, going low
when infrared light modulated around
the 38kHz mark is received. If possible,
try a different remote control, set up
as detailed above.
Got other uses in mind?
Although this project is intended for
our MP3 Jukebox, it would be equally
at home as an extension to just about
any computer or microcontroller
project that requires an intelligent
serial LCD readout and/or an IR
receiver.
Perhaps an example is in order.
Fig.10 shows how to connect up to a
Basic Stamp 1. Listing 1 shows just
how easy it is to drive, even with the
Basic Stamp’s limited resources. This
short program waits for a key press
on the remote and then writes the
received system and command bytes
back to the LCD – an easy way to check
Fig.10: this project is eminently suitable as an add-on to
a variety of other micro projects. Here’s how to wire it up
to the Basic Stamp-1C. This model Stamp doesn’t have a
true RS232 serial interface, so the resistors are included
to provide protection for the I/O port pins. (The Basic
Stamp-1C is available from Dick Smith Electronics).
32 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
The RC5 Remote Control Specification
H
AVE YOU EVER wondered
how it is possible to control
multiple pieces of equipment in
the same room with just one remote?
Well, all remote control systems that
we know of use a method of addressing that separates equipment into
generic groups. TVs, VCRs and CD
players, for example, represent three
such groups.
In the RC5 specification, there are
a total of 32 addressable groups,
each with 64 possible commands.
If you do the sums, this means that
2048 unique commands (or “messages”) are supported.
Each message in the RC5 coding
method is composed of a 14-bit
serial stream. A message consists
of four parts:
• Start part – 1.5 bits (2 x logic “1”)
• Control part – 1 bit
• System part – 5 bits
• Command part – 6 bits
The start bits give the receiver
AGC time to “lock on” to the incoming
data. The control bit, also called the
toggle bit, is simply a flag to indicate
whether the following code is new or
repeated. If a new key is pressed, the
control bit toggles (changes state)
from it’s previous value, otherwise it
remains the same. The system bits
are the equipment address, as described above. Finally, the command
bits are the code for the actual key
pressed.
Table 3 lists all of the equipment
addresses. Table 4 lists just a few
of the possible 64 commands and
the key functions that they relate to.
Determining the code transmitted for
any key on your remote is very easy,
the codes assigned to each key on the
remote.
Advanced features
The default baud rate is 9600 bits/
sec, but can be changed to either 4800
or 2400 by entering setup mode. To enter setup mode, press and hold down
switch S1, then apply power, releasing
the switch when the start-up message
appears. Immediately the switch is
released, a message appears displaying
the firmware revision, followed by the
www.siliconchip.com.au
Table 3: RC5 Equipment
Addresses
Address
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27-31
Equipment
TV1
TV2
Videotext
TV1 & TV2 expansion
Laser video player
VCR1
VCR2
Reserved
SAT1
VCR1 & VCR2 expansion
SAT2
Reserved
CD video
Reserved
CD photo
Reserved
Audio preamp 1
Tuner
Cassette recorder
Audio preamp 2
CD
Audio rack
Audio satellite receiver
DCC recorder
Reserved
Reserved
Writable CD
Reserved
as we will see in our software examples.
On the physical level, data is transmitted using bi-phase (also known
as Manchester) encoding. A logic
one is represented by a zero-to-one
transition at 1/2-bit time, whereas a
logic zero is represented by a one-tozero transition. One-bit time is approx.
prompt “Set baud rate?”. If you press
the switch again within four seconds,
the current baud rate is displayed.
You can then cycle through all three
possible baud rate values in turn, until you find the one that you require.
If you don’t press the switch within
four seconds, then the display clears
and the last value displayed becomes
the new baud rate. Don’t worry if you
weren’t quick enough the first time;
just repeat the procedure!
If you don’t press the switch at the
Table 4: RC5 Keycodes
& Functions
Code
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
12
13
16
17
32
33
35
39
48
50
52
53
54
55
Function
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10+
Standby
Mute
Volume Volume +
Ch/prog +
Ch/prog 20+
Tint/hue +
Pause
Rewind
Fast-forward
Play
Stop
Record
1.778ms, so a complete message
is 24.889ms long, with messages
repeated at a minimum of 114ms
intervals.
To reduce interference from other
light sources, data is transmitted on
a 36kHz carrier. We found that the
Jaycar ZD-1952 infrared receiver
IC worked well with a number of different remote controls that we tried,
even though its centre frequency is
specified as 37.9kHz.
“Set baud rate?” prompt, then “Down
load EEPROM?” appears after a few
seconds. If you press the switch at this
point, the message changes to “Waiting
for data”. As you might have deduced
from the message, this feature allows
you to update the contents of the microcontroller's EEPROM. In order to
make use of this feature, you need at
least a little knowledge of microcontroller programming.
The AT90S2323 has 128 bytes of
EEPROM and our firmware makes use
September 2001 33
Parts List For IR Remote Receiver + LCD Display
1 PC board, code 07109011,
115 x 36mm
1 LCD module, 16 character x 2
line with LED backlight*
(DSE Cat Z-4172) -OR1 LCD module, 16 character x 2
line (DSE Cat Z-4170). *
Note: LCD module with backlighting recommended
1 10-pin dual row header (CON 1)
(optional, see text)
1 40-pin single row header socket
(CON 2) (Altronics Cat P-5390)
1 40-pin single row header (for LCD
module) (Altronics Cat P-5430)
1 90° PC-mount 6-pin header
(CON3) (Altronics Cat P-5516)
1 6-pin header socket to suit above
(Altronics cat P-5476)
1 SPST tactile membrane switch
(S1) (Altronics Cat S-1120)
1 20-pin IC socket (machined pin
type)
1 4MHz crystal (HC49 package,
parallel resonant) (X1)
1 4-pin disk drive power connector
(socket, with male pins)
(DSE Cat. P-5120)
1 9-pin female ‘D’ connector with
backshell
1 Universal IR Remote Control
(eg, Jaycar Cat. AR-1710)
Semiconductors
1 AT90S2313-4P microcontroller
(IC1), programmed with
IRRLCD.HEX & IRRLCD.EEP
1 MC34064P-5 under-voltage
sensor (IC2) (Altronics Cat.
Z-7252)
of a fair slice of this to store parameters such as the baud rate, power-on
message and custom LCD characters.
If you’re not daunted by the innards
of an assembler file, then have a look
at the IRREE.ASM file included in the
software download – you can open it
with any text editor. This file defines
the layout of the data stored in the
microcontroller's EEPROM.
You can make changes to this file,
reassemble it (using any Atmel AVR
assembler) and download the resultant
IRREE.EEP hex file using the above
setup mode feature.
To do this, enter setup mode, and get
the “Waiting for data” message on the
34 Silicon Chip
1 IR receiver (IC3) (Jaycar Cat.
ZD-1952; DSE Cat. Z-1955)
1 MAX232 RS232 receiver/driver
(IC4)
1 LM7805 5V regulator (REG1)
1 3mm high efficiency red LED
(LED1)
1 1N4001 1A diode (D1)
Capacitors
1 100µF 25V PC electrolytic
5 10µF 16V PC electrolytic
3 0.1µF 50V monolithic ceramic
2 27pF 50V ceramic disc
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 10kΩ
1 4.7kΩ
1 180Ω
1 22Ω
1 10kΩ miniature horizontal
trimpot (VR1)
Miscellaneous
4 12mm untapped spacers (5mm
max. O.D.)
4 M3 x 20mm tapped spacers
4 M2.5 x 20mm screws
4 M2.5 nuts
5 M3 x 6mm c/sunk head screws
4 M3 x 10mm cheese head screws
4 M3 nuts
13 M3 washers
1 TO-220 silicone or mica
insulating washer
180mm (approx.) tinned copper
wire for links
4-core data cable for serial port
connection
Light-duty hookup wire
display as described above. With the
board connected to your PC, open HyperTerminal (configured as described
earlier) and send the new IRREE.EEP
file out the designated serial port using
text only file transfer. If the transfer
is successful, then the LCD should
display “Download OK!”, otherwise
an error message will appear.
If nothing happens, then the data
was either not received or was garbled.
Defining custom characters
In addition to the standard character
set (see Table 1), the LCD module has
eight custom-character slots. These
can be really handy, as we found
when we needed the classic “play”,
“stop” and “pause” symbols for our
MP3 Jukebox.
LCD characters are composed on a 5
x 8 pixel bitmap. Each character row
is defined in one byte, with the upper,
unused bits set to zero. Fig.9 gives an
example of the values needed to define
a single character.
Once you know the bit patterns
for your new character, send them to
the LCD with the following escape
sequence:
ESC D n B0 B1 B2 B3 B4 B5 B6 B7
where ‘ESC’ identifies the start of a
multi-byte instruction, ‘D’ indicates
that this is a custom character definition, ‘n’ is the character number (from
0-7), and B0-B7 are the byte patterns
that define the custom character.
Using the values from our example,
the actual string to transmit (in decimal notation) would be:
27 68 00 00 04 08 31 08 04 00 00
The microcontroller maps custom
characters to ASCII 128-136, so to
display a custom character, use its
number (0-7) plus an offset of 128.
Listing.2 shows how it all works in a
real program. This example, written in
QBasic, defines the first three custom
character slots and then displays the
results.
Programming the micro
If you purchased this project as a
kit, then the microcontroller (IC1) will
have been pre-programmed and you
can ignore the following information.
If not, then we have made provisions
for programming the chip in-circuit.
In common with many recent microcontrollers, the AT90S2313’s flash
program memory and EEPROM data
memory can be electrically erased and
programmed while in-circuit. Atmel
has assigned alternate functions to
three port pins for the task, which
we’ve routed to CON1, the in-circuit
serial programming (ISP) header.
To use this feature, you need a free
software package from Atmel called
AVR ISP. You also need a simple
adapter board that connects between
your PC’s parallel port and CON1 on
our board. We hope to describe this
board next month.
Finally, the microcontroller program files (including all the source
code) are available for free download
from the Silicon Chip website at
SC
www.siliconchip.com.au
www.siliconchip.com.au
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EPTEMBER2001 35
2001 35
SSeptember
PC CONTROLLED
Everyone, it seems, has an old computer, unused and unloved, gathering dust somewhere. Wouldn’t you like to do
something useful with it, like controlling external devices?
This project has both the hardware and software to do
exactly that – and it will work on anything from a 386 up!
Concept, hardware and software design by Trent Jackson
Words by Ross Tester
I
goes. Just remember, though, that this
nitially, this project was designed
is a mains-powered and mains-conto turn a swimming pool filter
trolling device and the circuit “floats”
pump on and off at appropriate
at full mains potential at all times.
times. Sure, you can buy a pretty
cheap mechanical or electronic timer
There are certain practices and proto do that but with an old 486 lying
cedures which must be followed for
idle and the possibility – no, make
your own safety and that of anyone else
that probability – of controlling a lot
using the device (not to mention the
more than a pool pump, I thought,
longevity of your computer!). Most of
why not?
all, be extremely cautious when testing
As it turned out, the hardware to do
or servicing the circuit with the cover
the job is relatively simple and
cheap – there are only about
twenty components required
FEATURES
to give a pretty nifty circuit.
build
Low cost, easy to
The software, though, is a little
more complicated – but as I
tection
Fuse and surge pro
have already done that part for
ion
you, all you need to do is build
Full optical isolat
the control box, dust off that old
ction
System enable fun
computer, fire it up and load the
itching
software.
Efficient relay sw
It uses the parallel (printer)
Precision timing
port of just about any PC from,
r events
say, 386 vintage onwards. It op Control up to fou
erates under good, old fashioned
er settings
Save and open tim
DOS (remember that?) – in fact,
I wouldn’t recommend it being
run under Windoze.
off. To be absolutely safe, I’d suggest
The hardware
you do all your testing with a 12V
battery powering it. At SILICON CHIP
There is nothing too difficult to either
we like our readers and want to keep
comprehend or build as far as hardware
all of them alive!
We’ll show you how to hook in a 12V
supply later on.
Speaking of safety, the circuit features fuse and surge protection and
has full electrical isolation (by means
of an optocoupler) between the mains
and the connection to your computer.
Now, let’s look at the block diagram,
Fig.1, in conjunction with the circuit
diagram, Fig. 2.
The first thing you will note
is that there is no transformer.
The 240V mains is applied
via a 10A fuse (for protection
against catastrophic failure) and a 275V varistor (to
suppress any mains-borne
spikes). A capacitor across
the mains also assists in
filtering out any noise.
Next there is an AC current limiter consisting of a
pair of parallel capacitors
which together add up to
about 1µF. From first principles, we know that series
capacitors in an AC circuit
offer resistance (or more
correctly impedance) to current flow.
This is expressed by the formula
XC = 1/2π f C, where XC is in Ohms,
f is the frequency in Hz and C is the
THIS IS A MAINS-POWERED DEVICE AND THE CIRCUITRY IS LIVE (240V AC) WHILE EVER POWER IS CONNECTED,
EVEN IF THERE IS NO OUTPUT VOLTAGE. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO BUILD THIS PROJECT IF YOU ARE NOT
ENTIRELY FAMILIAR WITH MAINS WIRING PRACTICES AND CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUES.
36 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
D MAINS SWITCH
capacitance in farads. Therefore, at
50Hz, the two capacitors are going to
present an impedance of about 3.2kΩ.
From Ohm’s law (I=E/R), we can
then deduce that the current will
be limited to 240V/3200Ω or about
75mA.
The 47Ω resistor following the series
capacitors can be all but ignored for the
purpose of this equation – its job is to
limit the inrush current which would
otherwise occur at switch-on.
The four diodes (D1-D4) form a
bridge rectifier across the 240V AC
mains, resulting in a pulsating DC
voltage output of about 340V (240 x
1.414). Zener diode ZD1 is connected
as a shunt regulator across this supply,
clamping it to around 12V DC. The two
capacitors (C3 and C4) provide further
smoothing, resulting in a relatively
well-regulated 12V DC supply for the
rest of the circuit. A red LED across
the 12V supply shows that power is
applied.
So far, all we’ve looked at is the power supply – but there is not much else
to it! Turning back to the other input,
www.siliconchip.com.au
that from the computer, we see that two
pins, Data 1 and Strobe, of the parallel
port, provide the signal drive for the
switch. Under software control, when
Data 1 goes high and the Strobe goes
low, D5 and D6 are both forward biased,
lighting the LED inside the optocoupler
(the 180Ω series resistor limits current
from the parallel port to safe levels).
As you can see from this, there is
no electrical connection whatsoever
between the computer and this circuit.
The optocoupler specified, SFH601-3,
has been chosen because of its high
isolation. Lower rated optocouplers
should not be used.
When the LED in the optocoupler
lights, the transistor in the opto-coupler
Fig.1: the block diagram of the
PC-controlled mains switch
shows that there is complete
isolation between the mains and
the PC.
September 2001 37
PC CONTROLLED MAINS SWITCH
WARNING: THE MAJORITY OF THIS
CIRCUIT OPERATES AT 240VAC!
N
E
LED2
1.2k
ZD1
12V
5W
E B C
1000F
25V
BC548
0.1F
SC
2001
LED1
POWER
1.2k
½OPTO1
SFH601-3
RLY1
10
D5
1N4007
E
CONTACT WITH ANY PART OF THIS CIRCUIT
WHILE CONNECTED TO THE 240VAC MAINS
SUPPLY COULD KILL YOU!
240VAC
OUTLET
A
RLY1
250VAC
Q1
BC548
C
B
4.7k
4
5
D1 - D4
4 x 1N4007
½OPTO1
SFH601-3
1
2
PARALLEL PORT CONNECTOR
PIN NUMBERS.
*NUMBERS SHOWN INDICATE
0.1F
250VAC
CLASS 'X2'
20
12
13
11
10
PORT
TO PC
*PARALLEL
1
3
100
D7
1N914
180
E
240VAC
INPUT
N
D6
1N914
V1
V275LA20A
275VAC
A
F1
10A (MAX)
250VAC
100k
½
W
0.47F
250VAC
CLASS 'X2'
0.47F
250VAC
CLASS 'X2'
47
1W
K
A
LED
The software
Fig. 2: the complete circuit diagram of the PC-Controlled Mains Switch.
38 Silicon Chip
conducts. This transistor is connected
in “Darlington” fashion to Q1 which
is then turned on. Current flows from
Q1’s collector to emitter, through a 10Ω
resistor and then through the relay
coil, pulling it in and closing the 240V
active circuit. Therefore, whatever is
connected turns on.
At the same time, the green LED
between Q1’s emitter and ground also
turns on to give indication that 240V
power is available.
The reverse-biased diode across the
relay coil doesn’t normally conduct.
Its purpose is to protect Q1 when the
optocoupler turns off and the relay
de-energises. This can generate a quite
high voltage pulse which might destroy
Q1; when the relay de-energises the
diode becomes forward biased, safely
bleeding the pulse away.
Finally, you will note that all 4-bit
inputs to the PC parallel port are connected together and tied low, to pin 20.
This is essential for the port to operate
as we intended. Incidentally, the port
must be operated in the “ECP” mode,
which can normally be set up via the
computer’s CMOS setup. ECP, by the
way, stands for Enhanced Capabilities
Port.
If you don’t know how to do this,
refer to your computer’s manual (or
perhaps you shouldn’t be attempting
this project!).
The software, PCMS.EXE, does
the vast majority of the “work” – my
philosophy is minimum hardware
and maximum software! It is written
in Q-BASIC and a zipped version can
be downloaded from the SILICON CHIP
website.
As mentioned before, this should
be run in DOS mode. While I have
run it under Windows, it occasionally gets upset and freezes. You
shouldn’t have this problem under
DOS.
The software will run without the
controller hardware plugged in, so
you can get a feel for its operation and
features. There is a scrolling message
at the bottom of the screen which tells
you which keys to press for which
operations.
It’s also designed to be very user-friendly – once you’ve used it a
couple of times you will get the hang
of it. The heart of the program is the
timer settings box. When you first run
the program it will load up null settings
www.siliconchip.com.au
back and type over. (The backspace
key will delete characters in the files
box).
Files box
You can save current timer settings
in a file and recall it later – press the
F4 key to save your current settings
and F5 to open any presaved settings.
System box
The current time and date, read
from your PC’s real time clock, are
displayed in the top two boxes. You
cannot change these – you must go
into your PC’s time and date setting
procedure (via CMOS setup) to do
this.
The Port Address can be changed to
match the port address of your computer’s parallel port. The default is H378;
some computers have theirs at H278 but
pressing the F1 key will toggle through
the various addresses possible. If you
have a valid port address, the port data
(immediately underneath) should read
between H120 and H148.
Note that the port mode must first be
set to ECP (enhanced capabilities port)
mode via your CMOS setup.
The “Device Enable” box is not controlled by the timers; you have to set
The completed PC board with its connections to power, to the mains outlet
(GPO), the front panel LEDs and to the computer parallel port. There were some
minor differences between this photo and the final version shown below.
(0’s) for each of the four programmable
events.
are entered in the format MM-DD-YY
(eg, 19th September 2001 would be
00-19-01); times are in 24 hour format
(8.15pm would be 20:15).
To modify any setting, use the
arrow keys (keypad) to move the
flashing cursor to the unit you want
changed and enter the new setting of
the null setting. The backspace key
does not delete – move the cursor
Timer Settings box
There are two modes. MX is the normal mode and can handle both dates
and times.
DX is the alternate mode, used when
you want an event to occur on a daily
basis (so no date input is needed) Dates
GPO
(REAR VIEW)
E
A
CASE
CASE
LO
EL
/Y
EN
RE
(G
L
RA
UT
NE
)
UE
(BL
CORD
GRIP
GROMMET
www.siliconchip.com.au
180
SOLDER RESISTOR
ACROSS V1
D6
1.2k
10
4.7k
1.2k
100k
Q1
D5
F1
10A (MAX)
250VAC
1
*
*
3
OPTO1
SFH601-3
1
PIN NUMBER ON
*PC
PARALLEL PORT
CONNECTOR
0.1 F
250VAC
0.47 F
250VAC
0.47 F
250VAC
0.1 F
D3
25V
(BROWN)
1000 F
TIVE
D2
D7
1N
4148
+
ZD1
AC
47
1W
D4
Fig.3: follow this
component overlay and
wiring diagram when
building the project. Build
and test the PC board first
– but don’t put in the 5W
Zener (ZD1) until after
testing.
DATA
CABLE
ISOLATED SECTION
4 x 1N4007
D1
V1
E
TH
AR
N
1N
4148
250VAC
MAINS
CABLE
CORD
GRIP
GROMMET
)
W
A
LED1
K
A
LED2
1N4007 K
RLY1
10A / 250VAC
September 2001 39
Here’s what the software, PCMS.EXE, looks like on the screen. You can set the on and off times for up to four events as
well as change various parameters as described in the text. Download the software from www.siliconchip.com.au
this manually with the F2 key in order
to enable the hardware.
Finally, the “Device Status” box
should automatically come up with
a “connected” message if your port
is functioning correctly and the hardware is connected. If the software has
detected errors (eg, no hardware connected or a port malfunction of some
sort) it will read unknown.
The big box underneath the System box is a visual indication that
everything is working as it should:
when the timer turns the hardware
on, the box changes from red to green
and the message changes from “AC
POWER IS OFF” to, surprise surprise,
“AC POWER IS ON”.
If you don’t like the background
colour, toggle the F6 key. There are 16
different colours and styles to choose
from – there must be something there
you’ll like!
we specify nylon types – if a nut
works its way loose inside the case
and shorts out something, you or your
PC could disappear in a puff of blue
smoke.
As usual, start by visually checking
the PC board to ensure there are no
etching or drilling defects.
Then commence assembly with the
lowest profile components – resistors,
varistor and diodes (ensure the diodes
are the right way around!). At this
stage, don’t fit the Zener diode because
it will get upset with our checking
procedure later.
Next are the smaller capacitors
(watch the polarity on the electrolytics), the IC and transistor (ditto) and
the fuse clips. Some fuse clips have
little lugs on them which will stop a
fuse being inserted if they are back-tofront: check yours by inserting a fuse
before soldering.
All that’s left now are the larger
capacitors and the relay. Now we are
ready to move on to the wiring which
Construction
Before we start, another word of
warning. Please ensure that you follow the construction method to the
letter – we have gone to a great deal
of trouble to ensure that the design is
safe and construction methods echo
that safety.
For example, do not substitute
standard metal bolts and nuts where
40 Silicon Chip
The PC board is secured to the case lid with four nylon screws, as shown here.
Each screw has a nylon nut on the inside acting as a spacer before the PC board
is seated and secured with another nylon nut.
www.siliconchip.com.au
is where you have to be particularly
careful to make sure nothing is wrong.
The basic premise is that the wires
need to be only as long as necessary
to reach and not long enough to short
to something else if for some reason
they come adrift.
Before you do that, though, you
should prepare the jiffy box for the
external components and wiring.
A 6mm hole is required at each end
(for the mains cable and the computer
cable), each with a rubber grommet.
The bottom of the box is used as the
top (the lid becomes the base) and in
this you will need two 5mm holes for
the LEDs, two 3mm holes for the power
outlet mounting screws and finally a
30mm hole for the back of the power
outlet to poke through.
All labels should now be glued to
the box and left to dry. While that’s
happening, go over your PC board
assembly once more to make sure
everything’s where it should be. It
will be much more difficult to check it
later.
Prepare the red and green LEDs by
soldering a 100mm length of 4-way
rainbow cable to their respective
legs. Note which legs are the anode
and the cathode (the anode lead is
the longer) and then cut both legs
very short – say 3mm – and solder
the rainbow cable to them leaving as
much as the cable intact as you can.
Then wrap the soldered joints in insulation tape so that no exposed legs
or wire are visible. If necessary, put a
piece of tape between the legs to ensure they don’t short.
If you’ve now forgotten which leg
was which, the cathodes are the ones
adjacent to the flat on the LEDs! Write
down the colours of 4-way rainbow
cable which go to each leg, and which
colours go to which colour LED.
Fit LED mounting collars over them
and push them through the bottom
of the box. Lock them in place with
a dab of silicone sealant, super glue,
5-minute Araldite or other suitable adhesive.
Refer to the wiring diagram for the
mains wiring and follow it exactly.
Again, only make the leads as long as
you need to.
Remove the outer insulation from
the three-wire mains lead to a length
of 175mm. Cut off 100mm and put
it aside – you’ll need this as mains
hookup wire. Push the wires of the
mains lead through the appropriate
www.siliconchip.com.au
Parts List – PC Controlled Mains Switch
1 PC board, 101 x 57mm, coded 10109011
1 plastic case (Jaycar HB6013 or equivalent)
1 mini switched power outlet (GPO) (HPM 787 or equivalent)
2 cord-grip grommets to suit cables used
2 3AG fuse clips, PC mounting with protective cover
1 10A 3AG fuse
1 SPST relay, 12V coil (220Ω) with 10A 240V-rated contacts (Jaycar
SY-4050 or equivalent)
1 piece insulating material to suit – Elephantide or plastic (see text)
5 mini cable ties
6 M3 x 10mm nylon screws
10 M3 nylon nuts
6 spring washers
100mm length 4-way rainbow cable (colours unimportant)
2m length 240V 10A mains lead with moulded 3-pin-plug
2m parallel printer cable (D-25 plug) (without Centronics plug) OR
2m length 2-core shielded cable and 1 D-25 male plug
Semiconductors
1 SFH601-3 optocoupler (OPTO1) (DSE Z9023 – do not substitute)
1 BC548 NPN transistor (Q1)
1 12V 5W Zener diode (ZD1)
1 275VAC Varistor (V1)
5 1N4007 power diodes (D1-D5)
2 1N914 signal diodes (D6, D7)
1 5mm red LED (LED1)
1 5mm green LED (LED2)
Capacitors
1 1000µF 25VW PC mounting electrolytic
2 0.47µF 250V AC X2-class polyester
1 0.1µF 250V AC X2-class polyester
1 0.1µF MKT polyester
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 4.7kΩ
2 1.2kΩ
1 180Ω
hole from the outside. You’ll need to
push through much further than the
end of the insulation – at least another
50mm or so, to give you enough room
to attach the power outlet.
Take the Neutral (blue) and Earth
(green yellow) wires through the
large hole in the box to the outside.
Remove 15mm of insulation from
both. The only connection to the Earth
terminal of the power outlet (labeled
“E” or perhaps with green or green/
(Code 474 or 470n)
(Code 104 or 100n)
(Code 104 or 100n)
1 100Ω
1 10Ω
1 47Ω 1W
yellow marking) is the Earth wire.
Bend the bare wire back on itself,
push it into the terminal and tighten
the grub screw. Ensure there is no
exposed wire (especially tiny strands
of wire).
Now take that blue length of mains
wire you cut off before and strip 15mm
of insulation from it. Tightly twist this
and the blue wire coming out of the
box together and insert them into the
Neutral terminal of the power outlet
Resistor Colour Codes
No.
1
2
1
1
1
1
Value
4.7kΩ
1.2kΩ
180Ω
100Ω
47Ω
10Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
yellow purple red brown
brown red red brown
brown grey brown brown
brown black brown brown
yellow purple black brown
brown black black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
yellow purble black brown brown
brown red black brown brown
brown grey black black brown
brown black black black brown
yellow purple black gold brown
brown black black gold brown
September 2001 41
(labeled “N” or perhaps with blue or
black marking) and tighten the grub
screw. Ensure there is no exposed wire
nor strands of wire.
Now take that brown length of
mains wire you cut off before and
strip 15mm of insulation from it. Twist
the strands together, fold them back
on themselves and insert the wire
into the Active terminal of the power
outlet (labeled “A”, perhaps with red
or brown marking). Tighten the grub
screw and ensure there is no exposed
wire nor strands of wire.
Push the power outlet down onto
the box and secure it in place with
two 3mm x 10mm nylon bolts and
nuts (don’t use metal ones!) and spring
washers (which should be metal).
Tighten completely and check that
the power outlet will not move around
at all.
Fig.4: wiring
the D-25
(parallel
port) plug
which
connects
to your
computer.
We’re not going to connect the mains
wiring to the board yet – that will come
later after completion and testing. First
we will solder the LED wiring (ie, the
4-wire rainbow cable) to the board in
the positions shown.
NOTE: a 100kΩ ½W resistor should
be connected across the Varistor as
shown in Figs.2 & 3, to safely discharge the X2 capacitors when power
is switched off.
Computer cable
Now it’s time for the computer cable.
In all probability, you’ll be using a
“ratted” Centronics printer cable but if
you have to make up a new one, that’s
not too difficult using a standard D-25
male plug and backshell assembly and
some 2-core shielded cable. See Fig.4
for the plug detail.
This cable must be passed through
the box in similar manner to the mains
cable but to hold things together, a
short length of heatshrink is first heated onto it. The essential thing about
this cable is that none of the wires
is long enough to reach the power
outlet should one come adrift later.
The distance from the side wall of the
box to the closest point on the power
outlet was 50mm so we cut our cable
to 45mm.
That makes it a tight job to solder
to the PC board, but it can be done.
Testing
Front and rear close-up views of case. You will note that for safety there are no
metal screws used – the warning on the back panel means what it says! You should
not build this project if you are not experienced in mains wiring construction.
42 Silicon Chip
As we said before, for safety’s sake
you really should check the operation with a 12V battery. The easiest
way to do this is with a pair of wires
temporarily soldered to the back of
the PC board across where the Zener
would normally go – just watch the
polarity.
Apply 12V power and ensure that
the red LED lights. The green LED
should not light nor should you hear
the relay click in.
If OK, plug the D-25 connector into
your computer’s parallel port and run
the pcms.exe software (in DOS mode).
Remember to set the port to ECP mode
at boot-up.
Following the processes outlined
above, ensure that the software does
indeed control the board as intended.
You can check the relay operation with
a multimeter.
If all is OK, turn off power, disconnect from the computer and remove
www.siliconchip.com.au
Own an EFI car?
Want to get the
best from it?
Youll find all you
need to know in
this publication
www.siliconchip.com.au
September 2001 43
Same-size PC board pattern and labels for the back and front of the case. The
labels should be glued on before final assembly. On the front panel, the largest
hole is 40mm diameter, the LED holes are 5mm and the other two are 4mm.
Use a copy of the label as a template for drilling the case. The PC board
pattern and labels can be downloaded from www.siliconchip.com.au
44 Silicon Chip
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
OUTPUT
ON
POWER
APPLIED
PC CONTROLLED MAINS SWITCH
All parts of this circuit have 240VAC applied
even when the output is switched off.
Contact with this voltage could be lethal:
use extreme caution when servicing
or testing this apparatus.
WARNING
Almost ready to close – these two photos more clearly
show the wiring between the PC board and the power
outlet on the front panel, and also the wiring to the LEDs
and to the computer parallel port plug. At left is the sheet
of insulation material, a piece of elephantide or similar,
or it can be cut from a plastic sheet such as an ice-cream
container. which is inserted between the PC board
(component side) and the wiring to the power outlet. It’s
just another bit of insurance should the “impossible to
happen” happen – a wire works its way loose which could
jeopardise the inherent safety built into the switch.
www.siliconchip.com.au
Another view of the almost-completed project, this time
from above and with the insulation in place. Once again,
note the use of nylon nuts and bolts – for safety reasons.
the two wires you temporarily soldered to the back of the
board and solder in the Zener diode (the right way around).
Make sure you don’t leave any solder bridges or splashes.
Mains wiring
Follow the wiring diagram exactly. The brown wire from
the power outlet solders to the centre of the PC board, the
blue wire from the power outlet solders to the edge of the
board and the brown wire from the mains lead also solders
to the edge of the PC board. To complete, fit some form of
insulating cover over the fuse.
Final assembly
It is important to fit cable ties to hold the various
lengths of wiring together – this should ensure that
wiring cannot move around in the event of something
coming adrift. Cable ties must also be fitted to the mains
cable and the parallel cable on the inside of the grommets to prevent the cables from being either pulled
out or flexed unduly.
Now the PC board must be secured to the case “lid”
with nylon nuts and bolts. This again is not real easy given
the fact that the wiring lengths have been kept short. But
it can be done! First drill the case lid in the positions
shown and fit a nylon bolt and nut to each of the holes.
Tighten completely, then slide the PC board down onto
the nuts and fit another nut to the top side. Ensure these
are also tightened.
Before screwing this assembly into the box, cut a piece
of insulation material the size of the box with corners
trimmed for the mounting pillars. This goes between the
mains outlet and the PC board components. Elephantide has
been traditionally used for this role; a piece of thin plastic
(eg, cut from an ice-cream container) would serve as well.
Slide this insulation into the box, push the PC board and
lid assembly down on top of it and fit the four case screws.
Your PC controlled switch is now finished and should work
exactly the same way as when you tested it.
NOTE: updated software for this project is available
from: http://members.optushome.com.au/video1/macksprograms
SC
www.siliconchip.com.au
September 2001 45
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
Ethernet modules from Rabbit Semiconductor
Rabbit Semiconductor has added two new Ethernet core
modules to the popular RabbitCore product line. No bigger
than a credit card, these modules include the high-performance Rabbit microprocessor, up to one megabyte of memory (flash and SRAM), an Ethernet interface and connector.
In addition, the four serial ports, battery-backable clock,
cold boot capability, a slave mode and up to 40 I/O lines
make product design fast and economical.
The Rabbit 2000 is an 8-bit microprocessor with a
C-friendly instruction set, fast number crunching ability
and features such a four serial ports, a slave port, remote
bootstrap capability, advanced clocking options and glueless interfacing to both memory and I/O. With a clock speed
up to 30MHz, the Rabbit 2000 outperforms alternative processors, making it a substitute for 16 and 32-bit processors
at a much lower system cost.
The Rabbit 2000 features an updated Z180 style architecture to allow 1-byte operation codes for new instructions.
Existing Z180 assembly language can also be ported to the
Rabbit 2000 with minimal change.
New C-friendly instructions are included for fetching and
storing 16-bit words located at a computed memory address
or on the stack. New instructions perform fetches, stores,
calls, returns and jumps over a full megabyte of address
space. Memory access instructions can be turned into I/O
access instructions by using a prefix. As a consequence,
I/O access is faster and more flexible.
The Rabbit 2000 has a special support feature for battery-backed RAM. In typical processors, a battery switchover circuit maintains at least 2V of supply to RAM and
pulls the chip select line up to the same voltage as the
battery. This method has a propagation delay as much as
20 nanoseconds. The Rabbit’s special battery backup feature allows chip select #1 to be always forced low under
program control, thus avoiding clock slow down.
A hardware memory
write-protect feature
protects battery-backed
RAM and flash memory from
inadvertent write operations.
There are 40-plus I/O pins grouped in five 8-bit ports.
Eight external programmable I/O interface signals can
be configured as I/O chip selects, I/O write strobes, I/O
read strobes and I/O read/write strobes. Standard I/O
read and I/O write enable signals are also available. I/O
devices can be directly connected to the I/O interfaces,
and often without glue logic. Four asynchronous serial
ports are on-chip. Two of the ports also have synchronous communication capability. The asynchronous
ports operate at speeds up to 1/32 of the clock frequency,
while synchronous mode allows baud rates up to 1/8th
of the clock frequency.
For further information on the Rabbit 2000 and the
Ethernet core modules, contact the Australian distributor, Dominion Electronics or visit their website.
Contact:
Dominion Electronics
Suite 201, 82 Christie St, St Leonards NSW 2065
Phone: (02) 9906 6988
Fax (02) 9906 7145
Website: www.dominion.net.au
Jaycar opens its first Macarthur region store
Jaycar Electronics newest store in Campbelltown, NSW
will employ up to five local staff in a combination of full
time and casual positions.
Jaycar brings to Campbelltown many years of retail experience and a proven product range covering alarm systems,
test equipment, video surveillance, car audio, electrical &
electronic tools, wire, cable and accessories. Jaycar is also
known for its extensive
range of electronic hobbyist kits.
Gary Johnston, Managing Director of Jaycar
said, “We recognise
Campbelltown as a regional growth center
46 Silicon Chip
and want to be part of that growth”. “With its major administrative and educational infrastructure, Campbelltown
is a natural choice for our newest store and we are pleased
to be here and part of the ongoing development of the
Macarthur region”
Jaycar’s new store is located in Shop 2, 49 Queen St (Cnr
Langdon Ave.) in Campbelltown. Phone 4620-7155
Contact:
Jaycar Electronics
100 Silverwater Rd, Silverwater NSW 2128
Phone: (02) 9741 8567
Fax (02) 9741 8588
Website: www.jaycar.com.au
www.siliconchip.com.au
See-in-the-dark video “Snooper” from DSE
Elsewhere in this issue we feature the SOOPER SNOOPER. Well,
here’s the video equivalent – the
Apple Nightowl from Dick Smith
Electronics.
The Nightowl allows you to view
up to 100 metres in absolute darkness,
150 metres in starlight or 200 metres
in moonlight. You view the scene
through the Nightowl’s video imager,
which shows in a monotone green.
Suggested uses (apart from snooping!) include security guards, nature
lovers studying nocturnal
wildlife (they don’t say what
or how wild!) and even for
boat owners trying to pick
up that elusive mooring in
the dark.
The Nightowl has 7000x
light amplification and 3.6x image magnification. It is powered by
two AA batteries and weighs in at 585
grams. A soft carry case is included.
The Applie Nightowl is available
from all Dick Smith PowerHouse
stores in NSW and Victoria for
$598.00. It is also available via mail
orders (1300 366 644) or through
www.dse .com.au
Contact:
Dick Smith Electronics
2 Davidson St, Chullora NSW 2190
Phone: (02) 9642 9100
Fax (02) 9642 9153
Website: www.dse.com.au
Honey, I shrunk the keyboard . . .
If you’re a bit tight on space (or
don't like a big keyboard taking up
real estate!) Microgram have this nifty
little PS-2 keyboard available.
The keys and key spacing are full
size, so you won’t have any excuse for
poor typing, but everything else about
this keyboard is tiny. It measures just
295 x 145mm and is about 35mm
deep at the back. Naturally, they've
had to sacrifice the numeric keypad
(it piggy-backs on some of the alpha
keys) but all other keys are there, if a
little smaller than usual!
You can check this little number
out by calling Microgram or visiting
their website.
STEPDOWN
TRANSFORMERS
60VA to 3KVA encased toroids
Harbuch Electronics Pty Ltd
9/40 Leighton Pl. HORNSBY 2077
Ph (02) 9476-5854 Fx (02) 9476-3231
High Efficiency, Low
Noise White LED Driver
The LT1932,is a switch-mode,
fixed-frequency, constant-current boost
regulator optimized to drive white light
emitting diodes (LEDs). The fixed
operating frequency of 1.2MHz allows
the use of very low profile inductors
and small ceramic capacitors, while
minimizing emitted noise. Typical
efficiencies over 80% are obtained
compared to the 50%-70% efficiencies
of charge-pump solutions.
Contact:
Microgram Computers
Unit 1, 14 Bon Mace Close, Berkeley Vale
NSW 2261
Phone: (02) 4389 8444
Fax 1800 625 777
Website: www.mgram.com.au
Contact:
REC Electronics
Unit 1, 38 South St Rydalmere NSW 2116
Phone: (02) 9638 1888 Fax (02) 9638 1798
Website: www.rec.com.au
PARALLAX BS2-IC BASIC STAMP $112.00 INC GST
WE STOCK THE COMPLETE DEVELOPMENT SYSTEM
www.siliconchip.com.au
September 2001 47
BASIC Stamp development kit from RTN
To say that the BASIC Stamp has
enjoyed phenomenal success is akin
to saying that computers are popular!
As a means of “getting into” microcontrollers, there is probably none
better. With their easy-to-learn (and
even easier to understand) language
there are literally hundreds of thousands of people who started out with
the BASIC Stamp.
This popularity has spawned a huge
library of Stamp applications, with
dozens of websites, user groups and
newsgroups devoted to the subject. A
great place to start is the manufacturer’s website, www.parallaxinc.com.
Or try typing “Basic Stamp” into any
search engine (Google is accessible
from the SILICON CHIP website)
and you’ll see what we mean (about
290,000 references, according to
Google!)
The BASIC Stamp development kit, available from RTN
allows users to develop and
debug their own BASIC
Stamp designs. It features a
BASIC Stamp BS2p 24 module, BASIC Stamp starter kit on floppy disk,
BASIC Stamp manual (Version 2) and
a selection of interconnecting cables.
Further information on this and
other BASIC Stamp products can be
obtained from the RTN website.
Contact:
RTN
35 Woolart St Strathmore Vic 3041
Phone/Fax (03) 9338 3306
Website: www.nollet.com.au
Denon’s 5-channel DVD Surround Receiver has Dolby Digital & DTS
Denon’s newest model, the ADV700 surround receiver, is equipped
with both Dolby Digital and DTS 5.1
channel decoding, along with a Dolbt
Pro Logic II decoder which simulates
5.1 surround sound from a 2-channel
(stereo) source, such as conventional
CDs, discs and tapes.
DVD discs can be in either NTSC
or PAL format. You have the option
of composite video or S-video output
while DVDs also have RGB output
as well.
In audio mode, when you insert
a disc, the ADV-700 automatically
detects the sound format and plays it
in the appropriate mode. It also does
this with digital broadcast satellite
(DBS) signals.
In addition, the receiver also automatically detects CD-R and CD-RW
discs recorded in MP3 format.
Three sets of video terminals and
four sets of audio terminals are provided to connect a video player, TV
or other video and audio devices. The
ADV-700 allows you to make system
settings via your TV screen.
It also includes FM and AM tuners
covering 87.5-108MHz and 5221611kHz.
Each of the power amplifiers is
rated at 35W RMS (6 ohms, 1kHz,
10% THD).
While many of the functions are
controlled via the front panel, there is
an extremely comprehensive infrared
48 Silicon Chip
remote control unit for all functions.
Denon models are handled by
selected hifi and video retailers. For
the location of your nearest retailer,
contact the Australian distributors of
Denon, Audio Producs Australia.
Contact:
Audio Products Australia Pty Ltd
67 O'Riordan St, Alexandria NSW 2015
Phone (02) 9669 3477 Fax (02) 9578 0140
Website: http://elec.denon.co.jp/europe/
First MiniDisc player to feature Dolby Headphone
Sharp Corporation has launched
the new MD-ST880 MD player
featuring the Dolby Headphone
technology developed by Australian
company Lake Technology.
Dolby Headphone delivers a
spatialised stereo sound experience
over any ordinary stereo headphones.
The ST880 features MiniDisc
Long Play, a new encoding method
for audio on MiniDisc which effectively doubles the storage capacity.
MPLP offers two long play modes:
LP2 which will record 160 minutes
in stereo and LP4 which uses greater
compression to allow 320 minutes
recording time in stereo.
Sharp announced earlier this
week the new DV-L90TC DVD Mo-
bile Theatre with Dolby Headphone,
while in the PC sector, Sharp feature
Dolby Headphone in their recently
announced PC-MJ760C, an A4-size
all-in-one notebook PC, part of a four
model range.
Lake Technology also announced
this week a commercial partnership
with one of the leading music software companies, MUSICMATCH
Inc, which will see an aggressive
roll-out of the Lake-branded Dolby Headphone plug-in for MUSIC-MATCH Jukebox.
Contact:
Lake Technology Ltd
Box 736 Broadway NSW 2007
Phone (02) 9213 9000 Fax (02) 9211 0790
Website: www.lake.com.au
www.siliconchip.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
From here, there and everywhere
This month, I’m taking a break from my own
workshop and presenting three servicing
stories sent in by readers. They cover repairs
to two colour TV sets and an elderly VCR
with lots of problems.
Let’s get straight into it. The first
contribution comes from Mr R. H. of
Carine, Western Australia and he’s
called it “A Sad Repair Story.” I’ll let
him tell it in his own words:
It concerns a Sharp CX3451 colour
TV set which an elderly relative had
imposed on me to repair, after she
could not get a response from two
repair shops advertising in the local
newspaper.
My main business involves the
repair of switchmode power
supplies and other industrial
electronics equipment and
generally I shy away from domestic
appliance repairs. I find that, in most
cases, the time spent is much greater
than one can legiti
mately charge a
customer and even if you do charge a
modest amount, you are still accused
of overcharging.
So to my story. The set was work-
ing but could be induced to lose the
picture, with the screen collapsing to
a horizontal line, by tapping on the
outside of the case. My thoughts were
that it was obviously a loose connection or a faulty joint problem and that
it shouldn’t take too long to find. I discharged the tube before removing the
EHT lead and it was a simple matter
to remove the main board.
I thoroughly inspected the board
with a magnifying lamp but for the life
of me, I could not detect a connection
or soldered joint which I could honestly say would cause the symptom – and
I have had many years experience in
locating this type of fault. There have
not been more than a few cases where
I could not pick a faulty joint by visual
inspection but the symptoms indicated that there was almost certainly
one here.
I decided to try the shotgun approach and resolder all the most likely
suspects but as I later discovered, this
only caused the real fault to temporarily disappear. Anyway, having completed the resoldering, I put everything
back together and could not get the set
to falter when I gave the case a solid
tap, so I took it back to my relative. No
sooner had I fired it up than there was
the same fault back again.
I took it home and decided to get
the board operating out of the case.
However, the leads from the degaussing coil were too short to allow this,
so I decided to remove the tube as well
and connect everything up on the floor.
I arranged the tube with some soft
wedges to keep it upright and when
all was ready I fired it up.
I went around the suspect area of
Items Covered This Month
•
•
•
www.siliconchip.com.au
Sharp CX3451 TV set.
Sharp VC-90ET VCR.
Philips 14CF1014 portable TV
set.
September 2001 57
the board, tapping it gently with a
plastic toothbrush handle, and found
that I could induce the fault reliably
with the gentlest of touches in a fairly
small area. I thoroughly re-soldered
every joint in a diameter of 75mm
and this time, I was unable to induce
the fault when the board was tapped.
I had fixed the fault for sure but this
was not the end of the story.
During the time the whole box
and dice was set up on the floor, I
had forgotten to reconnect the lead
which connects the aquadag of the
tube to the 0V rail on the PC board
and the tube was thus sitting several thousand volts above chassis.
Unfortunately, due to the very short
de
guassing coil leads, the aqua
dag
finished up within a couple of millimetres of the metal casing housing the
infrared receiver module.
I remembered I had heard a spark
jump while tapping the board and
looking for the original fault but I had
not actually seen it. Since it appeared
58 Silicon Chip
to have had no effect on the picture or
the manual operation of the set using
the front panel controls, I concluded it
was of no consequence. I didn’t have
the remote control unit with me anyway so I couldn’t check it out.
At this stage, I decided to put it all
together and deliver it once again to
my relative who was pleased as punch
when I demonstrated that the original
fault was now fixed. However, shortly
after arriving home, I received a phone
call from my relative to tell me that
the remote control was not working.
Uh-oh, I thought, maybe that spark
was telling me something after all. I
decided to leave it until the next day
and work on it then. I suspected that
the IR module was dead and hoped
that that was all there was to it.
I removed the module (a Sharp
GP1U5 IR receiver), connected it to a
5V supply and connected a CRO to the
output. Sure enough, the module was
self-triggering in an erratic manner
without any signal being received. I
checked the Sharp parts supplier and
he had a unit in stock at around $16.
I thought this was rather high, so I
decided to try the Tandy GP1U5 copy
(276-0137) at $3.90. This Tandy unit
was a vertical mount model but I was
able to remove the internal PC board,
change the connection pins and then
remount it in the horizontal casing
from the original unit.
This unit worked perfectly when
tested on the bench, the unit responding to the remote control with
a no-load output signal of around 5V
p-p. I then refitted the module to the
main PC board, connected everything
together and gave it a try. It did not
respond to the remote control so out
it came again.
Next, I decided to just try the board
without connecting the tube but in
order to do this safely it was first
necessary to remove the horizontal
output transistor to prevent the EHT
zapping anything.
I connected the CRO to the output
of the IR module and when the remote
was operated, the signal amplitude
was only around 400mV p-p. This
was insufficient to drive anything
in the 54-pin Sharp IX1703CEZZ IC.
De-soldering pin 46 on this IC and
checking with a diode tester showed
that the internal protection zener on
this input measured high leakage in
the reverse direction, thus indicating
it was indeed zapped.
A new IC from Sharp was going to
cost $43.50 (ouch!) and would take
several days to obtain from Sydney.
It seems that my small oversight in
not connecting that chassis lead had
accidentally led to both the IR module
and the function control IC taking a
direct hit and thus resulting in my
good deed for my relative costing more
than anticipated.
Multi-standard VCR
The next contribution comes from
Mr A. B. of Glen Waverley, Victoria.
He calls it “ The (more than) Multi-Standard VCR.”
The machine in question was an
elderly Sharp VC-90ET VCR, a topof-the-line, multi-standard unit that
does everything. It has stereo hifi, will
record/playback NTSC, SECAM & PAL
(all at a bewildering variety of chroma
frequencies), and features standard
play and long play. All-in-all, a very
fine machine.
It was, alas, somewhat sick, hence
www.siliconchip.com.au
its arrival at my workshop. The owner
brought it in saying “you were recommended by my neighbour, you fixed
up her 78 RPM gramophone.” This set
me back somewhat; I know I’ve been
fixing things for a while but I am not
that ancient! Actually, it was an old
Garrard turntable that I’d repaired, so
that some vintage jazz 78s could be
copied onto tape but that’s another
story.
The Sharp VCR was not well – the
front panel display was very dim,
the mechanism was making horrible
grinding noises, it was chewing tapes
and the audio was shocking. As well,
there was some patterning on the received off-air picture.
This latter problem was tackled first.
This VCR, like most modern machines,
has an RF output in the UHF band and
this needed to be checked. To do this,
the test switch on the back of the set
was turned on and the workshop TV
set put into search mode until the two
white tuning bars were found. The test
switch was then set to “Off” and the
poor picture revealed.
When the VCR operate switch was
turned off, the monitor screen produced a faint Ch31 picture – ie, classic
co-channel interference. By using a
small screwdriver, I was able to adjust
the RF output clear of the occupied
channel and a good picture came
up.
Next, a dummy tape was inserted
and the machine put through its paces.
Fast forward and rewind (FF/REW)
were horrible – the capstan motor
obviously had dry bearings (a common
problem) and a squirt of CRC 226 gave
a temporary cure, pending a proper
motor strip down and clean/lubricate.
The PLAY mode was then selected
and this started the head drum and
moved the tape guides into position,
as expected. I then pressed the EJECT
button. The cassette ejected OK but the
guides hadn’t retracted, which meant
that the tape hadn’t unlaced. Little
wonder it was chewing up tapes.
This sequence was repeated a few
times and there were variations –
sometimes it would work perfectly,
sometimes the head drum wouldn’t
start and sometimes it displayed the
original behaviour. This indicated an
intermittent mode switch so it was removed and cleaned, which cured this
fault. As well, during all these repairs,
the relevant drive and loading belts
were progressively replaced.
www.siliconchip.com.au
The sub-loading arm was also very
stiff (this manifests itself as no – or
erratic – tape counter) and so this was
also sprayed with CRC 226.
The final mechanical problem was
poor rewind, especially the last few
minutes of a tape (or the first few
minutes if playing from the beginning
of the tape). The cure for this is to
disconnect power, remove the cas
sette cradle, and manually rotate the
loading motor until all arms, etc are
clear of the take-up reel. This is then
removed, the dust, etc cleaned out
from underneath, the soft brake pads
deglazed from the two brake arms and
the rotation sensor cleaned. It sounds
complicated but it’s easy after you’ve
done it a few hundred times!
As a final step, the worn (glazed)
pinch roller was re
placed and the
heads (ie, audio/video/control/erase)
cleaned. We now had a mechanically
functioning VCR.
The next step was to repair the
front panel display. This problem
was traced to multiple faulty and out
of tolerance capacitors in the power
supply module – again, so far so good
and I now had a nice bright readable
display.
The last (and most perplexing) fault
involved a number of audio problems.
The VCR was connected to the workshop stereo amplifier and speakers,
and a stereo test tape run. This resulted
in the classic “chuff chuff “ sound of
an FM carrier dropping in and out. My
first thought was worn audio heads –
very rare on Sharp machines but not
unknown.
The pins from the head drum were
desoldered and the Q of the heads
measured – they were still excellent
and more to the point, both heads
were very close to the same reading.
This ruled out worn/damaged heads.
A further test at this stage is to select
PLAY and listen – with the stereo
heads physically disconnected, the
machine should default to mono audio
and any FM noise should disappear.
As well, the front panel level meter
should show a mono signal.
This wasn’t happening; there was
still heaps of noise and the level meters
were showing stereo L and R – not
possible! As well, it was now observed
that there was FM white noise coming
through with the mono signal on the
monitor. I resoldered the heads in
disgust and wandered off for a cup of
tea and a good think!
The Tiger
comes to
Australia
The BASIC, Tiny and Economy
Tigers are sold in Australia by
JED, with W98/NT software and
local single board systems.
Tigers are modules running true compiled multitasking BASIC in a 16/32 bit core, with typically
512K bytes of FLASH (program and data)
memory and 32/128/512 K bytes of RAM. The
Tiny Tiger has four, 10 bit analog ins, lots of
2
digital I/O, two UARTs, SPI, I C, 1-wire, RTC and
has low cost W98/NT compile, debug and
download software.
JED makes four Australian boards with up to 64
screw-terminal I/O, more UARTs & LCD/keyboard support. See JED's www site for data.
TIG505 Single Board
Computer
The TIG505 is
an Australian
SBC using the
TCN1/4 or
TCN4/4 Tiger
processor with
512K FLASH
and 128/512K RAM. It has 50 I/O lines, 2
RS232/485 ports, SPI, RTC, LCD, 4 ADC, 4 (opt.)
DAC, and DataFLASH memory expansion.
Various Xilinx FPGAs can add 3x 32bit quad shaft
encoder, X10 or counter/timer functions. See
www site for data.
$330 PC-PROM Programmer
This programmer plugs into a PC printer port and
reads, writes and edits any 28 or 32-pin PROM.
Comes with plug-pack, cable and software.
Also available is a multi-PROM UV eraser with
timer, and a 32/32 PLCC converter.
JED Microprocessors Pty Ltd
173 Boronia Rd, Boronia, Victoria, 3155
Ph. 03 9762 3588, Fax 03 9762 5499
www.jedmicro.com.au
September 2001 59
The machine had been left running
while the cup of tea was organised
and, while idly sitting with the brain
in neutral, I suddenly realised that
there was modulation coming through
the stereo speakers but that it wasn’t
from the tape – it was from a local AM
broadcast station! I traced out the audio lead from the head amplifier pack
and noticed that just wrapping my
fingers around the connector where
it entered the audio processing board
was enough to remove the interference. This was obviously not a longterm solution unless I was prepared to
move in with the customers!
The connecting lead was removed
and the continuity of signal conductors and earth screening was checked
– all OK. What now? – the thing looked
like it was functioning as designed and
the manufacturer had provided proper screening of the low level signal
leads. And then I suddenly thought
of the junk pile at the back of the
workshop.
I had scrapped a whole pile of
monochrome IBM monitors a few
years back and remembered they all
had toroid formers on the signal input
leads, obviously put there to suppress
any noise from the computer radiating
via the monitor leads. One of these
60 Silicon Chip
was chopped off the IBM, and as luck
would have it, there was a big enough
hole to pass the connectors on the end
of the Sharp audio lead. There was
also enough cable to be able to wind
two turns around the toroid. This was
lashed into place with nylon cable ties
and, much to my relief, the problem
was cured!
A follow-up phone call a few weeks
later to the customer revealed all was
well and they were recommending
me to all and sundry .... an ideal way
to finish a job!
Faulty memory
Contribution number three comes
from Mr J. R. of Deer Park, Victoria.
There may be a temptation to describe
it as a memory fault – but it has nothing to do with computers. Anyway,
this is his story.
I’m a TV/video tech by trade but I’m
now on a disability pension. I did a
mature-age apprenticeship which took
me through a few employers who fixed
all kinds of gear, ranging from TV sets
to video and audio equipment. My
last job involved computer monitor
repairs.
These days, I fix electronic equipment for friends. I maintain a small
workshop in my 3m x 3m shed and
carry a reasonable stock of passive and
active spare parts, mainly for electronic projects from SILICON CHIP which I
build for myself or mates.
Recently, one of my mates landed
me with a Philips portable TV set
Model 14CF1014 (CF-1 chassis), explaining that it was his daughter’s set
and that she had been complaining of
funny colours. She uses this set mainly
for her beloved Playstation. He also
complained that, on some of the games
she played, the picture would roll.
The second fault I already knew
about (of which more later) and I
didn’t think the second would be hard
to fix, so I told him it should be ready
in a day or two. He urged me to fix it
ASAP as, in the meantime, she would
want to use his main TV set for her
game playing and he’d miss out on all
his favourite shows. I promised him
top priority.
When I switched the set on, I found
that all the colours were indeed wrong.
I was watching soccer highlights and
found that the grass was blue and
the player’s faces were green. I then
switched my workshop portable on
to compare the colour differences and
found that a billboard which should
have been green was actually red.
I’d seen this fault before many years
ago in an old Princess TV set and
I attributed that fault to a faulty
colour processor chip. Feeling that
this would also be the problem
here, I attacked this section first.
First, I measured all the pins on
the chrominance/luminance chip,
which was a TDA3560 (designated
as 7192). These all measured OK
so I next checked transistor 7148
(BC548), the Y signal buffer, for
correct voltages. These were also
spot on and capacitors 2218 (2.2µF),
2191 (1µF) and 2192 (22µF) were all
within tolerance.
I next checked the 185V rail filter
capacitor (3.3µF 250V) and found
it to be down to only 1µF. Bingo! I
replaced this with a sturdy 350V job,
turned the set on and found I was
back to square one; still the same
mismatch. Damn – I thought I had
it. I was now beginning to suspect
the aforementioned TDA3560 chip. I
didn’t have one in stock so I ordered
one from my supplier.
When the chip arrived the following day. I proceeded to fit it. But
prior to that, I’d fitted an IC socket
to make the job easy. Isn’t it strange
www.siliconchip.com.au
how quickly one likes to know whether you were right with your diagnosis
or not? After a quick fit and a turn on, I
stared at the screen in disbelief. I was
still seeing mixed colours. So much
for blaming the chip. Where to now?
I plonked the set face down on the
bench and began making some more
voltage checks in the hope that I had
missed something. As I was prodding,
around the chroma chip, I decided to
look at the picture by tilting the set
up and bending down to look at the
screen. To my surprise, all the colours
were back to normal!
What did I do to fix it? I well remember a computer monitor that had
a no-power fault but fired up when
I touched my multi
meter probe on
a resistor in the start-up circuit. But
what could I have prodded to get this
set to behave normally? The answer
soon came.
I switched the set off and stood it
up into its correct position and fired
it up. The mixed colours were back.
Ah-ha! Now I’ve got you! With the set
still on, I then turned it face down. The
colours went back to normal.
I now knew I had a purity problem,
not a colour-processing fault as I originally had thought. I turned the set off,
turned it back into its correct position,
and went straight for the degaussing
thermistor. When I pulled it out, I gave
it a bit of a shake, and I could hear
something rattling inside. I’d finally
found the culprit.
Luckily I had one in stock and fitted
it. I switched on – the picture was still
a bit poor but a whole lot better than
before. I brought out my magic wand
and degaussed the set and that was it –
a perfect picture. I did a few geometry
and white balance adjustments and the
set came up like new.
Now I had to tackle the vertical
hold problem. I removed the vertical
hold adjustment – a 1MΩ trimpot
(3413) – and replaced it with three
wires to which I joined a large 1MΩ
pot. Then I drilled a hole in the front
panel (bottom right) and fitted the pot
in there. They now have an external
vertical hold control.
A cheaper way of doing this is to
adjust the original trimpot to a centre
frequency, between 50Hz and 60Hz.
To do this, you need a chipped Play
station and a PAL and NTSC game.
You alternate, changing between the
PAL and NTSC games, while slightly
adjusting the trimmer until you get
no picture roll on either formats. And
that’s it – instant fix but I like to give
friends an external control.
My friend didn’t waste time picking
up the set. His daughter had complained that the large 68cm TV set
she had purloined for her Playstation
were making all the characters look
too big and she wanted her little set
back.
When I think back to my apprenticeship days, I remember being told to degauss a set with gross colour problems
first before condemning the electronics.
Looks like I need more experience . . .
SC
or a better memory.
K&W HEATSINK EXTRUSION. SEE OUR WEBSITE FOR
THE COMPLETE OFF THE SHELF RANGE.
www.siliconchip.com.au
September 2001 61
Personal Noise
for Tinnitus
This Personal Noise Source produces pink or white noise and can be
used to drive headphones or an external speaker to block out unwanted
noise. It has been specifically designed for Tinnitus sufferers but can be
used by anyone who wants to mask unwanted sound.
W
low level broad band noise. TRT does
frogs in a fishpond, right outside his
hy would you want a Pernot cure Tinnitus but it does make
bedroom window, who play “who
sonal Noise Source? Isn’t
it manageable for people who are
can make the loudest mating calls”
there already enough noise
severely affected.
all night (they’re silent during the day,
in this world?
of course!). Now frogs are a protected
Well, believe us, if you suffer from
Want more information on Tinnispecies and our bloke doesn’t want the
Tinnitus, this Personal Noise Genertus? There is not much more to tell
wrath of the Government Inspector of
ator is virtually the only treatment
although there are lots of websites
Frogs coming down on him. Switch on
available. It is cheap and you can do
devoted to it. Just call up your favourthe PNS and – ahh, bliss: sleep at last!
it yourself.
ite search engine (Yahoo, Google etc),
type in Tinnitus and you will find lots
When we said the PNS blocks noise,
If you have never suffered Tinnitus,
of references.
that’s not strictly true. It doesn’t really
congratulations; you are fortunate.
block it out: it more “masks” it by
You don’t know what it’s like. Tinnitus
OK, that’s enough about Tinnitus
increasing the ambient level so that
is the perception of sound when no
for the moment. Even if you don’t
the unwanted noise is much less obexternal sound is present. Commonly
suffer from this affliction, there are
trusive. The “noise” from the PNS is
referred to as “ringing in the ears”,
times when a low-level noise source
something you can live with – in fact,
Tinnitus may sound like humming,
can be really helpful in blocking out
it is often quite soothing. It has been
clicking, buzzing, ringing, hissing,
extraneous noise.
likened to what you hear from
roaring, whistling or crickets. One of
For example, if you are trying to
a soft waterfall or a stream
the staff members of SILICON
cascading down rocks.
CHIP occasionally experiences it and he reports that
The Personal Noise Source
it sounds like a tone at about
is
built into a small plastic
or loudspeaker case and as mentioned
e
on
ph
ad
he
400Hz. Fortunately, in his
r
fo
e
bl
ita
❍ Su
case it rarely lasts for more
above, can be connected to
noise output
than a few minutes.
headphones or to a small
❍ Pink or white
ed
at
er
loudspeaker. It can be powTinnitus may be intermitop
ck
pa
❍ Battery or plug
ered from a DC plugpack or
tent or constant and may vary
e control
9V battery. It includes a volin loudness depending on
❍ Inbuilt volum
ume control and can prostress, medications and the
vide pink or white noise.
surrounding environment.
What’s the difference?
Most people who experisleep and a nearby neighbour is havence Tinnitus are not really
“White” and “pink” noise
ing a boisterous pool party: switch on
bothered by it. But some people find
this Personal Noise Source (PNS) and
that it seriously disturbs their sleep
White noise has equal energy per
you can blank it all out. Or maybe you
while others find it really debilitating.
constant bandwidth. So the 1kHz
are trying to study and someone else
band from 1kHz to 2kHz will have the
For those people who are seriously
in the family persists in listening to a
same energy level as the 1kHz band
affected, Tinnitus Retraining TherMarilyn Manson CD; again, switch on
from 10kHz to 11kHz. In practice, this
apy (TRT) can provide an effective
your PNS and blot it out of existence.
means that white noise has a 3dB rise
treatment. Developed by Dr Jawel
Another of our staff members has
in amplitude for every octave.
Jastreboff, TRT involves the use of
atures
Personal Noise Source Fe
62 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
se Source
SUfferers
By JOHN CLARKE
Pink noise has a flat frequency
response or equal energy for each
octave; the energy from 20Hz to 40Hz
is the same as the energy from 10kHz
to 20kHz. In effect, this means that
pink noise sounds more subdued and
less harsh than white noise. Putting it
another way, pink noise has more bass
and less treble than white noise.
Pink noise is also used for measuring
loudspeaker systems so even if you don’t
need this PNS for blanking out unwanted noise it could be handy if you are
involved in developing loudspeakers.
Circuit description
Fig.1 shows the circuit diagram. It
comprises a white noise source (Q1),
www.siliconchip.com.au
amplifier (IC1a), pink (low pass) filter
and further amplification (IC1b), followed by the volume control (VR1)
and power amplifier (IC2).
Transistor Q1 is the noise source. Its
base-emitter junction is connected the
“wrong way around” so that reverse
current flows. Normally this could
lead to breakdown of the transistor
but the 180kΩ series resistor limits
the breakdown current to about 30µA
so no damage occurs.
Connected this way, Q1 functions
like a zener diode and produces a
noise signal across the 180kΩ current
limiting resistor. The supply to Q1 is
decoupled with a 470Ω resistor and
1000µF capacitor and a 12V zener
diode regulates the voltage so that the
noise level is constant regardless of
changes in the supply voltage.
The noise signal is coupled to pin 3
of op amp IC1a via a 0.1µF capacitor.
IC1a is set to provide a gain of 11 by
virtue of the 100kΩ resistor between
pins 1 and 2 and by the 10kΩ resistor in
series with the 1µF capacitor. The 1µF
capacitor rolls off frequencies below
16Hz while the 10pF capacitor across
the 100kΩ feedback resistor rolls of
frequencies above 160kHz.
Pink noise filter
The output of IC1a drives a fairly
complex RC network which functions
as the pink noise filter. It attenuates the
September 2001 63
white noise at a rate of 3dB per octave.
This filter is accurate to ±0.25dB from
10Hz to 40kHz, assuming close tolerance capacitors.
Switch S2 enables the pink noise
filtering to be disabled to let the white
noise through without attenuation.
Depending on how S2 is set, the
pink or white noise is AC-coupled to
pin 5 of op amp IC1b via a 0.1µF capacitor. When S2 is closed, the 220kΩ and
10kΩ feedback resistors for IC1b set
the gain at 23. Low frequency rolloff
is set at 16Hz with the 1µF capacitor.
The 4.7pF capacitor across the 220kΩ
resistor gives high frequency rolloff
above 153kHz.
But not only does switch S2 determine whether or not the pink noise
filter is enabled, it also changes the
gain of the following op amp stage
involving IC1b. When S2 is open,
the negative side of the 1µF capacitor associated with a 10kΩ resistor
is disconnected from ground and is
effectively connected to the pin 1
output of IC1a via the pink noise filter components. This means that the
output signal from IC1a is fed to both
the inverting and non-inverting inputs
of IC1b. The gain for the non-inverting
input is 23, as noted previously, while
the gain for the inverting input is -22.
Adding these two gains together gives
a gain of 1.
This means that the gain for the
white noise signal is unity while the
gain for pink noise is 23. This higher
gain for pink noise compensates for
the signal loss in the pink noise filter.
Fig.2 shows the pink and white noise
frequency response for the circuit.
The output of IC1b is AC-coupled
via a 10µF capacitor to the volume
control potentiometer VR1 and then
AC-coupled again to anLM386 power
amplifier, IC2. Its gain is set to 200 by
the 22µF capacitor between pins 1 and
8. The amplifier drives the external
speaker or headphone load via a 470µF
capacitor and a 4.7Ω resistor. There is
also a Zobel network, comprising a
.047µF capacitor and a 10Ω resistor,
which is included to ensure high frequency stability.
The speaker output is connected
Fig.1 (left): the reverse-biased baseemitter junction of Q1 generates the
noise in this circuit. It is amplified by
IC1a and IC1b and the RC network
following IC1a is the pink noise filter.
64 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
AUDIO PRECISION AMPLNOIS BANDPASS(dBr) vs BPBR(Hz)
20.000
06 MAY 100 04:02:31
15.000
10.000
5.0000
Fig.2: the pink
noise output has
a flat frequency
response while
the white noise
shows a rising
response with
frequency.
0.0
-5.000
-10.00
-15.00
-20.00
T TTT
20
TT
100
1k
via a 6.5mm stereo jack so that it can
drive stereo headphones (with both
channels commoned to provide mono
mode) or a mono amplifier. The 4.7Ω
resistor is series with the jack socket
is included to prevent damage to the
LM386 which could otherwise occur if
a mono jack is inserted into the stereo
output socket.
Power for the circuit is derived from
a DC plugpack or 9V battery. Reverse
polarity protection is provided using
diode D1 which prevents reverse
current into IC1 and IC2. However,
the supply for Q1 is taken before the
diode to allow the maximum voltage
from the battery. This is important
since Q1 breaks down at around 7V
or so. Once the battery drops below
7V, Q1 will be no longer produce any
noise and the battery will need to be
replaced.
Reverse polarity protection is not
strictly necessary for Q1 since it would
be biased in the forward direction and
the zener diode, ZD1 will conduct in
the reverse direction and prevent the
10k
20k
voltage exceeding 0.6V.
The half-supply voltage for the op
amps in IC1 is set using two series
connected 10kΩ resistors across the
Q1 supply and is decoupled with a
100µF capacitor. The power LED is
driven via a 2.2kΩ resistor while the
whole supply is decoupled using a
470µF capacitor.
The DC socket connects the negative
terminal of the 9V battery to ground
of the circuit via an internal switch
contact. The contact is opened if a
DC plug is inserted, thus isolating
the battery from the 12V plugpack
supply.
Construction
All the parts of the Personal Noise
Source are assembled onto a PC
board measuring 60 x 70mm and
coded 01109011. This
is housed in a plastic
case measuring 130
x 68 x 41mm. Fig.3
shows the PC board
overlay and all the ex-
ternal wiring.
Begin construction by checking the
PC board for shorts between tracks or
any breaks in the copper tracks. The
corners of the PC board should be cut
out so as to clear the pillars within
the box.
You can begin assembly by inserting
the PC stakes followed by the links
and resistors. The resistor colour
codes are shown in Table 1. It is a
good idea to use a digital multimeter
to check each resistor value as you
install it.
Next, insert and solder in the diode
and zener diode, making sure that they
are oriented correctly. Then insert and
solder IC1 and IC2. Table 2 shows the
codes you may need when installing
the capacitors. The electrolytic types
must be oriented correctly with the
positive side placed as shown on the
overlay diagram. Note that one of the
1µF electrolytics is positioned on its
side as shown in the photograph. This
is to allow the 9V battery to fit over
this area of the PC board.
Transistor Q1 is inserted next, along
with the DC socket, the 6.35mm jack
socket and pot VR1. The pot can be
mounted onto the PC stakes on the PC
board if it is a long shaft type.
Scrape the coating off the pot body
where it will be soldered to the two
ground PC stakes. If you are using a
pot with a short fluted shaft, mount
it directly on the box lid and make
the connections to the PC board
with hookup wire. LED 1 needs to be
mounted with its top 29mm above the
PC board.
Drill holes in the
end of the case for
the DC power socket
and 6.35mm jack
Fig.3: a stereo output
jack is used to allow
connection of stereo
headphones. If you are
using a speaker, you
will need to connect
it with a stereo jack
plug. Do not use a
mono jack otherwise it
will short the output.
www.siliconchip.com.au
September 2001 65
Parts list –
Personal Noise Source
1 PC board coded 01109011,
60 x 70mm
1 plastic box, 130 x 68 x 41mm
1 front panel label, 125 x 63mm
2 SPST mini rocker switches
(S1,S2; Altronics S-3202)
1 PC-mount DC panel socket
with 2.5mm pin
1 10kΩ log pot (VR1)
1 PC-mount 6.35mm stereo jack
socket
1 stereo 6.35mm jack plug
1 9V battery clip holder
(Altronics S-5050)
1 9V battery snap
1 knob to suit VR1
11 PC stakes
1 M3 x 6mm screw and nut
1 50mm length of 0.8mm tinned
copper wire
1 100mm length of light gauge
figure-8 wire
Semiconductors
1 TL072 dual op amp (IC1)
1 LM386N-1 amplifier (IC2)
1 BC548 NPN transistor (Q1)
1 12V 1W zener diode (ZD1)
1 1N4004 1A diode (D1)
1 5mm red LED (LED1)
Capacitors
1 1000µF 16VW PC electrolytic
2 470µF 16VW PC electrolytic
1 100µF 16VW PC electrolytic
1 47µF 16VW PC electrolytic
2 10µF 16VW PC electrolytic
3 1µF 16VW PC electrolytic
1 0.27µF MKT polyester
4 0.1µF MKT polyester
3 .047µF MKT polyester
1 .033µF MKT polyester
1 10pF ceramic
1 4.7pF ceramic
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
2 1MΩ
1 220kΩ 1 180kΩ
1 100kΩ 4 10kΩ
1 6.8kΩ
1 3kΩ
1 2.2kΩ
1 1kΩ
1 470Ω
1 300Ω
1 10Ω
1 4.7Ω
Table 2: CAPACITOR CODES
Value
0.27uF
0.1uF
10pF
4.7pF
IEC code
270n
100n
10p
4p7
66 Silicon Chip
EIA code
274
104
10
4.7
This “opened-out”
photo of the project
shows the PC board
and its connections
to the switches on
the front panel. The
pot, DC and output
sockets are all PC
board mounting.
Inset is the 9V
battery holder
– note the nut
soldered in place.
Table 1: RESISTOR COLOUR CODES
No.
2
1
1
1
4
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
Value
1MΩ
220kΩ
180kΩ
100kΩ
10kΩ
6.8kΩ
3kΩ
2.2kΩ
1kΩ
470Ω
300Ω
10Ω
4.7Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black green brown
red red yellow brown
brown grey yellow brown
brown black yellow brown
brown black orange brown
blue grey red brown
orange black red brown
red red red brown
brown black red brown
yellow violet brown brown
orange black brown brown
brown black black brown
yellow violet gold brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black yellow brown
red red black orange brown
brown grey black orange brown
brown black black orange brown
brown black black red brown
blue grey black brown brown
orange black black brown brown
red red black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
yellow violet black black brown
orange black black black brown
brown black black gold brown
yellow violet black silver brown
www.siliconchip.com.au
socket and on the side for the battery
clip screw. One of the integral PC board
slots will need to be removed to allow
the battery clip to sit flush with the
inside of the box.
Use the front panel artwork as a
guide to drilling the holes for the
switches, LED and pot shaft. The cutouts for the switches are drilled and
then filed to shape. Attach the front
panel label and cut out the holes in
this with a sharp utility knife.
The PC board is inserted into the
case with the ZD1 end going in first.
The jack socket is then slid along to
protrude through the end hole and
is secured with its nut. Washers will
be required on the jack socket inside
the case.
Attach the switches to the case lid
and wire them as per the wiring diagram of Fig.3. Solder the battery clip
leads in place and attach the battery
clip holder. We found that it is easier
to first solder the nut to the inside of
this clip before attempting to mount
it with a screw.
Here’s how the
whole lot goes
together. The PC
board snaps into
place on the side
guides – there
are no screws
to hold it in.
Testing
You can apply power to the circuit
using a 12V DC plugpack, power supply set at 12V or with a 9V battery. LED
1 should light when powered. Check
that the voltage at pins 1, 3, 5 & 7 of
IC1 is at half-supply. The base- emitter
voltage for Q1 should be around 7V.
If it is equal to the supply voltage,
check that the transistor is soldered
in correctly.
Note that some transistors break
down above 7V and you may need to
select a BC548 which has the lowest
voltage across it if the PNS is to be
battery-powered.
The voltage at pins 3 & 5 of IC2
should be at nominal half-supply.
Connect a set of headphones or loudspeaker via the jack socket and check
that there is noise available both for the
white and pink settings of S2.
Current consumption at normal
listening levels is around 25mA when
driving a 4Ω speaker. This drops below 15mA with higher impedance
headphones attached to the socket.
This is OK for battery use but if you
want to use it for long periods with an
external speaker, a DC plugpack is the
only practical approach.
Remember that the loudspeaker
must be connected via a stereo jack. If
you use a mono jack, the output will
SC
be shorted.
www.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.4: actual size artwork for the PC board.
Fig.5: actual size artwork for the front panel.
September 2001 67
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions from
readers are welcome and will be paid for at standard rates.
Switchable output
crystal oscillator
This oscillator circuit permits
crystals to be electronically switched
by logic commands. The circuit is
best understood by initially ignoring
all crystals. Furthermore, assume
that all diodes are shorts and their
associated 1kΩ resistors open.
The two 1kΩ resistors at the
non-inverting input of IC1 (LT1016)
set the output to half the supply, ie,
+2.5V. The RC network from the
output to pin 3 sets up phase-shifted
feedback and the circuit looks like
a wide-band unity gain follower at
DC.
When crystal X1 is inserted (remember, D1 is temporarily shorted)
positive feedback occurs and oscillation commences at the crystal’s
resonant frequency.
If D1 and its 1kΩ resistor are then
REG1
LM317T
IN
9V
BATTERY
OUT
ADJ
considered to be
part of the circuit,
oscillation can only
continue if logic
input A is biased
high. Similarly, the
circuit can only operate at crystal X2’s
frequency if logic input B is high.
Additional crystal/
diode/1kΩ resistor
branches permit logic selection of the
crystal frequency.
For AT cut crystals about a millisecond is required for
the circuit output
to stabilise due to
the high Q factors
involved. Crystal frequencies can
be as high as 16MHz before propagation delays in the comparator
13
330
RESISTANCE
UNDER
TEST
+
MULTIMETER
The circuit of the Low Ohms Adapter gives good results
for such a simple circuit.
prevent reliable operation.
Linear Technology
application note.
Low Ohms Adaptor
for DMMs based on
an LM317 regulator
This adaptor circuit is essentially a
100mA constant current source. It is
applied across a low-value resistor of
unknown value (ie, the resistance to
be measured) and the resulting voltage
drop can then be measured by a digital
UM66 SERIES TO-92
SOUND GENERATOR.
THESE LOW COST IC’S
ARE USED IN MANY TOYS,
DOORBELLS AND NOVELTY
APPLICATIONS
1-9
$1.10
10-24 $0.99
25+
$0.88
EACH INC GST
68 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
$
$
$
$
$
$
$
$
$
$
$
$
$
$
$
$
$
$
$
$
$
$
$
$
$
$
$
$
$
$ As you can see, we pay good money for
$
$
$ each of the “Circuit Notebook” contributions $
$
$
$
$ published. But now
$
$ there’s an even better
$
$
$
$ reason to send in
$
$ your circuit idea:
$
$
$
$ each month, the
$
$
$
$ best contribution
$
$ published will
$
$
$
$ win
winone
oneof
of
$
$
$
$ these superb
$
$ Wavetek Meterman
$
$
$
85XT
true
RMS
$
$
$ multimeters - valued
$
$
$
$ at around $380!
$
$
$
$ So don’t keep that
$
$ brilliant circuit secret
$
$
$
$ any more: send it to
$
$ SILICON CHIP and
$
$
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$ you could be a winner!
$
$
$ Contributions must be your own original work or a major $
$ adaptation and not published elsewhere nor submitted for $
$
$ publication elsewhere. SILICON CHIP’s decision is final.
$
$
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
CONTRIBUTE
AND
WIN!
1
meter to
win every
month!
multimeter (DMM).
Setting your DMM to the 200mV
range will enable it to measure up to
2Ω with high resolution while the 2V
range will give a maximum resistance
measurement of 20Ω.
Construction could consist of
mounting the LM317 adjustable 3-terminal regulator inside a small plastic
box together with the battery and two
resistors connected to the output and
Adj pins.
No on/off switch is required since
no current will be drawn when no
external resistance is connected across
the Test terminals.
Accuracy using 1% resistors should
be within 5% and this could be improved by measuring the current,
adjusting the resistance between the
output and Adj pins of the LM317 to
provide a precise 100mA.
Before using the adaptor, check that
your meter is not likely to be damaged by having the full output (6V+)
applied when it is set to a low voltage
range.
Similarly, be aware that the voltage
and current output of the adaptor may
damage components if you use it for
“in-circuit” tests.
Peter Chamberlain,
Strathfield South, NSW. ($30)
www.siliconchip.com.au
LED number display uses parallel port
DIGIT 1
+5V
TO PC
PARALLEL
PORT
2
DB0
7
3
DB1
1
4
DB2
2
5
DB3
6
16
5
4
A
3
B C D
TO NEXT
4511
A
VDD
B
C
D
LE
IC2
4511
BI
LT
a
13
8
7x
220
a
12
b
11
c
10
d
9
e
15
f
g 14
b
c
f
b
g
d
e e
f
g
VSS
DP
8
18-25
a
c
d
COM
+5V
+5V
16
6
6
DB4
1
7
DB5
2
8
DB6
1
STROBE
E
VCC
Y0
Y1
A0
Y2
15
14
13
DIGIT 2
12
DIGIT 3
IC1
Y3
74HC138
11
Y4
A2
10
4
Y5
E1
9
5
Y6
E2
7
Y7
GND
8
3
A1
DIGIT 4
TO 4511 LT PIN
This circuit was developed as part of an MP3 player based Philip Chugg is
this
month’s winner
on an old computer. The 2-digit display indicates which
of the Wavetek
song is playing. The LED display has the advantage that
Meterman 85XT
it is readable from a distance compared to a 2-line LCD.
true RMS digita
l
The circuit could be used for other applications such as a
multimeter.
programmable calculator, stop-watch clock or scoreboard.
The circuit uses a 74HC138 one-of-eight decoder connected to three data lines from the parallel port and a
4511 BCD to 7-segment decoder driver for each LED digit.
The software was written using Q basic but should be
easily converted to other languages. This example will
output a 4-digit (or less) number to the parallel port to be displayed
on a 4-digit LED display:
CONST PPort = &H378
Number = 1234
n1$ = STR$(Number)
n2$ = RIGHT$(n1$, LEN(n1$) - 1)
FOR a = 4 TO 1 STEP -1
IF a > LEN(n2$) THEN
lo = 15
ELSE
n$ = MID$(n2$, LEN(n2$) - a + 1, 1)
lo = VAL(n$)
END IF
hi = a * 16
OUT PPort, hi + lo
OUT PPort, lo
OUT PPort + 2, 1
NEXT
Philip Chugg,
Rocherlea, Tas.
'default address of parallel port (1)
'number to display
'convert number to string
'remove leading blank space
'this example uses 4 digit display
'is this digit used?
'not used, blank it out (can be 0)
'digit to be displayed normally
'get 1 digit only
‘convert to byte
'select digit to be displayed
'write value lo to digit hi
'select digit 0 (unused) fix timing error
'lock display
'get next
September 2001 69
Hear
Hear here!
here! It’s
It’s The
The
Sooper
Snooper
. . . With catlike tread,
Upon our prey
we steal;
In silence drea
d,
Our cautious w
ay we feel.
No sound at al
l!
We never spea
k a word;
A fly’s foot-fal
l
Would be distin
ctly heard . .
.
(from The Pira
tes of Penzance
)
Ever wanted to listen in to a quiet conversation on the other side of the street?
You can with the Sooper Snooper!
Ever wanted to listen in to bird calls without disturbing the birds?
You can with the Sooper Snooper!
Ever wanted to listen in to termites munching their way through your home?
You can with the Sooper Snooper!
Article by
Ross Tester
I
f all this sounds a bit hard to
believe, we have to admit that we
were a bit skeptical too. That is,
until we tried out this amazing device.
Or more correctly, two devices. That’s
because there are two versions of the
Sooper Snooper, depending on what
you want to do with it/them.
70 Silicon Chip
One form, the type pictured above,
has a small parabolic reflector with a
microphone mounted “near enough”
to its focal point.
This particular Sooper Snooper is
the one you would use to listen in
to distant conversations, bird calls,
etc – anything in the open air which
would normally be too far away or too
faint to hear.
The second type of Sooper Snooper
is pictured above right.
It has a microphone physically connected to a “probe” which is touched
against the object you want to listen
to – such things as bearings inside a
www.siliconchip.com.au
Here’s the direct connection Snooper.
Both it and the Parabolic model use
almost identical electronics – the main
difference is the microphones and
their mounting.
hard disk drive (see, boss, I told you
my hard disk was getting old!), vehicle engine noises (it’s an old-time
mechanic’s trick to hold a screwdriver
on an engine block with the other end
pushed against the ear – this one works
on the same principle), you can even
hear the water rushing through pipes
– and much, much more.
And yes, you really can hear termites attacking your home and cheque
book if you’re unlucky enough to have
an infestation!
Don’t know which one would
be more useful to you? Both have
near-identical electronics, so you
could build one and make the microphone “sensor” detachable so
you could plug the other type in as
required. That would be handy!
Best of all, the project is easy to
build, low in cost and has a lot of
“wow” factor. You’ll amaze your family and friends – perhaps they’ll be a
little more careful when they’re talking
about you in future!!!
Oh yes, there’s another feature we
forgot to mention. This project can
also act as an RF “sniffer” capable of
detecting close-by transmitting “bugs”
or other radio frequency sources in
the vicinity.
www.siliconchip.com.au
You could even use it to listen in
to a neighbour’s CB or amateur radio
transmissions (of course, it won’t get
the other side of the conversation). If
you attach it to an outside aerial, you’ll
probably find every local radio station
coming in at once!
So the Sooper Snooper is one versatile little project.
The electronics
The circuit is relatively straightforward, with an electret or dynamic
microphone preamplifier (Q1) feeding
into a “volume” pot (which, if you like,
acts as a sensitivity control).
The output from the pot drives an
LM386 amplifier IC which is capable
of driving a speaker or pair of headphones.
You will note that there is a pair
of Schottky diodes across the output
for the headphones – these act as an
automatic volume limiter to stop your
eardrums melting if someone yells
into the microphone when you’re
least expecting it (Schottky diodes are
used because of their speed and low
forward voltage).
The unit is powered by a 9V battery
(although it can handle up to 15V)
and has a regulated supply for the
transistor preamp via the 5.6V zener
diode.
Looking back to the input for a
moment, there is an RF pickup (ie an
antenna) which drives a voltage-doubling rectifier/detector – the output of
which can be directed to the preamp
via a link.
If you never plan to use the circuit
as an RF sniffer, L1 and L2, D1 and D2,
C1 and C2 and R12 could all be left
out as they would have no function.
Two types of microphones can be
used in this project.
In the parabolic model, a tiny electret insert is used to avoid “aperture
blocking” of the dish. As you would
no doubt know, electret microphones
require a power source and in this
circuit, power is derived from the 5.6V
supply rail via a voltage divider and
smoothing capacitor.
For the direct-pickup model, a
dynamic microphone insert is used.
As these require no power source,
the feed resistor (4.7kΩ) is left out. In
this case, the adjacent 1µF capacitor
must be reversed in polarity. The associated 1.5kΩ and 100µF capacitor
have no function in this case and
could be left out but its probably just
as easy to leave them in, just in case
September 2001 71
This circuit could also be used as a general purpose microphone
preamp withVR1 made a external volume control rather than
a preset pot. The two diodes across the headphone output are
necessary to counter big variations in input level.
you want to use an electret mic later.
In the kit from Oatley Electronics,
both types of microphone are supplied.
The dynamic mic is a high quality
Shure insert.
The 4.7kΩ resistor is also left out if
you wish to use the circuit as an RF
sniffer.
Construction
There are two parts to the construction – the electronics, which as we
mentioned is basically common to
both types of project, and the microphone pickups. We’ll start with the
electronics first.
With the obvious exception of the
microphone and headphones, all components are mounted on a single PC
board measuring 50 x 45 mm. The dimensions of the board are actually quite
critical because it must fit a particular
39k
B
.0033F
D2
470pF
+
_
72 Silicon Chip
IC1
LM386
-OR+ HEAD_ PHONES
D4
D3
22
+
VR1
50k
4.7
100F
+
1k
220
10k
100H
2700H
10k
D1
Here’s another idea: if you think
you might like to build both versions,
+
_ SPEAKER
1
Q1
+
RF
PICKUP
INPUT
Switch & socket option
1F
C
_
MIC
ZD1
680
22
1.5k
4.7k
3.9k
100F
+
A
+
SHIELDED
CABLE
trolytic capacitors, transistors and ICs
– are placed the right way around.
The trimpot can be soldered in last.
Now we turn our attention back to
the 4.7kΩ resistor and the link: these
depend on which version you are going
to build.
If you want to build the parabolic
Snooper with the electret mic, put the
4.7kΩ in. If you want to build the probe
Snooper with the dynamic mic, leave
the 4.7kΩ out. The link is soldered between points A and B for either “audio”
Snooper or between points A and C for
the “RF” Snooper.
Finally, give the board a good checking over to make sure everything is right
and in the right place.
100F 100F
+
+
100F
+
TO 9V +
_
BATTERY
way into a small jiffy box, measuring
83 x 55 x 30 mm.
The board is not held in by screws;
rather it sits upside-down on the ridges
in the case, leaving enough room for the
on/off switch underneath and the 9V
battery alongside (the photos give an
idea of the arrangement). Screwing the
case lid on holds everything captive.
Start by assembling the PC board
but first inspect it for any defects –
bridges between or breaks in tracks,
undrilled holes, etc. Then solder in the
components, starting with the resistors
(with the exception of the 4.7kΩ), then
the capacitors, diodes, transistor and
finally the IC.
If you need to, check the resistors
with a digital multimeter and/or refer
to the colour code table – just to make
sure! And as always, make sure that
polarized components – diodes, elec-
1F
.015F
The PC board component overlay
and the same-size photograph
can be used as a quick reference
guide during assembly. The link
A-B should be changed to A-C for
RF pickup.
www.siliconchip.com.au
why not put a suitable socket on the
case with matching plugs on the two
microphone types (a 3.5mm phono
plug and socket would appear perfect).
Then, mount a second switch inside
the case connected between the 4.7kΩ
and point A. Switch the resistor “in”
when you want to use the parabolic
Snooper and “out” when you want to
use the probe Snooper.
The headphones
The headphones are standard hifi
(ie, low impedance) types. If you’re
using the Clarion ones from Oatley
Electronics (as photographed with the
kit), they attach to the PC board with
the colour coding shown. Note that
the wires in the cable are very fine and
they also need to have a tiny amount
of insulation stripped from their ends.
Incidentally, these headphones are
a real bargain at seventeen bucks a
pair. They are very comfy and have an
inbuilt level control (on the lead). Actually, this level control is the reason
they’re so cheap: it has a tiny manufacturing defect which you can very
easily fix in about thirty seconds with
a screwdriver and a pair of pliers – a
sheet which comes with the ’phones
tells you how.
Once you’ve made the fix, you may
decide they’re too good for this kit and
use them for your hifi system!
Of course, any other low impedance
’phones or earpieces should work
perfectly if you happen to have some
on hand. The colour coding of the
cabling might be different, of course
– you will have to determine which is
which yourself. Then again, it doesn’t
really matter if you get the left and
right channels mixed up – this is a
mono output!
The microphone(s)
As we mentioned before there are
two types of microphones usable in
this project, depending on whether
you want to build the parabolic (ie,
long range) model or the direct pickup model.
The Parabola
Before we describe how we made
the parabolic Snooper, a word of
warning. The parabolic dishes from
Oatley are disposals types which were
intended for a small solar cooker. They
do this by concentrating the sun’s
rays at the focal point – and it’s easily
hot enough to set fire to paper/boil
www.siliconchip.com.au
The parabolic version electronics “folded out” of their mounting box. The two
large screws in the bottom of the box hold the handle onto the box.
water/cook food/damage your eyes/ insert (ie, the “works” from a microcook you!
phone) mounted somewhere near the
parabola’s focal point.
If you take the parabolic dish
outside without having painted it
When we say “somewhere near”
a matte grey (as shown in our pho- we mean it: you don’t have to be all
tos) BE CAREFUL.
While your head
will block most
of the sun’s rays,
there could still be
enough to do you
serious mischief!
So before you do
anything, spray
the aluminium para-bolic dish with
matte grey paint.
OK, back to the
Snooper electronics. Sound reflected back from the
And this is what the box looks like complete. The PC
parabola is picked
board is held in place on the integral mounting lugs on
up by a tiny electhe side walls of the box. There’s just enough room for
tret microphone
the 9V battery. It’s tight, but it all fits!
September 2001 73
that accurate for the unit to
work very well indeed. Of
course, theory suggests
it will work best when
the mic is mounted
right at the focal
point.
In prac-
tice, we found out that you can be
even a few centimetres away with
little or no apparent degradation of
performance.
We mounted the microphone insert
on a 150mm length of that highly
specialized construction material we
often use called “cotanger wire”. This
won’t be supplied in the kit but if you
have any difficulty finding a piece, just
look in your wardrobe…
We bent the wire into a “J” shape
with the mic insert mounted at the
bottom end of the “J”. It’s not actually
secured to the wire; rather, some
heatshrink tubing holds it (and
its fine shielded cable) onto
the wire.
See the photo and
you’ll see the arrangement. (Heatshrink tubing is not supplied in the
Oatley kit). Note that the electret mic
is polarised: it must be wired as shown
or it won’t reward you with any sound!
At the top of the “J” we bent the
wire over 90° with a pair of pliers then
fashioned a little loop in it. The screw
which holds the reflector to its handle
also passes through this loop to hold
the J-wire in position. Again, see the
photographs.
The microphone on its J-wire can be
moved around to find the best operating position but, as we mentioned,
there is plenty of latitude for error. In
fact, if you look at our photographs you
may note that our mic is anything but
on-axis. But it works very well!
We drilled a just-large-enough
(about 2mm) hole through the parabola for the shielded microphone cable to pass. This then was secured
to the handle and went from there
into the electronics box.
If we were feeling real adventurous
we might have drilled a small hole
right through the length of the handle so that the cable was completely
hidden. But we weren’t! (And also we
didn’t have any really long drills
available).
Before moving onto the
second type of Snooper,
we should briefly describe that handle.
It is simply a 35 x
18mm (dressed)
The painted parabolic dish
is secured to the handle
by a single long bolt &
nut, which also holds the
microphone mounting wire
in place. This is shown in
close-up in the photo at
right. The case (dotted)
attaches to the bottom of
the handle as shown in
other photographs.
74 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
Parts List – Sooper Snooper
1 9V battery
1 9V battery snap
1 SPST mini rocker switch
1 PC board, 30 x 55mm
1 case, 83 x 55 x 30mm (Altronics H-0105 or similar)
1 pair hifi headphones
Looking at the Parabolic Sooper
Snooper from the rear, showing how
the dish is connected to the handle;
the handle’s connected to the case;
the kneebone’s connected to de thighbone . . .
Parabolic pickup:
1 electret microphone insert
1 Parabolic reflector, painted matte colour (grey)
1 60cm length stiff wire (eg, coathanger)
1 60mm M3 nut and bolt
2 M3 washers
1 wooden handle, approx 170mm long x 30mm wide x 18mm thick – see
diagrams and text
1 20mm length 12mm heatshrink tubing
1 60mm length 3mm heatshrink tubing
1 100mm length shielded cable (for microphone)
Scraps of thin hookup wire (for switch connection, etc)
Direct pickup:
1 dynamic microphone insert
1 steel rod, 2mm diameter, with hard plastic handle, length around 220mm
1 2m length of shielded cable (for microphone)
Araldite or similar glue.
Semiconductors
1 LM386 audio amplifier (IC1)
1 BC549 NPN transistor (Q1)
2 1N60 germanium diodes (D1, D2)
2 1N5817 Schottky diodes (D3, D4)
1 5.6V Zener diode (ZD1)
Capacitors
5 100µF 25VW PC mounting electrolytic
2 1µF 25VW PC mounting electrolytic
1 .015µF polyester or ceramic
1 .0033µF polyester or ceramic
1 470pF ceramic
The same photo taken straight-on:
between the two pics you should get a
pretty good idea of how it goes
together!
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 39kΩ 2 10kΩ 1 4.7kΩ 1 3.9kΩ 1 1.5kΩ 1 1kΩ
1 680Ω 1 220Ω 2 22Ω 1 4.7Ω
1 50kΩ preset pot, PC mounting
Resistor Colour Codes
No.
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
1
www.siliconchip.com.au
Value
39kΩ
10kΩ
4.7kΩ
3.9kΩ
1.5kΩ
1kΩ
680Ω
220Ω
22Ω
4.7Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
orange white orange brown
brown black orange brown
yellow purple red brown
orange white red brown
brown green red brown
brown black red brown
blue grey brown brown
red red brown brown
red red black brown
yellow purple gold brown
5-Band Code (1%)
orange white black red brown
brown black black red brown
yellow purble black brown brown
orange white black brown brown
brown green black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
blue grey black black brown
red red black black brown
red red black gold brown
yellow purple black silver brown
September 2001 75
Capacitor Codes
Value
IEC Code EIA Code
.015µF
153 15n
.0033µF 331 3n3
470pF 470
470p
The completed “probe” which is actually a dynamic microphone insert Araldited
to a long-bladed screwdriver.
a hard glue ensures maximum sound
transfer.
We also filed off the screwdriver head
to leave a flat “pickup”. This is perhaps
unnecessary but it also stops anyone
trying to use this as a screwdriver!
Once the Araldite dried, we simply
soldered the shielded mic lead to the
appropriate points on the mic insert –
and that basically finishes the second
type of Snooper. Remember, though,
that as this is a dynamic microphone
that resistor we talked about before
(4.7kΩ) should be left out.
Here’s the back end of the probe
showing how the screwdriver handle
was ground flat then glued to the mic
insert . . .
. . . and from the opposite side, with
the connections to the shielded cable
which goes off to the preamp.
In use
softwood, about 175mm long, cut as
shown in our drawing. Both ends are
cut at an angle; one end has a further
cut to allow mounting of the parabola
via a single long bolt and nut passing
through an appropriately drilledhole.
Both handle and parabola were
given a coat of grey spray paint before
final assembly.
transfer vibrations to the microphone
without too much attenuation.
Our pick-up is actually a long,
thin-bladed screwdriver with a hard
plastic handle.
That part is important – a soft plastic
would not transmit the sound vibrations as well as a hard plastic. The
handle helps to stop the fingers absorbing or attenuating the sound vibrations
picked up by the steel blade.
We filed the back of the handle truly
flat, then simply glued the microphone
insert to that flat with Araldite. Again,
Direct pick-up model
This is considerably simpler than
the previous type. All that is required
is some form of pick-up which will
Where d’ya geddit?
This kit was designed by Oatley Electronics who hold the copyright on the
design and the PC board.
Oatley Electronics have available the following kits and options:
Electronics kit: contains the PC board, all on-board components,
battery snap and both electret and Shure dynamic mic inserts........................$22.00
Box kit: contains the jiffy box and on/off switch................................................$5.00
Parabola: mill finish aluminium parabolic dish................................................$25.00
Headphones: high quality Clarion PRO-97V stereo headphones (note – small
manufacturing defect in volume control, easily fixed,
repair instructions included)............................................................................$17.00
Screwdriver: long screwdriver with solid plastic handle....................................$1.00
Not supplied: 9V battery, cotanger wire, heatshrink, wood handle
Contact: Oatley Electronics, PO Box 89, Oatley NSW 2223
Phone (02) 9584 3563, Fax (02) 9584 3561
email sales<at>oatleyelectronics.com www.oatleyelectronics.com
76 Silicon Chip
If your soldering is up to scratch, you
should be able to put the headphones
on your head, turn the unit on – and
listen. You might have to adjust VR1,
the “volume” control (which in this
case acts more like a sensitivity control)
to get the level you want. But that’s
just about it.
If it doesn’t work, once again check
your soldering and component placement. Check that you have indeed
included R4 if you made the electret
version (conversely, you left it out for
the dynamic version).
Otherwise, measure a few voltages:
the supply, of course and 5.6V across
ZD1. Check that Q1 is operating by
measuring the voltage between base
and emitter – it should be about 0.6V.
Finally, check that there is 9V between
pins 6 and 4 of IC1.
If all these are OK, perhaps it’s the
’phones that are giving you curry.
Unsolder them and briefly connect a
1.5V AA cell across the leads when
you’re not wearing them. A loud “click”
means they’re probably working
fine.
Finally, with the ’phones back in
place and VR1 set to maximum (ie,
clockwise), do the “blurt” test: moisten
your finger just a tad and apply it to the
link connected to point “A”. If you get a
“blurt” from the headphones, you know
the amplifier is OK – all it can be is the
connections to the microphone insert.
Did you forget the link from point A
SC
to point B?
www.siliconchip.com.au
Using Linux To
Share An Internet
Connection; Pt.4
By default, Linux is a powerful operating system that automatically
configures many services (eg, a web server) straight out of the box.
In this final article in our gateway series, we show you how to
improve security by shutting down any services that you don’t need
and restricting access to those you do need.
By GREG SWAIN
You can’t be too careful about security when connected
to the Internet, especially if you have a network behind
your Linux box. Security must be built into the gateway
from the beginning, otherwise you could end up being
“cracked”.
Don’t think that you’re safe just because you are using a
dial-up connection. It’s quite possible for someone to find
you and telnet their way into an unprotected machine in
a matter of minutes.
As well as having an effective firewall, there are a couple of other things you can do to improve security. This
involves shutting down any services that you don’t need
and restricting access to any that you do need.
Turning off services
The easiest way to deny access to a service is to turn
it off. The first thing you need to do is take a look at
the /etc/inetd.conf file (this is now /etc/xinetd.conf in
later distributions such as Red Hat 7.0). This file lists
all the Internet services started by the inetd Internet su-
per-server daemon. You can disable any service listed in
inetd.conf by placing a “#” (comment) at the start of the
line.
For example, to disable the ftp and telnet services, edit
the lines to look like this:
# ftp stream tcp nowait root /usr/sbin/tcpd in.ftpd -l -a
# telnet stream tcp nowait root /usr/sbin/tcpd in.telnetd
Note that this doesn’t stop you from ftping or telneting out from your machine. Instead, it stops your
Linux box from behaving as an ftp and telnet server,
so that these services are no longer potential pathways
into your machines. The telnet service is a real risk
– make sure that you don’t leave this running on an
unprotected system.
In fact, if you don’t need to run any Internet services,
you can quite safely comment out everything in /etc/
inetd.conf. This will still allow you to access email and
Tip 1: Logging Out & Logging In
You don’t have to reboot Linux to log out as root and
log back in as a user. All you have to do is quit Xwindows
(click K -> Logout in KDE), type logout at the terminal
prompt (or hit Ctrl-D) and then log back on using your
user name and password. You can then restart KDE or
Gnome by issuing the command startx.
The procedure is identical for logging out as a user and
logging back on as root.
Fig.1 (left): you can turn off the
services listed in /etc/inetd.conf
by placing a “#” (ie, a comment)
at the start of each line. Turn off
all services that aren’t required.
www.siliconchip.com.au
September 2001 77
Fig.2: distributions that use xinetd.conf store
a configuration file for each service in the
/etc/xinetd.d folder. A service is disabled by
opening its configuration file and changing
the disable = no line to disable = yes.
news, do all your usual web browsing and transfer ftp
files.
Once you’ve commented out the services you don’t need,
you have to restart the inetd daemon with this command:
killall -HUP inetd
Recent Linux distributions that use /etc/xinetd.conf store
one configuration file for each service in the /etc/xinetd.d
folder. In that case, you disable a service by opening its
configuration file and changing the disable = no line to
disable = yes (Fig.2). You will need to do this for each
service you want disabled.
When you’ve finished editing these files, issue the
command /sbin/service xinetd restart to pick up the
changes.
Note that many services will already be disabled by
default. Note too that not all network services are started
through inetd or xinetd. Instead, some are started when
the system boots.
An easy way to disable (or re-enable) services is to
use the ntsysv utility that’s included in both Red Hat
Linux and Mandrake Linux. Issuing the command ntsysv
brings up the tool as shown in Fig.3 below. You use the tab
and arrow keys to move around, the spacebar to select or
deselect a service and the F1 key to obtain a description
of the selected service.
Note that the ntsysv command on its own only configures your current run level. If you want to configure other
run levels, then you need to include the level switch. For
example, ntsysv --level 3456 lets you configure services
for run levels 3, 4, 5 & 6.
Don’t turn off all the services listed by the ntsysv
utility, as this could cause problems. Only turn off those
network features that you don’t need. As a rule, you can
turn off telnet, wu-ftp & tftp (both FTP servers), httpd (the
Apache web server) and finger (this allows remote client
to identify local users).
If you don’t need any of the Internet super services
started by inetd or xinetd, you can disable these as well.
That simple step will stop all the services launched
by inetd or xinetd in one swoop (after restarting,
that is).
Restricting access to services
Any services that are left running in /etc/inetd.conf
can be secured by “TCP wrappers”. For example, you
might want to use your Linux box as a local web or email
server.
The idea here is to restrict access to services based
on the host’s IP address. There are two files to edit here:
/etc/hosts.deny and /etc/hosts.allow.
First, open up the /etc/hosts.deny file and add
the following rule to the end of the commented
section:
# /etc/hosts.deny
ALL: ALL
This tells the “TCP wrappers” to deny connections to all services from all hosts. It will
also stop local machines on your network from
accessing any wanted services, so we need to
weaken the rules by adding some exceptions to
/etc/hosts.allow. Open this file and add these
lines:
# /etc/hosts.allow
ALL: 127.0.0.1
ALL: 192.168.0.
This tells the “TCP wrappers” to allow connections to the services in /etc/inetd.conf from
Fig.3: the ntsysv utility makes it easy to disable individual services.
the local machine (127.0.0.1) and from the
You can also disable multiple services by turning off inetd or xinetd.
78 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
Check These Websites For Firewall Tools & Linux Security
Security really is a big subject and we’ve only covered
the basics in this series. If you want to find out more, point
your web browser to: http://www.linuxfirewall.org
Included on this website are a number of firewall tools
that you can use to create your own ipchain rules. In particular, take a look at PMFirewall and the Firewall Design
Tool. These are both script files that ask you a series of
questions and then create firewall rules based on your
answers.
Other tools worth looking at are Kfirewall 0.4.2 (which is
a GUI front end for ipchains) and Gnome-Lokkit 0.43.
Another good Linux security website is located at:
http://www.linux-firewall-tools.com/linux Be sure to
check the Firewall & LAN Security FAQ on this site.
An excellent text on Linux security and other topics is
Securing & Optimizing Linux: RedHat Edition. This publication includes an ipchains firewall and is available for free
download from: www.linuxdoc.org/LDP/solrhe
The Linux Network Administrators Guide, 2nd Edition
is another excellent reference on security and firewalls
(both ipchains and iptables). You can download it from:
www.ibiblio.org/pub/Linux/docs/linux-doc-project/nag2
What about iptables?
Recent distributions of Linux (eg, RedHat 7.0 and later)
include a replacement for ipchains called iptables – although ipchains is still included and you can still run the
ipchains firewall. The very latest releases, however, don’t
have ipchains compiled into the kernel but generally include
it as a loadable module. In that case, try adding the following lines at the very beginning of the rc.firewall script (we
haven’t tested this, by the way):
# Load ipchains module
/sbin/modprobe ipchains
Alternatively, you could use an iptables firewall script. The
following two websites list iptables firewalls:
www.spodzone.org.uk/packages/secure/iptables.sh
www.amber.co.uk/iptablesrc
The Linux Network Administrators Guide, 2nd Edition
also includes an iptables firewall.
Don’t Take Security For Granted
For the home user, running the simple ipchains firewall from the
June issue and turning off all external services makes for a fairly
secure system. Just keep an eye on the log files for any untoward
activity and you should be OK.
That said, we don’t offer any guarantees – the net is not a safe
place! If security is vital to your organisation, be sure to seek expert
professional advice when it comes to setting up a firewall. Don’t
just rely on the advice given in our articles.
It’s also vital that you install the latest updates and security fixes,
to prevent a hacker from taking advantage of a known security
hole. You can get these from your distribution’s website (eg, www.
redhat.com) or by visiting www.securityfocus.com
Fig.4 (left): chkconfig --list lets you quickly check
which services are running.
Fig.5 (below): the netstat utility shows which
services are listening for TCP packets.
local network (192.168.0.). And yes, you must
include the full stop at the end of the second
line.
Finding out what’s running?
You can quickly find out what services are running using the command chkconfig --list. This begins by listing
all the system services and their run levels, then lists the
services managed by xinetd (see Fig.4).
You can also use chkconfig to turn a service off. For
example, chkconfig --level 345 xinetd off turns xinetd
off at run levels 3, 4 and 5. You will have to reboot for the
change to take effect.
Another handy tool is the netstat utility. This is used to
www.siliconchip.com.au
show which services are listening for TCP packets. Typing
netstat -ant, for example, gives a response as shown in
Fig.5. In this case, ports 6000, 139, 515, 22, etc are listening
and you can find out which services these correspond to
by looking in /etc/services.
Finally, you should check out the “Firewall And
Proxy Server Howto”, along with these two documents: (1) “Controlling Access To Services” from www.
polarhome.com/service/manual/RedHat/s1-sysadmin-access; and (2) “Securing Your Net Connection” from www.
SC
noether.freeserve.co.uk/secure
September 2001 79
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.altronics.com.au
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09-01
VINTAGE RADIO
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
Healing R401E/S401E Mantel Radio
A. G. Healing of Melbourne made radios and
TV sets for many years. They varied from quite
simple units to reasonably elaborate ones. They
never appeared to strive for the top end of the
market, being content to stick with good, middle
of the market equipment.
The 401E 4-valver is a basic little
mantel receiver de
signed for areas
where signals are reasonably strong.
It is quite an attractive little unit in a
brown Bakelite case, with the speaker
grille on the left and the dial on the
right. The dial has “Golden Voice” in
its centre which was part of Healing’s
trademark. It has two controls, volume
and tuning. It has no on/off switch,
the wall switch being required to do
the job.
It could be considered a miniature
mantel receiver, although some sets
of the era (1948) were smaller. The
above-chassis view is filled with
components, except for the power
transformer and rectifier valve which
are recessed below the chassis. It
appears that provision was made to
have a card type cover for the back,
for other sets using this cabinet. This
model apparently didn’t have a back,
as the spots where the cover would
The simple design of this Healing set extended to the gold-painted dial drum
with the pointer printed directly onto it.
84 Silicon Chip
have attached to the cabinet had never
been drilled to take securing screws.
Consequently, the set is easily removed from its cabinet, by undoing
two screws along the bottom edge of
the chassis at the back and taking the
two knobs off. The set is then slid out
of the cabinet but like many small radios, the dial scale and speaker remain
in the cabinet. This makes it awkward
so I lengthened the speaker leads, so
that I could more easily service the set
without having to remove the speaker
from the cabinet.
The dial light is also attached to
the cabinet via a slip-in socket but it
is easily removed. For a long life, the
dial light runs from a 4.5V tap on the
6.3V filament winding of the power
transformer. One interesting little
point – there is a spigot protruding
from the inside of the front of the
cabinet that acts as a locating pin for
the chassis. It stops the chassis from
moving around inside the cabinet,
seeing as it is only held in place by
two screws at the back.
The dial drive consists of a drum
driven from a rubber grommet drive
via dial cord. The grommet is a tight
fit over the brass tuning shaft. The
dial drum is a gold colour and there
is a straight black line painted across
it to act as the “pointer”. This is elegantly simple and works very effectively.
The two operational controls are
fitted the opposite way to normal,
with the tuning control on the left and
the volume control on the right. They
could easily be swapped around, and
maybe some sets were built with the
controls arranged in the conventional
manner.
I am not a fan of deep chassis
construction such as this example.
Relatively speaking, it is not too deep
at 55mm but being a narrow chassis,
www.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: simplicity is the keynote of this 4-valve superhet made by A. G. Healing. Not shown on this circuit is the filter
choke which has its frame connected to the HT rail.
care is needed in accessing some
points. Some manufacturers seemed
to believe that a deep chassis gave
them the right to put layer upon layer
of components in, just to keep things
nice and compact. Pity the poor person
who had to service the sets.
Hot filter choke
The filter choke is hidden underneath the chassis and just as well. It is
mounted on an insulated fibre board
and its frame is connected to the high
tension (HT) line. This was done to
minimise the voltage between the
winding and the frame. This technique
was used to help prevent electrolysis
eating through the winding at some
spot. Speaker transformers of this
era were quite prone to the primary
winding going open circuit and were
often mounted so that the transformer
frame was at HT too. However, this is
the first time I’ve seen it used with a
filter choke. The circuit shown has a
dropping resistor instead of a choke,
so it would appear that various modifications were done to the model
throughout its production life.
Servicing the 401E
Being such a simple receiver, it is
not hard to get it up and running. Most
www.siliconchip.com.au
paper capacitors were replaced as they
were most likely leaky. The only ones
I considered essential to replace were
C3, C11 and C13. However, the circuit is remarkably tolerant of slightly
leaky capacitors in all locations. This
cannot be said of many other receivers. All resistors bar one were within
tolerance. The electrolytic capacitors
were changed and a new 3-core power
cord was fitted and a clamp attached
to secure it in place.
Knotting the power cable to prevent
it being pulled out of the chassis is
not an approved method these days.
So if you do replace a mains cable,
clamp it to the chassis with a metal or
plastic clamp; it keeps the authorities
happier.
Having replaced the components
most likely to give trouble (paper capacitors in particular), a resistor and
the mains cord to the set, it was time
to give it a go. I went through my usual
Hiding under the chassis, adjacent to the 4.7µF 500VW capacitor, is the filter
choke with its frame tied to the HT. This could give a nasty shock to the
unsuspecting repairer.
September 2001 85
These rear views of the set show how the power transformer is recessed right
into the deep chassis.
procedure of checking for any shorts
in the power transformer, across the
high tension line to earth and that
the speaker transformer had continuity in the primary winding. All was
well.
Power was connected and the set
warmed up but its performance was
not good. I do have a few replacement
valves and by the nature of the problem and measurement of the cathode
to earth voltage on the 6V6GT, it was
obvious all was not well. The vol
tage was not the designed 12V, so a
replacement was tried. The set then
86 Silicon Chip
sounded a lot healthier. Other than
the alignment nothing else needed attention.
Alignment
The set is quite easily aligned. As the
circuit has no automatic gain control
(AGC), all adjustments can be done for
maximum volume out of the speaker,
provided you have a signal generator.
If you have no signal generator, the
best method is to connect a digital
multimeter (DMM), set to a low voltage DC range, across R6 the detector
load. A normal analog (moving coil)
multimeter will unfortunately load
the circuit too much and the readings
are not likely to deflect the pointer
sufficiently up the scale.
Connect a reasonable aerial to the
set. Tune to a strong radio station
and with a small screwdriver, adjust
the primary and secondary windings
of the IF transformers L3 and L4 for
maximum reading on the meter. The
volume control setting will affect the
readings on the meter. You may not
have the IF tuned to 455kHz but it
should be close unless someone has
been twiddling the adjustments. This
is the easy part of the job.
The alignment of the oscillator and
aerial circuits is a little more complex.
Place the chassis back into the cabinet
and make sure that when the gang is
closed, the black pointer line lines
up square through the Healing name.
If it doesn’t, adjust the drum on the
gang spindle until it does. With the
set in the cabinet, tune to a strong
station that you know around 600kHz.
If you are fortunate, the station will
come in on the appropriate station
marker on the dial. If not, put the dial
on the station mark on the dial and
withdraw the chassis from the cabinet.
Now adjust C7 until the station coincides with the dial marking. All being
well, you’ll be able to get the station
tuned in accurately. Then adjust the
core in L1 for maximum reading on
the meter.
The next step is to tune to a station
around 1500kHz that you can easily
recognise and once again, having
identified the station, turn the dial
until the correct station identification
has the dial pointer behind it. Note: a
few years ago, some stations changed
their frequencies and the markings
on the dial may not be anywhere near
where they were in times gone by. For
example, 3NE moved from 1600kHz to
1566kHz, so older dial scales are no
longer accurate.
Leave the dial pointer coinciding
with the station dial marking. Adjust
C4 to hear the station, then adjust
C1 for maximum volume and meter
reading.
The adjustments of the aerial and
oscillator circuits interact with one
another from one end of the dial to
the other. Hence it will be necessary
to go over the adjustments a couple of
times to get the alignment as close as is
practical. Having to slide the chassis in
www.siliconchip.com.au
Photo Gallery: Astor OZ “Mickey Mouse”
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Manufactured by Radio Corporation Pty Ltd in 1934, the Astor Model OZ
“Mickey Mouse” was housed in an attractive veneered wooden cabinet
and was the first of a long series of small sets to carry the “Mickey Mouse”
and, later, “Mickey” name. The circuit was a straight 5-valve superheter
odyne with an IF (intermediate frequency) of 455kHz and included the
following valves: 6A7 frequency changer; 6D6 IF amplifier; 6B7 detector,
AVC rectifier and audio amplifier; 43 audio output stage; and 25Z5
rectifier. The set was fitted with a 5-inch electrodynamic loudspeaker. A
feature of this unit is its low HT voltage – just 130V – hence the choice of a
type 43 output valve. This gave cooler running in the small cabinet.
Photo Gallery: Astor “Mickey Grand”
ELECTRONIC
VALVE & TUBE
COMPANY
PO Box 487 Drysdale, Victoria 3222.
Tel: (03) 5257 2297; Fax: (03) 5257 1773
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email: evatco<at>mira.net
Premises at: 76 Bluff Road,
St Leonards, Vic 3223
been completely maladjusted, it is
unlikely that this simple method will
achieve the results necessary to get
optimum performance out of the set.
In fact, if the alignment is way off,
you may not be able to hear any signals
from the set. This can be compounded
if there are defective valves in the set
too.
How does it operate
Manufactured by Radio Corporation Pty Ltd in 1935, the Astor Model
MZ “Mickey Grand” was housed in an attractive mini-console cabinet
measuring just 380mm high. It used the same basic 5-valve superhet
erodyne chassis as the “Mickey Mouse” but was fitted with a larger
loudspeaker (6-inch vs. 5-inch). As with the “Mickey Mouse”, this set also
operated with an IF of 455kHz and a HT voltage of just 130V.
and out of the cabinet to do this job is
a real drag, but there is no alternative
when the dial scale is attached to the
cabinet.
Once this procedure has been comwww.siliconchip.com.au
pleted, it is desirable to seal the cores
and trimmer screws with some plastic
cement or nail polish to stop them
shifting out of adjustment.
If the tuned circuit adjustments have
The performance of small 4-valve
radios is never expected to be marvellous. However, many do surprise
me and the performance of this little
set is very good, rivalling a number of
5-valve sets. Obviously, Healing got
the design of their coils and IF transformers close to optimum, to obtain
the performance it does have.
There is no AGC so it is necessary
to adjust the volume control as you
tune across the band, as strong stations
will blast you and weak ones require
the volume control to be advanced
for reasonable volume. A set like this
would not be good in areas where radio
signals fade up and down due to this
lack of AGC. However, it is designed
for strong signal areas so this is prob
SC
ably not a great deficiency.
September 2001 87
w
So you have spent countless hours developing a project and now you would
like to see it published for all the world to see. Does SILICON CHIP accept
articles for publication? Yes, we do. Here are some general guidelines to
anyone contemplating writing articles for SILICON CHIP.
W
ant to write for SILICON
CHIP? You do? Great. Before
you start, let's give you some
general guidelines which will make your
job easier and will greatly increase the
chances that the article will be accepted
for publication.
Before you start on that great article concept, please contact us to find out whether it
is of interest to the readers. We would hate
it if you had put in an enormous amount of
work to produce an article only to find that
we reject it because it is not of sufficient
interest to the readers.
There may be other reasons for rejection,
of course: we might have a similar article
ready or almost ready for publication – or
we might have already given another person the go-ahead for a similar idea.
When you contact us, we will ask you
for the general concept. If it is a project, we
will want to see a circuit diagram and a brief
synopsis on what it does, how it works and
how much it might cost. We'd also need
to know that any specialised components
you have used will be available for other
readers to obtain.
Perhaps you would like to submit a
feature article. Again, we would like a
synopsis; ie, a brief outline of the article.
You can contact us by phone or mail but if
you can do it by email, please do. Contact
us at silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
When emailing, please do NOT attach
documents in HTML format. If you wrote
your synopsis in Word or another text
editor, leave it that way. Opening HTML
documents simply takes extra time.
What about money? Yes, we do pay for
published articles but there are conditions
which we will spell out when you contact
us. We generally do not commission articles. We always edit submitted articles and
often end up doing substantial re-writes.
The amount we have to do affects the
overall payment.
Submitting the article itself
These days, we like articles to be submitted as (preferably) Word documents or
.txt files on a Zip disk, CD-ROM or floppy
88 Silicon Chip
disk, formatted for PCs. You can also email
articles to us. If you do email us an article,
please do it as a text file or as an attached
Word file. Any Word attachments you send
to us should be virus checked beforehand.
Speaking of viruses, we get a lot of them
sent to us in various ways. If you need to
send .exe files or zip files please make
sure that you run them through the latest
virus software such as Norton Anti-Virus.
Contributors get very embarrassed when
we subsequently inform them that they
have a virus.
As a general policy we, like most companies these days, immediately delete any
email that comes in with an attached .exe
file unless we know (and trust!) the source.
By the way, we often find viruses in submitted material but the contributor swears
on a stack of Bibles that they virus check
everything. It's only after a bit of quizzing
that we find they haven't updated their
virus definitions or signatures for months,
perhaps years. Please update regularly!
Article format
Please don't make your article look
pretty. We want it in plain, unadorned text.
These days, since so many people have
Microsoft Word or similar word processing software, there is a great temptation
for writers to use fancy fonts and formats,
dropped caps, italics, bullets, indented
paragraphs, text in various colours and so
on. Don't bother!
No matter how fancy your document
looks, all that effort in presentation will
be dumped because if we do publish it, it
will be formatted to suit the magazine. So
whether we like your article or not, we have
no choice but to dump your formatting.
We are only interested in your basic text.
For the same reasons, please do not present your article as a PDF file, a Powerpoint
presentation or as files from any desktop
package such as Pagemaker, Quark Express,
Publisher, etc. We only have to extract the
text back out again which once again will
lose all your fancy formatting.
Fancy formatting also makes your article
much harder to edit and you want to make
our job easy, don't you?
OK, maybe you need to include some
tables in your article. In that case, we
will need the table format (eg, in Word)
but please don't send them as Excel or
database files.
All of that sounds like a lot of negatives
but we really need to keep the whole
process simple and that means text files or
Word document files.
By the way, regardless of which word
processor program you use, they all have
a facility for outputting your article as a .txt
file (also known as ASCII or plain text). Do
not just change the file extension and hope
for the best – the chances are that we won't
be able to read it.
That is one really good aspect of email. If
you send us an article inserted as a text file,
you will be able to read it on the screen,
before you click on the “send” button.
Still on word processors: if you have Microsoft Word it is a good idea to make full
use of its grammar and spell-checking capabilities. Make sure you have the English
dictionary loaded, not the American. Also,
it is a good idea to use Word's readability
statistics after you have run a spell check.
If you want to make your article as readable as possible, keep the sentences and
paragraphs reasonably short. Try to make
sentences active, not passive and not too
wordy. If the Word “Flesch-Reading Ease”
score is below 40 (out of 100), you know
you have a problem.
Photographs and graphics
As you can see from most of the articles
in SILICON CHIP, we generally like to include plenty of photos and diagrams. So
what to do?
While some people do go to the trouble
of taking photos of their projects, they are
rarely good enough for publication. We
much prefer to take our own photos and for
that reason (and also to check the operation
of your project) we generally prefer to have
the prototype submitted to us.
We do return prototypes, whether or not
the article is published.
We know there are times when it may be
www.siliconchip.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
impractical or impossible to send us your
project and therefore you wish to take your
own photos.
We work in 35mm format only and prefer
colour transparencies (ie, so-called colour
slides). The sharper they are, the better. It
does not matter to us if the slide is mounted
or unmounted (but unmounted cost you less
to have processed); if unmounted, please
do not cut slides into individual frames.
Most “neg files” hold a strip of 6 negatives
or transparencies – that's fine for us.
By the way, send us all the frames you
shoot – we like to choose the best exposures,
best focus and best framing, ourselves.
We don't want 2-1/4-inch square or
larger format transparencies, as we then
have to out-source the scanning which can
delay publication.
If you only have colour prints, send us
the colour negatives as well. We scan the
latter as they have far more detail, contrast
and colour than any colour print.
If you want to take your own photos,
you really need a single-lens reflex 35mm
camera with separate control over aperture,
exposure time and focus. And while modern, automatic cameras might be great for
happy-snaps of your family on holidays,
they are really not suitable for magazine
photography because you have no control
over aperture and depth of field.
If you are taking photos of your project,
vintage radio or whatever, don't do it on
your front lawn, grubby garage floor or
against a brick wall. Try to use a neutral
background which contrasts with the object you are photographing. You can use
a plain or light pastel bedsheet, but make
sure it is spotless and has been carefully
ironed to take out the creases – remember
that the camera will ruthlessly record any
blemishes. Remember also that any shiny
surfaces on the object being photographed
will pick up the background (foreground)
colour and can give unwanted colour casts.
Speaking of unwanted colour casts, taking photos under fluorescent light will give
a greenish cast while incandescent lighting
will give a red cast. Direct sunlight will give
very strong shadows which can conceal
www.siliconchip.com.au
detail while indirect sunlight can give an
overall blue cast. Can't win, can you?
Well, you can, but it is best to be aware
of all the traps. The best light – by far – is
outdoors with a lightly overcast sky. Shadows will be minimised or even eliminated
and the light is virtually pure white. But
sometimes you don't get those overcast
days without the rain pouring down!
That is why it is preferable to send us the
project and we'll take the photos in our studio. If we mess up, we have to do it again!
Digital photos
Digital cameras have come a long way
in recent times but the majority are still not
good enough for magazine photography.
Some high-end digital cameras which
have a resolution of at least 3 megapixels
(4 is better) and which also allow you to
control aperture, exposure and focus can
produce good results (the cover photo on
the August 2001 issue of SILICON CHIP was
shot "natural light" with a 3.3 megapixel
digital camera outdoors on a cloudy day).
Photographs shot on a digital camera
need to be done at the camera's highest
possible resolution. Many digital cameras
store photos at 72dpi. This is OK if the image
size is very large but not if it is small. We can
manipulate the photo to some degree but
only if we have plenty of pixels to start with!
As a general rule, if a digital picture will
fit on a floppy disk, it will probably NOT
be good enough for reproducing in the
magazine. There are exceptions, especially
where photos are going to be printed very
small, but we find that an average compressed photo needs to be at least 2MB to
be of much use, particularly where we are
going to use it at a reasonable size.
If sending pictures by email or on a
ZIP disk or CD, you can store them in
any recognised format: .EPS, .BMP, .TIF,
.JPG, .ZIP, etc – but remember that JPG is
a lossy format and .JPG files should not be
resampled and restored. ZIPped EPS or TIF
are our preferred formats.
Scanned photos
We would very much prefer to scan any
By LEO SIMPSON
photos (or other artwork) ourselves. Scanning is an art, especially when it comes to
scanning for reproduction in a magazine.
Circuit diagrams
We need a clear and legible circuit
diagram. This can be a pencil sketch or
a computer printout but whatever format
you provide, we will always redraw it to
our standards.
If possible, when you draw your circuit
diagram stick to the conventions of inputs
on the left, outputs on the right, positive
supply rails at the top and negative/ground
rails at the bottom.
You will have noted that we do not use
“nF” in our circuit diagrams or descriptions
– please convert to µF or pF.
Those who are constantly working in
electronics understand nF, those who
dabble part time are confused by the extra
abbreviation.
For the same reason, we do not use
so-called “metricated” abbreviations for
resistors – eg, 1K5 meaning 1.5k or R33
for 33 ohms.
Printed circuit boards
If you have produced a PC board we
prefer that the pattern be drawn in Protel
or any version of PC board layout software
compatible with Protel: Easytrax, Autotrax,
or Circuit Maker.
If you design your PC board in another
package (eg Eagle, Ivex, etc), we will need
an EPS output of each layer – board layer
and component layer for a single-sided
board.
Designing PC boards is a separate topic
in itself and we hope to feature an article on
this subject shortly. However, as a general
rule, keep components more or less evenly
spaced on a 50-thou grid (typical) and parallel to the sides of the board; don't have
diagonal components – it doesn't look right.
Other points to consider:
(a) circuit components must be readily
available and reasonable in cost.
(b) 240VAC wiring must be safe and
SC
comply with all relevant codes.
September 2001 89
REFERENCE
GREAT BOOKS FOR
DIGITAL ELECTRONICS – A PRACTICAL
APPROACH
AUDIO POWER AMP DESIGN HANDBOOK
By Douglas Self. 2nd Edition Published
2000
By Richard Monk. Published 1998.
From one of the world’s most respected audio
authorities. The new 2nd edition is even more
comprehensive, includes sections on load-invariant
power amps, distortion residuals and diagnosis of
amplifier problems.368 pages in paperback.
85
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65
With this book you can learn the principles and practice of digital electronics without leaving your desk,
through the popular simulation applications, EASY-PC
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exploration of digital electronics, this is the book for
you. A free floppy disk is included, featuring limited
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Pulsar. 249 pages, in paperback.
VIDEO SCRAMBLING AND
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AUDIO ELECTRONICS
If you've ever wondered how they scramble
video on cable and satellite TV, this book tells
you! Encoding/decoding systems (analog and
digital systems), encryption, even schematics
and details of several encoder and decoder
circuits for experimentation. Intended for both
the hobbyist and the professional. 290 pages in
paperback.
This book is for anyone involved in designing,
adapting and using analog and digital audio
equipment. It covers tape recording, tuners and
radio receivers, preamplifiers, voltage amplifiers,
audio power amplifiers, compact disc technology and digital audio, test and measurement,
loudspeaker crossover systems, power supplies and noise reduction systems. 375 pages
in soft cover.
By John Linsley Hood. First published
1995. Second edition 1999.
TV by Graf & Sheets
75
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UNDERSTANDING TELEPHONE ELECTRONICS
By Stephen J. Bigelow.
Fourth edition published 2001
In keeping With the distinguished tradition of its
.. predecessors, Understanding Telephone Electronics,
FOURTH EDITION, covers conventional telephone
fundamentals, including both analog and modern
digital communication techniques. It provides basic
information on the functions of each telephone
system component, how electronic circuits general
dial tones, and how the latest digital transmission
techniques work.
59
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GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY
By Eugene Trundle. First published 1988.
Second edition 1996.
Eugene Trundle has written for many years in
Television magazine and his latest book is right
up to date on TV and video technology.
The book includes both theory and
practical servicing information and
is ideal for both students and
technicians.
382 pages, in paperback.
59
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90 Silicon Chip
99
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85
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EMC FOR PRODUCT DESIGNERS
By Tim Williams.
First published 1992. 3rd edition 2000.
Widely regarded as the standard text on EMC, this
book provides all the information necessary to meet
the requirements of the EMC Directive. It includes
chapters on standards, measurement techniques and
design principles, including layout and grounding,
digital and analog circuit design, filtering and shielding
and interference sources. The four appendices give a
design checklist and include useful tables, data and
formulae. 299 pages, in soft cover.
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES
By Austin Hughes. Second edition
published 1993 (reprinted 1997).
For non-specialist users – explores most of
the widely-used modern types of motor and
drive, including conventional and brushless
DC, induction, stepping, synchronous and
reluctance motors. 339 pages, in
paperback.
65
$
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ANALOG ELECTRONICS
NEW
NEW
NEW
NEW
NEW
NEW
by John Morton – 2nd edition 2001
By Ian Hickman. 2nd edition1999.
Essential reading for electronics designers
and students alike. It will answer nagging
questions about core analog theory and
design principles as well as offering practical design ideas. With concise design
implementations, with many of the circuits
taken from Ian Hickman’s magazine articles.
294 pages in soft cover.
85
$
$
TELEPHONE INSTALLATION HANDBOOK
by Steve Roberts
$
67
The definitive guide to home and small business installation - extensions, modems and
telephone systems. Provides a practical
guide to installation of telephone wiring.
Ranges from the single extension
socket to the Private Automatic Branch
Exchange (PABX), with the necessary
tools, test equipment and materials
needed by installers. 178 pages in soft
cover.
NEW
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Concise and practical guide to getting up and running
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VIDEO & CAMCORDER SERVICING AND TECHNOLOGY
by Steve Beeching (First published
2001)
Provides fully up-to-date coverage of
the whole range of current home
video equipment, analog and digital.
Information for repair and troubleshooting, with explanations of the
technology of video equipment.
318 pages in soft cover.
SILICON CHIP'S
COMPUTER OMNIBUS
First published 1999
SILICON CHIP'S
ELECTRONICS TEST BENCH
First published 2000
Hints, tips, Upgrades and Fixes for your
computer from articles published in
SILICON CHIP in recent years. Covers
DOS, Windows 3.1, 95, 98 and NT. A
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A collection of the “most asked for”
Test Equipment projects and features
from the pages of Australia’s “most
asked for” electronics magazine.
Exceptional value at $13.20 (Aust);
$A15.95 NZ (prices include p&p).
ANALOG ELECTRONICS..................................................$85.00
AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN...............................$85.00
AUDIO ELECTRONICS.....................................................$85.00
DIGITAL ELECTRONICS ..................................................$65.00
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES (2ND EDIT)................$65.00
EMC FOR PRODUCT DESIGNERS...................................$99.00
GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY............................$59.00
PIC - YOUR PERSONAL INTRODUCTORY COURSE........$43.00
TELEPHONE INSTALLATION HANDBOOK........................$67.00
UNDERSTANDING TELEPHONE ELECTRONICS.................$65.00
VIDEO & CAMCORDER SERVICING/TECHNOLOGY........$67.00
VIDEO SCRAMBLING/DESCRAMBLING..........................$75.00
SILICON CHIP TEST BENCH.................................... (see above)
SILICON CHIP COMPUTER OMNIBUS.................... (see above)
ORDER TOTAL: $......................
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INTERNET NEWSGROUP
Browsing web pages or search engines is one way to get information off the ’net. But asking a
question on an appropriate Newsgroup is often much better. Here are some of the terms you’ll
find used – and over the page, many of those mysterious abbreviations!
add (also join and subscribe)
The act of adding a newsgroup to your
personal list of newsgroups. These are the
groups that you see when you start up your
newsreader. See also: remove.
articles that show up – the other articles have
expired.)
Utility for automatic downloading and
processing of binary files, such as images,
sounds, or shareware.
“include everything under this”)
rec.collecting. (recreation groups about
collecting)
rec.collecting.sport.* recreation groups
about sports collecting)
rec.collecting.sport.football (a recreation
group about sports collecting, specifically
football)
Note that rec.collecting.sport.* would also
include sports collecting groups about baseball, hockey, etc.
There are also special, regional, and local
hierarchies that may not be available to all
people.
flame
kill file
FAQ
An individual message in a newsgroup. When
a person sends or posts an article and other
people reply to it, it forms a thread.
(Frequently Asked Questions) A list of
answers to Frequently Asked Questions and
other useful information for a newsgroup.
(When pronouncing, spell it out or rhyme
“FAQ” with “back.”) Always read a newsgroup’s FAQ before you post.
binary
FileGrabber
article (also post)
A type of newsgroup article that contains encoded binary information, such as a picture,
sound, or software application. There are
special groups for binary files, such as alt.
binaries.clip-art.
cancel, cancelbot
The act of retracting or removing one’s newsgroup article. Cancelbots are programs that
cancel spam posts.
charter
An angry newsgroup article or e-mail that
viciously attacks someone or something.
Usually written in the heat of the moment. Often starts a flamewar. Also, the act of sending
or posting a flame. A person who flames is a
“flamer.”
A file used by some newsreaders to reject
unwanted articles. A kill file will reject posts
containing words, authors, or subjects that
you don’t want to see. Also known as a
“bozo filter.” (Some newsgroup users signify
adding an article or thread to their killfile by
replying with the word “*plonk*.”)
An official description of what a newsgroup
is all about, whether it’s moderated, and what
kinds of topics the group will discuss. For
specific information about a newsgroup, read
the group’s FAQ.
flame bait
Provocative material in an article that,
intentionally or unintentionally, will make
people angry and invite flames in response.
See trolling.
list unread
cross-post
flame war
list all
follow up (also reply)
lurk
To copy an article to multiple newsgroups.
Cross-posting should be done sparingly, and
only when the post is relevant to the affected
newsgroups. Excessive cross-posting is a lot
like spam, and is nicknamed “velveeta.”
A argument or fight that takes place in
newsgroup articles or e-mail. Flamewars
involve lots of name-calling, nasty insults,
and “YELLING.”
delurk
To respond to an article by posting a response to the newsgroup. See quoting.
To post an article to a newsgroup for the first
time. (Just like when a radio-show caller says
“Long-time listener, first-time caller.”) See lurk.
Emoticon (also smiley)
Little faces made out of keyboard characters,
used to express smiles :-) winks ;-) surprise
:-0 and more. (If you don’t understand the
emoticon, put your left ear on your left shoulder and look again!)
expired article
Newsgroup articles are stored for a limited
time, after which they are deleted to make
room for new ones. An article that has been
deleted and no longer available has “expired.” (This is why the number of articles
listed doesn’t always match the number of
92 Silicon Chip
header
Part of a newsgroup article or e-mail message that contains information needed by the
computers that handled it. Hard-to-read but
informative,the message ID, date, and time.
hierarchy
The categories of newsgroups. The main categories are: comp. (computer topics), misc.
(miscellaneous), news. (newsgroup-related
stuff), rec. (recreation), sci. (science), soc.
(society), talk. (discussion), and alt. (alternative). Hierarchies are arranged so they get
more specific as you work your way down.
For example:
rec.* (recreation groups — the “*” means
A newsreader command that allows you to
see only the messages that you haven’t read
before in a given newsgroup.
A newsreader command that shows you all
the messages in a newsgroup, including
messages you have already read (as long as
they haven’t expired).
To read articles in a newsgroup without posting any of your own. Always lurk a
while before posting, to get a feel for the
newsgroup. A person who lurks is a “lurker.”
See delurk.
mark read (also catch up)
A newsreader command that marks all the
articles in a newsgroup as having been read.
Do this after you’ve read the interesting posts
in a newsgroup and only want to see new
posts the next time you visit.
MMF
An abbreviation for MAKE MONEY FAST;
also the generic name for any of the useless,
futile, and often illegal pyramid schemes that
promise to “make $5 into $50,000” or “GET
RICH QUICK” by spamming newsgroups.
www.siliconchip.com.au
COMMON TERMS
There’s a Newsgroup for every conceivable subject – and then some!
If you have Internet access, you almost certainly have Newsgroup
access. Ask your ISP if you don’t know how to subscribe.
They don’t work, they’re annoying and people
will flame you, so don’t ever do it. Posting
MMF-type posts is very bad netiquette.
moderated newsgroup
A newsgroup where all posts must be
approved before they can be seen by all. The
people who do the filtering are known as
moderators. Moderated newsgroups typically
have a lot of information, and very little spam
or garbage. See signal-to-noise ratio.
Netiquette
Network etiquette. Since there are no Internet
Police, a set of rules and guidelines on
acceptable behavior has developed organically. Netiquette includes things like not
spamming, learning to lurk before posting,
and more. Learn netiquette and you won’t get
flamed.
newbie
A beginner. All experts were newbies once.
cause it lets people know what you’re talking
about. Quoted material often is preceded by
“>” and looks like:
> This is an example of quoted material. Here
is some more
> quoted material, to let people know what
you are replying to.
This would be where your new comments
would begin.
reply
subscribe
A newsgroup article that is posted to the
newsgroup as a response to another post.
It’s usually a good idea to quote from the article you’re replying to so people know what
you’re talking about. When replying, avoid
posting simply “me too” or “I agree.”
To add a newsgroup to the list of groups you
want to read. If you subscribe to a group,
that newsgroup will appear every time you
open your newsreader. In the vast majority of
cases, subscribing is free. See unsubscribe.
Request for Discussion (RFD)
A test message, usually posted by newbies.
Test messages should only be sent to newsgroups specifically designed for this purpose,
such as misc.test. Warning: put “Ignore” in
your test message’s subject or body, unless
you want lots of automatically generated
response mail.
newsgroup (also group)
signal-to-noise ratio
newsreader
The software you use to access newsgroups.
A newsreader lets you read articles, respond
to them, and post your own.
periodic posting
A newsgroup article that is posted to a group
or groups at regular intervals. An example
of a periodic posting would be a FAQ (list of
Frequently Asked Questions) or other helpful
information.
post
A newsgroup article. Also, the act of sending
an article to a newsgroup so that others can
read and reply to it.
quote
To include part of a previous post when you
follow up to it. Quoting is a good idea be-
www.siliconchip.com.au
spoiler
The newsgroup command to unsubscribe
from a newsgroup.
remove
Another name for newsgroups. Also “Netnews,” “USENET,” or “Usenet.”
An Internet discussion forum, such as rec.
pets.cats or alt.internet.services. All together,
the thousands of newsgroups form a global
bulletin board where people talk about every
topic imaginable. Newsgroups are where you
post articles.
used so often that it crowds everything else
out.
Information that may diminish the enjoyment
someone else gets from a book, movie, tv
show, etc. Example: Posting “The Titanic
sinks!!!” in a current movies newsgroup may
spoil someone who hasn’t seen Titanic. Be
nice: Use warnings (like adding “SPOILER:
Titanic” to the subject line) and add spoiler
space (blank lines before spoiler information)
to posts that may contain spoilers.
An official posting to news.groups that asks
for comments and opinions regarding the
proposal to create a new newsgroup. Part of
the formal newsgroup creation process.
news
(Sorry – we
didn’t mean
to yell!)
An electronics term used to compare the
amount of good, useful info (“signal”) in a
newsgroup with the amount of bad, useless
junk (“noise”). Newsgroups that have lots of
flame wars and spam have a low signal-tonoise ratio.
signature (also sig)
Text added to the bottom of an article or
e-mail to give the reader more information
about the poster. Signatures can include
e-mail and Web addresses, quotes, text art,
and more, though signatures should not be
longer than 4 or 5 lines.
spam
An article that is sent to hundreds or
thousands of different newsgroups, and has
nothing to do with any of them. Often advertisements or “MAKE MONEY FAST”-type
chain letters. Very annoying and a very bad
violation of netiquette. The act of sending
spam is “spamming.” Someone who sends
spam is a “spammer.” The term “spam”
comes from the Monty Python sketch where
the name of the canned meat product is
test
thread
A thread is an ongoing discussion of related
messages that grows from one particular
posting.
troll
A purposely stupid, inflammatory, or
downright wrong article (closely related to
flamebait). Its purpose is to get people mad
and make them look stupid and gullible
unsubscribe
To remove a newsgroup from your newsreader’s active list. If you unsubscribe, you will
no longer see the newsgroup when you open
your newsreader. You can always subscribe
again.
Usenet (also USENET)
The full name of newsgroups is “Usenet
Newsgroups.”
YELLING
To yell on a newsgroup, use capitals. Unless
you are deliberately yelling, using capitals is
considered to be pretty bad Netiquette!
September 2001 93
Newsgroup Abbreviations
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS
COMMON (and many uncommon!) EMOTICONS
AFAIK AKA ASAP BTW BRB FAQ FYI FWIW FIIK FUBAR -
:-)
(-:
:-(
;-)
#-)
=:O
:-|
~~:-[
:-$
:-P
:-<at>
“As Far As I Know”
“Also Known As”
“As Soon As Possible”
“By The Way”
“Be Right Back”
“Frequently asked questions”
“For Your Information”
“For What It’s Worth”
“. . . If I Know"
“. . . Up Beyond All
Recognition”
GD&R - “Grinning, Ducking and
Running (After snide remark)
IAEF “If All Else Fails”
IANAL - “I Am Not A Lawyer (But...)”
IDK “I don’t know”
IMHO - “In My Humble Opinion”
IMO “In My Opinion”
IYKWIM - “If You Know What I Mean”
IYKWIMAITYD - “If You Know What I
Mean And I Think You Do”
LOL “Laughing Out Loud”
OK abbreviation of “oll korrect”,
alteration of “all correct”
OTOH - On The Other Hand
PITA “Pain In The Ass”
PMFJI - “Pardon Me For Jumping In”
PS “Post Script”
TIA “Thanks In Advance”
TPTB - “The Powers That Be”
TTFN - “Ta Ta For Now”
ROTFL - “Rolling On The Floor
Laughing”
RTFM - “Read The . . . Manual
SOHF - “Sense Of Humor Failure”
SWALK - “Sealed With A Loving Kiss”
WRT “With Respect To”
WYSIWYG - “What You See Is What
You Get”
YMMV - “Your Mileage May Vary”
(You may not have the same
luck I did)
YWIA - “You’re Welcome In Advance”
AFK =
away from keyboard
BAK =
back at keyboard
BRB =
be right back
WB =
welcome back
GMTA = great minds think alike
WTG = way to go
RSI =
repetitive strain injury
94 Silicon Chip
Happy
Left Handed/Australian
Sad
Winky
Oh, what a night!
Yelling/Shocked
Frowning
Net Flame
Put Your Money Where Your Mouth Is
Sticking Out Tongue
Screaming/Swearing/Very Angry/
About To Be Sick
:*)
Drunk/Clown
:-#
Been Smacked In The Mouth/
Wears A Brace/Kiss R
-)
Broken Glasses
(:-)
Bald
:-)))
Is Very Fat
:-{}
Wears Lipstick
=:-)
A Dickhead
<at>:-) Wears A Turban
$-)
Yuppie/Just Won A Large Sum Of
Money
:,(
Crying :
=)
Two Noses
8:]
Gorilla
8-)
Wears Glasses
B:-)
Wears Sun Glasses On Head
:-T
Keeping A Straight Face/Tight
Lipped
:-y
Said With A Smile
:-|
Disgusted/Grim/No Expression
:~-(
Crying/Shed A Tear
:’-(
Crying
:~(~~ Crying
:-Q
A Smoker
:-!
A Smoker
%-\
Has A Hangover
|-o
Bored
:-X
A Kiss/Lips Are Sealed
(:-D
Has A Big Mouth
(:+)
Has A Big Nose
:-{)
Has A Moustache
:-*
Just Ate Something Sour/Bitter
Taste/Kiss
[:-)
Is Wearing A Walkman
(:-)
Bicycle Helmets
:-)’
Tends To Drool
=:-)
Punk
+-:-) The Pope
O:-)
An Angel
*<:-)> Santa
o-<:-{{{ Santa
*<|:-) Santa/A Clown
5:-)
Elvis Presley
:-%
Banker
:-:
Mutant Smiley
(-:|:-) Siamese Twins
:-)
7:-)
Fred Flinstone
:/7)
Cyrano de Bergerac
C):-O C):-O C):-O C):-O A Barbershop
Quartet
3:-o
A Cow
8:-)
A Pig/A Little Girl
:\/
A Woodpecker
]:->
The Devil
,-)
A One Eyed Winky
|-(
Lost Contact Lenses
#:-)
Matted Hair/Fur Hat/Crewcut/
Messy Hair
&:-)
Curly Hair
C=:-) A Chef
<at>}->— A Rose
=|:-)= Uncle Sam/Abe Lincoln
7:)
Ronald Reagan
+<:-| Monk/Nun
:_)
A Boxer/Had a Fight
{
A Psycho
(:I
An Egghead
b:-)
A Baseball Fan/Has A Cap On
(-)
Needs A Haircut
;-(*)
Feels Sick
*****:-) Marge Simpson
[:]
A Robot
:-[
A Vampire/Count Dracula/Pouting/
Sarcastic
:-F
A Bucktoothed Vampire/Has Major
Dental Problems
:=)
Orangutan/Has Two Noses
:-?
Smokes A Pipe
:-8(
Condescending
8-#
Death/Dead
;^)
Smirking
:——} Liar/Pinnochio
!-(
Black Eye
)
Cheshire Cat
(:-D
Blabber Mouth
>
A Schizo
*#*!^*&:-) phrenic
:-’|
Has A Cold/Flu
:$)
Donald Trump
:-.)
Marilyn Monroe/Madonna
:-) 8
Dolly Parton
:-|:-|
Deja’vu
<*:oDX A Clown
C|:-= Charlie Chaplin
: .)
Cindy Crawford
=)
Adolf Hitler
~:o
A Baby
===:-D Don King
8(:-)
Mickey Mouse/Walt Disney
(|-| F Robocop
3:*>
Rudolph the Reindeer
P-)
A Pirate
%-~
Picasso
‘:-)
Has One Eyebrow
SC
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Hints o Tips o Upgrades o Fixes
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Troubleshooting your PC: what to do when things go wrong
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09
Silicon Chip
Back Issues
April 1989: Auxiliary Brake Light Flasher; What You Need to Know
About Capacitors; 32-Band Graphic Equaliser, Pt.2.
May 1989: Build A Synthesised Tom-Tom; Biofeedback Monitor For
Your PC; Simple Stub Filter For Suppressing TV Interference.
July 1989: Exhaust Gas Monitor; Experimental Mains Hum Sniffers;
Compact Ultrasonic Car Alarm; The NSW 86 Class Electrics.
September 1989: 2-Chip Portable AM Stereo Radio (Uses MC13024
and TX7376P) Pt.1; High Or Low Fluid Level Detector; Studio Series
20-Band Stereo Equaliser, Pt.2.
September 1993: Automatic Nicad Battery Charger/Discharger; Stereo
Preamplifier With IR Remote Control, Pt.1; In-Circuit Transistor Tester;
+5V to ±15V DC Converter; Remote-Controlled Cockroach.
October 1993: Courtesy Light Switch-Off Timer For Cars; Wireless
Microphone For Musicians; Stereo Preamplifier With IR Remote
Control, Pt.2; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.1.
May 1991: 13.5V 25A Power Supply For Transceivers; Stereo Audio
Expander; Fluorescent Light Simulator For Model Railways; How To
Install Multiple TV Outlets, Pt.1.
July 1991: Loudspeaker Protector For Stereo Amplifiers; 4-Channel
Lighting Desk, Pt.2; How To Install Multiple TV Outlets, Pt.2; Tuning
In To Satellite TV, Pt.2.
September 1991: Digital Altimeter For Gliders & Ultralights; Ultrasonic
Switch For Mains Appliances; The Basics Of A/D & D/A Conversion;
Plotting The Course Of Thunderstorms.
October 1989: FM Radio Intercom For Motorbikes Pt.1; GaAsFet
Preamplifier For Amateur TV; 2-Chip Portable AM Stereo Radio, Pt.2.
October 1991: Build A Talking Voltmeter For Your PC, Pt.1; SteamSound
Simulator For Model Railways Mk.II; Magnetic Field Strength Meter;
Digital Altimeter For Gliders, Pt.2; Military Applications Of R/C Aircraft.
November 1989: Radfax Decoder For Your PC (Displays Fax, RTTY &
Morse); FM Radio Intercom For Motorbikes, Pt.2; 2-Chip Portable AM
Stereo Radio, Pt.3; Floppy Disk Drive Formats & Options.
November 1991: Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.1; A Junkbox 2-Valve
Receiver; Flashing Alarm Light For Cars; Digital Altimeter For Gliders,
Pt.3; Build A Talking Voltmeter For Your PC, Pt.2.
January 1990: High Quality Sine/Square Oscillator; Service Tips For
Your VCR; Phone Patch For Radio Amateurs; Active Antenna Kit;
Designing UHF Transmitter Stages.
December 1991: TV Transmitter For VCRs With UHF Modulators;
Infrared Light Beam Relay; Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.2; Index
To Volume 4.
February 1990: A 16-Channel Mixing Desk; Build A High Quality Audio
Oscillator, Pt.2; The Incredible Hot Canaries; Random Wire Antenna
Tuner For 6 Metres; Phone Patch For Radio Amateurs, Pt.2.
January 1992: 4-Channel Guitar Mixer; Adjustable 0-45V 8A Power
Supply, Pt.1; Baby Room Monitor/FM Transmitter; Experiments For
Your Games Card.
March 1990: Delay Unit For Automatic Antennas; Workout Timer For
Aerobics Classes; 16-Channel Mixing Desk, Pt.2; Using The UC3906
SLA Battery Charger IC.
March 1992: TV Transmitter For VHF VCRs; Thermostatic Switch For
Car Radiator Fans; Coping With Damaged Computer Directories; Valve
Substitution In Vintage Radios.
April 1990: Dual Tracking ±50V Power Supply; Voice-Operated Switch
(VOX) With Delayed Audio; 16-Channel Mixing Desk, Pt.3; Active CW
Filter; Servicing Your Microwave Oven.
April 1992: IR Remote Control For Model Railroads; Differential Input
Buffer For CROs; Understanding Computer Memory; Aligning Vintage
Radio Receivers, Pt.1.
June 1990: Multi-Sector Home Burglar Alarm; Build A Low-Noise
Universal Stereo Preamplifier; Load Protector For Power Supplies.
June 1992: Multi-Station Headset Intercom, Pt.1; Video Switcher For
Camcorders & VCRs; IR Remote Control For Model Railroads, Pt.3;
15-Watt 12-240V Inverter; A Look At Hard Disk Drives.
July 1990: Digital Sine/Square Generator, Pt.1 (covers 0-500kHz);
Burglar Alarm Keypad & Combination Lock; Build A Simple Electronic
Die; A Low-Cost Dual Power Supply.
August 1990: High Stability UHF Remote Transmitter; Universal Safety
Timer For Mains Appliances (9 Minutes); Horace The Electronic Cricket;
Digital Sine/Square Generator, Pt.2.
September 1990: A Low-Cost 3-Digit Counter Module; Build A Simple
Shortwave Converter For The 2-Metre Band; The Care & Feeding Of
Nicad Battery Packs (Getting The Most From Nicad Batteries).
October 1990: The Dangers of PCBs; Low-Cost Siren For Burglar
Alarms; Dimming Controls For The Discolight; Surfsound Simulator;
DC Offset For DMMs; NE602 Converter Circuits.
November 1990: Connecting Two TV Sets To One VCR; Build An Egg
Timer; Low-Cost Model Train Controller; 1.5V To 9V DC Converter;
Introduction To Digital Electronics; A 6-Metre Amateur Transmitter.
December 1990: 100W DC-DC Converter For Car Amplifiers; Wiper
Pulser For Rear Windows; 4-Digit Combination Lock; 5W Power
Amplifier For The 6-Metre Amateur Transmitter; Index To Volume 3.
\January 1991: Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries, Pt.1; Have Fun With
The Fruit Machine (Simple Poker Machine); Build A Two-Tone Alarm
Module; The Dangers of Servicing Microwave Ovens.
November 1993: High Efficiency Inverter For Fluorescent Tubes; Stereo
Preamplifier With IR Remote Control, Pt.3; Siren Sound Generator;
Engine Management, Pt.2; Experiments For Games Cards.
December 1993: Remote Controller For Garage Doors; Build A LED
Stroboscope; Build A 25W Audio Amplifier Module; A 1-Chip Melody
Generator; Engine Management, Pt.3; Index To Volume 6.
January 1994: 3A 40V Variable Power Supply; Solar Panel Switching
Regulator; Printer Status Indicator; Mini Drill Speed Controller; Stepper
Motor Controller; Active Filter Design; Engine Management, Pt.4.
February 1994: Build A 90-Second Message Recorder; 12-240VAC
200W Inverter; 0.5W Audio Amplifier; 3A 40V Adjustable Power
Supply; Engine Management, Pt.5; Airbags In Cars – How They Work.
March 1994: Intelligent IR Remote Controller; 50W (LM3876) Audio
Amplifier Module; Level Crossing Detector For Model Railways; Voice
Activated Switch For FM Microphones; Engine Management, Pt.6.
April 1994: Sound & Lights For Model Railway Level Crossings; Discrete
Dual Supply Voltage Regulator; Universal Stereo Preamplifier; Digital
Water Tank Gauge; Engine Management, Pt.7.
May 1994: Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries; Induction Balance Metal
Locator; Multi-Channel Infrared Remote Control; Dual Electronic Dice;
Simple Servo Driver Circuits; Engine Management, Pt.8.
June 1994: 200W/350W Mosfet Amplifier Module; A Coolant Level
Alarm For Your Car; 80-Metre AM/CW Transmitter For Amateurs;
Converting Phono Inputs To Line Inputs; PC-Based Nicad Battery
Monitor; Engine Management, Pt.9.
July 1994: Build A 4-Bay Bow-Tie UHF TV Antenna; PreChamp 2-Transistor Preamplifier; Steam Train Whistle & Diesel Horn Simulator; 6V
SLA Battery Charger; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.10.
August 1994: High-Power Dimmer For Incandescent Lights; Microprocessor-Controlled Morse Keyer; Dual Diversity Tuner For FM
Microphones, Pt.1; Nicad Zapper (For Resurrecting Nicad Batteries);
Electronic Engine Management, Pt.11.
August 1992: Automatic SLA Battery Charger; Miniature 1.5V To 9V
DC Converter; 1kW Dummy Load Box For Audio Amplifiers; Troubleshooting Vintage Radio Receivers; The MIDI Interface Explained.
September 1994: Automatic Discharger For Nicad Battery Packs;
MiniVox Voice Operated Relay; Image Intensified Night Viewer; AM
Radio For Weather Beacons; Dual Diversity Tuner For FM Microphones,
Pt.2; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.12.
October 1992: 2kW 24VDC - 240VAC Sinewave Inverter; Multi-Sector
Home Burglar Alarm, Pt.2; Mini Amplifier For Personal Stereos; A
Regulated Lead-Acid Battery Charger.
October 1994: How Dolby Surround Sound Works; Dual Rail Variable
Power Supply; Build A Talking Headlight Reminder; Electronic Ballast
For Fluorescent Lights; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.13.
January 1993: Flea-Power AM Radio Transmitter; High Intensity LED
Flasher For Bicycles; 2kW 24VDC To 240VAC Sinewave Inverter, Pt.4;
Speed Controller For Electric Models, Pt.3.
November 1994: Dry Cell Battery Rejuvenator; Novel Alphanumeric
Clock; 80-Metre DSB Amateur Transmitter; Twin-Cell Nicad Discharger
(See May 1993); How To Plot Patterns Direct to PC Boards.
February 1993: Three Projects For Model Railroads; Low Fuel Indicator
For Cars; Audio Level/VU Meter (LED Readout); An Electronic Cockroach; 2kW 24VDC To 240VAC Sinewave Inverter, Pt.5.
December 1994: Easy-To-Build Car Burglar Alarm; Three-Spot Low
Distortion Sinewave Oscillator; Clifford – A Pesky Electronic Cricket;
Remote Control System for Models, Pt.1; Index to Vol.7.
March 1993: Solar Charger For 12V Batteries; Alarm-Triggered Security
Camera; Reaction Trainer; Audio Mixer for Camcorders; A 24-Hour
Sidereal Clock For Astronomers.
January 1995: Sun Tracker For Solar Panels; Battery Saver For Torches;
Dolby Pro-Logic Surround Sound Decoder, Pt.2; Dual Channel UHF
Remote Control; Stereo Microphone Preamplifier.
April 1993: Solar-Powered Electric Fence; Audio Power Meter;
Three-Function Home Weather Station; 12VDC To 70VDC Converter;
Digital Clock With Battery Back-Up.
February 1995: 50-Watt/Channel Stereo Amplifier Module; Digital
Effects Unit For Musicians; 6-Channel Thermometer With LCD Readout;
Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers, Pt.1; Oil Change Timer For
Cars; Remote Control System For Models, Pt.2.
June 1993: AM Radio Trainer, Pt.1; Remote Control For The Woofer
Stopper; Digital Voltmeter For Cars; Windows-Based Logic Analyser.
March 1991: Transistor Beta Tester Mk.2; A Synthesised AM Stereo
Tuner, Pt.2; Multi-Purpose I/O Board For PC-Compatibles; Universal
Wideband RF Preamplifier For Amateur Radio & TV.
July 1993: Single Chip Message Recorder; Light Beam Relay
Extender; AM Radio Trainer, Pt.2; Quiz Game Adjudicator; Windows-Based Logic Analyser, Pt.2; Antenna Tuners – Why They Are Useful.
April 1991: Steam Sound Simulator For Model Railroads; Simple
12/24V Light Chaser; Synthesised AM Stereo Tuner, Pt.3; A Practical
Approach To Amplifier Design, Pt.2.
August 1993: Low-Cost Colour Video Fader; 60-LED Brake Light
Array; Microprocessor-Based Sidereal Clock; A Look At Satellites
& Their Orbits.
March 1995: 50 Watt Per Channel Stereo Amplifier, Pt.1; Subcarrier
Decoder For FM Receivers; Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers,
Pt.2; IR Illuminator For CCD Cameras; Remote Control System For
Models, Pt.3; Simple CW Filter.
April 1995: FM Radio Trainer, Pt.1; Photographic Timer For Dark
rooms; Balanced Microphone Preamp. & Line Filter; 50W/Channel
Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2; Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers, Pt.3;
8-Channel Decoder For Radio Remote Control.
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May 1995: Build A Guitar Headphone Amplifier; FM Radio Trainer, Pt.2;
Transistor/Mosfet Tester For DMMs; A 16-Channel Decoder For Radio
Remote Control; Introduction to Satellite TV.
November 1997: Heavy Duty 10A 240VAC Motor Speed Controller;
Easy-To-Use Cable & Wiring Tester; Build A Musical Doorbell; Replacing Foam Speaker Surrounds; Understanding Electric Lighting Pt.1.
June 1995: Build A Satellite TV Receiver; Train Detector For Model
Railways; 1W Audio Amplifier Trainer; Low-Cost Video Security System;
Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter For Models, Pt.1.
December 1997: Speed Alarm For Cars; 2-Axis Robot w/Gripper; Loudness
Control For Car Hifi Systems; Stepper Motor Driver With Buffer; Power
Supply For Stepper Motor Cards; Understanding Electric Lighting Pt.2.
July 1995: Electric Fence Controller; How To Run Two Trains On A
Single Track (Incl. Lights & Sound); Setting Up A Satellite TV Ground
Station; Build A Reliable Door Minder.
January 1998: Build Your Own 4-Channel Lightshow, Pt.1 (runs off
12VDC or 12VAC); Command Control System For Model Railways, Pt.1;
Pan Controller For CCD Cameras; Build A One Or Two-Lamp Flasher;
Understanding Electric Lighting, Pt.3.
August 1995: Fuel Injector Monitor For Cars; Gain Controlled Microphone Preamp; Audio Lab PC-Controlled Test Instrument, Pt.1; How
To Identify IDE Hard Disk Drive Parameters.
September 1995: Railpower Mk.2 Walkaround Throttle For Model
Railways, Pt.1; Keypad Combination Lock; The Vader Voice; Jacob’s
Ladder Display; Audio Lab PC-Controlled Test Instrument, Pt.2.
October 1995: 3-Way Bass Reflex Loudspeaker System; Railpower
Mk.2 Walkaround Throttle For Model Railways, Pt.2; Fast Charger
For Nicad Batteries; Digital Speedometer & Fuel Gauge For Cars, Pt.1.
November 1995: Mixture Display For Fuel Injected Cars; CB Transverter
For The 80M Amateur Band, Pt.1; PIR Movement Detector; Digital
Speedometer & Fuel Gauge For Cars, Pt.2.
December 1995: Engine Immobiliser; 5-Band Equaliser; CB Transverter
For The 80M Amateur Band, Pt.2; Subwoofer Controller; Knock Sensing
In Cars; Index To Volume 8.
February 1998: Multi-Purpose Fast Battery Charger, Pt.1; Telephone
Exchange Simulator For Testing; Command Control System For
Model Railways, Pt.2; Build Your Own 4-Channel Lightshow, Pt.2;
Understanding Electric Lighting, Pt.4.
April 1998: Automatic Garage Door Opener, Pt.1; 40V 8A Adjustable
Power Supply, Pt.1; PC-Controlled 0-30kHz Sinewave Generator; Build
A Laser Light Show; Understanding Electric Lighting; Pt.6.
May 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.1; Build A 3-LED Logic Probe;
Automatic Garage Door Opener, Pt.2; Command Control For Model
Railways, Pt.4; 40V 8A Adjustable Power Supply, Pt.2.
June 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.2; Understanding Electric
Lighting, Pt.7; Universal High Energy Ignition System; The Roadies’
Friend Cable Tester; Universal Stepper Motor Controller; Command
Control For Model Railways, Pt.5.
December 1999: Electric Lighting, Pt.16; Build A Solar Panel Regulator;
The PC Powerhouse (gives fixed +12V, +9V, +6V & +5V rails); The
Fortune Finder Metal Locator; Speed Alarm For Cars, Pt.2; Railpower
Model Train Controller, Pt.3; Index To Volume 12.
January 2000: Spring Reverberation Module; An Audio-Video Test
Generator; Build The Picman Programmable Robot; A Parallel Port
Interface Card; Off-Hook Indicator For Telephone Lines.
February 2000: Multi-Sector Sprinkler Controller; A Digital Voltmeter
For Your Car; An Ultrasonic Parking Radar; Build A Safety Switch
Checker; Build A Sine/Square Wave Oscillator; Marantz SR-18 Home
Theatre Receiver (Review); The “Hot Chip” Starter Kit (Review).
March 2000: Doing A Lazarus On An Old Computer; Ultra Low Distortion
100W Amplifier Module, Pt.1; Electronic Wind Vane With 16-LED Display; Glowplug Driver For Powered Models; The OzTrip Car Computer,
Pt.1; Multisim Circuit Design & Simulation Package (Review).
April 2000: A Digital Tachometer For Your Car; RoomGuard – A LowCost Intruder Alarm; Build A Hot wire Cutter; The OzTrip Car Computer,
Pt.2; Build A Temperature Logger; Atmel’s ICE 200 In-Circuit Emulator;
How To Run A 3-Phase Induction Motor From 240VAC.
May 2000: Ultra-LD Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2; Build A LED Dice (With
PIC Microcontroller); Low-Cost AT Keyboard Translator (Converts
IBM Scan-Codes To ASCII); 50A Motor Speed Controller For Models.
June 2000: Automatic Rain Gauge With Digital Readout; Parallel Port
VHF FM Receiver; Li’l Powerhouse Switchmode Power Supply (1.23V
to 40V) Pt.1; CD Compressor For Cars Or The Home.
January 1996: Surround Sound Mixer & Decoder, Pt.1; Magnetic Card
Reader; Build An Automatic Sprinkler Controller; IR Remote Control
For The Railpower Mk.2; Recharging Nicad Batteries For Long Life.
July 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.3 (Installing A Modem And
Solving Problems); Build A Heat Controller; 15-Watt Class-A Audio
Amplifier Module; Simple Charger For 6V & 12V SLA Batteries; Automatic Semiconductor Analyser; Understanding Electric Lighting, Pt.8.
April 1996: Cheap Battery Refills For Mobile Telephones; 125W Audio
Amplifier Module; Knock Indicator For Leaded Petrol Engines; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter; Pt.3; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.2.
August 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.4 (Adding Extra Memory);
Build The Opus One Loudspeaker System; Simple I/O Card With
Automatic Data Logging; Build A Beat Triggered Strobe; A 15-Watt
Per Channel Class-A Stereo Amplifier.
August 2000: Build A Theremin For Really Eeerie Sounds; Come In
Spinner (writes messages in “thin-air”); Loudspeaker Protector &
Fan Controller For The Ultra-LD Stereo Amplifier; Proximity Switch
For 240VAC Lamps; Structured Cabling For Computer Networks.
September 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.5 (Software Problems
& DOS Games); A Blocked Air-Filter Alarm; A Waa-Waa Pedal For Your
Guitar; Build A Plasma Display Or Jacob’s Ladder; Gear Change Indicator
For Cars; Capacity Indicator For Rechargeable Batteries.
September 2000: Build A Swimming Pool Alarm; An 8-Channel PC
Relay Board; Fuel Mixture Display For Cars, Pt.1; Protoboards – The
Easy Way Into Electronics, Pt.1; Cybug The Solar Fly.
May 1996: Upgrading The CPU In Your PC; High Voltage Insulation
Tester; Knightrider Bi-Directional LED Chaser; Simple Duplex Intercom
Using Fibre Optic Cable; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.3.
June 1996: BassBox CAD Loudspeaker Software Reviewed; Stereo
Simulator (uses delay chip); Rope Light Chaser; Low Ohms Tester
For Your DMM; Automatic 10A Battery Charger.
July 1996: Build A VGA Digital Oscilloscope, Pt.1; Remote Control
Extender For VCRs; 2A SLA Battery Charger; 3-Band Parametric
Equaliser; Single Channel 8-Bit Data Logger.
August 1996: Introduction to IGBTs; Electronic Starter For Fluorescent
Lamps; VGA Oscilloscope, Pt.2; 350W Amplifier Module; Masthead
Amplifier For TV & FM; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.4.
October 1998: Lab Quality AC Millivoltmeter, Pt.1; PC-Controlled
Stress-O-Meter; Versatile Electronic Guitar Limiter; 12V Trickle Charger
For Float Conditions; Adding An External Battery Pack To Your Flashgun.
November 1998: The Christmas Star; A Turbo Timer For Cars; Build
A Poker Machine, Pt.1; FM Transmitter For Musicians; Lab Quality AC
Millivoltmeter, Pt.2; Setting Up A LAN Using TCP/IP; Understanding
Electric Lighting, Pt.9; Improving AM Radio Reception, Pt.1.
September 1996: VGA Oscilloscope, Pt.3; IR Stereo Headphone Link,
Pt.1; High Quality PA Loudspeaker; 3-Band HF Amateur Radio Receiver;
Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.5.
December 1998: Protect Your Car With The Engine Immobiliser Mk.2;
Thermocouple Adaptor For DMMs; A Regulated 12V DC Plugpack; Build
Your Own Poker Machine, Pt.2; Improving AM Radio Reception, Pt.2;
Mixer Module For F3B Glider Operations.
October 1996: Send Video Signals Over Twisted Pair Cable; Power
Control With A Light Dimmer; 600W DC-DC Converter For Car Hifi
Systems, Pt.1; IR Stereo Headphone Link, Pt.2; Build A Multi-Media
Sound System, Pt.1; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter, Pt.8.
January 1999: High-Voltage Megohm Tester; Getting Started
With BASIC Stamp; LED Bargraph Ammeter For Cars; Keypad
Engine Immobiliser; Improving AM Radio Reception, Pt.3; Electric
Lighting, Pt.10.
November 1996: Adding A Parallel Port To Your Computer; 8-Channel
Stereo Mixer, Pt.1; Low-Cost Fluorescent Light Inverter; How To Repair
Light Dimmers; 600W DC-DC Converter For Car Hifi Systems, Pt.2.
February 1999: Installing A Computer Network; Making Front Panels
For Your Projects; Low Distortion Audio Signal Generator, Pt.1; Command Control Decoder For Model Railways; Build A Digital Capacitance
Meter; Build A Remote Control Tester; Electric Lighting, Pt.11.
December 1996: Active Filter Cleans Up Your CW Reception; A Fast
Clock For Railway Modellers; Laser Pistol & Electronic Target; Build A
Sound Level Meter; 8-Channel Stereo Mixer, Pt.2; Index To Volume 9.
January 1997: How To Network Your PC; Control Panel For Multiple
Smoke Alarms, Pt.1; Build A Pink Noise Source; Computer Controlled
Dual Power Supply, Pt.1; Digi-Temp Monitors Eight Temperatures.
February 1997: Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.6; PC-Controlled Moving
Message Display; Computer Controlled Dual Power Supply, Pt.2; Loud
Sounding Telephone Alarm; Control Panel For Multiple Smoke Alarms, Pt.2.
March 1997: Driving A Computer By Remote Control; Plastic Power
PA Amplifier (175W); Signalling & Lighting For Model Railways; Build
A Jumbo LED Clock; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.7.
April 1997: Simple Timer With No ICs; Digital Voltmeter For Cars;
Loudspeaker Protector For Stereo Amplifiers; Model Train Controller;
A Look At Signal Tracing; Pt.1; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.8.
March 1999: Getting Started With Linux; Pt.1; Build A Digital
Anemometer; 3-Channel Current Monitor With Data Logging; Simple
DIY PIC Programmer; Easy-To-Build Audio Compressor; Low Distortion
Audio Signal Generator, Pt.2; Electric Lighting, Pt.12.
April 1999: Getting Started With Linux; Pt.2; High-Power Electric
Fence Controller; Bass Cube Subwoofer; Programmable Thermostat/
Thermometer; Build An Infrared Sentry; Rev Limiter For Cars; Electric
Lighting, Pt.13; Autopilots For Radio-Controlled Model Aircraft.
May 1999: The Line Dancer Robot; An X-Y Table With Stepper Motor
Control, Pt.1; Three Electric Fence Testers; Heart Of LEDs; Build A
Carbon Monoxide Alarm; Getting Started With Linux; Pt.3.
June 1999: FM Radio Tuner Card For PCs; X-Y Table With Stepper Motor
Control, Pt.2; Programmable Ignition Timing Module For Cars, Pt.1;
Hard Disk Drive Upgrades Without Reinstalling Software?
May 1997: Neon Tube Modulator For Light Systems; Traffic Lights For
A Model Intersection; The Spacewriter – It Writes Messages In Thin
Air; A Look At Signal Tracing; Pt.2; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.9.
July 1999: Build A Dog Silencer; 10µH to 19.99mH Inductance
Meter; Build An Audio-Video Transmitter; Programmable Ignition
Timing Module For Cars, Pt.2; XYZ Table With Stepper Motor
Control, Pt.3.
June 1997: PC-Controlled Thermometer/Thermostat; Colour TV Pattern
Generator, Pt.1; Audio/RF Signal Tracer; High-Current Speed Controller
For 12V/24V Motors; Manual Control Circuit For A Stepper Motor.
August 1999: Remote Modem Controller; Daytime Running Lights
For Cars; Build A PC Monitor Checker; Switching Temperature
Controller; XYZ Table With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.4; Electric
Lighting, Pt.14.
July 1997: Infrared Remote Volume Control; A Flexible Interface Card
For PCs; Points Controller For Model Railways; Colour TV Pattern
Generator, Pt.2; An In-Line Mixer For Radio Control Receivers.
August 1997: The Bass Barrel Subwoofer; 500 Watt Audio Power
Amplifier Module; A TENs Unit For Pain Relief; Addressable PC Card
For Stepper Motor Control; Remote Controlled Gates For Your Home.
September 1997: Multi-Spark Capacitor Discharge Ignition; 500W
Audio Power Amplifier, Pt.2; A Video Security System For Your Home;
PC Card For Controlling Two Stepper Motors; HiFi On A Budget.
October 1997: Build A 5-Digit Tachometer; Add Central Locking To Your
Car; PC-Controlled 6-Channel Voltmeter; 500W Audio Power Amplifier,
Pt.3; Customising The Windows 95 Start Menu.
www.siliconchip.com.au
September 1999: Automatic Addressing On TCP/IP Networks; Autonomouse The Robot, Pt.1; Voice Direct Speech Recognition Module;
Digital Electrolytic Capacitance Meter; XYZ Table With Stepper Motor
Control, Pt.5; Peltier-Powered Can Cooler.
October 1999: Sharing A Modem For Internet & Email Access (WinGate); Build The Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.1; Semiconductor
Curve Tracer; Autonomouse The Robot, Pt.2; XYZ Table With Stepper
Motor Control, Pt.6; Introducing Home Theatre.
November 1999: Electric Lighting, Pt.15; Setting Up An Email Server;
Speed Alarm For Cars, Pt.1; Multi-Colour LED Christmas Tree; Build
An Intercom Station Expander; Foldback Loudspeaker System For
Musicians; Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.2.
July 2000: A Moving Message Display; Compact Fluorescent Lamp
Driver; El-Cheapo Musicians’ Lead Tester; Li’l Powerhouse Switchmode
Power Supply (1.23V to 40V) Pt.2; Say Bye-Bye To Your 12V Car Battery.
October 2000: Guitar Jammer For Practice & Jam Sessions; Booze
Buster Breath Tester; A Wand-Mounted Inspection Camera); Installing
A Free-Air Subwoofer In Your Car; Fuel Mixture Display For Cars, Pt.2;
Protoboards – The Easy Way Into Electronics, Pt.2.
November 2000: Santa & Rudolf Chrissie Display; 2-Channel Guitar
Preamplifier, Pt.1; Message Bank & Missed Call Alert; Electronic
Thermostat; Protoboards – The Easy Way Into Electronics, Pt.3.
December 2000: Home Networking For Shared Internet Access; Build
A Bright-White LED Torch; 2-Channel Guitar Preamplifier, Pt.2 (Digital
Reverb); Driving An LCD From The Parallel Port; Build A morse Clock;
Protoboards – The Easy Way Into Electronics, Pt.4; Index To Vol.13.
January 2001: LP Resurrection – Transferring LPs & Tapes To CD;
The LP Doctor – Clean Up Clicks & Pops, Pt.1; Arbitrary Waveform
Generator; 2-Channel Guitar Preamplifier, Pt.3; PIC Programmer &
TestBed; Wireless Networking.
February 2001: How To Observe Meteors Using Junked Gear; An
Easy Way To Make PC Boards; L’il Pulser Train Controller; Midi-Mate
– A MIDI Interface For PCs; Build The Bass Blazer; 2-Metre Elevated
Groundplane Antenna; The LP Doctor – Clean Up Clicks & Pops, Pt.2.
March 2001: Driving Your Phone From A PC; Making Photo Resist
PC Boards At Home; Big-Digit 12/24 Hour Clock; Parallel Port PIC
Programmer & Checkerboard; Protoboards – The Easy Way Into
Electronics, Pt.5; More MIDI – A Simple MIDI Expansion Box.
April 2001: A GPS Module For Your PC; Dr Video – An Easy-To-Build
Video Stabiliser; A Tremolo Unit For Musicians; Minimitter FM Stereo
Transmitter; Intelligent Nicad Battery Charger; Computer Tips – Tweaking Internet Connection Sharing.
May 2001: Powerful 12V Mini Stereo Amplifier; Microcontroller-Based
4-Digit Counter Modules; Two White-LED Torches To Build; A Servo
With Lots Of Grunt; PowerPak – A Multi-Voltage Power Supply; Using
Linux To Share An Internet Connection, Pt.1; Computer Tips – Tweaking
Windows With TweakUI.
June 2001: Fast Universal Battery Charger, Pt.1; Phonome – Call, Listen
In & Switch Devices On & Off; L’il Snooper – A low-Cost Automatic
Camera Switcher; Build a PC Games Port Tester; Using Linux To Share
An Internet Connection, Pt.2; A PC To Die For, Pt.1.
July 2001: The HeartMate Heart Rate Monitor; Do Not Disturb Tele
phone Timer; Pic-Toc – A Simple Alarm Clock; Fast Universal Battery
Charger, Pt.2; A PC To Die For, Pt.2; Computer Tips – Backing Up Your
Email; Digital Amplifiers Are Here (Feature).
August 2001: Direct Injection Box For Musicians; Build A 200W Mosfet
Amplifier Module; Headlight Reminder For Cars; 40MHz 6-Digit Frequency Counter Module; A PC To Die For, Pt.3; Using Linux To Share
An Internet Connection, Pt.3.
PLEASE NOTE: November 1987 to March 1989, June 1989, August
1989, December 1989, May 1990, February 1991, June 1991, August
1991, February 1992, July 1992, September 1992, November 1992,
December 1992, May 1993, February 1996 and March 1998 are now
sold out. All other issues are presently in stock. For readers wanting
articles from sold-out issues, we can supply photostat copies (or tear
sheets) at $7.70 per article (includes p&p). When supplying photostat
articles or back copies, we automatically supply any relevant notes &
errata at no extra charge. A complete index to all articles published
to date is available on floppy disk for $11 including p&p, or can be
downloaded free from our web site: www.siliconchip.com.au
September 2001 97
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Write to: Ask Silicon Chip, PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097; or
send an email to silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
How do
servos work
I understand the basics of the theory
of proportional radio control but have
you ever published an article about
what the inside of a servo looks like?
Obviously, the servo plugs straight into
the receiver of the radio control unit
but I was wondering what the motor
is like, what limits its movement, etc.
(B. T., via email).
• We published an article on servos,
including an exploded diagram, in the
March 1991 issue. We represented the
article in November 1997.
Power rating for
speed controller
I built your motor speed controller
from the November 1997 issue (Dick
Smith Electronics kit). It works well
in testing but I haven’t loaded it up
yet. I notice in the inset titled “What
Motors Can Be Controlled?” you state
that the controller is only suitable for
“intermittently used power tools”.
I guess that means it’s not rated for
continuous use. What is the duty cycle
Can SLA batteries
be topped up?
Some time ago, I built the Mk1
version of your Universal Battery
Charger and have a few queries:
(1) I have a 6V 5Ah SLA lantern
battery which I have difficulty in
charging. The charger 100% LED
will light when this battery is connected, even if it is discharged.
(2) It is not recommended to top
up Nicad batteries because of the
“memory effect”. However, is it
possible to do this with an SLA
battery so that my lantern torch is
always on maximum capacity when
I take it away on trips?
(3) I am interested in radio control
modelling and use my charger to
charge transmitter (9.6V), receiv98 Silicon Chip
of the controller? (C. C., via email).
Our article makes no mention of
intermittent use. Provided the case
does not get hot to the touch, there
is no reason why it cannot be used
continuously.
•
Bigger transformer
for 500W amplifier
I was just wondering about the limitations of the 500W amplifier designed
back in August, September & October
1997. The reason I’m interested is that
I bought eight of these from Jaycar as
an investment. At the time, I didn’t
have the cash for the power supply
but I now have the funds to finally
finish these pieces of art. However, I
have noticed that the original 800VA
(57V-0-57V) toroidals are no longer
available. Would two 500VA (65V-065V) do the trick for each amplifier?
Considering these toroidals have a
higher voltage, would I need capacitors with a higher voltage capacity?
Would higher capacitance help as
well? I’m not expecting huge gains
from the amplifier; just another 50100W of headroom. Will the amplifi
er (4.8V) and field packs (7.2V).
I would like to be able to use the
charger in the field. Therefore, is it
possible for you to design a modification for both Mk1 and Mk2
models to operate from a 12V car
battery? (D. M., via email).
• The Mk1 version of the charger
sometimes had problems with
particular cells or batteries. Your
charging problem could be solved
by upgrading to the Mk2 version.
You can top up SLA batteries as
these are “sealed lead acid” chemistry and do not have the Nicad
memory effect.
The charger is not suitable for
operating on 12VDC as the circuit
has been optimised for use with raw
DC (from a transformer and bridge
rectifier).
er drive 2-ohm loads with the higher
spec components? (M. G., Glenorie,
NSW).
• First, you cannot substitute a transformer with 65V windings as this will
increase the amplifier supply rails to
over 90V and increase the overall amplifier dissipation by 30%! We suggest
you contact Harbuch Electronics on
(02) 9476 5854. They can wind suitable
transformers to order.
We do not recommend operation
with 2-ohm loads as it will exceed the
safe operating area ratings (SOAR) of
both the output transistors and the
driver transistors – see Fig.2, page 27
of the August 1997 issue.
Tone controls
for bass guitar
I had success in assembling the guitar preamp and a 120W power amplifier and was delighted that it worked
first time. The unit is for a bass guitar
for my son and this is where my ques
tion arises. Can you supply me with
substitute values for the tone control
stage to suit a bass guitar? I am not sure
what the treble and bass mid-points
are but possibly 400Hz and 4kHz? (J.
P., via email).
• We don’t know which guitar preamplifier you assembled: the January
1992 design or the November 2000 design. Either way, we would not change
the tone control. There is very little
treble from a bass guitar and increasing
the treble boost will only increase the
residual noise. Nor would we change
the bass crossover as it is likely to lead
to premature overload.
Parts for 24V
battery charger
I have been searching for a suitable
24V battery charger for some restored
railway carriages and have found the
“Automatic 10 Amp Charger” in the
June 1996 issue. There are no suppliers for this project and some of the
components are proving difficult to
source. They are:
www.siliconchip.com.au
(1) “E-type ferrite transformer with
bobbin, Jaycar LF-1270 or similar”.
The current product with that Jaycar
Cat. No. is an inductor and not the said
transformer.
(2) ETD 29 transformer assembly.
(3) BYV32-200. I presume there is an
updated equivalent but not sure how
critical it is. (R. P., via email).
• The ETD29 is available from Farnell
Electronics. Their catalog number is
305-6375 for each core (2 required),
178-506 for the bobbin and 178-507
for clips (2 required).
The T1 transformer is not available
from Jaycar now. You could use an
EFD25 which will almost fit in the PC
board holes but redrilling the holes
will allow this to be used. The Farnell
catalog numbers for this are 200-300
for the cores (2 required), 200-311
for bobbin and 200-323 for clips (2
required).
The BYV32-200 is also available
from Farnell. The Cat. number is
250-650.
Is CDI dangerous
for a motor bike?
I built the HEI (high energy ignition) kit for my Falcon not too long
ago. I am very impressed with it.
Now I would like to try something
different and build the Multi-Spark
Capacitor Discharge Ignition (CDI)
described in September 1997, for a
motor bike. I have a few problems
that you may have answers for. The
bike that I would like to put this
on has a 4-cylinder 250cc 16-valve
engine.
My main concern is that it is
such a small engine and the high
energy spark may arc to the aluminium head and damage it in
the long term. The spark plugs
under the normal twin-coil system
produce a rather pathetic spark at
higher revs.
In the workshop manual for my 1994
Ford Falcon it says that the EGO sensor
has an output from 0.33V to 1.1V. Can
I am building the Digital Fuel Dis- I tune the meter for this and do I make
the span from 0.33V to 1.1V instead
play described in the September &
of 0V to 1V? Also, will this change
October 2000 issues of SILICON CHIP.
In the instruction section for cali- the lambda to a different value? (B.
brating the air/fuel meter, it describes B., via email).
the procedure for setting the trimpots • You can set the span and offset
for a Bosch EGO sensor with an out- to 1.1V and 330mV if you need to.
put of 0-1V. It also states that if you However, the actual curve shape will
have the output specs for the EGO still follow the Bosch sensor as prosensor in your car you can trim these grammed. A complete curve match
80x181mm.qxd
3/5/01 11:37 AM Page
1
would
require adjusting the curve
pots
to suit.
Calibrating the digital
fuel mixture display
Spark plug sizes are somewhat
smaller than that of a car. The
cylinder has a small 30mm stroke.
Peak revs are at 17,000 rpm after
which it redlines to 19,500 rpm. The
cylinder configuration is two up,
two down; ie, two outer cylinders
up while the two centre cylinders
are down. They fire in a 1 3 4 2
sequence.
Do you have any comments or
suggestions?
• While the CDI does have high
energy, the actual spark vol
tage
depends on the cylinder pressure.
When the engine is under load, the
cylinder pressures are higher and
the voltage across the spark plug
will rise to a higher voltage before
it fires. But there is no danger of
damage to the cylinder heads, even
if there was an arc-over, which is
highly unlikely.
lookup table in the program.
The 0.6V stoichiometric point
should not change much with a different offset voltage.
How to wind coils
with enamelled wire
I have a quick query on the MiniMitter (April 2001) that I am currently
constructing. I am not quite sure how
to construct coils L1 and L2. Does the
enamelled copper wire need to be
soldered to the pins on the former? If
Meterman. The Working Man’s Meter.
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You work hard on the job. Get the tool that’s easy on your wallet.
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www.siliconchip.com.au
September 2001 99
Kit wanted for
rust prevention
On many occasions when I have
been to car shows, I have seen a
product that prevents rust by electronic means. These units are generally housed in a small aluminium
case and are only about the size of
cassette for a motorbike and double that size for standard vehicle.
They connect to the frame and use
the 12V wiring from the vehicle. I
absolutely have no idea how it is
possible to completely stop rust,
especially by electronic means!
If they work as well as the representatives say, I would like to know
whether it is feasible to make a kit
that would do the same job? I’d
assume it would be a popular kit,
especially for those of us that own
older “non plastic” cars.
so, how is this done? I have tried unsuccessfully, only managing to deform
the foot of the former with the heat. (I.
C., via email).
• We generally give fairly detailed
info on winding coils but this time we
forgot. You have to scrape the enamel
off the copper wire before you can
solder to it. Scrape it off, tin it with
solder and then solder it to the pins
on the coil formers.
Gas sensor
project
Did you ever feature a gas detector
in your magazine? A fellow worker
seems to think he saw one in one of
your magazines. (M. M., via email).
• We published a carbon monoxide
(exhaust gas) monitor in the July
1989 and May 1999 issues. We also
Also, it has been seven months
since I converted my Ford XC V8 to
the High Energy Ignition plus Hall
Effect sensor system. It has been the
best investment that I have made on
the car so far! The engine is extremely smooth and quiet on idling. I dare
say that the fuel economy would
compare to the latest engines found
in 4WD and bigger family wagons!
(A. P., via email).
• We do not believe these electronic rust preventers can work since
they do not involve a sacrificial
anode. In any event, they are usually
fitted by dealers to new cars (gives
them extra profit) and since new
cars take years to rust, few people
would complain that the rust preventer does not work.
Glad the HEI works well – it
certainly does make engines much
smoother.
published a breath tester in October
2000. We can supply these issues for
$7.70 each including postage.
BASIC is
still free
In “Ask Silicon Chip” for the July
2001 issue, you stated that GWBASIC/
QBASIC interpreters were supplied
free until DOS 6. In fact, Microsoft
freely supplies the MS-DOS 6.22 version of QBASIC, together with on-line
help, in the \other\oldmsdos folder
of the Win95 CD.
I suspect that the Win98 CD may
also include it. Another interesting
Win95B freebie is HwDiag.exe which
is found in the \other\misc\hwtrack
folder. (F. Z., via email).
• Oops, you’re right. On the Win98
CD, it’s in the \tools\oldmsdos folder.
The two files required are QBASIC.EXE
and QBASIC.HLP.
Updating the
multi-purpose charger
I previously built the original Fast
Multi-Purpose Battery Charger as described in the February & March 1998
issues of SILICON CHIP. I now want to
update it to your new design but I am
a bit confused about the winding of
the main switching inductor L1. In
your original design, you require 10
turns bifilar wound of 1mm copper
wire, thus a total of 20 turns of wire.
In your latest design, you call for
20 turns bifilar wound which, by my
interpretation of Fig.3 on p70 of the
July 2001 issue, would make a total of
40 turns. Which is the correct number
of turns to use? (B. H., New Town, Tas).
• You can leave the number of turns
on L1 as per the original version. (10
turns). The circuit will operate with
either winding setup.
Clifford the cricket
is mute
I am building Clifford the Cricket,
as described in the December 1994
issue. I have put all the components in
correctly and have also tried replacing
the IC and both transistors but the
circuit still refuses to work. The LEDs
light but the buzzer just provides a
low constant clicking sound. I have
checked the buzzer and it seems OK.
Can you suggest anything? (C. M.,
via email).
• The oscillator for the piezo buzzer
is possibly too fast for any chirping
sound to be heard. Try changing the
.047µF capacitor between pins 8 & 9
of IC1 to a larger value. A 0.22µF capacitor might be a good start. Also, the
flashing rate for the LEDs can be varied
by adjusting the 2.2µF capacitor value
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be
carried out according to the instructions in the articles. When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do
not accidentally come into contact with mains AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects
employing mains voltages or other high voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd
disclaims any liability for damages should anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of
SILICON CHIP magazine. Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any
liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims
any liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the Trade
Practices Act 1974 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are applicable.
100 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
More information on
the PIC Testbed
I have some questions on the PIC
Testbed published in the January
2001 issue. I know that I have successfully downloaded the program
(.asm file) to the testbed (16F84). I
assume that I need to set the jumper
on the testbed for the clock when
programming and I know that
the program was downloading to
the chip (by connecting the LEDs
when programming. By the way, if
the LEDs are left connected when
programming, the chip will not
program successfully). But I am
unsure as to how to set the program
in motion when it is downloaded.
Also, I have questions on the
COM port on the board. I tried to
use the COM port (built onto the
board) before realising that it was
nearly pointless doing so as it is not
supported by any of the software I
have tried so far and also because of
the differences in support protocol.
at pins 11 & 12 of IC1. A larger value
will slow down the rate. A smaller
value will speed it up.
Deep cycle vs auto
batteries
I’m under the impression that cartype 4WD starter batter
ies do not
like being drained of more than 20%
of their capacity. I think that they
where intended for starting only and
not storage. As I have a 4WD and no
extra battery, I thought a deep-cycle
battery might be better. That way, more
Notes & Errata
12/24 Hour Giant Clock, March 2001:
as published, in the 24-hour mode
the clock changes from 23.59.59 to
24.00.00. This is now changed to
the correct 24-hour transition from
23.59.59 to 00.00.00. The upgraded
software is called clock1.asm and
clock1.hex and is available on the
SILICON CHIP website.
DI Box, August 2001: the tip contact
and integral switch contact in the DC
jack socket on the circuit on page 14
are shown reversed; ie, the tip contact
www.siliconchip.com.au
(M. C., via email).
• The program should run (meaning the LEDs should chase) as soon
as you disconnect the programming
adapter cable and press the reset
button. From your description, we
assume you have selected the 4MHz
crystal as the clock source, which
is the correct option for the DEMO
& TESTBED programs.
We have recently updated the little DEMO & TESTBED programs, as
well as created a slightly modified
version that will work with the RC
oscillator.
Regarding the serial port, you’re
quite correct in your assumption
that you need to download a program to drive the port. A good
starting point might be a little
terminal program that receives
characters from the serial input line
and displays them on the LCD. You
will find numerous examples to get
you started on the ‘net. Check out
Microchip’s application notes first
at www.microchip.com
capacity can be used without damage
to the battery. I know that a deep cycle
battery would be more expensive. (G.
M., via email).
• As a general rule, all car and truck
batteries have a very poor life expectancy if they are frequently subject to
heavy discharge. In normal conditions,
the vehicle alternator takes all the
electrical load and so the battery does
little except for its starting role which
normally only causes a brief and very
shallow discharge. If you are having
electrical problems, the solution may
be to install a bigger alternator.
should go to switch S1 while the integral switch contact should go to the
battery negative. The wiring diagram
on page 16 is correct.
The parts list on page 19 does not
include VR5 which should be a 16mm
10kΩ linear potentiometer.
Also the testing instructions on page
19 do not tell how to adjust VR5. To
do so, connect a DMM across the bass
pot VR2 and adjust VR5 for zero DC
voltage.
This eliminates any DC current
through the bass control and stops it
from becoming noisy.
SC
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September 2001 101
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To run your classified ad, print it clearly in the space below or on a separate
sheet of paper, fill out the form & send it with your cheque or credit card details
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102 Silicon Chip
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(ALL PRICES INCLUDE GST)
Silvertone Electronics,
PO Box 580, Riverwood 2210.
Phone/Fax (02) 9533 3517.
www.silvertone.com.au
Need prototype PC boards?
We have the solutions – we print electronics!
Four-day turnaround, less if urgent; Artwork from your own
positive or file; Through hole plating; Prompt postal service; 29
years technical experience; Inexpensive; Superb quality.
Printed Electronics, 12A Aristoc Rd,
Glen Waverley, Vic 3150.
Phone: (03) 9545 3722; Fax: (03) 9545 3561
Call Mike Lynch and check us out!
We are the best for low cost, small runs.
G.S. & W.M. MILLAR
TECHNICAL SUPPORT SOLUTIONS
Electro-mechanical/Electronic repairs, rebuilds,
maintenance, calibrations etc.
Quality service at your site/s or in our workshop.
PH: 0416 278-775
only ! $119 / $151 Full DIY Plug-In to
TV / VCR 20 metre Cable, Plug Pack &
Camera www.allthings.com.au
DIGITAL OSCILLOSCOPE, USB, VHF
Receiver; temperature/voltage measurement via phone kits.
www.ar.com.au/~softmark
PIC PROGRAMMING COURSE. Learn
to write, debug and test code to a pro-
Buy Direct From Manufacturer
D.I.Y. PCB SUPPLIES
pilots, and weather enthusiasts. Other
models with barometric pressure, humidity, dew point, solar radiation, UV,
leaf wetness, etc. Just phone, fax or
write for our FREE catalogue and price
list. Solar Flair/Ecowatch phone: (03)
5968 4863; fax: (03) 5968 5810, PO
Box 18, Emerald, Vic., 3782. ACN 006
399 480.
Pre Sensitized Copper Clad to
make your own boards.
Developer, Carbide Drills & Mills
also manufacturer of Single &
double sided boards.
Comprehensive details at
acetronics.com.au
goto shop page
ACETRONICS PCBs 5/32 Seton Rd
Moorebank NSW 2170
02 9600 6832 Fax: 02 9600 6834
Mail: acetronics<at>acetronics.com.au
Credit cards welcome
Positions At Jaycar
We are often looking for enthusiastic staff
for positions in our retail stores and head
office at Silverwater in Sydney. A genuine
interest in electronics is a necessity. Phone
02 9741 8555 for current vacancies.
fessional level. First chapter free.
vladimir<at>u030.aone.net.au
BULLET CCTV Cameras from $97 /
$122 Mono / Colour
www.allthings.com.au
SPEAKER REPAIRS. New surrounds
and voice-coils. New and re-conditioned
continued next page
September 2001 103
DON’T MISS
THE ’BUS
Advertising Index
Acetronics..................................103
Altronics................................. 80-82
Allthings Sales & Services.102-104
Av-Comm Pty Ltd.......................103
Do you feel left behind by the latest
advances in computer technology? Don’t
miss the bus: get the ’bus!
Includes articles on troubleshooting your
PC, installing and setting up computer
networks, hard disk drive upgrades,
clean installing Windows 98, CPU
upgrades, a basic introduction to Linux
plus much more.
Dick Smith Electronics........... 20-23
Price: $12.50 (incl. GST) Order now by using the handy order form in this issue or
call (02) 9979 5644, 8.30-5.30 Mon-Fri with your credit card details.
Jaycar ................................... 49-56
Dominion Electronics.................IFC
Evatco..........................................87
Grantronics................................103
Harbuch Electronics....................48
Hy-Q International.......................35
Instant PCBs..............................103
Special subscription offer available only while stocks last.
speakers, boxes and kits. (03) 5986
1128.
DIY CCTV PAKS
4 Cameras & Switcher .................$354
4 COLOUR & Switcher ................$466
4 Cams & QUAD .........................$470
4 COLOUR & QUAD ....................$776
Time-Lapse 24 hr VCR only $599 with
CCTV Systems!
MORE at: www.allthings.com.au Fully
Plug-In DIY Paks with Cables & Power
Supplies * PC W98/W2000 Digital
Motion/Sound detection & activated
Video/Audio Recording systems.
Universal Programmer Clearance
Sale: Superseded model Xeltek SuperPro/L, operates from PC printer port,
programs 1000+ devices (40-pin max),
including EPROMs and EEPROMs to
8MB, many flash devices, PLDs and
MCUs (PICs, 8051 family, and many
more). Also tests TTL/CMOS/RAM.
Win95/98 and DOS s/w, free updates.
See device list at www.xeltek-cn.
com.$500 (incl. GST). Advanced
Solutions P/L, Ph: (02) 9872 1981,
dford1<at>bigpond.net.au
Multiplexers CCTV Full-Screen Full-Resolution Recording FOUR TIMES MORE
DATA than a Quad $599 / $919 Mono /
Colour www.allthings.com.au
RCS HAS MOVED to 41 Arlewis St,
Chester Hill 2162 and is now open, with
full production. Tel (02) 9738 0330; Fax
9738 0334. rcsradio<at>cia.com.au;
www.cia.com.au/rcsradio
104 Silicon Chip
VCR CCTV Controller use your home
VCR to Record Events from $30
www.allthings.com.au
PCBs MADE, ONE OR MANY. Low
prices, hobbyists welcome. Sesame
Electronics (02) 9586 4771.
sesame<at>internetezy.com.au; http://
members.tripod.com/~sesame_elec
CCTV Equipment * BLEMISH FREE
& LOW BLEMISH CCDs * up to 5
YEARS WARRANTY * OVERNIGHT
DELIVERY *
www.allthings.com.au
VIDEO amplifiers, Stabilisers, TBCs,
Converters, Mixers, etc. QUESTRONIX
(02) 9477 3596.
DOME CCTV Cameras from $53 / $77
Mono / Colour www.allthings.com.au
KIT ASSEMBLY
NEVILLE WALKER KIT ASSEMBLY
& REPAIR:
• Australia wide service
• Small production runs
• Specialist “one-off” applications
Phone Neville Walker (07) 3857 2752
Email flashdog<at>optusnet.com.au
WANTED
PERSON WITH EXPERIENCE/APTITUDE to fault find & repair PCBs
– without diagrams. GENEROUS PKG
NEG. Tel John<at>AER (03) 9482 4958
or 0415 305 470.
JED Microprocessors.............35,59
Kalex..........................................101
Meterman....................................99
MicroZed Computers...................35
Oatley Electronics......................102
PolyKom......................................45
Printed Electronics.................... 103
Questronix...........................35, 103
RCS Radio.................................104
RF Probes...................................35
RobotOz......................................35
Rola Australia............................103
R.T.N............................................19
Silicon Chip Back Issues....... 96-97
Silicon Chip Bookshop........... 90-91
SC EFI Tech Special....................44
SC Electronics Testbench..........IBC
SC Computer Omnibus...............95
Silicon Chip Subscriptions...........83
Silvertone Electronics................103
Smart Fastchargers...................101
Solar Flair/Ecowatch..................102
Technical Support Solutions......103
VAF Research...................35, OBC
Wiltronics...................5,35,47,61,69
_____________________________
PC Boards
Printed circuit boards for SILICON
CHIP projects are made by:
• RCS Radio Pty Ltd. Phone (02)
9738 0330. Fax (02) 9738 0334.
www.siliconchip.com.au
www.siliconchip.com.au
September 2001 105
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