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To understand why $6,843 is a fair price
to pay for VAF kit speakers, read 580 words
from a violinist who can’t use a screwdriver.
The following is an excerpt from a review which appeared in Audio
Video Lifestyle Consumer Guide ‘99 by Sian O’Neale.
“Philip Vafiadis is the creative talent behind the brand
and his aim with VAF Research is to market kit loudspeakers of
uncompromising quality at the serious end of the hi-fi market.
The VAF range is priced from $312 a pair right up
to $8,863 a pair*, so we’re talking serious money here for
serious equipment.
We at AVL magazine have been particularly impressed
with DC-X series.
These kit loudspeakers are not the standard packages
from consumer electronics stores. In fact, you won’t find
these products in any store. The company prefers to cut out
the middle-men and save buyers money, so every product is
available factory-direct.
The VAF Signature series includes the Signature
I-66 and I-91 loudspeakers. Taking delivery of the 120kg
I-66 floorstanding speakers is something of an experience;
I have never seen such an imposing crate for a pair of
loudspeakers before. Fortunately my brother Crispin is
capable with the screwdriver and we took out the massive
I-66s. You will need quite a bit of muscle and help to unpack
these speakers and get them where you want them. The
engineering and attention to finish that has gone into these
fully assembled VAF Research I-66s is simply awesome.
These elegant but powerful looking loudspeakers come
with removable velcro attached grilles in a 3-way design; a
210mm hard paper bass driver with solid copper phase plugs
and a 25mm double chamber sonotex dome tweeter with a
pure silver wire voice coil. Turn the speakers around and you
have very high quality gold plated binding posts which allow
for bi-wiring and tri-wiring.
The same meticulous attention to detail and build
quality also goes into the smaller I-91 models, three of which
are presented as left and right rear surrounds and a centre
channel speaker for home theatre use (which has a customdesigned grille for a centre channel speaker). But the I-91
loudspeakers have been designed to also perform as high quality
studio monitors with the same superb sound as the I-66s.
The speakers were designed to be used close to a rear
wall and that’s how customers use them, ideally 15cm-40cm
from the nearest wall. But I think the speakers sound better
when they can breathe more easily. Find the right position
for the room and you will be richly rewarded.
The big VAFs deliver a stunning soundstage which is
wonderfully insightful and involving. Large scale orchestral
works have a level of depth and accuracy that only the best
loudspeakers can manage.
As a violinist, I am often left unimpressed with the
sound of the violin through so many loudspeakers (even
high-end models), but here the presentation is accurate and
engrossing. Instrument separation between different
members of the orchestra is faultless.
This is particularly obvious when listening to Hans
Zimmer’s evocative soundtrack for The Thin Red Line in which
quiet, gentle music provides so much power and atmosphere.
As a system for home theatre, together with the smaller
satellite I-91s, VAF has assembled an incredible system. Bass
extension from the I-66s is awesome; deep and thrilling,
which is ideal for action
blockbusters such as Speed,
Twister or Titanic (you don’t
just watch the ship sink - you
feel it through the floorboards).
The centre channel speaker
locks dialogue firmly into place
and steers the sound with
maximum impact; dialogue in
Speed comes across as frantic as
the driving. Full marks.”
For the entire transcript of this review or information on our 14 models contact VAF Research and ask for
your copy of “What the Critics Say”. Free call 1800 818 882. Email vaf<at>vaf.com.au or surf www.vaf.com.au
VAF Research 52-54 North Terrace, Kent Town, South Australia 5067
Built by us. Sold by us.
* Figures amended to reflect current pricing.
kwp!VAF0003
Contents
www.siliconchip.com.au
Vol.15, No.2; February 2002
FEATURES
6 Electronic Braking Control In Cars
You will no longer have direct control over your car’s brakes. This new braking
system even dries out the brakes if they get wet – by Julian Edgar
12 Steel Mini Mills: A Recycling Success Story
There’s a lot of interesting technology inside a steel mini mill. Here’s a look
at how they work – by Bob Young
PROJECTS TO BUILD
22 10-Channel IR Remote Control Receiver
It works with commercial IR remote transmitters and is a snack to build. The
channels can be wired for momentary or toggle operation – by John Clarke
30 A 2.4GHz High-Power Audio-Video Link
10-Channel IR Remote
Control Receiver –
Page 22.
Forget about flea-power A-V links. This one puts out about 0.5W for a range
of about 200 metres using simple “whip” antennas – by Ross Tester
54 Assemble Your Own 2-Way Tower Speakers
These tower speakers from VAF Research come with fully assembled cabinets. You install the drivers and some hardware – by Leo Simpson
60 Touch And/Or Remote-Controlled Light Dimmer; Pt.2
Completing the construction and building the touchplate and pushbutton
dimmer extensions – by John Clarke
66 4-Way Event/Race Anything Timer
It’s based on a PIC microcontroller and can time up to four separate events.
You can even get infrared sensors to start & stop the timing – by Ross Tester
2.4GHz High-Power Audio-Video
Link – Page 30.
COMPUTERS
76 Look Ma – No Keyboard
Want to boot a PC without a keyboard, regardless of BIOS settings? Here’s a
dummy keyboard you can hide inside the system case – by Greg Swain
SPECIAL COLUMNS
38 Serviceman’s Log
Accidents do happen – by the TV Serviceman
80 Vintage Radio
The Diason P.P. 32/6 DC receiver – by Rodney Champness
DEPARTMENTS
2
3
34
42
72
Publisher’s Letter
Mailbag
Circuit Notebook
Subscriptions Form
Product Showcase
www.siliconchip.com.au
90
93
94
96
Ask Silicon Chip
Notes & Errata
Market Centre
Advertising Index
4-Way Event/Race Anything
Timer With LCD – Page 66.
Dummy Keyboard For PCs –
Page 76.
February 2002 1
PUBLISHER’S LETTER
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Production Manager
Greg Swain, B.Sc.(Hons.)
Technical Staff
John Clarke, B.E.(Elec.)
Ross Tester
Jim Rowe, B.A., B.Sc, VK2ZLO
Rick Walters
Reader Services
Ann Jenkinson
Advertising Enquiries
David Polkinghorne
Phone (02) 9979 5644
Fax (02) 9979 6503
Regular Contributors
Brendan Akhurst
Rodney Champness, VK3UG
Julian Edgar, Dip.T.(Sec.), B.Ed
Mike Sheriff, B.Sc, VK2YFK
Philip Watson, MIREE, VK2ZPW
Bob Young
SILICON CHIP is published 12 times
a year by Silicon Chip Publications
Pty Ltd. ACN 003 205 490. ABN 49
003 205 490 All material copyright
©. No part of this publication may
be reproduced without the written
consent of the publisher.
Printing: Hannanprint, Alexandria,
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Distribution: Network Distribution
Company.
Subscription rates: $69.50 per
year in Australia. For overseas
rates, see the subscription page in
this issue.
Editorial & advertising offices:
Unit 8, 101 Darley St, Mona Vale,
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139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097.
Phone (02) 9979 5644.
Fax (02) 9979 6503.
E-mail: silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
Electronic braking in
cars: is it a good idea?
One of the feature stories this month is about
the introduction of electronic braking in cars,
specifically in the new Mercedes SL class
convertible. The story is interesting in that it
represents an integration of several braking and
traction control systems in cars. I have always felt
that ABS (anti-skid braking system) and normal
power boosters should be integrated rather than
being two separate systems. Such an integrated
system would be cheaper and more compact.
But now this Bosch system takes the integration
concept much further, as described on page 6 of this issue.
However, while the technology is very interesting, I do have misgivings
about it and they relate to the special features or modes that have been
grafted onto the system. For example, there is the smooth stop system and
the brake drying function. While these may be highly effective, is there not
a risk that someone who became used to driving such a car would no longer
be safe when they stepped into a lesser equipped vehicle?
Would they no longer be capable of braking to a smooth stop or be quite
dangerous in wet weather, being unaware that a normal car’s brakes don’t
work when they are wet? And would they be more likely to run into the car
in front because they had become used to their electronic guardian angel
compensating for the dangerous habit of “tail-gating”?
This is quite a different situation from the comparison of an ABS-equipped
car with one with ordinary brakes. ABS only comes into operation during
emergency braking and at other times, an ABS-equipped car brakes exactly
the same as any other disc-braked car.
In more general terms, there are huge numbers of drivers today who
have only ever driven automatic cars and would be unable to drive a car
with a manual gearbox. Of course, most people accept that limitation and
are happy to only drive cars with automatic transmission. But braking is
more basic; if you can’t stop safely when you jump into another car, there
is a big problem.
I suppose that this is the drawback of any new automotive technology its introduction will effectively reduce driving skills while still giving an
overall improvement in safety and driving comfort.
Having said that, I still think that this new Mercedes car has too many
braking frills and that these are not likely to filter down to less expensive
cars as electronic braking becomes more widespread.
It’s interesting that it still relies on hydraulic brake fluid though, isn’t it?
Apparently, a “pure” electric braking system is not yet on the cards.
Leo Simpson
ISSN 1030-2662
* Recommended and maximum price only.
2 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
MAILBAG
Electronics Australia copyright
I was delighted to hear that Silicon
Chip Publications has purchased
“Electronics Australia” magazine. Like
you, I was saddened to see it cease
publication in 2001.
Please accept my best wishes on
behalf of all of us at Jaycar Electronics.
I look forward to resuming my monthly
EA read!
Gary Johnston,
Jaycar Electronics,
Silverwater, NSW.
More on DVD
picture quality
I have read with interest some of
the recent correspondence in Mailbag
with regard to the perceived lack of
quality provided by the DVD format
and hope that this note will help to
clear up matters for the correspondents. I would first direct them to the
DVD FAQ at:
www.dvddemystified.com/dvdfaq.
html
Simon Kareh in the September
2001 edition of Silicon Chip raises
two issues:
(1) The fact that Titanic when shown
in full screen was not missing any of
the picture compared to widescreen
and in fact had more picture information.
The reason that Titanic (and some
other films) have more picture when
shown in full screen 4:3 mode is
because of the way it was originally
shot on film. Not all films are like this.
Directors generally (although not all of
them) shoot the film for a rectangular
cinema screen (you may have seen
footage of a film being shot with the
director looking at a video monitor
display
ing a 4:3 image but with a
white rectangular “cinema screen”
shaped marking across the middle of
the screen).
Typically crew members, boom
microphones, etc, that appear outside
the rectangle are ignored, because the
director knows that the film will be
matted for the rectangular shape of a
cinema screen. Some directors shoot
with release-to-video in mind as well,
so while the shot is composed for the
rectangular screen, the director makes
sure that there is nothing untoward in
the frame outside the rectangle.
Widescreen does not automatically
mean you are getting more picture
(although you are getting the picture
the way it was intended) just as full
screen does not automatically mean
you are getting more picture.
(2) The issue of lines of resolution
and NTSC/PAL differences is the other
topic. The 500-line video resolution
referred to in regard to DVD players is
an old analog measurement of vertical
black and white lines resolvable, not
the horizontal scan lines. The DVD
FAQ gives a full explanation but basically vertical lines are not the same
as horizontal (scan) lines.
The 480 (visible) and 576 (visible)
scan line NTSC/PAL difference still
applies. Think of vertical lines as similar to a computer monitor’s horizontal
resolution (the 800 in 800 x 600). A
DVD does approximately 500, while
VHS does approximately 230. A DVDs
actual on disc resolution is 720 pixels
wide by the PAL or NTSC number of
scan lines.
With regard as to which is better,
the NTSC disc with its higher frame
rate or the PAL disc with its more
scan lines, that is a whole separate
debate that comes down to personal
preference.
Brad Sheargold in the October 2001
issue of Silicon Chip questions the
quality of DVD after seeing a demonstration on a friend’s plasma display.
While it is true that there are quite
a number of poorly encoded DVD’s
around, I would suggest that the
problem Mr Sheargold was observing
might have been to do with the nature
of plasma display devices, or that particular devices calibration, than with
any inherent flaw in the DVD format
as a whole.
From my understanding, plasma
devices currently are not very good
at producing dark colours. They also
tend to have a black that is not true
black, rather a grey or brown (although
both these characteristics are improv-
PARALLAX BS2-IC BASIC STAMP $112.00 INC GST
WE STOCK THE COMPLETE DEVELOPMENT SYSTEM
www.siliconchip.com.au
February 2002 3
ing all the time). These characteristics
are artefacts introduced by the display
device itself and will serve to highlight
any MPEG artefacts that may have been
present on the disk, although generally
artefacts seen are caused by display
devices that have not been calibrated
properly, have their “sharpness” control turned up, etc.
Another possibility is that the
artefacts Mr Sheargold saw were introduced by some kind of low quality
scalar or line doubler/quadrupler or,
the need for such a device. (Incidentally, the highest resolution Fujitsu
plasma device I saw after a brief look
at the Fujitsu website was capable of
displaying 1024 x 1024, not 1 million
x 1 million as his understandably
enthusiastic friend told him).
The bottom line is that a bad DVD
picture is not always the DVD’s fault.
I would suggest Mr Sheargold see if
he can view those discs on a different
display device and see if he notices
the same problems.
I watch DVD’s on my own modest
CRT, and regularly see them on a
friend’s projector system, an I can
honestly say that the DVD on the
projector is the best picture quality
I have seen outside of a cinema (and
even inside many of them!).
In response to John Richardson form
his letter in the October 2001 Silicon
Chip, I understand that the ABC has
been having some teething problems
with their new equipment (I have also
noticed incorrect aspect ratios that
suddenly change, etc).
Mr Richardson’s points about the
lack of some potential features being
utilised have some validity, apart
from the quick access - I can jump to
chapter stops in DVDs very quickly
(granted you do have to sit through
the copyright screens on first loading
some discs, but then you have to fast
forward through them and promos
on VHS tapes, so I doubt VHS is any
quicker). I suppose it depends on what
you define as “quick access”.
In regards to the sound quality of
DVD, unless you have a Dolby Digital
and/or DTS capable sound system
then you are only hearing the lowest
quality sound that DVD can provide. I
expect the DVD consortium will take
it as a compliment that the lowest of
the DVD is equal to the best of the
4 Silicon Chip
VHS.
Sam Yates,
via email.
AVR ISP
programmer software
I have some further information on
the AVR ISP Programming Adapter
featured in the October 2001 issue.
The software mentioned in the
article (“AVR ISP”, from Atmel) only
works with Windows 95, 98 and Me
(not NT4 or 2000). It also doesn’t
support some of the latest AVR micro
controllers.
I have discovered another software
package that addresses the above issues and should be compatible with
the hardware as presented. It is called
PonyProg (of all things) and is available for free download from http://
www.lancos.com
To configure PonyProg to work with
the programming adapter, set it up for
the “AVR ISP (STK200/300) parallel
port interface” as described in the
included documentation.
As a bonus, PonyProg should
also work with the PIC Programmer
and Testbed described in January
2001 (use the “JDM” programmer
settings).
Peter Smith,
Narraweena, NSW.
In favour of backups
I always find your articles on computers and software interesting and
quite useful but your frequent suggestion to ‘wipe’ your hard disk and start
from scratch quite upsets me!
I can’t imagine how you have
avoided the serious trap in doing this.
Reinstalling all your software is not a
simple task, particularly if you have
commercial software which you have
paid good money for and upgraded
frequently. Many programs require
the previous version to be on the system before they will install the latest
upgrade.
Just the thought of reinstalling all
the versions is bad enough however I
am using one program that started life
on 5.25-inch floppy disks! I do have
a 5.25-inch drive but it is years since
I used it and the disks are unlikely to
be readable even if I could find them.
Even the 3.5-inch drive is used so
rarely it generally needs kicking to
make it behave and I have a couple
of programs that started life on them.
Please, in future, place a warning
when you give this advice. For many
people it may be OK but for some of us
– well, it would be disastrous. Instead,
I do wish you would suggest people
make backups regularly. These days
when most (if not all) of your readers
probably have CD burners, backing up
all the important parts of a hard disk
system is not difficult.
I use an old system for backups. The
hard disk is split into three partitions
(I used to use two disks). The ‘C’ drive
has the system and all programs. I do a
backup of this when it is needed, after
installing new software. The ‘D’ drive
has all the important data; backup of
that is daily if not more frequently.
The ‘E’ drive is for ‘junk’!
For added safety, a copy of the ‘D’
drive exists on two other computers. If
you think that maybe I don’t trust computers, well I don’t. After 35 years of
experience I have good reason not to .
Geoff Syme,
via email.
VideoSCope
magnification
I have built, with slight modification, the excellent VideoScope project
published in the October 2001 issue.
My approach differed in that I used a
“syringe” type approach with the camera (Dick Smith Electronics L-5873)
being on the end of the plunger which
is 760mm long. I used a 50mm F1.2
lens from a Minolta SRT101 camera.
I am able to reproduce magnification
of an EPROM similar to that shown
in your article and when viewing a
ruler I can get the markings of 1mm to
appear full screen width on my 34cm
TV (28.5cm horizontal). I intend to
try the concept in my microscope and
telescope as well.
My question is how do I determine
the magnification I have achieved?
One would think that if 1mm is shown
over the width of 28.5cm then I have
magnified the image by 285 but I question this as moving to a different, larger
TV the magnification would increase
just as the screen size increases.
I am interested in how the authors
determined their shot of a silk screen
was enlarged by a factor about 3200.
I think that this an excellent prowww.siliconchip.com.au
ject. It was cheap for me as I had all
the components, yet extremely practical. I can now show my 3-year old
granddaughter things she would have
difficulty seeing with my microscope.
Ken Fox,
Vermont South, Vic.
Comment: the effective magnification
does depend on screen size. If you
have a bigger screen, you get a bigger
image. As far as the figure of 3200 is
concerned, perhaps the image was
taken with a close-up lens.
Big acceptance of
electronic equipment
In your December 2001 issue you
published my offer to pass on the
electronic parts & instruments which
I had accumulated ‘over life”. The
response was amazing, exceeding my
wildest expectations.
Unfortunately, because I was uncertain if there would be any interest,
when an ‘early bird’ appeared on
Tuesday morning, November 27th, and
offered to take everything, I accepted,
in case I got no more interest.
As a result, I have had to refuse
many writers, many of whom I would
have liked to satisfy. So, I apologise
to all those who, though quick off the
mark, were too slow.
I hope I have written to all who
wrote to me. If I missed anyone, please
accept my oversight. And, to anyone
who has not written but sees the offer,
it is too late!
Pamela & Ewart Jones,
Coromandel Valley, SA.
Macrovision solution
I have a Macrovision solution that is
so simple I am surprised no one else
has thought of it. What you need is a
PC with a capture card and a TV-OUT
video card. What I use is a Prolink
Play TV Pro Video capture kit and a
TNT2 Video card with TV-OUT. The
capture card supports watching TV
in full-screen mode on the computer.
What I do is Play video 1 onto the
PC and have my capture program at
full-screen and have the TV-OUT card
going to video 2. This not only avoids
the Macrovision but removes it totally
from the copy.
There is also no generation loss
because the video stream re-encoded
in the computer so you have a copy
www.siliconchip.com.au
of the same quality of the original.
I have tried this on about 15 Macrovision-protected tapes without a
problem.
Lindsay Harvey,
via email.
The Tiger
comes to
Australia
Clarification of
DVD resolution
Some recent letters have suggested
that DVD pictures are considerably
better than VCR pictures because of the
poor resolution of the latter. In particular, they have spoken of the little more
than 200 lines of resolution provided
by VCR, with one letter contrasting
this with DVD’s 576 lines.
This requires clarification. Both
DVD and VCR produce the same vertical resolution. Nominally 625 lines,
some of these lines are used during
the vertical blanking intervals (during
which the electron beam returns from
the bottom of the screen to the top). For
PAL, the number of displayed lines
was traditionally 585. For DVD, 576
lines was settled upon. The difference
is insignificant (most displays lose
several lines through overscan at both
the top and the bottom).
This 580-ish horizontal lines spread
over the vertical dimension is the
same whether the picture is from VCR,
broadcast or DVD (assuming a full
screen DVD picture).
The resolution sometimes specified
for VCRs is often stated as ‘200 lines’
or maybe a little more. Where does
this come from? This is not the vertical resolution at all but the horizontal
resolution. Rather than the pixels
that have been talked about most
commonly with the advent of computers, the resolution of TV pictures
was traditionally specified in terms
of the number of vertical lines that
could be discerned across the width
of the display. This is where the ‘200’
comes from.
By contrast, DVD players are typically capable of between 500 and 540.
Note that the picture on a PAL DVD is
actually encoded as a 720 pixel wide
by 576 pixel high image, so hardware
DVD players lose around 17% of the
horizontal resolution during the conversion from a digital picture to an
analog PAL signal.
Stephen Dawson,
Gilmore, ACT.
The BASIC, Tiny and Economy
Tigers are sold in Australia by
JED, with W98/NT software and
local single board systems.
Tigers are modules running true compiled multitasking BASIC in a 16/32 bit core, with typically
512K bytes of FLASH (program and data)
memory and 32/128/512 K bytes of RAM. The
Tiny Tiger has four, 10 bit analog ins, lots of
2
digital I/O, two UARTs, SPI, I C, 1-wire, RTC and
has low cost W98/NT compile, debug and
download software.
JED makes four Australian boards with up to 64
screw-terminal I/O, more UARTs & LCD/keyboard support. See JED's www site for data.
TIG505 Single Board
Computer
The TIG505 is
an Australian
SBC using the
TCN1/4 or
TCN4/4 Tiger
processor with
512K FLASH
and 128/512K RAM. It has 50 I/O lines, 2
RS232/485 ports, SPI, RTC, LCD, 4 ADC, 4 (opt.)
DAC, and DataFLASH memory expansion.
Various Xilinx FPGAs can add 3x 32bit quad shaft
encoder, X10 or counter/timer functions. See
www site for data.
$330 PC-PROM Programmer
This programmer plugs into a PC printer port and
reads, writes and edits any 28 or 32-pin PROM.
Comes with plug-pack, cable and software.
Also available is a multi-PROM UV eraser with
timer, and a 32/32 PLCC converter.
JED Microprocessors Pty Ltd
173 Boronia Rd, Boronia, Victoria, 3155
Ph. 03 9762 3588, Fax 03 9762 5499
www.jedmicro.com.au
February 2002 5
You will no longer have direct control
over your car’s brakes
The recently released Mercedes SL-Class
is fitted with Sensotronic Brake Control as
standard – the first car in the world with
the system. (DaimlerChrysler).
Electronic Braking
Control in Cars
Braking systems in cars are set for big changes with this new
Bosch system which has just been introduced to Mercedes Benz
cars. Incorporating the best of ABS, ESP and traction control,
the new braking system will even dry out the brakes after they
have been wet and enable a smooth stop every time, without any
dip in the car’s bonnet as you come to a complete stop.
By JULIAN EDGAR
6 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
A
PART FROM THE introduction
of ABS (anti-skid braking
systems), braking systems in
cars have changed little in over 50
years. As has been the case throughout this last half-century, all current
systems use an hydraulic master
cylinder which applies pressure in
proportion to force on the brake pedal.
The pressure in the brake lines causes
movement of the pistons in the slave
cylinders located in each wheel calliper, in turn applying the brake pads
to the discs (or shoes to the drums, in
older systems).
A vacuum brake booster is also fitted
to all cars to reduce the force required
on the brake pedal. And ABS? – it
allows the automatic modulation of
fluid pressure in the slave cylinders
of individual wheel brakes, to prevent
wheel lock-up.
Now, in the Bosch Sensotronic
Brake Control (SBC) system, the
control system becomes electronic.
Further, the control logic is quite
different to a traditional braking
system, as SBC integrates a variety
of other car control systems into the
one architecture.
SBC represents a revolution in automotive braking – and it’s just been
released in the SL-Class Mercedes
production model.
Integrating systems
SBC needs to be considered not as
a standalone braking system but in
the context of a number of other car
drive-line control systems.
ABS (anti-skid braking) is now
common on modern cars but ESP
(electronic stability program) is much
rarer. ESP uses the input of a vehicle
yaw sensor, wheel speed sensors and
a steering angle sensor to determine
whether the vehicle is following the
path requested by the driver. If the
electronic system detects that, for
example, the car is running wide in
the corner (ie, it is under-steering),
the ESP system will brake the inside
rear wheel, pulling the nose of the
car around.
Similar one-wheel braking strategies
can be used to control oversteer (the
rear of the car running wide).
It is important to note that ESP
is not the same as traction control.
Traction control limits the spinning of
the powered wheels, usually by reduc-ing engine torque (although also
occasionally by braking the slipping
www.siliconchip.com.au
The components of a Sensotronic Brake Control system include wheel speed
sensors, a steering angle sensor, acceleration sensor, electronic control unit and
hydraulic control unit. (DaimlerChrysler).
wheel). On the other hand, ESP can
work very effectively when no throttle
at all is being applied. For example,
a driver who enters a corner too fast,
then realises his error and lifts the
throttle sharply, can cause a power-off
oversteer slide – the car attempting
to spin.
In this situation, ESP can brake the
outside front wheel, preventing the
incipient spin occurring. In the same
situation, a traction control system is
powerless.
Another car system that is relevant
to the braking system is Adaptive
Cruise Control. This uses radar to
maintain a preset distance to the car
in front – an approach that needs
to have control over the brakes in
addition to being able to modulate
the throttle.
Finally, many luxury cars use Brake
Assist technology, where if the system
detects that the driver has braked very
forcefully, the brakes are applied at
maximum power – even if the driver
reduces braking pressure a little. This
approach was developed when testing
of drivers in real on-road situations
showed that when confronted with
Fig.1: this graph shows the penetration of Electronic Stability Program systems
in various automotive markets. Bosch has produced over three million ESP
systems and expects Sensotronic braking to follow a similar growth pattern over
the next five years. (Bosch).
February 2002 7
1: Hydraulic unit with
SBC control unit.
2: Fuses.
3: Actuation unit.
4: Speed sensor
5: Hydraulic line.
Fig.2: the distribution of the Sensotronic Brake Control components in the SL
Mercedes. (DaimlerChrysler)
the need for an emergency stop, many
simply didn’t push hard enough, and
didn’t keep pushing hard enough, on
the pedal.
So anti-lock braking, brake assist,
electronic stability program, traction
control and adaptive cruise control
are, to a greater or lesser extent, currently standalone systems that could
be better integrated with the braking
system.
And as you may have now guessed,
SBC does just that.
SBC architecture
SBC still uses hydraulic fluid, a
master cylinder and wheel slave cylinders – electromagnetic operation of
the brake pads does not occur. While
technically, electromagnetic actuation of brake pads is feasible (and is
currently used in electrically-braked
trailers), the retention of an hydraulic
system allows for fail-safe operation
8 Silicon Chip
of the front brakes in the case of electronic failure.
In SBC, fluid pressure is generated
not by the driver’s foot movement and
the brake booster operation but by a
piston pump driven by an electric
motor. This supplies brake fluid at a
pressure of 140-160 Bar (2000 - 2350
psi) to a high-pressure gas diaphragm
accumulator. This stored pressure is
sufficient for several braking events,
allowing full braking pressure to be
applied a number of times, even when
the engine is switched off.
When the brakes are activated – either by the driver, Electronic Stability
Program, Traction Control or Intelligent Cruise Control – the electronic
control unit calculates the desired
target brake pressures on a wheel-bywheel basis. Remember, during ESP
operation it’s likely that only single
wheels will be braked – although of
course in normal, straight-line, low
6: Box for control units
with ESP.
7: Yaw angle sensor.
deceleration braking events, all four
wheels are retarded.
The interface with the driver is by
means of the brake hydraulic actuation unit. This comprises a special
tandem master cylinder which uses
a simulator to provide normal pedal
feedback. However, the important part
of this mechanism is the pedal travel
sensor, which determines both how
fast and over what distance the brake
pedal is being moved. During normal
braking, the brake pedal is completely
disconnected from the hydraulics of
the system – it is simply an input into
the electronic control unit to indicate
the degree of braking requested by
the driver.
Only if a major fault or power failure
occurs does the brake pedal actuate an
hydraulic circuit.
In addition to the brake pedal travel
sensor, the electronic control unit also
receives data on steering wheel angle,
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Fig.3: the Sensotronic
Brake Control system.
An electric motor operates a piston pump that
pressurises an accumulator. Fluid from the accumulator then operates
individual brake cylinders as required. Except
in emergency fail-safe
operation, the brake
pedal is not connected
to the hydraulic system.
(Bosch).
individual wheel speeds, the selected
gear and lateral (ie, sideways) acceleration. The latter is used to detect
whether the car is cornering – if it is,
then the braking bias is adjusted laterally, with the outside wheels braked
more heavily than those on the inside
of the corner.
This reduces the likelihood of ESP
needing to intervene during emergency braking manoeuvres.
prevents the car rolling backward on
a hill and simplifies the drive-away
process. The function is activated by
quickly and firmly pressing down the
brake pedal when the car is stationary.
The brake effect is automatically cancelled the next time pressure is applied
to the accelerator pedal.
• ‘ACC Stop & Go’ is an upgrade of the
adaptive cruise control function that
is applicable for stop-and-go traffic or
city driving. If the vehicle ahead stops,
SBC brakes the vehicle to a standstill.
If the driver ahead accelerates, the
car drives away automatically and
follows.
Safety features of SBC include:
• ‘Dry Brake Function’, where on
Advantages
Bosch, the inventor of the system,
believes that SBC will penetrate the
luxury car market quickly, then filter
down to cheaper cars in the way that
ABS and more recently, ESP has. But
what are the advantages to the driver
of such a braking system?
Says Gunther Plapp, Vice President
of Bosch’s ABS and Brakes Division,
“The crucial performance feature of
the electro-hydraulic brake SBC is that
it raises braking comfort”.
A number of comfort and convenience features can be integrated into
the system. These include:
• The ‘Soft-Stop-Function’, which
provides for a soft and smooth stop
during normal braking.
• A ‘Traffic Jam Assistant’, which
brakes the vehicle with pre-defined
deceleration when the driver removes
his or her foot from the accelerator
pedal. On the Mercedes SL-Class, this
mode is engaged by using the cruise
control stalk when the car is stationary.
• The ‘Drive-Away Assistant’, which
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The Sensotronic Brake Control master cylinder lacks a brake booster. In addition, the ‘hydraulic fluid displacement’ function of the brake pedal occurs only
in an emergency, retarding just the front wheels. (Bosch).
February 2002 9
Previous Model With Conventional
Braking Technology
New SL-Class With Sensotronic
Brake Control
Fig.4: Sensotronic Brake Control allows the braking force to be altered laterally,
giving better stability when braking heavily while cornering. This reduces the
likelihood of Stability Control needing to operate in these situations. (DaimlerChrysler).
wet roads the SBC carries out regular
short and weak brake applications to
wipe the water film off the brake discs.
Switching on the windscreen wipers
activates this function.
• Reduced stopping distances. This
is possible because the system can be
configured to pre-fill the brake circuits
if a sudden lift of the accelerator pedal
is detected.
10 Silicon Chip
•
The vibration of the brake pedal that
normally occurs during ABS operation
is not present with SBC. DaimlerChrysler driving simulator research
shows that this absence is not just a
comfort advantage but also has safety
implications – almost two-thirds of
tested people are startled when ABS
pedal pulsation occurs. A proportion
of these people do not maintain appro-
priate brake pedal pressure when this
happens and some even take their foot
off the pedal!
•
Reduced requirement for Stability
Control, because braking force can be
varied laterally during cornering.
The future
SBC is currently available only on
one very expensive car – the Mercedes
SL. However by 2005, Bosch expects
that lower cost SBC systems will be
available for mass fitting to a wide
SC
range of vehicles.
www.siliconchip.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
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Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
info<at>amn.org.au
STEP ONE
Scrap steel is delivered by truck and
tipped into the mill’s scrap pit which
has a capacity of 18,000 tonnes – carefully divided into four grades held in
separate bays. That’s enough to feed
the mill for two weeks.
STEP TWO
According to the demands of the furnace production schedule, the various
grades are loaded into scrap buckets
for transfer by rail trolley into the
melt shop.
These days, a significant proportion of the
steel produced in the USA and Australia
comes from Mini Mills. These use an electric
arc furnace to melt down scrap steel, thereby
saving a considerable amount of energy which
would otherwise be required to make steel
from iron ore. In this article, we will look at
what constitutes a mini mill and visit the mini
mill at Rooty Hill in Sydney.
STEP THREE
In the melt shop, a crane lifts the
scrap bucket and empties its 80 tonne
load into the opened arc furnace. The
melting and refining stages are conducted at 1600°C.
As the scrap is melted by the electric
arcs, fluxes are added to form a slag
on top of the molten steel. Oxygen is
then injected by lance through the
slag, into the molten steel. The resulting chemical reactions cause the slag
to absorb most of the impurities from
the steel.
Those impurities that are not transferred to the slag are exhausted as
fumes for cooling and collecting via
the mill’s fabric filter bag system.
By BOB YOUNG
Steel Mini Mills: a
recycling success story
T
HERE ARE SEVERAL mini
mills in Australia and quite a
few in the USA and they produce a considerable amount of steel
from what is essentially quite a small
plant. So what is a mini mill?
A mini mill is a steel production
facility that uses an electric arc furnace
to melt the scrap steel. In contrast, the
12 Silicon Chip
traditional Integrated Steel mill has
blast furnaces or basic oxygen furnaces
using iron ore and coke as the basic
ingredients with some scrap thrown
in. Although some integrated mills
have electric arc furnaces for specific
purposes, the arc furnace is the key
component of a mini mill.
Over the past 20 to 30 years, there
has been substantial growth in mini
mills. In 1970, mini mills accounted
for less than 10% of US steel production. These early mills typically produced between 100,000 and 300,000
tonnes per annum, with the number
of grades of steel and product types
kept to a minimum. In 2001, mini
mills produced nearly half of the
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STEP FOUR
When the steel has reached the required temperature and chemistry it
is tapped into a ladle for transfer to
the ladle furnace area.
In the ladle furnace there is more
refining to be done – this time through
selective addition of alloys. In the
ladle, the temperature of the molten
steel is increased and maintained by
electric arcs mounted in the ladle
furnace cover.
steel shipped by United States mills.
Nor is it stopping there. Mini mills
are no longer mini, with production
capacities now approaching 1,000,000
- 2,500,000 tonnes per annum while
still using a single but now quite large
arc furnace. In addition, the list of
grades of steel produced and product
types has increased considerably.
North American carbon steel mini-mills continue to be among the most
competitive steel makers in the world.
Some idea of the growth in productivity can be obtained from the following
figures. In 1983, integrated mills were
producing about 200 tonnes of steel
per employee, rising to approximately
700 tonnes in 1996. The latest mini
mills are claiming 4,000 tonnes per
employee.
Although arc furnaces use large
amounts of electric energy to heat the
steel scrap, there is a significant saving
on raw materials. For every tonne of
steel recycled, there are 1.25 tonnes of
www.siliconchip.com.au
STEP FIVE
When the required alloys have been
added and exact specifications have
been reached, the molten steel is taken
to the cast shop where it is poured into a
tundish from where it flows into a series
of water-cooled moulds to form continuously cast billets.
The 127mm square partially solidified
billet strands are further cooled by direct
water spray in a secondary cooling zone.
While they are still hot, however, they are
cut into 12-metre lengths by automatic
hydraulic shears.
The billets are then air-cooled before being carried by overhead cranes fitted with
electromagnets into the outdoor billet
stacking yard.
iron ore, 0.5 tonne of coal and about
20kg of limestone saved.
As the name would indicate, mini
mills have a relatively low steel production capacity when compared with
integrated steel mills but they can be
accommodated comfortably on just a
few hectares. Because they do not need
to be located near a railway or water
transportation facilities, mini mills
have a much wider range of suitable
geographic locations.
The factors driving mini mill location are an adequate supply of electricity, scrap availability and a local
market for products.
While mini mills are more specialised in the types and quality of the
steel produced, the wastes are similar
to those from iron and steel making.
The major difference in mini mill
waste is increased concentrations of
toxic metals in dust, sludge and slag,
due to the scrap metal used as the
input. Stainless steel scrap for exam-
ple, is high in nickel and chromium,
while other steel scrap may often have
a coating of zinc, tin, nickel, lead or
chromium.
Certain scrap may need to be chemically or physically treated before
entering the arc furnace to remove
its coating (eg, de-galvanising) before
being processed into new steel and it
is here that the mini mill metallurgist
has to exercise some of his magic. To
take an unknown mix of scrap steel
and finally produce a certifiable grade
of new steel requires considerable expertise and yet it is all in a day’s work
for the mini mill metallurgist.
Finally, as most mini mills are
located in large cities, great care is
exercised in maintaining the required
environmental controls. Indeed, environmental factors dominate the design
of any modern mini mill.
Electric arc furnaces
The arc furnace has been in use for
February 2002 13
STEP SIX
Billets are fed into a natural gas-fired
furnace where they are reheated to
rolling temperature of about 1150°C.
The billets are fed through a series
of rolling mill stands where they are
reduced and formed into various
sections and sizes, such as angles,
reinforcing bars and wire rod.
The rod and bar products produced
in the mill are cooled by water sprays
and air before being sheared to customer specified lengths.
nearly 100 years as a method of making steel. Originally confined to small
(several tonne) furnaces for the production of highly specialised steels,
recent developments have seen the arc
furnace growing in size and popularity
as technical problems have been overcome and reliable sources of cheap
electricity have become widespread.
In the last 15 years or so, the arc
furnace has undergone something
of a renaissance as technical innovations have led to very significant
improvements in productivity, steel
quality and operating cost. These
developments have proceeded to the
point where the arc furnace is now the
preferred, low capital, flexible route
for the production of a significant
proportion of flat products and almost
exclusively, long products.
The modern electric arc furnace
consists of a refractory lined steel shell
or hearth that holds the scrap charge
while it is being melted and retains
the liquid steel until it is ready to tap.
The walls above the liquid steel level
are typically water-cooled, replaceable copper panels. The furnace has a
water-cooled roof that can be swung
aside to allow for scrap recharging.
In most cases, loading of the furnace
is carried out via overhead clamshell buckets or baskets. All types
14 Silicon Chip
STEP SEVEN
After shearing or coiling, products are transferred to the mill’s finishing area for
straightening, bundling, strapping and dispatch to customers.
of scrap and scrap substitutes can
be added in this manner. Sometimes
charge carbon and fluxes (lime and
dolomite) are also added in this manner.
The preferred method of adding
smaller input materials is via a conveyer belt, loading into the “fifth” hole
in the furnace roof. This is known as
continuous charging. The number of
buckets required to reach the specified
tap weight will be determined by the
scrap charge density.
Arc furnaces can be either AC (three
electrodes, each with its own phases)
or DC (single or twin electrode). In an
AC furnace, the roof has at least five
openings, one for each of the three
electrodes, one for fume evacuation
and the abovementioned “fifth” hole.
Electric arc furnace
In an AC furnace, the current path is
from the electrode tip to the bath and
back to the next electrode in the phase
rotation. In a DC furnace, the current
passes from the electrode through
the bath to a return electrode in the
furnace hearth.
The electrodes are made of graphite
manufactured to have special properties of conductivity combined with
high strength at high temperatures.
The electrodes are consumed in
the process and need to be continually replaced. This is achieved by
“slipping” or lowering the electrode
through the holding arm into the bath
and adding a new section to the top.
This is done by screwing electrode
sections together.
Electrical power is supplied from
a substation, then to a step-down
transformer. The furnace also has its
own transformer that serves to alter
the furnace electrode voltage. These
voltage “taps” are usually selected
automatically but they may also be
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adjusted manually by the furnace operator. The electrode voltage determines
the arc length and therefore the power
applied to melt the steel.
As conditions inside the furnace are
constantly changing, it is necessary to
continually reposition the electrodes
to maintain the desired arc current
and power setting. This is normally
achieved by constantly measuring
the impedance (voltage divided by
current) and feeding this back to a
control system that will raise or lower
the electrode arms as the conditions
inside the furnace change.
Oxygen is used to assist in refining
the steel by burning off impurities
such as phosphorus. A lime-rich
slag is used to collect this and other
unwanted elements and provide a
base material to be foamed by the
evolution of carbon monoxide and
carbon dioxide gases. This foamy slag
helps improve energy effi
ciency by
preventing unwanted radiation of the
unshielded arc to the furnace roof. The
foaming action causes the slag to be
continuously flushed from the furnace
up until tap time.
The molten slag also helps in suppressing the considerable amount of
noise produced by the electric arcs.
When the appropriate steel chemistry and temperature have been achiev
ed, the steel is tapped either through
a spout or a submerged taphole, into
a ladle and then on to a ladle furnace
for secondary treatment.
Furnaces manufactured by EMCI for
example may be bottom tap design or
conventional design with standard or
current conducting electrode arms.
EMCI’s electric arc furnaces also feature hydraulic circuitry that allows for
rapid electrode travel and fast back tilt
to minimise slag carry-over.
Rooty Hill’s mini mill
To illustrate the operation of a typical mini mill, we now look at the One
Steel plant at Rooty Hill in Sydney,
NSW. This is quite a small facility
and yet the very first thing that stands
out is the small size of the actual Melt
Shop and electric arc furnace itself in
comparison to the overall size of the
whole facility.
The 60-tonne electric arc furnace
has been coaxed by an ingenious
and industrious staff into taking 80
tonnes of scrap in a single feeding. It
is this “small” furnace, working on a
continuous basis, that produces the
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All the steel from the Rooty Hill mill is first produced as continuously cast
billets such as these emerging from the tundish via water-cooled moulds. The
extreme heat rising from these billets has to be experienced to be believed yet it
is a pale shadow of that from the electric arc furnace.
The billets are later reheated prior to being fed to the rolling mill to produce
a wide variety of sections such as angles, reinforcing bars (rebar) for concrete,
round bars, flats, fencing wire and so on.
vast stacks of steel in the Rooty Hill
mill; some 500,000 tonnes per annum,
200,000 tonnes of which is sold as
bar stock. Here then is a very efficient
operation by any standard.
The furnace consumes large
amounts of electricity, the actual
rating being 62MVA (equivalent to
62 megawatts). The magnetic fields
surrounding the furnace is so strong
that the video monitors in the nearby
control room flicker continuously in
spite of serious efforts to shield them.
How the staff manage to watch these
flickering images continuously defies
comprehension. We assume that the
computer monitors will shortly be upgraded to LCD monitors which would
cure the problem completely!
To enter the melt shop and confront
the electric arc furnace in full song
is to finally come face to face with
Dante’s Inferno. Housed in a towering,
dark, windowless building, blackened
February 2002 15
in spite of careful sorting, can lead to
eruptions that may spit molten steel
across the melt-shop floor. Looking
after the furnace is certainly not a job
for the fainthearted!
The main steps
Fumes generated in the mill are treated in the bag filtration plant. This acts like
a gigantic vacuum cleaner to remove dust and particles before release to the
atmosphere. The righthand bag is operational while the other is on standby.
internally by years of fumes and dust,
the furnace presents an eerie sight.
Crouching in one corner and tied to
the Melt Shop building by a staggering
array of cables of all sizes – cables that
soar loftily up into the inky blackness of the dimly lit, almost invisible
ceiling – the furnace resembles some
prehistoric fire-breathing monster
chained down to prevent its escape.
The monster within
To confront this monster, the visitor
is given earplugs, glasses and a woollen jacket. Roaring and spitting and
emitting an intense light so bright that
it can only be viewed through special
glasses, and heat that is fearsome to
the extreme, one is immediately struck
with the thought that those who care
for this monster are special people.
To office workers who confront noth
ing more daunting in their working
day than a hot cup of coffee, here is a
different world indeed.
Control of the furnace is a delicate
operation. To begin, the scrap steel
16 Silicon Chip
input is carefully prepared to stringent quality standards by suppliers.
Composed largely of old car bodies,
washing machines, fridges and the
like, combined with structural steel
from demolition sites, waste and offcuts left over from other steel mills, the
input is a disparate mix. For example,
car bodies and white goods (fridges,
etc) will have been shredded to remove
all paint and plating so that they are
completely unrecognisable.
From this raw material, the metallurgists at the mill will eventually
produce certified grades of steel used
in such indus
tries as construction,
farming and transport. The mix in
the electric arc furnace must therefore be continuously monitored and
adjusted by the addition of other raw
materials such as burnt limestone and
dolomite, carbon, ferro alloys, oxygen
and nitrogen.
Feeding the electric arc furnace
continuously with a stream of scrap
that may on occasions still contain
an unknown quantity of impurities,
There are five major steps in the
transformation of scrap into graded
steel at the Rooty Hill steel mill.
(1) The carefully graded scrap is
delivered by truck to the mill’s scrap
pit which measures 100 x 23 x 6 metres deep. It is capable of holding up
to 18,000 tonnes, enough to feed the
furnace for about three weeks.
(2) Depending upon the demands of
the furnace production schedule, the
various grades are loaded by electromagnetic crane into scrap buckets for
transfer into the melt shop.
Interestingly, all the electromagnetic
cranes in the plant have battery backup, for safe depositing of loads in case
of power failure.
(3) In the melt shop, a crane lifts the
scrap bucket and empties its load into
the opened arc furnace. The furnace
capacity is 80 tonnes and the number
of buckets required to load the furnace
depends on the scrap density. The
furnace is manufactured by Danieli,
Italy. Bath diameter is 5.5 metres
and the tap weight is 75 tonnes. By
the way, the electrode diameter is
550mm.
The melting and refining stages are
conducted at 1600°C. As the scrap
is melted by the electric arcs, fluxes
are added to form a slag on top of the
molten steel. Oxygen is then injected
by a lance through the slag, into the
molten steel.
The resulting chemical reaction
causes the slag to absorb most of
the impurities from the steel. Those
impurities that are not trapped in the
slag are vented for cooling and collecting via the mill’s fabric filter bag
system.
The time from charging to finish of
a batch is 44 minutes and tap-to-tap
time is 56 minutes.
(4) When the steel has reached the
required temperature and chemistry,
it is tapped into a ladle for transfer
to the ladle furnace area. The ladle
furnace is again manufactured by Danieli and is a 12MVA, bottom-stirring
furnace featuring 350mm electrodes.
Power consumption is 15kWh/liquid
tonne.
(5) In the ladle furnace there is
www.siliconchip.com.au
more refining to be done, through
selective addition of alloys. When
the required alloys have been added
and exact specifications have been
reached, the molten steel is taken to
the cast shop where it is poured into
a tundish from where it flows into a
series of water-cooled moulds to form
continuously cast billets.
The continuous caster is a Danieli,
four-strand billet caster with either
121mm or 127mm sections. The
extrusion rate of the billets varies
between 2.9 - 3.1 metres per second,
the maximum sequence length being
36 hours. The square partially solidified billet strands are further cooled
by direct water spray in a secondary
cooling zone. While they are still hot
however, they are cut into 12-metre
lengths by automatic hydraulic shears.
A fully laden furnace will produce
approximately 88 billets.
The billets are then air-cooled before being carried by overhead cranes
fitted with electromagnets into the
outdoor billet-stacking yard. It is
interesting to note that steel loses its
magnetic properties above 600°C so
cooling must be well under way before the steel billets can be handled
with electromagnets.
Rolling into finished stock
As stated earlier, of the approximately 500,000 tonnes of steel billets
produced at the Rooty Hill mill, approximately 200,000 tonnes are sold
as raw billets to other steel mills. The
remainder is processed into lengths of
various shapes and sizes.
The rolling process begins with
the billets being reheated in a natural
gas-fired recuperative walking hearth
furnace where they are raised to the
rolling temperature of about 1150°C.
Billets are then fed through a 16-stand
800kW rolling mill with a throughput
of 270,000 tonnes per annum.
Here they are reduced and formed
into such shapes as reinforcing bar
for the building industry, angles and
flats for construction and transport
and wire rod for the fastener and wire
industries. The rod and bar products
produced in the rolling mill are cooled
by water sprays and air before being
sheared to customer specified lengths.
Shearing is carried out on-the-fly by a
swinging-arm guillotine, the finished
stock moving through the shears at 13
metres per second.
After shearing or coiling, products
are then transferred to the mill’s finishing area for straightening, bundling,
strapping, identification and dispatch
to customers in the Sydney area. The
plant’s warehouse area can accommodate up to 18,000 tonnes of finished
product.
Environmental considerations
As the mill is located in the heart
of a Sydney residential suburb, housing the electric arc furnace obviously
required considerable care, as indeed
did the whole mill. The seven hec
tares of mill buildings are located in
the centre of a 27-hectare landscaped
area.
Soundproofing the Melt Shop and
all noise generating plant required
the use of 320mm thick, sound-absorbing precast concrete wall panels.
Soundproofing is further en
hanced
by surrounding the entire plant with
a 5-metre high solid earth berm, created from some 63,000 cubic metres
of topsoil material.
An air-monitoring station near
the site incorporates a high volume
sampler and dust fallout gauge, as
well as wind-direction and wind-velocity meters. During mill operation,
fumes generated are removed from
the building and filtered through
thousands of filter bags housed in the
mill’s baghouse. Designed to handle a
total volume of 730,000 normal cubic
metres of fumes per hour, the bags act
like a gigantic vacuum cleaner to remove dust and particles to levels well
below the limits set by the NSW Clean
Air Act.
The mini mill also recycles all of its
processed water before it passes to the
sewer, to standards set by the Water
Board. Site runoff is strictly controlled
via a separate drainage system feeding
into settling ponds where sediment
collects before clear water runs into
nearby Eastern Creek.
So there it is. Rooty Hill is one of
several mini steel mills in Australia
and is relatively small by the standards
of such mills overseas but it still manages to produce half a million tonnes
SC
of steel per annum.
Acknowledgments: our thanks to
John Prestidge and Vince Ivancic, One
Steel, Rooty Hill, Sydney for their kind
assistance in preparing this article and
for a conducted tour of the One Steel
mill. All photos and diagrams courtesy
BHP Steel.
This diagram shows the layout of the
Sydney Mini Mill. The plant has been
designed to minimise noise by enclosing
all noise-generating machinery and by
constructing a 5-metre high earth berm.
www.siliconchip.com.au
February 2002 17
SILICON
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has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
This versatile infrared
(IR) remote control receiver boasts no less than 10
channels, each of which
can be independently set
for momentary or toggle
operation. It works with
most commercial IR remote
transmitters and is a snack
to build and use.
By JOHN CLARKE
Where would we be without our
infrared remote controls? Stuck back
in the dinosaur era, that’s where. IR
remote controls are now built into
lots of appliances, ranging from TV
sets and VCRs to audio equipment,
robots and lights.
This relatively simple design makes
it easy for you to add infrared
remote control to your
latest project or to existing equipment.
What’s more, it can control up to 10
different functions, which should be
more than enough for most applications (usually, you’ll only need one
or two channels). Each output uses an
open-collector transistor and this can
be used to switch a relay or even to
directly switch other 12V equipment.
The outputs can also be used
to drive LEDs via current
limiting resistors or to
drive optocouplers (eg,
to provide isolation
from high-voltage
circuitry). Heavy current items such as
motors and light bulbs
will have to be driven by
relays. We’ve made the job
easy for you by including
diagrams that show all the various options – see Figs.5(a)-5(d).
Commercial remote
As already indicated, the 10-channel remote receiver is operated using
a commercial handheld remote which
can also be used to control your TV,
VCR or satellite receiver. Using a
commercial IR transmitter vastly sim22 Silicon Chip
plifies the construction and you also
get a professional looking controller as
well.
Operation is simple – just press one
of the 0-9 buttons on the transmitter
to control the 0-9 outputs on the receiver. A momentary output stays on
for as long as its transmitter button is
held down, while a toggle output alternates between ON and OFF on each
subsequent press of the button. An
acknowledge LED flashes whenever
an IR signal is being received, while
10 more LEDs are used to indicate the
status of the outputs.
There, we told you it was simple
to operate!
All the parts for the circuit are
mounted on a small PC board and
this can either be housed in a separate
plastic box or built right into existing
equipment. The operational range is
up to about 12 metres.
Circuit details
Refer now to Fig.1 for the circuit
details.
As shown, it’s based on a preprogrammed PIC16F84 microcon
troller
(IC1). What? – you don’t like micro
www.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: IC2 is the infrared receiver – it picks up the pulses from the transmitter
and applies a demodulated signal to pin 2 of PIC microcontroller IC1. IC1 decodes the signal on its pin 2 input and switches the appropriate output.
controllers? Awwww – c’mon; it’s
a beautiful microcontroller and it
greatly simplifies the circuit design
because all the hard work is done by
the software that’s programmed into
the device.
You don’t have to worry about any
of this, of course, because you just buy
the preprogrammed device and “plug”
it in – just like any other IC.
Apart from the PIC, there’s just one
other IC, a 3-terminal regulator (REG1),
10-transistors (Q1-Q10), 11 diodes, a
crystal and a few resistors and capacitors. Let’s see how it all works.
IC2 is an infrared receiver which
amplifies, filters and demodulates the
code supplied by the transmitter. The
top trace in Fig.3 shows the modulated
signal from the hand-held transmitter,
www.siliconchip.com.au
MAIN FEATURES
•
Uses a commercial handheld
IR remote
•
•
10 separate outputs
•
•
Acknowledge LED
•
Transistor output for relay
connection
•
Operates on two different
remote codes
•
12V DC operation
Outputs can be independently
set for momentary or toggle
operation
LED indicator on each channel
while the lower trace is the demodulated signal at the output of IC2. The
modulation is at about 36kHz and
represents a high level (low levels are
represented by no modulation).
Note that the output of IC2 is inverted compared to the transmitted
code.
The remote control coding that
we are using is called the “Philips
RC5” code. It comprises 14-bits of
information, including two start bits,
a toggle bit, five address bits and six
command bits.
The two start bits are transmitted
first (makes sense, doesn’t it?), followed by the toggle bit. This toggle
bit changes each time the same button
is pressed on the transmitter. If the
button is simply held down, the transmission repeats at 113.778ms intervals
and the toggle bit remains either high
or low. The state of the toggle bit allows
February 2002 23
Fig.2: the modulating waveform – this operates at about
36kHz and is the frequency at which the infrared transmitting LED in the remote is switched on and off
Fig.3: the top waveform (channel 1) is the signal applied
to IC2 before demodulation, while channel 2 shows the
output of IC2 after the 36kHz signal has been removed.
Fig.4: the top
waveform here
(channel 1) shows
the stop/start
signal on pin 17 of
IC1. The bottom
three waveforms
(channels 2-4) are
the same as in
Fig.3.
the receiver to distinguish bet
ween
whether a button is being held down
continuously or has been pressed more
than once.
The address bits are for selecting
the type of equipment to be used. For
example, address 0 (00000) is for a TV
set. Address 1 (00001) is for TV2 or a
second TV set. The two addresses we
are using are for Satellite 1 and 2 at
addresses 8 (01000) and 10 (01010).
The last six bits are the commands
and we are using buttons 0, 1, 2, 3,
4, 5, 6, 7, 8 & 9, which have codes 0
(000000), 1 (000001), 2 (000010), 3
(000011), 4 (000100), 5 (000101), 6
(001100), 7 (000111), 8 (001000) and 9
(001001). These codes are transmitted
in “bi-phase” format, where a low is
a high level falling to a low, while a
high is a low rising to a high.
IC1 (the PIC microcontroller) is used
to decode the demodulated signal
from IC2. It does everything from the
24 Silicon Chip
remote control decoding to driving
the outputs. It also does away with the
need for a specialised IC and can be
programmed to operate with existing
commercial remote controls.
In operation, IC1 monitors its pin 2
input for a remote control signal. When
a signal arrives, it detects the start bits
and then monitors the demodulated
signal at regular intervals to provide
the code sequence.
The timing is controlled by dividing
down the signal from a 4MHz crystal
(X1) to obtain 1.8ms intervals – this
is the spacing between each bit in the
remote control sequence. The decoded
signal appears at pin 1 of IC1 and is
used to drive the Acknowledge LED
(LED11) via a 220Ω resistor.
IC1 can be forced to display its remote control status by connecting pin
1 to the 5V supply (TP2) via a 220Ω
test resistor at power up. This will set
pins 18 & 17 to provide a tracer signal
and a stop and start level for the code
respectively.
The tracer shows when the code
level is monitored for each of the 14
bits in the code. When in this mode,
the 0 and 1 outputs are prevented from
operating normally. Normal operation is restored by switching off the
supply for a few seconds, removing
the 220Ω test resistor and reapplying power.
The accompanying oscilloscope
traces show the remote control operation. Fig.2 shows the modulating
waveform – this operates at about
36kHz and is the frequency at which
the infrared transmitting LED is
switched on and off. The presence
of 36kHz modulation gives a high
signal level, whereas no modulation
represents a low signal.
Fig.3 shows the remote control
signals. The top waveform (channel
1) is the signal applied to the infrared
detector (IC2) before demodulation.
This is a modulated waveform with
the 36kHz signal appearing when the
signal goes high.
The next waveform down (channel
2) shows the output of IC2 after the
36kHz signal has been removed. Note
that this signal is actually inverted
compared to the top waveform. The
tracer (pin 18 of IC1) is the channel
3 signal and this indicates when the
level at IC2’s output (pin 1) is monitored by IC1.
The resulting decoded output
(which is the satellite-1 code for
transmit button 4) is shown in channel 4 (ie, the bottom waveform). This
decoded signal is made available at
www.siliconchip.com.au
TP1 and, as discussed above, drives
the Acknowledge LED.
Fig.4 shows a similar set of traces.
However, in this case, the top waveform (channel 1) shows the stop/start
signal on pin 17 of IC1. The bottom
three waveforms (channels 2-4) are
the same as in Fig.3.
The decoded signal is compared
with those stored in IC1’s memory –
ie, the 0-9 button codes for satellite 1
(sat1) or satellite 2 (sat2). The voltage
level at pin 3 determines whether a
comparison is made against the sat1
or sat2 codes – sat1 codes are used if
pin 3 is high, while sat2 codes are used
if pin 3 is low.
When the transmitted code matches a satellite code in memo
ry, the
respective output of IC1 goes high.
For example, if we press button 0 on
the transmitter, pin 18 of IC1 will go
high if the output is set for momentary
operation. Alternatively, it will change
from a low to a high or from a high to
Fig.5(a): driving a LED output.
Fig.5(b): driving an optocoupler.
Fig.5(c): driving a relay.
a low if set for toggle operation.
A momentary output will go low
as soon as the button is released. By
contrast, a toggle output will remain
in its new state (high or low) until the
button is pressed again.
Remote trickery
One problem with using the commercial IR transmitter is that the codes
are not actually generated by the internal circuitry. Instead, they are stored
replicas of the codes programmed
into the original equipment remote
controls that come with TVs and VCRs,
etc. These codes are stored in a memory that allows each code sequence to
be continuously replayed over a few
seconds. When the end of the memory
is reached, the sequence in memory is
started over again.
Because it would be rare for a code
sequence to finish exactly at the end
of the memory and start again at the
beginning (and with the correct timing between them), there is often a
disjointed flow of code. This presents
a problem because it is recognised by
the receiver as a different code.
We circumvented that problem by
monitoring the toggle bit in the remote
control sequence. Remember that this
toggle bit only changes state if the
button is released and then pressed
again. If the button is held down continuously, this bit will not change except at the “end of memory” discontinuity.
So, by programming the PIC to
ignore very brief code chang
es (as
indicated by very brief changes to the
toggle bit), we can easily “filter” out
this discontinuity. As a result, the
remote control receiver only responds
to genuine inputs to the transmitter.
This means that the outputs remain
in the correct state if a button on the
transmitter is held down.
By the way, the user is entirely
Fig.5(a): using two outputs to drive a motor in forward & reverse.
www.siliconchip.com.au
The circuit works with most pre
programmed IR remote controls – eg,
the “Big Shot 3” from Jaycar (Cat.
AR-1710) and the “8-In-One” from
Altronics (Cat.A-1007).
unaware of this filtering and there is
no detectable delay. Press a button on
the remote transmitter and the receiver
responds “instantly”.
Momentary or toggle operation is set
using a programming resistor on each
output (R1-R10). Each resistor can be
connected to either the +5V rail for a
toggle output or to 0V for momentary
operation.
When power is first applied to the
circuit, pins 18, 17, 13, 12, 11, 10, 9,
8, 7 & 6 of IC1 are all set as inputs.
The microcontroller then checks the
voltages applied to these inputs, as
set by R1-R10.
If a resistor is connected to the 0V
rail, its corresponding input will be
read as low for momentary operation.
Conversely, if the resistor is connected
to the +5V supply rail, the voltage at
the input will be about 2.69V. That’s
because the current flows through the
1.8kΩ resistor, a LED (LED1-LED10)
and the associated 390Ω and 300Ω
resistors.
The voltage across the LED will be
about 1.8V, so the resulting current
will be (5 - 1.8)/(390Ω + 300Ω +1.8kΩ)
or 1.285mA. This means that 2.31V
appears across the 1.8kΩ resistor
and so the input will be at 5 - 2.31
February 2002 25
IR CODE OPTIONS
SAT1 (CODE 424)
LINK LK1 IN:
SAT2 (CODE 425)
for driving LEDs and 12V relays with
more than 100Ω coil resistance.
Note that LEDs1-10 light when ever
their respective output transistors are
switched on via the remote control.
This means that the LEDs on the momentary outputs will light only while
their transmitter buttons are pressed,
while the LEDs on the toggle outputs
will toggle on or off.
Diodes D1-D10 are necessary to
protect the output transistors. They
quench the inductive spike voltages
that can be generated by relay switching.
Power for the circuit is derived from
a 12VDC plugpack. Diode D11 protects
against reverse polarity connection
and the 1000µF capacitor filters the
supply. The +12V rail is then used to
supply any output loads for transistors
Q1-Q10.
The +12V rail is also fed to 3-terminal regulator REG1 to derive a
+5V supply. This rail is filtered using
a 10µF electro
lytic capacitor and
supplies IC1 & IC2. Note that IC2 is
decoupled from the +5V rail via a 100Ω
resistor and 10µF capacitor to filter out
any noise on the supply.
Fig.6: install the parts on the PC board as shown here, noting that the LEDs
and the IR receiver (IC2) are mounted on the copper side (see photos). The
1.8kΩ resistors set the individual outputs to toggle (T) or momentary (M)
operation, depending on how they are installed – see text.
= 2.69V with respect to the 0V rail.
Since a high voltage level only needs
to be 2.4V or more, the input will be
detected as a high and this selects the
toggle mode.
Note that although the current
through the 1.8kΩ resistor is sufficient
to light the LED, there is insufficient
voltage across the 300Ω resistor (about
0.39V) to turn the output transistor
LINK LK1 OUT:
Building it
on. This prevents the output from momentarily switching on any external
devices during power up.
Following power up, the inputs are
turned into outputs and drive output
transistors Q1-Q10 via LEDs1-10
and 390Ω base resistors. The current
through the LEDs is about 6.4mA
and each transistor can deliver about
120mA of current. This is sufficient
A PC board coded 15102021 and
measuring 88 x 130mm accommodates
all the parts. Fig.6 shows the assembly
details.
Before installing any parts, carefully inspect the PC board for shorts or
breaks in the copper tracks. Check also
that the hole sizes are large enough
for the components, especially for the
screw terminals.
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
No.
1
1
10
1
10
10
2
1
26 Silicon Chip
Value
100kΩ
10kΩ
1.8kΩ
1kΩ
390Ω
300Ω
220Ω
100Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black yellow brown
brown black orange brown
brown grey red brown
brown black red brown
orange white brown brown
orange brown brown brown
red red brown brown
brown black brown brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black orange brown
brown black black red brown
brown grey black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
orange white black black brown
orange brown black black brown
red red black black brown
brown black black black brown
www.siliconchip.com.au
This view shows the completed prototype, mounted
on the lid of a plastic utility case. Note that the LEDs
and the infrared receiver (IC2) are installed on the
copper side of the board.
Begin the assembly by installing the
wire link near LED4 but don’t install
link LK1. Next, install the resistors
in the locations shown. The 1.8kΩ
resistors set the outputs to toggle or
momentary operation, depending on
how they are installed. For toggle operation, connect the resistor lead to the
“T” hole. Alternatively, for momentary
operation, connect the resistor to the
“M” hole.
Table 1 shows the resistor colour
codes but it’s also a good idea to check
them using a digital multimeter – some
of the colours can be quite difficult to
recognise.
The diodes can go in next, making
sure they are all oriented correctly.
This done, install a socket for IC1 with
pin 1 located as shown on Fig.6.
Similarly, take care to ensure that
the electrolytics are oriented correctly
when installing the capacitors. Once
these are in, install transistors Q1Q10, followed by the screw terminal
blocks (wire entry side facing outwards).
Regulator REG1 is mounted flat
against the PC board, along with a
small heatsink – see Fig.6. You will
need to bend the regulator’s leads
through 90° so that they pass through
www.siliconchip.com.au
their respective holes in the PC board.
This done, the regulator and its heatsink are fastened to the board using a
6mm-long M3 screw and nut and the
leads are then soldered.
The next step is to install crystal X1,
the DC socket and two PC stakes at the
TP1 and TP2 positions. That done, you
can complete the board assembly by
installing the LEDs (LEDs1-11) and IC2
(the infrared receiver).
The LEDs can either be installed
on the top of the PC board or on the
underside (ie, the copper side), depending on how the assembly is going
to be mounted. For the prototype, we
installed the LEDs on the copper side
– this allowed the completed assembly
to be mounted on the lid of a standard
plastic case, with the LEDs protruding
through the front panel.
About Remote Controls
This 10-Channel Remote Receiver
should work with just about any preprogrammed IR remote transmitter
that can control a satellite receiver.
It’s just a matter of programming it to
control a Philips satellite receiver (ie,
RC5 code) by following the instruction
manual.
Similarly, IC2 is also mounted on
the copper side of the board. Its leads
are then bent through 90° so that the
receiving lens aligns with a hole in
the front panel next to the Acknow
ledge LED.
Make sure that the LEDs are correctly oriented when installing them on
the PC board. They should be installed
with their tops about 14mm above
the board surface, while IC2 should
be mounted with its lens bezel about
13mm above the board surface.
There’s an easy way to mount the
LEDs and that’s to cut a strip of cardboard exactly 6mm wide, then use this
as a “spacer” between the LED and
the board. The accompanying photo
shows the idea.
Drilling the front panel
Fig.7 shows the front panel artwork – this can be used as a template
for drilling the front panel. You will
need to drill 11 holes for the LEDs,
plus four more to mount the board. In
addition, you will have to make a 6 x
6mm cutout for the infrared receiver
(IC2) – you can do this by drilling a
hole and then filing it to shape.
A hole is also required in the side
of the box, to allow access to the DC
February 2002 27
1
15102021
© 2002
10-CHANNEL REMOTE
Fig.7: here are the full-size artworks for the front panel
and the PC board. Check your etched board for defects by
comparing it against the above pattern before installing
any of the parts.
socket. Once the holes have been
drilled, the PC board can be mounted
on four 10mm-long tapped spacers
and secured using countersunk machine screws through the lid and
The LEDs are installed on the copper
side of the board using a 6mm strip of
cardboard as a spacer.
28 Silicon Chip
cheesehead machine screws through
the PC board.
Testing
Before testing, you have to set the
infrared transmitter to code 424. To
do this, first press both the SET and
SAT switches together – the transmit
LED should light. Now enter 424 by
pressing the 4, 2 and 4 buttons. The
transmit LED will now go out and
the remote control codes are now set
correctly for the receiver.
Now apply power and check that
there is 5V between pins 5 & 4 of IC1’s
socket. If this is correct, disconnect the
power, install IC1 and apply power
again. Now press each of the number
buttons on the remote control in turn.
The receiver should now light the LED
associated with the button pressed (ie,
if 0 is pressed, LED0 should light).
The behaviour of each LED indicates
whether its corresponding output has
been wired for momentary or toggle
operation.
If you wish, you can now check the
operation of the optional second code
by installing link LK1. The transmitter
will now have to be programmed to
code 425 instead of code 424.
Note also that the transmitter can
be programmed with the code number
placed in any of the SAT, VCR or TV
options. This means that if you build
two receivers, they can both be con
trolled using the same transmitter.
All you have to do is set code 424
for (say) the SAT button and code 425
for the VCR button – in the latter case,
you press SET and VCR simultaneously and then press 425. Note that
the second remote receiver must have
LK1 installed, while the first receiver
www.siliconchip.com.au
Parts List
The LEDs and the infrared receiver (IC2) are installed on the copper side of the
PC board and protrude through matching holes in the front panel of the case (ie,
the lid). Make sure that all these parts are correctly oriented.
Remote Control RC5 Codes
A standard RC5 control code consists of 14 bits (0-13). The first two are start
bits, then comes a toggle bit, followed by five address bits and six keycode
or command bits. The bits are separated by 1.778ms and the code repeats
every 113.778ms. The scheme is as follows:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Start bits (bits 12 and 13) – both high (1 and 1)
Toggle bit (bit 11) – high or low (0 or 1)
SAT1 address – 8 (bits 6-10) 01000
SAT2 address – 10 (bits 6-10) 01010
keycode 0 (bits 0-5) – 000000
• keycode 5 – 000101
keycode 1 – 000001
• keycode 6 – 000110
keycode 2 – 000010
• keycode 7 – 000111
keycode 3 – 000011
• keycode 8 – 001000
keycode 4 – 000100
• keycode 9 – 001001
should have LK1 omitted.
To control the first receiver, you
simply press SAT and then one of the
0-9 number buttons. To control the
second receiver, press VCR and then
one of the 0-9 buttons.
Output control
As mentioned earlier, Fig.5 shows
how to connect the outputs to perform
various functions. Fig.5(a) shows
how to drive a LED; Fig5(b) shows
how the LED in an optocoupler can
be driven, with the transistor output
providing an isolated switch; Fig.5(c)
shows how to drive a relay; and
Fig.5(d) shows how to drive a motor
via two relays, to provide for forward
and reverse control (note: you must
use two outputs from the receiver for
this, one driving RLY1 and the other
driving RLY2).
www.siliconchip.com.au
The NO and NC contact designations refer to whether they are normally open (NO) or normally closed (NC)
when the relay coil is not energised.
The common terminal (or wiper) is
referred to as “C”. Power for the motor
can be from the 12V supply if they are
12V motors. Lower voltage motors will
require a separate supply.
Power supply
Power for the unit comes from a
12VDC plugpack. This must be rated to cater for the loads that will be
connected to the 12V supply rail, so
you need to add up the likely current
drawn by the loads. Typically, you
will require a 500mA 12V plugpack
when there are no small motors connected and a 12V 1A type when a
motor is connected or if all 10 outputs
SC
are driving relays.
1 PC board, code 15102021, 88
x 130mm
1 plastic case, 157 x 95 x 53mm
1 front panel label, 92 x 154mm
1 12VDC plugpack (power rating
to suit application; see text)
1 preprogrammed remote control
(eg, Jaycar ‘Big Shot 3’ Cat.
AR-1710; Altronics 8-In-One
Cat. A-1007; or equiv.)
1 20-way screw PC terminal
block, 5.08mm pitch (10 x
Jaycar HM-3130 or equiv.)
1 18-pin DIL socket
1 4MHz parallel resonant crystal
(X1)
1 19 x 19 x 10mm TO-220
heatsink
1 PC-mount 2.5mm DC socket
4 10mm long M3 tapped spacers
4 M3 x 6mm countersunk screws
4 M3 x 6mm cheeshead screws
1 M3 x 6mm screw
1 M3 nut
1 30mm length of 0.8mm tinned
copper wire
2 PC stakes
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F84P microcontroller
programmed with 10-rmote.hex
(IC1)
1 infrared remote control
receiver (Jaycar ZD-1952 or
equivalent) (IC2)
1 7805 3-terminal 5V regulator
(REG1)
10 BC338 NPN transistors
(Q1-Q10)
11 1N4004 diodes (D1-D11)
11 5mm red LEDs (LEDs1-11)
Capacitors
1 1000µF 25VW PC electrolytic
3 10µF 16VW PC electrolytic
1 0.1µF MKT polyester (code
104 or 100n)
2 22pF ceramic (code 22p or 22)
Resistors (1%, 0.25W)
1 100kΩ
10 390Ω
1 10kΩ
10 300Ω
10 1.8kΩ
2 220Ω (1 for testing)
1 1kΩ
1 100Ω
WHERE TO GET THE SOURCE CODE
For those interested in program-m
ing their own microcontroller, the
source code (10-rmote.hex) can
be downloaded from our website:
www.siliconchip.com.au
February 2002 29
2.4GHz
High Power
A-V Link
Here’s an easy-to-build project which will
provide very reliable video and audio links
over several hundred metres or more. With
0.5W output, it operates on one of four
channels way up in the 2.4GHz band.
By ROSS TESTER
Y
OU WILL HAVE SEEN
adverts for devices of this
type – they’ve become quite
popular in recent years.
Operating on a frequency of
2.4GHz (that’s 2,400,000,000Hz for the
uninitiated!), most have about 10mW
or so output and while they work well
over a short range, the range is limited
by the low power.
This design has much higher power
– around 0.5W output, in fact. So as
you might expect, the range is very significantly extended. With the simple
coax cable “whip” antennas shown
here, the range is reliably 200m or
more. But if you use a simple dipole
antenna, you could expect much more
range – maybe 10 times or more.
Gain antennas
Perhaps a word or two about how
and why this is possible is in order.
It is sometimes difficult for people to
understand how changing antennas
can give longer range.
30 Silicon Chip
The simplest analogy I can think of
is using your own voice. You can talk
at a certain level and you’ll be heard
up to a certain range. You can shout,
and of course you’ll be heard by people
further away. You’re increasing the
power of your voice.
Or you could cup your hands
around your mouth and project your
voice in a certain direction. Those off
to the side won’t hear as much (if at
all) but those in the direction you’re
projecting will hear much more.
That’s the equivalent of using a directional antenna. You’re concentrating power in one particular direction
at the expense of other (unwanted)
directions.
If you replaced your hands with a
long length of pipe, those to the side
would hear little, if anything. But those
www.siliconchip.com.au
at the other end of the pipe, even over
a very much longer distance, could
possibly hear you.
That’s the equivalent of using a
highly directional antenna. Very little
energy is radiated in any direction
except the one you want.
OK, now that we know how to get
longer range by increasing power and/
or using directional antennas, let’s get
back to the Audio/Video Link.
Modular construction
One of the biggest difficulties for
the hobbyist working at ultra-high
frequencies is the precision necessary
in construction. As the wavelengths
become shorter and shorter (and at
2.4GHz the wavelength is only a couple of centimetres), even resistor leads
become effective little antennas – but
probably in areas of the circuit you
don’t want radiation.
Surface mount devices (SMDs) have
to a large extent solved that problem
but they are rather difficult devices to
work with given the normal range of
hobbyist tools – and experience.
The beauty of this design is that it
uses pre-built and pre-aligned modules from Oatley Electronics for both
the transmitter and receiver. All you
have to do is solder them to the PC
board, add a few power supply components, input and output sockets and
an antenna – and the project is largely
completed.
Now before you say “too easy” there
are a couple of wrinkles.
The first is the precision necessary
in soldering the modules to the PC
boards. If you think that soldering
normal ICs and multi-pin sockets to
PC boards is difficult, wait ’til you
see this one!
The 12-way connector occupies a
space of just 5mm x 1.5mm. And you
have to solder every one of those pins
in without any solder bridges. You’ll
need a steady hand and a very finetipped iron to do it. We’ll take a closer
look at this later on.
Second, you have to accurately
cut the antenna to length. As we said
before, at 2.4GHz, a few millimetres
make a difference, so you’re also going
to have to be pretty careful with this.
Apart from that, construction
should be quite simple.
The modules
There are two different modules,
one for the transmitter and one for
www.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: using the modules is easy – just add a 5V regulated power supply circuit,
an antenna and the audio/video sockets. The operating channel is selected using
a wire link.
Fig.2: the receiver circuit is just as simple as the transmitter but note that different pin numbers are used to select the operating channel.
the receiver (as you might expect!).
The transmitter is the smaller of the
two, measuring 43 x 30 x 8mm. The
receiver is 53 x 35 x 10mm.
Apart from the multi-way connection
socket on the back which we mentioned
before, the only other connection you
need to make is the antennas, which
solder directly to the modules.
Just a word of advice: don’t attempt
to open the module cans to see what’s
inside. You’re highly likely to damage
them and there’s nothing you can repair anyway.
The modules solder to identical PC
boards but there are a few more components on the receiver board than the
transmitter board. Both have on-board
February 2002 31
Fig.3: build the transmitter board by installing
the parts as shown here. The 3-terminal regulator
(REG1) is installed on the copper side of the PC
board – see photo.
RCA sockets for audio and video input
or output, a diode, resistor, LED and
capacitor (three capacitors in the case
of the receiver).
On the back of both boards is a 5V
3-terminal regulator.
On the prototypes (as photographed)
there is another small electrolytic capacitor soldered across the regulator
pins (mainly ’cos it was forgotten . . .)
However, on production boards this
electro will be transferred to the front,
as shown in the component layout
diagrams.
Construction
We suggest you leave the modules
until last. Assemble the rest of the
components on the PC boards – front
side first, then the 3-terminal regulator
(REG1) on the back.
The regulators screw to the PC board
with a 3mm x 10mm machine screw
and nut. Mounting them hard down
on the board assists with keeping
them cool – no further heatsinking is
required.
Before soldering the modules to the
PC boards, you have to cut and solder
the antennas (assuming you’re using
the simple coax cable type). Fig.5
shows the coax stripping details.
Solder the antenna to the receiver
or transmitter module with the inner
conductor going to the antenna terminal and the braid, or shield, soldering
direct to the module case as close as
possible. Next, solder a loop of hookup
wire from the module case around the
32 Silicon Chip
Fig.4: an identical PC board is used for the receiver
but note that the parts layout is slightly different to
that used for the transmitter. The channel selection
link is on the copper side of the board.
antenna (coax insulation) and back
to the case. This holds the antenna
in place.
Now it’s time for the difficult bit:
soldering the module onto the PC
board. We used the word “bit” to
remind us of step 1: fit the finest-possible tip/bit to your soldering iron and
make sure it is very clean and nicely
tinned.
There is no easy way to solder the
module in place and it’s easy to accidentally bridge adjacent contacts.
For this reason, it would be wise to
have a roll of solder wick on hand to
immediately remove any bridges you
do make.
You’ll also need a high power
magnifying glass (a jeweller’s loupe
is better) and a bright light to visually
inspect the board during and after
soldering the module.
One possible tip for soldering this
module: solder all the contacts as best
you can and then use the solder wick
to quickly remove the solder you’ve
just placed. This should ensure that
the pins pads are all nicely “tinned”
and just need the tiniest of touch-ups
with a hot soldering iron and some
very fine solder.
Again, though, we would strongly
advise a lit, magnified visual inspection of this section of the board before
moving on.
And just in case you were wondering – yes, the transmitter only uses 10
of the 12 pads.
Channel selection
Alongside the 12-pin contacts there
are eight closely-spaced pads which
are used to select the frequency on
which the system works. This can be
changed to avoid interference from
other 2.4GHz systems. The same pair
of pads must be linked on both the
transmitter and receiver boards.
Alignment
Fig.5: each antenna is made by
removing exactly 31mm of the
outer sleeve and braid from one
end of some 50Ω coaxial cable.
Here’s the quickest alignment of a
transmitter and receiver in history.
You don’t have to do it – it’s done.
Power supply
A 9V battery is not the best solution
for this project – the input power is
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around 1.2W so you’ll be dragging
about 130mA or so. It won’t last long
at all.
If you are using the system inside
a building, a 9-12V, 300mA plugpack
would seem the way to go. Outside, (or
away from mains power), rechargeable
nicads or NiMH cells would be a much
better proposition. Six cells will give
about 7.2V, leaving enough headroom
for the 7805 regulator.
If long-term battery-powered use
is contemplated, another possibility
is to do away with the 7805 regulator
completely and run the circuit (with
appropriate track links) direct from 4
x 1200mA or higher nicads.
At 1.2V each, four cells will give
4.8V when charged – a tad under the
5V from the regulator but within the
modules’ spec. You would have to
watch out for low voltage as the nicads
drop their bundle but as a rule they do
that rather quickly. You might need to
also remove diode D1 to avoid its 0.6V
loss but if you do, remember you have
no protection against “oopses” with
the supply connections.
1200mAH nicads are quite commonly available these days as are higher
power “C” and “D” cells.
Another option would be a 6V gell
cell. There’s 0.6V drop across D1,
bringing the supply to about 5.4V. If
you think that’s sailing a bit too close
to the wind put another diode in series
with the first for a 1.2V drop.
Testing
Once you have the power supply
dilemma solved, hook up appropriate sources of video and audio to the
transmitter. This done, connect a video
monitor and amplifier to the receiver’s
video and audio output sockets respectively and apply power. You should
have the modules separated by at least
several metres for this check.
Assuming no mistakes, you should
find that they work first up. There are
no adjustments to make, with the possible exception of antenna length (but
without specialised testing equipment
even this is quite difficult).
Now you can experiment with
the modules to see just what sort of
range you can achieve. We’d be very
surprised if it is less than a couple
of hundred metres but remember, at
2.4GHz objects in the way can make
a lot of difference – walls, trees, power lines, etc could be problems. You
might even find that what works on
a dry day is hopeless on a wet day
(especially if your path is through foliage).
Incidentally, the maximum distance
over which we have actually tested
this link is 50 metres (yes, the length of
my yard!). It worked beautifully – rock
solid picture, great audio, etc.
This was in the week prior to Christmas but over the break I'm going to
really put it through its paces.
Oatley Electronics report a number
of these units have already been sold
to people who have installed them
on such things as hang gliders and
balloons, with line-of-sight (air to
ground) ranges in the several kilometres range. Pity I don't have a hang
glider or balloon!
Data transmission?
While we haven't tried it and therefore cannot comment on success or
Parts List
2 PC boards, 55 x 48mm, coded
K171 (Oatley Electronics)
4 mono PC-mount RCA sockets
1 2.4GHz video transmitter
module (Oatley Electronics)
1 2.4GHz video receiver module
(Oatley Electronics)
2 1N4004 power diodes (D1)
2 7805 5V regulators (REG1)
2 3mm red LEDs (LED1)
2 120mm lengths 50-ohm coax
Hookup wire for power supply
connection, etc
2 M3 x 10mm machine screws,
nuts and washers
Capacitors
1 220µF 16VW electrolytic
5 100µF 16VW electrolytics
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
2 2.2kΩ (red red red brown or
red red black brown brown)
WHERE TO BUY THE KIT
A kit with all the above-listed parts
is available from Oatley Electronics,
PO Box 89, Oatley, 2223. Phone
(02) 9584 3563 or email sales<at>
oatleyelectronics.com The price
is $159 plus $7 for postage.
failure, Oatley have also had reports
of users putting these links in data
applications, feeding in via the video
input.
If anyone has any ideas (or better
still experience) on this, we’d love to
SC
hear from you!
Link one pair of pads on each
board to select channel.
This view shows the completed
trans-mitter unit. The antenna is secured with a wire loop soldered to the
back of the module.
www.siliconchip.com.au
The matching receiver unit is similar
to the transmitter. Don’t forget to install matching channel selection links
on the back of both boards.
Here’s how the 3-terminal regulator is
mounted. Ignore the 100µF capacitor
– the board has been modified so that
it’s now mounted on the front.
February 2002 33
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions from
readers are welcome and will be paid for at standard rates.
+5V REG
200k
VIDEO IN
(STANDARD
LEVELS)
14
8
680
0.1F
2
VCC
VS
VID
3
IC1
LM1881N
470pF
6
RSET
1 –
A
2
BURST
GND
5
B
3 –
R
15
Cx
Rx
16
6
VDD
13
Q
Cx
–
A
IC2a
74HC123A
680k
9
10
– 4
Q
4
0.1F
270k
4.7F
0.22F
11
B
7
Rx
Q 5
2-COLOUR
LED
IC2b
74HC123A
–
R
– 12
Q
8
0.1F
RED = NTSC
GRN = PAL
D1
1N4148
Ar
Ag
K
2.2k
8.2k
NTSC-PAL TV
signal identifier
This circuit is able to identify
PAL and NTSC video signals. Its
output is high for an NTSC signal
and low if the signal is PAL. This
output signal can be used, for example, to automatically switch in a
colour subcarrier converter or some
other device while an NTSC signal
is being received. One application
is for the reception from satellites
of ‘free-to-air’ TV signals, which in
Australia generally contain a mixture of 625-line PAL and 525-line
NTSC programs.
Operation of the circuit is as
follows. IC1 is an LM1881 video
sync separator which takes the
video input signal and generates
vertical synchronisation pulses.
For an NTSC signal, these pulses
are 16.66ms apart, corresponding
to the 60Hz field rate, while for a
PAL signal they are 20ms apart,
correspond
ing to the 50Hz field
rate.
Grand Prix
starting lights
This circuit reproduces the starting
light sequence currently used by FISA
for Formula One racing. It could be
used with slot car sets (such as HO
scale AFX/Life Like/Tyco sets) or radio
34 Silicon Chip
The vertical sync pulses are fed
into IC2a, the first of two dual retriggerable monostable multivibrators
in the 74HC123A. IC2a has a period
of very close to 17.9ms, set by the
200kΩ resistor and 0.22µF capacitor
at pins 14 & 15.
Because the mono
stable is re
triggerable, NTSC sync pulses arriving every 16.66ms will keep its
Q output, at pin 13, high. However
PAL sync pulses arriving every
20ms will allow the Q output to
go low after 17.9ms, before being
triggered high again 2.1ms later.
Thus an NTSC signal will give a
constant high output while a PAL
signal will result in a train of pulses
2.1ms wide. The Q output from IC2a
is fed to the inverting input of IC2b,
the second monostable, which has
a period of about 0.5s, as set by the
270kΩ resistor and 4.7µF tantalum
capacitor at pins 6 & 7.
With its input constantly high,
resulting from an NTSC signal, IC2b
is not triggered and its Q output remains low. However, the pulse train
controlled cars.
IC1, a 555 timer IC, is used as a
clock pulse generator. Its output is fed
via NAND gates IC2a and IC2c to IC3,
a 4024 binary counter. IC2b inverts
the O4 output of 4024 binary counter
IC3.
Initially, IC3 is reset and all its
47k
OUTPUT
TO RELAY
DRIVER
H = NTSC
L = PAL
from a PAL signal will constantly
retrigger it, so its Q output will remain high. The period of IC2b also
effectively makes it a low-pass filter
which removes spurious switching
due to any input glitches.
The output signal is taken from
the Q-bar (inverted) output, so that
an NTSC signal gives a high output, while PAL gives low. For the
particular application for which
the circuit was developed, diode
D1 and the resistor network shown
drive the base of an NPN switching
transistor and relay.
A dual-colour 3-lead LED can
also be fitted to indicate NTSC (red)
or PAL (green). Note that with no
video input, the output signal is
high and will indicate NTSC.
G. F. J.,
Emerald, Vic. ($40)
outputs are low, including O4, which
causes IC2b to present a logical high
to the pin 8 input of IC2c which then
passes pulses from the 555 clock
circuit to the clock input of the 4024.
IC3 then begins counting. After the
count has reached binary 1111, the
next pulse sends the O4 output of IC3
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high, which disables
IC2c and IC3 stops
counting.
The four used outputs of IC3 are conDa
nected to a resistor is thisvid Richards
mon ’s win‘ladder’ which acts ner of the Wthav
etek
Meterman 85XT
as a simple digitru
e
RMS digital
tal to analog conmultimeter.
vert-er (DAC). As
the count increases
so does the voltage
produced at the
top of the ladder
and this is connected
to the inverting inputs of four comparators inside IC4 (an LM339) and to IC5,
which is a 741 op amp also connected
as a comparator. The positive inputs
of the comparators are connected to
the taps of a voltage divider, with
the tapping voltages set using VR1, a
100kΩ trimpot.
As IC3 counts, the rising stepped
voltage from the DAC ladder switches the comparators on in sequence,
starting with IC4d and working up to
IC5. As each comparator is turned on,
its pair of LEDs is lit; first LEDs 1 &
2, then LEDs 3 & 4 and so on. When
all five pairs of LEDs are lit, the next
pulse from IC1 moves the binary count
of IC3 to 10000, so the DAC voltage
drops back to zero and all LEDs are
extinguished.
At the same time, counting also
stops, because the high on O4 causes
IC2c to block further gate pulses. The
circuit then remains inactive until the
counter is reset by pressing pushbut
ton switch S1. This allows a new
sequence to begin.
David Richards,
Redbank Plains, Qld.
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your credit card number.
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February 2002 35
Circuit Notebook – ctd
(POT UNDER TEST)
AUDIO SIGNAL
GENERATOR
Tracking down
scratchy pots
One of the most common faults
in audio equipment is noisy pots –
potentiometers that introduce scratching or crackling noises into the signal
as they are adjusted. The problem is
that sometimes a perfectly good pot
will sound scratchy or crackly because
of an intermittent connection or because DC is getting into it through a
faulty capacitor or an out of balance
direct-coupled stage.
So how can you determine whether
a pot really is scratchy before going
to the trouble of finding and fitting a
SIGNAL
TRACER
physically compatible replacement?
This solution is simple and involves
a test setup which can be done with
the pot still in circuit (but with the
power off).
Using clip leads or temporarily
soldered wires connected directly to
the pot’s terminals, connect the pot
as a volume control between a signal
generator and a signal tracer (or audio
amplifier), as shown. Then adjust the
pot up and down. If the signal tracer
gives scratchy noises on top of the
tone from the signal generator, then
the pot is faulty.
Andrew Partridge,
Kuranda, Qld. ($35)
Low cost battery
condition indicator
There are many published
designs for battery condition
indicators but they often
require specialised and expensive components. This
design combines power-on and
low-battery indication, can operate with any battery voltage
up to 15V, has very low current
drain (2mA or less) and costs
less than $3.50 with new parts.
When the battery voltage is
above a predetermined minimum,
power on is indicated by what
appears to be a steadily lit LED. In
fact, the LED is being pulsed by a
free-running relaxation oscillator
formed by IC1c, one gate of a 4093
CMOS quad Schmitt NAND. The
frequency of this oscillator should
be at least 50Hz, so that it appears
to be continuously on while at the
same time drawing far less average
current than a steadily lit LED.
The series resistor for the LED
needs to be selected for each battery
36 Silicon Chip
voltage, to limit the current to a safe
vale or you could use a fixed resistor
and a series trimpot for flexibility.
Low battery voltage is indicated
by the LED pulsing at around
1Hz.
The battery voltage is monitored
by transistor Q1 and trimpot VR1.
Once the voltage at its base falls
below 0.6V, Q1 turns off and Q2
turns on to enable the 2-gate oscillator formed by IC1a and IC1b,
which runs at 1Hz. The pulses from
this oscillator are inverted by IC1d
to gate the LED oscillator on and
off.
Calibration can be done with a
variable bench power supply set to
the lowest battery voltage you will
accept. Power up the circuit and
adjust VR1 until the LED pulses
once per second.
Peter Wilson,
Winmalee, NSW. ($35)
www.siliconchip.com.au
Heart Rate
Monitor
Strictly speaking, this simple circuit
shouldn’t work! How could anyone
expect an ordinary light dependent
resistor photo cell to ‘see’ through a
fingertip in natural daylight and detect the change in blood flow as the
heart pulsates? The secret is a high
gain circuit, based on a dual op amp
IC which can be either the low power
LM358 or the JFET TL072.
The LDR is connected in series
www.siliconchip.com.au
across the 9V battery supply via a
100kΩ resistor (R1) and the minute
signal caused by the blood pulsing
under the skin is fed to the non-inverting (+) input, pin 3, of IC1a via
a 0.µF capacitor. Pin 3 is biased by a
high impedance voltage divider consisting of two 3.3MΩ resistors. The
feedback resistors to pin 2 set the gain
to 11 times.
The output of IC1a is fed via a
0.47µF capacitor and 220kΩ resistor to
IC1b. This is configured as an inverting
op amp with a gain of 45 so that the
total circuit gain is about 500.
The output of IC1b is used to drive
an analog meter which may be a multimeter set to the 10V DC range or any
panel meter in series with a resistor to
limit the current to less than its fullscale deflection. The prototype used
an old VU meter with a 47kΩ resistor
fitted in series. Note that the unit
was designed to use the Dick Smith
Electronics light dependent resistor
(Z-4801). Other LDRs may require a
change in the value of resistor R1.
A light source such as a high brightness LED is not required. All that is
needed is a reasonably well-lit room,
preferably natural daylight, to produce
a healthy swing of the needle. Only
when the hands are very cold does it
make it a little more difficult to accurately count the pulses.
To check your heart rate, carefully
position your thumb or finger over
the LDR and count the meter fluctuations for a period of 15 seconds. Then
multiply the result by four to obtain
your pulse rate. The circuit can not be
used if you are walking or running,
etc.
Tony Lee,
Old Reynella, SA. ($35)
February 2002 37
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
Accidents do happen
Yes, accidents do happen. But these were not
the usual kind. No dropped picture tubes, no
vital components in the garbage, no lost accounts. Some jobs are acquired by accident,
and can be risky propositions. But sometimes they can be quite profitable.
Mr Crown’s six year old TV set, a
66cm GE 29GP480A (Thomson TX92),
was a typical example and it came to
me by accident. About four months ago
the set had died and he dutifully took
it to his local GE service agent. Three
months later, this “specialist” told him
it was a pile of junk he couldn’t fix
and didn’t want to fix. He suggested
he throw it out and buy a new one. It
was an extraordinary thing for a service agent to say about the products
he represents!
A lesser mortal might have left
it there but Mr Crown was made of
sterner stuff. He took it somewhere else
and they at least made some progress
– even though they weren’t GE agents.
The set was now no longer dead but
still had a few intermittent faults that
had to be fixed.
I know their principal technician
personally and when I called in to
have a cup of tea and a whinge about
our lot, I cried about how quiet it had
been since the GST came in – how
business had dropped off incredibly
now that new sets were 20% cheaper
while repairs were up to 10% dearer.
Apart from TVs, only top of the range
VCRs are worth tackling – providing
the faults aren’t major.
Anyway, the point of all this was
that, since I wasn’t all that busy, he
suggested that I might like to finish off
the repair on the GE set – as long as
I could do it within an agreed budget
and time. Well, what could I say? I had
to take it on.
I took it back with me to the workshop and switched it on. The faults
38 Silicon Chip
were all intermittent and included
poor video, green raster, cutting out
and varying picture size.
Fortunately, my colleague had also
supplied me with a circuit diagram,
but that was all he had. Most of
the problems seemed to be centred
around the intermittent green raster
and this was controlled by the screen
control (G2 or A1, depending on your
nationality) on the horizontal output
transformer.
Sensitive control
The control was set fully anticlockwise and was very sensitive. If it was
turned up, the picture’s poor video
would improve momentarily before
going into a runaway bright green
raster with the set cutting out.
I started by trying to check the main
HT, supposed to be 130V, on the cathode of DP51. There are no voltages
printed on the circuit but someone
had pencilled this in. While looking
for DP51, I noticed that resistor RP98
(270kΩ) had been unsoldered and half
pulled out.
I resoldered the resistor only to
find that the set was now completely
dead. The reason for this was that
surface-mounted transistor TP96
Items Covered This Month
• GE 29GP480A TV set.
• Toshiba 3429DXH TV set.
• Samsung TV-516 TV set
• Sanyo CPP 2930 TV set (A8A29 chassis).
(BC858B) had been destroyed. A new
one fixed that problem and also fixed
a few other faults. The picture size
no longer varied and the set did not
cut out unless the beam current was
ridiculous.
My colleague had already replaced
ICs IF01, IF02 and IB01, the latter
being a TEA5101B – the CRT video
output amplifiers. I measured the voltages on the CRT base and found that
the cathodes varied between 112V and
121V (green), while the screen voltage
seemed to be low at 210V. I changed all
the electrolytics on the board, especially on the 196V rail, but this made no
difference. I then checked TB18 and
the diodes. They were all OK except
for DB72, a BAV21, which was leaky.
I didn’t have a BAV21, so I fitted a
1N4148. This improved the picture
dramatically, especially after I adjusted the screen control.
Occasionally, however, when I
switched the set on to AV1, from cold,
it would still go green. I thought there
might be a chance of an intermittent
heater control short in the picture tube,
even though changing the channel
would take it out of the green raster
mode. Anyway, I reconfirmed that
this was OK by patching it onto another tube.
Considering the high voltages in
these circuits, BAV21 diodes (DB72,
etc) are quite critical for the automatic
greyscale (AUTO CUTOFF) control
circuits. 1N4148 diodes are rated at
100V while BAV21s are rated at 250V.
I ordered and fitted the correct ones –
except they weren’t surface mounted.
This made the set a lot more stable but
I was still doubtful about the screen
voltage on CRT pin 7; it seemed low
at 210V.
I entered the service mode by holding down the remote con
trol blue
TEXT (VT) button and switching the
set on. This is a fairly useless MENU
system, which isn’t self-explanatory.
The first thing I discovered was that
the channel or AV cannot be changed
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These binders will protect your copies of SILICON CHIP. They feature
heavy-board covers & are made
from a dis
tinctive 2-tone green
vinyl. They hold up to 14 issues &
will look great on your bookshelf.
80mm internal width
when in this mode so, first, it is necessary to tune the default program 1
to the signal pattern generator.
Navigation through the service
mode takes a little working out but
modes can be changed with the yellow
MENU button on the remote control
and the values with the volume +
and - buttons.
The first problem, after starting in
the service mode, is finding out what
various things are – eg, BRAND3 and
BD1 and (later) what is PEAK?
There are five greyscale settings for
the three colours but no instructions
on how to set them up. I adjusted the
green to improve the greyscale slightly
and left it at that until I could get more
information.
It was here that I ran into a brick
wall. Despite having telephone, fax,
and email facilities, trying to contact
the main service agent was appallingly
difficult.
No kidding; it took two weeks and
half a dozen phone calls, faxes and
emails to get a minimal response.
Basically, technical support is only
for dealers and has to be faxed, not
phoned (which means, definitely, no
questions answered). Phone calls are
only to the receptionist who blocks
any further calls higher up the ladder.
Their website requires you to become
a member. The only trouble is that its
membership form submission doesn’t
www.siliconchip.com.au
work and no-one answers the email.
After two weeks, I finally received
an email saying only dealers can use
the website and the only service information I can get is by purchasing a CD.
This I did and I eventually received it
another week later. It carried 16 files
with .DOC .DOT and .WPS extensions.
These print out to a fairly good circuit
explanation and a little fault finding
but no voltages, alignment or adjustments, which was all I was really after.
So much for technical support when
needed.
I persevered with a few more faxes.
Five days after the last urgent fax,
they did eventually phone back and
apologise for the delay; they told me
their technician would telephone in a
few days – and, surprisingly, he did.
The correct HT is 132V and the
screen voltage normally lies between
200V and 250V, so 210V was fine. The
screen control is set by first selecting
an empty AV input (black picture) with
the brightness set for mid-range and
turning the control up until flyback
lines can be seen, then backing it off
a little.
In the service menu, Brand 3 means
this particular model as opposed to
others in this range. He didn’t know
what BDI stood for. To set the greyscale
in the service mode, one really needs
to feed a pattern generator into one of
the AV output sockets.
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February 2002 39
of the main boards, it is necessary to
unplug a lot of connections before it
can be turned over, which means there
can be no measurements underneath
while the set is on.
Without a circuit, it was going to
be impossible to know where to start.
There are two tuners, two IF panels
and a 64-pin jungle IC, as well as a 64pin microprocessor – not to mention
numerous peripherals.
The agents for Toshiba are Castel
Electronics in Victoria and my friend
was extremely lucky to purchase a
poorly photocopied manual for $45.
Even armed with this, the task was
daunting and eventually he offered
the job to me.
Why me?
You can exit the service menu with
the TV/OSD button on the remote control, select the AV channel and then
re-enter the service mode with the
VT/TEXT blue button. Now, with the
colour control turned down to nearly
minimum (but not completely), and
brightness and contrast set to midrange, you can adjust the five menu
controls to set the greyscale visually.
It’s not very scientific and probably
difficult on an aging tube but this particular one wasn’t too bad. On a normal
TV set, one would adjust the cut-offs in
low light areas and the drives on high
bright/contrast areas. On this set, one
can only assume that R-DC and G-DC
are the cut-offs.
Anyway, I was fairly happy that
I had indeed fixed the set but I was
troubled that the screen control was set
so low and was so critical. Mr Crown,
however, was pleased with the result
even if I was dubious.
Troublesome Toshiba
And talking about accidental jobs,
how about this one! I never met the
owner of this 1992 Toshiba 3429DXH
that came in but I can imagine his
40 Silicon Chip
frustration the set. This is an overseas
model and judging by the 2-pin plug,
was probably bought in the United
States or Japan. And because it was a
28-system automatic multi-voltage set,
all he had to do was to plug it into the
power here in Australia, tune it in and
it would have worked.
And it probably did for years without a hitch until, recently, it was found
by the roadside awaiting a council
cleanup. The person (or persons) who
found it carried the 70kg 86cm TV set
to the nearest secondhand TV shop
and sold it for $50. Their technician,
whom I know personally, switched it
on to find that the picture and sound
were initially excellent but, after 30
seconds or so, it would lose sync
(particularly vertical) and the picture
would “go funny” – almost negative.
A simple fault, one would think,
and fairly easy to fix but you would
be wrong. First, this set has all the
bells and whistles and then some – it
even has karaoke! Secondly, access to
the chassis is appalling. It has three
flat chassis along the bottom of the
case with plug-in modules that are
soldered in. To get to the solder side
Why do I take on work like this? I
suppose I just can’t help myself. Anyway, it was delivered to my service
bench and I tried to make sense of how
it all worked.
First, I had to try to control the set
without the proper remote control and
so I used a generic one (Pilot or VESA
make ones that work this model). It
was still hard to juggle the controls,
which aren’t an exact match to the
set, but I was eventually able to tune
in the local stations.
Tracing the signal through the five
plan-size circuit diagrams wasn’t easy,
partially due to the poor photocopy
but also because of mistakes in the
schematic, particularly in following
the video and sync paths. Often one
would follow the path from what
appeared to be a source only to find
that the destination was the source
with the arrows reversed on another
module! Not only that but quite often
they would become a dead end on a
module.
I started on the Video Out from the
IF unit board (pin BO) and followed
it to a small 3-transistor circuit which
had an output marked TV SYNC. The
only problem, when I finally managed to hook an oscilloscope to the
component side of this circuit, was
that there was no output. This was
exactly the sort of symp
tom I was
seeking and I was starting to feel hopeful.
Unfortunately, it took about three
hours of checking all the voltages
(which were correct) and changing
almost all the compon
ents before I
realised that this circuit was only a TV
sync detector and delivered a voltage
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to the microprocessor which helped
determine the auto cut-off (no sync)
and, presumably, the frequency.
I moved on from the main board
via plug PVO2A-228 where the arrows suddenly went in the opposite
direction but nevertheless the signal
arrived at pin 36 of ICV01 (TA8777N)
on the Back Terminal Board V003
(PB3013-1). This IC controls all the
inputs and outputs from the three AV
inputs plus the TV set. Once again, it
took a bit of fiddling but I eventually
managed to get the AV inputs to work
and I connected a signal generator.
Even so, the picture was still rolling
and negative.
Next, I connected a monitor to the
output monitor socket of the Toshiba.
Surprisingly, the picture was perfect
on the monitor but not on the set
itself.
The output to the monitor was via
pin 30 for ICV01, whereas the TV
signal was now called Y OUT on pin
18 and I could see the sync pulse
being crushed and the centre parts of
the colour bars also being crushed. I
felt I was on the right track and so I
ordered a new IC. And then I discovered a strange thing – with the colour
turned off, the picture on the TV set
was perfect. In fact, it turned out that
just turning off the burst was enough
to make the difference.
The new IC finally arrived and I
was disappointed to find it made no
difference. All the inputs to this IC
gave a perfect picture to the monitor
output but not to the TV set. I replaced all the electros around the IC
and checked all the voltages but they
were OK. I then started replacing the
transistors around the IC: QV11, QV12,
QV10, QV7 and QV5 but they were all
perfect.
I must admit I was beginning to feel
defeated. I couldn’t understand why
when all the inputs were correct, the
Y out wasn’t.
I spent some considerable time
investigating the colour circuits, especially the colour system circuit, on
the chance that when the burst was
present perhaps the wrong system was
selected, causing the sync to change.
I ordered and fitted a new jungle IC
(IC501, TA8783N) but that made no
difference; nor did indeed removing
the Teletext Board U009 (PB3017)
and linking FA and FE. I removed
the karaoke board as well but again
drew a blank.
By now I was beginning to follow another clue. When switching it on from
cold the picture was perfect for nearly
30 seconds, which might mean that
heat from something was the key factor – perhaps even the power supply. I
tried heating and freezing components
all over the set but still couldn’t find
anything sensitive enough to change
the symptoms.
I went back to ICV01, and noticed a
number of links drawn on the circuit
that could reroute the signals. One,
in particu
lar, reroutes the monitor
output to the TV set instead. These are
marked #1 and #2, so I swapped the
links. This was a small breakthrough
as the picture was now stable on the
screen, though the picture quality was
poor.
Swapping another set of links
marked JP from pin 26 “COL IN” from
the COMB filter to the monitor output
gave a perfect picture. This made me
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03-01
decide to investigate the COMB filter,
which is connected via PZ01A.
Locating and separating this board
(D-COMB/LT 1/P-TUNER U012A
3020-1) was a feat in itself. It was bundled tightly on the lefthand end of the
chassis and was screwed in with the
wiring harness on a plastic frame and
surrounded by metal screening cans.
The actual board was marked PB33051 and is part of the picture-in-picture
circuit. I noticed that the output to
the monitor from pin 30 of ICV01
also went via QV02 to pin 300, and
then via Q211 and Q212 to a large
special IC designated QZ01 and made
by Sony.
This is a digital comb filter and actually consists of five surface-mounted ICs on a double-sided ceramic
module inside a metal can. There
are two analog-to-digital converters
and two line memory ICs with a DCF
microprocessor. The signal arrived
at pin 1 of IC QZ01 and left via pin
13, then went through five more transistors before going back to pin 28
of ICV01.
The CRO showed that the signal
was fine going into the digital comb
filter but it wasn’t coming out. I then
found that freezing the IC would fix the
picture for a short while. My previous
attempts with heating and freezing
obviously didn’t work because of
the metal screening and because the
module was “buried”.
I ordered a new IC (SBX1692-01;
trade cost $72) and eventually received
a substitute list with an SBX1765-01.
This also specified that QZ10 should
be changed from 10µF to 100µF on
the IC input.
This was the final solution to this
problem and completely fixed the
fault.
The correct remote control is on
back order so that I can finally access
the P-I-P and Karaoke menus. Surprisingly, the picture on this 10-year old
TV set is stunning.
In fact, I was so impressed with this
set that I approached my friend and
struck a deal to keep it. Basically, I
would swap three 51cm secondhand
remote control TV sets for it, which I
worked out as being worth about $750.
The Toshiba was worth about $5000
10 years ago and it performed like a
new one.
We were both happy with this deal.
But, privately, I couldn’t help recalling
the rhetorical question I asked myself
when I first tackled the job: “Why do
I take on work like this?”
Frustrating Samsung
I had a frustrating time recently
with a 1996 Samsung TV516, which
had been dropped. There was slight
cabinet damage but the set was still
working, apart from a purity problem. I
had a go at degaussing and readjusting
it but after trying external magnets, I
reluctantly concluded that the shadow mask had moved inside the tube
(A51KQJ63X).
Fortunately, I had a secondhand
tube that was fairly close to the original
and so I fitted that. The tube I fitted
was a little older and used a different
yoke, so the dynamic conver
gence
wasn’t as good as with the original
one – but it was acceptable. All that
was left was to adjust the greyscale
and that meant getting into the service
made.
It also meant getting a service
manual and, after that, there was the
frustration of trying to make sense of
it. It might as well have been written
in a foreign language, because most of
it was hopelessly inaccurate.
To get into the service mode, one
has to press the “HIDDEN” service key
- which didn’t exist. Nor was there a
“STATUS” key and, in the menu, there
isn’t any “AGING” mode. The service
mode is actually accessed by pressing,
in sequence, the STAND-BY, P.STD,
HELP, SLEEP and POWER ON buttons
on the remote control.
All I had to do was adjust the five
greyscale menus, which I did. However, I made a mistake on one entry
and wanted to cancel it, which I am
supposed to be able to do by pressing
the nonexistent HIDDEN or STATUS
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February 2002 43
Serviceman’s Log – continued
tioned on the TV516
but I assume it is either
CX, CK or CW. It is
marked PIB03 on the
main PC board under
the horizontal output
transformer and I assume this is an SCT 11B
chassis variation.
It was all far too confusing for an old codger
like me. I managed in
the end, more by luck
than judgement, to get
the thing working properly. But my advice to
anyone is that, before
making adjustments to
any menu, you should
write down the values
first – especially the OPTION BYTES. Whatever
you do, do not Reset it!
A real mystery
key. In the end, I phoned technical
support who were very helpful. They
suggested I press the reset menu option
and correct the error.
So I did, not realising that this wipes
out the entire EEPROM memory, including the options. When I tried to
retune the TV set, it would only tune
on UHF.
I had to go back into the service/
factory mode (is there a difference?)
and set up the “Option Bytes”. The
only trouble was I didn’t have the
figures for this Australian model. I
went back to technical support and
they didn’t have them either but later faxed BYTE 0 = 40, BYTE 1 = 08,
BYTE 2 = 23. The only problem was,
this model had only two BYTEs, not
three!
So I had to guess what the value
was for each bit and calculate the byte
0 and byte 1 additions. I made BYTE
0 = 0 + 0 + 0 + 0 + 8 + 4 + 0 + 1 = 15,
and BYTE 1 = 0 + 32 + 0 + 0 + 0 + 4 +
0 + 1 = 37 from the ambiguous list of
options in the service manual.
I also had a look at a Samsung TV486
which had BYTE 0 = FC and BYTE 1 =
01. Unfortunately, I don’t quite know
what criteria they worked those out
on.
There is no model number men44 Silicon Chip
Following this exercise in frustration, a reader brought
in his Sanyo TV set and Sony VCR
with a baffling problem. When playing
certain parts of certain tapes, the TV
set would switch on and off!
The TV set was a 1992 Sanyo CPP
2930 A8-A29 chassis, while the Sony
VCR was a hifi SLV-X822AS. It was
normally connected to the TV set via
AV leads but the fault occurred just as
readily via an RF lead on channel 36.
Well, where does one start with such
a mystery?
Fortunately, the customer brought
in a tape that would trigger the problem regularly and I was able to observe
the problem first hand. However, if the
tape was tested in another VCR and
TV set combination, it had no effect.
Similarly, I tried a variety of my own
tapes in the Sony VCR but none would
affect it.
So how could parts of a particular
tape turn a TV set off and on? It took
me a little while to think of how this
could happen.
First, what could be different between various tape recordings? There
is no clue just before the problem
occurs, such as picture or sound degradation. However, many prerecorded
tapes have Macrovision protection, a
trick involving sync pulse distortion
to prevent illegal copying.
Second, what ways are there to turn
this TV set off other than via its remote
control and the power switch? Well,
there is an OFF timer and there is an
auto shut-off feature which turns the
set off after a broadcast has ended.
And the latter is triggered when the
sync pulses are no longer transmitted.
The common denominator for both
of the above is the sync pulses, or rather, the lack of them. Having created a
hypothesis that might meet the facts,
testing it and devising a way to work
around it is a lot harder.
I managed to obtain a service manual but imagine my reaction when I discovered that the only circuit missing
was for the sync and reset module(s).
Some sets have two separate modules
and some have one combined. Nether
are drawn in the service manual other
than as a box in a block diagram.
I had to ask myself, is there an actual
fault here with the VCR or the TV set,
or is this a design problem? I tried
connecting the VCRs and putting the
tape in other players – but in the end,
I felt this wasn’t a fault; the TV set
just wasn’t designed for Macrovision.
That being the case and because the
set was nine years old, perhaps Sanyo
knew about it.
Service bulletin
The next problem was that Sanyo
no longer services its own products
but fortunately they do have service
agents, one of whom I know well. I
asked my friend whether there were
any technical service bulletins that
might be similar to this problem. He
had a good look before telling me
the good news. There was one dated
27-4-94 (no. 24) for the CPP2930 and
2530 models, the fault being: “The TV
set switches off and on (CPU resets
momentarily) on VCR search mode”.
The cause is put down to the fact
that “the horizontal frequency detection circuit range is too narrow”.
Ironically, this didn’t happen in search
mode on this particular set but the rest
was close enough for me.
It was then just a matter of purchasing a kit of parts and fitting them
on the SYNC and RESET PC board
(VE2689). Identifying their location
was time consuming without the circuit or board layout but everything
was otherwise straightforward and
the modifications completely fixed
SC
the problem.
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53 Silicon Chip
Big, bold & beautiful . . .
VAF’s 2-Way To
Want to build a pair of speakers
which are big, bold and beautiful and
won’t cost a fortune? Have a look
at this tower speaker from VAF
Research. It comes with fully
assembled cabinets and virtually all
you have to do is install the speakers
and some hardware.
By LEO SIMPSON
Each speaker system uses two woofers and a horn-loaded dome
tweeter. Other items in the loudspeaker kit include the pre-wired
rear connector panel, felt damping pieces to go around the tweeter and foam-backed adhesive tape for sealing around the woofers
and the base panel.
Standing tall – the VAF DC-X tower
speaker with the grille cloth frame
removed. The big advantage of a
tower speaker is that you get a big
enclosure which takes up little floor
space.
54 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
and they sound great
ower Speakers
N
OW WE HAVE already said
that these speakers are big,
bold and beautiful so if you are
looking to build a pair of petite speakers to go on a bookshelf, these are not
the ones for you. If you need to clear
this purchase with your partner, tell
her/him that they would be great as the
front speakers in a top-quality home
theatre system. And you can have them
finished in real Cherry wood veneer
rather than boring black.
Did we say they are big? Well they
are quite tall at 1245mm but they don’t
take up much floor space – just 268mm
wide by 306mm deep. In fact, there are
plenty of much smaller speakers on
stands that would take up more floor
space but they won’t have the punch
of this system. In fact, this is the big
advantage of a tower system; you get a
big system but it does not take up any
more floor space than a much smaller
system.
No special tools are required to put
the systems together. You will need a
drill, hammer, screwdriver, soldering
iron, sharp utility knife and not much
else. When you have put them together, you will have a pair of speakers
which look really good, with up-tothe-minute styling. They come with
black finished top and bottom plates
and a full width grille cloth frame
which makes a nice contrast with the
Cherry veneer side panels.
Actually, there are several models
available. One with a stained black
cabinet and wraparound grille cloth
which slips over the cabinet like a sock
and the other which comes in Cherry
veneer. We assembled the Cherry version and in our opinion it is by far the
more attractive of the two.
There is no assembly required for
the cabinets themselves and that saves
a heap of work. Nor do you have to
worry whether your workmanship
is up to par since the cabinets are of
the same standard as that for finished
systems on your hifi retailer’s floor.
To help make the whole assembly
process easier, we have taken a series
of photos showing most of the steps
required. While it does take some
time, we reckon you could assemble
one speaker in an evening, so after
two nights you could be listening to
fine music.
By the way, while the cabinets
appear as simple towers, their internal structure is quite complex, with
internal compartments and bracing.
So they would not be simple to put
together if you had a wish to assemble
the cabinets yourself.
Drivers and crossover
Two 200mm (nominally 8 inches)
woofers and a single horn-loaded
dome tweeter make up the speaker
complement in each cabi
net. The
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The tweeter is mounted on a recessed
panel in the front baffle and then is
surrounded with zig-zag shaped pieces of thick felt to damp any peaks in
the response due to the cavity.
woofers are quite unusual in appearance. Instead of the common black
polycarbonate cone, these have a
woven yellow com
posite fibreglass
cone and black neoprene rubber roll
surround. Four pieces of blue felt have
been glued to the cones, presumably
to damp unwanted cone resonances
or modes of vibration.
The woofers, which are made in
France, are fitted with a large ceramic
magnet and have an edge-wound voice
coil with a diameter of about 42mm
–quite large.
The effective cone diameter of
the woofers is 150mm, giving a total
February 2002 55
Cost And Availability
Fig.1: the on-axis frequency response is within ±2dB from 35Hz to 20kHz.
Fig.2: the on-axis phase response is exceptionally flat.
Fig.3: the impedance curve shows a minimum of 4Ω between 100Hz & 1kHz.
Note the characteristic “double-hump” at the bass end; typical of a bass reflex
system.
effective bass cone area for the DC-X
system of 353cm2.
The tweeter is also interesting, being a horn-loaded soft dome type and
fitted with a large ceramic magnet.
It is mounted in a recess in the front
baffle to give “time alignment” with
the woofers. This recess is heavily
damped with zig-zag pieces of thick
felt to prevent any nasty peaks.
With all the cone treatment applied
to the woofer, it apparently has quite
an attenuated high frequency response
be
cause the DC-X manages with a
very simple crossover network. The
parallel-connected woofers are fed
with the full frequency range from the
amplifier while the tweeter is fed via
a 3.3µF capacitor and 0.47Ω 5W wire
wound resistor. These components
are supplied already mounted on the
inside of the rear connector panel so
there is no extra work to be done with
56 Silicon Chip
regard to that aspect.
Note that the rear connector panel features two pairs of heavy duty
gold-plated binding post terminals
and these are normally strapped together. By removing the gold-plated
straps, you could “bi-amp” the DC-X
systems (ie, use separate amplifiers for
the woofer and tweeter) but we would
not bother.
Regardless of the simplicity of
the crossover network, the claimed
frequency response is commendably
flat, being within ±2dB from 35Hz to
20kHz and with useful output down
to below 30Hz. See Fig.1. Moreover,
the phase response is very flat, with
a claimed ±5° between 100Hz and
20kHz (see Fig.2); that is the big advantage of using a really simple crossover network.
The impedance curve is shown in
Fig.3 and nominal impedance is stat-
As built, with MDF cabinets in Cherry
veneer, the VAF Research DC-X speakers
are priced at $1399 a pair. You can check
the VAF website at www.vaf.com.au to
see all the various price permutations. You
can also get the speakers fully assembled
for an extra $330 a pair and for many
people, that will be regarded as a good
option, in spite of the fact that the assembly process is quite straightforward, as
we shall see.
The DC-Xs come with detailed assembly instructions which are quite easy to
follow. The following series of photos
shows most, but not all, the major steps.
The cabinets arrive separately packed and
have some of the foam filling already in
place.
As well, you will receive a box with all
the drivers, the rear socket panels with
crossover network and speaker leads
already soldered, and various other pieces
of hardware, grille cloth, etc.
ed to be 6Ω although for a significant
portion of the frequency spectrum
between 100Hz and 1kHz, the impedance is around 4Ω. Interestingly, VAF
Research describe the model DC-X as
having cabinets which are a “unique
tapered lossy line design”. OK, so what
about the bass port on the front baffle?
Doesn’t that make it a bass reflex? Well,
yes and that is supported by a glance at
the “double hump” of the impedance
curve at bass frequencies.
But apparently the tapered chambers inside the enclosure, which are
packed with a variety of foam damping
materials, do pretty heavily damp the
output from the rear of the speaker
cones and so too, the port.
By the way, rated efficiency of 95dB/
watt at one metre is very high and it
means that the DC-X loudspeakers will
give a very good account of themselves
with a relatively small power amplifier
in smaller rooms.
Recommended amplifier power is
from 10-200W RMS per channel and
presumably that applies to normal
program material (ie, not continuous
tones).
With a 100W (or high power) per
channel amplifier, you can rest assured that the VAF Research DC-X
speakers will produce a wonderfully
smooth response on all types of music,
particularly classical and jazz. They
should give many years of sound
satisfaction.
www.siliconchip.com.au
STEP 1: turn the tower enclosure upside down and insert two wedgeshaped pieces of foam into the bottom compartment. The pieces fit
against each side of the cabinet, leaving a large free area in the middle.
Three other foam sections need to be inserted if the cabinets do not
already have it fitted.
STEP 2: fit the rear connector
plate. Place the enclosure face
down and pass the wires attached
to the terminal plate through the
hole in the rear of the cabinet,
through the hole in the internal
brace, to one side of the port
tube and towards the front of the
cabinet.
STEP 4: turn the cabinet face up
and pull the labelled speaker wires
through the respective holes in
the front baffle.
STEP 3: position the terminal
plate in the hole, drill four pilot
holes for the mounting screws
and screw the terminal plate into
place.
www.siliconchip.com.au
STEP 5: Fitting
the woofers:
first, apply the
black foambacked tape
around the holes
for the woofers.
This is to seal
around the woofer frames when
they are screwed
down.
February 2002 57
Step 6: solder the labelled wires
to the terminals of the woofers.
Do not solder directly to the
terminals of the tweeter as it is
too easy to damage them. Instead,
we fitted some crimped quick-connects to the tweeter wires and
then just pushed them on. Be sure
to double check the polarity of all
connections.
Step 7: fitting the felt pads: there are number of zigzag-shaped felt
pads to go around the tweeter. These are glued in place to stop them
from becoming dislodged.
Step 10: install the
cap clips into the front
baffle – these allow
the grille cloth frame
to be clipped on the
baffle.
Step 8: fitting the grille cloth
Lay the two grille cloth frames
face down on the grille cloth and
cut it in half. You then fold the
grille cloth over one of the frames
and then secure it by pushing the
supplied black plastic spline into
the pre-cut channels. This job is
made easier if you use a spline
tool intended for use in making
flyscreens.
Step 9: after the splines are all in
place, trim the material all round
with a sharp utility tool.
58 Silicon Chip
Step 11: installing the base & top:
run foam tape all around the bottom
cutout to seal it when the base panel
is installed; then drill the holes for
the base retaining screws and screw
them home.
www.siliconchip.com.au
Step 12: the top panel is installed with the
same cup clips as used for the grille cloth
frame.
Step 13: the last step is to peel the adhesive backing from the VAF badges and
position them on the grille cloth.
Right: the finished VAF DC-X tower speaker
pair, with and without the grille cloth frame.
The finished speakers really do look impressive.
UM66 SERIES TO-92
SOUND GENERATOR.
THESE LOW COST IC’S
ARE USED IN MANY TOYS,
DOORBELLS AND NOVELTY
APPLICATIONS
1-9
$1.10
10-24 $0.99
25+
$0.88
EACH INC GST
www.siliconchip.com.au
February 2002 59
TOUCH and/or
REMOTECONTROLLED
LIGHT DIMMER
Last month, we covered the design and
board assembly of our new Light Dimmer.
This month, we complete the construction,
detail the touchplate and pushbutton extensions, and describe the test procedure.
Pt.2: By JOHN CLARKE
O
NCE YOU HAVE completed
the assembly of the main PC
board (see Fig,3 last month),
the metal contact screw can be installed as shown in Fig.7. This done,
cover the exposed end of the contact
screw, the nut and the surrounding PC
board area with a generous coating
of neutral-cure silicone sealant, so
that there is no exposed metal on the
component side of the PC board.
Smear the silicone sealant on with a
wet spatula and make sure it adheres
to the surface of the PC board. Apply
a second coating if necessary.
The ends of the 4.7MΩ resistors
should be cut off flush with the top
surface of the PC board. These resistor
ends and the surrounding board area
should also be covered with silicone
sealant, so that the mains cannot possibly directly short against them or the
metal contact screw.
Extension circuit
The extension circuitry is relatively
compact – see Fig.8. In its simplest
60 Silicon Chip
form you can use a momentary contact
mains switch which closes the Active
and EXTN terminals when pressed.
Alternatively, you can use another
touchplate extension unit which includes the 4.7MΩ protection resistors
and a few other components.
The touchplate extension operates
as follows: if the touchplate is not
touched, Q1 is held off via the 1MΩ
resistor between its base and emitter.
If the touchplate is touched and the
Active is above ground, Q1’s base is
pulled low via D1 and the 2.2MΩ resistor. This switches on Q1 and the EXTN
connection is pulled to the Active.
This will operate the main dimmer
circuit in the normal way.
The .01µF capacitor acts as a filter and prevents sudden transients
from driving Q1. Zener diode ZD1
protects against excessive voltages at
the cathode of D1. This zener and the
220Ω resistor at the collector of Q1
provide protection if the connection
to the main circuit is reversed. In this
case, ZD2 will be forward biased (thus
protecting Q1), while the 220Ω resistor
provides current limiting.
Construction
The extension circuit is built on a PC
board coded 10101022 and measuring
52 x 72mm. As with the main dimmer
board, it is installed into a Clipsal
blank plate with a blank aluminium
touchplate.
Fig.7: this cross-sectional diagram shows how the metal contact
screw is mounted so that it makes contact with the aluminium
touchplate. This arrangement is the same for both the main unit
described last month and the extension board. Note the silicone
sealant over the end of the screw and the nut (see text).
www.siliconchip.com.au
The completed dimmer will mount
to a metal wall box where fitted in a
brick wall but it must be spaced from
this using a 30mm or deeper mounting block (otherwise the circuit may
make contact the metal box). It can be
mounted directly to a stud (Gyprock)
wall using standard mounting hardware. Alternatively, it can be placed
on a thin or standard surface-mounting
box.
Once again, begin by checking the
PC board against the published pattern
to ensure there are no shorts between
tracks or any breaks in the copper.
Repair these as necessary.
Now check that the holes are drilled
to the correct size for the larger components. The screw terminal mounting
holes need to be 1.5mm in diameter,
while the PC board mounting holes
and the touchplate connection should
be 3mm in diameter.
The resistors, zener diodes, the di-
Fig.8: here are the circuit diagrams for both the touch-controlled dimmer extension (top) and the simpler pushbutton extension using a mains-rated momentary
switch.
NEUTRAL CURE SILICONE SEALANT
NYLON SCREW
This photo shows
how the contact
screw and nut and
the 4.7MΩ resistor
holes are covered
with neutral cure
silicone sealant. Do
the same for both the
main dimmer board
and for the extension
board shown below.
ode and transistor can now be installed
on the PC board. The parts list shows
the resistor colour codes. Alternatively
use a digital multimeter to measure
each value.
Make sure that the two 4.7MΩ VR37
resistors are placed in the correct
position and don’t substitute for these
components. These are high-voltage
INSULATE INSIDE
RED BORDER WITH
NEUTRAL CURE
SILICONE SEALANT
– SEE TEXT.
NYLON SCREW
The completed touchplate dimmer extension mounted in its Clipsal blank plate.
The lowest terminal on the three-way block is not connected to anything; it is
the equivalent of the “loop” terminal on a conventional light switch. Note that
all exposed metal parts inside the red boarder must be insulated with neutral-cure silicone sealant, as shown in the top photograph.
www.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.9: the PC board parts layout for
the touchplate extension. Note that the
two 4.7MΩ resistors must be Philips
VR37 high-voltage types (do NOT
substitute). They are mounted on the
underside (ie, the copper side) of the
PC board.
February 2002 61
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Parts List: Pusbutton & Touchplate Dimmer Extensions
Pushbutton Extension
1 Clipsal CLI31WE architrave plate
1 Clipsal CLI30MBPRWE ‘Press’ momentary contact switch
Touch Plate Extension
1 PC board, code 10101022, 52 x 72mm
1 Clipsal CLIC2031VXBA blank aluminium plate and blank plate
1 3-way PC screw terminal block (Altronics P 2102 or equiv.)
1 M3 tapped x 6mm metal spacer
2 3mm x 6mm untapped spacers
2 M3 x 16mm countersunk Nylon screws
1 M3 x 15mm countersunk plated metal screw
3 M3 nuts
Neutral cure silicone sealant
Semiconductors
1 BC559 NPN transistor (Q1)
2 6.8V 1W 10% zener diodes (ZD1,ZD2)
1 1N4148, 1N914 signal diode (D1)
Resistors (5%, 0.25W unless stated)
2 4.7MΩ 1W VR37 Philips high voltage resistors (no substitutes)
1 2.2MΩ 0.25W (red red green gold or red red black yellow brown)
1 1MΩ 1% 0.25W (brown black green brown or brown black black yellow brown)
1 220Ω 1W (red red brown gold or red red black black brown)
resistors that are rated at 2.5kV RMS
and are specified for safety reasons.
They are light blue in colour and are
mounted on the underside of the PC
board. Their leads are then cut off
flush with the top surface.
The capacitor can be installed now,
as well as the 3-way terminals. The
mounting screws and the metal contact
screw are installed in exactly the same
manner as for the main dimmer unit.
As before, use neutral-cure silicone
sealant to cover the end of the metal
contact screw, its nut and the ends of
the 4.7MΩ resistors.
Testing
THAT’S RIGHT – buy a 1- or 2-year
subscription to SILICON CHIP magazine and we’ll mail you a free copy
of “Computer Omnibus”.
62 Silicon Chip
Your next step depends on how
confident you are of your construction.
You could install the dimmer in the
wall if you are supremely confident
that you haven’t made any mistakes
but for the rest of us mere mortals, it’s
probably wisest to check the operation
first using a low-voltage AC transformer and a 12V light bulb. This requires
a bit of mucking about but it is the
safest option.
Note that if you don’t go the low
voltage route, the components are live
when it is wired up to the mains and
so the plate must be securely located
onto a wall before power is connected.
By law, you must have a licensed elec-
trician do this for you and of course,
the power must be switched off at the
fusebox to install the unit.
Before installing the unit though,
carry out the following safety check.
Switch your multimeter to its highest
range and measure the resistance
between the Active terminal and the
touchplate contact screw. The resistance should be close to 10MΩ, or there
should be negligible pointer deflection
if you have an analog multimeter.
Do this for both the main dimmer
and for any touchplate extensions.
The test will ensure that there is no
fault at the touchplate. If the circuit
fails this test, check that the correct
value resistors have been used.
The method of connecting up the
circuit using the transformer is shown
in Fig.10. You will need a 12V 1.2W
bulb and a transformer which delivers
about 15V at 200mA or more. We used
a 2155 type and powered it from the
mains via a mains terminal block and
power lead. The earth wire connects
to the transformer body.
Operation of the power supply and
zero voltage detection is provided via
the separate lead connections to the
1kΩ resistor and the 680kΩ resistors
respectively. You will need a 220Ω 1W
resistor for the supply lead connection
to the 1kΩ 5W resistor and the .01µF
www.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.10: this temporary test setup is the way we recommend
you test your dimmer. A couple of components need to be
changed to allow it to operate at low voltage but it’s much
safer than working on a live circuit. As mentioned, this
won’t check the operation of the touch switch but it will
check the infrared remote control functions.
capacitor needs to be changed to a
.001µF (coded 1n0 or 102).
This capacitor will prevent the
phase control running into the next
half cycle due to a shift in the zero
voltage detection point caused by the
lower voltage operation. The range
of phase operation is not the same
as for mains voltage operation but is
sufficient for test purposes.
Note also that the touch input will
not operate with this low AC supply
and any dimming control will need
to be done with the handheld remote
or by momentarily shorting the EXTN
and A terminals together using a momentary switch, or by simply touching
two wires together.
Measure the power supply voltage
at the anode of D2 and the cathode of
ZD1. Note that measuring the zener
www.siliconchip.com.au
diode voltage across ZD1 will give
a reading of around 2V as this diode
is being switched to conduct in the
forward and reverse directions with
the alternating supply voltage. Gate
trigger pulses can be measured at the
point shown. The trigger pulses can
be seen with an oscilloscope, with
locking of the trace set by the line lock
(available in the oscilloscope trigger
options) or by a probe connection to
pin 6 of IC1.
The remote control decode, start/
CORRECTION
The specified Triac in the main
dimmer unit should be an
SC141E 6A 500V Triac (not an
SC141D).
stop and tracer signals are available at
pins 8, 1 and 7 respectively, while the
remote control signal from IC2 can be
monitored at its pin 1 output.
Remember to replace the .001µF
capacitor with the correct .01µF value whent testing is complete, before
operating the dimmer on the mains!
Remote controls
The default setting for the remote
control coding is with both pins 2
& 3 of IC1 connected to the 0V rail.
This sets the code that the dimmer
will respond to as TV1 using the RC5
code system. The following instructions apply to the Jaycar Big Shot 3
and Select 1 preprogrammed infrared
remote controls.
If you are using a different type of
“programmable” infrared controller,
February 2002 63
Specifications
Phase angles (typical)............................ Minimum brightness 152°; maximum brightness 34°
Touch Dimming...................................... < 60ms no change; 60ms-640ms on or off;
.............................................................. > 640ms dimming
Last setting to full brightness................. 2.5s
Dimming rate ........................................ 3s from minimum to full or full to minimum brightness
Dimming steps ...................................... 102 from minimum to full brightness
Soft start ............................................... 340ms from off to full brightness
Remote control...................................... Code options 4 (RC5 code TV1, VCR2, SAT1 and SAT2)
Fast up dimming (CH +) ........................ 2s from minimum to full brightness
Fast down dimming (CH -) .................... 2s from maximum to minimum brightness
Slow up dimming (VOL +) .................... 11.6 seconds from minimum to full brightness
Slow up dimming (VOL -) ..................... 11.6 seconds from full brightness to minimum
Instant off ............................................. Mute
Dimming steps ...................................... 102
Mains frequency lock range .................. 45 to 55Hz
Mains frequency for remote
control to operate .................................. 47.5Hz to 52.5Hz
Triac gate drive ...................................... 80µs at 50mA
Brown out reset voltage for IC1 ............ 4.68V (<at>120VAC mains supply typical)
Maximum lamp wattage......................... 250W
you can find the correct code by trying
the codes in the instructions that apply
to Philips brands of equipment. You
should be able to find one that will
operate the dimmer.
If you are using the Big Shot 3
remote control you need to set it to
code 191. This is done by pressing the
SET and TV buttons together and then
releasing these buttons. The transmit
LED will light. Now enter the number
191 using the number buttons on the
remote control.
The Select 1 remote control must be
set to code 11414. Press both the CODE
and Operate (red) buttons for two seconds and then release them. Enter the
numbers 11414 using the numbered
buttons. The Select 1 remote control
will only operate the dimmer when it
is set for the TV1 code.
The remaining code options using
pins 2 & 3 on IC1 are for use with the
Big Shot 3 or similar remote control.
You only need to use another code if
the TV1 code transmission also operates another remotely controlled item
in your house.
Alternatively, if you have more
than one dimmer in the vicinity, you
can use a different code for each. The
“Code Options” table shows the codes
for each of the options. Changing the
code means that the thin tracks that tie
pins 2 & 3 to the 0V rail may need to
be broken with a knife and resoldered
64 Silicon Chip
to the +5V rail.
For example, the SAT1 code needs
the pin 3 connection to be broken
and soldered to the +5V rail. The Big
Shot 3 transmitter will also need to be
changed to the new code. For SAT1,
press SET and SAT together and then
enter code 424. Note that you do not
need to program the value into the SAT
button selection. It could be entered
using the VCR or TV button selection
instead. To operate the remote dimmer, you need to select the button
(TV, VCR or SAT) that the code was
entered into.
If you select the VCR2 code for the
Big Shot 3, it does have an error in its
transmission for the MUTE function.
We decode this erroneous transmitter
code to provide the Off function for
the dimmer so that the control operates
correctly.
However, the VCR2 coding will
probably not operate on Mute for a
different brand of preprogrammed
transmitter. So it is probably wise
These are the “Select 1” (left) and
“Big Shot 3” remote controls from
Jaycar Electronics. Other remote
controls that can be used include the
Dick Smith Electronics Cat. G1223
and Altronics 8-In-1 (Cat. A1007).
www.siliconchip.com.au
to avoid using this code selection unless the other codes
conflict with other remotely operated equipment.
We did not use the VCR1 coding instead (which has
correct transmission coding for the Mute) because its Mute
code is the same as the Mute code for the TV1 setting. This
is called a punch-through code which allows muting of the
television sound while still set to control the VCR.
Installation
First of all, have you remembered to change that .001µF
capacitor back to 0.01µF? Do it now if you haven’t!
The dimmer circuit is easily installed into an existing
dimmer or switch circuit because the wiring is the same
using the Active (brown or red) and lamp-via-neutral (blue
or black) wires. The extension wiring requires an Active
connection for the extension unit and an extension wire
which connects to the EXTN input on the dimmer. It can
be installed into existing 2-way switch wiring or you can
have an electrician install the wiring if this is not already
present.
The loop terminals on the dimmer and extension are free
to terminate any wires that require connecting together
but are not part of the light switching. This is to duplicate
the loop terminal provided on standard light switches. We
PLEASE NOTE!
These codes suit the two recommended infrared remote
controls. Other controls may work but the code setting
options may be different. You will need to set the codes
accordingly.
show below the typical 2-way switch wiring and how to
wire up the extension to the dimmer. You can use either
a momentary contact switch or the extension touchplate
dimmer to provide dimming from a remote position. The
momentary switch can be used in an architrave switch
surround, making it easier for installation where space is
limited such as in a door surround.
Note that the dimmer plate normally runs just warm
to the touch, due to the dissipation within the Triac and
inductor when it is driving the lamp, the 1kΩ 5W resistor,
the zener diode and any losses in the 0.1µF and 0.47µF
mains capacitors.
The remote control must be directed toward the receiver
on the main dimmer plate to obtain reliable operation. We
obtained a reliable 7m control range for our prototype. SC
This circuit operates on the 240V AC mains and
most parts of the circuit are at mains potential
and therefore DANGEROUS. Furthermore, installation into fixed wiring can only be undertaken by
licensed electricians under
current legislation in most states.
This is the Clipsal CLIC2031VXBA blank plate (above)
which we used for the dimmer and extension circuits.
Fig.11: the top diagram shows typical 2-way domestic light switch wiring, with two conductors between
the switches. Installing 2-way dimmers should allow
the existing cabling to be used, albeit rearranged. The
momentary contact switch must be mains rated and of
robust construction.
www.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.12: this is the full-size PC board artwork for the
dimmer extension. The main PC board pattern was
published last month.
February 2002 65
A couple of months
ago (December
2001), we
introduced you to
the “PIC FUN”
concept by
Adelaide company,
eLabtronics. Now,
as promised, we’re
going to put PIC
FUN to work by
turning it into a
4-way timer.
4-Way Event/Race/
Anything Timer
W
HAT’S A 4-WAY TIMER? It’s
a device capable of digitally
timing up to four different
or related events at once. Slot cars on
a race track, for example; or the first
four sprinters in a race; the reaction
times of four people of various states
of sobriety (don’t laugh – it’s quite a
legitimate test!); school physics experiments. And so on.
By the way, we’re not suggesting
those last two be combined!
It’s accurate to 1/100th of a second
so it is quite a useful device in its
own right. And it counts up to 99.99
seconds – more than 1.5 minutes – so
again it is very useful.
There are many more examples of
where timers could be used – perhaps
right now you’re thinking of a pet
project which lends itself perfectly.
Starting and stopping the timer is
very easy using the Reset switch and
the four pushbutton switches (S1-S4)
situated on the lid of the box. But to
make switching the timer on and off
even more convenient, you can also
use (prebuilt) infrared light beam
relays for each of the four inputs.
Whenever the light beam is cut, the
counter stops.
As versatile as this system is,
though, there will be places where
you need different types of inputs.
With just a tiny bit of ingenuity, these
switches or light beam relays could
be replaced with a whole host of electronic and/or mechanical “inputs” to
make the unit do exactly what you
want to do.
What sort of ingenuity? Perhaps it
could be a pressure pad in a “gate”
through which runners have to pass.
Perhaps it could be as simple (and
cheap!) as an external pushbutton
switch. The switches are normally
open so you can parallel them to your
heart’s content!
You get the picture, we’re sure. All
that is required to trigger the software
is a 5V positive-going pulse.
Software
Software? We hadn’t mentioned that
yet! Of course, much of the software
resides in the PIC microcontroller – it
does the vast majority of the “housekeeping” of the unit. But there is other
software which comes on a CD-ROM
and allows the PICFUN2 Timer to be
By ROSS TESTER
66 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
used in conjunction with your PC,
recording and saving information from
the various timer inputs. We’ll look at
this much more closely in a moment.
Extra hardware
In the meantime let’s get back to the
PICFUN2 Timer itself.
We don’t propose to go over the
PICFUN2 PC board and its operation
again – we covered that in the December issue. This time, we’ll concentrate
on what you have to do to build PICFUN2 Timer.
From the basic PICFUN2 board
described in December, the following
has been added:
(a) PORTA has extra terminal blocks
and resistors for external connection.
This allows all five ports of PORTA to
be accessed for external wiring.
(b) Five switches have been added
to connect to PORTA. This allows direct access to the ports for testing and
other functions such as reset/start or
possible menu selections on the LCD.
(c) Five connectors have been added
to PORTA. This allows external devices to be connected to the PORTA pins
via a sturdy connector. The power pins
(+5V and 0V) are provided for external
sensor power.
(d) A 7805 5V regulator allows extra
loads on the power supply, such as
external sensors on the connectors,
while maintaining a stable 5V supply.
(e) A clock crystal: for accurate
1/100s timing, a clock crystal with a
frequency which is divisible by a base
2 number to 100Hz is critical.
(f) An 16 x 2 line alphanumeric LCD
display. A standard LCD module is
connected to seven lines of PORTB.
The eighth port (with the seventh
port) is used for programming and/or
PC communications.
(g) A box has been used to mount the
parts – it all fits neatly into a standard
size box.
Inside the box
Most of the real estate in the box is
taken by the PICFUN2 board. It is in
fact a little simpler than the earlier
PICFUN2 project because the output
devices are mostly removed. They’re
replaced by an LCD (liquid crystal
display) module which mounts on the
lid of the box.
Also on the lid are the four pushbutton switches previously mentioned
and a master (reset) switch.
Four 4-pin sockets (for the infrared
www.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the circuit is based on the basic PICFUN2 kit described in the
December 2001 issue but includes extra switches, connectors, a crystal
(for accurate timing), a 5V regulator and an LCD to display the timing
results.
February 2002 67
beam relays or other start/stop devices) are mounted on the back panel
of the box while on the front is a DC
power socket, a 9-pin “D” socket (for
connection to your PC), a slider switch
(toggles between program
ming and
68 Silicon Chip
reading modes) and another 4-pin
socket which can be used to “cascade” another PICFUN2 counter (or
more).
Power, by the way, is provided by a
12V DC plugpack, which is supplied
with the PICFUN Timer kit.
Construction
Most of the components which go
on the PC board for this project are
resistors – and most of these are one of
www.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: follow this diagram to assemble the PC board and complete the
wiring of the 4-Way Event Timer.
Note that the LCD module is modified by adding a trimpot and a 220Ω
1W resistor, as shown in the detail
below.
This close-up view of the rear of the LCD module shows how the 220Ω 1W resistor, the multi-turn trimpot and the ribbon cable are installed. These parts can
all be secured to the back of the module using hot-melt glue.
two values – 12 x 390Ω and 11 x 10kΩ
ohms. Solder these resistors in first,
followed by the only other resistor on
the board, a 10Ω unit.
There are five capacitors. One 22pF
capacitor (in the timing circuit) and
www.siliconchip.com.au
one 0.1µF actually solder to the back
of the board while the remainder, all
associated with the power supply,
are in normal positions on the top
side. The semiconductor complement
(ignoring the microcontroller for a
moment) is four diodes, one transistor
and the 5V regulator. Make sure all the
polarised components go in the right
way around.
Solder in the crystal and the PC
board mounting terminal blocks (1 x
3-way and 2 x 2-way which interlock
to form 1 x 7-way). Finally, solder
in the header pin socket (used to
connect to the LCD) and the 18-pin
PIC socket. Don’t put the PIC in just
yet – leave it until the board has been
checked out.
There is one above-board link (insulated thin hookup wire) from the
regulator to the header pin socket for
which no real provision is made. It
solders directly to the output pin of the
regulator (righthand most pin looking
at the front) and solders to an empty
pad immediately alongside the header
pin socket.
Similarly, a connection must be
made from the same point to a 4-pin
connector (CON3) mounted on the
rear panel.
The 9-pin D connector solders
directly to the PC board and pokes
through a hole in the front panel,
while the DC socket and the program/
run switch both connect via suitable
lengths of hookup wire to their respective positions. The wires on the
switch, in particular, need only be very
short as they connect to the PC board
immediately underneath.
The switch itself is held on the front
panel by Araldite, hot-melt or other
suitable glue.
Before we move on to the LCD
module, there are a fair number of
interconnections to be made between
the PC-mounted terminals, the 4-pin
sockets and the pushbutton switches.
These are made with suitable lengths
of fine hookup wire – follow the wiring
diagram exactly and you shouldn’t get
into too much difficulty.
The LCD module
There are some modifications necessary to the module. A 220Ω 1W
resistor needs to be glued to the back
of the board to allow it to run from
12V. Also a multi-turn trimpot is glued
onto the board, as is a length of ribbon
cable which connects the module to
PICFUN2 (see photograph and the
detail diagram in Fig.2).
This terminates in a header pin plug
at the PICFUN2 end but each wire
must be soldered to its appropriate position at the LCD module end. Follow
the diagram exactly – some pads on the
module are not soldered at all while
one wire must cross over its partners
to go to the right place.
The multi-turn trimpot we mentioned before is connected to two of
the same pads as the ribbon cable
and to one other pad by short lengths
of hookup wire. This pot varies the
contrast of the LCD which also affects
the viewing angle.
When you’ve finished soldering
the wires in place, secure the trimpot
and the ribbon cable to the board with
Araldite or hot melt glue. And then
February 2002 69
That means the timer is ready to rock
and roll.
All you have to do to start it is hit the
“reset” button and you’ll see the counter start, counting up in 1/100 seconds.
Hit any of the four stop buttons and
the display should halt (even though
the counter is still running) with the
exact time you pressed the button and
the button itself nominated: “39.84
seconds – Stop4”
Press any of the other buttons and
a similar message appears – the time
of stopping and the button identified.
The infrared sensors
You don’t have to worry about building the infrared transmitter/receivers,
as they are supplied already built and
tested. All you have to do is plug them
into the appropriate 4-pin socket.
You can use one, two, three or four
of these units, depending on your application. Two are supplied with the
kit.
The transmitter and receiver must
be aligned with each other so that they
operate, and the beam must be where
it will be cut by the person or thing
you are timing.
Press the alignment switch on the
Receiver Unit and adjust the angle of
the units to get the maximum intensity
on the red LED. The units are now
aligned. Release the switch and the
sensor is now ready to use.
Reprogramming the PIC
This is the view inside the completed timer. The PIC chip is supplied pre-programmed so the unit should work first time if everything is correct.
similarly glue the LCD module into its
place inside the case lid so the display
can be seen through the cutout.
is, so let’s see if it works (after checking
your wiring, of course).
Put in the PIC!
The PIC chip is supplied pre-programmed so the unit should work
first time if everything is correct.
Because there are pushbutton “Start”
switches and a similar “Reset” switch
mounted on the case, you don’t have
to plug the remote triggering infrared
devices in to check it out. And that’s
pretty important, because we haven’t
yet mentioned the remote triggering
infrared devices!
Plug your 12V DC plugpack in
and you should be rewarded with a
message that says “00.00 seconds”.
The final thing to do, once you’ve
checked and double-checked your
component placement and wiring, is
to carefully insert the PIC chip into
its socket. Make sure the notch on
one end of the PIC lines up with the
notch on the end of the socket – and
also make sure that all pins of the PIC
go into the socket, not bent underneath
or splayed out (it’s easy to do, trust
us!).
The construction side of the project
is now completed. You can use it as it
70 Silicon Chip
Testing
While the PIC comes pre-programm
ed, provision is made (via the D9
connector and the run/program switch
JP1) to reprogram the chip at a later
time if you manage to erase it (pretty
difficult to do accidentally!) or if you
are particularly clever and write your
own code to make it do even more
things. It’s also possible that eLabtron
ics will also have updated software
available (check out their website at
www.labtron.com.au).
The original eTIMER.hex file is
provided on the CD supplied with the
kit, just in case.
LCD software
The LCD software is an assembler,
or “ASM” file, which will compile and
run directly on the PICFUN2 without
modification. One of the features of
this software is that the structure
enables the user to keep a list of
messages which can be easily called
within the main program. Similarly,
www.siliconchip.com.au
the command set is listed and can also
be easily called up.
PC interface software
We mentioned earlier that the PICFUN Timer can be also used in conjunction with your PC. In fact, in this
mode, its capabilities are significantly
extended. Just some of the applications
available are as a counter, a timer or
even a quiz game timer which keeps
scores.
Before you start, make sure your
display properties setting in Windows
is set to SMALL FONTS (otherwise
the window may not fit the screen
properly).
To set up the system for “Interface-To-PC”, run setup from the CD.
Plug the 9-pin female-to-female cable
into the serial (COM) port on your PC
but not yet into the PICFUN Timer
socket. Make a note of the COM port
you are using.
Also beware of using male-to-female
cables with gender changers. These
may not always be “straight through”
connections which this project requires.
Once setup is completed go to
your Windows Start menu, click on
program and click on eTimer. The welcome window shown should appear.
Click on the Welcome button, select
the COM port you are using and then
click on OK.
The default program which will
load is the Quiz Game but you can
change to the Infrared Timer or
Counter by clicking on the OPTIONS
menu and selecting the appropriate
icon.
If the interface software is running
properly, unplug everything from the
PICFUN Timer (including power)
and slide the programming switch
up, towards the top of the box. Plug
in the cable from your PC (it should
still be connected to the PC) and then
plug in power.
Hold down the RESET button while
sliding the programming switch
DOWN towards the bottom of the unit.
The message “PC Interface” should
now appear on the LCD display and
your PICFUN Timer is now ready to
run in the Interface-To-PC mode.
In all three modes of operation, you
can enter the “players” names into
your PC according to which button
numbers they are holding. You can
add or subtract their points, plot the
results on a graph and even save the
www.siliconchip.com.au
The run/program switch (JP1) is mounted on the rear panel to allow you to
reprogram or update the PIC microcontroller at any time.
Here’s the welcome screen (left) that you’ll see when you load the CD-ROM,
along with the port selection screen (on the right).
records in an Excel file.
After all the player’s names have
been entered, press the START button.
(In the Infrared Timer mode, the start
can be made with a start sensor; eg,
the start of a slot car race). The timer
will start counting.
When a player switch is press
ed
(or a race sensor triggered), the time
counted for that player will stop while
others will continue counting until
SC
their switch/sensor is closed.
Where To Buy A Kit
The PICFUN Timer is available from eLabtronics, 12-20 Gilles St, Adelaide,
SA 5000. Phone (08) 8231 5966. Website www.labtron.com.au
Prices are as follows:
eTIMER Kit (includes PICFUN2 Kit, LCD Kit, extra parts,
plugpack and software) ..................................................................$138.00
Built & tested eTIMER with two sets of IR sensors ........................$198.00
Extra set of IR sensors (built & tested receiver & transmitter) ..........$48.00
LCD Kit (ready to plug in, with ribbon cable and software).............. $46.00
February 2002 71
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
Farnell offers many more choices for business
Every business has different needs.
Farnell Electronics have created a
choice of flexible, user-friendly access
and ordering options to meet the particular requirements of every business.
Easy-to-use
catalog
The new
3-volume 2002
Farnell catalog is
straightforward
and simple to use,
with clear product photographs,
comprehensive technical information
and at-a-glance pricing module. It is
divided into easy-to-handle books
with alphabetical product categories,
colour coded section indicators and
various indexing combinations, which
include prices and order coded indexes, to promote easy navigation.
To receive your free copy, call Farnell on 1300 361 005
Website: www.farnell.com
The Farnell website has the following new features:
· Quick browsing and powerful
search engines take you straight to the
product and information you want.
· Full product range with technical
data and secure online ordering.
· Regular special offers, new products and the latest company news.
· Dedicated section for designers
with useful tips and recommendations.
· Online stock checking: build orders and return to them anytime, as
well as check if a product is in stock
before placing your order.
· Send orders internally for authorization before submitting.
· To speed up repeat orders, web
order history is stored for reference.
· Datasheets available for instant
download.
· Links with manufacturers, key
institutes, official bodies and technical
publications.
Connect CD-ROM
The Connect CD-ROM is Farnell’s
offline product search solution and
order processing system. Its features
include:
· A powerful search facility with
reference to catalog page numbers.
· Build orders, return to them anytime and check if a product is in stock
before you order.
· Use alone or with your own network and order via email or fax.
· Receive electronic updates of new
products when you place an order.
· Operates as a complete stock
control and audit package if required.
· Group together ‘kits’ with parts
that are always ordered together and
in the same relative quantities.
· Import and export data to and from
other systems.
· Use Connect to input, search, print
off and track information from other
suppliers.
· Associate Farnell codes with your
own part numbers for ease of use.
Convenient Trade Counter
Visit the walk-in Trade Counter at
the Sydney Distribution Center (72
Ferndell St, Chester Hill). Open from
7:30am – 6:00pm (AEST), Monday –
Friday.
Just call ahead to pick up your order.
Or you can order and pay at the counter
by cash, credit card or account. Your
order will be processed promptly and
your goods will be picked and packed
while you wait. Farnell are committed
to providing exceptional service backed
by the help and support you need.
eProcurement
eProcurement through a web-site,
digital purchasing tool or customised
eProcurement system, can dramatically
reduce procurement costs and increase
the speed and efficiency of purchasing
processes in businesses of any size.
Farnell’s flexible approach to
eProc-urement means they can help
you to utilise these benefits, regardless
of your technology of choice. Farnell
has immense expertise in this area and
have been working with ‘best-of-breed’
software partners, to bring customers a
wide range of eProcurement solutions
to perfectly fit their requirements.
Australia Call 1300 361 005
New Zealand Call 0800 90 80 80
Federal Court says Duracell’s Bunny Race Ads Unfair
Duracell’s “Bunny Race” advertisements, aired heavily in the weeks
before Christmas, showing their pink
rabbit winning a race across the desert
against three other rabbits powered
with non-Duracell batteries has been
ruled misleading and deceptive by
Justice Conti in the Federal Court of
Australia.
With claims such as “Duracell always wins”, the advertisements were
found to be in breach of the Trade
Practices Act because consumers
would understand from the advert
that Duracell batteries were three
72 Silicon Chip
times longer-lasting than all other batteries – a claim not capable of being
substantiated.
Eveready (Energizer batteries) took
the action against Gillette (Duracell
batteries) because they believed that
the advert was not comparing “like with
like”.
Duracell argued that the comparison
was between their highest-performance
alkaline cell and Eveready’s standard
(ie, non-alkaline) black cell (only the
5th most powerful cell in their range)
and that consumers would understand
the difference because of wording in
frames of the ad.
Justice Conti ruled that the advert
was misleading for a number of reasons; not the least because no mention was made of the significant price
disparity between the battery types.
Consumers would have expected
Duracell to use comparable performing cells in the Energizer range for
their comparison. The use of different
grades of batteries, not disclosed to
viewers, was misleading.
Energizer obtained a permanent
injunction against the adverts being
shown again.
www.siliconchip.com.au
Tektronix closes its
Australian operation; appoints NewTek as Australian
distributor
US-based test equipment, video
and telecommunications market
leader Tektronix Inc has decided
to “pull the plug” on its Australian
operation.
However, the Tektronix name
will not be lost with a new company, NewTek Sales Pty Ltd, appointed as Tektronix Australian
distributors.
NewTek was formed by former
staffers of Tektronix Australia to
promote the range ofTektronix test
and measurement products, continuing the excellent acceptance
of the strong brand of Tektronix.
“The establishment of NewTek Sales Pty Ltd by former staff
members of Tektronix Australia
will allow a seamless transition
of customer knowledge and follow
through of current opportunities,”
said Peter Roan, the founding
Managing Director. “It is very
important from Tektronix management’s point of view that minimum disruption occur to valued
customers,” said Roan.
All Tektronix products formerly
sold by Tektronix Australia will be
available from the new distributor.
Directors of the new company
include Alan Richards who is
assuming responsibility for promotion of the telecomms products
and Des Harrison is managing the
video products.
Another new (associated) company, NewTek Support Pty Ltd,
has been formed to provide service
and calibration for all Tek-tronix
products, including older and
obsolete models which Tektronix
Australia did not cover.
NewTek Sales and NewTek Support will operate from premises in
North Ryde, Sydney.
Contact:
NewTek Sales Pty Ltd
33 Paul St, North Ryde NSW 2113
Phone: (02) 9888 0100
Fax (02) 9888 0125
Website: www.newteksales.com
www.newteksupport.com
www.siliconchip.com.au
Central Coast Field Day
One last reminder: February 24th is the
date for the Central Coast Amateur Radio
Club’s annual Field Day at Wyong, NSW.
You can view, participate in, listen to,
buy, swap and sell all facets of amateur
radio, CB radio, shortwave listening and
scanning, computer communications,
project building, vintage and historical
displays and of course, the famous flea
market, disposals areas (truckloads of
pre-loved equipment!) and trade/commercial shows.
Throughout the day there will be
seminars and workshops covering many
interesting subjects.
For more information call 02 4340 2500
or visit www.ccarc.org.au
AUDIO MODULES
broadcast quality
Manufactured in Australia
Harbuch Electronics Pty Ltd
9/40 Leighton Pl. HORNSBY 2077
Ph (02) 9476-5854 Fx (02) 9476-3231
Quick-Mark: the answer to a labelling dilemma?
Many readers produce their own PC
boards but often come unstuck when
it comes to professional-looking labels
and panels.
Now you can make your own labels
and signs by photographic transfer,
without messy developing chemicals.
Quick-Mark is a range of presensitised
imaging film and pre-coated base
sheets. It is ideal for making front
panels for use in prototypes or low-volume runs, from computer-generated
originals.
It is exposed to UV light through
artwork, then peeled apart giving both
a positive and negative image. One or
other is then laminated to a self-adhesive Quick-Mark base sheet.
An optional over-lamination film
can be applied for further protection
or to change the appearance of the
panel. This film is available in gloss,
matte or Lexan polycarbonate finish.
Possible colour combinations are
extensive with seven imaging film
colours, nine plastic base sheet colours and two aluminium base sheets,
including gold anodised. The material
is supplied in 305 x 508mm sheets,
which can be cut to size before processing.
The Quick-Mark materials are
available through Computronics Corporation, the same people who supply
the Kinsten do-it-yourself PC board
materials (see SILICON CHIP, March
2001 for more information on making
your own PC boards).
If the Quick-Mark system works half
as well as the Kinsten system (and we
hope to have an article on this subject
in the next couple of months) then the
problem of making your own panels,
labels and signs has been well and
truly solved. Stay tuned for further
details!
Contact:
Computronics Corporation Ltd
Locked Bag 20,
Bentley Business Centre WA 6983
Ph: 08 9470 1177 Fax: 08 9470 2844
Website: www.computronics.com.au
February 2002 73
Knock knock . . .
I know who’s there!
With this Video Intercom System
from Jaycar Electronics you can see
who’s at the door or even the front gate
before you let them in!
The system consists of a small
external unit which houses a black
& white CCD camera, speaker & microphone. It also has built-in infrared
illumination to let you see visitors at
night.
The internal unit houses the 4-inch
monitor, handset and control buttons.
The intercom doubles as a doorbell.
When a visitor presses the button the
bell sounds and the monitor switches
on. You can then talk to the caller and
can even unlock the door remotely
with the optional electric door strike.
The system includes a 10 metre long
interconnecting cable and plugpack
power supply.
With a recommended retail price
of $269, the Cat QC-3412 Video Intercom System is available at all Jaycar
Electronics stores and through their
mail order and on-line ordering services.
Contact:
Jaycar Electronics
100 Silverwater Rd, Silverwater NSW 2128
Phone: (02) 9741 8555
Fax (02) 9741 8500
Website: www.jaycar.com.au
New 1mm thick inductors: “world’s thinnest”
Coilcraft has
introduced a
range of “Power Wafer” induc-tors which
are claimed to
have the world’s
lowest profile:
just 1mm thick
and a footprint
of 6.6 x 5.5mm.
They are said to be ideal for
size-critical applications such as PC
cards, PDAs, notebook computers,
mobile phones and other handheld
products.
There are 16 models in the se-
Nilsen’s “SITEPRO”
UPS
For mission-critical
applications, Nilsen
Technologies has a
range of true voltage and
frequency-independent
Uninterruptible Power
Supplies ranging from
10 - 40kVA.
Rated at unity power
factor and with redundant parallel
architecture, the SITEPRO is said to
deliver more active power than any
other UPS on the market and to be
the most cost efficient and reliable
UPS available.
The SITEPRO units measure 680 x
800 x 1450mm and, with standard batteries, weigh between 380 and 750kg,
depending on the model.
Contact:
Nilsen Technologies
Phone: 1800 623 350
Fax: 1800 067 263
Website: www.nilsen.com.au
Motorcycle Alarm kits now available
We have been advised by Mick
Gergos, the author of the Motorcycle
Alarm (SILICON CHIP January 2002)
that he now has kits for this project
available.
The kit includes the pre-programmed microprocessor, PC board
and a quality non-position sensitive
shock sensor. It does not include the
siren as this is dependent on the type
of ’bike and room available for mount74 Silicon Chip
ing. Price of the kit is $49.50(inc GST)
plus $5.00 P&P.
Contact:
Mick Gergos
13 Bunya St,
Bushland Beach, Qld 4818
email: micwen<at>tpg.com.au
ries, with inductance
ranging from 1µH to
330µH and current
ratings up to 3.6A
rms.
Designers can obtain an evaluation kit
containing all 16 values via the company’s
website.
Contact:
Coilcraft Europe
21 Napier Place, Wardpark North,
Cumbernauld, Scotland G68 0LL
Phone: +44 1236 730627
Website: www.coilcraft.com
Want a battery?
Here’s great value!
We spotted this in our local DSE
store just before Christmas and thought
at the time, “What a great idea!”
It’s a re-usable plastic storage case (a
la a tool box) which contains a useful
range of alkaline batteries – 12 x AA,
8 x AAA, 6 x C and 4 x D size. You’ll
never run out of batteries again!
The batteries are DSE’s own “Digitor” brand, suitable for a wide
range of high-drain electronic equipment. They contain no added mercury.
Purchased separately, the price of
the batteries alone would be sure to
exceed the $39.47 price tag – and you
get the case/toolbox thrown in.
The Digitor Alkaline Battery Pack
is available from all Dick Smith Electronics stores, DSE PowerHouse stores,
via mail order or through the DSE
website.
Contact:
Dick Smith Electronics
2 Davidson St, Chullora NSW 2190
Ph: 02 9642 9100 Fax: 02 9642 9153
Website: www.dse.com.au
www.siliconchip.com.au
You wouldn't read about it . . .
The things we do: tall tales – but true!
Then there was the reader who called about a
project he was building. During the conversation he
revealed he was deaf in one ear – ever since he lost
his $2500 hearing aid.
“Lost”, we asked?
“Yeah, well a few weeks ago I’d had a couple too
many so decided to go to bed early. I took me hearing
aid out and placed it on the bedside table. Then I remembered I’d forgotten to take me pills – big buggers,
they are too. Except this night I recall thinking they
were a bit bigger than I remembered. Mebbe two were
stuck together. I put it down to the grog, except I was
darned if I could find me hearing aid next morning . . .”
And what about this one (it’s not original – it came
off a newsgroup – but we’ve just gotta tell it!): the
bloke who decided to upgrade his computer CPU – a
Celeron (socket 370) to an Athlon XP1900.
Just in case you didn’t know, the Athlon has more
pins than a Celeron: a lot more.
Try as he might, this poor guy couldn't get the new
chip to fit the Socket 370. And that was even after
trying to bash it into submission. Literally bash it!
So what did our resourceful chap do? Simple: he
just carefully cut off all those “excess” pins which
wouldn’t fit into the socket holes. Ahh, now it fitted.
No, the chip was not covered by warranty . . .
IN YOUR NEXT
*
SILICON
CHIP
High Power 12V Amp
Would you believe 50W output from a 12V supply? It’s
easy to build, too . . .
Itty Bitty USB Lamp
Need some light? Nifty, bright
little lamp plugs into your
computer’s USB port. Simple!
6-Channel Infrared Volume Controller
Specifically intended for home theatre and similar applications: now you can have full remote control of all channels.
RIAA preamp for modern amplifiers
Most modern amps don’t have a “phono” input. But many
people still want to play those old records . . .
* These projects are currently planned for March SILICON CHIP,
due on sale 27/02/02. Issue content may vary by press time.
www.siliconchip.com.au
February 2002 75
Want to boot a PC without a keyboard but
it refuses unless the keyboard is connected?
You can usually overcome this problem by
altering a BIOS setting but not all BIOSes let
you do that. Here’s a simple low-cost way to
“fake” the keyboard and make the PC boot.
By GREG SWAIN
T
here are many situations where
it’s convenient to have a PC running without a keyboard or
monitor connected. For example, you
might have a network PC that functions as a dedicated Internet gateway
or as a file and printer server. Or perhaps you have an old PC that controls
a watering system or security lights
around your home.
In those cases, you usually leave the
PC running continuously – perhaps
stacked on a shelf or tucked out of
sight in a cupboard or in the garage.
And because the machine isn’t being
accessed, you don’t want a keyboard
or monitor hogging valuable space.
Nearly all PCs will boot without a
monitor but will “hang” if there’s no
keyboard. Fortunately, that’s usually
easy to fix – just go to the main menu
in the BIOS setup and change the “Halt
On [All Errors]” setting to “Halt On
[No Errors]”.
That way, when the machine starts
to boot, it will ignore any errors that
are detected during the boot process,
such as a missing keyboard.
This keyboard incorporates the key contacts, scanning matrix and control circuitry all on one large PC board. In this case, it’s just a matter of cutting out the
control circuitry (inside the dotted yellow line) and discarding the rest.
76 Silicon Chip
The BIOS is usually accessed
by pressing the “Delete” key when
prompted, just after the computer has
completed its POST (Power-On Self
Test) routine. In some cases, however, you have to press the F1 key or
some other key to access the BIOS,
although this is usually confined to
older machines.
No BIOS setting
OK, that’s the easy way of doing
it. But what if no “Halt On” setting
is included in the system BIOS, as in
some older (and not so old) machines?
In that case, the only way around the
problem – short of hanging a real
keyboard out the back – is to use a
“dummy” keyboard.
It’s quite simple really – just obtain a
defunct keyboard, “rat” the electronic
circuit board from it, whack it in a
small case complete with the cable,
plug it into the PC and Bob’s your
aunt. The bulky keyboard that you
were hoarding “just in case it came
in handy” can then be chucked in the
bin (where it really belongs).
As long as the PC “sees” the relevant return codes from the keyboard
circuitry, it will think that a real keyboard has been connected and will
boot up.
Of course, this assumes that the
circuitry itself is OK. Fortunately, this
is almost always the case – it’s the key
contacts that usually fail. Either that,
or the keyboard becomes so grotty and
full of muck that it’s replaced rather
than cleaned.
By the way, the “dummy” keyboard
idea isn’t ours. We originally saw it
posted on the local aus.electronics
newsgroup by Franc Zabkar and
pinched it – with Franc’s blessing.
Removing the PC board
Usually, the circuit board is quite
www.siliconchip.com.au
This keyboard has the control circuitry on
a separate small PC board and it’s easily
removed by undoing two screws.
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Once the screws have been
removed, the key matrix
membrane is unplugged from
the edge connectors on the PC
board.
After removing the PC board, it was
necessary to reattach the cable braid
(which provides shielding) to the earth
track using a 6BA machine screw,
washer and nut (shown arrowed).
compact (it’s invari
ably based on a
single chip) and it has an edge connector for a key matrix membrane.
You don’t need any of the keys, so it’s
just a matter of removing the keyboard
back, undoing a couple of screws to
remove the circuit board and unplugging the key matrix membrane. The
NUM Lock, Caps Lock and Scroll
Lock indicator LEDs can also be removed.
You should be left with the circuit
board itself plus the cord that’s conwww.siliconchip.com.au
nects it to the PC. This can then be
housed in a small plastic case, fitted
into a plastic tube or, if it’s small
enough, encapsulated in some heatshrink tubing.
Any excess cord can either be
stuffed into the case with the circuit
board or neatly coiled up and secured
with tape or cable ties.
The board’s too big
Instead of a key-contact membrane,
many early keyboards were based on
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installing and setting up computer
networks, hard disk drive upgrades,
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February 2002 77
VGA Pin Connections
The board was too long to fit into the case we wanted to use, so we cut it in half using a
hacksaw (cunning, what?). The two sections were then joined using rainbow cable. Note
that we only needed a 4-way cable for this – the tracks running off to the edge connectors
for the key matrix aren’t required, so they don’t need to be joined.
one large PC board which included
all the circuitry plus the key contacts
and scanning matrix – see photo. In
this case, it’s simply a matter of using
a hacksaw to cut away the wanted
section containing just the electronics.
It’s really just a matter of using your
commonsense as to what you keep.
Obviously, you need to keep the chip
plus all the circuitry (including the
supply tracks) between it and the cord.
You don’t need anything that runs off
to the keys or to the indicator LEDs. If
an AT/XT switch is present, leave it in
place and switch it to the AT position.
Practising what’s preached
To demonstrate how easy it all is,
we ratted an old AT/XT keyboard. Its
circuit board proved a bit too long for
the small case that we wanted to use
so we cut it in half using a hacksaw
and then joined the two halves using
some rainbow cable.
This allowed the two halves to be
(REAR OF PLUG)
15
14
13
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
2
75
1
75
folded over and squashed into the
case, with some heatshrink tubing
over one section to prevent shorts.
A slot cut into one of the case ends
provided the exit for the cord which
was neatly coiled up and secured with
a few cable ties.
What about a monitor?
It’s only rare that not having a monitor causes boot problems but some
old VGA video cards (eg, Trident) can
The thin section of board was insulated using heatshrink
tubing and “folded” back over the main section. The cord
exits through a slot cut into one end of the case.
78 Silicon Chip
75
3
Fig.1: three 75Ω
resistors wired
to the back of a
DB15 VGA plug is
the cure if the PC
won’t boot without
a monitor.
Pin
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
Connection
R ed
Green/Mono
B l ue
R-Gnd
G-Gnd
B-Gnd
Gnd
Gnd (C ol our)
Hor. Sync
Ver t. Sync
-
be fussy. Franc Zabkar’s suggestion
here is to connect three 75Ω resistors
between each of the RGB outputs and
their respective grounds.
The above table shows the pinouts
for the VGA connector, while Fig.1
shows how the three resistors are wired
across the back of the plug. You can
pick up a DB15 VGA plug (plus plastic
shell) from an electronics supplier for
a few dollars or scrounge one for “nix”
SC
from a defunct monitor.
At 120 x 60 x 28mm, the dummy keyboard is a lot smaller
than the real thing. It can be affixed to the back of the PC
(eg, using Velcro) or perhaps even hidden inside the PC.
www.siliconchip.com.au
ROBOT BUILDERS BARGAIN!!!
GOSFORD AMATEUR
RADIO FIELD DAY
RADIO CONTROL CAR / TRUCK REAR AXLE (DIFERENTIAL)
ASSEMBLEY Complete assembly from a model car differential /
In the early part of this year we will be gearbox and a 380 motor (Nom. 7.2V). The overall width is
moving our warehouse to a new location. approx. 24cm. Good quality brand new unit as used in some
We have a large quantity of odd and Tandy electric cars. We have a good quantity in stock for a small
fraction of their retail price - $11 each. Add $2 for units with wheels.
limited stock items that must be sold.
Type supplied
Only at the Gosford field day .
may differ
This will be our biggest sale ever. from the
Sun. 24th FEB at Wyong racecourse near the station. one shown.
(NEW) 40X2 Hyundai LCD's
These 40´2 LCD module are new and manufactured
by Hyundai. Standard Hitachi chipset. No backlight.
PCB size is 180mm x 35mm Check the following
website for more information:
http://www.allamerican.com/direct/results.asp?SH
OW=50&MFG=_HYNL, .$25 each (limited quantity)
140 LED IR ILLUMINATOR KIT:
For Night Viewers or CCD Cameras
using 140 of our 880nm / 40° IR leds
which have 35mW output. These leds
have a forward voltage drop of 1.65V
& a water clear lens. The kit uses an
LDR and switches on when it gets dark
or can be controlled by an alarm system.
Kit includes PCB and all on-board components. The case is not supplied. Operates
from 12V DC and consumes approximately 1.4A. KIT WITH 35
LEDS: (K138) $25 - KIT PRICE WITH 140 LEDS: (K138C) $67
(NEW) 20X2 LCD BACKLIT DISPLAY:
Optrex #DMC2059, (data is available for similar 20 x
2 displays). 6mm x 8mm characters, 122mm wide x
30mm high. PCB dimensions 151mm wide x 56mm
high. Uses standard Hitachi chipset (HD44780) with
LED back-light (DL8) $11 each or 3 for $27
BOSTON ACOUSTICS
(NEW) OPTO 22 Relay I/O Module
Relays by APTech in Japan. AC Output is 24-280
VAC, with 5 VDC Logic. Check for more
information at:.. http://www.opto22.com/Ordering/
ProductDrillDown.asp?IK=182\
$ 8 each
AS REVIEWED IN THIS MAGAZINE
ULTRA-VIOLET LEDS!!!
LEDS AND
LASERS
395nM UV LED's...
200mCD
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Blue LED's
3.5CD
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White LED's
6CD
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10CD
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15CD
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650nM LASER MODULES
3mW
$18
6mW
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10mW
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CLOCK / CALENDAR KIT:
This kit is a 12 hour clock can also be used as a
timer. Features include large (13mm) Green LED
display, AM-PM LED, Date, Month, 24 hour Alarm,
59 minute sleep timer & Back- up battery. Kit is
crystal controlled to 50Hz (20ms) so it can also be
used for CRO calibration & inverters. Can switch an
external load during the alarm
or timer ( 0.5A load directly
or 10A with an additional
mosfet). Alarm piezo
speaker provided.
Operates from
12V DC. PCB &
all on-board
components kit.
(K136) $15
9
6
$1
Tektronix K1205 Protocol Analyser:
This Portable unit (7KK121PM11) is in excellent
condition and it looks like it has never been used
before. This Protocol Tester comes with basic
software (which include Microsoft WindowsNT) for
monitoring application, unlimited license for
monitoring links, Celeron CPU, user manual and
bunch of cables. Complete with VGA-compatible
colour screen, keyboard and disk drive. Interfaces
include SCSI, Ethernet for 10Base-2 and 10Base-T,
two serial ports and one parallel port. It also has an
E1/DS1 Interface Board PRIME for Narrowband
Interfaces. This Protocol Analysers provide
powerful monitoring tools for your signalling
network. Dimension: 370mm 290mm 200mm.
Weight: 20kg (with the case). Check the following
website for more information:
http://www.tektronix.com. $ 12200 (1 only)
(Used) The Citizen iDP3530 Printer:
These Printers are in excellent condition and are
made in Japan. They come with basic software, a
Brand New Paper roll and a Ribbon. The Citizen
printer is a rugged Point of Sale Printer with a serial
interface. It is capable of being used on a wide
variety of hardware
platforms, not confined to
a standard PC. This opens
up a range of other uses,
such as capturing call
details on a PABX, logging data from a Weather
Station or recording the
performance of a Solar
Water Heater. Any
equipment with a
standard RS232 port
is capable of utilising this
printer. $99
$99
(NEW) HYUNDAI FLASH MEMORY IC:
Organized as 512K x 8 bits.
The 32pin surface mount
HY29F040 IC has been
assembled on a larger PCB
that has 0.1" pin spacing
(32 pins in total): (GMEM1)
$6 each
(NEW) UPS12-310 High Rate Series Batteries:
These are Valve Regulated Lead Acid Batteries for
UPS Standby Power Applications. These are around
2 years old but in very good condition. 12V (6
Cells/unit), Capacity is 88AH <at> 20 hr rate and 330
watts/cell <at> 15 min. rate. (Some 100AH available
POA). These batteries features Flame-arresting oneway pressure-relief vent , thermally shielded case-tocover bond to eliminate leakage, multicell design for
economy of installation & maintenance and can be
mounted in any orientation
Dimensions 300mm
170mm 210mm.
Weight 30 kg. Check for
more information at:
http://www.powerfactorinc.
com/Batteries/johnson_
control.htm. $ 99
(limited quantity)
CAMBRIDGE SOUNDWORKS COMPUTER SPEAKERS
We have a limited quantity of these Cambridge SoundWorks
GCS300 Computer Speakers. These are Brand New in original
packaging that includes two speakers with power supply, cables,
and manual.
Response: 90 - 20kHz...
Amplifier Gain: 12dB <at>
1KHz volume max...
Output Power: 92 dB SPL at .
5m listening position...
Power (each satellite):
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Input Impedance:
10K ohms...
Controls: On/off/master volume on right speaker...
Weight: 1.5Kg per speaker set including adapter...
Dimension:153X101X114mm..(GCS300): $22 - limited quantity.
SOLAR REGULATOR KIT: (Intelligent Charger).CLEARANCE!!!
Designed to efficiently charge 12 - 24V up to 16A,batteries from solar panels,
W e h a v e m o r e u s e d t e s t can also be used in with existing simple car battery chargers (such as the
equipment. we need to clear some common Arlec 4A chargers) to prevent overcharging. Simply turns off the
to make way for the next lot. But charging current when the battery float voltage is exceeded, turns on when
the battery voltage drops a preset amount below the float voltage. Easily
you may have already missed it. modified for higher currents. Has negligible standby current. PCB: 149 x
The only way to make sure you 66mm. PUBLISHED: EA Nov / Dec94.(K009) $20
don’t is to subscribe to our bargain BATTERY MANAGEMENT SYSTEM KIT:
corner & receive advanced notice This kit can be configured to measure 12V or 24V
Just send us a blank E-Mail to.... batteries. Features include low voltage cut-out & an
b a r g a i n c o r n e r - s u b s c r i b e audible alarm before cut-out. This monitor is designed
<at> o a t l e y e l e c t r o n i c s . c o m to use minimal power & has a battery saving 12 led
bar-graph indicator. This kit can be used to monitor
power & battery levels in a car, boat, caravan or home.
Kit includes PCB, all on-board components & a paper
label. The plastic case is not supplied. PUBLISHED: EA
Magazine February 2000. KIT PRICE: (K141) $32
MORE NEW STOCK
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www.siliconchip.com.au
ebruary
2002 79
www.oatleyelectronics.com Orders: Ph ( 02 ) 9584 3563, Fax 9584 3561, sales<at>oatleyelectronics.com, PO BoxF89
Oatley NSW
2223
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SC_FEB_02
VINTAGE RADIO
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
The Diason P.P. 32/6 DC receiver
Designed for rural communities, the Diason
P.P.32/6 employed six valves and ran off 32V DC.
It was a good performer with some interesting
design features.
Many will not know the Diason
brand, as Diason Radio was a small
family company and was not a major
player in the 1950s domestic marketplace. They produced a couple of
portable receiv
ers, one exclusively
battery operated and another a battery/
AC model in 1950. In addition, they
produced three DC-powered receivers
– the 32/6, 50/6 and 110/6 – in the
same year.
80 Silicon Chip
The 32/6 and 50/6 were virtually
identical except for the way the heaters
were wired in these 32V and 50V DC
receivers. The 110V (model 110/6)
receiver used the same heater wiring
circuitry as the 50/6 but employed
12V heater series valves instead of
the 6V series. For example, a 12SK7
was used in lieu of a 6SK7, while the
audio output valve was a 50L6 instead
of a 25L6. The high tension (HT) to the
plates and screens came directly from
the supply voltage, as was common
with some Astor 32V receivers.
Just how well these near identical
receivers worked would be interesting
to know. The gain of each stage with
32V HT would not be very high, so
even with a radio frequency (RF) stage
and two intermediate frequency (IF)
stages, the set would have been quite
stable despite the minimal use of decoupling throughout the set.
With higher voltages, the gain
would have increased and I suspect
that the higher voltage sets could be
quite unstable. Additionally, the bias
on the 25L6 (50L6 in 110V set) was
only -1.5V, as supplied by a dry cell.
www.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the Diason P.P. 32/6 is a 6-valve receiver that runs off 32V DC. The
first stage of the 6SL7 operates as an audio amplifier, while the second
stage functions as a phase splitter. This in turn feeds two 35L6 valves
operating as a push-pull audio output stage.
On 32V, this would have been quite
adequate but with 110V on the plate
and screen of the 50L6, the bias should
have been -7.5V.
In the standard format that is shown
in the Australian Official Radio Service Manual (AORSM) Volume 9 for
1950, I believe the higher voltage sets
would have been absolute disasters.
For this reason, I suspect that either
no 50V or 110V sets were produced or
if they were, the circuit was altered to
overcome the problems of the higher
voltage supply.
A worthy successor
The successor to the 32/6 (50/6 and
110/6) receiver was the interesting 32V
DC-operated P.P.32/6 model of 1953.
This set overcame the very real faults
that were evident in the previous models. Some time ago, I had an opportunity to examine one of these later sets,
which belonged to Ralph Robertson,
a fellow member of the Vintage Radio
Club in northeast Victoria.
It is noticeably better in design than
the earlier models and there is no sign
of instability – just good performance.
It uses a 6SK7 RF stage, a 6A8G converter and a 6AR7 IF amplifier and
detector. This then drives a 6SL7 audio
amplifier and phase splitter, which in
turn feeds two 35L6 valves operating
as a push-pull audio output stage.
This general circuit layout is inherently quite stable with a low HT
www.siliconchip.com.au
The chassis is easily removed from the cabinet for service, although the loudspeaker also has to be removed since its leads are too short.
supply, as the gain of each individual
stage is relatively low. There is some
gain at RF frequencies, some at the
converter and some at the IF frequency.
However, the receiver does not have a
lot of gain within any one frequency
range, although the total gain throughout the receiver when the gain of all
stages is totalled up is quite significant.
The low-level audio stages have
quite reasonable gain and feed the
push-pull 35L6 valves. A single
class-A 35L6 would be struggling to
provide enough audio output to satisfy
listeners, since the output would only
be in the order of 100-150mW. With
two push-pull valves, the audio output
is more than doubled.
Radio Corporation’s Astor receivers
also used two 25L6 valves (similar to
the 35L6) operating in push-pull in
February 2002 81
This under-chassis view shows just how few components there are. This made
for a reliable set that’s very easy to work on.
the audio output stages of their 32V
HT receivers.
Restoring the PP 32/6
When Ralph obtained his radio, it
was in rather a sorry state. The 6A8G
and 6SL7 valves were missing and
the loudspeaker had been damaged
when someone had carelessly put the
chassis back in the cabinet, putting
the volume control spindle through
the cone in the process. Admittedly,
the set’s physical layout is at fault in
allowing this to occur.
The loudspeaker is attached to the
cabinet and its leads are too short to
allow the chassis to be withdrawn
easily. Additionally, it is not practical
to work on the set with the speaker in
the cabinet. The leads can be extended or the speaker removed from the
set to allow service as shown in the
accompanying photograph (extending
the leads is my preference).
After removing the chassis, both
it and the inside of the cabinet were
cleaned. Fortunately, this was not a
particularly difficult job as there had
been no rodents as house guests.
Inspection of the underside of
the chassis didn’t reveal any paper
capacitors sufficiently leaky to warrant replacement. They must have
been a good batch – either that or the
low HT doesn’t stress the capacitors
as much as in a set with higher HT
82 Silicon Chip
voltages. And of course, there would
not be much heat generated under the
chassis.
Even so, I would still replace the
most critical capacitors, these being
C9 and C13 in this set.
The twin power lead was fitted with
a 2-pin polarised plug. It’s interesting
to note that many DC sets were fitted
initially with the normal 3-pin mains
plug and, as a result, many 32V sets
have been plugged into the 240V AC
mains with disastrous results. People
forget that voltages other than 240V
AC were often used in earlier times.
Typically, the owners of secondhand shops, eager to see if the sets
work, plug them into the 240V AC.
Hopefully, a fuse blows and no further
damage is done.
No other components proved defective in Ralph’s set so it was time to
give it a test run. It was connected to
a 32V DC supply but it soon became
evident that the set was not well.
Checking revealed that one 35L6 had
no emission and a replacement soon
had the audio section up and running.
The voltages around the receiver
were then checked and found to be
in order. So what voltages do you expect in a radio with a 32V HT supply?
The plates and screens of all valves
other than the 6SL7 should be 32V;
the cathodes of the 6SK7 and 6A8G
should be about 1V; and the cathodes
of the 35L6 valves should be around
1.5V with respect to chassis. Pin 2 of
the 6SL7 should be around 15-20V, pin
6 about 8V and pin 5 approximately
24V. There are no high voltages here!
Aligning the receiver
The alignment procedure for this
type of set is quite straightforward.
First, the IF is aligned with a signal
from a generator on 455kHz. A digital multimeter (DMM) set to the 20V
DC range and connected across the
volume control or C9 will read higher
voltages as the IF alignment is peaked.
The oscillator, RF and aerial coil cores
are adjusted for peak output at around
600kHz and the trimmers (not shown
on the circuit diagram) are adjusted
at around 1450 kHz or, in each case,
on a known station near to these
frequencies. Stations 3RN (3AR) on
621kHz and 2QN on 1521kHz can be
used where I live.
One problem with the alignment
is that the dial scale remains in the
cabinet when the chassis is removed.
In cases like that, I tend to close the
gang and adjust the oscillator so that
the receiver will tune 530kHz and then
adjust it at the other end of the dial so
that it will tune to 1620kHz. The dial
scale itself will give you some idea of
what the tuning range actually is.
To get the oscillator tracking accurately across the band, it will be
necessary to put the chassis in and
take it out of the cabinet a few times
while doing the adjustments – a tediwww.siliconchip.com.au
There’s plenty of room for the chassis inside the cabinet. In this case, the twin
power lead was fitted with a 2-pin polarised plug but many early DC sets were
initially fitted with a 3-pin mains plug. As a result, many 32V sets have been
plugged into the 240V AC mains with disastrous results.
ous job. The aerial and RF circuits can
be adjusted out of the cabinet as their
adjustments do not affect the accuracy
of the oscillator tuning.
By the way, the latter job is made
more difficult because the dial pointer
is about 15mm behind the dial scale
so there can be considerable parallax
error.
Having completed the restoration,
the set proved to be quite a good performer and is well-suited for use in
country areas, away from broadcast
stations.
Shortcomings and features
The set is designed to have the negative side of the 32V supply attached
to the chassis. However, the fuse is in
the negative line so, under some circumstances, the fuse could blow and
the set would still be supplied via the
set’s earth system (assuming that one
side of the 32V supply was earthed). It
would have been a better idea to have
placed the fuse in the positive line.
Having said that, one interesting
feature is the use of C1. This capacitor would prevent “burn out” of the
aerial coil if the antenna fell across the
live +32V line from the lighting plant
(most 32V supplies on farms used bare
overhead cables).
It is odd that incorrect component
values are often used in receivers. The
series dropping resistor for the dial
lamps (R15) is 100Ω but for use on
32V, this should be 127Ω, otherwise
the dials lamps will each have more
than 6.3V across them. What’s more,
K&W HEATSINK EXTRUSION. SEE OUR WEBSITE FOR
THE COMPLETE OFF THE SHELF RANGE.
www.siliconchip.com.au
February 2002 83
Photo Gallery: Astor Model JN
Manufactured by Radio Corporation (Melbourne) in 1948, the Astor Model
JN is a 6-valve dual-wave superhet housed in a substantial Bakelite cabinet and fitted with an 8-inch (200mm) loudspeaker. The combination of the
large loudspeaker and an effective loudness compensation circuit around
the volume control resulted in good audio performance, for which Astor
sets were renowned. The set was fitted with the following valves: 6U7-G
RF amplifier; 6J8-G frequency changer; 6U7-G IF amplifier; 6B6-G first
audio/detector/AVC rectifier; 6V6-G output; and 5Y3-F rectifier. (Photo and
information courtesy of Historical Radio Society of Australia).
a 32V set of batteries on charge can
reach 40V, so even 127Ω is too low .
In fact, R15 should be around 180Ω.
And although a 20W resistor is used,
a 10W unit would be quite adequate
for the job.
Conversely, R16 should be lower at
around 23Ω for use off 32V. However,
most better quality 32V sets used a
3-position power switch instead of
the 2-position switch used in this set.
The first position was “off, while the
second position was “charge”. In the
latter case, a resistor was switched
in series with the supply to drop the
voltage to the valve filaments to around
32V when the batteries were on charge.
However, with the set connected to
a set of charging batteries it doesn’t
matter if the valve plates and screens
do get 40V – they’ll just perform more
effectively.
The third position of the power
switch was “on”, where the 32V was
connected directly to the valves.
There are no trimmer capacitors
shown on the circuit but they are fitted
nonetheless. The fixed capacitors inside the IF transformers are not shown
either and neither are the adjustment
cores for the IF transformers or the
front-end coils.
Another oddity is that the circuit
shows the set as having one 35L6 valve
in the output and one 35LG. The latter
is simply a drafting error – the valve is
in reality a 35L6. The valves probably
all had the suffix GT.
At this stage, the cabinet has not
been restored although it has been
cleaned. The cabinet itself is quite
light, being made of relatively thin
veneered plywood.
Summary
AWA TEACHING AID
Made by AWA during the 1960s, this device was designed to teach radio technology students how valves worked. The valve envelopes were large so that
students could easily see the various parts that made up the two valves (one a
triode, the other a CRT) on top of the chassis.
84 Silicon Chip
The set is a good performer and was
quite suitable for use by the farming
community. However, I suspect that
it would have been prone to picking
up commutator whine from the 32V
lighting plant when it was charging
batteries or, for that matter, from any
small motor attached to the 32V supply. That’s because there is absolutely
no filtering of the 32V rail before it is
applied to the valve plates and screens,
other than for the 6SL7.
However, the set works well when
powered from a 32V DC filtered power supply (eg, as described on p88 of
the January 2001 issue). If you like
collecting 32V sets, this one deserves
SC
a place in your collection.
www.siliconchip.com.au
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Here's an exciting new concept from SILICON CHIP: you can access any of these organisations instantly by going
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Your company or business can be a part of SILICON CHIP’s WebLINK. For one low rate you receive a printed entry
each month on the SILICON CHIP WebLINK page with your home page graphic, company name, phone, fax and site
details plus up to 50 words of description– and this is repeated on the WebLINK page on the SILICON CHIP website
with the link of your choice active. Get those extra hits on your site from the right people in the electronics industry – the people who make decisions to buy your products. Call David Polkinghorne today on (02) 9979 5644
VAF Research offers Speakers for the
Audiophile Purist or Home Theatre Extremist.
Home Entertainment Equipment and
Accessories. They have ready-to-assemble
loudspeaker kits along with quality drivers
from the world's leading suppliers.
VAF Research Pty Ltd
Tel: 1800 818 882 Fax: (08) 8363 9997
WebLINK: www.vaf.com.au
JED designs and manufactures a range of
single board computers (based on Wilke Tiger
and Atmel AVR), as well as LCD displays and
analog and digital I/O for PCs and controllers.
JED also makes a PC PROM programmer
and RS232/RS485 converters.
Jed Microprocessors Pty Ltd
Tel: (03) 9762 3588 Fax: (03) 9762 5499
Looking for GENUINE Stamp products from
Parallax . . . or Scott Edwards Electronics,
microEngineering Labs & others?
Easy to learn, easy to use, sophisticated CPU
based controllers & peripherals. See our
website for new range of ATOM products!
Hy-Q International Pty Ltd
MicroZed Computers
Fax: (03) 9562 9009
WebLINK: www.hy-q.com.au
Tel: (02) 6772 2777 Fax: (02) 6772 8987
WebLINK: www.microzed.com.au
When it comes to purchasing quality products over the Web, you can count on
the Wiltronics team to provide you with
the best value for money. For over 25
years, Wiltronics has supplied the needs
of the Electronics Industry, and look
forward to continuing this service.
ALLTAC INTERNATIONAL P/L
Tel : (02) 9411 3088 Fax : (02) 9412 1855
WebLINK: www.jedmicro.com.au
A 100% Australian owned company supplying
frequency control products to the highest
international standards: filters, DIL’s, voltage,
temperature compensated and oven controlled oscillators, monolithic and discrete
filters and ceramic filters and resonators.
Tel:(03) 9562-8222
We stock varieties of hard to find selectors, cables
and adaptors, and as well home theatre all at competitive prices. We believe lines between computer,
networking, home theatre and video editing are
becoming blurred these days. Please call us if you
need any help in this aspect.
WebLINK: www.alltac.com.au
International satellite TV reception in your
home is now affordable. Send for your free
info pack containing equipment catalog,
satellite lists, etc or call for appointment
to view. We can display all satellites from
76.5° to 180°.
Wiltronics Pty Ltd
Tel: (03) 9762 3588 Fax: (03) 9762 5499
WebLINK: www.wiltronics.com.au
For everything in radio control for aircraft,
model boats and planes, etc. We also carry
an extensive range of model flight control
modules including GPS, altitude and speed,
interfaces, autopilot and groundstation
controllers. More info on our website!
Av-COMM Pty Ltd
Tel:(02) 9939 4377 Fax: (02) 9939 4376
WebLINK: www.avcomm.com.au
WebLINK: www.silvertone.com.au
VGS2
Graphics
Splitter
NEW!
HC-5 hi-res Vid
eo
Distribution
Amplifier
DVS5
Video & Audio
Distribution
Amplifier
Five identical Video and Stereo outputs
plus h/phone & monitor out. S-Video &
Composite versions available.
Professional quality.
Silvertone Electronics
Tel:(07) 4639 1100 Fax: (07)4639 1275
For broadcast, audiovisual and film industries.
Wide bandwidth, high output and unconditional stability with hum-cancelling circuitry,
front-panel video gain and cable eq adjustments. 240V AC, 120V AC or 24V DC.
High resolution 1in/2out VGA splitter.
Comes with 1.5m HQ cable and 12V
supply. Custom-length HQ VGA
cables also available.
Check our NEW website for latest prices and MONTHLY
SPECIALS
www.questronix.com.au
Email: questav<at>questronix.com.au
Video Processors, Colour Correctors, Stabilisers, TBC’s, Converters, etc.
www.siliconchip.com.au
www.siliconchip.com.au
QUESTRONIX
All mail: PO Box 348, Woy Woy NSW 2256
Ph (02) 4343 1970 Fax (02) 4341 2795
Visitors by appointment only
February
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By John Linsley Hood. First published 1995.
Second edition 1999.
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UNDERSTANDING TELEPHONE
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Fourth edition published 2001
4th
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Based mainly on the American telephone
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GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY
3rd
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By Eugene Trundle. 3rd Edition 2001
Eugene Trundle has written for many years in
Television magazine and his latest book is
right up to date on TV and video technology.
The book includes both theory and practical
servicing information and is ideal for both
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382 pages, in paperback.
This book is for anyone involved in designing,
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1992. 3rd edition 2001.
By Ian Hickman. 2nd edition1999.
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necessary tools, test equipment and materials
needed by installers... 178 pages in soft cover.
86 Silicon Chip
EMC FOR PRODUCT DESIGNERS
ANALOG ELECTRONICS
Essential reading for electronics designers and
students alike. It will answer nagging questions
about core analog theory and design principles as
well as offering practical design ideas. With
concise design implementations, with many of
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VIDEO & CAMCORDER SERVICING
AND TECHNOLOGY
by Steve Roberts. 2nd edition 2001.
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Widely regarded as the standard text on EMC,
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by Steve Beeching (Published 2001)
Provides fully up-to-date coverage of the whole
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318 pages in soft cover.
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An easy-to-follow, step-by-step
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can create a very complicated
power supply design . Magnetics,
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by T H Wilmshurst. Published 2001.
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Free software CD included. 253 pages in paperback.
Electric Motors And Drives
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GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY............................$63.00
PIC - YOUR PERSONAL INTRODUCTORY COURSE........$43.00
TELEPHONE INSTALLATION HANDBOOK.......................$67.00
UNDERSTANDING TELEPHONE ELECTRONICS.................$65.00
VIDEO & CAMCORDER SERVICING/TECHNOLOGY........$67.00
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by Austin Hughes.
2nd edition 1993. Reprinted 2001.
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Silicon Chip
Back Issues
February 1994: Build A 90-Second Message Recorder; 12-240VAC
200W Inverter; 0.5W Audio Amplifier; 3A 40V Adjustable Power Supply; Engine Management, Pt.5; Airbags In Cars – How They Work.
April 1989: Auxiliary Brake Light Flasher; What You Need to Know
About Capacitors; 32-Band Graphic Equaliser, Pt.2.
Ultrasonic Switch For Mains Appliances; The Basics Of A/D & D/A
Conversion; Plotting The Course Of Thunderstorms.
May 1989: Build A Synthesised Tom-Tom; Biofeedback Monitor
For Your PC; Simple Stub Filter For Suppressing TV Interference.
October 1991: Build A Talking Voltmeter For Your PC, Pt.1;
SteamSound Simulator For Model Railways Mk.II; Magnetic
Field Strength Meter; Digital Altimeter For Gliders, Pt.2; Military
Applications Of R/C Aircraft.
July 1989: Exhaust Gas Monitor; Experimental Mains Hum Sniffers;
Compact Ultrasonic Car Alarm; The NSW 86 Class Electrics.
September 1989: 2-Chip Portable AM Stereo Radio Pt.1; High
Or Low Fluid Level Detector; Studio Series 20-Band Stereo
Equaliser, Pt.2.
November 1991: Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.1; A Junkbox
2-Valve Receiver; Flashing Alarm Light For Cars; Digital Altimeter
For Gliders, Pt.3; Build A Talking Voltmeter For Your PC, Pt.2.
March 1994: Intelligent IR Remote Controller; 50W (LM3876)
Audio Amplifier Module; Level Crossing Detector For Model
Railways; Voice Activated Switch For FM Microphones; Engine
Management, Pt.6.
April 1994: Sound & Lights For Model Railway Level Crossings;
Discrete Dual Supply Voltage Regulator; Universal Stereo Preamplifier; Digital Water Tank Gauge; Engine Management, Pt.7.
May 1994: Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries; Induction Balance Metal
Locator; Multi-Channel Infrared Remote Control; Dual Electronic
Dice; Simple Servo Driver Circuits; Engine Management, Pt.8.
June 1994: 200W/350W Mosfet Amplifier Module; A Coolant Level
Alarm For Your Car; 80-Metre AM/CW Transmitter For Amateurs;
Converting Phono Inputs To Line Inputs; PC-Based Nicad Battery
Monitor; Engine Management, Pt.9.
October 1989: FM Radio Intercom For Motorbikes Pt.1; GaAsFet
Preamplifier For Amateur TV; 2-Chip Portable AM Stereo Radio, Pt.2.
December 1991: TV Transmitter For VCRs With UHF Modulators;
Infrared Light Beam Relay; Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.2;
Index To Volume 4.
November 1989: Radfax Decoder For Your PC (Displays Fax, RTTY
& Morse); FM Radio Intercom For Motorbikes, Pt.2; 2-Chip Portable
AM Stereo Radio, Pt.3; Floppy Disk Drive Formats & Options.
March 1992: TV Transmitter For VHF VCRs; Thermostatic Switch
For Car Radiator Fans; Coping With Damaged Computer Directories;
Valve Substitution In Vintage Radios.
January 1990: High Quality Sine/Square Oscillator; Service Tips
For Your VCR; Phone Patch For Radio Amateurs; Active Antenna
Kit; Designing UHF Transmitter Stages.
April 1992: IR Remote Control For Model Railroads; Differential
Input Buffer For CROs; Understanding Computer Memory; Aligning
Vintage Radio Receivers, Pt.1.
February 1990: A 16-Channel Mixing Desk; Build A High Quality
Audio Oscillator, Pt.2; The Incredible Hot Canaries; Random Wire
Antenna Tuner For 6 Metres; Phone Patch For Radio Amateurs, Pt.2.
June 1992: Multi-Station Headset Intercom, Pt.1; Video Switcher
For Camcorders & VCRs; IR Remote Control For Model Railroads,
Pt.3; 15-Watt 12-240V Inverter; A Look At Hard Disk Drives.
September 1994: Automatic Discharger For Nicad Battery Packs;
MiniVox Voice Operated Relay; Image Intensified Night Viewer; AM
Radio For Weather Beacons; Dual Diversity Tuner For FM Microphones, Pt.2; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.12.
March 1990: Delay Unit For Automatic Antennas; Workout Timer
For Aerobics Classes; 16-Channel Mixing Desk, Pt.2; Using The
UC3906 SLA Battery Charger IC.
October 1992: 2kW 24VDC - 240VAC Sinewave Inverter; Multi-Sector Home Burglar Alarm, Pt.2; Mini Amplifier For Personal Stereos;
A Regulated Lead-Acid Battery Charger.
April 1990: Dual Tracking ±50V Power Supply; Voice-Operated
Switch With Delayed Audio; 16-Channel Mixing Desk, Pt.3; Active
CW Filter.
February 1993: Three Projects For Model Railroads; Low Fuel
Indicator For Cars; Audio Level/VU Meter (LED Readout); An Electronic Cockroach; 2kW 24VDC To 240VAC Sinewave Inverter, Pt.5.
October 1994: How Dolby Surround Sound Works; Dual Rail
Variable Power Supply; Build A Talking Headlight Reminder;
Electronic Ballast For Fluorescent Lights; Electronic Engine
Management, Pt.13.
June 1990: Multi-Sector Home Burglar Alarm; Build A Low-Noise
Universal Stereo Preamplifier; Load Protector For Power Supplies.
March 1993: Solar Charger For 12V Batteries; Alarm-Triggered
Security Camera; Reaction Trainer; Audio Mixer for Camcorders;
A 24-Hour Sidereal Clock For Astronomers.
July 1990: Digital Sine/Square Generator, Pt.1 (covers 0-500kHz);
Burglar Alarm Keypad & Combination Lock; Build A Simple Electronic Die; A Low-Cost Dual Power Supply.
August 1990: High Stability UHF Remote Transmitter; Universal
Safety Timer For Mains Appliances (9 Minutes); Horace The Electronic Cricket; Digital Sine/Square Generator, Pt.2.
September 1990: A Low-Cost 3-Digit Counter Module; Build A Simple Shortwave Converter For The 2-Metre Band; The Care & Feeding
Of Nicad Battery Packs (Getting The Most From Nicad Batteries).
October 1990: The Dangers of PCBs; Low-Cost Siren For Burglar
Alarms; Dimming Controls For The Discolight; Surfsound Simulator;
DC Offset For DMMs; NE602 Converter Circuits.
April 1993: Solar-Powered Electric Fence; Audio Power Meter;
Three-Function Home Weather Station; 12VDC To 70VDC Converter;
Digital Clock With Battery Back-Up.
June 1993: AM Radio Trainer, Pt.1; Remote Control For The Woofer
Stopper; Digital Voltmeter For Cars; Windows-Based Logic Analyser.
July 1993: Single Chip Message Recorder; Light Beam Relay
Extender; AM Radio Trainer, Pt.2; Quiz Game Adjudicator; Windows-Based Logic Analyser, Pt.2; Antenna Tuners – Why They
Are Useful.
August 1993: Low-Cost Colour Video Fader; 60-LED Brake Light Array; Microprocessor-Based Sidereal Clock; Satellites & Their Orbits.
November 1990: Connecting Two TV Sets To One VCR; Build An Egg
Timer; Low-Cost Model Train Controller; 1.5V To 9V DC Converter;
Introduction To Digital Electronics; A 6-Metre Amateur Transmitter.
September 1993: Automatic Nicad Battery Charger/Discharger; Stereo Preamplifier With IR Remote Control, Pt.1; In-Circuit Transistor
Tester; +5V to ±15V DC Converter; Remote-Controlled Cockroach.
January 1991: Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries, Pt.1; Have Fun With
The Fruit Machine (Simple Poker Machine); Build A Two-Tone Alarm
Module; The Dangers of Servicing Microwave Ovens.
October 1993: Courtesy Light Switch-Off Timer For Cars; Wireless
Microphone For Musicians; Stereo Preamplifier With IR Remote
Control, Pt.2; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.1.
March 1991: Transistor Beta Tester Mk.2; A Synthesised AM Stereo
Tuner, Pt.2; Multi-Purpose I/O Board For PC-Compatibles; Universal
Wideband RF Preamplifier For Amateur Radio & TV.
November 1993: High Efficiency Inverter For Fluorescent Tubes;
Stereo Preamplifier With IR Remote Control, Pt.3; Siren Sound Generator; Engine Management, Pt.2; Experiments For Games Cards.
May 1991: 13.5V 25A Power Supply For Transceivers; Stereo Audio
Expander; Fluorescent Light Simulator For Model Railways; How
To Install Multiple TV Outlets, Pt.1.
December 1993: Remote Controller For Garage Doors; Build A
LED Stroboscope; Build A 25W Audio Amplifier Module; A 1-Chip
Melody Generator; Engine Management, Pt.3; Index To Volume 6.
July 1991: Loudspeaker Protector For Stereo Amplifiers; 4-Channel
Lighting Desk, Pt.2; How To Install Multiple TV Outlets, Pt.2; Tuning
In To Satellite TV, Pt.2.
January 1994: 3A 40V Variable Power Supply; Solar Panel
Switching Regulator; Printer Status Indicator; Mini Drill Speed
Controller; Stepper Motor Controller; Active Filter Design; Engine
Management, Pt.4.
September 1991: Digital Altimeter For Gliders & Ultralights;
July 1994: Build A 4-Bay Bow-Tie UHF TV Antenna; PreChamp
2-Transistor Preamplifier; Steam Train Whistle & Diesel Horn Simulator; 6V SLA Battery Charger; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.10.
August 1994: High-Power Dimmer For Incandescent Lights;
Microprocessor-Controlled Morse Keyer; Dual Diversity Tuner
For FM Microphones, Pt.1; Nicad Zapper (For Resurrecting Nicad
Batteries); Electronic Engine Management, Pt.11.
November 1994: Dry Cell Battery Rejuvenator; Novel Alphanumeric
Clock; 80-Metre DSB Amateur Transmitter; Twin-Cell Nicad Discharger (See May 1993); How To Plot Patterns Direct to PC Boards.
December 1994: Easy-To-Build Car Burglar Alarm; Three-Spot
Low Distortion Sinewave Oscillator; Clifford – A Pesky Electronic
Cricket; Remote Control System for Models, Pt.1; Index to Vol.7.
January 1995: Sun Tracker For Solar Panels; Battery Saver For
Torches; Dolby Pro-Logic Surround Sound Decoder, Pt.2; Dual
Channel UHF Remote Control; Stereo Microphone Preamplifier.
February 1995: 2 x 50W Stereo Amplifier Module; Digital Effects
Unit For Musicians; 6-Channel Thermometer With LCD Readout;
Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers, Pt.1; Oil Change Timer
For Cars; Remote Control System For Models, Pt.2.
March 1995: 2 x 50W Stereo Amplifier, Pt.1; Subcarrier Decoder
For FM Receivers; Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers, Pt.2;
IR Illuminator For CCD Cameras; Remote Control System For
Models, Pt.3.
April 1995: FM Radio Trainer, Pt.1; Photographic Timer For Dark
rooms; Balanced Microphone Preamp. & Line Filter; 50W/Channel
Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2; Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers, Pt.3;
8-Channel Decoder For Radio Remote Control.
May 1995: Build A Guitar Headphone Amplifier; FM Radio Trainer,
Pt.2; Transistor/Mosfet Tester For DMMs; A 16-Channel Decoder
For Radio Remote Control; Introduction to Satellite TV.
June 1995: Build A Satellite TV Receiver; Train Detector For Model
Railways; 1W Audio Amplifier Trainer; Low-Cost Video Security
System; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter For Models, Pt.1.
July 1995: Electric Fence Controller; How To Run Two Trains On
A Single Track (Incl. Lights & Sound); Setting Up A Satellite TV
Ground Station; Build A Reliable Door Minder.
August 1995: Fuel Injector Monitor For Cars; Gain Controlled
Microphone Preamp; Audio Lab PC-Controlled Test Instrument,
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Pt.1; How To Identify IDE Hard Disk Drive Parameters.
September 1995: Railpower Mk.2 Walkaround Throttle For Model
Railways, Pt.1; Keypad Combination Lock; The Vader Voice; Jacob’s
Ladder Display; Audio Lab PC-Controlled Test Instrument, Pt.2.
October 1995: 3-Way Loudspeaker System; Railpower Mk.2
Walkaround Throttle For Model Railways, Pt.2; Build A Fast Charger
For Nicad Batteries.
November 1995: Mixture Display For Fuel Injected Cars; CB Trans
verter For The 80M Amateur Band, Pt.1; PIR Movement Detector.
December 1995: Engine Immobiliser; 5-Band Equaliser; CB Transverter For The 80M Amateur Band, Pt.2; Subwoofer Controller;
Knock Sensing In Cars; Index To Volume 8.
January 1996: Surround Sound Mixer & Decoder, Pt.1; Magnetic
Card Reader; Build An Automatic Sprinkler Controller; IR Remote
Control For The Railpower Mk.2; Recharging Nicad Batteries For
Long Life.
April 1996: Cheap Battery Refills For Mobile Phones; 125W Audio
Amplifier Module; Knock Indicator For Leaded Petrol Engines;
Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter; Pt.3.
May 1996: Upgrading The CPU In Your PC; High Voltage Insulation
Tester; Knightrider Bi-Directional LED Chaser; Simple Duplex
Intercom Using Fibre Optic Cable; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.3.
June 1996: BassBox CAD Loudspeaker Software Reviewed; Stereo
Simulator (uses delay chip); Rope Light Chaser; Low Ohms Tester
For Your DMM; Automatic 10A Battery Charger.
July 1996: Build A VGA Digital Oscilloscope, Pt.1; Remote Control
Extender For VCRs; 2A SLA Battery Charger; 3-Band Parametric
Equaliser; Single Channel 8-Bit Data Logger.
For Stepper Motor Cards; Understanding Electric Lighting Pt.2;
Index To Vol.10.
January 1998: Build Your Own 4-Channel Lightshow, Pt.1 (runs off
12VDC or 12VAC); Command Control System For Model Railways,
Pt.1; Pan Controller For CCD Cameras.
February 1998: Multi-Purpose Fast Battery Charger, Pt.1;
Telephone Exchange Simulator For Testing; Command Control
System For Model Railways, Pt.2; Build Your Own 4-Channel
Lightshow, Pt.2.
April 1998: Automatic Garage Door Opener, Pt.1; 40V 8A Adjustable
Power Supply, Pt.1; PC-Controlled 0-30kHz Sinewave Generator;
Build A Laser Light Show; Understanding Electric Lighting; Pt.6.
May 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.1; Build A 3-LED Logic
Probe; Automatic Garage Door Opener, Pt.2; Command Control
For Model Railways, Pt.4; 40V 8A Adjustable Power Supply, Pt.2.
June 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.2; Universal High Energy
Ignition System; The Roadies’ Friend Cable Tester; Universal Stepper
Motor Controller; Command Control For Model Railways, Pt.5.
July 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.3; 15-W/Ch Class-A
Audio Amplifier, Pt.1; Simple Charger For 6V & 12V SLA Batteries; Automatic Semiconductor Analyser; Understanding Electric
Lighting, Pt.8.
August 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.4 (Adding Extra Memory); Simple I/O Card With Automatic Data Logging; Build A Beat
Triggered Strobe; 15-W/Ch Class-A Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2.
September 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.5; A Blocked Air-Filter Alarm; Waa-Waa Pedal For Guitars; Jacob’s Ladder; Gear Change
Indicator For Cars; Capacity Indicator For Rechargeable Batteries.
Computer, Pt.1.
May 2000: Ultra-LD Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2; Build A LED Dice (With
PIC Microcontroller); Low-Cost AT Keyboard Translator (Converts
IBM Scan-Codes To ASCII); 50A Motor Speed Controller For Models.
June 2000: Automatic Rain Gauge With Digital Readout; Parallel
Port VHF FM Receiver; Li’l Powerhouse Switchmode Power Supply
(1.23V to 40V) Pt.1; CD Compressor For Cars Or The Home.
July 2000: A Moving Message Display; Compact Fluorescent
Lamp Driver; El-Cheapo Musicians’ Lead Tester; Li’l Powerhouse
Switchmode Power Supply (1.23V to 40V) Pt.2.
August 2000: Build A Theremin For Really Eeerie Sounds; Come
In Spinner (writes messages in “thin-air”); Proximity Switch For
240VAC Lamps; Structured Cabling For Computer Networks.
September 2000: Build A Swimming Pool Alarm; An 8-Channel PC
Relay Board; Fuel Mixture Display For Cars, Pt.1; Protoboards – The
Easy Way Into Electronics, Pt.1; Cybug The Solar Fly.
October 2000: Guitar Jammer For Practice & Jam Sessions;
Booze Buster Breath Tester; A Wand-Mounted Inspection Camera;
Installing A Free-Air Subwoofer In Your Car; Fuel Mixture Display
For Cars, Pt.2.
November 2000: Santa & Rudolf Chrissie Display; 2-Channel Guitar
Preamplifier, Pt.1; Message Bank & Missed Call Alert; Electronic
Thermostat; Protoboards – The Easy Way Into Electronics, Pt.3.
December 2000: Home Networking For Shared Internet Access;
Build A Bright-White LED Torch; 2-Channel Guitar Preamplifier, Pt.2
(Digital Reverb); Driving An LCD From The Parallel Port; Build A
Morse Clock; Protoboards – The Easy Way Into Electronics, Pt.4;
Index To Vol.13.
January 2001: How To Transfer LPs & Tapes To CD; The LP Doctor
– Clean Up Clicks & Pops, Pt.1; Arbitrary Waveform Generator;
2-Channel Guitar Preamplifier, Pt.3; PIC Programmer & TestBed.
August 1996: Introduction to IGBTs; Electronic Starter For Fluores
cent Lamps; VGA Oscilloscope, Pt.2; 350W Amplifier Module;
Masthead Amplifier For TV & FM; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.4.
October 1998: Lab Quality AC Millivoltmeter, Pt.1; PC-Controlled
Stress-O-Meter; Versatile Electronic Guitar Limiter; 12V Trickle
Charger For Float Conditions; Adding An External Battery Pack
To Your Flashgun.
September 1996: VGA Oscilloscope, Pt.3; IR Stereo Headphone
Link, Pt.1; High Quality PA Loudspeaker; 3-Band HF Amateur Radio
Receiver; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.5.
November 1998: The Christmas Star; A Turbo Timer For Cars;
Build A Poker Machine, Pt.1; FM Transmitter For Musicians; Lab
Quality AC Millivoltmeter, Pt.2; Improving AM Radio Reception, Pt.1.
February 2001: How To Observe Meteors Using Junked Gear; An
Easy Way To Make PC Boards; L’il Pulser Train Controller; Midi-Mate
– A MIDI Interface For PCs; Build The Bass Blazer; 2-Metre Elevated
Groundplane Antenna; The LP Doctor – Clean Up Clicks & Pops, Pt.2.
October 1996: Send Video Signals Over Twisted Pair Cable; Power
Control With A Light Dimmer; 600W DC-DC Converter For Car Hifi
Systems, Pt.1; IR Stereo Headphone Link, Pt.2; Build A Multi-Media
Sound System, Pt.1; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter, Pt.8.
December 1998: Engine Immobiliser Mk.2; Thermocouple Adaptor
For DMMs; Regulated 12V DC Plugpack; Build A Poker Machine,
Pt.2; Improving AM Radio Reception, Pt.2; Mixer Module For
F3B Gliders.
March 2001: Making Photo Resist PC Boards; Big-Digit 12/24 Hour
Clock; Parallel Port PIC Programmer & Checkerboard; Protoboards –
The Easy Way Into Electronics, Pt.5; A Simple MIDI Expansion Box.
November 1996: 8-Channel Stereo Mixer, Pt.1; Low-Cost
Fluorescent Light Inverter; Repairing Domestic Light Dimmers;
Multi-Media Sound System, Pt.2; 600W DC-DC Converter For Car
Hifi Systems, Pt.2.
January 1999: High-Voltage Megohm Tester; Getting Started With
BASIC Stamp; LED Bargraph Ammeter For Cars; Keypad Engine
Immobiliser; Improving AM Radio Reception, Pt.3.
December 1996: Active Filter Cleans Up Your CW Reception; A Fast
Clock For Railway Modellers; Laser Pistol & Electronic Target; Build
A Sound Level Meter; 8-Channel Stereo Mixer, Pt.2; Index To Vol.9.
January 1997: How To Network Your PC; Control Panel For Multiple Smoke Alarms, Pt.1; Build A Pink Noise Source; Computer
Controlled Dual Power Supply, Pt.1; Digi-Temp Monitors Eight
Temperatures.
February 1997: PC-Controlled Moving Message Display; Computer
Controlled Dual Power Supply, Pt.2; Alert-A-Phone Loud Sounding
Telephone Alarm; Control Panel For Multiple Smoke Alarms, Pt.2.
March 1997: Driving A Computer By Remote Control; Plastic Power
PA Amplifier (175W); Signalling & Lighting For Model Railways;
Build A Jumbo LED Clock; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.7.
April 1997: Simple Timer With No ICs; Digital Voltmeter For Cars;
Loudspeaker Protector For Stereo Amplifiers; Model Train Controller; A Look At Signal Tracing; Pt.1; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.8.
March 1999: Getting Started With Linux; Pt.1; Build A Digital
Anemometer; Simple DIY PIC Programmer; Easy-To-Build Audio
Compressor; Low Distortion Audio Signal Generator, Pt.2.
May 2001: Powerful 12V Mini Stereo Amplifier; Two White-LED
Torches To Build; PowerPak – A Multi-Voltage Power Supply; Using
Linux To Share An Internet Connection, Pt.1; Tweaking Windows
With TweakUI.
April 1999: Getting Started With Linux; Pt.2; High-Power Electric
Fence Controller; Bass Cube Subwoofer; Programmable Thermostat/Thermometer; Build An Infrared Sentry; Rev Limiter For Cars.
June 2001: Fast Universal Battery Charger, Pt.1; Phonome – Call,
Listen In & Switch Devices On & Off; L’il Snooper – A Low-Cost
Automatic Camera Switcher; Using Linux To Share An Internet
Connection, Pt.2; A PC To Die For, Pt.1 (Building Your Own PC).
May 1999: The Line Dancer Robot; An X-Y Table With Stepper
Motor Control, Pt.1; Three Electric Fence Testers; Heart Of LEDs;
Build A Carbon Monoxide Alarm; Getting Started With Linux; Pt.3.
June 1999: FM Radio Tuner Card For PCs; X-Y Table With Stepper
Motor Control, Pt.2; Programmable Ignition Timing Module For
Cars, Pt.1; Hard Disk Drive Upgrades Without Reinstalling Software?
July 1999: Build A Dog Silencer; 10µH to 19.99mH Inductance
Meter; Build An Audio-Video Transmitter; Programmable Ignition
Timing Module For Cars, Pt.2; XYZ Table With Stepper Motor
Control, Pt.3.
May 1997: Neon Tube Modulator For Light Systems; Traffic Lights For
A Model Intersection; The Spacewriter – It Writes Messages In Thin
Air; A Look At Signal Tracing; Pt.2; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.9.
August 1999: Remote Modem Controller; Daytime Running Lights
For Cars; Build A PC Monitor Checker; Switching Temperature
Controller; XYZ Table With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.4; Electric
Lighting, Pt.14.
June 1997: PC-Controlled Thermometer/Thermostat; TV Pattern
Generator, Pt.1; Audio/RF Signal Tracer; High-Current Speed
Controller For 12V/24V Motors; Manual Control Circuit For
Stepper Motors.
September 1999: Autonomouse The Robot, Pt.1; Voice Direct
Speech Recognition Module; Digital Electrolytic Capacitance Meter; XYZ Table With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.5; Peltier-Powered
Can Cooler.
July 1997: Infrared Remote Volume Control; A Flexible Interface
Card For PCs; Points Controller For Model Railways; Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.2; An In-Line Mixer For Radio Control Receivers.
October 1999: Build The Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.1;
Semiconductor Curve Tracer; Autonomouse The Robot, Pt.2; XYZ
Table With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.6; Introducing Home Theatre.
August 1997: The Bass Barrel Subwoofer; 500 Watt Audio Power
Amplifier Module; A TENs Unit For Pain Relief; Addressable PC Card
For Stepper Motor Control; Remote Controlled Gates For Your Home.
November 1999: Setting Up An Email Server; Speed Alarm For
Cars, Pt.1; LED Christmas Tree; Intercom Station Expander; Foldback Loudspeaker System; Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.2.
September 1997: Multi-Spark Capacitor Discharge Ignition;
500W Audio Power Amplifier, Pt.2; A Video Security System For
Your Home; PC Card For Controlling Two Stepper Motors; HiFi
On A Budget.
December 1999: Solar Panel Regulator; PC Powerhouse (gives
+12V, +9V, +6V & +5V rails); Fortune Finder Metal Locator; Speed
Alarm For Cars, Pt.2; Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.3;
Index To Vol.12.
October 1997: Build A 5-Digit Tachometer; Add Central Locking
To Your Car; PC-Controlled 6-Channel Voltmeter; 500W Audio
Power Amplifier, Pt.3; Customising The Windows 95 Start Menu.
January 2000: Spring Reverberation Module; An Audio-Video Test
Generator; Build The Picman Programmable Robot; A Parallel Port
Interface Card; Off-Hook Indicator For Telephone Lines.
November 1997: Heavy Duty 10A 240VAC Motor Speed Controller;
Easy-To-Use Cable & Wiring Tester; Build A Musical Doorbell;
Replacing Foam Speaker Surrounds; Understanding Electric
Lighting Pt.1.
February 2000: Multi-Sector Sprinkler Controller; A Digital Voltmeter For Your Car; An Ultrasonic Parking Radar; Build A Safety
Switch Checker; Build A Sine/Square Wave Oscillator.
December 1997: Speed Alarm For Cars; 2-Axis Robot With Gripper; Stepper Motor Driver With Onboard Buffer; Power Supply
www.siliconchip.com.au
April 2001: A GPS Module For Your PC; Dr Video – An Easy-To-Build
Video Stabiliser; Tremolo Unit For Musicians; Minimitter FM Stereo
Transmitter; Intelligent Nicad Battery Charger.
March 2000: Resurrecting An Old Computer; Low Distortion
100W Amplifier Module, Pt.1; Electronic Wind Vane With 16-LED
Display; Glowplug Driver For Powered Models; The OzTrip Car
July 2001: The HeartMate Heart Rate Monitor; Do Not Disturb
Telephone Timer; Pic-Toc – A Simple Alarm Clock; Fast Universal
Battery Charger, Pt.2; A PC To Die For, Pt.2; Backing Up Your Email.
August 2001: Direct Injection Box For Musicians; Build A 200W
Mosfet Amplifier Module; Headlight Reminder For Cars; 40MHz
6-Digit Frequency Counter Module; A PC To Die For, Pt.3; Using
Linux To Share An Internet Connection, Pt.3.
September 2001: Making MP3s – Rippers & Encoders; Build Your
Own MP3 Jukebox, Pt.1; PC-Controlled Mains Switch; Personal
Noise Source For Tinnitus Sufferers; The Sooper Snooper Directional
Microphone; Using Linux To Share An Internet Connection, Pt.4.
October 2001: A Video Microscope From Scrounged Parts; Build
Your Own MP3 Jukebox, Pt.2; Super-Sensitive Body Detector;
An Automotive Thermometer; Programming Adapter For Atmel
Microcomputers.
November 2001: Ultra-LD 100W RMS/Channel Stereo Amplifier,
Pt.1; Neon Tube Modulator For Cars; Low-Cost Audio/Video Distribution Amplifier; Short Message Recorder Player; Computer Tips.
December 2001: A Look At Windows XP; Build A PC Infrared Transceiver; Ultra-LD 100W RMS/Ch Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2; Pardy Lights
– An Intriguing Colour Display; PIC Fun – Learning About Micros.
January 2002: Touch And/Or Remote-Controlled Light Dimmer,
Pt.1; A Cheap ’n’Easy Motorbike Alarm; 100W RMS/Channel
Stereo Amplifier, Pt.3; Build A Raucous Alarm; Tracking Down
Computer Software Problems; Electric Power Steering; FAQs On
The MP3 Jukebox.
PLEASE NOTE: November 1987 to March 1989, June 1989, August
1989, December 1989, May 1990, December 1990, February 1991,
April 1991, June 1991, August 1991, January 1992, February
1992, July 1992, August 1992, September 1992, November 1992,
December 1992, January 1993, May 1993, February 1996, March
1998 and February 1999 are now sold out. All other issues are
presently in stock. We can supply photostat copies (or tear sheets)
from sold-out issues for $7.70 per article (includes p&p). When
supplying photostat articles or back copies, we automatically supply
any relevant notes & errata at no extra charge. A complete index to
all articles published to date can be downloaded free from our web
site: www.siliconchip.com.au
February 2002 89
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Write to: Ask Silicon Chip, PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097; or
send an email to silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
Playmaster Twin 25
stereo amplifier
I am looking for the schematic diagram and or construction details for
either the 25W or 40W per channel
stereo amplifier brought out by “Electronics Australia” back in the late
70s. The problem is that the output
transistors have shorted out. I know
that one pair are 2N3055s but as for
the other two, I assume they could be
MJE2955 but I can’t be sure. Can you
help? (D. H., Launceston, Tas).
• The Playmaster Twin 25 and 40/40
amplifiers used one pair of 2N3055s in
each channel. It was not a complementary symmetry design. If the output
transistors have shorted out, look for
other faults as well.
We can supply as photocopy of the
relevant articles for $8.80 including
postage.
6-LED torch has
flashing fault
I have just built the 6-LED Torch
kit featured in the May 2001 edition.
The kit was easy to assemble and the
Peak hold for
tacho circuit
I would like to know whether a
peak-hold function could be added
to the Auto Tachometer circuit in
the April 2000 issue? I would like
to use the unit in a Formula 500
Speedway car which is powered by
a single cylinder 2-stroke engine.
Different tracks require different
gearing and this feature would be
ideal for checking for peak RPM,
as it becomes very difficult to keep
an eye on the tacho when peak revs
come at the end of the straight right
when you’re sliding into corners,
trying to avoid cars in front of you
while getting mud thrown at your
visor etc. (J. H. Perth, WA).
• Unfortunately, the entire pro90 Silicon Chip
torch worked first go, however once
it has been on for a short period it
starts flashing. It’s sort of like a strobe
light, except that it can flash either off
or brighter than the usual brightness
setting.
The flashing varies from short, quick
pulses to slow pulses where it almost
goes off completely for a fraction of a
second. It will start flashing anywhere
from a few seconds after being turned
on to about a minute. (B. G., via email).
• This is a strange one. Some of the
reasons for this problem could be:
(1) The D cell connections could be
tarnished, causing a high resistance
to the inverter PC board or to the
torch negative spring connection. (2)
The 47µF tantalum capacitor could
be inserted the wrong way or may be
faulty. (3) There may be a bad solder
joint between the PC board tracks and
the MAX1676 IC. (4) The D cell may
be discharged to below 0.8V or it is a
general purpose type rather than an
alkaline type which should perform
better. (5) The output voltage is set
higher than the recommended 3.9V
to 4V max.
As you can see, we are quite puzzled
gram memory contents of the
microcontroller in the tachometer
circuit has been used to provide for
all the features. Without extensive
rewriting of the code there is simply
no space to include a peak-hold
feature.
The accuracy of the peak hold
would also be in doubt since many
race engines simply change RPM
too quickly for a reliable measurement particularly over the 0.6-second update time for your single
cylinder 2-stroke engine.
One suggestion would be to
set the bargraph to operate over a
narrow range of RPM so that peak
RPM can be seen as one of the lit
LEDs. This will provide a guide as
to RPM reached within the limits
set for the bargraph.
about this fault but we have given you
a list of points to check.
Lost speedo mode
in Speed Alarm
I have built the PIC Speed Alarm
from the November and December
1999 issues. The project was well designed and went together easily.
It was perfect for about eight months
then one day I turned the key and
the display said "dash, dash, dash".
Pressing the mode button now gives
two choices: dash, dash, dash and
speed alarm setting. The unit still
works as a speed alarm but there is
no speedometer readout. Could the
PIC microprocessor somehow have
reprogrammed itself? (D. K., via email).
• The speedometer option in the PIC
memory has probably been lost due to
high temperatures within the car. This
can be regained simply by holding the
Mode switch closed when power is
applied to the Speed Alarm (ie, when
the ignition is switched on).
This will select the speedo option
again and the display will show an
S until the switch is released. This
option will again be stored in memory and you will be able to select the
speedometer display as before.
Volume control for
multi-channel amplifier
I need your help with a problem I
am not sure how to resolve. I have just
purchased a DVD player with a builtin multi-channel DTS Decoder with
analog outputs for all 5.1 channels.
I plan on plugging my DVD directly
into a 6-channel power amplifier I am
building. I am using the LM3876T 50W
audio chip for each channel.
Would a 500VA toroidal transformer
(25-0-25) with a 35A 400V bridge rectifier and two 20,000µF 50V capacitors
as the power supply be sufficient to
drive all channels to full power into 8
ohms? Would it be better to have dual
power supplies to even the load?
My DVD has volume (gain setup) for
www.siliconchip.com.au
each channel, so all I need is a way of
turning up and down the volume. Any
ideas? Can you buy a 5 or 6-gang pot for
this purpose or is the volume control
on most surround sound amplifiers
all electronic? The idea of adjusting
all six channels at once individually
is a bit daunting.
Second problem: I am repairing an
old Technics SU-7200 amplifier. It
has blown output transistors. They
are marked D526 & B596 and are
TO-220 devices. I need two of each
one. Would you know where I can get
replacements? Is there a replacement
type (equivalent) I can use instead of
the originals?
I also found a cordless handheld
mike at a garage sale. It is a Chiayo
Q-309 with an Audio Technica capsule
fitted. Its frequency is 203.300MHz. I
believe this type of mike used a dual
diversity receiver system. I wonder if
any of your readers could help me with
a receiver to match? Is it possible to
change the mike frequency to say suit
the diversity receiver that appeared in
your magazine that used the FM band?
K. S., Morphett, SA).
• Your ideas about home theatre
parallel our own. In fact, we have
just developed a 6-channel infrared
remote volume control – planned for
publication in the coming March issue.
Your power supply concept should be
adequate.
We suggest you try WES Components (Phone 02 9797 9866) for your
Technics amplifier transistors.
Query on Theremin
alignment
I have just completed assembling
the Theremin kit described in the
August 2000 issue of SILICON CHIP.
I am having a little trouble getting it
Questions on the
Ultra-LD Amplifier
The Ultra-LD Amplifier in your
latest editions looks very interesting
but I have a couple of questions
regarding the speci
fications and
possible modifications. Is the distortion rating at 1W output? If so,
what’s the distortion rating at full
rated power? Are the distortion
harmonics predominantly low or
high order?
Are there any improvements that
can be made to the amplifier in the
area of sound quality? For instance,
I’m not that keen on the crimped
connectors but can always attack
those with a soldering iron once
the kit is up and running.
How does the amplifier respond
to an increased bias cur
rent? I
would prefer to do most of my
listening in class A. I’m aware that
this would make the fan run more
often. Ignoring the background
noise issue, are there any problems
with increasing the bias a bit?
Finally, you don’t seem to be too
concerned about any lack of Vbe/
gain matching; is there anything
to be gained by sourcing matched
output transistors? A few people I
know love to rant about how anyone
can achieve extremely low THD
with lots of negative feedback; is
there anything to be gained by reducing the amount of feedback and
taking other measures to ensure that
the amplifier’s overall gain is still
suitable? (G. W., via email).
• As you can see from the graphs on
pages 62 & 63 of the December 2001
issue, we measured the distortion at
90W across the full audio spectrum
(Fig.15) and at 1kHz from 500mW
to full power (Fig.16). Distortion
at full power at 1kHz is less than
.003%. The distortion is predominantly 2nd & 3rd harmonic. We
cannot suggest any improvements
for sound quality – if there were
any, we would have incorporated
them. We would not recommend
solder connections for the crimped
connectors – there is not likely to
be any improvement at all.
If you wanted to listen in class-A
you would have to in
crease the
bias current to several hundred
milli
a mps. This would greatly
increase the overall dissipation in
the amplifier and may require an
improvement in the heatsinking
for the bridge rectifier. It will also
increase the hum radiation from the
transformer and therefore prejudice
noise levels in the amplifier – we
wouldn’t do it.
The only likely improvement
obtained by matching the output
transistors would be improved
current sharing – there is unlikely
to be any other measurable improvement.
Wiring layout is the most critical
aspect of a low distortion amplifier.
A relatively small change in the
wiring layout of the Ultra-LD can
easily double the THD! Against
that, any playing around with the
feedback parameters is fiddling
around the edges.
We would strongly advise against
making any modifications to the
circuit or layout, unless you have
access to an Audio Precision System
One or similar distortion measuring
system and a 100MHz scope, to
validate any changes.
PARALLAX BS2-IC BASIC STAMP $112.00 INC GST
WE STOCK THE COMPLETE DEVELOPMENT SYSTEM
www.siliconchip.com.au
February 2002 91
PIC project
questions
I have a couple of questions
regarding two of your PIC based
projects:
(1) Is it possible to change the
software of the “Automotive Thermometer”, published in the October
2001 issue, to indicate tenths of a
degree, ie; XX.X? If necessary, a
longer ‘integration’ period would
be acceptable.
Also, could the software be
changed to automatically toggle
between internal/external temper
atures – say with a delay of 30-60
seconds? The existing toggle button
could still be retained to immediately change the mode and be used
for calibration.
(2) I built the “Rain Gauge” (published June 2000) from a Jaycar kit
about a year ago. It works well but
I would like to know what changes
have been made to the software
(I notice you have a new version
available for download). I would
also like to know if the kit design
(software/hardware) could be modified to blank the displays during a
main power failure; ie, the backup
set up properly. Could this be due to
your instructions not explaining how
to adjust transformer coil T1? (E. K.,
via email).
• Coil T1 is not adjusted since all other adjustments are made against this
reference frequency. Adjustment of its
trimmer slug will result in detuning of
the Theremin.
Check the voltages on all oscillator
sections of the circuit, at the drains of
the JFETS and at the collector of Q4.
Dr Video negative supply query
I recently built the Dr Video Stabiliser from the April 2001 issue but I
have not had any success with it. The
recorded video is in black and white
and is not stable. Both LEDs light up
as required but the negative 5V rail
measures only 3.5V. Positive 5V is spot
on. The circuit board and soldering
look OK. The input to the 555 is 11.5V
(pins 4 & 8) and I have checked both
D2 and D3.
92 Silicon Chip
battery would only drive the clock/
counter circuitry without wasting
power on the LED displays? (C. S.,
Lemon Tree Passage, NSW).
• The software for the Thermometer could be altered to alternate the
display readings between internal
and external temperature. Alternatively you could connect up a 555
timer operating as a free running
oscillator to “close” the switch
momentarily every few seconds.
Measurements of 0.1°C are not
possible because this display resolution is not available and also
because the sensors do not give
0.1°C accuracy. Most accurate
tempera
ture sensors which give
0.1°C accuracy/resolution only
operate over a narrow temperature
band. These are used for body temperature measurements.
Commer cial ther m o m eter s
claim
ing 0.1°C accuracy over a
-55°C-150°C range using a thermistor sensor are rather optimistic.
The Rain Gauge does not have
any facility to shut down the
display during a blackout using
software. It would require an additional circuit to detect power loss to
interrupt the display supply.
•
The EF25 is now difficult to obtain.
You could use the EFD25 which will
require some extra holes to be drilled
in the PC board. These transformers
are available from Farnell. The catalog
numbers are 200-300 for the cores (two
required), 200-311 for the bobbin and
200-323 fro the clips (two required).
Phone New Zealand 64 9 357 0646.
Using ECU signal for
speed alarm
I have an enquiry regarding a Digital Speed Alarm kit that I purchased
through Jaycar recently. It was described in November & December
1999. The instructions call for the use
of a coil and magnets for detection of
the speed of the car. My query is can
I use the speed sensor wire from the
ECU of my car and if so, how? My car
is a 1986 VL Commodore. (C. M., via
email).
• The speed signal from the car computer can be used to drive the Speed
Alarm unit. Simply connect the signal
to the 1kΩ resistor input connecting to
pin 2 of IC2a. This is instead of con
necting L1.
Boosting
headphone signals
Could the low negative rail be the
problem? How do I fix it as I have
changed the 555 and both 220µF capacitors? Even with pin 3 open circuit
the voltage out of the 555 is only 5.4V.
(R. L., via email).
• The circuit won’t work without
-5V. If your 555 is working properly,
you should have about 10V peak-topeak at pin 3 and about 8-9V at the
input to REG2. Are you sure that you
do not have a CMOS 555 (eg, 7555)
instead of an ordinary 555 which will
deliver a lot more current?
Have you ever had an article on
converting the headphone output of
a device to a line level signal suitable
for feeding into an audio amplifier? I
have a laptop which has a composite
TV out signal but only a headphone
socket for audio. It would be nice to
be able to hook the entire thing into
the home theatre. (M. C., via email).
• Have a look at the PreChamp featured in July 1994 (also featured on
page 36 of the October 2001 issue);
you will need two for stereo. You probably only need a gain of 10 or so, so
the 100Ω resistor at the emitter of Q1
should be changed to 220Ω or 270Ω.
Transformer for
TENS unit
Beat triggered strobe
does not work
I am enquiring about the TENS Unit
project described in August 1997. I am
trying to adapt this to a slightly different application but am having trouble
sourcing the EF25 ferrite transformer.
Are you able to tell me or put me in
touch with the original kit supplier or
advise where I might source this from.
(R. S., via email).
I recently brought a Beat-Triggered
Strobe project, as published in the
August 1998 issue of SILICON CHIP. I
got it together fine and it worked fine
on oscillator for a day or two. Then I
mounted it in the box and decided to
try the line input and I got nothing.
I spent some time checking the
circuit, PC board layout etc and I nowww.siliconchip.com.au
Notes & Errata
Motorbike Alarm, January
2002: the Veroboard layout
shown on page 56 contains a
number of errors. The correct
layout for both the copper
pattern and the parts overlay
is shown at right.
ticed that the circuit specified a 1µF
capacitor just after D1 but in the PC
board layout diagram it specified a
100µF (which was supplied). I put in
a 1µF unit and that fixed it for about
10 minutes, then it stopped altogether.
All that happens now is that the
neon goes on, permanently. I did some
testing and I think the neon is staying
on because the 0.1µF 250VAC in series
with T2 is only discharging to about
68V. Beyond that, I have no idea what’s
wrong. Can you help please? (T. D.,
via email)
• The capacitor at the cathode of D1
should be 1µF. Trigger transformer T2
is probably at fault. Replace this and
the circuit should work.
Check the voltages across the 0.1µF
capacitor and the 6.5µF capacitors
before working on the circuit. A high
voltage across them could give a nasty
electric shock.
Video colour
inverter wanted
I am a student at Swinburne University, Melbourne. I am currently doing
a project involving video editing and
production. I am looking for a video
colour inverter to add in those effects
I have sometimes seen on TV. I was
wondering if you had a kit or project
that takes a standard composite video
signal and inverts the colours. (G. W.,
via email).
• While we have not described a
video inverter project, you could
adapt the circuit of the Video Fader we
published in August 1993. You need
to strip the sync off the video signal,
invert the video and then add the sync
back again. The August 1993 circuit
will show you how. We can supply
this issue for $7.70 including postage.
Stepper motor
control needed
I am after a circuit that controls
a 12V motor. It would control the
number of turns in either direction
the motor can make; ie, I want the
motor to complete 50 revolutions in
a clockwise or anti-clockwise direction. It would also allow the number
of revolutions to be stored for later
retrieval (multiple storages would be
nice). Basically, I want to be able to
open and close curtains using a motor and be able to open them a preset
amount.
Do you know of a circuit that would
suit my needs and where I could get
it? (B. S., via email).
• We published a number of articles
on Stepper Motor control from a PC
during 1997 but one entitled “Manual
Control Circuit For A Stepper Motor”
in the June 1997 issue is probably the
most appropriate for your application.
It will drive a stepper motor in one
direction or the other for a fixed time.
We can supply the issue for $7.70
including postage.
Extra inputs for AV distribution amplifier
I would like to add additional
(switchable) inputs for the AV Distribution Amplifier project (November
2001) to cope with the situation of, say,
using a Cable TV box, two VCRs and
a DVD feeding a TV and also feeding
the output back to the VCR’s line-input
for recording/dubbing, plus (sound) to
a hifi system. This situation must be
quite a usual setup in the home and
would cope with recording the ‘input’
device at any time, whether the TV
was on or off.
Is it just a case of buying a video
switch box to use before the distribution amplifier or is there a more elegant solution? Or indeed has a project
been designed for this purpose? (B. F.,
Brighton, Vic).
• The best way is to use an AV switch
box ahead of the distribution amplifier,
as you suggest. Trying to build input
source switching into the amplifier
would be messy. A switch box should
SC
be fine.
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be
carried out according to the instructions in the articles. When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do
not accidentally come into contact with mains AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects
employing mains voltages or other high voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd
disclaims any liability for damages should anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of
SILICON CHIP magazine. Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any
liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims
any liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the Trade
Practices Act 1974 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are applicable.
www.siliconchip.com.au
February 2002 93
MARKET CENTRE
Cash in your surplus gear. Advertise it here in Silicon Chip.
CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING RATES
Advertising rates for this page: Classified ads: $20.00 (incl. GST) for up to 20
words plus 66 cents for each additional word. Display ads: $33.00 (incl. GST) per
column centimetre (max. 10cm). Closing date: five weeks prior to month of sale.
To run your classified ad, print it clearly in the space below or on a separate
sheet of paper, fill out the form & send it with your cheque or credit card details
to: Silicon Chip Classifieds, PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097. Or fax the details
to (02) 9979 6503.
Taxation Invoice ABN 49 003 205 490
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94 Silicon Chip
FOR SALE
TELEPHONE EXCHANGE SIMULATOR: test equipment without the cost of
telephone lines. Melb 9806 0110.
http://www.alphalink.com.au/~zenere
SPEAKER REPAIRS. New surrounds
and voice coils. New and reconditioned
speakers, boxes and kits. (03) 5986
1128, 0418 125367.
GAFFA TAPE, Limited Stock
Black or silver 25m rolls, $9.90 each; 3
or more rolls, $8.00 each
OFC SPEAKER CABLE, Can sell by
metre length but price will vary.
30 x 0.16 strand ............. $55.00/100m
105 x 0.12 strand ........... $88.00/100m
259 x 0.12 strand ......... $198.00/100m
413 x 0.12 strand ......... $330.00/100m
Fig 8. 14 x 0.2 strand ..... $27.50/100m
Fig 8. 24 x 0.2 strand ..... $49.50/100m
Teknicolour Ph: (02) 8850 4960.
WEATHER STATIONS: Windspeed &
direction, inside temperature, outside
temperature & windchill. Records highs
& lows with time and date as they occur.
Optional rainfall and PC interface. Used
by Government Departments, farmers,
pilots, and weather enthusiasts. Other
models with barometric pressure, humidity, dew point, solar radiation, UV,
leaf wetness, etc. Just phone, fax or
write for our FREE catalogue and price
list. Solar Flair/Ecowatch phone: (03)
5968 4863; fax: (03) 5968 5810, PO
Box 18, Emerald, Vic., 3782. ACN 006
399 480.
KITS KITS AND MORE KITS! Check
‘em out at www.ozitronics.com
UNIVERSAL DEVICE PROGRAMMER: Low cost, high performance,
48-pin, works in DOS or Windows inc
NT/2000. $1320. Universal EPROM
programmer $429. Also adaptors, (E)
EPROM, PIC, 8051 programmers,
EPROM simulator and eraser.
Dunfield C Compilers: Everything you
need to develop C and ASM software
for 68HC08, 6809, 68HC11, 68HC12,
www.siliconchip.com.au
68HC16, 8051/52, 8080/85, 8086, 8096
or AVR: $198 each. Demo disk available.
ImageCraft C Compilers: 32-bit
Windows IDE and compiler. For AVR,
68HC11, 68HC12. $396.
Atmel Flash CPU Programmer: Handles the 89Cx051, 89C5x, 89Sxx in both
DIP and PLCC44 and some AVR’s, most
8-pin EEPROMS. Includes socket for
serial ISP cable. $220, $11 p&p. SOIC
adaptors: 20 pin $99, 14 pin $93.50, 8
pin $88.
Full details on web site. Credit cards
accepted.
GRANTRONICS PTY LTD, PO Box 275,
Wentworthville 2145. (02) 9896 7150 or
http://www.grantronics.com.au
Audio, Video, S-Video and VGA cables
distribution amps, switchers, adaptors,
price lists at:
www.questronix.com.au
AUTHOR/ENGINEER: Broad background producing instruction and
technical manuals to specification and
in a clear, easy to read form. Notebook
computer, drawing programs, photographic and short-run printing facilities.
Professionally qualified in electronics
and communications. MIEAust.
maurief<at>bigpond.com
CCTV EQUIPMENT: Best prices
best-tange Cameras from $34. Digital
PC Video Recording Dial In/Out Software
& much more. www.allthings.com.au
RADIO PROJECTS for the Amateur,
Vol.2 : more plans for the construction
of receivers, transmitters, antennas, test
equipment and some handy workshop
hints and tips. See review at;
www.mdrc.org.au/apcnews/APCNews-20010425.html
Order from the writer: Drew Diamond
(VK3XU), 45 Gatters Road, Wonga Park
3115. Cost $24.95 incl. P&P.
USB KITS: DDS-HF Generator, 4-channel Voltmeter, 10-Relay Card. Also Digital Oscilloscope and Temperature Loggers. http://www.ar.com.au/~softmark
CENTRAL COAST FIELD DAY, SUNDAY 24TH FEBRUARY. Don’t miss
Australia’s biggest and best exhibition
and sale of new and used radio and
communication equipment at Wyong
Race Course, just 1 hour north from
Sydney. Gates open 8.30 a.m. Special
Field Day bargains from traders and tons
www.siliconchip.com.au
Satellite TV Reception
International satellite
TV reception in your
home is now affordable.
Send for your free info
pack containing equipment catalog, satellite
lists, etc or call for appointment to view.
We can display all satellites from 76.5°
to 180°.
AV-COMM P/L, 24/9 Powells Rd,
Brookvale, NSW 2100.
Tel: 02 9939 4377 or 9939 4378.
Fax: 9939 4376; www.avcomm.com.au
Need prototype PC boards?
We have the solutions – we print electronics!
Four-day turnaround, less if urgent; Artwork from your own
positive or file; Through hole plating; Prompt postal service; 29
years technical experience; Inexpensive; Superb quality.
Printed Electronics, 12A Aristoc Rd,
Glen Waverley, Vic 3150.
Phone: (03) 9545 3722; Fax: (03) 9545 3561
Call Mike Lynch and check us out!
We are the best for low cost, small runs.
New New New
Mark22-SM
Slimline Mini FM R/C Receiver
•
•
•
•
•
6 Channels
10kHz frequency separation
Size: 55 x 23 x 20mm
Weight: 25gm
Modular Construction
Price: $A129.50 with crystal
Electronics
PO Box 580, Riverwood, NSW 2210.
Ph/Fax (02) 9533 3517
email: youngbob<at>silvertone.com.au
Website: www.silvertone.com.au
KITS-R-US 08-82703175
of disposals gear in the flea market. Exhibits by clubs and groups with interests
ranging from vintage radio, packet radio,
scanning, amateur TV and satellite.
www.ccarc.org.au Ph (02) 4340 2500.
VIDEO amplifiers, Stabilisers, TBCs,
Converters, Mixers, etc. QUESTRONIX
(02) 9477 3596.
BIG CLOCK (Silicon Chip, 3/2001)
and TELEPHONE CALL LOGGER
(Silicon Chip, 12/2001) available from
www.ozitronics.com or ring (03) 9434
3806.
RCS HAS MOVED to 41 Arlewis St,
Chester Hill 2162 and is now open,
with full production. Tel (02) 9738 0330;
Fax 9738 0334. rcsradio<at>cia.com.au;
www.cia.com.au/rcsradio
PCBs MADE, ONE OR MANY. Low
prices, hobbyists welcome. Sesame
Electronics (02) 9586 4771.
sesame<at>internetezy.com.au; http://
members.tripod.com/~sesame_elec
WANTED
WANTED: EARLY HIFIs, amplifiers,
More at www.bettanet.net.au/GTD
$2 PACKS
Buy 10 packs, get the 11th one free
#001 20 x quality USA nylon cable ties
#002 10 x 14-pin IC sockets
#003 20 x 16-pin dip 8 x 47k resistor array
#004 20 x 7408 quad 2 input and gate
#005 10 x 1.5uF 6VW SMD chip capacitor
#006 10 x 0.47uF 20VW SMD chip capacitor
#007 10 x 2.2uF 2VW SMD chip capacitor
#008 2 x 8MHz ceralock for PIC CPU chips
#009 4 x Murata UHF 3pF trimmer cap
#010 2 metres 40-way IDC cable
#011 2 x 52-pin PLCC IC sockets
#012 6 x BF86 no brand RF transistors
#013 40 x 1N4148 signal diode ($5/100)
#014 2 x DB series connectors your
choice of any 9 to 50 pin M/F plugs and
sockets, limited stocks.
Circuit Ideas Wanted
Do you have a good circuit idea? If
so, sketch it out, write a brief description of its operation & send it to
us. Provided your idea is workable
& original, we’ll publish it in Circuit
Notebook & you’ll make some money.
We pay up to $60 for a good circuit
so send your idea to:
Silicon Chip Publications,
PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097.
February 2002 95
Silicon Chip Binders
Keep your copies safe, secure and
always available with SILICON CHIP
binders: they’re cheap insurance!
Alltac International.......................85
REAL
VALUE
AT
Altronics.......................Loose Insert
PLUS P
&P
Aust. Microelect. Network.............11
$12.95
Heavy board covers with
2-tone green vinyl covering
Advertising Index
Allthings Sales & Services...........95
Av-Comm Pty Ltd.........................95
Each binder holds up to 14
issues so that you can include
catalogs
Dick Smith Electronics........... 18-21
SILICON CHIP logo printed
in gold-coloured lettering on
spine & cover
Elan Audio....................................63
Price: $12.95 (includes GST)
plus $5.50 p&p each (available
Aust. only). Price includes GST.
Grantronics..................................95
eLabtronics..................................73
Farnell Electronic Components....43
G.S. & W.M. Millar........................96
Order by phoning (02) 9979 5644 & quoting your credit card number;
or fax the details to (02) 9979 6503; or mail your order with cheque or
credit card details to Silicon Chip Publications, PO Box 139, Collaroy,
NSW 2097.
Harbuch Electronics.....................73
Hy-Q International........................85
Instant PCBs................................95
Jaycar ................................... 45-52
Positions At Jaycar
We are often looking for enthusiastic
staff for positions in our retail stores and
head office at Silverwater in Sydney. A
genuine interest in electronics is a necessity. Phone 02 9741 8555 for current
vacancies.
Speakers, Turntables, Valves, Books;
Quad, Leak, Pye, Lowther, Ortofon,
SME, Western Electric, Altec, Marantz,
McIntosh, Goodm ans, Wharfed ale,
Tannoy; radio and wireless. Collector/
Hobbyist will pay cash. (07) 5449 1601.
johnmurt<at>highprofile.com.au
WANTED: CIRCUIT DIAGRAM for:
“VALET” 3 Zone Fire Alarm panel. Purchased from Oatley Electronics. Cat
No. ZA0050. Tel (08) 8264 1015. Email:
wriffel<at>senet.com.au
G.S. & W.M. MILLAR
ELECTRONICS SUPPORT SOLUTIONS
Electro-mechanical/Electronic repairs, rebuilds,
maintenance, calibrations etc.
Quality service at your site/s or in our workshop.
PH: 0416 278-775
JED Microprocessors................5,85
MicroZed Computers...................85
Oatley Electronics........................79
Printed Electronics...................... 95
Polykom.......................................75
WANTED: ROCKWELL/CONNEXANT
R6511AQ Processors new, used or in
old equipment (02) 9979 3971.
Quest Electronics.........................85
KIT ASSEMBLY
Robotic Education Products.........43
NEVILLE WALKER KIT ASSEMBLY
& REPAIR:
• Australia wide service
• Small production runs
• Specialist “one-off” applications
Phone Neville Walker (07) 3857 2752
Email: flashdog<at>optusnet.com.au
RobotOz..................................37,85
RCS Radio...................................95
RF Probes....................................85
Silicon Chip Binders.....................96
Silicon Chip Bookshop........... 86-87
SC Computer Omnibus...........53,96
SC EFI Tech Special................OBC
SC Electronics Testbench..........IBC
Subscribe &
Get this FREE!*
*Australia only. Offer valid only while stocks last.
THAT’S RIGHT – buy a 1- or 2-year subscription
to SILICON CHIP magazine and we’ll mail you a
free copy of “Computer Omnibus”.
Subscribe now by using the handy order form in this
issue or call (02) 9979 5644, 8.30-5.30 Mon-Fri
with your credit card details.
96 Silicon Chip
Silicon Chip Subscriptions...........42
Silvertone Electronics..................95
Solar Flair/Ecowatch....................95
VAF Research....................... IFC,85
Wiltronics.................41,59,83,85,91
_____________________________
PC Boards
Printed circuit boards for SILICON
CHIP projects are made by:
RCS Radio Pty Ltd. Phone (02) 9738
0330. Fax (02) 9738 0334.
www.siliconchip.com.au
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