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Audio Test Tones from your PC
SILICON
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MARCH 2002
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Preamp for
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Itsy-Bitsy
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March 2002 1
LED Lamp
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Contents
www.siliconchip.com.au
Vol.15, No.3; March 2002
FEATURES
8 Solar Power For All: Does It Add Up?
Is solar power a good investment for the average householder? We take a
look at some of the figures and the current incentives – by Ross Tester
30 Terra: Mission To Planet Earth
A look at the technology behind NASA’s new Earth observation satellites –
by Sammy Isreb
PROJECTS TO BUILD
16 The “Mighty Midget” Audio Amplifier Module
It’s based on a Philips class-H audio amplifier IC and can deliver 36W RMS
or 70W music power, all from a 13.8V supply – by Rick Walters
37 The Itsy-Bitsy USB Lamp
“Mighty Midget” 70W
Audio Amplifier Module – Page 16.
It plugs into the USB port and is just the shot for checking motherboard
switch and jumper settings – by Stan Swan & Ross Tester
56 6-Channel IR Remote Volume Control; Pt.1
It’s ideal for use with Dolby 5.1 digital decoders and lets you adjust the volume of all six channels simultaneously – by John Clarke
68 An RIAA Preamplifier For Magnetic Cartridges
Many modern amplifiers lack phono inputs. This preamplifier solves that problem – by Leo Simpson & Ross Tester
82 A 12/24V Intelligent Solar Power Battery Charger
Don’t cook your batteries by connecting them directly to a solar panel. This
charger turns off the power when the battery is charged – by Ross Tester
6-Channel IR Remote Volume
Control For DVD Players – Page 56.
COMPUTERS
23 Generate Audio Tones Using Your PC’s Soundcard
Looking for a low-cost audio generator? If you have a PC with a soundcard,
this one is for free! – by Greg Swain
RIAA Preamplifier For Magnetic
Cartridges – Page 68.
SPECIAL COLUMNS
40 Serviceman’s Log
Do some sets really self-destruct? – by the TV Serviceman
76 Vintage Radio
The AWA 719C 7-band console; Pt.1 – by Rodney Champness
DEPARTMENTS
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Publisher’s Letter
Mailbag
Subscriptions Form
Circuit Notebook
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Ask Silicon Chip
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Advertising Index
12/24V Intelligent Solar Battery
Charger – Page 82.
March 2002 1
PUBLISHER’S LETTER
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Production Manager
Greg Swain, B.Sc.(Hons.)
Technical Staff
John Clarke, B.E.(Elec.)
Ross Tester
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Rick Walters
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Advertising Enquiries
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Phone (02) 9979 5644
Fax (02) 9979 6503
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2 Silicon Chip
Wind power is increasing
in Australia
This month, we have been rather critical of
the various campaigns to get domestic electricity
users to install solar panels on the roofs of their
homes. While the idea of promoting solar power is
good, there is little justification for it if it does not
have a reasonable payback period. In fact, unless
you spend a lot of money on a solar system, say
$15,000 or more, you are unlikely to cater for your
own energy consumption let alone become a “net
seller” to your local grid.
We also regard systems without battery storage
as being a bit of a joke. One of the attractions of
installing solar panels and the other necessary equipment is that you become
independent of the local electricity supply. During blackouts, you continue to
function normally. If you can’t achieve that, then what is the point?
However, the renewable energy story in Australia is looking much better
than it was just a few years ago. But the real advances are not being made in
solar energy but in wind power. In the last two years or so, some big wind
farms have been started and there are more to come. For example, there is the
150 megawatt wind farm in Portland, Victoria and the recently announced
130MW Woolnorth development in Tasmania to be run by, believe it or not,
Hydro Tasmania. In fact, they have mapped out plans for 1000 megawatts of
wind power.
Stage one of the Woolnorth project will comprise six 1.75MW Vestas wind
turbines for an initial installation of 10 megawatts. These wind turbines are
much bigger than the 600kW units installed in Australia’s first grid-connected
wind farm at Crookwell, in NSW. (We featured in the Crookwell wind farm in
the January 1999 issue of SILICON CHIP.)
Greenpeace and AusWEA (Australian Wind Energy Association) have jointly
launched an official target for Australia to install 5000MW of wind power by
2010. Given the progress so far, that certainly looks achievable.
Apart from the initial installation, wind farms cost essentially nothing to
run and have minimal impact on the environment, so they must be regarded
as a very good alternative to any thermal power station. Still, while 5000MW
sounds like a lot of power, it is really only a small percentage of Australia’s
generating capacity.
And while wind power is good, what about solar power? Australia’s solar power potential is far greater than wind power but virtually nothing is
happening. The main reason that wind farms are being built is that they are
simple turn-key projects: just pay your money and Vestas or one of the other
wind turbine makers will install your wind farm quick smart. Considering the
relatively small amount of money spent or committed on wind farms so far,
Australia has little to boast about.
We should be committing funds to make real progress in the development
of major solar power stations. Government has to get involved in a big way.
Consider this: a typical coal-fired power station these days costs at least one
billion dollars. What would happen if the Federal government or one of the
states decided to devote one billion dollars to research and development
over the next five years with the aim of building a major solar power station?
We would make real progress. One billion dollars over five years is a trifling
amount, considering our Gross Domestic Product.
I am sure such a project would be successful and would put Australia well
on the way to eventually generating a major portion of its power from the sun.
Let’s do it.
Leo Simpson
www.siliconchip.com.au
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Clarification of
DVD resolution
Some recent letters to the editor
have suggested that DVD pictures are
considerably better than VCR pictures
because of the poor resolution of the
latter. In particular, they have spoken
of the little more than 200 lines of
resolution provided by a VCR, with
one letter contrasting this with DVD’s
576 lines.
This requires clarification. DVDs
and VCRs produce the same vertical
resolution. Nominally 625 lines, some
of these lines are used during the vertical blanking intervals (during which
the electron beam returns from the
bottom of the screen to the top). For
PAL, the number of displayed lines
was traditionally 585. For DVD, 576
lines was settled upon. The difference
is insignificant (most displays lose
several lines through overscan at both
the top and the bottom).
This 580-ish horizontal lines spread
over the vertical dimension is the
same whether the picture is from VCR,
broadcast or DVD (assuming a full
screen DVD picture).
The resolution sometimes specified
for VCRs is often stated as ‘200 lines’
or maybe a little more. This is not the
vertical resolution but the horizontal
resolution. Rather than the pixels
that have been talked about most
commonly with the advent of computers, the resolution of TV pictures
was traditionally specified in terms
of the number of vertical lines that
could be discerned across the width
of the display. This is where the ‘200’
comes from.
4 Silicon Chip
By contrast, DVD players are typically capable of between 500 and 540.
Note that the picture on a PAL DVD is
actually encoded as a 720 pixel wide
by 576 pixel high image, so hardware
DVD players lose around 17% of the
horizontal resolution during the conversion from a digital picture to an
analog PAL signal.
Stephen Dawson,
Gilmore, ACT.
Right of reply on
DVD widescreen
I’m glad to see my letter in the September 2001 issue generated so much
interest and comment.
What disappointed me, was I feel,
most of you missed my point. My
gripe was never against DVD and I
never once said that DVD doesn’t give
a better picture than VHS. It’s the film
industry that manipulates the film and
has the final say on how they will do
it. I have already mentioned “What
Women Want” and “Titanic”. Now
I include “True Lies” and “Airforce
One”. How many other movies are
being done this way?
“Airforce One” was a blatant example. I acquired a Zone 1 NTSC copy
of the DVD and the beauty of this
one was it is double-sided, one side
Widescreen 2.35:1 while the other
is Full Screen 4:3. The widescreen,
as you guessed, was the 4:3 picture
black-barred top and bottom; ie, 44%
of the original picture removed. What
really annoyed me, the blurb on the
cover of this, as it does on most VHS
movies, said “Film reformatted to suit
4:3”. What a joke this is, when in these
cases, it actually happened the other
way around.
If the film makers are filming in
4:3, why are they bothering with the
pseudo widescreen? As I stated in
September 2001, I thought widescreen
was more picture on the sides, not less
top & bottom. So why would anyone
in their right mind spend upwards of
$4000 on a 76cm widescreen TV when
you get the same result with a $2000
to $3000 80cm 4:3 set?
My point is I guess, how are movies
today initially filmed and then eventually presented. Next time you go to
the cinema, take a note of the trailers
to up and coming movies. Most are
presented in 16:9, however when they
become the feature they’re suddenly
2.35:1.
All you “couch potato experts”
have put your two bob’s worth in
but I wish the real experts from the
film industry would comment. Also
maybe the excellent team at SILICON
CHIP could explain the workings of
the compression technique used on
DVD and what trickery is done to get
500 lines resolution out of a 4:3 and
supposedly the same from 2.35:1.
Simon Kareh,
via email.
More on
transformer ratings
Congratulations on securing the
copyright of EA/ETI as noted in the
Publisher’s Letter in the January 2002
issue.
On a different note, in reference to
Ben Lowe’s letter (Mailbag, January)
relating to transformer ratings, I am
www.siliconchip.com.au
afraid that I must side with Mr Lowe.
Perhaps I can elaborate a bit on what
he wrote.
The power rating of a transformer
depends on how hot the transformer
is allowed to get during use. That in
turn depends on two main sources of
heat: iron (eddy current) losses in the
core and copper (I2R) losses in the
windings. Here, “I” represents the
RMS current through any winding of
the transformer and “R” is its resistance. At 50Hz we can safely assume
that eddy current losses are small
compared to I2R so it is the loss due
to the resistances of the primary and
secondary windings that is the more
important.
In any practicable transformer design there is only a limited space available in which to put the windings. If
you want more power you need thicker
wire (to reduce I2R losses). This means
that you need more space and hence a
bigger transformer.
In general, the optimal space available for the secondary winding(s) is
practically the same whether you have
one secondary winding or two. If you
design for a centre-tap configuration
you would need twice as many turns
on the secondary winding(s) as you
would for a bridge configuration. This
means that thinner wire must be used
and the effective winding resistance
would be doubled.
Imagine a transformer with two
identical secondary wind
ings. You
can connect the windings in parallel
for a bridge configuration or in series
for a centre-tapped configuration.
The parallel connection has half the
resistance of the centre-tapped configuration for the same no-load output
voltage. Therefore the I2R loss under
load is halved, which translates into
1.4 times as much total power for the
same I2R loss.
Although for reduced duty cycles
the power loss is increased compared
with the output power, the duty cycle
makes no difference to the advantage
offered by the bridge configuration
www.siliconchip.com.au
over the centre-tapped configuration.
This is because for any given duty cycle the RMS current is the same. Hence
the I2R loss for the centre-tapped configuration is always double that for the
bridge configuration.
Incidentally, if you include the I2R
loss in the primary winding, which
is independent of the output configuration, the advantage of the bridge
configuration over the centre-tapped
one is somewhat less than otherwise
but the principles remain the same.
Herman Nacinovich,
Gulgong, NSW.
Officious letters
not necessary
I have been away from home for
some time and started to catch up on
some reading, SILICON CHIP included! I
was amazed at some of the correspondence and indeed the tone of some of it.
I wish particularly to take issue with
Mr Ian Stanley-Eyles’ letter published
in your November issue.
I gather by the tone of the letter
that Mr Stanley-Eyles is either a civil
servant or a solicitor, in whichever
case there was no need for the very
thinly veiled threat embodied in the
correspondence, essentially demanding a legal disclaimer and suggesting
that a magazine such as yours was
in any way acting outside the law
deliberately!
I do not believe a letter of that tone
is needed in the columns of a magazine
like this!
I wish also to make comment regarding the ongoing debate regarding electrical installations and who may carry
out electrical work. It seems to me, as
it has to others, that the arguments
coming from the electrical safety
authorities are nothing other than the
oft-repeated views of a bunch of electricians turned civil servants trying
to keep the “old boys club” going by
excluding not only competent laymen,
but also highly qualified technicians
and engineers, from doing what they
are more than capable of doing and
doing, in many cases, better than a
so-called qualified electrician.
The civil servants charged with
the duty of public safety in matters
electrical should move aside and let
people do their own wiring.
Steve Newson,
via email.
Don’t change
electronics content
Firstly, it’s great to see that SILICON
CHIP has not strayed from its original
philosophy with regards to content.
I have been collecting (much to the
anguish of my wife) all the Australian local electronics magazines since
1980 when I was studying electrical
engineering at the UNSW and have
been a subscriber to SILICON CHIP for
a number of years now.
I was horrified when the “other”
locally produced electron
ics magazine made a severe change of content
direction. Its recent withdrawal from
publication probably reflected the
same opinion from other readers. I
guess what I’m trying to say is that
you people at SILICON CHIP are doing
a tremendous job and should keep
doing what you do best.
Con Andrews,
via email.
Virtues of
negative feedback
I need to comment a little on your
response to the reader “G. W.” who
asked questions about the Ultra-LD
Amplifier in the February 2002 issue,
page 91.
I notice that you advertise audio
books by Self and Hood in the same
issue, pp 86, 87. G. W. and the friends
who advise him, would do well to read
both of these books. Self and Hood
don’t always agree but their books
are clear, informative, useful and fun
to read.
G. W. mentions “a few people I
know ... anyone can achieve low THD
with lots of feedback”. Many people
who know a little of electronics find
March 2002 5
feedback difficult and seem to want
to regard it with suspicion and as an
unnatural “black art”. I am willing to
admit that in my student days, I built
quite a few amplifiers that oscillated
- and oscillators that didn’t. But difficulty doesn’t justify suspicion.
Let me try to dispel the biggest part
of the feedback myth first. Feedback
is not at all unnatural; nature uses it
by the truckload. Feedback is what
enables us as humans to walk about
on two legs. Anything tall and skinny
with bendy bits in all sorts of peculiar
places is unstable and this becomes
conspicuous when we are drunk,
asleep or dead - we fall over.
In our legs, we don’t just have
muscles and bones, we have umpteen
nerves dedicated to monitoring what
bit is pointing where. Behind our ears,
we have special balance canals filled
with special fluid and zillions of tiny
hairs, so we can know which way is
up; we also use our eyes.
When doctors ask us to stand on
one leg and shut our eyes, they are
checking for a certain social disease.
It damages nerves and people with
that disease don’t get enough feedback
and fall over.
Moving away from nature a little,
feedback is what enables us to drive
a car. Most drivers pay attention to
where the car is on the road. If too
far to the left, they steer to the right;
if too far to the right, they steer to the
left. Back to bodies: feedback is what
keeps us alive. Many, probably most,
of the chemicals sploshing about in
our bodies are regulated by feedback
systems. Too little oxygen, our heart
beats faster; too much carbon dioxide,
we breathe faster. Many illnesses happen when some feedback mechanism
breaks down. No feedback: no us!
Let me move on to the “less feedback
is better” myth. It isn’t. The authoritative explanation is: P. J. Baxandall,
“Wireless World”, December 1978, pp
53-56. In layman’s terms, a little bit
of feedback can do only the easy bit:
suppressing the low-order distortion
6 Silicon Chip
components. However, it can’t do the
difficult bit: suppressing the high order
distortion components.
Indeed, the way it suppresses the
low-order ones is by turning them into
high-order ones. A little bit of feedback
makes things worse, not better. It is
really dumb to do gross, brutal things
like using Class A to reduce feedback.
The implication that “anyone can
use lots of feedback” is a myth too.
That is the big problem with feedback.
It is necessary but difficult to use lots
of it. That is why I made amplifiers
that oscillated while I was a student.
Feedback is much more like porridge
than like sex. Like porridge, feedback
needs to be “just right”; bad feedback
is bad and definitely not, “better than
nothing”.
But getting it “just right” isn’t
easy. It is necessary to understand it
well, to do a few moderately difficult
calculations, and to do even more
testing to double and triple check that
it is “just right”. But once it is right,
then it is RIGHT, and it deserves no
more suspicion than a person who
can stand on one leg with their eyes
shut.
Keith Anderson,
Kingston Tas.
Australian 3-pin plug
and socket
I am able to provide some background to the questions posed by
Dick Smith (Mailbag, Jan 2002) regarding the origin of the Australian
3-pin mains plug. The design was
adopted, around 1930, as a result of a
“Gentlemen’s agreement” (there was
no Standards Australia then) between
Fred Cook of Ring-Grip, Geoffrey
Gerard of Gerard Industries, and Brian
Harper Miller of the SECV.
They based the design very closely
on an existing American plug, and
although that American design has
apparently now faded into obscurity,
I believe that same American design
is the reason that Argentina and
Chile and probably also China, also
use essentially the same design. New
Zealand copied the Australian design
as Australian electrical appliances
and equipment were exported across
the Tasman.
One of the reasons behind the adoption of that particular design by the
three Australian gentlemen was that it
was cheap to make; the flat pins could
be easily stamped out of sheet brass, in
contrast to round pins or thicker rectangular ones used in other countries.
This was also a consideration when the
Chinese authorities officially adopted
the design in relatively recent times,
despite the considerable inroads the
British plug had made due to its use
in Hong Kong.
The Chinese made one change,
however; the earth pin is at the top.
This is considered to offer some protection should a conductive object
fall between the plug and the socket.
An interesting piece of trivia is that
this is referred to in Hong Kong as
the “emu foot” or “emu track” plug,
as the socket when viewed with the
earth slot uppermost does resemble
the track of an emu.
I thank Dennis Perry and Norm Zerner (presently and formerly of Gerard
Industries) and Max Steen, a former
colleague of mine in the Approvals
Branch at ETSA, for their help with
this information.
David Inkster,
Meadows, SA.
TV for collector/restorer
I have just been given a Healing
B/W valve TV set, not working due to
blown input fuse. The set is in great
condition and may be suitable for a
collector. It is a Healing 17, with the
circuit diagram in the rear indicating
a Chassis 5M150-5M075-4M150-958
RUN 3.
I would hate to throw it away and
would be happy to pass it on to anyone
who could do something with it.
Ashley Hosking,
PO Box 73, Basket Range, SA, 5138.
Phone (08) 8390 3442.
www.siliconchip.com.au
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Australia is going solar – or at least that’s
what we’re told by Government agencies,
environmentalists and corporate spin
doctors. But if you take a really good look
look
at what’s
on offer,
arereally
you getting
at what’s
on offer,
are you
getting
a good deal?
a good deal?
Solar Power for All:
Does it
Add Up?
By Ross Tester
8 S
8 Silicon
iliconCChip
hip
www.siliconchip.com.au
www.siliconchip.com.au
A ten-panel “plug&power” rooftop system from Pacific Solar. This would be capable of generating 1.5kW and cost between $10,000 and $15,000. Photo courtesy Pacific Solar.
W
ith much fanfare and breastbeating, several initiatives
have been announced to
convince Australians to generate their
own electricity, simply by placing
photo-voltaic (or solar power) panels
on their otherwise-wasted roof space.
Of course, there is nothing particularly new about generating electricity
from the sun. Photo-voltaics have been
known about – and used – for many
decades.
There are two main reasons that
it has taken a recent boost in profile:
(1) “Green” is fashionable. Concern
about the environment has escalated
dramatically in the last decade to the
point where some people are prepared
to pay extra for “green” power.
(2) Perhaps even more importantly,
vast improvements have been made in
the efficiency of photo-voltaic cells in
recent years. And with the amount of
money being poured into R&D, it is
expected this will continue.
Coupled with this is a very significant reduction in cost – as volumes
rise, costs should continue to fall.
“Greenhouse” gases
If you say something often enough
www.siliconchip.com.au
and loud enough, most people start
believing it. Could this be the case with
the so-called “greenhouse effect”?
The theory, albeit very abridged,
goes something like this: we humans
produce too much carbon dioxide. The
two main culprits of CO2 production
are (of course) that evil monster, the
car, along with fossil-fuel (mainly coal)
burning power stations.
Problem is, no-one wants to give
up their car or turn off the air conditioner!
This large amount of CO2 acts like
a one-way valve for sunlight (and
therefore heat) entering our atmosphere and striking the earth. The
earth heats up, which will eventually
cause polar ice caps to melt which
in turn will cause oceans to rise,
flooding low-lying areas. Another
consequence is a major change in
climatic conditions.
Cut the CO2 emissions and we’ll cut
the greenhouse effect. It’s that simple.
The point is, it is still JUST a theory.
Most people are firmly convinced it
is fact, simply because there are so
many people telling them it is fact. We
even have Government departments
and agencies set up to deal with the
“problem”. However, there are many
experts around the world who don’t
believe the greenhouse effect is the
one true gospel. Many refer to it as the
“greenhoax” effect.
In 1995, skeptical scientists signed
the Leipzig Declaration on Global
Climate Change, stating that they
“cannot subscribe to the so-called
‘scientific consensus’ that envisages
climate catastrophes and advocates
hasty actions.”
But their voices are generally not
heard amongst the incredibly sophisticated PR machine of the environmental lobby.
The greenhouse effect is taught in
schools as fact. The alternative point
of view – that climate change is a
natural phenomenon – barely rates
a mention.
Yes, there is some evidence of global
climatic change. That proves the theory, of course – except that there is also
evidence that the Antarctic continent
is colder now than it has been since
records were started! Whoops – better
ignore that one!
And in the overall scheme of things,
we’re still only talking the blink of an
eye in not just human history, but the
March 2002 9
Wind and water:
two of the most
prolific and
abundant forms
of renewable
energy. At right is
Australia’s largest
wind farm near
Albany in Western
Australia. Below is
the turbine hall of
a hydro-electric
power station. No
wonder they call
it “clean” power!
into the decaying material underground. While not truly renewable
energy (it must run out in time!) it
is relatively non-polluting (in fact,
it uses and therefore removes a potentially polluting gas).
Another form of bio-energy burns
the waste material from a production process (eg, the bagasse left
over from sugar-cane crushing) in a
similar manner. In many instances,
this also produces steam and other
energy for use in the plant – socalled “cogeneration.”
Courtesy
Western Power.
history of our planet.
Who is right? Only time will tell.
In the meantime, it does make sense
to try to limit the amount of CO2 and
other pollutants entering out atmosphere from power stations – if only
to make us feel better about the air
we breathe!
And that’s where “clean, green”
renewable-energy electricity comes in.
Green power
Photovoltaic cells are not the only
way to produce non-polluting electricity. There are four main ways to
do it:
(a) Wind-generated power – this has
started to make an impact in Australia recently with several “wind
farms” established in relatively-constantly-windy areas. The advantage
is that the wind is free, if not constant. One disadvantage, apart from
fairly low output per generator, is
reportedly the swishing noise of
the blades for people living within
a few kilometers!
To show just how far wind farms
10 Silicon Chip
have come, in January this year it
was announced that the world’s
largest wind farm, a 520MW, 200
turbine installation, would be built
off the coast of Ireland at a cost of
more than $1 billion. Proponents
claim that wind farms will be able
to produce more than two thirds of
Europe’s electricity by 2020.
Incidentally, the first grid-connected wind farm in Australia was
opened at Crookwell, NSW in 1998.
At 4.8MW it doubled the previous
wind generation capacity in the
country! For more information on
the Crookwell wind farm, see the
January 1999 SILICON CHIP.
The largest wind farm in Australia
is currently the 21.6MW plant at
Albany, WA, with twelve 1800kW
turbines on 65m towers.
(b) Bio-energy – burns the methane gas
created during the natural decomposition of organic material to drive
a turbine. Several bio-mass power
stations have been established on
the sites of old rubbish tips, tapping
(c) Water-generated power – immediately, most people think of
hydro-electric and for the most part
(at least in Australia) they’d be right.
However, the “green power” people
will not allow their power to be
sourced from any new dam or river
diversion so this option is now, for
all intents and purposes, at its peak
(upgrades to existing hydro-electric
facilities are allowed).
Turbo installations range from
backyard, hobby types (perhaps on
a stream flowing through a rural
property) producing perhaps a couple of hundred watts, to giant dams
with huge flows of water, producing
many megawatts.
There is another source of water
power, as yet relatively unknown in
Australia, and that is tidal. In many
places in the world (including the
north-west of Western Australia)
tide heights are measured in tens of
metres and this inflow and outflow
can be used to generate electricity
via a turbine. The disadvantage is
that the flow stops, builds, reaches
a peak, stops, builds in the opposite
direction, reaches a peak and stops
again, twice every day. Due to lack
of flow around high and low tide,
electricity of any significant magnitude can only be generated for
perhaps half to two-thirds of each
six-hour cycle.
An ocean wave converter generator is reported to be currently
under construction (or at least in
planning) off the coast of Portland,
Victoria.
(d) And, of course, solar power,
where in most cases the electrical
energy is created through sunlight
striking a photo-voltaic cell. Until
quite recently, the amount of power
generated this way was either very
www.siliconchip.com.au
small or very expensive – but this
is changing. It is solar power we are
looking at in this feature.
Before we leave this introduction
there are two other forms of solar
power generation which bear mentioning.
The first is where a large “field”
(perhaps several hectares) of
sun-tracking mirrors (called a “heliostat”) focus the sun’s rays on a
steam-producing boiler (usually high
on a tower). This in turn drives a
turbine, generating electricity. Such
systems are in use overseas. The
temperature at the focal point of the
mirrors can be extremely high – many
thousands of degrees!
The second form of solar generation, still somewhat in the “theoretical” stage but likely to appear
this decade, is a huge solar-powered
“chimney”, incredibly tall (a kilometre or more) and 5km wide at the
base. The sun heats air at the base
which rushes up the chimney, driving
turbines on the way. Such a project,
which will have a peak output of
200MW, has recently been announced
for Ned’s Corner in far north-western
Victoria.
But this is not quite the solar installation for a suburban house!
Solar for all
There is no doubt about it – the
“push” for solar power is gaining
momentum (even if the installation
is not quite keeping pace).
It received quite a “kick along” prior
to the 2000 Olympic Games when 629
buildings in the Olympic Village (now
the suburb of Newington) as well as
the 19 lighting towers on Olympic
Boulevarde were fitted with solar
power modules from BP Solar.
You may have seen recent television adverts supporting the “solar for
schools” project – in fact, there are
now more than 25 schools listed as
“generators” of electricity via their
solar panels.
Few, if any, would be significant net
producers of power; they would use
all the power they generate themselves
(thereby reducing their energy bills).
They are somewhat fortunate in that
most, if not all, of their power demand
occurs during daylight hours.
When you have large expanses of
roof space (and often, in the case of
schools, elevated roof space at that,
away from shading of trees and other
buildings) there is room to fit large
numbers of solar panels.
The rule is simple: the more panels,
the more power. On the downside,
naturally, the more panels, the higher
the initial cost.
But even with a large installed solar capacity, can a school – or even a
house – generate enough electricity
to make it an economic proposition?
You be the judge.
One product/company which
caught our attention (after much media fanfare!) is “Plug&Power” from
Pacific Solar. This company, by the
way, is a spin-off from the University
of NSW which provided the intellectual property.
The company’s vision is “to have
developed solar cells seen across the
rooftops of the world”. While this is
a laudable objective, their claim that
“the majority of households have
enough sunshine and roof area to produce their entire energy needs” bears
closer examination.
Its solar panels measure 1.68m
x 0.84m (1.41 square metres). Each
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One of the first
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pilot-line. These
30cm x 40cm
modules were
sufficiently large
for researchers to
address most of
the issues involved in scaling
up technology to
commercial size of
up to 1m2. Photo
courtesy Pacific
Solar.
www.siliconchip.com.au
March 2002 11
its payback period beats me!)
Note that none of the grid-connected
systems (as far as we are aware) have
any form of storage – ie, no batteries. This means you cannot get any
power from your system at night, nor
anything significant when it’s raining
(or even heavy cloud). When it does
produce power, you either use it – or
sell it.
Selling your electricity
The owner of this house in Sydney’s inner west “is interested in a sustainable
future”. He chose Plug&Power because of the “low maintenance, design and
modular construction”. Pic courtesy Pacific Solar.
comes complete with its own inverter
and is capable of generating 150W in
direct sunlight mounted at the right
angle on a north/north-east-facing
roof.
Pacific Solar maintain that the average house in Sydney has enough roof
area to allow 21 modules (29 square
metres). These are capable of producing around 3.2kW (maximum).
Their examples, to give them credit,
are based on a probably-more-realistic
15-module, 2.25kW system.
According to accepted figures,
there is 1500kWh/kW of solar energy
available in Sydney per annum. With
a 95% efficient panel mounting (28°
angle, north-east facing) that reduces
the figure to 1425kWh/kW.
Their figures assume an annual
electricity usage of about 6800kWh
in a year. The 15-module system
is capable of producing nearly half
the annual usage (1425 x 2.25 =
3206kWh). But is that realistic? And
what happened to the earlier claim
of “to produce their entire energy
needs?”
I know that in my own case, the
6800kWh is very much understated.
My last four electricity bills shows
it’s closer to 10000kWh. And that’s
for a two-person household (albeit
all-electric, with a pool).
On the face of it, to produce
10000kWh “to provide all my energy
needs” I would need to have not 21
12 Silicon Chip
modules but 46. That’s some 66 square
metres of roof area which have to face
the right direction – north!
Admittedly, about 30% of this energy is for hot water and you wouldn't
use solar electricity to heat water
(you’d simply use a solar heater). But
that would take away some of my roof
space . . .
What cost?
So far, we haven’t looked at costs –
let’s do so now.
To install a solar power system,
you’re up for anywhere between
$5000 and $30,000, depending on
size (of system) and the supplier.
Large systems may go even higher
(we’ve seen quotes for $50,000). Now
before you fall of your chair, it’s not
quite that bad because the Australia
Government has a rebate program
to encourage more people to install
solar power.
There are various rebates depending
on the size of your installation. A small
installation is worth $5.00 per watt of
installed solar capacity while a larger
one is worth $7500 plus (in NSW)
$2.40 per watt over 1500W.
The program, which is available
to all owner-occupiers, runs out in
2004. There are some conditions, one
of which is an agreement to keep the
system running for at least five years.
(Why on earth you would spend all
that money and pull it out way inside
If you install a system which generates more power than you can use,
in many cases you can sell the excess
back to your power company. Some
energy suppliers apparently do not
yet have a firm policy on this but of
those that do, the majority will pay
you (or give you a credit on your bill)
at the same rate as you currently pay
for electricity.
In at least one case, it’s much more
generous than that: the Northern Territory’s Power and Water Authority
sell power to you at 12.9c per kilowatt-hour but will buy power back
from you at 16.9c per kilowatt hour!
Hey, let’s move to Darwin!
In some cases the power companies
will charge you extra to install either a
special bi-directional electricity meter
(normal meters cannot run backwards)
or install an “outgoing” meter which
is read in conjunction with your normal “incoming” meter. The first is
subtracted from the second to achieve
your power usage.
Payback period
Putting in a solar system is not
going to make you rich in power
savings. In fact, it’s probably not
even going to break even. Let’s look
at the sums:
Say the system you put in costs
$20,000. Take off the full Government
rebate and you’re still paying more
than $11,000.
If your current electricity bill is,
say, an average of $200 per quarter,
$11000 is equivalent to 55 quarters –
almost 14 years – before you recover
your investment. Take into account
interest lost or paid and it’s probably
more like 20 years. Even discounting
a tad for the pittance you’ll receive
in energy credits, you’re still well
over 18 years before it starts paying
for itself.
Given that the average Australian
family will move house at least once
(and probably twice or more) in that
www.siliconchip.com.au
Better ways to save “greenhouse” gases
So installing a solar system on your
roof may not be the way to go. But
you still want to do something about
reducing greenhouse gases. What
can you do? There are plenty of things
you can do and they will also give you
a big payback in terms of reduced
energy bills.
Here are some of them:
(1) Buy a new car. No, we are serious.
If your car is more than ten years
old, you should buy a new one, to
help the environment. Can’t afford
a new car? Well, then you certainly
can’t afford “plug&power” or any
other of these schemes either.
(2) Get rid of your lumbering full-size
4WD. We cannot understand how
anybody who is concerned about
greenhouse gases can justify driving these monstrosities. Typically,
they use 80% more fuel than a big
car such as a Commodore, Falcon,
Mitsubishi Magna or Toyota Avalon.
And full size 4WD vehicles use at
least twice the amount of fuel compared to medium-size cars such
as Ford Lasers, Toyota Corollas,
Mitsubishi Lancers etc.
safer than 4WD vehicles. OK, so you
want a 4WD for your bush holidays.
Fine. Buy a small car and hire a 4WD
during your holidays – you will still
save heaps.
(3) Buy a new fridge. If you don’t have
air-conditioning or a swimming pool,
your refrigerator’s electricity use is a
major part of your electricity bill. New
refrigerators are much more efficient
than your old unit, especially if it is
more than ten years old.
By the way, put your old fridge on the
next council cleanup for recycling.
Don’t use it as a beer fridge or give it
away for the same use – you do want
to see electricity saved, don’t you?
(4) Get rid of your freezer. Most households simply don’t need a separate
freezer. You’re better off using fresh
meat anyway. Instead, buy the largest refrigerator which will fit into your
kitchen and use the freezer compartment in that.
(5) Replace your old dish-washer.
New machines use less water and
consume less power. They’re much
quieter, too.
with a gas system. It may not be
cheaper to buy or to run, but it will
produce less greenhouse gases.
(7) Use gas heating or a reverse-cycle air-conditioner for your home
heating in winter. Gas heaters are
far more expensive to buy than
electric radiators but they produce
less greenhouse gas to give the
same (or more) heat. The same
comment goes for a reverse-cycle
air-conditioner. They cool in summer, as well.
(8) Install a solar hot water system.
This list is not comprehensive but if
you really want to spend some money to reduce your greenhouse gas
emissions, these are the intelligent
decisions you can make.
OR you can invest your money in
“green” companies. If you have lazy
$5000 or more laying about, why
not invest it in companies which are
committed to a “green” outlook.
Apart from being much cheaper to
drive (and therefore more greenhouse-friendly), new cars are much
(6) Use gas hot water. When your electric hot water system fails, replace it
There are quite a few such companies listed on the Australian Stock
Exchange or you can invest in an
“ethical” managed fund. That way, you
benefit the environment and hopefully,
make a profit as well.
18 years, you will probably never get
out of the red!
Can’t afford a big system? Here’s
one being marketed at the moment:
Pacific Solar’s "Member’s Pack”. It
comprises a three-module system
along with a Sunlogger (keeps track
of energy generated), a Sundown
program for your PC and a regular
newsletter.
It costs just under $6000 (and that’s
after the government rebate) but the
one thing you can be sure of is that
you won’t ever generate much power
to sell!
They claim this system “on average
will supply enough electricity over a
year to run the lights, television, video,
microwave and toaster of the average
house. . .”
Oh yeah?
Let’s see: the three-module system
at best generates 450 watts. But that
doesn’t happen from dawn to dusk.
Nor does it happen when it’s cloudy
or rainy.
We mentioned the accepted figure
of available solar energy in Sydney
is 1425kWh/kw per annum. With the
450W system, you’re going to produce
641kWh per year (.450 x 1425)
OK, so you have this 641kWh per
year to play with.
Now let’s see. In order – lights in an
average home, say 10 rooms with an
average 75W globe; 750W. Television:
oh, about 250W. Video: a modern one,
say 50W. Microwave: about 1000W.
Toaster (even a measly little one):
800W. All that comes to a smigeon
under 3000W.
Naturally, not everything is going to
be on all the time. The average Aussie
TV set is on for 5 hours a day. 5 hours
x 365 days x 250 watts = 456kWh
per annum. Most people leave their
videos on constantly – 440kWh. The
toaster may only get a workout for 10
minutes a day (if that) – 48kWh and
the microwave perhaps half an hour a
day – 182kWh. Lights, of course, vary
all over the place and are usually only
on for 5-6 hours a night. Let’s then
assume that one third of the lights will
be on at any one time – say 22kWh
(probably a bit conservative because
most light usage will be in the kitchen/
living/lounge room areas).
That’s 456 + 440 + 48 + 182 + 22
. . . 1200kWh (1.2MWh) per annum,
in round figures. Now when I was at
school (it was a couple of years ago
and things might have changed . . .)
1200kWh into 640kWh doesn’t go
(even if I did fail maths!).
So who is kidding whom?
www.siliconchip.com.au
March 2002 13
Solar panel installations do
not have to be roof-mounted.
This one is on a frame in the
back yard and has the added
advantage of being able to
turn to track the sun, keeping
the angle at the optimum for
virtually the whole day.
Incidentally, buying that 1200kWh
from your electricity supplier at 10c
per kWh will cost you the princely
sum of $120. Makes the $6000 installation cost of the solar system looks
pretty sick, doesn’t it?
640kWh would of course cost about
$64 so you’re looking at a payback
period of, oh, about 100 years give
or take.
Of course, all this assumes that
energy costs will stay around where
they are now. While most fuels have
risen dramatically in recent years,
electricity is one which has shown
admirable restraint.
Again, I remember from school in
the (late!) sixties, we used a figure of
5c per kilowatt hour in maths problems. Today my power bill says I pay
9.38c per kilowatt hour – not bad
for forty years of often double-digit
inflation!
But that’s not to say our electricity
costs will not increase in the future:
they probably will. Then there may
be some better cost justification for
domestic solar power.
Costs of the solar panels themselves will almost certainly continue to fall. Not only due to costs of
production but also due to the huge
amount of R&D investment, solar
panels will not only get cheaper in
the future, they will get more efficient
at converting the sun’s energy into
electrical energy.
And Pacific Solar, among others,
are getting pretty excited about thin
film solar panels which are expected
to start appearing about the middle of
this decade. This second generation
PV technology is expected to more
than halve the cost of manufacture.
14 Silicon Chip
While we're talking of the future, let
me throw this one in: all the reading
I’ve done on this subject tells me that
heat is one of the biggest problems
with solar panels. So why not produce
a solar panel which is water cooled
– presto, a solar water heater built
into the photovoltaic panel? Sounds
feasible, don’t you think?
Another random thought (I have
plenty of those): it seems to me that
cladding a roof (with tiles, iron, etc)
then placing the solar panels above
that is a waste of roof cladding. Why
not make a solar panel which IS the
roof cladding?
But I digress . . .
The environment
Most of the “case studies” I have
read involve a significant environmental commitment on the part of the
homeowner installing solar power.
They wanted to “do their bit” for the
environment and were willing to pay
to do it.
Australians today are generally
much more environmentally conscious than their parents or grandparents. In those days there was scant
information about the environment;
there was even less effort to improve
it.
Today, that’s all changed. We recycle
our garbage as much as possible. We
try not to pollute our waterways. We’re
conscious about dirty car exhausts.
And so on. People today get a “warm
and fuzzy” feeling about doing the
environment good.
Even if they are sometimes misinformed or even misguided, that
doesn’t hurt anyone and may leave
the planet a better place for our
children!
If you believe in the greenhouse
effect and want to minimize CO2, fair
enough. Each Plug&Power module installed (or similar product from other
suppliers) prevents almost 250kg of
CO2 from being generated in a coalfired power station each year. Wow!
(Yes, I am being facetious . . .)
A 10-module installation (1.5kW)
will save over 60 tonnes of CO2 over
the system’s 25-year life.
Again, in the overall scheme of
things this isn’t going to achieve much
at all. There are much better ways
to reduce energy use and therefore
“save the environment” (see separate
panel).
Despite the intense efforts of the
Government and industry to promote
solar energy for homes, the Australian Bureau of Statistics has indicated
recently that the use of renewable
energy, especially solar power for
domestic purposes, has actually
declined.
Perhaps consumers are thinking
more with their wallets than their
SC
hearts?
References:
(These are just some of the websites where you’ll find information on solar power
for the home. Google "solar power" and you’ll get thousands more!)
Pacific Solar ("Plug&Power" is their trademark): www.pacificsolar.com.au
BP Solar: www.bp.com/bpsolar
Western Power (WA): www.westernpower.com.au
Citipower (Melbourne): www.citipower.com.au
Energy Australia (Sydney): www.energyaustralia.com.au
An excellent educational site for school projects, general information, etc:
www.env.qld.gov.au/sustainable-energy/publicat/
Links to hundreds of solar power sites: www.pv.unsw.edu.au/solpages.html
The "Greenhoax" effect: www.geocities.com/Yosemite/7915/Greenhoax.html
(or Google "Greenhoax effect")
www.siliconchip.com.au
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ASSEMBLY: As used in small household style DIGITAL ENTERTAINMENT
heaters, around 2kW total at 240V but not linear, the This special edition is supplied with the PCI card, Software on CD arranged into 6 strings of 5 leds in
resistance of each element is around 600ohms and leads to connect the card to a CD-ROM. Visit the creative series. PCB Measures 78 x
when cold, could be used at
website for further information. These are brand new in their retail 49mm (Replaces The lid of our
lower voltages for incupackaging. A manual is not supplied but can be downloaded The Hb1 small Plastic box
available Separately).
bators or dummy loads
card has a digital output
KIT PRICE: (K102) $20
etc. etc, 240V/120mm
suitable for driving the
(USED) 33.6K HAYES ACCURA MODEM:
fan, plus a triple mains
Boston Acoustics sound
Why get a 56K Modem when most telephone lines only
rated switch will be
system: (SBDE51) $100
allow up to 33.6K? These 33.6K Hayes ACCURA 336
supplied with each unit,
These cards can only be
External Modems are in good condition. We supply
the whole assembly for
purchased with a Boston
these modems with a 9V <at> 1A plugpack. The
less than the price of
Acoustics sound system.
plugpack has a different connector and will require
the fan!: $15
Previous purchasers of
changing (correct plug not supplied). We are selling
the Boston Acoustics
these modems for a small amount of their retail price:
sound system may also
BARGAIN BUSINESS SPEAKER(ZB0302) $22 each (limited quantity)
Purchase these cards.
PHONE: BACK AGAIN!
(NEW) HOTDOG JUNIOR
ITS BACK!!! GIANT SERVO REDESIGNED
With a new servo controller chip (M5660L to replace This Web Page Creation
the obsolete ZN409), as used by a large number of Software is Brand New in
hobby servo manufactures. This kit is Ideal for original packaging. Inc. two
robotics projects and will work just like a normal CDs, one Hotdog Junior CD
servo with our servo controller kit or with regular for Web Page creation & the
other CD has 50,000 Clipart
Radio Control equipment. Use your
Objects. This software helps
own motor and gearbox or
you create & publish your first
we may have some
Web Page in four basic steps.
To suit , Check
It is designed for children 6
our web site.
years & up but it can also be
$28
used by adults (beginners).
Coming soon
We are selling this software
NEW FWD/REV &
for a fraction of it’s retail price.
FWD/BRAKE R/C speed controllers
Check out
http://www.
SERVO CONTROLLER CHIP M5660L sausagetools.com/products/
for more info(ZB0320) $11 ea.
Replacement for the obsolete Zn409. We have
5
1
$
9
6
1
$
AS REVIEWED IN THIS MAGAZINE
$5
5
PANASONIC KX-TS85ALW telephones were used
during the 2000 Olympics.
Lots of features inc. speed
dialler, Hands Free Volume
Control, Call Waiting, Ringer
Indicator, Call Forward, Dial
lock, Redial, Recall. You will
find these as a newly introDELUXE BINOCULARS:
duced product in a Major
These 3 x 22 Binoculars are Brand New in original
Australian Electronics dealers'
packaging. These are adjustable and are very clear
catalogue for $161. Manual is
with a resolution of 3x. It
not supplied but can be downcan also be fully dismantled
loaded from our web-site(KXTS85)
for experimental purposes.
(Used) The Citizen iDP3530 Printer:
These Binoculars are
These Printers are in excellent condition and are
excellent for watching
made in Japan. They come with basic software, a
cricket, tennis and any
Brand New Paper roll and a Ribbon. The Citizen
printer is a rugged Point of Sale Printer with a serial RADIO CONTROL CAR / TRUCK REAR AXLE (DIFERENTIAL) other sports. ZB0334
ASSEMBLEY Complete drive assembly from a model car $2 (pack of three)
interface. It is capable of being used
including wheels, gearbox and a 380 motor. The wheel diameter
on A wide variety of hardware
(NEW) PROVIEW FRESNEL LENS:
is 9.5 cm and the distance
Type supplied
platforms, not confined to a std
These Fresnel Lens are Brand New and and can be
Between the outside wheels
may differ
PC. This opens up a range of
used as a rear window lens for backing & driving
Is approximately 24 cm.
from the
other uses such as Capturing
safety. The lens enables you
As used in some Tandy
one shown.
call details on a PABX, Logging
to actually see many things
Electric cars. We have a
data from a Weather Station or
you cannot see through your
good quantity in stock for a
recording the Performance
inside
rear mirror or side
Small fraction of
of a Solar Water Heater. Any
mirror
- greatly increases
Their retail price.
equipment with a standard RS232 port
the angle of vision. Also a
(MRC1) $13 each
is capable of utilising this printer. $99
great experimental item.
Dimensions are 7" x 10":
(ZB0303) $3 each
We have more used test
CAMBRIDGE SOUNDWORKS COMPUTER SPEAKERS
equipment coming all the time and We have a limited quantity of these Cambridge SoundWorks GCS300
we need to clear stock to make way Computer Speakers. These are Brand New in original packaging that
for the next lot. The only way to includes two speakers with power supply, cables, and manual.
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make sure you don’t miss out is to Response: 90 - 20kHz...
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Controls: On/off/master
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Dimension:153X101X114mm..(GCS300): $22 - limited quantity.
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major cards with ph. & fax orders, Post & Pack typically $7 Prices subject to change without notice ACN 068 740 081 ABN18068 740 081
SC_MAR_02
A COMPACT 70W CLASS-H
AUDIO AMPLIFIER MODULE
Based on a Philips TDA1562Q IC, this compact audio
amplifier module can deliver up 70W into a 4-ohm load
when powered from a 12V car battery. It’s just the shot
for use in a portable PA, a tiny sub-woofer amplifier, a
busking amplifier or a car audio amplifier.
By RICK WALTERS
O
UR NEW MIGHTY MIDGET
Amplifier can really pack a
punch – around 36W RMS
continuous into a 4-ohm load when
using a 13.8V supply. However, it’s
the 70W of output power that it can
deliver during dynamic (music) signal
conditions that really make you sit up
and take notice.
As can be seen from the photos
and the circuit diagram, the Mighty
Midget uses just a handful of parts.
It’s built on a PC board that measures
just 104mm x 39mm but while its size
may be modest, these’s nothing at all
modest about its power output. And
the noise and distortion figures are
pretty good too.
At the heart of the circuit is the
TDA1562Q IC, described by Philips
as a “monolithic integrated BridgeTied Load (BTL) class-H high-efficiency power amplifier”. It comes
in a 17-pin “DIL-bent-SIL” plastic
package and is not only designed for
use in car audio and portable PA work
but for mains applications as well;
16 Silicon Chip
eg, mini/midi audio components and
TV sound.
Specifications
The specifications panel and the
accompanying graphs show the performance of our prototype, as measured
on our Audio Precision test gear. Note
that the total harmonic distortion
is typically less than 0.2% at 1kHz
for output powers up to about 16W
PERFORMANCE
Output power: 36W RMS into 4Ω
Music power: 70W into 4Ω
Frequency response: -1dB down
at 28Hz and 55kHz
Input sensitivity: 130mV RMS
(for 36W into 4Ω)
Harmonic distortion: typically
0.2% (see graphs)
Signal-to-noise ratio: >95dB
unweighted (22Hz to 22kHz)
RMS, while the signal-to-noise ratio
is better than 95dB unweighted (22Hz
to 22kHz).
The frequency response is virtually
ruler flat from 28Hz to 55kHz.
Pumping it out
So how does it achieve such high
output powers when powered from
a 13.8V rail? Well, it employs a few
clever tricks. Let’s take a closer look.
First, the TDA1562Q chip actually
incorporates two power amplifiers in
its package and these are operated in
bridge mode to boost the available
output power. Fig.1 – the block diagram of the TDA1562Q IC – shows the
general idea.
Normally, if we have just one amplifier stage operating from a 13.8V
supply, the maximum power that can
be delivered into a 4Ω load is about
6W. The reason for this is that the maximum voltage “swing” possible from
a 13.8V supply is 6.9V in the positive
direction and 6.9V in the negative
direction. This is equivalent to about
www.siliconchip.com.au
C1+
5
C13
status I/O
mode
select
16
4
CLASS-B
CLASS-H
FAST MUTE
VP2
10
LOAD DUMP
PROTECTION
TEMPERATURE
SENSOR
disable
STANDBY
MUTE
ON
VP1
9
LIFT-SUPPLY
CURRENT
PROTECTION
VP*
IN+
1
PREAMP
7
POWERSTAGE
75
kΩ
FEEDBACK
CIRCUIT
TDA1562Q
PREAMP
POWERSTAGE
LOAD
DETECTOR
75
kΩ
IN-
Vref
2
DYNAMIC
DISTORTION
DETECTOR
8
11
diagnostic
OUT-
VP*
14
15 kΩ
signal 17
GND
OUT+
DIAGNOSTIC
INTERFACE
disable
LIFT-SUPPLY
TEMPERATURE
PROTECTION
reference
voltage
MGL264
15
C2-
13
C2+
6
PGND1
12
PGND2
Fig.1: block diagram of the TDA1562Q class-H audio amplifier IC. The
“Lift Suppy” stages drive external capacitors (C1 & C2) to boost the supply
rails when needed.
4.88V RMS (ie, 6.9/1.4142).
From there, the mathematics is
simple enough – the power output is
equal to the square of the RMS voltage
divided by the load resistance; ie, P =
V2/R. This means that we get 4.88 x
4.88/4, or about 5.95W RMS.
However, this is a theoretical maximum and is never realised in practice.
The actual output power is likely to
be closer to 4.5W RMS due to losses
in the output devices of the amplifier.
One way of obtaining more power
is to wire two identical power amplifiers in “bridge” mode, with each
amplifier essentially a “mirror” of the
other. One amplifier drives one side of
the loudspeaker in a positive voltage
direction, while the other drives the
other side of the loudspeaker in a
negative voltage direction. As a result,
the voltage across the loudspeaker is
effectively doubled compared to the
voltage delivered by a single power
amplifier.
This doesn’t just double the power
output, though. Instead, as shown
Fig.2: the circuit uses a phase splitter based on IC1a & IC1b to drive the inputs of IC2 in anti-phase.
www.siliconchip.com.au
March 2002 17
Fig.3: total harmonic distortion (THD) vs. frequency at
12W (measurement bandwidth 10Hz-80kHz). The dip at
100Hz is due to cancellation with supply ripple.
Fig.4: total harmonic distortion vs. frequency at 36W
(measurement bandwidth 10Hz-80kHz). It’s less than
0.5% for frequencies from 30Hz to 10kHz.
Fig.5: total harmonic distortion vs. power output at 1kHz
(measurement bandwidth 22Hz-22kHz).
Fig.6: the frequency response at 1W. It’s just 1dB down at
28Hz and 55kHz.
by the above formula, doubling the
voltage swing effectively quadruples
the output power! So if we use two
amplifiers which on their own can
deliver only about 4.5W into 4Ω, we
can expect to obtain about 18W RMS
into the same load when they are
connected in bridge mode.
And 18W RMS is a “helluva” lot
better than 4.5W RMS.
Jacking up the supply
That’s by no means the end of the
story, though. As previously stated,
the TDA1562Q is capable of delivering
36W RMS and up to 70W of music
power.
How does it do this? Well, according
to Philips, at low output powers, up to
18W, the device operates as a normal
BTL amplifier. However, when a larger
output voltage swing is required, the
18 Silicon Chip
internal supply voltage to the power
amplifiers is “jacked up” by using the
“Lift-Supply” stages to switch in two
external electrolytic capacitors – see
Fig.1.
There are no details in the specifications as to how the “Lift-Supply”
stages work but we assume it’s a type
of boot-strapping circuit whereby each
of the two power amplifiers in the
bridge circuit actually “jacks up” an
external 4700µF capacitor to increase
the effective supply voltage.
Normally, the external electrolytic
capacitors are switched across the
13.8V supply and charge to about
12.8V (ie, about 1V less than the
supply rail). When extra power is
required, these capacitors are boosted
up by the respective power amplifiers
so that ultimately, the supply voltage
is almost doubled.
As a result, the amplifier module
can briefly deliver much greater output
power – up to 70W of music power or
up to 36W RMS (ie, continuous power)
as previously mentioned. Of course, it
cannot maintain 70W of output power
for long. The two external capacitors
immediately begin to discharge when
the amplifier is delivering this sort of
power and so the supply rails quickly
falls again.
On practical music signals, however, this isn’t normally a problem, as
the electrolytic capacitors are quickly
switched out and charged again between the signal peaks.
Class-H or Class-G?
Philips refer to this scheme for operating the power amplifiers as class-H
operation. In class-H operation, the
input signal is monitored and the
www.siliconchip.com.au
supply rail is constantly adjusted to
provide just enough voltage for optimum operation of the output devices.
By contrast, class-G operation involves monitoring the input signal and
switching the output stage between
two different supply rails, as required.
In this scheme, the (class-AB) output
stage is normally connected to the
lowest rail and automatically switches
to the higher rail for large signal peaks.
So which of the two schemes is
it? Philips label the TDA1562Q as a
class-H amplifier and we are inclined
to agree with this although we still
don’t know the exact mechanism of
the “Lift Supply” circuitry. No matter
– which ever label is used, it’s very
effective at boosting the output power.
Another advantage of class-H (or
class-G) operation is that it reduces
dissipation in the output stages by
about 50%. That’s because the output
stages operate at low voltage for most
of the time when the amplifier is
driven by music signals. This means
that the heatsink size can be greatly
reduced.
By the way, all switching from
class-AB to class-H opera
tion (and
vice versa) takes place at zero crossing
points of the input signal. This is done
to eliminate switching artefacts, which
could otherwise cause distortion in
the output signal. It’s a very effective
technique – we could find no traces of
switching noise whatsoever.
A rugged device
Another good thing about the
TDA1562Q is that it is virtually indestructible (within limits). It’s output
stage is short-circuit proof (either to
ground, the supply rail or across the
load) and it features thermal overload
protection, good supply ripple rejection and static discharge protection.
There are also no switch-on or
switch-off plops and the output is
automatically muted if the supply
voltage drops below the minimum
operating level. The thermal overload
protection works by automatically
switching the device from class-H to
class-AB operation if its case temperature exceeds 120°C. This basically
disables the high-voltage supply and
thus limits the output power to less
than 20W.
Circuit description
Refer now to Fig.2 for the complete
circuit details of the Mighty Midget
Amplifier. Apart from the TDA1562Q
itself (IC2), there is a dual op amp IC
(IC1), two air-cored inductors and a
few resistors and capacitors.
Op amps IC1a and IC1b together
function as a phase split
ter. These
stages are necessary to provide a
differential input to the amplifiers in
IC2, both of which have their inputs
at pins 1 & 2.
As shown, the input signal is fed
to pin 3 of IC1a. This functions as a
non-inverting amplifier with a gain of
2.4, as set by the 47kΩ and 33kΩ feedback resistors (ie, Gain = 1 + 47/33). Its
output is AC-coupled to pin 2 of IC2
via a 0.1µF capacitor and drives IC1b
which is wired as an inverting unity
gain amplifier.
IC1b in turn drives pin 1 of IC2 via a
0.1µF capacitor. As a result, the signal
on pin 1 is inverted (180° out of phase)
compared to the signal on pin 2 and
so we get true differ
ential drive to
IC2, with a gain of 2.4 for each input.
The input impedance for each pin is
75kΩ (with respect to Vref) and so the
low-frequency rolloff with 0.1µF input
capacitors is about 20Hz.
Bias for IC1a & IC1b is provided by a
voltage divider consisting of two 10kΩ
Parts List
1 PC board, code 01203021,
104 x 39mm
1 1-metre length of 1mm-dia.
enamelled copper wire
1 heatsink (eg, Jaycar HH-8566
& HH-8572; DSE H-3460;
Altronics H-0560 & H-0522)
2 2-way PC-mount screw
terminal block (5.08mm pitch)
4 PC stakes
2 15mm x 6BA machine screws
2 6BA nuts
4 6BA washers
Heatsink compound
Semiconductors
1 TL072 dual FET op amp (IC1)
1 TDA1562Q BTL power amplifier (IC2)
Capacitors
2 4700µF 16VW PC-mount
electrolytic
1 2200µF 25VW PC-mount
electrolytic
2 100µF 25VW PC-mount
electrolytic
1 0.33µF MKT polyester
2 0.22µF MKT polyester
4 0.1µF monolithic ceramic
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
2 47kΩ
4 10kΩ
1 33kΩ
2 2.2Ω 1W
resistors. The resulting half-supply
voltage (Vcc/2) is then filtered using
a 100µF capacitor and is directly connected to pin 5 of IC1b. It also biases
pin 3 of IC1a via a 47kΩ resistor and
this ensures that pin 1 swings symmetrically about Vcc/2.
IC2 operates with a nominal fixed
gain of 20 or 26dB. Its two internal
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A Premier Farnell Company
March 2002 19
Table 2: Capacitor Codes
Value
IEC Code EIA Code
0.33µF 330n 334
0.22µF 220n 224
0.1µF 100n 104
(pin 16) is tied high to ensure that the
amplifier operates in class-H mode.
PC board assembly
Fig.7: follow this layout diagram when installing the parts on the PC
board. Make sure that all polarised parts are correctly oriented.
All the parts for the Mighty Midget
Amplifier are accommo
dated on a
PC board measuring 104mm x 39mm
and coded 01203021. Fig.7 shows the
assembly details.
Before mounting any parts, first
check your PC board for etching defects or undrilled holes by comparing
it with the published pattern (Fig.8).
This done, you can start the assembly
by fitting the wire links, the resistors
and the MKT capacitors. The two
100µF capacitors can then go in, taking
care with their polarity.
Table 1 shows the resistor colour
codes but it’s a good idea to also
check them using a multimeter. That’s
because some of the colours can be
difficult to decipher.
The next step is to wind the two
inductors that are used in the Zobel
networks. These are made by winding
20 turns of 1mm enamelled copper
wire onto a 5mm former (eg, a 5mm
or 3/16-inch drill). Note that you will
have to wind the last five or six turns
back over the winding, so that the
inductor leads line up with the board
mounting holes.
Because of space restrictions, the
inductors are mounted proud of the
PC board, so that they sit clear of
the 2.2Ω resistors. Clean and tin the
ends of the leads before soldering
them in position. That done, fit the
screw terminal block for the supply
connections, followed by PC stakes
for the signal input and loudspeaker
terminals.
Fig.8: this full-size etching pattern for the PC board (code 01203021).
amplifiers amplify the signals on pins
1 & 2 and in turn provide out-of-phase
(mirror image) signals to drive the
bridge tied load (BTL). This BTL consists of a loudspeaker which is fed via
two Zobel networks, each consisting
of a 2.2Ω resistor and a parallel 880nH
inductor.
The Zobel networks present a resistive load to the amplifier at high
frequencies and ensure stability. They
also help reduce transient and RF
interference, which can be picked up
by the loudspeaker leads, from being
fed back into the early stages of the
amplifiers via the feedback paths.
The two external capacitors for the
“Lift Supply” blocks each have a value
of 4700µF. This value determines the
low-frequency power roll-off.
Pins 4 and 16 of IC2 have been tied
high in this circuit. Pin 4 (Mode) must
be tied high for normal operation –
tying it low places IC2 into “standby”
mode (effectively switch
ing it off),
while leaving it open circuit mutes
the output by suppressing the input
signal.
Pins 8 (Diag) and 16 (Status) are
normally used in conjunc
tion with
a microcontroller to monitor various
parameters. For example, the “Dynamic Distortion Detector” inside the
TDA1562Q can detect the onset of
clipping and this information is fed
to the diagnostic output. It could then
be processed to drive a DC-volume
control to attenuate the input signal
accordingly and so limit the distortion.
Similarly, the diagnostic output
can indicate various short-circuit and
temperature conditions. It can either
be left open-circuit or tied to the +12V
rail via a 10kΩ resistor. The Status pin
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
No.
2
1
4
2
20 Silicon Chip
Value
47kΩ
33kΩ
10kΩ
2.2Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
yellow violet orange brown
orange orange orange brown
brown black orange brown
red red gold brown
5-Band Code (1%)
yellow violet black red brown
orange orange black red brown
brown black black red brown
red red black silver brown
www.siliconchip.com.au
The Tiger
comes to
Australia
The BASIC, Tiny and Economy
Tigers are sold in Australia by
JED, with W98/NT software and
local single board systems.
This close-up view shows the prototype PC board. The final version (Fig.7) has
been amended to include a screw-terminal block for the supply connections and
also features improved component spacing (especially near the inductors).
Tigers are modules running true compiled multitasking BASIC in a 16/32 bit core, with typically
512K bytes of FLASH (program and data)
memory and 32/128/512 K bytes of RAM. The
Tiny Tiger has four, 10 bit analog ins, lots of
2
digital I/O, two UARTs, SPI, I C, 1-wire, RTC and
has low cost W98/NT compile, debug and
download software.
JED makes four Australian boards with up to 64
screw-terminal I/O, more UARTs & LCD/keyboard support. See JED's www site for data.
TIG505 Single Board
Computer
The TIG505 is
an Australian
SBC using the
TCN1/4 or
TCN4/4 Tiger
processor with
512K FLASH
and 128/512K RAM. It has 50 I/O lines, 2
RS232/485 ports, SPI, RTC, LCD, 4 ADC, 4 (opt.)
DAC, and DataFLASH memory expansion.
Various Xilinx FPGAs can add 3x 32bit quad shaft
encoder, X10 or counter/timer functions. See
www site for data.
$330 PC-PROM Programmer
The TDA1562Q is secured to the heatsink using two 15mm x 6BA machine
screws, nuts & washers. This also provides sufficient support for the PC board.
IC1 & IC2 can now be installed and
the PC board fitted to the heatsink.
Make sure that IC1 is installed the
right way around, with pin 1 adjacent
to the 47kΩ resistor. IC2 can only go
in one way, so there’s no chance of
confusion here.
The next job is to drill two holes in
the heatsink to match the mounting
holes at either end of the TDA1562Q.
That done, deburr the heatsink
mounting holes using an oversize drill
and smear the mating surface of the
TDA1562Q with heatsink compound.
www.siliconchip.com.au
The assembly can then be bolted
together using two 15mm x 6BA machine screws, nuts and washers.
You can now complete the assembly
by fitting the three large electrolytic
capacitors but watch their polarity –
electro
lytic capacitors have a nasty
habit of exploding if installed the
wrong way around. These capacitors
are all left until last to avoid accidental damage and, in the case of the
centre 4700µF unit, to ensure access
to the lefthand mounting screw for the
TDA1562Q.
This programmer plugs into a PC printer port and
reads, writes and edits any 28 or 32-pin PROM.
Comes with plug-pack, cable and software.
Also available is a multi-PROM UV eraser with
timer, and a 32/32 PLCC converter.
JED Microprocessors Pty Ltd
173 Boronia Rd, Boronia, Victoria, 3155
Ph. 03 9762 3588, Fax 03 9762 5499
www.jedmicro.com.au
March 2002 21
Fig.9 (above left): the top trace shows the continuous output from the amplifier terminals at 36W into 4Ω. The lower two
traces show the individual amplifier outputs which add to give the final BTL output. Fig.10 (above right) shows the same
test conditions as for Fig.9 but with a music-power signal at 70W into 4Ω.
Note that pin 4 (Mode Select), pin
8 (Diag) and pin 16 (Status I/O) have
been brought out to vacant pads. These
are not used in this circuit.
Testing
To test the amplifier module, you
will need a regulated power supply
with an output of 12-15V DC (eg, a car
battery or a 12V SLA battery). Be sure
to connect it to the terminal block with
the correct polarity.
Note: a car battery charger can
NOT be used as a DC supply for this
amplifier module. That’s because
battery chargers deliver significantly
more than 12V (they have to in order
to charge) and also because they don’t
include any filtering.
Initially, you should connect your
multimeter – set to a DC current range
– in series with one of the supply leads.
This done, switch on and check that
the current consumption is some
where in the range of 110-150mA. If
you don’t get this, switch off immedi-
ately and check for wiring mistakes.
After that, it’s simply a matter of
connecting the loudspeaker and feeding in an audio signal to confirm that
it works.
Note that if you are using a mains
power supply to drive the module,
it may lack sufficient output current
capability for the amplifier to deliver
full power during transients. In fact,
a low-current supply could even
activate the muting circuit in the
TDA
1562Q, due to the supply rail
falling below about 8V. Insufficiently
thick supply wire can cause the same
problem - use 4mm (copper) diameter
automotive cable at a minimum.
In practice, to drive the amplifier
to full power, the power supply will
need to be able to deliver at least 6A.
Note too that car electrical systems
normally don’t run at 12V. Instead,
most run at 13.8-14.4V when the motor
is running. The Mighty Midget Amplifier is designed to handle this but
don’t push the supply voltage beyond
about 16V – you’ll exceed the ratings
of the 4700µF electrolytic capacitors
if you do.
Speaker requirements
You can use a huge variety of speakers with this module – even low-power
speakers can be used as long as long
you don’t wind the wick up to far!
The main thing to note is that the
TDA1562Q is designed for use with
4Ω speakers and will deliver maximum
power into 4Ω. Most car audio speakers
are 4Ω for this very reason. Of course,
the amplifier will also quite happily
drive an 8Ω loudspeaker. The drawback
is that you will only get half the power
output compared to a 4Ω speaker.
Finally, there is a common misconception that large speak
ers require
more power to drive than small speakers. This is not usually the case – large
speakers are usually more efficient
than small speakers of similar rating
and will therefore sound louder when
SC
driven by the same amplifier.
UM66 SERIES TO-92
SOUND GENERATOR.
THESE LOW COST IC’S
ARE USED IN MANY TOYS,
DOORBELLS AND NOVELTY
APPLICATIONS
1-9
$1.10
10-24 $0.99
25+
$0.88
EACH INC GST
22 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1 (left): the NCH Tone Generator is
easy to drive and can generate a range
of waveforms from 1Hz to about 20kHz.
Fig.2: below: the selected tone can be saved to disk as a
.wav file with selectable duration. This make it easy to
create a test CD ROM with various tones.
Looking for a simple yet versatile tone
generator that won’t break the bank. If
you already have a PC with a sound card,
this one’s for free!
By GREG SWAIN
Audio tone generators are very useful gadgets when it comes to setting
audio levels and for testing audio
circuits and loudspeakers. However,
provided your requirements are fairly
modest, you don’t need dedicated
hardware. Instead you can use your
PC’s sound card to generate a range
of audio tones.
After all, why pay out big bucks
when you can make a PC do the work
for you? All that’s required is a suitable program to make the sound card
do its stuff.
One such program is “NCH Tone
Generator” – a freeware utility from
NCH Swift Sound. It works with all
flavours of Windows, including Windows 3.1 (remember that?), Win95/98/
Me, Windows NT and Windows 2000.
You can obtain a copy from their
website at www.nch.com.au/action/
index.html and downloading tnsetup.
exe (208KB).
Double-clicking this archive file
automatically creates a folder called
NCHTONE on your C: drive and extracts and installs three files: nchtoner.
exe (the executable), nchtone.hlp (the
help file) and uninst.exe (so that you
can later uninstall the software). In
addition, a shortcut to the program is
placed in the Start menu.
Firing up
Fig.3: tones that have been saved to disk as .wav files can be played back using
media players such as Winamp or the Windows Media Player (WMA).
www.siliconchip.com.au
Running the software brings up
the dialog box shown in Fig.1. You
select the output waveform you want
by clicking the “radio” button next
to it, while the required frequency
is entered either by directly typing
it in or by clicking the “+” and “-”
buttons. The tone output is started
or stopped by clicking the Start and
Stop buttons.
If you have more than one sound
card in your PC, you can select which
March 2002 23
Fig.4: 100Hz sinewave (1.8V pk-pk).
Fig.5: 1kHz sinewave (1.8V pk-pk).
Fig.6: 10kHz sinewave (1.8V pk-pk).
Fig.7: 20kHz sinewave (1.62V pk-pk).
Note the jitter in the waveform.
Fig.8: 100Hz square wave (2.66V pkpk).
Fig.9: 1kHz square wave (2.69V pkpk).
Fig.10: 5kHz square wave. The rise
and fall times are quite poor.
Fig.11: at 10kHz, the waveform is no
longer square.
Fig.12: 100Hz triangle wave (1.78V
pk-pk).
Fig.13: 1kHz triangle wave (1.78V
pk-pk).
Fig.14: 5kHz triangle wave (1.6V pkpk).
Fig.15: at 10kHz, the waveform is not
triangular and varies in amplitude.
one is used to play the sound from a
drop-down list.
As shown in Fig.1, the available
waveforms are: sinewave, square
wave, triangle, sawtooth, impulse
and white noise. The valid frequency
range is from 1Hz to 20kHz (1-20000)
but note that the frequency setting is
irrelevant if white noise is selected.
Once you’ve selected the waveform,
you can use the Line Out from your
sound card to drive external audio
equipment in the normal manner. The
output level can be adjusted using the
mixer settings for the sound card – just
double-click the speaker icon on the
Taskbar to do this.
Note that the program remembers
24 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.16: 100Hz sawtooth (2.22V pkpk).
Fig.17: 1kHz sawtooth (2.17V pkpk).
Fig.18: at 5kHz, the waveform is not
much like a sawtooth.
Fig.18: the 100Hz impulse waveform.
The scope measured it at 200Hz.
Fig.19: the same waveform as Fig.18
but expanded in timebase.
Fig.20: the 1kHz impulse waveform.
The scope measured it at 1.8kHz.
Table 1: Keyboard Controls
Fig.21: this is the output from the
soundcard in white noise mode.
Fig.22: this scope shot shows the sinewave and its distortion products.
the current settings when it’s shut
down, so that they are automatically
loaded next time. How does it do
this? – simple, it writes the shut-down
values to an “ini” file (tone.ini) which
it stores in the Windows folder and
then looks these values up the next
time the program loads.
steps but it all happens too quickly to
be of any real use for the one octave
steps.
Keyboard control
In addition to using the mouse, you
can also drive the program using your
keyboard. The keyboard shortcuts are
as shown in Table 1.
Unlike using the mouse, you can
quickly “pan” from one end of the
frequency range to the other by holding
the keyboard keys down. This can be
useful if you want to “slide” up and
down the frequency range in semitone
www.siliconchip.com.au
Performance
We were interested to check out
quality of the tones, so we hooked our
Audio Precision test gear up and took
a few measurements. The sinewave
distortion was pretty good, at just .01%
THD at both 1kHz and 5kHz, measured
with a bandwidth of 22Hz to 22kHz.
Figs.4-22 show some of the waveforms,
as captured on a Tektronix TDS 3014
colour oscilloscope.
Saving files
There’s just one more feature that
we haven’t mentioned and that’s the
ability to save the selected waveform
Key
Function
Enter
Start
Esc
Stop
+
Increase Frequency One
Semitone
-
Decrease Frequency One
Semitone
Ctrl+
Increase Frequency One
Octave
Ctrl-
Decrease Frequency One
Octave
on the hard disk as a “.wav” file. This
allows you to record a range of preset
tones which can later be played back
by utilities such as Winamp or the
Windows Media Player.
Fig.2 shows the dialog that appears
when you click the “Save As” button
in the NCH Tone Generator utility. It
automatically assigns a filename that
reflects the type of waveform selected
and its frequency and allows you to
set the duration. By default, the file is
placed in the NCHTONE folder but if a
new folder is specified, it subsequently
saves all files to this new location until
SC
it’s changed again.
March 2002 25
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
Terra:
Mission to
Planet Earth
Terra was launched at 1:57 pm EST on December
18, 1999 from Vandenberg Air Force Base, California. After reaching orbit, the satellite successfully
deployed its solar array and its high gain antenna
to enable communication with other satellites.
30 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
By SAMMY ISREB
The recent NSW bushfire crisis
has been one of the worst such
events in Australia’s history. The
intense media coverage included
astounding NASA satellite photos
showing the enormity of the situation. Space it seemed, gave the
ultimate testimony of the ravages
of the fires. So how exactly does
the amazing technology behind
these images work and what benefits does it provide?
S
INCE ITS BEGINNINGS in 1958, NASA has
focused not just on space exploration but also on
the furthering of scientific knowl
edge regarding
planet Earth. With so much unknown about the factors effecting the climate on Earth, NASA embraced Earth System
Science, a field encompassing meteorology, oceanography,
biology and atmospheric sciences.
In the early 1990s, NASA commenced what is known
as the Earth Science Enterprise, a detailed study into the
Earth as an environmental system. The Earth Science
Enterprise is composed of three main components: a
series of satellites, an advanced data storage and processing system and various teams of scientists working
to analyse the data.
On the 18th of December 1999, the first of the Earth
Observing System (EOS) series of satellites was launched.
The Terra satellite, formally known as the EOS AM-1, was
built at a cost of over US$1.3 billion by Lockheed Martin
Missiles and Space. The 5190kg Terra circles the Earth at
an altitude of around 705 kilometres, with a polar orbit
of inclination of 98°.
This orbit is specifically designed to descend southwards over the equator at 10:30am (local time), at which
time cloud cover is usually at its daily low. Terra orbits
the Earth once every 99 minutes. During the 6-year initial
duration of Terra, its orbit will be periodically adjusted to
maintain its integrity (once per orbit).
Five state-of-the-art instruments make up the scientific
payload of Terra. These are used to generate an integrated
snapshot of the Earth which is far superior to anything
available from previous orbital remote sensing techniques.
Dr Grassem Asrarm, NASA’s Associate Earth Science
Director, commented that Terra “has nearly unlimited
potential to improve scientific understanding of global
climate change”.
www.siliconchip.com.au
This map shows the abundance of airborne particulates,
or aerosols, over Southern Africa during the period
August 14 - September 29, 2000. Low particle concentrations are shown in shades of blue, high concentrations in
shades of red. These results were generated from MISR
imagery acquired over this time period and processed
using MISR’s automated software system. The approach
for deriving aerosol amount makes use of the variation of
scene brightness and contrast as a function of observation
angle. Black areas over the land area correspond to places
where a result was not obtained; eg, due to the presence of
clouds. Extensive burning of grass and shrubland for land
management and agriculture comprises a principal source
of these aerosols. Vegetation availability increases northward, hence the greater abundance of haze and smoke in
Angola and southern Zaire. The lower aerosol abundance
around Lesotho and southeastern South Africa is consistent with the higher terrain elevations near the Drakensberg Mountains.
Let’s now have a look at the five different measurement
systems on Terra.
CERES – measuring radiation balance
The two “Clouds and the Earth’s Radiant Energy
System” (CERES) instruments aboard Terra provide the
most accurate global radiation measuring system ever,
allowing in-depth insight into the Earth’s radiation
balance. Everything, from plants, animals and even the
Earth as a whole, emits energy, some of which leaves
the Earth.
This provides a balance against the incoming energy
from the Sun, maintaining a consistent climate. Knowledge
of this radiation balance and the factors which affect it,
is essential for understanding and modelling the Earth’s
climate, both now and into the future.
The CERES units are essentially scanning radiometers
operating at three discrete channels. The first of these is
a short
wave channel for measuring reflected sunlight,
ranging from 300nm - 5µm in wavelength. The second,
longwave, channel, is designed to measure Earth-emitted
thermal radiation in the 8-12µm region. The third channel
provides a total radiation measurement between waveMarch 2002 31
SYDNEY
Smoking! – this MODIS image shows the December 2001-January 2002 bushfires to the north, south and west of Sydney.
lengths of 0.3 - 200µm.
Data from the CERES units is ideally suited to some of
the following applications:
• Determining the effects of solar radiation as an input
to global atmospheric models.
• Extended range weather predictions.
• Increasing our understanding of long-term climatic
change.
MISR – nine cameras, four wavelengths
With the majority of remote-sensing satellite instruments either aimed directly towards the Earth or towards
a fixed point in the atmosphere, much information
regarding the effects of energy scattering within the atmosphere has been overlooked. The Multi-Angle Image
Spectroradiometer (MISR) instrument was designed to
address this need through the use of nine cameras. One
is aimed straight down and there are fore and aft pairs
angled at 26.1°, 45.6°, 60.0° and 70.5° from the Earth’s
surface.
As Terra orbits, the Earth’s surface is progressively
mapped by each of the nine cameras in four wavelengths:
blue (446nm), green (558nm), red (672nm) and infrared
(866nm).
MISR is able to acquire a global picture around once
every nine days. Operating only during the day due to its
visible light requirements, the 149kg instrument draws
an average of 72W power and produces an output stream
32 Silicon Chip
averaging 3.3 megabits/second. Built by Jet Propulsion
Laboratories for NASA, the MISR has already provided a
good insight into monthly, seasonal and long term trends
of the following:
• The amount and composition of atmospheric aerosol
particles, both man-made and natural.
• The amount, type and heights of cloud cover around
the world.
• The composition of land surface cover, including vegetation density, health and structure.
MODIS – measures infrared
The Moderate-Resolution Imaging Spectroradiometer,
built by Raytheon (previously Hughes), Santa Barbara, is
designed to provide a broad range of observations of the
Earth’s atmosphere, land and oceans, in both the visible
and infrared regions, with the ability to construct a global
snapshot over a two-day period.
MODIS features a viewing width of 2330km over 36
separate spectral bands, ranging from 0.4 to 14.4µm
wavelength, with spatial resolution ranging from 250 10000 metres.
Operating 24 hours a day, MODIS collects data from
all spectral bands during daylight hours. In darkness,
scanning is solely done in the thermal infrared bands,
reducing the output data stream from 10.8Mbps (day) to
2.5Mbps (night). The 274kg MODIS draws an average of
162W of power. Typical applications of MODIS include:
www.siliconchip.com.au
•
•
Surface temperature monitoring of both land and sea.
Global detection of fires (including fires in underground
coal seams).
• Ocean colour, to aid detection of contaminants (sediment, photo-plankton, etc).
• Cloud characteristics.
MOPITT – measures pollution
The rather lengthily named “Measurement of Pollution
in the Troposphere” (MOPPIT) instrument is designed to
increase understanding of the Earth’s lower atmosphere
and its interaction with the land and seas. In order to
achieve this, MOPPIT focuses on the distribution, transport, sources and sinks of carbon monoxide and methane
in the Earth’s lower atmosphere.
MOPPIT consists of a scanning radiometer using gas
spectroscopy to measure reflected radiance in the three
absorption bands of carbon monoxide and methane. By
measuring the power levels of reflected spectra at 2.3µm
(methane) and 2.4 and 4.7µm (carbon monoxide), MOPPIT
will be able to determine the concentrations of these gases
within the troposphere.
The 184kg MOPPIT was supplied to the Terra team by
the Canadian Space Agency. To date, the unit has been
generating global maps of carbon monoxide and methane
distribution.
ASTER – for high resolution images
A joint venture between NASA and Japan’s Ministry of International Trade and Industry, the Advanced
Spaceborne Thermal Emission and Reflection Radio
meter (ASTER) has provided high resolution images of
the Earth during its operation. Operating three distinct
telescope systems, ASTER includes the following spectral
subsystems: visible near infrared (VNIR), shortwave-infrared (SWIR) and thermal infrared (TIR). Each of these
subsystems employs its own instrumentation and was
NASA’s Terra spacecraft is now providing daily views
of fires around the world. With the high resolution and
sensitivity of the Moderate-Resolution Imaging Spectroradiometer (MODIS) and the instrument’s regular global
coverage, Terra is providing an improved fire-detection
capability over previous space-based sensors. MODIS is
also capable of much higher-resolution imaging of fires, as
seen in this image of fires in northern Australia taken on
October 2, 2000.
www.siliconchip.com.au
This globe shows data collected from multiple sensors and
integrated into one image. Notice the three-dimensional
cloud measurements; these are collected by ASTER and
MISR aboard NASA’s Terra spacecraft, while MODIS
measures total cloud cover on a daily basis. The El Nino
temperature anomaly is visible as red in the Pacific Ocean
while the red dots on land show the locations of forest
fires. Terra’s ASTER, MISR, MODIS, and MOPITT instruments are all uniquely-designed to observe fires and help
measure the smoke and gases they release. Together with
CERES, Terra’s instruments help scientist’s understand the
Earth as a whole, integrated system.
constructed by a different corporation. The ASTER as a
whole provides spectral separation to its three units via
bandpass and dichroic filters.
The VNIR subsystem was constructed by NEC and consists of two telescopes, one pointing downwards and one
pointing behind (along the orbit path) to produce stereo
images with a very high (15 metres) resolution. These images can later be used to generate 3-dimensional perspectives
of the land being analysed. The wavelengths captured by
this instrument are especially useful in monitoring the
health of crops and vegetation.
The SWIR subsystem, produced by Mitsubishi Electric, operates in six shortwave infrared channels with
a 30-metre resolu
tion. Employing a pointing mirror,
the SWIR system can focus on nearby areas of interest,
allowing it to study the same area with each orbital
pass for several passes. The SWIR system is especially
useful for identifying the geological structure of the land
being studied.
The TIR subsystem, supplied by Fujitsu Ltd, scans five
thermal infrared channels with a resolution of 90 metres.
As with the SWIR system, a mirror setup is used to allow
areas of interest to receive higher coverage. Once again,
this apparatus is especially useful for geological sensing
of ground structure.
ASTER weighs in at 450kg and is the largest of the Terra’s
five instruments. Together, the three subsystems combine
to give the ASTER the following capabilities:
• Surface temperatures and emissivities.
March 2002 33
This computer-generated image shows the EOSAM1 Spacecraft, with the MISR instrument on
board, orbiting Earth. Direction of flight is toward
the lower left. The actual locations imaged by
the nine cameras, each with four colour bands,
along the Earth’s surface are illustrated here with
translucent surfaces.
•
Digital elevation (topological) maps from stereo images
containing geological information.
• Surface composition and vegetation maps.
• Mapping of polar ice movements and formations.
• Mapping of volcanic activity, both geological and
thermal.
Power and telemetry systems
Terra, like many satellites, is powered by an array
of solar cells. Together with a nickel-hydrogen battery
bank, the power system provides an average of 2530
watts of power to the craft. All data recorded by Terra
is transmitted back to Earth via the Ku-band (15.25 17.25GHz) at a rate of 150 Megabits/second. Command
and configuration information is uploaded to Terra via
the S-band (1.7 - 2.3GHz). For each Earth orbit, two
12-minute periods of radio contact are used for these
data transfers.
Terra global studies
As already mentioned, each of the instruments aboard
Terra produces separate data sets. It is the combining
of the results of several of these instruments by teams
of scientists from varied disciplines that is the exciting
part of this story. Currently, there are many studies being
undertaken using data generated from Terra, with the fire
34 Silicon Chip
fighting tools demonstrated during the NSW bushfires
being just one of these.
Volcanoes, fire and flood
Volcanoes and fires around the world not only pose a
huge threat to the safety of people and property but also
generate a large amount of atmospheric aerosols. Using
the MODIS instrument, Terra can scan globally and instantly produce alarms from fires or volcanic eruptions
from anywhere in the world. One of the EOS teams
currently produces constant lists of fires and lava flows
globally, which are quite useful for risk management and
evacuations.
Floods are also a major danger to communities around
the world. Based on data sourced from Terra, scientists
now have quite accurate models to help predict an
area’s susceptibility to flooding. When severe flooding occurs, researchers are able to measure the land
area affected, contributing basin area, peak discharge,
suspended sediment concentration and meteorological factors, so that the risk can be minimised in the
future.
Vegetation
Terra is able to provide valuable data on the health
and distribution of ground vegetation around the world.
www.siliconchip.com.au
With immense areas of forests being constantly turned
into farmland, the Earth’s climate is definitely affected.
Scientists are able to use data from the ASTER, MODIS
and MISR instruments in studying the impacts of climate
change of global vegetation, in addition to providing large
scale analysis of agricultural methods.
Researchers from The University of California, use the
MODIS to monitor the burning of forest land in the Amazon and Africa. These burning activities release carbon
dioxide, carbon monoxide and methane, along with other
aerosols into the atmosphere. The MODIS can be used to
measure the exact quantities and compositions of these
gases, as well as vegetation regrowth and change later on
down the track.
Cities have great impact on the local environment.
Dense city planning results in higher summer temperatures, increased health risks, energy consumption and
pollution levels. The instruments onboard Terra are able
to assist urban planners in minimising these effects. In
fact, since Terra’s launch, studies have shown that vegetation cover and surface albedo (reflectivity) of urban
areas have major affects on air temperatures and ozone
pollution levels.
This is an artist’s rendition of the MISR instrument in
cutaway view. The back ends of the nine MISR cameras
appear as yellow cylinders. In this orientation, MISR
would look down toward Earth.
General climatology studies
Over the last century there has been an immense
impact from human development on the Earth’s landscape. Despite carbon dioxide levels having increased
by almost one third since recording began, global temperatures have only increased by around 0.5°C over the
last century – rather less than predicted by traditional
climate models.
This has revealed limitations in the ways traditional models took in the effects of atmospheric aerosols,
changes in cloud cover and the Earth’s oceans in affecting
climate.
Aerosols are tiny particles suspended in the atmosphere. While some occur naturally, human activities
have increased atmospheric aerosols by around 10%.
Naturally occurring aerosols include material from
volcanoes, dust storms, forest fires, biological materials and sea spray. Common human aerosols include
materials from the burning of fossil fuels, factories and
motor vehicles.
While there is still much to be learnt, it is known that
aerosols have both direct and indirect effects on the Earth’s
climate. The direct effect is the cooling of the Earth by
re
flecting incident sunlight back into space, with the
magnitude of this dependent on the type and size of the
particles in question. It is known that aerosol cooling from
human-generated particles offsets some of the effects of
carbon dioxide produced global warming.
The indirect effect of these particles is to change the
properties of clouds, themselves formed by water droplets
adhering to aerosol particles. In regions of low particle
densities, clouds tend to be composed of large droplets,
with regions of high aerosol concentrations having clouds
composed of very small droplets. Large droplets do not
scatter light well and allow more light to pass through,
while clouds of small droplets (caused by lots of aerosols)
scatter light and restrict light passed towards the Earth.
Also, these brighter, more reflective clouds composed
of smaller droplets are less likely to generate rain than
www.siliconchip.com.au
This is the “business” end of the MISR instrument, which
includes the cameras and calibration equipment. The
photograph was taken in October 1996, as MISR was
being assembled. Subsequently, the parts that supply
power, communications and temperature control were
added. The entire package was then encased in a protective housing, which was covered with highly reflecting
thermal blankets.
larger droplet types.
Using the MISR instrument, scientists have been able
to improve their understanding of the concentrations of
aerosols in the atmosphere and their effects on cloud
formation, sunlight reflectivity, ground and ocean temperatures and rainfall.
With oceans comprising around 70% of the Earth’s
surface, this mass of water stores large amounts of heat
energy. While originally thought to be a large inert “heatsink”, later studies have revealed the ocean to be a major
March 2002 35
The Red Sea golf resort in Sharm El Sheik, Egypt,
where President Clinton met with Israeli Prime Minister Ehud Barak and Palestinian Authority President
Yasser Arafat, stands out against the desert landscape
in this image acquired by the Advanced Spaceborne
Thermal Emission and Reflection Radiometer (ASTER)
on August 25, 2000. This image of the southern tip of
the Sinai Peninsula shows an area about 30 x 40km in
the visible and near infrared wavelength region. The
vegetation appears in red while the blue areas in the
water at the top and bottom of the image are coral reefs.
The airport is visible just to the north of the golf resort.
ASTER is the only high resolution imaging sensor on
Terra and its primary goal is to obtain high-resolution
image data in 14 channels over the entire land surface,
as well as black and white stereo images. With a “revisit time” of between 4 and 16 days, ASTER will provide
the capability for repeat coverage of changing areas on
Earth’s surface.
The broad spectral coverage and high spectral resolution of ASTER will provide scientists in numerous disciplines with critical information for surface
mapping and monitoring temporal change. Example
applications are: monitoring glacial advances and
retreats, monitoring potentially active volcanoes,
identifying crop stress, determining cloud morphology
and physical properties, wetlands evaluation, thermal
pollution monitoring, coral reef degradation, surface
temperature mapping of soils and geology, and measuring surface heat balance.
contributor to climatic phenomenon. With heat escaping
the ocean and creating atmospheric temperature gradients in the surrounding air, winds are generated, creating
horizontal currents.
Water temperature measurements
With temperatures and salt levels affecting vertical cur
rents, complex water circulations around the world arise.
This results in warm surface waters moving poleward
where heat escapes more readily to outer space, while
cold, deep currents are established in the ocean depths.
Through this system of ocean circulation, the oceans and
atmosphere work together to distribute heat and regulate
climate. This circulation transports enormous amounts of
heat, resulting in more moderate climates on land areas
that are near the ocean.
Using Terra’s instruments, scientists have been able to
measure ocean surface temperatures to within 0.5°C. This
information, coupled with wind measurements made on
Earth, have been invaluable in understanding the effects
of the world’s oceans on global climate.
With better understanding of most of the variables which
affect climate, researchers have been improving a set of
tools for the prediction and assessment of the effects of
large scale seasonal climate fluctuations, including the El
Nino Southern Oscillation index.
The Future
An artist’s impression of Terra on its way to orbit, follow
ing its launch from Vandenberg Air Force Base, California,
on December 18, 1999.
36 Silicon Chip
Since its launch in December 1999, Terra has provided
invaluable data concerning the Earth’s natural processes.
If all future missions are as successful as Terra, a lot will
SC
be learnt about our wonderful planet.
www.siliconchip.com.au
BE ID
PR GIN EA
OJ NE L
EC R’
T! S
The Itsy-Bitsy
USB Lamp
Have you ever been in the delves of a computer and wished
you had some extra light? Here’s a great little USB-powered
lamp which you can build in next-to-no-time.
Words by Ross Tester
From an original design by Stan Swan
M
any readers will remember
a commercial product of a
few years ago, the “Itty Bitty
Book Light”. It was designed to clip
over the top of a book to give just a tiny
light on the page when, for example,
you were reading in bed and didn’t
wish to disturb your partner.
Times have changed. Now we’re all
working with computers. Many’s the
time I’ve been trying to look deep inside a computer and wished it was a bit
brighter so I could read type numbers,
see plug and socket orientations, check
board seating, and so on.
Sometimes, even a torch won’t work
because it’s too big to get really deep
down. You can't get that light where
you really need it.
Well, here’s the answer. We’ve
called it the Itsy Bitsy USB Lamp. It is
such a delightfully simple idea we’re
wondering why no-one ever thought
of it before.
www.siliconchip.com.au
It started life (and continues) as a
student project at Massey University
in Wellington, New Zealand – and in
fact was submitted to us by the lecturer, Stan Swan.
When we say simple, we mean it:
just a USB plug on a suitable length of
cable, a superbright white LED and a
series resistor to limit LED current. The
LED and resistor are housed in an inline fuseholder (without its innards!)
which makes a superb little “wand”
and also protects the electronics, such
as they are.
Here’s what the Itsy Bitsy USB Lamp looks like: one end has an ultrabright LED
wired to a cable attached to a USB plug. It is as simple to build as it looks!
March 2002 37
You’ll be surprised by the amount
of light you get from the LED, especially if you spend a little bit more
and buy one of the really superbright
(8000mCd) models (eg, DSE Z-3982).
A cheaper, though lower light output
(2000mCd) is the Z-3980. The difference in price is significant, though:
$8.95 vs $3.95.
Of course, you don’t have to use a
superbright white LED. In fact, you
don’t HAVE to use a white LED at all.
This circuit will operate quite happily
with any colour and any brightness
LED – but you will probably be very
disappointed with the light output of
most LEDs. For best results, we really
do recommend the superbright white
types. Yes, they’re more expensive but
you get what you pay for!
The USB Port
In all modern computers, you will
find at least one, usually two and
often four USB ports. USB stands
for Universal Serial Bus, and is one
of the latest incarnations of methods
to get information in and out of your
computer.
pick one up for just a few dollars. A
local computer shop has a 1m USB
extension cable for $6 but you could
well do better than this at computer
fairs, swap meets, etc.
Here’s a tip: get together with a mate
and buy a male-to-male USB cable.
Cut the cable in half and you can both
build an Itty Bitty USB Lamp for half
the cost!
Strip back about 5cm of the outer
insulation and shield from the “bare”
end of the USB cable.
Normal USB cables have four wires:
red, white, black and green (as well as
the shield). The green and white carry
the data – we don’t need them so they
can be trimmed right back (make sure
the wires inside their insulation are
not exposed at all).
A tiny length of heatshrink tubing
over the ends of the green and white
wires will ensure that there cannot
be shorts, either to themselves, to the
shield wire or to the red or black wires.
Carefully bare about 2mm of the
insulation on the red and black wires.
Before we go too much further, open
up the in-line 3AG fuse holder and
remove the wires and spring inside.
All we want are the two plastic bits.
Slide the longer of the two pieces over
the end of the wire, smallest end first.
(You may need to drill or ream out the
hole a little to accommodate the wire
but don’t go overboard! Similarly, this
An ECU (that’s technical talk for extra
close-up) of a USB plug. It’s a male
plug which fits into the female USB
socket on the computer.
(For more details on the USB port,
refer to the article in the November
1999 SILICON CHIP).
We’re not particularly interested in
information transfer as such. But we
are interested in the fact that the USB
port offers power to external devices +5V is available on pin 1 (0V on pin 4).
Up to 100mA is available from the
USB port – far more than we need
for this little application. That’s the
reason for the series resistor. A 47Ω
resistor will limit the current to about
25mA – just about ideal.
Construction
The first thing you will need is
a USB cable with at least one male
plug on it. These are becoming fairly
common and you should be able to
38 Silicon Chip
Here’s the business end of the lamp,
fully assembled. The LED just pokes
its head through the cable hole in the
fuseholder.
might be necessary on the other bit of
fuseholder to accommodate the LED
when we come to it shortly.)
The photograph shows this well.
Slide the fuseholder down far enough
so it is out of the way.
Cut the anode lead (the longer lead)
of the bright white LED to about 3mm
long. Similarly, cut both leads of a
47Ω 1/4W (or even 1/8W) resistor to
about 3mm long and carefully solder
one lead of the resistor to the anode
It’s not exactly rocket science. . . but
it’s often the simplest of ideas that are
the best.
of the LED. The 47Ω resistor will
have a colour code of yellow, purple,
black, gold (or yellow, purple, black,
gold, gold if it’s a 5-bander). It can be
soldered either way around.
Cut a length of spaghetti insulation
(or some tiny plastic tubing) long
enough to cover the resistor and its
leads, then slide this over the resistor
so the connection to the anode is completely insulated. Heatshrink tubing
may also be used for this purpose, but
is not essential.
Cut another two short lengths of
insulation (say 5mm) and slide them
over the red and black wires of the
USB cable. Solder the red wire to the
resistor end and the black wire to the
LED cathode. By the way, spaghetti
insulation is not pasta . . .
Now slide the 5mm lengths of insulation over the solder joints – it is
important that the bits cannot short
out to each other when scrunched up
Parts List – USB Lamp
1 USB male plug moulded
to suitable length 4-way
screened cable
1 Ultrabright White LED (preferably at least 2000mCd) (eg,
DSE Z-3980, 3981, 3982,
etc)
1 3AG in-line 2-part plastic
fuseholder (eg, DSE P-7912,
Jaycar SZ-2015, etc).
1 47Ω 1/4W or 1/8W resistor
Lengths of thin diameter
heatshrink (preferably) or
spaghetti insulation
www.siliconchip.com.au
inside their fuseholder “home”.
Strictly speaking, this assembly
should be fused in case of a short but
even it there is a short the USB port
will limit the current available. So
no fuse! (But it’s better not to have a
short anyway!).
Testing
Before going any further, check and
everything is OK, the white LED
should glow brightly. If not, check for
shorts or open circuits.
Final assembly
Slide the fuseholder back up the
USB cable, pushing everything inside
it until only the LED and abut 3mm of
its leads are emerging.
Slide the other end of the fuseholder
(the shorter end) onto the longer piece
so that the LED just pokes the top of
its head out the hole (flush with the
hole is fine).
Twist the fuseholder end onto its
body to lock it in place.
And that’s it. Now when you need
a bright light anywhere around your
computer – all you have to do is plug
it in to the USB port!
The labels
You might have noticed two labels
on the cable (hey, that rhymes!) in the
main photograph. They simply says
what it is and not to look directly into
the LED. We they were unnecessary
and therefore we haven’t shown them
SC
on the diagram above.
check again that everything is as it
should be. Most of all, make sure that
there is no possibility of any shorts
from one lead of the USB cable to
another – particularly the green and
white (data) wires. (Failure to do this
could damage your computer).
With your computer on, plug the
USB plug into the USB socket. If
www.siliconchip.com.au
The final assembly of the lamp: it’s a pretty tight fit inside the fuseholder but it
does all go in. Just be careful that any exposed leads are insulated with heatshrink or spaghetti before sliding it in.
March 2002 39
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
Do some sets really “self-destruct?”
A TV set, described as “self-destructing”,
presented itself this month and was a mystery in its own right. But it also posed another question – how long should one persist in
chasing a problem, long after there is any
hope of financial reward?
So what is this so-called “self-destructing” TV set? I had heard about
this phenomenon from several different sources but I had never actually
come across one until now.
As it turned out, the term “self-destructing” is a gross exaggeration and
is much too dramatic – “intermittent
failure of a number of power supply
components” is a much more accurate
description of the fault.
Anyway, this particular problem
applies mostly to the NEC FS-6831S
series employing PWC-3517 chassis.
These are generally very reliable TV
sets but several rental companies have
complained of a few sets arriving in
the workshop dead, with the power
supply “destroyed”, along with IC601
(STR41090) and up to about 10 surrounding components. All the parts
are replaced and the set works again
for another month or so before it fails
again – mostly on start-up with the
front panel power switch. Or, at least,
that’s the story.
Mr Spicer owned one of these sets
and it had been fixed several times,
by different technicians, until he
became fed up and gave it away to
another technician who happened to
be a colleague.
Well, he was determined to fix it
and, over the next six months or so,
changed just about every part in the
power supply. I obtained a scrapped
chassis for him so that he could
even replace the chopper and feedback transformers (T601 and T602)
without cost. Wherever possible, he
used genuine new NEC spares but
40 Silicon Chip
in the end he lost patience with its
repeated failures and offered it to me
for spare parts.
Though a few technicians have
complained about this particular
symptom, NEC Technical Support
were really unaware of the problem.
This chassis has been in production
for over 10 years and as previously
stated, has been very reliable.
Bath time
I decided I would give it a go and
treat it with great respect. Firstly, I
noticed it was a pretty grubby chassis
with lots of dust and grime on it, so I
decided to give it a bath! No kidding!
The secret to washing a chassis is being quick and allowing it a very long
time to dry. Note, however, that mains
transformers and the like should be
removed first as, invariably, they will
break down later if allowed to get
wet.
I squirted the chassis with a commercial household cleaner and brush
ed the particularly dirty areas before
using a high pressure fresh water spray
and then very hot water. Pure water is
in fact an insulator, not a conductor
Items Covered This Month
•
•
•
•
•
•
Akai CT-2868AT
NEC FS-6831S
Sharp CX-51E3
NEC Cromavision FS-6807S
Mitsubishi DNA CT 29AX1(A)
Philips 25GR6771 G111S chassis
– but how often does one encounter
pure water in real life?
I let it dry for a week, even though
it looked dry enough within 24 hours,
and it indeed looked very clean – like
new. Any remaining grubby spots were
then cleaned with more conventional
PC board cleaning aerosols.
Now that it was clean, I could see
that some of the electrolytic capacitors had been leaking and had badly corroded the sur
rounding board
areas, especially around C406, C411,
C501, C611 and C625. These were all
replaced after giving the area a very
thorough scrubbing and finally applying a fine spray of CRC 2-26.
I then soldered every faulty joint
I could find on the chassis, paying
special attention to areas around the
power diodes before replacing all the
blown components.
I noticed when checking the component values against the circuit
diagram that some were not quite the
same. I dug up my file on the set and
discovered that, over the life of this
chassis, two distinct power supplies
were made available – one for the
63cm set and one for the 68cm version.
This set used a 63cm picture tube and
I replaced seven components that a
previous technician had incorrectly
substituted from the 68cm version
(Q601, R417A, R602, R603, R606, R608
and R610).
I also applied some of the modifications that have been recommended
over the years, especially changing
C603 and C604 across the bridge
rectifier from 220pF to 4700pF. I also
fitted a new insulating wafer for IC601.
I didn’t attribute any significance
to a failure when using the front panel switch, as this controls the CPU
(IC1001) and the 19V/15V supply
transistors (Q652), both of which were
totally isolated from the power supply.
The remote control also operates the
CPU IC.
When all was ready, I reassembled the chassis and fitted it into the
www.siliconchip.com.au
Kits
without
compromise
cabinet. I gingerly switched on and
everything worked properly. I checked
the main power rails, noting that the
HT was slightly low at 113.7V at
TP91. However, the picture size and
blooming were steady with variations
of beam current and everything was
working properly.
It is now a month down the track
and the set is still switching on and
off OK and running fine.
If I am right, I would attribute the
problem to previous technicians not
replacing all the leaky capacitors and
failing to clean away the leaked electrolyte. In addition, a previous technician had used incorrect components in
this particular set and there were also
possible faulty solder joints.
Persistence doesn’t pay
As I hinted earlier, this story poses
the question as to why we sometimes
persist with a problem, long after it
has become commercially non-viable.
In this case, my colleague hung on to
the set for about six months and I lost
count of how much time I spent on
it. Granted, this was spare time (short
periods between other jobs, etc) which
www.siliconchip.com.au
would otherwise be wasted but how
does one justify it anyway?
The simple answer is “plain stubbornness”. But there is more to it than
that. The solution to the problem has
a real value and is not just a cause of
satisfaction.
Every solution becomes another
item in one’s stock-in-trade; something
to call upon the next time a similar
fault is encountered. Every time something is learned, it makes it just that
much easier to earn real money the
next time around.
Not so easy after all!
I imagined that Mr Klein’s Akai
CT-2868AT TV set was going to be
easy when he described the fault as
no colour – that is, until he told me
he had tried to get it fixed elsewhere
and they had given up on it. Usually,
most colour faults are fairly easy to
fix if one is familiar with the CCIR
B/G PAL D system. However, this is
gradually becoming more difficult as
digital techniques are being added.
Anyway, I still felt confident that I
could make short work of it. However,
when I switched it on and connected
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March 2002 41
Serviceman’s Log – continued
a colour bar generator to the AV input, I was amazed at the appearance
of the fault which, I have to confess,
is hard to describe. It was as though
the chrominance reference oscillator
hadn’t locked but instead of different
colours, the picture showed alternating bands of monochrome and colour.
And at the same time, there was a
large shading band (like a shadow)
moving slowly from left to right –
most bizarre!
I also found that the previous technician had changed the jungle section,
including chroma decoder IC302, an
AN5601K (the same as is used in Panasonic TV sets). He had also replaced
about 10 electrolytic capacitors on the
motherboard, mainly in the chroma
circuits.
This was a bit of a worry, as it told
me two things. One was that the previous technician was no slouch and
two, he had already done most of the
things I had planned to do. It didn’t
leave me much room to manoeuvre.
Voltage checks
I started by checking the voltage
rails and all the voltages on IC302.
They were all spot on, so I checked the
reference oscillator and that was also
spot on. I also checked all the work
done by the previous technician but
everything was totally correct. Yet, to
produce such a dramatic effect, something had to be off – really off.
I connected a monitor to the video
output socket and saw that the picture
was perfect up to there. Using the CRO,
I then followed the luminance and
chrominance signals through Q103
(for TV reception) to IC204 LA7016
42 Silicon Chip
(AV/TV switch), and then on through
the Teletext module CN501, pins 2 and
7 (note: the Teletext module can be
removed provided a link is inserted between these pins). From there, I went
to the luminance delay line where
the chrominance and luminance are
separated – the former goes to pin 5
of IC302, while the latter goes through
Q306 to pins 15 & 16.
I thought I could detect a slight
imperfection of the chroma input on
pin 5 and spent a long time investigating this, especially as it seemed to
come from the base of the luminance
transistor Q306. I tried replacing C312
but in the end I had no explanation
and assumed it was a red herring.
What I did find was distortion on pin
2 (reference oscillator) and on the
chrominance output to the delay line
(pin 7) and onwards to the CRT.
By now I had almost exhausted all
my ideas. The fault seemed to involve
two different areas: the alternate couple of lines going black (horizontal
frequency) and then the slow moving
shadow across the screen (vertical frequency). These could be due to some
distortion in the horizontal and vertical pulses but these all where correct
on the oscilloscope. The 12V and 5V
rails (pins 29 and 10 respectively) had
no ripple on them.
In the end, I decided I needed to
scope every pin of IC302 and see if
anything significant would show up.
Fortunately, I only reached pin 3,
which is the chrominance level control
from pin 37 of the microprocessor,
before finding a real clue – this pin
should have only a pure DC voltage
present but there were all sorts of other
signals present as well
A check with the multimeter
showed that a DC voltage was present but that it varied with the colour
control. It was now obvious that
de
coupling capacitor C317 (2.2µF)
was leaky and replacing it fixed
everything.
I left it on test for a week before
Mr Klein picked it up. However, just
as I was demonstrating it, I suddenly
noticed a minor new fault symptom
on the screen. It was giving an effect
like flagwaving at the very top. Even
though I noticed it, Mr Klein didn’t,
and it was just too late to do anything
about it – so out it went.
I am now waiting by the phone,
biting my nails, waiting for the recall!
Dead Sharp
Mr Tanundra’s Sharp CX-51E3
TV set (H Chassis) was dead and
I was immensely pleased that he
had brought it into the workshop
instead of trying to get me to fix it
in his house.
I don’t have a service manual for
this model but I do have one for the
CX51B2 which is a 14B chassis and
not all that different – or so I thought.
Although the set was reported as
“dead”, it wasn’t really totally dead –
just no sound or picture. For starters,
there was 115V on TP702 and to the
line output transistor Q602 which
was good. There was also voltage on
the collector of the horizontal driver
transistor (Q601) but it was a bit high
at about 60V.
The oscilloscope showed that the
line drive was present from pin 37 of
the jungle IC (801, TDA8362) all the
way to the horizontal output transformer (T602). However, its frequency
was far too high. Consequently, the
EHT was down to about 15kV. When
I turned up the screen control, there
was just a horizontal line, indicating
no vertical timebase either.
I checked the voltage to IC801 pin
10 and found it was low but it was the
horizontal and vertical oscillators I
was most concerned about. There was
only a small amount of signal on the
8MHz crystal (X802) on pin 35 and the
voltage on it was almost non-existent,
especially on pin 36.
I followed this back, expecting 9V
to appear via D633 and R672 but there
was none. I thought D623, an 8.2V
zener, might be faulty but it was fine.
The 9V rail was missing completely.
www.siliconchip.com.au
On the circuit I was using (14B), the
9V is delivered via Q604 and D733.
However, in the H chassis, there is
no Q604 but instead there is IC602, a
7809 3-terminal regulator. And there
was voltage going in to this device but
none coming out.
Fitting a new regulator fixed the
problem completely, though I am
surprised at how hot it ran. I have
soak tested the set for a week and Mr
Tanundra is happy.
A crook NEC
Mrs Richardson had arranged for
her husband to deliver their 1999 NEC
Cromavision FS-6807S TV set to the
workshop with the complaint that
there was no picture.
Because it is such a recent model,
I didn’t have a circuit for it and I told
him that I would have to order it. His
response was that he was under some
pressure to get it fixed as quickly as
possible although he didn’t say who
from.
Well, I duly put the order in straight
away but in the meantime, I thought
that I would take a quick squiz at it.
The fault turned out to be a black raster, no screen display and no sound.
The chassis was a Thai built PWC2477 which I removed to check for
faulty joints. Well, as luck would have
it, there were a couple of enormous
cracks in the solder around the connections to IC501 and IC502, both 9V
3-terminal regulators.
This is just the sort of break a technician needs, being so much easier
than the complex microprocessor and/
or signal problems I had been was envisaging. Indeed, it was exactly what
the doctor ordered and repairing the
cracks fixed the problem
Mrs Richardson was delighted to
have her set fixed so quickly.
A couple of house calls
It was a fairly quiet Thursday in
what had been a quiet week and so
when I received two requests for house
calls just outside my service area, I
reluctantly agreed – mostly because
they were close to each other.
The first was Mrs Mason’s 1996
(1994) Mitsubishi DIVA TV set, CT
29AX1(A) (A1 chassis), which she
complained had a “green picture”.
This sounded relatively easy to fix
and was probably a faulty joint on the
CRT socket.
However, when I arrived, I found
the 68cm set to be in a tight, dark
entertainment centre connected to all
sorts of accessories. What’s more, the
fault was actually a small dark green
raster and there was no sound. To
cap it all off, there were two totally
undisciplined, yapping dogs running
around the room, determined to trip
me. It was going to be one of those
days!
I stupidly thought there might be
something simple I could do and, anyway, I had to look as though I had done
something – even though I suspected
that this was going to be an expensive
workshop job.
I hadn’t worked on one of these sets
before and it was one with all the bells
and whistles, including a wretched
motorised swivel base to turn the set
with the remote control. I couldn’t
help feeling that the user would only
ever be likely to use this control once
but now it was giving me a real headache. After I had managed to pull the
set out far enough to unplug a bunch
of AV leads, turn the set around and
undo umpteen screws, in the dark, I
was beginning to lose it. Trouble was
the back was jammed at the bottom by
the swivel base and the whole set was
precariously balancing on the edge of
the pull-out swivel platform of the
entertainment centre.
Finally, when I lifted it off, I was
presented with a large flat chassis with
no access under the PC board. Also,
I couldn’t work out how to remove
it from the case. The plastic frame
looked as though it had some sort of
catch system on either side near the
tube but nothing I could do would free
the front control panels which were
wedged under the tube. So I tried to
regain some self-composure by doing
some meter measurements from on top
of the chassis.
I was trying to identify the main
HT rail from the component side of a
complex set I had never seen before.
And in any case, I had absolutely no
idea of the voltage to expect on this
rail, even if I did identify it. I looked
for large high voltage rating electros
and any diodes nearby which might
indicate a chopper transformer but
even when I thought I could identify
it, there was absolutely no access.
Similarly with the horizontal output
transistor, which I nearly blew up.
Mrs Mason had been watching my
activities closely and every so often
had been making useful comments
– such as, “there’s not much in them
these days” and also “I would have
thought it would have lasted a lot
longer considering how much it cost”
(about $2000 four years ago).
I kept thinking, “why didn’t you buy
a sewing machine instead” but bit my
lip and stuck to bland mutterings along
the lines of “isn’t the weather good?”
and “the cricket is fantastic”.
In the end, I gave an Oscar-winning
performance of measuring the resist-
MINI SUPER
DRILL KIT IN
HANDY CARRY
CASE. SUPPLIED
WITH DRILLBITS
AND GRINDING
ACCESSORIES
$61.60 GST INC.
www.siliconchip.com.au
March 2002 43
Serviceman’s Log – continued
ance of one piece of screening metal to
another to convince Mrs Mason that I
knew something, before pronouncing
that the power supply was faulty and
that the set definitely had to go to the
workshop – where it should have gone
an hour beforehand!
She wanted a cast iron quote and
an ETA for the return of the set. I was
past caring at this point and plucked
a figure of $300 and three weeks out
of the air. Darkly she said “just wait a
minute while I phone my husband”.
Surprisingly, five minutes later,
she reappeared, smiled, and said that
would be OK. Oh well, “them’s the
breaks”, I suppose.
The next drama I had was getting
it downstairs and past the dogs and
into the car – without letting the dogs
out. The car was now full and I still
had the other TV set to fix. I prayed I
could do something with this in the
home, because I couldn’t take two
back to the shop.
This set was a 1990 Philips 25GR
6771, G111S chassis, that was dead.
It had had a line across the screen
before it died.
I arrived to find the set was situat44 Silicon Chip
ed on the second floor of Mr Paton’s
home which had a small rickety spiral
staircase. I knew that this set wasn’t
going to leave the house that day and
started the conversation with “...and
how old is this set?” “Eleven years
old, eh? Well, you have had a good run
out of it . . . but it is probably past its
‘use-by’ date. Have you thought about
getting a new one?”
In the event, the “power” problem
turned out to be a faulty on/off switch
which I didn’t have with me, so I
shorted one side of the switch and told
them to use the remote control or the
wall socket switch to turn it on and
off. The white line across the screen
was due to a faulty joint around the
pins of the vertical deflection socket,
which connects to the vertical deflection yoke. I pointed out that this was
a temporary repair that would do until
they bought a new set. Mr Paton was
quite happy about this and I drove off
back to the workshop.
Back at the ranch
I ordered a service manual for the
Mitsubishi before examining it more
carefully in more congenial surround-
ings. The reason the chassis wouldn’t
come out was because of two screws
in the front panel holding it in. I
removed it completely and used an
air compressor to blow the dust out.
I then removed the PC boards from
the plastic frame to get a good look
at them.
When I removed the power deflection board, I could see that the whole
thing had faulty joints everywhere.
I spent several hours resoldering
everything on all boards before reassembling them.
Eventually, I managed to get it all
back together and switched the set
back on. Amazingly, it all worked
perfectly, so I set about retuning the
stations and setting up the various
menus. And the picture was truly
excellent.
I found and checked the main power rail at test point TP91A. It checked
out at 130V, so I replaced the back
and put the set aside to soak test for
a week.
In the meantime, a few days later,
I received a call from Mr Paton that
I didn’t really need. He said that the
set was dead again and it was making
a burning smell just like when I was
there. What smell? There had been
no burning smell, save possibly the
soldering iron. Reluctantly, I said I
would call back but that I couldn’t
until I could deliver the other TV set,
as they were both in the same district.
A few days later, I manoeuvred the
Mitsubishi past the Mason’s dogs and
back into the entertainment centre.
Apart from retuning the VCR, DVD
and Foxtel, it was plain sailing. And
Mrs Mason was happy that it cost less
than I had quoted.
Mr Paton’s set, on the other hand, I
had to treat very carefully in case I had
a fire on my hands. Gingerly, I removed
the back and put it into a position
where I could see what was going on
when I reconnected the power. However, it was all an anticlimax; the set
came on perfectly without any bother.
I checked for bad connections and
any sign of smouldering but just
couldn’t fault it. I put it back together
again and it still switched on and
off perfectly via the wall switch!
Mr Paton’s credibility had suddenly
taken a huge dive – so much for it
being dead and burning! If it breaks
down again, he can (1) buy a new set
(2), take it elsewhere, or (3) bring it
SC
into the workshop himself.
www.siliconchip.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
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Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
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SILICON
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CHIP
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Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
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Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
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CHIP
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prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
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CHIP
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Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
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CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
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has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
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03-01
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions from
readers are welcome and will be paid for at standard rates.
Pump controller for
solar hot water system
This circuit optimises the operation of a solar hot water system.
When the water in the solar collector
is hotter than the storage tank, the
pump runs.
The circuit comprises two LM335Z
temperature sensors, a comparator
and Mosfet. Sensor 1 connects to the
solar collector panel while Sensor 2
connects to the hot water panel. Each
sensor includes a trimpot to allow
adjustment of the output level. In
practice, VR1 and VR2 are adjusted so
that both Sensor 1 and Sensor 2 have
the same output voltage when they are
at the same temperature.
The Sensor outputs are monitored
using comparator IC1. When Sensor 1
produces a higher voltage than Sensor
2, which means that sensor 1 is at a
higher temperature, pin 1 of IC1 goes
high and drives the gate of Mosfet Q1.
This in turn drives the pump motor.
IC1 includes hysteresis so that the
output does not oscillate when both
Battery equality
monitor
Almost all 24V power systems in trucks, 4WDs, RVs,
boats, etc, employ two series-connected 12V lead-acid
batteries. The charging system can only maintain the
sum of the individual battery
voltages. If one battery is
failing, this circuit will light
a LED. Hence impending
battery problems can be
forecast. The circuit works
by detecting a voltage difference between the two series
connected 12V batteries. Idle current
is low enough to allow the unit to be
54 Silicon Chip
permanently left across the batteries.
G. La Rooy, Christchurch,
New Zealand. ($30)
sensors are producing a similar voltage. Hysteresis comprises the 1MΩ
feedback resistor between output pin
1 and non-inverting input pin 3 and
the input 1kΩ resistor. This provides
a nominal 12mV hysteresis so that
voltage at Sensor 1 or Sensor 2 must
differ by 12mV for changes in the
comparator output to occur. Since
the outputs of Sensor 1 and Sensor 2
change by about 10mV/°C, we could
say that there is a degree of hysteresis
in the comparator.
Note that IC1 is a dual comparator
with the second unit unused. Its inputs are tied to ground and pin 2 of
IC1 respectively. This sets the pin 7
output high. Since the output is an
open collector, it will be at a high
impedance.
Mosfet Q1 is rated at 60A and 60V
and is suitable for driving inductive
loads due to its avalanche suppression
capability. This clamps any inductively induced voltages exceeding the
voltage rating of the Mosfet.
The sensors are adjusted initially
with both measuring the same temperature. This can be done at room
temperature; adjust the trimpots so
that the voltage between ground and
the positive terminal reads the same
for both sensors. If you wish, the sen
sors can be set to 10mV/°C change with
the output referred to the Kelvin scale
www.siliconchip.com.au
which is 273K at 0°C. So at 25°C, the
sensor output should be set to (273 +
25 = 298) x 10mV or 2.98V.
Note that the sensors will produce
incorrect outputs if their leads are
exposed to moisture and they should
be protected with some neutral cure
silicone sealant. The sensors can be
mounted by clamping them directly
to the outside surface of the solar collector and on an uninsulated section
of the storage tank. The thermostat
housing is usually a good position on
the storage tank.
John Clarke,
SILICON CHIP.
Component &
voltage tester
audio and mains) and resistance loads
(only visual checks via the LED).
The pulses produced can sound too
loud for some delicate circuits such
as dynamic microphones and headphones, but the pulse is so short that
it is virtually impossible to do any
damage; the average current flow is
only a few milliamps.
The circuit needs no power switch
as the oscillator only operates when
the negative side of the battery is
connected through the load being
tested. The LED flashes at each pulse
as a visual indication that the load is
lower than about 1000Ω. The circuit
works from a 3V battery pack. To use
a 9V battery change the 15Ω resistor
to 47Ω, the 1.8Ω resistor to 5.6Ω and
the .033µF capacitor to .01µF.
LED2, diode D1, zener diode ZD1
and the series 220Ω resistor form a
voltage indicator which is used to
detect and indicate any voltage greater
than about 10V. LED2 only illuminates if the voltage rises above the
threshold set by ZD1 and D1, which
is more than the battery voltage (3V
or 9V). These components can be
omitted if the device is not going to
be used for working on cars. However,
it’s quite handy having a device that
can check power wires, shorts to
chassis and speakers in a car.
Philip Chugg,
Launceston, Tas. ($30)
This simple circuit tests speakers,
microphones, transformers and voltage. It’s basically a very low frequency
oscillator that produces extremely
short ‘fruity’ pulses. The type of sound
produced is very easy to hear and to
determine the precise direction it is
coming from, thus making it ideal
for checking the phasing in multiple
speaker installations. It is also very
useful for car stereo installations as
well as public address systems where
it can drive dozens of speakers directly
on a 100V or 70V line system.
The signal is also easy to hear on a
public address system so that you can
drive around a large installation with
the window down and easily hear each
speaker as you drive past. It is easy to
check that a speaker is in phase with
its neighbours, by listening for the
artificial centre created between two
identical sound sources.
Q1 and Q2 oscillate when connected
to loads between zero and about 1000Ω.
The frequency increases as the resistance of the load increases – 8Ω loads
produce about 8Hz output while 100Ω
loads will produce about 100Hz output,
although it is only approximate.
The unit is also useful for checking
dynamic microphones (not condenser
types), headphones, transformers (both
www.siliconchip.com.au
March 2002 55
Ideal for use with Dolby 5.1-channel digital
decoders, this 6-channel volume control will
allow you to adjust the volume of all
channels simultaneously. It also includes
infrared remote control so that you can
adjust the volume from your armchair.
Pt.1: By JOHN CLARKE
O
K, SO YOU’VE JUST bought
yourself a fancy new DVD
player with inbuilt Dolby
5.1-channel decoding. A matching
multi-channel amplifier would also
be nice but what if your budget won’t
stretch that far?
For many people, the answer is quite
simple – use existing hifi stereo amplifiers that they either already own or
can scrounge for next to nothing. Most
of us have progressively upgraded our
hifi systems over the years and typically have old – but still working – stereo
56 Silicon Chip
amplifiers stashed in a cupboard or in
the garage.
For example, you can use your
main hifi stereo amplifier for the two
front (left and right) channels, plus a
second stereo amplifier for the two
rear channels. A third stereo amplifier is then used to amplify the centre
and subwoofer outputs from the DVD
player – see Fig.1.
By the way, you don’t need integrated stereo amplifiers with preamplifier and tone control stages in this
application. If you have one or more
stereo power amplifiers, they will do
the job just fine.
Adjusting the volume
Using existing stereo amplifiers
might be economical but there is one
big disadvantage – you have to adjust
three separate volume controls (more
if an amplifier has separate volume
controls for each channel). And that’s
fiddly.
Wouldn’t it be nice if you could
adjust the volume of all six channels
simultaneously using just one control?
That’s just what this project does and
as a bonus, it throws in infrared (IR)
remote control as well. A low-cost
commercial IR remote provides the
necessary control signals.
Basically, the SILICON CHIP 6-Channel Remote Volume Control accepts
all six channels from the DVD player
and provides outputs that can be uniformally varied in level with excellent
tracking accuracy. These outputs are
then fed into the stereo amplifiers,
which have their volume controls set
to fixed positions.
www.siliconchip.com.au
As shown in the photos, the unit is
housed in a 1U-high rack-size metal
case. It’s easy to drive, with just a few
controls on the front panel: an on/
off switch plus three pushbuttons for
volume up, volume down and mute.
A LED bargraph display lets you check
the current volume setting.
Another feature of the unit is its excellent performance, so that it doesn’t
degrade the high-quality sound from
your DVD player. It has extremely
low noise and distortion and also
provides accurate tracking between
each channel.
This means that the sound balance
between the various chan
n els is
maintained regardless of the volume
setting. In addition, there is virtually
no coupling between channels so that
the signal in one channel is not heard
in another.
Specifications
The accompanying specifications
panel lists the performance of the
unit. In particular, the volume can be
adjusted over a 76dB range, with 1dB
steps from 0dB (maximum volume)
through to -48dB. After that, the volume is adjusted in 2dB steps down to
the -76dB attenuation level. The volume can also be Muted at any volume
setting to provide an attenuation of at
least -96dB.
As stated earlier, the volume can be
adjusted using either the front-panel
pushbutton switches or by the matching buttons on an IR remote control.
These controls allow adjustment from
full volume to minimum volume in
about seven seconds. Alternatively,
you can use the Channel Up/Down
buttons on the remote control for even
Fig.1: this diagram shows how the 6-Channel Remote Volume Control fits into
a surround sound system. It accepts the Dolby decoded outputs from a DVD
player and in turn drives three stereo amplifiers.
faster volume changes.
The LED bargraph display consists
of 20 LEDs, each representing a 4dB
volume step. “In-between” settings
are indicated by lighting two adjacent
LEDs, which means that the display is
actually capable of 2dB resolution – ie,
it can indicate 38 different volume
settings from 0dB to -76dB.
Note that the LED bargraph does
not indicate the 1dB volume steps
that are available down to the -48dB
attenuation level. These smaller 1dB
changes are provided to give a fine
volume adjustment, so that the exact
level can be selected for this important
range of the volume control. Below
the -48dB level, the volume is quite
“soft” and so the 2dB level steps are
more than adequate.
Muting is indicated by flashing the
current volume level LED (or LEDs) on
the display. It is released by pressing
the Mute switch again or by pressing
the Up Volume switch. However, the
muting remains on if the Down Volume switch is pressed.
This allows the volume to be reduced to a more comfortable level
while the muting is still in effect.
SPECIFICATIONS
Total Harmonic Distortion (THD) ������������ 0.002% at 1kHz and 1V RMS (see graph)
Frequency Response ����������������������������� -0.1dB at 20Hz and 20kHz
Signal-to-Noise Ratio �������������������������������110dB with respect to 1V RMS with 20Hz to 20kHz filter (112dB A weighted)
Separation Between Channels ��������������� 80dB at 20kHz, 94dB at 1kHz and 96dB at 100Hz worst case with 1kΩ
loading resistor on measured channel and 1V RMS input on other channel
Attenuation Steps ����������������������������������� 1db from 1-48dB attenuation, 2dB from 48-76dB attenuation
Volume Tracking ������������������������������������� Typically better than ±0.7dB to -60dB, ±1.5dB >60dB attenuation
Mute Attenuation ������������������������������������ 96dB minimum
Signal Handling �������������������������������������� 4V RMS
Display Resolution ���������������������������������� 2dB steps
www.siliconchip.com.au
March 2002 57
Parts List For 6-Channel Remote Volume Control
1 1U rack case (Altronics H-5035
or equiv.)
1 Universal remote control with
Mute, Channel and Volume
Up/Down buttons (Altronics
A-1007, Jaycar AR-1703, DSE
G-1223, etc)
1 2 x 12V 15-30VA mains
transformer (Altronics M-4912
or equiv.) (T1)
1 SPST mains power switch (S4)
1 M205 mains panel-mount
safety fuseholder (F1)
1 0.5A slow blow M205 fuse
1 7.5A mains lead with moulded
plug including earth pin
1 mains cord grip grommet
2 M3 crimp lug eyelets
2 insulated spade connectors
(female)
1 .001µF 250VAC X2 MKT
polyester capacitor
1 10A 3-way mains terminal block
(chassis mount)
1 piece of Elephantide insulation,
35 x 35mm
1 30mm length of 10mm-dia.
heatshrink tubing
4 stick-on rubber feet
10 100mm long cable ties
4 8-way 0.1-inch pin header plugs
1 270mm length of 8-way rainbow
cable
4 M3 tapped x 12mm spacers
4 M3 tapped x 10mm spacers
2 6mm untapped spacers
17 M3 x 6mm screws
3 M3 x 12mm screws
1 M3 x 10mm screw
5 M3 nuts
2 M3 star washers
6 6g x 10mm self tapping screws
for RCA sockets
1 PC stake
6 PC-mount RCA sockets
(Altronics P 0210)
1 600mm length of 0.7mm tinned
copper wire
AUDIO ATTENUATOR BOARD
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F84 microcontroller
programmed with
REMVOL.HEX code (IC1)
1 PC board, code 01103021, 121
x 85mm
2 8-way 0.1-inch pin headers
Another feature of the unit is that it
remembers the current volume level
when the power is switched off. It then
automatically reverts to this volume
level when power is next applied. The
muting is always initially off when the
unit is switched on, even if the unit
58 Silicon Chip
Semiconductors
2 LM1973N 3-channel audio
attenuator (IC4,IC7)
4 TL072 dual JFET op amps
(SGS Thomson or Motorola
brands) (IC2,IC3,IC5,IC6)
Capacitors
2 1000µF 16VW PC electrolytic
6 10µF bipolar (non-polarised)
electrolytic
4 1µF 25VW PC electrolytic
6 1µF bipolar electrolytic or MKT
polyester
4 0.1µF MKT polyester
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
6 10kΩ
6 150Ω
2 2.2kΩ
1 1.2kΩ
DISPLAY BOARD
1 PC board, code 01103022, 231
x 56mm
1 8-way 0.1-inch pin header
1 TO-220 heatsink, 19 x 19 x
10mm
3 SPDT momentary subminiature
pushbutton switches (S1-S3)
(Altronics S 1498)
3 7.5mm diameter caps for
switches
1 M3 x 6mm screw
1 M3 nut
1 18-pin DIL IC socket
1 4MHz crystal (X1)
1 250mm length of 0.7mm tinned
copper wire
was muted at switch-off.
Commercial transmitter
As mentioned earlier, this unit can
be operated using a commercial IR
remote control, which can also be used
to control other equipment (eg, a TV,
1 infrared remote control
demodulator IC (IRD1)
1 7805 5V 3-terminal regulator
(REG1)
6 BC328 PNP transistors
(Q1-Q6)
6 1N4148, 1N914 diodes
(D6-D11)
4 5-segment green LED bargraph
displays (Altronics Z 0972)
(LEDs1-20)
1 3mm green LED (LED22)
Capacitors
1 1000µF 16VW PC electrolytic
3 10µF 25VW PC electrolytic
1 0.1µF MKT polyester
2 18pF ceramic
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 100kΩ
1 470Ω
2 10kΩ
1 220Ω
4 1kΩ
5 120Ω
4 680Ω
1 100Ω 5W
POWER SUPPLY BOARD
1 PC board, code 01103023,
71 x 45mm
1 8-way 0.1-inch pin header
4 PC stakes
1 25mm length of 0.7mm tinned
copper wire
Semiconductors
1 7812 regulator (REG1)
1 7912 regulator (REG2)
1 7806 regulator (REG3)
1 7906 regulator (REG4)
5 1N4004 diodes (D1-D5)
Capacitors
2 1000µF 25VW PC electrolytic
2 470µF 16VW PC electrolytic
4 10µF 25VW PC electrolytic
Resistors
2 39Ω 0.25W 1%
1 33Ω 5W
VCR or satellite receiver). In fact, quite
a few IR remote transmitters will work
with the 6-Channel Remote Volume
Control and some of these are in the
parts list.
At one end of the scale, you can use
a TV-only remote control unit with just
www.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: the block diagram
for the 6-Channel IR
Remote Volume Control.
A microcontroller (IC1)
decodes the signals from
the switches and the IR
receiver and provides
a control signal for the
audio attenuators (IC4
& IC7). It also drives the
LED bargraph display.
Volume Up/Down, Channel Up/Down,
Mute and Operate controls. Alternatively, you can use a more elaborate
unit which can also used to operate
some of your other equipment.
The main proviso with the IR remote control is that it is able to output
Philips RC5 codes. There are three
possible RC5 code sets that you can
use, so if you already have a Philips
TV set and/or VCR, you can select an
unused code to avoid controlling both
devices at once.
In that case, you will need to purchase a preprogrammed IR remote control that can be set to control satellite
receivers (as well as TVs and VCRs).
OK, enough of the preamble. Let’s
find out how it works.
fed to an audio attenuator block. This
then attenuates all six channels, according to the control signals applied
via a 3-wire interface from the Infrared
Decoder/Controller block (IC1).
IC1 is actually a microcontroller. Its
job is to decode signal inputs from the
Down, Up & Mute switches and from
Block diagram
Take a look now at Fig.2 which is
the block diagram of the 6-Channel
Remote Volume Control. It’s really
quite simple in concept, with just a
few main circuit blocks (you didn’t
really want anything too complicated
and expensive, did you?).
Here’s how it works. First, the six
audio signals from the DVD player are
www.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.3: total harmonic distortion (THD) vs. frequency. As can be seen, the performance is excellent, with THD less than .02% up to around 10kHz.
March 2002 59
Fig.4: the audio attenuator section is based on two LM1973 3-channel attenuator
ICs. The attenuation level is adjusted according to a 3-wire digital control signal
on pins 9-11 and op amps IC2b, IC3a & IC3b buffer the attenuated outputs.
the infrared receiver (IRD1) which
picks up signals from the remote control. It then generates the 3-wire control signals (Data, Clock & Load) which
are applied to the Audio Attenuator.
In addition, the microcontroller also
drives the 20-LED bargraph display.
Finally, the signals from the Audio
Attenuator are buffered by op amps
IC2, IC3, IC5 & IC6 and fed to the output sockets. These outputs in turn are
fed to the audio amplifiers.
Circuit details
Figs.4-6 show the complete circuit
details of the 6-Channel Remote Volume Control. We’ll look at each of
60 Silicon Chip
these sections in turn.
Fig.4 is the audio attenuator section.
For the sake of clarity, only channels
4-6 are shown – channels 1-3 are
identical except for the IC numbering
which is shown in brackets.
IC4 (and IC7) are “3-Channel 76dB
Audio Attenuators with Mute” (from
National Semiconductor). Each channel includes a resistive array with
various tappings to select the requisite
amount of signal attenuation. The
input impedance is a nominal 40kΩ,
while the output impedance varies
from 25kΩ to 35kΩ, depending on the
attenuation level.
As indicated previously, the atten-
uation level is adjusted using a 3-wire
serial digital control signal.
The audio signals from the DVD
player are fed to IC4 via 1µF bipolar
capacitors. These serve two purposes: they roll off the low-frequency
response below 4Hz (in company
with the input impedance); and they
prevents any DC current flow in the
resistors that make up the attenuators.
The outputs from the attenuators
appear at pins 6, 20 & 16 (OUT1, OUT2
& OUT3) and are fed to JFET op amp
stages IC2b, IC3a & IC3b. These op
amps are wired as unity-gain buffer
stages and have several functions: (1)
they provide low-impedance output
signals which are suitable for driving
power amplifier stages; (2) their high
input impedance prevents loading of
www.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.5: the control display section is
based on microcontroller IC1. This
processes the inputs from the switches and IR receiver and provides the
3-wire control signal for the attenuator
ICs. It also drives the LED displays.
the attenuators, thus maintaining the
accuracy of the volume setting; and (3)
the negligible bias currents flowing in
the op amp inputs prevent unwanted
clicks in the audio signals as the
output impedance of the attenuators
changes with volume
Note that the output of each op
amp buffer is isolated from its output terminal using a 150Ω resistor,
to prevent instabili
ty. In addition,
the outputs are AC-coupled via 10µF
bipolar capacitors to prevent any DC
offsets from being fed through to the
power amplifiers. The 10kΩ resistors
tying the op amp outputs to ground
are included to ensure that the outputs
discharge to ground when power is
removed from the circuit. This prevents switch on clicks when power
is reapplied.
Note that IC2 and IC5 are actually
TL072 dual op amps even though we
are using only one op amp in each
package. They are specified because
the dual-package versions produce
a lower switch-on click than TL071
single op amps. For the same reason,
it is necessary to use either Motorola or SGS Thomson (ST) TL072s in
preference to those from other manufacturers, as these produce the lowest
output transients at switch on.
Each op amp package is powered
from ±12V supply rails. These rails
are decoupled at each op amp’s supply
pins using a 1µF capacitor, while two
1000µF 16VW capacitors provide overall decoupling of the supply. These
relatively large capacitors ensure that
the op amp supply rails decay away
at a slow rate when power is removed
from the circuit, to prevent switch-off
thump.
The two audio attenuator ICs (IC4 &
IC7) are powered from ±6V rails which
are decoupled using 0.1µF capacitors.
Their Clock, Load and Data inputs
are at pins 9, 10 & 11 and these are
controlled by microcontroller IC1 (see
Fig.5) to set the attenuation values.
Note that each of the three channels
in each IC is individually addressable
and could theoretically be loaded with
any attenuation value.
www.siliconchip.com.au
March 2002 61
REG3
7806
+17V
FUSE F1
0.5A SLOW
POWER
S4
T1
M 4912
30VA
A
12V
IN
D1-4: 1N4004
D1
D4
D5
1N4004
IN
12V
D2
D3
1000F
25VW
+6V
470F
16VW
REG1
7812
.001F
250VAC
OR 275VAC
N
OUT
GND
39
OUT
GND
+12V
10F
25VW
10F
25VW
0V
1000F
25VW
E
10F
25VW
330
5W
(CASE)
IN
GND
OUT
39
REG2
7912
REG1, REG3
GND
IN
OUT
REG2, REG4
GND
IN
10F
25VW
OUT
-12V
470F
16VW
IN
GND
OUT
-6V
REG4
7906
SC
2002
6-CHANNEL REMOTE VOLUME CONTROL
Fig.6: the power supply circuit uses four 3-terminal regulators to deliver ±6V
and ±12V rails for the audio circuitry. The +17V rail feeds a 5V 3-terminal
regulator in the display section.
In this case, however, both IC4 and
IC7 have these three control lines
connected in parallel. As a result, the
attenuation value set for channel 6 is
also set in channel 3. Similarly, channels 5 and 2 have the same attenuation
value, as do channels 4 and 1. In addition, the software programmed into
the microcontroller sets all channels
to the same value.
Control & display circuit
This circuit section is based mainly
on a PIC16F84 microcontroller (IC1)
– see Fig.5. It primary function is
to decode the signals from switches
S1-S3 and from the infrared receiver
(IRD1) and provide the 3-wire control
signals to IC4 (and IC7).
It also drives the 20-LED bargraph
display in multiplex fashion. This
enables the LEDs to be driven via five
common lines at the RB0-RB4 outputs
of IC1.
The RB5-RB7 outputs and transistors Q1-Q5 select which bank of five
LEDs will be driven at any one time.
For example, when RB7 is low, Q5
turns on and the anodes of LEDs 16-20
are all high. As a result, any low lines
at RB0-RB4 drive the corresponding
LEDs in this group via series 120Ω
62 Silicon Chip
resistors (eg, if RB0 goes low, LED16
will light).
When RB7 subsequently goes high,
RB6 goes low and selects LEDs 11-15
via Q4. RB6 then goes high and RB5
goes low to select LEDs 6-10 via Q3.
When ever one of the RB5-RB7 lines
is low, transistor Q1’s base is pulled
low via a 10kΩ resistor and an OR gate
made up of diodes D6-D8. This turns
Q1 on which means that Q2 is off (as
are LEDs1-5).
However, when RB5-RB7 all go
high, Q1 turns off and Q2 turns on
(due to its 680Ω base resistor) and
pulls the anodes of LEDs1-5 high.
These LEDs can now be driven by
the RB0-RB4 outputs of IC1, as before. So this simple gating technique
allows us to drive four banks of LEDs
using only three outputs (RB5-RB7)
from IC1.
When ever one of the RB5-RB7 lines
is low, the RA0 input is monitored
to check whether a switch has been
pressed. A closed switch causes the
normally high RA0 input to be pulled
low via either D9, D10 or D11 when
an RB5-RB7 line goes low.
For example, if S1 (Volume Down)
is pressed, RA0 is pulled low via D11
when RB5 goes low. Similarly, if S2
POWER SUPPLY
(Volume Up) is pressed, RA0 is pulled
low via D10 and RB6. And if S3 (Mute)
is pressed, RA0 is pulled low via D9
when RB7 goes low.
By this means, the software in IC1
detects which switch has been pressed
and generates the appropriate control
signals at the RA2-RA4 outputs which
are then fed to IC4 & IC7
Note that the 3-wire control outputs
are fed to IC4 & IC7 via 1kΩ resistors.
These slow down the control signal
rise times so that they don’t cause
noise in the audio signal. Note also
that RA4 of IC1 is an open drain output and requires a pullup resistor.
This output is high at power up and
this ensures that the attenuators are
initially set to minimum volume, after
which the software quickly takes over
and sets the volume to the required
level.
IR control
The infrared receiver circuitry
is simplicity itself and is based on
infrared receiver module IRD1. This
3-lead device amplifies, filters and demodulates the coded signals picked up
from the IR transmitter and feeds the
demodulated signal to the RA1 input
of IC1. It also drives Q6 which flashes
the Acknowledge LED (LED21) each
time pin 1 of IRD1 goes low.
As a result, the Acknowledge LED
www.siliconchip.com.au
flashes (to indicate that infrared signals are being picked up) each time
you press a button on the transmitter.
IC1 decodes the signals applied to
its RA1 input and, provided the coding
is correct, changes its outputs accordingly. The default code is for the TV1
address but this can easily be changed
so that you can use either the SATellite
1 (SAT1) or SATellite 2 (SAT2) code
(eg, if you are already using TV1 to
control your TV set).
A 4MHz crystal connected between
pins 15 & 16 provides the timing for
IC1. The two 18pF capacitors ensure
that the crystal is correctly loaded, so
that it starts reliably.
Power for the microcontroller is
supplied via 5V regulator REG5. This
is isolated from the incoming +17V
supply using a 100Ω 5W resistor and
decoupled at its input and output using 10µF electrolytic capacitors.
In case you’re wondering, the 100Ω
resistor causes the 5V supply to rise
relatively slowly at power up, to ensure a “soft” start. It also dissipates
power which would otherwise have
to be dissipated by REG5 (which, in
turn, would require a bigger heatsink).
In addition, a 1000µF capacitor is
used to decouple the +5V supply line
at IRD1. This prevents any switching
noise on the +5V supply from being
amplified within the infrared receiver.
The 220Ω resistor connected across
the 5V supply ensures that the voltage
falls to zero at switch off. This is neces-
Fig.7: install the parts on the audio attenuator (signal) board as shown here, taking
care to ensure that the ICs and electrolytic capacitors are correctly oriented. The
bipolar capacitors can go in either way around.
sary to ensure that IC1 resets correctly
when power is reapplied.
Power supply circuit
Fig.6 shows the power supply circuit. It uses a 24V centre- tapped mains
transformer, the output of which is rectified using diodes D1-D4 and filtered
by two 1000µF capacitors to produce
nominal ±17V rails. These rails are
then fed to regulators REG1-REG4 to
derive ±12V and ±6V supply rails.
Note that REG1 and REG3 are isolated from the +17V supply using diode
D5. This ensures that the regulated
positive supply rails fall at the same
rate as the negative rails when power
is switched off.
In addition, the outputs of REG3
& REG4 are decoupled using 470µF
capacitors rather than 10µF capacitors, as used at the outputs of REG1 & REG2.
This ensures that the
±6V supply rails fall
slower than the ±12V
supply rails at switch
off. And that in turn
ensures that the inputs
to the op amps are
tied to ground via
the attenuator output
resistances while ever
power is applied to the
op amps.
The +17V rail pro-
Left: this is the completed
audio attenuator board. Note
the orientation of the two pin
header sockets.
www.siliconchip.com.au
March 2002 63
Left: another view of the completed audio attenuator board. Make sure that the RCA sockets are
seated correctly before soldering their leads.
Fig.8 (below): be sure to place
the 3-terminal regulators (REG1REG4) correctly when building
the Power Supply Board.
vides power to the display circuit and
this load is balanced by including a
33Ω load resistor across the -17V
supply. This is done to produce similar decay times for the ±17V rails at
switch off.
REG1
39
10F
D2
1000F
D4
330 5W
Note that the +12V and -12V outputs
from REG1 & REG2 are decoupled with
39Ω resistors before being applied to
the signal circuitry. These resistors
slow down the risetime for the op amp
supply rails at power up.
470F
10F
10F
470F
REG4
0V
32030110
0V
12V
1000F
D1
REG2
D3
12V
REG3
39
D5
+12V
q12V
+6V
q6V
+17V
GND
GND
GND
10F
This is the completed
Power Supply Board. Mount
the 5W resistor slightly proud of
the board to aid cooling.
FROM POWER TRANSFORMER
6-CHANNEL VOLUME POWER
Basically, the power supply has
been designed to deliver its various
supply rails without causing excessive voltage excursions in the op amp
outputs during power up and power
down. As a result, switch-on thumps
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
No.
1
8
2
1
4
4
1
1
6
5
2
64 Silicon Chip
Value
100kΩ
10kΩ
2.2kΩ
1.2kΩ
1kΩ
680Ω
470Ω
220Ω
150Ω
120Ω
39Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black yellow brown
brown black orange brown
red red red brown
brown red red brown
brown black red brown
blue grey brown brown
yellow violet brown brown
red red brown brown
brown green brown brown
brown red brown brown
orange white black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black orange brown
brown black black red brown
red red black brown brown
brown red black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
blue grey black black brown
yellow violet black black brown
red red black black brown
brown green black black brown
brown red black black brown
orange white black gold brown
www.siliconchip.com.au
and switch-off instability problems
are avoided.
Power on/off switching is provided
by mains switch S4, with a 0.5A fuse
protecting the transformer primary.
The .001µF ca
p acitor across S4’s
contacts prevents arcing at switch off,
again to avoid sudden transient voltage
excursions at the op amp outputs.
Construction
The unit is easy to build, with separate PC boards for each of the circuits
shown in Figs.2-4. These boards are as
follows: (1) an audio attenuator board
coded 01103021; (2) a display board
coded 01103022; and (3) a power supply board coded 01103023.
Figs.7-9 show the assembly details
for the PC boards. As shown in the
photo, the PC boards are interconnected using 8-way flat cables that plug
into pin headers.
Signal board assembly
Begin the assembly by building the
audio attenuator board – see Fig.7.
Install the wire links first, then the
resistors, ICs and capacitors. Make
sure that the ICs and the electrolytic
capacitors are all oriented correctly.
The bipolar (BP) capacitors are
non-polarised and can be installed
either way around. Table 1 shows the
resistor colour codes but we suggest
that you also check each value using
a digital multimeter as some of the
colours can be difficult to decipher.
The audio attenuator board can now
be completed by installing the two
8-way pin headers and the RCA sockets. Note that it will be necessary to
cut off the plastic locating clips at the
base of each RCA socket pair before
installing it. You can do this using a
pair of sidecutters.
Push the RCA sockets all the way
down onto the board and make sure
they are properly seated before soldering their leads.
Display board assembly
Fig.9 shows the parts layout on
the Control & Display board. Again,
Table 2: Capacitor Codes
Value
IEC Code EIA Code
1µF 105 1u
0.1µF 104 100n
0.001µF 102 1n
18pF 18 18p
www.siliconchip.com.au
begin by installing the wire links,
then install the resistors, diodes and
capacitors. Note that the 100Ω 5W resistor should be mounted about 3mm
proud of the PC board, to allow the air
to circulate underneath it for cooling.
The six transistors (all BC338 or
BC337) can go in next, followed by
the 4MHz crystal (X1). That done,
you can install the three pushbutton
switches (S1-S3).
Next, install an 18-pin DIL socket
for IC1 but don’t install IC1 (the PIC
microcontroller) at this stage. That
step comes later.
The 7805 regulator (REG5) can go
in now. This device is mounted horizontally which means that you have
to bend its leads down by 90° before
mounting it on the PC board.
This is best done by slipping an
M3 screw through the device tab,
positioning it on the board and then
gripping one of the leads with a pair of
needle-nose pliers just before it reach
es its mounting hole. The device can
then be lifted clear of the board and the
lead bent down at right angles, after
which the procedure can be repeated
for the two remaining leads.
REG5 can now be fitted to a small
mini-U heatsink and the assembly
bolted to the PC board using a 6mm
M3 screw, nut and star washer. Don’t
forget to solder its leads after bolting
it down.
The 5-segment LED bargraph displays have a plastic moulding that
has a raised section at one end and a
recessed section at the other. This
allows them to be locked together
to form one continuous bargraph.
Before mounting the displays,
first orient each segment so that
the anode leads (the longer of the
two for each LED) are towards the
right. This done, bend the leads
down at right angles about 5mm from
the plastic body, so that the front faces
of the LEDs will sit about 4mm from
the edge of the PC board.
Now mount the LED segments so
that they sit about 2.5mm proud of
the board surface. A 2.5mm-thick
“standoff” (made from a strips of
cardboard, for example) will make this
job easy – just sandwich the standoff
between the LED segment and the PC
board, solder the two outer leads, then
remove the standoff and solder the
remaining leads.
LED21 is mounted similarly by
bending its leads at right angles and
Fig.9: the parts layout for the control
and display section. Refer to the text
when installing the LED displays.
March 2002 65
This view shows the assembled Control and Display Board, ready
for installation in the case. The four 5-way LED bargraph segments
lock together to form a continuous display.
installing it so that it lines up with the bargraph LEDs.
Similarly, the infrared receiver (IRD1) is mounted by first
bending its leads down at right angles close to its body,
and then down at right angles again before soldering it
to the PC board. The front of this device should be about
1mm out from the front edge of the PC board when it is
installed.
The Display Board can now be completed by installing
IC1 in its socket. Make sure that it is correctly oriented.
Power supply board
The LED bargraph segments must each be mounted about
2.5mm proud of the PC board and this can easily be done
using some folded cardboard to act as a spacer.
This board is assembled as shown in Fig.8. The main
thing to watch out for here is that you use the correct
3-terminal regulator at each location and that the regulators
are correctly oriented – their metal tabs all go towards the
1000µF electrolytic capacitors.
Note too that diode D5 faces in the opposite direction
to diodes D1-D4. The 33Ω 5W resistor should be mounted
about 3mm proud of the PC board to aid cooling.
That’s all for now. We’ll complete the construction and
SC
give the test procedure in next month’s issue.
The completed modules are installed in a 1U rack chassis and
interconnected using two cables
fitted with pin headers (details
next month).
66 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
eLabtronics launches icon-based micro assembly language at WCIT2002
Traditionally, microcontrollers
have been programmed using a complex, error-prone assembly language.
However, a South Australian based
microcontroller company plans to
change this with its “bitset” icon-based
assembly language.
eLabtronics will officially launch
bitset worldwide at the World Congress on IT (WCIT2002) to be held in
Adelaide from 25 February to 1 March.
eLabtronics Technical Manager Miro
slav Kostecki will present bitset at the
WCIT2002 Business Forum.
The program itself consists of
10 icons which can be used in any
combination to form the total microcontroller instruction set. It makes
microcontroller programming simpler,
faster and less prone to error, without
compromising the controller’s speed
or the program efficiency.
bitset is set to be used at all levels
of education, giving students the opportunity to
learn the basics of microcontroller programming
at a much earlier age. In
fact, bitset is so simple to
use that an eight-year-old
child was able to use it to
program his own burglar
alarm.
bitset will narrow the
“great digital divide” by
providing greater accessibility to microcontroller
programming.
eLabtronics CEO Peng
Choo said: “The bitset
program has huge implications for
Australia and will help establish its
reputation as a major ICT innovator”.
The company’s display at WCIT
2002 will feature a robotic arm which
has been entirely programmed by stu-
dents using the bitset program.
Contact:
eLabtronics
12-20 Gilles St, Adelaide, SA 5000
Ph: 08 8231 5966
Website: www.labtron.com.au
True RMS Clamp-On Hi-Tester
Nilsen Technologies
has introduced a true
RMS clamp-on meter, the Hioki 3280-20
Clamp-on HiTester. Its
compact design makes
it possible to securely
clamp in even complicated circuitry due
to its core thickness of
only 9.5mm.
There is a need for
accurate yet simple
measurement of distorted currents, including harmonic components, as well
as a need to measure the unbalanced
currents that flow through neutral wires
in single-phase three-line circuits. The
thin 3280-20 allows the technician to
easily clamp complicated circuitry,
which other instruments cannot do,
and it can accurately measure true RMS
for even distorted currents.
It also provides portability, safety
and ease of use, including a drop-proof
construction.
Contact:
Nilsen Technologies Pty Ltd,
43 Sheehan Rd, Heidelberg West,
Vic 3081
Freecall 1-800-623-350
Freefax 1-800-067-263
STEPDOWN
TRANSFORMERS
60VA to 3KVA encased toroids
Tandy have one too . . .
Elsewhere in this issue is a D-I-Y
RIAA preamp project, intended to fit
into existing turntables.
Not to be outdone, Tandy Electronics have just put on “special” (until
10th March) a turntable with a built-in
preamp (presumably RIAA).
The whole deal – “Optimus” turntable AND preamp – is selling for $99.00
(save $30). It is available through any
Tandy Electronics store. (Call 1300 728
SC
075 for locations).
www.siliconchip.com.au
Harbuch Electronics Pty Ltd
9/40 Leighton Pl. HORNSBY 2077
Ph (02) 9476-5854 Fx (02) 9476-3231
March 2002 67
R ecording
I ndustry
A ssociation of
A merica
PREAMPLI
FOR TURNT
Did you want to build the Ultra-LD Amplifier described recently in SILICON CHIP? Are you put off because it does not
have a preamplifier for a magnetic cartridge? Then don’t be
because this self-contained preamplifier has been designed to
install under your turntable and give better performance than
the RIAA preamp in most stereo amplifiers and receivers.
By LEO SIMPSON & ROSS TESTER
S
eemingly, no sooner than the
print was dry on the December
2001 issue which featured the
second article on the Ultra-LD Amplifier, than we had several requests
for a magnetic cartridge preamp to
go with it.
What to do? This had not been part
of the game plan: there is really not
enough space inside the amplifier for a
preamplifier. We were also concerned
about being able to obtain a sufficiently
good signal-to noise-`ratio, if it was
somehow packed into the rear compartment of the amplifier.
Of course, one neat solution would
be to build the LP Doctor featured in
the January & February 2001 issues of
SILICON CHIP. This not only features a
good preamp but it also electronically
68 Silicon Chip
removes the clicks and pops on vinyl
records. Kits are still available from
Dick Smith Electronics.
However, as good and effective as
the LP Doctor is, many people want
just a simple preamp – and that is what
we are presenting here.
It comes on a single PC board together with its own power supply, including an encapsulated 20VA toroidal
power transformer. It is intended to
be mounted inside a standard turntable plinth, either on the underside of
the turntable chassis or the Masonite
(hardboard) cover underneath the
plinth.
The beauty of having the preamp
directly underneath the turntable is
that the input signal leads are kept to
an absolute minimum and that should
mean minimum hum and noise. On
the other hand, care has to be taken to
ensure that any hum and noise from
the turntable motor and mains wiring
is minimised.
Circuit description
Fig.1 shows the circuit. It uses
a LM833 dual low-noise op amp,
with one op amp being used in each
channel.
The circuit is practically identical to the preamp stage used in the
above-mentioned LP Doctor except
that it has higher supply rails and
higher overall gain.
The higher gain is necessary to raise
the nominal 5mV to 10mV signal of
a magnetic phono cartridge to the
nominal input sensitivity of 500mV rewww.siliconchip.com.au
The RIAA Preamplifier and ±15V
power supply can be built as one
board, as shown here, or divided
in two for a separate power supply
and preamplifer. The reasons for the
“split” are explained in the text.
IFIER
TABLES
quired for full power from the Ultra-LD
power amplifier or, indeed, from the
“aux” input of most amplifiers.
At the same time, the preamplifier
needs higher supply rails in order to
provide good overload capability for
high level signals from the magnetic
cartridge.
For those who have not seen the
previous articles on this preamplifier,
we will now describe how the circuit
works. Both channels are identical so
we will just refer to the left channel.
Accordingly, the left channel phono
cartridge signal is fed from the input
socket via inductor L1, a 150Ω resistor
and a 47µF bipolar capacitor to the
non-inverting input of IC1a, which is
one half of an LM833 dual low-noise
op amp.
The inductor L1, 150Ω series resistor and the shunt 100pF form a lowpass filter to remove RF interference
signals which might be picked up by
the phono leads.
There is also a 270pF capacitor
connected directly across the input
terminals and this, added to the 100pF
filter network capacitor, provides a
capacitive load across each channel
of the cartridge.
This is done because most magnetic
phone cartridges operate best with
about 200-400pF of shunt capacitance.
Normally, most of the capacitance
www.siliconchip.com.au
will be present in the pickup leads
from the turntable to the preamplifier
input but since this preamplifier is
intended to be built into the turntable
itself the long connecting leads will
not be present.
In fact, if you know the cartridge
manufacturer’s recommended shunt
capacitance you can connect the
appropriate capacitor on the board
instead of the 270pF we have shown
on the circuit. Just subtract 100pF from
the recommended capacitance and use
that instead of the 270pF capacitors.
While we’re still at the input circuit,
the 47µF bipolar capacitor looks to be
far larger than it needs to be in terms of
bass signal coupling from the cartridge
and so it is. In fact, as far as bass signal
coupling is concerned, the capacitor
only needs to be about 0.47µF.
The reason we have specified such
a large input capacitor is so that the
op amp “sees” the very low source
impedance of the cartridge, especially
at low frequencies, and this helps to
minimise any low frequency noise generated by the input loading resistors.
RIAA equalisation
Due to the way in which vinyl discs
are recorded and the characteristics of
Underneath the
old Apan beltdrive turntable
which had sat, unused and unloved,
under the house
since CDs came
into vogue. The
mains terminal
strip can clearly
be seen centre of
pic; the output
cables and wires
from the cartridge
terminate on a tagstrip hidden under
the metal shield
immed-iately to
the right.
March 2002 69
LEFT
INPUT
L1
(L2)
270pF
150
100k
100k
LEFT CHANNEL ONLY SHOWN FOR CLARITY
RIGHT CHANNEL IS IDENTICAL
(IC PIN NOS IN BRACKETS ARE RIGHT CHANNEL)
L1, L2: LINK THROUGH 4330-030-3218 BEAD
SC
2002
+15V
47F
BP
RIAA PREAMP
3
(5)
8
1
(7)
LM833
100pF
2
(6)
LEFT
OUTPUT
IC1a
(IC1b)
0.33F
4
100
1M
-15V
390
F
BP
16k
200k
.0047F
.015F
8
4
1
Fig 1: one channel of the RIAA preamp. Gain is set at 56, making it ideal for use
with most amplifier “aux” inputs.
typical magnetic cartridges, the input
signal to the preamplifier will be very
strong at the treble end and becomes
progressively less as the frequency
drops. To compensate for this, all
magnetic cartridge preamplifiers need
to substantially boost the bass and cut
the treble (ie, equalisation) according
to the well-known RIAA characteristic
curve.
In our circuit, the RIAA equalisation is provided by the RC feedback
components between pins 1 & 2 of
IC1a (and between pins 6 & 7 of IC1b,
the right channel). In fact, there are
three capacitors and three resistors
which vary the feedback to provide the
correct equalisation. For example, the
.0047µF and .015µF capacitors provide
the required treble rolloff, in conjunction with the 16kΩ and 200kΩ resistors
which help determine the gain.
This feedback network provides the
standard equalisation time constants
of 3180µs (50Hz), 318µs (500Hz) and
75µs (2122Hz). The circuit also includes the IEC recommendation for
rolloff below 20Hz. This is provided
by the 390Ω resistor in series with the
33µF capacitor and the 0.33µF output
coupling capacitor.
The overall gain of the circuit is
set by the 390Ω resistor in series with
the 33µF capacitor. This is a compromise between overall gain (set at 56
at 1kHz) and input overload margin.
The latter is important because while
the nominal signal level from a typical
magnetic cartridge may only be about
5mV or 10mV, the level can rise to
well over 70mV (or much higher for
high- output cartridges).
The frequency response is shown in
the graph of Fig.3. Signal-to-noise ratio
is about as good as you can get with
a typical magnetic cartridge, around
-83dB with respect to an input signal
of 10mV at 1kHz. The actual signal-to70 Silicon Chip
noise ratio you achieve depends more
on your turntable, its rumble performance, shielding from hum fields
and so on.
Power supply
To make the circuit self-contained,
we have included the power supply.
It employs a potted 10VA toroidal
transformer with two 15V secondary
windings feeding a bridge rectifier, two
470µF capacitors and two 3-terminal
regulators to produce balanced supply
rails of ±15V.
Both the power supply and the stereo preamplifier have been combined
onto one PC board measuring 210 x
65mm and coded 01103021. This has
can be used in one piece or split, to
separate the power supply and the
preamplifier. This has been done to
ensure maximum flexibility. While we
intended it to be installed underneath
a standard turntable, this may not be
practical in some cases where space is
ALTRONICS
M4330
120V
A
POWER
15V
very limited. In that case, you would
need to house the whole PC board in
its own earthed metal case.
If you do install the preamplifier
underneath your turntable, you will
need to take great care in order to get
hum-free performance. Generally, that
means installing the power supply
section of the board as far away as
possible from the tone arm and its
“arc” across the turntable platter. Typically, this means installing it near the
motor or in the opposite corner to the
tonearm pivot.
The preamplifier section of the
board should then been installed
as close as possible to the tonearm
shielded cable terminations, typically
near the back of the turntable base. Use
very short shielded input leads to the
preamp and then terminate the turntable’s existing shielded output leads
to the preamp-lifier outputs.
Construction
Before starting construction, you
will need to make that decision about
whether to use the PC board intact, or
to split it. While you can saw the board
apart after assembly (we did!), it is
easier to do before it is populated. And
before you do anything, inspect the
board for any manufacturing defects.
We’ll assume you are going to use it
intact but if you aren’t, the sequence
of construction is much the same.
Because the heavier components are
mounted at the power supply end,
we’ll start with the preamp.
Start with the resistors – and as you
D1 - D4
4 x 1N4004
F1
1A
240VAC
IN
0V
120V
15V
0V
N
REG1
7815
0V
T1
20VA
0V
IN
OUT
+15V
GND
470F
25V
100F
16V
0V
E
EARTH LINK
(SEE TEXT)
A
E
N
TURNTABLE
7815
IN
GND
GND
IN
GND
IN
OUT
-15V
REG2
7915
7915
OUT
100F
16V
470F
25V
OUT
SC
2002
RIAA PREAMP POWER SUPPLY
Fig.2: there’s nothing particularly unusual about the ±15V power supply . . .
except perhaps that “earth link” which is explained in the text.
www.siliconchip.com.au
Here’s what the intact board looks like, fully assembled (except for the PC stakes not yet fitted to the preamp inputs and
outputs.) The board can be divided where indicated by the dotted line and joined together by 3 wires (+15V, 0V and -15V).
Note that there are some minor changes to component values since this photo was taken: the overlay is the latest version.
solder them in and crop their leads,
use some of those leads for the four
links on the board. The accompanying
table shows the colour code for the
resistors – some are perhaps unusual, being 1% values (the 200kΩ and
16kΩ, for example). If in any doubt,
use a digital multimeter to check them
before soldering them in.
Resistor pigtails can also be used
for the “inductors”, which are simply
one pass of wire through the ferrite
beads.
Now move on to the non-electrolytic
capacitors, which of course are not
polarised (note our earlier comments
regarding the 270pF input shunt capacitor).
Most of the electrolytic capacitors
in the preamp (all bar one, in fact)
are “bipolar” types which once again
means you won’t be caught out with
polarity problems. The one exception
is the 10µF right across the supply rails
which must be installed as shown on
the overlay diagram.
There are eight PC stakes to solder
in at the inputs and outputs. Originally we had planned to use RCA
sockets to make the board as flexible
as possible but in the end settled for
plain old stakes. Of course, there is
nothing to stop you soldering suitable RCA sockets to the stakes, if you
wish.
The final component at this end of
the board is the LM833 op amp which
must mount the way indicated. Solder
the pins carefully – it’s very easy to
get a solder bridge between IC pins.
At best, the preamp won’t work. At
worst, this could destroy the op amp.
Power supply
Just about everything in the power
supply is polarised. Start with the
four rectifier diodes – they mount in
pairs with the two in each pair facing the same direction but the other
pair mount in the opposite direction.
The direction
AUDIO PRECISION SCTHD-HZ AMPL(dBr) vs FREQ(Hz)
11 FEB 102 08:40:04
of these diodes
20.000
determines
which track
15.000
becomes the
10.000
positive rail
and which be5.0000
comes the negative rail.
0.0
Next, solder in the four
-5.000
elec-trolytics
-10.00
with the orientation shown.
-15.00
The larger (input) capacitors
-20.00
face in oppo20
100
1k
10k
20k
site directions;
Fig.3: the preamp equalisation matches the RIAA specificathe two smalltion very closely.
www.siliconchip.com.au
er (output) capacitors face the same
direction.
The two voltage regulators are
different – one is a positive regulator
(7815) while the other is a negative
regulator (7915). Don’t mix them up!
These are mounted flat on the board
with the ends of their leads bent down
90° to pass through their respective
PC board holes. To get the bend in
the right position, loosely mount the
regulators to the PC board with M3
screws and grip the legs with fine
(needle nose) pliers where the bends
should go. Still holding the legs in the
pliers, remove the screw and bend the
leads down 90°.
The regulators are photographed
and drawn with small U-shaped
heatsinks fitted. In fact, on the board
there is room for much larger heatsinks. Due to the minimal current
drain of this circuit, heatsinks are
not really necessary – but we have
in mind another task for this power
supply and preamp later on which will
need heatsinks. So we’ve fitted them.
No insulation is necessary between
regulator and heatsink.
What is that task? That would be
telling!
(Incidentally, if you need a general
purpose ±15V supply for other projects, this part of the board is perfect.
Is that a clue?)
You will note that there is an earth
link shown on the circuit and provision made for it on the PC board. In
the vast majority of cases, the turntable
itself will be earthed to the amplifier
(in turn, earthing the preamp via the
input leads), so this link will not be
necessary. In fact, it may increase hum
levels due to the earth loop formed.
March 2002 71
Parts List – RIAA Preamp
1 PC board, 215 x 67mm, code 01303021
1 4-way, PC-mounting mains terminal block, (Altronics P2103 or similar)
2 U-shaped heatsinks
8 PC stakes (14 if separated boards)
2 Ferrite beads, Philips 4330-030-3218 or similar
2 25mm lengths 0.25mm enamelled copper wire
1 240V to 30VCT PC-mounting transformer, Altronics M4330 or similar
1 SPST mains rated switch to suit – neon indicator optional
1 M203 or 3AG safety fuseholder, with 1A fuse.
4 (or 7 for split boards) mounting screws – type to suit use (see text)
Optional: 1 metal case, minimum 75 x 75 x 25mm inside (see text)
Semiconductors
4 IN4004 or similar 1A rectifier diodes (D1-D4)
1 7815 15V 1A positive regulator (REG1)
1 7915 15V 1A negative regulator (REG2)
1 LM833N twin low-noise op amp (IC1)
Capacitors
2 470µF, 25VW PC electrolytics
2 100µF, 16VW PC electrolytics
2 47µF, 16VW PC bipolar electrolytics
2 33µF, 16VW PC bipolar electrolytics
1 10µF, 35VW PC electrolytic
2 0.33µF MKT polyester
1 0.1µF MKT polyester
2 .015µF MKT polyester
2 .0047µF MKT polyester
2 470pF MKT polyester
2 100pF MKT polyester
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
2 1MΩ
2 200kΩ 4 100kΩ
Hum and noise minimisation
2 16kΩ 2 390Ω
We used two resistor pigtails soldered “end on” into the link holes. To
prove whether we needed the link, it
was simply a matter of shorting them
together. Hum levels increased significantly, so we left them open circuit.
They won’t do any harm sitting there
like that. If your hum level drops when
you check the preamp out later, you
need the link soldered.
The final two “components” to be
mounted are the mains input terminal
block and the transformer. First the
mains terminal block: it is a special
noise) into the preamplifier. Second,
it is designed to be mounted directly
onto the PC board.
The only problem with this transformer is that the pins for input and
output appear identical so you could
solder it in back to front. Again, if you
get this wrong, the result will be briefly
spectacular (and expensive). Read the
label on the transformer and check it
twice before soldering it in!
The transformer in fact has two primaries and two secondaries, each of
which the PC board connects in series.
The two 120V primaries therefore become a 240V primary; the junction of
the two 15V secondaries is connected
to 0V.
While the four pins will hold the
transformer in place, a self-tapping
screw should be used from under the
board to hold it secure, relieving the
strain on the soldered joints.
Check your component placement,
polarity (particularly that transformer!) and soldering before moving on
to the next phase of the project.
2 150Ω
2 100Ω
type designed for mains use with
barriers between each screw terminal.
Don’t substitute a block without this
insulation. One strand of wire astray
and bang . . .
It’s also important which wire of the
three in the mains lead goes to which
terminal, but we’ll cover this shortly.
The power transformer
The transformer for this project was
specially chosen for two reasons. First,
it is a toroidal type which should mean
minimum radiation (and therefore
We’re going to put the cart before the
horse, so to speak, and briefly mention
the physical layout before looking at
the wiring.
Earlier, we talked about the physical location of the preamp and power
supply. To reiterate, you need to get
the power supply (transformer, especially) as far away from the pickup as
possible (including the complete arc
of the tone arm).
Initially, we left the PC board in
one piece and mounted it so that the
transformer was very close to the motor. While performance was good we
thought it could be better.
So we separated the two parts of
the board and mounted the preamp
right up close to where the wires
emerge from the tone arm. And that
dramatically improved the signal-to-
Resistor Colour Codes
No. Value
2 1MΩ
2 200kΩ
4 100kΩ
2 16kΩ
2 390Ω
2 150Ω
2 100Ω
72 Silicon Chip
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black green brown
red black yellow brown
brown black yellow brown
brown blue orange brown
orange white brown brown
brown green brown brown
brown black brown brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black yellow brown
red black black orange brown
brown black black orange brown
brown blue black red brown
orange white black black brown
brown green black black brown
brown black black black brown
Capacitor Codes
Value IEC code EIA code
0.33uF
330n
334
0.1uF
100n
104
.015uF
15n
153
.0047uF
4n7
472
470pF
470
471
100pF
100
101
www.siliconchip.com.au
IN RIGHT
www.siliconchip.com.au
L NI
100pF
1
100k
.0047
16k
150
100k
390
0.1
16k
.0047
200k
L OUT
.015
0.33
10F
12030110
100
2002 )C(
100
L
R OUT
R
1M
0.33
E
E
100pF
100k
200k
.015
33F
BP
47F
IC1
LM833
47F
100k
150
L2
L1
270pF 270pF
390
33F
BP
1M
E
Wiring it up
–15V
E
+15V
DIVIDE BOARDS DOWN THIS LINE (IF REQUIRED)
–15V
E
+15V
120OPTIONAL
3
0110
HEATSINK
OPTIONAL
HEATSINK
2002 )C(
REG2
7915
REG1
7815
5197
5187
470F
470F
15V
1N4004
100F
1N4004
1N4004
1N4004
100F
OPTIONAL
EARTH LINK
(SEE TEXT)
OK, back to the wiring. Fairly obviously, we needed
to unscrew the plywood, masonite or other sheet which
covers the bottom of the turntable plinth. Most turntables
will have similar plinths.
Ours happened to be an Apan belt-drive turntable which
had sat unused and unloved under the house since CDs
came into vogue.
But its belt was still perfect (they made ’em good in those
days!), while the cartridge and more importantly the stylus
were in great shape. (You should check out the stylus under
a powerful magnifying glass or loupe to make sure its point
isn’t chipped or worn).
In some turntables, the very thin wiring emerging from
the tone arm under the turntable will be terminated directly
to RCA or similar output sockets. But the majority will
terminate to a tagstrip or block, with flying leads going out
through the back of the plinth.
You have to connect the tone arm wiring to the inputs
of the preamp. This might be by resoldering them direct,
or perhaps using a short length of stereo shielded lead.
Every turntable will be different; you have to make the
decision according to yours.
In our case, it was easiest to unsolder the flying leads
from a tagstrip, solder those directly to the output pins on
our preamplifier and use short lengths of shielded cable to
connect from the tagstrip to the input pins.
On the mains side, first check and double check that
the plug is removed from the wall socket! (Don’t laugh, it
happens. . .).
Now identify where the wiring comes in and how it
connects to the motor.
Almost invariably, there is some form of switch (often
a microswitch) mechanically linked to the tone arm to
turn the motor on and off. You need to cut in before that
switch – you don’t want the preamp turning on and off
with the motor.
There are very few turntables with either a power switch
or a fuse, yet we wanted to add both of these so the preamp
wasn’t permanently left on.
So we traced the mains wiring from the power lead and
IN LEFT
E
E
R NI
E
noise ratio. While we used our Audio Precision test gear to
confirm the fact, you could actually hear the improvement.
Even more improvement was achieved mounting the
preamplifier in a metal box – we used a small folded aluminium type which itself was earthed to the 0V rail.
We didn’t mount the power supply in a metal box
(though theoretically this could be the ultimate!) for two
reasons. First, we tried various methods of shielding the
power supply and couldn’t measure any improvement but
second, and most importantly, parts of the underside of the
PC board are at mains potential and we would have had to
take extra precautions in the mounting.
As it was, we were able screw the power supply board
directly to one of the plywood surfaces underneath the
turntable, completely covering and insulating the “bitey”
bits.
Note that the mounting screws are all well away from PC
board tracks, which also assists in this regard.
Please, be careful when selecting the location for the
power supply. If necessary, use some insulated pillars or
stand-offs to mount the board.
15V
T1
20VA TRANSFORMER
SELF-TAPPING SCREW
UNDER BOARD TO
SECURE TRANSFORMER
120V
120V
MAINS RATED TERM BLOCK
E
N
E
A
Use this diagram in conjunction with the photographs to
construct your RIAA Preamplifier.
March 2002 73
IN R
IN L
E
R
01103021
01303021
(C) 2002
L
E
01303021
01103021
(C) 2002
7915
7815
A
E
unsoldered the active (brown or
perhaps red wire) and took this
directly to a single pole mains
switch. From there, we connected another length of cable to a
fuseholder and yet another length
back to original “active” termination on the tagstrip.
We used a neon-indicator
mains switch which necessitated connecting a length of blue
mains-rated cable from the neutral terminal on the tagstrip to
the neon terminal on the switch.
So far, all we’ve effectively done
is include a mains switch and fuse
into the existing turntable wiring.
To connect the preamplifier,
we soldered a length of three-core
mains lead to the (now switched
and fused) active terminal on
the tagstrip, the neutral terminal
and the earth terminal. This we
ran around the inside perimeter
of the plinth, secured with cable
clamps, until we got to the power
supply board.
The outer insulation was removed to a length of about 30mm
and the three wires were bared
back about 5mm or so. Each was
connected to its appropriate terminal on the PC board.
You will note that we have used
a four-terminal block for the three
wires (Active, Neutral and Earth).
This is just a bit of added safety:
the Neutral and Earth wires (blue
and green/yellow) sit side-by-side
– these are nominally at the same potential anyway because they are linked
back at your switchboard. The Active
wire (brown) is separated from the
others by an empty terminal.
Connecting the split boards
Because we (eventually!) decided
to separate our two boards, we had to
connect them together again. Provision
is made for this on the boards.
Solder another six PC stakes into
the –15V, 0V and +15V positions on
both boards and use a suitable length
of cable, secured around the inside perimeter of the plinth, to connect them.
Colours of the cables are not particularly important as long as the same
colour connects the same points on
each board!
And there you have it. All of those
black vinyl things (which many children today don’t even recognise!)
which have been sitting in your cupboards can now be enjoyed once again.
Oh, by the way – the outputs of the
preamp simply plug in to one of your
unused “aux” or similar inputs on your
stereo amplifier. Sometimes they are
labelled “line in”.
And if at some time you want to
use your turntable with an amplifier
that does have “phono” inputs, don’t
be tempted to use them with this
preamp in circuit. Apart from probable
massive overload, you’ll end up with
double RIAA equalisation. Not a good
sound at all. . .
SC
Enjoy!
N
Above is the full-size pattern for the PC board. At
right, this is what your RIAA preamplifier should
look like if separated from the power supply. At
this stage, we hadn’t soldered in any PC stakes.
74 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
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March 2002 75
VINTAGE RADIO
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
The AWA 719C Console; Pt.1
During the 1940s, AWA produced some very impressive sets and some of the best were the
7-band radio receivers. The first models were
produced in the early 40s but arguably the best
were produced after World War II.
An overview of the various 7-band
models was given in the May 2001
issue. In this article, we’ll take a
close look at one of the magnificent
console models, the 719C, and the
work involved in restoring it to its
former glory.
This particular set had had a rough
life. It’s obviously had rodents as
house guests at some stage and there
had also been considerable cabinet
damage due to moisture and exposure
to the elements.
With care and patience, it has now
been fully restored as shown in the accompanying photographs. Now I have
to admit that I didn’t do all the work
– although I am quite happy when it
comes to restoring the electronic circuitry, I am no expert at quality cabinet
restoration. So, once I’d removed the
chassis and loud
speaker and dial,
the cabinet was passed on to a friend,
Laurie Tilley, whose woodworking
ability far surpasses mine.
Removing the parts
Removing the chassis from the cabinet is a tricky job as the dial-scale/band
indicator is attached to the cabinet
itself and not to the chassis as in most
sets. This little design quirk leads to
other problems, as will be explained
next month in Pt.2 of this article.
It is first necessary to unclamp the
dial pointer from the dial-cord and
remove the band-change indicator
cable. If this isn’t done, it’s possible
to damage the dial-drive system. Next,
the extension shafts that go through the
right side of the cabinet and attach to
the band-change and tuning control
shafts are removed. The dial-lamp
cable and the speaker cable are then
un
plugged, after which the three
knobs on the front panel are removed,
followed by the four bolts securing
the chassis.
Because I wasn’t restoring the
cabinet myself, I also re
moved the
loudspeaker and baffle-board from
the lower section of the cabinet. The
baffle-board is held in place with six
wood screws, together with large felt
washers and sleeves. These help prevent cabinet vibrations which could
affect the stability of the local oscillator in the front end of the receiver.
The dial-scale assembly was removed by undoing the four screws
situated at the corners of the assembly. It was then carefully placed to
one side, so that it would not get
broken. The whole procedure sounds
complicated but it isn’t – just time
consuming.
The big clean up
The dial-scale cleaned up like new although there is some damage to some of
the markings for the shortwave bands.
76 Silicon Chip
The next task was to thoroughly
clean the chassis. As mentioned earlier, rodents had made their presence
felt but fortunately, the damage was
only cosmetic on the outside of the
chassis and there was no damage to
the components. Although the exterior
is now clean, areas of rust and other
corrosion are evident and do detract
from the appearance.
As can be appreciated, completely
dismantling a set of this complexity to
fully restore the chassis is not something to undertake lightly. Nor were
the owners keen to spend the extra
money needed to return the chassis
www.siliconchip.com.au
to pristine condition.
The 50 years of felt-like dust that
had accumulated at the front of the
speaker was removed. It is amazing
how much dust can accumulate in
a spot that is largely “covered” and
is due to the loose weave used in
speaker cloth.
At this stage, I lubricated all the
moving surfaces with light sewing-machine oil. These parts included the
control shafts, dial pulleys, switches
and the dial pointer slide. Many of
them had become difficult to operate
due to gumming up and the ingress of
dust. All now operate quite smoothly.
Next, the dial-scale was carefully
washed and the dial-pointer repainted
white. Before washing the dial-scale
though, I tried washing a small section
of the print in an inconspicuous spot,
to make sure it wouldn’t come off. In
this case, the print remained in place
– unlike some I’ve tested where the
dial markings are starting to fall off
without even touching them.
My advice is to be very careful when
cleaning dial-scales on the side where
the print is. If just dusting cleans a
dial-scale sufficiently, don’t do any
more as dial-scales are hard to replace.
Unfortunately, the dial-scale on this
set does have some damage on the
shortwave bands, as is evident from
the photograph. This damage was
present before any work was done on
the dial and is not due to cleaning.
Apart from this, the dial-scale
came up like new. The same goes for
the valves, which were also removed
and cleaned with soapy water. When
cleaning octal valves like this, the trick
is to keep the them upside down – that
way, the glass envelope can be cleaned
without water getting into the base.
Make sure that the type numbers
don’t get rubbed off during this process
– clean the valves gently. Clean valves
really do look nice when reinstalled
in the chassis.
First looks
Before really starting a circuit restoration, I like to have a good look at
the set to see what needs attention.
It is best to determine early whether
there are likely to be any faults that are
expensive to correct, such as a burntout power transformer or any other
obviously distressed components. In
this set, some work had been done
in the past to replace the original
www.siliconchip.com.au
The AWA 7-banders are extremely good performers
and have an impressive cabinet. In this case, the cabinet came up looking like new.
electrolytic capacitors (the old ones
had been left in-situ but disconnected
from the circuit).
I find that a headset magnifier is
quite an asset when checking into the
works of a set as complex as a 7-band
AWA receiver. They sell for around
$30, while an illuminated magnifier
is also available at over $100. I prefer
the headset magnifier. as it is easy to
move around the chassis, and use a
lead light of some sort to illuminate
the area of interest.
Getting back to the set, most of the
black “moulded mud” paper capacitors appeared to be in remarkably
good condition. Conversely, some of
the wiring looked a bit the worse for
wear, having perished over the last 50
years, and this included the high-tension wiring and AC input wires to the
power transformer. In fact, the transformer would definitely need attention before any power was applied to
the set.
Both the mains cord and plug had
been replaced at some time but neither was in good order. What’s more,
the PVC twin flex cord used was not
in keeping with the vintage of the
receiver.
Overhauling the circuitry
The first item to receive attention
was the power transformer. I began
by using my 1000V insulation tester
to check the integrity of the insulation
between the mains input and earth and
to the other windings. The secondary
HT winding was also checked by removing its centre-tap from earth and
then testing to earth. The resistance
in each half of the winding was also
checked using an ohmmeter and they
were both the same.
Having done those tests to prove that
the transformer itself was in good order, it was time to replace the perished
wiring. First, the terminal location of
each wire emerging from the front (or
chassis) side of the transformer was
noted on a piece of paper, along with
the colour of each wire.
This done, I removed the two
mounting bolts from the front of the
transformer and the two bolts which
March 2002 77
78 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: the set employs a 6-valve superheterodyne circuit with a multi-pole rotary switch for the band switching. Alignment is a complicated procedure but is
necessary for top performance.
There’s plenty of
room in the back of
the cabinet for the
chassis. The loudspeaker fits in the
cabinet immediately
beneath the chassis
shelf and is just visible at the bottom of
the picture.
clamp the transformer together, without removing the transformer from the
chassis. The front covering plate was
then removed so that the high-voltage
wiring was exposed. Each wire was
then individually removed from its
termination and replaced so that no
wiring errors could occur. The transformer was then reassembled.
The next step was to replace the
leaky paper capacitors. As mentioned
earlier, most of the black “moulded
mud” paper capaci
tors were quite
OK when tested with the high-voltage
tester. However, some had previously
been replaced with Ducon capacitors
which had now gone leaky and these
were all changed.
The resistors were all within tolerance and none required replacement.
Mains cord
As mentioned earlier, the mains
cord fitted was not in keeping with sets
of this vintage. As a result, I decided to
fit a new 3-core brown fabric-covered
mains lead, which would be similar
to the style of lead originally fitted.
The mains plug was in poor condition
and so this too was replaced. I used
a modern plastic plug and although
it doesn’t have a vintage appearance,
it is safe.
The chassis-entry grommet for the
mains lead had perished, so this too
was replaced. In addition, the lead was
securely clamped to the chassis – it’s
no longer permissible to tie a knot
in the power lead after it enters the
chassis, as was common some 50 years
ago.
As a further safety measure, the
earth lead of the power cord was
soldered to a lug which was securely
bolted to the chassis. As originally
manufactured, this set didn’t have an
www.siliconchip.com.au
earth wire in the mains lead and the
chassis wasn’t earthed.
The dial cord was also the worse
for wear, so a new cord was fitted.
Fig.1 shows how this is done. The
original 1mm-diameter (approx.) dial
cord required two turns around the
dial driveshaft to ensure an effective
grip. However, I generally use 0.7mm
cord so I put three turns on the dial
driveshaft just to make sure.
This works well and the dial mechanism is much freer than on many sets
I’ve come across. It even has a flywheel
on the drive shaft so that the set can
be rapidly tuned from one end of the
dial to the other.
A number of the insulated wires
within the set had perished, so these
were replaced one at a time. Finally,
a check was made with an ohmmeter
to verify that there were no short cir
cuits, particularly on the HT line. This
all checked out, so it was time to start
the testing procedure.
This was done several times to
“form” the electrolytic capacitors and
they remained cool during this procedure. The time taken to discharge
increased with each on/off cycle,
indicating that the capacitors had
“form
ed”. Being relatively modern
capacitors, they appeared to be quite
OK right from the word go.
By the way, it’s always a good idea
to go through this routine as the electrolytic capacitors may be badly in
need of “forming”. If the HT is simply
applied and left on, the capaci
tors
may overheat and explode. They may
also cause the rectifier to be severely
overloaded. However, short term
overloads rarely cause a problem and
the capacitors will usually quickly “reform”.
At this stage, all the valves were
replaced in their sockets and the set
again turned on. A quick check with
the multimeter revealed that all voltages were nominally correct. However,
after some time, the HT decreased due
to the fact that the 5Y3GT rectifier
had come to the end of its useful life.
A replacement valve soon fixed that
problem.
Next, an aerial and earth were con-
Looking for an old valve?
or a new valve?
Firing the set up
Power was initially applied to the
set with all the valves removed. The
AC voltages out of the secondary of
the transformer were then checked
and found to be a little high. This
was to be expected because, with the
rectifier valve removed, there is no
load on the transformer. I let the set
run like this for about 30 minutes and
the transformer stayed cool, indicating
that it was in good order.
The set was then turned off, the
rectifier and speaker plugged in, and
the mains switched on again. The HT
rose to nearly 500V, which is normal
with no load in these receivers. The
set was then switched off after a few
seconds and the electrolytics allowed
to discharge.
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St Leonards, Vic 3223
March 2002 79
Photo Gallery: Tasma Model 22
and it really is well worthwhile going
through the alignment procedure, to
get the best out of them. I’ll walk you
through the alignment steps in detail
next month.
Assembling the receiver
The Tasma Model 22, manufactured by Thom & Smith, Sydney, in 1931
is a 3-valve TRF receiver. It used the following valves: 224 detector, 247
output and 280 rectifier. (Photo and information courtesy of Historical
Radio Society of Australia).
nected to the receiver, as it was time
to tune around and see whether the
set was in working order. I switched
to the broadcast band and found a
number of stations. 3GG on 531 kHz is
a good test where I live, being a 5kW
station with a directional antenna
some 200km away. If the signal is loud
and clear from this station, I know
that the set being tested is in good
order.
Crook grommets
There was one problem – the tuning
gang mounting grommets had perished
and so the gang wobbled around.
Unfortunately, unless the coil sub-assembly is dismantled (a major job), it
isn’t possible to directly replace the
grommets.
To get around this problem, I began
by cleaning all the hardened rubber out
from around the two mounts near the
dial drum. I then slit a gang-mounting
80 Silicon Chip
grommet through its slot, so that I
ended up with two rubber washers.
These were then cut so that they could
be opened out and slipped around the
metal gang mounting posts near the
dial drum
A small screwdriver to was used
push each half-grommet under each
flat near the metal mounting posts.
They were then secured in place by
applying some glue to their outside
edges and the chassis. Each half-grommet now provides some support for
the gang and there is some give on
the mount.
Alignment
Alignment is quite a task with the
AWA “seven-banders” and the 719C
is no exception. In fact, I gather that
most owners of these sets tend to shy
away from aligning them and I can’t
say I blame them.
That said, they are excellent sets
While I’d been solving the circuit
problems, Laurie Tilley had been
restoring the cabinet as near as practical to its original condition. It looks
good, as the photograph shows, and
the owners are happy with the their
family heirloom.
Once the cabinet had been returned,
the speaker and baffle were replaced
and the six 50mm mounting screws
(along with the felt washers and
sleeves) were installed to hold the
baffle in place. It really is quite an
elaborate system to ensure that baffle
vibrations are not transferred to the
oscillator tuning components and thus
cause instability.
The dial-scale and then the chassis
were also refitted to the cabinet. The
dial-scale has four small screws and
the chassis has four larger metal thread
bolts holding it to the cabinet shelf.
The dial-scale clamp was then re
attached to the dial cord and the bandchange bowden cable was reattached
to the band-change drum.
The position of the bowden cable
within its clamp allows for some adjustment of the band indicator behind
the dial glass. Finally, the extension
shafts for the band-change and tuning
controls were installed, the knobs fitted and the loudspeaker reconnected.
I timed myself doing this job and it
takes almost 30 minutes. This included adjusting the dial pointer position
and the band-change indicator. As a
matter of interest, I later tested myself
on a much simpler Precedent mantel
set and it took me just 60 seconds to
do what had taken half an hour on
the AWA set!
Disaster strikes
Once the assembly had been completed, the set was given a final performance check to make sure everything
was OK. The clamp on the dial-cord
was then adjusted so that the stations
appeared in their correct positions on
the dial.
By this stage, the set was going
nicely and I was admiring the cabinet
and its performance when it suddenly
stopped working. So what had gone
wrong?
www.siliconchip.com.au
The grid of the first audio stage
(6G8G) comes out to a top cap and so,
using a time-honoured technique, I
touched it with my finger – all I heard
was a thin squeak rather than the expected healthy “blurt”. I tried another
6V6GT audio output valve but it made
no difference. And that meant that the
set had to be dismantled again, so that
I could find out where the fault was.
Once I had it dismantled, I tested
around the audio section and found no
problems. Then a small sliver of wire
fell out of the wiring – a leftover from
a snipped component lead. Perhaps it
was this that was causing the problem
but, despite shorting various sections,
I couldn’t reproduce the symptoms
originally observed.
In the end, I concluded that this
had to be the answer so the set was
reassembled. It worked well for a while
– then stopped again. I advanced the
volume control and the set suddenly
burst into life. This is usually a sign
of a bad connection somewhere, either
a dry joint or a corroded or poor joint
inside a component. At least I was
starting to narrow down the source of
the problem.
It was time to get serious about
finding the problem. Often, with intermittent faults, the best approach
is to connect the appropriate test
equipment and then just wait for the
fault to show. In this case, I connected
my DMM (set to the 400V range) to
the plate of the 6G8G, to measure the
plate volts under normal and fault
conditions. I also connected an audio
signal tracer to the grid of the 6V6GT
to see if audio was getting this far with
out trouble. Note: for safety reasons,
it is necessary to switch the set off
when changing the test instrument
test points.
Next, I adjusted the volume controls
(at low level) on both the set and the
signal tracer for the same volume.
After a while the set went quiet
but the test instruments showed no
change.
I then connected the DMM to the
plate of the 6V6GT and connected the
signal tracer to the same spot. When
the fault reappeared, the plate circuit
of the 6V6GT was still operating correctly, with both the voltage and the
audio the same as before the fault.
I then moved the speaker and the
fault came and went (this had had no
effect previously). Careful inspection
using the headset magnifier revealed a
www.siliconchip.com.au
Photo Gallery: Airzone Model 300
Manufactured by Airzone, Sydney, in 1934, the Model 300 is a typical Australian “cathedral” style set. It is a 4-valve superheterodyne set with the following
valve types: 57 autodyne mixer, 50 amplifier, 59 anode bend detector/output
and 80 rectifier. (Photo and information courtesy of Historical Radio Society of
Australia).
dry joint on the hum bucking coil on
the speaker. The joint was resoldered
and the radio now operates reliably for
the first time in 50 or so years.
Summary
As mentioned, aligning this receiver
can be quite a chore. The “7-banders”
are all slightly different in their align
ment details and dial glasses, which
means that the precise details for a
particular model are needed if accurate
alignment is to be achieved.
Unfortunately, very little alignment
data is available, except in Volume 6
of the AORSM manuals. However, I
have been thoroughly frustrated by the
published alignment instructions and
the errors that have crept in.
In the end, I developed a method
that is relatively easy and is as accurate
as possible for all models.
The AWA 7-banders are expensive
receivers to service, especially if you
want to achieve the best performance
possible. The performance is (as expected) extremely good and the cabinet is impressive and really looks the
part in the lounge room.
The tuning range covers 530kHz to
22.3MHz in seven bands. It has band
spread on the higher frequency bands
and has a tuning mechanism that is
very free, which makes tuning a dream
compared to a normal dual-wave set
covering nearly the same tuning range.
In summary, the AWA 719C console
is a highly sought-after radio, with impressive performance, ease of tuning
and a high price tag. If you have the
room to display one of these radios,
SC
go for it.
March 2002 81
Higher Intelligence:
Solar Power
Battery
Charger
By Ross Tester
Elsewhere in this issue there is a feature which doesn’t
portray grid-connected solar power in a particularly good
light. To show that we’re not against solar power per se,
here’s an intelligent battery charger specifically intended
for storage-type solar power systems.
82 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
T
here are many people across
Australia, nay, around the
world, who rely on “free” power
from the sun, courtesy of the solar cells
mounted on their roofs.
For many of those, solar power is
their only source of power: typically, these are people who live too far
away from the electricity grid to make
connection economic. For them, the
somewhat questionable economic returns of solar power don’t come into
the equation: if you want power, you
have to make it yourself.
As we mentioned in that feature,
the basic choices are hydro, wind,
bio-mass or solar. And while there are
plenty of micro-hydro systems, wind
generators and even some small-scale
bio-mass systems, by far the largest
percentage of people opt for solar
power.
However, there are many others,
city and country who, for many reasons –environmental, experimental,
(or perhaps just plain mental!) have
decided that they too would like some
of this “free” power.
The main difference between solar
power in the suburbs or towns and
remote solar power is the way the
power is used when it is generated.
Where increasing numbers of city
dwellers with solar power these days
probably have “grid-linked” systems,
invariably, remote solar power generators must use some pretty muscly
batteries to store the power when the
sun is out, ready for use when it is (a)
needed, or (b) dark/cloudy/rainy/etc.
Typically, banks of storage batteries are used. In the past, a lot of
people have used (expensive!) traction-type batteries (eg, fork-lift, etc)
because these are designed to be deep
cycled.
Such treatment destines your typical car or truck battery to a very short
life.
In recent years, batteries have come
onto the market which are specifically
intended for power storage (eg, solar
power) applications.
Most systems use series and parallel
connected batteries to give both high
current and high voltage (well, higher
than six or twelve volts!) systems.
The reason for this is mainly in the
higher efficiency of DC/AC inversion
from a higher voltage and lower I2R
losses in the system. 24V is common,
as is 48V. Above this, though, you
Q2
MTP2955
(SEE TEXT)
could start to get into difficulties with
running from 12V solar cells.
That’s not to say a 12V battery system is not perfectly practical; in fact,
you can use a commercially-available
12V/240V (or more usually 230V) inverter and save a lot of hassles. Some
of these are very efficient, these days.
And we aren’t saying that anyone
in the middle of suburbia shouldn’t
put in a solar power system, if that is
your want. Whether you want to save
the planet or not (or perhaps you’ve
come across some cheap solar panels!)
you have every right to put in your
own system.
Where the situation does become
a bit muddied is when you want to
connect your solar system to your
home wiring, using existing power
outlets and so on.
The power authorities have some
pretty strict rules about how this is
done, especially in the way your system is isolated from theirs.
We suggest if you do want to put
in a solar power system, keep it completely separate from the domestic
mains supply.
Besides, unless you’re a licenced
electrician, you’re not allowed to do
D1
A
K
0.33
E
Q1
BC557
2.2M
B
C
22k
MBR1645
D2
D
A
1k
100F
35VW
100
1W
S
G
ZD1
15V
D3
1N4004
S
D MBR1645
G
Q3
MTP2955
100F
35VW
6.8k
LINK FOR
12V ONLY
120k
22k
1
7
120k
CHARGING
0.033F
LED2
22k
IC1b
5
13
6
IC1d
4
12
1
7
1k
11
14
FAN
CHARGED
9
IC1c
3
S0
+5V
IN
IC2
L4949
S
2
VR1
2k
GND
5
100F
16VW
12k
C
D5
1N4148
Q4
2N5551
B
120k
OUTPUT
TO
BATTERIES
(CON2)
2.2M
1k
10
8
IC1a
8
LED1
22k
D4
1N4004
100F
35VW
INPUT
FROM
SOLAR
PANELS
(CON1)
120k
K
0.033F
+
1k
E
2
–
MBR1645
SC
2002
INTELLIGENT SOLAR CHARGER
K
A
MTP2955
D
S
G
D
The intelligent charger is built around a specialised IC, an L4949 made by
On Semiconductor. It can suit 12V and 24V systems.
www.siliconchip.com.au
March 2002 83
anything with your home wiring. But
that’s another story in itself!
Charging the batteries
Having invested sometimes thousands of dollars in batteries, it is
important to “treat them right” to
maximise not only their life but also
the power you can store in them and
get from them.
“Treating them right” means not
only the way they are stored (eg,
batteries don’t normally like being
placed directly on concrete floors),
maintained (eg, distilled water level
where appropriate) but also in the
way they are charged and discharged.
It has been fairly common practice
to simply connect the solar cells in
series with the battery, usually via
a series diode to prevent the battery
discharging through the cells when
they’re not producing power.
As the solar cells are essentially a
constant current device, this is not a
real problem when the batteries are
either fully or partially discharged.
However, it is not good for the
batteries when they are charged. The
solar cells don’t know this and they
keep on pumping out power while
ever the sun shines. Result: overcharged batteries.
This will certainly lower the battery life – and that’s why you need a
regulator. It senses the state of charge:
while the batteries are less than fully
charged, it allows the solar cells to
pump in as much power as good ol’
Sol will allow. But when they are
nearly charged, it starts throttling
back the electrons so the battery won’t
overcharge.
Circuit operation
This circuit is designed for either
12V and 24V systems with the chang-
Larger-than-life view shows the input and output connectors at the front of the
PC board along with the (optional) fan. This fan should not be needed for solar
panel systems (a small heatsink will suffice).
ing of just one link.
At the heart of the circuit is IC2, an
L4949 monolithic integrated 5.0V voltage regulator with a very low dropout
voltage and additional functions such
as power-on reset and input voltage
sense. In this circuit we use the 5V
regulator because of its extremely
low quiescent current. When there
is no power source (ie, solar cells)
connected, the total current drawn
from the battery is around 300uA.
We also employ the voltage sensing
comparator section of this IC as the
main switching device with hysteresis.
The power-on reset circuit is not used.
Incidentally, a specification sheet
for this IC can be found at the manufacturer’s (ON SEMICONDUCTOR)
web site:
www.onsemi.com/pub/prod 0,1824,
p ro d u c t s m _ P ro d u c t S u m m a r y _
BasePart Number%253DL4949,00.html
Instead of typing all that, it is probably easier to search for L4949 at google.
com as it will be the first item to come
up, in less than a second!
For the following explanation,
assume that there is a supply voltage
present at the source (Solar Panel etc),
therefore the voltage at pins 9 and 13
of IC1 would be at logic 1.
Pin 2 is the input pin for the battery
sensor section of the IC. When the
voltage at this pin falls to 1.24V the
open collector output pin 8 is pulled
internally to ground. This pin would
normally be connected in series with
a resistor and a Battery Low indicator
LED to a positive supply.
In this circuit pin 8 pulls the input
of IC1b to logic 0 level via a 120kΩ resistor so the output from this inverting
gate would be at logic 1. Since both
the inputs of IC1d are now logic 1 the
output would be at logic 0 and LED2
K&W HEATSINK EXTRUSION. SEE OUR WEBSITE FOR
THE COMPLETE OFF THE SHELF RANGE.
84 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
D1
MBR1645
B
15V
22k
22k
.033F
100 1W
+
FAN
�
C
Q1
BC557
K
A
CON1 INPUT
D2
MBR1645
K
CON2 OUTPUT
1k
6.8k
22k
120k
120k
100F
+ �
1
LINK 2
A
100F
LINK 1: IN FOR SOLAR PANELS
OUT FOR POWER SUPPLIES
1k
120k
IC1
4093
D5
120k
4148
G
+
1k
ZD1
D
+
E
S
K
100F
+
G
K
1
LED1
GREEN
IC2
L4949
D
D3
D4
S
A
4148
4148
2.2M
LINK 1
0.33
5W
Q3
MTP2955
2.2M
Q2
MTP2955
2N5551
Q2 & Q3 MOUNTED
METAL SIDE UP
B E
C
D1 & D2 MOUNTED
METAL SIDE UP
Q4
22k
A
1k
LED2
RED
GREY OUTLINE IS AREA OF
HEATSINK/FAN (IF USED)
.033F
12k
VR1
2k
100F
+
(Red) would light to indicate that the
battery was charging.
Because of the inverting action of
IC1a, the level at the output of IC1c
would remain at logic 1 and LED1
would not light. Q4 is turned on via
the 120kΩ resistor and the gates of
P-channel Mosfets Q2 and Q3 are
pulled low via the 22kΩ resistor. Q2
and Q3 conduct, allowing the battery
to charge. A small amount of current
is fed by the forward biased diode (D5)
and the 2.2MΩ resistor to the voltage
divider network, thus effectively
slightly increasing the voltage at the
sensing pin, (pin 2). The addition of
this resistor effectively reduces the
hysteresis voltage of this part of the
circuit.
When the voltage at pin 2 rises to
1.34V, the internal transistor at the
output is turned off and the voltage
at the input of IC1b is pulled high (to
+5V), again via the 120kΩ resistor.
LED2 is turned off and LED1 (Green)
is turned on, indicating that the battery is fully charged. Transistor Q4
and the Mosfets are turned off so the
charging ceases.
For a 12V battery (LINK2 in) and
with the values selected in the resistor
divider network and a centred potentiometer, the voltage of the battery
being charged will need to reach approximately 14.2V before the charging
is stopped.
Charging will will resume when the
battery voltage drops to 13.7V.
For a 24V battery (LINK2 out), the
voltage of the battery being charged
will need to reach approximately
28.4V before the charging is stopped.
Charging will resume when the battery
voltage drops to 27.4V.
+ �
LINK 2: IN FOR 12V BATTERIES
OUT FOR 24V BATTERIES
Same-size views of the component overlay and matching straight-on
photograph. The 3.3W resistor in the pic below is actually in the “Link
1” position – but it doesn’t matter ’cos they’re in parallel.
Charging from a supply
While the circuit is designed for
use with solar panels, it can (with
a minor modification) be used with
other sources of power.
Solar panels have a limited current
output so it does not matter if they
are connected directly across the
battery: the current will be similar
in value when the battery is “full” or
“flat”. When this charger is used as a
regulator for solar panels, the 0.33Ω,
5W resistor should be shorted with a
link for most efficient operation. In
this case the only loss is due to the
“on” resistance of the Mosfets and
the low forward drop of the Shottky
diode/s.
www.siliconchip.com.au
However if the charger is used
in conjunction with power sources
that do not have current limiting (for
example a bench power supply or
an automotive battery charger) the
circuit can be made to current limit
by removing the link across the 0.33Ω
resistor. When the voltage across
the current limiting resistor exceeds
0.6V transistor Q1 is turned on, thus
reducing the gate voltage applied to
the Mosfets. This serves as a simple
constant current source, the value of
which equals 0.6/0.33A. To increase
the current, reduce the value of the
resistor.
To minimise battery drain when the
solar panel is not supplying power,
the voltage at pins 9 and 13 of IC1 are
logic low and both the LED’s are at
turned off no matter what the state of
the battery is.
Two series diodes, D3 and D4, were
added to reduce the supply voltage
to IC2 by approximately 1.2V. This is
necessary for a 24V battery as although
the IC has a transient supply voltage of
40V, its maximum continuous supply
voltage is 28V.
In each kit are one 10A Shottky
diode and two power Mosfets. The
total dissipation in the two Mosfets
would be approx. 0.15W at 1A, rising
to 2.4W at 4A. Doubling the number of
March 2002 85
Parts List – Intelligent
Solar Charger
1 PC board, 98 x 70mm, code
K009B (Oatley Electronics)
1 U-shaped heatsink (or fan/
heatsink – see text)
Semiconductors
1 4093 quad NAND Schmitt
gate package (IC1)
1 L4949 voltage regulator (IC2)
1 BC557 PNP transistor (Q1)
1 MTP2955 P-channel mosfets
(Q2) (Can use two – see text)
1 2N5551 NPN transistor (Q4)
1 MBR1645 Schottky diodes
(D1) (Can use two – see text)
3 1N4148 small signal diodes
(D3-D5)
1 15V 0.5V zener diode
1 Green LED (LED1)
1 Red LED (LED2)
Capacitors
3 100µF 35VW electrolytic
1 100µF 16VW electrolytic
2 .033µF MKT polyester (code
33n or 333)
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
2 2.2MΩ 4 120kΩ 4 22kΩ
1 6.8kΩ
1 12kΩ
4 1kΩ
1 100Ω 1W (for optional fan)
1 0.33Ω 5W (only required if
power supply is used instead
of solar panel)
Optional:
1 12V fan/heatsink
mosfets would reduce this total power
dissipation by 1/2.
Increasing the number of Mosfets
results in better efficiency but is hardly
needed. Other types of Mosfet with a
lower “on” resistance could be used
(an MTP2955 has an on resistance of
0.3Ω).
As an example a 60W solar panel
is rated to deliver approxiamtely 4.3A
into a floating lead acid battery (14V).
With this panel the mosfets would
dissipate a total of about 2.8W. A
small heatsink would be necessary
but a fan is not.
The fan shown in our photographs
is an option, for use when the link is
removed and the circuit is used as a
constant current source. Here the total
dissipation in the Mosfets becomes
the supply voltage minus the battery
voltage times the current. A 1Ω/1W
86 Silicon Chip
resistor is supplied in the kit. With
this the current is limited to 0.6A,
so the dissipation in the two mosfets
would be a total of 1.5W for a 2.5V
voltage difference (this figure applies
when the optional Kenwood plugpack
is used).
Construction
With the exception of the (optional)
fan, all components mount on a single
PC board, coded K009B. As usual,
inspect the board before assembly for
any defects – shorts between tracks
or broken tracks – and if necessary,
repair them.
Most of the construction is pretty
much standard: start with the lowest
profile components first (resistors,
small capacitors) and move from their
to the larger capacitors (watch the
polarity on the electrolytics) and then
the semiconductors.
Naturally, all semiconductors are
polarised so ensure they go in the
right way. Leave the two Mosfets and
one or two Schottky diodes for a moment.
Whether you use sockets or not for
the ICs is up to you but if you do, be
careful to align the sockets the same
way as shown on the PC board overlay,
and be even more careful to get all
the pins in straight when inserting
the ICs.
Now’s the time to decide what format you’re going to build the regulator
in – ie, for a 12V or 24V system, and
whether it is for solar panels or for use
with a power supply.
For 12V, a small link shorts out the
120kΩ and 22kΩ resistors near the
lower right corner of the board (leave
the link out for a 24V system). Of
course these two resistors are redundant and could be left out but for the
sake of ten cents, they might as well
be included.
The second choice (solar cells or
power supply) determines whether
the 0.33Ω resistor is in circuit or not.
For solar cells, it can be shorted out
via a link (left side of PC board) but if
you are going to use it on any device
without current limiting (or want to
make it dual purpose), keep the resistor in circuit (ie, don’t solder the link
in).
The Mosfet(s) and diode(s) are the
last components to solder in. They
may look quite similar so don’t mix
them up! The one or two Mosfets (depending on your requirements) mount
at the top of the board with their metal
side(s) up – that is, opposite to the way
you would normally solder them into
a circuit. This is to allow contact with
the heatsink.
The one (or two) Schottky diode(s)
mount at the bottom of the board (closest to the connectors) and solder in
the “normal” way – metal side down.
Finally, solder in the two PC board
mounting screw connectors, CON1
and CON2 and the board is finished.
Setting up
To set the charge, you will need to
have the 12V or 24V battery connected and the solar panel(s) or power
supply connected. You can set it with
a power supply and use the same setting for a solar panel but make sure
the 0.33Ω resistor is in circuit if you
do!
Turn VR1 fully clockwise. Monitor
the battery voltage (with a multimeter) and when the battery reaches its
correct charge voltage (14.2V or 28.4V
for 12V and 24V systems respectively),
slowly turn VR1 anti-clockwise until
the green LED lights.
Optional fan
If you decide you want to fit the fan
(as shown in the prototype) this simply
clips over the PC board along with its
integral heatsink.
However, as we mentioned, for use
with solar panels this fan should not
be necessary – a small heatsink will
suffice.
The 100Ω resistor on the PC board
allows the nominally 12V fan to run
from the higher voltage produced from
the solar panels (up to 18-20V).
Wheredyageddit?
This design is copyright Oatley
Electronics (PO Box 89, Oatley, NSW
2223). Phone 02 9584 3563; Fax 02
9584 3561.
website: www.oatleyelectronics.com;
email sales<at>oatlelectronics.com SC
Kit/Component Prices
BASIC KIT: PCB and all components
but with one Shottky diode: $21.00
Optional clip-on fan/heatsink: $4.50
Extra Mosfets:
$3.00
Extra Shottky diodes:
$3.00
16.5V/650mA Kenwood plugpack with
non-standard mains connector: $4.00
Postage for any qty/mixture: $7.00
www.siliconchip.com.au
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Write to: Ask Silicon Chip, PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097; or
send an email to silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
Battery charger
killed a transistor
D2 may be OK but it would be wise to
check that it is not also a short circuit.
I would be grateful for your assistance with the Multipurpose Fast Battery Charger Mk2 which was featured
in the June & July 2001 issues. I have
built this project from a Jaycar kit and
on switch-on I unfortunately had a
short-circuit caused by a tiny piece
of metal swarf trapped behind Q2.
I have rectified this and all the tests
mentioned in the article measure OK.
However the voltage across the
output terminals remains at full (about
18V), irrespective of the position of
switch S5. I have replaced IC1 but
this has not improved matters. (D. M.,
via email).
• Almost certainly transistor Q1 has
gone short circuit because it would
have driven the short-circuited Q2.
Questions on
harmonic distortion
Video sharpening optimisation
I’ve recently bought the Doctor
Video kit featured in the April
2001 issue of SILICON CHIP and I
have tried it out a bit. Although
the picture was pretty good, it was
not quite as good as I would have
liked it to be.
In the kit instructions, it says that
by varying the 330Ω resistor up or
down you can change the amount
Can you answer these questions for
me with relation to manufacturers’
THD figures for audio power amplifiers? If the test is run at, say, 1kHz
<at> 0dBm into 8-ohm loads and the
figure they quote is .01%, is this just
prior to the onset of clipping? At what
harmonic frequency do they measure
the distortion – 1st, 2nd or 3rd? Is the
test performed the same way or does
it vary, depending on what figure
they are after (ie, looks best)? (G. G.,
via email).
• Generally, the distortion quoted
should be associated with the rated
power or maximum power (ie, just
of high frequency video boosting
given by the sharpen switch. What
would be the absolute maximum I
should vary it or what is the next
best resistor value to use?
I also have the same questions
about the 82pF capacitor. (P. B.,
via email).
• The limit to video sharpening
comes about when you observe
more noise and graininess in the
picture. So vary the resistor and
capacitor with this fact in mind.
before onset of clipping). Harmonic
distortion or THD (total harmonic
distortion) refers to all the harmonics
and noise contained in the signal.
Programmable ignition
for a Falcon
I realize this may be a bit of a longshot but I was wondering if there is
any known information on fitting the
“Program
mable Electronic Ignition
System For Cars” (from March 1996)
to an 1998 EL Falcon. Perhaps you
may be able to refer me to some information source on how this may be
wired to the existing ECU in the car.
(J. P., via email).
• We strongly recommend against
trying to use the Programmable Ignition in any late-model car with an
existing engine management system.
The OEM system monitors quite an
array of sensors in order to control the
fuel injection, ignition timing and the
automatic transmission whereas the
programmable ignition only monitors
manifold vacuum.
Brighter indicators
for rev limiter
I have just purchased the Rev Limit
er project described in April 1999 from
Jaycar electronics. I want to know if
it is possible to replace the indicator
lamps with relays to operate a much
bigger indicator light, say a 21W bulb,
PARALLAX BS2-IC BASIC STAMP $112.00 INC GST
WE STOCK THE COMPLETE DEVELOPMENT SYSTEM
www.siliconchip.com.au
March 2002 87
Upgrading the 100W
DC-DC converter
I am currently considering building a couple of your 100W DC-DC
converters for car amplifiers, as
described in your December 1990
issue. I have a few questions regarding design and component availability.
My first question is where do you
get the Siemens EC-41N27 ferrite
transformer core, bobbin and case?
Secondly, I would like to know
if there is any immediate problem
with pulling 50 more watts out of
the converter. If I use slightly thicker
winding wire in the transformer
and inductors (in proportion with
the original sizes, of course) and
upgrade the diodes, Mosfets and
capacitors in the high current areas,
I cannot not see a problem. Your
as I run a race-car and want an indicator that I will notice. (T. M., via email).
• You can replace each lamp with a
12V relay and a diode, with anode to
the transistor collector and cathode to
0V; ie, each diode is reverse biased.
Stereo FM Minimitter
blows the zener diode
I have purchased a Minimitter kit
from Jaycar. I have assembled it and
I am having a little problem that you
may have a solution for. I have tuned
the transmitter to 100MHz, without a
sound source. As soon as I connect a
sound source, the 3.3V zener diode
goes up in smoke! I would like to use
this transmitter on my computer to
transmit MP3 signals to another radio
in the house.
The circuit is powered with 6VDC
comments would be appreciated.
Finally, I would like to use one
Mosfet per side of the push-pull network. Can I substitute one BUK45660A Mosfet for the two MTP3055s,
or will this Mosfet not handle the
switching speeds required? (T. B.,
via email).
• The EC41 is difficult to obtain now
but the ETD44 should do the job. It
will not quite fit into the PC holes
but can be made to fit. Also it has a
larger area than the EC41 to allow a
55% increase in power.
This part is available from Farnell Electronic Components. Phone
1300 361 005 and ask for the cores
305-6405 (two required), the bobbin
305-6326 (one required) and clips
105-775 (two required).
You can use higher-rated Mosfets
instead of two MTP3055 types.
BUK456s should be fine.
from the external socket. I am getting
the power from the PC using a Low
Voltage Adapter Kit (Dick Smith
Kit K-3594), as published by EA in
August 1997. It basically has 12VDC
input shared by a fan, put through the
regulator to provide the 6VDC output.
I can’t find anything wrong there. It
provides a very accurate 6.03VDC. The
sound source is from the sound card
through a 3.5mm headphone jack to
an RCA connector.
I have checked and re-checked all
components and their orientation. As
I mentioned above, the circuit seems
to work fine without a sound source.
Perhaps the output voltage from the
sound card is excessive? However,
I have powered the transmitter on
batteries with sound and didn’t have
a problem! (A. P., via email).
• Not knowing the circuit for the
DC power supply you are using, it is
hard for us to solve the problem specifically. However, you can be fairly
certain that the grounding of the power
supply (-Ve terminal) is not at 0V as
would be the signal ground for the
sound source.
You could try disconnecting the
ground connection of the signal inputs leads and coupling with a large
capacitor (electrolytic 10µF or larger,
but ensure correct polarity by measuring with a multimeter). This should
prevent the drastic DC current flow
between the supply ground and the
signal ground.
Using the speed control
for light dimming
I am interested in purchasing the
DC motor controller kit (K-3070) from
Dick Smith Electronics to use as a DC
light dimmer. Is it possible to modify
this kit to handle higher currents, say
12A. Possibly using a higher current
Mosfet and/or heatsink and wiring?
(S. B., via email).
• It is not really practical to modify
the January 1994 design to get much
higher current. Instead, we would
recommend the 12/24V 20A speed
control published in the June 1997
issue. This is available in kit form from
Jaycar. We can supply the June 1997
issue for $7.70 including postage.
Universal power adaptor wanted
I do a lot of work internationally and
have a multitude of chargers/power
supplies to power laptops, printers,
cameras, phone, etc. Everywhere I go I
have a different adaptor/lead for each
unit which is annoying and takes up
valuable baggage space.
Is there a universal power adaptor
which I could buy to solve the prob-
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be
carried out according to the instructions in the articles. When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do
not accidentally come into contact with mains AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects
employing mains voltages or other high voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd
disclaims any liability for damages should anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of
SILICON CHIP magazine. Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any
liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims
any liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the Trade
Practices Act 1974 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are applicable.
88 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
Modified PIC
tachometer
I am trying to modify the PIC
tachometer described in the April
2000 issue. I want to replace the
LED bargraph with high brightness
LEDs on flying leads.
It worked fine with the original
bargraph on flying leads, with a
common earth for LEDs 1-7, another common earth from LEDs 8-10,
common signal for LEDs 8-10 and
individual feeds for LEDs 1-7.
When the high brightness LEDs
were hooked up the thing overheated. I am unsure of the reason
for the overheating but suspect that
the seven 150Ω resistors need to
be substituted with another value.
lem? I bought some useful units from
Dick Smith Electronics but these
provide only standard voltages. Some
manufacturers (eg, Canon, Sony) use
special voltages; eg, 5.7V and 13V.
Would I cause damage if I used a 6V
instead of 5.7V and 12/15V instead of
15V? (B. G., via email).
• The most practical approach is to
buy a switchable regulated plugpack
such as the Cat MP-3030 from Jaycar
or one of the switchable switchmode
regulated plugpacks Cat MP3420 or
MP3031, also from Jaycar. They should
also be close enough to provide the
5.7V or 13V you refer to.
Problem with the
6-LED torch
I’ve just built the DSE kit of the
6-LED torch project from the May
2001 issue. It doesn’t work. Actually,
it’s the second one I’ve built – the first
one works fine so I’ve been able to
compare the two.
I’d just like your opinion. I’m pretty
sure the MAX1676 is dead but before I
order one from DSE I thought I might
check with you first. I’ve checked my
soldering, checked for shorts around
the 1676 and for continuity from the
1676 to the rest of the circuit, but
haven’t resorted to pulling out and
replacing resistors and capacitors yet.
I’ve also done some static resistance
checks versus the good circuit and they
seem to be OK. I have measured the
voltages on the 1676 pins (to nearest
www.siliconchip.com.au
I know the PIC is blown because
the first two digits don’t function.
They do function when the display
board is plugged into a functioning
processor board but only one high
brightness LED lights up. The others
may have suffered in the overload.
Any help would be appreciated.
(S. N., via email).
• You should be able to drive LEDs
off the PC board without problems.
We think you have damaged transistor Q3 so that its emitter and
collector are shorted.
Alternatively, the commoned
anodes of LEDs 9-10 may be shorted
to the commoned anodes of LEDs
1-7 on your wiring modification.
Note that these anodes need to be
separated.
.05V). What caught my attention was
pin 5 (Vref) which measures 0.25V.
Would this indicate a faulty chip?
Overall, the faulty circuit is drawing
<1mA, so there are no obvious short
circuits. (A. F., via email).
• It does appear that the Max chip is
not doing its job. You could remove
the chip (including carrier PC board)
from the good torch and place this in
the bad torch to check whether the
circuit then works.
Before doing this, check the orientation of the IC. We have heard of some
constructors not getting the torch to
work because the IC is in the wrong
way. Luckily, the chip is not damaged
if this happens.
Request for circuit symbol information
If possible, please advise the meaning of the down arrow from the 12V
node near C2 to the +12V indicator,
as shown in the 12V soldering iron
controller circuit on page 78 of the
November 2001 issue. My best guess
is that this a general indicator meaning
that this node should be at the specified value; ie, +12V with respect to the
common ground. (D. W., via email).
• The down arrow means that it
connects to other parts of the circuit
which also require +12V; ie, pin 8 of
IC2. This can be thought of as a drafting
“shorthand” which avoids the need to
show all supply lines joined together
on the circuit.
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March 2002 89
REFERENCE
GREAT BOOKS FOR
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AUDIO POWER AMP DESIGN HANDBOOK
PIC Your Personal Introductory Course
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Concise and practical guide to getting up and
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prior knowledge of microcontrollers, introduces
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Ideal introduction for students, teachers,
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By Douglas Self. 2nd Edition Published 2000
by John Morton – 2nd edition 2001
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382 pages, in paperback.
This book is for anyone involved in designing,
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LAST E! ELECTRONICS
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OP AMPS EXPLAINED
by Bryan Maher
8
$
50 pp
p&
in
inc p&
50
$$
14
(NZ:Z: 14
(N
First published in 1988 and reprinted due to its popularity, Op Amps
Explained is still regarded as one of
the easiest-to-understand reference
works on operational amplifiers.
Starts with first concepts – negative
feedback – and goes right through
to power amplifiers, oscillators and
filters, supplies, etc.
120 pages, soft cover
BASIC ELECTRONICS
by Peter Phillips
An easy introduction to electronics for students and hobbyists,
from basic electronics through to
digital. If you want to start at the
very start, this is the book you
want.
Also includes some simple projects to build.
120 pages, soft cover
8
$
50
in
inc p&pp
50
50
(N
(NZ:Z: $$14
14 inc
incp&
p&p)p)
)
p&p)p
incp&
inc
SILICON CHIP'S
SILICON
ILICON CHIP'S
HIP'S
COMPUTER OMNIBUS
First published 1999
ELECTRONICS
ELECTRONICS TEST
TEST BENCH
BENCH
First
First published
published 2000
2000
Hints, tips, Upgrades and Fixes for
your computer from articles published in SILICON CHIP in recent years.
Covers DOS, Windows 3.1, 95, 98
and NT. A must for the computer
user. $12.50 (Aust); $A15.95 NZ
(prices include P&P)
AA collection
collection of
of the
the “most
“most asked
asked for”
for”
Test
Test Equipment
Equipment projects
projects and
and features
features
from
from the
the pages
pages of
of Australia’s
Australia’s “most
“most
asked
asked for”
for” electronics
electronics magazine.
magazine.
Exceptional
Exceptional value
value at
at $13.20
$13.20 (Aust);
(Aust);
$A15.95
$A15.95 NZ
NZ (prices
(prices include
include p&p).
p&p).
Want one of these two books FREE? Subscribe to SILICON CHIP and we’ll give you one! See page 53 for subscription order form.
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ANALOG ELECTRONICS..................................................$85.00
AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN...............................$89.00
AUDIO ELECTRONICS.....................................................$85.00
EMC FOR PRODUCT DESIGNERS...................................$99.00
GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY............................$63.00
PIC - YOUR PERSONAL INTRODUCTORY COURSE........$43.00
TELEPHONE INSTALLATION HANDBOOK.......................$67.00
UNDERSTANDING TELEPHONE ELECTRONICS.................$65.00
VIDEO & CAMCORDER SERVICING/TECHNOLOGY........$67.00
VIDEO SCRAMBLING/DESCRAMBLING..........................$79.00
POWER SUPPLY COOKBOOK..........................................$93.00
M'CONTROLLER PROJECTS IN C FOR 8051..................$69.00
ANALOG CIRCUIT TECHNIQUES WITH DIGITAL INT......$69.00
ANTENNA TOOLKIT.........................................................$83.00
INTERFACING WITH C.....................................................$63.00
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES..................................$59.00
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Silicon Chip
Back Issues
200W Inverter; 0.5W Audio Amplifier; 3A 40V Adjustable Power Supply; Engine Management, Pt.5; Airbags In Cars – How They Work.
March 1994: Intelligent IR Remote Controller; 50W (LM3876)
Audio Amplifier Module; Level Crossing Detector For Model
Railways; Voice Activated Switch For FM Microphones; Engine
Management, Pt.6.
April 1989: Auxiliary Brake Light Flasher; What You Need to Know
About Capacitors; 32-Band Graphic Equaliser, Pt.2.
Ultrasonic Switch For Mains Appliances; The Basics Of A/D & D/A
Conversion; Plotting The Course Of Thunderstorms.
May 1989: Build A Synthesised Tom-Tom; Biofeedback Monitor
For Your PC; Simple Stub Filter For Suppressing TV Interference.
October 1991: Build A Talking Voltmeter For Your PC, Pt.1;
SteamSound Simulator For Model Railways Mk.II; Magnetic
Field Strength Meter; Digital Altimeter For Gliders, Pt.2; Military
Applications Of R/C Aircraft.
July 1989: Exhaust Gas Monitor; Experimental Mains Hum Sniffers;
Compact Ultrasonic Car Alarm; The NSW 86 Class Electrics.
September 1989: 2-Chip Portable AM Stereo Radio Pt.1; High
Or Low Fluid Level Detector; Studio Series 20-Band Stereo
Equaliser, Pt.2.
November 1991: Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.1; A Junkbox
2-Valve Receiver; Flashing Alarm Light For Cars; Digital Altimeter
For Gliders, Pt.3; Build A Talking Voltmeter For Your PC, Pt.2.
April 1994: Sound & Lights For Model Railway Level Crossings; Discrete Dual Supply Voltage Regulator; Universal Stereo Preamplifier;
Digital Water Tank Gauge; Engine Management, Pt.7.
May 1994: Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries; Induction Balance Metal
Locator; Multi-Channel Infrared Remote Control; Dual Electronic
Dice; Simple Servo Driver Circuits; Engine Management, Pt.8.
June 1994: 200W/350W Mosfet Amplifier Module; A Coolant Level
Alarm For Your Car; 80-Metre AM/CW Transmitter For Amateurs;
Converting Phono Inputs To Line Inputs; PC-Based Nicad Battery
Monitor; Engine Management, Pt.9.
October 1989: FM Radio Intercom For Motorbikes Pt.1; GaAsFet
Preamplifier For Amateur TV; 2-Chip Portable AM Stereo Radio, Pt.2.
December 1991: TV Transmitter For VCRs With UHF Modulators;
Infrared Light Beam Relay; Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.2;
Index To Volume 4.
November 1989: Radfax Decoder For Your PC (Displays Fax, RTTY
& Morse); FM Radio Intercom For Motorbikes, Pt.2; 2-Chip Portable
AM Stereo Radio, Pt.3; Floppy Disk Drive Formats & Options.
March 1992: TV Transmitter For VHF VCRs; Thermostatic Switch
For Car Radiator Fans; Coping With Damaged Computer Directories;
Valve Substitution In Vintage Radios.
January 1990: High Quality Sine/Square Oscillator; Service Tips
For Your VCR; Phone Patch For Radio Amateurs; Active Antenna
Kit; Designing UHF Transmitter Stages.
April 1992: IR Remote Control For Model Railroads; Differential
Input Buffer For CROs; Understanding Computer Memory; Aligning
Vintage Radio Receivers, Pt.1.
February 1990: A 16-Channel Mixing Desk; Build A High Quality
Audio Oscillator, Pt.2; The Incredible Hot Canaries; Random Wire
Antenna Tuner For 6 Metres; Phone Patch For Radio Amateurs, Pt.2.
June 1992: Multi-Station Headset Intercom, Pt.1; Video Switcher For
Camcorders & VCRs; IR Remote Control For Model Railroads, Pt.3;
15-Watt 12-240V Inverter; A Look At Hard Disk Drives.
March 1990: Delay Unit For Automatic Antennas; Workout Timer
For Aerobics Classes; 16-Channel Mixing Desk, Pt.2; Using The
UC3906 SLA Battery Charger IC.
October 1992: 2kW 24VDC - 240VAC Sinewave Inverter; Multi-Sector Home Burglar Alarm, Pt.2; Mini Amplifier For Personal Stereos;
A Regulated Lead-Acid Battery Charger.
April 1990: Dual Tracking ±50V Power Supply; Voice-Operated
Switch With Delayed Audio; 16-Channel Mixing Desk, Pt.3; Active
CW Filter.
February 1993: Three Projects For Model Railroads; Low Fuel
Indicator For Cars; Audio Level/VU Meter (LED Readout); An Electronic Cockroach; 2kW 24VDC To 240VAC Sinewave Inverter, Pt.5.
November 1994: Dry Cell Battery Rejuvenator; Novel Alphanumeric Clock; 80-Metre DSB Amateur Transmitter; Twin-Cell
Nicad Discharger (See May 1993); How To Plot Patterns Direct
to PC Boards.
June 1990: Multi-Sector Home Burglar Alarm; Build A Low-Noise
Universal Stereo Preamplifier; Load Protector For Power Supplies.
March 1993: Solar Charger For 12V Batteries; Alarm-Triggered
Security Camera; Reaction Trainer; Audio Mixer for Camcorders;
A 24-Hour Sidereal Clock For Astronomers.
December 1994: Easy-To-Build Car Burglar Alarm; Three-Spot
Low Distortion Sinewave Oscillator; Clifford – A Pesky Electronic
Cricket; Remote Control System for Models, Pt.1; Index to Vol.7.
April 1993: Solar-Powered Electric Fence; Audio Power Meter;
Three-Function Home Weather Station; 12VDC To 70VDC Converter;
Digital Clock With Battery Back-Up.
January 1995: Sun Tracker For Solar Panels; Battery Saver For
Torches; Dolby Pro-Logic Surround Sound Decoder, Pt.2; Dual
Channel UHF Remote Control; Stereo Microphone Preamplifier.
June 1993: AM Radio Trainer, Pt.1; Remote Control For The Woofer
Stopper; Digital Voltmeter For Cars; Windows-Based Logic Analyser.
February 1995: 2 x 50W Stereo Amplifier Module; Digital Effects
Unit For Musicians; 6-Channel Thermometer With LCD Readout;
Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers, Pt.1; Oil Change Timer For
Cars; Remote Control System For Models, Pt.2.
July 1990: Digital Sine/Square Generator, Pt.1 (covers 0-500kHz);
Burglar Alarm Keypad & Combination Lock; Build A Simple Electronic Die; A Low-Cost Dual Power Supply.
August 1990: High Stability UHF Remote Transmitter; Universal
Safety Timer For Mains Appliances (9 Minutes); Horace The Electronic Cricket; Digital Sine/Square Generator, Pt.2.
September 1990: A Low-Cost 3-Digit Counter Module; Build A Simple Shortwave Converter For The 2-Metre Band; The Care & Feeding
Of Nicad Battery Packs (Getting The Most From Nicad Batteries).
October 1990: The Dangers of PCBs; Low-Cost Siren For Burglar
Alarms; Dimming Controls For The Discolight; Surfsound Simulator;
DC Offset For DMMs; NE602 Converter Circuits.
July 1993: Single Chip Message Recorder; Light Beam Relay
Extender; AM Radio Trainer, Pt.2; Quiz Game Adjudicator; Windows-Based Logic Analyser, Pt.2; Antenna Tuners – Why They
Are Useful.
August 1993: Low-Cost Colour Video Fader; 60-LED Brake Light Array; Microprocessor-Based Sidereal Clock; Satellites & Their Orbits.
July 1994: Build A 4-Bay Bow-Tie UHF TV Antenna; PreChamp
2-Transistor Preamplifier; Steam Train Whistle & Diesel Horn Simulator; 6V SLA Battery Charger; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.10.
August 1994: High-Power Dimmer For Incandescent Lights;
Microprocessor-Controlled Morse Keyer; Dual Diversity Tuner
For FM Microphones, Pt.1; Nicad Zapper (For Resurrecting Nicad
Batteries); Electronic Engine Management, Pt.11.
September 1994: Automatic Discharger For Nicad Battery Packs;
MiniVox Voice Operated Relay; Image Intensified Night Viewer; AM
Radio For Weather Beacons; Dual Diversity Tuner For FM Microphones, Pt.2; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.12.
October 1994: How Dolby Surround Sound Works; Dual Rail Variable
Power Supply; Build A Talking Headlight Reminder; Electronic Ballast
For Fluorescent Lights; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.13.
March 1995: 2 x 50W Stereo Amplifier, Pt.1; Subcarrier Decoder
For FM Receivers; Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers, Pt.2;
IR Illuminator For CCD Cameras; Remote Control System For
Models, Pt.3.
November 1990: Connecting Two TV Sets To One VCR; Build An Egg
Timer; Low-Cost Model Train Controller; 1.5V To 9V DC Converter;
Introduction To Digital Electronics; A 6-Metre Amateur Transmitter.
September 1993: Automatic Nicad Battery Charger/Discharger; Stereo Preamplifier With IR Remote Control, Pt.1; In-Circuit Transistor
Tester; +5V to ±15V DC Converter; Remote-Controlled Cockroach.
April 1995: FM Radio Trainer, Pt.1; Photographic Timer For Dark
rooms; Balanced Microphone Preamp. & Line Filter; 50W/Channel
Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2; Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers, Pt.3;
8-Channel Decoder For Radio Remote Control.
January 1991: Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries, Pt.1; Have Fun With
The Fruit Machine (Simple Poker Machine); Build A Two-Tone Alarm
Module; The Dangers of Servicing Microwave Ovens.
October 1993: Courtesy Light Switch-Off Timer For Cars; Wireless
Microphone For Musicians; Stereo Preamplifier With IR Remote
Control, Pt.2; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.1.
May 1995: Build A Guitar Headphone Amplifier; FM Radio Trainer,
Pt.2; Transistor/Mosfet Tester For DMMs; A 16-Channel Decoder
For Radio Remote Control; Introduction to Satellite TV.
March 1991: Transistor Beta Tester Mk.2; A Synthesised AM Stereo
Tuner, Pt.2; Multi-Purpose I/O Board For PC-Compatibles; Universal
Wideband RF Preamplifier For Amateur Radio & TV.
November 1993: High Efficiency Inverter For Fluorescent Tubes;
Stereo Preamplifier With IR Remote Control, Pt.3; Siren Sound Generator; Engine Management, Pt.2; Experiments For Games Cards.
June 1995: Build A Satellite TV Receiver; Train Detector For Model
Railways; 1W Audio Amplifier Trainer; Low-Cost Video Security
System; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter For Models, Pt.1.
May 1991: 13.5V 25A Power Supply For Transceivers; Stereo Audio
Expander; Fluorescent Light Simulator For Model Railways; How
To Install Multiple TV Outlets, Pt.1.
December 1993: Remote Controller For Garage Doors; Build A
LED Stroboscope; Build A 25W Audio Amplifier Module; A 1-Chip
Melody Generator; Engine Management, Pt.3; Index To Volume 6.
July 1995: Electric Fence Controller; How To Run Two Trains On
A Single Track (Incl. Lights & Sound); Setting Up A Satellite TV
Ground Station; Build A Reliable Door Minder.
July 1991: Loudspeaker Protector For Stereo Amplifiers; 4-Channel
Lighting Desk, Pt.2; How To Install Multiple TV Outlets, Pt.2; Tuning
In To Satellite TV, Pt.2.
January 1994: 3A 40V Variable Power Supply; Solar Panel Switching
Regulator; Printer Status Indicator; Mini Drill Speed Controller; Stepper Motor Controller; Active Filter Design; Engine Management, Pt.4.
August 1995: Fuel Injector Monitor For Cars; Gain Controlled
Microphone Preamp; Audio Lab PC-Controlled Test Instrument,
Pt.1; How To Identify IDE Hard Disk Drive Parameters.
September 1991: Digital Altimeter For Gliders & Ultralights;
February 1994: Build A 90-Second Message Recorder; 12-240VAC
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September 1995: Railpower Mk.2 Walkaround Throttle For Model
Railways, Pt.1; Keypad Combination Lock; The Vader Voice; Jacob’s
Ladder Display; Audio Lab PC-Controlled Test Instrument, Pt.2.
October 1995: 3-Way Loudspeaker System; Railpower Mk.2
Walkaround Throttle For Model Railways, Pt.2; Build A Fast Charger
For Nicad Batteries.
November 1995: Mixture Display For Fuel Injected Cars; CB Trans
verter For The 80M Amateur Band, Pt.1; PIR Movement Detector.
December 1995: Engine Immobiliser; 5-Band Equaliser; CB Transverter For The 80M Amateur Band, Pt.2; Subwoofer Controller;
Knock Sensing In Cars; Index To Volume 8.
January 1996: Surround Sound Mixer & Decoder, Pt.1; Magnetic
Card Reader; Build An Automatic Sprinkler Controller; IR Remote
Control For The Railpower Mk.2; Recharging Nicad Batteries For
Long Life.
April 1996: Cheap Battery Refills For Mobile Phones; 125W Audio
Amplifier Module; Knock Indicator For Leaded Petrol Engines;
Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter; Pt.3.
May 1996: Upgrading The CPU In Your PC; High Voltage Insulation
Tester; Knightrider Bi-Directional LED Chaser; Simple Duplex
Intercom Using Fibre Optic Cable; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.3.
June 1996: BassBox CAD Loudspeaker Software Reviewed; Stereo
Simulator (uses delay chip); Rope Light Chaser; Low Ohms Tester
For Your DMM; Automatic 10A Battery Charger.
July 1996: Build A VGA Digital Oscilloscope, Pt.1; Remote Control
Extender For VCRs; 2A SLA Battery Charger; 3-Band Parametric
Equaliser; Single Channel 8-Bit Data Logger.
August 1996: Introduction to IGBTs; Electronic Starter For Fluores
cent Lamps; VGA Oscilloscope, Pt.2; 350W Amplifier Module;
Masthead Amplifier For TV & FM; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.4.
September 1996: VGA Oscilloscope, Pt.3; IR Stereo Headphone
Link, Pt.1; High Quality PA Loudspeaker; 3-Band HF Amateur Radio
Receiver; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.5.
October 1996: Send Video Signals Over Twisted Pair Cable; Power
Control With A Light Dimmer; 600W DC-DC Converter For Car Hifi
Systems, Pt.1; IR Stereo Headphone Link, Pt.2; Build A Multi-Media
Sound System, Pt.1; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter, Pt.8.
November 1996: 8-Channel Stereo Mixer, Pt.1; Low-Cost
Fluorescent Light Inverter; Repairing Domestic Light Dimmers;
Multi-Media Sound System, Pt.2; 600W DC-DC Converter For Car
Hifi Systems, Pt.2.
December 1996: Active Filter Cleans Up Your CW Reception; A Fast
Clock For Railway Modellers; Laser Pistol & Electronic Target; Build
A Sound Level Meter; 8-Channel Stereo Mixer, Pt.2; Index To Vol.9.
January 1997: How To Network Your PC; Control Panel For Multiple Smoke Alarms, Pt.1; Build A Pink Noise Source; Computer
Controlled Dual Power Supply, Pt.1; Digi-Temp Monitors Eight
Temperatures.
January 1998: Build Your Own 4-Channel Lightshow, Pt.1 (runs off
12VDC or 12VAC); Command Control System For Model Railways,
Pt.1; Pan Controller For CCD Cameras.
February 1998: Multi-Purpose Fast Battery Charger, Pt.1;
Telephone Exchange Simulator For Testing; Command Control
System For Model Railways, Pt.2; Build Your Own 4-Channel
Lightshow, Pt.2.
April 1998: Automatic Garage Door Opener, Pt.1; 40V 8A Adjustable
Power Supply, Pt.1; PC-Controlled 0-30kHz Sinewave Generator;
Build A Laser Light Show; Understanding Electric Lighting; Pt.6.
May 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.1; Build A 3-LED Logic
Probe; Automatic Garage Door Opener, Pt.2; Command Control
For Model Railways, Pt.4; 40V 8A Adjustable Power Supply, Pt.2.
June 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.2; Universal High Energy
Ignition System; The Roadies’ Friend Cable Tester; Universal Stepper
Motor Controller; Command Control For Model Railways, Pt.5.
July 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.3; 15-W/Ch Class-A
Audio Amplifier, Pt.1; Simple Charger For 6V & 12V SLA Batteries; Automatic Semiconductor Analyser; Understanding Electric
Lighting, Pt.8.
August 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.4 (Adding Extra Memory); Simple I/O Card With Automatic Data Logging; Build A Beat
Triggered Strobe; 15-W/Ch Class-A Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2.
September 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.5; A Blocked Air-Filter
Alarm; Waa-Waa Pedal For Guitars; Jacob’s Ladder; Gear Change
Indicator For Cars; Capacity Indicator For Rechargeable Batteries.
October 1998: Lab Quality AC Millivoltmeter, Pt.1; PC-Controlled
Stress-O-Meter; Versatile Electronic Guitar Limiter; 12V Trickle
Charger For Float Conditions; Adding An External Battery Pack
To Your Flashgun.
August 1997: The Bass Barrel Subwoofer; 500 Watt Audio Power
Amplifier Module; A TENs Unit For Pain Relief; Addressable PC Card
For Stepper Motor Control; Remote Controlled Gates For Your Home.
September 1997: Multi-Spark Capacitor Discharge Ignition;
500W Audio Power Amplifier, Pt.2; A Video Security System For
Your Home; PC Card For Controlling Two Stepper Motors; HiFi
On A Budget.
October 1997: Build A 5-Digit Tachometer; Add Central Locking
To Your Car; PC-Controlled 6-Channel Voltmeter; 500W Audio
Power Amplifier, Pt.3; Customising The Windows 95 Start Menu.
November 1997: Heavy Duty 10A 240VAC Motor Speed Controller;
Easy-To-Use Cable & Wiring Tester; Build A Musical Doorbell;
Replacing Foam Speaker Surrounds; Understanding Electric
Lighting Pt.1.
December 1997: Speed Alarm For Cars; 2-Axis Robot With Gripper; Stepper Motor Driver With Onboard Buffer; Power Supply
For Stepper Motor Cards; Understanding Electric Lighting Pt.2;
Index To Vol.10.
www.siliconchip.com.au
September 2000: Build A Swimming Pool Alarm; An 8-Channel PC
Relay Board; Fuel Mixture Display For Cars, Pt.1; Protoboards – The
Easy Way Into Electronics, Pt.1; Cybug The Solar Fly.
October 2000: Guitar Jammer For Practice & Jam Sessions;
Booze Buster Breath Tester; A Wand-Mounted Inspection Camera;
Installing A Free-Air Subwoofer In Your Car; Fuel Mixture Display
For Cars, Pt.2.
November 2000: Santa & Rudolf Chrissie Display; 2-Channel Guitar
Preamplifier, Pt.1; Message Bank & Missed Call Alert; Electronic
Thermostat; Protoboards – The Easy Way Into Electronics, Pt.3.
December 2000: Home Networking For Shared Internet Access;
Build A Bright-White LED Torch; 2-Channel Guitar Preamplifier, Pt.2
(Digital Reverb); Driving An LCD From The Parallel Port; Build A
Morse Clock; Protoboards – The Easy Way Into Electronics, Pt.4;
Index To Vol.13.
January 2001: How To Transfer LPs & Tapes To CD; The LP Doctor
– Clean Up Clicks & Pops, Pt.1; Arbitrary Waveform Generator;
2-Channel Guitar Preamplifier, Pt.3; PIC Programmer & TestBed.
March 2001: Making Photo Resist PC Boards; Big-Digit 12/24 Hour
Clock; Parallel Port PIC Programmer & Checkerboard; Protoboards –
The Easy Way Into Electronics, Pt.5; A Simple MIDI Expansion Box.
January 1999: High-Voltage Megohm Tester; Getting Started With
BASIC Stamp; LED Bargraph Ammeter For Cars; Keypad Engine
Immobiliser; Improving AM Radio Reception, Pt.3.
April 2001: A GPS Module For Your PC; Dr Video – An Easy-To-Build
Video Stabiliser; Tremolo Unit For Musicians; Minimitter FM Stereo
Transmitter; Intelligent Nicad Battery Charger.
March 1999: Getting Started With Linux; Pt.1; Build A Digital
Anemometer; Simple DIY PIC Programmer; Easy-To-Build Audio
Compressor; Low Distortion Audio Signal Generator, Pt.2.
May 2001: Powerful 12V Mini Stereo Amplifier; Two White-LED
Torches To Build; PowerPak – A Multi-Voltage Power Supply;
Using Linux To Share An Internet Connection, Pt.1; Tweaking
Windows With TweakUI.
April 1999: Getting Started With Linux; Pt.2; High-Power Electric
Fence Controller; Bass Cube Subwoofer; Programmable Thermostat/
Thermometer; Build An Infrared Sentry; Rev Limiter For Cars.
June 2001: Fast Universal Battery Charger, Pt.1; Phonome – Call,
Listen In & Switch Devices On & Off; L’il Snooper – A Low-Cost
Automatic Camera Switcher; Using Linux To Share An Internet
Connection, Pt.2; A PC To Die For, Pt.1 (Building Your Own PC).
May 1999: The Line Dancer Robot; An X-Y Table With Stepper
Motor Control, Pt.1; Three Electric Fence Testers; Heart Of LEDs;
Build A Carbon Monoxide Alarm; Getting Started With Linux; Pt.3.
July 1999: Build A Dog Silencer; 10µH to 19.99mH Inductance
Meter; Build An Audio-Video Transmitter; Programmable Ignition
Timing Module For Cars, Pt.2; XYZ Table With Stepper Motor
Control, Pt.3.
July 1997: Infrared Remote Volume Control; A Flexible Interface
Card For PCs; Points Controller For Model Railways; Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.2; An In-Line Mixer For Radio Control Receivers.
August 2000: Build A Theremin For Really Eeerie Sounds; Come
In Spinner (writes messages in “thin-air”); Proximity Switch For
240VAC Lamps; Structured Cabling For Computer Networks.
December 1998: Engine Immobiliser Mk.2; Thermocouple Adaptor
For DMMs; Regulated 12V DC Plugpack; Build A Poker Machine,
Pt.2; Improving AM Radio Reception, Pt.2; Mixer Module For
F3B Gliders.
March 1997: Driving A Computer By Remote Control; Plastic Power
PA Amplifier (175W); Signalling & Lighting For Model Railways;
Build A Jumbo LED Clock; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.7.
June 1997: PC-Controlled Thermometer/Thermostat; TV Pattern
Generator, Pt.1; Audio/RF Signal Tracer; High-Current Speed
Controller For 12V/24V Motors; Manual Control Circuit For
Stepper Motors.
July 2000: A Moving Message Display; Compact Fluorescent
Lamp Driver; El-Cheapo Musicians’ Lead Tester; Li’l Powerhouse
Switchmode Power Supply (1.23V to 40V) Pt.2.
February 2001: How To Observe Meteors Using Junked Gear; An
Easy Way To Make PC Boards; L’il Pulser Train Controller; Midi-Mate
– A MIDI Interface For PCs; Build The Bass Blazer; 2-Metre Elevated
Groundplane Antenna; The LP Doctor – Clean Up Clicks & Pops, Pt.2.
June 1999: FM Radio Tuner Card For PCs; X-Y Table With Stepper
Motor Control, Pt.2; Programmable Ignition Timing Module For
Cars, Pt.1; Hard Disk Drive Upgrades Without Reinstalling Software?
May 1997: Neon Tube Modulator For Light Systems; Traffic Lights For
A Model Intersection; The Spacewriter – It Writes Messages In Thin
Air; A Look At Signal Tracing; Pt.2; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.9.
June 2000: Automatic Rain Gauge With Digital Readout; Parallel
Port VHF FM Receiver; Li’l Powerhouse Switchmode Power Supply
(1.23V to 40V) Pt.1; CD Compressor For Cars Or The Home.
November 1998: The Christmas Star; A Turbo Timer For Cars;
Build A Poker Machine, Pt.1; FM Transmitter For Musicians; Lab
Quality AC Millivoltmeter, Pt.2; Improving AM Radio Reception, Pt.1.
February 1997: PC-Controlled Moving Message Display; Computer
Controlled Dual Power Supply, Pt.2; Alert-A-Phone Loud Sounding
Telephone Alarm; Control Panel For Multiple Smoke Alarms, Pt.2.
April 1997: Simple Timer With No ICs; Digital Voltmeter For Cars;
Loudspeaker Protector For Stereo Amplifiers; Model Train Controller;
A Look At Signal Tracing; Pt.1; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.8.
IBM Scan-Codes To ASCII); 50A Motor Speed Controller For Models.
August 1999: Remote Modem Controller; Daytime Running Lights
For Cars; Build A PC Monitor Checker; Switching Temperature
Controller; XYZ Table With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.4; Electric
Lighting, Pt.14.
September 1999: Autonomouse The Robot, Pt.1; Voice Direct
Speech Recognition Module; Digital Electrolytic Capacitance Meter; XYZ Table With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.5; Peltier-Powered
Can Cooler.
October 1999: Build The Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.1;
Semiconductor Curve Tracer; Autonomouse The Robot, Pt.2; XYZ
Table With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.6; Introducing Home Theatre.
November 1999: Setting Up An Email Server; Speed Alarm For
Cars, Pt.1; LED Christmas Tree; Intercom Station Expander; Foldback Loudspeaker System; Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.2.
December 1999: Solar Panel Regulator; PC Powerhouse (gives
+12V, +9V, +6V & +5V rails); Fortune Finder Metal Locator; Speed
Alarm For Cars, Pt.2; Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.3;
Index To Vol.12.
January 2000: Spring Reverberation Module; An Audio-Video Test
Generator; Build The Picman Programmable Robot; A Parallel Port
Interface Card; Off-Hook Indicator For Telephone Lines.
February 2000: Multi-Sector Sprinkler Controller; A Digital Voltmeter For Your Car; An Ultrasonic Parking Radar; Build A Safety
Switch Checker; Build A Sine/Square Wave Oscillator.
March 2000: Resurrecting An Old Computer; Low Distortion
100W Amplifier Module, Pt.1; Electronic Wind Vane With 16-LED
Display; Glowplug Driver For Powered Models; The OzTrip Car
Computer, Pt.1.
May 2000: Ultra-LD Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2; Build A LED Dice (With
PIC Microcontroller); Low-Cost AT Keyboard Translator (Converts
July 2001: The HeartMate Heart Rate Monitor; Do Not Disturb
Telephone Timer; Pic-Toc – A Simple Alarm Clock; Fast Universal
Battery Charger, Pt.2; A PC To Die For, Pt.2; Backing Up Your Email.
August 2001: Direct Injection Box For Musicians; Build A 200W
Mosfet Amplifier Module; Headlight Reminder For Cars; 40MHz
6-Digit Frequency Counter Module; A PC To Die For, Pt.3; Using
Linux To Share An Internet Connection, Pt.3.
September 2001: Making MP3s – Rippers & Encoders; Build Your
Own MP3 Jukebox, Pt.1; PC-Controlled Mains Switch; Personal
Noise Source For Tinnitus Sufferers; The Sooper Snooper Directional
Microphone; Using Linux To Share An Internet Connection, Pt.4.
October 2001: A Video Microscope From Scrounged Parts; Build
Your Own MP3 Jukebox, Pt.2; Super-Sensitive Body Detector;
An Automotive Thermometer; Programming Adapter For Atmel
Microcomputers.
November 2001: Ultra-LD 100W RMS/Channel Stereo Amplifier,
Pt.1; Neon Tube Modulator For Cars; Low-Cost Audio/Video Distribution Amplifier; Short Message Recorder Player; Computer Tips.
December 2001: A Look At Windows XP; Build A PC Infrared Transceiver; Ultra-LD 100W RMS/Ch Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2; Pardy Lights
– An Intriguing Colour Display; PIC Fun – Learning About Micros.
January 2002: Touch And/Or Remote-Controlled Light Dimmer,
Pt.1; A Cheap ’n’Easy Motorbike Alarm; 100W RMS/Channel
Stereo Amplifier, Pt.3; Build A Raucous Alarm; Tracking Down
Computer Software Problems; Electric Power Steering; FAQs On
The MP3 Jukebox.
February 2002: 10-Channel IR Remote Control Receiver; 2.4GHz
High-Power Audio-Video Link; Assemble Your Own 2-Way Tower
Speakers; Touch And/Or Remote-Controlled Light Dimmer, Pt.2;
Booting A PC Without A Keyboard; 4-Way Event Timer.
PLEASE NOTE: November 1987 to March 1989, June 1989, August
1989, December 1989, May 1990, December 1990, February 1991,
April 1991, June 1991, August 1991, January 1992, February
1992, July 1992, August 1992, September 1992, November 1992,
December 1992, January 1993, May 1993, February 1996, March
1998 and February 1999 are now sold out. All other issues are
presently in stock. We can supply photostat copies (or tear sheets)
from sold-out issues for $7.70 per article (includes p&p). When
supplying photostat articles or back copies, we automatically supply
any relevant notes & errata at no extra charge. A complete index to
all articles published to date can be downloaded free from our web
site: www.siliconchip.com.au
March 2002 93
MARKET CENTRE
Cash in your surplus gear. Advertise it here in Silicon Chip.
CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING RATES
Advertising rates for this page: Classified ads: $20.00 (incl. GST) for up to 20
words plus 66 cents for each additional word. Display ads: $33.00 (incl. GST) per
column centimetre (max. 10cm). Closing date: five weeks prior to month of sale.
To run your classified ad, print it clearly in the space below or on a separate
sheet of paper, fill out the form & send it with your cheque or credit card details
to: Silicon Chip Classifieds, PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097. Or fax the details
to (02) 9979 6503.
Taxation Invoice ABN 49 003 205 490
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_____________ _____________ _____________ _____________ _____________
_____________ _____________ _____________ _____________ _____________
Enclosed is my cheque/money order for $__________ or please debit my
❏ Bankcard ❏
Visa Card ❏ Master Card
Card No.
Signature__________________________ Card expiry date______/______
Name ______________________________________________________
Street ______________________________________________________
Suburb/town ___________________________ Postcode______________
94 Silicon Chip
FOR SALE
TELEPHONE EXCHANGE SIMULATOR: test equipment without the cost of
telephone lines. Melb 9806 0110.
http://www.alphalink.com.au/~zenere
KITS KITS AND MORE KITS! Check
‘em out at www.ozitronics.com
AMAZING NEW Super Microphone
point and listen in 500m away $95.
Spy bug 1.2km range $49. Wireless
Spy Camera transmits clear picture to
TV within 200m $179. Tracking device
$89. Professional Bug Detector $269.
Camera with VCR, automatic recording,
20m cable, P/S and sensor ready to plug
and use only $480. GCS Electronics
(02) 4227 9933 gcses<at>aol.com; www.
gcselectronics.com
UNIVERSAL DEVICE PROGRAMMER: Low cost, high performance,
48-pin, works in DOS or Windows inc
NT/2000. $1320. Universal EPROM
programmer $429. Also adaptors, (E)
EPROM, PIC, 8051 programmers,
EPROM simulator and eraser.
Dunfield C Compilers: Everything you
need to develop C and ASM software
for 68HC08, 6809, 68HC11, 68HC12,
68HC16, 8051/52, 8080/85, 8086, 8096
or AVR: $198 each. Demo disk available.
ImageCraft C Compilers: 32-bit
Windows IDE and compiler. For AVR,
68HC11, 68HC12. $396.
Atmel Flash CPU Programmer: Handles the 89Cx051, 89C5x, 89Sxx in both
DIP and PLCC44 and some AVR’s, most
8-pin EEPROMS. Includes socket for
serial ISP cable. $220, $11 p&p. SOIC
adaptors: 20 pin $99, 14 pin $93.50, 8
pin $88.
Full details on web site. Credit cards
accepted.
GRANTRONICS PTY LTD, PO Box 275,
Wentworthville 2145. (02) 9896 7150 or
http://www.grantronics.com.au
WEATHER STATIONS: Windspeed &
direction, inside temperature, outside
temperature & windchill. Records highs
www.siliconchip.com.au
& lows with time and date as they occur.
Optional rainfall and PC interface. Used
by Government Departments, farmers,
pilots, and weather enthusiasts. Other
models with barometric pressure,
humidity, dew point, solar radiation,
UV, leaf wetness, etc. Just phone, fax
or write for our FREE catalogue and
price list. Solar Flair/Ecowatch phone:
(03) 5968 4863; fax: (03) 5968 5810,
PO Box 18, Emerald, Vic., 3782. ACN
006 399 480.
Audio, Video, S-Video and VGA cables
distribution amps, switchers, adaptors,
price lists at:
www.questronix.com.au
CCTV EQUIPMENT: Best prices
best-tange Cameras from $34. Digital
PC Video Recording Dial In/Out Software
& much more. www.allthings.com.au
Satellite TV Reception
International satellite
TV reception in your
home is now affordable.
Send for your free info
pack containing equipment catalog, satellite
lists, etc or call for appointment to view.
We can display all satellites from 76.5°
to 180°.
AV-COMM P/L, 24/9 Powells Rd,
Brookvale, NSW 2100.
Tel: 02 9939 4377 or 9939 4378.
Fax: 9939 4376; www.avcomm.com.au
Need prototype PC boards?
We have the solutions – we print electronics!
Four-day turnaround, less if urgent; Artwork from your own
positive or file; Through hole plating; Prompt postal service; 29
years technical experience; Inexpensive; Superb quality.
Printed Electronics, 12A Aristoc Rd,
Glen Waverley, Vic 3150.
Phone: (03) 9545 3722; Fax: (03) 9545 3561
Call Mike Lynch and check us out!
We are the best for low cost, small runs.
USB KITS: DDS-HF Generator, 4-channel Voltmeter, 10-Relay Card. Also Digital Oscilloscope and Temperature Loggers. http://www.ar.com.au/~softmark
ELECTRONICS RETAIL BUSINESS
FOR SALE. Premium dealer for national distributor plus extras. Solid, long
established family business with good
prospects and potential for considerable further growth. Main road position
near beach, excellent lease recently
renewed. Good income and comfortable lifestyle. Owners wish to retire.
Asking $95,000 + SAV. Phone (07) 5443
4290.
TV/VCR SERVICE BUSINESS. Well
established workshop located on
Queensland’s Sunshine Coast. Large
industrial premises on busy road. Excellent income and plenty of potential
www.siliconchip.com.au
•
•
•
•
•
6 Channels
10kHz frequency separation
Size: 55 x 23 x 20mm
Weight: 25gm
Modular Construction
Price: $A129.50 with crystal
Electronics
PO Box 580, Riverwood, NSW 2210.
Ph/Fax (02) 9533 3517
Positions At Jaycar
Buy Direct From Manufacturer
D.I.Y. PCB SUPPLIES
AFORDABLEWEB HOSTING from $11/
month, includes POP/WEB email. Other
plans available. Servers In A Box, sales<at>
siab.com.au; www.siab.com.au,
Phone (02) 4341 6555.
Mark22-SM
Slimline Mini FM R/C Receiver
email: youngbob<at>silvertone.com.au
Website: www.silvertone.com.au
RCS HAS MOVED to 41 Arlewis St,
Chester Hill 2162 and is now open,
with full production. Tel (02) 9738 0330;
Fax 9738 0334. rcsradio<at>cia.com.au;
www.cia.com.au/rcsradio
PCBs MADE, ONE OR MANY. Low
prices, hobbyists welcome. Sesame
Electronics (02) 9586 4771.
sesame<at>internetezy.com.au; http://
members.tripod.com/~sesame_elec
New New New
Pre Sensitized Copper Clad to
make your own boards.
Developer, Carbide Drills & Mills
also manufacturer of Single &
double sided boards.
Comprehensive details at
acetronics.com.au
goto shop page
ACETRONICS PCBs 5/32 Seton Rd
Moorebank NSW 2170
02 9600 6832 Fax: 02 9600 6834
Mail: acetronics<at>acetronics.com.au
Credit cards welcome
to expand. Over 3500 customers on
database, more than 50% are regular
clients. Fully stocked and well equipped
with test equipment. Owner had 6 weeks
off last year! Work only 5 days a week.
Suit husband/wife owners. Call (07)
5443 2388 or 0412 708 068.
EDDYSTONE 770R RX original condition, collectors item plus spare valves
$475 (08) 8347 4593.
MOTORBIKE ALARM KITS $49.50 +
P&H. Includes programmed micropro-
We are often looking for enthusiastic
staff for positions in our retail stores and
head office at Silverwater in Sydney. A
genuine interest in electronics is a necessity. Phone 02 9741 8555 for current
vacancies.
PCB DRILLING MACHINES BY P.E. PTY LTD
SINGLE SPINDLE. NC DRIVEN AND PROGRAMMABLE.
CAN ALSO BE USED FOR A VARIETY OF OTHER
DRILLING APPLICATIONS.
MADE IN AUSTRALIA.
For information brochure: Fax (03) 5971 1040;
Ph (03) 9545 3722 or (03) 5971 1041.
Wanted: we pay up to $60 for Circuit
Notebook contributions. Silicon Chip
Publications, PO Box 139, Collaroy, 2097.
cessor, quality sensor, PCB, heatshrink,
miscellaneous and tilt switch. Details at:
www.users.tpg.com.au/micwen
KIT ASSEMBLY
NEVILLE WALKER KIT ASSEMBLY
& REPAIR:
• Australia wide service
• Small production runs
• Specialist “one-off” applications
Phone Neville Walker (07) 3857 2752
Email: flashdog<at>optusnet.com.au
March 2002 95
Silicon Chip Binders
Keep your copies safe, secure and
always available with SILICON CHIP
binders: they’re cheap insurance!
Heavy board covers with
2-tone green vinyl covering
Advertising Index
Acetronics....................................95
REAL
VALUE
AT
Alltac International.......................75
PLUS P
&P
Allthings Sales & Services...........95
$12.95
Altronics.....................................IFC
Aust. Microelect. Network...............7
Av-Comm Pty Ltd.........................95
Each binder holds up to 14
issues so that you can include
catalogs
Dick Smith Electronics........... 26-29
eLabtronics..................................67
SILICON CHIP logo printed
in gold-coloured lettering on
spine & cover
Elan Audio....................................11
Price: $12.95 (includes GST)
plus $5.50 p&p each (available
Aust. only). Price includes GST.
Farnell Electronic Components....19
Evatco..........................................79
Grantronics..................................95
Order by phoning (02) 9979 5644 & quoting your credit card number;
or fax the details to (02) 9979 6503; or mail your order with cheque or
credit card details to Silicon Chip Publications, PO Box 139, Collaroy,
NSW 2097.
Harbuch Electronics.....................67
Hy-Q International........................75
Instant PCBs................................95
Jaycar ................................... 45-52
JED Microprocessors..............21,75
Kalex............................................89
Subscribe &
Get this FREE!*
Microgram Computers...................3
MicroZed Computers...................75
Oatley Electronics........................15
Printed Electronics...................... 95
*Australia only. Offer valid only while stocks last.
Polykom..................................... 4-6
THAT’S RIGHT – buy a 1- or 2-year subscription
to SILICON CHIP magazine and we’ll mail you a
free copy of “Computer Omnibus”.
Quest Electronics.........................75
Subscribe now by using the handy order form in this
issue or call (02) 9979 5644, 8.30-5.30 Mon-Fri
with your credit card details.
Robotic Education Products.........11
RCS Radio...................................95
RF Probes....................................75
RTN..............................................55
Silicon Chip Binders.....................96
Silicon Chip Bookshop........... 90-91
NOW
AVAILABLE
FROM
SC Computer Omnibus................96
SC EFI Tech Special................OBC
SC Electronics Testbench..........IBC
Silicon Chip Subscriptions...........53
www.siliconchip.com.au
Project Reprints
Limited Back Issues
Limited One-Shots
If you’re looking for a project from ELECTRONICS AUSTRALIA, you’ll find it at SILICON
CHIP! We can now offer reprints of all projects which have appeared in Electronics
Australia, EAT, Electronics Today, ETI or Radio, TV & Hobbies. First search the EA website
indexes for the project you want and then call, fax or email us with the details and your
credit card details. Reprint cost is $8.80 per article (ie, 2-part projects cost $17.60).
SILICON CHIP subscribers receive a 10% discount.
We also have limited numbers of EA back issues and special publications. Call for details!
visit www.siliconchip.com.au or www.electronicsaustralia.com.au
96 Silicon Chip
Silvertone Electronics..................95
Smart Fastchargers.....................89
Solar Flair/Ecowatch....................95
VAF Research.........................41,75
Wiltronics.................22,43,75,84,87
_____________________________
PC Boards
Printed circuit boards for SILICON
CHIP projects are made by:
RCS Radio Pty Ltd. Phone (02) 9738
0330. Fax (02) 9738 0334.
www.siliconchip.com.au
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