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December 2003 1
SILICON
CHIP
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Contents
Vol.16, No.12; December 2003
www.siliconchip.com.au
FEATURES
8 What You Need To Receive Weather Satellite Images
Interested in receiving weather satellite pictures? It’s now easier than ever,
provided you have a receiver and a PC fitted with a sound card – by Jim Rowe
14 A Self-Diagnostics Plug For Your Car
Many cars can tell you what’s wrong with them. All you have to do is ask but
first, you need a plug – by Julian Edgar
60 PC Board Design Tutorial, Pt.3
Final article looks at multi-layer boards and describes how to lay out a board
that can be manufactured – by David L. Jones
68 SPLat Controls microPLCs
Looking for an embedded control module for your product? Take a look at the
range of “microPLCs” from Splat Controls– by Peter Smith
VHF Receiver For
Weather Satellites – Page 18.
PROJECTS TO BUILD
18 VHF Receiver For Weather Satellites
Build this compact 2-channel VHF FM receiver and pull in your own weather
satellite pictures – by Jim Rowe
34 Linear Supply For Luxeon 1W Star LEDs
Simple circuit lets you run one or more Luxeon 1W Star LEDs from a 12V DC
supply. It uses low-cost parts and allows for dimming as well – by Peter Smith
70 MiniCal 5V Meter Calibration Standard
Check your DMMs accuracy and then calibrate it using this low-cost, easy-tobuild voltage reference – by Barry Hubble
Linear Power Supply For Luxeon
1W Star LEDs – Page 34.
74 PIC-Based Car Battery Monitor
Don’t get caught with a flat battery. This simple circuit allows you to monitor
battery condition and will warn you when it’s about to die – by Alan Bonnard
76 The PICAXE, Pt.9: Keyboards 101
Build a PS2 to RS-232 converter and send data from a keyboard to a remote
terminal or LCD display via a 2-wire interface – by Stan Swan
SPECIAL COLUMNS
40 Serviceman’s Log
Turn it upside down to fix it – by the TV Serviceman
56 Circuit Notebook
MiniCal 5V Meter Calibration
Standard – Page 70.
(1) Simple 6-Input Alarm Circuit; (2) Courtesy Light Extender; (3) Battery
Replacement Power Supply; (4) Automatic Headlight Reminder; (5) Speed
Alarm For Cars
80 Vintage Radio
The AWA PF car radio & the Ferris Tranimate – by Rodney Champness
DEPARTMENTS
2
4
29
53
Publisher’s Letter
Mailbag
Order Form
Product Showcase
www.siliconchip.com.au
55
90
92
94
Silicon Chip Weblink
Ask Silicon Chip
Notes & Errata
Market Centre/Ad Index
PIC-Based Car
Battery Monitor –
Page 74.
December 2003 1
PUBLISHER’S LETTER
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Production Manager
Greg Swain, B.Sc.(Hons.)
Technical Staff
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Peter Smith
Ross Tester
Jim Rowe, B.A., B.Sc, VK2ZLO
Rick Walters
Reader Services
Ann Jenkinson
Advertising Enquiries
Leo Simpson
Phone (02) 9979 5644
Fax (02) 9979 6503
Regular Contributors
Brendan Akhurst
Rodney Champness, VK3UG
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Mike Sheriff, B.Sc, VK2YFK
Philip Watson, MIREE, VK2ZPW
Stan Swan
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2 Silicon Chip
Australian power stations
should be solar or gas-fired
With the recent NSW government rejection of
the proposed Redbank coal-fired power station
in the Hunter Valley, it is clear that we are going
to need some other solutions to our increasing
energy needs. Before too long in New South
Wales we are going to need some more power
stations, maybe in only a couple of years. After
all, we are not going to want to buy electricity
from other states, even presuming that they will
have any to spare.
There is at least one other coal-fired power
station proposal on the table, the one gigawatt plant at Ulan but given the
decision on Redbank, it is unlikely to go ahead. At least, we hope not. But
we need more thermal power stations otherwise we are going to have severe
power shortages in years to come. So if not coal-fired, what is available?
In the short term, the answer is gas-fired power stations as these have
considerable advantages over coal. First, we have an abundance of natural
gas and as well as selling it to China and elsewhere, we should be using it
ourselves to generate power. It does not have the enormous cost of extraction
associated with coal and it does not leave a huge scar on the landscape, as
with open-cut mines and drag-lines. Granted, a pipe-line is needed to get
the gas to the power station but even this has far less of an effect on the
environment than rail or road transportation.
But the real advantage of a gas-fired power station is the very big increase
in efficiency brought about by the high temperature of the gases used to drive
the gas turbines. After driving the turbines, there is still enough energy left
in the high temperature exhaust gases to drive a boiler and steam turbine.
Without going into thermodynamic theory, the efficiency is directly proportional to the difference between the heat source (ie, burning gas driving
the turbines) and the heat sink (ie, essentially ambient temperature). In a
gas-fired power station, the heat source temperature is much higher than in
a coal-fired station, hence efficiency is higher.
Not only that, the combustion products of water vapour and carbon dioxide
are benign compared to those of coal. Nor are there huge piles of ash to be
disposed of. So clearly, since we must have more thermal power stations,
they should only be run from natural gas.
In the long run though, we should be looking to solar power generation
on a large scale. This is a project for federal and state governments. Considering the typical price of a large power station, a billion dollars or more,
we could get a considerable solar generation industry off the ground in this
country for that sort of money.
The brief: build a 100 megawatt or bigger solar power station connected
to the grid. The solar arrays are pretty straightforward and the electronics
of the inverters needed to change DC to AC are hardly hi-tech these days
either. Then there would be high voltage step-up transformers and a switchyard, plus high voltage transmission lines to connect to the grid. None of
this is rocket science and after the first one was built, the following ones
would be easy.
So why not email or write to your local politician and help get the ball
rolling.
Leo Simpson
www.siliconchip.com.au
Need something more than just computers?
RFID & Finger Print Readers
Control access to your building and maintain
a record of all comings and goings. Virtually
any combination of Keypad PIN, RFID tag
and/or fingerprint reader can provide the level
of security you choose. Optional access
managment software allows control via an
Cat 1008142
RS232 or RS485 link to a PC. A similar model
provides the same facilities without the finger print reader.
Cat 1008142-7 RFID & Finger Print Reader/Controller $1,999
Cat 1008143-7 RFID Reader/Controller - LCD Display $549
$399
Cat 1008145-7 Access Control Software
USB Port Extender
Extends a USB 1.1 port up to
50m using Cat5 UTP cable.
Ideal for setting up low cost
web cams etc.
Cat 11666-7 USB Extender $149
Cat 11666
Dual Adapters
Adapter Dual Keyboard - PS/2
Cat 15091-7
Adapter Dual Keyboard - PS/2
$159
Connect a Keyboard and Mouse to Your Notebook via the USB
Cat 15094-7
Adapter Keyboard and Mouse - USB $159
Connect Two Monitors to Your Computer
Cat 15092-7
Adapter Dual Monitor - VGA
$265
Serial to Ethernet Converters
Internet enable your serial devices. Think of them
as a serial port extender - across the
room or across the world. Easily convert RS232, 422 or 485 to TCP/IP.
Cat 15141-7
1 Port
$259
Cat 15141
Cat 15142-7
2 Port
$349
Cat 15142
Cat 5448
Cat 15091
Cat 15094
Design, print and cut your own business
cards. Our kit consists of Business Card
Design Software, 50 sheets of high quality
business card paper (500 business cards)
and a business card cutting machine.
Cat 5448-7 Business Card Cutter $249
Cat 15092
All Aluminium SATA
Mobile Rack
Take your data home or put it in the
safe at night. This kit consists of a
5.25” mounting rack and a removable
tray for a 3.5” SATA hard disk.
Cat 6787-7
Mobile Rack HDD Frame
SATA RAID Controllers
Cat 6787
$139
Bar Code Slot Reader
An alternative to magnetic card readers (no
expensive card writer is required). Ideal for
club membership cards etc. Easily connects
Cat 8574
to a USB port.
Cat 8574-7
Bar Code Slot Reader USB Interface $*
External TV Box for LCD/CRT
Monitor
Cat 3525
Monitors have much higher stability and resolution
than a TV set. Capitalise on this by turning your
monitor into a TV
Cat 3525-7
TV Box for LCD/CRT Monitor
$239
Read bar codes without cords. Wirelessly transmit the bar
code back to your computer in real time. One base station
supports up to 16 laser guns. Great battery life with a lithium
ion rechargable battery.
Cat 1008144-7 Bar Code Laser Gun Scanner RF Link $1,699
Power over Ethernet (PoE) Kit
Cat 11392
$129
Keyboard/Video/Monitor (KVM) Switches
Use a single keyboard, monitor, and mouse, to control up to 16
computers! Save space, power & equipment. PS/2 or USB
models available. DVI models coming soon!
Talk to Your Technology
Tell your TV to change channel or turn on your
air conditioner. These voice activated infrared
controllers will do just that.
Cat 9180-7
Voice Activated Infrared
Controller
$239
Voice Activated Remote
Cat 9179-7
Cat 9179
$199
Close a Switch to Play a MacroThis
unit would be an ideal adjunct to the
Cat 8936
home/office web-based surveillance,
allowing switching from, say pressure mats, PIR detectors, window switches, etc. Would also have an immense number of
applications for people with varying disabilities where complex
commands could be executed at the “bump” of a switch.
Cat 8936-7
Keystroke Macro - USB
$299
3 Key Programmable Foot Pedal
Store multiple keystrokes at the tap of a
footswitch. See also Cat 8936 for
multiple macro’s.
Cat 1008044-7 Macro Foot Pedal
$399
Cat 1008044
Keyboard Macro Stick
Instantly install macro keys without reprogramming your
keyboard. Simply attach the
Macro Stick along the top of
Cat 15135
your keyboard and program
each of the 16 keys with up
to 1000 characters.
Cat 15135-7
Keyboard Macro Stick USB XKEY
$299
Programmable Keypads
Cat 8933-7
20 Key Programmable Keypad
$319
58 Key Programmable Keypad
$479
Cat 8935-7
Cat 8933
Cat 8935
Cat 2905
Get fast access to your data and
also the data security that RAID
provides. These controllers can be
configure for RAID 0, 1, 5, 10 and
JBOD.
Cat 2906-7
4 Channel SATA RAID
8 Channel SATA RAID
Cat 2905-7
Video Signal
Conditioner
$*
$649
5.8GHz Wireless
Cat 11419
Clean up video signals to provide a stable picture when
recording. It provides a bright steady picture on your TV.
Cat 3460-7
Video Signal Conditioner
$169
Cat 11416
Wireless LAN Amplifier
Boost the output of your base station to
the maximum allowed. Ideal for Wireless
ISPs. AGC maintains output at 500mW.
Enclosed in a weatherproof housing.
Cat 11416-7 Booster Amplifier
$729
A range of antenna and mini PCI cards
suitable for wireless LAN applications.
Cat 11421-7
16dBi 5.8GHz
$*
26 dBi 5.8GHz
$469
Cat 11419-7
Mini PCI adapter
Cat 11418-7
802.11a+g
$*
Omnidirectional Antenna
Cat 11420-7
11dBi 5.8GHz
$*
USB Watchdog Timer
RF Laser Bar Code Reader
Avoid running separate power cables to remote
ethernet devices. This sophisticated unit transmits power at 48 Volts DC to minimise the current.
This is then reduced to 5 Volts for the equipment.
Cat 11392-7
Power over Ethernet (PoE) Kit
Business Card Cutter
USB Macro Input
Devices
USB Christmas Tree
Get into the spirit of things this Christmas with
this great desk sized Christmas tree!
Cat 2909-7
USB Christmas Tree
$15
Cat 17084
Computer locked up? This USB connected
Watchdog Timer will automatically reboot it.
Cat 17084-7
USB Auto Reset - Watchdog
$199
Bar Code Laser Gun
A very competitivey priced laser bar code reader
with excellent performance - and it looks the part
too. It will interface as a keyboard wedge, USB or
Cat
1008039
serial device by simply changing the
configuration and the cable.
Cat 1008039-7 Bar Code Laser Gun
$399
Bar Code Laser Scanner
An even more economical laser scanner in
the style of a CCD scanner. It can be
easily changed from Keyboard Wedge to
USB by changing the cable and programming
the scanner setup.
Cat 8866-7
Bar Code Laser Scanner
Cat. 8866
$329
Omni-Directional Laser Scanner
Get the same bar code reading capability as the
big super markets! An affordable, vertically
mounted, small footprint, omni-directional
laser scanner.
It is ideally suited to
checkouts of all types, eg newsagents, convenience
stores etc.
Cat1008085-7
Omni-Directional Laser Scanner
$999
USB 2.0 Gear
USB 2.0 Card 5 Port PCI
480 Mbps
$65
PCMCIA ATA Card Reader
Cat 2843
The only USB 2.0 reader we know of that will
read full size PCMCIA ATA memory cards. Plus
it is a 6 in 1 card reader.
Cat 6785-7 Mem Card Rdr/Writer
$*
Cat
6785
More great gear including Cat 9153-7 USB 2.0 Active Extension Cable 5m
$33
$49
Cat 2865-7 USB 2.0 Card 3 Port PCI 480 Mbps
$59
Cat 2866-7 As above - Low Profile
$49
Cat 2875-7 USB 2.0 Hub 4 Port
$69
Cat 2904-7 USB 2.0 Hub 7 Port
$59
Cat 9154-7 USB 2.0 to USB Cable (PC to PC)
xD Card Reader
8 in one - Will read and write eight different cards including xD,
Cat 6786-7 Mem Card Rdr/Wrtr xD USB 2.0
$*
Cat 2843-7
Cat 2865
Cat 6786
Cat 2875
Cat 9154
Cat 9153
* New Arrivals - see website for current prices
Thin Client Terminals! We’ve got them for Serial, Ethernet, Windows Based and Linux applications
MicroGram Computers
Ph: (02) 4389 8444 FreeFax: 1800 625 777
Vamtest Pty Ltd trading as MicroGram Computers ABN 60 003 062 100,
info<at>mgram.com.au
1/14 Bon Mace Close, Berkeley Vale NSW 2261
All prices subject to change without notice. For current pricing visit our website. Pictures are indicative only.
See all these products & more on our website...www.mgram.com.au
SHOREAD/MGRM1203
Dealer inquiries
welcome
MAILBAG
AM stereo
website
Here is a website that is run by AM
stereo supporters:
www.amstereoradio.com
The site contains history and information about AM stereo and links
to where you can buy new AM stereo
capable CD and Mini Disc players. It
also tells you where you can buy AM
stereo conversion kits and you can
order a low-power AM stereo transmitter. Finally, you can also support the
petition about the scarce availability
of AM stereo radios to at least increase
the chances of making the AM band
into another high-fidelity solution in
the future besides FM.
Chris O’Reilly,
via email.
Analog computers
wanted
Years ago, I was involved with the
now dead technology of analog/hybrid
computers, without which at the time,
events like the Moon landing could not
have occurred. They essentially were
general-purpose scientific simulators
using op amp technology.
I am looking for any surviving examples of the smaller machines such as
the EAI TR20, TR48, 480 or 580 desktop systems which every university
and tech college used. Perhaps some
readers might also be able to put me
in touch with “analog” PC simulator
software. I would also like any recommendations on good electronic design
“freeware” for PCs.
Rod Cripps,
60 Herbert Street,
Parkdale, Vic 3195.
Dodgy power cord
on vintage radio
I refer to the excellent articles on
Vintage Radio by Rodney Champness.
Page 90 of the August 2003 edition
shows a radio with a 2-wire power
cord. I would like to suggest that an
approved 3-wire cord should be installed as part of the restoration of a
mains-operated radio. Besides being a
safety feature this could be mandatory
under local regulations.
4 Silicon Chip
The electrolytic capacitors in this set
would be nearly 50 years old. Again
I would suggest it would be prudent
to replace these as a matter of course
with new ones.
Ted Baker,
Bathurst, NSW.
Comment: we have spoken to Rodney
Champness and he agrees that he normally would have changed the cord in
the course of restoration.
Valve preamp
welcomed
Congratulations on the excellent
article on the valve preamp in the November issue. I cut my teeth on valve
circuitry and realise the extensive
amount of research that must have
gone into the design.
Hopefully the valve exponents
will be satisfied. It is of little comfort
to realise that an op amp equivalent
would have taken up about half of
the magazine space, used a lot less
room, given much better distortion
figures, produced very little heat and
not needed the high tension voltage.
Chris Potter,
Kilsyth, Vic.
Query on valve
amplifier distortion
That was an interesting article you
published for a valve preamplifier
circuit in the November issue, especially the B+ supply for it. As far as the
distortion performance goes, haven’t
there been valve power amps with
similar performance (Williamson 15W
<at> 0.1%) since the late 1940s?.
Mark Harriss,
via email.
Comment: both the Williamson amplifier and the Mullard 10/10 in the
sixties claimed 0.1% or less and Quad,
McIntosh and a few others would
probably have made similar claims.
However, it is doubtful whether that
would have applied over the full frequency range and up to full power.
Running a Luxeon 1W star
from 3.6V
I love your LED torch projects! I
have been playing around with the 1W
Luxeon. In my case, I wanted a light,
long-life headlamp for bushwalking
and camping. It needed to throw a
long beam to illuminate the track and
also a less intense beam for cooking
and other camp activities.
Initially, I thought of the Picaxe.
Using PWM and a transistor to drive
the LED and a variable resistor to set
the output seemed to be the answer. I
found that I was limited to either four
rechargeable AAA cells or three alkaline ones as a suitable power source
because of the Picaxe’s peculiarities. In
the result, I had a clumsy unit that only
just drove the Luxeon at 350mA. I also
had an unreliable wired PC board that
failed at the most inopportune times
(eg, when I was perched on a ledge).
I gave up on that idea and drove the
Luxeon directly off my Mobile phone
battery (3.6V Li-Ion rechargeable).
This works well and the battery drives
the LED at full power when needed.
I added a small white LED (drawing
20mA) for use in camp.
Your “best torch project” has made
me aware that the heatsink I used was
probably overkill and I will grind it
down to reduce the size of my unit.
Henry Berenson,
Macgregor, ACT.
Loves the
valve preamp
I loved the valve preamp. I’m now
looking forward to a series of “Little
Jim” radios with 3S4 audio valves and
67.5V “B” batteries which takes a week
of wages to pay for!
It is great to see SILICON CHIP is moving ahead with the times.
Dick Smith,
Terrey Hills, NSW.
www.siliconchip.com.au
It may be ancient technology but these old ex-NSWGR CPH rail motors are now
fitted with up-to-date high-brightness LED assemblies for use as marker lights.
24V LED lights up
vintage rail-motor
I was a little amused to read the reply
to a query on the “Ask Silicon Chip”
pages in the October 2003 issue. This
stated that it is impractical to operate
your LED stop lights from 24V.
Just to set the picture, I belong to
the Rail Motor Society which operates
restored NSWGR CPH rail motors
commercially. At times, we park
our vehicles in refuge rail sidings at
stations when we stop for the night
– Katoomba being one example. The
signalmen like to see a red marker
light displayed on the vehicle facing
the outgoing road.
To operate our normal marker lights,
which use 24V 25W GLS lamps, we
could take over 12 amp-hours from our
batteries over night. On cold Katoomba
winter mornings, that much off the battery capacity can lead to great starting
ELAN Audio
The Leading Australian Manufacturer
of Professional Broadcast Audio Equipment
difficulties. So when I saw your LED
stop lights in the March 2003 issue, I
had the solution.
I made up the units using high
intensity white LEDs from Oatley
Electronics. These require about 3.5V
at 20mA. To achieve this, from our 24V
nominal supply, I used 430Ω resistors
for each group of four. This gave the
current I required and the resistors
each dissipate about 0.2W. I also made
up one light with high intensity red 2V
LEDs operating at 26mA Each resistor
in that unit only absorbed 0.4W, a total
of 1.2W.
Our standard marker light normally
has a BC lamp. So I used a normal BC
adapter as the base for the LED array.
The only catch was that I had to re-orient each lamp holder and adjust the
polarity so that the LED array, when
facing outwards (the only logical placing), had the correct polarity.
2 Steel Court South Guildford
Western Australia 6055
Phone 08 9277 3500
Fax
08 9478 2266
email poulkirk<at>elan.com.au
www.elan.com.au
RMA-02
Studio Quality
High Power
Stereo Monitor
Amplifier
Designed for Professional Audio Monitoring during Recording and Mastering Sessions
The Perfect Power Amplifier for the 'Ultimate' Home Stereo System
For Details and Price of the RMA-02 and other Products, Please contact Elan Audio
www.siliconchip.com.au
December 2003 5
Mailbag: continued
The standard marker light has a red
glass filter that can be swung across
and behind the lens when the lower
handle is rotated. I made one lower
marker (which is not now used for
any standard indication) a dedicated
redlight only. But after that, I made
them all with white LEDs and we use
the red filter glass when we require a
red light (at the rear of the train).
Everyone is amazed at the results.
The penetration of the white LEDs
is more visible than from a standard
incandescent filament. When the red
filter glass is moved across, the result
is also brilliant.
The others think I am a genius but
it is easy to copy someone else. Thank
you for a great idea.
Jim Lowe,
Heatherbrae, NSW.
Comment: your idea of using white
LEDs is great but we still stick to what
we said in the October issue because
you have to allow for the very considerable rise in temperature in taillight assemblies on hot summer days,
particularly when the lights (brakes or
otherwise) are on for long periods.
Alternative to paint stripper
Congratulations on the October project “A Dirt Cheap High-Current Bench
Supply”, using a PC power supply. Can
we have more articles on the reuse of
old computer bits?
There is an alternative to paint stripper for ungluing the ferrite transformer. The tape around the outside of the
transformer can usually be removed
with a knife. Ten minutes in boiling
water will soften the glue, maybe 15
minutes for a larger transformer.
Peter Reed,
via email.
Digital TV farce
Like many of your readers, I’ve been
following the “progress” of Digital TV
broadcasting, albeit with the somewhat jaundiced eye of someone from
the other side of the TV lens.
Over the years, I have been a somewhat harsh critic of “Those Who
Would Reform Our TV Systems” (basically from the “Curmudgeon-Who6 Silicon Chip
Actually-Knows” viewpoint), mostly
irritated by the grossly over-stated
benefits of adopting various proposals,
combined with the invariably grossly
understated cost and inconvenience
of adopting them! The worst example
of this would have to be the BMAC
system.
When the first Digital TV transmissions were demonstrated about 10
years ago, I thought: “At last! Something with real benefits for both the
broadcaster and end user!”
Well, it took the various broadcasting authorities a while but they’ve
managed the almost impossible feat of
messing up the introduction of Terrestrial Digital Television. To my mind,
what should have happened is that
all the current analog channels would
have been simulcast on a special narrow band of frequencies, perhaps at the
top of the existing UHF band.
Think of the advantages: because of
the narrow bandwidth, you could use
a low-cost, compact, highly sensitive
and highly directional UHF antenna.
Instead, we have this absurd idea
of fitting them in among existing TV
channels, both VHF and UHF. “But,”
they said, “you can use your existing
antenna!”
As we now know, this is mostly rubbish. I know quite a few people with
digital set-top boxes and the only ones
who could get all the digital channels
straight off are the ones who get perfect
analog reception anyway! I got some
of them to work by resorting to the old
installers’ trick of carrying an antenna
around the outside of the house, looking for a “sweet spot”. But this was
still an extremely tedious procedure,
because you had to locate what seemed
like a likely spot with an ordinary TV
set first and then see if the digital tuner
would tune in ALL the channels there,
and quite often it wouldn’t.
So in the vast majority of cases, it
pretty much looks like you’re not going
to get Digital TV without a revamped
antenna installation anyway and so
the UHF narrow band option would
have cost about the same and given
far better results.
No doubt you’ve seen the recent
news stories that Berlin has now
switched off its analog TV transmissions and this is being touted as a
triumph for Digital TV and the techno-savvy of the Germans and so on.
Actually, the vast majority of Berliners are still watching analog TV, now
delivered by cable! The reality is that
about 83% of Berlin households are
connected to cable TV which carries
both free-to-air and cable channels.
There are some digital cable services
but most of them are analog, similar
to Foxtel here. Most of the people
without access to cable are welfare
recipients, so the government has provided such people with set-top boxes
for free or heavily subsidised.
I would love to know how this is
working in practice, since a lot of “low
rent” viewers tend to use “rabbit ear”
type antennas, which simply will not
work with digital transmissions. Most
people would rather a “ghosty” picture
than no picture but Digital doesn’t give
you that option!
There are a lot of other aspects
that get glossed over too. Very few
households these days have just the
one TV set and many have more than
one VCR. Each one of these is going
to need a set-top box and again, most
people only have a proper antenna
connection in the lounge, relying on
pop-up antennas for bedroom sets and
so on, so there are more sets that will
be effectively put out of action.
I also think that digital set-top boxes
are still ludicrously overpriced, considering what’s in them. I can see in a
few years’ time that the average TV set
will simply have a standard antenna
socket and an ordinary VHF/UHF
tuner module with a separate Digital
IF and decoder section. There’s not
going to be any “revolution” in viewer
habits; people who just want an elcheapo no-frills TV from K-Mart will
still be able to get one but capable of
receiving Digital TV.
Keith Walters,
via email.
A long-overdue kick-along
for digital TV?
A US appeals court has recently
upheld federal regulations requiring
television set manufacturers to install
tuners that can receive high-quality
digital broadcast signals in new sets
www.siliconchip.com.au
starting next summer. The Federal
I’m assuming that our standard is
Communications Commission in Au- different from the US one? That was
gust 2002 ordered that digital tuners the way it was going last time I paid
be included in new sets as part of an attention. Well, that’s my opinion
effort to jump-start the lagging transi- anyway, always supposing they don’t
tion to digital television, targeted for try making region-locked TVs and
completion by 2007 but likely to be add region coding to prevent greydelayed.
marketing.
The Consumer Electronics AssociaCongratulations on the excellent
tion, which represents manufacturers LED torch in the November issue; I
such as Sony and LG Electronics hope there’s a kit available soon from
which owns Zenith, had challenged someone. Unfortunately, also a big
the rules, arguing that the FCC lacked HISS-BOO at the valve preamp. Even
the authority to impose such a require- if anyone is sad enough to build it, it
ment and that the order was arbitrary will have been a sorry waste of paper
and capricious.
and ink, in my opinion.
LG might own the Zenith brandPaul Turner,
name but there hasn’t been domestic
Burwood, NSW.
(US) TV manufacture in a many years
since the Japanese and Taiwanese Multi-element TV antennas:
wiped them out. No wonder the courts are they a con?
don’t give a hoot if it inconveniences
On the 25th October, parts of Sydney
the manufacturers and impacts their were hit by a massive hailstorm. I live
profits.
out near Penrith and we copped the
The interesting thing is that by mak- full brunt of it.
ing it compulsory and due to the size
Fortunately, my house sustained
of the US market, they will be making only minor damage, the worst being
digital TVs by the millions. That will to the TV antenna. This is what’s
bring the cost down to where any oth- interesting. Because we’re a long way
er standard will be infeasible to start from the Artarmon transmitters, somemanufacture and we’ll probably all end
thing other than the usual “suburban”
up using these sets worldwide.
installation is needed. But rather than
I don’t think the small digital take- putting up a huge mast, I decided to try
up in Australia will hold back the using a “deep fringe” antenna, on an
flood of a cheaper standard and the ordinary mast. This worked pretty well
providers (studios) will need to be except for snowy reception on SBS.
compatible with overseas formats,
I then tried a separate “96-element
BITSCOPE ADwithout
9/10/03
PM as
Page deep
1
preferably
such1:38
hacks
fringe” UHF-only job. That didn’t
standards converters.
make a lot of difference with the Syd-
ney SBS transmitter but I found that
by pointing it at Wollongong, I could
get a much better version of SBS, plus
quite usable reception of their UHF
versions of 2,7,9 & 10.
Well, the interesting thing is that
after the storm, the antennas were a bit
of a mess! One of the UHF antenna’s
two back-screens were on the ground,
along with most of its directors. The
VHF antenna had lost its two big
VHF I reflector rods and most of its
other elements were twisted around
like a tornado had hit it. But when I
tried turning on the TV, I found that
it worked almost as well as it did
before!
So what is all that fancy-looking
ironmongery for? It smells to me like
somebody’s just making a fairly ordinary antenna and “decorating” it with
a lot of fiddly bits that don’t do very
little! But how do you tell a “real”
antenna from a fake, without actually
putting it up on mast?
Adrian Kerwitz,
via email.
Comment: without comprehensive test
equipment, a shielded anechoic (to
RF) room or an antenna test facility,
it is impossible to fully characterise
any antenna, particularly one that is
designed to cover a wide frequency
range. The fact that your setup shows
little change is no indication, since
your TV has AGC to compensate for
differing signal levels and the stations
you watch may not be affected by the
missing or damaged elements.
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December 2003 7
By JIM ROWE
Artist’s impression of a
NOAA weather satellite
(Courtesy Lockheed-Martin
Missiles & Space).
What you need to
receive weather
satellite images
Interested in receiving the images broadcast by orbiting weather
satellites? It’s now easier than ever, as long as you have a reasonably
up-to-date PC fitted with a sound card. In this article, we explain
how weather satellites work and tell you what you’ll need to receive
their images. And elsewhere in this issue, we describe a weather
satellite receiver that you can build yourself.
Y
ES, IT’S TRUE that you can
see weather satellite images (or
computer enhanced graphics
derived from them) on the TV evening
news and you can also download images of “special weather events” like
cyclones from sites on the Internet.
But there’s nothing quite like the satisfaction of receiving them yourself
directly from the satellites, as many
radio amateurs and other enthusiasts
have been doing for decades. And as
it happens, this is now a lot easier to
do than it has ever been before.
Only a few years ago, you not only
needed a suitable receiver and antenna
to receive the weather satellite signals
but a special decoder box as well,
8 Silicon Chip
before the signals could be displayed
on a PC (using a specially written
program). But now, providing your
PC is reasonably up to date and has a
decent sound card, the decoder box is
no longer needed. Instead, you simply
feed the audio signals from the receiver
into your sound card and record them
on your hard disc.
That done, they can be decoded
and displayed in one operation, using
software that’s freely available on the
Internet.
So if you’d like to try your hand at
receiving weather satellite signals,
it’s now all fairly straightforward and
can be done at low cost (provided you
already have a PC).
In this article, we’ll give you a quick
introduction to weather satellites, describe how they work and describe the
kind of receiver, antenna and masthead
amplifier you’ll need to receive their
signals. We’ll also discuss the kind of
PC you’ll need and tell you about some
of the software that’s available to both
track the weather satellites (so that you
can be prepared when one comes within range) and then decode their signals
after you’ve received them.
About weather satellites
Weather satellites have been orbiting
the Earth for over 43 years now, providing valuable information on the world’s
weather and other environmental
www.siliconchip.com.au
This false-colour picture from NOAA17 shows extensive cloud cover over the
southeastern corner of Australia. The vertical band at far left shows the sync
pulses, while the adjacent vertical black band carries the minute markers (this
picture was received over a period of about five minutes). The vertical band
at far right represents undecoded telemetry data, which conveys the status of
various systems on-board the satellite.
events on a 24-hour basis. The first of
these satellites was Tiros 1, launched
by NASA for the US National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration
(NOAA) in April 1960. Since then,
there has been not only a continuous
series of NOAA satellites but also many
broadly similar satellites launched by
the former USSR, Japan, India and the
People’s Republic of China.
So you mightn’t have been aware
of them but at any time in the last
few decades there have been quite a
number of weather satellites orbiting
above us and sending down a constant
stream of images and other meteorological data.
There are still quite a few satellites
in orbit, although some of them (like
the Russian Meteors) seem to have
reached the end of their operating life
and are no longer sending down any
pictures. But there are still at least two
fully operating NOAA satellites, for
example, providing weather images
at least twice and sometimes three or
four times a day virtually anywhere
in the world.
By the way, there are two rather
different types of weather satellite.
www.siliconchip.com.au
One type are in equatorial orbits (ie,
around the Equator) at an altitude of
about 35,800km, so they rotate in synchronism with the Earth itself and are
therefore described as “geostationary”.
Each of these satellites constantly
views a fixed “disc” of the Earth, with
its centre point on the equator directly
below it.
Signals from a geostationary satellite
can be received continuously from
anywhere inside its field of view.
However, receiving their signals isn’t
easy because they only transmit in the
UHF S-band (typically at 1.691GHz)
and the signals are quite weak because
they’re coming from so far away. You
need a fairly large dish antenna with
a low noise down-converter (LNC) just
for a start.
The other kind of weather satellites
are in close to polar orbits (ie, passing
over the poles) and orbit at a much
lower altitude – ie, around 850km.
In other words, they’re “Low-Earth
Orbiting” or “LEO” satellites and
each circles the Earth many times a
day and passes over (or at least near)
Fig.1: an APT transmission line starts with a sync pulse burst. This is
followed by an 11.3ms section allocated to “space data” and minute
markers, then a 218.5ms section with 909 pixels of image data from the
Channel A sensor, and then 10.8ms of telemetry data. This 250ms-long
data format is then repeated for the Channel B sensor.
December 2003 9
This is another false colour picture from NOAA17, this time received over a
period of about seven minutes and showing a large part of eastern Australia
extending from the Gulf of Carpentaria down to Tasmania. The sudden change
in the picture towards the bottom is a result of turning up the RF gain control on
the receiver at this point during signal reception.
any particular point a couple of times
a day.
The NOAA satellites are of this type
and typically orbit the Earth about 14.1
times a day, or about once every 102
minutes. For example, the NOAA17
satellite currently passes over New
Zealand and Australia a number of
times during each morning, while
the NOAA12 satellite passes over a
number of times in the late afternoon
or early evening.
Since these satellites “precess”, or
slowly move around the Earth as they
orbit, their “passes” don’t follow the
same path every time. However, there
is usually at least one pass (and sometimes two or three passes) by each satellite that can be received each day, to
provide interesting weather pictures.
Another big bonus with the LEO
satellites is that they not only transmit
weather images in the UHF band (usually on 1.698GHz or 1.707GHz) but also
in the VHF band on frequencies such
as 137.50MHz and 137.62MHz. And
although you need a steerable dish and
LNC to track the satellites and receive
their UHF signals, the VHF signals
are much easier to receive. For VHF,
all you need is a fixed antenna with a
roughly hemispherical reception char10 Silicon Chip
acteristic, plus a masthead amplifier
and a suitable VHF receiver.
So the polar orbiting LEO weather
satellites are of much greater interest to
amateur weather satellite enthusiasts,
because their VHF signals are a lot easier to receive. And NOAA’s satellites 12,
15 and 17 are of particular interest at
present, because they’re the ones that
are currently in operation.
The NOAA satellites
The latest generation of NOAA satellites are fairly large “birds”, powered
from a large solar cell array which
is attached to one end (see artist’s
drawing). They are equipped with
quite a range of scanning and sensing
subsystems, including microwave and
IR sounders, an alpha particle sensor
and the main source of meteorological
images: the Advanced Very High Res
olution Radiometer/3, or “AVHRR/3”
for short.
The data from these sensors is
transmitted back to Earth (along with
housekeeping telemetry data) via a
number of communications links. In
fact, each NOAA satellite has no less
than 14 antennas, nine transmitters
and various receivers (for receiving
command data).
The AVHRR/3 is mounted at the
opposite end of the satellite from the
solar array. It is a continuous imager,
which uses a rotating mirror scanning
system to scan the path beneath the
orbiting satellite in “lines” which are
perpendicular to the path and stretching from the horizon on one side to
the other.
The scanning mirror rotates at
120RPM, giving 120 lines per minute
– chosen because as the satellite moves
in its orbit, this provides the vertical
deflection, so each scanning line butts
against the last for contiguous scanning. The radiometer’s sensors have
quite a small field of view (1.3 x 1.3
milliradians, or about .075° x .075°)
and the sensor outputs are sampled on
the spacecraft at a rate of 39.936kHz,
so there are essentially 2048 samples
per sensor per scanned line.
There are a total of six sensors
in the AVHRR/3 radiometer, three
scanning at visible wavelengths near
the infrared and three at thermal IR
wavelengths. The outputs from any
five of these sensors can be transmitted back to Earth at any time on the
UHF (1.7GHz) channel. However, the
satellite’s APT (automatic picture
transmission) signals provided on
VHF (137.5MHz or 137.62MHz consist
of down-sampled versions of the signals from two of the AVHRR/3 sensors,
selected by commands uplinked from
NOAA’s control centres.
During the part of each satellite’s
orbit that is in daylight, each APT
line contains data from one visible
light sensor and one IR sensor. By
contrast, at night the visible light
data is replaced by data from a second IR sensor to provide more useful
information.
The down-sampled APT data derived from the two selected AVHRR/3
sensors is converted back to analog
form and then used to amplitude
modulate a 2400Hz audio subcarrier,
together with synchronisation and
timing pulses and other telemetry
data. The 2400Hz subcarrier is then
frequency modulated onto the VHF
carrier signal, for transmission down
to Earth via a 5W FM transmitter and
helical antenna.
APT signal format
Fig.1 shows the basic format of the
signals conveyed in one APT transmission line (lasting 500ms). The line
starts with a sync pulse burst of seven
www.siliconchip.com.au
cycles of a 1040Hz square wave. This
is then followed by an 11.3ms section
allocated to “space data” and minute
markers, then a 218.5ms section with
909 pixels of image data from the
channel A sensor, and finally 10.8ms
of telemetry data.
The second half then starts with
a second sync pulse burst of seven
pulses at 832Hz, followed by a second
space data and minute marker section of 11.3ms. Then comes another
218.5ms section with 909 pixels of
image data from the channel B sensor and finally another 10.8ms of
telemetry data.
It’s this format that gives the signal a
characteristic “tick-tock” sound when
you listen to the received 2400Hz audio via a speaker or earphones.
Receiving antenna
The VHF APT signals from NOAA
satellites are strong enough not to
require a high-gain tracking antenna.
Instead, a low-gain fixed antenna can
be used, although it does need to have
a hemispherical or “flattened hemispherical” reception characteristic so
that it picks up the signals with much
the same sensitivity as the satellite
passes over.
Note that because the signals are
transmitted from the satellite via a
helical antenna, they are also righthand circularly polarised. This means
that the antenna must also be able
to pick up signals with this type of
polarisation.
There are three main types of receiving antenna which meet these
requirements: (1) the crossed-dipole
or “turnstile” antenna (either alone or
combined with a reflector to become
a turnstile/reflector); (2) the Lindenblad antenna; and (3) the quadrifilar
helix antenna or “QFHA”. Of these,
the QFHA probably gives the best
performance but is not easy to build
because it’s essentially a truncated
double helix.
The Lindenblad gives reasonable
performance but is still fairly difficult
to make because it consists of four
dipoles in a square array, with each
dipole tilted at 30°. It also doesn’t
perform well unless it’s mounted very
high off the ground and well away from
metal roofing.
In fact, the author built and tested
a Lindenblad antenna for the receiver described elsewhere in this issue
but after a lot of frustration, I finally
www.siliconchip.com.au
A crossed-dipole or “turnstile” antenna coupled to a masthead amplifier are
all that are required to “pull in” the signals from the NOAA satellites. Articles
describing how to build these items will be published in SILICON CHIP in the next
few months.
scrapped it and built a turnstile/reflector instead. This was quite easy to
make and also gives surprisingly good
reception at my location.
Now although the VHF NOAA signals are strong enough to be received
using this type of fixed antenna, they’re
still pretty weak. After all they’re coming from a 5W transmitter which is still
more than 800km away even when the
satellite is passing directly overhead.
The transmitting antenna is also propagating this power in a solid angle of
63°, so by the time it does reach the
ground below, the effective path loss
is quite high.
From a practical point of view, this
means that most VHF receivers simply
aren’t sensitive enough and don’t have
a good enough noise figure to give
good reception of the weather satellite signals by themselves. In short,
you also need a low-noise masthead
preamp, to boost the signals as close
to the antenna as possible – and certainly before they have to pass down
through any significant length of
coaxial cable to the receiver (which
introduces losses).
So as well as describing an easyto-build turnstile/reflector antenna
in coming months, we’ll also be de-
scribing a suitable masthead preamp.
Stay tuned!
The receiver
Since the NOAA signals are in
the 137MHz VHF band and use FM,
you’d expect that almost any VHF
communications receiver or scanner
would be suitable for receiving them.
However, while it’s true that you can
receive them reasonably well with
some receivers, the results are often
disappointing.
That’s mainly because the 2400Hz
satellite subcarrier signal is modulated
with an FM deviation of ±17kHz, so
it has a bandwidth of about ±25kHz.
This bandwidth is quite a bit wider
than that used for narrow-band VHF
FM communications but at the same
time, it’s much narrower than that used
by broadcast FM stations. So a VHF
scanner or communications receiver
can’t be set to its narrow bandwidth,
because this is too narrow to receive
the signals without severe distortion.
Instead it must be set to WFM (wideband FM), even though this gives a
relatively low audio output level and
often a fairly poor signal-to-noise
ratio.
The ideal type of FM receiver to use
December 2003 11
Tracking And Decoding Software
As you’ve probably guessed already,
it’s the 2400Hz subcarrier “audio”
signal from the receiver that contains
the APT information as amplitude
modulation. As a result, it’s this signal
which is fed into your PC via the sound
card, to be initially stored on the hard
disk and then decoded and displayed
using the appropriate software.
PC requirements
WinOrbit 3.6 is a “predictive” freeware satellite tracking program that can be
downloaded from www.amsat.org/amsat/ftp/software This readout, taken
over a 2-hour period, shows the path and current location of NOAA17, with
the large circle indicating the satellite’s current field of view. The readout
also indicates the dark and sunlit areas of the Earth, as indicated by the
purple/red plot and the Sun symbol (ie, all areas in the middle of the “U”
were in darkness when this plot was made). The program can predict the
time of the next useful pass of the nominated satellite for a given location
and shows lots of other data as well.
You don’t need a particularly hot PC
to record and decode the APT signals.
Almost any reasonably up-to-date machine will do, as long as it’s running
Windows 98SE or better, has a sound
card and also has a reasonably fast
and capacious hard disk so you can
record mono audio signals sampled
at 11.025kHz (16 bits). Most Pentium
II, III and IV machines should be
quite suitable, as should many of the
machines using Celeron and Athlon
processors.
Of course, your PC also needs to
have a modem and an Internet connection, so you can get on the Internet
to download the software you’ll need
for both satellite tracking and weather
image decoding. You’ll also need the
Internet connection to download the
orbit update information for the satellites you want to track.
Tracking software
SatSignal V4.04 is a freeware APT decoder that works quite well. You can
download it from www.satellitescience.com or from www.satsignal.net
for the APT signals is one with a bandwidth of about ±30kHz, or not much
more. There are specially designed
weather satellite receivers with this
bandwidth available commercially
but they’re fairly expensive. Because
of this, we’ve developed a small
12 Silicon Chip
2-channel VHF FM receiver which has
a bandwidth of about ±35kHz and is
therefore quite suitable for receiving
the APT signals.
This receiver is described in this issue in a separate article, so that you can
build your own at a reasonable cost.
Because the polar-orbiting satellites
move in very well defined orbits, the
position of each one can be calculated at any time based on the so-called
Keplerian elements (orbit definition
parameters) for that satellite. This is
done by tracking software, which can
also predict when that satellite will
pass within your antenna’s field of
view, once it knows your longitude
and latitude. This calculation is done
completely “off line”; you don’t need
your weather satellite receiver to be
working.
There are quite a few freeware and
shareware satellite tracking programs
available on the Internet. We tested
and can recommend WinOrbit 3.6,
written by American radio amateur
Carl Gregory, K8CG. Once you provide
it with the orbital information on the
satellites you want to track, it can not
only plot their positions at any time on
a world map but also predict the next
useful pass of any nominated satellite
together with the local time, the satellite’s range and elevation and so on.
WinOrbit 3.6 is freeware, and you
www.siliconchip.com.au
Useful Websites
If you’d like to get some more information on weather satellites, or to download
some satellite tracking or decoding
software, here are some useful websites
and documents:
www.amsat.org
http://celestrak.com/NORAD/elements/
www.david-taylor.myby.co.uk/software/
www.drig.com
www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/2504/wx.htm
www.noaa.gov
www.ncdc.noaa.gov
http://www.ospo.noaa.gov/
www.riglib.demon.co.uk/index.htm
www.satellitescience.com
www.satsignal.net
http://sattrackhouston.com
www.telecable.es/personales/ealbcu/
kepsen.htm
http://www.time-step.com/products_
apt.htm
can download it as a single zipped
file (WINORB36.ZIP – 478KB) from
various sites, including www.amsat.
org/amsat/ftp/software However, we
plan to make a copy available on the
SILICON CHIP website, so look for it
there first.
Two other popular satellite tracking
programs are L. Hamilton’s “Footprint
V2.08” which can be downloaded from www.riglib.demon.co.uk/
footprint.htm and “WXTrack V3.4.0”
which is written by David Taylor
of Edinburgh, Scotland and can be
downloaded from his website at
www.satsignal.net
Which ever program you decide
to use, you’ll need to provide it with
the tracking data for the satellites you
want it to track (ie, their Keplerian
elements). This tracking data can be
downloaded as a text file from various
Internet sites. For example, you can
get the data for the NOAA satellites
from http://celestrak.com/NORAD/
elements – it comes as a text file
called “noaa.txt”. This is then simply
renamed with a “2li” extension instead
of “txt”, after which it can be used by
the tracking program.
Using the tracking program, you’ll
be able to find out when the satellite
www.siliconchip.com.au
you’re interested in will next be in
range. You’ll then be able to receive its
signal at the expected time and record
it on your PC’s hard disk using an
audio recording program. You can use
CoolEdit (which can be downloaded
from the Internet), for example, or
Creative Recorder which comes with
most Sound Blaster audio cards.
By the way, most weather satellite
decoding programs seem to want the
signals recorded as WAV files, in mono
(left channel), with 16-bit resolution
and a sampling rate of 11.025kHz. So
that’s the recording format to use and
it’s much more economical when it
comes to disk space than recording in
44.1kHz stereo.
APT decoding software
Once you have the signals recorded
on your hard disk, you can fire up the
decoding program and process them
to produce the actual images. So if
you don’t have a decoding program as
yet, the next step is to download one
of the freeware or shareware decoders
available on the Internet.
There are quite a few weather satellite decoding programs available for
free downloading; eg, from sites such
as www.satellitescience.com One of
the most popular programs is WXSAT
2.59e, written by Christian Bock. It’s
free for schools and private/amateur
use and has good documentation. It’s
also fairly easy to use, although sometimes it seems to have trouble decoding
signals where the subcarrier has been
Doppler shifted in frequency.
After testing several programs,
we eventually settled on SatSignal
V4.04, written by David Taylor. You
can download this program from
www.satellitescience.com or directly
from David Taylor’s own website at
www.satsignal.net All of the weather satellite images shown here were
decoded using SatSignal V4.04,
incidentally.
By now, you should have a good
understanding of how weather satellites work and how you can receive
images from them using a suitable
receiver, a PC and freeware software
from the Internet. If we’ve whetted
your appetite, the next step is to take
a look at the 2-Channel VHF Weather
Satellite Receiver described elsewhere
in this issue of SILICON CHIP. It’s easy
to build and will have you receiving
your own weather satellite pictures in
next to no time.
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December 2003 13
Trigger your car’s self-diagnostic fault codes
SELF DIAGNOSTICS PLUG
by Julian Edgar
F
or many years cars have logged
any faults that occur in their
engine management system.
The most advanced systems record
not only the fault, but also engine
operating conditions at the time the
fault occurred.
These systems normally need a dedicated data reader (eg a manufacturer’s
own service tool) to read them. But
nearly every car has a simpler way of
accessing these codes. By linking two
pins in the diagnostics plug, most cars
can be made to flash their diagnostic
codes on the dashboard Check Engine
light.
For example, two short flashes
followed by four longer flashes might
indicate the fault code number ‘24’,
and finding out what ‘24’ means is as
simple as looking up a service manual.
Even basic manuals have these codes
listed.
Cars sold or built in the United
States after January 1, 1996, use what’s
called an OBDII diagnostics system.
14 Silicon Chip
‘OBD’ stands for Onboard Diagnostics
and represents a standard that allows
certain engine data to be downloaded,
including fault codes.
(Well it’s kind of a standard – see
the ‘OBD – Oh Bloody Difficult?’
breakout box.)
The influence of the huge US market
is such that many cars sold in other
countries also have an OBDII socket
The plug inserted into an OBDII port. In this car the socket is located under the
steering column.
www.siliconchip.com.au
The OBDII plug comes with the pins
and shell separate. In this application
only two pins need to be used.
Here the wire link between the
two pins can be clearly seen. The
connections to the pins can be made
by soldering or crimping
The plug inserted into an OBDII port.
In this car the socket is located under
the steering column.
fitted. Many of the pins in the OBDII
socket aren’t used by the standard, so
most manufacturers also mount in the
same plug the pins that can be bridged
to trigger the trouble codes.
So, easy, huh? Just dive under the
dash, find the OBDII plug, check in a
workshop manual which pins need to
be bridged and….. er….
Yes, it’s not much fun trying to insert
the end of an unbent paper clip into the
socket pins while lying upside-down
under the dash, is it?
In fact, it would be damn easy to
bridge the wrong pins and potentially cause all sorts of catastrophic
damage…
And that’s where this very simple
idea comes in. Jaycar Electronics has
recently started selling an OBDII compatible plug. Which means that rather
than fiddling with a wire link, all that
you need to do is permanently wire the
connection in place inside the plug,
and when you want to trigger the fault
codes, simply plug it into the socket.
As mentioned, the last one is pretty
easy – even basic workshop manuals
list the fault codes, and the factory
workshop manual will normally go
into pages of detail on each code.
Good factory workshop manuals will
also help you out with the second
requirement – knowing which pins to
bridge to trigger the self-diagnostics.
These manuals are available at the
Whoa!
But let’s take a step back. For this
system of easily triggering fault codes
to work on your car you need three
things:
• A car with on an OBDII socket
• Access to the information about
which pins need to be connected to
trigger the fault codes
• Information about what those
fault codes mean
The OBDII connector is a 16-pin
design which uses these pin
placements.
www.siliconchip.com.au
“OBD” – Oh Bloody Difficult?
Of course the primary function of
the OBDII socket is to allow the transfer
of data. In fact, commercially available
readers exist that can display live engine
operating information – in addition to
fault codes – on a Windows CE or Palm
handheld, or a PC.
We’ve also seen kits for the adaptors
that will take the data out of the OBDII port
and allow you to display it in all kinds of
great ways.
So why aren’t we covering just such a
project here?
There are two main reasons.
Firstly, there is not just one OBDII
standard, but rather there are four different
standards. Many of the readers can work
with only one standard, although it must
be said, just a few will cope with all four.
But for us here in Australia, the major
difficulty is that many of our cars don’t
have OBDII compatibility. We can just imagine how happy you’d all be if we covered
a kit and when you built it, you found it
wouldn’t work with your car, despite the
fact that it had an OBDII port. And despite
the fact, even, that it had ‘OBDII’ written
on it and it said in the manual that it was
OBDII compatible...
It is a fact of life that many of the cars
sold in Australia aren’t fully compatible
with the OBDII standard.
It’s not required that cars sold here are
OBDII compliant and many manufacturers
don’t bother doing so. In the case of the
author’s 1998 Lexus LS400, for example,
despite the factory workshop manual
clearly claiming that the car was OBDII
compliant, and despite the fact that it had
OBDII written on the cover of the (OBDII)
socket, a commercial OBDII data reader
fails to work with the car.
Why? The software inside the ECU is
not compatible with OBDII!
In fact, in our experience there is a
range of Australian-delivered cars that
transmit at least some OBDII data (late
model Holden, Subaru, Mazda, Honda,
Porsche) and also a range of cars that do
not (Falcon, Peugeot, Lexus).
That’s the total sample that so far we’ve
looked at – many more cars will be in one
category or the other. There is simply no
way of telling whether the car is OBDII
compliant without plugging in a data reader
and seeing if it works.
That Mazda supports it and the Ford
Falcon does not is even more confusing,
since the companies now share much of
their engine management technology.
Note also that service departments
have no idea which of their cars are
OBDII compliant and which aren’t. They
just plug in their factory service tool and
away they go.
In the future it may be that more cars
in Australia will become OBDII compliant
(although there is a mooted OBDIII standard which might throw another spanner in
the works).
If OBDII – or a similar standard – is
mandated in Australia, we will then be
very interested in doing a data reader
project. Because when the OBDII data
stream is actually working, it’s fascinating
stuff indeed.
December 2003 15
ing wire between them and inserting
them into the right holes from the rear
of the plug (the pins will click into
place only if inserted with the correct
orientation).
Make sure that you view the plug
from the rear when selecting the
correct pins, as all workshop manuals show the view looking into the
socket!
Using It
In most cars the Check Engine light will flash out the fault codes. However, in
the case of the Lexus shown here, the actual fault code number is displayed.
service departments of car dealers and
also, in many cases, in the libraries
at TAFE colleges where automotives
is taught.
But the first step is to see if your car
has an OBDII socket. As mentioned,
that will only be the case if the car
was made after January 1, 1996. The
socket is legally required to be located
inside the cabin, and must be able to
be accessed without tools. (In practical terms, a small screwdriver may be
needed to lift an interior trim panel.)
Start off by looking under the dash,
behind the ashtray, under the glovebox, under the trim panel beneath
the handbrake and in similar places.
The 16-pin socket has a characteristic shape (wider at the top than the
bottom) and may be protected by a
push-on cover.
Once you’ve found it, see if you
can get the info on the pins that need
to be bridged – perhaps start with the
service department of the local new
car dealer.
Building It
As one of the simplest projects we’ve
ever covered, this part shouldn’t take
you long. The Jaycar plug (PP0720) is
provided with the pins and plug body
- you need to insert the pins into the
plug to form the assembled item.
To put the plug together it’s just a
case of separating two pins from the
strip to which they’re tied, soldering
or crimping a short insulated bridg-
In the case of the author’s Lexus
LS400, the workshop manual indicates
that fault code triggering will occur
if pins 13 and 4 are bridged. In this
car the codes are displayed in numeric form on the multifunction LCD
dash display – no flashes need to be
counted. So after the plug was wired
it was just a case of plugging it into
the OBDII socket and then following
the workshop manual’s instructions
to display the fault codes on the dashboard display.
After you’ve finished doing the fault
diagnosis, it’s easy to keep the plug in
the glovebox.
SC
The 1999 Hyundai Accent
Don’t think that you’ll find an OBDII
connector in just expensive cars. The
1999 Hyundai Accent has an OBDII
socket with its pins having the following functions:
Pin 1 – TCM
Pin 4 – Ground
Pin 7 – Engine
Pin 8 – ABS
Pin 12 – Airbag
Pin 14 – Vehicle Speed
Pin 15 – L-wire
Pin 16 – Battery +
This is straight out of the workshop
manual – no, we don’t know what
‘TCM’ is either. But we do know from
the manual that triggering the fault
codes requires these steps:
16 Silicon Chip
(1). Turn on ignition (do not start
car)
(2). Ground the L-wire in the data link
connector for 2.5 – 7 seconds
(3). If no fault is present, ‘4444’ will
be flashed on the Malfunction
Indicator Light (MIL is another
name for Check Engine Light)
(4). Each codes repeats until the
L-wire is again grounded, whereupon the next code appears
(5). ‘3333’ indicates the end of code
outputs
So for the Excel, Pin 15 needs to
be wired to Pin 4 in the OBD plug.
Then just insert the plug for about
five seconds to start the fault diagnosis process, with up to 21 fault codes
then available.
Auterra (www.auterraweb.com)
make an excellent general-purpose
OBDII reader that works with
Palm OS devices. Here the ignition
timing advance and airflow meter
mass flow are being read live from
a Holden Astra Turbo on a Treo
270 smartphone. However, many
Australian-delivered cars are not
OBDII compatible, despite often
having an OBDII port.
www.siliconchip.com.au
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1-300 797 007
■ INTERNET
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MERRY CHRISTMAS FROM EVERYONE AT ALTRONICS!
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T 2492
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50
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FREEBIE! Buy the
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get a free can of gas valu
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Stay charged up on the road!
Portable 12V battery charger plugs
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A 0286
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flame
T 2480
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issue of Silicon Chip magazine.
Or phone 1300 797 007 for latest information.
Extend your
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VHF
Receiver
VHF Receiver
For
Weather
Satellite
For Weather
Satellites
Here’s a compact, low-cost 2-channel VHF
FM receiver for pulling in weather satellite
signals in the 137-138MHz band. It has good
sensitivity and adjustable RF gain, combined
with the correct bandwidth for weather
satellite APT signals. You can also operate it
from either a plugpack or a 12V battery, for
greater flexibility.
By JIM ROWE
W
HILE YOU CAN use a
standard VHF scanner or
communications receiver to
pick up weather satellite signals, the
results are often disappointing. The
reason for this is that most scanners
and communications receivers only
provide a choice of two bandwidth
settings for VHF FM reception: “narrow” and “wide”. The narrow setting
18 Silicon Chip
gives a bandwidth of ±15kHz or less,
which is fine for NBFM reception.
However, it is too narrow for undistorted reception of the weather satellite signals which need a bandwidth
of at least ±25kHz.
By contrast, the wide bandwidth
setting usually gives a bandwidth of
about ±100kHz, so this is the setting
that must be used. Unfortunately, this
is really too wide for weather satellite
signals and, as a result, the demodulated audio level is relatively low. At
the same time, the wider reception
bandwidth allows more noise through,
so the signal-to-noise ratio can become
quite poor.
In short, for best results you really need a receiver with an effective
bandwidth of ±30kHz, or not much
more. This type of specialised VHF
receiver is available but they are not
very thick on the ground and those
that are available are fairly pricey.
Hence the motivation for developing
the low-cost weather satellite receiver
described here.
As you can see from the photos, the
receiver is built into a very compact
plastic instrument box. All of the circuitry is mounted on a double-sided
PC board, so it’s quite easy to build. It
has switch tuning between two preset
frequency channels, for ease of use.
There are RF Gain, Audio Muting and
Audio Gain controls and the receiver
www.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: block diagram of the Philips SA605D low-power FM mixer and IF
system. It contains a local oscillator (LO) transistor, a balanced mixer,
a high gain IF amplifier and IF limiter, a received signal strength (RSSI)
detector, an FM quadrature detector and an audio muting circuit.
can drive a small monitor speaker or
headphones, as well as providing a
line level signal to feed into your PC
for recording and decoding.
The sensitivity is quite respectable,
at about 0.7µV for 12dB of quieting. At
the same time, the effective bandwidth
is approximately ±35kHz, which is
quite suitable for weather satellite
reception.
Bear in mind though that for good
reception of these signals, you really
need to use a masthead preamp as
well. The receiver provides 12V DC at
the antenna connector, for “phantom
powering” such a preamp. We’ll describe a matching preamp in the third
of these articles, along with an easy to
build turnstile/reflector antenna for
137.5/137.62MHz.
Circuit description
At the heart of the receiver is
an SA605D IC, which is described
by Philips as a high-performance
low-power FM mixer and IF system.
www.siliconchip.com.au
As you can see from the block diagram
of Fig.1, it contains a local oscillator
transistor and balanced mixer, plus a
high-gain IF amplifier and IF limiter,
a received signal strength (RSSI) detector, an FM quadrature detector and
finally an audio muting circuit.
The local oscillator transistor can
operate at frequencies up to about
500MHz in an LC circuit, or up to
150MHz with a suitable crystal. The
mixer can operate up to 500MHz as
well, while the IF amplifier and limiter
can operate up to about 25MHz with a
combined gain of about 90dB.
That’s not bad when you consider
it’s all packed inside a 20-pin small
outline SMD package!
Fig.2 shows the complete circuit
details. In this receiver, we’re using
the SA605D in a fairly conventional
single-conversion superhet configuration, with the IF amplifier and limiter
working at 5.5MHz. This allows us
to take advantage of high selectivity
5.5MHz TV sound IF ceramic filters
to provide most of our bandwidth
shaping. The two filters in question are
CF1 and CF2, which are both Murata
SFT5.5MA devices.
As shown in Fig.2, CF1 is connected
between the mixer output and the IF
amplifier input, while CF2 is connected between the IF amplifier output
and the limiter input. The resistors
connected to the filter inputs and
outputs are mainly for impedance
matching, while the 10nF capacitors
are for DC blocking. The 90° phase
shift required for IC1’s quadrature FM
Main Features
•
•
•
•
•
Two presettable channels in
the 137-138MHz band
Sensitivity: 0.7µV for 12dB of
quieting
Bandwidth: ±35kHz (approx.)
Plugpack or battery powered
Provides 12V DC phantom
power to power a masthead
amplifier
detector is provided by coil L4 and its
parallel 390pF capacitor, which are
tuned to 5.5MHz.
The local oscillator transistor inside
IC1 is connected in a Colpitts circuit.
This includes coil L3, together with the
two 15pF capacitors (which provide
the emitter tap) and a 10pF capacitor
in series with varicap diode VC3.
Varicap diode VC3 is the receiver’s
tuning capacitor. Its tuning voltage
for each of the two channels is set
by 10-turn trimpots VR4 and VR5,
with switch S1 selecting between
them. We can tune the receiver simply by changing the local oscillator
frequency because we only need to
tune over a relatively small range (ie,
137.3 - 137.85MHz maximum), which
is within the selectivity curve of the
“front end” tuned circuits.
Moving now to the front end, this
uses a BF998 dual-gate MOSFET (Q1)
connected in a standard cascode amplifier configuration. The incoming
December 2003 19
Parts List
1 PC board, code 06112031,
117 x 102mm (double-sided,
not plated through)
1 small instrument case, 140 x
110 x 65mm
2 5.5MHz ceramic filters, Murata
SFTRD5M50AF00-B0
2 RCA sockets, 90° PC-mount
1 2.5mm concentric power
socket, PC-mount
1 3.5mm stereo headphone jack,
PC-mount
1 SPDT miniature toggle switch
3 PC board terminal pins, 1mm
diameter
1 TO-220 heatsink, 19 x 18.5 x
9mm
3 small skirted instrument knobs,
15mm diameter
1 coil former, 4.83mm OD with
F16 ferrite slug
1 6-pin former base and
screening can
1 short length of 0.25mm enamelled copper wire for RFC1
1 F29 ferrite bead (for RFC1)
1 short length of 0.8mm tinned
copper wire for L1
1 length of 0.8mm enamelled
copper wire for L2, L3
8 4g x 6mm self-tapping screws
1 M3 x 6mm machine screw, M3
nut and lock washer
1 20 x 92mm piece of 0.3mm
tinplate for shield
Semiconductors
1 SA605D mixer/IF amplifier/FM
detector (IC1)
1 TL072 dual op-amp (IC2)
1 LM386 audio amp (IC3)
1 7812 +12V regulator (REG1)
1 78L05 +5V regulator (REG2)
1 BF998 dual-gate MOSFET (Q1)
1 PN100 NPN transistor (Q2)
1 5.1V 400mW zener diode (ZD1)
1 3mm red LED (LED1)
1 3mm green LED (LED2)
1 ZMV833ATA varicap (VC3)
VHF signals are fed into a tap (for impedance matching) on antenna coil L1,
which is tuned to about 137.55MHz
using trimmer capacitor VC1. The signal from the top of this tuned circuit is
then fed directly to gate 1 of Q1, while
gate 2 is bypassed to ground but also
fed with an adjustable DC voltage via
VR1 for RF gain control.
20 Silicon Chip
1 1N4004 1A power diode (D1)
Capacitors
1 2200µF 16V RB electrolytic
1 470µF 25V RB electrolytic
1 330µF 16V RB electrolytic
3 10µF 16V RB electrolytic
1 10µF 35V TAG tantalum
1 470nF MKT metallised
polyester
8 100nF multilayer monolithic
ceramic
1 47nF MKT metallised polyester
1 22nF MKT metallised polyester
5 10nF multilayer monolithic
ceramic
1 4.7nF MKT metallised
polyester
7 2.2nF disc ceramic
2 2.2nF SMD ceramic
1 1nF disc ceramic
1 1nF MKT metallised polyester
1 390pF NPO ceramic
2 15pF NPO ceramic
1 10pF NPO ceramic
2 3-10pF trimcaps (VC1, VC2)
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
1 470kΩ
1 1.8kΩ
1 390kΩ
1 1.5kΩ
1 150kΩ
1 1.2kΩ
1 110kΩ
4 1kΩ
1 100kΩ
1 360Ω
1 47kΩ
1 300Ω
1 39kΩ
1 240Ω
3 22kΩ
1 220Ω
2 10kΩ
2 100Ω
1 5.6kΩ
1 47Ω
1 4.7kΩ
1 22Ω
2 2.2kΩ
1 10Ω
Potentiometers
1 50kΩ linear pot, 16mm PC
board mount (VR1)
1 25kΩ linear pot, 16mm PC
board mount (VR2)
1 50kΩ log pot, 16mm PC board
mount (VR3)
2 50kΩ 10-turn trimpots, PC
board mount (VR4,VR5)
The amplified VHF signal on Q1’s
drain is fed to pin 1 of IC1 via a 1nF
coupling capacitor. Additional RF
selectivity is provided by coil L2
and trimmer capacitor VC2, which
are again tuned to about 137.55MHz.
The 100Ω resistor and 10µH RF choke
form an untuned high-impedance load
for Q1.
Notice that as well as being coupled
to the tap on L1 via a 2.2nF capacitor,
the antenna input is also connected to
the +12V supply line via RFC1 and a
series 22Ω resistor. As you may have
guessed, these components are there
to provide “phantom” DC power for
the masthead preamp.
At the output end of IC1, we take
the demodulated APT signals from
the “muted audio” output at pin 8.
This allows us to take advantage of the
SA605’s built-in muting circuit, which
works by using comparator stage IC2b
to compare IC1’s RSSI output from
pin 7 (proportional to the logarithm of
signal strength) with an adjustable DC
control voltage from muting pot VR2.
When the RSSI voltage rises above
the voltage from VR2, IC2b’s output
switches high and this is fed to pin
5 of IC1 via a 2.2kΩ series resistor to
unmute the audio. ZD1, a 5.1V zener
diode, limits the swing on pin 5 of IC1
to less than 6V.
Transistor Q2 and LED1 form a
simple signal strength indicator. This
also uses the RSSI output from IC1.
In operation, the voltage across the
390kΩ resistor and 100nF capacitor
rises from about +0.26V under no-signal conditions to about +5V with a
very strong input signal. So with Q2
connected as an emitter follower and
LED1 in its emitter load, the LED current and brightness are made to vary
quite usefully with signal strength.
Low-pass filter
The demodulated APT signal from
pin 8 of IC1 is first fed through op amp
IC2a, which is configured as an active
low-pass filter. This has a turnover
frequency of 5kHz and is used for final
de-emphasis and noise reduction.
From there, the signal is fed to audio
gain control VR3 and then to audio
amplifier stage IC3. This is a standard
LM386 audio amplifier IC, configured
for a gain of about 40 times. Its output
is fed to both the monitor speaker
socket and to a line output socket for
connection to your PC’s sound card.
Power supply
Most of the receiver’s circuitry operates from +12V, with the exception of
IC1 which needs +6V. As a result, the
power supply circuitry includes REG1
to provide a regulated and smoothed
+12V supply from an external supply
such as a 14.5-18V plugpack. This is
followed by 5V regulator REG2 which
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December 2003 21
Fig.2: the complete circuit diagram for the VHF Weather Satellite Receiver. Dual-gate MOSFET Q1 functions as an RF amplifier stage with adjustable gain. Its
output is fed into IC1 and the demodulated output from IC1 fed to low-pass filter stage IC2 and then to audio output stage IC3. The local oscillator (LO) inside
IC1 is tuned using VR4, VR5 and varicap diode VC3.
Fig.3: install the parts on the top of the PC board as shown here. The red dots
indicate where component leads and “pin-throughs” have to be soldered on
both sides of the PC board. Note that S1 is not directly soldered to the board but
is instead connected to three PC stakes using flying leads.
has its output “jacked up” using 300Ω
and 47Ω resistors to provide close to
+6V for the SA605D (IC1).
Note that if you want to run the receiver from a 12V battery, this can be
quite easily done by replacing REG1
with a wire link. In addition, the
2200µF capacitor should be replaced
with a 16V zener diode (ZD2) for
over-voltage protection.
Construction
Construction is straightforward with
virtually all of the parts mounted on a
small PC board coded 06112031 (117
x 102mm). The board is double-sided
but the top copper pattern is used
mainly as a groundplane. This means
that the board doesn’t need to have
plated-through holes but there are
quite a few component leads which
do have to be soldered on both sides
of the board.
22 Silicon Chip
There are also a number of “pinthrough” wires which have to be
soldered to both sides of the PC board
around IC1. These connect the earth
patterns on both sides of the board
and ensure that this high-gain chip
operates in a stable manner.
Fig.3 shows the assembly details. As
shown, the various input and output
connectors are mounted along the rear
edge of the board, while the controls
and indicator LEDs mount along the
front edge. The only component not
actually mounted on the board is
S1, the channel select toggle switch.
This mounts on the front panel, with
its three connection lugs wired to
PC board terminal pins directly underneath using very short lengths of
insulated hookup wire.
Start the assembly by fitting these
three terminal pins first (they are the
only pins used in the receiver), then
Fig.4: here’s how to install the three
surface-mount parts (Q1, IC1 & VC3)
on the underside of the board. Q1
and VC3 can be held in position using
epoxy resin to make soldering easier
– see text.
fit the project’s only wire link, which
goes on the righthand side of the
board just to the left of IC2. Note that
this the link must be insulated, as it
carries +12V and passes over groundplane copper.
Next, fit the four connectors CON1CON4 along the rear edge, followed
by the resistors. Table 1 shows the
resistor colour codes but it’s also a
good idea to check each value using a
digital multimeter before soldering it
in position. All resistors are fitted to
the top of the PC board but note that
some of them have one lead soldered
to the top copper as well as the bottom
copper. This is indicated by the red
dots on the overlay diagram.
Once the resistors are in, you can
fit the “pin-throughs” using some of
the resistor lead offcuts. The location
of these “pin-throughs” are again indicated by the red dots on the layout
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This is the view inside the assembled receiver. Note that a tinplate shield is
fitted around L2, VC2 and most of the components in Q1’s drain circuit (see
text). Note also that the metal bodies of the potentiometers are connected
together using tinned copper wire and then connected to the groundplane
copper on the PC board.
diagram. Each “pin-through” is fitted
by simply passing a wire through the
hole in the board, then soldering it on
both sides and trimming off the excess
lead lengths.
The small ceramic capacitors can
now all be installed on the lefthand
side of the board. Note that some of
these also have their “cold” leads soldered on both sides of the board, as
indicated by the red dots. Once they’re
in, install the MKT capacitors and the
electrolytics, making sure that the latter
are all correctly orientated.
Now for trimmer capacitors VC1 and
VC2. These should be fitted so that
their adjustment rotors are connected
to earth (this makes it much easier to
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align the receiver later). It’s simply a
matter of orientating them on the board
as shown in Fig.3.
A small number of receivers have
needed a small earthed shield plate
over the top of the IF chip, to keep
it from taking off. Similarly, one or
two have needed 47nF SMD bypass
capacitors from the source of the
RF amplifier to ground, to keep it
stable.
RF chokes RFC2 and RFC3 are both
supplied pre-wound (10µH and 68µH
respectively) but RFC1 needs to be
wound on an F29 ferrite bead. It’s
very easy to wind though, because it
requires only two turns of 0.25mm
enamelled copper wire.
Winding the coils
At this stage, it’s a good idea to
wind and fit the remaining coils.
Table 3 gives the winding details. As
shown, L1-L3 are air-cored types, each
consisting of five turns of 0.8mm dia
meter wire wound on a 5mm mandrel.
Note, however, that L1 is wound using
tinned copper wire, while L2 and
L3 are both wound using enamelled
copper wire. Don’t forget to scrape off
the enamel at each end, so they can be
soldered to the board pads.
L1-L3 should all be mounted so that
their turns are about 2mm above the
board. After you’ve fitted L1, don’t
forget to fit its “tap” connection lead as
well. This can be made from a resistor
lead off-cut, since it’s very short. It
connects to a point 1/3 of a turn up
from the “cold” (earthy) end of the
coil – ie, just above half-way up the
side of the first turn.
December 2003 23
Table 3: Coil Winding Details
to scrape away the passivation from
the pot bodies in order to get good
solder connections.
Mounting the semiconductors
The final coil to wind is quad detector coil L4. Unlike the others, this
is wound on a 4.83mm OD former
with a base and a copper shield can.
It’s wound from 20 turns of 0.25mm
enamelled copper wire and tuned with
an F16 ferrite slug.
Once L4 is wound, fitted to the board
and covered with its shield can, you
can fit the two ceramic filters CF1 and
CF2. These devices can be fitted either
way around but make sure that their
pins are pushed through the board
holes as far as they’ll go before you
solder them underneath.
The next step is to fashion and fit
the small tinplate shield at the location shown in the overlay diagram
– ie, around L2, VC2 and most of the
components in the drain circuit of Q1.
This shield is U-shaped and measures
20mm high, with the front and back
“arms” 36mm long and the side section
20mm long. The bottom edges of all
three sides are soldered to the board’s
groundplane in a number of places, to
hold it firmly in position and to ensure
it stays at earth potential.
to connect their metal shield cans
together and then run a lead to the
board’s top copper to earth them. This
is done using a length of tinned copper
wire, with a short length of insulated
hookup wire then connecting them
to the board copper at front right (see
photos). Note that it will be necessary
Fitting the pots
The two 10-turn trimpots (VR4 and
VR5) can now be soldered in position
at the front-centre of the board. They
can then be followed by the three main
control pots, which are all 16mm dia
meter types. Trim each pot’s spindle
length to about 9mm before fitting it
and make sure you fit each one in its
correct position as they are all different.
In particular, note that VR1 and VR3
both have a value of 50kΩ but VR1 is
a linear pot while VR3 is a log type.
After fitting the pots, it’s a good idea
24 Silicon Chip
This view of the underside of the PC
board shows the locations of the three
surface-mount devices (SMDs). Refer
to the text for the mounting details.
Now you should be ready to fit the
semiconductor devices – or at least
those that go on the top of the board.
Begin by installing diode D1, 5.1V
zener diode ZD1 and transistor Q2.
That done, install regulator REG1
(if you’re using it) and its associated
heatsink, as shown in Fig.3. These
parts are secured to the board using
a 6mm-long M3 screw, nut and lockwasher. Note that REG1’s centre pin
should be soldered on both sides of
the board but take care not to touch
either of the two large adjacent electrolytic capacitors with the barrel of
your soldering iron.
Next, fit regulator REG2, followed
by IC2 (TL072) and IC3 (LM386). Note
that pin 4 on both these devices should
be soldered to the copper on the top of
the board as well as the bottom.
The two LEDs (LED1 & LED2) are
both mounted horizontally, so that
they later protrude through matching
3mm holes in the front panel. Note that
they are both fitted with their cathode
leads towards the left. Bend their leads
down through 90° about 5mm from
the LED bodies, then solder them in
position so that the axis of each LED
is 5mm above the board.
The final components to fit are the
surface-mount parts, which all fit underneath the board – see Fig.4. We’re
talking here of varicap diode VC3
(ZMV833ATA), the BF998 dual-gate
MOSFET (Q1), and the SA605D IC
(IC1). The first two in particular are
in very tiny packages and need very
careful handling.
In fact, these very small devices
are not easy to hold in position while
you solder them but there is a way
around this. The trick is to mix up a
small amount of 5-minute epoxy resin
cement (Araldite or similar) and then
apply an extremely small “dot” of
epoxy to the underside of the board at
each component position (if you use
the end of a resistor or diode lead offcut
as the cement applicator, this should
apply about the right amount). It’s
then just a matter of using tweezers to
carefully place each component in its
correct position over the epoxy “dots”,
with the correct orientation.
When you’re satisfied that they’re
all located accurately, carefully put the
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Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
No.
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
3
2
1
1
2
1
1
1
4
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
Value
470kΩ
390kΩ
150kΩ
110kΩ
100kΩ
47kΩ
39kΩ
22kΩ
10kΩ
5.6kΩ
4.7kΩ
2.2kΩ
1.8kΩ
1.5kΩ
1.2kΩ
1kΩ
360Ω
300Ω
240Ω
220Ω
100Ω
47Ω
22Ω
10Ω
board aside for 10 minutes or so to let the
adhesive cure. After this, you can solder
their leads to the PC pads without having
to worry about them moving.
IC1 can be mounted in the same way
if you like but it’s not nearly as small
as the other two parts and so isn’t as
difficult. The main thing to watch
out for here is that you don’t create
solder bridges when you’re soldering
its leads, as they’re spaced at just
1.25mm. Make sure you use a clean
fine-tipped soldering iron for this job
and work quickly so that you don’t
overheat either the IC or the copper
pads on the board.
After soldering all three SMD devices in place, it’s a good idea to inspect
them very carefully using a magnifying
glass. Check that all joints have been
made correctly and that there are no
solder bridges.
Final assembly
The completed PC board is housed
in a low-profile plastic instrument
case. If you purchase a kit, this will
probably come with all holes predrilled. If not, you will have to drill
the front and rear panels yourself using
Figs.4 & 5 as drilling templates.
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4-Band Code (1%)
yellow violet yellow brown
orange white yellow brown
brown green yellow brown
brown brown yellow brown
brown black yellow brown
yellow violet orange brown
orange white orange brown
red red orange brown
brown black orange brown
green blue red brown
yellow violet red brown
red red red brown
brown grey red brown
brown green red brown
brown red red brown
brown black red brown
orange blue brown brown
orange black brown brown
red yellow brown brown
red red brown brown
brown black brown brown
yellow violet black brown
red red black brown
brown black black brown
By the way, it’s always best to drill
a small pilot hole at each location and
then carefully enlarge it to size using
a tapered reamer. As well as the holes
shown, you might also want to drill
small “blind” holes in the rear of the
front panel to mate with the locating
spigots on VR1, VR2 and VR3, and
the spigot on the backing washer for
toggle switch S1.
Once the panels have been prepared,
you can mount switch S1 on the front
panel and connect three 30mm lengths
of insulated hookup wire to the three
pins on the PC board via. That done,
the front panel can be mated with the
PC board by positioning it on the three
pot ferrules and doing up the nuts. The
three leads from the PC board pins can
then be soldered to the switch lugs.
The rear panel is not attached to
the board assembly. Instead, it simply
slips over CON1 and CON2 and is then
slid into the rear slot when the assembly is fitted into the bottom half of the
case. Finally, the completed assembly
is fastened in place using eight 6mmlong 4-gauge self-tapping screws.
Does it work?
Now for the final checkout, to make
5-Band Code (1%)
yellow violet black orange brown
orange white black orange brown
brown green black orange brown
brown brown black orange brown
brown black black orange brown
yellow violet black red brown
orange white black red brown
red red black red brown
brown black black red brown
green blue black brown brown
yellow violet black brown brown
red red black brown brown
brown grey black brown brown
brown green black brown brown
brown red black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
orange blue black black brown
orange black black black brown
red yellow black black brown
red red black black brown
brown black black black brown
yellow violet black gold brown
red red black gold brown
brown black black gold brown
Table 2: Capacitor Codes
Value
470nF
100nF
47nF
22nF
10nF
4.7nF
2.2nF
1nF
390pF
15pF
10pF
μF Code EIA Code
0.47µF 474
0.1µF
104
0.047µF 473
0.022µF 223
0.01µF 103
0.0047µF 472
0.0022µF 222
0.001µF 102
–
391
–
15
–
10
IEC Code
470n
100n
47n
22n
10n
4n7
2n2
1n
390p
15p
10p
sure it’s working properly.
First, turn all three front-panel pots
fully anticlockwise, then apply power
from a suitable 14-18V DC plugpack
(or a 12V battery). Check that the
green power LED immediately begins
glowing.
If it does, check the voltage on
REG1’s output lead (ie, the righthand
lead) with your DMM – it should
be very close to +12V with respect
to ground. Similarly, the voltage at
REG2’s (righthand) output pin should
December 2003 25
The receiver is easy to drive, with just four front-panel controls. These are
(from left to right): RF Gain, Channel Select, Muting Level and Audio Gain. In
addition, there are two holes in the front panel to provide screwdriver access to
the 10-turn pots (VR4 & VR5) during alignment.
measure very close to +6V.
If you now plug an 8Ω speaker into
CON3 and then turn up audio gain
control VR3, you should hear a small
amount of hiss and noise. When you
turn up the RF gain control VR1 as
well, this noise should increase a little further but LED1 shouldn’t begin
glowing except only very faintly when
VR1 is turned fully clockwise.
Now turn VR1 fully anticlockwise
again and use your DMM to measure
the DC voltage at the top of the 390kΩ
resistor located just behind transistor
Q2 (ie, to the right of 5.1V zener diode
ZD1). The voltage across this resistor
should be less than 0.30V and preferably about 0.26V. If it’s any higher than
0.30V, the IF amplifier in IC1 may be
unstable.
Assuming that your receiver has
passed all these tests, it should be
working correctly and is now ready
for alignment.
Receiver alignment
26 Silicon Chip
A final “touch up” alignment of the
receiver is best done with a satellite
signal. However, you need to give it a
basic alignment first so that you can
at least find the signal from a satellite
when it’s within range.
For the basic alignment, you’ll need
access to a frequency counter capable
of measuring up to 150MHz and an
RF signal generator which can be set
to give an output at 137.50MHz and
at 137.62MHz. It should be able to
provide either unmodulated (CW)
output or frequency modulation, with
a modulating frequency of 2.4kHz and
a deviation of ±25kHz or thereabouts.
If the generator can’t be accurately
set to the above frequencies, you’ll
need to use the frequency counter to
help set its frequency. You’ll also need
your DMM during the “tuning-up”
process, to monitor received signal
level.
The first step is to set the local oscillator frequencies for the two reception
channels. This is done by adjusting
trimpots VR4 and VR5 respectively,
while measuring the oscillator’s frequency with the frequency counter.
The oscillator signal is coupled to the
counter via a “sniffer” coil which is
connected to the end of a coaxial cable. The other end of this cable is then
connected to the counter’s input.
Note that there is no direct physical
connection between the oscillator coil
and the counter’s sniffer coil. Instead,
the sniffer coil is placed about 9mm in
front of oscillator coil (L3) and roughly
on-axis (ie, just in front of the 10pF
capacitor).
The sniffer coil can be made by
winding four turns of 0.8mm enamelled copper wire on a 5mm drill
shank. Its ends can then soldered ends
to a BNC socket which is then connected to the end of the counter input
cable (see photo). This arrangement
picks up enough oscillator energy to
give reliable counter readings, without
needing to be any closer to L3 (to avoid
“pulling” the frequency).
Assuming you want to receive the
NOAA satellites, set the oscillator
frequency for channel A to 132.0MHz
(using VR4), and the frequency for
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You can make a sniffer coil for your
frequency counter by winding four
turns of 0.8mm enamelled copper
wire on a 5mm drill shank. Its ends
can then be soldered to a BNC socket
which is then connected to a plug on
the end of a coaxial cable. The other
end of the cable is then connected to
the frequency counter.
channel B to 132.12MHz (using VR5).
These correspond to reception frequencies of 137.5MHz for NOAAs 12 & 15
and 137.62MHz for NOAA 17. If you
want to try for other satellites, you’ll
need to find out their APT frequency
and set the oscillator frequency to
5.5MHz below that figure instead.
Peaking the RF stage
Once the oscillator frequencies have
been set, the next step is to peak up the
RF stage tuned circuits. This is done
by setting your RF signal generator to
produce an unmodulated (CW) signal
at 137.5MHz, initially with a level of
about 30µV. That done, connect the
generator’s output to the antenna input
of the receiver, using a series DC blocking capacitor if the generator doesn’t
have one (so that the generator doesn’t
short out the +12V phantom power for
the masthead amplifier).
Next, connect your DMM (set to the
5V DC range) across the 390kΩ resistor
just behind Q2 and make sure switch
S1 is set to the channel A position.
Now turn up RF gain control VR1 to
about midway and use an alignment
tool or a very small jeweller’s screwdriver to adjust trimcap VC2 until
you find a peak in the voltage reading
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Fig.5: here are the full-size (top and bottom) etching patterns for the PC board.
on the DMM. If you can’t find a peak,
you may have to pull the turns on coil
L2 slightly further apart to reduce its
inductance.
Once the peak is found, adjust VC2
carefully to maximise the DMM reading
(the DMM is reading the RSSI voltage
from IC1, so it’s essentially showing
the received signal strength).
When you’re happy that the L2/VC2
circuit is tuned to 137.5MHz, check the
actual voltage reading of the DMM. If
it’s more than 2.5V, reduce the output
level from the RF generator until the
December 2003 27
Fig.6: these two full-size artworks can be photocopied and used as drilling templates for the front and rear panels.
DMM reading drops to about 2.0V.
You’re now ready to peak the receiver’s input tuned circuit – ie, L1
and VC1. This is done in exactly the
same way as for L2 & VC2. Just adjust
VC1 slowly until the DMM indicates
a peak and then carefully set VC1 for
the maximum peak reading. If you
can’t find another peak, you may need
to pull the turns of L1 slightly further
apart as before.
Peaking the quadrature coil
The final alignment step is to set the
slug in quadrature detector coil L4 to
the correct position for optimum FM
demodulation of the 5.5MHz IF signals. This is done by first switching
the signal generator so that it’s still
producing a 137.5MHz signal but this
should now be frequency modulated
– preferably with a 2.4kHz tone and a
deviation of about ±25kHz.
That done, connect an 8Ω speaker to
the receiver’s speaker socket (CON3)
and turn up the audio gain control
(VR3) to about the 10-o’clock position.
You may not be able to hear the 2.4kHz
modulating signal at this stage but in
any case, slowly and carefully adjust
the slug in L4 using a non-magnetic
alignment tool. Sooner or later you’ll
start to hear the 2.4kHz tone and you
should also be able to tune the coil for
maximum audio level and minimum
distortion and noise.
Once this has been done, the basic
alignment of your weather satellite
receiver is finished and it’s ready
for final alignment using the signals
from a weather satellite. But before
you’ll be able to do this, you’ll need
to build a suitable antenna and masthead preamp. They’ll be described in
another article next month.
SC
This view shows the rear panel layout. There are two RCA sockets (one at each end) for the antenna and audio
output signals, a 2.5mm DC power socket and a 3.5mm stereo jack socket for the loudspeaker.
28 Silicon Chip
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which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
dicksmith.com.au
Power the brightest
LEDs on Earth with this
simple linear supply!
Want to run one or more Luxeon 1W Star
white LEDs from a 12V battery or a DC
plugpack? This circuit allows you to do it
and allows for dimming as well. It uses bogstandard parts, including a 555 timer and
two 3-terminal regulators.
By PETER SMITH
Back in the May 2003 edition, we described two of the brightest LEDs available anywhere – Lumileds’ 1W and
5W Luxeon Stars. Understandably,
the article generated lots of interest,
with many readers resolved to wiring
up their own Stars and seeing this
dazzling new technology first hand.
Unlike the (much) smaller 3mm and
34 Silicon Chip
5mm LEDs that we’re all familiar with,
driving these new devices with just a
series current-limiting resistor can be
a bit risky. A better way is to power
them from a constant current source,
to achieve full brightness without
exceeding maximum ratings.
This simple circuit will allow you
to drive the 1W version (any colour)
with the maximum rated current and
keep it cool as well. It also gives you
control over LED brightness, which
can be varied from about 10% to 100%
with an on-board potentiometer.
How it works
The circuit diagram for the power
supply appears in Fig.1. It consists of
two main elements – a current source
and a variable duty cycle oscillator.
Let’s examine the current source first
– it uses a LM317 3-terminal regulator
(REG1). Commonly, these regulators
are programmed with two resistors to
provide a particular output voltage,
as shown in Fig.2. To maintain the
programmed output voltage, the regulator keeps the difference between its
‘ADJ’ and ‘OUT’ terminals equal to an
internal 1.25V reference.
Fig.3 shows that without the resiswww.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the circuit is based on an LM317 regulator and 555 timer. The regulator
is connected as a 350mA constant current source, with its ‘on’ time varied by
the 555 to control LED brightness.
tor to ground (R2), the regulator still
maintains 1.25V across R1. But rather
than a regulated voltage, we now have
a constant current source proportional
to 1.25V/R1.
Calculating R1 for our 350mA Star
is easy:
R1 = 1.25V/350mA = 3.57Ω
Referring again to the main circuit
(Fig.1), you can see that ‘R1’ consists
of 3.9Ω and 47Ω resistors in parallel,
for a total resistance of 3.6Ω. Unlike
the simple schematic in Fig.3, the
output is connected back to the ‘ADJ’
pin via a 120Ω resistor. This additional
resistor has virtually no effect on the
programmed current and its purpose
will become clear in a moment.
For our description thus far, we’ve
assumed that JP1 is open circuit. But
what happens when it’s shorted? Well,
when transistor Q2 switches on, the
LM317 begins to regulate the output
voltage (instead of current), with the
120Ω and 47Ω resistors forming ‘R1’
& ‘R2’ as depicted in Fig.2. The output
voltage will be:
VOUT = 1.25V(1 + 47Ω/120Ω) = 1.7V
Taking into account Q2’s collector to
emitter saturation voltage, the output
voltage is slightly higher than our calculated value. However, it’s still less
than the minimum forward voltage of
www.siliconchip.com.au
the red/amber and white/blue Stars
(about 2.3V and 2.8V respectively), so
the LED will be switched off.
Pulse-width modulation
Rather than reducing drive current,
Luxeon recommends using pulse
width modulation (PWM) switching to
reduce the brightness of the Star. This
results in a much more colour-uniform
light output, right down to minimum
brightness. If you just vary the drive
voltage in a linear fashion, the Star’s
light output tends to become yellowish
as the drive voltage is reduced.
PWM switching is just a matter of
switching the LED on and off at a fixed
frequency and varying the duty cycle
(on/off time) to vary brightness. With a
high enough frequency, the switching
Fig.2: the LM317’s output voltage
is set with two resistors.
Main Features
•
•
•
•
Simple construction
Variable LED brightness
Plugpack or battery powered
Drives 1 to 4 x 1W Luxeon
Stars
effects are invisible. This is due to
the long persistence of the phosphors
(in white LEDs) and the natural light
integration of the human eye.
As you’ve probably guessed, transistor Q2 in our circuit is responsible for
switching the current source (REG1) to
give PWM control. Q2 is driven by Q1,
which is simply a buffer and inverter
stage. The real work is performed by
IC1, an old 555 workhorse.
IC1 is configured as a free-running
oscillator (or “astable multivibrator”)
with a nominal frequency of about
Fig.3: with a single resistor
between its ‘OUT’ and ‘ADJ’
terminals, the LM317 acts as
constant current source.
December 2003 35
Fig.4: these two waveforms were captured at the output of
the supply. With the brightness pot (VR1) set to minimum
resistance, only 9% of the power is delivered to the LED.
1.1kHz. Diodes D3 & D4 provide independent charge and discharge paths
for the 10nF capacitor, allowing the
duty cycle to be controlled without
much variation in the frequency of
oscillation.
As a result, trimpot VR1 can vary the
duty cycle from 9% to 99% (see Figs.4
& 5), resulting in an average current
of between about 30mA and 346mA.
Even at minimum brightness, you can
still read a book by one of these little
marvels!
When driving 3 or 4 LEDs in series,
the circuit input voltage can exceed
18V (the 555’s max. supply voltage), so
we’ve provided a separate +5V supply
for the 555 and associated circuitry.
This is generated by REG2, a 78L05
low-power regulator.
Input to REG1 & REG2 is via series
diodes D1 & D2, ensuring nothing bad
happens if the supply is accidentally
reversed.
Input power (single LED)
For a single Star, the input voltage
should be between 7.5V and 12.5V.
This means that you can drive it from
a 7.5V or 9V plugpack (min. 500mA
rating), or a 12V SLA battery. 12V
plugpacks are generally not suitable,
Fig.5: when trimpot VR1 is at the maximum setting, a
duty cycle of 99% drives the LED at virtually full
brilliance.
because they put out excessively high
voltages when lightly loaded.
The maximum input voltage that
can be applied is limited by available
power dissipation. When properly
mounted to the specified heatsink, the
temperature rise of regulator REG1 is
about 25°C above ambient with a 12.5V
input. This is well within the regulator’s rating and the heatsink won’t burn
your fingers or start a fire!
The minimum input voltage is governed by circuit overhead (about 3.9V)
and the LED’s forward voltage (about
3.4V for white or blue Stars). So for a
single white or blue Star, about 7.3V
minimum is required to obtain full
brilliance.
input voltage has been established.
Alternatively, monitor the voltage
drop across the 3.9Ω resistor while
slowly increasing the input voltage.
When it reaches 1.25V, the LM317 is
in regulation and therefore sourcing
the full 350mA.
Using a lower voltage than recommended will result in less than
maximum brightness, whereas higher
voltages may (eventually) overheat the
assembly.
The LM317 regulator has in-built
over-temperature protection and can
survive short-term abuse. However,
extended high temperatures will
eventually destroy it and burn (or
delaminate) the PC board.
If the heatsink is too hot to touch,
then the input voltage is too high!
Note: do not attempt to drive these
LEDs in parallel. Although possible,
Driving multiple Stars
Up to four stars (any colour) can be
driven in series. The recommended
voltage ranges are shown in Table 3.
This should be considered as a rough
guide only, as the total voltage across
any LED string will vary considerably,
according to LED colour and individual device characteristics.
The optimum input voltage can be
established using a variable power
supply. When the LEDs just reach
maximum brilliance, the minimum
Table 2: Capacitor Codes
Value μF Code
220nF 0.22µF
100nF 0.1µF
10nF .01µF
1nF .001µF
EIA Code IEC Code
224
220n
104
100n
103
10n
102
1n
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
No.
2
2
1
2
36 Silicon Chip
Value
3.3kΩ
1kΩ
120Ω
47Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
orange orange red brown
brown black red brown
brown red brown brown
yellow violet black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
orange orange black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
brown red black black brown
yellow violet black gold brown
www.siliconchip.com.au
parallel configurations require voltage-matched devices.
Power supply board assembly
All parts (except for the LED) mount
on a single PC board, coded 11112031.
Using the overlay diagram in Fig.6 as a
guide, begin by installing the two wire
links, followed by all of the 0.25W
resistors.
Diodes D1-D4 can go in next, making sure that you have the cathode
(banded) ends oriented as shown.
Follow up with the two transistors
(Q1 & Q2), 78L05 regulator (REG2) and
trimpot (VR1).
All remaining components, apart
from the LM317 (REG1) and its heatsink, can now be installed. Note that
the 555 timer (IC1) and electrolytic
capacitors (100µF & 10µF) must go in
the right way around.
The final step involves mounting the
heatsink and installing the regulator.
To do this, first secure the heatsink
firmly to the PC board with two M3
x 6mm screws, nuts and flat washers.
Next, bend the regulator’s leads at 90°
about 3mm from the body and temporarily slip it into position.
Verify that the hole in the regulator’s tab lines up with the hole in the
heatsink, which should in turn match
the hole in the PC board underneath.
If all is well, you can now remove the
regulator and apply a thin smear of
heatsink compound to both the rear
of the metal tab and the mating area
on the heatsink surface.
Finally, slip the regulator back
into position and fasten it securely
to the heatsink & PC board with an
M3 x 10mm screw, nut and washer.
Solder and trim the leads to complete
the job.
Note: the metal tab of the regulator
is internally connected to the ‘OUT’
terminal, so the heatsink will be live.
The LED (and any other uninsulated
wiring) must not be allowed to make
contact with the heatsink! If you don’t
like this idea, then you can mount
the regulator to the heatsink using
an insulating pad and washer. The
down-side to this arrangement is
higher regulator temperature.
Fig.6: follow this diagram closely when assembling your boards. To
make the job easier, leave the heatsink and regulator (REG1) until last.
This view shows the
completed power supply
PC board, prior to fitting
the LED carrier board. The
heatsink keeps REG1 cool.
LED mounting
The Star’s emitter and collimating
optics are mounted directly onto an
aluminium-cored PC board. In most
cases, no additional heatsinking is
required. However, a small heatsink
www.siliconchip.com.au
reduces junction temperature significantly and ensures maximum LED
life.
Just about any small aluminium
heatsink with a flat area large enough
to accommodate the Star’s 25mm
footprint can be pressed into service.
For example, an old 486 PC processor
December 2003 37
The 1W Star LED is available in seven
colours: white, green, cyan, blue,
royal blue, red and amber. They can
all be driven by this power supply.
Fig.7: here are the full-size etching patterns for the two PC boards.
Check your etched boards carefully before installing the parts.
heatsink would probably be ideal!
For experimentation purposes, an
area of PC board copper also does
the job nicely. This is the purpose
of our simple “carrier” board, which
also provides a convenient mounting
and terminating method for the LED
module.
LED carrier board assembly
Before mounting the LED module,
make sure that the mating surface is
completely smooth. If there are any
“lumps” of solder, then they must be
removed using desoldering braid.
Apply a thin smear of heatsink compound to the rear of the LED module
as well as to the mating surface (copper side) of the PC board. The module
can then be attached to the PC board
using two M3 x 6mm screws, nuts &
washers.
With opposing corner holes, the
module could be mounted one of
two ways. To determine the correct
orientation, look for a tiny copper
“dot” next to one of the corner solder
pads. This indicates positive (+) and
should be aligned as shown on the
overlay diagram (Fig.6).
Once mounted, all that remains is to
wire up the LED anode (+) and cathode
(-) terminals, provided in the form of
two solder pads on opposite corners
of the module’s PC board.
Solder a short length (about 15cm)
of wire to one of the pads and pass it
through the neighbouring hole in the
carrier board. Repeat for the opposite
pad and then twist the two wires together under the board. Secure at the
end of the carrier board with a small
cable tie to ensure that no tension can
be applied to the solder joints.
Before connecting your LED to the
power supply output terminals, it’s
important to verify that the supply
is working properly. A faulty supply
could destroy your $30+ investment
in a blinding flash!
Testing
Connect a 10Ω 5W resistor directly
across the power supply output terminals. Position the body of the resistor
so that it is clear of your workbench
Table 3: A Rough Guide To Input Voltage Ranges
No. of Stars
Min. Voltage
Max. Voltage
1
2
3
4
7.3V
10.7V
14.1V
17.5V
12.5V
15.9V
19.3V
22.7V
38 Silicon Chip
(and your pinkies!), as it could get
extremely hot. If you fitted a jumper
shunt on JP1 earlier, remove it for
now.
Plug in your chosen DC power
source and hit the “go” switch. Assuming there are no ominous bangs or
puffs of smoke, use your multimeter
to measure the voltage drop across the
10Ω resistor. If the supply is sourcing
the expected 350mA (nominal) of
current, your measurement should fall
within the 3.2V - 3.8V range.
Power off, disconnect the resistor
and then re-apply power. Measure
the voltage between pins 1 & 8 of the
555 (IC1). These are the power supply
pins, so your meter should read 5.0V
or thereabouts.
All done! Assuming your board
passed the tests, hook up the LED
leads to the output terminals. Be
particularly careful that the anode (+)
terminal of the LED connects to the
positive (+) output, as the LED module
will be destroyed if reverse voltage is
applied.
Hold your breath and power up.
Don’t stare directly into the LED beam
at close range, as it is (according to
Luxeon) bright enough to damage your
eyesight!
Brightness control
To enable brightness control, install
a jumper shunt on JP1. Now by rotating VR1, you should be able to vary
LED intensity from dim to almost full
brightness.
LED carrier board mounting
To make a neat “one-piece” module,
the LED carrier board can be mounted
www.siliconchip.com.au
Parts List
1 PC board, code 11112031,
80mm x 66mm
1 2.5mm PC-mount DC socket
1 2-way 2.54mm terminal block
1 2-way 2.54mm SIL header
1 jumper shunt
1 Universal ‘U’ heatsink
4 M3 x 10mm tapped spacers
1 M3 x 10mm pan head screw
6 M3 x 6mm pan head screws
6 M3 flat washers
3 M3 nuts
Red & black light-duty hook-up
wire
Heatsink compound
1 9V DC 500mA (min.) plugpack
(see text)
1 100kΩ miniature horizontal
trimpot
Take care to ensure that all polarised parts are correctly oriented when building
the power supply PC board. Note that this prototype PC board differs slightly
from the final version shown in Fig.6.
Semiconductors
1 LM317T adjustable voltage
regulator (REG1)
1 78L05 +5V regulator (REG2)
1 555 timer (IC1)
2 PN100 transistors (Q1, Q2)
2 1N4004 diodes (D1, D2)
2 1N4148 diodes (D3, D4)
1 1W Luxeon Star LED w/optics
(see text)
Capacitors
1 100µF 35V PC electrolytic
1 10µF 16V PC electrolytic
1 220nF 63V MKT polyester
1 100nF 63V MKT polyester
2 10nF 63V MKT polyester
1 1nF 63V MKT polyester
The completed LED carrier board provides a convenient method for mounting
the 1W Star LED module and also provides heatsinking.
piggyback style on the power supply
board.
To do this, insert an M3 x 25mm
screw in one corner hole and slide on
a 15mm spacer from the bottom. Wind
up an M3 nut to hold the spacer in
place, then repeat for the other corner.
The completed assembly can now be
slipped into place in the two corner
holes of the power supply board, replacing the existing M3 x 6mm screws
(see photos).
With the carrier board installed,
you’ll note that the brightness trimpot
(VR1) is no longer easily accessible.
If you need to continually vary the
brightness with the board in-situ, then
you can either reposition the trimpot to
the opposite (copper) side of the board
or install an external potentiometer.
www.siliconchip.com.au
When installing an external pot,
keep the wire length as short as possible (say, no more than about 50mm)
and twist the three connecting wires
tightly together.
Where to get the Stars
The 1W Luxeon Star LEDs are currently available from the Alternative
Technology Association at www.ata.
org.au You can check out their on-line
shop at http://www.bizarsoftware.
com.au/index.html
Lumileds also manufacture higher
output (5W) white and blue Stars. Naturally, these devices are considerably
more expensive that the 1W versions
and require more elaborate heatsinking. Their higher current requirements
(up to 700mA) make them unsuitable
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
2 3.3kΩ
1 120Ω
2 1kΩ
2 47Ω
1 10Ω 5W 5% (for testing)
1 3.9Ω 5W 5%
Parts for optional LED carrier
1 PC board, code 11112032,
80mm x 26mm
2 M3 x 15mm untapped brass or
nylon spacers
2 M3 x 25mm pan head screws
4 M3 x 6mm pan head screws
6 M3 nuts
4 M3 flat washers
1 small cable tie
for use with this supply.
Detailed technical information on
Luxeon Star LEDs can be obtained
from the Lumileds web site at www.
SC
lumileds.com
December 2003 39
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
Turn it upside down to fix it!
I’ve seen customers do some strange things
over the years but here’s one that you
won’t believe. He actually tried to fix an
intermittent fault in his TV set by operating
it upside down! Had he been successful, I
presume he would have then watched TV
standing on his head!
I
recently received a call from our
local RetraVision store, asking me
if I would have a word with one
of their customers who had a faulty
TV. Naturally, I said yes (I need the
money) and after recording her details,
I asked what sort of set she had. She
wasn’t really sure but thought it was
a 2½-year old Sony!
After that response, there was no
point in asking what the model number was, so I asked what the problem
was.
According to the customer, the
set’s picture would “intermittently go
white” and then the set would switch
to standby. I asked her to explain what
she meant by “intermittently” and was
told that sometimes the fault would
appear after about one hour while on
other occasions the set would last for
most of the day.
Unfortunately, this type of intermittent fault cannot readily be fixed in the
home. That’s because the fault might
not show when I called and even if it
did, I couldn’t possibly guarantee that
the problem had been fixed without
prolonged soak testing. So in a nutshell, it had to go to the workshop to
be repaired.
The customer accepted this and so
we arranged that I would call and pick
the set up the next afternoon. And
because it was an 80cm set, I asked
if there was anyone there who could
help me load it into my station wagon or would I have to bring someone
with me. To my surprise, she said that
40 Silicon Chip
she would help me with the set and
wasn’t even the slightest bit fazed even
when I told her that it could weigh
up to 80kg!
As far as she was concerned, it
wasn’t a problem. She worked as a
nurse and was able to lift patients, so
she could easily manage this!
A unique cure
The next afternoon, I dutifully arrived and reversed up her steep drive
and opened the tailgate of the wagon
in anticipation – mentally noting the
number of steps up to the verandah.
However, when I knocked on her door,
she said “you are going to be disappointed – my husband has decided
to try fixing it himself first. If it’s still
giving problems after two weeks, then
you can pick it up”.
Naturally, I was rather peeved by
this. At the very least, she could have
rung and told me this before I drove
out to pick the set up – service calls
are expensive.
Anyway, I was intrigued as to how
her husband intended to fix the set and
she showed me into her living room
to see what they were doing. The set
was a fully imported model they had
Items Covered This Month
•
•
Sony KV-29X5K TV set (FE-1
chassis).
Philips 32PW9631/05 Wide
screen TV (GFL2.3E chassis).
bought with them from Czechoslovakia and it was a Sony KV-29X5K – a
model I had never seen before (possibly a BE3D chassis?)
Anyway, their approach to solving
this fault was to operate the TV completely upside down on their lounge
room floor! I wished them good luck
and left, grateful in the end that I had
got out of the job.
Later, I speculated on just what they
were trying to achieve by turning the
set upside down. In the end, I could
only surmise that because the set was
originally from the Northern Hemisphere, they thought that rotating it in
the Earth’s magnetic field might fix the
problem. However, this is for a colour
purity problem and would not affect
this particular fault. And in any case,
a 2½-year set would probably have
a “Terrestrial Magnetism Correction
System” (TMCS) fitted (available
since February 1998) to compensate
for any geomagnetic effects on the
tube’s shadow mask.
In greater detail, TMCS is a relatively new technology that was developed
to overcome the effects of regional
(horizontal) magnetic field variations
on the picture tube. In Europe and the
USA, for example, the average field
strength is about 35mT (milli-Teslas)
compared to 30mT in Japan and 40mT
in Malaysia, Singapore and Hong
Kong. However, large regional variations can exist (eg, due to geological
factors) and even the presence of a
lot of steel in a building can have a
localised effect.
In fact, if the set is located in an area
with a strong local magnetic field, you
can see the effect change the on-screen
colours as you move or rotate the set
around. Because of this, all TV sets are
fitted with an automatic degaussing
circuit to demagnetise the shadow
mask in the picture tube every time
it is switched on from cold (it takes
about 20 minutes for the dual posistor
to cool down again).
The TMCS system takes this a step
www.siliconchip.com.au
further. It relies on a geomagnetic
sensor (MIU-102-N) which detects the
horizontal magnetic field and varies
the DC current through a beam-loading correction coil (LCC). This coil
is placed near the tube and corrects
the purity using Fleming’s lefthand
rule. In addition, a separate “Rotation
Coil” is fitted and this corrects image
rotation and horizontal trapezoidal
distortion.
The TMCS in some models is automatic but in others you can adjust
it with an on-screen menu until the
colour purity is correct.
Anyway, predictably, the Sony TV
didn’t respond to the upside down
treatment and eventually arrived at my
workshop. This time, there was an additional rider on the fault symptoms.
Previously, it would go white then
fold to a horizontal line before cutting
off. However, it was going to a vertical
line before cutting off inside one hour
of being turned on (these being the
www.siliconchip.com.au
symptoms for vertical and horizontal
timebase failure respectively).
The first problem I had was to try
and get some service information on
this set, so I surfed the net for answers.
Eventually I found out that SCCQO3A-A translates into a 1998 68cm
FE-1 chassis made in Spain.
Service mode
Next, I discovered how to get into
the “Service Mode” – ie, go to the
Standby Mode and press the i+, 5,
vol+ and TV buttons on the RM-883
remote control. This is slightly different from most Sonys, which substitute
the “TV” button in this sequence for
the “Power” button. You would have
thought the set would switch on as
soon as you pressed “5” but it doesn’t
in this sequence.
From the on-screen data menu, I
discovered the software to be v5.54-00,
the factory data FFh6Ch, the destination K and the text language as EAST
(TV Status), as well as Status Reg 1 =
11001101 and Status Reg 2 = 10000001
(Technical).
The instructions said that there is
a Test Mode 2, which is available by
pressing “TEST” button 13 twice on
the remote to produce “TT On Screen
Display”. The only problem is that
there isn’t a “TEST” button, nor “13”. I
tried 1 and 3 together and in sequence
but it made no difference.
When you enter the Service Mode,
the following OSD message appears:
1-AY-C-TT- - - - - - - - -K E
and if you key in any two numbers,
they will appear after the TT accompanied by a change in the picture (eg,
13 makes the picture darker). “MENU”
enables a Test menu and to get into
the diagnostic mode, you press i+, 5,
vol– and TV. This produces a table of
errors and their frequency, plus the
set’s on-time duration.
In this case, I had 69 x error 2
December 2003 41
Serviceman’s Log – continued
(protection circuit trip), 24 x error 5
(AKB), 1 x error 8 (jungle controller,
no I2C acknowledge at Power On), 3
x error 9 (Tuner, no acknowledge at
Power On), 3 x error 10 (sound processor, no acknowledge at Power On).
The set had been running for 008905h
49m since 1998.
I cleared the error buffer with 80 and
then switched the set on and waited for
results. Naturally, I wasn’t able to sit
there for an hour, waiting for the fault
to appear, so I left it in a prominent
place in the hope that I would observe
something when it did happen. Of
course, I was somewhere else when
the fault finally did occur. I returned
to find that the set was dead, with the
front-panel LED flashing twice every
second.
I turned it off and on again and it
switched straight back onto a perfect
sound and picture, the Service Mode
now showing an “Error 2”.
Next, I removed the chassis and
examined it carefully for anything
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issues H SILICON CHIP logo printed in goldcoloured lettering on spine & cover
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them postage free.
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5644 & quote your credit card number.
42 Silicon Chip
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obvious before thoroughly
resoldering it from “stem
to stern”. That done, the
set was reassembled and
placed on a prolonged
soak test.
The set then worked perfectly
for a whole week. But then just as
I had quoted for the repair and made
an appointment to return the set, the
fault (error 2) reoccurred. This fault
then reoccurred three more times, each
over four hours apart.
My next line of attack was to
monitor the +135V rail with a digital
multimeter that has peak-hold to see
if it increased over the next few hours.
However, this didn’t reveal anything
as the meter kept timing off but I
was fairly happy that this wasn’t the
problem area.
In the meantime, the client, on my
suggestion, came up with an unofficial
modification they had got from somewhere in the old country. It involved
cutting the ground track to one of the
filaments of the CRT, both on the CRT
board C and the deflection board (A)
around the flyback transformer, thus
completely isolating the picture tube
heaters and apparently “discarding
its overcurrent protection” – though I
don’t quite see why in this case.
The LED flashing twice indicates a
fault in the secondary excess-current
protection in the line output stage. If
the current increases across R572, the
extra voltage (1.2V) switches on Q571
and Q574. The resulting signal is then
applied to pin 18 of the jungle chip
(IC301) and pin 52 of microprocessor
IC001, which switches the set off.
Apparently, if there is a flashover
or irregular short inside the CRT (eg,
a heater to cathode short), the voltage
across the filaments increases with
respect to ground. This causes excess
current to flow through the flyback
transformer and switches the set off
as described above.
Anyway, I did the modification
while not expecting too much but was
pleasantly surprised when it was still
operating over 72 hours (continuously) later. The set was then returned
to its owner with the rider that the
picture tube could be on the way out.
Subsequently, I have found similar
modifications in some Sony TVs to desensitise the current protection circuit
by changing the 1Ω feed resistor (R572)
to the line output stage to 0.56Ω.
I think it would be a great help if
www.siliconchip.com.au
I could just get a copy of this circuit
from Sony.
Wide-screen Philips TV
A large wide-screen Philips TV
greeted me one Monday morning, as I
stared at my once vacant bench sipping
my coffee. How it got there over the
weekend I don’t know but I suspect
Mrs-she-who-has-to-be-obeyed had a
hand in it.
Anyway, this beautiful state-ofthe-art (1995) 76cm Philips 32PW9631/05, fully imported from Belgium
and expensive, was dead. Could I do
a Lazarus on her?
I removed the large back to be
confronted with a pile of electronic
circuitry that was being eaten alive by
that dreadful cancer called salt corrosion. Still, on the bright side, it wasn’t
completely dead – the front stand-by
LED was flickering.
The chassis number printed on the
back said S5GFL2.30E which I translated to be GFL2.30E.
My next step was to try to determine
how far the power was getting into the
set but the chassis was unfamiliar and
the access wasn’t the best. I ordered a
service manual but unfortunately it
arrived with two pages missing which,
as it turned out, contained critical
information.
www.siliconchip.com.au
After I had discovered the concealed
screws and clips (and breaking only
a few), I managed to lower the large
turret on the right (Audio Amplifier
A Board, IO Dolby U Board, AFU Z
Board, and ECO Low Power Standby
AU Board). I also discovered how to
lower the Service Selection Board I.
That done, I tackled the “Large
Signal Panel” where I discovered that
the +141V was cut off from the line
output transistor via the line switch
FET (7480). This, in turn, is controlled
by the “Slow-down” and “Fast-down”
protection circuits, the former coming
from the “Small Signal Panel” (SSP)
via plug S/L11 (pin 21). However,
all was revealed when I examined
the small signal panel. This board is
double-sided with very fine tracks and
it was very corroded. Similarly, the
Teletext board (AQ) and the Source
Selector (I) were also corroded.
I removed the SSP and saw that it
was probably beyond economic repair.
I then tried to obtain a new or exchange
board from Philips but it is no longer
available. And so, after a “heart-toheart” with the customer, and a lot of
crying on their part over the expense,
they agreed that they would pay me
to repair this panel.
First, I removed it and washed
it in hot water to remove the salt. I
December 2003 43
Serviceman’s Log – continued
then use Nifti to remove the dirt and
grease before thoroughly drying it.
That done, I washed it in “metho”,
after which the board was thoroughly
cleaned using a professional PC-board
cleaner solvent. Finally, I left a very
fine spray of CRC 2-26 all over the
board surfaces which I then blew off
with an air-compressor.
Next, I got out my continuity tester
and checked what felt like thousands
of interconnections across and through
this double-sided board, fitting links
where necessary. The two worst were
the corroded connections from S31
pin 1 (+5V standby) to the I/O board
and the Power-On Reset line between
Q7214 and R3205. Once I had repaired
these two, I was able to power up the
set and get a picture!
However, the picture was very poor
with no sound. There was east-west
distortion and the picture-in-picture
(PIP) was barely working.
To diagnose this problem, I first
connected service pins 2 and 1 on
socket S98 on the SSP to get into the
“Service Alignment Mode”. This gave
all sorts of information, including the
Operating Hours, ID, Option Codes
and Error Codes, plus alignment details. It also reported Error 013, IC7814
TMP47P443VN, which is on the I/O
module (I).
Unfortunately, this was the start of a
huge amount of time wasting from misinterpreted data. I followed up each of
the remaining four faults, looking for
possible shared causes like missing
power rails and corroded tracks, etc
but got nowhere.
Sound problem
The “no-sound” problem should
have been the easiest fault to locate.
Indeed, it started well when I traced
the sound from the tuner (F) to the
stereo decoder and from there to the
sound processing circuitry. I was then
able to trace the sound via the source
selection switching and all the way to
the AFU module (Z).
Personally, I thought I was particularly brilliant to do this, considering
very few of the circuits in the service
manual I had exactly corresponded to
the circuits in the set. But now I was
really stumped because I had nothing
on the AFU (Audio Feature Unit) at all,
as the pages were missing. That really
made things difficult, as this is a large
module containing eight ICs for Dolby
Surround Sound before continuing
onto the “Dynamic Enhancement”
circuitry and audio amplifiers (plus
headphone amplifiers).
As for the other problems, the eastwest circuitry was only just working
and the digital software controls had
little effect. And the picture-in-picture
was not centred and only half there.
I was about to give up in disgust after
all the effort I had put into this repair
when I had a bit of luck. Stuck on the
picture tube are the option codes for
each variation of this set and I noticed
that the numbers didn’t correlate with
the model I had on the bench. Initially,
I didn’t think that this meant much but,
lacking any other ideas, I wrote down
the ones programmed into my set and
then programmed the numbers from
the label into the set.
And would you believe it? – after
storing them and restarting the set, all
these faults were fixed simultaneously,
apart from a little fine tuning. Perhaps
this set is just a little too smart for its
own good!
Dealer service tool
Finally, the service manual makes
frequent references to a “Dealer Service Tool”. This is a very special 2-way
remote control (RC7150) that can interrogate and diagnose dead sets! And
it can automatically program them as
well! However, this tool is just too
expensive for me and is not readily
SC
available.
New From
SILICON C
HIP
THE PROJECTS: High-Energy Universal Ignition System; High-Energy
Multispark CDI System; Programmable Ignition Timing Module; Digital
Speed Alarm & Speedometer; Digital Tachometer With LED Display;
Digital Voltmeter (12V or 24V); Blocked Filter Alarm; Simple Mixture
Display For Fuel-Injected Cars; Motorbike Alarm; Headlight Reminder;
Engine Immobiliser Mk.2; Engine Rev Limiter; 4-Channel UHF Remote
Control; LED Lighting For Cars; The Booze Buster Breath Tester; Little
Dynamite Subwoofer; Neon Tube Modulator.
ON SALE AT SELECTED NEWSAGENTS
Mail order prices:
Aust: $14.95 (incl. GST & P&P)
NZ/Asia Pacific: $18.00 via airmail
Rest of World: $21.50 via airmail
Or order by phoning (02) 9979 5644 & quoting your credit card number; or fax the details to (02) 9979 6503; or mail
your order with cheque or credit card details to Silicon Chip Publications, PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097.
44 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
www.jaycar.com.au
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
Hong Kong Electronics Show
bounces back from SARS
In spite of the big setback from SARS
earlier in the year, Hong Kong has
bounced back in a big way to host a
very successful electronics trade fair,
show-casing products from mainland
China and the rest of the world.
Even though the Hong Kong Lighting
Fair had been split off into a show of
its own, the 2003 electronics trade
fair was bigger than last year with
1950 exhibitors and 48,291 buyers.
If that was not enough, the atmosphere
of optimism was boosted even
further by the announcement of the
CEPA (Closer Economic Partnership
Arrangement). This is a free trade
agreement between Hong Kong and
China which represents a significant
market liberalisation and preferential
access to China’s market for all
companies incorporated and operating
in Hong Kong.
No doubt Hong Kong (Kowloon),
presently the world’s second biggest
harbour and container terminal, is
set to see enormous growth in years
to come.
While a great
deal of the show
was devoted to
domestic electrical
and
electronic
equipment, there
was an astonishing
range of electronic
equipment of all
types, as well as a
very diverse range
of semiconductor
and
passive
Fujifilm’s USB ‘Thumb’ Drive
Fujifilm has introduced the xD
Picture Card USB ‘Thumb’ drive –
an ultra compact USB card reader
that can be used exclusively with
the xD Picture Card which comes
as an accessory with every Fujifilm
FinePix digital camera.
The $59.95 (rrp inc GST) pocket-sized USB card reader inserts directly into a personal computer’s USB slot
enabling images to be easily saved on
a PC without any major procedures.
It eliminates the need to connect your
entire camera to a computer – instead
it allows you to use the card as if it
were part of your computer.
In addition to capturing photos, the
xD Picture Card can also store presentations, reports or any other documents which can then be conveniently
uploaded to a computer.
www.siliconchip.com.au
electronic componentry.
Some of the interesting new stuff
included organic LED displays (See
SILICON CHIP, August 2003), all sorts
of digital cameras, MP3 players,
USB storage and peripheral items,
2.4GHz video/audio links and a wide
range of mobile phone and Bluetooth
accessories.
As was the case in 2002, Hong Kong
never fails to impress with the vitality
of its people and its economy and the
general impression that everything is
possible and “will be done”.
STEPDOWN
TRANSFORMERS
The drive is compatible with all
Fujifilm xD Picture Cards currently
available, ranging in size from 16MB
up to 512MB.
No driver software is required
for Win ME, 2000, XP or Macintosh
systems. Driver software for Win 98
or 98SE can be downloaded from the
Fujifilm Worldwide Website at www.
fujifilm.com
60VA to 3KVA encased toroids
Contact:
Hanimex
114 Old Pittwater Rd, Brookvale NSW 2100
Tel: 02 9466 2600 Fax: 02 9938 1975
Website: www.hanimex.com.au
Harbuch Electronics Pty Ltd
9/40 Leighton Pl. HORNSBY 2077
Ph (02) 9476-5854 Fx (02) 9476-3231
December 2003 53
AV Switching Unit for Home Theatre
With so many AV sources these days
– DVD players, VCRs, game consoles,
satellite receivers and so, what happens if you run out of AV inputs on
your TV or Home Theatre system?
You’re faced with two options – the
expense of buying another unit that
can handle more inputs or be constantly forced to pull cables in and
out of equipment which is not only
an inconvenience but over time it can
damage plugs and leads.
The new A-3070 remote control
switcher from Altronics could be a
simple inexpensive solution. It can
add 3 more inputs to your system and
let you to switch between them (via
remote or front panel).
It features input connections for
connectors for SVHS, optical and RCA
making it suitable for most common
connections in modern hi-fi and home
theatre systems.
The A-03070 is not only versatile
for hi-fi installs it could also be used
to connect security cameras to your
television. It’s a cheap and effective
way of installing your own video
surveillance.
The A-3070 has an RRP of $149
and is available from Altronics directly or one of their dealers around
the country.
Contact:
Altronic Distributors
Tel: 1300 797 007
Website: www.altronics.com.au
Disaster Recovery from PowerQuest
Many small businesses lack the
enterprise-class machine room environments and expensive robotic tape
libraries which are viewed as essential
to best-in-class data protection. Others
may have small IT budgets or have
implemented backup solutions that
may not provide sufficient protection.
Because of this, small businesses are
at risk of critical system outages and
data loss
PowerQuest Corporation, a global
provider of deployment and recovery
solutions, announces PowerQuest V2i
Protector 2.0 Small Business Edition,
the latest version of its popular diskbased backup and disaster recovery
solution for Windows servers.
V2i Protector 2.0 Small Business
Edition creates compressed backup
images of a server’s volumes—including operating system, server settings
and preferences—that can be used to
restore system and data volumes, or
individual files and folders, in minutes, as opposed to the hours it can
take using traditional backup methods.
Windows NT, 2000, 2003 and Small
Business Server are supported, giving small to medium-size businesses
an easy-to-use and more affordable
54 Silicon Chip
solution to automate system and data
protection.
Backup images can be saved directly
to any network storage device such as
a RAID array, NAS or SAN. It can also
mount backup image files as read-only
network or workstation drives that can
be shared to other network users.
Contact:
PowerQuest Australia
Level 67, MLC Centre Martin Place
Sydney, NSW 2000
Tel: 02 9521 6466 Fax 02 9521 6995
Website: www.powerquest.com
Classic “Eddystone”
die-cast cases
World-famous “Eddystone” die-cast
cases are now being marketed in Australia by Hammond Electronics, one of
the world’s leading manufacturers of
small die-cast aluminium and plastic
enclosures.
Probably one of the best known
brands in the small enclosure sector,
the Eddystone range consists of nine
sizes of thin wall, shallow lid, general
purpose die-cast aluminium enclosures and a further five variants fitted
with a deep lid.
Hammond’s Australian operation
is a manufacturer in its own right and
has introduced a further three Australian-designed and manufactured cases
to complement the original 14-strong
family. The new sizes are 50 x 50 x 21,
92 x 92 x 38 and 125 x 125 x 53mm.
Contact:
Hammond Electronics
GPO Box 812, Adelaide, SA 5001
Tel: 08 0825 0744 Fax (08) 9356 3652
Website: www.hammondmfg.com
A PC for $39?
No, it’s not a misprint! You can
buy a real, live, operational PC for
just $39.00 from Oatley Electronics. You get a full 366MHz Celeron
computer system with just about
everything you need except memory, hard disk and a case. It even has
a dual redundant power supply, a
CD-ROM drive and a Sound Blaster
Vibra 16X sound card. Most of those
on their own would cost you more
than $39!
OK, so they’re not brand new –
Oatley describe them as “hardly
used” – but waddya expect for under
forty bucks?
Needless to say, with no hard disk
there is no operating system or drivers. And they’re while stocks last!
Contact:
Oatley Electronics
Tel: 02 9584 3563 Fax: 02 9584 3561
Website: www.oatleyelectronics.com
www.siliconchip.com.au
SILICON CHIP WebLINK
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Here's an exciting new concept from SILICON CHIP: you can access any of these organisations instantly by going
to the SILICON CHIP website (www.siliconchip.com.au), clicking on WebLINK and then on the website graphic of
the company you’re looking for. It’s that simple. No longer do you have to wade through search engines or look
through pages of indexes – just point’n’click and the site you want will open!
Your company or business can be a part of SILICON CHIP’s WebLINK . For one low rate you receive a printed entry
each month on the SILICON CHIP WebLINK page with your home page graphic, company name, phone, fax and site
details plus up to 50 words of description– and this is repeated on the WebLINK page on the SILICON CHIP website
with the link of your choice active. Get those extra hits on your site from the right people in the electronics
industry – the people who make decisions to buy your products. Call SILICON CHIP today on (02) 9979 5644
Our website is updated daily, with over
5,500 products available through our secure
online ordering facility.
Features include semiconductor data sheets,
media releases, software downloads, and
much more
JAYCAR
JAYCAR ELECTRONICS
ELECTRONICS
Tel:
Tel: 1800
1800 022
022 888
888
WebLINK: www.jaycar.com.au
WebLINK:
www.jaycar.com.au
BitScope
is an
Open
Design
Digital
OscillosBitScope
is an
Open
Design
Digital
Oscillos-cope
cope
andAnalyser.
Logic Analyser.
PC software
drives
and
Logic
PC software
drives BitScope
BitScope
via USB,
Ethernet
or RS232
to
via USB,
Ethernet
or RS232
to create
a powerful
createInstrument.
a powerful BitScope
Virtual Instrument.
Virtual
is availableBitScope
built and
is available
tested ortechnical
in kit form.
tested
or in kit built
form.and
Exten-sive
details
Extensive
details are
available
on the
are
availabletechnical
on the website.
Great
for hobbyists,
website.university
Great for labs
hobbyists,
university
and industry. labs
and industry.
BitScope Designs
Contact: sales<at>bitscope.com
Contact: sales<at>bitscope.com
WebLINK: bitscope.com
WebLINK: bitscope.com
A 100% Australian owned company supplying
frequency control products to the highest
international standards: filters, DIL’s, voltage,
temperature compensated and oven controlled
oscillators, monolithic and discrete filters and
ceramic filters and resonators.
Hy-Q International Pty Ltd
Tel:(03) 9562-8222 Fax: (03) 9562 9009
WebLINK: www.hy-q.com.au
JED designs and manufactures a range of
single board computers (based on Wilke Tiger
and Atmel AVR), as well as LCD displays and
analog and digital I/O for PCs and controllers.
JED also makes a PC PROM programmer and
RS232/RS485 converters.
Jed Microprocessors Pty Ltd
Tel: (03) 9762 3588 Fax: (03) 9762 5499
WebLINK: jedmicro.com.au
· Hifi upgrades & modification products - jitter
reduction and output stage improvement.
· Danish high-end hifi kits - including pre- amps,
phono, power amps & accessories.
· Speaker drivers including Danish Flex Units plus
a range of accessories.
Soundlabs Group
Syd: (02) 9660-1228 Melb: (03) 9859-0388
WebLINK: soundlabsgroup.com.au
International satellite TV reception in your
home is now affordable. Send for your free
info pack containing equipment catalog,
satellite lists, etc or call for appointment
to view. We can display all satellites from
76.5° to 180°.
Av-COMM Pty Ltd
Tel:(02) 9939 4377 Fax: (02) 9939 4376
Tel:(02)
WebLINK: avcomm.com.au
WebLINK:
avcomm.com.au
We specialise in providing a range of
Low Power Radio solutions for OEM’s to
incorporate in their wireless technology
based products. The innovative range
includes products from Radiometrix, the
World’s leading manufacturer.
TeleLink Communications
Tel:(07) 4934 0413 Fax: (07) 4934 0311
WebLINK: telelink.com.au
“World Class” Power Amplifier
:
g
h
n
i ont
m
o
C tM
Nex
Following the outstanding success
of our SC480 power amplifier module
published in January & February 2003, we’ve
taken some of the lessons learned there and from
our Ultra-LD series and applied them to a much bigger
power amplifier which pushes the performance boundaries
to new limits.
New high voltage low noise transistors make it incredibly quiet,
while the eight 250V 200W plastic power transistors allow it to
deliver 200 watts into 8 ohms and 350 watts into 4 ohms. Music
power is even more impressive: 240 watts into 8 ohms and a
massive 480 watts into 4 ohms.
www.siliconchip.com.au
We’ve also used the best available driver transistors and PC
board distortion-cancelling topology to obtain a world-class distortion performance which is
easily reproducible, just by
following the wiring layout
diagrams. In terms of performance per dollar (bang
for your bucks), this has
to be one of our best ever
amplifier modules.
Don’t miss this issue, on
sale late December.
December 2003 55
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions from
readers are welcome and will be paid for at standard rates.
Simple 6-input
alarm circuit
monitors the detector cir
cuit for
negative-going signals. When a
switch is closed, a brief negative-going pulse is applied to pin 2 via a
10μF capacitor and its corresponding series diode (D2-D7). This triggers IC1 which switches its pin 3
output high and switches off relay
RLY1 (ie, RLY1 is normally on).
As a result, the piezo siren sounds
for the duration of the monostable
period. In addition, relay RLY2 is
turned on via diode D9 and latches on via D10. This means that
the strobe light (which is wired to
the normally open contact) will
Courtesy light
extender
locking and does two more things.
First, when an unlock signal is
received, it turns on the courtesy
light for 15-20 seconds before you
open the door. Second, when a lock
signal is received, it turns off the
courtesy light immediately, with no
fade-out. This is done to eliminate
false triggering of the burglar alarm
This simple alarm circuit was
designed for use in a com
bined
garage and rumpus room. It can be
assembled on Veroboard and uses
just one IC plus a handful of cheap
components.
The circuit is based on a straightforward 555 timer circuit (IC1). This
is wired as a monostable and sets
the siren period which is adjustable
up to about three minutes using
potentiometer VR1.
In operation, IC1’s pin 2 input
In essence, this circuit is a 15 to
20-second courtesy light extender
for cars. It is activated in the usual
way by opening a door but it also
samples the negative lock/unlock
signals from a car alarm or central
56 Silicon Chip
continue to flash until the alarm is
switched off (via the keyswitch).
At the end of the monostable period, RLY1 turns off and this turns
off the piezo siren. The circuit can
then be retriggered by any further
trigger inputs from the switches.
A variety of detectors with normally open contacts can be used
for the switches, including reed
switches, pressure mats, IR detectors and glass breakage detectors.
All switches must be open before
the alarm is switched on.
R. Love,
Highbury SA. ($40)
through current drain sensing.
When a car door is open or the
unlock relay is activated, the 33μF
capacitor discharges through diode
D1 and this keeps transistor Q1
turned off. This allows Q2 and Q3
to turn on and the courtesy lamp
is activated.
When the door is closed, the
www.siliconchip.com.au
Battery replacement
power supply
Your child’s battery toy has failed
and you have to fix it. Once you
have managed to get it apart, the
battery compartment is not likely
to be connected to the works or the
batteries might have gone flat anyway. The solution is this switchable
supply which is designed to replace
courtesy lamps stay illuminated
and the 33μF electrolytic capacitor
starts charging through the associated 1MΩ resistor. As the voltages
rises, Q1 turns on slowly, turning off
Q2 and Q3 which gradually fades
www.siliconchip.com.au
from one to six dry cells. It is not
intended to replace the batteries on
a permanent basis, as in most cases
this is not practical.
The heart of the supply is an
LM317T adjustable 3-terminal reg-ulator and six trimpots selected
by switch S1b. The other pole of
the switch, S1a, is used to select
taps on the transformer secondary,
to minimise power dissipation in
the LM317T. The table shows the
trimpot settings for the six voltage
outputs.
Diode D1 and the 10μF capacitor
and the LED provide power indication. This has the advantage of constant brightness which would not be
obtained if the LED was run from
the unregulated switchable DC.
Philip Button,
West Moonah, Tas. ($35)
out the courtesy lamp.
If a lock signal from the central
locking system is received, relay
1 closes and charges the capacitor
instantly, so the lamp turns off
immediately.
Relays were used to interface to
the central locking/alarm system as
a safety feature, to provide isolation
in case something goes wrong.
Matt Downey,
Marleston, SA. ($35)
December 2003 57
Circuit Notebook – continued
Automatic headlight
reminder
Do you drive an older car without
an automatic “lights-on” warning
circuit? If so, you’ve probably
accidentally left the lights on and
flattened the battery on one or more
occasions.
This headlights reminder circuit
will prevent that. It’s more complicated than other circuits but it’s also
more versatile.
As shown, the circuit uses two
low-cost ICs. IC1 is a 555 timer
which is wired to operate in astable mode. Its output clocks IC2, a
4017B decade counter. IC2 in turn
CONTRIBUTE
AND WIN!
As you can see, we pay good
money for each of the “Circuit
Notebook” contributions published in SILICON CHIP. But now
there’s an even better reason to
58 Silicon Chip
drives a row of indicator LEDs and
also resets IC1 (after about 10s) via
transistor Q2.
The circuit works like this: when
the ignition is on, transistor Q1 is
also on and this pulls pin 4 of IC1
low. As a result, IC1 is held reset and
no clock pulses are fed to IC2.
Conversely, if the ignition is
turned off, Q1 will turn off and so
IC1 will start oscillating and sound
the piezo siren. At the same time,
IC1 will clock IC2 and so LEDs
1-10 will light in sequence and
stop (after about 10s) with the last
LED (LED10) remaining on. That’s
because, when IC2’s O9 output (ie,
pin 11) goes high, Q2 also turns
on and this pulls pin 4 of IC1 low,
thus stopping the oscillator (and
the siren).
Note that different coloured
LEDs are used to make the display
look eye-catching but you make all
LEDs the same colour if you wish.
Installing optional diode D1 will
alter IC1’s frequency and this will
alter the display rate.
Finally, if the lights are turned off
and then back on again, the alarm
will automatically retrigger. LED1 is
always on if the lights are turned on.
If you don’t want the LED display,
just leave the LEDs out.
L. Marshall,
Barrack Point, NSW. ($40)
send in your circuit idea: each
month, the best contribution
published will win a superb
Peak Atlas LCR Meter valued
at $195.00.
So don’t keep that brilliant
circuit secret any more: sketch
it out, write a brief description
and send it to SILICON CHIP and
you could be a winner!
www.siliconchip.com.au
www.siliconchip.com.au
December 2003 59
In normal suburban driving
you pass through so many different speed zones that it can be a
nuisance having to switch speed
settings. The speed display can
also be a distraction. This circuit
eliminates the display and the
need for speed selection. Each
time you exceed a particular speed
setting (eg, 40km/h, 50km/h, etc),
a piezo buzzer will beep.
Speed pulses are fed to the base
Speed alarm
for cars
of Q1 and the resulting waveform at
its collector is fed via an RC network
to the input of an LM2917 frequency-to-voltage converter, IC1. The
resulting voltage is fed to three comparators (IC2d-IC2b) which have the
reference voltages at their inverting
inputs set by 10-turn trimpots VR1,
VR2 & VR3.
The output of each comparator
is applied via another RC network
to the gate of an SCR. The anodes
of the three SCRs are commoned
connected to the inverting input of
the remaining comparator, IC2a. Its
non-inverting input is set to +2.3V
by trimpot VR4.
In use, once you exceed the speed
setting for a particular comparator,
its associated SCR briefly conducts
to pull pin 2 of IC2a low and a
short beep is emitted by the piezo
buzzer. Then, as you exceed the
next speed setting, another beep
will be heard.
The idea is make each speed setting
a few km/h higher than actual so that if
you are driving at the correct speed in a
given zone, the buzzer will not sound.
But as you increase speed, the buzz-
er will beep
Col Edw
once as you
a
i
s
this mo rds
exceed the
winner nth’s
speed setPeak At of the
ting for
las L
each zone.
Meter CR
In this way,
there is no need
to continually switch
speed settings as you drive
through different zones and you
can choose to ignore beeps that
are not “illegal”.
Col Edwards,
Rosslea, Qld.
In this third part of our short PC board design feature,
we look at the “other layers” which make up a PC board,
along with more advanced layouts and ways to make your
board acceptable to manufacturers.
Part 3 – by David L. Jones
I
f you ask most hobbyists and even
many professionals what constitutes a PC board, they’d probably
say the copper tracks and the base on
which they are etched. But there is
often much more to a PC board than
that. For a start, there are other layers.
And we are not just talking about double-sided or multi-layer boards, either.
Silk screen
The “silk screen” layer is also
known as the “component overlay” or
“component layer”. It is the layer on
the top of your board (and bottom if
needed) that contains the component
outlines, designators (C1, R1 etc) and
free text. This is printed on your board
using a silk screening process. White is
a standard colour but other colours are
available upon request. You can even
mix and match colours on the one board
but that usually costs extra.
When designing your board, make
sure that you keep all your component
designators the same text (font) size
and oriented in the same direction.
When laying out your own component
footprints, where possible, make sure
that you add a component overlay that
reflects the actual size of your component. This way you will be able to tell at
a glance how close you can physically
position your components. Ensure that
60 Silicon Chip
all polarised components are marked
and that pin 1 is identified.
Your silk screen layer will be the
most inaccurately aligned of all your
layers, so don’t rely on it for any
positional accuracy. Ensure that no
part of the silk screen overlaps a bare
pad. Apart from printing limitations
and readability, there is no minimum
width requirement for lines on the
component overlay, so feel free to use
smaller lines and text sizes to fit things
in. If parts of the text or lines don’t
turn out perfectly on your board then
it does not affect your design, unlike
tracks and pads.
To avoid clutter, some designers
don’t put component values on the
silk screen, just the component designator. SILICON CHIP takes the opposite
approach and uses the component
values, not designators. This latter
approach means that anyone checking
the board does not have to refer back
to the circuit or parts list to find the
component values.
Solder Mask
A solder mask is a thin polymer
coating on the board which covers
everything except the pads. and helps
prevent solder from bridging between
pins and tracks.
This is essential for surface mount
and fine pitch devices. Your PC board
program will automatically remove
solder mask from the pads.
The gap it leaves between the pad
and the solder mask is known as the
“mask expansion”. The mask expansion should usually be set to at least a
few thou. Be careful not to make it too
big or there might be no solder mask
between very fine pitch devices.
Your solder mask is displayed in
your PC board package as a negative
image, just like the power plane. Under normal circumstances you don’t
“Inside” a multilayer PC board – in
this case, four layers.
Note the “vias”
which connect all
the layers together.
www.siliconchip.com.au
need to put anything on your solder
mask layer.
But if you want to leave the solder
mask off a certain part of your board,
you can place tracks and fills on your
solder mask layer.
Solder masks come in two types,
silk screen or “photo imageable”.
Photo imageable masks provide better resolution and alignment and are
preferred over silk-screened. You can
get different colour solder masks but
the standard colour is green.
On most standard quality boards,
the solder mask is laid directly over
the bare copper tracks. This is known
as Solder Mask Over Bare Copper or
SMOBC. You can get other coatings
over your tracks in addition to the
solder mask but these are usually for
fairly exotic applications.
Mechanical Layer
The mechanical layer (which may go
under other names depending on the
package) is used to provide an outline
for your board and other manufacturing instructions.
It is not part of your actual PC board
design but is very useful to tell the PC
board manufacturer how you want
your board assembled. There are no
hard and fast rules for this layer. Use
it however you like; just make sure
www.siliconchip.com.au
you tell your PC board manufacturer.
Keepout
The keepout layer generally defines
areas on your board that you don’t
want auto or manually routed. This
can include clearance areas around
mounting hole pads or high voltage
components, for instance.
Layer Alignment
When the PC board manufacturer
makes your board, there will be alignment tolerances on the artwork film for
each layer. This includes track, plane,
silkscreen, solder mask and drilling. If
you don’t allow for this in your design
and make your tolerances too fine, you
can end up in big trouble.
Consult the manufacturer for what
alignment tolerances they can achieve,
and also what alignment tolerance you
are paying for!
Netlists
A netlist is essentially a list of connections (“nets”) which correspond to
your schematic. It also contains the list
of components, component designators, component footprints and other
information related to your schematic.
The netlist file can be generated by
your schematic package.
Generating a netlist is also called
“schematic capture”.
Your PC board package can then
import this netlist file and do many
things. It can automatically load all
the required components onto your
blank board. It can also assign a “net”
name to each of your component pins.
With nets assigned to your PC board
components, it is now possible to Auto
Route, do Design Rule Checking and
display component connectivity. This
is the fundamental concept behind
modern Schematic and PC board CAD
packages.
Rat’s Nest
Your job of component placement
will be made infinitely easier by
having a “rats nest” display enabled.
If there is one reason for going to the
trouble of drawing up an accurate
schematic and importing a netlist, this
is surely it. For large designs, a rat’s
nest display is essential.
A rat’s nest display is one where the
program will draw a straight line (not a
track) between the pads of components
which are connected on the schematic.
In effect, it shows the connectivity of
your circuit before you start laying out
tracks. At the start of your board layout,
with all your components placed down
randomly, this will appear as a huge
and complicated random maze of lines.
December 2003 61
Hence the name “rat’s nest”.
The rat’s nest may look very daunting at first but when you move each
component the lines will automatically move with them. In this way you
can see instantly which components
are connected to which, without
having to refer back to the schematic
and constantly cross-reference component designators. Once you have
used this feature, you won’t want to
live without it
With the rat’s nest display enabled,
it will be almost possible to lay out all
of your components optimally in no
time, without having to lay down one
single track. The rat’s nest display will
effectively show you what your tracks
will connect to. The rat’s nest lines
should disappear when you route your
tracks between components, so your
design will get less and less “complicated looking” as you go along. When
all the rat’s nest lines disappear, your
board is fully routed.
make changes to your existing PC
board layout via the schematic editor.
The program will take your schematic
netlist and component designators
and import them into your PC board
design and make any relevant changes.
Some packages will also automatically
remove old PC board tracks that are no
longer connected. You can do this at
any time during your PC board layout.
If you update your schematic, then
you must forward annotate into your
PC board design. You can do edits like
this manually but forward annotation
automates the process.
Back Annotation is when you
change one of the component designators (eg, C1 to C2) on your PC board
and then automatically update this
information back into your Schematic.
More advanced back annotation features allow you to swap gates on chips
and perform other electrical changes.
There should never be much real need
to use back annotation.
Design rule checking
Multi-layer PC board design
Design Rule Checking (DRC) allows
you to automatically check your PC
board design for connectivity, clearance and other manufacturing errors.
With the large and complex PC boards
being designed today, it is impractical
to manually check a PC board design.
This is where the DRC comes into its
own; it is an absolutely essential step
in professional PC board design.
Examples of what you can check
with a DRC are:
- Circuit connectivity. It checks that
every track on your board matches the
connectivity of your schematic.
- Electrical clearance. You can
check the clearance between tracks,
pads and components.
- Manufacturing tolerances like
min/max hole sizes, track widths,
via widths, annulus sizes and short
circuits.
A complete DRC is usually performed after you have finished your
PC board. Some packages even have
the ability to do “real time” (or “online”) DRC checking as you create your
board. For instance, it won’t let you
connect a track to a pad it shouldn’t
go to, or violate a clearance between
track and pad. If you have real-time
DRC capability, use it; it’s an invaluable tool.
A multi-layer PC board is much
more expensive and difficult to manufacture than a single or double-sided
board but it really does give a lot of
extra density to route power and signal
tracks. By having signals running on
the inside layers of the board, you can
pack components more tightly to give
a more compact design.
Deciding to go from double-sided to
multi-layer can be a big decision, so
make sure that a multi-layer board is
warranted on the grounds of board size
and complexity. You can forget about
making multi-layer boards yourself - it
requires a commercial manufacturer.
Most of the hobby board suppliers will
not do multi-layer boards.
Multi-layer boards come in even
numbers of layers, with 4, 6 and
8-layer being the most common. With
a multi-layer board, you would typically dedicate one layer to a ground
plane and another to your power, with
perhaps a few signal tracks thrown on
the power layer if you need to. If you
have a digital-only board, then you’d
often dedicate the entire power layer
also. If you have room on the top or
bottom layer, you can route any additional power rail tracks on there.
Power layers are almost always in the
middle of the board, with the ground
closer to the top layer.
Once you have your power taken
care of on the inner layers, you’ll be
Forward and back annotation
Forward Annotation is when you
62 Silicon Chip
surprised at the room you now have
available for your signal tracks. It
really does open up a whole new dimension to routing.
If power planes are vital and you
have a lot of connections to route,
then you may have to move from four
to six layers. Six layers will give you
four full signal routing layers and two
layers dedicated to power. You can
really do some advanced routing with
six layers. Eight layers and above is
basically more of the same.
Multi-layer design brings the options of using different types of vias to
improve your routing density. There
are three types of vias - standard, blind
and buried. Standard vias go through
the whole board and can connect any
of the top, bottom or inner layers.
These can be wasteful of space on
layers which aren’t connected. “Blind”
vias go from the outside surface to one
of the inner layers only. The hole does
not protrude through the other side of
the board. The via is in effect “blind”
from the other side of the board.
“Buried” vias only connect two or
more inner layers, with no hole being
visible on the outside of the board. So
the hole is completely buried inside
your board.
Blind and buried vias cost more to
manufacture than standard vias. But
they are very useful and almost mandatory for very high-density designs
like those involving Ball Grid Array
(BGA) components.
Power planes
It is good practice to use “power
planes” to distribute power across
your board. Using power planes can
drastically reduce the power wiring
inductance and impedance to your
components. This can be vital for
high-speed digital design, for instance.
It is good design practice to use power
planes whenever possible. They can
even be used on double-sided boards,
if most of your signal tracks are on the
top layer.
A power plane is basically one solid
copper layer of board dedicated to
either the Ground or Power rails, or
both. Power planes go in the middle
layers of the board, usually on the
layers closest to the outer surfaces. On
a 4-layer board with complex power
requirements, it is common to dedicate
one layer to the ground plane and
another layer to various positive and
negative power tracks. The ground rail
www.siliconchip.com.au
is usually your signal reference line,
so a ground plane is first preference
before a power plane is considered.
Many PC board packages have
special Power Plane layers that are
designed and laid out in reverse to
the other normal tracking layers. On
a normal tracking layer, your board is
assumed to be blank and you then lay
down tracks which will become your
actual copper tracks. On a power plane
however, your board is assumed to be
covered with copper. Laying down
tracks on a power plane actually removes the copper. This concept can
take some getting used to.
A simple power plane will not have
any “tracks” (or removed copper bits)
at all on it but will just be one solid
layer of copper. In which case you
don’t need to lay down any tracks
to remove any copper. However, it is
common practice on more complex
boards to “split” the power plane by
laying down tracks. This may be done
to separate an analog and a digital
ground, which will reduce the amount
of digital ground noise which is coupled into the more sensitive analog
circuitry. A typical split power plane
would involve a “track” being placed
from near your input power connector
or main filter capacitors and the opposite edge of the board. Be careful not
to accidentally cause a power “loop”
on your board by inadvertently connecting the two halves of your plane
on the other side of the board.
As a matter of course, you should
place “tracks” completely around the
outer edge of your board. This will
ensure that the power planes do not
extend right to the edge of the board.
Power planes on the edges of your
board can not only short to one another
but also to any guide rails or mounting
hardware.
You don’t have to use the actual
Power Plane layer on your PC board
package if you don’t want to. You can
use a regular signal layer and lay down
copper fills and tracks yourself. Power
Planes layers though often have some
advantages that will vary from one PC
board package another.
practices to incorporate into any
design.
• Use copper, and lots of it. The more
copper you have in your ground path,
the lower the impedance. This is
highly desirable for many electrical
reasons. Use polygon fills and planes
where possible.
• Always dedicate one of your planes
to ground on multi-layer boards. Make
it the layer closest to the top layer.
• Run separate ground paths for
critical parts of your circuit, back to
the main filter capacitor(s). This is
known as “star” grounding, because
the ground tracks all run out from a
central point, often looking like a star.
In fact, try and do this as matter of
course, even if your components aren’t
critical. Separate ground lines keep
current and noise from one component
from affecting other components.
• If using a ground plane, utilise
“split” plane techniques to give effective star grounding.
• “stitch” required points straight
through to your ground plane; don’t
use any more track length than you
need.
• Use multiple vias to decrease your
trace impedance to ground.
Good bypassing
Active components and points in
your circuit which draw significant
switching current should always be
“bypassed”. This is to “smooth” out
your power rail going to a particular
device. “Bypassing” is using a capacitor across your power rails as physically and electrically close to the desired
component or point in your circuit as
possible. A typical bypass capacitor
value is 100nF (0.1uF), although other
values such as 1uF, 10nF and 1nF are
often used to bypass different frequen-
cies. You can even have two or three
different value capacitors in parallel.
When bypassing, you CANNOT
replace multiple capacitors with
one single capacitor; it defeats the
entire purpose of bypassing! It is not
uncommon for a large design to have
hundreds of bypass capacitors.
As a general rule, you should use
at least one bypass capacitor per IC or
other switching component if possible.
Common values of bypass capacitors
are 100nF for general purpose use,
10nF or 1nF for higher frequencies,
and 1uF or 10uF for low frequencies.
Special low Equivalent Series Resistance (ESR) capacitors are sometimes used on critical designs such as
switch mode power supplies.
HF design techniques
High frequency design is where you
really need to consider the effects of
parasitic inductance, capacitance and
impedance of your PC board layout. If
your signal is too fast, and your track
is too long, then the track can take on
the properties of a transmission line.
If you don’t use proper transmission
line techniques in these situations
then you can start to get reflections
and other signal integrity problems.
A “critical length” track is one in
which the propagation time of the
signal starts to get close to the length
of the track. On standard FR4 copper
boards, a signal will travel roughly
15cm every nanosecond. A rule of
thumb states that you need to get
really concerned when your track
length approaches half of this figure.
But in reality it can actually be much
less than this.
Remember that digital square wave
signals have a harmonic content, so a
100MHz square wave has harmonic
Good grounding
Grounding (or earthing) is fundamental to the operation of many
circuits. Good or bad grounding
techniques can make or break your
design. There are several grounding
techniques which are always good
www.siliconchip.com.au
December 2003 63
components extending into the GHz
region.
In high-speed design, the ground
plane is fundamental to preserving
the integrity of your signals and also
to reducing EMI emissions. It allows
you to create “controlled impedance”
traces, which match your electrical
source and load. It also allows you to
keep signals coupled “tight” to their
return path (ground).
There are many ways to create
controlled impedance “transmission”
lines on a PC board. But the two most
basic and popular ways are called
Microstrip and Stripline.
A Microstrip is simply a trace on
the top layer, with a ground plane
below. The calculation involved to
find the characteristic impedance of a
Microstrip is relatively complex. It is
based on the width and thickness of
the trace, the height above the ground
plane and the relative permittivity of
the PC board material. This is why it
is important to keep the ground plane
as close as possible to (usually) the
top layer.
A Stripline is similar to the Microstrip, but it has an additional
ground plane on top of the trace. So in
this case, the trace would have to be on
one of the inner layers. The advantage
of stripline over microstrip is that most
of the EMI radiation will be contained
within the ground planes.
There are many free programs and
spreadsheets available that will calculate all the variations of Microstrip
and Stripline for you.
Some useful information and rules
of thumb for high frequency design
are:
• Keep your high frequency signal
tracks as short as possible.
• Avoid running critical high frequency signal tracks over any cutout in your
ground plane. This causes discontinuity in the signal return path, and can
lead to EMI problems. Avoid cutouts in
your ground plane wherever possible.
A cutout is different to a split plane,
which is fine, provided you keep your
high frequency signal tracks over the
relevant continuous plane.
• Have one decoupling capacitor per
power pin.
• If possible, track the IC power pin
to the bypass capacitor first, and then
to the power plane. This will reduce
switching noise on your power plane.
For very high frequency designs,
taking your power pin directly to the
64 Silicon Chip
power plane provides lower inductance, which may be more beneficial
than lower noise on your plane.
• Be aware that vias will cause discontinuities in the characteristic impedance of a transmission line.
• To minimise crosstalk between two
traces above a ground plane, minimise the distance between the plane
and trace and maximise the distance
between traces. The coefficient of coupling between two traces is given by
1/(1+(Distance between traces / height
from plane)2).
• Smaller diameter vias have lower
parasitic inductance and are thus
preferred for higher frequency circuits.
• Do not connect your main power
input connector directly to your power planes; take it via your main filter
capacitor(s).
Double-sided loading
Loading components on both sides
of a PC board can have many benefits.
Indeed, it is becoming an increasingly
popular and necessary option when
laying out a board.
There are two main driving factors
behind a decision to go with doublesided loading. The first is that of board
size. If you require a particular board
size and all your components won’t fit
on one side, then double-sided loading
is an obvious way to go.
The second reason is that it is
required to meet certain electrical
requirements. Often these days, with
dense high speed surface mount devices packed onto a board, there is
either no room for the many bypass
capacitors required or they cannot be
placed close enough to the device to
be effective. Ball Grid Array (BGA)
devices, for example, benefit from
having the bypass capacitors on the
bottom of the board.
Indeed, it is common to find double-sided loaded boards with nothing
but bypass capacitors mounted on the
back. This allows the bypass capacitor
to be as close to the physical device
power pin as possible.
Be sure to involve your PC board
assembler in discussions during the
layout of your board. There are many
things you can and can’t do with double-sided loading.
Auto routing
“Real PC board designers don’t auto
route!” is an age-old war cry.
While many will claim this is true,
reality may often kick in and there
certainly are times when you do need
to consider the use of an auto router.
Auto routing is the process of getting
the PC board software to route the
tracks for you. It will even attempt to
route your entire board if you let it.
Most of the medium to top range
PC board packages will do this and
the technology and theory behind autorouting techniques can be mind-boggling. Artificial intelligence and neural-based technology are some of the
marketing buzz words used.
If the PC board program can route
the board for you, why not always use
it? Doesn’t it just automate a mundane
process like laying down tracks? The
answers can be complicated and
many but no matter how “smart” an
auto-router is, it simply cannot replace
a good human PC board designer. It is
like trying to ask a computer program
to paint a picture for you. If you give
it enough information it may to able
to produce something legible but it
won’t be artistic and certainly won’t
be a Mona Lisa.
Many people think that auto-routers
are a tool to help not-so-experienced
PC board designers. In fact, the opposite is true! In the hands of an inexperienced designer, an auto router will
produce a complete mess. But in the
hands of a very experienced designer,
an auto router can produce excellent
results much quicker than the human
designer could do.
Auto routers come in handy when
you have complex boards with not
much routing space, on non-critical
parts of your layout. Non-critical parts
of a board might include low frequency
or static control signals to components
like LED displays, switches and relays.
Advanced auto-routers do come with
tools to let you specify exactly how you
want electrically important tracks laid
out. But by the time you have told it
in excruciating detail what to do with
every track, you could have laid it out
yourself!
Never use an auto-router to do your
complete board; it will be a mess. But
if you let it loose on a very specific
non-critical area of your board, you can
get some excellent results, sometimes
indistinguishable from manual routing. You can even auto-route a single
connection, and this is sometimes
handy when you are having trouble
finding routing space in the final phase
of your layout.
www.siliconchip.com.au
100
95 experienced at PC board design,
Unless you are very
simply stay away from auto-routers. This cannot be stressed
75
enough.
Off the shelf and
custom embedded
controllers for OEMs
Auto Placement
Design for manufacturing
25
www.siliconchip.com.au
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Panelisation:
If you are looking at getting your board automatically
assembled with a pick-and-place machine, then it pays you
to get as many boards onto the one “panel” as you can.
A panel is simply a large PC board containing many
identical copies of your board. It takes time to place a
board into position on a pick and place machine, so the
more boards you can load at once, the more cost effective
your manufacturing will be.
A panel will also contain tooling strips on the top and
bottom, to allow for automated handling of the panel. Different manufacturers may have different maximum panel
sizes they can produce.
Each individual board can be “routed out” and joined
with “breakout tabs” or simply butted together and scoured
out with a “V groove”. A V groove is a score mark placed
on your board that allows you to easily “snap” the board
along the groove. A breakout tab is a small strip of board
perhaps 5-10mm long joining your board to your panel.
Small non-plated holes are also drilled along this strip
which allows the board to be snapped or cut out of the
panel after assembly.
You will need to consult your board loader to determine
optimum panelisation size and requirements.
Tooling Strips:
Tooling strips are strips of blank board down the top
and bottom side of your board. They contain tooling
holes, fiducial marks and other manufacturing information if required.
Standard tooling holes are required for automated handling of your board. 2.4mm and 3.2mm are two standard
hole sizes. Four tooling holes per panel is sufficient, one
in each corner.
The tooling trips connect to your board(s) with breakout
tabs or V Grooves.
Fiducial Marks:
Fiducial marks are visual alignment aids placed on your
PC board. They are used by automated pick and place
machines to align your board and find reference points.
A video camera on the machine can identify the centre of
100
fiducial marks and use these points as a reference.
On a panel there should be three fiducial marks, known
95
as global fiducials. Bottom left/right and top left corners.
They should be at least
5mm away from the board edges.
75
They can be mounted on the tooling strips.
The fiducial mark should be a circular pad on the copper
layer of diameter 1.5mm typically. The fiducial should not
Programmable controllers
Gre
a
Auto Placement tools are available in many higher end
25
PC board packages. Professional PC board designers do not
use Auto Placement 5tools; it’s that simple. Don’t rely on
the Auto Place feature to select the most optimum layout
for you. It will never 0work (unless it’s an extremely simple
board), regardless of what the program makers claim.
These tools do have one useful function however. They
give you an easy way to get your components initially
spread across your board.
Visit our website for free software, our renowned training
ecemberdocumentation
2003 65
course and complete onlineDproduct
www.splatco.com.au
be covered with solder mask and the
mask should be removed for a clearance of at least 3mm around. The pad
can be bare copper or coated like a
regular pad.
Two local fiducial marks (in opposite corners) are also required next to
each large fine-pitch surface mount
device package on your board.
Thermal Relief:
If you solidly connect a surface
mount pad to a large copper area, the
copper area will act as a very effective
heat sink. This will conduct heat away
from your pad while soldering. This
can encourage dry joints and other
soldering related problems. In these
situations a thermal relief connection,
which comprises several (usually four)
smaller tracks connecting the pad
to the copper plane. Thermal relief
options can be set automatically in
many packages.
Soldering:
Soldering considerations need to
be taken into account when laying
out your board. There are three basic
soldering techniques: hand, wave,
and reflow.
Hand soldering is the traditional
method typically used for prototypes
and small production runs. Major
impacts when laying out your board
include suitable access for the iron
and thermal relief for pads. Non-plated
through double-sided boards should
allow for ample room to get the soldering iron onto the top-side pads.
Wave soldering is a common process
used for surface-mount and throughhole production soldering. It involves
passing the entire board over a molten
bath of solder. Solder masks are absolutely essential here to prevent bridging. The major thing to watch out for
when designing is ensuring that small
components are not in the wave solder
“shadow” of larger components. The
board travels through the wave solder
machine in one direction, so there will
be a lack of solder trailing behind larger components. Surface mount devices
are fixed to the board with an adhesive
before wave soldering.
Reflow soldering is the latest technique and is suitable for all surface
mount components. The blank board
is first coated with a mask of solder
paste over the pads (solder “stencils”
are used for this). Then each component is placed, and is sometimes held
in place by an adhesive. The entire
board is then loaded into an infrared or
66 Silicon Chip
nitrogen oven and “baked”. The solder
paste melts (reflows) on the pads and
component leads to make the joint. A
newer reflow method called pin-inpaste or intrusive reflow is available
for through-hole devices.
Combinations of wave and reflow
soldering can be used for mixed
through-hole and surface-mount
boards. Wave soldering has the advantage of being cheap but the disadvantage of imposing placement limits on
your components. Reflow soldering
is more complex and expensive but it
allows for very dense surface mount
packing.
consumer products due to their low
cost. They are not suitable for plated-through holes or fine tolerance
designs.
A blank base material coated with
copper is known as a copper clad
board.
A multi-layer board is made up of
various individual boards separated
by Pre-impregnated Bonding Layers,
also known as “prepreg”. There are
different ways to stack these board
layers up and this will dictate what
you can do with planes and blind/
buried vias. Consult the manufacturer
for their recommendations on this.
Basic PC board manufacture
Surface finishes
A PC board usually consists of
a blank fibreglass substrate (“the
board”), which is usually 1.6mm thick.
Other common thicknesses are 0.8mm
and 2.4mm. There are many types of
PC board substrate material but by far
the most common is a standard woven
epoxy glass material known as FR4.
This material has standard known
properties, typical values of which
are shown in the accompanying table.
The most often-used parameter is
probably the dielectric constant. This
figure is important for calculating
high-speed transmission line parameters and other effects. An FR4 PC
board is made up of glass and resin.
Glass has a dielectric constant of
approximately 6, and the resin has a
dielectric constant of approximately
3. So an FR4 PC board can typically
have a figure ranging from under 4, to
almost 5. If you need an exact figure
you will have to consult with your PC
board manufacturer.
You can get your PC board manufactured with several different types
of pad and track surface finish.
Low cost single and double-sided
boards without a solder mask typically have a roll solder finish on the
copper tracks (commonly referred to as
“tinned”). Beware of potential shorts
between tracks with this method.
More expensive boards will typically have solder mask over bare copper
(SMOBC) tracks and rolled solder
(tinned) on the pads and vias which is
Hot Air Leveled (HAL). Hot air leveling
helps surface-mount components to sit
flat on the board.
For large and critical surface mount
components, a gold “flash” finish is
used on the pads. This gives an extremely flat surface finish for dense
fine pitch devices.
Peelable solder masks are available
and are handy for temporary masking
of areas on your board during wave
soldering or conformal coating.
Typical FR4 Properties
Dielectric Constant...... 3.9 to 4.8
Dielectric Breakdown.. 39kV/mm
Water Absorption........ <1.3%
Dissipation Factor........ 0.022
Thermal Expansion..... 16-19ppm/°C
NOTE: These values can vary with
manufacturers; check with your supplier for exact figures.
Other exotic base materials like
Teflon are also available but are only
used for special designs that require
a higher grade base material for a specific reason.
There are cheaper materials than
FR4, like phenolic base and CEM-1.
These are hobbyist-grade boards but
are also often used in some mass
Electrical testing
You can have your finished PC board
checked for electrical continuity and
shorts at the time of manufacture.
This is done with a automated “flying
probe” or “bed of nails” test machine.
It checks that the continuity of the
tracks matches your PC board file.
It may cost a fair bit extra but this is
mandatory for multi-layer boards. If
you have a manufacturing error on
one of your inner layers, it can be very
difficult to fix.
Signature
Like any work of art, no board is
complete without adding your name or
signature to it! The signature can take
any form your like. Some people put
www.siliconchip.com.au
their name, initials or a fancy symbol.
Whatever it is, just make sure you add
something. A signature can be placed
on any of the copper layers or on the
component overlay.
Submitting your design for
manufacture
The first thing to know is which
format to send your PC board file in.
In Australia the standard format is any
version of Protel (AutoTrax, PFW2.8,
99SE, DXP etc). Every manufacturer in
Australia will happily take a Protel file.
In fact, Protel format is their preferred
way to receive a file.
Many will also take other proprietary formats as well but you’ll have to
check with them first. Supplying the
original PC board package file will
ensure that what you see on the screen
is what you will get when your board
is delivered. Unless you have a good
reason to do so, don’t supply your file
in any other format.
Gerber plot files are the traditional
and industry recognised file format
and all major manufacturers will
accept them. Many PC board designers still insist on generating and
supplying Gerber files themselves, in
order to have total control over the
manufacturing process. In all but a
few cases, generating Gerber files is
not necessary and a thing of he past.
Generating Gerbers adds an extra step
of complexity to the PC board process
where errors can creep in. So avoid the
use of Gerber files
where possible; they
can be troublesome
unless you know exactly how to generate
them correctly.
The manufacturer
will ask for a lot of
information before
they quote. Ask them
what you need to
provide with your
file. Here is a basic
checklist:
• A reference code
and revision for
your board. This
makes it easy for
both parties to
track the progress
of it.
• Desired manufacturing time,
known as the
“turn-around”. 24
www.siliconchip.com.au
hours will cost a LOT more than 2
weeks!
• Quantity of boards required
• Board thickness (1.6mm, 0.8mm,
2.4mm etc). 1.6mm is standard
• Type of board (FR4, Teflon etc). FR4
is standard
Number
of layers
•
• Surface finish (SMOBC, HAL, Gold
Flash etc). SMOBC and HAL is
standard.
• What colour you want your solder
mask and component overlay.
• Copper weight (1oz, 2oz etc). 1oz
is standard.
Whether
or not you want electrical
•
testing.
• The Track/Space clearance of your
board
• How your board dimensions are
defined, eg, on the mechanical layer.
• Whether you want boards “panelised” or individually cut.
Many manufacturers will have “prototype” services where they fit as many
of your boards onto a standard “panel”
as they can, all for one fixed price.
In most cases you will be charged a
“tooling” cost. This is the cost of printing the photo masks for your board and
also setting up their machines. This is
usually a one-off cost, so if you get the
same board manufactured again, you
won’t have to pay the tooling charge.
Do you believe that is all there is to
know about PC board design?
If you answered no, then you’d be
right! Good PC board design takes lots
Ozitronics
www.ozitronics.com
Tel: (03) 9434 3806 Fax: (03) 9434 3847
Email: sales<at>ozitronics.com
USB 'Flash-Only' PIC Programmer
For 'Flash' type PIC devices only.
Truly portable - powered from USB
port. Box supplied. USB type A
connector. ZIF socket not included.
K128 - $68.20
USB & Serial Port PIC Programmer
USB/Serial connection makes it
ideal for field use. Supports ICSP.
USB type A connector. ZIF socket
not included. 17VDC
K149 - $68.20
USB only PIC Programmer
Similar to K149 but without serial
connection. Supports Low-Voltage
ICSP. USB type B connector. ZIF
socket not included.
17VDC K150 - $68.20
ATMEL 89xxx Programmer
Uses serial port. No special
programming software required.
4 status LEDs. ZIF sockets not
included. 16VDC. K123 - $75.90
Programmer Accessories:
40-pin Wide ZIF socket (Z6) - $33.00
20-pin ZIF socket (Z5) - $22.00
USB cables (2M) - $11.00
Prices include GST - shipping extra.
Full documentation available from website.
of experience, so go get started on your
next board using our tips.
Next month, we’ll look at using the
popular “Autotrax” and “Easytrax” PC
SC
board software.
December 2003 67
SPLat Controls
microPLCs
Despite what you might have
heard, world-class electronics
is still produced right here
in Australia. If you’re
manufacturing a product that
needs an electronic control
module, then SPLat Controls,
a local company in Seaford,
Victoria, can probably help.
By PETER SMITH
S
PLAT CONTROLS produce a
range of Programmable Logic
Controllers (PLCs) designed
specifically for the OEM market. They
boast very low start-up costs, simple
expansion and easy programming. A
custom design service is available, or
you can build up your system from one
of the standard off-the-shelf designs.
What’s a PLC? PLCs provide the automation “engines” for industrial process monitoring and control. They’ve
been around since the late 1960s,
originally replacing complicated and
unreliable banks of electro-mechanical relays. Today, PLCs are used in
TOP OF PAGE: As shown here, the
MMi99 microPLC is also available as
part of a sales demonstration kit. It’s
set up to simulate simple machine
control, complete with LCD display,
thermistor temperature sensor and
appropriate front panel graphics.
Companion software (supplied on
CD) demonstrates the MMi99s serial
communications capabilities.
68 Silicon Chip
everything from industrial washing
machines to full-blown discrete parts
manufacturing lines.
Minis to micros
The earliest PLCs to use general-purpose computers for “back-end”
processing were based on the DEC
PDP-8 minicomputer. Not surprisingly, many times more computing
power is now available in microprocessor-based systems at a tiny fraction
of the cost.
All design-in (embedded) PLCs
now use microcontrollers (or similar
technology) for their processing elements. Microcontrollers integrate a
microprocessor core with many of the
peripherals needed in a typical PLC.
To get a feel for the technology, let’s
have a look at one of SPLat Control’s
offerings, the MMi99 microPLC.
MMi99 microPLC
The MMi99 consists of a single PC
board, measuring just 88 x 127mm.
At the heart of the board is an 8-bit
Motorola MC68HC908 microcontroller running SPLat’s proprietary
programming language.
The board interfaces to the outside
world via a series of I/O (input/output)
ports, terminated on rows of push-on
connectors. Included are two analog
inputs, two analog outputs (both 8-bit),
eight digital outputs (open collector)
and eight digital inputs.
Both analog inputs can be configured to measure voltage, current or
resistance, thus allowing direct temperature measurement using low-cost
thermistors.
Five push-button switches and seven LEDs mount on the opposite side of
the board, forming part of an in-built
operator interface. This arrangement
allows for direct mounting to an aluminium faceplate. A piezo “beeper”
and connector for several popular liquid crystal display modules completes
the interface.
A universal graphics overlay is
available to suit the faceplate, making
it possible to quickly assemble a “proof
of concept” or one-off design.
On-board regulation means that the
board can be powered from any 12 28V DC supply with around 200mA
www.siliconchip.com.au
A shot of the MMi99 mounted on the aluminium faceplate. The LCD module at
the top is wired to the main board via ribbon cable. The input and output ports
are terminated in rows of connectors along the top and bottom of the board.
A D-9 connector is provided for RS232 (PC, modem, etc) communications.
Connectors at the left and right sides are for expansion purposes.
capacity. Our review unit was supplied
with a 12V DC 500mA plugpack.
Programming
As with all of SPLat’s boards, the
microcontroller on the MMi99 is programmed with a proprietary language
designed specifically for PLCs. The
high-level nature of this language
means that it should be relatively easy
to learn.
Controller programs are first written
and simulated on a PC before being
translated into a more compact form
and uploaded to the FLASH memory
in the MMi99’s on-board micro. An
RS232 port is provided on the board
for the PC connection. This port can
also be used for field updates, either
via direct or modem connection.
The SPLat language contains a repertoire of over 200 instructions. For
simple applications, however, you
have the option of using a subset of
the language called “Fast-track”. With
www.siliconchip.com.au
only 14 basic instructions to learn,
PLC programming surely doesn’t get
any easier!
Expansion
For more demanding applications,
the MMi99 can be expanded both in
terms of I/O capability and functionality. Two on-board connectors are
provided for this purpose.
The first of these is intended for connection to “SPice” add-on boards. The
SPice interface provides a means of
adding low-cost application-specific
circuitry to the MMi99. For example,
a typical SPice board might contain
circuitry to condition the output of a
sensor before it is fed into the MMi99
processor.
The second connector is designed
for more sophisticated peripherals.
SPLat Controls call this the “SPx”
interface and it utilises an enhanced
version of the industry-standard “SPI”
serial bus for communication. An ex-
ample of an off-the-shelf SPx board is
the XIRO16, which adds eight digital
inputs and eight relay outputs to the
MMi99.
Going custom
The simple expansion system that
SPLat Controls have incorporated in
the MMi99 means that it shouldn’t
cost the earth to add capabilities to a
basic system. Once a working system
is proven, the results can be built as a
complete custom controller, if quantities demand it.
And the good news is that your programming investment remains intact,
thanks to the high degree of hardware
abstraction that’s part of this system.
More information
The MMi99 is available as a board
on its own or as part of a developer’s
kit complete with front panel, LCD display, graphics overlay and software/
documentation on CD-ROM.
Detailed information on SPLat Controls products can be obtained on-line
at www.splatco.com.au You can also
reach them by phone on 03 9773 5082
or e-mail to sales<at>splatco.com.au SC
December 2003 69
Check your DMM’s accuracy
with this:
MiniCal 5V Meter
Calibration
Standard
How accurate is your digital
multimeter? Find out with this
simple yet accurate DC voltage
reference. If your meter fails the
grade, the reference can be used
as the calibration standard too.
And as a bonus, we’ve thrown in a
crystal-locked frequency reference
which doubles as a crystal checker.
R
ECENTLY, THE NEED arose
to recalibrate an expensive
digital multimeter. As the job
seemed quite straightforward, I decided to tackle it myself. Like most
hobbyists, I don’t have access to the
high-accuracy voltage standards used
in calibration labs. Nevertheless, I
came up with a scheme that I thought
would be accurate enough for general
hobbyist work.
By hooking up five multimeters and
two panel meters to a voltage divider
across a battery, I figured that the mean
reading should serve as a reasonable
“standard”. However, I was amazed to
see that no two meters read the same
and the range of values was much
greater than I had anticipated.
Although the readings were proba70 Silicon Chip
By BARRY HUBBLE
bly within the specs for each meter, it
was a sobering demonstration. In the
absence of anything better, I calibrated
my upmarket digital meter to the mean
value but was determined to find a
more accurate method that would give
me some confidence.
down the MAX6350’s +5V output to
generate a 192.3mV reference.
In addition, the board includes a
crystal-locked oscillator for checking
meters, oscilloscopes and the like.
The frequency of the oscillator is determined by crystal selection.
The MiniCal solution
How it works
The Maxim range of IC voltage references proved ideal for this purpose.
In particular, the MAX6350 +5V DC
reference boasts a very impressive untrimmed accuracy of ±0.02%, with an
extremely low temperature coefficient
of 0.5ppm/°C.
Generally, voltmeters are calibrated
on their lowest DC range (200mV for
3.5-digit meters). The “MiniCal”, as
this new project is called, divides
Fig.1 shows that the circuit consists
of two completely separate sections.
With slide switch S1 in the lefthand
ABOVE: our Tektronix 4.5-digit
meter is pretty much spot on,
especially when the 0.02% accuracy
of the MiniCal voltage reference is
considered. Other (cheaper) meters
might not be as accurate.
www.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the MiniCal consists of independent oscillator and voltage reference
circuits. To minimise noise on the voltage reference, only one of the circuits can
be powered at a time, selectable via slide switch S1.
position, battery power is applied to
the oscillator section. Some readers
may recognise this circuit and, in
fact, it’s based on the “Simple Go/
No Go Crystal Checker”, originally
published in the August 1994 edition
of SILICON CHIP.
The basic Colpitts oscillator used
in the original design proved ideal
for the frequency reference section
of the MiniCal. Although not strictly
necessary, the circuit has been reproduced in its entirety, meaning that it
can also be used as a crystal checker
if so desired.
Crystal X1, the 150pF capacitor between Q1’s base and emitter, and the
100pF capacitor to ground together
form the feedback network. The output from Q1’s emitter is AC-coupled
via a 1nF capacitor to the “FREQ”
test pin.
Although we’ve specified a 10MHz
crystal for X1, the circuit should work
with values from 1MHz to at least
21MHz without modification.
The remaining circuitry connected
to Q1’s emitter performs the crystal
“go/no go” function. Diodes D1 & D2
and the 100nF capacitor rectify and
filter the AC signal from the emitter.
The resultant DC voltage is applied
to the base of Q2, switching it on and
lighting the “OK” LED whenever oscillation is present.
Voltage reference
With switch S1 in the righthand
position, the voltage reference section
of the circuit is powered. This section
is very simple and consists of only a
www.siliconchip.com.au
voltage reference IC, three capacitors
and two resistors.
The MAX6350 (IC1) can operate
with an input range of 8-36V, providing
an untrimmed output of 5V ±0.02%
(4.999V - 5.001V). Small tantalum
capacitors on the input, output and
“NR” (Noise Reduction) pins reduce
circuit noise to just 3.0µVp/p (typical) in the 0.1Hz to 10Hz spectrum.
Battery-powered operation ensures
that this is not degraded by external
(conducted) noise sources.
Note: the MAX6350 is available
in both 8-pin DIP and SO (surface
mount) packages. The PC board design
accommodates both package styles.
We expect that most constructors will
opt for the surface mount device, as
it is cheaper and easier to obtain (see
parts list).
Resistors R1 & R2 divide down the
MAX6350’s +5V output to obtain the
192.3mV calibration voltage. At a
minimum, these resistors need to be
Main Features
•
5.000V ±0.02% voltage
standard
•
192.3mV ±0.2% voltage
standard (optional ±0.1% or
±0.04%)
•
Two ±0.1% resistor standards
(optional ±0.01%)
•
Crystal-locked frequency
reference
•
Crystal checker
0.1% types (see parts list) to achieve
the specified 0.2% voltage tolerance.
As you can see, the use of 0.1%
resistors degrades circuit performance
somewhat. However, the result is a
good compromise between accuracy
and cost, and is sufficient for meter
checking. If you want to use the MiniCal for calibration, then you will
need to upgrade to tighter-tolerance
resistors in order to meet the basic
accuracy specs of your instrument.
Two alternatives for R1 & R2 are
shown in the parts list. The 0.01%
resistor pair gives a ±0.04% tolerance
on the 192.3mV output but will set you
back about $77. Alternatively, you can
install the 0.05% 25:1 divider network
for a tolerance of about 0.1% and a
much lower cost of just $18.
Note: the 25:1 divider network
consists of two 0.1% resistors (1kΩ &
25kW) with a ratio accuracy of 0.05%.
The device is supplied in a 3-pin surface-mount (SOT-23) package.
So why did we choose an odd calibration voltage of 192.3mV instead of a
nice round figure? Well, it was simply
a convenient choice using available
resistor values. Other division ratios
could be used but for best results the
reference voltage must be close to (but
not exceeding) 200mV.
Construction
All parts mount on a single PC
board coded 04112031 – see Fig.2. If
you have surface-mount devices for
IC1 and/or R1 & R2, these should be
installed first (see Fig.3). You’ll need a
temperature-controlled soldering iron
with a fine chisel tip and small-gauge
solder for the job. A bright light, magnifying glass and 0.76mm desoldering
December 2003 71
Fig.2: follow this diagram closely when assembling the
board. Take care with the orientation of the diodes (D1 &
D2) and tantalum capacitors. Note: this final version of the
PC board differs slightly from the early version shown in
the photographs
braid (“Soder-Wick” size #00) will also
prove useful.
Next, on the top side of the board
(see Fig.2), install all components in
order of height, starting with the wire
link, resistors and diodes (D1 & D2).
Obviously, if you’ve mounted the R1/
R2 divider on the bottom side, then
you shouldn’t install anything in the
R1 & R2 positions on this side!
Note that all the tantalum capacitors are polarised devices and must
be inserted with their positive leads
Fig.3: the PC board design can accommodate both
conventional (DIP-8) and surface-mount (SO-8) package
types for IC1. If you have the SO-8 type, then mount it on
the copper side of the board as shown here. The optional
25:1 resistor network (R1/R2) also goes on this side.
aligned with the “+” symbol marked
on the overlay.
Install the battery holder last of all.
It should be fixed to the PC board with
No.4 x 6mm self-tapping screws before
soldering.
To complete the job, attach small
stick-on rubber feet to the underside
of the PC board to protect the assembly
as well as your desktop.
Operation
Due to the expected intermittent
use of the MiniCal, a power switch
has not been included. Simply plug in
a battery and use the slide switch to
select between the oscillator function
(“FREQ”) or voltage reference function (“VOLTS”). Note that the battery
voltage must be at least 8V for correct
operation of the reference IC.
When measuring the oscillator frequency, the crystal checker function
must be disabled by removing the
jumper from JP2. This is necessary
because the checker circuit loads the
Fig.4: this oscilloscope shot shows the signal on the “FREQ” test
pin with a 10MHz crystal installed. Fig.5 (right) shows the full-size
etching pattern for the PC board.
72 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
Parts List
1 PC board, code 04112031,
71mm x 88mm
1 10MHz crystal (X1) (user
select, see text)
1 3mm green LED (LED1)
5 PC board pins (stakes)
2 2-way 2.54mm SIL headers
(JP1, JP2)
2 jumper shunts
1 miniature DPDT PC-mount
slide switch (Altronics S-2060,
Jaycar SS-0823)
1 9V PC-mount battery holder
(Altronics S-5048, Jaycar PH9235)
3 No.4 x 6mm self-tapping
screws
4 small stick-on rubber feet
1 9V battery
The MiniCal is powered from a
9V battery to ensure low-noise
performance. The inset shows how
the surface-mount version of IC1 is
mounted.
oscillator, reducing the signal on the
“FREQ” test pin below the sensitivity
level of most multimeters.
Follow the instructions provided
with your multimeter regarding calibration. In general, most multimeters
should be calibrated on their lowest
(basic) range, which is normally
200mV for 3.5 digit models.
As described earlier, accuracy will
be about ±0.2% using ±0.1% resistors
for R1 & R2. This figure is good enough
for many general-purpose instruments,
which typically specify an accuracy of
±0.25% at best. Note that calibration
instructions usually specify a standard
of ±0.1% or better.
Calibration is normally only applicable to the basic range, with all other
ranges depending on that calibration.
The 5V output and 0.1% resistors
should therefore only be used to
check the accuracy of your meter,
not to calibrate it. Note that, in use,
the jumper shunt (on JP1) must be
removed before measuring the 0.1%
resistor values.
Note also that some meters may
require special tools and/or know
ledge for successful calibration. When
in doubt, read the (service) manual
first!
Meter loading effects
A resistive divider was chosen to
www.siliconchip.com.au
Table 1: Capacitor Codes
Value
470nF
100nF
10nF
1nF
150pF
100pF
μF Code
0.47µF
0.1µF
.01µF
.001µF
–
–
EIA Code IEC Code
474
470n
104
100n
103
10n
102
1n
151
150p
101
100p
generate the millivolt source because
it’s simple and requires no adjustment. However, the down side to this
simplicity is that the meter’s input
impedance loads the divider network
and therefore reduces the reference
accuracy.
For example, when a meter with a
10MΩ input impedance is connected,
the reference voltage will fall by about
0.02mV. This corresponds to a 0.01%
reduction in accuracy. Assuming you
know your meter’s input impedance,
the loading effect can easily be factored
into the calibration where maximum
accuracy is required.
Further reading
Detailed technical information on
the MAX6350 voltage reference IC can
be downloaded from the Maxim web
SC
site at www.maxim-ic.com
Semiconductors
1 MAX6350CPA (DIP) or MAX6350CSA (SMD) voltage
reference (IC1) (Farnell
162-097, also available from
www.futurlec.com)
1 BF199 NPN RF transistor (Q1)
1 BC548 NPN transistor (Q2)
2 1N4148 diodes (D1, D2)
Capacitors
1 10µF 16V tantalum
1 2.2µF 16V tantalum
1 1µF 16V tantalum
1 470nF 16V tantalum
1 100nF 63V MKT polyester
1 10nF 63V MKT polyester
1 1nF 63V MKT polyester
1 150pF ceramic disc
1 100pF ceramic disc
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 47kΩ
1 2.2kΩ
1 10kΩ
1 1kΩ
1 25.5kΩ 0.1% (R1) (Farnell
340-522)
1 1.02kΩ 0.1% (R2) (Farnell
339-180)
-OR1 25:1 0.05% resistor network,
Vishay MPM series (Farnell
309-8576)
-OR1 25kΩ 0.01%, Vishay S102J
series (Farnell 309-8175)
1 1kΩ 0.01%, Vishay S102J
series (Farnell 309-8114)
Note: items listed with Farnell
catalog numbers can be ordered
direct from Farnell, phone 1300
361 005 or visit www.farnell.com
December 2003 73
Don’t get caught with a flat battery
Car Battery
Monitor
This little Car Battery Monitor provides an
early warning of battery problems. It has
seven LEDs to indicate the battery voltage
and a piezo buzzer to warn when the voltage
drops below 12V.
By ALAN BONNARD
A
CLOSE CALL on the road can
really focus your mind on the
importance of having a battery monitor
in a car. I had been enjoying a pleasant
week of travelling around the countryside at a leisurely pace and taking
in the beautiful scenery each day. It
wasn’t until the final day, with the
big rush to return home, that I had to
drive at night.
My home is deep in the country and
on the road I was travelling the closest
petrol station may be 80km away. I was
travelling through an area that is full of
open-cut coal mines and large heavily
loaded semi-trailers constantly pound
the roads, travelling at quite high
speeds. It was around 8pm at night and
everything was very dark – no street
lights or house lights anywhere.
Just as I was going up a hill, the
lights began to dim and the engine
coughed. A large semi-trailer loomed
in the rear-vision mirror as I pushed
the clutch in and tried to restart. My
Where To Buy The Kit
This project is copyright to Futurlec. It is priced at $12.90 plus
$4 for postage and packing. It
can only be purchased from:
www.futurlec.com
74 Silicon Chip
speed was falling rapidly and my lights
were blacked out – I was like a sitting
duck in the middle of the road, as
the semi-trailer came rapidly bearing
down on me.
I just managed to pull the car off the
road, as the semi-trailer came screaming past, missing me by inches!
After calling for assistance from
the NRMA, the problem was found
to be a fault in the alternator, which
was failing to charge the battery. The
battery voltage had been falling under the heavy load of the lights and
at the worst possible time, there was
not sufficient power for the lights or
the motor.
After the initial shock wore off, I put
on my thinking cap to come up with
a PIC-based solution to the problem.
What was really needed was a display and a buzzer, to get my attention
should the voltage fall outside a specified range. So my design criteria was
set, a series of LEDs could indicate
the voltage and a buzzer would also
be used to warn of problems.
Circuit details
The circuit is based on PIC16F819
18-pin microcontroller which has an
analog-to-digital (A/D) input to monitor the battery voltage and outputs
capable of driving LEDs directly, to
keep the component count down.
There are seven LEDs in all, giving
a good range of voltage indication.
The topmost LED, LED1, comes on for
voltages above 14V which will occur
when the battery is fully charged.
LED2 indicates for voltages between
13.5V and 14V while LED3 indicates
between 13V and 13.5V. Normally, one
of these LEDs will be on. LED4 covers
12.5V to 13V while LED5 covers 12V
to 12.5V.
LED6 covers from 11.5V to 12V
while LED7 comes on for voltages below 11.5V. These two LEDs are backed
up by the piezo chime which beeps for
voltages between 11.5V and 12V and
becomes more insistent for voltages
below 11.5V.
That might seem fairly conservative.
After all, most cars will start with no
troubles, even though the battery voltage might be a touch below 12V, won’t
they? Well, no. Some modern cars will
happily crank the motor at voltages below 11V but their engine management
will not let the motor start unless the
voltage is above 11V.
So don’t think that a modern car will
always start reliably. This little battery
monitor could easily prevent a very
inconvenient failure to start!
So let’s describe the rest of the
circuit. The incoming supply is connected via diode D1 which provides
protection against reverse polarity
while zener diode ZD1 provides protection from spike voltages.
A standard 7805 3-terminal regulator is then used to provide a stable
5V to the microcontroller. The battery
voltage is sensed via a voltage divider
using 33kΩ and 100kΩ resistors. This
brings the voltage down to within the
www.siliconchip.com.au
Main Features
•
•
•
•
Fig.1: the circuit is based on a PIC16F819 microcontroller. This provides
A/D conversion of the battery voltage and drives the indicator LEDs.
0-5V range for the A/D input of the
PIC16F819. Port B (RB0 to RB7) of the
microcontroller is then used to drive
the various LEDs, with current limiting
provided via the 330Ω resistor network. RB7, pin 13, drives a switching
transistor for the piezo buzzer.
Software
For the software, the design follows
the basic template for a PIC microcontroller. Port A and its ADC (analog-to
-digital converter) function are set up
while port B functions as the output
for the LEDs and buzzer. Once the
set-up is complete, a reading will be
taken at port RA2, the input for the
A/D convertor. This reading is then
compared with a series of values to determine the range of the voltage. This
is similar to a series of “if” statements
in Basic language.
If the voltage is found to be within
a certain range, the relevant port B
pin will be turned on. If the voltage is
below 12V, the buzzer will be turned
on for a brief period, to signal a low
www.siliconchip.com.au
battery condition. As the voltage falls
below 11.5V, the frequency of the
beeps will increase, to signal increased
urgency.
Building it
All the parts are mounted on a
small PC board measuring 46 x 46mm
(available from Futurlec). The starting
point should be the IC socket for the
PIC16F819, as this is easiest to mount
Fig.2: here’s how to install the
parts on the small PC board.
Visual indication of battery
voltage
Audible warning when voltage
becomes low
Screw terminals for easy
connection
Simple and easy to build
while the board is bare. The next item
can be the PC terminal block. The resistors and capacitors can then follow.
Make sure the electrolytics are inserted
with correct polarity.
Make sure that you do not confuse
the zener (ZD1) with the diode when
you are installing them; the diode is
the larger package of the two.
Even more important, don’t get the
78L05 3-terminal regulator and the
2N3906 transistor mixed up; they
come in identical packages. The 78L05
will be labelled as such while the
2N3906 will be labelled “3906”. And
make sure you insert them the correct
way around.
The buzzer must also be installed
with the correct polarity. The 330Ω
current limiting resistors are all in a
10-pin in-line package.
There are four green LEDs, two
yellow and one red. They need to be
installed in line and with the correct
orientation.
Testing
Before you insert the PIC16F819
microcontroller, do a voltage check.
Connect a 12V source and check for
the presence of 5V between pins 14 &
5 OF IC1. If 5V is not present, check
the polarity of regulator REG1 and the
polarity of the diode D1.
If these tests are OK, insert the IC
and test the unit over a range of voltage
between 9V and 15V. Make sure that
all LEDs come on in sequence and
the piezo buzzer beeps for voltages
below 12V.
Now it is matter of installing the unit
in your car. It is preferable to install the
unit in a visible position for the driver.
However, it should not obscure any
other instruments. The unit should be
connected to the car’s 12V supply after
the ignition switch. This will turn the
unit off with the other instruments and
prevent battery drain while the motor
SC
is not running.
December 2003 75
A NEW “CLASS“ OF PICAXE
Keyboards 101
by Stan Swan
New PC on the Christmas wish list? Kids getting your old PC (again)?
Maybe they’ve already got your previous cast offs!? Can’t bear to just
throw out that new millenium keyboard you lovingly crafted prose and
caressed spreadsheets with? Consider our PICAXE-18 (A or X) “PS/2 to
RS-232” converter that creates a versatile 2-wire serial data sender,
suitable linking to a remote terminal or LCD display.
W
ith flair, the entire circuit
and 3xAA battery power
supply may even be able to
be housed inside the keyboard – suiting perhaps a serial “computerless”
keyboard able to send data for many
kilometres along a simple two-wire
link (refer “Damp String” Datacomms,
July 2003 SILICON CHIP).
In spite of its recent multimedia
and Internet variations, the PC’s humble QWERTY keyboard surely is the
industry’s bargain workhorse, with
a service life extending often well
beyond its companion PC.
It is debatable in a commercial sense
if it’s worth cleaning spills and dirty
finger marks off them, since in spite
of their electronic and mechanical
sophistication, new (barebones) keyboards sell for under twenty dollars
– often well under.
But if you’re prepared to spend a few
minutes wash & brush up time, you’ll
no doubt be able to lay your hands on
plenty of working ones (maybe even
more after office Christmas parties!).
For this project however it’s suggested you stick with relatively recent PS/2
models, since the original 1980s XT
design is not PICAXE-18A/X friendly.
In addition, even early 1990s AT types,
especially those with the larger 5-pin
76 Silicon Chip
DIN socket, may be power hungry.
Tests on assorted six-pin miniDIN
PS/2 keyboards showed most were
delightfully tolerant of lower supply
voltages but some drew up to 70mA.
Since the aim is to run the entire setup off the usual PICAXE 3xAA (4.5V)
supply, it’s best to use such a battery
busting keyboard just for initial testing
and keep your eyes peeled for one of
the “smell of an oily rag” ones.
If you don’t have a DMM to check
working current, then open up the keyboard itself (mind the cockroaches!)
and check the dates on the keyboard’s
inbuilt control electronic ICs.
www.siliconchip.com.au
We found an early 90s era HP had
“9315” ( = 1993 15th week ) on its 40pin Motorola controller and predictably drew a greedy 60mA even at 3V.
The Y2K-era discard settled on finally
drew just 2mA at voltages anywhere
from 3 - 5.5V (thus matching a PICAXE
needs well) and seemed typical of
many such now available. Some PDA
thin and “rollup” keyboards look even
more frugal.
Use of such interfacing keyboards
has been a popular PIC16F834 or
Atmel AVR micro controller project
for some years but coding has been a
challenge to say the least!
PC keyboards operate via weird hex
“scan codes” that follow no logical
layout and are easiest dealt with via a
lookup table.
Thankfully both the 18A and X PICAXES offer a convenient key-press
keyin reading (which detects the key
press at inputs 6 and 7) for keyvalue
to lookup the associated “scan code”
which can be neatly grouped for
reading under the Picaxe EEPROM
command.
These codes are seamlessly converted to ASCII, then further sent out as
2400bps serial RS232 data for terminal
or LCD display (refer July and August
2003 SILICON CHIP articles).
Given the 256-byte non-volatile
RAM of both the 18A and X, it proved
feasible to use half of this (bytes 0-127
are of course used by the EEPROM)
as a keystroke memory buffer – these
are displayed (and then overwritten)
at next switch on.
This buffer could instead be used
to send a prepared message(s) when
certain keys were pushed, and feasibly
could again hold temperature values
from our November DS1B20 data logger as well.
Classic ASCII codes (pronounced
“ass-key” = American Standard Code
for Information Interchange) began use
with the IBM PC in 1981 (but date in
fact from 1963!), and represent one
of the few forty-years-old computer
technologies still thriving.
The first 128 numbers (256 = 28
for extended ASCII) are grouped into
31 non printing functions, such as 8
= BackSpace (BS) and 13 = Carriage
Return (CR), while 32 – 128 represent
normal alphanumeric characters (65=
A, 66 = B etc).
Only CAPITALS are used in this
program incidentally (these should
be sufficient for messages such as
www.siliconchip.com.au
+3-5V
IC1
PICAXE-18
4.7k
DB9
1 IN 2
22k
3
5
4.7k
IN 1 18
2 SER OUT IN 0 17
2
(TO PC
SERIAL
PORT)
4.7k
10k
3 SER IN
IN 7 16
4 RESET
IN 6 15
5 0V
RESET
4 +V
4-WIRE RIBBON
CONNECTOR
FOR PS/2
5 CLOCK MINI DIN - EX
PC KEYBOARD
1 DATA
SUPPLY 14
6 OUT 0 OUT 7 13
3 0V
PIEZO
LEDS
7 OUT 1 OUT 6 12
K
SERIAL
OUTPUT
TO
TERMINAL
PROGRAM
OR LCD
A
8 OUT 2 OUT 5 11
PICAXE18A
RED
LED λ
9 OUT 3 OUT 4 10
9
18
SC
2003
Picaxe-18a - “KEYBOARDS 101”
Circuit and
protoboard
layout, using
the same
overall scheme
as last month.
Pinouts for
the keyboard
socket
(corresponding
to the
“keyboard”
output
numbers at
right) are
shown below.
1
+V
KEYBOARD
4 1 5 3
2x
3x
4.7kΩ
OUTPUTS
3-5V
PICAXE-18A
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
22kΩ
A
10kΩ
LED
5 3 2
(RS232)
K
0V
RESET
SWITCH
SERIAL (LCD)
OUTPUT
PIEZO
This PICNIK box
and proto-board
layout is a bit
simpler than the
layout diagram
above because
we’ve removed
all of the nonessential wires
and links.
The two pins
painted white
on the miniDIN (keyboard)
socket have no
connection.
December 2003 77
KEYB18XA.BAS
(Also downloadable from:
http://picaxe.orconhosting.net.nz/keyb18xa.bas)
‘KEYB1XA.BAS - for Dec 03 “Silicon Chip” PICAXE-18X/A article.Ver 1.02 2/11/03
‘Converts attached PS/2 PC computer keyboard codes for ASCII display.NB-NOT the
‘normal Prog.Editor PC kbd but an “old PC” one - selected for low power demands.
‘EEPROM command preloads ASCII values into 18X/A data memory for lookup table.
‘When key pressed,it’s “value” used as the data memory address via the read cmd.
‘The correct ASCII value is then shifted from the data memory into variable b1
‘For PICAXE-18X/A or 28X only - will NOT work PICAXE-08 (since no “key” cmds).
‘Refer article & schematic for kbd V & I findings + 18X/A connection details.
‘Via Stan.SWAN =>s.t.swan<at>massey.ac.nz. Comment lines (starting ‘)can be ignored.
‘-------------------------------------------------------------------------------‘
INPUTS
3-5V +supply OUTPUTS
PS/2 (5)(3)(1)(4)
‘+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
keyboard
G S
‘| ,------------|
-typically C R U
‘o o o o------- |
|
SEROUT
_Piezo a recent L O D P
‘KBd.|
| | --------|
|
one takes O U A P
‘ | 0 1 2 6 7 =| PICAXE |=0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
just 2mA C N T L
‘ |
=| 18X(A) |= L
<at> 3V-5V ! K D A Y
‘ |_0V
--------- E
==========
‘
(SERTXD) |* |
D
** =wire to 4.7k | | | |
‘ |||----------------/ * |
| | | | | | | | pullup R & reset | | | |
‘Prog. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Ch OV Ch +5V
‘input Common gnd for serial,kbd,piezo & supply PICAXE-18X/A => 6
7
‘--------------------------------------------------------------------------------serout 2,n2400,(12,”PC keyboard + PICAXE-18X/A terminal”) ‘Power switch on title
wait 1: serout 2,n2400,(12)
‘1 sec.title display then FF(12=FormFeed) = new page
for b0=128 to 255
‘sweep thru’ all upper 128 non volatile RAM locations
read b0,b1
‘stored data values readout to terminal/ LCD at switch on
serout 2,n2400,(b1)
‘EEPROM occupies first 128 bytes of course,so just 128 ch.
next b0
‘~20 spaced words,buffer stored for next power on display
serout 2,n2400,(32)
‘space indictes end of buffered text & fresh display start
‘--------------------------------------------------------------------------------reset: b0=127
‘reset for RAM storage -first 128(0-127) used EEPROM “keyvalues”
kbd:
‘decoding/display routine. SERTXD cmd ideal initial 18X tweaking
for b0=128 to 255
’increment for last 128 keystrokes capture.NB-overwrites earlier
keyin
‘Get the keyboard press.NB-all processing stops until received!
read keyvalue,b1
‘convert key value from keyin cmd into an ASCII character as b1
if keyvalue=$5A then crlf
‘Carriage Return & Line feed routine for Enter key ($5A)
if keyvalue=$66 then bksp
‘backspace key routine for BkSp key ($66)
‘sertxd (b1)
‘pulsout 2,500
‘display <at>4800bps ASCII ch.(via inbuilt F8 ?)NB:SERTXD 18X only!
‘LED flash output 2 confirms key push. SEROUT flashes LED also
serout 2,n2400,(b1)
’pin 2 2400 bps serial output for terminal/LCD display. 18A/X
sound 7,(100,5)
‘key push sound- alter to suit (usual syntax).Remove if tedious !
pause 100
‘may be needed to prevent double ch. sending-alter to suit ~150 ?
write b0,b1
‘stores last 128 raw keystrokes (less CRLF & BS) non volatile RAM
if b0=255 then reset
‘ allow for overwriting initial stored keystroke buffer
next b0
‘increment RAM storage location until 128 ch. buffer is full
goto kbd
‘NB:18X SERTXD ideal tweaking- maybe ‘rem out finally (as here)?
‘---------------------------------------------------------------------------------crlf:
‘CR & LF routine to action ‘Enter’ key press.(ASCII values)
serout 2,n2400,(13,10)
‘force a CR(=13) & LF(=10) for new line display on terminal
sound 7,(80,20)
‘old typewriter CR sound (!?)-alerts to different key press
pause 200
‘”typomatic” delay to prevent double action- alter to suit
goto kbd
‘loop back to main key decoding routine
‘---------------------------------------------------------------------------------bksp:
‘BackSpace routine to action ‘BkSp’ keypress.(ASCII values)
serout 2,n2400,(8)
‘force a BS(=8)on terminal.NB Some term. progs.may ‘ignore’
sound 7,(50,20)
‘raspberry sound (!?)- alerts to different key press
pause 10
‘short delay prevents double BS keypress- alter to suit
goto kbd
‘loop back to main key decoding routine
‘---------------------------------------------------------------------------------‘Keyvalue data via Picaxe Editor:->file ->open ->samples ->keyin.bas CAPITALS only!
EEPROM $00,(“?9?5312C?A864?’?”)
EEPROM $10,(“?????Q1???ZSAW2?”)
EEPROM $20,(“?CXDE43?? VFTR5?”)
EEPROM $30,(“?NBHGY6???MJU78?”)
EEPROM $40,(“?,KIO09??./L;P-?”)
EEPROM $50,(“??’?[=?????]????”)
EEPROM $60,(“?????????1?47???”)
EEPROM $70,(“0.2568??B+3-*9??”)
78 Silicon Chip
‘FN KEYS-all EEPROM values are hexadecimal(base 16)
‘MAIN KBD.Keyvalues run $10-$1F. So $1C=A,$1D=W etc
‘NB “gap” before the “V” =SPACE BAR (keyvalue $29)
‘Refer keyvalue list =>Help- Picaxe-18 -Basic cmds
‘Use “If keyvalue =$xx then action” for ‘capture’
‘further specific keys.Thus if keyvalue=$76 (= Esc)
‘force term.’Escape’ action -> serout 2,n2400,(12)
‘NUMERIC KEYPAD.where 12=FF (ASCII) to clear screen
TABLE 8 – SORRY - YOUR TURKEY
IS BURNT) but with the huge (600
code lines) memory of the 18X, code
can be extended to action further keys
as required.
The circuit has again been built
onto breadboard PICNIK-18 style (refer
November SILICON CHIP), for clarity
stripped to just those few wires actually needed.
Old PC motherboards should supply
a (de soldered) PS/2 socket, so that a
convenient four-wire ribbon cable –
PCB header pin adaptor can be used.
If you are sacrificing the keyboard
however, just cut its fiddly PS/2 plug
off to access and strengthen (perhaps
with IC socket leads) these four wires
for direct connection.
Don’t forget the two 4.7k pullup
resistors to Picaxe inputs 6 and 7, and
also a similar 4.7k at the “18” reset
pin (4).
A reset push switch (to ground) may
be useful here, if only to ensure just the
Picaxe is reset and thus give cleaner
output than a power off (which also
switches the keyboard).
Remote display (from output 2) can
be via any terminal program, such as
Hyperterminal, Bananacom or even
the convenient Picaxe editor’s “F8”.
The Rev. Ed. AXE033 serial LCD,
although only a 16 x 2 display (and
References and
parts suppliers
(also refer to previous months articles)
1. www.asciitable.com lists a lucid (extended) ASCII table.
2. www.beyondlogic.org/keyboard/
keybrd.htm covers classic AT
keyboard interfacing
3. www.picaxe.co.uk (Revolution
Education) – generously
provided 18X & A insights and
graphics.
4. www.picaxe.com (MicroZed) –
Australian master distributor for
all Picaxes and accessories
5. http://www.picaxe.orconhosting.
net.nz/ Authors Picaxe resource
site with program listings and
numerous links.
www.siliconchip.com.au
In Australia and New Zealand
Scan codes for a standard keyboard. Using the code opposite, the PICAXE will
decode these for further use.
needing a good 5V supply), works well
too and naturally removes the need for
a display computer.
Don’t neglect old but reliable DOS
notebooks and mono organisers
(perhaps with damaged keyboards!)
– most have terminal ability too and
some (such as the Sharp OZ/ZQ Wizards or Casio PV organisers) draw only
tiny currents. The “18X” can valuably
have its baud rate wound up from
2400bps to suit these.
Although the program runs on
either the 18A or 18X, the latter
controller offers a handy SERTXD
“tweaking” feature over its programming cable, much as does the baby
“08”via serout 0 .
It’s actioned on an 18X by pushing
F8, and directs serial output data (suitably SERTXD instructed) back to the
editing PC (at 4800 bps as well). Naturally this saves the inconvenience of
both program and D9 cable swapping
if you’ve only a single PC.
It’s tempting to feed the serial data
to a low power 433.92MHz LIPD transmitter (such as the cheap TWS/RWS
pair) for wireless use, with a perhaps
a decoding “08” at the far end.
Tests with these devices, with
ranges enhanced by a 4 element Yagi
gave useful signals at several km (see
http://www.picaxe.orconhosting.net.nz/
yagi433.jpg). We might have a more
detailed look at these sometime in the
future, depending on interest.
But, as confirmed in both my “08”
articles and the November Silicon
Chip “Mr. Vineyard” modem, slower
data rates (300 bps?) and “massaging”
seem inevitable, since useful may not
mean reliable… We’ll cover simple
wireless workarounds, using interrupts and infrared, as part of our next
article early next year.
Happy QWERTYmas !
SC
TAKE
YOUR
PIC
Picaxe.com.au
DISTRIBUTOR
MicroZed.com.au
PHONE (02) 6772 2777 9-5
FAX (02) 6772 8987 24 Hours
ALL PICAXE ITEMS
ON OUR SHELVES!
NEXT MONTH:
We're starting a new series of PICAXE
projects from the makers of the chips,
Rev-Ed in the UK.
But fans of Stan Swan need not be
too concerned: Stan's unique PICAXE
column will return shortly!
Developed for students, &
professional performance makes
PICAXE the most easy-to-use micro
ever: PICAXE "programmer" is
two resistors and a 4.5V battery!
STOCKISTS
In AUSTRALIA:
altronics.com.au
School Electronic Supplies
(John - 03 8802 0628)
In NEW ZEALAND (South Island):
sicom.co.nz
In NEW ZEALAND (North Island):
surplustronics.co.nz
And for chips in Australia:
oatleyelectronics.com
www.siliconchip.com.au
December 2003 79
VINTAGE RADIO
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
The AWA PF 11B-6V car radio
and the Ferris “Tranimate”
We often think that transistorised radios are a
fairly recent innovation. However, solid-state
equipment has been around in reasonable
quantities since the late 1950s or almost half
a century! As a result, many transistorised
receivers now fall into the “vintage” category.
The two items described in this
article certainly fall into that category.
For example, the AWA PF 11B-6V car
radio was a mid-1960s all-transistor
receiver, that was available in two
models: a “standard” model with
a single-ended audio output and an
up-market unit with a push-pull audio
output stage.
The other unit to be described is
the Ferris “Tranimate” which, to the
best of my knowledge, was a unique
Australian innovation. In the 1960s,
dedicated car radios were expensive
“add ons” and this little device was
intended to allow an ordinary household transistor portable to function
as a cheap but effective car radio. A
car radio antenna was installed on
the car, with its coaxial lead plugged
into the Tranimate. The output from
the Tranimate was then coupled to the
portable radio and bingo – you had a
cheap car radio.
AWA VW-1200 car radio
There are lots of people involved in
restoring old cars, often to “as-new”
condition – and in many cases, better
than new. And of course, they want the
radio that’s installed to look and work
just as it did many years ago.
As a result, I’ve recently been
involved in restoring several car radios for vintage car enthusiasts. The
jobs are not always straightforward
though, since car radios are usually a
bit more of a challenge to restore than
“bog-standard” 5-valve AC mantel radios. That’s mainly because car radios
are more compact and so are harder to
access than domestic receivers. They
have also invariably had a rougher
life and are usually better performers
than metal receivers, which means
that you have to know how to get the
most out of them.
Still, it’s always interesting to
restore these old radios and it helps
me recoup some of the outlay for my
hobby.
I’m not too sure how the Volkswagen
driver found me – he simply turned
up one day and asked me if I could get
his 6V AWA car radio going properly.
It was operating but only just – the
stations that could be picked up were
very weak and the set had quite a bit
of noise in it.
Well, it looked like an interesting
project and as luck would have it,
I already had a circuit for the 12V
version of the set (it’s very similar to
the 6V version). I don’t like tackling a
restoration job without a circuit diagram if at all possible, since the job is
always so much quicker and easier if
you have the circuit details.
Opening up the receiver
This old AWA car radio receiver cleaned up quite well and will certainly
look the part inside the restored Volkswagen. Note the press button tuning.
80 Silicon Chip
The first step was to remove the
cover (shield) from the set and this is
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The PC board is mounted upside down inside the chassis but is quite easy to
detach and “swivel” away from the finned heatsink. Note the large preset tuning
mechanism.
done by removing 12 screws around
the top of the case and lifting it clear
(car radios are shielded to minimise
external interference). This reveals
a sheet on the inside of this cover,
showing the locations of the various
transistors and the alignment points on
the PC board. This sort of information
is always very useful when it comes
to servicing the set.
As shown in the above photo, the PC
board is mounted upside down inside
the case with its track side facing upwards. In order to gain access to the
component side, it is necessary to first
“spring” a couple of clips along the
front edge of the PC board. That done,
the front edge of the board can be lifted
up and moved forwards slightly. This
disengages the board from slots in the
heatsink and its back edge can then be
swivelled up.
Once it’s out, it would be quite
easy to short parts of the board to the
earthed metal clips that hold the board
in place. As a result, I placed a layer of
thick cloth between the board and the
clips to prevent this from happening.
I than took a look at the various stages
inside the set but could see nothing
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that was obviously wrong – ie, no
broken wires, overheated components
or the like.
Audio stage troubleshooting
My next step was to connect the
receiver to a 6V DC regulated supply
capable of delivering up to 3A.This
coped quite easily, as the receiver’s
drain is just 1.2A maximum. I then
connected an antenna to the set and
plugged in a 16-ohm loudspeaker.
When it was turned on, it behaved
just as it did in the car. The reception was so noisy receiver that it
was a struggle to pick out any of the
stations. However, this noise was
still there when the volume control
was turned down, so that part of the
problem certainly didn’t involve the
RF section.
Next, I installed a 1000µF electrolytic capacitor across the base to emitter
junction of the 2N408 transistor in the
audio output amplifier and the noise
disappeared. Because the audio amplifier is direct coupled, I reasoned, incorrectly as it turned out, that the 2N408
was noisy (this can be a problem with
germanium transistors). I didn’t have
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December 2003 81
A piece of cloth was placed underneath the PC board
to prevent shorts to other components when power
was applied during servicing
any 2N408 germanium transistors,
so I fitted a BC558 silicon transistor
instead. The transistor worked OK but
the noise was still there.
It was then that I spotted an electrolytic capacitor that was starting to
bulge at one end. This too was replaced
but rather surprisingly, it made no
difference.
What next to try? First, resistor R20
needed to be replaced with a lower
value, so that the BC558 I had substituted (and the other stages) would be
biased correctly. The original resistor
was 15kΩ (remember this is the 6V
version of this receiver), so I replaced
it with a 10kΩ resistor. And would you
believe it? – the noise disappeared.
So I had jumped to the wrong
conclusion that the old germanium
transistor was noisy. In fact, I should
have woken up to this when I first
82 Silicon Chip
tried the electrolytic capacitor across
the base-emitter junction. The audio
stage now performed as it should,
with quite good gain and just a slight
background hiss, so I was half-way
through fault finding.
RF stage repairs
Checking the front end wasn’t quite
as easy, not that direct-coupled audio
stages are always a joy to work on.
The set couldn’t receive any stations,
so I decided to begin by checking the
intermediate frequency (IF) stage.
To do this, I first connected a 10nF
ceramic capacitor in series with the
output of an RF signal generator. The
RF generator was then set to 455kHz
and its output fed, in turn, to various
points of the IF amplifier. However,
the output levels varied according
to where the probe was placed, due
to the capacitive voltage divider and
the heavy loading I was placing on the
tuned circuits with the crude probe I
was using. As a result, there was no
clear-cut indication of the performance
of the IF amplifier.
Next, I fed the RF generator’s signal
into the base of the converter (VT2)
and carefully aligned the IF amplifier
stages. This noticeably improved the
performance of this stage but the receiver was still having trouble picking
up stations.
By now, I was beginning to think
that the converter wasn’t converting
the signal frequency to the IF (intermediate frequency). To test this theory,
I tuned the set to the low-frequency
end of the dial and then tuned another
receiver to 1200kHz and placed its
antenna lead adjacent to the car set’s
converter stage. I then tuned the car
www.siliconchip.com.au
radio upwards from 530kHz and was
greeted by noise quietening as the car
radio’s oscillator went past 1200kHz.
So the oscillator was working and
hence the converter probably was
too. But there was still no sign of
stations!
I then did some measurements
around the RF stage and found that
there was 6V on the collector of this
transistor instead of 0V. The cause
wasn’t hard to find – RF choke L2 was
open circuit! A quick hunt around my
workshop soon turned up some small
Dai-1Chi 5mH RF chokes that I had and
I fitted one into the receiver. And that
was it – the collector voltage on the RF
transistor dropped to 0V and the set
burst forth into glorious sound.
Now that the set was operating
properly, all that remained was to
align the front end and give it a good
clean up. The oscillator alignment was
already correct but trimmer capacitor
C7, which peaks the RF stage at the
high frequency end of the tuning
range, had been adjusted for maximum
capacitance and was difficult to move.
In fact, it appeared that the trimmer
didn’t have enough range to peak the
alignment of this stage. This problem
was solved by connecting a 10pF NPO
ceramic capacitor in parallel with
the trimmer (under the board), after
which I was able to peak the RF stage
alignment.
Final peaking of the RF and oscillator stages is carried through a hole
in the base of the set once the metal
cover is back in place. In particular,
the antenna circuit cannot be peaked
until the receiver is in the vehicle and
attached to the fully extended antenna.
To do this, the set is tuned to a weak
station at around 1500kHz and the
flat knob on the underside of the set
is rotated until the best performance
is achieved.
Cleaning up
Having got the set working correctly,
I then proceeded to clean up the case
as much as practical. The knobs were
washed in the laundry sink in soapy
water and I used a small nail brush
to remove the dirt from between the
ridges in the knobs. In addition, the
two smaller knobs had peeling black
paint in their centres so I put a small
amount of flat black enamel paint on
them to make them look original.
The case itself had a couple of pieces
of masking tape and other bits of muck
www.siliconchip.com.au
Photo Gallery: Peter Pan Model
BKJ 5-Valve Receiver
Housed in a stylish wooden cabinet, the Peter Pan BKJ was a 5-valve dual-wave
mantel receiver which covered the medium-wave (broadcast) and the 5.88-18.75MHz
shortwave bands. It was manufactured around 1946 by Eclipse Radio Pty Ltd (Melbourne) and used the following valves: 6J8-G frequency changer; 6U7-G IF amplifier;
6B6-G detector, AVC detector and first audio amplifier; 6V6-G audio output; and 5Y3-G
rectifier. (Photo courtesy Historical Radio Society Of Australia (Inc.).
stuck to it which I scraped off. I then
used a eucalyptus-soaked rag to clean
the case and the front panel. A kitchen
scourer was then used to remove some
of the more stubborn marks although
this was done rather gently because
I didn’t want to destroy any of the
wanted markings on the case.
In the end, both the case and the
front panel looked quite good, although they still weren’t exactly in
pristine condition.
Brief circuit details
OK, let’s now take a brief look at the
circuit details of this AWA car radio
receiver – see Fig.1. As shown, the
antenna input is a typical car radio
input circuit, where the capacitance
of the coaxial cable from the antenna
forms part of the tuned circuit. That’s
why the antenna circuit cannot be
peaked for best performance until
the set is installed in the car. Note
that the actual tuning of this and the
following stages is done by a variable
inductance tuner.
Transistor VT1 amplifies and
applies the signal through another
inductance tuned circuit to an autodyne mixer/converter stage based on
transistor VT2. This stage converts the
A Note On IF Alignment
The December 2002, January 2003 and February 2003 issues covered
the subject of receiver alignment. As a follow-up to this, John Breden from
New Zealand advocates doing the IF alignment with the tuning gang in the
fully unmeshed position, as this obviates the possibility of tuning the IF to the
bottom of the broadcast band when the gang is closed.
This can and has happened when the IF alignment is done without using
a signal generator.
It is rare but does happen when over-enthusiastic people alter the alignment
adjustments without knowing what they are doing. Using a signal generator
ensures that the IF is aligned to the correct frequency. So if you do align the
IF without using a signal generator, just be careful you don’t fall into this trap.
December 2003 83
The Ferris
“Tranimate”
Ferris Radio (Australia) were renowned for making many innovative
devices and the “Tranimate” was one
of them. “What’s the Tranimate?”, you
may well ask. Well, the Tranimate
was a 2-transistor tuned amplifier
designed to accept a signal from a
car radio antenna and output it to a
domestic portable transistor radio.
It worked like this: a car radio
antenna was installed on the car,
complete with its coaxial cable lead.
This lead was then plugged into the
Tranimate which was screw-mounted
to the underside of the dash panel
of the car (remember, you could do
those things in 1960s cars).
The Tranimate had an input tuned
circuit and this was manually tuned
by a small tuning gang. The dial was
calibrated with some stations but being so small, only a few representative
stations were marked.
The tuned signal was first amplified
by a transistor operating in common
emitter configuration and then fed to a
second transistor wired as an emitter
follower. From there, the resulting
RF output was then fed down a thin
coaxial cable to a ferrite-cored coil
which was clipped to the transistor
radio so that it was in line with the
portable’s loopstick antenna. As a
result, the signal in the Tranimate’s
coil was induced into the loopstick
antenna and so the portable received
a clear signal.
Of course, a portable radio will
work in a car without a “signal booster” such as the Tranimate. However,
the signals tend to be weak and the
vehicle’s electrical equipment, particularly the ignition system, interferes
severely with reception. Hence the
reason for the Tranimate – it picked up
a relatively noise-free signal in a good
signal environment and amplified it
so that the noise from the vehicle’s
ignition became insignificant.
The Tranimate was powered by
a 216 battery slipped into the case
at one end. The circuitry inside the
plastic case is shielded from interference within the vehicle by metallic
plating of the inside of the case. The
tuning dial on the front is peaked up
for best reception of the station being
received.
84 Silicon Chip
The top view shows the Ferris “Tranimate”, complete with its coupling coil
and connecting coaxial cable, while immediately above is the view inside
the case. The complete unit is around the size of a packet of cigarettes.
So that was it – a simple little device that filled a small niche market
for the many people who could not
afford both a transistor portable and
a car radio at the time. I doubt that it
proved to be a winner and I obtained
mine at a clearance price. Still, it’s a
desirable item to have in a vintage
radio collection, because they are so
rare and innovative for their era.
www.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the circuit is a fairly conventional 6-transistor superhet design. Transistor
VT1 provides RF gain, while VT2 and VT3 function as the converter and IF gain
stages respectively. Diode MR2 is the detector and this feeds a direct-coupled
audio amplifier based on transistors VT4-VT6.
input signal to 455kHz and feeds it to
the IF stage.
The IF stage is based on VT3. It
amplifies the signal and because of the
high gain of this stage, it is neutralised
using capacitor C18. AGC is developed
from the signal at VT3’s collector via
C17 and diode MR1. This AGC is only
applied to VT1 in the RF stage but,
although it’s only applied to this one
stage, is still quite effective.
Detector
Diode MR2 at the output of IF transformer TR3 functions as the detector.
It feeds the detected audio signal to
the volume and tone controls, and
thence to the audio amplifier stage
which is based on transistors VT4VT6. Direct-coupled audio amplifiers
are quite common and in operation,
each stage interacts with the others.
This can make fault-finding difficult
if there is a DC fault.
Because some of the transistors are
germanium types, it is necessary to
stabilise the audio amplifier against
thermal runaway with increased temperature. This is done using thermistor
TH1 which acts to stabilise the current
drawn by the audio amplifier with
increased temperature.
VT5 is the only NPN transistor and
it has a small heatsink attached to it.
VT6, a 2N301, is mounted on the rear
heatsink and only gets slightly warm,
even after the set has been running
for some time. An auto transformer
(L7) couples the audio signal on VT6’s
collector to the loudspeaker.
Summary
This AWA car radio is a good example of germanium transistor design.
The circuit is relatively simple and
by altering just a few components, the
basic design can be adapted to either
6V or 12V DC operation. It is also quite
a good performer for a car radio from
the 1960s.
This particular set was not difficult
to restore and it showed only moderate signs of wear and tear. The pressbutton station selector still works well
and in general, it’s a receiver I would
be happy to have in my collection.
The only real criticism I have is that
the PC boards of the era are hard to
work on. The leads coming through
the board are usually bent over along
the copper tracks, making it difficult
to remove a component for testing.
It’s also necessary to be careful when
www.siliconchip.com.au
soldering to ensure that the tracks
aren’t heated excessively, otherwise
they will separate from the board or
damage one of the leads.
Finally, I find that the circuits on
these phenolic boards are difficult to
trace at times! And the draughtsman
who drew the circuit diagram omitted
the earth/chassis connection on the
SC
0V rail.
December 2003 85
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Silicon Chip Back Issues
SLA Battery Charger; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.10.
August 1994: High-Power Dimmer For Incandescent Lights; Dual Diversity Tuner For FM Microphones, Pt.1; Nicad Zapper (For Resurrecting
Nicad Batteries); Electronic Engine Management, Pt.11.
September 1994: Automatic Discharger For Nicad Batteries; MiniVox
Voice Operated Relay; AM Radio For Weather Beacons; Dual Diversity
Tuner For FM Mics, Pt.2; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.12.
April 1989: Auxiliary Brake Light Flasher; What You Need to Know
About Capacitors; 32-Band Graphic Equaliser, Pt.2.
December 1991: TV Transmitter For VCRs With UHF Modulators; IR
Light Beam Relay; Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.2; Index To Vol.4.
May 1989: Build A Synthesised Tom-Tom; Biofeedback Monitor For
Your PC; Simple Stub Filter For Suppressing TV Interference.
March 1992: TV Transmitter For VHF VCRs; Thermostatic Switch For
Car Radiator Fans; Valve Substitution In Vintage Radios.
July 1989: Exhaust Gas Monitor; Experimental Mains Hum Sniffers;
Compact Ultrasonic Car Alarm; The NSW 86 Class Electrics.
April 1992: IR Remote Control For Model Railroads; Differential Input
Buffer For CROs; Understanding Computer Memory; Aligning Vintage
Radio Receivers, Pt.1.
September 1989: 2-Chip Portable AM Stereo Radio Pt.1; High Or Low
Fluid Level Detector; Studio Series 20-Band Stereo Equaliser, Pt.2.
October 1989: FM Radio Intercom For Motorbikes Pt.1; GaAsFet
Preamplifier For Amateur TV; 2-Chip Portable AM Stereo Radio, Pt.2.
November 1989: Radfax Decoder For Your PC (Displays Fax, RTTY &
Morse); FM Radio Intercom For Motorbikes, Pt.2; 2-Chip Portable AM
Stereo Radio, Pt.3; Floppy Disk Drive Formats & Options.
June 1992: Multi-Station Headset Intercom, Pt.1; Video Switcher For
Camcorders & VCRs; IR Remote Control For Model Railroads, Pt.3;
15-Watt 12-240V Inverter; A Look At Hard Disk Drives.
October 1992: 2kW 24VDC - 240VAC Sinewave Inverter; Multi-Sector
Home Burglar Alarm, Pt.2; Mini Amplifier For Personal Stereos; A
Regulated Lead-Acid Battery Charger.
October 1994: How Dolby Surround Sound Works; Dual Rail Variable
Power Supply; Build A Talking Headlight Reminder; Electronic Ballast
For Fluorescent Lights; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.13.
November 1994: Dry Cell Battery Rejuvenator; Novel Alphanumeric
Clock; 80-Metre DSB Amateur Transmitter; Twin-Cell Nicad Discharger
(See May 1993); How To Plot Patterns Direct to PC Boards.
December 1994: Easy-To-Build Car Burglar Alarm; Three-Spot Low
Distortion Sinewave Oscillator; Clifford – A Pesky Electronic Cricket;
Remote Control System for Models, Pt.1; Index to Vol.7.
January 1995: Sun Tracker For Solar Panels; Battery Saver For Torches;
Dual Channel UHF Remote Control; Stereo Microphone Preamplifier.
February 1995: 2 x 50W Stereo Amplifier Module; Digital Effects Unit
For Musicians; 6-Channel Thermometer With LCD Readout; Wide
Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers, Pt.1; Oil Change Timer For Cars;
Remote Control System For Models, Pt.2.
January 1990: High Quality Sine/Square Oscillator; Service Tips For
Your VCR; Active Antenna Kit; Designing UHF Transmitter Stages.
February 1993: Three Projects For Model Railroads; Low Fuel Indicator
For Cars; Audio Level/VU Meter (LED Readout); An Electronic Cockroach; 2kW 24VDC To 240VAC Sinewave Inverter, Pt.5.
February 1990: A 16-Channel Mixing Desk; Build A High Quality Audio
Oscillator, Pt.2; The Incredible Hot Canaries; Random Wire Antenna
Tuner For 6 Metres; Phone Patch For Radio Amateurs, Pt.2.
March 1993: Solar Charger For 12V Batteries; Alarm-Triggered Security
Camera; Reaction Trainer; Audio Mixer for Camcorders; A 24-Hour
Sidereal Clock For Astronomers.
March 1990: Delay Unit For Automatic Antennas; Workout Timer For
Aerobics Classes; 16-Channel Mixing Desk, Pt.2; Using The UC3906
SLA Battery Charger IC.
April 1993: Solar-Powered Electric Fence; Audio Power Meter;
Three-Function Home Weather Station; 12VDC To 70VDC Converter;
Digital Clock With Battery Back-Up.
April 1990: Dual Tracking ±50V Power Supply; Voice-Operated Switch
With Delayed Audio; 16-Channel Mixing Desk, Pt.3; Active CW Filter.
June 1993: AM Radio Trainer, Pt.1; Remote Control For The Woofer
Stopper; Digital Voltmeter For Cars; Windows-Based Logic Analyser.
May 1995: Build A Guitar Headphone Amplifier; FM Radio Trainer, Pt.2;
Transistor/Mosfet Tester For DMMs; A 16-Channel Decoder For Radio
Remote Control; Introduction to Satellite TV.
June 1990: Multi-Sector Home Burglar Alarm; Build A Low-Noise
Universal Stereo Preamplifier; Load Protector For Power Supplies.
July 1993: Single Chip Message Recorder; Light Beam Relay
Extender; AM Radio Trainer, Pt.2; Quiz Game Adjudicator; Windows-Based Logic Analyser, Pt.2; Antenna Tuners – Why They Are
Useful.
June 1995: Build A Satellite TV Receiver; Train Detector For Model
Railways; 1W Audio Amplifier Trainer; Low-Cost Video Security System;
Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter For Models, Pt.1.
July 1990: Digital Sine/Square Generator, Pt.1 (covers 0-500kHz);
Burglar Alarm Keypad & Combination Lock; Build A Simple Electronic
Die; A Low-Cost Dual Power Supply.
August 1990: High Stability UHF Remote Transmitter; Universal Safety
Timer For Mains Appliances (9 Minutes); Horace The Electronic Cricket;
Digital Sine/Square Generator, Pt.2.
September 1990: A Low-Cost 3-Digit Counter Module; Build A Simple
Shortwave Converter For The 2-Metre Band; The Care & Feeding Of
Nicad Battery Packs (Getting The Most From Nicad Batteries).
October 1990: The Dangers of PCBs; Low-Cost Siren For Burglar
Alarms; Dimming Controls For The Discolight; Surfsound Simulator;
DC Offset For DMMs; NE602 Converter Circuits.
November 1990: Connecting Two TV Sets To One VCR; Build An Egg
Timer; Low-Cost Model Train Controller; 1.5V To 9V DC Converter;
Introduction To Digital Electronics; A 6-Metre Amateur Transmitter.
January 1991: Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries, Pt.1; Have Fun With
The Fruit Machine (Simple Poker Machine); Build A Two-Tone Alarm
Module; The Dangers of Servicing Microwave Ovens.
March 1991: Transistor Beta Tester Mk.2; A Synthesised AM Stereo
Tuner, Pt.2; Multi-Purpose I/O Board For PC-Compatibles; Universal
Wideband RF Preamplifier For Amateur Radio & TV.
May 1991: 13.5V 25A Power Supply For Transceivers; Stereo Audio
Expander; Fluorescent Light Simulator For Model Railways; How To
Install Multiple TV Outlets, Pt.1.
July 1991: Loudspeaker Protector For Stereo Amplifiers; 4-Channel
Lighting Desk, Pt.2; How To Install Multiple TV Outlets, Pt.2; Tuning
In To Satellite TV, Pt.2.
September 1991: Digital Altimeter For Gliders & Ultralights; Ultrasonic
Switch For Mains Appliances; The Basics Of A/D & D/A Conversion;
Plotting The Course Of Thunderstorms.
October 1991: A Talking Voltmeter For Your PC, Pt.1; SteamSound
Simulator For Model Railways Mk.II; Magnetic Field Strength Meter;
Digital Altimeter For Gliders, Pt.2; Military Applications Of R/C Aircraft.
November 1991: Build A Colour TV Pattern Generator, Pt.1; A Junkbox
2-Valve Receiver; Flashing Alarm Light For Cars; Digital Altimeter For
Gliders, Pt.3; Build A Talking Voltmeter For Your PC, Pt.2.
ORDER FORM
March 1995: 2 x 50W Stereo Amplifier, Pt.1; Subcarrier Decoder
For FM Receivers; Wide Range Electrostatic Loudspeakers, Pt.2; IR
Illuminator For CCD Cameras; Remote Control System For Models, Pt.3.
April 1995: FM Radio Trainer, Pt.1; Balanced Mic Preamp & Line
Filter; 50W/Channel Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2; Wide Range Electrostatic
Loudspeakers, Pt.3; 8-Channel Decoder For Radio Remote Control.
August 1993: Low-Cost Colour Video Fader; 60-LED Brake Light
Array; Microprocessor-Based Sidereal Clock; Satellites & Their Orbits.
July 1995: Electric Fence Controller; How To Run Two Trains On A
Single Track (Incl. Lights & Sound); Setting Up A Satellite TV Ground
Station; Build A Reliable Door Minder.
September 1993: Automatic Nicad Battery Charger/Discharger; Stereo
Preamplifier With IR Remote Control, Pt.1; In-Circuit Transistor Tester;
+5V to ±15V DC Converter; Remote-Controlled Cockroach.
August 1995: Fuel Injector Monitor For Cars; Gain Controlled Microphone Preamp; Audio Lab PC-Controlled Test Instrument, Pt.1; How
To Identify IDE Hard Disk Drive Parameters.
October 1993: Courtesy Light Switch-Off Timer For Cars; Wireless
Microphone For Musicians; Stereo Preamplifier With IR Remote
Control, Pt.2; Electronic Engine Management, Pt.1.
September 1995: Railpower Mk.2 Walkaround Throttle For Model
Railways, Pt.1; Keypad Combination Lock; The Vader Voice; Jacob’s
Ladder Display; Audio Lab PC-Controlled Test Instrument, Pt.2.
November 1993: High Efficiency Inverter For Fluorescent Tubes; Stereo
Preamplifier With IR Remote Control, Pt.3; Siren Sound Generator;
Engine Management, Pt.2; Experiments For Games Cards.
October 1995: 3-Way Loudspeaker System; Railpower Mk.2
Walkaround Throttle For Model Railways, Pt.2; Build A Fast Charger
For Nicad Batteries.
December 1993: Remote Controller For Garage Doors; Build A LED
Stroboscope; Build A 25W Audio Amplifier Module; A 1-Chip Melody
Generator; Engine Management, Pt.3; Index To Volume 6.
November 1995: Mixture Display For Fuel Injected Cars; CB Transverter
For The 80M Amateur Band, Pt.1; PIR Movement Detector.
January 1994: 3A 40V Variable Power Supply; Solar Panel Switching
Regulator; Printer Status Indicator; Mini Drill Speed Controller; Stepper
Motor Controller; Active Filter Design; Engine Management, Pt.4.
February 1994: Build A 90-Second Message Recorder; 12-240VAC
200W Inverter; 0.5W Audio Amplifier; 3A 40V Adjustable Power
Supply; Engine Management, Pt.5; Airbags In Cars – How They Work.
March 1994: Intelligent IR Remote Controller; 50W (LM3876) Audio
Amplifier Module; Level Crossing Detector For Model Railways; Voice
Activated Switch For FM Microphones; Engine Management, Pt.6.
December 1995: Engine Immobiliser; 5-Band Equaliser; CB Transverter
For The 80M Amateur Band, Pt.2; Subwoofer Controller; Knock Sensing
In Cars; Index To Volume 8.
January 1996: Surround Sound Mixer & Decoder, Pt.1; Magnetic Card
Reader; Build An Automatic Sprinkler Controller; IR Remote Control
For The Railpower Mk.2; Recharging Nicad Batteries For Long Life.
April 1996: 125W Audio Amplifier Module; Knock Indicator For Leaded
Petrol Engines; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter; Pt.3.
May 1996: High Voltage Insulation Tester; Knightrider LED Chaser;
Simple Intercom Uses Optical Cable; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.3.
April 1994: Sound & Lights For Model Railway Level Crossings; Discrete
Dual Supply Voltage Regulator; Universal Stereo Preamplifier; Digital
Water Tank Gauge; Engine Management, Pt.7.
June 1996: Stereo Simulator (uses delay chip); Rope Light Chaser;
Low Ohms Tester For Your DMM; Automatic 10A Battery Charger.
May 1994: Fast Charger For Nicad Batteries; Induction Balance Metal
Locator; Multi-Channel Infrared Remote Control; Dual Electronic Dice;
Simple Servo Driver Circuits; Engine Management, Pt.8.
July 1996: Build A VGA Digital Oscilloscope, Pt.1; Remote Control
Extender For VCRs; 2A SLA Battery Charger; 3-Band Parametric
Equaliser; Single Channel 8-Bit Data Logger.
June 1994: A Coolant Level Alarm For Your Car; 80-Metre AM/CW
Transmitter For Amateurs; Converting Phono Inputs To Line Inputs;
PC-Based Nicad Battery Monitor; Engine Management, Pt.9.
August 1996: Introduction to IGBTs; Electronic Starter For Fluorescent
Lamps; VGA Oscilloscope, Pt.2; 350W Amplifier Module; Masthead
Amplifier For TV & FM; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.4.
July 1994: Build A 4-Bay Bow-Tie UHF TV Antenna; PreChamp 2-Transistor Preamplifier; Steam Train Whistle & Diesel Horn Simulator; 6V
September 1996: VGA Oscilloscope, Pt.3; IR Stereo Headphone Link,
Pt.1; High Quality PA Loudspeaker; 3-Band HF Amateur Radio Receiver;
Please send the following back issues:________________________________________
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Note: prices include postage & packing
Australia ............................... $A8.80 (incl. GST)
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Detach and mail to:
Silicon Chip Publications, PO Box 139, Collaroy,
NSW, Australia 2097.
Or call (02) 9979 5644 & quote your credit card
details or fax the details to (02) 9979 6503.
Email: silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
www.siliconchip.com.au
Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.5.
October 1996: Send Video Signals Over Twisted Pair Cable; 600W
DC-DC Converter For Car Hifi Systems, Pt.1; IR Stereo Headphone
Link, Pt.2; Multi-Channel Radio Control Transmitter, Pt.8.
June 1999: FM Radio Tuner Card For PCs; X-Y Table With Stepper Motor
Control, Pt.2; Programmable Ignition Timing Module For Cars, Pt.1;
Hard Disk Drive Upgrades Without Reinstalling Software?
November 1996: 8-Channel Stereo Mixer, Pt.1; Low-Cost Fluorescent
Light Inverter; Repairing Domestic Light Dimmers; 600W DC-DC
Converter For Car Hifi Systems, Pt.2.
July 1999: Build A Dog Silencer; 10µH to 19.99mH Inductance Meter;
Build An Audio-Video Transmitter; Programmable Ignition Timing
Module For Cars, Pt.2; XYZ Table With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.3.
December 1996: Active Filter Cleans Up Your CW Reception; A Fast
Clock For Railway Modellers; Laser Pistol & Electronic Target; Build
A Sound Level Meter; 8-Channel Stereo Mixer, Pt.2; Index To Vol.9.
August 1999: Remote Modem Controller; Daytime Running Lights For
Cars; Build A PC Monitor Checker; Switching Temperature Controller;
XYZ Table With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.4; Electric Lighting, Pt.14.
February 2002: 10-Channel IR Remote Control Receiver; 2.4GHz
High-Power Audio-Video Link; Assemble Your Own 2-Way Tower
Speakers; Touch And/Or Remote-Controlled Light Dimmer, Pt.2;
Booting A PC Without A Keyboard; 4-Way Event Timer.
January 1997: How To Network Your PC; Control Panel For Multiple
Smoke Alarms, Pt.1; Build A Pink Noise Source; Computer Controlled
Dual Power Supply, Pt.1; Digi-Temp Monitors Eight Temperatures.
September 1999: Autonomouse The Robot, Pt.1; Voice Direct Speech
Recognition Module; Digital Electrolytic Capacitance Meter; XYZ Table
With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.5; Peltier-Powered Can Cooler.
February 1997: PC-Controlled Moving Message Display; Computer
Controlled Dual Power Supply, Pt.2; Alert-A-Phone Loud Sounding
Telephone Alarm; Control Panel For Multiple Smoke Alarms, Pt.2.
October 1999: Build The Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.1;
Semiconductor Curve Tracer; Autonomouse The Robot, Pt.2; XYZ
Table With Stepper Motor Control, Pt.6; Introducing Home Theatre.
March 2002: Mighty Midget Audio Amplifier Module; The Itsy-Bitsy
USB Lamp; 6-Channel IR Remote Volume Control, Pt.1; RIAA Pre-Amplifier For Magnetic Cartridges; 12/24V Intelligent Solar Power
Battery Charger; Generate Audio Tones Using Your PC’s Soundcard.
March 1997: Driving A Computer By Remote Control; Plastic Power
PA Amplifier (175W); Signalling & Lighting For Model Railways; Build
A Jumbo LED Clock; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.7.
November 1999: Setting Up An Email Server; Speed Alarm For Cars,
Pt.1; LED Christmas Tree; Intercom Station Expander; Foldback Loudspeaker System; Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.2.
April 1997: Simple Timer With No ICs; Digital Voltmeter For Cars;
Loudspeaker Protector For Stereo Amplifiers; Model Train Controller;
A Look At Signal Tracing; Pt.1; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.8.
December 1999: Solar Panel Regulator; PC Powerhouse (gives +12V,
+9V, +6V & +5V rails); Fortune Finder Metal Locator; Speed Alarm For
Cars, Pt.2; Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.3; Index To Vol.12.
May 1997: Neon Tube Modulator For Light Systems; Traffic Lights For
A Model Intersection; The Spacewriter – It Writes Messages In Thin
Air; A Look At Signal Tracing; Pt.2; Cathode Ray Oscilloscopes, Pt.9.
January 2000: Spring Reverberation Module; An Audio-Video Test
Generator; Build The Picman Programmable Robot; A Parallel Port
Interface Card; Off-Hook Indicator For Telephone Lines.
June 1997: PC-Controlled Thermometer/Thermostat; TV Pattern
Generator, Pt.1; Audio/RF Signal Tracer; High-Current Speed Controller
For 12V/24V Motors; Manual Control Circuit For Stepper Motors.
February 2000: Multi-Sector Sprinkler Controller; A Digital Voltmeter
For Your Car; An Ultrasonic Parking Radar; Build A Safety Switch
Checker; Build A Sine/Square Wave Oscillator.
July 1997: Infrared Remote Volume Control; A Flexible Interface Card
For PCs; Points Controller For Model Railways; Colour TV Pattern
Generator, Pt.2; An In-Line Mixer For Radio Control Receivers.
March 2000: Resurrecting An Old Computer; Low Distortion 100W
Amplifier Module, Pt.1; Electronic Wind Vane With 16-LED Display;
Glowplug Driver For Powered Models; The OzTrip Car Computer, Pt.1.
August 1997: The Bass Barrel Subwoofer; 500 Watt Audio Power
Amplifier Module; A TENs Unit For Pain Relief; Addressable PC Card
For Stepper Motor Control; Remote Controlled Gates For Your Home.
May 2000: Ultra-LD Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2; Build A LED Dice (With
PIC Microcontroller); Low-Cost AT Keyboard Translator (Converts
IBM Scan-Codes To ASCII); 50A Motor Speed Controller For Models.
October 1997: Build A 5-Digit Tachometer; Add Central Locking To Your
Car; PC-Controlled 6-Channel Voltmeter; 500W Audio Power Amplifier,
Pt.3; Customising The Windows 95 Start Menu.
June 2000: Automatic Rain Gauge With Digital Readout; Parallel Port
VHF FM Receiver; Li’l Powerhouse Switchmode Power Supply (1.23V
to 40V) Pt.1; CD Compressor For Cars Or The Home.
November 1997: Heavy Duty 10A 240VAC Motor Speed Controller;
Easy-To-Use Cable & Wiring Tester; Build A Musical Doorbell; Replacing Foam Speaker Surrounds; Understanding Electric Lighting Pt.1.
July 2000: A Moving Message Display; Compact Fluorescent Lamp
Driver; El-Cheapo Musicians’ Lead Tester; Li’l Powerhouse Switchmode
Power Supply (1.23V to 40V) Pt.2.
December 1997: Speed Alarm For Cars; 2-Axis Robot With Gripper;
Stepper Motor Driver With Onboard Buffer; Power Supply For Stepper
Motor Cards; Understanding Electric Lighting Pt.2; Index To Vol.10.
August 2000: Build A Theremin For Really Eeerie Sounds; Come In
Spinner (writes messages in “thin-air”); Proximity Switch For 240VAC
Lamps; Structured Cabling For Computer Networks.
January 1998: Build Your Own 4-Channel Lightshow, Pt.1 (runs off
12VDC or 12VAC); Command Control System For Model Railways,
Pt.1; Pan Controller For CCD Cameras.
September 2000: Build A Swimming Pool Alarm; An 8-Channel PC
Relay Board; Fuel Mixture Display For Cars, Pt.1; Protoboards – The
Easy Way Into Electronics, Pt.1; Cybug The Solar Fly.
February 1998: Multi-Purpose Fast Battery Charger, Pt.1; Telephone
Exchange Simulator For Testing; Command Control System For Model
Railways, Pt.2; Build Your Own 4-Channel Lightshow, Pt.2.
October 2000: Guitar Jammer For Practice & Jam Sessions; Booze
Buster Breath Tester; A Wand-Mounted Inspection Camera; Installing
A Free-Air Subwoofer In Your Car; Fuel Mixture Display For Cars, Pt.2.
February 2003: PortaPal Public Address System, Pt.1; 240V Mains
Filter For HiFi Systems; SC480 50W RMS Amplifier Module, Pt.2;
Windows-Based EPROM Programmer, Pt.3; Using Linux To Share An
Optus Cable Modem, Pt.4; Fun With The PICAXE, Pt.1.
April 1998: Automatic Garage Door Opener, Pt.1; 40V 8A Adjustable
Power Supply, Pt.1; PC-Controlled 0-30kHz Sinewave Generator; Build
A Laser Light Show; Understanding Electric Lighting; Pt.6.
November 2000: Santa & Rudolf Chrissie Display; 2-Channel Guitar
Preamplifier, Pt.1; Message Bank & Missed Call Alert; Protoboards –
The Easy Way Into Electronics, Pt.3.
May 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.1; Build A 3-LED Logic Probe;
Automatic Garage Door Opener, Pt.2; Command Control For Model
Railways, Pt.4; 40V 8A Adjustable Power Supply, Pt.2.
December 2000: Home Networking For Shared Internet Access; Build
A Bright-White LED Torch; 2-Channel Guitar Preamplifier, Pt.2 (Digital
Reverb); Driving An LCD From The Parallel Port; Index To Vol.13.
March 2003: LED Lighting For Your Car; Peltier-Effect Tinnie Cooler;
PortaPal Public Address System, Pt.2; 12V SLA Battery Float Charger;
Build The Little Dynamite Subwoofer; Fun With The PICAXE, Pt.2
(Shop Door Minder); SuperCharger Addendum; Emergency Beacons.
June 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.2; Universal High Energy
Ignition System; The Roadies’ Friend Cable Tester; Universal Stepper
Motor Controller; Command Control For Model Railways, Pt.5.
January 2001: How To Transfer LPs & Tapes To CD; The LP Doctor –
Clean Up Clicks & Pops, Pt.1; Arbitrary Waveform Generator; 2-Channel
Guitar Preamplifier, Pt.3; PIC Programmer & TestBed.
July 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.3; 15W/Ch Class-A Audio
Amplifier, Pt.1; Simple Charger For 6V & 12V SLA Batteries; Auto
matic Semiconductor Analyser; Understanding Electric Lighting, Pt.8.
February 2001: An Easy Way To Make PC Boards; L’il Pulser Train
Controller; A MIDI Interface For PCs; Build The Bass Blazer; 2-Metre
Groundplane Antenna; The LP Doctor – Clean Up Clicks & Pops, Pt.2.
August 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.4; Simple I/O Card With
Automatic Data Logging; Build A Beat Triggered Strobe; 15W/Ch
Class-A Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2.
March 2001: Making Photo Resist PC Boards; Big-Digit 12/24 Hour
Clock; Parallel Port PIC Programmer & Checkerboard; Protoboards –
The Easy Way Into Electronics, Pt.5; A Simple MIDI Expansion Box.
September 1998: Troubleshooting Your PC, Pt.5; A Blocked Air-Filter
Alarm; Waa-Waa Pedal For Guitars; Jacob’s Ladder; Gear Change
Indicator For Cars; Capacity Indicator For Rechargeable Batteries.
April 2001: A GPS Module For Your PC; Dr Video – An Easy-To-Build
Video Stabiliser; Tremolo Unit For Musicians; Minimitter FM Stereo
Transmitter; Intelligent Nicad Battery Charger.
July 2003: Smart Card Reader & Programmer; Power-Up Auto Mains
Switch; A “Smart” Slave Flash Trigger; Programmable Continuity Tester;
PICAXE Pt.6 – Data Communications; Updating The PIC Programmer
& Checkerboard; RFID Tags – How They Work.
October 1998: AC Millivoltmeter, Pt.1; PC-Controlled Stress-O-Meter;
Versatile Electronic Guitar Limiter; 12V Trickle Charger For Float Conditions; Adding An External Battery Pack To Your Flashgun.
May 2001: Powerful 12V Mini Stereo Amplifier; Two White-LED Torches
To Build; PowerPak – A Multi-Voltage Power Supply; Using Linux To
Share An Internet Connection, Pt.1; Tweaking Windows With TweakUI.
November 1998: The Christmas Star; A Turbo Timer For Cars; Build
A Poker Machine, Pt.1; FM Transmitter For Musicians; Lab Quality AC
Millivoltmeter, Pt.2; Improving AM Radio Reception, Pt.1.
June 2001: Fast Universal Battery Charger, Pt.1; Phonome – Call, Listen
In & Switch Devices On & Off; L’il Snooper – A Low-Cost Automatic
Camera Switcher; Using Linux To Share An Internet Connection, Pt.2;
A PC To Die For, Pt.1 (Building Your Own PC).
August 2003: PC Infrared Remote Receiver (Play DVDs & MP3s On
Your PC Via Remote Control); Digital Instrument Display For Cars,
Pt.1; Home-Brew Weatherproof 2.4GHz WiFi Antennas; PICAXE Pt.7
– Get That Clever Code Purring; A Digital Timer For Less Than $20.
December 1998: Engine Immobiliser Mk.2; Thermocouple Adaptor
For DMMs; Regulated 12V DC Plugpack; Build A Poker Machine, Pt.2;
Improving AM Radio Reception, Pt.2; Mixer Module For F3B Gliders.
January 1999: High-Voltage Megohm Tester; Getting Started With
BASIC Stamp; LED Bargraph Ammeter For Cars; Keypad Engine
Immobiliser; Improving AM Radio Reception, Pt.3.
March 1999: Getting Started With Linux; Pt.1; Build A Digital
Anemometer; Simple DIY PIC Programmer; Easy-To-Build Audio
Compressor; Low Distortion Audio Signal Generator, Pt.2.
April 1999: Getting Started With Linux; Pt.2; High-Power Electric
Fence Controller; Bass Cube Subwoofer; Programmable Thermostat/
Thermometer; Build An Infrared Sentry; Rev Limiter For Cars.
May 1999: The Line Dancer Robot; An X-Y Table With Stepper Motor
Control, Pt.1; Three Electric Fence Testers; Heart Of LEDs; Build A
Carbon Monoxide Alarm; Getting Started With Linux; Pt.3.
www.siliconchip.com.au
July 2001: The HeartMate Heart Rate Monitor; Do Not Disturb Telephone
Timer; Pic-Toc – A Simple Alarm Clock; Fast Universal Battery Charger,
Pt.2; A PC To Die For, Pt.2; Backing Up Your Email.
August 2001: DI Box For Musicians; 200W Mosfet Amplifier Module;
Headlight Reminder; 40MHz 6-Digit Frequency Counter Module; A PC
To Die For, Pt.3; Using Linux To Share An Internet Connection, Pt.3.
September 2001: Making MP3s – Rippers & Encoders; Build Your Own
MP3 Jukebox, Pt.1; PC-Controlled Mains Switch; Personal Noise Source
For Tinnitus Sufferers; The Sooper Snooper Directional Microphone;
Using Linux To Share An Internet Connection, Pt.4.
November 2001: Build The Ultra-LD 100W RMS/Channel Stereo
Amplifier, Pt.1; A Neon Tube Modulator For Cars; Low-Cost Audio/
Video Distribution Amplifier; Build A Short Message Recorder Player;
Useful Tips For Your PC.
December 2001: A Look At Windows XP; Build A PC Infrared Transceiver; Ultra-LD 100W RMS/Ch Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2; Pardy Lights
– An Intriguing Colour Display; PIC Fun – Learning About Micros.
January 2002: Touch And/Or Remote-Controlled Light Dimmer, Pt.1; A
Cheap ’n’Easy Motorbike Alarm; 100W RMS/Channel Stereo Amplifier,
Pt.3; Build A Raucous Alarm; FAQs On The MP3 Jukebox.
April 2002:Automatic Single-Channel Light Dimmer; Pt.1; Build A
Water Level Indicator; Multiple-Output Bench Power Supply; Versatile
Multi-Mode Timer; 6-Channel IR Remote Volume Control, Pt.2.
May 2002: 32-LED Knightrider; The Battery Guardian (Cuts Power When
the Battery Voltage Drops); Stereo Headphone Amplifier; Automatic
Single-Channel Light Dimmer; Pt.2; Stepper Motor Controller.
June 2002: Lock Out The Bad Guys with A Firewall; Remote Volume
Control For Stereo Amplifiers; The “Matchless” Metal Locator; Compact
0-80A Automotive Ammeter; Constant High-Current Source.
July 2002: Telephone Headset Adaptor; Rolling Code 4-Channel UHF
Remote Control; Remote Volume Control For The Ultra-LD Stereo
Amplifier; Direct Conversion Receiver For Radio Amateurs, Pt.1.
August 2002: Digital Instrumentation Software For Your PC; Digital
Storage Logic Probe; Digital Thermometer/Thermostat; Sound Card
Interface For PC Test Instruments; Direct Conversion Receiver For Radio
Amateurs, Pt.2; Spruce Up Your PC With XP-Style Icons.
September 2002: 12V Fluorescent Lamp Inverter; 8-Channel Infrared
Remote Control; 50-Watt DC Electronic Load; Driving Light & Accessory
Protector For Cars; Spyware – An Update.
October 2002: Speed Controller For Universal Motors; PC Parallel
Port Wizard; “Whistle & Point” Cable Tracer; Build An AVR ISP Serial
Programmer; Watch 3D TV In Your Own Home.
November 2002: SuperCharger For NiCd/NiMH Batteries, Pt.1; Windows-Based EPROM Programmer, Pt.1; 4-Digit Crystal-Controlled
Timing Module; Using Linux To Share An Optus Cable Modem, Pt.1.
December 2002: Receiving TV From Satellites; Pt.1; The Micromitter
Stereo FM Transmitter; Windows-Based EPROM Programmer, Pt.2;
SuperCharger For NiCd/NiMH Batteries; Pt.2; Simple VHF FM/AM Radio;
Using Linux To Share An Optus Cable Modem, Pt.2.
January 2003: Receiving TV From Satellites, Pt 2; SC480 50W RMS
Amplifier Module, Pt.1; Gear Indicator For Cars; Active 3-Way Crossover
For Speakers; Using Linux To Share An Optus Cable Modem, Pt.3.
April 2003: Video-Audio Booster For Home Theatre Systems; A
Highly-Flexible Keypad Alarm; Telephone Dialler For Burglar Alarms;
Three Do-It-Yourself PIC Programmer Kits; More Fun With The PICAXE,
Pt.3 (Heartbeat Simulator); Electric Shutter Release For Cameras.
May 2003: Widgybox Guitar Distortion Effects Unit; 10MHz Direct Digital Synthesis Generator; Big Blaster Subwoofer; Printer Port Simulator;
More Fun With The PICAXE, Pt.4 (Motor Controller).
June 2003: More Fun With The PICAXE, Pt.5; PICAXE-Controlled
Telephone Intercom; PICAXE-08 Port Expansion; Sunset Switch For
Security & Garden Lighting; Digital Reaction Timer; Adjustable DC-DC
Converter For Cars; Long-Range 4-Channel UHF Remote Control.
September 2003: Robot Wars – The Sport Of The New Millenium; Bright
& Cheap Krypton Bike Light; Portable PIC Programmer; Current Clamp
Meter Adapter For DMMs; PICAXE Pt.8 – A Data Logger & Sending It
To Sleep; Digital Instrument Display For Cars, Pt.2.
October 2003: PC Board Design Tutorial, Pt.1; The JV80 Loudspeaker
System; A Dirt Cheap, High-Current Power Supply; Low-Cost 50MHz
Frequency Meter; Long-Range 16-Channel Remote Control System.
November 2003: PC Board Design Tutorial, Pt.2; A 12AX7 Valve
Audio Preamplifier; Our Best Ever LED Torch; Smart Radio Modem
For Microcontrollers; PICAXE Pt.9 – The 18X Series; Programmable
PIC-Powered Timer.
PLEASE NOTE: Issues not listed have sold out. All other issues are
in stock. We can supply photostat copies from sold-out issues for
$8.80 per article (includes p&p). When supplying photostat articles
or back copies, we automatically supply any relevant notes & errata
at no extra charge. A complete index to all articles published to date
can be downloaded free from our web site: www.siliconchip.com.au
December 2003 89
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Write to: Ask Silicon Chip, PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097; or
send an email to silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
Valve substitute
for preamp
I am just wondering if a 12AU7A
would be OK for the preamp circuit
featured in the November issue. It’s
an old AWA Radiotron. Also, is it true
that valves contain mercury? (L. A.,
via email).
• Yes, you can use a 12AU7. It is a
lower gain device but since feedback
is applied around the circuit, it will
make little difference. As far as we
know, there is no mercury contained
in thermionic valves or used in their
manufacture. The shiny appearance
inside the tube is not mercury but
the metallisation deposited when
the getter ring (containing barium or
magnesium) is activated after the valve
has been evacuated.
CDI for vintage
motorbikes
Back in July 1975, “Electronics
Australia” came up with a modified
design of the August 1970 CDI. I made
up some of these and they are still
running. I have only had one failure
of a polycarbonate capacitor and even
this was no drama as I had a spare in
place. 28 years is not a bad effort and
still going.
I have a collection of vintage motor
motorcycles that used to have magnetos; ie, no distributor. I modified the
EA circuit to the extent that I had two
“steering diodes” just after the bridge
rectifier. Each steering diode went to
trigger circuits and hence to individual HT coils for each cylinder (twin
cylinder 50° V). This works just fine.
What I would like to know is could
the Programmable Ignition Module
that’s used to enable electronic advance (SILICON CHIP, March 1996) be
used to interface with the 1975 CDI? I
love CDI as it fires oily plugs, etc that
abound on old bikes, no matter how
good the engine condition is.
Failing that, I know that it does
work with your High Energy Ignition
(SILICON CHIP, June 1998). The problem
is that old bikes do not have the kind
of generation power of cars so that
Checking The Fuel Mixture Display
I recently built and installed a
Fuel Mixture Display kit from the
November 1995 issue of SILICON
CHIP. I went overboard on building
it correctly and I am now puzzled.
Either my car’s oxygen sensor has
had it or it doesn’t get into closed
loop mode. With the car warm and
the ignition on but the motor not
running, the farthest rich LED lights
up. It is the same when the engine is
running and does not change under
any conditions at all. Setting the
trimpot to either extreme doesn’t
change anything – it just sits on that
most rich LED.
The kit does not smell or anything
so and I am sure I built it correctly.
The car has a constant 800mV at idle
when warm. This reading could be
90 Silicon Chip
“stuck” and could be the case all the
time. My question is, should the kit
display that LED when the engine
is not running but with ignition
switched on? (A. P., via email).
• The way to test the unit would
be to connect a 10kΩ trimpot between +12V and ground with the
wiper connection to the input of
the display unit. Adjust the trimpot
to produce an output between 0V
and 1V, as measured at the wiper.
This should cause the LED display
to range from fully lean to fully
rich, depending on the setting of
the trimpot.
If there is no response and the
circuit doesn’t work, the problem is
in the circuit. If the circuit works,
then the sensor may be faulty.
current draw has to be considered. The
High Energy Ignition kit has provision
for two sets of points. Could I use that
feature to fire a 2-cylinder motor cycle
with no high tension distributor cap?
In other words, use a HT coil with two
HT leads, having a waste spark on the
exhaust of the cylinder that is not on
compression (like a Harley)? I would
dearly love to get rid of the mechanical
advance unit that wears considerably.
(D. A., via email).
• Stick with your simple approach.
Do not even consider the HEI as it
needs heaps of current and won’t
necessarily do a better job of firing
oily plugs. Don’t bother with the PIT
module either – it’s too much trouble.
You will need to build an interface to
allow it to drive the old CDI and you
need to derive 5V for it too.
Exhaust gas tester
for Citroen
I have assembled the Exhaust Gas
Oxygen tester kit and fitted it to a 1999
Citroen Xsara. The sensor wire from
the tester is connected to wire 131 at
pin 4 of the oxygen sensor (see Sagen
SL 96, Citroen diagram).
The voltage on this wire bounces
from .01V to 0.9V and the red and
yellow LEDs seem to correspond to
the voltage swings. However, the green
LED is on all the time, even when the
engine is switched off for hours. When
the sensor wire is not connected, the
red LED is on which the instructions
indicated would be normal. This is the
only time the green LED is off.
During assembly, the only query I
had is regarding the locations of the
capacitors, as the drilled holes in the
circuit board would suggest they be
fitted opposite to the component diagram. That is, the distance between
the legs would fit the circuit without
bending the legs if they were fitted
opposite to the drawings. (C. S., via
email).
• We assume you’re referring to the
Low Cost EGO Tester published in the
www.siliconchip.com.au
February 1994 edition of “Electronics
Australia”. If the unit is operating
properly, the green LED should only
be on when the input voltage from the
sensor is between 0V and 0.2V. This
does mean that it will be on when the
engine is not running. However, it also
means that it should be off when either
the yellow or red LEDs are on.
Check the threshold voltages on pins
10 & 2 of IC1. These should read about
0.2V and 0.6V, respectively. Note that
you should connect the power (+13V
to 15V) wire from the board to the
ignition switch circuit, such that it is
not powered when the engine is off.
The capacitors (C1, C2) must be
mounted as shown in the component
overlay diagram.
UHF to VHF
converter
I need to build or buy a UHF (specifically channel 31) downconverter
to VHF (specifically channel 6 or 8).
Please can you tell me if you or your
sister magazines have ever published
a project which I could construct
directly or modify? The signal levels
involved are normal TV reception
ones. (W. B., via email).
• We have not described a UHF to
VHF TV converter and we don’t think
there would be much interest in such
a project. Perhaps the easiest approach
would be to use an old VCR with a VHF
modulator output. They can be easily
picked up on council clean-ups.
The VCR’s output would normally
be on channel 0 or 1 but it should be
reasonably easy to modify the VCR’s
modulator to run on channel 6 or
whatever by changing the inductance
in its tank circuit. Alternatively, can
you use the video output of the VCR
and feed that into your friend’s set?
Running the
LED torch from 4.5V
The LED torch in the November
issue looks like a very exciting project to build. Is it possible to run the
Luxeon LED from three D cells (4.5V),
thus eliminating the step-up DC-DC
converter? (C. N., via email).
• Well, yes, but . . . the Luxeon could
be driven from a 4.5V source but a 3.3Ω
1W current limiting resistor would be
required. This would work fine when
the batteries were fresh but once they
got down to about 3.5V (1.17V/cell)
www.siliconchip.com.au
RLC network in
amplifier modules
For some years, I have been
using three of the 100W amplifier
modules published in the December
1987 issue of SILICON CHIP. These
have performed well and without
fault.
I read with interest your new
design of January 2003 and thought
about updating the modules. In
the event, I decided this was not
worthwhile as the new circuit is
similar to the previous design and
although the PC boards and earthing modifications are no doubt an
improvement, I thought the benefits
would be marginal.
However, I did decide to check
the performance of the modules
and discovered that the output is
significantly affected by the capacitor of the RLC network. The
recommended 150nF component
results in significant overshoot on
a 10kHz square wave (into 8-ohm
loads – all three modules give the
same response).
Reducing the capacitor to 100nF
gives an improvement but 47nF
gives the best result and appears
to maintain stability. No capacitor
results in oscillation at high signal
the brightness would be woeful, so
the overall battery life and utilisation
would be very poor compared to our
design using a DC-DC converter.
Silicon bilateral
switch unavailable
In your September 1992 edition,
you published an article on building
a universal motor speed controller. I’m
keen to build this, for use as a speed
control on a 1950s Kenwood Chef food
mixer, to replace the old contactor
bar. But I am having a lot of trouble
sourcing a 2N4992 silicon bilateral
switch (200mA 300mW) as specified
in the circuit.
Can I use two back-to-back 7.5V
zener diodes to control the Triac gate?
(N. R., via email).
• Have a look at the updated speed
control in the October 2002 issue. It
solves the 2N4992 problem by using a
C103B as the trigger device. You can’t
levels. I would much appreciate
your comments on these observations and also why you did not use
the normal Zobel arrangement of
a resistor and capacitor before the
output inductor. 100nF in series
with 10Ω here also gives a good
square wave and stability. (D. A.,
Aspley, Qld).
• The RLC network we have used
in all our amplifier designs is based
on a design by Neville Thiele (of
Thiele/Small fame) published in
the “Proceedings of the IREE”,
September 1975.
It has the advantage of combining
the Zobel network with a commonly
used RL network used to isolate the
amplifier from large capacitances
which can cause instability and
latch up. It also helps attenuate RF
signals picked up by the speaker
leads which can otherwise be coupled back via the feedback network
into the input stages.
However, the values are a compromise, depending on whether
you are driving 4-ohm or 8-ohm
loudspeakers. We tend to go for
the larger value – ie, 150nF – to
ensure stability and overall good
behaviour on the impedance dips
which are inevitable with all real
loudspeakers.
use back-to-back zeners because the
trigger device needs a negative resistance to ensure a healthy trigger pulse.
A new PC board is required, however.
We can supply the October 2002 issue
for $8.80 including postage.
Help with a
DPM connection
A friend purchased a Jaycar LED
Panel Meter (QP5580) and it works
fine if you have the meter supplied
from a battery and the voltage to be
measured is completely separate.
But how on earth can he connect the
supply through a drop-down regulator
and measure the raw supply voltage
with the same meter?
He needs to make it a simple voltmeter that can plug straight onto a battery
under test and read off the voltage
without having to resort to the extra
batteries for the DPM supply. The meter is a “common ground” and supply
December 2003 91
Suitability of SC-480
for guitar use
I have a couple of questions
regarding the 50 watt SC-480 amplifier from the January & February
2003 issues. I am planning to use
it as a guitar amplifier. Would it be
suitable? If so, what (if anything)
would need to be added to it for it
to work, such as a preamp?
What would I use as a volume
control and where? Would this circuit benefit by regulating the power
supply? (A. H., via email).
• The SC480 is fine for guitar
is 5V. He has also purchased the add-on
board to set the decimal point and the
voltage scale (20V in this case).
The main problem is that in the
heat of a corrugated iron pump cover
out the “back-o-Bourke”, alkaline or
NiCad/NiMH batteries suffer and die
very quickly. (S. B., via email).
• You need a level shifter circuit to accommodate the fact that the LCD meter
needs to be connected to a raised (or
isolated) earth. Have a look at the 40V
power supply in the January & February
1994 issues of SILICON CHIP.
Essentially, the relevant part of the
circuit (in the January issue) is IC4
which shifts the voltage by an offset.
The op amp attenuates the voltage to
suit the 2V scale. Note that point X
shown for IC4’s 100kΩ feedback resistor can be ground as it is only across
the current sensing resistor R1.
More current from the
DC-DC converter
Thank you for featuring the DC-DC
Converter in your June 2003 issue. I
am an instrument technician and do
service work on job sites. My work
work. Have a look at the following
guitar preamps: 4-Channel Guitar
Mixer in January 1992; 2-Channel
Guitar Mixer (includes electronic
reverb) in November/December
2000 & January 2001. Or if you just
want a very simple preamp with
3-band tone controls, you could
adapt the Guitar “Widgy” box from
the May 2003 issue. We can supply
these magazines for $8.80 each,
including postage.
The preamps listed all have their
own volume controls. There would
be no benefit from regulating the
amplifier’s power supply.
requires a laptop computer and I am
using an old Toshiba Satellite which
requires 15V DC at 3A. Is there a way
to upgrade the converter to 3A or 4A?
(B. R., via email).
• The circuit can deliver up to 4A if
the 0.1Ω sensing resistor is paralleled
with another 0.1Ω resistor and the fuse
rating is increased to 5A. Also, each
of the low ESR capacitors will need
to be paralleled to increase the ripple
rating. Finally, the diodes and Mosfet
will need larger heatsinks.
Query on the
battery desulphator
I’m interested in building the battery
desulphator described in the Circuit
Notebook pages of the February 2003
issue but I cannot understand why
the Mosfet source connection goes to
+12V and the drain goes to ground. It’s
usually source to earth! Also why use
a P type when there are more N types
available? (D. H., Shepparton, Vic).
• Q1 is a P-channel Mosfet, signified by the arrow from the gate to
the source. Therefore, source does
go to +12V. Perhaps we should have
mentioned that in the short circuit
description. You could turn the whole
circuit upside down to use an N-channel Mosfet but then you would have to
swap R1 and R2 to give correct pulse
duty cycle from IC1.
High-quality
AM tuner wanted
How about designing a quality AM
tuner capable of full bandwidth, with
an audio line level output to feed to an
existing hifi system? It seems that the
majority of AM tuners available are of
poor quality and have limited bandwidth etc. (W. N., Casino, NSW).
• We have published two high quality
stereo AM tuners in the past: the Portable AM Stereo Tuner in September,
October & November 1989, and the
Wideband AM Tuner in February,
March & April 1991. We can supply
the 1989 articles in photostat form and
the 1991 magazines for $8.80 each,
including postage.
Protection for
DC plugpacks
Is there a way to prevent ignorant,
clumsy souls like me from destroying
my 12V DC plugpacks? Will a zener
diode do it? R. L., via email).
• You need a fuse. Try connecting a
1Ω 0.25W resistor in series with the
plugpack’s output. Hopefully it will
blow before any serious damage is
SC
done.
Notes & Errata
Gear Indicator, January 2003: the pin
2 & 3 connections for the Hall effect
sensor (UGN3503) are shown transposed on the circuit diagram (Fig.7).
Pin 2 should be GND and pin 3 the
signal output. The overlay diagram
is correct.
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be
carried out according to the instructions in the articles. When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do
not accidentally come into contact with mains AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects
employing mains voltages or other high voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd
disclaims any liability for damages should anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of
SILICON CHIP magazine. Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any
liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims
any liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the Trade
Practices Act 1974 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are applicable.
92 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
**NEW KIT**
30 LED LAMP
KIT (K202)
12V Driver and a 3 LED
Lamp kit on 1 PCB, lamps
can be separated, The
use of a charge pump
inverter & constant
current sources makes
for very efficient
operation, has a light
detector that can be
configured for Auto
On, Auto Off, or
both. Complete
PCB with parts
for 1 Lamp: $18,
parts for extra
lamps: $9Ea.,
swivel bracket/
screw kit: $1.
LENSES.
This 35mm diameter plastic
lens was designed to collimate
LED's, use it to converge a beam
into a narrower spot and thus
increase the CD rating and improve
the beam quality: 60c Ea. or 10 for $4.
HOT NEW PELTIER PRICES
LED PRICE MADNESS
DECEMBER SPECIALS
(ELN5W) Ultra-Bright White 5mm.
(GP1) 4.0A $12.50
Water Clear Lens (If = 20mA MAX, Vf =
(GP2) 6.0A $15.50 3.6V): $0.80
(FLSH1) Ultra-Bright Flashing / Fading
(GP3) 8.0A $18.50
Red Green Blue 5mm. Water Clear Lens (If
For more info check our Website. = 20mA MAX, 4~6V) $1.60
(FLSH2) Ultra-Bright Flashing Red & Blue
OUR CHRISTMAS
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Ask for your free caller
Green 5mm. Water Clear Lens (If = 20mA
ID with every order we
MAX, Vf = 4~6V) $1.50
receive during December.
(ELN5P)1500mCd / 5mm Pink,
Limit of one per customer.
Type may vary from the
Water Clear Lens LED: (If = 20mA MAX,
one pictured here.
Vf = 2.8V ): $1.40
PCSET COMPUTER HARDWARE SET:
The following are Super Bright LEDs
Almost a complete computer for just $39 20mA max & narrow angle 5mm
The only things required to make it run is some memory, a
hard drive & maybe an old case. No drivers supplied. This (ELN5G) Green 5mm,
Water Clear Lens (If = 20mA MAX, Vf =
package contains the following
2.8V ): $1.00
(ELN5B) Blue 5mm ,
(EX-government, hardly used)
Water Clear Lens (If = 20mA MAX, Vf =
3.6V) : $1.00
(ELN5UV) UV 5mm,
Water Clear Lens (If = 20mA MAX, Vf =
3.2V): $0.90
Dual Redundant Power Supply: PS/2 type, AT output, (ELN5R) Red 5mm,
230~270W. Sound Blaster Vibra 16X CT4170 ISA Sound Water Clear Lens (If = 20mA MAX, Vf =
Card: Creative Technology LTD. Include Standard PC 2V): $0.50
joystick port. Dual-system PICMG Backplane: 11 PCI, 6
ISA, ATX power connector support, keyboard connector. 1W WHITE LED
PC Card: This card is a computer on a legacy card. With a 3.6V<at>300mA / 20 LUX
genuine 366Mhz Intel Celeron CPU, 3 RAM slots, IDE WIDE ANGLE... $14
ports, 1X floppy port, 1X printer port, serial ports, 1X PS2
keyboard port and 1X PS2 mouse port. Note: Item may will collimate with our lens,
vary from description. 8M Matrox PCI Video Card: Type: (see this ad).
40 X 40 mm
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AS
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CLOCK MOVEMENTS
Crystal controlled clock mechanisms
with large hands, Requires 1X AA
(not supplied.)
Make your clock from a picture,
piece of driftwood or your
favourite family photo etc.
$6 Ea. or 4 for $20.
Hour hand: 68.5mm
Minute hand: 92.5mm
Second hand: 91mm
(NEW) 2.4GHz STEREO AUDIO
VIDEO
TRANSMITTER / RECEIVER KIT: (10mW Maximum
legal power). High quality. complete but require some
soldering to connect the dc input & the antenna. A simple
1/4 wave antenna can be made from a 31.25mm wire but
it will give limited range as the transmitter has an output of
less than 10mW. A much better option is our 1/4 wave
Bow-tie antenna kit (SEE BELOW). A short length co-ax
is supplied as part of the video TX / RX kit to connect to
the antenna. Simply make the connections to the power,
antenna & connect the audio &
video from a camera, TV or video via the RCA connectors
supplied on each of the circuit boards. Other features inc.
On/Off switches & 4 switchable channels with indicator
LEDs (up to 4 of these units can be used in the same erea
without problems). Transmitter: 80 X 87 X 22mm.
Receiver: 110 X 90 X 18 mm. (K199) $59 Inc. TX & RX
Transmitter: 9V DC plugpack. $5. Receiver: 12V DC
plugpack. $5
NE
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G+/MSDP/8BF/20. Network card, CD ROM Drive, 3 1/2" (ABT01)ALCOHOL
Floppy drive, and cables.
BREATH TESTER
Now you can carry your
(COOL1) MINI-FRIDGE/ COOLER / WARMER:
own personal alcohol
This great minibreath tester in your
cooler is perfect for a few
pocket. Gives readings
cans of drinks (it will hold up
of >0.02% and >0.05%.
to 6 std. 375ml cans),
Features: Small & lightOperates at 12V DC
weight (40g), Key chain
(cigarette lighter plug). Inc.
& Torch function, LED
removable shelf, cigarette
indicators. Req. 2 x AAA
lighter plug & manual.
battery, not supplied. NOTE: The indication of this
Cap. 4L. Internal Size:
alcohol test gives BAC for reference only. We do not take
210 (H) x 140 (W) x 130
any legal responsibility. $27
(D) mm. External Size: 280
(H) x 190 (W) x 260 (D) mm.
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NOW IN STOCK
***NEW INVERTER KIT***
This kit can be configured for 24VDC to 12VDC or 12VDC
to 24VDC or even some voltages in between. It was
tested with a 100W load but greater heatsinking will be
required above 50W. Voltage selection is done by
changing the value of a resistor and by changing the
number of turns on the transformer. The transformer is
easy to construct & requires only an average of about 20
(NEW) 2.4GHz TRANSMITTER / RECEIVER turns on the primary and secondary windings. Ideal for
ANTENNA KIT: (K199)
car stereo & GPS systems etc in trucks with 24VDC
This bow-tie antenna kit is suitable for use
systems or to charge laptops in cars. Kit includes PCB,
with our 10mW 2.4GHz Audio Video Transall onboard components
mitter / Receiver. The antenna was tested
& parts to make the
with our 2.4GHZ TX / RX kit and gave
simple transformer.
good quality reception at just over
Available now.
100M in a industrial estate just
over 100M wide. This was as
far as we could easily test the
units over. We are confident that it
has much better range. KIT: $7. Case
inc. The case has a molding on the rear that makes it
easy to attach to a pole or mast.
0
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2
2
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(SP5) SOLAR PANELS and
SOLAR LIGHTING SYSTEM:
BARGAIN PRICED!!!
This high quality, high
efficiency polycrystalline
panel has an aluminum
frame and glass front.
It measures 190 X 350
X 25mm. $75.
Buy any combination
solar panel/s, LED
lamp kit/s and SLA
battery/s and save
10%.
Don't forget to checkout our Website
and subscribe to our bargain corner
to be notified of the latest bargains.
www.oatleyelectronics.com Suppliers of kits and surplus electronics to hobbyists, experimenters, industry & professionals.
Orders: Ph ( 02 ) 9584 3563, Fax 9584 3561, sales<at>oatleyelectronics.com, PO Box 89 Oatley NSW 2223
OR www.oatleye.com
major credit cards accepted, Post & Pack typically $7 Prices subject to change without notice ACN 068 740 081 ABN18068 740 081
SC_DEC_03
MARKET CENTRE
Cash in your surplus gear. Advertise it here in Silicon Chip.
CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING RATES
Advertising rates for this page: Classified ads: $20.00 (incl. GST) for up to 20
words plus 66 cents for each additional word. Display ads: $33.00 (incl. GST) per
column centimetre (max. 10cm). Closing date: five weeks prior to month of sale.
To run your classified ad, print it clearly in the space below or on a separate
sheet of paper, fill out the form & send it with your cheque or credit card details
to: Silicon Chip Classifieds, PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097. Alternatively, fax
the details to (02) 9979 6503 or send an email to silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
Taxation Invoice ABN 49 003 205 490
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_____________ _____________ _____________ _____________ _____________
_____________ _____________ _____________ _____________ _____________
Enclosed is my cheque/money order for $__________ or please debit my
Bankcard Visa Card Master Card
Card No.
Signature__________________________ Card expiry date______/______
Name _____________________________________________________
Street _____________________________________________________
Suburb/town ___________________________ Postcode______________
Phone:_____________ Fax:_____________ Email:__________________
94 Silicon Chip
FOR SALE
UNIVERSAL DEVICE PROGRAMMER: Low cost, high performance,
48-pin, works in DOS or Windows incl.
NT/2000. $1364. Universal EPROM
programmer $467.50. Also adaptors,
(E)EPROM, PIC, 8051 programmers,
EPROM simulator and eraser.
Dunfield C Compilers: Everything you
need to develop C and ASM software
for 68HC08, 6809, 68HC11, 68HC12,
68HC16, 8051/52, 8080/85, 8086,
8096 or AVR: $198 each. Demo disk
available.
ImageCraft C Compilers: 32-bit
Windows IDE and compiler. For AVR,
68HC08, 68HC11, 68HC12, 68HC16.
$385.00
Atmel Flash CPU Programmer: Handles the 89Cx051, 89C5x, 89Sxx in
both DIP and PLCC44 and some AVR’s,
most 8-pin EEPROMS. Includes socket
for serial ISP cable. $220, $11 p&p.
SOIC adaptors: 20 pin $132.00, 14 pin
$126.50, 8 pin $121.00.
Full details on web site. Credit cards
accepted.
GRANTRONICS PTY LTD, PO Box 275,
Wentworthville 2145. (02) 9896 7150 or
http://www.grantronics.com.au
RGB LEDs: New stock of 5mm RGB
LEDs at just $1.50 each! RGB an
imating LEDs just $3 each. Picaxe
LED driver kits from just $12.
www.ledsales.com.au
USB KITS: Stepper Motor Controller,
USB PIO Intefface, DTMF Transceiver,
Thermometer, DDS HF Generator,
Compass, 4-Channel Voltmeter, I/O
Relay Card. Also available: Digital
Oscilloscope, Temperature Loggers,
VHF Receivers and USB Active X (and
USBDOS.exe file) to control our kits from
your application.
www.ar.com.au/~softmark
PCBs MADE, ONE OR MANY. Any
format, hobbyists welcome. Sesame
Electronics (02) 9593 1025.
sesame777<at>optusnet.com.au
http://sesame_elec.tripod.com
www.siliconchip.com.au
New New New
Foam surrounds,voice coils,cones and more
Original parts for Dynaudio,Tannoy and others
Expert speaker repairs – 20 years experience
Australian agents for
products
Trade welcome – email for your user ID
Phone (03) 9682 2487
Mark22-SM
Slimline Mini FM R/C Receiver
Cygnus Logic Systems
Industrial High Speed Automation
Electronic System Design Custom
Software Design Consultancy
Troubleshooting Project Management
Tel: (02) 9904 3991
Fax: (02) 9904 3993
Mob: 0402 985 574
speakerbits.com.au
cygnuslogic<at>iprimus.com.au
JACKSON
BROS
JACKSON OF THE UK IS BACK
Highest quality products made by
UK Craftsmen
Variable and trimmer capacitors, reduction
drives, dials, ceramic stand-offs
Full range now available off the shelf in Australia
CATALOGUES AND PRICE LISTS NOW AVAILABLE
CHARLES I COOKSON PTY LTD
GPO BOX 812, ADELAIDE, SA 5001
Tel: (08) 8235 0744 Fax: (08) 8356 3652
FreeFax: 1800 673355 (Within Australia)
Email: jackson<at>homeplanet.com.au
ALL MAJOR CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
SOLE AGENTS FOR AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND
•
•
•
•
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6 Channels
10kHz frequency separation
Size: 55 x 23 x 20mm
Weight: 25gm
Modular Construction
Price: $A129.50 with crystal
Electronics
PO Box 580, Riverwood, NSW 2210.
Ph/Fax (02) 9533 3517
email: youngbob<at>silvertone.com.au
Website:www.silvertone.com.au
Building speaker boxes? Mounting
electrical components onto solid
timber? You may need the Carba–tecTOOLS FOR WOOD catalogue!!
We have Australia’s largest range
of woodworking handtools & machinery. Please contact us for your
FREE 220 page colour catalogue or
come in & see us at:
32 PERCY ST, AUBURN 2144 9649 5077 www.carbatec.com.au
& MADE TO ORDER PCBs
For more details: www.acetronics.com.au
Phone (02) 9600 6832
email: acetronics<at>acetronics.com.au
WEATHER STATIONS: Windspeed &
direction, inside temperature, outside
temperature & windchill. Records highs
& lows with time and date as they occur.
Optional rainfall and PC interface. Used
by Government Departments, farmers,
pilots, and weather enthusiasts. Other
models with barometric pressure, humidity, dew point, solar radiation, UV,
leaf wetness, etc. Just phone, fax or
write for our FREE catalogue and price
list. Eco Watch phone: (03) 9761 7040;
fax: (03) 9761 7050; Unit 5, 17 Southfork
Drive, Kilsyth, Vic. 3137. ABN 63 006
399 480.
S-Video . . . Video . . . Audio . . . VGA
distribution amps, splitters, standards
converters, tbc’s, switchers, cables, etc,
& price list: www.questronix.com.au
www.siliconchip.com.au
SMD COMPONENTS, SMD LED kits
& specials. Go to www.lazer.com.au
Pixel Programmable Controller with
4 analog inputs, 8 digital inputs and 8
relay outputs. Uses a Picaxe 28A. Programmed in basic.
Labjack USB Data Acquisition Module features 8 12bit analog inputs, 20
digital I/O, 2 analog outputs and high
speed counter. Free software, Labview
driver and ActiveX component.
DAS005 Parallel Port Data Acquisition
Module features 8 12bit Analog inputs,
4 Digital I/Ps & 4 Digital O/Ps. Free windows software and source code.
Dual Relay Modules suitable for TTL
and Open Collector Outputs
Leader Modbus Data Acquisition
Modules analog inputs, RTD, thermo-
Need prototype PC boards?
We have the solutions – we print electronics!
Four-day turnaround, less if urgent; Artwork from your own
positive or file; Through hole plating; Prompt postal service; 29
years technical experience; Inexpensive; Superb quality.
Printed Electronics, 12A Aristoc Rd,
Glen Waverley, Vic 3150.
Phone: 1300 132 251;
Fax: (03) 9561 5529
Call Mike Lynch and check us out!
We are the best for low cost, small runs.
TAIG MACHINERY
Micro Mini Lathes and Mills
From $489.00
59 Gilmore Crescent
Garran ACT 2605
(02) 6281 5660
0412269707
couple, analog outputs, digital input and
output modules
Programmers for Atmel and PIC micro
controllers.
Switch Mode and Linear Power Supplies
and DC-DC convertors.
FAB Programmable Logic Controllers. Low cost, high performance.
Programming software and SCADA
software free. Heaps of features.
Full details and credit card ordering available at www.oceancontrols.com.au
BUY FROM HONG KONG, PAY IN OZ.
Get many common passives, ICs and
LCDs direct from Hong Kong but pay in
Oz. www.kitsrus.com/bits.html
RCS RADIO/DESIGN is at 41 Arlewis
St, Chester Hill 2162, NSW Australia
and has all the published circuit boards
from SC, EA, ETI, HE, AEM plus others.
Tel (02) 9738 0330.
sales<at>rcsradio.com.au
www.rcsradio.com.au
December 2003 95
Do You Eat, Breathe and Sleep Technology?
Management & Sales Positions
Advertising Index
Acetronics....................................95
We are a rapidly growing, Australian-owned international retailer with more than 30 stores in
Australia and we have a growing expansion program to open many more, so we need dedicated individuals to join our team to help achieve our goals.
If you are customer focused, have an eye for detail, empathy for the products we sell and have
recently completed a TAFE of University degree in electronics, we want to meet you.
Career opportunities with full training are available now if you have the drive and ambition to
make your future with Jaycar.
We offer a competitive salary, sales commission and many other benefits. To apply for these
positions please send your C.V. indicating the role you are interested in to the address shown
below.
Altronics................... loose insert,17
Jaycar Electronics is
an equal opportunity
employer and actively
promotes staff from
within the organisation.
Dick Smith Electronics........... 30-33
Retail Operations Manager
Jaycar Electronics Pty. Ltd.
P.O. Box 6424
Silverwater NSW 1811
Fax: (02) 9741-8524
Email: jobs<at>jaycar.com.au
ATA ..............................................81
Av-Comm Pty Ltd.........................43
BitScope Designs......................7,55
Carba-Tec Tools...........................95
Cygnus Logic Systems.................95
David Hall Electronics..................63
Eco Watch....................................95
Elan Audio......................................5
Forty Trout Electronics.................96
Development / Training Board
For the PIC Micro
LEDs: High Power and
Intensely Bright
Red and yellow colours available, in
•leaded
clear plastic cylinder format, 10mm
96 Silicon Chip
Grantronics...................................94
Harbuch Electronics.....................53
Instant PCBs................................96
Forty Trout Electronics Pty Ltd
15 Rockliffe St, Eltham 3095
Phone: (03) 9444 1803
Oatley Electronics........................93
High volume enquiries welcome!
Jackson Bros................................95
Hy-Q International........................55
Jaycar .......................... 45-52,55,96
JED Microprocessors................5,55
Kalex............................................81
MicroByte Electronics...................96
Microgram Computers....................3
MicroZed Computers....................79
Ozitronics.....................................67
Printed Electronics.......................95
Quest Electronics....................55,95
RCS Radio...................................95
For more information . . .
Visit: www.microbyte.com.au
Phone: (03) 9378 4288
Email: info<at>microbyte.com.au
AUDIO DREAMS ARE MADE OF
THIS: SEMI’S, Low Beta droop Toshiba 2SA1302, 2SC3281; ALL 2N’s, all
MPS’s inc 8055,8955; MJE’s & MJ’s
from ‘ON’ for Motorola, VERY fast
TO-126 Drivers available to ±85V rail.
MOSFETS from SEMELAB and I.R.F.,
JFETS from N.S.C. & Burr & Brown
(now under T.I.);TRANSFORMERS for
Valve and Solid State from Australia &
Canada; 10VA to > can’t lift it! TUBES,
all types available. GUITAR & AMP parts
and Speakers. All AUDIO components
inc H.V. poly’s and very large Electro’s.
Phone calls between 7pm and 9pm
Australian E.S.T. OK.
Email: lede<at>bigpond.net.au
Ph: (08) 8927 0238 Fax: (08) 8927 7557
Gadget Central...........................IFC
diameter
Narrow beam angle gives 17Cd at 20mA,
more at higher currents.
Time to start on this year’s Xmas decorations!
Ideal for moving message signs and traffic
applications
Only $36 (incl. GST) per bag of 100, supplied
in original SHARP packaging, plus $9 post
delivery.
Datasheet on request to:
fortytroutelectronics<at>optusnet.com.au or
•
•
•
The Most Flexible Development board around. Based on the
PIC16F877. The development board can be used with a wide
variety of PIC Micros including the PIC18F452. Adaptors
avaliable to use the 8, 18, 28-pin PIC Micros. ICD 2 connector
allows In-circuit programming / Debugging with Microchip’s
ICD2. Uncommited I/O ports allow for your own connection
configuration to each device and also to external circuits.
Onboard parallel port programmer allows programming of the PIC while still connected to the circuits. Other
optional extras available.Connection to each circuit module or
extrenal circuit is made via 10-way IDC cables provided.
The possibilities are endless.
Student/School discounts available.
Futurlec........................................79
RF Probes....................................81
Silicon Chip Back Issues........ 88-89
Silicon Chip Bookshop........... 86-87
SC Car Projects Book...........44,IBC
Silicon Chip Subscriptions...........29
or write to LEDE ELECTRONICS, PO
BOX 40313, CASUARINA, NT 0811,
AUSTRALIA.
Silvertone Electronics..................95
KITS KITS AND MORE KITS! Check
’em out at www.ozitronics.com
Splat Controls...............................65
KIT ASSEMBLY
NEVILLE WALKER KIT ASSEMBLY
& REPAIR:
• Australia wide service
• Small production runs
• Specialist “one-off” applications
Phone Neville Walker (07) 3857 2752
Email: flashdog<at>optusnet.com.au
Soundlabs Group.........................55
Speakerbits..................................95
Taig Machinery.............................95
Telelink Communications....55,OBC
____________________________
PC Boards
Printed circuit boards for SILICON
CHIP projects are made by:
RCS Radio Pty Ltd. Phone (02) 9738
0330. Fax (02) 9738 0334.
www.siliconchip.com.au
www.siliconchip.com.au
December 2003 97
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