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SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
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Contents
Vol.16, No.7; July 2003
www.siliconchip.com.au
FEATURES
7 RFID Tags – How They Work
RF ID tags are set to replace barcode labelling systems and could even be
used to identify people. Here’s how they work – by Peter Smith
12 Solar Power For Caravans & Motor-Homes
Want to go solar when you go bush? Here’s how to avoid the traps – by
Collyn Rivers
PROJECTS TO BUILD
22 Smart Card Reader & Programmer
It hooks up to the serial port of your PC and lets you program both the
microcontroller & EEPROM in “Gold” wafer smart cards – by Peter Smith
32 PowerUp: Turns Peripherals On Automatically
Smart Card Reader & Programmer
– Page 22.
Tired of flicking multiple power switches to turn on your PC or stereo system?
Build this circuit and you’ll only have to flick one switch – by John Clarke
60 A “Smart” Slave Flash Trigger
Does your camera’s flash operate in red-eye reduction (multiple flash) mode
only? This clever unit counts the number of “pre-flashes” before triggering a
slave flash unit – by Jim Rowe
68 A Programmable Continuity Tester
Easy-to-build unit lets you set the continuity “pass” threshold to anywhere
between 1Ω and 100Ω. It makes an ideal go/no-go tester – by Trent Jackson
74 The PICAXE Pt.6: Data Communications
PICAXEs can actually talk to each other via a piece of wet string (but you
might want to use wire) – by Stan Swan
79 Updating The PIC Programmer & Checkerboard
Here’s how to use it with Windows 2000/XP and PCs running faster than
1GHz – by Peter Smith
Power-Up: Turns Peripherals On
Automatically – Page 32.
“Smart” Slave
Flash Trigger
– Page 60.
SPECIAL COLUMNS
40 Serviceman’s Log
Faults in unfamiliar models – by the TV Serviceman
56 Circuit Notebook
(1) Infrared Remote Receiver Has Four Outputs; (2) Wide-Range Inductance
Meter; (3) Simple Circuit Charges Up To 12 Nicads; (4) Simple Knock Alarm
With Piezo Sensor; (5) Gym Agility Strategy Game; (6) Adding A 100V Line
Transformer To The SC480 Amplifier Module
82 Vintage Radio
The “Jelly Mould” STC 205 Mantel/Table Receiver – by Rodney Champness
DEPARTMENTS
2
4
53
67
Publisher’s Letter
Mailbag
Product Showcase
Silicon Chip Weblink
www.siliconchip.com.au
90
92
93
95
Ask Silicon Chip
Notes & Errata
Market Centre
Advertising Index
Programmable Continuity Tester
– Page 68.
July 2003 1
PUBLISHER’S LETTER
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Production Manager
Greg Swain, B.Sc.(Hons.)
Technical Staff
John Clarke, B.E.(Elec.)
Peter Smith
Ross Tester
Jim Rowe, B.A., B.Sc, VK2ZLO
Rick Walters
Reader Services
Ann Jenkinson
Advertising Enquiries
Leo Simpson
Phone (02) 9979 5644
Fax (02) 9979 6503
Regular Contributors
Brendan Akhurst
Rodney Champness, VK3UG
Julian Edgar, Dip.T.(Sec.), B.Ed
Mike Sheriff, B.Sc, VK2YFK
Philip Watson, MIREE, VK2ZPW
Stan Swan
SILICON CHIP is published 12 times
a year by Silicon Chip Publications
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©. No part of this publication may
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ISSN 1030-2662
Digital TV is a
complete failure
Hands up all those readers presently watching
digital TV broadcasts. Not very many of you, are
there? That’s probably why there weren’t any
protests when the ABC announced the end of its
childrens’ and youth digital channels (Fly TV and
ABC Kids). Nobody was watching them anyway.
Who cares?
The fact is that if the Government’s timetable is
adhered to, all the analog TV stations will cease
broadcasting in five years’ time, in 2008. Bit of a
problem that. In fact, I don’t know of anyone who has actually spent the
$600 or so required to buy a digital TV decoder box. So my entire circle of
friends and acquaintances won’t be watching much free-to-air TV in a few
years’ time.
Apparently, little more than 1% of Australian households have digital
TV. Quite a few people might take up Pay TV but a large proportion of the
Australian population does not have that option. So will all the rest lose
their access to TV broadcasts in 2008? I don’t think so.
In reality, there has been little reason at all for any one to purchase a digital
decoder because there is no new programming (apart from the abovementioned killed-off ABC services). The Seven, Nine and Ten networks have been
concentrating on digitising their networks and currently offer a low-quality
digital signal in tandem with their analog channels. Soon they are required
to offer HDTV signals and having seen test broadcasts on large screen sets,
I can report that they look very, very impressive. But large HDTV sets will
be very, very expensive as well.
Actually, we came up with the only other reason to buy a digital TV decoder back in April 2001, when we reviewed the Thomson DTI352TH set
top box. If you have analog reception plagued by ghosts, noise and interference, a set top box can make a major improvement. But the much-vaunted
multi-viewing broadcasts with different camera angles on sports programs
have yet to eventuate. It’s all been a big fizzer. And prices have dropped
only marginally, if at all.
So where to now? Senator Richard Alston, our esteemed Communications
Minister, is presently thrashing around, lambasting the ABC for dropping
out of the race, but there is not lot else he can do. He can see that he and the
Government are going to have a lot of egg on their collective faces.
Unless the cost of digital decoder boxes drops markedly and new digital
channels or features become available, digital TV will continue to have very
poor market penetration in Australia.
All of this was predicted years ago of course, in this magazine and in the
general media. So you can keep on happily watching your analog TV, safe
in the knowledge that it will be there for years to come.
Leo Simpson
PS: unfortunately, we have had to increase our cover price this month. It’s
our first price rise in three years.
* Recommended and maximum price only.
2 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
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Add 2 high-speed serial ports to
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Low Profile PCI Cards
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Cat 2837-7 1 port RS232 (serial) $85
Cat 2850-7 1 port RS232 (serial) with re-mappable
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Cat 11347-7 Ethernet Card 10/100
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Cat 2840-7 Printer Card,
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Watch Dog = software reset
Watch Dog 2 = power reset.
Cat 17050-7 Watch Dog 2 ISA $399
Cat 17044-7 Watch Dog ISA $165
Cat 17070-7 Watch Dog PCI $332
Cat 17076-7 Watch Dog 2 PCI $649
Easy Transfer Bay
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Laser Barcode Scanners
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Cat 8866-7 This robust,
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Cat 1008039-7 Style and performance! A really
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Cat 1008085-7 This Omni-Directional scanner is
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MP3 player without CF card
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Multi PC Controller PS/2 AT
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Digital Satellite TV card with CI
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Cat 1149-7 $559
Cat 1150-7 This tiny and
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Cat 1133-7 This very fast serial terCat 1150
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Cat 1134
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Cat 1144-7 A thin client terminal suitable for Linux
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Cat 1215-7 This is a Windows Based Terminal,
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Cat 1214-7 This is a Windows Based
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that is suitable for both NT/2000 server
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$999
Cat 1233-7 Remote management software for
Windows Terminals $369
MAILBAG
Motherboard capacitors
need to be tiny
I read your article about the explosive motherboard capaci
tors, in
the May 2003 issue. Unfortunately,
I read it a little too late. I manage
the network for an Internet cafe and
I recently (a month ago) diagnosed
the capacitor problem on 20 of our
motherboards. You have covered the
problem but not enough about the
solution.
You mentioned the low-ESR capacitors you can buy from RS but
unfortunately they were all too big to
fit on these boards (about 20 capacitors
need replacing per board). I imagine
most motherboards will have a similar
problem as everything is squished in
as close as possible.
After many interstate phone calls
and confused sales people, I found
a suitable replacement. The Rubycon ZLH series provide a range of
1500µF capacitors which I managed
to be able to get in an 8mm package.
See www.tenrod.com.au for contact
details. The capacitors cost 60c each
but minimum order quantities are a
problem.
Aaron Russell,
via email.
Mars Rover should
have dust wipers
After reading the article about the
Mars Rover mission, I almost fell off
my chair when I read that the mission
must ul
timately end after 90 days
because of dust accumulating on the
solar panels. There might be other
reasons why the mission will not last
forever but it certainly should not be
because of a bit of dust.
Why are there no simple dust wipers
to keep the panels clean? Ultra-light
wiper arms carrying carbon fibre
bristles, similar to those used to get
the dust off LP records, could avoid
a billion dollar project becoming useless after only 360 duty hours. I don’t
see much chance of it discovering
anything significant in the 13km it is
proposed to travel in that time anyhow.
The wipers would move slowly
(1cm/s) across the panels once an hour
4 Silicon Chip
to avoid dust build-up and run a little
bit over the edge so the collected dust
could be removed from the bristles.
Only tiny motors would be sufficient
for this purpose and they would only
be needed for about one minute per
hour. Their power consumption would
be negligible compared to the power
gain achieved by keeping the panels as
clean as they were on day one.
The six motors and wiper arms
would probably mean an extra 5001000g in weight depending on how
ultra-light they can be built. I have
sent a letter to NASA making this
suggestion.
If NASA can’t fit the wipers in time
for the second launch at least, I honestly believe the second Rover should be
postponed until the next opportunity
in 26 months, instead of blasting useless billions into the sky.
Peter Mendelson,
Coffs Harbour, NSW.
Comment: that’s sounds like an excellent idea, Peter. Bloody brilliant, in
fact! Obviously, NASA needed some
Aussie ingenuity long before this.
Neat process
for plastic boxes
I’m not sure if it is correct etiquette
to give free plugs for advertisers in
your magazine but I am pleased to
have found a solution to a problem
with plastic boxes.
I have been looking for a good way
to cut rectangular holes in plastic
boxes, accurately aligned with the
components that need to fit through
the holes. I asked several experts but
the job seems to be surprisingly difficult. For businesses specialising in
signs, the box was too high, while for
those specialising in furniture, it was
too small. One could accept files only
in a very old version of CorelDraw.
Some people seem to be able to do
it successfully with a mini drill. When
I tried this and when I showed my
handiwork to my friends, they asked,
“Why did you use a chainsaw to make
such a tiny hole?”
I have now developed a procedure that works impressively well
whereby the holes are cut by my PC
board maker, Instant PCBs. I pretend
that my box is a (peculiar) PCB and
prepare the artwork for the hole(s).
I send the file by email and the box
by snail mail to Instant PCBs. They
send back the box with very clean,
very professional holes, located to
PCB precision.
Because we both use PCB software,
then any shape that can be cut into a
PCB can be cut into the box and I don’t
need to learn the idiosyncrasies of yet
another software product. And there
is no hint of a chainsaw!
Keith Anderson,
Kingston, Tas.
Comment: inquiries about this process
can be directed to George at Instant
PCBs. Phone (02) 9974 1189 or email
instantpcbs<at>aol.com
Pointers for home
entertainment PCs
I have some feedback on the “Silent
Running” article in the April 2003 edition of SILICON CHIP. The author of the
article mentioned using a silent-running PC as part of a home entertain
ment system (MP3s and DVDs). The
following information may be helpful
to others, as I have done some experimenting in this area.
To play DVDs successfully with
no jumping or “micro freezes” with a
software DVD decoder (such as WinDVD or PowerDVD), a 1GHz minimum
processor is required regardless of
type (AMD, Intel, etc) as pure maths
processing power is needed (950MHz
produces some jitter). If a hardware
decoder card is being used, then processor power is irrelevant.
The minimum graphics requirement
is an Nvidia TNT2 32MB card or similar and it must be an AGP version, as
www.siliconchip.com.au
the PCI slot cannot provide enough
data transfer speed. Preferably, the
graphics card should have a TV output
and you should use a TV-out interface program that enables the use of
keyboard shortcuts to enable/disable
the TV out, as the monitor usually
produces no picture when TV out is
being used. The TV is generally in a
different room as the computer fan is
too noisy. I use “TV Control Center”
(TVCC 2000) or “TV Tool”.
When decoding DVDs, the processor operates at 100% and the temperature can rise considerably after awhile,
so efficient heatsinking is required.
To play MP3s successfully (no skipping or jumping), you need at least a
133MHz Pentium or 586 processor. I
found it best to use a DOS program
(MPX Play – available free from the
web), as the boot time of the computer
is much reduced.
If you must use Windows (to run
Winamp, etc), it is best to use Windows 95 as the program overhang
and thus boot time is reduced – as
well as lower system requirements.
If you use Windows 95A instead of
Windows 95B, there is a 2GB limit on
the size of the hard drive (as well as
no access to FAT32 formatted drives
greater than 2GB).
If the processor speed is less than
about 500MHz, then the age of the
motherboard may come into play
if a hard drive greater than 8GB is
used (some motherboards have an
upgradeable BIOS though). If the size
of the disk drive is an issue, it can be
partitioned into 2GB or 8GB partitions,
or you can use the appropriate “boot
loader” or “disk master” program to
enable oversized disk drives to be
used. The VIA motherboard mentioned in the article does not have
this problem.
Philip Chugg,
Rocherlea, Tas.
Halogen lamps
waste resources
I was pleased to see that at last
someone has raised the issue of the
proliferation of low voltage halogen
lamps. While I totally agree with
what you have said in the June 2003
“Publisher’s Letter”, you overlooked
one important aspect. That is the huge
waste of natural resources (copper and
www.siliconchip.com.au
steel) that goes into the heaters, sorry,
transformers to power these things.
Sure, low voltage halogen lights
may be “trendy” and offer interior
designers more creative answers but a
plain old incandescent light is cheap,
technically dead simple, and only
needs a pair of wires connected to the
240VAC mains to operate.
Leon Williams,
via email.
Filter for sound
card interface
I am writing in response to the letter
in the “Ask Silicon Chip” pages in
your April 2003 issue about the noisy
sound card interface. I also built the
EA project and found it very noisy. The
noise was coming in on the 5V supply
from the computer.
The sound card interface has a
filter capacitor on the supply line
but needs some series reactance to be
more effective. I experimented with
various chokes in series with the 5V
supply from the computer but found
that a 1kΩ resistor reduced the noise
to an (almost) acceptable level without
reducing the voltage too much.
Mike Hammer,
via email.
Old wireless sound
deficient in bass
I have just read your “Ask Silicon
Chip” (March 2003) sug
gestions in
response to reader R. W.’s query (Reproducing Old Wireless Sound) about
how to reproduce a “wireless” sound
from the 1930s for his amateur theatre
company.
Your comments make a lot of sense
but if I may, might I suggest in addition to limiting the top-end frequency
response to 5kHz as you say, you
would also impart a lot of realism to
the “wireless” sound by rolling off the
bottom-end response starting at, say,
300Hz. The old speaker transformers in the 1930s radios were fairly
hopeless at the low end too and this I
believe was a major limiting factor for
reproducing low audio frequencies in
the average home wireless.
Stan Hood,
Christchurch, NZ.
Comment: the bass response depended
more on the cabinet than the loudspeaker transformers – some were
The Tiger
comes to
Australia
The BASIC, Tiny and Economy
Tigers are sold in Australia by
JED, with W98/NT software and
local single board systems.
Tigers are modules running true compiled multitasking BASIC in a 16/32 bit core, with typically
512K bytes of FLASH (program and data)
memory and 32/128/512 K bytes of RAM. The
Tiny Tiger has four, 10 bit analog ins, lots of
digital I/O, two UARTs, SPI, I2C, 1-wire, RTC and
has low cost W98/NT compile, debug and
download software.
JED makes four Australian boards with up to 64
screw-terminal I/O, more UARTs & LCD/keyboard support. See JED's www site for data.
Intelligent RS232 to RS485
Converter
The JED 995X is
an opto-isolated
standards converter for 2/4 wire
RS422/485 networks. It has a
built-in microprocessor controlling TX-ON, fixing Windows
timing problems of PCs using RTS line control.
Several models available, inc. a new DIN rail
mounting unit. JED995X: $160+gst.
Www.jedmicro.com.au/RS485.htm
$330 PC-PROM Programmer
This programmer plugs into a PC printer port and
reads, writes and edits any 28 or 32-pin PROM.
Comes with plug-pack, cable and software.
Also available is a multi-PROM UV eraser with
timer, and a 32/32 PLCC converter.
JED Microprocessors Pty Ltd
173 Boronia Rd, Boronia, Victoria, 3155
Ph. 03 9762 3588, Fax 03 9762 5499
www.jedmicro.com.au
July 2003 5
Mailbag: continued
really quite good, particu
larly the
bigger console radios. However, there
would not be much output, if any,
below 100Hz.
Vintage radio
speaker repairs
The Vintage Radio column in the
April 2003 issue mentioned repairing
tears in speaker cones. I’ve used another method for some time now and
had success every time.
What I do is cut a piece of supermarket shopping bag to the correct shape
to cover the torn cone area (this works
if it’s basically intact, with no pieces
missing) and glue it to the rear of the
cone. The glue I use is a “never drying”
vinyl floor adhesive which was made
by Carson Adhesives in Brookvale who
recently sold out to Bostick. I believe
they are continuing the Carson brand
of adhesives.
The type number is Carson 698 and
it is also very useful for “doping” and
also repairing silverfish damage to
the outer surrounds of conventional
paper/cloth surround speakers, as it
bonds to paper very well. “Doping”
the outer surround makes all conventional speakers much “tighter” in
their sound and improves the low-end
response.
I’ve even “doped” old MSPs and
Magnavoxes and the improvement in
the sound is just amazing.
Brad Sheargold,
via email.
DVD aspect ratios
are stupid
Back in the February and March
2001 issues of SILICON CHIP, I read
with great interest the letters in “Mailbag” about aspect ratios, even though I
didn’t understand it all. Because I then
didn’t own a DVD player, I forgot about
it. That is, until yesterday when I went
out and bought a new TV (68cm, 4:3
ratio) and a DVD player.
I keenly put my first disc in, pressed
PLAY and was confronted by a stupid-looking narrow strip of colour
across the middle of the screen covering about 50%, with very large black
bars top & bottom. This was 2.35:1.
6 Silicon Chip
Now I may be dumb but I have
three questions. I can understand the
reasons behind 16:9 (mind you the TV
sets are still quite expensive, because
you need a reasonably large one to look
good) but why on earth would anyone
produce a DVD aimed at the home
user in a 2.35:1 format? I believe not
one TV on the market can display this
properly, without black bars.
It seems like another case of big
companies telling us what we are going
to get, even though the vast majority of
us still own and buy 4:3 sets. I won’t
even mention the cropping they do to
“reformat” to some ratios.
Also some discs have a section saying “16:9 transfer dual-layered format
layer transition may trigger a slight
pause”. Does this mean it can also
be played in 16:9, without stretching
everything out of shape?
Is there a way of ripping the disc,
then reformatting and burning a new
copy to at least 16:9? It doesn’t look
too bad on a 4:3 set.
Anyway I’d better stop writing, I’m
getting angry again!
Neil Smith,
via email.
Comment: we don’t blame you for getting angry. 2.35:1 is such a stupid ratio.
Nor are there any practical answers to
your questions.
Batteries are
sometimes preferable
While I agree with the broad sentiments expressed on batteries in the
Publisher’s Letter in the May 2003
issue, I have to disagree with your
qualified suggestion to use rechargeable batteries or plugpacks wherever
possible.
I provide toy repair services to a
number of organisations in Victoria
which serve physically and intellectually disabled children. Battery-operated (“switch”) toys, often sophisticated
and expensive, are used extensively
for therapy, intellectual stimulation
and entertainment. Many of these toys
incorporate motors, LEDs, LCDs, logic
and sound modules, often imposing
a substantial current drain. However,
battery operation is a valuable feature,
permitting use of toys both indoors and
outdoors, independent of AC mains
supplies.
Operation from plugpacks presents
potential safety hazards in a classroom
environment. Extra supervision would
be required to cover disabled children
who habitually chew through the
insulation of low-voltage leads, and
to monitor plugpacks for inadvertent
overheating and possible fire. In addition, there are traffic hazards where
leads are festooned around tables and
wheelchairs.
Finally, plugpacks may not be
electrically compat
i ble with the
power supply (or multiple supplies!)
required for toys, leaving batteries the
only option.
However, there are a lot of questions
surrounding battery use. For example,
why do toy manufacturers advise “Do
not use rechargeable batteries” on
the packaging? Does this only refer
to nicads? Despite accompanying
graphics, battery descriptions such
as “super heavy duty”, “heavy duty”,
“long life”, and “general purpose” are
confusing to consumers.
What about “rechargeable” batteries (eg, nickel-cadmium and other
“exotics” such as NiMH)? I assume
that safety concerns for children arise
from breaching of the case and in the
case of nicads, release of highly toxic
cadmium and alkali which may cause
eye damage and skin burns. This may
result from unintended overcharging
but perhaps elevated temperatures
or mechanical abuse can contribute?
Manufacturers also warn that rechargeable batteries should be kept
out of the reach of children. This is
not necessarily controllable with some
children!
Your suggestion to use apparently
“dead” batteries in low current devices
such as clocks and remote controls is
sensible. I do this regularly. However, many toys and other devices are
voltage sensitive and may present
operating problems. I hope also that
people are not encouraged to reuse
“old” batteries in smoke detectors! If
the battery reuse option is pursued,
use of a suitable (loading) battery tester
rather than a mere voltage check is
absolutely vital.
Brian Graham,
SC
Mt Waverley, Vic,
www.siliconchip.com.au
Photo: Infineon
If you have an E-tag for the tollway, a micro-chipped pet or a latemodel car with an immobiliser key, then you’re already using radio
frequency identification (RFID) technology. But this is only the start.
Over the next few years RFID technology will start to replace bar
code labelling systems. It might even be used to identify people! The
implications are enormous. So what is RFID and how does it work?
R
adio Frequency Identification
(RFID) has been around in one
form or another since World
War II. Although it has been used
in niche industrial sectors for many
years, the increasing desire for greater
efficiencies in supply logistics have
really pushed the development and
use of this technology.
An RFID system consists of a reader
and transponders. Transponders (derived from the words “transmitter”
and “responder”) are attached to the
www.siliconchip.com.au
items to be identified. They are often
called “tags”.
Just like a bar code, a transponder
tag carries data about its host. When
interrogated by a reader, it responds
with that data over a radio frequency
link. The transponder could be really
simple, like those in clothing price
tags, consisting of just an antenna
and diode. When irradiated, the diode
By PETER SMITH
rectifies the incoming carrier and the
frequency-doubled signal is radiated
back to the reader which responds
with an alarm if you try to leave the
store without paying for the product.
These days, the generic term “RFID”
is used to describe an entire range of
dedicated short-range communication
(DSRC) systems.
This article does not attempt to
describe all RFID devices and technologies. Instead, we will focus exclusively on RFIDs used in identity
July 2003 7
Fig.1: a basic
RFID setup consists of a reader
(or interrogator)
and transponder.
Low frequency
systems rely on
inductive coupling to provide
transponder
power.
tagging and closely associated areas.
Let’s begin by dividing the subject
into two broad categories: active and
passive transponders.
Passive Transponders
Passive transponders do not have
an in-built power source; they are
powered entirely from the magnetic/
electric field of the reader’s antenna.
This energy is used to power on-board
electronics as well as to transmit data
back to the reader.
Because of the close coupling
requirements of the reader and programmer, reading distance is limited.
It varies from a few centimetres to
several metres, depending on the
transmission frequency, power level
and other factors that we’ll examine
shortly.
Passive tags come in a huge variety
of shapes and sizes, depending on
their application. They can be made
to withstand extremely harsh environments. Without a battery to run flat,
Active transponders are battery-powered and are generally designed for communication over greater
distances than their passive counterparts. On-board power allows higher
data rates and better noise immunity
but active transponders are bigger, cost
more and have a finite life.
The E-tag for Sydney’s tollways is a
good example of an active tag. Similar
systems in Europe operate in the microwave spectrum, which implies very
high data transfer rates. In fact, the
European systems allow you to speed
through the tollgates at up to 160km/h
and are still able to successfully bill
you for the trip!
be limited to 20 characters, whereas
tag memories can hold 512 bits (or lots
more) of data.
Importantly, the memory on some
tags can be both read and written many
times over, allowing “on-the-fly” data
updates. Simpler tags that contain
“WORM” (write once read many times)
memory are also in use.
Unlike bar coding schemes, “smart”
tags include computational electronics, enabling encrypted, high security
information exchange. This can be seen
in action in the new contactless credit
cards and “electronic purse” systems
already in use throughout Europe.
The invisible medium of radio also
means that tags do not need to be “lineof-sight” to be read. With help from
the on-board electronics, it also allows
multiple tags (within reader range) to
be read “simultaneously”.
Imagine how all this might ultimately change your shopping experience.
You could fill your trolley and wheel it
directly out of the supermarket. Invisible readers at the exits would scan all
of your items and charge your “smart”
credit card while it’s still in your wallet
(or purse)! No waiting at the checkouts
– wouldn’t that be great?
RFID advantages
How passive systems work
The fact that RFID is “contactless”
is only part of its attraction. RFID tags
carry much more data than bar codes.
For example, a typical bar code might
Passive tags usually consist of just
a single IC and an antenna (coil). Currently, most passive tags operate below
100MHz and rely on the magnetic field
they can last indefinitely.
Active transponders
Fig.2: block diagram of a typical low frequency reader. All high-level functions, such as data encryption/
decryption, collision detection and host communication are performed by the microcontroller.
8 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.3: a typical low frequency
transponder. The transistor
across the coil loads (or
“damps”) the reader’s magnetic
field to transmit data from
memory. In most
implementations, a single IC
performs all of these functions.
produced by the reader for both power
and communication.
The reader generates a carrier signal
and this induces a voltage across the
coil of the tag. This voltage is rectified
and filtered to become the power supply for the IC. Some tags also divide
down the carrier signal and use it as
the clock for on-board logic, whereas
others generate their own clock signal.
Tag transmission
Essentially, tag data transmission is
achieved by switching a low resistance
across the antenna coil. Loading the
coil in this way causes a corresponding
dip in the peak voltage across the reader’s coil. In other words, the change
in voltage across the tag’s coil is
reflected back to the reader’s
coil. This is often referred to
as “backscatter”.
The serial data
stream from ROM
(and/or EEPROM/FRAM) memory
does not directly drive the coil-loading
switch. Instead, the switch is driven
by a low-frequency clock source. This
effectively superimposes a weaker
“subcarrier” on the main carrier signal.
Modulating this subcarrier performs
actual data transmission.
Without going into lengthy technical discussions, we can tell you that
the modulation method may be ASK
(amplitude shift keying), PSK (phase
shift keying) or FSK (frequency shift
keying). Serial data is typically Biphase, Manchester or Miller-encoded
before transmission.
stages is cleaned up with a Schmitt
trigger and pumped into a digital
logic block, where the original data is
reconstructed through a demodulation
and/or decoding process.
Typically, all of these functions are
performed by a single IC, supported by
a few external (passive) components
and perhaps an antenna power amplifier. Higher level functions, such as
data encryption/decryption, collision
detection and host interfacing are usually performed by a microcontroller,
which is interfaced to the reader IC
via a simple serial or parallel interface.
Reader reception
For two-way (read/write) systems,
the reader must also be able to transmit
data to the tag (to update the EEPROM/
FRAM). This is typically achieved by
amplitude, pulse-width or pulse-position modulation of the carrier signal.
In its simplest form, transmission
to the tag is performed by switching
the carrier signal on and off (100%
amplitude modulation). A “gap detect” circuit in the tag serialises and
demodulates the “gaps” and “no gaps”
to reconstruct the original data.
Once a complete data frame is received, it is checked for validity (using
a CRC polynomial). If sufficient power
is available, it is then committed to
memory.
In some systems, the carrier is not
switched on and off but is modulated
at a particular “depth” (about 10%).
This makes more power available for
In order to receive tag data transmissions, the reader’s antenna
signal is first processed by
analog front-end circuitry. Its main functions are to remove
the carrier signal
and then amplify
the (much) smaller
sub-carrier.
The resultant signal
from the envelope detection, filtering and amplifying
A much larger-than-life computerrendered image of TI’s DST+ (Digital Signture
Transponder Plus) module. These are embedded
into vehicle keys to provide sophisticated fraud
prevention information. The long ferrite rod
coil and transponder IC are clearly visible.
www.siliconchip.com.au
Reader to tag transmission
July 2003 9
tag use, extending range and enables
smaller tag antennas to be used.
Frequencies and antennas
A collection of 14.35MHz tags and labels with TI’s “Tag-it” transponders hidden
inside. Photo: Texas Instruments
This is what’s inside the tags and labels. In bare format, the transponders are
referred to as “inlays”. Photo: Texas Instruments
The most common frequencies
in use for passive RFID systems are
125kHz - 134.2kHz and 13.56MHz,
with a few operating up in the 900MHz
and 2.45GHz regions. The frequency
of operation has a very big impact
on system design, configuration and
cost, and it’s all to do with “near” and
“far” fields.
Antennas radiating an electromagnetic field generate what is known as
“near” and “far” field components.
Most passive transponders rely on
inductive coupling, so they utilise
the “near” field component. The
“near” field signal decays as the cube
of distance (1/r3) from the antenna,
whereas the “far” field signal decays
as the square of the distance (1/r2) from
the antenna.
As you can see, the use of inductive
coupling and “near” field severely limits the reading distance. However, this
can be desirable, as it allows engineers
to tightly control the radiating pattern
and reach of the reader’s field. To
borrow from our earlier supermarket
example, it is possible to ensure that
shoppers are only charged for what is
in their trolley (and in their pockets!).
Low frequencies and small tag sizes
are two other important reasons for
using the “near” field. For example,
consider the size of conventional
¼-wave dipoles for 125kHz (or even
14.35MHz) that would be needed for
“far” field communication. These
would need to be 600m and 5.23m
long, respectively; much too big for integration into a pea-sized transponder
or credit card!
For inductive coupling, the antenna (we use the term loosely) must be
resonant at the chosen carrier frequency. This is achieved by adding
some parallel capacitance (for the
transponder) or series capacitance
(for the reader) to a known value of
antenna inductance.
Size does matter
Reader size varies according to application. Miniature units with built-in
antennas are available, whereas store-front models need walk-through antenna
loops. Here are two semi-portable (14.35MHz) readers from TI. As indicated in
the foreground, these models are designed for ID card use. Photo: Texas Inst.
10 Silicon Chip
Reader and transponder antenna
size is a critical factor in “near” field
systems. As the tag size is generally
fixed (in credit card form factor, for
example), the reader side becomes the
variable. Many manufacturers quote
a “rule of thumb” reading distance
roughly equivalent to the diameter of
www.siliconchip.com.au
the reader’s antenna.
Identification Numbers.
However, it’s important to
240,000 books and 60,000 CDs
note that factors such as antenna
and DVDs in Vienna’s new main
orientation, radiated power and
library have been equipped with
environmental conditions all
RFID transponders. Self-service terhave significant effects on reading
minals in the library make checkout
distance.
completely painless.
For 125/134.2kHz systems, the
Mobil has teamed up with Texas
antennas (OK, the coils!) are conInstruments to create a hybrid acstructed with many turns of wire,
tive & passive transponder system
often wound on ferrite cores to
for petrol purchase. Based on TI’s
reduce size. Transponder coils can
TIRIS system, it enables thousands
be as small as a cm or two, making
of motorists in the US to fill up
them ideal for animal tagging (imwithout the need for cash or even
plants) and car security systems.
a card. Transponders in both the
Data transfer speed is typically
car and the driver’s key ring make
between 2 - 10kb/s.
a positive ID as soon as the vehicle
pulls up to the pump. Now all they
By contrast, 14.35MHz tranneed is a robot to fill the tank…
sponder antennas require less than Close up of a Tag-it inlay. The tiny black dot
10 turns (the readers may have only is the transponder IC, with the antenna coil
occupying most of the remaining space. These Where to from here?
one turn), which is easily printed as
a foil pattern for tag inlays or etched inlays are small and highly flexible and can
Despite all this activity, there are
directly onto PC boards. This fre- be attached to almost anything. Photo: Texas
still some wrinkles to be ironed out
Instruments
quency is widely used for credit
before you’ll see RFID in use in
cards, identity tags, anti-theft layour local supermarket. The lack
bels and bar code replacements. Data
of international RF standards (bands
The company now has the ability to
transfer speed at this frequency is up track the tagged garments even after
and power levels) is frustrating develto 100kb/s.
purchase, which is proving to be a opment. In addition, the cost per tag
is still prohibitive for use on low-cost
somewhat controversial ability.
UHF/microwave systems
products.
The London public transportation
Passive systems that operate in the
The bean counters tell us that tags
system is installing a smart ticketing
900MHz and 2.45GHz regions are also system that uses contactless smart must be priced at less than 1% of the
in use. The considerably shorter wave- cards. This is reputedly the largest products they’re attached to. Recent
length of these frequencies allows the
project of its kind to date, with 80,000 reports indicate prices as low as 10c
use of dipole antennas (usually 1/8staff already issued with Philips apiece but that’s still too expensive
wave) and the “far” field emissions
for the frozen peas and baked beans.
MIFARE cards.
of the reader.
On-going research into organic
Michelin engineers have develReader range is considerable longer oped RFID transponders that can be
semiconductors might prove to be the
(>3 metres) than for lower frequency
embedded into their tires, to store in- ultimate answer. Using this emerging
systems. However, microwave fre- formation such as maximum inflation technology, it may soon be possible to
quencies are highly directional and pressure, tire size, etc. It also allows “print” transducers just as we currentSC
readily absorbed by organic tissue, tyres to be associated with Vehicle
ly print barcode labels!
which makes them unsuitable for
many applications.
High frequency tags also require
precision manufacturing and more
expensive electronics than their
lower-frequency counterparts but
they can support data rates of 2Mb/s
or more.
RFID in the news
High profile manufacturers and retailers like Proctor & Gamble, Gillette,
Wal-Mart and Tesco are currently
trialing RFID technology. They’re
employing “smart” shelves that keep
track of stock using transponder tags.
When stock levels drop too low, the
shelves automatically notify staff.
Benetton have embraced the technology, sewing Philips I.CODE tags
into thousands of their retail products.
www.siliconchip.com.au
125/134.2kHz transponder modules can be manufactured in almost any shape
and size, as demonstrated by this collection. Photo: Texas Instruments
July 2003 11
To make solar power workable and cost-effective,
there are a few rules to be followed. Much of
it is commonsense but some aspects are not obvious,
like making sure that battery storage is matched to
solar panel capacity. Here, we look at the best approach.
Solar Power
for Caravans &
Motor-homes:
Dispelling the
Myths
By COLLYN RIVERS*
T
falling
on the more habitable parts of
Australia averages 1000 watts
per square metre. Only 10% of that
can presently be turned into electricity but this is still enough to be useful.
My off-road OKA motor-home runs
a 70-litre fridge, multiple halogen
lights and an Iridium satphone, all
from two 80-watt modules. It has not
he energy of sunlight
12 Silicon Chip
run out of power in the past seven
years. My all-solar-electric home
north of Broome runs from an 1800W
solar array and has enough energy left
over each day to irrigate 150 trees.
Solar energy really can be made to
work but there are a few traps that can
result in less energy being captured
than expected, and even less ability
to store and retrieve it.
The most common result is that
your storage batteries will run down
much sooner than expected.
Worse still, because they are not
being fully charged, many expensive
storage batteries will expire within a
year. The biggest trap relates to solar
module output – the industry uses
the term ‘panels’ for assemblies of
modules.
www.siliconchip.com.au
Solar modules are curious devices that only produce
their claimed output in quite specific applications and
‘Standard Operating Conditions’ that bear little or no
relationship to reality.
Watts ain’t necessarily Watts
A watt is defined as one amp multiplied by one volt. To
produce 80 watts, a module feeding a system operating at
say, 12.8V MUST therefore produce 6.25A.
But Table 1 (which is from the back of a real-life 80-watt
module), shows it only puts out 4.6A. The solar module
industry is not known for understatement so you can bet
that the output is not a tad more.
Here’s how the arithmetic is worked out:
Solar modules produce much the same current across a
wide range of load voltage. To establish maximum output,
the solar industry plots load voltage against current and
picks whatever combination gives the highest number.
Physics being as it is, for the module (Table 1) to develop
80 watts at 4.6A, that 4.6A has to be developed with 17.3V
across the load.
This is fine if your system runs at 17.3V. Such systems
being as rare as sardines that ride unicycles, the only way
you can fully utilise an output at 17.3V is via a DC-DC
converter that gives more amps at less volts (these are
sometimes used in sophisticated large-scale systems),
or by driving a load (such as some water pumps) whose
output is proportionate to input voltage.
If the load is a 12V charger, the most energy transferable
(for the module in Table 1) is 4.6A times (say) 14.5V, ie,
about 67 watts. If the load is 12.6V, the most that can be
transferred is 58 watts.
Temperature losses
Mono and polycrystalline modules lose about 4-5% of
their output for every 10°C increase in temperature.
*About the author . . .
Collyn Rivers, shown here working in his all-solar
home north of Broome, WA, is well known as the
Founding Editor of Electronics Today International
which, in 1976, was proclaimed the ‘Best Electronics
Magazine in the World’ by the Union Internationale
de la Presse Radiotechnique et Electronique, and was
produced as separate editions in Australia, UK, Canada,
France, Holland, Germany, India, and Indonesia.
The rated output is measured at 25°C but this does not
refer to the ambient temperature; it refers to the operating
temperature of the cells.
Typically, at 25°C ambient, those cells will be around
55°C (under a hot sun) so there goes 12-15% of the output.
At 35°C the loss is 16-20%.
In contrast, amorphous technology (Uni-Solar, Solarex
Millennium) modules increase their output slightly as
temperature increases. In practice, a 64-watt amorphous
If you’re planning to get off the beaten track but still want a few creature comforts (like lighting, TV, computers, etc) solar
power is the way to go. It’s not difficult to install and set up but there are a few pitfalls for the unwary . . .
www.siliconchip.com.au
July 2003 13
Table 1: an “80W”
solar panel’s ratings
reveal that the
eighty watts is
mainly a figment
of the
manufacturer’s
imagination (or
at least their
marketing
department’s . . .)
module produces the same as an 80-watt module of any
other type, once above 36-38°C. But they are about 30%
larger.
For any practical purpose (which does not include a
17.3V caravan system at the top of Mt Kosciusko), an 80watt solar module produces about 58 watts or a bit less,
in very hot places. Most modules reveal this but only in
the fine technical print.
Many systems fail to deliver because someone (not
unreasonably) assumed a module’s amperage is the rated
output in watts, divided by about 12.0 (volts).
Solar regulators
Interfaced between solar modules and the load, solar
regulators ensure that batteries charge as rapidly and
efficiently as possible. They also maintain the system at
approximately 13.6V, once the batteries are close to fully
charged.
The most basic are voltage-sensitive on/off switches.
The more complex use pulse-width modulation and incorporate all-but-essential system and battery monitoring
(see below).
A solar regulator should be used in every system,
except where solar output is less than 0.5% of battery
capacity.
Peak Sun Hour contours for July
(above) and January (below).
Multiplying true module output
by the relevant number of peak
sun hours gives the wattage output
for one day. There is no need to correct
for changes as the sun moves across the sky. These
(redrawn) maps are based on Australian Bureau of
Meteorology data. (Taken
from “Solar That
Really Works!”
by the author.)
Beware of ‘self-regulating’ modules. These have insufficient voltage to overcharge a battery and in hot places their
temperature loss may be such that they will not charge a
battery at all.
Battery traps
Ironically, some of the worst people to ask about batteries are those who work in general electronic disciplines!
The (US) Ample Power company states that, [to understand batteries] “general electronic knowledge isn’t
enough... even those working in battery distribution
channels can’t be relied upon to dispense correct and
meaningful information”.
Deep-cycle batteries in particular are complex mechanisms. A short article like this cannot make you an expert
but hopefully it covers the essentials – and may show how
some of you are killing batteries right now.
All lead-acid batteries have internal resistance. That
internal resistance is described in ‘Peukert’s Law’ (for14 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
This limited charging of car batteries is not a problem
for starting. The starter motor is designed to work at the
corresponding voltage. Limiting charging to 14.2-14.4V
also safeguards electrical components.
The car battery’s only major role (apart a voltage reference) is to start the car. If you want to win bets, ask your
friends how much energy this needs. The answer usually
surprises most people – it’s negligible.
The starter motor gobbles 300-400A but typically for less
than five seconds. This is about 0.5Ah or what a tail-light
draws in about 15 minutes.
The alternator replaces this in a minute or two, by which
time the battery is back up to about 65% charge. But from
there on the charge rate tapers rapidly.
By 70%, charging has dropped to an amp or two and is
falling fast. The battery still continues charging but very
slowly. Given long enough it will eventually over-charge
but that takes hundreds of hours. For most vehicles, battery
charging effectively stops at 70%.
Disaster for house batteries
mulated in 1897) which states that the greater the rate of
discharge, the greater the internal loss, hence the lower
the percentage of charged capacity that can be used.
It’s like the inverse of pouring beer quickly into a cold
glass – the quicker you pour, the greater the foam and the
less the glass is filled. You may want to repeat this experiment a few times (hic).
A battery is charged by applying a voltage across it
greater than it already has. The charging rate is more or
less proportional to that voltage difference, so it tapers off
as the battery gains charge.
Constant voltage charging
If the charging voltage is fixed, then as the battery
voltage rises, the charge rate automatically falls. This is
how a car alternator/regulator works. It’s called ‘constant
voltage charging’. When used in a car system, it does
not and cannot fully charge the battery. It’s deliberately
designed not to.
Some vehicles are driven for many hours a day (like taxis
on shift work) so it’s necessary to prevent overcharging.
This is achieved by limiting charge
voltage to 14.2-14.4V. This corresponds
to about 70% of nominal battery capacity, after which the charge rate rapidly
tapers off. The battery continues to
charge but so slowly that it takes 100
hours or so of non-stop driving to even
approach full charge.
If charged at that voltage continuously however, the battery will eventually be over-charged. The charge
voltage is therefore very much a compromise. Battery makers say that, with
caravans and motor-homes, 65% of
full charge is typical and 70% is rare.
www.siliconchip.com.au
This charging regime is OK for the starter battery but
far from satisfactory if used to parallel-charge a ‘house’
battery in a caravan or motor-home, not just because of
the 70% or so limitation but also because the extra alternator capacity needed to achieve that in reasonable time
is unlikely to exist. This can be a problem as it will also
affect the starter battery in the same way.
Even the best batteries are progressively damaged if
they are frequently discharged below 50% capacity. This
then leaves a mere 20% of battery capacity available, if
one follows their makers’ advice.
In practice, most people discharge their batteries until
the fridge stops working, which corresponds to about 80%
discharge. Even discharged this deeply, only 45-50Ah can
be pulled out of a 300Ah battery charged to 65%-70%.
And each time you do it, 0.5% of the remaining battery
capacity goes to sulphate heaven.
There are various ways around this. One is to use a
‘smart regulator’. Alternator willing, these initially charge
at a constant current of up to 25% of battery Ah capacity.
Once past 14.4V or so, charging is cut back to about 10%
of Ah capacity to allow the charge to be absorbed. This is
usually followed by a ‘float’ level of about 13.6V. There
are several really good smart regulators now available in
Australia.
Another solution is to accept the limitations of the
charging system and switch to gel cell or AGM batteries.
Table 2: typical daily
power requirement
for a medium-sized
caravan. Of course,
individuals may vary
significantly from
these figures but they
give you an idea of
where to start with
your own power
requirements. Add
a microwave oven
and you’ll blow these
figures right out of
the water!
July 2003 15
Both charge close to 100% from only 13.8-14.1V and can
be discharged more deeply than conventional batteries
with less internal harm.
Yet another way, adopted by many caravanners and a
few motor-home owners, is not to rely on vehicle charging
at all. Their house battery charges from solar alone.
If you drive more than a couple of hours most days, it
pays to use vehicle charging, especially if you add a smart
regulator. If you don’t, it doesn’t. (Note: smart regulators
cannot be used with today’s electronic engine management
systems.)
Battery monitoring
Lead acid batteries store energy in the form of chemical
reactions between lead plates and a water/acid electrolyte.
These reactions are extremely slow so little is gleaned
from instantaneous voltage measurements except that the
meter is working.
A close to ‘flat’ battery will present as close to fully
charged after a few minutes on high charge – an otherwise
well-charged battery will present as ‘flat’ for some time
after running a microwave oven. Hydrometer readings are
a little better but not much.
The only meaningful indication is the voltage after the
battery has rested literally for three days (and even then
the error may be 15%).
A very much better way is by measuring what goes in
and what comes out and deducting a bit for system losses
(but even this is inaccurate unless corrected for Peukert’s
Law). This function, plus many others, is now built-in to
most up-market solar regulators. These cost around $300
upwards.
Supplementation or self-sufficiency?
There are two main approaches to using solar power.
They may not seem that different but the technical implications are profound, as is the effect on battery longevity.
The first approach is to use solar to supplement the
energy already in the battery from vehicle charging. This
lets you stay longer on-site but sooner or later (and usually
sooner, because you probably started at 65-70% charge),
you can no longer keep the tinnies cold.
All told, it is better to have sufficient solar input to be
self-sufficient. This needs surprisingly little more capacity
if you are setting up to stay at least 5-7 days on site.
The big difference is that the first way has batteries being continually and deeply discharged – and commonly
flattened.
The self-sufficient way has batteries remaining close to
fully charged. They typically rise beyond 95% during the
day, dropping to 80% overnight. Batteries just love this,
and return the compliment by living forever. And there’s
no ongoing concern about the battery running down.
Available energy
This one’s easy. The solar industry quantify sunlight in
units called ‘Peak Sun Hours – commonly abbreviated to
PSH, or just ‘sun-hours’.
A sun-hour is like a 50-litre drum of sunlight of uniform density: no matter where or when it is gathered,
the drum contains the same amount of energy. The
same people produce sun-hour maps that use contours
to show the average number of sun-hours at different
times of the year.
Most sun-hour maps show irradiation in units that need
juggling to be meaningful. The sun-hour map in this feature
needs only the relevant sun-hour number to be multiplied
by the (true) module output. For example, an ‘80-watt’
module (realistically 58 watts) produces 175-350Wh a
day in most places one visits from choice.
Cloud cover and smoke
Sun hour maps allow for average cloud cover but there
are likely to be exceptional days. It is extremely rare to
experience zero solar input. Heavy cloud typically cuts
input by 50%. The greatest loss is heavy cloud and rain
and also even light smoke from bush fires. Irradiation is
commonly diffuse, so light haze may actually increase it,
particularly near water or light coloured sand that reflects
back to the haze layer.
Module orientation
Over time, optimum input is obtained with the module/s facing into the sun but having the modules flat on
a vehicle roof is an acceptable compromise. Except for
way down south, there will typically be 15-20% loss and
this is readily and cheaply compensated for by adding the
equivalent solar module capacity.
What can be powered
Two items are typically responsible for 70% of daily
electrical consumption and system cost. These are refrigerators and microwave ovens.
A really efficient 40-70 litre chest-type compressor-driven 12/24V electric fridge uses 250-350Wh/day.
A larger (say 110-litre) front-opening fridge of the same
type uses 500-600Wh/day (Wh is watt-hours). These are
realistically the largest electric fridges that are practicable
Batteries for Solar Power Systems
Pictured at right is the "Sungel" battery, an Australian designed and manufactured battery
specifically intended for remote area power systems, including solar systems. Developed in
conjunction with the CSIRO, the battery is claimed to have a 12+ year design life (double the
life of other gell cells) and is available in a range of sizes and capacities.
Where most lead-acid cells cash in their chips with deep discharge cycles, the Sungel is
claimed to suffer no ill-effects with continual 25% discharging (5000+ cycles) and will still give
2500+ cycles at 50% discharging. Even an 80% discharge regime will still yield 1500+ cycles.
The manufacturers, batteryenergy, also have an even higher-rated VRLA gell cell, the energel,
with a 20+ year design life.
For more information, visit www.batteryenergy.com.au or call batteryenergy on (02) 9681 3633.
16 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
to run from solar power (unless you run a solar module
franchise on the side).
Better by far are the three-way gas/12V/240VAC units.
These run on 12V while driving (when they pull up to
15A). They can be run on 240VAC mains power if and
when available, and gas at all other times – NEVER while
driving.
Microwave ovens are energy gobblers. Most people
assume that because they may say 600-800 watts on their
fronts – that’s what they draw.
That rating is the heat equivalent of the energy they
produce, NOT the electrical energy consumed in doing
so. The latter is typically 60% more.
Another 15% is lost in the big inverter needed to drive
it (big sine-wave inverters drop off in efficiency at close
to full load) . Driven via an inverter, these ovens typically
draw 150 plus amps (at 12V).
Ten minutes running a microwave oven equates to the
better part of a day’s output from a 64-watt module. Apart
from the above, you can run most appliances except those
whose primary function is to produce or shift heat.
The most efficient lighting is the still developing LED
technology, followed by fluorescent (compact globes or
tubes) and halogen respectively. Incandescents draw too
much to consider (four times that of fluorescent lights).
Sizing the system
When assessing probable daily consumption, add 10%
to most things driven via an inverter (15% for microwave
ovens) and another 10% to everything to allow for charging/discharging losses.
The total result for all your proposed appliances is
typical daily usage. If it varies much from Table 2 go
over it again or your system will be bigger and cost more
than most.
If you intend only to supplement the battery energy,
calculate your proposed battery availability (from probably initial 70% charge to your decision on discharge
level). The amount available is typically 30-35% of
nominal Amp-hour capacity, ie, 30 amp-hours from a
100Ah battery.
Divide the above by the number of days you want to
stay on-site. This gives you the amount available per day.
If you stay three days, you have 10Ah available.
From your probable daily usage, corrected for losses,
subtract the daily battery energy available. The difference
is the amount of you need to produce each day. From
actual module output, calculate the number of modules
you need.
Calculating self-sufficiency:
Calculate probable daily energy (corrected for losses).
Much of the information for this article comes from
Collyn Rivers’ recent book, “Solar That Really
Works – Caravan Edition”. It goes into the subject
in significantly more detail.
The book is available at $37 including postage
and packing, direct from the publisher, Caravan
& Motorhome Books, PO Box 3634, Broome, WA
6725. Phone 08 9192 5961
Website: www.caravanandmotorhomebooks.com
www.siliconchip.com.au
There isn’t much of Australia which Collyn Rivers and his
wife Maarit haven’t crossed. Their WA-made OKA fully
solar-equipped 4WD off-roader is seen here crossing a
sand dune in the Simpson Desert.
Calculate module capacity needed to provide the above
plus 15%-30% (to enable rapid battery recovery following
exceptional loads and cloud cover.
Suitable battery capacity should not exceed five times
total daily solar input, eg. two 80-watt modules typically
operating with five sun-hr/day are likely to produce 116
x 5 = 580Wh/day (or a bit under 50Ah). The optimum
battery capacity is therefore 250Ah but since this may
weigh 100kg or more, lack of weight-carrying capacity
may limit it to less.
A deep-cycle battery used in a properly designed self-sufficient application can be assume to be 90% charged most
of the time and the occasional deep-discharge (eg, to 20%
remaining capacity) is acceptable. About 70% of nominal
capacity is thus available for use and a 350Ah battery bank
will be fine.
Sun-hour assumptions
Plotted sun-hour data is surprisingly accurate but
knowing this is of no help unless you know where you
are likely to be, and when.
As a general guide, solar self-sufficiency is practicable
from 2 sun-hours/day if you use a gas/electric fridge; from
3 sun-hours/day if you have an efficient 40-70 litre chest
type fridge, and 4 sun-hours/day for a door-opening electric
fridge (but this will still need a lot of modules).
If you go for an electric-only fridge, it’s advisable to have
back-up generator – preferably a DC unit producing up to
15V for quick battery charging. Most combination 240V
AC/12V DC generators cannot produce anything like 15V
and therefore will never fully charge a battery.
If you design the system assuming four or more sunhours/day, it’s advisable to allow for adding
further solar capacity in the future, ie, by
installing adequate cable and solar regulator
capacity.
The Golden Rule
Never have more battery capacity than
you can speedily re-charge. If you need to
economise, cut back on battery storage not
solar modules. If you cannot generate it,
SC
you cannot store it anyway.
July 2003 17
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
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dicksmith.com.au
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
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SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
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SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
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New design programs blank
Gold wafer smart cards
By PETER SMITH
Smart card reader
& programmer
This unit allows you to program both the microcontroller and EEPROM in the popular “Gold”
wafer smart cards. It hooks up to the serial port
of your PC and can be operated as a freestanding unit or installed in a PC drive bay.
B
ACK IN THE January 2003 issue of
SILICON CHIP, we described a basic
smart card reader and programmer
that is capable of accessing the EEPROM (data) memory component of
Gold wafer cards over a Phoenix-type
interface.
This type of programmer is all that’s
needed for cards that contain pre-programmed PICs. For blank cards, how22 Silicon Chip
ever, it’s only half of the solution. Read
on to find out why.
Smart card smarts
Smart cards come in dozens of different configurations, with different
microcontrollers, memory sizes and
even contact positions. However, the
cards that we’re interested in conform
to a recognised set of ISO standards,
described in ISO-7816 and entitled
“Identification Cards – Integrated
Circuit Cards with Contacts”.
Parts 1-3 of this document define
things like physical dimensions, contact size and position, and interface
AC & DC characteristics. They also
describe the protocol used to exchange
information across the card interface.
Gold wafer cards
Due to their lower cost and available
software support, this project targets
the “Gold” wafer smart card variety.
The Gold card incorporates just two
ICs: a PIC16F84(A) and a 24(L)C16
EEPROM.
Reproduced from the January 2003
article, Fig.1 depicts the internal insiliconchip.com.au
terconnections. As you can see, the
EEPROM is not wired to the interface
contacts but is controlled exclusively
by the PIC.
In a real application, the PIC is
programmed with a card operating
system. The function of this operating
system depends entirely on the card’s
application but at least one of its tasks
is to provide access to EEPROM data
via the interface.
With this arrangement, the requirements for EEPROM access are quite
straightforward. They entail a relatively simple hardware interface to
the card and some software that can
speak the ISO protocol. This was the
basis of the first reader/programmer
design.
Blank cards
But what happens if the PIC’s program (Flash) memory is blank? With
no card operating system, how do we
access the EEPROM? The answer is,
of course, that it can’t be done with
this type of card (or with the original
reader/programmer design).
So how is the PIC programmed?
Well, the connections between the
PIC and the card contacts have been
designed for dual purposes. As well as
supporting “normal” operation, they
also allow the PIC to be programmed
in-circuit.
Unlike the previous design, then,
this new design includes the ability
to program the PIC on a blank card.
Of course, you can also erase and
reprogram the PIC on a used card too,
if so desired.
Fig.1: this diagram
shows the internals
of a Gold wafer
card. If you want to
know more about
the PIC16F84A
and 24LC16 chips,
detailed data
sheets can be
downloaded from
www.microchip.com
Smartmouse or Phoenix-type interface
is required. On the other hand, to read
or program the PIC’s internal memories, a PIC programming interface is
required.
Our design solves this conundrum
by providing both types of interfaces.
A 4-pole 2-position pushbutton switch
(S1) is used to select between the two
interfaces, or “modes”.
Fig.2 shows the circuit details for
the Smart Card Reader/Programmer.
This shows S1 set to the Smartmouse/
Phoenix (“normal”) position so we’ll
look at the circuit operation in this
mode first.
Smartmouse/Phoenix mode
In this mode, the interface consists
of four signal lines: I/O (Input/Output), CLK (Clock), RST (Reset) and
Card Detect.
All information exchange between
the card and the outside world occurs
in half-duplex serial format on the I/O
interface line. To help with the explanation, we’ll refer to this information
as “data”. However, actual information
exchange may consist of commands
(to the card), status (from the card)
and EEPROM memory data (to and
from the card).
Data from the PC to the smart card
is transmitted on the serial port TXD
line. It arrives on CON4 (pin 3) and is
converted to digital logic levels by the
15kΩ & 100kΩ resistors and clamp diodes D4 & D5. IC2f buffers and inverts
the data and it is then applied to the
smart card I/O (C7) line via a 4.7kΩ
isolation resistor and S1d.
Tracing the I/O line back from the
smart card socket, it connects to pin
11 of IC1 via a 470Ω resistor. This
path carries data from the smart card
back to the PC. It is transmitted on
the serial port RXD line (CON4, pin
2) after conversion to RS232 voltage
PC connection
Initially, Gold cards and their predecessors were designed for use in
set-top boxes and the like. However, it
wasn’t long before someone interfaced
one to a PC serial port and wrote some
software to access the internals. This
is probably the origin of the so-called
“Phoenix” interface.
With a tiny change to the Phoenix
interface, it becomes a “Smartmouse”
interface, another popular “standard”
among the card community. Our new
design is compatible with both of these
interfaces.
How it works
As outlined earlier, the cards that
we wish to read and write contain two
separate ICs: a PIC microcontroller and
an EEPROM. To access the EEPROM, a
siliconchip.com.au
We fitted our prototype to a standard 3.5-inch to 5.25-inch drive mounting kit
which was then slotted into a spare drive bay.
July 2003 23
Parts List
1 PC board, code 07107031,
141mm x 101mm
1 ICA-700 smart card socket
(landing contact style) (CON1)
1 9-way 90° PC-mount female ‘D’
connector (CON4)
1 4PDT PC-mount slide switch
with green LED indicator (S1
& LED3)
2 M205 fuse clips
1 M205 500mA quick blow fuse
2 3-way 2.54mm SIL header strips
2 jumper shunts
1 9-way RS232 cable (D9 male
to D9 female, see text)
240mm (approx.) length of
0.71mm tinned copper wire
Semiconductors
1 MAX232 RS232 receiver/driver
IC (IC1)
2 74HC04 hex inverters (IC2, IC3)
1 2N3906 PNP transistor (Q1)
1 2N3904 NPN transistor (Q2)
1 78L05 +5V regulator (REG1)
1 1N4004 diode (D1)
4 1N4148 diodes (D2-D5)
1 13V 1W zener diode (ZD1)
1 3.579545MHz crystal (X1)
1 6MHz crystal (X2)
1 3mm red LED (LED1)
1 3mm yellow LED (LED2)
Capacitors
1 100µF 25V PC electrolytic
2 10µF 16V PC electrolytic
7 1µF 50V monolithic ceramic
1 220nF (0.22µF) 50V monolithic
ceramic
1 100nF (0.1µF) 50V monolithic
levels by IC1, a MAX232 receiver/
driver IC.
Before communication can be established with a card, it must first be
initialised to a known state. This is
accomplished with the Reset signal,
which is controlled by the serial port
RTS line (CON4, pin 7). Again, IC1
converts this to a logic-compatible
(0-5V) level, after which it is applied
to the RST (C2) line of the card via
switch S1b.
With jumper JP1 positioned as
shown, the RST signal polarity is
compatible with the Phoenix-type
interface. However, by moving the
jumper to position 2-3, the RST signal
24 Silicon Chip
ceramic
2 22pF 50V ceramic disc
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 1MΩ
3 4.7kΩ
1 100kΩ
2 1.5kΩ
3 47kΩ
3 1kΩ
1 15kΩ
6 470Ω
1 10kΩ
1 47Ω
Additional parts for freestanding version
1 2.5mm PC-mount DC socket
(CON2)
9V DC 150mA (min.) plugpack
4 small stick-on rubber feet
Additional parts for PC drive
bay-mounted version
1 90° PC-mount disk drive power
connector (CON3)
1 3.5-inch to 5.25-inch disk drive
mounting adapter & screws
(Jaycar XC-4630 & www.
pccasegear.com.au)
3 M3 x 10mm cheese head screws
3 M3 nuts
6 M3 flat washers
Where to buy a kit
The design copyright for this project
is owned by Jaycar Electronics and
complete kits of the freestanding
version will be available from Jaycar
by the time this article appears in
print (kit includes the PC board plus
all on-board components). Note: the
Jaycar kit will be supplied with standard IC sockets instead of machined
IC sockets, as used on the prototype.
is inverted by IC3b and the interface
becomes Smartmouse compatible.
If you’ve worked with PIC micros
before, you’ll know that apart from
power (Vcc) and ground (GND), they
also require a clock source to function. This is supplied on the CLK (C3)
interface line and is generated by a
conventional Pierce oscillator formed
by IC2e, a crystal and a few passive
components.
To ensure compatibility with a
wide range of cards and software, the
oscillator frequency can be set to either 3.5795MHz (crystal X1) or 6MHz
(crystal X2), depending on the position
of JP2. IC2d buffers the oscillator out-
put and series termination is provided
with a 47Ω resistor.
Card detection
When a card is inserted, it makes
physical contact with a switch at the
rear of the socket. One side of the
switch is connected to ground, while
the other is pulled up to +5V with
a 10kΩ resistor. When the contacts
close, signalling a fully inserted card, a
connection to ground is made through
the switch, pulling pin 10 of IC1 low.
After conversion to RS232 levels
by IC1, the Card Detect signal appears
on serial port lines CD and CTS. Both
lines are driven in order to be compatible with various card applications.
Well, that’s all there is to the Phoenix/Smartmouse interface. It’s very
similar to the circuitry used in the
reader/programmer described last
January. Now let’s look at the PIC programming interface, selected when S1
is in the alternative position.
PIC programming mode
Although this mode utilises the
same physical connections to the card
as those described above, the electrical
characteristics of the signals, as well
as their connections to the PC serial
port, are quite different.
With S1 in the alternative (righthand) position, the board is transformed into a Ludipipo/JDM-compatible PIC programmer. Compatibility with these types of programmers
enables us to take advantage of the
many free PIC programming software
packages available on the Internet.
In this mode, only three signals are
required: DATA, CLK & MCLR/VPP.
As before, data is exchanged over
a single interface line, now named
“DATA”. However, in this mode,
transmission from the PC occurs on
the serial port DTR line (CON4, pin 4).
The incoming data is first converted to
logic levels by IC1 and then inverted
by IC3e. A 4.7kΩ resistor provides the
necessary isolation before the signal
is piped into the card via S1d on the
DATA (C7) line.
Conversely, outgoing data is first
inverted by IC3c and is fed via S1c
and a 470Ω resistor to IC1 for level
conversion and transmission on the
CTS serial line.
When in programming mode, PIC
micros do not require a conventional
clock (oscillator) source. Instead, a
signal timed specifically for the prosiliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: the complete circuit diagram of the Smart Card Reader/Programmer. Slide switch (S1) is central to its operation,
routing signals between the PC’s serial port and the card interface according to the selected mode.
gramming sequence must be provided
on the RB6 pin. Just to confuse matters, this signal is still referred to as
“CLOCK”.
siliconchip.com.au
The CLOCK signal originates from
the serial port RTS line. Once again,
IC1 does the level conversion after
which the signal is inverted by IC3b
and fed to the card via S1a.
Vpp generation
Many early PIC micros, including
July 2003 25
Table 2: Capacitor Codes
Value
220nF
100nF
22pF
µF Code EIA Code IEC Code
0.22µF
220n
224
0.1µF
100n
104
22pF 22p 22
the PIC16F84(A), must be supplied
with a high voltage (12.5V - 13.5V)
during programming of the internal
Flash and EEPROM memories. Our
design uses a unique method of generating this programming voltage (Vpp).
The voltage boosting circuitry is
based around IC1, a MAX232 RS232
line driver and receiver IC. Of interest is the method that this chip uses
to generate the ±10V needed for the
RS232 interface.
Basically, internal switches combined with four external 1µF capacitors form two charge-pump voltage
circuits, one doubling the supply
(Vcc) voltage to +10V (nominal) and
the other inverting the result to obtain
-10V.
By adding diodes D2 & D3 and a
1µF capacitor to pin 4, we’ve extended
the capability of the chip to create a
voltage quadrupling circuit.
With the losses across the diodes,
as well as the loading imposed by the
RS232 drivers and the Vpp regulation
circuitry, the result at the cathode
of D3 is less than four times the Vcc
supply (around 15.6V). However,
this is more than adequate for our
purpose.
Zener diode ZD1 and its 1.5kΩ
series resistor form a shunt regulator,
ensuring a reliable 13V Vpp supply.
We’ve biased the zener with as little
current as possible to minimise load-
Fig.2: refer to this full-size overlay diagram when assembling the board.
Be careful not to install any of the diodes, electrolytic capacitors or ICs
in reverse. They must be oriented exactly as shown here.
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
No.
o 1
o 1
o 3
o 1
o 1
o 3
o 2
o 3
o 6
o 1
26 Silicon Chip
Value
1MΩ
100kΩ
47kΩ
15kΩ
10kΩ
4.7kΩ
1.5kΩ
1kΩ
470Ω
47Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black green brown
brown black yellow brown
yellow violet orange brown
brown green orange brown
brown black orange brown
yellow violet red brown
brown green red brown
brown black red brown
yellow violet brown brown
yellow violet black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black yellow brown
brown black black orange brown
yellow violet black red brown
brown green black red brown
brown black black red brown
yellow violet black brown brown
brown green black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
yellow violet black black brown
yellow violet black gold brown
siliconchip.com.au
ing on the MAX232. If the add-on
circuitry were to draw more than a
few mA, it would load down the converter circuitry, lowering the RS232
voltage levels below the specified
minimums.
During PIC programming and verification, the 13V (nominal) Vpp voltage
is switched through to the MCLR/Vpp
(C2) line of the card socket with the
aid of transistors Q1 & Q2 and their
associated bias resistors.
The Vpp enable signal originates
from the serial port TXD line. It is first
converted to logic (0-5V) levels by the
15kΩ & 100kΩ resistors and clamp
diodes D4 & D5. Next, it is inverted
by IC2f and inverted again by IC2b
before driving the base of switching
transistor Q2.
When Q2 switches on, it pulls Q1’s
base towards ground, turning it on
and thus switching Vpp through to the
card socket (via S1b). A 47kΩ resistor
from MCLR/Vpp to ground ensures
that the PIC is held in the reset state
when the Vpp supply is switched
off.
Note that the (newer) PIC16F87X
and PIC16F62X series micros used in
the Silver and Emerald cards do not
require high voltage for programming.
However, Microchip has retained
support for this programming method
to ensure backward compatibility.
Therefore, this project should be able
to successfully program the PICs in all
of these cards, given the appropriate
software.
Read/Write LED
LED1 indicates activity on the I/O
signal line. Due to the inversion of
data between Normal and PIC Programming modes, this LED will either
pulse dimly or appear to be mostly on,
with a perceptible flicker during data
exchange.
Power supply
When used as a free-standing unit,
a 2.5mm DC socket (CON2) accepts
power in the 9-12V DC range. This is
suitable for connection to a low-cost,
9V DC unregulated plugpack (positive
to centre pin).
For use with a laptop PC, the unit
can also be powered from a 9V battery.
The PC board will accept a pair of 1mm
pins for connection to the battery leads
(see Fig.3). Note that you’ll need to fit
an in-line switch, as the current drain
is quite high (about 35mA with the
siliconchip.com.au
The Smart Card Reader/Programmer board connects to a spare serial port on
your PC via a standard RS232 cable (D9 male to D9 female). Note that this
prototype includes both power sockets (only one normally required).
card inserted) and this would quickly
exhaust a PP3 battery.
When installed in a PC drive bay,
12V DC is sourced from the PC power
supply via CON3, which is a disk drive
power socket.
Regardless of the power source,
diode D1 provides reverse polarity
protection. A 500mA series fuse is
included for safety reasons and will
open only in the case of serious failure.
Following the fuse, a 100µF capacitor smooths the input before it is
applied to a conventional 3-terminal
regulator (REG1). All circuit elements
are powered from the regulator’s +5V
output. In addition, the regulator’s
inbuilt current limiting feature, which
comes into play at about 140mA, protects the board if a faulty smart card
is inserted.
Construction
All components mount on a single
PC board, measuring 141mm x 101mm
and coded 07107031. Referring to the
overlay diagram in Fig.3, begin by installing all 12 wire links using 0.7mm
tinned copper wire or similar.
Follow up with all the low-profile
components. Resistors first, then diodes (D1-D5, ZD1), transistors (Q1,
Q2), regulator (REG1) and capacitors.
Note that the diodes must be installed
July 2003 27
Silicon Chip
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Fig.4: to enable the serial/parallel port
driver, check the “Enable NT/2000/XP
Driver” box (see text). Note that this
option is disabled on Windows 9x/Me,
as the driver is not needed for these
versions of Windows.
These binders will protect your
copies of S ILICON CHIP. They
feature heavy-board covers & are
made from a dis
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Fig.5: this is what your hardware
settings should look like. You may
need to increase the I/O Delay slider
by a few points if you get the
occasional verify error but start off
with the default value of (6).
Or call (02) 9939 3295; or fax (02)
9939 2648 & quote your credit
card number.
Use this handy form
Enclosed is my cheque/money order for
$________ or please debit my
Visa Mastercard
Card No:
_________________________________
Card Expiry Date ____/____
Fig.6: the default values for IC-Prog’s
smart card settings. Not all cards
support the 6MHz clock rate, so select
the “3.58MHz” setting for maximum
reliability. Jumper JP2 on the PC
board should be set to agree with the
frequency selected here.
Signature ________________________
Name ____________________________
Address__________________________
__________________ P/code_______
28 Silicon Chip
with the cathode (banded) ends oriented as shown.
Orientation of the 10µF and 100µF
electrolytic capacitors is important
too. Their positive sides must be
Fig.7: if you can’t get PIC
programming mode to work, IC-Prog’s
“Hardware Check” feature might
help. Clicking in these boxes toggles
the indicated signal lines, providing a
very useful fault-finding aid.
Fig.8: make
sure that
there is a tick
against the
“Smartcard
(Phoenix)”
option on
the Settings
menu.
aligned as indicated by the “+” symbol
on the overlay.
The two crystals (X1, X2) can go
in next. They mount in a horizontal
fashion, so bend the leads at 90° (about
2mm from the body) before installation. After installation, connect the
crystal cans to ground by soldering
a short length of tinned copper wire
to the top of each can and to the pad
directly underneath (see photos).
Fit the connectors (CON1-CON4),
the two 3-way jumper headers (JP1 &
JP2) and mode switch (S1) next. Take
care to ensure that these components
are seated all the way down on the PC
board surface before soldering them.
Note that it is not necessary to install both CON2 and CON3. If you’ll
be mounting the finished project in a
PC, install CON3. If you’ll be using
it stand-alone, install CON2 instead.
Install the two fuse clips next. Note
that the small retaining lug on each
clip must be positioned to the outer
(fuse end) side, otherwise fuse installation will be impossible.
The three ICs (IC1-IC3) and the
two LEDs (LED1 & LED2) should be
installed last of all. The orientation of
these devices is very important. Align
the “notched” end of the ICs (the pin
1 end) as shown in Fig.3.
If you’re building a freestanding
unit, you can also install the LEDs
now. The flat (cathode) sides should
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.9: this shot was taken just before we hit the “Write
All” button. We’ve selected the correct type of PIC, loaded
the .HEX file and double-checked the configuration bits.
Note that if the CP (code protect) bit is enabled, it will be
impossible to read or verify the PIC after programming.
face the smart card socket. If you intend fitting the board in a PC or other
enclosure, it’s best to leave the LEDs
out until you’ve prepared the front
panel and can gauge the required
lead length.
Testing
It’s a good idea to apply power and
perform a few quick checks before
inserting a smart card, so let’s do that
next.
Plug in your chosen power source
and switch on. No smoke? Good! Set
your multimeter to read volts and
measure between pins 7 & 14 of both
IC2 and IC3. Your meter should read
about 5.0V in both cases.
For the remaining tests, connect the
negative probe of your meter to any
handy ground point (say, the anode of
D5 or one of the crystal cases). Now
measure pin 2 of IC1 with the positive
probe. The reading should be about
8.7V or more. Now move to pin 6 of
IC1 - expect at least -7.8V here.
Next, measure the cathode (banded)
end of D3. If all is well, there should
be 15.6V or more at this point. Finally, measure at the cathode of ZD1.
Assuming that the shunt regulator is
doing its job, the Vpp voltage will be
pretty close to 13.0V.
Housing
For a freestanding unit, all you need
do is fit four small self-adhesive rubber
feet to the underside of the board.
Alternatively, the board can be insiliconchip.com.au
Fig.10: once the PIC has been successfully programmed,
select the 24C16 device from the drop-down menu. The
card’s EEPROM should then be fully accessible.
stalled in a spare drive bay in your PC.
The preferred method is to first mount
the board in a 3.5-inch to 5.25-inch
plastic disk drive adapter and then fit
this into a spare 5.25-inch drive bay,
as shown in the photos.
If your power supply lacks a spare
drive power connector, you can purchase a “Y” cable splitter from most
computer outlets (eg. Jaycar Cat. PL0750).
The serial port cable can be routed
out through any convenient exit point
at the rear of the case for connection
to a free serial port.
We cut down an old 5.25-inch drive
blanking plate to fill the hole in the
front of the adapter. To save time and
effort, you could also use a piece of
much thinner plastic or even cardboard for the job. You can photocopy
the front panel label in Fig.12 and use
it as a template for the hole and slot
positions.
Installing the software
Being compatible with several
popular serial port-connected programmers, your new board will work
with much of the freely available card
software on the Internet. We’ve selected “IC-Prog” for our demo, primarily
because it runs on all recent versions
of Windows (Win9x/Me and Windows
NT/2000/XP) and also because it can
program both the PIC and EEPROM
in Gold cards.
You can obtain the latest version
of IC-Prog from www.ic-prog.com
Fig.11: this
message will
appear if IC-Prog
can’t talk to the
PIC. Assuming
that the PIC has
been successfully programmed (with
the correct loader), it probably means
that you haven’t switched modes. It
might also mean that the crystal
oscillator either isn’t oscillating or is
set to 6MHz when it should be
3.58MHz. Also, make sure that the
positions of JP1 and JP2 match the
complementary settings on the
“Smartcard” tab.
In all, you’ll need to download three
files: the application (icprog105a.zip),
the driver for Windows NT/2000/XP
(icprog_driver.zip) and the help file
(icprog.chm). Note that the filenames
will change over time as IC-Prog is
improved and updated.
Unlike most Windows applications, IC-Prog is not self-installing,
so you’ll need to manually create a
folder to contain the files. We named
ours “C:\IC-Prog”. It’s then just a
matter of unzipping the first two files
into the new directory, and creating
a shortcut on your desktop (or Start
menu) to “icprog.exe”. The help file
(icprog.chm) should also be saved in
this new folder.
Installing the port driver
For Windows NT/2000/XP users,
the serial/parallel port driver should
be installed as the next step.
Launch IC-Prog (ignore any error
messages) and from the main menu
select Settings -> Options. Click on
July 2003 29
This view shows how the PC board is fitted to a standard 3.5-inch to 5.25-inch
drive mounting kit. We cut down an old 5.25-inch drive blanking plate to fill the
hole in the front of the adapter.
the Misc tab and from the list of displayed options, click on the “Enable
NT/2000/XP Driver” check box (do
not change any other settings on this
tab!). Follow the prompts to restart
your machine so that the driver can
be installed and started.
Note: if the port driver is not properly installed, you will get a “Privileged Instruction” error whenever ICProg attempts to access the serial port.
Before use, IC-Prog must be set up to
suit the programming hardware. Let’s
do that next.
Setting up IC-Prog
From the main menu, select Settings
-> Hardware to bring up the “Hardware
Settings” dialog (see Fig.5). Choose “JDM
Programmer” as the programmer type
and “Direct I/O” as the interface method.
You should also select the COM port that
you’ll be using with the programmer. No
other settings in this dialog should be
changed (do not check any of the “invert
signal” options!) at this stage.
Next, select Settings -> Options
and click on the Smartcard tab. From
the drop-down list, select the appropriate COM port. If your card is set
for Smartmouse compatibility (JP1
pins 2-3 shorted), you should select
the “Invert Reset” option. From the
remaining settings, choose “Multimac
2.14”, “16F84” and “3.58MHz”. Now
click on the OK button to save the
settings and close the dialog.
Finally, select Settings -> Smartcard
(Phoenix). A tick should now appear
against this option in the Settings
menu, indicating that smart card
programming mode is enabled (see
Fig.8).
Programming the PIC
If you’re an old hand at card programming, then you’ll probably have
all the necessary files ready to go. In
this case, IC-Prog includes a “Card
Wizard” feature to enable you to program your card in short order. However, much more flexibility is afforded
if we bypass the Wizard and perform
each task individually.
For blank cards, the first task is to
program an operating system (OS) into
the PIC micro. This operating system
will then enable us to access the oncard EEPROM. This is often referred to
as “through-PIC programming”.
The operating system can be any
generic one that provides full EEPROM access over a Phoenix/Smartmouse-type interface. Various versions
are freely available on the Internet and
are often called “loaders”, after the fact
that they’re sole purpose is to “load”
the EEPROM.
Not all loaders are created equal.
Look for one in Intel HEX file format
(.hex or .h8) that is Multimac 2.14
(or later) compatible and targeted for
the 16F84. We downloaded our card
OS from www.maxking.com/ZIPS/
rb7hex.zip
To program the loader into the PIC,
select the appropriate PIC device from
the drop-down list on the main menu.
For Gold cards, choose the PIC16F84A.
Next, select File -> Open File and
navigate to wherever you unzipped
the loader. Double-click on the file to
open it, and the contents will appear
in the main IC-Prog window.
Before you “torch” your card, double-check that the micro configuration
bits (displayed on the right side of the
main window) are set correctly. The
oscillator type should always be set to
“XT” for smart cards. For the 16F84(A),
the WDT & PWRT bits should be disabled (not checked) unless the loader
documentation indicates otherwise.
It’s also unlikely that you’ll want the
CP (Code Protect) bit enabled.
Make sure that the programmer is in
PIC programming mode (switch out)
and that the power is on. Now insert a
blank card (contacts facing down and
towards the slot) into the programmer.
You should feel it slip all the way home
Fig.12: photo-copy
this diagram and
use it as a drilling
& cutting template
for the drive bay
blanking plate.
30 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
with a slight click and the “Card In
Place” LED should light. OK – hold
your breath and click on the “Program
All” button on the toolbar.
If all goes well, the PIC will be programmed and then verified successfully. If the verify fails, try erasing the
PIC (click on the “Erase All” button)
and re-run the programming.
Programming the EEPROM
Once PIC programming completes
successfully, switch the programmer
to Phoenix/Smartmouse (normal)
mode (switch in). Now select the appropriate EEPROM device from the
drop-down list on the main menu. For
Gold cards, this is the 24C16 device.
At this point, you can read and/or
write to the 24C16 EEPROM inside
the card. You can read the contents
and edit them directly in the IC-Prog
window, or load and write whatever
data file you desire to the EEPROM.
Note: to be able to access the oncard EEPROM, you must have enabled
IC-Prog’s smart card programming
mode, as described under “Setting up
IC-Prog” above.
Preventing card damage
The smartcard socket specified for
this project uses “landing contact”
technology. This means that the socket
contacts do not touch the contacts on
the card until it is almost fully inserted.
The advantage of this method is that
there is little possibility of power and
ground being momentarily connected
to the wrong set of pins, as might occur
with wiping contacts. It also results in
less card wear.
However, to further minimise the
possibility of damage to the electronic
circuitry, it’s important to follow a few
simple rules during use. First, before
inserting or removing a card, the programming software should be running
(but not reading or programming, of
course!). This is necessary to ensure
that the serial port is in a known state
and that all the control lines are properly initialised.
Second, do not switch modes when
reading or programming is under way.
If you find you’ve inadvertently left
the mode switch in the wrong position
before initiating a read or write, then
simply let it complete (no damage will
occur) before switching over.
Programming other cards
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sively with the Gold-type wafer cards.
However, this project is capable of
reading and programming most PICbased cards. It has been successfully
tested with the Emerald (PIC16F628
& 24LC64) and Silver (PIC16F877 &
24LC64) cards.
Both of these cards can be programmed with IC-Prog (don’t use
the Card Wizard function). However,
separate loader programs are required
for each of the cards, as the PIC16F84
version (used with the Gold card) will
not work with these newer devices.
We’re yet to find a source for PIC
16F628 & PIC16F877 loaders.
Note: this project will not work with
any Atmel-based cards, such as the
“Fun” card.
Now what?
Now that you can read and write a
smart card, what do you do with it?
We found several simple applications, including door access control,
identity card, time clocking and PC
security at www.maxking.co.uk You
can download these free of charge but
note that they are only demos and
some can be a little “buggy”!
If you can program in Visual Basic
or C/C++, then you’ll find a well-doc-
umented API DLL for Windows at
www.gis.co.uk/p75_dl.htm This
library gives full access to the Smart
mouse interface, considerably easing
the programming task.
Note that the site lists files for a
number of different card readers. This
project is compatible with the SM1RS232 model.
The files of interest are named “sm12dll.exe” and “usref3_0.pdf”.
More information
As usual, information on the ISO7816 smart card standard abounds on
the Internet. Point your browser to www.
google.com and search for “ISO7816”.
Microsoft and others are involved
in defining standards for smart cards
connected to PCs. Check out http://
msdn.microsoft.com/library/en-us/
dnscard/html/msdn_smart_card.asp
and www.pcscworkgroup.com for
details.
We’ve yet to find applications of
a non-commercial nature that have
exploited the full potential of these
useful little devices. Sadly, much of
the information on the Internet is related to card “hacking”. Perhaps you
could be one of the first enthusiasts to
SC
put them to real use!
Project Reprints – Limited Back Issues –Limited One-Shots
If you’re looking for a project from ELECTRONICS AUSTRALIA, you’ll find it at SILICON CHIP! We can now
offer reprints of all projects which have appeared in Electronics Australia, EAT, Electronics Today,
ETI or Radio, TV & Hobbies. First search the EA website indexes for the project you want and then
call, fax or email us with the details and your credit card details. Reprint cost is $8.80 per article
(ie, 2-part projects cost $17.60). SILICON CHIP subscribers receive a 10% discount.
We also have limited numbers of EA back issues and special publications. Call for details!
visit www.siliconchip.com.au or www.electronicsaustralia.com.au
July 2003 31
By JOHN CLARKE
Switch on your PC and your peripherals will
come on as well. Switch on your amplifier and
all your hifi gear will come on too. Switch on
your TV and the rest of your home theatre
system will power up as well. That’s the beauty
of this “PowerUp” unit.
32 Silicon
iliconCChip
hip
www.siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the PowerUp works by detecting
the current flow through the master
mains outlet and then switching power
to slave outlet.
Y
OU CAN ALSO USE PowerUp
in your workshop. Switch on
your router or bench saw and the vacuum cleaner will suck away the sawdust
straightaway. Doubtless there are other
applications to save you switching on
numerous other items of equipment
when you want to get straight into
work or play.
The PowerUp connects to the main
unit such as an amplifier and switches on power to the remaining units
whenever the main unit is switched
on. This saves having to power up the
other units separately.
PowerUp is a small box with two
mains outlets, one for the master
appliance and the other to run the
slave appliances. This second outlet
would provide power to a multi-way
power-board for the remaining appliances. When the master appliance is
switched on, the other appliances will
be powered up also.
PowerUp works by detecting the
current flow through the master mains
outlet and then switching power to
slave outlet. The general scheme is
shown in the block diagram of Fig.1.
The current detector is a toroidal coil
combined with a Hall effect device.
sistor and 1µF capacitor which rolls
off frequencies above 159Hz. The
filtered output is then AC-coupled to
pin 3 of op amp IC1a. Pin 3 is biased
at +5V via the 100kΩ resistor from
the +5V rail.
Op amp IC1a is set for a gain of 471
using the 470kΩ feedback resistor from
pin 1 to pin 2 and the series 1kΩ and
10µF capacitor to the +5V rail. The
10µF capacitor rolls off frequencies
below 16Hz. Frequencies above 154Hz
are rolled off by the 2.2nF capacitor
across the 470kΩ feedback resistor
between pins 1 & 2.
Op amp IC1b is wired as a precision
half-wave rectifier by virtue of diodes
D5 and D6 which are connected within
the feedback loop. The rectified signal
at D5’s anode is filtered with a 100kΩ
resistor and 10µF capacitor so that the
result is a DC voltage proportional to
the signal from the Hall sensor.
IC2a is half an LM393 dual comparator wired as a Schmitt trigger. It
monitors the filtered DC signal at pin
6 and compares it to the threshold
voltage at pin 5. Pin 5 is connected to
the 5V rail via a 4.7kΩ resistor and also
to trimpot VR1 across the 5V rail. A
1MΩ positive feedback resistor to pin
7 applies hysteresis.
Hysteresis means that the pin 5
voltage is at a different level, depending on whether the output at pin 7 is
high or low. When pin 7 is low, pin
5 is pulled a few millivolts lower via
the 1MΩ resistor and if pin 7 is high,
pin 5 is pulled a few millivolts higher.
Circuit description
The full circuit is shown in Fig.2.
Besides the Hall effect device, it uses
just two ICs and a relay. The Hall
sensor is placed in a slot (air gap) in a
toroidal core. The master outlet current flows through the toroidal coil and
generates a corresponding AC signal
from the Hall sensor (HS1).
Its output is filtered with a 1kΩ resiliconchip.com.au
This is the view inside the prototype. The toroidal coil on the PC board operates
at mains potential and is protected by a Prespahn insulation cover (see text).
July 2003 33
34 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: the complete circuit diagram. IC1a amplifies the signal from the Hall sensor and feeds it to precision rectifier stage IC1b. IC1b’s output is then fed to
Schmitt trigger stage IC2a which drives Q1 and the relay to switch in the slave GPO.
In this oscillogram, the top trace shows the Hall effect
signal when connected to a 60W mains load. This is
amplified to 8.9V peak-to-peak by IC1a (lower trace).
This ensures that small variations in
DC input voltage to pin 6 do not cause
the output to oscillate high and low.
Trimpot VR1 sets the trigger threshold for IC2a. This is normally set at
around mid-position. Setting it slightly towards the 5V supply will trigger
the Schmitt at small signal levels from
IC1, while setting it towards the 0V
rail will mean that the signal needs
to be greater before IC2a’s output will
go high.
When pin 7 of IC2a does go high, it
drives transistor Q1 to turn on relay
RLY1 which then applies 240VAC to
the slave GPO socket.
The 3.3V zener diode in Q1’s emitter to ground connection reduces the
voltage applied to the relay to around
12V rather than above 15V.
Power for the circuit comes from a
12.6V transformer. It drives a bridge
rectifier (D1-D4) and a 100µF capacitor
to provide about 16V DC. This supplies
IC2 and the relay. IC1 is powered from
+12V, derived using a series 820Ω
resistor and 12V zener diode (ZD1).
The Hall effect sensor is fed with 5V
from a 78L05 regulator (REG1) and this
also provides the input reference for
IC1a, IC1b and IC2a. IC2b is not used.
Mains power indication
Both GPO sockets have a neon indicator wired across them to indicate
when power is present. Neon 2, across
Active and Neutral for the slave GPO
outlet, lights when the relay contacts
are closed. The relay contacts are
shunted with a 1nF 3kV capacitor
which prevents contact arcing when
power is removed. The capacitor also
siliconchip.com.au
IC1a’s output (lower trace) is rectified by IC1b (top trace).
This rectified signal is filtered and fed to the Schmitt
trigger to control the relay.
allows a small amount of current to
flow when the relay is open and this
is sufficient to dimly light Neon 2 even
though it has two 1.2MΩ resistors
connected across it.
In practice though, this is not a
problem because Neon 2 lights quite
brightly when it should; ie, when power is available at the salve GPO socket.
Construction
The PowerUP circuit is built on PC
board measuring 79 x 140mm (coded
10107031). It is housed in a plastic
case measuring 165 x 85 x 55mm,
with two chassis-mount GPO (general
purpose) sockets on the lid.
Note that you must use a plastic
case for this project and there must
be no exposed metal parts that pass
through to the live wiring area inside.
DO NOT use a metal case for this
project – that would be too dangerous.
You can begin assembly by checking
the PC board against the published
pattern of Fig.6. There should not be
any shorts or breaks between tracks.
If there are, repair these as necessary.
Next, insert and solder the PC pins
and the resistors. Use Table 2 as a guide
to the colour codes for the resistors.
Note that the two 1.2MΩ resistors
must be high-voltage Philips VR25
types or equivalents. Do not substitute
for these.
Next, insert and solder in the zener
diodes, diodes and trimpot VR1, taking
care with the positioning of ZD1 and
ZD2. The ICs can be installed next,
taking care with their orientation. The
LM393 is placed adjacent to Q1.
When installing transistor Q1 and
the 78L05 regulator, take care that you
don’t get them confused; they look
the same!
The capacitors can be installed next.
Table 1 shows the codes on the MKT
and ceramic types. Make sure that the
leads of the 3kV ceramic capacitor
are covered with 5mm long insulating
WARNING: MAINS VOLTAGES!
Note that this circuit is connected to the 240VAC mains supply and
is potentially lethal. While most of the electronics circuitry is isolated
from the mains, it is possible that you could make contact with a live
part. In particular, note that inductor L1, the two 1.2MΩ resistors, the
1nF 3kV capacitor, the relay contacts and the Neon indicators all operate at 240VAC.
Do not apply power to this circuit unless it is fully enclosed in a plastic case and DO NOT TOUCH ANY PART OF THE CIRCUIT when it is
plugged into a mains outlet. Always remove the plug from the mains
before working on the circuit or making any adjustments.
Finally, do not build this project unless you are completely familiar
with mains wiring practices and techniques.
July 2003 35
BIND ALL MAINS WIRING TO
THE PC BOARD & TO THE MAINS
SOCKETS WITH CABLE TIES
WARNING: LETHAL VOLTAGES ARE PRESENT ON THE
PC BOARD (INCLUDING INDUCTOR L1)
Fig.3: follow this wiring diagram exactly to build the PowerUp. In particular, take care to ensure that all parts are
oriented correctly and that the mains wiring is installed in a professional manner.
sleeving, before inserting it into the
PC board.
The electrolytic capacitors must be
oriented with the polarity as shown,
except for the two non-polarised (NP)
types which can be mounted either
way around. The relay is mounted
next. We have provided for different
relays (as specified in the parts list).
Making the toroidal inductor
As noted above, the toroid inductor
36 Silicon Chip
(L1) is slotted to take the Hall sensor.
Cutting a 2mm slot in a ferrite toroid
is almost impossible because the
material is so brittle but the specified
powdered iron toroid is quite easy to
cut with a hacksaw.
Clamp the toroid lightly in a vice; if
you over-tighten the vice, it is likely
to crack the core. After you have cut
through one side of the toroid, you
will need to enlarge the slot to about
2mm with a small file. Just make it suf-
ficiently wide so that the Hall sensor
can easily slide into the slot.
Now wind 42 turns of 1mm diameter
enamelled copper wire onto the toroid
and strip the insulation from the wire
ends. That done, place this assembly
in position on the PC board with the
slot directly over the position for the
Hall sensor. Finally, solder the wires
in position and secure the inductor
with cable ties.
You can now insert and solder in
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List
Table 1: Capacitor Codes
Value
100nF
2.2nF
1nF
µF Code EIA Code IEC Code
0.1µF
100n
104
(.0022µF) 2n2
222
(.001µF) 1n0
102
the Hall sensor, taking care with its
orientation. The correct position is
with the sensor body centrally located
in the toroid slot.
Working on the case
The first step here is to drill out
and file the hole in the end of the case
for the cordgrip grommet. This hole
must be a tight fit to make sure that it
securely anchors the mains cord.
Next, mark out and drill the front
panel for the mains outlets, switch,
Neon indicators and fuse holder. The
cutting template for the GPO sockets
is shown in Fig.5. You can then fit the
front panel label (if available), the GPO
sockets, the Neon bezels, the switch
and the fuseholder.
Note that the fuseholder must be a
safety type, as specified in the parts
list. Do not use a standard fusehold-er.
The PC board can now be mounted
in position using the screws supplied
with the case. Once it’s in, you can
complete the wiring as shown in Fig.3.
Note that all mains wiring must be
run in 7.5A 250VAC-wire. The earth
connections are soldered or crimped
to the solder lugs using green/yellow
mains wire and secured to the transformer case using an M3 x 10mm metal
screw, nut and star washer.
Make sure the transformer case is
indeed earthed by measur
ing with
a multimeter for a low ohm reading
between earth and the transformer
metal body. It may be necessary to
scrape the lacquer coating off the
1 PC board, code 10107031, 79
x 140mm
1 plastic case, 165 x 85 x 55mm
(Altronics Cat. H-0306)
2 chassis-mount GPO sockets
(Altronics Cat. P-8241 or
equivalent)
1 12.6V 150mA mains transformer (Altronics Cat. M-2851L or
equivalent)
1 10A 250VAC SPST (or SPDT)
relay (Altronics Cat. S-4250A,
S-4170A or equivalent)
1 6A SPST 250VAC mini mains
rocker switch
2 250VAC Neon indicators (Altronics Cat. S-4016 or equivalent)
1 M205 panel-mount safety fuse
holder (F1) (Altronics Cat.
S-5992, Jaycar Cat. SZ-2028)
1 M205 10A fuse
1 7.5A mains cord and moulded
3-pin plug
1 ring type crimp lug for 1.52.5mm diameter wire
1 70 x 70 piece of Prespahn
insulating material
1 powdered iron toroidal core
33mm OD x 20 ID x 10mm
(Neosid 17-742-22; Jaycar
LO-1244; L1)
1 50kΩ horizontal trimpot (coded
503) (VR1)
2 M3 x 10mm screws
2 M3 nuts
2 3mm star washers
1 2m length of 1mm enamelled
copper wire
1 400mm length of 7.5A brown
250VAC-rated wire
1 400mm length of 7.5A blue
250VAC-rated wire
10 100mm long cable ties
10 PC stakes
1 80mm length of 3mm diameter
heatshrink sleeving for mains
to PC stake connections
1 40mm length of 6mm diameter
heatshrink sleeving for switch
terminals
1 100mm length of 13mm
diameter heatshrink sleeving for fuseholder and Neon
indicators
Semiconductors
1 LM358 dual op amp (IC1)
1 LM393 dual comparator (IC2)
1 UGN3503 Hall sensor (HS1)
1 78L05 3-terminal regulator
(REG1)
1 BC338 NPN transistor (Q1)
1 12V 1W zener diode (ZD1)
1 3.3V 1W zener diode (ZD2)
5 1N4004 1A diodes (D1-D4,D7)
2 1N914 diodes (D5,D6)
Capacitors
1 1000µF 25V electrolytic
3 10µF 16V electrolytic
1 10µF 50V NP (non-polarised)
electrolytic
1 1µF 16V electrolytic
1 1µF 50V NP (non-polarised)
electrolytic
2 100nF (0.1µF) MKT polyester
1 2.2nF (.0022µF) MKT
polyester
1 1nF (.001µF) 3kV ceramic
Resistors (1%, 0.25W)
2 1.2MΩ Philips VR25 (don’t substitute)
1 1MΩ
4 4.7kΩ
1 470kΩ
2 1kΩ
3 100kΩ
1 820Ω
2 10kΩ
Table 2: Resistor Colour Codes
o
No.
o 2
o 1
o 1
o 3
o 2
o 4
o 2
o 1
siliconchip.com.au
Value
1.2MΩ (VR25)
1MΩ
470kΩ
100kΩ
10kΩ
4.7kΩ
1kΩ
820Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown red green yellow
brown black green brown
yellow violet yellow brown
brown black yellow brown
brown black orange brown
yellow violet red brown
brown black red brown
grey red brown brown
5-Band Code (1%)
N/A
brown black black yellow brown
yellow violet black orange brown
brown black black orange brown
brown black black red brown
yellow violet black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
grey red black black brown
July 2003 37
Fig.4: this diagram shows how to make the
Prespahn insulation cover that fits over coil L1.
Fig.6: this full-size front-panel artwork can be used to
mark the mounting positions for the fuseholder and the
Power switch.
Specifications
Power level to switch slave GPO ............................. 1-25W adjustable
Maximum load (master and slave GPO)....... 6A or 1440W (set by S1)
Standby current........................................................................ 18.5mA
Fig.5: use this template to mark the
cutouts and mounting holes for the
two GPOs.
Fig.7: check your PC board against this full size etching pattern before installing any of the parts.
38 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Silicon Chip
Binders
REAL
VALUE
AT
$14.95
PLUS P
&
P
These binders will protect your
copies of S ILICON CHIP. They
feature heavy-board covers & are
made from a dis
tinctive 2-tone
green vinyl. They hold 12 issues &
will look great on your bookshelf.
H 80mm internal width
Use mains rated cable for all mains connections and bind the wires with cable
ties to prevent them coming adrift. Note that all exposed mains connections
should be covered with heatshrink tubing.
transformer mounting foot to allow a
good contact. Secure the other side of
the transformer using an M3 x 10mm
screw, star washer and nut.
Use heatshrink sleeving over any
bare terminals. You should also tie the
wires with cable ties to prevent them
breaking and coming loose from their
terminations. Make sure that the mains
cord is securely anchored to the case
with the cord grip grommet.
Covering inductor L1
Inductor L1 has 240VAC flowing
through it and to improve safety, this
is covered with a Prespahn cover folded from a 70 x 70mm square piece of
the material. Cut out 15mm squares
on each corner and fold down. Fig.4
shows the details.
The cover sits over the toroid inductor and its connections to the PC
board. This can be secured to the PC
board with some silicone sealant.
Adjusting VR1
Trimpot VR1 is initially set to the
midpoint. Once that’s done, fit the lid,
plug in the appliance to be used as the
master (computer, stereo amplifier or
whatever) and apply power.
siliconchip.com.au
Now turn on the master appliance.
If Neon 2 does not light, you will
need to disconnect the power and
adjust VR1 – ie, turn it clockwise by
a small amount. Note: this should be
done with the PowerUp’s power cord
disconnected from the mains wall
socket (see warning panel). You then
redo the test and repeat the procedure
again, as necessary.
VR1 is adjusted correctly when
Neon 2 is on when the master appliance is switched on and off when the
master appliance is switched off. If
the Neon is always alight, adjust VR1
further anticlockwise.
Troubleshooting
If the circuit does not work, switch
off power and unplug the unit from
the mains. Then check your work for
correct wiring and parts placement.
You can check the supply voltages
for each IC using mains-rated probes
on your multimeter but take care not
to touch any part of the circuit with
your hands. IC1 should have 12V
between pins 4 & 8, while IC2 should
have about 15V or 16V between pins
4 & 8. The output from REG1 should
SC
be 5V.
H SILICON CHIP logo printed in
gold-coloured lettering on spine
& cover
H Buy five and get them postage
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Price: $A14.95 plus $A10.00 p&p
per order. Available only in Aust.
Silicon Chip Publications
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July 2003 39
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
Faults in unfamiliar models
Fault-finding in an unfamiliar model can be
a real challenge, especially if you don’t have
a circuit diagram. And if someone else has
had a go at the set first, it can really make
life difficult.
“Where do I start?” – that’s often
a question I ask myself when faced
with an unusual fault or an unfamiliar
model, especially when there are few
obvious clues.
Normally, I try to find the likely
area and then proceed to concentrate
on that. For example, if there is no
line drive, I start by measuring the
voltage/waveform on the collector of
the horizontal driver transistor and
go from there, each time halving the
number of components to be tested.
Recently though, I’ve had a few cases which made this procedure futile
because the faults could have been
40 Silicon Chip
anywhere. I was therefore reduced to
probing various circuits in the hunt
for clues.
Samsung CB-564BV TV set
The first set I was faced with was
a 1999 Samsung CB-564BV, using an
S51A chassis. This set is somewhat
unusual as it employs a widescreen
53cm picture tube. However, it is not
a real 16:9 widescreen set – rather
it has an 11:8 ratio although the onscreen menu does offer 16:9 (but it is
overscanned). Apart from that, the set
had no special features.
The set had died after a thunder-
storm and the symptoms were that it
would pulsate every three seconds,
with no sound or picture. If allowed
to remain in this mode for a while,
you could actually see it trying to
give a blurred raster momentarily
before switching off. It was as though
someone was switching it on and then
immediately off with a remote control.
Unfortunately, I had to order a service manual in especially for this set
and even then I couldn’t get the right
model. What’s more, it didn’t arrive
until two weeks after I had started
the repair.
I began my investigations by measuring the output from the chopper
supply to find that all was OK. The
voltages were much as I had expected
and were similar to other Samsung
models I had seen. In particular, the
outputs I measured were at 130V, 16V
and 12V and these rails were all steady,
varying only with the load as the set
switched on and off. In addition, there
www.siliconchip.com.au
were healthy line pulses coming from
the horizontal output transistor (Q403)
and there was EHT.
These sets employ a complicated
arrangement of switchable IC regulators. These are IC803 (KA78R05, 4-pin)
and IC804 (KA7630, 10 pin) and they
deliver +5V and +8V rails respectively.
These regulators are also “tied up”
with the power-on, reset, disable and
protection circuits.
Having decided that the primary
power supplies were OK, I decided to
investigate how the set is switched on
and off normally. After all, it appeared
that the low voltage supplies were
being turned off, possibly because of
a fault condition elsewhere in the set.
As it turned out, the low-voltage
supplies are controlled by pin 18 of
microprocessor IC901 (Zilog 4202
SZM-503ATS). When this pin goes
high, the low-voltage IC regulators
turn on and supply 8V to pins 12 and
37 of the jungle IC (IC201, TDA8843).
And that was exactly what was happening except that something was
also switching it off almost immediately. LED LD901 (a combined LED)
was also flashing yellow every three
seconds too.
My next step was to disconnect the
remote receiver from pin 19 of IC901 in
case that was randomly switching the
set on and off. It wasn’t, so I checked
the EEPROM (IC902, K24
CO41) by
substitution but it too made no difference. I then found that the SCL and
SDA rails had digital noise on them
and were at +5V DC.
Next, I desoldered pin 18 of IC901
and applied 5V to the track leading to
it to see if the set would switch on and
stay on. My reasoning was that this
would at least tell me whether it was
the microprocessor control circuit that
was the cause of the problem.
The result surprised me – the set
came on and then went off and stayed
off until I switched it off and on with
the main switch.
And so, despite all this measuring
and testing, I still really wasn’t sure
where the fault might be. The service
manual arrived and wasn’t much help
either. It showed all sorts of circuits
I had hoped would help me, such
as x-ray protection, but in the end I
discovered these options hadn’t even
been fitted.
By now, it was beginning to look
as though I would have to order and
replace several large and expensive
www.siliconchip.com.au
ICs to confirm whether or not they
were working.
Finally, I solved the problem in a
rather roundabout way. As I said earlier, if you left the set on, you could get
a pulsating raster totally out of focus.
However, the FBT focus control made
no difference to it at all.
After examining this series of
events more closely, I came to the
conclusion that the picture was
projected up and reflected onto the
screen – ie, that the foggy picture I
was observing was due to reflections
within the picture tube. And that indicated that there may be a fault in the
vertical timebase that was triggering
an internal data fault signal.
I now concentrated on IC301 (LA
7845) and its seven pins. There was
+16V on pin 6 and -16V on pin 1 and
there was a nice sawtooth appearing in
pin 4 (VDM). However, the waveform
on pin 2, which goes to the deflection
yoke, was not correct. I was expecting
its DC voltage to be around 0V but instead I was getting nearly 16V, which
accounted for the raster not being on
the screen.
I also noticed that there was no sandcastle waveform from Q302’s collector
and I was getting even closer when I
discovered that there was no waveform
(VDP) to pin 5 of IC301. Because it was
easier, I spent some time measuring
and replacing components around
IC301 (especially C302) before moving
the scope probe to pin 46 of IC2301.
There was no signal coming out of this
pin, so I desoldered it and checked
it with an ohmmeter – it measured a
dead short to ground.
At last I had some sort of a clue
that a component was at least faulty
but was it enough to switch the set
off? I tried switching the set on again
with the pin disconnected but it still
pulsated.
However, as there was definitely
a fault on pin 46, IC201 (TDA8843)
needed to be replaced. The problem
was the cost – $67.65 trade plus an
Items Covered This Month
•
•
•
•
Samsung CB-564BV, S51A TV
set
Philips 25CE6270/10B TV set –
CP110 chassis.
Sony KV-20PS1 TV set
Philips 41 GR8840/75B projection TV set
ETA of 6-10 weeks delay! In the end
I was able to scrounge a secondhand
TDA8844 from a scrapped Philips TV
and fitted that.
And that, as they say, was that. After
refocussing, the raster was restored
permanently in the centre of the tube.
The lack of sound was due to it either
coming on in AV mode or muted
because there was no signal. I used a
similar remote from another set which
was enough to get into the OSD menus
and go through the setup options before
returning the set to the customer.
Philips TV set
The second story concerns a 1989
Philips 25CE6270/10B with a CP110
PZ1 chassis. Despite its age, I hadn’t
worked on this model before – probably because there aren’t too many of
them and they are all probably fully
imported from Belgium.
This set belonged to an elderly lady
pensioner who wasn’t too wealthy. She
complained that the set had previously
been taking some time to come on and
was now dead.
After examining it, I could see it
wasn’t due to dry joints and that fixing it was going to be expensive and
probably not worth it. However, she
definitely could not afford a new set
so I decided to give it a go.
Back at the workshop, I replaced the
failed parts, namely fuse F1652, bridge
July 2003 41
Serviceman’s Log – continued
rectifiers D6657 and D6658, chopper
transistor 7665 (BUT11AF), IC7669
(TEA1039) and resistors R3658 (120Ω)
and R3659 (100Ω). This restored the
sound and picture – but only just.
The fault now was that the set was
pulsating rapidly and the main 140V
rail was fluctuating wildly.
Once again, I wasn’t really sure
quite where to start. Was the fault in
the primary or secondary of the power
supply, or was it in the horizontal
output stages or even the east-west
circuit? Another possibility was that
it was in the microprocessor circuitry
as the set still didn’t always want to
start, leaving error messages in the
display.
I also noticed that the spark gaps
on the CRT board would occasionally
flash over at switch on. That left open
the possibility that it could even be the
tube that was faulty.
In the end, I decided that it was most
likely to still be in the power supply.
In particular, I suspected that it wasn’t
regulating properly.
I ordered a service manual and
meanwhile worked on what I could.
I started with the electrolytic capacitors on the secondary supply rails
(+25V, +140V, +32V, +15V, +12V, +9V
and +6V), replacing any that were
leaky (C2670 and C2621 were particu42 Silicon Chip
larly bad). I then substituted a
60W globe for the line output
load by disconnecting plug
R13 and connecting the globe
between pin 5 of this plug and
ground.
However, the 140V rail was
still unstable and varied a lot
with a 100W globe as the load.
It could, however, be adjusted
using VR3670, but it would not
remain steady.
When the service manual
arrived, I found some notes
on some modifications.
These involved removing C2657 from the
base of the chopper
transistor to ground
(live side), fitting a
39Ω resistor across
L5656 and changing
C2661 from 1500µF to
2200µF. These modifications
slightly improved the stability
of the 140V rail and encouraged me to
continue working in that area.
Next, I replaced the 7670 optocoupler (it is marked as a CNX62 on the
circuit but a CNX82A was fitted), followed by 6.2V zener diode ZD66676
which is on the feedback reference
line. However, these changes made
little difference.
What’s more, I was being continually frustrated with differences between
the circuit and the set itself. For
example, mine had an extra module
with an SCR (TR7000) fitted on the
15V rail.
At this stage, I noticed that the set
performed differently when it was
hot compared to when it was cold.
In particular, when TR7666 (BD337)
in the primary of the Self-Oscillating
Power Supply was hit with freezer,
there was a big change in the set’s
performance. I removed this transistor (which in reality was a BC337-25,
the “25” signifying a higher hfe) and
measured it very carefully. I could
find absolutely nothing wrong with
it – there was no detectable collector-emitter reverse leakage and its
hfe was 175, but I couldn’t see that
as being significant.
A new one measured 190 but I fitted
it anyway, not expecting much. Fortunately, for some unknown reason, I
was wrong; at last the set was stable
and I could adjust the 140V rail exactly. It looked as though all my problems
had come to an end, so I put the set
aside to soak test.
But that wasn’t the end of it – most
of the time, the pic
ture was fine
but just occasionally, the set would
bloom a bit when there were bright
objects in the picture. What’s more,
when the set was switched off, it
was not always starting up again –
particularly in the morning. This got
particularly bad when we had a bit
of damp weather.
To troubleshoot this problem, I
connected a meter to the 140V rail so
that it could be monitored while the
set was soak testing.
These symptoms continued randomly and sometimes it was very hard
to even start the set at all, although
the +140V rail was continuously
spot on. Occasionally, however, the
display gave an error number such as
F3 (IC7840 microprocessor) but this
varied.
What on earth was I missing? The
spark gaps on the CRT board now
arced nearly every time I switched
the set on and yet the EHT remained
constant.
Next, I measured the back-up battery and found that it was completely
dead. This component failure has been
enough to cause many strange faults
in Philips TVs but no such luck in
this case. By now, I was pretty well
satisfied that the power supply was
functioning correctly, so I decided to
spend some time investigating the line
output stages.
One possibility was that the insulation was breaking down and there was
a momentary excess of EHT, causing
the spark gaps to flash and the microprocessor to detect a failure. I followed
up a lot of stray dead end leads, such
as tuning capacitors and even the
picture tube before I decided to check
out the CRT earthing of the aquadag.
It didn’t seem possible there could be
anything wrong with this circuit, as
I could see clearly no less than two
leads going from the aquadag earth
strap to the CRT socket. However, my
ohmmeter could not read a path to the
chassis ground.
I didn’t panic here either because
Philips is one of the few manufacturers
that used to keep the CRT aquadag
at about 15V and use it as part of the
flyback beam limiting circuit, as in the
www.siliconchip.com.au
CP90 circuit diagram (remember the
K9, K11 series?). My next step then
was to examine the circuit to find out
what was happening.
Unfortunately, the circuit diagram
was a bit ambiguous when it came to
this vital bit of knowledge. The CRT
circuit clearly shows the aquadag
to be grounded but does not show
where. So where was the strap to the
chassis ground? There wasn’t one, so
I connected a crocodile clip from the
CRT earthing strap to the chassis metal
work. Bingo! – all the fault symptoms
immediately disappeared.
What had happened? I can’t be
100% sure but it turned out that
someone else had looked at the set
previously and hadn’t been able to fix
it. So I can only surmise that they took
the lead off and either lost it or forgot
to replace it.
I couldn’t find it in my heart to
charge the lady for all the time it took
to fix these faults.
Sony Profeel TV system
The Sony Profeel TV system was
a big step into the semi-professional
market, offering for the first time (in
1982) a component video system. It is
all of course ancient history now, and
most of it is now landfill.
For reasons that I refuse to go into, I
got conned into repairing a KV-20PS1
(using an HF SCC-428A-A chassis).
The fault was no colour and this is a
multi-system monitor with a complex
chroma B board. In the days when Arthur was a boy, the Sony PAL boards
were hard enough to troubleshoot but
here we are talking about an automatic
multi-system job!
Fortunately, the decoders are split
between SECAM and PAL/NTSC I
and II, with IC301 (PC1365C) being
mostly PAL.
Despite the writing being very small
and faint, I was blessed by having a
service manual you could die for these
days. The circuit detail was excellent,
showing waveforms, voltages and even
the block diagram inside the IC – all
in one diagram.
The first thing I was looking for
was the PAL colour killer so that I
could override it and see what sort of
colour – if any – was getting through.
This turned out to be RV309, which
fed pin 13 to the “ID killer” – 5.9V for
colour, 7.3V for monochrome. I marked
the position of the control and then
twiddled it but it had no effect.
www.siliconchip.com.au
I checked the voltage on pin 13 and
it never dropped below 8.7V. I then
checked the earthing for the control
circuit and also checked R324 (220kΩ)
but all was OK. I was about to suspect
the IC when I noticed another connection to pin 13. Following its tortuous
path, I got to R384 (100kΩ) and plug
B-2 (pin 41). Following the harness
further, I reached a small slide switch
(SW901) on customer control panel H
and marked “SECAM” and “AUTO”.
In the “AUTO” position, this lead
went nowhere but in the “SECAM”
position, it was connected to +12V
(B-2 pin 42). There was 8.7V on one
side of R384 and 12V on the other –
no matter what position the switch
was in! Disconnecting R384 restored
the colour and the voltage on pin 13
dropped to +5.9V.
Unfortunately, the slide switch is
located in an extremely inaccessible
place, beneath the picture tube. And
you could see from the scuff marks on
the front panel that this switch had
been used a lot and was pretty worn.
A replacement fixed the problem,
although cleaning the old one would
probably have been sufficient. Alternatively, if the client hadn’t been using
SECAM, it could have simply been
disconnected completely.
Philips projection TV
One morning, a young lady phoned
and asked if I would go to her mother’s house and repair her “telly” as
soon as possible. Naturally, I immediately asked for the brand and model
number of the TV but the somewhat
agitated woman was unable to give
me any further information except to
tell me that it was a very large flatscreen set.
“Is it a plasma set”, I asked. She
didn’t know, nor did she know how
old it was. She just wanted me to
fix it as soon as possible because her
mother was phoning her about it every
five minutes and giving her hell. It
appeared that television totally dominated her mother’s life.
I “rocked up” at her mother’s extremely expensive residence about 30
minutes hour later and was immediately impressed by its opulence and
breathtaking views. Yep, this would
have to be a plasma TV – they could
definitely afford it.
The entrance to the mansion was
on the top floor, next to a massive
garage, and was opened via a security system. Walking down a grand
marble staircase, I finally met a large
woman who turned out to be the anguished mother. She led me down to
the spacious TV room, where I was
extremely disappointed to find an
ancient projection TV set – a 1989
Philips 41 GR8840/75B using a G110PTV chassis.
The mother, who was Greek and had
only limited English, was extremely
friendly and was delighted that I
was at last going to fix her faulty TV
July 2003 43
Serviceman’s Log – continued
(“the TV – shea no work!”). I started
by checking that it was plugged into
a working power point and that the
aerial connection looked intact. I
then tried the remote – but nothing
happened so I tried the front-panel
controls and managed to switch it on
but could not determine what channel
it was on straight away.
Because the room had large windows with no curtains and it was a
bright day, it took some time before
I realised that there was a picture on
the screen. However, it was extremely
dim. “Mama”, it turned out, only wanted to watch her two Greek channels on
Foxtel but it was extremely difficult for
me to establish what these were from
her limited English.
After a few desperate calls to her
daughter, I eventually discovered
what they were (46 and 51) and tuned
them in on the set-top box by hand.
However, none of the remote controls
were working which seemed rather
strange. These included the Foxtel
remote, the Philips remote (for the
TV) and a Panasonic remote for the
VCR – none worked, not even with
brand new batteries.
After some more phone calls to the
daughter, it transpired that they were
all working the day before. This was
just too much of a coincidence.
Finally, the penny dropped when
she managed to tell me that “they
mussa work, I cleaned them this
morning”. Cleaned them? Well, actually it turned out she had washed
them by completely immersing them
in suds and water in the sink before
drying them.
OK, so it’s not the end of the world,
except that the Foxtel and Philips
remotes are manufactured with their
outer case shells glued together. And
that means that they are unserviceable
and have to be replaced.
I explained this as best I could and I
think she understood. I also said it was
time to buy a new “telivis” since the
old one delivered a very washed out
picture. However, she was so ecstatic
that her favourite Greek channels had
been restored that I don’t think she
really took this on-board.
She proffered a new $100 bill to pay
for the service call but I didn’t have
change and told her I would take a
cheque. She understood this part exactly and next we were climbing the
marble staircase to her garage. Inside
the garage, she opened the boot of her
immaculate Roll Royce, retrieved her
cheque book and proceeded to write
me one out!
It was all slightly bizarre and somewhat amusing. The faults with the projection TV were not insurmountable
but she really could probably afford
several plasma TVs.
The remote (RC5903/21) is cheap
enough to order in and the dull
picture is probably due to the heat
transference liquid in the projection
lenses. However, if you follow the
full procedure in the service manual
and order the coolant kit (4822 310
57233), you won’t get much change
out of $200 and it takes all day make
the change-over.
The TV coolant fluid is optical grade
(99.5% pure) 70% mono denatured
ethylene glycol and 30% glycerol/
glycerine and can be obtained
from the Internet or by email from
Silicon Chip Binders
Heavy board covers with mottled dark green
vinyl covering
Each binder holds up to 12 issues
SILICON CHIP logo printed in gold-coloured
lettering on spine & cover
Price: $A12.95 plus $A5.50 p&p each (Australia
only; not available elsewhere). Buy five and get
them postage free.
Just fill in & mail the handy order form in this issue;
or fax (02) 9979 6503; or ring (02) 9979 5644 &
quote your credit card number.
44 Silicon Chip
REAL
VALUE
AT
$12.95
PLUS P
&
P
sales<at>matelectronics.com for only
US$6.95 (Part No. RCA 212072-16) for
a 500ml (approx.) bottle! However the
freight is expensive (US$42.20).
I bought four bottles, though three
is more than enough and you might
get away with just two, which will
cost you $A128 landed in Sydney. If
you are careful – and care is the operative word throughout all this – you
really only need one bottle per CRT.
This stuff is not only poisonous and
toxic but is also corrosive. If you drop
some onto the PC board below you
will probably ruin the set forever, no
matter how hard you try to clean up
the mess afterwards!
So changing it is a bit of a challenge.
If you follow the service manual, you
will remove each CRT, disassemble
it, change the sealing coupler and
O-ring seal, etc, and then reassemble
it. You will then spend hours realigning them.
Alternatively, you can take obsessive care, do it in-situ, and raise the
corners of the cabinet until the face
of the CRT you are working on is
absolutely level. You then remove four
black 1/4-inch hex screws and take off
the lens assembly before unscrewing
four 5/16-inch nuts and removing the
C-lens (round concave cup lens) to
expose the fluid.
This fluid has to be removed completely – I use a large pipette to suck
it out and finally use a cloth to get the
last bit out. You will then find that the
front of the CRT is discoloured and
will have to clean and polish the tube
front with “Windex”. The amount of
“dirt” will vary from colour to colour.
The algae grow best (or worst) in the
blue and green tubes, while the red
tube is often not too bad.
When you are satisfied the cavity
is pristine clean, you can pour the
new coolant in, taking care to ensure
there are no bubbles. After that, you
have to reassemble the cleaned lenses
in the reverse order. And that’s it –
the difference in the picture will be
amazing.
Note, however, that if there is insufficient coolant, you will burn the
screen and replacement tubes are
extremely expensive. Fortunately, this
procedure is probably only needed
once during the set’s lifetime.
The other common failure in this
series of TV is the EHT splitter (4822
218 20809) besides, of course, all the
usual G110 chassis faults.
SC
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PRODUCT SHOWCASE
Save 33% on DSE 400VA UPS in July
For the month of July, Dick Smith
Electronics have a great offer on their
new 400VA Uninterruptible Power
Supply; at $88.84 it is one third off the
normal retail price of $184.00.
If your data or work is important
to you, then you will know just how
valuable a UPS can be. At 400VA, this
one is designed to give you enough
time to back up or save your work in
case of power failure.
When it detects a power failure, it
automatically switches over (typically
within 3ms) to provide power to the
system.
It gives you one minute at full load
(400VA) or up to six minutes at half
load – which should be plenty of time.
The other big advantage of running
a UPS with your computer system is
that it helps protect against power line
surges and spikes.
The UPS has an internal (replaceable) SLA battery which is kept trickle
charged while ever the device is turned
on. Recharge time is 8 hours after
complete discharge.
The M7650 UPS can also be used
with DSE’s “Commander Pro” software for scheduling system shutdowns, providing email warnings and
much more. This is a free download
(13MB) from the DSE or Tandy website.
It is available from all Dick Smith
Electronics and Tandy stores, DSE
PowerHouse stores or from the company's online store.
Contact:
Dick Smith Electronics Pty Ltd
2 Davidson St Chullora NSW 2190
Tel: (02) 9642 9100 Fax: (02) 9642 9111
Website: dse.com.au
New Satellite Book, Catalog from Av-Comm
Garry Cratt,
well known to
S ILICON C HIP
readers for his
satellite TV articles, has put
it all together in a new
(3rd) edition
of his popular “Practical
Guide to Satellite TV”.
With up-to-the-minute information
on this very popular and growing
activity (and business for many), the
book has been expanded to 150 pages.
It tells you what makes up a satellite
TV system, how to put it all together
and, most important of all, where
you’ll find signals.
It has a recommended retail price
of $39.00 + GST and is available from
Av-Comm Pty Ltd.
And speaking of Av-Comm, they
now have available their 2003 catalog.
Mambo 5-in-1 Multimedia Storage Device
EFx Systems, the Australian distributors for Mambo Digital, have
released the Mambo X P353SD 5-in-1
multi-function digital device which
can be used as a Digital Photo Image
Bank/Picture Album, a Digital Audio
Player, an MP3 Encoder/Recorder, an
MP3 Digital Voice Recorder and an active USB Portable External Hard Drive.
It has 20GB or 30GB storage capacity, SD/MMC (Secure Digital/Multimedia Card) memory slot and a fast USB
2.0 interface
The unit integrates Mambo Digital’s
EZ-Navigator user interface and Navi-Dial scroller with a 128 x 64 pixel LCD.
The 20GB model ($749 rrp) can store
www.siliconchip.com.au
up to 9000 songs of
CD quality or 700
hours of MP3
recording – but
EFx state that
the 130 x 98 x
27mm unit is not
just capable of storing
MP3, WMA or JPG files; it is capable
of storing files from just about any
application, in any format.
Contact:
EFx Systems
PO Box 1288, Burwood NSW 1805
Tel: (02) 9742 1900 Fax: (02) 9742 1928
Website: efx.com.au
It’s somewhat smaller
than previous issues
(A5 in size) but still
contains 38 pages of
all the good gear you’ll
need for your own Satellite TV Installation.
Contact:
Av-Comm Pty Ltd
PO Box 225, Brookvale NSW 2100
Tel: (02) 9939 4377 Fax: (02) 9939 4376
Website: avcomm.com.au
TOROIDAL POWER
TRANSFORMERS
Manufactured in Australia
Comprehensive data available
Harbuch Electronics Pty Ltd
9/40 Leighton Pl. HORNSBY 2077
Ph (02) 9476-5854 Fx (02) 9476-3231
July 2003 53
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Recycle your normal “throwaway” batteries
Many people don’t realise it but it is possible to recharge Alkaline batteries – often
up to 15 times.
So now, with this Universal 5-in-1 Battery
Charger from Farnell, you can save money and
get more life out of your batteries instead of
consigning them to landfill!
The recharger handles most batteries sizes
– AAAA, AAA, AA, C, D, 6V and 9V, and not
just in alkaline: it will also recharge alkaline
manganese (RAM), Titanium, NiCad and
NiMH cells. It is fully automatic – there are
no switches or buttons to press – and a
range of different sized batteries can be Contact:
recharged at the same time.
FarnellInOne
The charger is designed, engineered Tel: 1300 361 005 (NZ 0800 90 80 80)
and made in Australia.
Website: farnellinone.com.au
UK Low Cost Anti-Collision and Reversing Radar
A new vehicle radar system from
the UK is has the potential to make
sophisticated reversing and anti-collision safety aids an affordable accessory
for the mass market.
The CCL-Softcar radar safety system for vehicles uses lower frequency – and lower cost – components
than alternative radar reversing and
anti-collision technology. The ra-
dar’s field of view is also completely
programmable, allowing a system to
dynamically and intelligently adapt
as the vehicle’s steering wheels change
direction.
Contact:
Cambridge Consultants Ltd
Tel: 0011 44 1223 420024
Website: cambridgeconsultants.com
SAVE UP TO
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For applications requiring maximum intensity, TLMx2300 devices
built on Alln-GaP on GaAs technology are offered in ultra-bright
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Contact:
Vishay Intertechnology Asia Pte Ltd
Tel: 0011 65 6780 7812
Website: vishay.com
60%
Development Boards
New Car Battery
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Also available CAN Node Kit, Solar
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Huge Range of IC’s
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Atmel Programmers
and control boards
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Wide range of
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P89C51 Control
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$46
www.futur lec .com
Note: Prices shown on website are in US Dollars. Prices shown here are in Australian Dollars based on an exchange rate of 0.65
www.siliconchip.com.au
July 2003 55
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions from
readers are welcome and will be paid for at standard rates.
Infrared remote receiver
has four outputs
This circuit enables any infrared
(IR) remote control to control the
outputs of a 4017 decade counter.
It’s quite simple really and uses
a 3-terminal IR receiver (IRD1) to
pick up infrared signals from the
transmitter. IRD1’s output is then
coupled to NPN transistor Q1 via a
220nF capacitor.
Transistor Q1 functions as a common-emitter amplifier with a gain
of about 20, as set by the ratio of its
10kΩ collector resistor to its 470Ω
emitter resistor. Q1 in turn triggers
IC1, a 4047 monostable which in
turn clocks a 4017 decade counter
(IC2).
Basically, IC1 provides a clock
pulse to IC2 each time a remote
control button is pressed. If you
don’t wish to use all 10 outputs from
IC2, simply connect the first unused
output to pin 15 (MR).
In this case, only the first four
outputs (O0-O3) of the counter are
used and so the O4 output is connected to pin 15 to reset the counter
Wide-range
inductance meter
Looking for a wide-range inductance meter? This circuit can
measure inductors ranging in value
from a few microhenries (µH) up to
one Henry (1H).
NAND gate IC1a, crystal X1 and
their associated components form
a 2MHz oscillator. Its output is
divided down by BCD coun
ters
IC2-IC4 (4518) to produce six test
frequencies: 1MHz, 100kHz, 10kHz,
1kHz, 100Hz and 10Hz. These are
then fed to two 4066 quad bilateral
switches (IC6 & IC7).
As well as clocking IC2a, the
2MHz output from IC1a also clocks
56 Silicon Chip
on the fifth button press.
Power for the circuit is derived
from the mains via a transformer
and bridge rectifier which produces about 15-27V DC. This is then
fed to 3-terminal regulators REG1
& REG2 to derive +12V and +5V
supply rails.
Fred Edwards,
Ardross, WA. ($35)
decade counter IC5 (4017). When
a range select button is pressed,
IC5’s corresponding output (O0O5) quickly goes high. This output
in turn activates its corresponding
bilateral switch to switch through
the selected test frequency.
Parallel NAND gates IC1c & IC1d
buffer this test frequency which is
then fed via S1a and an 8.2Ω resistor to the gate of Mosfet Q1. As a
result, when S1 is in the “MEAS”
position, Q1 turns on and off at the
test frequency and current pulses
flow through the test inductor (via
S1b and a 1kΩ series resistor).
Each time the current switches
off, a back-EMF voltage is generated by the inductor. This voltage
is then rectified and applied to a
100µA meter via VR1 and D7 (a
BAT42 high-speed Schottky diode).
Because back-EMF is proportional
to inductance, the meter can be calibrated against a known inductance
by adjusting VR1 until the correct
reading is obtained. The remaining ranges are then automatically
calibrated.
Finally, the test inductor can be
checked for continuity be switching S1 to the “CONT” position.
Provided the coil is OK, this turns
on transistor Q1 and allows current
to flow via a 4.7kΩ resistor to light
LED1.
Gregory Freeman,
Mount Barker, SA. ($50)
www.siliconchip.com.au
www.siliconchip.com.au
July 2003 57
Circuit Notebook – continued
Simple circuit charges
up to 12 NiCds
This handy circuit can be used to
charge from one to 12 NiCd cells from
a car battery. Up to six cells can be
charged with switch S1 in the “normal” position. The LM317regulator
operates as a simple current source,
providing about 530mA when R1 =
2.35Ω (two 4.7Ω resistors in parallel).
For more than six cells, S1 is set
to the “boost” position. This applies
powers to IC1, a 10W (or 20W) audio
power amplifier. Positive feedback
from its output (pin 4) to non-inverting input (pin 1) causes IC1 to act as
a square wave oscillator. This square
wave signal is coupled to the junction
of Schottky diodes D1 and D2 via a
330µF capacitor, forming a conventional charge-pump voltage doubler.
Over 20V (unloaded) appears at the
input to REG1 – enough to charge a
maximum of 12 cells!
SILICON CHIP.
Simple knock alarm
with piezo sensor
This circuit uses a thin piezoelectric sensor to sense the vibrations
generated by knocking on a surface;
eg, a door or table. Basically, it amplifies and processes the signal from
the sensor and sounds an alarm for
a preset period.
In operation, the piezoelectric
sensor converts mechanical vibration into an electrical signal. This
sensor can be attached to a door, a
cash box, cupboard, etc using adhe58 Silicon Chip
sive. A 1-1.5m long shielded cable
can then be connected between
the sensor plate and the input of
the circuit.
The signal generated by the
sensor is amplified by transistors
Q1-Q3 which are wired as common-emitter amplifiers. The signal
is then rectified by diode D1 and
amplified by transistors Q4-Q6.
As shown, the output from Q6’s
collector is fed to pin 4 (reset) of
555 timer IC1. This is wired as an
astable multivibrator. Each time Q6
turns on, its collector goes high and
IC1 activates and produces an alarm
tone in the speaker.
The alarm automatically turns off
10s after knocking ceases – ie, the
time taken for the 22µF capacitor on
Q4’s emitter to discharge.
Finally, note that it may be necessary to adjust the 470Ω resistor
in Q6’s collector circuit to ensure
that IC1 remains off in the absence
of any perceptible knock. A value
somewhere bet
w een 220Ω and
680Ω should be suitable.
Raj. K. Gorkhali,
Kathmandu, Nepal.
www.siliconchip.com.au
Gym agility: a simple
strategy game
This simple circuit is a two-person game of strategy and speed –
and potentially, agility and athletic
fitness.
Each player has a row of four
LEDs before him/her. Beside each
LED, there is a pushbutton which,
when pressed, lights up the corresponding LED. The aim of the game
is for a player to illuminate all four
of their LEDs in a row, in which case
the circuit declares a winner.
However, there is a catch. As soon
as you light one of your own LEDs,
the other player’s corresponding
LED goes out – and vice versa. The
game begins by giving each player
two illuminated LEDs.
Consider now that this game is
scaled up and used in a gym. If
the LEDs in the circuit are directly
replaced with N-channel power
MOSFETs, then 12V globes can be
illuminated (a MOSFET’s gate is
wired in place of a LED’s anode,
the source goes to negative, and the
load is wired between the drain and
positive).
If four large pushbuttons are
mounted on one wall and four on
another, this could become a game
of agility – if not a physical tussle
to keep the other player away from
critical pushbuttons.
Here’s how the circuit works:
Schmitt NAND gate IC1a and IC1b
(4093) form a simple bistable latch.
When one output (pin 3) goes
“high”, the other output (pin 4)
goes “low” and vice versa. The main
advantage of using a bistable latch
(as opposed to a flipflop) is that it
does not suffer from switch bounce.
Four such bistable latches are fed
to inputs A-D of IC2. However, for
the sake of simplicity, only one of
these is shown; ie, IC1a-IC1b.
We now need to identify when
all four bistable latches go either
“high” or “low”. This is done using
IC2, a 4067 16-channel multiplexer. When inputs A-D are all “low”
(binary 0000), this opens decimal
channel 0. Conversely, when all
are “high” (binary 1111), this opens
decimal channel 15. Channels 0 and
15 thus trigger a win for one side or
the other, by taking pins 9 or 16 of
IC2 “low”.
Finally, if the game is quite
hectic, a win might only last for a
fraction of a second before it is lost
again. Therefore, IC1c and IC1d
are wired as timers, which do not
permit any further play until a win
has been reported for one or two
seconds – either via LED3 or LED4.
During this time, however, the players’ buttons may be pressed to reset
the game to two LEDs all.
Thomas Scarborough,
Capetown, South Africa. ($35)
Adding a 100V line transformer to the SC480 amplifier
This circuit shows how to use the SILICON CHIP SC480
amplifier module to drive a 100V line transformer for PA work.
The output of the amplifier directly drives the primary of the
transformer, with the secondary then providing the 100V line
output. Diodes D1 & D2 are included to protect the transistor
output stage against back-EMF spikes which can be generat
ed by the transformer if the amplifier is driven into clipping.
Note: the specified Altronics 100V line transformer has a
primary DC resistance of 4Ω which lets it work satisfactorily
with the amplifier’s likely DC output offset of around ±30mV.
The SC480 cannot be used with any line output transformer
which has a primary resistance of less than 1Ω.
SILICON CHIP.
www.siliconchip.com.au
July 2003 59
By JIM ROWE
Want to use an external flash unit with
your new hi-res digital or film camera but it
doesn’t have a trigger socket or “hot shoe”?
Cheer up, this new slave flash trigger will
let you do it and it will cope with those
cameras which only work in multiple-flash
“red-eye reduction” mode. You can build it
for a fraction of the cost of similar “smart”
trigger units, too.
M
OST OF THE LATEST digital
still and film cameras have a
built-in electronic flash, which at first
glance seems great. The trouble is that
it’s almost impossible to take a good
professional photo with only a single
flash. They’re OK for “happy snaps”
but that fixed flash, right next to the
lens and pointing in the same direction
is a big problem. It gives very “flat”
lighting and very dark shadows.
For much better modelling and
control of shadows, you really need
at least one additional source of light
and/or a system of light diffusion. But
60 Silicon Chip
neither of these options is easy with
most digital cameras, not only because
of their fixed forward-facing internal
flash but because they generally don’t
have a “hot shoe” or conventional flash
contact socket to trigger an external
flash.
So the only way to trigger a second
flash with these cameras is to use a
slave flash trigger unit. This has an
optical sensor which detects when the
camera’s own flash operates, to trigger
an external “slave” flash.
But there is a further complication
with many new digital cameras. Their
internal flash often operates only in
“red-eye reduction” mode, where the
flash gives not just one single pulse
of light but multiple flashes. There
may be one, two or even a bunch of
short pre-flashes shortly before the
main flash.
This is done so that when you’re
taking portraits, the irises in your
subjects’ eyes are made to “stop down”
before the main flash. This reduces the
reflection of light from their retinas
(the cause of that annoying red-eye
effect).
It’s nice that the camera makers do
provide this feature to minimise the
red-eye effect. But if you can’t turn
off red-eye reduction, it makes it impossible to use a conventional slave
flash trigger. That’s because the first
pre-flash will trigger the slave flash
unit, long before the camera takes the
actual shot!
What’s needed is a “smart” slave
flash trigger unit which can ignore
the red-eye reduction pre-flashes and
only trigger the external flash when
the camera’s main flash occurs. That
is exactly what this new trigger unit
is designed to do.
This compact, low-cost unit counts
up the camera flash pulses and only
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the camera flash is picked up by photodiode PD1 and this drives transistor Q1 which in turn clocks IC1. IC1
is wired as a programmable counter and the output of gate IC2c (pin 10) will go low only when the right number of
pulses have been counted. IC2c then triggers SCR1 (via IC2b & Q2) to trigger the slave flash unit.
triggers an external flash unit when the
last flash is detected. It operates from
a standard 9V battery and everything
fits in one of the smallest jiffy boxes
(UB5 size).
How it works
At first sight, the circuit of Fig.1
may look a little complex but there is
not a lot to it.
PD1 is the photodiode which senses
the camera flashes. For PD1 we’re using either a BP104 or a Z-1956 (DSE)
device. Actually these both have an
inbuilt IR (infrared) filter but they still
have more than adequate response to
visible light to do the job here.
PD1 is connected in series with a
47kΩ load resistor across the 9V supply, as a reverse-biased light detector.
To make the sensor insensitive to
ambient lighting levels, we AC-couple
its output to the base of transistor Q1
via a 4.7nF capacitor. As the base is
pulled to ground via a 10kΩ resistor,
Q1 is normally off; it only conducts
briefly when the photodiode detects
a flash of light. But during that time
Q1 is switched on fully, so that a negative-going pulse of very close to 9V
siliconchip.com.au
peak appears at its collector.
In other words, the combination of
PD1, Q1 and the associated surrounding components forms a sensitive
light-to-voltage pulse converter.
The pulses from Q1’s collector are
fed directly to the clock input of IC1,
a 4024 binary counter which is connected as a programmable counter. To
make IC1 programmable, we’ve added
logic circuitry involving DIL switches
S4-S8, diodes D1-D5 and gates IC2c
& IC2d. The two gates are part of IC2,
a 4093 quad Schmitt NAND device.
Programmable counter
The programmable counter works as
follows. The cathodes of diodes D1-D5
are each connected to one of the five
counter outputs O0-O4 via one of the
DIL switches. The anodes of all five
diodes are connected together and to
+9V via a 10kΩ pull-up resistor.
This diode arrangement functions
as a five-input AND gate, because the
output (the junction of the five diode
anodes and the 10kΩ resistor) can only
be pulled up to +9V (logic high) when
all five diode cathodes are also at logic
high. If any diode cathode is pulled
low, it pulls the output low as well.
So if we close switches S4 and S5,
this means that the gate output can
only go high when IC1 has counted
three pulses (so that its outputs O0
and O1 both go high). We can therefore
program the counter for any desired
pulse count, simply by setting the DIL
switches for the binary equivalent of
that number. The switches can be set
for a total pulse count between 1 and
31 – more than enough for our needs.
The output of the diode AND gate is
connected to pin 8 of IC2c, used here
as an inverter. And IC2c’s output (pin
10) is connected to pin 12 of IC2d,
which is again used as an inverter. Pin
11 of IC2d is connected to the master
reset input (pin 2) of counter IC1 via
a small RC delay circuit (series 10kΩ
resistor and 10nF bypass capacitor).
This means that shortly after the programmed count is reached, the counter
is reset, ready for the next sequence
of flashes.
By the way, the 100kΩ resistor and
100nF capacitor connect
ed to the
second input of IC2d (pin 13) form
a simple power-up reset circuit, to
ensure that the counter is reset to zero
July 2003 61
about 4mA from the 9V battery, which
should therefore give a very long service life.
Construction
As can be seen from the photos, all
of the slave flash trigger’s circuitry fits
on a small PC board which measures
76 x 45mm and is coded 13107031.
The board has cutouts in each corner
so it fits snugly inside a standard UB5size plastic jiffy box, with the battery
underneath.
Programming switches S4-S8 and
power switch S1 are actually all part
of an 8-way DIL switch, making it
cheap and compact. This is mounted
in the centre of the board. The leftmost
switch is the power switch (S1), while
the five nearest the righthand end are
used for programming (S4-S8). The
two remaining switches (S2 & S3) are
not used.
Photodiode PD1 is mounted at the
top of the board. If a BP104 diode is
used, a pair of PC board terminal pins
are fitted in this position and the diode’s very short leads soldered to the
pins so that the top surface of the diode
is 6mm above the board.
On the other hand, if you use a
Z-1956 diode from Dick Smith Electronics, this has fairly long leads
which can be soldered directly to the
PC board pads. However in this case
the leads also have to be bent by 90
degrees and cranked so that the diode’s
sensitive side is facing upward (again
6mm above the board) and directly
above the two connection pads.
The complete PC board assembly
is mounted behind the lid of the jiffy
box, using four M3 tapped Nylon
spacers 6.3mm long. The spacers are
Fig.2: here’s how to install the parts on the PC board. Note that the
100µF capacitor must be mounted on its side, while transistors Q1-Q3
must all be bent over so that they sit close to the board surface (see
text). The full-size etching pattern for the PC board is at right.
when power is first turned on.
Summarising the action so far, we
now have a light pulse sensor and
counter which can be programmed
using the DIL switches so that the
output of IC2c (pin 10) will go low
only when the right number of pulses
have been counted. It also goes low
only briefly (about 75µs), because of
the way the counter is then quickly
reset via IC2d.
This narrow pulse from IC2c is used
to trigger the slave flash. It is inverted
by IC2b which drives transistor Q2.
The resulting narrow pulse at the
emitter of Q2 is then used to switch
on SCR1, which acts as the triggering
“contacts” for our slave flash unit.
SCR1 is a 400V-rated C106D silicon-controlled rectifier, which is
connected to the slave flash trigger
input via the bridge formed by diodes
D6-D9. The bridge ensures that the
voltage applied across SCR1 from the
flash unit is always of the right polarity
(ie, positive to the anode), regardless
of the circuitry inside your flash unit.
So that’s how the main part of the
trigger circuitry works. The only part
left to explain is the purpose of gate
IC2a, transistor Q3 and LED1. These
provide a simple power-on indicator,
as well as indicating that the counter
circuit is reset and ready for the next
flash pulse sequence.
Gate IC2a is again connected as
a simple inverter, so that when the
counter is reset and waiting for pulses,
output pin 3 is held low (because pins
10, 2, 1 and 12 are high). This turns
on PNP transistor Q3, which allows
a low current (about 3.5mA) to pass
through LED1. The LED therefore
glows weakly, showing both that the
power is turned on and that the counter has been correctly reset. The LED
goes out for the duration of the slave
flash trigger pulse but it comes back
on again as soon as the counter resets.
The complete circuit draws only
Table 2: Capacitor Codes
Value
100nF
10nF
4.7nF
µF Code EIA Code IEC Code
0.1µF
100n
104
(.01µF) 10n
103
(.0047µF) 4n7
472
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
No.
1
1
6
2
62 Silicon Chip
Value
100kΩ
47kΩ
10kΩ
2.2kΩ
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black yellow brown
yellow violet orange brown
brown black orange brown
red red red brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black orange brown
yellow violet black red brown
brown black black red brown
red red black brown brown
siliconchip.com.au
This is the fully-assembled PC board, ready for mounting inside the case. The
DIP switch sets the number of flashes from the main flash unit before the slave is
triggered (see text).
attached to the lid using four 6mm x
M3 machine screws with countersink
heads, while the board is fitted to the
spacers using four round head 6mm x
M3 machine screws with lock washers.
The lid has a central rectangular
cutout to allow easy access to the
switches and small circular holes
top and bottom – one to allow light
to reach PD1 and the other to allow
LED1 to protrude through and be seen.
The board mounting details should be
fairly clear from Fig.3.
By mounting the board assembly
only 6.3mm behind the box lid, we
provide just enough room inside the
box to fit the 9V battery – plus a sheet
of thin plastic to ensure that the battery
case can’t short out any of the board
wiring.
Assembling the board
The location of all of the parts on the
PC board is shown in Fig.2. Note that
because the board must be mounted
only 6.3mm behind the case lid, some
of the taller parts have to bent over so
that they fit into this space.
We suggest you begin assembling
the board by fitting the PC board terminal pins. There are two on the left side
of the board for battery connections
and another two on the right for the
flash trigger output lead connections.
If you are using a BP104 for PD1,
you’ll also need two more pins at the
top centre. If the tops of all four/six
pins are longer than 6.3mm, cut them
so that they are only about 5mm long.
Now you can fit the resistors, which
all mount flat down against the board.
This is also the case with the diodes,
which all mount with their cathode
ends towards the top the board.
The capacitors can all be fitted next.
Note that the 100µF electro mounts on
its side as shown and make sure you
get the polarity right.
Next, fit the SCR. It mounts with its
“metal insert” face down against the
board. All three leads are bent down at
90° at a distance of 5mm from the body,
so they pass through the board holes.
The device itself is held down using
a 6mm x M3 machine screw and nut.
IC1 and IC2 can be fitted next, taking care to fit them the correct way
around. Observe the usual precautions
to avoid damage due to static charge,
too – remember that both devices are
CMOS types.
Now fit the three transistors. These
all have to be mounted leaning over
so they will allow the board assembly
to be fitted only 6.3mm behind the
case lid.
For the two PN100 devices, this is
achieved by carefully bending their
three leads so the centre base lead is
about 3mm shorter than the other two
when they are passed down through
the board holes. In other words these
transistors have their leads bent so
they are mounted leaning back, with
the short base lead underneath and
the two longer leads bending down
at about 60°.
There isn’t space to mount the
PN200 transistor Q3 in this way,
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July 2003 63
Fig.3: the PC board is attached to the lid of the case on 6.3mm spacers
and secured using machine screws, nuts and washers. Also shown
here is the mounting detail for the Z-1956 photodiode (see text).
6mm above the board.
Remember that the Z-1956 should
be fitted so that its cathode lead is
furthest from Q1. The way to identify
this lead with the Z-1956 diode is by
noting that it’s on the same side of the
device as the small top bevel. All these
component mounting details should
be apparent from Fig.2 and Fig.3.
With the photodiode fitted, only two
steps remain to complete the PC board
assembly. One is to fit the 3mm Ready
LED, making sure that the longer anode lead is nearest to the 2.2kΩ series
resistor and the “flat” side of the body
is towards the 10kΩ resistor. Also take
care that you solder the leads with the
LED and its leads truly vertical, and
with the bottom of the LED’s body just
5mm above the board.
The final step is to connect the 9V
battery clip lead, the wires of which
connect to the PC board terminal pins
over on the lefthand side. Note that
the red wire connects to the lower
pin (ie, the one nearer the two 100nF
capacitors), while the black wire
connects to the upper pin (nearer the
100µF electro).
Preparing the case
The close-up view shows the completed assembly, just before it is fitted to the
case. The flash trigger lead emerges through a small semicircular notch near
the top centre of one side of the jiffy box.
because it’s quite close to one of the
Nylon mounting spacers. So Q3 has
all three leads bent at 90° towards
the emitter side, so it can be mounted
“side on” with its body between IC2
and the 100kΩ resistor. The flat side of
the body is towards the 100kΩ resistor,
with the emitter lead lowest and the
collector lead uppermost.
The 8-way DIL switch is fitted next,
taking care to fit it with the ‘ON’ side
of the switches towards IC1. Also
make sure when you’re soldering its
pins to the board pads that you don’t
accidentally link the pads with fine
solder bridges.
Now fit photodiode PD1. If you’re
using a BP104 device, you need the
extra two PC board pins, as noted
above. Cut off both pins at a point 3mm
above the board. Then very carefully
bend the leads of the BP104 down at
right angles about 1mm from the body
64 Silicon Chip
and solder them to the PC board pins.
The flat top of the diode should be
horizontal and just 6mm above the top
of the board. Make sure you solder the
diode’s cathode lead (the one with the
small side tag) to the pin furthest from
transistor Q1.
The procedure is a bit different if
you are using the Z-1956 photodiode
from DSE. This doesn’t need the PC
board pins, but it does need both of
its leads first bent down at 90° (ie,
away from the sensitive front face), at
about 2mm from the body. Then they
are bent inwards by a further 90°, at
a point only about 2mm behind the
diode’s rear face, and finally outwards
again at a point 3mm from the top of
the body. This allows the diode to be
mounted with its leads passing down
through the two inner holes on the
board, with its sensitive front face
uppermost and horizontal, and again
Your board assembly should now
be complete, and you can put it aside
while you prepare the box lid. If you’re
building the project from scratch,
this will involve drilling and cutting
the required holes using the drilling
template of Fig.4 as a guide.
Note that the four 3mm holes for
the board mounting spacer screws are
countersunk at the top, so that the tops
of the screws will be flush with the
lid’s upper surface. This allows them
to be hidden beneath a stick-on front
panel if one is used.
Once the lid is prepared, you can
attach the four 6.3mm tapped Nylon
spacers to it using four 6mm x M3
countersink-head machine screws
plus four M3 flat washers (see Fig.3).
Then you should be able to mount the
PC board assembly on the four spacers
in turn, using four 6mm x M3 roundhead screws and lockwashers.
There’s only one remaining step
before you can test the trigger unit
and finish its assembly. This is to fit a
suitable output lead, to connect to the
external flash unit it will be triggering.
The main requirement here is that this
lead will need to be fitted at the far
end with a connector to suit the trigger
input of the flash unit.
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List
1 PC board, code 13107031, 45
x 76mm
1 Jiffy box, UB5 size (83 x 54 x
28mm)
1 8-way DIL switch (S1, S4-S8)
1 9V alkaline battery, 916/PP3
type
1 battery clip lead to suit
6 PC board terminal pins
4 6.3mm M3 tapped spacers
(Nylon)
4 6mm x M3 screws, countersink
head
4 6mm x M3 screws, round head
1 6mm x M3 machine screw &
M3 nut
4 M3 flat washers
1 flash trigger lead with
connector
Semiconductors
1 4024 binary counter (IC1)
1 4093 quad Schmitt NAND
(IC2)
1 C106D 400V SCR (SCR1)
2 PN100 NPN transistors
(Q1,Q2)
1 PN200 PNP transistor (Q3)
1 BP104 or Z-1956 photodiode
(PD1)
1 3mm green LED (LED1)
5 1N4148 diodes (D1-D5)
4 1N4004 diodes (D6-D9)
The 9V battery sits in the bottom of the case and is wedged in position using
pieces of foam. A sheet of plastic is then fitted over the top of the battery, to
prevent it shorting against the bottom of the PC board.
If the flash unit has a conventional
3mm concentric connector, your best
approach is probably to buy a short
flash exten
sion lead from a photographic store and cut off the unwanted
connector so the wires at the free end
can be soldered to the output pins on
the trigger unit board.
On the other hand, if your flash unit
is only fitted with a “hot foot” connector, you will have to either salvage a
matching “hot shoe” connector from
a junked camera or make one yourself. This could be done with some
pieces of blank PC board laminate or
some 1mm sheet brass and a piece of
insulating material. That done, the hot
shoe connections can be wired to the
trigger unit’s output pins with a length
of shielded audio cable.
Checkout time
Ready to roll? Make sure that all the
siliconchip.com.au
DIP switches are set to Off (down) and
connect a 9V battery to the clip lead.
That done, switch on S1, set timing
switch S4 to On (leave S5-S8 Off) and
check that the green Ready LED lights.
Now connect your slave flash unit to
the trigger unit’s output lead and turn
on its own power switch so the flash
capacitor becomes charged and ready
for action. Also get your camera ready
and set it for flash operation.
To check out the trigger unit’s basic
operation, set timing switch S4 only
to the On position and then press
the shutter release of the camera to
produce a flash (or more than one, if
it’s only capable of working in redeye reduction mode). You don’t need
to aim the camera flash at the trigger
unit’s sensor – aiming it at the ceiling
should be fine.
As soon as the camera’s flash (or
first flash) occurs, you should also see
Capacitors
1 100µF 16V electrolytic
3 100nF (0.1µF) MKT polyester
1 10nF (.01µF) MKT polyester
1 4.7nF (.0047µF) MKT
polyester
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 100kΩ
6 10kΩ
1 47kΩ
2 2.2kΩ
the slave flash fire. Assuming this is
the case, your trigger unit is probably
working correctly.
If not, you may have made a wiring
mistake somewhere. Perhaps you’ve
connected a component the wrong way
around or bridged a couple of tracks on
the board with a whisker of solder. So
turn off the flash unit and disconnect
it from the trigger unit, then unclip
the trigger unit’s 9V battery and look
for the problem.
Once the trigger unit is operating
correctly, you can then set the DIL
switches so that the trigger unit only
July 2003 65
switch setting by one (ie, S4 off and
S5 and S6 on, for 2 + 4 = 6) and try
again. If the slave flash still operates,
you did underestimate the number
of camera flashes the first time – so
increase the setting by one more and
try again.
Conversely, if the slave flash doesn’t
fire this second time, your previous
guess must have been correct. In this
case, return the switches to their previous setting and your trigger unit is
correctly set up.
In short, the correct setting for the
trigger unit’s flash count programming
switches is the highest count that still
results in the slave flash being triggered for each flash shot - because it’s
being triggered on the last and ‘main’
camera flash.
Final assembly
Fig.4: here are the full-size artworks for the front panel and the drilling
template for the case lid.
operates the slave flash in response
to the camera’s main flash. Of course,
if the camera is able to be operated
in normal single-flash mode, there’s
nothing further to be done.
Setting the flash count
You’ve already set the trigger unit
to respond to the first camera flash,
by turning on only DIP switch S4. As
you’ve probably realised by now this
is the correct setting for cameras that
can operate in this mode.
Even if your camera can only operate in multi-flash red-eye reduction
mode, it’s still quite easy to find the
correct switch setting. You don’t
have to count exactly how many
flashes the camera does produce for
each shot. Just have a guess and set
the trigger unit’s switches initially to
that figure.
For example, if you think it produces five flashes in all (four pre-flashes
and the main flash), turn on switches
S4 (1) and S6 (4). Then press the camera’s shutter release to take a ‘shot’,
and see if the slave flash is triggered.
If it does fire, you’ve either guessed
the total number of camera flashes
correctly or you have underestimated.
To find out which, increase the
This view shows
how the 9V
battery is wedged
in position using
polystyrene foam.
Note the semicircular groove
in the back of the
case for the flash
trigger lead.
66 Silicon Chip
Once you’ve completed this checkout and setting up procedure, your
trigger unit is ready for final assembly.
Just before doing this, though, you’ll
need to file a small semicircular notch
near the top centre of one side of the jiffy box, to allow the output trigger lead
to exit the box when it’s assembled.
To work out exactly where the notch
should be located, offer the lid and PC
board assembly up to the top of the
box, and mark the position where the
lead will need to exit for minimum
strain on the lead and the connections.
Then file the notch with a jeweller’s
rat-tail file, making it only just large
enough for the lead – so that when the
lid is screwed to the box, the lead will
be securely clamped.
Now place the 9V battery (still connected to the trigger board via the clip
lead) in the centre of the box and cut
four small pieces of expanded poly
styrene foam to go around it and hold
it in position. That done, cut a piece
of thin sheet plastic (or presspahn
insulating material) to the same size
and shape as the trigger unit PC board,
to provide an insulating layer above
the battery.
You can now fit the lid/board assembly to the box, winding the battery
lead carefully around so it doesn’t get
caught between the edge of the lid and
the box rim. The final step is to secure
the lid using the four screws provided with the box, to hold everything
together firmly.
Your slave flash trigger unit is now
complete and ready for some serious
SC
flash photography.
siliconchip.com.au
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Hy-Q International Pty Ltd
Tel:(03) 9562-8222
Fax: (03) 9562 9009
WebLINK: www.hy-q.com.au
We specialise in providing a range of Low
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July 2003 67
By Trent Jackson
A programmable
continuity tester
No matter how high-falutin’ is your involvement with electronics,
one of the most common bench tests is for continuity. And sure, you
can always rake out the multimeter but this little tester does a better
job, with selectable resistances. It makes an ideal Go/No Go Tester.
L
Fig.1: the block diagram of the Programmable Continuity Tester. It feeds
a current through the device under test (DUT) and the resulting signal is
then buffered, amplified and compared with a reference voltage.
68 Silicon Chip
ET’S FACE IT, almost every analog
and digital multimeter does
have built-in capabilities for testing
continuity. However, this function is
somewhat limited. Most DMMs are
preset to beep that little miniature
buzzer inside when the continuity is
below about 40Ω or so.
Wouldn’t it be nice to have a device
that allows you to set this minimum
continuity to anywhere between 1Ω
and 100Ω? Well, that is exactly what
this project does. It is accurate, reliable
and works very well.
It can be used to check the resistance
of all sorts of low resistance devices:
lamp filaments, motor windings, relays, switches, transformers, speakers,
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: most the circuit functions are performed by a single LM324 quad op amp IC. These initially buffer and amplify
the signal from the DUT, after which the signal is compared against a fixed voltage reference in IC1b. The output of
IC1b then drives a buzzer and indicator LED via transistor Q1.
wiring harnesses or you name it. It’s
ideal for auto electrical work and a
host of other applications.
Features
The unit features six preset resistance levels: 5Ω, 10Ω, 20Ω, 50Ω, 75Ω
and 100Ω, selected by a rotary switch.
Now if any resistance that you measure
is less than the preset value, the buzzer
sounds and a red LED lights. In addition, there is provision for presetting
any resistance value over the range of
1Ω to 100Ω. Provided the resistance
you measure is less than your preset
value, the buzzer sounds and the red
LED lights.
How it works
The circuit uses just one low-cost op
amp package, a 3-terminal regulator
and not much else. Fig.1 shows the
block diagram and while it shows a
lot of boxes, the concept is really quite
siliconchip.com.au
straightforward. There is a current
source to feed the device under test
(DUT), three op amps used as buffer
and amplifier stages, a comparator and
buffer, and the LED and buzzer.
Fig.2 shows the circuit diagram and
as you see, it uses just one LM324 quad
op amp to do most of the circuit func
tions. A 3-terminal regulator (REG1)
derives a fixed 5V from the 9V battery.
The fixed 5V is required because the
current source and comparator rely on
having precise voltage levels.
Resistor R1 and trimpot VR1 set the
maximum current (into a short circuit)
for the device under test (DUT) at
16.6mA. The voltage developed across
the DUT is then fed to IC1c via a 330W
resistor which, together with ZD1,
provides transient input protection.
IC1c is connected as a unity gain
voltage follower and acts as a buffer
stage. This is followed by op amp
IC1d which has its gain set by one of
seven switched resistors (trimpot VR2
included).
The output of IC1d goes to another
unity buffer (IC1a) and is then fed to
pin 5 of IC1b which is connected (no
feedback) as a comparator. Pin 6 is
connected to a voltage divider which
means its level is +2.5V. Now if pin 5 is
less than the +2.5V at pin 6, the output
of the comparator goes low to turn on
transistor Q1, the buzzer and LED2.
Half-supply reference
The key fact about this circuit is
the +2.5V at pin 6 of IC1b; everything
relies on this.
Now we’ll backtrack a bit, to see how
the circuit functions when testing an
actual resistance. Let’s say that you
want to check continuity (ie, resist
ance) of less than 5Ω, so you set that
with the rotary switch. That done, you
connect a 4.7Ω resistor across the test
terminals.
July 2003 69
Fig.3: the assembly is straightforward but take care with the switch wiring, as it’s easy to make a mistake with the
connections. Take care also when installing the semiconductors, as these can easily be damaged if mounted the
wrong way around on the PC board.
As previously noted, VR1 is set to
provide a maximum current into the
DUT of 16.6mA. Now because the DUT
is 4.7Ω, the voltage developed across
it will be 4.7 x .0166 = 78mV.
This is passed through the unity
gain buffer unchanged (that’s what
a unity gain buffer does!) and fed to
IC1d, where it will be amplified by a
factor of 31.3, as set by resistors R11
and R10. So the voltage at the output
of IC1d will be 0.078 x 31.3 = 2.44V.
This is less than the +2.5V at pin 6 of
IC1b and so Q1 will be turned on to
sound the buzzer and light LED2.
The same process happens with
the other resistance ranges. The gain
of IC1d is changed via the switchable
resistors to suit the selected threshold
resistance.
Now some readers won’t be happy
with the above description. “Hang on
a minute” they’ll say. “The current
set by trimpot VR1 is nowhere near
constant and will be quite a bit less for
higher resistances around 100Ω than
for low resistance values”. And they
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
No.
o 2
o 1
o 1
o 1
o 3
o 1
o 1
o 1
o 3
o 1
o 1
o 1
70 Silicon Chip
Value
100kΩ
68kΩ
39kΩ
15kΩ
10kΩ
6.8kΩ
3.3kΩ
1.2kΩ
560Ω
330Ω
180Ω
100Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black yellow brown
blue grey orange brown
orange white orange brown
brown green orange brown
brown black orange brown
blue grey red brown
orange orange red brown
brown red red brown
green blue brown brown
orange orange brown brown
brown grey brown brown
brown black brown brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black orange brown
blue grey black red brown
orange white black red brown
brown green black red brown
brown black black red brown
blue grey black brown brown
orange orange black brown brown
brown red black brown brown
green blue black black brown
orange orange black black brown
brown grey black black brown
brown black black black brown
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List
1 PC board, 70 x 55mm, coded
04207031
1 plastic utility box, 130 x 67 x
44mm
1 label to suit box
2 knobs to suit rotary switch and
potentiometer
1 SPST toggle switch (S1)
2 5mm LED bezels
2 panel mount banana sockets,
one red, one black
1 9V battery
1 9V battery holder
4 adhesive PC board standoffs
(Jaycar HP-0760; pack 25)
1 1-pole 12-position rotary
switch (S2)
1 self-oscillating piezo buzzer;
Jaycar AB-3459 or equivalent
2 cable ties
Rainbow cable
1 200Ω horizontal mount trimpot
(VR1)
1 100kΩ linear potentiometer
(VR2)
The PC board and battery holder are mounted on the lid of the case, as shown in
this photo (see text). Use several cable ties to keep the wiring neat and tidy but
leave enough slack in the wiring so that the lid can be opened out.
Fig.4: check your PC
board against this fullsize etching pattern
before installing any
of the parts.
Semiconductors
1 LM324 quad op amp (IC1)
1 7805 3-terminal regulator
(REG1)
1 BC558 PNP transistor (Q1)
1 5mm green LED (LED1)
1 5mm red LED (LED2)
2 1N4004 silicon diodes (D1, D2)
1 4.7V 1W zener diode (ZD1)
Capacitors
1 100µF 16V PC electrolytic
1 10µF 16V PC electrolytic
2 100nF (0.1µF) MKT polyester
or monolithic
Resistors (1%, 0.25W)
2 100kΩ
1 3.3kΩ
1 68kΩ
1 1.2kΩ
1 39kΩ
3 560Ω
1 15kΩ
1 330Ω
3 10kΩ
1 180Ω
1 6.8kΩ
1 100Ω
will be right. But that does not alter
the validity of the circuit, because the
gain resistors selected by the rotary
switch have been selected with this
factor in mind.
If you have trouble accepting this,
let’s try another example, this time
using the 100Ω range. And this time,
let’s make the device under test (DUT)
a resistance of 95Ω. We said before
siliconchip.com.au
that trimpot VR1 is adjusted to give
a maximum test current (into a short
circuit) of 16.6mA. By the magic of
Ohm’s Law and the specified 5V supply, this means that the total resistance
of R1 and trimpot VR1 is 300Ω. Try it:
5V/300Ω = 16.6mA.
Therefore, when we connect 95Ω
across the DUT terminals, the total
current flowing will be 5V/395Ω =
12.7mA (we never said the test current was fixed!). The resulting voltage
across the 95Ω resistance is 1.2V and
this is amplified in IC1d by a factor of
2, giving 2.4V at pin 5 of comparator
IC1b. Once again, the output of IC1b
will be low, Q1 will turn on and the
buzzer will sound.
We’ll leave it to you to confirm the
principle on other ranges but don’t
July 2003 71
Fig.5: this full-size artwork
can be used as a drilling
template for the front panel.
Note that it’s best to make the
larger holes by drilling small
pilot holes first and then
carefully enlarging them to
size using a tapered reamer.
worry, it does. In fact, in theory, trimpot VR1 could have been omitted and
R1 specified as 300Ω and the circuit
would work identically. Trimpot VR1
is really only required to cope with
slight tolerance variations in the circuit components.
Putting it together
All the circuit components, with
the exception of the rotary switch and
potentiometer VR2, are mounted on a
PC board measuring 70 x 55mm and
coded 04207031. The parts overlay
and wiring diagram is shown in Fig.3.
Assembly is very straightforward.
Mount all the PC pins (18 required)
first, followed by the resistors and diodes. Make sure the diodes are in the
right way around and the same comment applies to the two electrolytic
capacitors. Then mount the polarised
piezo buzzer, the transistor, 3-terminal
regulator and the LM324 IC.
The finished PC board mounts on
the lid of the case using four adhesive
standoffs (Jaycar HP-0760; pack 25).
The battery holder is mounted on the
lid with a dob of hot-melt glue or you
could use double-sided foam tape. All
front panel components are mounted
on the base of the case so you can fit
the label to the case and use it as a
drilling template for the on/off switch,
two LED bezels, rotary switch, potentiometer (VR2) and the two banana
plug sockets.
Rotary switch setup
The rotary switch needs to be set
to provide seven positions before it
is mounted in the case: pull off the
indexing washer and set it back on the
threaded bush to give the right number
of positions. Try it by hand before you
mount it in position.
Once the case hardware is mounted,
complete all the wiring as shown in
Fig.3. When all is complete, carefully
check your work and then fit a 9V
battery and switch on. The green LED
should light.
Now switch your multimeter to the
200mA range and connect it across
the test terminals. Adjust VR1 for a
current of 16mA.
That done, switch down to the
20mA range and readjust VR1 to obtain
a reading of 16.6mA.
Now do a series of checks to see that
each range gives the correct buzzer
result (and with the red LED lit), using
suitable test resistors. That’s it: make
up a pair of banana plug test leads and
you now have a very useful ProgramSC
mable Continuity Tester.
Are Your Issues
Getting Dog-Eared?
Are your SILICON CHIP copies getting damaged or dog-eared just
lying around in a cupboard or on a shelf? Can you quickly find
a particular issue that you need to refer to?
REAL
VALUE
AT
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PLUS P
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Keep your copies of SILICON CHIP safe, secure and
always available with these handy binders
Available Aust, only. Price: $A14.95 plus $10 p&p per order (includes GST).
Just fill in and mail the handy order form in this issue; or fax (02) 9939 2648; or call
(02) 9939 3295 and quote your credit card number.
72 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
PC CONTROLLED MOVING MESSAGE DISPLAY KIT:
This kit has been redesigned to use super-bright dot
matrix displays (available in red & orange) making it
cheaper, easier to assemble and more attractive. Two or
more of these kits can be cascaded to form a much longer
display. Operates from a PC's parallel port. Requires 712V DC or 5-10V AC, not supplied. This kit includes PCB
and all on-board components including dot matrix
displays. The software is not supplied but can be
downloaded. Alternate software can be downloaded from
http://skywebs.com/~glenn/LEDsign.htm
Kit with RED DISPLAYS: (K100R) $109
with ORANGE DISPLAYS: (K100Y) $119
SUITABLE PLUGPACK: 9V <at> 500mA: (PP14) $10
(USED) BWD 603B
FUNCTION
GENERATOR
MINI-LAB:
More info on our
web site $260
(zc0211)
(USED) ROHDE &
SCHWARZ SMS
SIGNAL
GENERATOR:
Outputs 0.1 to
520MHz. $600
(zc0214)
VALVE PRE-AMPLIFIER KIT:
Bring back the warmth of that old valve pre-amp with this
simple to build kit. It requires a single 9VAC or 9-12VDC
supply, The single PCB can be cut to separate the power
supply section of the circuit. Kit includes
power adaptor,
PCB, and all onboard
components including RCA connectors &
valve. k188A $33
Electrical energy from waste heat?
Charge batteries from a log fire?
All sounds a bit incredible. Well now you can turn heat from the sun, a fire, or a car
exhaust in to electrical energy. We now have in stock these amazing THERMOELECTRIC DEVICES They can be used to produce power to charge batteries or
for our LED Lamp Kits etc. These devices simply mount between two metal
blocks or heatsinks and
generate power when one
side is kept as cool as
HOT SIDE
possible and the other side
is kept hot. We are selling
METAL BLOCK
these devices for under
DEVICE
$60. When coupled with
our New 3V inverter kit can
be used to charge a 12V,
COOL SIDE
24V
and other batteries.
METAL BLOCK
More info on our web site.
o a t l e y e . c o m
UHF REMOTE CONTROL / UHF REMOTE
CONTROLLED SIREN: This very loud siren is remotely
controlled by a small key-chain transmitter: Press once for
ON press again for OFF. The siren contains two PCB's, 1 x
UHF Receiver PCB and 1 x Siren PCB. There is a SCR on o
the receiver PCB that can switch a 4A load. There are two
wires interconnecting these so the siren-UHF receiver can
easily be separated to serve as stand-alone units. The
Motorola encoder IC used in the transmitter is an
MC145026 and its matching MC145028 is used in the
receiver. These are both readily available. The whole kit is
supplied in its original packing and it also includes a 12V
cigarette lighter lead, and suitable Australian power
adaptor. The unit is new and guaranteed except for the
batteries. In a few units tested the 12V lighter battery in the
transmitter was OK but the 8.4V Nicad back-up battery in
the siren needed charging. Siren-RX: 30M range, 6-13.8V
operation, 1mA stand-by, 120dB output, 500mA
consumption when on.
***NEW
INVERTER
KIT***
This kit can be configured for 24VDC to
12VDC or 12VDC to 24VDC or even some
voltages in between. It was tested with a
100W load but greater heatsinking will be
required above 50W. Voltage selection is
done by changing the value of a resistor
and by changing the number of turns on the
transformer. The transformer is easy to
construct & requires only an average of
about 20 turns on the primary and
secondary windings. Ideal for car stereo &
GPS systems etc in trucks with 24VDC
systems or to charge laptops in cars. Kit
includes PCB, all onboard components &
parts to make
the simple
transformer.
0
5
.
2
BARGAIN 12VAC
POND PUMP
0
6.5
Why spend a small fortune
on a new water feature
when you could build your
own. Requires 12VAC (We
have a suitable plug-pack
available for just$6). Pumps
a head of up to 500mm at
300L p/h via a
8mm outlet. (PP1)
ST
JU 2.50
$1
DON'T PAY A SMALL FORTUNE
THIS HAS TO BE THE QUICKEST,
EASIEST & CHEAPEST WAY EVER
TO STORE AND TRANSPORT DATA
8m
-7
<-
SEE THE REVIEW THIS ISSUE OF SILICON CHIP
These fantastic little devices will hold much more
data than a floppy disk and have much
better data retention. How many
times have you lost data on a
corrupted floppy? Or the
file is too big to fit a
floppy disk?
mm-
<- 22
-->
->
m
16M... $24:
(16md)...holds
more than11 floppies.
32M... $29: (32md)...
holds more than 22 floppies.
64M... $49: (64md)... holds
more than44 floppies.
128M... $82: (128md)... holds more
$2
100W
$2
nRF401 TRANSCEIVER MODULE
based on the nRF401 single chip UHF
transceiver designed to operate in the 433MHz
frequency band. It features Frequency Shift
Keying (FSK) modulation and demodulation
Bargain postage rates on our 12V / capability. nRF401 operates at bit rates up to
20kbit/s. Transmit power can
7Ah sealed lead acid batteries.
be adjusted to a maximum of
We are overstocked on these fresh
10dBm. nRF401 features a
stock batteries so now is the time
standby mode. Operates
to pick up a real bargain, 2.6kg,
from a single +3 - 5V DC
150 x 65 x 92mm:PB6 $25. For
s u p p l y. F r e q u e n c y
the months of July and August we
Ch#1/Ch#2 433.92/ 434.33
will post any quantity of batteries
MHz, Modulation FSK, Max
to NSW, Bris. Adel & Melb. for just
RF output power
$7. Ask about our discounted rates to other locations.
Supply voltage DC 2.7-5.25
supply current 11
LONG RANGE 4 CH
U H F VmAReceive
Transmit supply current
TRANSMITTER AND RECEIVER KITs <at> -10dBm RF output power
8 mA Standby supply current
For more details on this
8 uA, PCB size 31 X 22 X
kit look for the kit review
10mm
in the last issue of Silicon
Chip. Kits inc. PCB, UHF
module and all onboard
SPECIAL INTRO PRICE $33 each
components.
For much more information simply
Transmitter
K190A $22.
search the net for NRF-401
Receiver
K190B $32.
Also see our web site
www.oatleyelectronics.com Suppliers of kits and surplus electronics to hobbyists, experimenters, industry & professionals.
Orders: Ph ( 02 ) 9584 3563, Fax 9584 3561, sales<at>oatleyelectronics.com, PO Box 89 Oatley NSW 2223
OR www.oatleye.com
major credit cards accepted, Post & Pack typically $7 Prices subject to change without notice ACN 068 740 081 ABN18068 740 081
SC_JLY_03
MORE FUN WITH THE PICAXE – PART 6
‘Stringing’ Along
With The PICAxe
by Stan Swan
Would you believe this month we are going to use a piece of
wet string for data communication between two PICAXE08s? Or even a ring of kids holding hands? And we might
even try adding radio! Read on – and be amazed . . .
T
he so-far-unused Pin 0, normally switchable as either the
programming input or an output pin, has revealed itself capable of
versatile double duty.
When a high impedance piezo
sounder was connected to this pin, it
was found that programming downloads to the “08” would still pass
as normal, with the piezo also conveniently “burbling” as the program
went past.
Not only is this a useful audible assurance, (unless you’re working late at
night!), but the piezo remains capable
of sound output as desired, without
having to swap the I/O leads. Consequently it’s recommended that sound
outputs be now normally generated
at Pin 0, since this conveniently frees
up other I/O pins for more demanding
work
Sounds, LED flashing, A-D conversion, timing, pulsing, and motor control all for under $5! As if their appeal
so far wasn’t enough, PICAXE-08’s also
come with full-featured serial data
communications capabilities.
Sacre bleu – it’s almost like learning your kids are talented at cricket,
calculus and cooking!
As we have discovered over the
past few months, these little “kids”
are extremely talented. Unlike kids,
though, they are very cheap to train
and use. Not only that, they don’t
know the difference between work
and play!
But, at 2400 bps, it’s not very fast
– OK, maybe your kids aren’t that
hot tidying up their bedrooms either?
However such data speeds are more
than enough for digital data control
over simple wired links and show
merit for short range wireless control
and telemetry too.
Even when wound back to 300 bits
per second (perhaps for reliability),
valuable data acquisition of temperatures/security/voltages/control signals
and the like can occur. Such variables
may only need updating every few
seconds (even hours?) – it’s not as if
you’re downloading MP3s from the
web at ADSL speeds!
In today’s wide-bandwidth data
communications age, when Firewire,
Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, ADSL and even regular USB entrance us with speed and
seamless connectivity, plain RS-232
may seem as quaint as Morse code.
Yet Recommended Standard #232,
dating from 1960s room-filling computers, still remains the core tech-
How long is a piece of (wet) string?
Long enough to transmit and receive
data communications from one
PICAXE to another. Fair dinkum – wet
string really does work!
74 Silicon Chip
www.siliconchip.com.au
nique for linking diverse electronic
communications and terminal equipment, especially when raw speed is
not an issue.
Modems, navigational aids, data
loggers, CNC milling machines, programmable devices, instruments and
the like often still depend on inter-device protocols detailing speeds, bits
per character, stop and parity.
Such well known cryptic expressions as 9600E71 (9600 bps, Even
Parity, 7 bits per character, 1 Stop bit)
inform both ends of a serial comms
link of the protocols expected, much
as sports teams must follow prescribed
rules. (If one team plays basketball
while the other plays soccer then of
course little sense will occur).
RS-232 voltages should strictly be
±15V, with “1” being negative and
“0” positive. These wide swings may
have to be provided by the ubiquitous
MAX232 IC, as was the case in one of
the PICAXE applications shown last
month.
However, the PICAXE swing of 5V is
usually sufficient. Classic serial D9/25
data cables may use diverse data flow
control voltages, presented over extra
wires at RTS (Ready To Send), CTS
(Clear To Send), DTR (Data Terminal
Ready).
Phew, rest easy ladies and gentleman – FWR on these (Finished With
Engines?) – bare bones data links can
be done over just a 2 wire connection
(signal line and ground return).
In fact “08”s have shown themselves to have such robust input
features that almost any electrical
2-wire link could be viable, with the
theoretical “50 foot” (~15m) serial
cable limit trivial.
Junk box wires, 100 metre lengths
of twin core bell wire, capacitors, or
even (wait for it!) damp natural string
(!) have all delivered the data for me.
The upper wired link impedance
is thought to be some 1MΩ, which
roughly approximates the resistance
of dry skin.
Ever conscious of electrical safety
with impressionable youngsters and
with adult “terminals” at each end,
I’ve even had a chain of young kids
holding hands passing RS232 data,
(perhaps the kids had palms damp
with the excitement!).
Quick DMM soil conductivity tests
here in coastal New Zealand, showed
some 10kΩ resistance with a ten metre
probe separation, implying a single
www.siliconchip.com.au
Yes, our “standard” PICAXE circuit has changed this month – and not only
’cos there’s two of ’em! We’re also permanently connecting the piezo to I/O
port 0 (pin 7). Why? Because we can!
Here’s the protoboard wiring for
the transmitter shown above. The receiver is basically indentical
but does not have the LED, switch nor associated resistors.
July 2003 75
BASIC PROGRAM LISTINGS
(This can also be downloaded from http://picaxe.orconhosting.net.nz)
RX.BAS
‘PICAXE-08 serial INPUT data control link for July 2003 SiChip article V 1.0 15/5/03
‘Needs matching output program & hardware at sender PICAXE for receiver piezo control
‘Connect piezo to PICAXE-08 pin 0 - ref article for use as programming feedback too.
‘2 wires between units only - data on pin 4 linking both & simple ground return
‘Inputs such high impedance that even damp string (~ 1MOhm) may be used as conductor!
‘Variable b0= sender switch status (0=off/low,1=on/high) with 10k pulldown resistor
‘NB -serial link decoding overheads may mean time delays (?)-easily *pause* tweaked.
‘Via Stan. SWAN (MU<at>W,New Zealand) => s.t.swan<at>massey.ac.nz <=
‘———————————————————————————————————
‘ Lines beginning ‘ are program documentation & may be ignored if need be.
‘ Program available for web download => www.picaxe.orconhosting.net.nz/rx.bas
‘———————————————————————————————————
state:
‘ procedure to serial data read sender switch state
serin 4,n2400,b0
‘ set up serial input on pin 4 & wait for b0 value
if b0 =1 then fastbeep
‘ check b0 & jump to fastbeep if =1(ON) else continue
slowbeep:
sound 0,(80,20)
pause 1000
goto state
‘ slow beep routine when switch is low (OFF)
‘ 20 ms lazy beep to piezo attached direct to pin 0
‘ 1 sec delay (may need altering to synch. ?)
‘ return to serial link switch reading input
fastbeep:
sound 0,(100,10)
pause 250
goto state
‘ fast beep routine when switch is high (ON)
‘ 10 ms higher pitched urgent beep to pin 0 piezo
‘ 1/4 sec delay ( may also need altering ?)
‘ return to serial link switch reading input
TX.BAS
‘PICAXE-08 serial OUTPUT data control link for July 2003 SiChip article. V 1.0 15/5/03
‘Needs matching input program & PICAXE hardware at receiver unit for sender control
‘Connect status check LED via 220 Ohm dropper R & toggle switch Pin 0 with pulldown R
‘Simple 2 wire data link can be greatly extended or even replaced with damp string !
‘Variable b0= switch status ( 0=off/low, 1=on/high ) with 10k pulldown resistor
‘Pause times at sender may need tweaking to synch. with receiver - decoding o’heads ?
‘Via Stan.SWAN (MU<at>W, New Zealand) => s.t.swan<at>massey.ac.nz <=
‘———————————————————————————————————
‘Lines beginning ‘ are program comments etc & may be ignored if need be
‘Program available for web download => www.picaxe.orconhosting.net.nz/tx.bas
‘———————————————————————————————————
state:
serout 4,n2400,(b0)
if pin1=1 then fastbeep
‘ procedure to serial data send local switch status
‘ setup & 2400bps send b0 value as serial output pin 4
‘ if local switch is on/high jump to fastbeep
slowbeep:
b0=0
pulsout 2, 5000
pause 2000
goto state
‘ lazy slowbeep if switch is off (0)
‘ set switch status variable b0=0
‘ pulse attached LED at pin 2 for local confirmation
‘ 2 sec. delay (may need altering for synch ?)
‘ loop back to switch status routine
fastbeep:
b0=1
pulsout 2,5000
pause 500
goto state
‘ fastbeep urgent routine if switch is on (1)
‘ assign switch status variable b0=1
‘ pulse attached LED at pin 2 for local confirmation
‘ 1/2 sec. delay (may also need altering for synch ?)
‘ loop back to switch reading routine
76 Silicon Chip
wire earth return (SWER) data link
could be viable; perhaps over many
kilometres to suit moist region farms
(unused electric fences perhaps?)
What I am trying to say here is that
just about anything conductive but
safe is worth a try. How about a waterfilled plastic hose, with connections
to the brass fittings? NB: 240V mains
wiring is of course so unsafe when
meddled with that it should never
even be considered!
You won’t do any harm and you
may be surprised at what you can get
away with!
Syntax:
Bit rates can be 300, 600, 1200 or
2400 bps, true (T) or inverted (N).
Picaxe serial commands are capable
of sophisticated data qualification too,
needed perhaps for LCD driving. At a
basic level, suitable for this month’s
article, the syntax is just Serial output:
output pin, T/N & bit rate, (data,data,…)
Example: serout 2,N2400,(b1)
This sends variable b1 (and others?)
through pin 2 at 2400bps, inverted
polarity
Serial input:
input pin, T/N & bit rate, data,
data,…
Example: serin 4,T300,b2
This receives one byte of data (true
polarity, 300bps) at pin 4 and stores
the data as variable b2. Incidentally,
the program stops and waits until this
prescribed data is received.
An important further aspect of serial
reception, only too well known in
classic comms. theory (recall buffered
16550 UARTs?), is that data may be
missed or jumbled if the busy receiver
is “distracted” with another task or
program loop.
Wireless data receivers may also
need a few milliseconds (typically 5)
turn-on time as well. Sender delays,
“wake up” junk variables, sync bytes
(with predetermined data), reduced
data rates or even refined recipient program routines may be needed to cope.
Mmm– does it all seem very like your
kids on reluctant kitchen duty again?
The program(s):
Since two “08s” are used, it’ll help
if two PCs are available for independent editing. One will of course suffice
(using minimised screens) but you’ll
need a clear head to avoid confusing
www.siliconchip.com.au
Readily-available
(and cheap!) 433MHz
LIPD transmitters
and receivers make a
great way to link two
PICAXE datacomms
setups. The transmitter
(left) and receiver
(right) are shown here
almost life size
the programs, cables and controllers!
It’ll also help if you use consistent
titles – local/sender/transmitter/tx/A
and remote/recipient/receiver/rx/B
perhaps ?
The setup here uses a simple switch,
whose status is shown also by a local
LED flash, to control remote speaker
beep rates and tones. When on, this
switch just connects the positive rail
(~5V) to input pin 1, which then reads
a “1” to the program.
At switch off (read as 0), this then
unconnected pin 1 may randomly
“float” between 0-1 values, since it’s
not strictly connected to anything.
A high value “pull down” resistor
(~10kΩ) solves this by providing
a weak but firm connection to the
ground rail. The opposite effect may
be organised, if needed, with a similar “pull up” resistor to the positive
supply.
Flicking the switch on just instructs
the remote PICAXE to sound its piezo
more urgently and at a higher tone.
Pauses at each end can easily be ad-
justed (ex. pause 500 = ½ sec delay) to
give LED & sounder synching.
Of course a further data link could
have been added, perhaps for the
remote to “handshake” signal back to
the local unit about its state and thus
regulate and control the data flow.
Just a one way (simplex) wiring
has been set up initially to help avoid
your possible “which is which” confusion and allow minimalist (wired)
links.
Wireless linking
An appealing extension of this circuit uses prebuilt hybrid 433.29MHz
UHF radio control modules at each
end. These quite cheap and readily-available devices were apparently
developed for licence-free radio
controlled garage door opening, with
SMD circuitry on the SAW transmitter
(Surface Acoustic Wave – a kind of enhanced piezo oscillator) small enough
to fit in a key-chain and generate a
few millwatts, even with a near flat
(2-12V) battery.
And here’s the proof of the pudding. OK, so here it’s only over a few centimetres
but it could be many hundreds of metres with suitable antennas. The scanner at
rear is simply monitoring the 433.29MHz data stream.
www.siliconchip.com.au
The sensitive receiver is slightly
larger, and needs a steadier supply
(4.5V-5.5V) – it’d normally be indoors
of course supplied from the mains
via a plugpack and 7805 perhaps.
They often pair with Holtek encoder/
decoder ICs but seem almost made for
wireless Picaxe linking, since their
convenient “serial data in” (Tx) and
“serial data out” (Rx) pins almost beg
for action!
PICNIK protoboard construction
proved simple, with supply wiring
and data pins a breeze to connect.
The only code changes related to data
rates being lowered to 300 and made
true (T) – N did not turn on the transmitter. Pins on each module allow a
50Ω antenna too, perhaps resonant
quarter-wave uprights (~175mm wire
slightly coiled for compactness).
To help initial set up a scanner or
other radio receiver capable of covering 433.29MHz may greatly assist
-you’ll hear a scratchy ASK (Amplitude Shift Keying) wideband signal
as the data goes out.
Naturally range was of keen interest
and even with the simple antenna
strong line-of-sight signals were deJuly 2003 77
The 433MHz receiver and transmitter in place on the protoboard in the PICNIK box. We’re not attempting to show any
wiring for these because every manufacturer uses a different pinout! Suffice to say that you feed data from the transmitter
PICAXE port4; (pin 3) in to the data in pin on the 433MHz transmitter and take data out to PICAXE receiver from the data
out pin on the 433MHz receiver. Now that’s pretty straightforward, isn’t it!
References and
parts suppliers . . .
(also refer to previous months articles)
1. Many web sites have valuable insights
into the last 200 years (semaphore to
cellular!) of data communication techniques and “brick walls “. The lucid “
Brief History of Datacomms.”– www.
k12.hi.us/~telecom/datahistory.html
is typical.
2. Wireless data modules from Computronics, WA (type TWS/RWS)
www.computronics.com.au or
Commlinx, Tas (type TLP/RLP)
www.commlinx.com.au
~A$8 each, but pinouts may vary.
3. Tx/Rx module datasheets via
Reynolds Electronics (Rentron USA )
www.rentron.com, or Laipac Technology (Canada) - www.laipac.com
4.Oatley Electronics (NSW)- www.
oatleyelectronics.com sell more
sophisticated UHF data units (ref.
June 2003 Silicon Chip article ), as do
Chipcon – www.chipcon.com
5. LIPD (Low Interference Potential Device) regulations - www.acma.gov.au
7. Author’s ever-updating “08” web page
– www.picaxe.orconhosting.net.nz,
shows simple 433MHz antenna suitable
longer range DIY wireless data links.
78 Silicon Chip
tected at 100 metres. A simple directional Yagi UHF antenna at each end
could push such links to a few km!
Indoor ranges of some 30m, influenced
of course by building materials (especially reinforced concrete), would
normally nicely cover a suburban
property (and maybe next door, although that is probably not legal).
Receiver “settling” time, as outlined
earlier, proved an issue however. Data
often was missed by the receiver busy
on task execution, and considerable
preamble “massaging”, perhaps by
longer gaps between data (200mS ?)
or pull up resistors may be needed
for links as reliable as the wired ones.
It’s recommended that you wrestle
with these tweaks yourself, since PICAXE workarounds are so easy to cut
and try that you may be rewarded with
immense insights into such classic
datacomms frustrations as noise and
receiver overload.
A possible application, with PICAXE-08s at both ends, relates to
“keeping your dog in the yard”.
A small transmitting collar module
could wake up (via the “sleep” command) and send a data pulse every 5
seconds or so to the nearby receiver.
Decoding software, suitably set up
to remain silent when pulses were
correctly received, would sound an
alert only when this pulse train was
absent, presumably because the sender
had “jumped the fence” and moved
out of range.
Visions of lively beeps signalling
“Fido’s out again” of course arise! Such
wandering animals, vehicles, or bags
etc could maybe then be located by
simple radio direction finding (RDF)
if still nearby, with your listening unit
then switched to a “find Fido“ mode.
Several coded senders could even
be monitored and identified by just
a single receiver – coloured winking
LEDs or varying tone/duration beeps
would give specific ID.
Such “fail safe” circuits have wide
application but the opposite function
offers productivity too.
Aside from short range emergency
location (avalanche rescue perhaps?),
consider an approaching bus fitted
with a data sender, coded for perhaps
the route number, so that a suitable
alert is triggered as the bus drew closer
to the stop.
Intending passengers could then be
ready to board before the bus drew up,
with obvious time saving benefits all
round- it may also encourage public
transport use.
Even your mum’s handbag might get
fitted with such a sender, so as to alert
“Yikes – mum’s almost home –tidy up
the kitchen fast “ as she approaches!
SC
Stay tuned.
NEXT MONTH:
Memory, LCD driving and
program economising
You think that by now we’d be done,
With “08s” exhausting their fun,
But the darlings of course,
Still have to do Morse!,
Before their big brothers can run.
www.siliconchip.com.au
The PIC programming software described in the
March 2001 article for the PIC Programmer &
Checkerboard is not suitable for use with
Windows 2000 or XP. Some constructors have
also experienced problems with newer (1GHz+)
PCs. Here’s how to resolve the problems.
contain the files. We named ours “C:\
IC-Prog”. It’s then just a matter of
unzipping the first two files into the
new directory and creating a shortcut
on your desktop (or start menu) to
“icprog.exe”.
The help file (icprog.chm) should
also be saved in this new folder.
By PETER SMITH
For Windows NT/2000/XP users,
the serial/parallel port driver should
be installed as the next step.
Launch IC-Prog (ignore any error
messages) and from the main menu
select Settings -> Options (see Fig.2).
Click on the Misc tab and from the
list of displayed options, click on the
“Enable NT/2000/XP Driver” check
box (do not change any other settings
on this tab!). Follow the prompts to
restart your machine so that the driver
can be installed and started.
Note: if the port driver is not
properly installed, you will get a
“Privileged Instruction” error when-
T
O RESOLVE THE VARIOUS is
sues, it is necessary to switch
to more up-to-date programming
software. As presented, the hardware
is compatible with the original “Tait
Parallel PIC Programmer”. Various
software packages that support this
type of programmer are freely available
on the Internet.
Using IC-Prog
We suggest “IC-Prog”, as it is
well-supported and free for personal
www.siliconchip.com.au
use. You can obtain the latest version
of IC-Prog from www.ic-prog.com In
all, you’ll need to download three
files: the application (icprog105a.zip),
the driver for Windows NT/2000/XP
(icprog_driver.zip) and the help file
(icprog.chm).
Note that the filenames will change
over time as IC-Prog is improved and
updated.
Unlike most Windows applications,
IC-Prog is not self-installing, so you’ll
need to manually create a folder to
Installing the port driver
July 2003 79
Fig.1: this is the main IC-Prog window. This easy-to-use package programs PICs
reliably and it’s free!
ever IC-Prog attempts to access the
parallel port.
Setting up IC-Prog
Before use, IC-Prog must be set up to
suit the programming hardware. From
the main menu, select Settings ->
Hardware to bring up the “Hardware
Settings” dialog (Fig.3). Choose “Pro
Pic 2 Programmer” as the programmer
type and “Direct I/O” as the interface
method.
Next, check the “Invert MCLR” and
“Invert VCC” boxes (do not check any
of the other “invert signal” options!).
You should also select the LPT port
that you’ll be using with the programmer.
No other settings in this dialog
should be changed.
Using PICALLW
A few constructors have asked
if PICALLW can be used with the
Fig.2: this dialog box lets you enable the serial/parallel
port driver for Windows NT/2000/XP. Be sure to follow
the prompts to restart your machine so that the driver is
properly installed and started.
80 Silicon Chip
programmer. We’ve checked it out
and it appears to work fine but note
that, at the time of writing, there are
some documented problems when
installing it on Windows NT/2000/
XP machines.
You can download PICALLW from
www.picallw.com Unzip the down
loaded file into a temporary folder
and double-click on the setup file to
launch the installation
Depending on the version of the
software, you may also need to install
a separate port driver for Windows
NT/2000/XP. Refer to the release notes
on the website for details.
Once the installation completes,
launch PICALLW from the start menu
and configure it for the “P16PRO” type
programmer (Fig.4).
Next, from the main Settings menu
choose Hardware Setup/Test to
bring up the dialog shown in Fig.5.
This menu allows you to select the
parallel port lines that control the
various programmer signals, as well
as their polarities. Simply click on
the “P16PRO 74LS07” button and the
software will set everything correctly.
Click on OK to close the window.
That’s it!
General information
Both of the programming packages
described above support a variety of
different PICs and serial-programmed
EEPROMs. However, the programming
hardware can only be used with the
PIC16C84 and PIC16F84(A) devices.
Be sure to select the correct type of PIC
Fig.3: this is how the settings should look for the PIC
Programmer hardware. If necessary, change the LPT port
to suit your setup. You may also need to increase the I/O
Delay slightly if you have a very fast PC.
www.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.4: the main PICALLW window. Select “P16PRO” from the drop-down list for
compatibility with the PIC Programmer hardware. The software usually detects
the correct LPT port automatically but if necessary, it can be changed manually
via the “Settings” menu.
from the drop-down list in the main
window at the start of your programming sessions.
Note: it is not a good idea to have
more than one programming package
installed on your system at any one
time. Make sure that you have completely removed one package (including the port driver) before installing
another.
Errata
Finally, constructors of this project
should note the following errata (some
of these corrections have been published before and are also included
here for the sake of convenience):
(1). On the PC board, there is insufficient space to fit the 2200µF 25V filter
capacitor but a value of 1000µF 25V
will be adequate.
(2). The schematic diagram on pages
64 & 65 (March 2001) has the following
errors:
(a) contact 7 of DIPSW5 and DIPSW6
should connect to the RUN contact
of S3a (the connection at CON3 is
correct);
(b) Contact 8 of DIPSW5 and DIPSW6
should connect to the RUN contact
of S3b (the connection at CON3 is
correct).
(c) The sections of IC1 are shown as
inverters. IC1 is in fact a 7407 non-inwww.siliconchip.com.au
verting hex buffer.
The PC board and component overlay on page 67 are correct.
(3). On the Liquid Crystal Display
Veroboard, add a 4.7kΩ resistor so that
it is connected between pins 2 & 6 of
the display. (ie, effectively connected
as a pull-up resistor between RA4 of
the PIC and +5V).
(4). Substitute the paragraph on page
69 (third column) which starts “The
RA4 input on the micro . . . ” with
the following text: “Close pole 5 of
DIPSW2, situated at the top centre of
the PIC Programmer board. This action
uses the associated 10kΩ resistor as a
pull-up resistor for bit RA1 of the PIC
micro, which is ultimately pulled low
by the operation of the switch (S6) to
start the chase sequence”.
Also, the text on page 69 (third column) refers to jumper J2 and switches
SW3 and SW4. These should be JP2,
S11 and S12, respectively. The circuit
diagram and overlay are correct.
(5). The specified minimum DC input of 15V is too low to accommodate
the worst-case voltage drops across
the diode bridge (DB1) and the 12V
regulator (REG1). For reliable operation, the minimum input voltage
should be 17V.
12VAC plugpacks will probably
meet the minimum voltage after rectification but note that this will vary
model to model. To check if your plugpack (either AC or DC) has sufficient
output, apply power to the circuit and
measure the voltage between the output of REG1 and ground. The reading
should be close to 13.2V.
(6). The programming voltage (Vpp)
applied to the MCLR pin of the PIC is
divided down by a 100Ω series resistor
and two 470Ω resistors to ground. This
reduces the Vpp voltage to below the
minimum required for PIC16F84(A)
micros and may result in unreliable
programming. To correct this problem,
replace one of the 470Ω resistors with
a 4.7kΩ resistor.
(7). Some early kits were provided
with a female 25-pin ‘D’ connector
together with a gender changer. This
arrangement will not work because it
crosses over several connections. As
specified in the parts list, CON2 must
be a male type.
For connection to your computer,
use a short, good-quality (shielded)
parallel printer extension cable. SC
Fig.5: all you need to
do to here is click on
the “P16PRO 74LS07”
button and PICALLW
will set the correct
options for the PIC
Programmer. You may
need to increase the
“Prog Delay” value
slightly if you have a
very fast PC.
July 2003 81
VINTAGE RADIO
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
The “Jelly Mould” STC 205
Mantel/Table Receiver
The 1948 STC 205 dual-wave receiver was a
rather unusual set, especially when it came to
cabinet design. In addition, there were some
rather unusual circuit “quirks” in what was
otherwise a fairly conventional 5-valve superhet.
At first glance, the STC 205 doesn’t
appear to be really any different from
a hundred other 5-valve dual-wave
receivers, circa 1948. But it is different
– the cabinet slips over the top of the
set like a tea-cosy does over a teapot.
In fact, the cabinet style reminds many
people of a jelly mould, hence the
nickname given to the set.
The dial-scale is at the top of the set
and is angled at about 45°. This fact,
coupled with the overall styling of the
cabinet, makes it difficult to decide
whether the set is intended as a table
or mantel set – or is intended to be
both. Certainly, it would not look out
of place on a table as the cabinet style
is almost the same front and back. It
does, however, have a cutout in the
back of the cabinet near the top, which
acts as a carrying handle.
This seems to suggest that it is
primarily intended as a table set.
However, it is small enough and slim
enough to sit happily on a mantelpiece, although viewing the dial-scale
wouldn’t be all that easy.
As shown in the photos, the STC 205
has four control knobs and these are
located on either side of the cabinet.
Each of these is slid onto the shaft and
held in place using a machine screw
which goes through the centre of the
knob and into the end of the control
shaft. I am not aware of any other domestic receivers that use this method
of securing the control knobs.
An unloved STC 205
The STC 205 featured an angled dial-scale and an unusual cabinet that slid over
the chassis from the top.
82 Silicon Chip
My STC 205 receiver was obtained
in fair condition only and needed quite
a lot of work to restore it to working
order. The cabinet was very dull and
scruffy, the dial-scale cover and the
cardboard chassis cover were missing,
the power lead had been “repaired”
with tape and one knob was missing.
Fortunately, mice had not been in residence but the chassis was corroded
and was covered in dirt, cobwebs and
other debris from storage in a less than
ideal environment.
The chassis isn’t all that hard to get
out of its cabinet, although the procedure is somewhat different to normal.
First, the four knobs are removed by
undoing the screws that go into the
www.siliconchip.com.au
This view shows the bottom of the set with the cardboard cover removed. Access
to the various components is quite good, although the cabinet has to be removed
to allow access to the valves which are on the top of the chassis.
control shafts, then sliding the knobs
off (see photo). That done, you have to
undo the four screws through the rubber buffers on the base of the set, after
which the buffers and the cardboard
bottom plate are removed.
The final step is to undo the four
pillars that hold the chassis to the
cabinet. Once this has been done, it’s
simply a matter of lifting the cabinet
off the chassis.
From the photographs, it can be seen
that the chassis is well-populated with
components and there is not much
spare space. Despite this, access to the
various components and to the valves
is quite easy.
Cleaning up the mess
The speaker cloth was dirty, so it
was removed and washed in soapy
water. It was then thoroughly rinsed,
stretched slightly and laid to dry (the
cloth tends to shrink a little as it dries).
Similarly, the cabinet and knobs were
given a complete clean in the laundry
tub using detergent, warm water and a
good scrub with a nail brush.
Once clean and dry, the cabinet and
knobs were given a cut and polish
using car polish, which restored the
www.siliconchip.com.au
original sparkle. That done, the speak
er cloth was replaced and glued in
position using contact adhesive.
As mentioned earlier, the clear celluloid dial-scale cover was missing.
This was replaced with a cover cut
from a clear shirt-box lid and glued
into place using epoxy adhesive.
The next job involved cleaning
the chassis and this was mainly
achieved using a kitchen scouring pad
dampened with household kerosene.
However, there are many awkward
nooks and crannies on the chassis
which made this job difficult and the
end result was only satisfactory – it
certainly doesn’t have a pristine, “justout-of-the-factory” look.
If necessary, the pad can be cut up
and pushed into awkward spots with
a screwdriver and moved around.
This helps to get most of the gunk off
the chassis and components and I’ve
found that kerosene-dampened scouring pads are quite effective for this job.
It’s not a good idea to use steel wool,
as small slivers of steel can end up
in the chassis where you don’t want
them and cause shorts and possible
damage to the set.
Anyway, although not perfect, the
end result was quite presentable. As
a final touch-up, the dial pointer was
painted white, as it had discoloured
over the years.
Overhauling the circuitry
The set also had a few electrical
problems. First, the power lead was
replaced with a fresh twin figure-8
lead and because the set doesn’t have
an on-off switch, an in-line mains
switch was fitted. Today, I would be
inclined to fit a 3-core power lead for
extra safety.
The valves were all cleaned using
Each knob is secured using a screw
which passes through the centre and
into the end of the control shaft.
July 2003 83
This rear-view of the chassis show just how easy it is to access the valves once
the cabinet has been lifted off.
soapy water. This was done by holding the valves upside down and only
washing the glass envelopes, to keep
moisture from getting into the base.
It’s also important not to wash any
printing off the glass envelopes (eg,
the type number) during this process.
A lead on the loudspeaker transformer was found to have a dry joint
and this lead fell off as soon as it was
touched. I wonder how many strange
effects occurred over the years because
of this bad solder joint? The speaker
transformer had never been replaced,
so it was not a “new” problem.
Next, the two high-tension (HT)
electrolytics were replaced and an
audio bypass capacitor (C14) – omitted at the time of manufacture – was
added. As a result, with both the
dry joint resoldered and the missing
capacitor fitted, this is one set that
undoubtedly now performs better
than brand new.
There were a few other problems as
well. Resistor R13 had gone open circuit while R15 had gone high in value,
so both were replaced. These defective
resistors would have reduced the bias
on the 6V6GT audio output valve to
zero if the set had been turned on. As
a result, the 6V6GT would have drawn
excessive current if this fault was still
present and this may have destroyed
the valve.
From this, it can be seen that it’s
important to track down and correct
as many faults as possible before deciding to “give ‘er a go”. Faults like
those described above, plus leaky
coupling capacitors and open-circuit
loudspeaker transformers, can create
havoc if not corrected before the set is
switched on.
Four paper capacitors were also
found to be leaky and these were
replaced. These included two HT
bypasses (C13 and C17), the AGC
capacitor (C7) and the audio coupler
(C22). In addition, several perished
grommets were replaced, a new longer
antenna lead was fitted, a dial lamp
was replaced and a dry joint at the
lamp socket was resoldered.
That done, the valves were refitted
to the set so that it could be tested.
First, however, I set my multimeter
to a range greater than the expected
HT voltage (around 250V) and connected it between the output of the
6X5GT rectifier and chassis. The set
was then switched on and the HT
voltage checked. As expected, it was
around 250V with the new electrolytic
capacitors.
Note that if the 6X5-GT rectifier
had been low in emission, the HT
voltage may have been quite a bit
lower.
Anyway, the set did work but the IF
stage was unstable and the earthing of
the valve shield around the 6U7G was
poor. Fixing this problem involved
further cleaning of the chassis around
the base of this valve, to make sure
that the shield was properly earthed.
This eliminated the problem at the
time but the performance of this stage
deteriorated later on and a fresh 6U7G
had to be substituted to eliminate
the whistles and crackles that had
developed.
Alignment
The bottom of the receiver is fitted with a cardboard cover and a sticker that
shows the valve layout.
84 Silicon Chip
Alignment of the STC 205 receiver
was quite straightforward. First, a digital multimeter – set to the 0-20V DC
www.siliconchip.com.au
Watch Out For Asbestos
In Vintage Radios
Over the last few years, there has
been considerable publicity about
the dangers of contracting cancer
and other nasty diseases due to
contact with asbestos. As such,
readers should be aware that some
old radio receivers included sheets
of asbestos, usually fitted close to
valves to prevent damage to heat
heat-sensitive components and to
the cabinet.
Any receivers with asbestos in
them should be treated with extreme caution. Do not work on such
sets until you have sought expert
advice as how to the asbestos can
be safely removed or stabi
lised
within the set.
range – was connected across R9. With
the tuning gang closed, the set was
then switched to the broadcast band
and a signal generator – set at 455kHz
with tone modulation – connected to
the aerial and earth terminals of the
receiver.
The signal generator output was
then increased and the output frequency varied slightly to see if the
intermediate frequency (IF) was exactly 455kHz. In this case, it was close
enough. The IF transformer slugs were
then adjusted for maximum reading on
the multimeter, the signal generator
output being continuously reduced
as each section was aligned.
If you don’t have a signal generator, the procedure is to tune to a
local station and vary the size of the
antenna until the signal into the set
is strong enough to give a reading on
the multimeter. The set doesn’t have
to be exactly on 455 kHz – it’s just a
matter of adjusting the IF stages for
best performance.
Next, the oscillator coil core (slug)
is adjusted so that a station at the
low-frequency end of the broadcast
band (ie, around 600kHz) appears at its
correct location on the dial. The aerial/
antenna coil is then adjusted at around
the same spot on the dial.
That done, you simply tune to
around 1500kHz and adjust the oscillator trimmer capacitor (if necessary) so
that a known station appears at its correct dial location. The aerial trimmer
www.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the STC 205 is a fairly conventional 5-valve dual-wave receiver with
a couple of unusual features.
is then adjusted for best performance
at the same frequency.
These adjustments interact to some
extent, so it’s a matter of repeating
these adjustments at both ends of the
dial until no further improvements
can be obtained.
By the way, the trimmers in this
model are made out of short lengths
of thick enamelled wire (about 30mm
long), each of which has several turns
of tinned copper wire wound onto it.
July 2003 85
This view shows the chassis from the front. The angled dial-scale is mounted on
an L-shaped bracket which is supported on the chassis base using a couple of
metal pillars.
The actual capacitance is varied by
altering the amount of tinned wire
over the enamelled wire. If you take
too much off, you will have to solder
more thin tinned copper wire onto the
end of the original winding.
This can be a messy business and
so most people tend to leave such
trimmers well alone. If the set does not
appear to be down in performance, I’d
also be inclined to leave them as they
are rather than risk it.
The shortwave band is aligned in
the same way as the broadcast band
except that the frequencies are higher. The low-frequency end should be
aligned at about 7MHz and the high
end at around 16MHz.
Note that on shortwave, problems
can arise with image reception and
this can upset the alignment. For
more detailed alignment procedures,
readers should refer to my article in
the February 2003 issue.
A walk-through the circuit
Fig.1 shows the circuit details of
the STC 205. The first thing to note
is that the antenna tuned circuits are
a little different to other receivers.
For starters, the broadcast-band antenna coil’s primary resonates below
the broadcast band and this gives
improved performance at the lowfrequency end of the dial.
In addition, trimmer C1 (for the
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high-frequency end of the dial) is
wired across the tops of the two wind
ings in the antenna coil. This boosts
the coupling from the antenna to the
tuned circuit, although it is unusual to
have the trimmer in this position. Most
sets have this trimmer going from the
grid of the RF valve to chassis.
By contrast, the shortwave coil has a
capacitor (C3) in series with its primary winding. A capacitor placed in this
position has the effect of electrically
shortening the antenna and perhaps
this was the intent. Using an “average” antenna of around 6-7 metres,
the antenna system would resonate
somewhere near the high end of the
shortwave band.
By the way, if you look carefully at
the two antenna coils you will see a
drafting error – both coils show the coil
adjustment in the untuned winding!
Someone didn’t spot this when checking the circuit diagram.
The oscillator circuit is conventional but there is a right royal blunder
in this circuit too! C13, which has
a value of 50nF (0.05µF), is shown
wired across the feedback windings
of both oscillator coils. However, if
this had really been done, the oscillator would have no feedback due to
the heavy damping of the winding by
the capacitor. The bottom end of C13
should in fact go to earth.
The IF stage is conventional and
uses a 6U7G followed by a 6B6G as a
combined detector, simple AGC and
first audio stage. The 6U7G and the
6B6G share a common cathode bias
resistor and common bypass capacitors. This is unusual, as the 6U7G
will draw less current as the AGC
voltage increases which will mean
that the voltage across R10 will also
drop. This in turn will reduce the bias
on the 6B6G and alter its operating
conditions.
It’s a strange design quirk that appears to have no redeeming features.
The audio output stage is also quite
conventional and uses a 6V6GT audio
output valve. However, I find it puzzling that cathode bias is not used in
this stage, as all other stages of the
receiver use this method. It would
also have been quite practical to use
back bias on all stages instead of just
the 6V6GT stage.
As with a great deal of other STC
equipment, the filter choke is in the
negative power supply lead. This reduces the voltage stress between the
www.siliconchip.com.au
Photo Gallery: Stromberg
Carlson Model 496 Receiver
VALVES
AUDIO HI-FI
AMATEUR RADIO
GUITAR AMPS
INDUSTRIAL
VINTAGE RADIO
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including high voltage capacitors,
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WE BUY, SELL and TRADE
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COMPANY
Manufactured by Stromberg Carlson (Sydney) in 1936, the Model 496 is a 4-valve
superhet housed in a substantial wooden mantel cabinet.
The set used a mixture of valve types which required individual 4V, 5V and 6V heater
windings on the transformer. The valve types used were: 6C6 (autodyne mixer), 6F7 (IF
amplifier and detector), AL3 (audio output) and 80 (rectifier).
The high-gain AL3, with its 4V heater and “P” type base, was probably chosen to compensate for the lack of a separate audio preamplifier stage. It would have been one of
the few high-gain output pentodes available at the time, with a “gm” nearly four times
that of the more commonly-used type 42.
The same chassis was also used in the Model 436 console receiver. (Photo: Historical
Radio Society of Australia, Inc).
choke frame and the winding. And
as is common in other receivers of
this vintage, there is no decoupling
between the audio output plate circuit
and the plate circuits of any other
amplifying stages. As far as I am con
cerned, this is poor design and can
lead to receiver instability.
Hopefully, the faults in mine were an
isolated occurrence.
In summary, this STC receiver is
quite different to many other sets,
particularly when it comes to cabinet
style. As such, it is a collectable item
if only because of its unique style.
Summary
In February 2003, page 81, second
column, the last two sentences in the
last full paragraph should be corrected
to read: “If it improves, more turns
are needed and if it gets worse, either
fewer turns are needed or the stage is
accurately tuned. A brass slug (from
an old volume control) inserted into
the coil should give a slight increase
in performance if the coil inductance
is too high”.
“If the performance deteriorates using
either the ferrite or brass slugs, the tuned
SC
circuit is accurately tuned”.
Although this set has a number of
less than perfect design features, its
performance is quite satisfactory and
it is quite a pleasant receiver to use.
The performance is typical of other
dual-wave 5-valve radios of the era.
And although it has nothing at all to do
with the operation of the set, the errors
in the circuit diagram are annoying
and indicate a lack of care in drafting
and checking.
Did this apply to the on-line testing of individual receivers as well?
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September 1996: VGA Oscilloscope, Pt.3; IR Stereo Headphone Link,
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February 1997: PC-Controlled Moving Message Display; Computer
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March 1997: Driving A Computer By Remote Control; Plastic Power
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November 1999: Setting Up An Email Server; Speed Alarm For Cars,
Pt.1; LED Christmas Tree; Intercom Station Expander; Foldback Loudspeaker System; Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.2.
December 1999: Solar Panel Regulator; PC Powerhouse (gives +12V,
+9V, +6V & +5V rails); Fortune Finder Metal Locator; Speed Alarm For
Cars, Pt.2; Railpower Model Train Controller, Pt.3; Index To Vol.12.
January 2000: Spring Reverberation Module; An Audio-Video Test
Generator; Build The Picman Programmable Robot; A Parallel Port
Interface Card; Off-Hook Indicator For Telephone Lines.
February 2000: Multi-Sector Sprinkler Controller; A Digital Voltmeter
For Your Car; An Ultrasonic Parking Radar; Build A Safety Switch
Checker; Build A Sine/Square Wave Oscillator.
In & Switch Devices On & Off; L’il Snooper – A Low-Cost Automatic
Camera Switcher; Using Linux To Share An Internet Connection, Pt.2;
A PC To Die For, Pt.1 (Building Your Own PC).
July 2001: The HeartMate Heart Rate Monitor; Do Not Disturb Telephone
Timer; Pic-Toc – A Simple Alarm Clock; Fast Universal Battery Charger,
Pt.2; A PC To Die For, Pt.2; Backing Up Your Email.
August 2001: DI Box For Musicians; 200W Mosfet Amplifier Module;
Headlight Reminder; 40MHz 6-Digit Frequency Counter Module; A PC
To Die For, Pt.3; Using Linux To Share An Internet Connection, Pt.3.
September 2001: Making MP3s – Rippers & Encoders; Build Your Own
MP3 Jukebox, Pt.1; PC-Controlled Mains Switch; Personal Noise Source
For Tinnitus Sufferers; The Sooper Snooper Directional Microphone;
Using Linux To Share An Internet Connection, Pt.4.
November 2001: Ultra-LD 100W RMS/Channel Stereo Amplifier, Pt.1;
Neon Tube Modulator For Cars; Low-Cost Audio/Video Distribution
Amplifier; Short Message Recorder Player; Computer Tips.
December 2001: A Look At Windows XP; Build A PC Infrared Transceiver; Ultra-LD 100W RMS/Ch Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2; Pardy Lights
– An Intriguing Colour Display; PIC Fun – Learning About Micros.
January 2002: Touch And/Or Remote-Controlled Light Dimmer, Pt.1; A
Cheap ’n’Easy Motorbike Alarm; 100W RMS/Channel Stereo Amplifier,
Pt.3; Build A Raucous Alarm; FAQs On The MP3 Jukebox.
February 2002: 10-Channel IR Remote Control Receiver; 2.4GHz
High-Power Audio-Video Link; Assemble Your Own 2-Way Tower
Speakers; Touch And/Or Remote-Controlled Light Dimmer, Pt.2;
Booting A PC Without A Keyboard; 4-Way Event Timer.
March 2002: Mighty Midget Audio Amplifier Module; The Itsy-Bitsy
USB Lamp; 6-Channel IR Remote Volume Control, Pt.1; RIAA Pre-Amplifier For Magnetic Cartridges; 12/24V Intelligent Solar Power
Battery Charger; Generate Audio Tones Using Your PC’s Soundcard.
April 2002:Automatic Single-Channel Light Dimmer; Pt.1; Build A
Water Level Indicator; Multiple-Output Bench Power Supply; Versatile
Multi-Mode Timer; 6-Channel IR Remote Volume Control, Pt.2.
May 2002: 32-LED Knightrider; The Battery Guardian (Cuts Power When
the Battery Voltage Drops); Stereo Headphone Amplifier; Automatic
Single-Channel Light Dimmer; Pt.2; Stepper Motor Controller.
June 2002: Lock Out The Bad Guys with A Firewall; Remote Volume
Control For Stereo Amplifiers; The “Matchless” Metal Locator; Compact
0-80A Automotive Ammeter; Constant High-Current Source.
July 2002: Telephone Headset Adaptor; Rolling Code 4-Channel UHF
Remote Control; Remote Volume Control For The Ultra-LD Stereo
Amplifier; Direct Conversion Receiver For Radio Amateurs, Pt.1.
March 2000: Resurrecting An Old Computer; Low Distortion 100W
Amplifier Module, Pt.1; Electronic Wind Vane With 16-LED Display;
Glowplug Driver For Powered Models; The OzTrip Car Computer, Pt.1.
August 2002: Digital Instrumentation Software For Your PC; Digital
Storage Logic Probe; Digital Thermometer/Thermostat; Sound Card
Interface For PC Test Instruments; Direct Conversion Receiver For Radio
Amateurs, Pt.2; Spruce Up Your PC With XP-Style Icons.
May 2000: Ultra-LD Stereo Amplifier, Pt.2; Build A LED Dice (With
PIC Microcontroller); Low-Cost AT Keyboard Translator (Converts
IBM Scan-Codes To ASCII); 50A Motor Speed Controller For Models.
September 2002: 12V Fluorescent Lamp Inverter; 8-Channel Infrared
Remote Control; 50-Watt DC Electronic Load; Driving Light & Accessory
Protector For Cars; Spyware – An Update.
June 2000: Automatic Rain Gauge With Digital Readout; Parallel Port
VHF FM Receiver; Li’l Powerhouse Switchmode Power Supply (1.23V
to 40V) Pt.1; CD Compressor For Cars Or The Home.
October 2002: Speed Controller For Universal Motors; PC Parallel
Port Wizard; “Whistle & Point” Cable Tracer; Build An AVR ISP Serial
Programmer; Watch 3D TV In Your Own Home.
July 2000: A Moving Message Display; Compact Fluorescent Lamp
Driver; El-Cheapo Musicians’ Lead Tester; Li’l Powerhouse Switchmode
Power Supply (1.23V to 40V) Pt.2.
November 2002: SuperCharger For NiCd/NiMH Batteries, Pt.1; Windows-Based EPROM Programmer, Pt.1; 4-Digit Crystal-Controlled
Timing Module; Using Linux To Share An Optus Cable Modem, Pt.1.
August 2000: Build A Theremin For Really Eeerie Sounds; Come In
Spinner (writes messages in “thin-air”); Proximity Switch For 240VAC
Lamps; Structured Cabling For Computer Networks.
December 2002: Receiving TV From Satellites; Pt.1; The Micromitter
Stereo FM Transmitter; Windows-Based EPROM Programmer, Pt.2;
SuperCharger For NiCd/NiMH Batteries; Pt.2; Simple VHF FM/AM Radio;
Using Linux To Share An Optus Cable Modem, Pt.2.
September 2000: Build A Swimming Pool Alarm; An 8-Channel PC
Relay Board; Fuel Mixture Display For Cars, Pt.1; Protoboards – The
Easy Way Into Electronics, Pt.1; Cybug The Solar Fly.
October 2000: Guitar Jammer For Practice & Jam Sessions; Booze
Buster Breath Tester; A Wand-Mounted Inspection Camera; Installing
A Free-Air Subwoofer In Your Car; Fuel Mixture Display For Cars, Pt.2.
November 2000: Santa & Rudolf Chrissie Display; 2-Channel Guitar
Preamplifier, Pt.1; Message Bank & Missed Call Alert; Protoboards –
The Easy Way Into Electronics, Pt.3.
December 2000: Home Networking For Shared Internet Access; Build
A Bright-White LED Torch; 2-Channel Guitar Preamplifier, Pt.2 (Digital
Reverb); Driving An LCD From The Parallel Port; Index To Vol.13.
January 2003: Receiving TV From Satellites, Pt 2; SC480 50W RMS
Amplifier Module, Pt.1; Gear Indicator For Cars; Active 3-Way Crossover
For Speakers; Using Linux To Share An Optus Cable Modem, Pt.3.
February 2003: The PortaPal Public Address System, Pt.1; 240V
Mains Filter For HiFi Systems; SC480 50W RMS Amplifier Module,
Pt.2; Windows-Based EPROM Programmer, Pt.3; Using Linux To
Share An Optus Cable Modem, Pt.4; Tracking Down Elusive PC Faults.
March 2003: LED Lighting For Your Car; Peltier-Effect Tinnie Cooler;
PortaPal Public Address System, Pt.2; 12V SLA Battery Float Charger;
Build The Little Dynamite Subwoofer; Fun With The PICAXE (Build A
Shop Door Minder); SuperCharger Addendum; Emergency Beacons.
January 2001: How To Transfer LPs & Tapes To CD; The LP Doctor –
Clean Up Clicks & Pops, Pt.1; Arbitrary Waveform Generator; 2-Channel
Guitar Preamplifier, Pt.3; PIC Programmer & TestBed.
April 2003: Video-Audio Booster For Home Theatre Systems; A Highly-Flexible Keypad Alarm; Telephone Dialler For Burglar Alarms; Three
Do-It-Yourself PIC Programmer Kits; More Fun With The PICAXE, Pt.3
(Heartbeat Simulator); Electric Shutter Release For Cameras.
February 2001: An Easy Way To Make PC Boards; L’il Pulser Train
Controller; A MIDI Interface For PCs; Build The Bass Blazer; 2-Metre
Groundplane Antenna; The LP Doctor – Clean Up Clicks & Pops, Pt.2.
May 2003: Widgybox Guitar Distortion Effects Unit; 10MHz Direct Digital Synthesis Generator; Big Blaster Subwoofer; Printer Port Simulator;
More Fun With The PICAXE, Pt.4 (Motor Controller).
March 2001: Making Photo Resist PC Boards; Big-Digit 12/24 Hour
Clock; Parallel Port PIC Programmer & Checkerboard; Protoboards –
The Easy Way Into Electronics, Pt.5; A Simple MIDI Expansion Box.
June 2003: More Fun With The PICAXE, Pt.5 (Chookhouse Door
Controller); PICAXE-Controlled Telephone Intercom; PICAXE-08 Port
Expansion; Sunset Switch For Security & Garden Lighting; Digital
Reaction Timer; Adjustable DC-DC Converter For Cars; Long-Range
4-Channel UHF Remote Control.
April 2001: A GPS Module For Your PC; Dr Video – An Easy-To-Build
Video Stabiliser; Tremolo Unit For Musicians; Minimitter FM Stereo
Transmitter; Intelligent Nicad Battery Charger.
May 2001: Powerful 12V Mini Stereo Amplifier; Two White-LED Torches
To Build; PowerPak – A Multi-Voltage Power Supply; Using Linux To
Share An Internet Connection, Pt.1; Tweaking Windows With TweakUI.
June 2001: Fast Universal Battery Charger, Pt.1; Phonome – Call, Listen
PLEASE NOTE: Issues not listed have sold out. All other issues are
in stock. We can supply photostat copies from sold-out issues for
$8.80 per article (includes p&p). When supplying photostat articles
or back copies, we automatically supply any relevant notes & errata
at no extra charge. A complete index to all articles published to date
can be downloaded free from our web site: www.siliconchip.com.au
July 2003 89
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Write to: Ask Silicon Chip, PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097; or
send an email to silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
Motor speed controller
for 120VAC
I have purchased a Universal Motor
Speed Controller from Jaycar Electronics, as published in the October
2002 issue of SILICON CHIP. I live in
the USA and of course will be using
it with 120VAC line voltage.
Will it work OK using 120VAC? If
not, what modifications do I need to
make to the circuit? (R. W., Torrance,
CA, USA).
• Operation at 120V and 60Hz will
require one resistor change. Substitute
a 56kΩ 1W resistor for the 100kΩ 1W
resistor. That is all there is to it.
12V LED light
wanted
You have had two torch projects
based on LEDs (December 2000 and
May 2001) and the last one was terrific.
I would like to see a lamp made out of
three LEDs that runs off 12V. I think
that there would be a huge amount of
interest in such a lamp because there
are a lot of situations where this could
be used.
Every boat, motor home and caravan
owner would love the low consump-
Noise in Playmaster
Pro Series Three
I built the Playmaster Pro Series
Three power amplifier some time
ago and have greatly enjoyed its
terrific performance. About a year
ago, I became aware that the clipping warning LED on one channel
was lighting, even though there was
no discernible distortion and the
music volume was usually very low.
As time progressed, noise did
become evident in the channel –
initially a very slight crackle, which
has gradually increased to a point
that the sound is no longer acceptable. The fault is certainly within
90 Silicon Chip
tion with the lovely crisp white light
that these devices put out.
I would like to know whether you
would do such a project. If not, could
you please give me some pointers as
to how to go about it? Would a simple
current limiting circuit be the best
way? (N. Z., via email).
• Running three white LEDs from 12V
is easy – just connect them in series
via a 56Ω 0.25W resistor.
dwellers since the chirp of the horn
on earlier systems would have woken
and annoyed many people.
If you want to fit an audible chirp
device, you could wire a high output
piezo siren across the master solenoid
in the central locking system. No other
circuitry would be required.
Ford AU audible
car locking
I have just begun restoring an
AWA Fisk Radiola model R38. I first
replaced both high voltage electrolytics, which were con
tained in a
metal case covered in black ‘goo’. As I
have a High Voltage Insulation Tester
(SILICON CHIP, May 1996), I began
to test some of the paper capacitors.
These all showed resistances below
1 Gig-ohm.
I then tested a variety of capacitors in my ‘spare parts’ box, which
included paper capacitors from the
1960s as well as modern high-voltage
types. I was surprised by the wide
variation in resistances measured.
Many of the older (unused) paper
capaci
t ors showed resistances of
only a few Gigohms, especially those
labelled UCC.
So I am concerned whether
non-electrolytic capacitors should
be considered good only if their measured resistance is well in excess of 1
Gigohm, especially for use in older
valve radios.
And in a probably rather unwise
move, after simple DMM checks I applied (for only a few seconds) mains
power to the R38. With only the 80
rectifier inserted, the inside of the
valve glowed a pretty blue (corona discharge?) and I immediately removed
power. It is a long time since I have
observed a working 80 rectifier valve
but I suspect that the blue discharge
is not a good sign? (R. R., Ocean Reef,
WA).
• As far as valve circuits are concerned, insulation resistance of
non-electrolytic capacitors is only
An annoying issue with the Ford
AU model (and probably other cars)
is that when you lock or unlock the
car using the remote keypad, the only
acknowledgement is the single or
double flashing of all the indicators.
On a sunny day, this is difficult to see
and usually involves getting closer to
see the lights or looking at the door
button position.
Can you suggest an audible “beeper”
modification to this model – allowing
both visual and audible confirmation
of remote locking. (M. D., via email).
• Most modern cars with central
locking do not have any audible indication – and a good thing too for city
the amplifier, as I have swapped
inputs and speaker connections.
The electros in the amplifier circuit have been replaced to no avail.
There is a sizeable dent in the side
of one of the reservoir capacitors in
the power supply, however no trace
of 50Hz in the output. Any idea
what’s going on? (R. C., via email).
• Our guess is that the amplifier is
taking off at a very high frequency.
You might need a wideband scope
or a communications radio (even
an FM radio) to confirm this. A
cure probably involves resolder
ing all connections around the
Mosfets or replacing the low value
capacitors.
Insulation resistance
of capacitors
www.siliconchip.com.au
critical if they are involved in coupling
signals from the valve plates to the grid
of a following stage. In this situation,
if a capacitor had an insulation resistance of 100MΩ (say) it could severely
affect the grid bias on the following
stage. You would want the capacitor
to be at least 1Gigohm.
Modern polyester capacitors could
be expected to be in excess of 50GΩ or
a lot more. Polystyrene capacitors are
typically 1TΩ or more (ie, 1 Teraohm
or 1000Gigohms).
On the other hand, if the capacitor
is used in a bypass, tuning or tone
control stage, where it cannot affect
valve oper
ating conditions, 100MΩ
would be OK. However, you might
still replace to it to avoid failure in
the future.
Any valve with a blue discharge is
gassy – it’s kaput.
Driving An Inductive PA Loop
I am responsible for the public
address system in our church but I
had no part in the botched installation of the current PA/inductive
loop system.
The current amplifier is supposedly capable of driving 190W
into a 2-ohm load. This is probably
“peak music power” as the internal componentry does not seem
capable of producing more than
about 50W.
While it appeared to work initially, the inductive loop has long
since ceased to function and I am
told that you cannot feed two turns
with a total length of just over
102 metres from a direct amplifier
output. This has a resistance of between 4Ω and 5Ω. The impedance
is undoubtedly considerably less.
This has been proven by driving
the loop through the original amplifier, a 30W impedance-matched
PA unit with a 100V line transformer. It does the job adequately
although we are pushing it to its
upper limits. The input winding
of the transformer reads approximately 0.7Ω and probably has
an impedance of 8Ω. The output
windings provide 100V line and
4, 8, & 16W.
Incidentally, this amplifier has
a 60V supply rail (measured at the
filter capacitor) and uses two 2SC
1030 (TO3 packages) as the drivers.
I am proposing to use the SC480
as the replacement loop driver am-
Twisted wires in
Ultra-LD amplifier
I completed the Ultra-LD Amplifier
a few months ago and it sounds great;
certainly well worth the money and
aside from a few small glitches, worth
the construction time. Excellent!
I have a comment about the design
of the LED display. Apart from the
dubious value in terms of extra cost
and construction time, I was intrigued
with the comments made about preamplifier modifications, on page 72 of
the January 2002 issue.
My kit had the mentioned modification but it is still susceptible to humidity effects on power-up, but then
again it is quite humid here in Port
Vila and high electricity costs prohibit
using long-term air conditioners. So
why not design a special calibrated
tropical version with the LEDs displaying humidity for about a minute
after power up and then reverting to
its other role?
Finally, I have a small concern with
the construction instructions on page
66 the of January 2002 edition which
describes the twisting of connecting
wires. I feel that an essential aspect
affecting sound quality may have been
omitted here. I had already assembled
the unit when this occurred to me; too
late to change. Should the left channel
wire pairs be twisted opposite to the
right channel? Are there any reported studies on effects of wire helicity
and sound quality? (D. S., Port Vila,
Vanuatu).
www.siliconchip.com.au
•
Have a look at the revised preamp
board with remote motorised volume
control in the June & July 2002 issues.
This address
es the humidity issue
although it does not display it.
Direction of twist of wiring is not
important – the idea is to cancel the
magnetic fields generated by the current flow.
Troubleshooting the
video enhancer
I have a problem with the Video
Enhancer and Stabiliser published in
the November 1997 issue of “Electronics Australia” and which is similar
in layout to the Dr Video project in
plifier. The coupling capacitor in
the 30W unit is 2200µF 50V. This
is polarised, although I would have
expected it to be bipolar. Is there
any problem with using the SC480
in this role? Information regarding
the use of available impedance
matching transformers is very hard
to come by.
The impedance matching transformer under consideration is
listed in the Altronics catalog on
page 191 (Cat M-1136). This is a
60W unit, although a lower rating
could be appropriate. (W. M., Kapunda, SA).
• If your inductive loop has a DC
resistance of 4-5Ω you can certainly
drive it with the SC480 or with any
other direct-coupled amplifier for
that matter, provided it is rated for
a 4-ohm load. The connection from
the amplifier to the loop should be
direct, not via a transformer and
capacitor, as in your suggested
circuit.
If you want the SC480 to drive
a transformer load, we just coincidentally have a circuit for doing
that in this month’s Circuit Notebook pages. If you want a higher
power amplifier which will drive
a 100V line output transformer,
have a look at the Plastic Power PA
amplifier described in the March
1997 issue. However note that this
amplifier cannot drive a 100V line
transformer and an inductive loop
as well (nor can the SC480).
the April 2001 issue of SILICON CHIP.
The problem is in the stabiliser part
of the circuit.
When video signal is running
through the unit, I see on the scope the
negative-going vertical sync pulses at
pin 3 of U3, a positive pulse of 5V at
pin 3 or U2a and these pass though U4
(555) OK and appear at pin 4 of U2b.
The pulse is 1.1ms and is adjustable
by RV1.
However, the output at pin 5 of U3
does not seem to be correct in that I am
not seeing a positive pulse at pin 11 of
U2d of any significance. I would have
thought that I would see a 5V pulse but
am seeing nothing like it.
I have changed U3 and U2 and
July 2003 91
Overload problem in
Mosfet amplifier
I have built a stereo power amplifier using Hitachi Mosfet devices
(2SK1058 and 2SJ162) in the output
stage. With the 2SJ162s, I am having trouble with severe distortion
developing after a few seconds at
maximum power into a 4Ω resistive load (I assume the devices are
having “severe hernias” as they go
into overload).
This is occurring with each
device supplying about 5A (peak
current). This is below the specifications which state that the device
should be able to supply 7A max.
As stated above, this is occurring
only on the negative signal swings.
I was wondering if you know
of any suspect “clones” that are
circulating in the guise of Hitachi
devices? They are TO3-P type. (G.
G., via email).
• Without knowing anything
about the circuit you have built, it
is possible that the output stage is
checked components, etc. Could you
please advise me what I should be
seeing on the scope at U3 pin5 and
U2d pin11? Is it a pulse that reaches
5V and what it is its timing duration?
(R. F., via email).
• You should be seeing a negative-going pulse at pin 5 of the
LM1881 (U3), with an amplitude of
nearly 5V and a duration of about 4µs.
You should also be seeing a positive
version of the same pulse at pin 11
of U2d, to operate switches U1a/b
and trigger U5.
Finally, if U5 is triggering properly
from this pulse (which corresponds to
the colour burst and horizontal ‘back
oscillating at very high frequencies,
possibly at 100MHz or more (yep,
way up in the FM band). You need
to check this with an oscilloscope.
If you don’t have one, or your scope
does not have a 100MHz capability,
a check with a communications
receiver or even an FM radio may
indicate a high level of radiation.
If your scope has low bandwidth, you may observe apparent
clipping or distortion of the waveform. When you use a scope with
sufficiently wide bandwidth, this
will be revealed as a large burst of
oscillation superimposed on the
waveform.
We think it is unlikely that you
have suspect Mosfets. It is not
commonly known that Mosfet
amplifiers can be susceptible to
supersonic oscillation and it can
be quite difficult to “tame” them.
The problem may be due to the PC
board and general wiring layout.
You may also need stopper resistors
(try 100Ω) in series with each gate
to cure the problem.
porch’ of each line), you should see
pulses about 50µs long at TP2 and
pin 3 of U5, again of about 5V peak
amplitude.
From your description it’s hard to
suggest what may be going wrong if
none of these pulses is present, and
you’ve already tried replacing U3, U2
and many of the components around
them.
You could try reducing the value of
U3’s input series resistor R5, to 560Ω
or 470Ω. We understand that in one
or two cases in the past, transistor
Q1 has had a high enough output
impedance to add significantly to R5
and caused excessive attenuation of
the higher frequency video and sync
components reaching U3. In turn,
this seems to have prevented U3 from
producing the colour burst pulses at
pin 5.
Perhaps this is also the case with
your unit, so it’s worth reducing the
value of R5 a little to see if that cures
the problem.
Turbo timer
playing up
I have recently purchased a Turbo
Timer kit from Jaycar Electronics. All
is installed (on a 1993 Mitsubishi
Lancer GSR) but I have a problem
– if the engine is running and then
switched off, it stops.
Investigations show that the timer
does not even attempt to operate. If I
just turn the ignition on but do not start
the engine, when the key is turned off
the Turbo Timer responds as it should
and it leaves the ignition on for the
required time.
I have left the thermal circuit open
such that the circuit thinks the engine
is hot. The reset circuit works fine. It
seems that the engine (either ignition
spark or alternator?) are resetting the
timer at switch off. Can you please
help? (L. C., via email).
• Try changing the 2.2µF capacitor
at pin 2 of IC1 to 100µF or if this still
gives problems, to 470µF. This will
provide a timing trigger when the
ignition voltage falls slowly.
Notes & Errata
Sunset Switch, June 2003: the 10µF
capacitor connected from the +12V rail
to the emitter of Q1 has been omitted
from the circuit diagram on page 36.
The wiring diagram (Fig.3) is correct.
Also, four 10µF capacitors have been
SC
omitted from the Parts List.
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be
carried out according to the instructions in the articles. When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do
not accidentally come into contact with mains AC voltages or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects
employing mains voltages or other high voltages, you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd
disclaims any liability for damages should anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of
SILICON CHIP magazine. Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any
liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims
any liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant government regulations and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the Trade
Practices Act 1974 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are applicable.
92 Silicon Chip
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www.siliconchip.com.au
UNIVERSAL DEVICE PROGRAMMER: Low cost, high performance,
48-pin, works in DOS or Windows incl.
NT/2000. $1364. Universal EPROM
programmer $467.50. Also adaptors,
(E)EPROM, PIC, 8051 programmers,
EPROM simulator and eraser.
Dunfield C Compilers: Everything you
need to develop C and ASM software
for 68HC08, 6809, 68HC11, 68HC12,
68HC16, 8051/52, 8080/85, 8086, 8096
or AVR: $198 each. Demo disk available.
ImageCraft C Compilers: 32-bit Windows IDE and compiler. For AVR, 68HC
08, 68HC11, 68HC12, 68HC16. $385.00
Atmel Flash CPU Programmer: Handles the 89Cx051, 89C5x, 89Sxx in
both DIP and PLCC44 and some AVR’s,
most 8-pin EEPROMS. Includes socket
for serial ISP cable. $220, $11 p&p.
SOIC adaptors: 20 pin $132.00, 14 pin
$126.50, 8 pin $121.00.
Full details on web site. Credit cards
accepted.
GRANTRONICS PTY LTD, PO Box 275,
Wentworthville 2145. (02) 9896 7150 or
http://www.grantronics.com.au
July 2003 93
Silicon Chip
Binders
New New New
Mark22-SM
Slimline Mini FM R/C Receiver
REAL
VALUE
AT
$12.95
PLUS P
&
P
Heavy board covers with 2-tone
green vinyl covering
SILICON CHIP logo printed in
goldcoloured lettering on spine & cover
Price: $A12.95 plus $A5.50 p&p each
(Australia only; not available elsewhere). Buy five and get them postage
free.
Just fill in & mail the handy order form
in this issue; or fax (02) 9979 6503;
or ring (02) 9979 5644 & quote your
credit card number.
speakerbits.com.au
•
•
•
•
•
6 Channels
10kHz frequency separation
Size: 55 x 23 x 20mm
Weight: 25gm
Modular Construction
Price: $A129.50 with crystal
Electronics
PO Box 580, Riverwood, NSW 2210.
Ph/Fax (02) 9533 3517
email: youngbob<at>silvertone.com.au
Website: www.silvertone.com.au
TAIG MACHINERY
Micro Mini Lathes and Mills
From $489.00
59 Gilmore Crescent
Garran ACT 2605
(02) 6281 5660
0412269707
& MADE TO ORDER PCBs
For more details: www.acetronics.com.au
Phone (02) 9600 6832
email: acetronics<at>acetronics.com.au
SPEAKER AND HOME THEATRE
SUPPLIES. New and Secondhand
Speaker Drivers. Speaker Repairs and
Kits. Projectors and Screens. Delivery
anywhere in Australia. Melb. (03) 5986
1128; www.penhometheatre.com.au
ANTENNAS 2.4GHz: low cost, hobby
antennas for ‘WiFi’ wireless networking.
Directional (6, 12, 29dBi) and omni
directionals (8, 11, 14dBi). Custom
low-loss cables & pigtails also available.
http://www.erlang-software.com/
FreeNet/ForSale
94 Silicon Chip
Foam surrounds,voice coils,cones and more
Original parts for Dynaudio,Tannoy and others
Expert speaker repairs – 20 years experience
Australian agents for
products
Trade welcome – email for your user ID
Phone (03) 9682 2487
Need
prototype PC boards?
We have the solutions – we print electronics!
Four-day turnaround, less if urgent; Artwork from your own
positive or file; Through hole plating; Prompt postal service; 29
years technical experience; Inexpensive; Superb quality.
Printed Electronics, 12A Aristoc Rd,
Glen Waverley, Vic 3150.
Phone: (03) 9545 3722;
Fax: (03) 9545 3561
Call Mike Lynch and check us out!
We are the best for low cost, small runs.
USB KITS: Stepper Motor Controller,
DTMF Transceiver, Thermometer, DDS
HF Generator, Compass, 4-Channel
Voltmeter, I/O Relay Card. Also available: Digital Oscilloscope, Temperature
Loggers, VHF Receivers and USB Active X (and USBDOS.exe file) to control
our kits from your application.
www.ar.com.au/~softmark
GOLDSTAR OS-7040A 40 MHZ OSCILLOSCOPE: as new. Very little use
and in new condition, for sale <at> $450.00
ONO. Also spectrum analyzer 100KHz
Catalog 17078. Industrial Motherboard. 533MHz
Front Side Bus, plus on-board Watch Dog Timer and
Ethernet. This is a “well sorted” quality industrial
board. For more detail: phone Microgram Computers
(02) 4389 8444 or www.mgram.com.au
- 1GHz by ITC USA, new condition <at>
$900.00 ONO. Contact 0418 229000
for details.
Leader Modbus Data Acquisition
Modules analog inputs, RTD, Thermocouple, analog outputs, digital Inputs
and output modules
Labjack USB Data Acquisition Module features 8 12bit analog inputs, 20
digital I/O, 2 analog outputs and high
speed counter. Free software, Labview
driver and ActiveX component.
DAS005 Parallel Port Data Acquisition Module features 8 12bit Analog
inputs, 4 Digital I/Ps & 4 Digital O/Ps.
Free windows software and source code.
Dual Relay Modules suitable for TTL
and Open Collector Outputs
Programmers for Atmel and PIC microcontrollers.
Switch Mode and Linear Power Supplies
and DC-DC convertors.
FAB Programmable Logic Controllers. Low cost, high performance.
Programming software and SCADA
software free. Heaps of features.
Full details and credit card ordering
available at www.oceancontrols.
com.au
PCBs MADE, ONE OR MANY. Any
format, hobbyists welcome. Sesame
Electronics (02) 9586 4771.
sesame777<at>optusnet.com.au; http://
members.tripod.com/~sesame_elec
BUY FROM HONKERS, PAY IN OZ.
Get many common passives, ICs and
LCDs direct from Hong Kong but pay in
Oz. http://www.kitsrus.com/kits.html
www.siliconchip.com.au
Do You Eat, Breathe and Sleep Technology?
Management & Sales Positions
We are a rapidly growing, Australian-owned international retailer with more than 30 stores
in Australia and we have a growing expansion program to open many more, so we need
dedicated individuals to join our team to help achieve our goals.
If you are customer focused, have an eye for detail, empathy for the products we sell and have
recently completed a TAFE of University degree in electronics, we want to meet you.
Career opportunities with full training are available now if you have the drive and ambition to
make your future with Jaycar.
We offer a competitive salary, sales commission and many other benefits. To apply for these
positions please send your C.V. indicating the role you are interested in to the address shown
below.
Retail Operations Manager
Jaycar Electronics Pty. Ltd.
P.O. Box 6424
Silverwater NSW 1811
Fax: (02) 9741-8530
Email: jobs<at>jaycar.com.au
Jaycar Electronics is
an equal opportunity
employer and actively
promotes staff from
within the organisation.
Advertising Index
Acetronics....................................94
Altronics........................ loose insert
Av-Comm Pty Ltd.........................95
BitScope Designs.........................67
Carba-Tec Tools...........................95
Clarke & Severn...........................67
Dick Smith Electronics........... 18-21
Eco Watch....................................93
Elan Audio....................................31
Evatco..........................................87
Futurlec........................................55
Building speaker boxes? Mounting
electrical components onto solid
timber? You may need the Carba–
tecTOOLS FOR WOOD catalogue!!
We have Australia’s largest range of
woodworking handtools & machinery.
Please contact us for your FREE 220
page colour catalogue or come in &
see us at:
32 PERCY AUBURN 2144 9649 5077 www.carbatec.com.au
Microzed.com.au
PIC/AXE CHIP SPECIALIST
PO Box 634 ARMIDALE 2350 (296 North Cooke’s Rd)
Ph: (02) 6772 2777 – may time out to Mobile 0438 277 634.
Fax: (02) 6772 8987
Satellite TV Reception
International satellite TV
reception in your home
is now affordable. Send
for your free info pack
containing equipment
catalog, satellite lists,
etc or call for appointment to view. We can
display all satellites from 76.5° to 180°.
AV-COMM P/L, 24/9 Powells Rd,
Brookvale, NSW 2100.
Tel: 02 9939 4377 or 9939 4378.
Fax: 9939 4376; www.avcomm.com.au
S-Video . . . Video . . . Audio . . . VGA
distribution amps, splitters, standards
converters, tbc’s, switchers, cables, etc,
& price list: www.questronix.com.au
RCS HAS MOVED to 41 Arlewis St,
Chester Hill 2162 and is now open,
with full production. Tel (02) 9738 0330;
Fax 9738 0334. rcsradio<at>cia.com.au;
www.cia.com.au/rcsradio
KIT ASSEMBLY
NEVILLE WALKER KIT ASSEMBLY
& REPAIR:
• Australia wide service
• Small production runs
• Specialist “one-off” applications
Phone Neville Walker (07) 3857 2752
Email: flashdog<at>optusnet.com.au
Harbuch Electronics.....................53
Instant PCBs................................95
Hy-Q International........................67
Jaycar .............................. 45-52,95
JED Microprocessors................5,67
Kalex............................................87
Microgram Computers..............3,94
MicroZed Computers.........67,77,95
Procon Technology.......................67
Quest Electronics....................67,94
RCS Radio..............................67,95
RF Probes....................................87
Leak, Pye, Lowther, Ortofon, SME,
Western Electric, Altec, Marantz,
McIntosh, Goodmans, Wharfedale,
Tannoy, radio and wireless. Collector/
Hobbyist will pay cash. (02) 9440 1267.
johnmurt<at>highprofile.com.au
Silicon Chip Back Issues........ 88-89
Silicon Chip Binders................28,72
Silicon Chip Bookshop..........96,IBC
SC Car Projects Book.........39,OBC
Silicon Chip Subscriptions...........73
SC Testbench Book......................63
Silicon Chip
Circuit Ideas Wanted
AMPEX 351-2 Valve Stereo Tape
Recorder. Any condition considered.
Please phone Peter Watson on (07)
4622 3968 or email:
pwaudio<at>bigpond.com.au
EARLY HIFI’S, AMPLIFIERS, Speakers, Turntables, Valves, Books ; Quad,
Silicon Chip Publications,
PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097.
www.siliconchip.com.au
Grantronics..................................93
Printed Electronics...................... 94
Do you have a good circuit idea?
If so, sketch it out, write a brief
description of its operation & send
it to us. Provided your idea is
workable & original, we’ll publish it
in Circuit Notebook & you’ll make
some money. We pay up to $60 for
a good circuit so send your idea to:
WANTED
Gadget Central...........................IFC
Silvertone Electronics..................94
Soundlabs Group.........................67
Speakerbits..................................94
Taig Machinery.............................94
Telelink Communications.............67
_________________________________
PC Boards
Printed circuit boards for SILICON
CHIP projects are made by:
RCS Radio Pty Ltd. Phone (02) 9738
0330. Fax (02) 9738 0334.
July 2003 95
REFERENCE
GREAT BOOKS FOR
ALL PRICES INCLUDE GST AND ARE
AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN HANDBOOK
PIC Your Personal Introductory Course
A handbook for professionals and students
from one of the world’s most respected
audio authorities. New edition is more
comprehensive than ever with a new
chapter on Class G amplifiers and
further new material on output coils,
thermal distortion, relay distortion,
ground loops, triple EF output stages and
convection cooling. 427 pages in paperback.
Concise and practical guide to getting up and
running with the PIC Microcontroller. Assumes no
prior knowledge of microcontrollers, introduces
the PIC’s capabilities through simple projects.
Ideal introduction for students, teachers, technicians and electronics enthusiasts – perfect for
use in schools and colleges. 270 pages in soft
cover.
by Douglas Self 3rd Edition 2002
89
$
by John Morton – 2nd edition 2001
NEW
NEW
NEW
NEW
46
$$
VIDEO SCRAMBLING AND DESCRAMBLING
AUDIO ELECTRONICS
If you've ever wondered how they scramble
video on cable and satellite TV, this book tells
you! Encoding/decoding systems (analog
and digital systems), encryption, even
schematics and details of several encoder
and decoder circuits for experimentation.
Intended for both the hobbyist and the
professional. 290 pages in paperback.
For anyone involved in designing, adapting and
using analog and digital audio equipment. It
covers tape recording, tuners and radio receivers,
preamplifiers, voltage amplifiers, audio power
amplifiers, compact disc technology and digital
audio, test and measurement, loudspeaker
crossover systems, power supplies and noise
reduction systems. 375 pages in soft cover.
By John Linsley Hood. First published 1995.
Second edition 1999.
FOR SATELLITE AND CABLE TV
by Graf & Sheets
2nd Edition 1998
4th
EDITION
$
70
87
$
EMC FOR PRODUCT DESIGNERS
3rd
EDITION
UNDERSTANDING TELEPHONE ELECTRONICS
By Stephen J. Bigelow. 4th edition 2001
Based mainly on the American telephone system, this book covers conventional telephone
fundamentals, including analog and digital
communication techniques. Provides basic information on the functions of each telephone
component, how dial tones are generated and
how digital transmission techniques work.
402 pages, soft cover.
103
$$
By Eugene Trundle. 3rd Edition 2001
3rd
EDITION
Eugene Trundle has written for many years in
Television magazine and his latest book is right
up to date on TV and video technology. includes
both theory and practical servicing information
and is ideal for both students and technicians.
382 pages, in paperback.
Widely regarded as the standard text on
EMC, provides all the key information needed
to meet the requirements of the EMC Directive.
Most importantly, it shows how to incorporate
EMC principles into the product design process, avoiding cost and performance penalties,
meeting the needs of specific standards and
resulting in a better overall product. 360 pages
in paperback.
63
$
By Ian Hickman. 2nd edition1999.
Essential reading for electronics designers and
students alike. It will answer nagging questions
about core analog theory and design principles
as well as offering practical design ideas. With
concise design implementations, with many of
the circuits taken from Ian Hickman’s magazine
articles. 294 pages in soft cover.
by Dogan Ibrahim. Published 2000.
by Steve Roberts. 2nd edition 2001.
Based mainly on British practice and first published in 1997, this book has much that is relevant to Australian systems as a guide to home
and small business installations. A practical
guide to installation of telephone wiring, ranging
from single extension sockets to PABX, with the
necessary tools, test equipment and materials
needed by installers. 178 pages in soft cover.
89
$$
Microcontroller Projects in C for the 8051
TELEPHONE INSTALLATION HANDBOOK
69
By Tim Williams. First published
1992. 3rd edition 2001.
ANALOG ELECTRONICS
GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY
$
92
$
$
73
Through graded projects the author introduces the
fundamentals of microelectronics, the 8051 family,
programming in C and the use of a C
compiler. The AT89C2051 is an economical chip with re-writable memory.
Provides an interesting, enjoyable and
easily mastered alternative to more theoretical
textbooks. 178 pages
in paperback.
BOOKSHOP
ENQUIRING MINDS!
LOWER THAN RECOMMENDED RETAIL PRICE
WANT TO SAVE 10%?
10%
OFF! SILICON CHIP SUBSCRIBERS
AUTOMATICALLY QUALIFY FOR A 10%
DISCOUNT ON ALL BOOK PURCHASES!
Power Supply Cookbook
Analog Cct Techniques With Digital Interfacing
by T H Wilmshurst. Published 2001.
by Marty Brown. 2nd edition 2001.
An easy-to-follow, step-by-step design framework for a wide variety of power supplies. Anyone with a basic knowledge of electronics can
create a very complicated power supply design .
Magnetics, feedback loop, EMI/RFI control and
compensation design are all described in simple
language. 265 pages in paperback.
99
VIDEO & CAMCORDER
SERVICING AND TECHNOLOGY
by Steve Beeching (Published 2001)
$
69
$
$
Provides fully up-to-date coverage of the whole
range of current home video equipment, analog
and digital. Information for repair and troubleshooting, with explanations of the technology of
video equipment. 318 pages in soft cover.
69
Antenna Toolkit
by Joe Carr. 2nd edition 2001.
Together with the CD software included, the reader
will have a complete solution for constructing or using an antenna - bar the actual hardware. The software is based on the author’s Antler program, which
provides a simple Windows-based aid to carrying
out the design calculations at the heart of successful
antenna design. 253 pages in paperback.
NEW
NEW
NEW
NEW
PIC IN PRACTICE
O
R
D
E
R
H
E
R
E
by Howard Hutchings. Revised by Mike James.
2nd edition 2001.
63 $$63
$
Anyone interested in ports, transducer interfacing,
analog to digital conversion, convolution, filters or
digital/analog conversion will benefit from reading
this book. The principals precede the applications
to provide genuine understanding and encourage
further development. 302 pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL RF HANDBOOK
by Ian Hickman 3rd Edition 2002
by D W Smith Published 2002
Based on popular short courses on the PIC,
for professionals, students and teachers.
Can be used at a variety of levels. An ideal
introduction to the world of microcon-trollers for hobbyists, students and professionals.
255 pages in paperback.
87
$
Interfacing With C
Electric Motors And Drives
by Austin Hughes. 2nd edition 1993.
Reprinted 2001.
For non-specialist users – explores most of the
widely-used modern types of motor and drive, including conventional and brushless DC, induction,
stepping, synchronous and reluctance motors. 339
pages, in paperback.
Covers all the analog electronics needed in a wide
range of higher education programs: first degrees
in electronic engineering, experimental science
course, MSc electronics and electronics units for
HNDs. Text is supported by numerous worked
examples and experimental exercises. 312 pages
in paperback.
52 69
$$
$$
A guide to RF design for engineers, technicians,
students and enthusiasts. Covers all of the key
topics in RF: analog design principles, transmission lines, transformers, couplers, amplifiers,
oscillators, modulation, transmitters and receivers,
propagation and antennas. 279 pages in paperback.
NEW
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NEW
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TAX INVOICE
ANALOG CIRCUIT TECHNIQUES W/DIGITAL INT............$69.00
Your Name_________________________________________________
ANALOG ELECTRONICS..................................................$89.00
PLEASE PRINT
ANTENNA TOOLKIT.........................................................$87.00
Address ___________________________________________________
AUDIO ELECTRONICS.....................................................$92.00
___________________________________ Postcode_______________
AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN...............................$89.00
Daytime Phone No. (______) __________________________________
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES..................................$63.00
STD
EMC FOR PRODUCT DESIGNERS.................................$103.00
Email___________________<at>_________________________________
GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY............................$63.00
INTERFACING WITH C.....................................................$63.00
❏ Cheque/Money Order enclosed OR
M'CONTROLLER PROJECTS IN C FOR 8051..................$73.00
❏ Charge my credit card – ❏ Bankcard ❏ Visa Card ❏ MasterCard
PIC IN PRACTICE............................................................$52.00
PIC - YOUR PERSONAL INTRODUCTORY COURSE........$46.00
No:
POWER SUPPLY COOKBOOK..........................................$99.00
PRACTICAL RF HANDBOOK............................................$69.00
Signature______________________Card expiry date
TELEPHONE INSTALLATION HANDBOOK.......................$69.00
UNDERSTANDING TELEPHONE ELECTRONICS.................$70.00
PLUS P&P (if applic): $...........................
TOTAL$ AU..............................
VIDEO & CAMCORDER SERVICING/TECHNOLOGY........$69.00
VIDEO SCRAMBLING/DESCRAMBLING..........................$87.00
Orders over $100 P&P free in Australia.
POST TO: SILICON CHIP Publications, PO Box 139, Collaroy NSW, Australia 2097.
AUST: Add $A5.50 per book
OR CALL (02) 9979 5644 & quote your credit card details; or FAX TO (02) 9979 6503
NZ: Add $A10 per book, $A15 elsewhere
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P&P
ALL TITLES SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY. PRICES VALID FOR MONTH OF MAGAZINE ISSUE ONLY. ALL PRICES INCLUDE GST
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