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SILICON
CHIP
Australia’s
World-Class
Electronics
Magazine!
MARCH 2005
7
$ 90*
INC GST
NZ $ 8 75
INC GST
PRINT POST APPROVED
- PP255003/01272
ISSN 1030-2662
03
9 771030 266001
Serious training . . . or just for fun!
POOL LAP
COUNTER
Pro Sports
Scoreboard
siliconchip.com.au
Tuned Loop
AM Antenna
Dirt Cheap
UV Eraser
March 2005 1
SILICON
CHIP
If you are seeing a blank page here, it is
more than likely that it contained advertising
which is now out of date and the advertiser
has requested that the page be removed to
prevent misunderstandings.
Please feel free to visit the advertiser’s website:
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Contents
Vol.18, No.3; March 2005
www.siliconchip.com.au
FEATURES
8 The Revolution In Car Instruments
Find out what’s in store for future dashboards – by Julian Edgar
32 The Start Of Colour TV In Australia, Pt.1
Colour TV is now 30 years old in Australia. Here’s a nostalgic look at the way
things were back in 1975 – by Keith Walters
83 Build Yourself A Windmill Generator, Pt.4
Fourth and final article looks at propeller and mast options and describes
further refinements for the alternator – by Glenn Littleford
Professional Sports
Scoreboard – Page 14.
PROJECTS TO BUILD
14 Build A Professional Sports Scoreboard, Pt.1
It features big, bright LED displays and is controlled by an easy-to-operate
wireless console. Modular construction makes it easy to build – by Jim Rowe
38 A Lap Counter For Swimming Pools
Do you swim laps to keep in shape? This simple Picaxe-powered counter will
keep track of the number of laps you’ve done – by Rick Walters
64 Inductance & Q-Factor Meter; Pt.2
Second article has all the construction details – by Leonid Lerner
Lap Counter For
Swimming Pools
– Page 38.
74 Shielded Loop Antenna For AM Radios
Dramatically improve your AM reception with this tuned loop antenna. It’s just
the shot for remote areas & for minimising interference – by David Whitby
80 A Cheap UV EPROM Eraser
An “anti-bacterial” toothbrush holder, a single capacitor and a simple IC carrier
are all you need for a fully-functioning EPROM eraser – by Barry Hubble
92 Sending Picaxe Data Over 477MHz UHF CB
Interested in sending digital data over UHF CB? That’s just one more thing
you can do with a Picaxe – by Stan Swan
SPECIAL COLUMNS
48 Serviceman’s Log
Just knock but do it quietly – by the TV Serviceman
70 Circuit Notebook
(1) Headlight Reminder; (2) El Cheapo Cable Tester; (3) Aviation Intercom;
(4) Touch Lamp Remote Pad; (5) Simple Under-Voltage Cutout; (6) Reverse
Polarity Protector; (7) Picaxe-Based Freezer Thermostat
Shielded Loop Antenna
For AM Radios – Page 74.
88 Salvage It!
A $10 lathe & drill press tachometer – by Julian Edgar
96 Vintage Radio
The Astor AJS: an economy universal car radio – by Rodney Champness
DEPARTMENTS
2
4
13
46
61
Publisher’s Letter
Mailbag
Order Form
Book Review
Product Showcase
siliconchip.com.au
102
105
108
111
Ask Silicon Chip
Notes & Errata
Market Centre
Ad Index
$10 Lathe/Drill Press Tachometer –
Page 88.
March 2005 1
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Production Manager
Greg Swain, B.Sc.(Hons.)
Technical Editor
Peter Smith
Technical Staff
John Clarke, B.E.(Elec.)
Ross Tester
Jim Rowe, B.A., B.Sc, VK2ZLO
Reader Services
Ann Jenkinson
Advertising Enquiries
Phil Benedictus, Laurence Smith
Benedictus Smith Pty Ltd
Phone (02) 9211 9792
Fax: (02) 9211 0068
info<at>benedictus-smith.com
Regular Contributors
Brendan Akhurst
Rodney Champness, VK3UG
Julian Edgar, Dip.T.(Sec.), B.Ed,
Grad.Dip.Jnl
Mike Sheriff, B.Sc, VK2YFK
Stan Swan
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Publisher’s Letter
Desalination a sensible approach
for Perth’s water supply
This summer has certainly highlighted the ongoing water shortages faced by most Australians,
whether they live in the cities or rural areas. One
way or another, we need more fresh water, whether
it is obtained by more careful use of our existing limited water resources or by obtaining new
sources. For the cities, the problems are possibly
more urgent than in rural areas which are always
subject to periods of drought.
Perth has the most pressing problems, followed
by Sydney, Melbourne and Adelaide. Perth has had declining rainfall over
the last 30 years or so and has much reduced run-off into its dams. So Perth
is taking the immediate approach of building a sea-water desalination plant,
located next to the Kwinana power station. This makes sense, since it is close
to the sea and the power source.
The plant will use the reverse osmosis process whereby sea-water under
high pressure is applied to semi-permeable membranes to remove salt and
other dissolved solids.
Reverse osmosis is the favoured process because it is one of the most energy
efficient, although all desalination processes use large amounts of energy –
hence the need to site the plant next to a power station.
Perth’s proposed plant has an annual capacity of 45 gigalitres or 130 million litres/day. It is estimated to cost $346 million to build and $24 million
a year to run. That sounds like a lot of money but it pales into insignificance
compared to the much higher cost to build the mooted pipe-line or canal
from the Kimberley region in the north of Western Australia down to Perth.
Not only will it cost billions to build such a pipeline but it will need some
very big pumping stations to get the water from the Kimberley down to Perth.
Projections by Perth’s Water Corporation indicate that the energy cost
for water from the desalination plant will be 5kWh/litre while that via the
pipeline will be 15kWh/litre. Compare that with the price typically charged
to domestic consumers in Australian cities – around $1 per thousand litres
– and you wonder if our water shortage problems would suddenly disappear
if the present water price was doubled!
Really, when you think about the large energy cost of our present water
supplies, for pumping, filtering, chlorination (don’t forget the high energy cost
of chlorine production), fluoridation and so on, we should be making every
attempt to be frugal in water use. And maybe the water authorities could do
much to foster this by increasing the price!
No doubt there will be many people who would be opposed to any increase
in price for water but let’s face it, it is the most effective measure, requiring
no new technology, no heavy consumption restrictions and no need for draconian policing – you use the water, you pay.
Leo Simpson
ISSN 1030-2662
* Recommended and maximum price only.
2 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
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2005 3
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MAILBAG
Prawnlite protection
not required
A thought came to mind when looking at the schematic of the Prawnlite in
the January issue. There is no reverse
polarity diode in the power supply
line. Fitting one might just keep the
smoke inside the components when
someone accidentally connects the
power leads to the battery “about face”
in the dark. Is there another form of reverse polarity protection in the circuit
that I’m overlooking?
As an aside, my experience with
white high-brightness LEDs has been
less than favourable. Over time they
tend to fade in brightness or just
fail completely. They are far less
uniform/reliable than single colour
equivalents.
Brad Sheargold,
Collaroy, NSW.
Comment: there is no reverse protection diode in the circuit but if the supply is reversed, it is unlikely to do any
damage to the components. In fact,
we inadvertently reversed the supply
during the night-time photo shoot – as
you suggested might happen. No damage occurred.
Cheap electronics & TVs
with digital tuners
I have read the Publisher’s Letter
and the letter entitled “TVs should
have digital tuners”, in the January
2005 issue of SILICON CHIP.
Currently, there is legislation in
North America requiring new TV sets
over a certain size to have an integrated
digital TV tuner. If the Australian
authorities follow suit, this would
certainly promote the awareness of
digital TV. Also, I think publishers
of TV guides should include indications of programs available in digital
widescreen, high definition and those
which have multiple camera angles.
This would also further promote the
availability of digital TV.
For the last few years, I have
been seeing audio equipment with
outrageous power output claims
(particularly on eBay). My Pioneer
C-2000 valve amplifier/tuner has an
RMS power output of 11W, with an
4 Silicon Chip
EIA music output of 34W, which is
measured to an industry standard. I
think all amplifiers should have music
output power measured under EIA test
procedures.
Also, I have begun to notice shifting
trends in the composition of equipment dumped in landfill. On occasions, I buy some of it from a junkyard
very cheaply and I then carry out a
Build Quality Investigation (BQI) on
them.
Do you think the low cost of such
equipment could be a result of unfair
trade practices? I think such poor quality equipment could be an environmental problem, because the chemicals used are often not identified,
because the manufacturer could not
be identified. My 20-year old Thorn
TV set (Japanese made) is still working
well and it never needed repair. I think
such sets are very well-made.
Bryce Cherry,
via email.
Critical comment on the
November issue
I have a number of questions and
comments on things I have spotted in
the November 2004 issue. In “Circuit
Notebook” on page 81, Tarek Helland
made a slight mistake: pin 12 is not
+12V; it’s -12V (blue wire -12V, orange
wire +12V).
Although this has nothing to do with
the PS_ON wire on the ATX plug, it
might cause a problem if someone used
the diagram for another purpose.
In “Ask SILICON CHIP” on page 108,
in the answer to the letter on the
Playmaster 300W amplifier, touching
the audio input will cause your body
to act as an antenna for 50Hz mains
hum. Also, touching an earthed item
(RCA socket shield or amplifier case)
will reduce this 50Hz voltage induced
into the amplifier.
On a similar note, if touching the
shield (cold side of an amplifier input) causes hum, there is either an
open-circuit resistor between signal
ground to main ground, or the mains
earth wire is disconnected from the
amplifier. This has come from my own
experience.
Also in “Ask SILICON CHIP” on the
same page, in the letter on the Micromitter’s faulty filter, the GWFB3 filter
pins are wrongly marked; the dot
is pin 1 which is the 1nF capacitor,
so you have the filter orientated the
wrong way around. I discovered this
by measuring between pin 2 to pins 1
and 3 with an Ohmmeter. Of course,
a capacitor will read open circuit and
an inductor nearly a short circuit.
Also the circuit of the GWFB3 is in
the construction article, so it should
not be hard to figure that out.
Finally, I have quick question on
the 3-Step Charger for deep-cycle
12V batteries. Is there protection if
the battery is too cold or even frozen?
This is bad for the battery’s life but not
necessary fatal as long as the case does
not crack. A frozen battery should be
left to thaw out before attempting to
charge it, so the question is: “is there
a low temperature cut out?” If not, it
will be a simple matter to add to the
code but what temperatures should
be used?
I buy your magazine every month
and I enjoy reading it. The only problem is when I finish reading it I’m after
more. Keep up the good work.
Danny Rawlins,
Portland Vic.
Comment: Tarek Heiland did not make
the mistake – it was a drawing error
on our part.
You are right about the induction
of hum into the input of amplifiers
but we still think that the Pro Series
is quite prone to oscillation at around
100MHz, leading to the motor-boating
symptoms described.
As far as the Micromitter is concerned, our prototype was never fitted
siliconchip.com.au
with the CFWB3 filter even though we
made provision for it. We were not able
to source it during the development.
Having said that, hindsight says that
reversing the in-line 3-pin device could
cause the fault – we did not think of
it when the answer was prepared.
Thanks for the tip.
We did not make provision for prevention of charging of frozen batteries
and it would not be easy to do so with
the specified thermistor. In any case,
how many people would attempt to
charge a frozen battery and how likely
is it to occur in this country?
To be frozen, the battery would
have be very deeply discharged and
extremely cold. We agree that there
may be people “out there” who would
attempt to do it, in which case they
could certainly cause damage to the
battery.
Glad you like the magazine.
Battery refinements
for Energy Meter
I’ve recently built your Appliance
Energy Meter (July & August 2004)
from an Altronics kit and have one
concern and one suggestion.
I’ve included a rechargeable battery
and note that the battery runs the full
electronics when the mains is disconnected which flattens the battery during storage. I suggest that a switch is
required to isolate the battery – to save
having to unscrew the lid each time.
This is even more important if one is
using a primary battery.
I’ve also come up with an easier way
to secure the battery within its steel
clip that saves having any holes in the
side of the case. Aside from the two
Nylon spacers mounted through the
lower PC board at either end of the battery, I’ve added a 15mm Nylon spacer
on the end of the centre top screw in
the display PC board. Into the end of
this spacer I’ve screwed a Nylon M3
bolt, leaving it protruding about 4mm.
This just touches the battery when the
lid is in place. Much neater!
Clive Woodward,
Perth WA.
Comment: thanks Clive. These are
worthwhile improvements.
Confusion about
instantaneous power
The Appliance Energy Meter article
siliconchip.com.au
in the July 2004 issue has mistakes. Is
John Clarke aware of them? The caption for Fig.1 says this is an in-phase
example. It’s not; it’s a 90° current lag
example. Looks like Figs 1 & 3 need
swapping. This really “threw” me.
I understand that the required power
to drive a purely reactive load is very
high but your 90° V/I case says that
the power is lower than the 0° and
45° cases. Maybe this is the power
dissipated by the load; ie, perfect inductors or capacitors do not dissipate
power. However, the power company
would have a problem if all loads
were purely reactive since the power
required is huge.
Nice little box he built.
Mike Peters,
Colorado Springs, Colorado, USA.
Comment: the Fig.1 and Fig.3 current
and phase diagrams are correct. There
is no error. Fig.1 shows both current
and voltage in phase. Fig.3 shows the
current lagging the voltage by 90°.
Instantaneous power (green curve)
has the same excursion in all three
cases (Fig.1 to Fig.3) but average power
is different in each case due to the
power factor. The 90° lag example in
Fig.3 shows the average power as zero
and this is correct.
It is true that high power factor
loads do cause serious problems to
the distribution system but this is not
a problem for the consumer.
About DVD
background music
I have just a short note regarding a
problem a gentleman wrote in about
in the January 2005 issue (page 98).
He had problems with the balance
between the background music and
dialog on DVD films. This may solve
his problem. The sound effects and
music on the film sound tracks is
encoded on the front left and right
channels behind the screen, while
the dialog is encoded on the centre
channel behind the screen.
If he hooks up one channel of his
stereo amplifier to the centre channel
of his DVD player and the other channel of his amplifier to either the left or
right channel (or both) outputs of the
DVD player, he should then be able
to balance the dialog and music with
his amplifier balance control. I have
not tried this but as a long-time pro-
Atmel’s AVR, from
JED in Australia
JED has designed a range of
single board computers and
modules as a way of using the
AVR without SMT board design
The AVR570 module (above) is a way of
using an ATmega128 CPU on a user base
board without having to lay out the intricate,
surface-mounted surrounds of the CPU, and
then having to manufacture your board on
an SMT robot line. Instead you simply layout
a square for four 0.1” spaced socket strips
and plug in our pre-tested module. The
module has the crystal, resetter, AVR-ISP
programming header (and an optional JTAG
ICE pad), as well as programming signal
switching. For a little extra, we load a DS1305
RTC, crystal and Li battery underneath,
which uses SPI and port G.
See JED’s www site for a datasheet.
AVR573 Single Board Computer
This board uses the AVR570 module and
adds 20 An./Dig. inputs, 12 FET outs, LCD/
Kbd, 2xRS232, 1xRS485, 1-Wire, power reg.
etc. See www.jedmicro.com.au/avr.htm
$330 PC-PROM Programmer
This programmer plugs into a PC printer
port and reads, writes and edits any 28 or
32-pin PROM. Comes with plug-pack, cable
and software.
Also available is a multi-PROM UV eraser
with timer, and a 32/32 PLCC converter.
JED Microprocessors Pty Ltd
173 Boronia Rd, Boronia, Victoria, 3155
Ph. 03 9762 3588, Fax 03 9762 5499
www.jedmicro.com.au
March 2005 5
Mailbag: continued
jectionist, I sometimes have problems
with the mix on the soundtracks.
Unfortunately, in the cinema we
cannot adjust the balance in this manner but it should work in a domestic
environment. The result will not be
stereo but it should give good wide
bandwidth sound for the hard of hearing. With the advent of cheap DVD
players with 5.1 decoders built in, this
option can be had even if a new DVD
player has to be purchased.
Graham Johnston,
Port Pirie, SA.
Radiator fan running
after engine turn-off
I too have my radiator fan wired to
come on at will as does F. W. of Airport
West, Vic, “Fan cooling does not work”
(page 97, January 2005) and I believe
that it is beneficial (especially as the
vehicle isn’t young) to help dissipate
the heat with the aid of the thermosyphoning effect and the thermostat
being open.
B. G.,
Kempsey, NSW.
Comment: we have doubts about
whether there will be much thermosyphoning in modern cars, with their
quite shallow radiators, the tortuous
water path through the stationary water
pump and hoses and the very high setting of today’s car thermostats.
On the other hand, if you can hear
the radiator fans running when you are
about to turn the engine off, it is probably good practice to wait until they stop
running before switching off.
Listening to
TV channel audio
This is to comment on the question
and answer on page 97 in “Ask SILICON
CHIP”, January 2005.
The easiest way to listen to analog
TV audio is to get a VHF/UHF scanner
with a wideband FM demodulator. I
use an Icom IC-Q7A. The TV audio
carrier frequencies are in memory.
The least expensive way is to get
an inexpensive FM radio (almost
anything goes) and build a simple
pre-converter. That is one dual-gate
MOSFET and one crystal oscillator
module. The oscillator can be anything
6 Silicon Chip
from around 7.5MHz up to 20MHz.
Oscillator harmonics cover all TV
frequencies. An 8MHz oscillator puts
channels 1MHz apart on the FM radio
tuning dial but any module from a
discarded computer would be OK.
Some calculations are needed, so
that the converted TV sound would
not overlap with a strong local FM
station nor other TV sound channel.
A simple LC filter is needed to select
proper harmonics of the crystal oscillator module. The crystal oscillator
module needs 5V but works happily
with a 6V battery and two voltage
dropping diodes, 1N4148 or similar.
For better sensitivity, a one-transistor
RF amplifier could be used between
the oscillator and the mixer.
Common FM radio chips won’t go
over 200MHz but it is not too difficult
to build the whole receiver using a
MOSFET mixer and an FM radio chip
(TDA7000) as the IF strip, operating
with an intermediate frequency of
around 70MHz.
Sakari Mattila, VK2XIN,
Canberra University,
Bruce, ACT.
Current transformers
can be dangerous
Please contact the writer of the letter entitled “Current Transformer for
Appliance Measurement” on page
98 of the January 2005 issue, before
someone gets killed. For example,
a thousand turns on the secondary
winding of a current transformer
makes a 1000:1 transformer. This can
and will generate lethal voltages.
Bought devices include a shorting
device built into the secondary winding to prevent this. It usually consists
of a relatively low-value calibration or
shunt resistor. Its value is chosen so
that when it is connected in parallel
with the meter, the voltage generated
by the secondary current gives a correct reading on the meter.
Incidentally, passing the wire
through the core represents not half a
turn but one turn precisely. Certainly
that turn goes via the appliance and
the transformer outside somewhere.
It is still precisely one turn.
I have built a current transformer
like the one this person seems to require. It was about 25 years ago using
an old TV horizontal line transformer.
From memory, I used something like
470 turns on the secondary and a
4.7W shunt. The simple maths tells
you that this gave 10mV per ampere
with a high impedance meter or scope
connected to it.
One ampere of primary current will
produce 1/470 of an ampere of secondary current. 4.7W is the secondary voltage per ampere of secondary current.
Thus 4.7/470 = 0.01V/A. Incidentally,
the insertion loss is approximately
0.01/470 = 0.0000213 ohms. As you
can see, there is no need for an empirical calibration.
David Millist,
Toowoomba, Qld.
Comment: we fail to see how a current transformer can generate lethal
voltages unless it has a significant
voltage across its primary winding.
In a typical current monitoring application, this is not possible because
virtually all the voltage is across the
load being monitored. That accords
with your figure for insertion loss.
Nor can we agree that a wire passing
through a toroid constitutes a full turn.
Considering the magneto-motive force
(ampere.turns) generated by the wire, it
can only be a half turn, at best.
Tsunami warning system via
email not workable
Your editorial in the February 2005
issue on the recent Tsunami is clearly
noble in intent, though I believe flawed
in a few points. Specifically, the suggestions on how to warn people of
impending disaster – to expect those
most affected by such a disaster, those
living a subsistence life on the ocean’s
edge, to have access to phones of any
sort (land-line or mobile), let alone the
Internet, is a fallible view.
The concept of using the Internet
(web, email) is, alas, impossible. As
you know, little on the Internet can
be trusted and it is all too easy for a
vandal or miscreant to impersonate a
trusted entity. Basically, if email were
an official channel for advising of disasters, guess what every second spam
message’s subject line would read?
Even for the recent tsunami, a number
of low-lifes tried to capitalise via spam
or fake “donation” websites (http://
siliconchip.com.au
google.com/search?q=tsunami%20
spam%20site).
Of course, in a world that has equal
access to technology and a secure infrastructure (eg, http://en.wikipedia.
org/wiki/S/MIME), it would be a great
disaster advisory channel.
Ben Low,
Perth, WA.
Solar hot-water
controller
P. B. writes from Queensland (page
98, January 2005) asking about a DIY
solar HWS. 17 years or so ago I designed and built a controller for the
circulator pump on a 450-litre HWS.
The controller included a circuit that
turns on the pump if the collector
temperature approaches zero, as it
occasionally does, here in the Adelaide Hills. The HWS has a copper,
gravity-feed tank and I made my own
collector panels.
My installation required the panels
to be at the same level as the tank so
a pump was required. The pump and
controller have been very reliable, not
having needed any attention in the 17
years unlike most of the stuff you buy
off-the-shelf these days.
Keith Gooley,
Adelaide, SA.
Implantable RFID tags
have many drawbacks
The editorial on RFID tags in the
December 2004 issue got me thinking
and I would like to offer my thoughts
on the whole idea of chipping. Lest I be
considered a Luddite, I should preface
my remarks by saying that I work in the
IT industry so I appreciate technology.
Oh, and I like gadgets.
I don’t think that the introduction of
implantable RFID chips is the solution
it claims to be. Rather, it raises more
questions than it answers, the first being: are they really necessary? While
they may allow patients to be identified in a hospital, that necessitates
some sort of central database which
contains a record of every patient to
whom a chip has been issued and that
every hospital has a connection to that
database and permission to view the
patient records.
Would this be feasible for small
country hospitals? What about when
you are travelling overseas? Would
siliconchip.com.au
there be a worldwide database or
would each country maintain its
own? If a worldwide one, what language would the patient records be
stored in? What safeguards would
there be to ensure privacy of information? Who would have permission
to update the records? How could
its security and confidentiality be
assured? And so on.
I would argue that there already is
sufficient technology for identifying
patients for treatment in an emergency.
For example, patients could elect to
have medical information attached to
their Medicare number. This is subject
to many of the questions I raised above,
however it is a system that is already
in place.
Alternatively, they could carry a
card or wear a bracelet, etc which
was coded in human readable format
(colours, letters, digits, etc) to indicate
allergies to drug families. While this
would not indicate the full patient
history, it would prevent a medical
practitioner administering penicillin,
for example, to someone who was allergic to it.
Also, do we have any statistics on
the number of people who are unable
to advise doctors of their sensitivities
in an emergency? Of these people, do
none of them have spouses or family
members who could be called on?
If the chipping is to be an elective option when one is admitted to
hospital, what is wrong with having
a bar-coded bracelet instead? This
could provide access to the same information that would be available by
a chip but would remove the need to
be exposed to yet another RF device.
And I believe the chips don’t react
favourably to NMR/NMI scanners so
even in a hospital they could only be
used in limited ways.
Would it assist identification of
people? No more so than existing
techniques. Each of us already has a
number of unique identifiers, the most
obvious being fingerprints. Rather
than implant a chip in a newborn
baby, why not fingerprint it? This
is less invasive, much less painful
and just as effective. Sure, the search
technology for fingerprints is more
processor intensive but it is not an
insurmountable problem (and surely
its resolution would encourage our
different law enforcement bodies to
work more closely together).
I don’t believe that an implanted
chip would prevent or reduce identity fraud, even assuming that a
“clean” database of identities could
be established and maintained. Most
people are basically honest and aren’t
out to defraud anyone. Those who
are dishonest will always find ways
to do so.
Let’s consider a few ways in which
this can be done. If everyone has a chip
implanted, what is to stop another person obtaining an RFID scanner, scanning one or more selected individuals
and having chips made with these IDs?
The chips do not even have to be the
same type as the “official” ones – all
they have to do is return the desired
code when scanned.
These fake chips do not even have
to be implanted. There is nothing to
stop someone carrying any suitable
ID when opening a bank account. I
can’t imagine a bank teller requiring
a customer to roll up the sleeve of his
suit in order to verify that the scan is
from an implanted chip – but even
then it’s not guaranteed.
What happens when the chips fail?
The expected life is 20 years, more
or less. If identity is determined by
a chip, when it fails would a person
have access to any of his assets or
bank accounts? How would he prove
who he was?
There is a lot more to discuss but I
suspect I’ve used up my quota of words
(and I haven’t even touched on the
social engineering aspect). I wonder
whether perhaps we are becoming too
reliant on technology to solve all our
problems?
Michael Byrne,
Morayfield, Qld.
AWA Radiola
model number
The text adjacent to the photo of the
Radiola 120 on page 96 of the February
2005 issue refers to the table model
companion as a model 120; this should
be model 110. Looks like the typing
gremlins sneaked in somewhere along
the line.
Warwick Woods,
President, Historical Radio
Society of Australia, Inc
www.hrsa.asn.au
March 2005 7
By Julian Edgar
The Revolution in
Car Instruments
New car instruments no longer use just electromechanical
gauges and pointers
C
ARS HAVE PROGRESSED a long
way from the time when a humble eddy-current electromechanical
speedo was the only instrument in
view. These days, many instrument
panels feature LED, LCD and TFT displays – and even conventional-looking
dials have stepper-motors driving the
needles.
Instrument clusters
Fig.1: block diagram of a typical current-model instrument cluster. A
microcontroller dominates and is used for signal acquisition, filtering,
diagnostic functions and for driving warning lights and stepper motors.
It also performs the calculations that allow the display of speed, service
intervals and oil quantity. [Bosch]
8 Silicon Chip
Rather than displaying just fuel
level, coolant temperature, speed
and engine RPM, instrument panels
can now display literally hundreds
of discrete parameters. These include
trip computer information, GPS navigational information, time, outside
temperature, selected radio station,
cruise control action, gear position,
date, door openings, service intervals,
siliconchip.com.au
oil level and quality, warning lights
and text messages.
Fig.1 shows the block diagram of
a typical current model instrument
cluster. As can be seen, a microcontroller dominates and is used for signal
acquisition, filtering, diagnostic functions, and for driving warning lights
and stepper motors. It also performs
calculations that allow the display
of speed, service intervals and oil
quantity.
At first glance, it would seem that a
micro isn’t needed for some of these
functions – but think again! Consider,
for example, illuminating a low oilpressure light – surely that wouldn’t
need to be controlled by a micro? But
while the oil-pressure light in modern cars may look to have much the
same function as in older cars, some
oil-pressure lights are now intelligent
in their operation. They monitor the
relationship between oil pressure and
engine speed, switching on the warning
light only when the pressure is lower
than it should be for those revs.
Service interval indicators, which
are used to show when the next service is due, use input data including
throttle position, engine RPM and instantaneous fuel economy. From these
inputs, a picture of how the car is being
driven can be built up – for example,
lots of short trips will result in a reduced
indicated service interval.
Some instrument panels are also
being used to perform a hidden function – that of a communications gateway. Because so much information
is needed by the instrument panel,
it makes sense to position “bridges”
between different bus systems (eg,
between the engine CAN bus and the
body CAN bus) at this location.
The stepper motors used to drive
needles allow a dramatic reduction
in thickness over other electronic approaches. Stepper motor gear ratios
of 60:1 and a power of about 100mW
allow fast and accurate positioning of
needles, with 720 steps available over
a 300° needle sweep.
Types of display
The most common form of advanced
display used today is TN-LCD – that is,
twisted nematic liquid crystal display.
The display can be used over a broad
temperature range (typically -40°C
to +85°C) and can be configured in
either positive or negative contrast
forms. Positive contrast means dark
siliconchip.com.au
The BMW 5 and 6 Series cars use a Head-Up Display system manufactured
by Siemens VDO. The information is displayed in a 150 x 75mm field which
is located within the driver’s line of sight, in line with the end of the bonnet.
The display data is produced by LED light that is reflected across four mirrors
positioned behind the instrument cluster. The windscreen is specially modified
to reflect the display to the driver’s eyes. [Siemens VDO]
characters on a light background,
while negative contrast means light
characters on a dark background.
STN (Super Twisted Nematic) and
DSTN (Double-layer STN) LCDs are
also being used, with colour provided
by the use of LED backlighting.
However, TFT (Thin-Film Transistor) LCDs are making rapid inroads
into the instrument panel market.
TFTs can provide high-resolution
colour with video capability. Display monitors that measure 10-18cm
(diagonal measurement) are now
being widely placed in the centre of
dashboards and even larger devices
(25-36cm) are expected to be implemented in the form of programmable
instrument clusters.
The first production car instrument
The First Eddy Current Speedometer
The eddy current speedometer
was invented just over 100 years
ago by Otto Schulze.
Schulze used a flexible shaft to
transmit the rotational speed of
the wheel or transmission to the
speedometer. Inside the speedo,
a permanent magnet was rotated
by the shaft and this induced eddy
currents in a metal disc or cup
located close by, causing it to be
rotated against a spring.
As the spinning magnet increased in speed, the disc rotated
to a greater degree, thereby indicating the speed on the dial via an
attached needle.
March 2005 9
on Head-Up Displays (HUD). While
these have been mooted for years (and
one model of Nissan Bluebird was sold
in Australia with a HUD projected into
the lower corner of the windscreen),
advances in technology are likely to
lead to more widespread adoption.
HUD basics
The Mercedes Benz E-Class uses an instrument panel that incorporates many
of the new technologies. So that the information display mounted in the middle
of the speedo dial is unobstructed, the speedo needle is attached to a revolving
ring which is fixed to a magnesium base. The base is gear-activated and driven
by a small stepper motor. As a result, the ‘needle’ moves around the perimeter
of the speedometer which is illuminated with electroluminescent foils. The
central display incorporates both dot-matrix and segment displays. Segments
are used around the inner periphery of the speedo to show the speed setting
of the Adaptive Cruise Control. The dot matrix display is capable of over 240
warnings in seven languages. A 32-bit micro controls the gauges and displays.
[Siemens VDO]
cluster incorporating a TFT is the
current Audi A8. The 320 x 240 pixel
full-colour 125mm screen is located
between the speedo and the tachometer and can display information
from the on-board computer, navigation system, radio, telephone and
adaptive cruise control.
The navigation instructions are
displayed in a pseudo 3D effect, with
perspective, flowing colour changes
and moving shadows all used. For
the navigation displays alone, 1MB
of data has been programmed in, with
35 different scenarios and turn-off
instructions composed from over 300
bitmaps.
In addition to this navigational information, the TFT screen can show
several hundred pictograms and moving animations. Three hundred lines
of text can also be displayed – in seven
languages! The display is controlled by
a dedicated 32-bit processor running
2MB of software.
Much work is also being carried out
Fig.2 shows the basics of a HUD.
It uses an activated display to generate the image, a backlight, an optical
imaging system and a “combiner” that
reflects the image towards the driver.
The windscreen can be used as the
combiner.
The most common displays used in
HUDs are the cathode ray tube (CRT)
and the vacuum fluorescent display
(VFD), although LEDs can also be used.
HUDs tend to display only simple information – eg, speed and navigation.
This is to avoid overloading the driver
with information that is always within
his/her field of view.
The advantage of a HUD is that the
driver doesn’t need to refocus his/her
eyes from infinity to 0.8-1.2 metres in
order to read the instruments. This
refocusing normally takes up to 0.5
seconds – that’s half a second when the
driver cannot see what is happening
on the road ahead.
The recently released BMW 5 and 6
Series cars use a HUD system manufactured by Siemens VDO. In these cars,
important information is displayed in
a 150 x 75mm field which is located
within the driver’s line of sight, appearing to the driver to be in line with
the end of the bonnet.
The amount of display data that is
shown on the HUD can be configured
by the driver or alternatively, the
driver can switch it off. The display
is produced by LED light that is re-
A measure of the internal
complexity of the BMW 7-Series
instrument panel can be gained
in this exploded schematic view.
[Siemens VDO]
The BMW 7-Series instrument panel uses stepper motor
driven needles and back-lit negative liquid crystal
displays. Note the navigation information shown on the
face of the tachometer. [BMW]
10 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
(1) Initially, three conventional-looking round
instruments appear on the display – from right to left:
tachometer, speedometer and a combination gauge
that shows hybrid power status, fuel level and battery
voltage. [DaimlerChrysler]
(2) The driver can elect – via a pushbutton – to change
the instrument display to the one shown here – again
from right to left: navigation, speedometer, trip
computer (and other things we can’t read in German!).
[DaimlerChrysler]
Adaptive Instrument
Display from
Daimler Chrysler
The DaimlerChrysler F 500 MIND concept
vehicle takes instrument panel displays
to the next step. Rather than have fixed
instruments, a completely flexible display is
used – different instruments can be displayed
as the situation requires.
(3) Alternatively, at night the driver can bring up the
unit’s night-vision system, which uses infrared lasers
integrated into the headlights to illuminate objects up to
150 metres away. [DaimlerChrysler]
flected across four mirrors positioned
behind the instrument cluster. The
windscreen is specially modified to
act as the combiner.
Instrument lighting
It is at night that modern instrument
panels look most impressive – their
display lighting is second to none in
the mass-produced instrumentation
world.
Originally, instruments were frontlit, either by bulbs positioned in the
cowl above and ahead of the instruments, or by edge illumination where
light was reflected off individual instrument surrounds. Even relatively
siliconchip.com.au
The Visteon instrument cluster used in the 2003 Renault Megane features
LED backlighting. [Visteon]
March 2005 11
Fig.2: the main components of a
of a Head-Up Display: (1) virtual
image; (2) reflection in windscreen;
(3) display generator; (4) optical
system; (5) electronic control unit.
[Bosch]
The first production car instrument cluster incorporating a TFT is the current
Audi A8. The 320 x 240 pixel full-colour 5-inch screen is located between the
speedo and the tachometer and can display information from the on-board
computer, navigation system, radio, telephone and adaptive cruise control. For
the navigation displays alone, 1MB of data has been programmed in, with 35
different scenarios and turn-off instructions composed from over 300 bitmaps.
In addition to this navigational information, the TFT screen can show several
hundred pictograms and moving animations. Three hundred lines of text can
also be displayed in seven languages! The display is controlled by a dedicated
32-bit processor running 2MB of software. [Siemens VDO]
simple instrument lighting of this
sort often used acrylic mouldings
that acted as “light-pipes”, channelling illumination around the display.
Incandescent filament lamps were
universally used, with dimming by a
current-reducing rheostat.
These days, backlighting is becoming widely adopted. Light bulbs have
been replaced by LEDs – their smaller
size, lower power consumption, ruggedness and longer life having clear
advantages over incandescent bulbs.
Sources of illumination also now
being widely used in instrument pan-
els include electroluminescent film
and cold-cathode lamps. Electroluminescent (EL) film features very
uniform lighting distribution and is
most appropriate for illuminating
dial faces and displays. Typically, EL
film requires 100V AC at a frequency
of 400Hz.
Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lights
(CCFL) are mainly used for backlighting “black screen” instruments – those
that appear black when deactivated.
In Australia, Lexus has long used this
approach. Because a heavily tinted
cover (one source suggests the cover
typically has a transmissibility of only
25%) is required, very bright lights are
required. LCDs also require intense
backlighting if they are to retain adequate contrast in daylight.
CCFLs meets these requirements,
with an efficacy of 25 lumens/watt
– approximately 10 times that of the
incandescent lamps used in instrument panels. CCFL lighting requires a
power supply of 2kV AC at a frequency
of 50-100kHz.
Incandescent bulbs have a quoted
life (based on a 3% probability of
failure) of 4500 hours. However,
the other three light sources have
a minimum life that would usually
equate to the life of the car – 10,000
hours or more.
Conclusion
As car systems become increasingly
sophisticated, new techniques need to
be found to communicate that information to the driver. The flexibility of
electronic displays means that more
and more will be found in car instruSC
ment panels.
The LED-illuminated instrument panels in the current Honda Accord and Accord Euro models feature 3-stage operation.
At first, when the driver opens the door, the instrument panel lights with just the gauge markings, as shown in the photo
at left. Then, as the driver inserts the key in the ignition, the display brightens further. Turning the key to start the motor
brings up all the panel legends before the display settles down to show just the relevant information.
12 Silicon Chip
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03-05
Build Your Team A Professional
Sports Scorebo
14 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Pt.1: By JIM ROWE
oard
Here’s a build-it-yourself electronic
scoreboard that you can put together
for a tiny fraction of what you’d have
to pay for a commercial scoreboard.
It offers large, easy-to-read displays,
a convenient wireless console and
modular construction which makes it
especially easy for a group of people to
build. It’s mainly designed for basketball
but can be used for other games as well.
C
OMMERCIALLY AVAILABLE bas-
ketball scoreboards have price tags
starting at about $2500 and zooming
upwards into the stratosphere if you
want features like a wireless control
console. That means they’re generally
out of the question for amateur and
school sports teams with plenty of
enthusiasm but almost no budget.
If you’re in that position, what
would you say to a scoreboard you
can build yourself for a fraction of
the cost of a commercial model? Not
only that but it boasts features like
big, bright digits 130mm high and a
wireless console that can be up to 50
metres or so from the scoreboard itself.
It also offers modular construction, so
it can be built up easily by a group of
siliconchip.com.au
people – as long as they have a modest amount of experience assembling
electronic projects and some basic
woodworking skills.
Sounds like a pretty good project for
school technology classes, doesn’t it?
Especially if the school has some keen
basketballers but very little money
to spend on luxury facilities like a
scoreboard.
As you can see from the features
box and the photos, the scoreboard
offers most of the features found on the
majority of commercial units. It has a
2.5-digit display for each team’s score,
able to show scores up to 199. It also
has a single digit display for the current game period, able to show 1/2/3/4
or an “E” for extra time. And finally,
March 2005 15
16 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the Control Console circuit is based on a PIC16F84A-04 microcontroller and a 2.4GHz transmitter module. The PIC scans the control key
switches and generates the corresponding command codes which are then transmitted to a receiver in the Scoreboard.
there’s the 4-digit countdown timer
display, which shows the remaining
time in the current period in minutes
and seconds for all except the last
minute, when it automatically swings
over to showing seconds and tenths of
a second. A colon is displayed between
the minutes and seconds, while a
single “decimal point” appears during
the final minute – so it’s always easy
to see which mode it’s in.
The countdown timer automatically resets at the start of each new
game period, when you press the
“Start Next Game Period” button on
the console. The Period display also
changes automatically when this button is pressed. Similarly, the timer
stops when you press the “Time Out”
button and restarts again (from where
it stopped) when you press the “Time
In” button.
To allow easy updating of the score
for each team, the console has separate
+3, +2 and +1 buttons for them both. It
also provides -1 buttons for both teams,
so their scores can be decremented
easily in the event of scoring disputes
or penalties.
How do you reset the Scoreboard
for the start of a new game? Simply by
pressing the two Reset buttons on the
console, at the same time. However, to
reduce the risk of anyone doing this
accidentally in the middle of a game
(which would have disastrous consequences), all that happens the first
time you press these buttons is that
the console flashes a LED on its own
front panel marked “Confirm Reset”. It
only sends the actual reset command
to the scoreboard if you then respond
by again pressing the two buttons.
Otherwise the reset command will
be ignored.
The circuitry for the scoreboard
itself is built on five PC boards: four
for the various display modules and
the remaining board for the controller
that runs it all. These boards are all
mounted in a timber frame, designed
to be hung up on a wall, with a 26-way
ribbon cable linking all of the boards
and providing the displays with power
and display data.
The control console circuitry is built
on two somewhat smaller PC boards,
which are mounted in a compact
plastic case. The data link between
the console and the scoreboard is via
2.4GHz microwave radio signals.
By the way, this Scoreboard project
has been developed in conjunction
siliconchip.com.au
Electronic Scoreboard: Main Features
•
Four separate displays for Home and Away team scores (0-199), current game
period (1-2-3-4-E) and the period countdown timer.
•
Display digits are all 130mm high and are formed using high-brightness 10mm
LEDs (four per digit segment). The team score displays are in green, the current
period in orange and the timer displays in red for easy reading.
•
The period countdown timer display shows minutes and seconds during most of
each game period but automatically changes over to seconds and 1/10 seconds
during the last minute of play. The end of each game period is also signalled by
a brief burst of sound from a piezo siren.
•
All scoreboard functions are controlled by a small wireless console which can
be located at almost any convenient location inside the court.
•
Console buttons allow easy addition of 3, 2 or 1 points to the score of either
team, along with the ability to subtract 1 from either team’s score in the event
of penalties and scoring disputes. There
•
Console features extra buttons to start the next game period, stop the
countdown timer (Time Out) or restart it again (Time In) – plus a pair of buttons
which must be pressed together to reset the scoreboard for a new game. This
last pair of buttons must be pressed together twice, to confirm that you really
do want to reset the board (which should prevent you accidentally wiping the
scores and timers clean.
•
Unit can be set up to play according to either NBA, FIBA (International) or NCAA
basketball rules. This is done by setting DIP switches inside the console.
•
Both the scoreboard and the control console operate from 12V DC – eg, from
either 12V plug pack supplies or 12V batteries. There are no dangerous voltages
anywhere inside. This also means they can be used in areas where there is no
mains power.
with Jaycar Electronics, which holds
the design copyright for both its hardware and firmware. As a result, kits for
the project will only be available from
Jaycar stores.
OK, so that’s a quick rundown on
what the new scoreboard does and
how it’s used. Now let’s look at how
it works.
Console operation
Like the scoreboard itself, the
control console is based on a preprogrammed low-cost PIC16F84A microcontroller – see Fig.1. In the case of the
console, the PIC operates at a clock
frequency of 4MHz, giving a machine
cycle of 1ms.
The main functions performed by
the PIC in the console are scanning the
control key switches and generating
the corresponding command codes
for the scoreboard. As you can see
from the circuit, the keys are connected in a matrix configuration to
seven of the PIC’s Port B I/O pins, with
the three main rows connected to pins
RB5-RB7 (configured as outputs) and
the four columns connected to pins
RB0-RB3 (configured as inputs). The
scoreboard command codes generated
by the PIC in response to the various
buttons being pressed are fed out via
Port A I/O pin RA0, configured here
as an output.
The two Reset buttons are connected
in series so that both must be pressed
simultaneously, in order to link RB7
and RB0. When this event is sensed
by the PIC, it first places a logic high
on I/O pin RA4, also configured here
as an output. This turns on transistor
Q7 which then turns on LED2 – the
“Confirm Reset” LED.
If you subsequently press the two
Reset buttons again, the PIC turns off
Q7 and LED2, generates the scoreboard
reset command code and sends it out
via pin RA0. If, on the other hand,
you’ve made a mistake in pressing the
Reset buttons and don’t press them
again – but press some other button
instead – the PIC merely turns off Q7
and LED2 and sends the command
March 2005 17
18 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: the coded signals from the transmitter are picked up by the receiver in the Scoreboard Controller, decoded and fed to the RB0 input of PIC
microcontroller IC1 (PIC16F84A-20P). The microcontroller then sequentially drives the displays via IC2, IC3 and power Mosfets Q2-Q8.
code corresponding to the newly
pressed button.
Another function performed by the
PIC is checking the DIP switches (S2)
used to set which basketball code you
want the scoreboard to use: FIBA,
NBA or NCAA. As you can see, the
DIP switches are connected to I/O
pins RA1-RA3, configured as inputs.
All three pins are also connected to
ground via 10kW pulldown resistors,
so that only the pin corresponding to
the switch that is “on” will be taken
to logic high level (+5V).
Note that the PIC is programmed
to check the status of the S2 DIP
switches only when it first powers
up. That’s because the DIP switches
are inside the console and can’t be
changed without turning it off and
opening the case (changing the rules
is not something you’d want to do
during a game, anyway). So these
switches are only scanned during the
console’s power-up sequence and the
appropriate control code sent to the
scoreboard then.
The rest of the console circuitry
is used to process the control codes
generated by the PIC and sent out via
pin RA0, so they can be transmitted
to the scoreboard via the AWM609TX
data transmitter module. This operates
on one of four frequency channels in
the range 2.40 - 2.483GHz, as selected
by the four DIP switches marked S1.
The AWM609TX module and
its matching AWM608RX receiver
module (as used in the scoreboard
itself) were originally designed for
transmitting video and stereo audio
signals, using frequency modulation
and demodulation for both the video
and audio. We use all three signal
channels here to transmit our digital
scoreboard control codes by using the
circuitry around IC2, IC3 and transistors Q1-Q4 to pre-encode the digital
codes into audio tones, using a simple synchronous phase-shift keying
(SPSK) system.
This works as follows. First, clock
oscillator IC2b generates a continuous square wave clock signal of approximately 10kHz. This is then fed
to flipflop IC3b, which toggles back
and forth to produce two 5kHz square
wave signals at its Q and Q-bar outputs
– locked in phase but of opposite polarity. Then one of these 5kHz signals is
fed to the clock input of flipflop IC3a,
which produces a locked 2.5kHz signal
at its Q output.
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Here is a sneak preview of the main PC board inside the Control Console.
The assembly details will be published next month.
The 2.5kHz signal from IC3a is then
fed through buffer transistors Q1 and
Q2, and fed to the video input of the
AWM609TX transmitter module. This
then sends it to the scoreboard, where
it’s used as the clock signal for the
SPSK demodulator.
On the other hand, the two locked
complementary 5kHz signals from
IC3b are fed to gates IC2c and IC2a,
where they are effectively used to encode the digital control code signals
from pin RA0 of IC1. IC2d is used to
produce an inverted version of the
digital signals and this is fed to IC2c
together with one 5kHz signal. The
uninverted digital signals are fed to IC2a,
along with the other 5kHz signal.
As a result, when the digital signal
from IC1 is high (1), the 5kHz signal
from pin 8 of IC3 is gated through
IC2a. Conversely, when the digital
signal is low (0), the opposite polarity
5kHz signal from pin 9 of IC3 is gated
through IC2c instead.
Since the outputs from IC2a and
IC2c are effectively combined via
diodes D2 and D3, this means that
although a 5kHz square wave signal
always appears at the anodes of the
two diodes, the signal’s polarity or
phase at any instant depends on the
digital logic level coming from IC1. In
other words, the digital control codes
are encoded on this 5kHz square wave
signal as SPSK modulation.
To ensure reliable transmission of
this SPSK signal, we feed it through
transistors Q3 and Q4 which act as
complementary buffers. This produces
two versions of the same 5kHz signal
with opposite polarity, which are then
fed to the two audio signal inputs of
the AWM609TX transmitter module.
As a result, we not only make
use of all three signal channels of
the AWM609TX but also achieve
maximum link redundancy and noise
rejection.
But what’s the purpose of the circuitry around transistors Q5, Q6, diode
D4 and LED1? These provide a poweron indicator for the console – but a
power indicator with a difference.
Because the base of Q5 is fed with
the buffered 2.5kHz clock signal from
Q1, it therefore switches on and off
with this signal. The resulting 2.5kHz
signal at its collector is fed to the
base of Q6 through a simple rectifier/
clamp circuit using the 220nF capacitor, D4 and the 100kW resistor, so Q6
is only turned on during the positive
half-cycles of the 2.5kHz signal. As a
result, when LED1 glows, it indicates
not only that power is applied to the
console circuitry as a whole but also
that the 2.5kHz signal from IC3a is
present – and hence that oscillator IC2b
and flipflop IC3b are working.
Scoreboard controller
Fig.2 shows the circuit details for
the Scoreboard Display Controller.
March 2005 19
Fig.3: the Scoreboard Display 1 (or Period) board is driven by the control
board and uses 28 10mm yellow LEDs to form a single digit.
Once again, all functions are under
the control of a PIC16F84A microcontroller, which in this case runs
at a clock speed of 10MHz (giving a
machine cycle time of 400ns).
This PIC responds to the control
codes from the console, keeps the
20 Silicon Chip
scores for the two teams, runs the
countdown timer and looks after displaying all of the information via the
display board modules. It also handles
the important job of sounding the
piezo siren briefly at the end of each
game period.
The control codes from the console
arrive at the controller board via the
AWM608RX receiver module. This
module can operate on any one of four
2.4GHz channels like the transmitter
module, as selected by the Channel
Select DIP switches (S1). Naturally,
the receiver must be set to work on
the same frequency channel as the
transmitter module, for correct operation of the data link.
All of the scoreboard controller circuitry around transistors Q9-Q11, IC4
and IC5 is used in decoding the output
signals from the AWM608RX receiver
module, to reconstruct the digital
control codes sent from the console.
These are then fed to the PIC via its
RB0 input pin. The decoding is more or
less the reverse of the SPSK encoding
procedure used in the console.
When the 2.5kHz decoding clock
signal emerges from the video output of the receiver module, it is first
squared up by passing it through a
clamp and buffer circuit using diode
D4 and transistor Q11. It’s then passed
through gate IC4b, used here as a noninverting buffer. From IC4b, it is then
fed to the clock inputs of flipflops IC5b
and IC5a and also to the base of transistor Q12 via a 10kW resistor.
This causes Q12 to conduct during
the positive half cycles of the 2.5kHz
signal, drawing current through LED1
and making it glow. This allows LED1
to function as a “Carrier Present”
indicator.
The two complementary 5kHz signals containing the SPSK information
from the console emerge from the
stereo audio outputs (Ro and Lo) of
the receiver module. They are then
fed through clamp and buffer circuits
similar to those used for the 2.5kHz
signal.
In this case, one signal is passed
through Q10 and IC4a, while the
other passes through Q9 and IC4d.
One is then fed to the D (data) input
of IC5b, while the other is fed to the
corresponding input of IC5a.
So the two 5kHz data signals are fed
to the data inputs of the flipflops, while
the phase-locked 2.5kHz clock signal
is fed to their clock inputs. This means
that on each low-to-high transition of
the 2.5kHz signal, the logic level of the
two 5kHz signals will be clocked into
the flipflops. And as the two signals
are the complement of each other,
this means that one flipflop should
be driven into the set state (Q output
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Fig.4: the Scoreboard Display 3 board (for Home/Away scores) uses 67 10mm green LEDs to form two complete
7-segment digits and a leading “1” digit. There are two of these boards, each showing a maximum score of 199.
high) when the other is driven into the
reset state (Q output low).
As a result, they toggle back and
forth in complementary fashion, in
time with the digital control code
information coming from the console.
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To complete this decoding, we feed
the Q-bar output of IC5b and the Q
output of IC5a to AND gate IC4c, which
therefore provides an output high only
when both of these complementary
flipflop outputs are high simultane-
ously. The output of IC4b therefore
delivers a clean reconstruction of the
original digital control code sent by
the console PIC, with a high level of
reliability and noise rejection. This
decoded control code signal is made
March 2005 21
22 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.5: the Scoreboard Display 4 board carries the LEDs and switching transistors for the countdown timer. It has four 7-segment digits plus a colon and
these are made up using 120 10mm red LEDs.
Five separate PC boards make up the main display panel: a receiver/controller board, one period display board
(yellow LEDs), two score display boards (green LEDs) and one countdown timer board (red LEDs). We show you how
to build them next month.
available at test point TP1 as well as
being fed to the RB0 input of IC1.
Inside IC1, the PIC’s firmware program responds to the control codes to
perform all of the functions in controlling the scoreboard – updating the
team scores, operating the countdown
timer and keeping the various displays
operating.
There are 12 display digits in all:
three for each team score display, one
for the current period display and five
for the countdown timer – although the
centre digit of the timer display module
is dedicated to displaying only a colon
or a decimal point. All of the displays
are based on the standard 7-segment
digit format but use discrete highoutput LEDs rather than dedicated
7-segment display devices.
We do this using four seriesconnected 10mm LEDs in each digit
segment, in order to get large 130mm
high digits.
Display multiplexing
The 12 displays are all driven sequentially by the PIC controller in
standard multiplexed fashion, with
one complete display cycle taking
place every 25ms. This means that the
displays are refreshed 40 times each
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second (except for very short breaks
when the PIC is processing command
codes from the console). To turn on
each display digit, the PIC outputs
a digit code via pins RA0-RA3. This
information is decoded by transistor
Q1 and by IC2 & IC3, which then feed
a logic high to the appropriate digit
display circuit via the corresponding line
of 26-way cable connector CON1.
At the same time, the PIC makes
the current 7-segment display code
for that digit available via output pins
RB1-RB7. These outputs are used to
drive power MOSFETs Q2-Q8, which
are the power switches for the display segment control lines of all the
displays. So as each display is turned
on, the appropriate segments are also
switched on to display the correct digit
or other character.
The only remaining function performed by IC1 is to turn on a piezo
siren briefly at the end of each game
period. It does this by allowing its RA4
output pin (an open collector output)
to be pulled high by the 10kW resistor,
for three seconds at the end of each
game period. This logic high is used
to turn on power MOSFET Q13, which
in turn switches on a piezo alarm connected to CON3.
All the scoreboard controller’s circuitry operates from +5V, derived from
the +12V input by regulator REG1.
Although the PIC micro and the rest
of the CMOS circuitry draw very little
current, the AWM608RX data receiver
draws over 200mA – bringing the total drain from the +5V rail to nearly
250mA.
To allow the regulator to cope with
this, diodes D2 and D3 are used to
reduce its input voltage, while the
regulator is also fitted with a heatsink
to help it dissipate the remaining 1.5W
of power without overheating.
The display modules
As mentioned earlier, all the scoreboard displays are on separate boards,
which connect to the controller board
in daisy chain fashion via a 26-way ribbon cable. This connects to CON1 on
the controller board and delivers +12V
to the display boards, along with their
digit and segment drive signals.
All the displays use the same basic
circuitry, the operation of which can
be understood quite easily by looking at the circuit for the single digit
“Period” display (Scoreboard Display
1) – see Fig.3.
The digit drive signal from the conMarch 2005 23
Par t s Lis t – Sports Scoreboard
1 900 x 600mm sheet of 12mm
plywood
2 900mm lengths of 30 x 15mm
DAR maple wood
2 570mm lengths of 30 x 15mm
DAR maple wood
5 26-way IDC line sockets
(Jaycar PS-0987)
1 piezo alarm, 12V (Jaycar LA5256)
1 1600mm length of 26-way IDC
ribbon cable
2 16-way IDC line sockets
(Jaycar PS-0985)
1 70mm length of 16-way IDC
ribbon cable
1 12V 1A DC plugpack (Jaycar
MP-3137)
1 12V 300mA DC plugpack
(Jaycar MP-3011)
2 31mm lengths of 1mm diameter
brass wire
Woodworking glue, 25mm long
1.5mm diameter nails, etc.
Main Controller Board (x1)
1 PC board, code BSBCONTR,
127 x 190mm
1 Airwave AWM608RX 2.4GHz receiver module (Jaycar QC-3592)
1 TO-220 heatsink, 6021 type 30 x
25 x 13mm (Jaycar HH-8504)
1 4-way DIP switch (S1)
1 10MHz crystal (X1)
1 PC-mount 26-way DIL socket
(CON1)
1 PC-mount 2.5mm concentric DC
socket (CON2)
1 2-way PC-mount terminal block
(CON3)
4 25mm x M3 tapped metal spacers
13 6mm x M3 machine screws,
round head
4 15mm x M3 machine screws, csk
head
9 M3 nuts and star lockwashers
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F84A-20P microcontroller
programmed with SCORDISP.
HEX (IC1)
2 4028B CMOS decoders
(IC2,IC3)
1 74HC08 quad AND gate (IC4)
1 74HC74 dual D-type flipflop (IC5)
4 PN100 NPN transistors (Q1,Q9,
Q10,Q12)
24 Silicon Chip
8 MTP3055 power MOSFETs (Q2Q8,Q13)
1 PN200 PNP transistor (Q11)
1 7805 +5V regulator (REG1)
1 5mm red LED (LED1)
3 1N4004 1A diode (D1-D3)
3 1N4148 signal diode (D4-D7)
Capacitors
1 2200mF 16V RB electrolytic
1 100mF 16V RB electrolytic
1 10mF 16V tantalum
3 4.7mF 16V tantalum
5 100nF multilayer monolithic
1 100nF MKT metallised polyester
2 33pF NPO disc ceramic
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
1 100kW
1 4.7kW
2 47kW
1 470W
1 22kW
8 47W
6 10kW
7 10W
Period Display Board (x1)
1 PC board, code BSB-D1, 102 x
190mm
1 PC-mount 26-way DIL socket
(CON1)
4 25mm x M3 tapped metal
spacers
5 6mm x M3 machine screws,
round head
4 15mm x M3 machine screws,
csk head
1 M3 nut & star lockwasher
Semiconductors
1 PN100 NPN transistor (Q1)
1 BD136 PNP transistor (Q2)
28 yellow 10mm LEDs, high brightness or standard
Capacitors
1 1000mF 16V RB electrolytic
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
2 4.7kW
1 120W
Team Score Display Boards (x2)
1 PC board, code BSB-D3, 218 x
190mm
1 PC-mount 26-way DIL socket
(CON1)
6 25mm x M3 tappers metal
spacers
9 6mm x M3 machine screws,
round head
6 15mm x M3 machine screws, csk
head
3 M3 nuts & star lockwashers
Semiconductors
3 PN100 NPN transistors
(Q1,Q2,Q3)
3 BD136 PNP transistors
(Q4,Q5,Q6)
67 green 10mm LEDs, high brightness or standard
Capacitors
1 1000mF 16V RB electrolytic
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
6 4.7kW
1 22W
3 120W
Timer Display Board (x1)
1 PC board, code BSB-D4, 380 x
190mm
1 PC-mount 26-way DIL socket
(CON1)
6 25mm x M3 tapped metal
spacers
11 6mm x M3 machine screws,
round head
6 15mm x M3 machine screws,
csk head
5 M3 nuts & star lockwashers
Semiconductors
5 PN100 NPN transistors (Q1-Q5)
5 BD136 PNP transistors
(Q6-Q10)
120 red 10mm LEDs, highbrightness or standard
Capacitors
2 1000mF 16V RB electrolytic
1 4.7nF 50V greencap
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
10 4.7kW
5 120W
Control Console
1 console case, 189 x 134 x
32/55mm (Jaycar HB-6094)
1 PC board, code BSBKYBD1, 178
x 111mm
1 PC board, code BSBKYBD2, 163
x 100mm
1 Airwave AWM609TX 2.4GHz
transmitter module (Jaycar QC3590)
1 TO-220 heatsink, 6073B type 19
x 19 x 9.5mm (Jaycar HH-8502)
2 4-way DIP switch (S1, S2)
1 4MHz crystal (X1)
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13 PC-mount pushbutton switches,
17.5mm square (2 x red, 2 x yellow, 2 x black, 2 x grey, 3 x white,
1 x green and 1 x blue keytops)
1 2.5mm concentric DC socket
(CON1)
1 16-way DIL socket, vertical PCmount (CON2)
1 16-way DIL socket, 90 PC-mount
(CON3)
9 4g x 9mm self-tapping screws
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F84A-04 microcontroller
programmed with SCORKYBD.
HEX firmware (IC1)
1 74HC132 quad Schmitt NAND
gate (IC2)
1 74HC74 dual D-type flipflop (IC3)
5 PN100 NPN transistors (Q2,
Q4-Q7)
2 PN200 PNP transistors (Q1,Q3)
1 7805 +5V regulator (REG1)
1 1N4004 1A diode (D1)
3 1N4148 signal diodes (D2-D4)
1 5mm green LED (LED1)
1 5mm red LED (LED2)
Capacitors
1 2200mF 16V RB electrolytic
1 100mF 16V RB electrolytic
1 47mF 16V RB electrolytic
2 470nF MKT metallised polyester
1 220nF MKT metallised polyester
4 100nF multilayer monolithic
1 10nF MKT metallised polyester
2 33pF NPO ceramic
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
2 100kW
1 2.2kW
2 22kW
1 470W
15 10kW
1 390W
1 6.8kW
1 180W
4 4.7kW
Where To Buy A Kit
Jaycar Electronics has sponsored
the development of this project and
they own the design copyright. A
full kit of parts will be available from
Jaycar in due course – Cat. KC5408. This kit includes a pre-built
wooden display frame with screenprinted lettering and individual
Perspex covers for the displays;
screen-printed and solder-masked
PC boards; all on-board parts; and
a control console case with a prepunched front panel and screened
lettering.
siliconchip.com.au
Basketball Rules: The Main Differences
RULE
Duration of Game
Extra Time Duration
Timeouts
Shot Clock
Game Clock Stops
After Successful
Field Goal
FIBA
NBA
NCAA
4 x 10 min periods
4 x 12 min periods
2 x 20 min halves
5 minutes
5 minutes
5 minutes
1 x 60 sec in each of 6 x 60 sec, 1 x 20 sec 4 x 75 sec, 2 x 30 sec
the first 3 periods; 2 x
per half
per game
60 sec in 4th period
24 seconds
24 seconds
35 seconds
Last 2 minutes
Last 2 minutes
Last minute of 2nd
of 4th period &
of 4th period &
half & last minute
extra time
extra time
of extra time
troller board arrives via the appropriate pin on cable connector CON1 – in
this case, pin 3. It’s then fed to the
base of NPN transistor Q1 via a 4.7kW
series resistor, so that Q1 is turned on
when the controller takes that digit
drive line high.
When Q1 turns on, this conducts
base current for PNP transistor Q2,
which immediately switches on as
well. This connects the +12V supply
line to the anode ends of all seven
display segments, so they’re all potentially able to conduct current and
light up.
Of course, which segments do actually draw current and light up depends
on what happens at their cathode ends,
which are each connected to one of
the seven segment-drive lines in the
26-way cable, accessible via CON1.
So if the controller PIC has turned on
only segment control switches Q8, Q6
and Q3, only these three lines will be
connected to earth during this digit’s
display time and only segments “c”,
“b” and “a” will conduct current and
light up, to display a “7”.
Fig.4 shows the circuit of the Scoreboard Display 3 board. It uses the same
basic arrangement for each of its three
(strictly 2.5) digits. In fact, the circuit
for the two full digits is identical to
the Period display, apart from the way
their digit drive lines are driven from
different pins on CON1 (more about
this in a moment).
The circuit for the leading “1” digit
on this board is very similar too, the
main difference being that this display digit is only provided with three
segments – ie, segments “b” and “c”,
plus three more LEDs which are used
to fill in the gaps. These are connected
to segment line “d”, via a series 22W
resistor to match their current to that
of the other segments.
Note that each of the three digit
drive circuits for this board can be
connected to either of two lines on
CON1. This is because two versions of
the board are used in the Scoreboard,
one for the Home team score and the
other for the Away team score. So the
board used for the Home team display
has Q3 driven from pin 4 on CON1,
making that digit become D2. Similarly
Q2 is driven from pin 6 on CON1 and
Q1 from pin 8, so these digits become
D3 and D4 respectively.
On the other hand, the board used
for the Away team score display has
Q3, Q2 and Q1 driven from pins 10,
12 and 14 on CON1, so the three digits
become D5, D6 and D7.
The circuit for Scoreboard Display 4
(the Countdown timer display board),
is again very similar – see Fig.5. In
fact, the four full digits are wired up
in exactly the same manner as the
Period display. The only one that’s
a little different is the centre “digit”
D10, which is used only to display a
colon or a decimal point. It only has
two sets of four LEDs (one set for each
dot) connected, as if they are segments
“b” and “c” of that digit. We display
a colon by turning on both segments,
while turning on segment “c” only
produces a decimal point.
There is only one other small difference in the circuit for the Countdown
timer display, involving the addition
of a 4.7nF capacitor between the base
and emitter of Q1. This capacitor forms
a low-pass filter with the 4.7kW series
resistor, filtering out a small amount
of multiplexing hash which tends to
appear on this digit drive line of the
cable. Without this capacitor, digit
D12 can glow weakly when it’s not
supposed to be glowing at all.
Next month
That’s all we have space for this
month. Next month, we’ll move on to
building each of the various modules
which make up the Scoreboard. SC
March 2005 25
SILICON
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A nostalgic look
Colour TV in Aus
Although a sizeable proportion of readers will have never known
anything else, it’s incredible to think that March 1st, 2005 marks the
30th anniversary of the commencement of full-time colour television
broadcasting in Australia. What is even more remarkable is the number
of colour sets that were there for particular milestone and are still
working, in many cases still with superb picture quality!
I
personally have a 5-set “working
museum” of 30-year old sets “billeted” at various relatives’ houses,
still in everyday use. And I’d have
more if I had the room…
In the early 70s, we were piously
informed that the maximum working
life of a colour picture tube was “about
seven years”!
In many ways the advent of Colour
TV in Australia is a bit like the Second
World War: for people like myself,
born after 1945, WWII is an event that
has always “been there” – but mainly
in the sense of the lingering effect it
has had on people who lived through
that time.
Just as there are still plenty of people
alive who can remember a dramatically different time before there had
ever been a Second World War, there
32 Silicon Chip
are plenty of older electronics technicians who remember what it was like
when there were no colour TV sets!
As with WWII, a staggering number
of things changed beyond recognition
in just a few short years and there were
many casualties left by the wayside.
I’ve watched the average 67cm
colour TV that needed two people to
lift it, had just a mechanical channel
selector (usually VHF-only) and no
remote controls, evolve into today’s
comparatively feather-light equivalent
with a window-flat, absolutely rectangular screen, full remote control and
multiple video inputs.
The average 1974 product cost
by Keith Walters
around ten weeks of the average
worker’s net wages; you can typically
pick up today’s version for 3 days net
wages . . . or even less if you opt for an
old-fashioned curved screen!
And people may baulk at the price
of today’s Plasma sets but in real terms
they work out considerably cheaper
than the first colour sets.
Right place, right time
I started my electronics career in
early 1972 at the Brisbane branch of
a well-known nation-wide TV service
company, so I was right there at the
transition to colour.
In those days, many electronics
enthusiasts my age were keen to make
some kind of career in electronics,
often for no other reason than working
for some sort of “official” organisation
siliconchip.com.au
k at the start of
stralia
was about the only practical means
of getting any regular access to the
electronics “real world”.
You have to understand that this was
long before the advent of nationwide
Dick Smith and Jaycar type specialist
electronics supermarkets.
Things may have been easier in
Sydney and Melbourne but for the
rest of Australia, obtaining parts for
magazine projects was an expensive
and often frustrating business.
Electronic component sales were
often seen as a relatively unimportant
sideline for electrical wholesalers.
Buying even fairly run-of-the-mill
(by today’s standards) semiconductors often entailed long trips out to
obscure industrial estates on the other
side of town!
I was certainly in the right place at
the right time, as the early seventies
were an exciting time for electronics
in this country and elsewhere.
Up until then, apart from the proliferation of “transistor” radios, solidstate circuitry had made relatively little headway in consumer applications.
Solid-state technology had certainly
been advancing at an incredible pace
but most of the activity was in more
“serious” fields like the military and
computers.
siliconchip.com.au
Computer manufacturers had started abandoning valves at least 15 years
before – out of sheer necessity – but
even here the seeds of the future were
being sown; in March 1972 the robot
space probe Pioneer 10 set out on its
history-making mission to Jupiter and
beyond.
Its on-board computer was based
on Intel’s (and the world’s) very first
microprocessor, the 4-bit 700kHz
4004, the direct ancestor of today’s
multi-GHz Pentium CPUs!
The mission was supposed to run for
just two years but as it turned out, most
of it was still working (computer and
vidicon TV camera included) when
the probe finally moved out of radio
range in 2003!
Back on Earth, ICs were becoming
steadily cheaper and more plentiful.
In Australia in particular, changes in
tariff policies were making imported
electronic parts cheaper and more
accessible, as decades of “stone wall”
tariff protection were steadily wound
back.
Electronics retailing changes
A now long-defunct company called
Kitsets Australia (remember Kit: “Keep
your irons hot, boys . . .”) had just
opened the first tiny “Dick-Smith-
style” retail outlet in Brisbane. (Dick
Smith was operating his first store in
Sydney at the time but he didn’t open
in Brisbane until quite a bit later).
It was quite a big deal to be able to
actually see what a magazine project
looked like and speak to people who
actually knew what we were talking
about!
And for the first time, parts became
a lot easier to get. They even offered
mail order for those in the sticks.
Servicing changes
Those were interesting days in the
servicing field too; transistors were
finally beginning to catch on with TV
manufacturers.
Prior to that, apart from portable
sets, they had obviously seen little
reason to change from the valves that
had served them so well for the previous 15 years.
“Electronics service” then was
pretty much “TV service”. It’s hard to
imagine it now but in those days there
were no DVD players, no personal
computers, no microwave ovens and,
apart from portable record players and
AM radios, not all that much in the
way of sound equipment.
If a household boasted any sort of
“music system” at all, it was usually
March 2005 33
two types of picture tube: the older,
wide-necked 90° deflection type with
the bakelite base, or the more modern,
all-glass, 110° narrow-necked type.
If a set had to go to the workshop, it
was more usual to simply “pull” the
chassis and leave the tube and cabinet
behind.
Most workbenches were equipped
with one of each type of tube on a
special stand, a loudspeaker and an
audio output transformer combination
terminated with crocodile clips and an
orientable mirror. An oscilloscope was
considered a luxury and it was more
often a case of “one per workshop”
than “one per tech”!
The winds of change
My late father’s pride and joy: his 34cm AWA colour portable – probably the
reason I started writing this history in the first place! When I bought it for him
in 1975 he didn’t expect to be with us much longer and so he kept remarking
that the little set would “see him out!” However he got over that illness but true
to his word, when he finally passed on 28 years later in September 2003, aged
98, the set was still going, with the picture tube as good as the day we bought it!
a radiogram (an AM-only radio, perhaps with shortwave, plus a turntable
– itself often capable of playing only
78 RPM records), or if they were really
well-off, a “Three-in-One” TV and
radiogram combination.
FM radio and CDs were still more
than a decade in the future and even
audio-cassette decks weren’t all that
common (reel-to-reel tape recorders
were becoming popular). The nearest
thing to a mobile phone was a (very
expensive) dash-mounted two-way
radio!
Philips had demonstrated “proof
of principle” versions of both home
VCRs and videodiscs even back then,
but commercial versions were still
some years off.
The 1960s serviceman
A typical field serviceman’s tool kit
consisted of a soldering iron (as often
as not a “Scope” quick-heating type
which could do a great job on guttering but not quite so good on delicate
components!), some basic hand tools
(side cutters, long-nose pliers and a
few screwdrivers), a “20K per volt”
analog multimeter, a small selection
of plastic ferrite slug twiddling tools
and most important, a “quarter inch”
nut driver!
34 Silicon Chip
A large percentage of the woodencabinet TV sets had their backs
fastened on with special screws that
could only be removed with this
particular tool, presumably to deter
idle twiddling by the uninitiated
handyman!
On my first day on the job I was assigned a vacant bench and amazingly,
its previous occupant had cleared its
drawer of every item, except for one of
these esoteric and hard-to-get tools…
I still have it too!
The rest of a travelling serviceman’s
accoutrement usually consisted of a
briefcase full of the more common
valves, some 100mF high voltage
electrolytic capacitors, a selection of
600V polyester capacitors and usually,
the full “E12” range of 1W resistors.
There was also usually a small box
of odds and ends, germanium and
silicon diodes, a few common knobs
and so on.
The more progressive tech might
have carried a CRT “Zapper” (rejuvenator), often home-made and of
dubious efficacy!
There was a reasonable degree of
standardisation in Australian TV set
manufacturing, which meant that
there weren’t too many different valve
types used. There were really only
So until about 1970, setting up a
TV workshop wasn’t a particularly
costly nor involved undertaking but
the winds of change were starting to
whistle around the door frames. By
the end of the decade they would
reach hurricane force but we weren’t
to know that.
It all started in a modest enough
way. With the prospect of all-solidstate colour TV receivers on the
horizon, some of the manufacturers
obviously thought they should get
in some “practice” by experimenting
with all-transistor large-screen monochrome sets.
Actually, since the late ’60s, most
manufacturers had been flirting with
“hybrid” designs of one sort or another,
made from a mixture of valves, transistors and occasionally, even (the then
dreaded) ICs!
The “grunt” sections (horizontal/
vertical deflection and audio output)
were handled by traditional valve
circuitry, with transistors (and occasionally, ICs) in the low-power signal
processing.
It’s interesting to note, though, even
when colour TV set sales were well
underway, some local manufacturers
were still manufacturing and selling
all-valve large-screen monochrome
sets!
From this distance, it’s really hard
to see what the point of a lot of this
“hybrid” nonsense was. The simple
replacing of a valve with a transistor
in the low-power signal processing
sections had no real cost advantage.
And since the bulk of the set’s power
was still consumed by the valve audio,
vertical and horizontal output stages,
there was little or no cost saving in
siliconchip.com.au
manufacture or electricity consumption either.
Apart from this, most valves used
were multi-function, most usually
a triode and a pentode in the same
envelope, so you needed at least two
transistors to replace most valves.
Maybe the engineers were merely
trying to get some solid-state design
experience under their belts – but if
they were, they were fiddling with the
least problematic parts of TV design!
This was an even more eccentric
approach when you consider the case
of European sets which usually didn’t
have power transformers. (AWA and
Thorn made localised versions of the
British Thorn “R” chassis but fitted
them with power transformers).
In valved signal-processing stages
the bulk of the power consumed is
simply used by the valves’ heaters.
However, since all the heaters in a
“transformerless” set were normally
connected in series and fed from the
240V mains through a dropping resistor, to maintain the correct heater
current in a hybrid set extra resistance had to be added, to substitute
for the replaced valves. So practically
the same amount of power is used,
regardless!
(Of course it’s an entirely different
story with a colour set, because there’s
a lot more signal processing involved).
Just about all the major manufacturers produced monochrome portable
sets and you’d think, well here at least
is a reasonable justification for going
for all-solid-state designs.
But ironically, two of the most
popular “12 inch” portable designs
were those made by AWA and General
Electric and they were all-valve! At the
same time, AWA was making “Hybrid”
large-screen sets and all-valve 12 inch
portables!
(It was also something of an industry
joke toward the mid-70s that only remaining manufacturer of valve portables was National/Panasonic, whose
slogan went: “Just slightly ahead of
our time!”).
Of course, if you wanted AC/DC
operation, transistors were the only
way to go, and although most manufacturers also produced all-solid-state
designs, by far the most popular were
the HMV models, starting with the
infamous “Z1”.
Popular?
Well, I don’t know if “popular” is
siliconchip.com.au
Here’s the rear view of the AWA set shown on the opposite page. It only
broke down once in 28 years (actually after 22 years) when the damper diode
suddenly went short-circuit. And at the time I happened to be staying there,
with my tool kit, and with a suitable replacement on hand… Probably just as
well, when you look at the way everything was shoe-horned in!
the right word but we certainly saw
a lot of them.
I don’t know what sort of people
they had in their design departments
either but it appeared that none of
them understood anything about
RMS dissipation in rectifier circuits,
because they all used the same cheap
1A power diodes in a bridge passing
about 2.2A! This gave the diodes a
life expectancy that could best be described as “toasty, brutish and short”…
They also nearly all used the same
11V regulator circuit based on a PNP
germanium power transistor. This
frequently went short-circuit, often
taking out the high voltage germanium
horizontal output transistor and/or the
selenium EHT rectifier.
Then there were the dreaded “green
lollies”, a popular type of high-value
polyester horizontal yoke coupling
capacitor which was forever going
short-circuit.
All in all, they were certainly a reliable meal ticket for the few technicians
willing to put aside their technical
insecurities and “have a go”.
Kriesler were probably the most serious about large-screen all-transistor
sets, with their (in)famous 49-7 chassis. Overall, the 49-7 wasn’t a bad
design and I believe there are still a
few of them out there!
It featured a regulated 35V power
supply based on a BDY20 (2N3055)
power transistor, a horizontal output
stage that used one of the new BU105
1500V silicon power transistors running from a boosted HT line of about
120V, another BDY20 for the vertical
output, and a BF177 high-voltage
video amplifier stage.
Valve jockeys
Why “infamous”? Well, all this hightech stuff was good news for brighteyed 19-year-olds like me, raised on a
diet of EA/ETI magazine projects, but
not so hot for the generation of “valve
jockeys” that preceded us.
And there were a lot of these somewhat pathetic individuals (often exmilitary with no real theoretical background), who one way or another, had
learned to recognise the common faults
that plagued old valve TV sets (usually
the valves themselves) and could eke
out a living armed with a screwdriver
and case of spare valves!
Most of them eventually learned to
recognise other common faults like
dried-up electrolytics and leaky paper
capacitors.
I suppose as long as there was a competent workshop to back them up, they
March 2005 35
could usually be relied upon to put in
a reasonable day’s field work.
The new solid-state techniques
changed all that, with the triplewhammy of all-soldered-in, all-solidstate components, mounted on printed
circuit boards. Imagine how one of
those guys would have felt, the first
time he took the back off a sparkling
new Kriesler all-solid-state chassis!
A new breed of technician was
required, able to wield multimeter,
oscilloscope and solder sucker with
equal facility – and there weren’t too
many of those around! (Not for a while,
anyway).
Well, I guess we should make that
a “quadruple-whammy”, what with
colour looming on the horizon!
When I started, colour TV was still
a few years away and so all the sets I
encountered were monochrome, many
of them dating back to 1959 when TV
first started in Brisbane. (A few were
even older, having “migrated” up from
Sydney!)
Incredibly, until at least the early
1990s they still had some of these
“originals” under service contract! It
seems as long as the customers kept
paying the money (and they could get
the parts; mostly just valves and other
common “generic” items), it wasn’t
considered any big deal to make a
service call every two years or so!
And it’s not all that surprising,
really; some of those old sets were
incredibly well made; most of them
got the chop simply because they were
replaced with colour sets!
About 15 years ago I helped in the
restoration of an original Australianmade 1956 Admiral 21-inch TV. By
an extraordinary stroke of luck we
managed to locate a working reconditioned picture tube and some of the
“oddball” valves that Admiral used. It
still works, the printed circuit boards
being in perfect condition after nearly
50 years!
So in 1972 the vast majority of
day-to-day service work consisted of
mostly elderly all-valve jobs, with a
sprinkling of the “hybrid” types and
the occasional all-transistor model.
In the case of the older all-valve
sets, as with vintage radios, most of
the problems were caused by the old
style paper capacitors and other passive components.
If you have any notions about the
new hybrid designs being more reliable, I can assure you, in those there
36 Silicon Chip
One of the “newer” Rank Arena sets – basically, a re-badged NEC. Legend has it
that a consortium of local manufacturers was offered the choice of the Britishdesigned “true” Rank chassis or a badge-engineered NEC chassis. They took one
look at the British effort and took the NEC option!
were far more transistor failures than
valves. At least with a valve it’s just
a matter of plugging in a new one!
(Anybody remember those awful black
“Anodeon” transistors?)
Chroma locked colour TVs
Colour TV sets actually began to appear in Australia on a peculiar sort of
“grey market” basis in the early 1970s,
taking advantage of a technological
quirk peculiar to the PAL system.
Although there were no official
colour broadcasts (and no colour production or playback equipment in the
studios), many TV programs sourced
from the UK and Europe were supplied
on colour videotape.
And although they were never designed for it, most of the more recent
monochrome studio video recorders
could reproduce the colour subcarrier
to a certain extent.
The Government wasn’t happy about
some sections of the community jumping the colour gun, so to speak. So the
TV stations were required by law to
suppress the colour burst so that any
PAL colour sets would only display
the pictures in monochrome.
But “those in the know” discovered
that by the use of an add-on gadget
called a “chroma lock” this lack of
burst could be overcome (with certain
limitations) and quite often, excellent
colour fidelity was obtained.
Sometimes the chroma lock locked
the colours out-of-phase so that all
colours were negative of what was
expected (the “green face” syndrome
often experienced on NTSC pictures
those days). A tap of the chroma
lock button usually fixed that little
problem.
AWA imported and sold a few hybrid German Telefunken sets with this
facility built in and most technicians
with access to colour sets experimented with this technique, often sitting up
until the wee hours to watch English
Soccer in colour!
My first colour TV
The first colour TV I ever got to actually lay my hands on was a 26-inch all
solid-state “Decca” (actually made by
HMV), specially imported from the UK
for training purposes in 1973.
It was a pretty conservative design,
with an SCR-regulated 125V HT line,
a 66cm 90° delta-gun picture tube,
and mostly discrete components in
the signal processing sections.
It was a fascinating piece of kit to
those of us who’d never set eyes on a
colour TV set before but as it turned
out, it didn’t have all that much in
common with the designs that were
siliconchip.com.au
eventually manufactured and/or imported here.
Fitted with a chroma lock board
borrowed from HMV, it did the rounds
of a series of beer and prawn evenings
held in various technicians’ homes
when certain programs known to be
in colour were on. The management
obviously hoped that curiosity would
overcome their abject fear of the Technicolor monster!
There usually wasn’t much on during the day. In fact, the first time we
saw anything really significant was
the 1973 Melbourne Cup. I remember
I had the devil of a time dragging the
office workers away from the old Pye
B&W TV they were crowded around
to show them this new marvel. This
from a company whose offices were
plastered with posters proclaiming
their “Engineered for Colour” range
of TV antennas!
Then we realised that the upcoming
live-by-satellite telecast of the wedding of Princess Anne in November
1973 was not only sure to be in colour
but also on in the early evening (as it
would be morning in London then).
Unfortunately a lot of other people
realised this too and a few days before
the blessed event, HMV wanted their
chroma-lock board back!
Luckily, I’d already been working on
one of my own and I managed to get
it ready in time for the big event. But
as Murphy would have it, we couldn’t
find a single piece of colour material
to test it on.
“Oh well”, we thought, “we’ll just
stay back and see what happens anyway” but around 7pm other people
started to arrive. Lots of people – managers and their wives, people carrying
cartons of beer and real food!
Soon they were everywhere, dragging chairs out of the offices, sitting
on boxes, whatever they could find,
and eventually the whole loading
dock was packed with slavering Royal
watchers.
Did it work? Yes, thank God, it was
actually the best colour broadcast we’d
ever seen!
State stupidity
Of course, no amount of beer and
prawns was ever going to substitute
for proper technical training but at
least it got some of the older guys to
actually consider the possibility that
they might possibly be of some use
when colour came for real!
siliconchip.com.au
In Queensland at any rate, our
quadruple-whammy was really a quintuple-whammy: the state-run technical
colleges announced that their colour
TV training courses would only be
available to people who had undergone
official apprenticeships.
This probably excluded about twothirds of the Brisbane technical staff,
and for that and other reasons, our
parent company decided to set up its
own in-house training program.
A jaundiced view
In mid-1972 I was fortunate enough
to be struck down with a severe case
of hepatitis, requiring a six-week stay
in hospital.
Why “fortunate”? Well, it worked
out rather well for me as I had just
bought G.N. Patchett’s excellent textbook: “Colour Television With Particular Reference to the PAL System”. With
nothing else to do I applied myself to
the subject diligently and came out
of hospital something of an expert in
the field!
We also had the usual assortment
of people with “overseas” experience
who naturally made out they knew all
there was to know about colour TV
but when our Decca training set was
finally unboxed with an enormous
purity error, not one of them seemed
to have any idea what to do about this
common problem!
Yet the procedure given in Patchett’s
book couldn’t have been much simpler: “Display a red screen. Loosen the
two wing nuts attached to the deflection yoke and slide it backward; this
should produce a circular red patch at
the centre of the screen. Manipulating
the purity magnets as you would picture centring magnets, centre the red
spot on the screen, push the yoke back
forward until the red fills the screen,
and re-tighten the nuts.”
Which I did . . . and it worked!
Training the untrainable?
At this point the management realised that there was a long way to
go – they hadn’t even gotten their
technicians up to speed on solid-state
technology and there was colour TV
staring them in the face!
It was a very long, arduous and
thankless process I can tell you. The
only training material available was
mostly from the US and the UK and
although it covered the basic theory
well enough, the descriptions of “typi-
cal” colour set designs were years out
of date.
So we basically had to write our
own, using whatever technical information we could scrounge from the
local manufacturers and technical
colleges.
There was also a severe discipline
problem, typical of any situation
where you’re trying to teach a group
of middle-aged people anything!
Every time we got a group of technicians together for whatever reason,
the discussion would always degenerate into a discourse about how all
their problems would be solved if the
company simply stopped renewing
service contracts on sets more than
say, 10 years old.
In the end the managers got jack of
this and in the first hands-on example
I’d ever seen of the awesome power of
computer technology, they ordered a
special printout of the last three years’
“activity” of a couple of thousand of
their service contracts.
The printout showed the year
of manufacture, the make, and the
number of service calls for each of the
three years.
I can still remember the General
Manager laying down the law, too:
“Look: There! ‘Year of Manufacture:
1959; Service Calls: 1971 – none!; 1972
– none!; 1973 – none!’ Look at this one:
‘Year of manufacture: 1961’: no calls!
Here’s one with just one call! I mean,
all these people are paying us $39 year,
mostly for doing nothing. Even if we
do make a call, how much does that
cost us? Half the time you don’t even
use any parts, and even if you do, most
of them cost next-to nothing!”
I don’t recall his closing comments
but they were the 1972 equivalent of:
“There’s still money in it, guys; deal
with it!”
If it had been me, I might have also
added something to the effect that getting rid of a lot of the old sets would
allow them to get rid of a lot of the
“dead wood” in the company, whether
this was actually true or not…
SC
NEXT MONTH:
In the second part of this feature,
we’ll have a closer look at the
good, the bad and the downright
ugly: the TV sets that ushered in
the colour TV era in Australia.
March 2005 37
A LAP COUN
for
Swimming
Pools
By RICK WALTERS
Do you swim laps of the pool to keep in shape? It is a great
form of exercise but you’ll know how easy it is to lose
count of the number of laps you have done. This PICAXEpowered counter will keep track of the number of laps
completed, leaving you to get on with the swimming.
38 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
NTER
T
HOSE FORTUNATE ENOUGH
to swim in a 50-metre pool don’t
have to count very many laps in
order to cover a reasonable distance.
For example, just 20 laps means that
you have swum a kilometre. But even
then, as you plough up and down the
pool, it is pretty easy to get distracted
and lose count. Some people cope
with the problem by swimming five
laps freestyle, five breast-stroke, five
back-stroke and so on.
The problem is worse if you’re
swimming in a 25-metre pool (as many
top-level swimmers regularly train in)
and much worse if you’re swimming
in your home pool, which may be only
10 or 15 metres long. For a 10-metre
pool, you need to do 100 laps to cover
a kilometre.
Believe us, trying to keep track of
that many laps in a home pool while
you swim back and forth is practically
impossible.
This is where our Pool Lap Counter
comes to the rescue. It will display the
number of laps you have completed on
a 2-digit or 3-digit readout, so you can
let your mind wander, do mental arithmetic or compose your new symphony
while you swim up and down.
The Pool Lap Counter consists of
two small plastic boxes. One, the
“main” box, contains the Picaxe counter circuit and 2-digit readout, while
siliconchip.com.au
the other contains a large air-switch
pushbutton which connects to the
main box via a thin air hose and actuates a microswitch when pressed. This
is to avoid an electrical connection
(even in a battery-powered, low voltage device) around the very damp(!)
chemical-laden pool environment.
If you swim more than 99 laps, you
will have to add 100 to the count or add
the third 7-segment LED display.
Two ways of counting
The way it works is as follows. You
place the air-switch at the far end of the
pool (from where you normally start).
You then dive in (or gingerly wade in),
swim to the other end and push the
button, whereupon the display indicates “01”. Congratulations, you have
completed one lap. When you swim up
and back and press the button again,
the display will indicate “03”.
In other words, the display increments by two each time the button is
pressed.
As an alternative, because this Pool
Lap Counter uses the intelligence of a
Picaxe, you can start and finish your
laps at the same end of the pool. In this
case, you push the button to start and it
displays “00”. You then swim up and back,
press the button and it displays “02” and
so on, until you are exhausted!
Eight AA cells (12V) power the
counter. To obtain a reasonable battery
life, the 7-segment displays are lit for
just five seconds each time the button
is pressed.
Of course, the counter ICs are powered while ever the unit is switched
on but this amounts to only a couple
of milliamps.
How the circuit works
Looking at the circuit of Fig.1, IC2
is a 4553 3-digit counter (normally, we
only utilise two digits) with a multiplexed output. IC2 internally selects
digit one, two or three and places the
BCD data for this digit on outputs Q0Q3. These feed IC3, a 4511 7-segment
decoder, which energises the segments
of the two digits, corresponding to the
BCD code. At the same time, output
DS1 or DS2 (pin 2 or pin 1) turns on
transistor Q4 or Q5 to power the corresponding LED display.
The 10mF capacitor and the 100kW
resistor on pin 13 of IC2 reset the count
to zero when power is applied. The
1nF capacitor between pins 3 & 4 sets
the display multiplexing frequency.
All this is fairly straightforward.
The tricky bits are carried out by IC1,
a Picaxe-08 microcontroller. Among
other things, the Picaxe needs to cater
for people who place the Lap Counter
at their start end or at the far end. As
noted above, if you place it at the far
March 2005 39
Here’s what it looks like close up. The box at left is merely the lap sensor –
hit the switch and it sends a burst of air via the clear hose to the main box,
right. This actuates a microswitch which in turn increments the count by
two. You can set the count for odds or evens, depending on which end of
the pool you mount the unit. The air hose can be quite long.
end, the Lap Counter should count to
one the first time you touch the button
and then increment by two for each
subsequent touch.
We cover both contingencies by
fitting jumper J2 for odd increments
and omitting it for even. SK1 is arranged to allow programming of the
chip “in circuit”. Jumper J1 has to be
removed to do this although with the
47kW base resistor for Q1, it is probably
unnecessary.
This method means you must remove jumper J1 (thus removing any
load from pin 7) before you can reprogram the chip.
We also use IC1 to debounce the
pushbutton microswitch S1. This
achieves two things. First, it stops
multiple counts from being recorded
because of contact bounce within the
microswitch itself. Second, it prevents
a miscount if you accidentally push the
button twice within five seconds. You
could easily do this if you come to the
end of a lap, touch the button (or plate
or whatever) and then press it again as
you push off for another lap.
Each time the Picaxe registers the
closing of the microswitch, it gener-
ates two clock pulses to increment
counter IC2.
If you look at the Picaxe listing
(LAPCOUNT.BAS), you will probably
be able to glean what it does but let’s
just briefly outline the procedure.
Each time you push the button, several
things happen. First, IC2 is incremented by two counts (or one count if it is
the first time) and then it is disabled,
preventing it from registering multiple
counts. At the same time, the display
is unblanked for five seconds so that
you can see the count.
Three outputs from IC1 are used to
achieve this procedure. Pin 6 disables
the counter by going high (for five
seconds) to turn on transistor Q2
which then pulls pin 11 (DIS) of IC2
low. Pin 5 of IC1 provides the clock
pulses which are inverted by transistor Q3 before being fed to pin 12 (CLK)
of IC2. Finally, pin 7 of IC1 unblanks
the display by turning on transistor
Q1 to pull pin 4 (BL-bar) of IC3 low
for five seconds.
The three transistors (Q1-Q3) also
provide level translation between the
5V signals from IC1 and IC2 & IC3
which run from the full 12V provided
by the eight AA cells. Regulator REG1
is fitted to provide the 5V rail for the
Picaxe.
As noted in previous issues, there
is a great deal of confusion over the
way the Picaxe ports are numbered,
for what they call pin 3 is actually
pin 4 on the IC and so on. We have
taken the liberty of renaming them in
the more conventional manner as P0,
P1, P2, etc.We have used the decimal
point (pin 8) of the units display as
a power indicator to remind you to
turn the Lap Counter off. This stays
illuminated even when the lap count
is blanked.
Air-switch
S1 is an all-plastic “air-switch”
which is normally used in spas and
other areas where water and power
don’t mix. We got it from our local
pool shop, along with a matching
microswitch and a metre of 5mm clear
plastic connecting tube. The length of
tube can be much longer – depending
on your requirements, it could be as
much as several metres.
We use it here mainly because any
electrical switch put near a pool with
(Left) the air-powered switch we
used to actuate the counter. It’s
normally used in spas and should
be available from most pool shops.
(Right): the switch fitted in an
open UB3 case. The switch just
fits in this case but you might need
to perform minor surgery on the
ridge inside the lid to make sure
it doesn’t foul the switch nut. The
length of 5mm plastic air hose can
be as long as required.
40 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
salt and chlorine would not last very
long.
When the air-switch button is press
ed it compresses small bellows which
transmit the pressure along the plastic
tube to the microswitch mounted in
the Lap Counter case.
If you don’t wish to go to the added
expense of the air-switch, you could
use a standard pushbutton in the actuator box and run a piece of light duty
figure-8 flex to the Lap Counter case.
Construction
All the circuitry for the Pool Lap
Counter is mounted on a PC board
measuring 141 x 83mm and coded
08103051. It has a notch at one end
to accommodate the microswitch and
chamfers on the four corners.
Even though most people will only
use two 7-segment displays, we have
made provision for a third display
(DS3), together with its driving transistor (Q6). If you fit the third display,
you will have to install another 10
machined pins for DS3 as well as fitting Q6. We have shown the jumper,
which connects IC2 to the base of Q6
Fig.1: the circuit consists of two basic parts – the Picaxe-08 which senses the input from S1 and a display circuit,
consisting of IC2, IC3 and giant LED displays. Display DS3 is optional and is only required if you want to count
more than 99 laps. Who do you think you are, Grant Hackett?
The main box end-on, showing the
connection for the air hose to the
pushbutton lap counter switch.
Here are the giant LED displays
we used – they’ve visible for miles
kilometres a long way! We’ve turned
one upside down so you can see the
pin arrangement. Take care: you can
get them upside down.
siliconchip.com.au
March 2005 41
DS2
DS1
CON2
220Ω
220Ω
220Ω
220Ω
IC3 4511B
100k
Q2
BC549
220Ω
47k
1n
47k
220Ω
J2
ODD
100 µF
47k
10k
10 µF
220Ω
TO
S1
1
1
1
IC2 4553B
CON1
+
47k
10k
IC1
PIC-08
PROG
E
ROF TUOTUC
22k
POWER
CON3
HCTIWSORCIM
10k
Q4
Q6
BC327 BC327
DS3
Q3
BC549
47k
100nF
REG1
78L05
47k
Q1
BC549
1.5k
Q5
BC327
Fig.2: the component
overlay shows
the position of all
components. Note
that the sockets for
the LED displays are
mounted on the track
side of the PC board.
5002 C
15030180
RETNUOC PAL
This is the completed “main box” immediately before the PC board is folded
over and mounted upside down on the four tapped pillars. The battery holders
are held in place with our highly technical (and patented) battery holder holder.
on the overlay so this link will already
be in place.
The board assembly is reasonably
straightforward but as usual, first
42 Silicon Chip
check the board for open circuit tracks
and etching faults, particularly where
the tracks go between IC socket pins.
You will most likely have to make
the cutout for the air-switch yourself.
Use a small hacksaw to make the cuts
parallel to the longer board edges then
use a large pair of bullnose pliers to
break the fibreglass away in small
pieces. If you scribe a deep line, you
will get a clean break but if it’s a bit
ragged, a quick rub with a file will give
you a neat edge.
The first components to mount are
the LED display sockets which mount
on the copper (ie, solder) side of the
PC board.
To get the spacing exact, we use the
displays themselves to hold the pins
while we “tack” the pins in. Cut the
pin strip into four pieces of five pins
and carefully align the LED pins with
the strips and push them on.
Now place the LED sockets on the
track side of the PC board – not the
component side – in the DS1 and DS2
(units & tens) positions. That done,
place the PC board on a flat surface
and solder the outside pins on each
pin strip on both the top and bottom
of the display. There is no need to
worry about the display orientation
at this stage.
Now carefully remove the displays
and solder the remaining pins. A
pointed tip on your soldering iron
will make the job easier but we managed with the usual spade tip and a
lot of care.
Cut about 2mm off each pin on each
display so that it fits flush against the
pin strip.
Now turn the board over to the
component side and fit the seven
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.3: there’s not
much wiring
required – most is
on the PC board
and what’s left uses
plugs and sockets for
convenience. Power
is switched between
the batteries simply
to make the wiring
simpler – this way
there are only two
wires to go to the PC
board.
CON2
1
2
3
4
CON3
JUMPER
SHUNT
S1
PRESSURE
SWITCH
4 x AA CELL HOLDER
4 x AA CELL HOLDER
S2
POWER
links, then the resistors, followed by
the IC sockets, jumper, transistors,
electrolytics and the three polarised
connectors.
Make sure you insert the electrolytics with the correct polarity – and
note that the 10mF electrolytic must
lie flat on the PC board to prevent it
fouling the batteries.
The 3-pin header must also lie flat on
the PC board. As right-angle connectors
are rare, put a dob of glue on the flange
and use cut-off resistor leads to connect it to the board. Only the outside
pins need to be connected. The mating
header has pin 1 marked on it when
you come to connect wires.
Next, fit the mini-shunts to J2 and, if
you are using a pre-programmed PIC,
to pins 3 & 4 of SK1.
Power switch S2 is wired between
the two AA battery holders to simplify
the wiring. Solder one lead from each
battery holder to the switch (one red,
one black) and then the other battery
wires got to connector PL3: black to
pin 3 and red to pin 1. Plug PL3 in.
Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
siliconchip.com.au
No.
1
6
1
3
1
7
Value
100kW
47kW
22kW
10kW
1.5kW
220W
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black yellow brown
yellow violet orange brown
red red orange brown
brown black orange brown
brown green red brown
red red brown brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black orange brown
yellow violet black red brown
red red black red brown
brown black black red brown
brown green black brown brown
red red black black brown
March 2005 43
Parts List – Swimming Pool Lap Counter
1 PC board, code 08103051, 141 x 83mm
1 plastic case, 158 x 95 x 53mm;
Jaycar UB1 or equivalent
1 plastic case, 130 x 67 x 43mm;
Jaycar UB3 or equivalent
2 16-pin IC sockets
1 8-pin IC socket
1 air switch (S1) – see text
1 SPST miniature toggle switch (S2)
2 flat battery holders to suit 4 AA cells;
Jaycar PH-9204 or equivalent
8 AA cells
20/32 of IC socket strip; Jaycar PI-6470 or equivalent
1 2-pin strip 0.1-inch spacing (J2)
2 mini-shunts
1 2-pin polarised male connector
1 2-pin header (with pins)
1 3-pin polarised male connector
1 3-pin header (with pins)
1 4-pin polarised male connector
(for PIC programmer cable)
4 25mm threaded hex spacers
1 10mm threaded hex spacer
2 3mm x 20mm countersunk head bolts (air switch)
5 3 x 6mm countersunk head bolts
1 3 x 10mm countersunk head bolt
4 3 x 6 mm cheese head bolts
7 3mm nuts
6 3mm star washers
1 65 x 20mm aluminium or fibreglass (battery clamp)
Suitable length hookup wire for air switch
Semiconductors
1 Picaxe PIC-08 programmed with LAPCOUNT.BAS
(IC1)
1 4553 3-digit counter (IC2)
1 4511 BCD to 7-segment decoder (IC3)
3 BC549 NPN transistors (Q1-Q3)
2 BC327 PNP transistors (Q4-Q5)
1 78L05 5V regulator (REG1)
2 70mm 7-segment displays (DS1-2; Jaycar ZD1850 or equivalent)
1 70mm 7-segment display (optional)
Capacitors
1 100mF 16V PC-mount electrolytic
1 10mF 50V RB low leakage electrolytic
1 100nF (0.1mF) 50V monolithic ceramic
(code 104 or 100n)
1 1nF (.001mF) MKT polyester (code 102 or 1n0)
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 100kW
3 10kW
6 47kW
1 1.5kW
1 22kW
7 220W
Now fit the batteries, turn the switch on and measure
the voltage between pins 16 & 8 on both IC2 & IC3 (the
meter’s red test lead goes to pin 16 in each case). It should
be slightly more than +12V. Similarly the voltage between
44 Silicon Chip
;
PICAXE-08 CODE for LAP COUNTER
; using 4553 and 4511 to drive 2 ZD1850 displays
;
;Define inputs and outputs
;
symbol msin = pin4
symbol evenodd = pin3
symbol blankdisp = 0
symbol addcount = 2
symbol odd = 1
;
;Set output states
;
high blankdisp
high odd
low
addcount
;
;
wait
3
;allow IC2 to reset
;
init: if evenodd > 0 then initeven ;if jumper missing start at 0 & inc
by 2
if msin = 0 then initodd
goto init
;
;
initodd:low odd
;else jumper fitted, IC2 pin 11 high
pause 10
;hold high for 10 mS
high odd
;then take low, 1 clocked into counter
goto unblank
;(Q2 inverts logic)
;
initeven:if msin = 0 then inccount ;wait for microswitch to close
goto initeven
;
;
inccount:high
addcount
;2 counts must be added to the
display
pause 10
;take IC2 pin 12 low for 10mS (Q3 inverts)
low
addcount ;then high for 2 mS
pause 2
;
high addcount ;then low for another 10 mS
pause 10
;
low
addcount ;then high again
goto unblank
;now show the new count
;
unblank:low blankdisp ;take IC3 pin 4 high for 5 seconds
wait
5
;(Q1 inverts logic)
high blankdisp ;turn display off
goto initeven
;wait for next closure of microswitch
pins 1 & 8 of IC1 should be within 10% of 5V.
Once these voltages are correct, turn off the power,
insert the three ICs and if you intend to program your
own PIC, do it now. Then fit J1 between pins 3 & 4 of
SK1.
Turn the power on and after a second, the decimal
point on the righthand display should light. So far so
good. Run two twisted wires from the microswitch NO
and C(ommon) contacts to the 2-pin header (PL2). The
polarity is immaterial.
Plug it in and after connecting the tubing from the airswitch pushbutton to the microswitch connector, each
push of the button should advance the counter by two
counts. After five seconds, the count should blank. Note:
the count will only advance after the 5-second delay
when the display is blank.
If everything is operating correctly, you can drill the
siliconchip.com.au
Left: this view shows the PC board mounted inside the case before the 7-segment LED displays are fitted. Note that the
display sockets are fitted to the track side of the PC board. At right is the same shot but with the displays inserted. The
decimal point goes to the bottom, as shown here
08103051
holes in the plastic case and fit the four 25mm spacers,
first fitting a 3mm nut on each of the countersunk
screws. The nut brings the front of the displays flush
with the rear of the perspex, thus holding them firmly
in place.
Mount the air-switch and power switch, fit the batteries
into the battery holders and drop them into the case, then
sit the PC board on the spacers. Adjust the spacers until
the four of them align with the board holes. A Spintite
and a little gentle leverage will do the trick. Place the
clamp strip on top of the batteries to prevent them moving, then secure the PC board using four cheese-head
machine screws and star washers.
The front panel cutout may prove a challenge. We
obtained a small piece of 3mm neutral tint perspex from
a plastics supplier and took it to an engraver who cut it
to size with a chamfer on all four sides. We carefully cut
the hole in the case lid with the reverse chamfer, thus
allowing the perspex to almost sit flush with the lid. A
few drops of superglue held it firmly in place.
C
2005
LAP COUNTER
+
CUTOUT FOR
siliconchip.com.au
MICROSWITCH
The pushbutton switch we used is great for keeping
water and chemicals away from the “works” but is not particularly convenient as far as the swimmer is concerned.
Our swimmer found it a real drag (no pun intended) to
have to stop at the end of each lap and press the button.
With a little thought, we’re sure you can come up with
a much better arrangement.
One possibility is to use a reasonably-sized hinged flap
which the swimmer merely has to make slight contact with
at the end of each lap. Given the mechanical advantage
such an arrangement could produce, a small movement
of the flap could translate into a very positive movement
against the air-switch via a suitable actuator.
Such an arrangement could also be used for swimmers
making tumble-turns. As long as the flap was anchored
securely at the end of the pool, the swimmer’s feet could
do all the switching as he/she pushed off at the end of
each second lap. Whatever you do, just make sure that it
is suitably anchored so that there is no danger of injury
to the swimmer.
We also mentioned before that you could run a much
longer air hose than the length our photos show (merely
for a convenient photo!). The pressure system is quite
E
The lap “sensor”
Fig.4: full-size PC board artwork.
sensitive, so we assume several metres would not be a
problem.
That’s it: a lap counter that will keep track for you
whether you are swimming for fitness. . . or in training
for the Beijing Olympics.
SC
March 2005 45
BOOK REVIEW
By GREG SWAIN
Complete reference
for Red Hat Linux
Red Hat Enterprise Linux & Fedora
Edition: The Complete Reference,
by Richard L. Peterson. Published
2004. Soft covers, 800+ pages, DVD,
185 x 230mm. ISBN 0-07-223075-4.
$89.00.
While there’s a wealth of information about Linux in its various
guises on the Internet, the information is scattered like confetti. And
of course, individual articles are
often incomplete, disorganised or
out of date.
In short, you can waste an awful lot of time trying to track down
that vital how-to information for a
special Linux project or just to learn
how Linux works.
This comprehensive reference
book fixes that problem, at least as
it applies to recent Red Hat Linux
Enterprise and Fedora editions. But
don’t be put off if Red Hat doesn’t
happen to be your favourite Linux
flavour – the bulk of the information
in this handy volume applies to
other Linux flavours as well.
This reviewer has long been a fan
of Linux for its stability, its massive
range of applications and its low
cost. Indeed, most applications are
open source and can be downloaded
from the Internet for free. And no
matter which flavour of Linux you
buy, a vast range of applications
will be included with the operating
system on the CD or DVD (unlike
Windows, where you have to pay
extra).
Puzzled already? Just think of
Linux as an alternative operating
system to Windows (complete with
a graphical interface) and you have
the basic idea.
This book includes detailed information on just about any subject
involving Red Hat Linux you care
to nominate. It’s divided into seven
parts with 38 chapters and it doesn’t
make the mistake of assuming that
46 Silicon Chip
you’re an experienced user
or a guru. Instead, it begins
by explaining what Linux is,
then describes the installation procedure for Red Hat
and Fedora Core Linux.
From there, it moves on
to describing how the interface works, particularly
as it relates to the two
main graphical environments, KDE and Gnome.
It then gives details on
command line basics, system
configuration and network set-up.
This information includes setting up a small local area network
(LAN), setting up a virtual private
network (VPN), and making a DSL
(digital subscriber line) or wireless
connection to an Internet Service
Provider.
Although it’s also suitable for
beginners, most people interested
in this book will have at least some
knowledge of the capabilities of
Linux. Want to set up an FTP server
for your business or even for use at
home? Chapter 21 shows you how,
with detailed descriptions on deploying the alternative VSFTP and
ProFTPd FTP server applications.
How about a web server? Chapter
22 has that covered. Or maybe you
want to set up a DNS server, or a
DHCP server, or a file and print
server – it’s all there.
Or how about a mail server?
Chapter 24 has the goods here, with
detailed descriptions on deploying
the alternative Postfix and Sendmail
MTAs (Mail Transfer Agents).
But that’s all just the tip of the
iceberg. Other sections of this book
detail network security, network
administration tools, user management, journaling file systems, software and file system management,
system and user administration
(including configuration files and
permissions), hard disk management (eg, creating RAID and LVM
volumes) and firewalls.
Indeed, Linux is an excellent
choice when it comes to creating
secure firewalls. It’s also easy to
configure for network address translation (NAT) and IP masquerading,
so that users on a private network
can share an ADSL or cable Internet
connection. Chapter 19 has all the
details on this.
As a matter of interest, many people with broadband Internet access
now use a Linux box at home to act as
a firewall and to provide access sharing. Once set up, the box is typically
left running 24 hours a day.
A Linux system also makes a
great workstation, whether it be
for basic office work, multimedia,
email or just browsing the net (and
the necessary applications are
all included on the CD). As such,
there’s lots of information on office
and database applications (including OpenOffice, Koffice and SQL
database systems), plus descriptions
of popular Linux-based web, FTP,
email and newsreader clients. These
applications, along with the abovementioned server applications, are
all automatically installed when
you install Linux (or they can be
installed later).
As mentioned above, the book is
logically divided into seven parts,
with separate chapters in each part.
These parts are: Part 1 – Getting
Started; Part 2 – Environments; Part
3 – Applications; Part 4 – Security;
siliconchip.com.au
Part 5 – Red Hat Servers; Part 6 –
System Administration; and Part
7 – Network Administration.
The individual chapters are as
follows: Chapter 1 – Introduction to
Red Hat Linux; Chapter 2 – Installing Red Hat and Fedora Core Linux;
Chapter 3 – Interface Basics; Chapter 4 – Red Hat System Configuration; Chapter 6 – Red Hat Network
Configuration; Chapter 6 – Gnome;
Chapter 7 – The K Desktop Environment (KDE); Chapter 8 – The Shell;
Chapter 9 – Shell Configuration;
Chapter 10 – Managing Linux Files,
Directories and Archives; Chapter
11 – Office and Database Applications; Chapter 12 – Graphics Tools
and Multimedia; Chapter 13 – Mail
and News Clients; Chapter 14 –
Web, FTP and Java Clients; Chapter
15 – Network Tools; Chapter 16
– Security; Chapter 17 – Internet
Protocol Security (Ipsec); Chapter
18 – Secure Shell and Kerberos;
Chapter 19 – Network Firewalls
(Netfilter); Chapter 20 – Server Management; Chapter 21 – FTP Servers;
Chapter 22 – Web Servers (Apache);
Chapter 23 – Proxy Servers (Squid);
Chapter 24 – Mail Servers (SMTP,
POP and IMAP); Chapter 25 – Print
Servers; Chapter 26 – News and
search servers; Chapter 27 – Basic
System Administration; Chapter
28 – Managing Users; Chapter 29 –
Software Management; Chapter 30
– File System Management; Chapter
31 – Raid and LVM; Chapter 32 –
Devices and Modules; Chapter 33
– Kernel Administration; Chapter
34 – Domain Name System; Chapter
35 – DHCP Server; Chapter 36 –
NFS and NIS; Chapter 37 – Samba;
Chapter 38 – Administering TCP/
IP Networks; Appendix A – About
the DVD-ROM.
Finally, the book includes a comprehensive index and comes with
a bonus DVD that contains the Red
Hat Fedora Core distribution, plus
over 1500 applications (and the corresponding source code).
In short, this is a book for both
novices and advanced users alike. It
contains a wealth of information and
will prove particularly invaluable to
anyone involved in looking after a
Linux system or network. It’s available from SILICON CHIP Publications
– see advert this issue. (G.S.)
siliconchip.com.au
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fax the details to (02) 9979 6503; or mail your order with cheque or credit
card details to Silicon Chip Publications, PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097.
March 2005 47
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
Knock, knock – but do it quietly!
Some customers really can be a pain in
the you-know-what. Unfortunately, I need
the money and in any case, I’ve become
largely immune to their sometimes illogical
behaviour.
I don’t like house calls in apartment buildings – especially if there
are lots of stairs. I didn’t mind once
but not now.
I guessed that Mrs Machon’s telly
sensed this as I climbed up to her unit
on the top floor and knocked quietly
on the door (in order not
48 Silicon Chip
to wake the 2-year old, as per instructions). Well, of course she didn’t hear
me until I turned the knocking level
up to “waking-child level”, which then
woke mum up. She then angrily answered the door, asking “why didn’t
you knock quietly like I asked?”
I ignored her question and bit my
tongue. “And just where is madam’s
set?”, I replied rather sarcastically.
She had previously told me that
her Teac CTM686SR had no sound
or picture. In fact, the sound was
fine; it was just the picture that
had failed. I began by removing the
trillion back-cover screws and
about three hours later, the
back was finally off (I exaggerate just a tiny bit).
Quickly connecting a crocodile cliplead between one of the CRT cathodes
and ground momentarily flashed a
brightly-coloured horizontal line on
the screen. Yep, just as I thought – no
vertical deflection.
Now the universal story with smaller Teacs of this age group (early nineties) is that two electros dry out in the
switchmode power supply, causing the
voltage to go high. This in turn pops
electros right through the set, also
taking out a few zener diodes, fusible
resistors and possibly the vertical
output IC in the process. However,
this problem rarely occurs in the 68cm
version.
Anyway, considering the logistics of
the set, the 2-year old and his mother’s
disposition, I decided to take just the
chassis back to the workshop. It would
be much easier to work there, even if
I was taking a chance that I could fix
everything without testing.
Back on the bench, I replaced the
TDA3654 (IC401) and capacitors C910
(47mF 50V) and C908 (10mF 100V)
with higher voltage EXR types. I then
checked all the fusible 0.68W resistors
and checked carefully for dry joints
and any suspicious-looking electros.
Finally, feeling fairly confident that
everything was “schmicky mouse”,
I phoned to quote and arranged an
acceptable time to return the set the
next afternoon.
Unfortunately, things didn’t look
siliconchip.com.au
good when I arrived on time, as Mum had decided in her
wisdom to pop out for a couple of hours, leaving Grandma
in the unit without any money to pay the bill. Rather than
waste time, I refitted the chassis and switched the set on,
only to find that it was stuck in the standby mode and
would not start.
However, after flicking the mains switch a few times,
it suddenly came on with everything looking perfect.
The remote worked and I could operate every function,
including switching the set on and off.
Annoyingly, mum still hadn’t returned by the time I
had finished so I was forced to go and do another job and
return later to pick up the money. At least she had the good
grace to apologise and I thought no more about it until a
fortnight later, just before the Christmas holidays, when
she left a message on my answering service complaining
that the set had no sound.
Unfortunately, I wasn’t quite prepared to take time off
from my well-deserved holiday to attend to this problem.
After all, I knew that she had a spare set which no doubt
the 2-year old could trash in the meantime.
When I finally did get back to the Machon’s, I wasted
no time in taking the entire set back to the workshop –
despite having to carry it all the way down the stairs to
the car. And when I tested it, I was mortified to see that
the set was intermittently not coming on and that when
it did, there was no vertical deflection again.
I changed IC401 again, then switched the set on and
checked the main HT rail to find it was spot-on at +143V
on the separate switchmode power supply board. The low
voltage rail was also correct at 18V. However, in standby
mode, these two voltages dropped substantially, to just
100V and 12V respectively.
Not being familiar with this model (and only having a
poor photocopy of the circuit diagram for the CTM 715S),
I thought that perhaps the power supply was meant to
behave like this in standby mode. However, to be safe, I
decided to change all the remaining electros in the power
supply but this didn’t help.
My next task was to find out why the set wouldn’t
always turn on. The +143V relay – which is situated
on the power supply board – is controlled by a series of
transistors (Q905, Q605 & Q604) and by microprocessor
IC601 (pin 41). These are all fed with +5V by regulator
IC901 and this rail was also spot on.
Despite the low standby voltages, I could switch the
set on every time by shorting pin 41 to ground. However,
while the voltages would rise to their correct levels, there
was no sound or picture. On the other hand, if I flicked
the on/off switch (S612), which has two extra momentary
switch contacts, the picture and sound would come on
perfectly.
It seemed to me that the problem had to involve the
microprocessor and so I started looking for some sort of
protection circuit that might be closing the set down (particularly from the vertical timebase). However, I couldn’t
find any such circuit. I was getting nowhere and needed
to have a plan to get to the bottom of this.
At this stage, a friend of mine who used to be a Teac
agent lent me a circuit for the CTM686STR which is the
Teletext version of this set. However, I soon found that it
had important differences, particularly around the poweron micro switch S612. On the CTM686STR circuit, it wasn’t
siliconchip.com.au
March 2005 49
Silicon Chip
Binders
Serviceman’s Log – continued
REAL
VALUE
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These binders will protect your
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H 80mm internal width
H SILICON CHIP logo printed in
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H Buy five and get them postage
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Price: $A12.95 plus $A7 p&p per
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Silicon Chip Publications
PO Box 139
Collaroy Beach 2097
Or fax (02) 9979 6503; or ring (02)
9979 5644 & quote your credit
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Use this handy form
Enclosed is my cheque/money order for
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Bankcard
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50 Silicon Chip
connected while on the CTM715S
circuit, it fed Q604 which in turn was
connected to pin 41 of IC601.
On the other hand, in Mrs Machon’s
set, Q604 went only to pin 11 of IC03
and seemed only to be a sound muting
circuit. There was no connection to the
standby/power-on circuits.
Well, I then spent a huge amount of
time replacing microprocessor IC601,
the EEPROM (IC602), the 10MHz clock
crystal (X601) and numerous transistors and electros without result. In
addition, no-one I knew had any clues
and there was no-one else to ask. I was
stumped – the damn set had got the
better of me.
But not all was lost. By sheer good
fortune, another Teac came in, a CTM5928. This is a 59cm silver cabinet
TV with Teletext but at least the chassis
was almost identical to Mrs Machon’s
set. So, after repairing a faulty main
power switch, I checked the voltages
from the power supply both in standby
and power-on modes. Interestingly, the
voltages in standby mode were higher
than in the power-on mode, which was
the opposite to the power supply in
Mrs Machon’s set.
Suitably encouraged, I switched the
two power supply boards over and
noticed that Mrs Machon’s set not only
now came on immediately but that the
vertical output IC had failed again. It
was also at about this time that the
“battery-low” sign started to show on
my digital multimeter, which I temporarily ignored. This proved to be very
foolish because when this warning
shows on this particular meter, it starts
giving inaccurate readings.
This development put a spanner in
the works for quite a while, as I was
constantly monitoring the two voltage
rails with it, until it dawned on me
what was happening.
At this stage, I decided to replace
the two brand new electros I had fitted in the power supply right at the
beginning. And would you believe it,
just as I was desoldering C908, one of
its pigtails fell out!
I have had problems before with
these particular electrolytics from
my supplier. But, hey, what can you
do? If you whinge about it, the only
comment you’ll get back is “we have
sold x trillion of these and yours is
the first that’s caused any problems”.
It’s just not worth the phone call but
it really was frustrating that a cheap
brand-new component had caused so
much expensive time wasting.
The faulty capacitor had been causing intermittent output voltage levels.
In standby mode, the output was too
low to operate the relay, while in
siliconchip.com.au
power-on mode, the output level was
too high and destroyed the vertical
output IC. A new capacitor fixed all
the problems.
The Turkish Teac
Another Teac, this time a model EU68ST employing a Vestel 11AK19 chassis made in Turkey, also recently came
into the workshop. This is an entirely
different animal to its Chinese-made
forerunners.
The set was dead, probably due to a
power surge from a storm the night before. I soon found that the MTW8N60E
FET was short circuit and this had
also taken out R817, a 2.2W 5W resistor. I don’t really understand why this
surge resistor – which feeds the bridge
rectifier – always fails instead of the
mains fuse but it is very common in
switchmode power supplies.
Because IC802 (MC44604P) is so
closely coupled to the FET, I felt it
wise to replace that too, in case of a
repeat failure (there is no safe way to
test it). Anyway, I ordered the parts
from Speedy Spares who lived up
their name, the parts turning up the
very next day all the way from Melbourne! They advised that the FET is
Items Covered This Month
•
•
•
•
•
•
Teac CTM686SR TV set
Teac EU-68ST TV set
Philips A10A chassis TV set
Sony KV-EH36M31 FD Series
Trinitron TV set (AE-5A chassis)
LG MT42PZ41V TV set
LG RT23LZ40 TV set
now replaced by a 2SK2545, TEC part
number 30001388.
Unfortunately, that wasn’t the end
of the story because after replacing
all the parts, the set was still dead.
As a result, I checked the line output
transistor which measured OK, then
kept on making DC resistance checks
until I found that mains diode D816
(BYM26D or UF5407, part number
30007681) was leaky.
Now, I never know what to substitute for these diodes and can’t find any
specifications for them. However, I’ve
been around long enough do know
that “diodes ain’t diodes” and so I
ordered the genuine part from Speedy.
I replaced it the next day, along with
the two ferrite beads on each end, and
resoldered the dry joints to resistor
R828.
The set now fired up, the B+ rail
measuring +149V which is correct. I
left it to soak test but an hour later, it
decided to bite me again. This time
there were intermittent pincushion
and width problems. After another
hour of careful heating and freezing,
I finally nailed it down to a dry joint
on L602 which feeds the east-west
correction circuitry.
Bread & butter
The Philips A10A chassis is still
putting bread on the table with its
troublesome SSB board. And although
others are game to replace the surfacemounted micros, I’m not – particularly
when it comes to warranty claims.
I had a case recently when the complaint was the usual intermittent no
remote control and then dead, which
an exchange SSB board fixed. But then,
three weeks later, it started cutting
out, giving “error 4” messages on the
flashing red LED.
This usually indicates no +5V rail or
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The OPLLGW series
White powder coated.
This series is a ceiling
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and require a 57mm
diameter cutout
(MR11 size).
The OPLLBL series
Black powder coated.
This series is a standalone type for use
indoors or outdoors,
are fully weatherproof
and able to be fully
submerged for pond
application.
The OPLLBR series
Solid Brass. This
series is a standalone type for use
indoors or outdoors,
are fully weatherproof and able to be
fullysubmerged for
pond application.
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The OPLLFG series
Gold outer rim with
chrome inner finish.
This series is a ceiling
type fixed fitting and
require a 51mm
diameter cutout
(MR11 size).
The OPLLGC series
Brushed Stainless
Steel finish. This
series is a ceiling type
gimballed fitting and
require a 57mm
diameter cutout
(MR11 size).
The OPLLGG series
Brushed Gold Finish
This series is a ceiling
type gimballed fitting
and require a 57mm
diameter cutout (MR11
size).
Email us: sales<at>prime-electronics.com.au
BRISBANE SHOWROOM
22 Campbell Street
Bowen Hills QLD 4006
Telephone: (07) 3252 3762
Facsimile: (07) 3252 5778
SOUTHPORT SHOWROOM
11 Brickworks Cntr,
Warehouse Rd
Southport QLD 4215
Telephone: (07) 5531 2599
Facsimile: (07) 5571 0543
SYDNEY
185 Parramatta Road
Homebush NSW 2140
Telephone: (02) 9704 9000
Facsimile: (02) 9746 1197
March 2005 51
Serviceman’s Log – continued
that a 5V protection circuit is active,
so I ordered and replaced the 5-pin
IC regulator. This didn’t fix the problem but what I did discover was that
flexing the main board (LSB) would
cause a blue screen before bringing
on this fault.
Gradually, I found that the problem
was more sensitive near the lefthand
edge of the board and freezer finally
managed to pinpoint the problem to
a dry joint on L5262. This is almost
under the plastic edge rail and feeds
5V to the SSB.
A sick Sony
A Sony KV-EH36M31 FD Series
Trinitron (AE-5A chassis) was thankfully delivered to my workshop bench.
It was supposed to be intermittently
dead, which I had hoped would allow
me to get it into the Service Mode and
52 Silicon Chip
let me read the error code.
Unfortunately, I didn’t have the
service manual to find out how to do
this and the Service Mode couldn’t be
accessed by the usual display, 5, vol+,
power on. By the time I discovered that
you had to press both program “+” and
“-” together while turning the power
on, the set was permanently dead!
With the aid of the service kit for
this set (a complete set of boards), I
found that the Digital Microprocessor
M Board, Part No. A1304230R, had
failed. An exchange board from Sony
fixed the problem (repairing this to
component level was not an option).
Three warranty jobs
Three state of the art televisions
from LG came in under warranty. The
first was the largest size plasma set in
their range and its problem was a tiny
strip of light, one pixel wide, on the
righthand side running from the top
of the screen to about half way down.
Unfortunately it was the display itself
that was at fault and so it was beyond
economic repair.
Writing off a set worth in excess
of $20,000 really got me thinking – I
reckon I could live with this fault if
the price was right. However, that’s
something I’ll never know – the set
went back to LG and the customer got
a new one.
The second set was an LG model
MT42PZ41V which was dead. Its
power supply had failed and R101,
a 10W 10W resistor, had melted despite having a thermocouple circuit
attached to it that’s supposed to
monitor its heat and close the set
down. Instead, two FETS – Q503 and
Q504 (both 2SK3255) – had also been
destroyed.
After replacing these parts, the set
still wouldn’t start and LG insisted
that the power supply be replaced as
it was under warranty. The new board
then had to be set up so that VA = 45V
(RA402), VS = +178V (RV401), VY
= -70V (RV403), VS set-up = +220V
(RV404), RV201 = 5V and RV202 =
12V. The chopper frequencies are fortunately preset at the factory, so that
12V FMIN = 65kHz, VA = 75kHz and
VS = 79kHz.
The third set was an LG RT23LZ40,
which has a 58cm LCD digital Flatron
screen. This had no sound or picture .
The back light was OK but there was
no screen or OSD (On Screen Display).
Removing the back and the shielding, I found that there was 15V going
into the 12V “stabiliser” IC (a 5-pin
device) but only 1.4V coming out – and
it was getting very hot. Replacing the
12V IC regulator fixed this but unfortunately, because it was so close to the
screen drive circuitry, it had damaged
that as well.
Opening the back cover to the screen
drive board revealed only surface
mounted components. However, there
was a square hole with another circuit
board marked DC1 in the middle, connected via five legs to each side (DIL).
A surface-mounted transistor on this
sub-board measured short circuit.
The service manual had no circuit
diagram for this module and there
were no circuit references written on
it. Nor was there anything in the parts
list. In the end, the whole module had
SC
to be ordered and replaced.
siliconchip.com.au
MEGA MARCH SALE
Mini Digital Video Camera
199
Laser Pointer with
Presentation Control
PC interaction! Eliminate timing hassles when giving
PC assisted presentations. It has a regular laser
pointer as well as a wireless IR transmitter / receiver
to control the PgUp / PgDn functions
on your
computer.
Works
Cat. ST-3108
over
$
.95
15m!
49
Laser Pointer with Variable Display
Very versatile! Just twist the end of the barrel to
change from a dot, to a line, to an arrow. It
allows greater ways of highlighting
objects or text when giving
presentations, and a
Cat. ST-3106
whole lot more.
$
.95
29
OGGZ - Colour Morphing
Mood Lights
Set a romantic atmosphere!
These rechargeable wireless
lights slowly change
from one colour to
the next, and have
a soft glow for
romantic or
mystical effects.
They are charged on their base,
and run for up to 6hrs.
1 Piece Set Cat. GH-1047
Includes 1 OGGZ, charging base,
and mains adaptor.
3 Piece Set Cat. GH-1048
Includes 3 OGGZ, charging base,
and mains adaptor.
14
17
New Store in Hamilton, New Zealand
90 - 92 Commerce St
Franktown, NZ
Ph: (07) 846 0177 Opens late March
USB 2.0 High Definition Terrestrial TV
Tuner for PCs
Top quality reception! Watch superior quality digital
TV on your PC, with the flexibility of time shifting, real
time recording, picture-in-picture, and a whole lot
more. It operates in enhanced 16:9
format with software supplied
for DVD making and
manipulation. See
our website for
system
Cat. XC-4814
.95
requirements. $
249
KIT OF THE MONTH
Micromitter Stereo FM Transmitter Kit
Transmit quality audio to your
FM stereo!
Ref: Silicon Chip
December 2002.
Connect your
iPod™/CD/MP3
player to this
Micromitter, and then
tune into it on your FM
stereo system. It uses a surface mount BH1417F
processor to provide a compact and reliable FM
transmitter design. It is crystal locked to eliminate
frequency drift, and the reproduction is great. Kit
supplied with PCB, case, silk
Cat. KC-5341
$
.95
screened front panel, and all
electronic components.
Interactive Plasma Disk
Cat. GH-1047
$
.95
34
Cat. GH-1048
$
.95
69
Cooling and entertaining!
Each fan features 5 super bright LEDs. When
they spin, they display 64 incredible patterns and
effects. The blades are made from soft foam,
so they are safe for kids. Three types available:
Desktop Fan GH-1077
Requires 2 x AA batteries.
Car Fan with Suction Base GH-1078
Powered by car’s 12V supply.
Gooseneck Fan GH-1079
Requires 4 x C and 4 x AA batteries.
Cat. GH-1078
$
.95
Cat. GH-1079
$
.95
24
A great light show! This flat panel
plasma disk produces an amazing
display of blue light which will
respond to your touch, voice or
music. It measures 152(dia)mm, Cat. GH-1530
and includes a mains adaptor.
$
.95
49
Stadium Supertool Precision
Drill / Engraver Set
High power!Using a robust 10
watt motor that operates up to
7,500 revolutions per minute, this
Stadium Supertool is ideal for
drilling, shaping, cleaning, grinding,
and erasing. Supplied in a handy
carry case with a range of attachments. Cat. TD-2464
$
.95
60Pc Drill Accessories Set
Versatile attachments! Suitable for
drilling, polishing, engraving, grinding,
sanding and cutting. Housed in
an 8 compartment mini storage
case it includes many parts to
get the job done. Cat. TD-2404
$
.95
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
2005
49
Animated Lightshow Fans
Cat. GH-1077
$
.95
?
Our new 2005
400+ page Catalogue
is available next month!
Get it with April Silicon
Chip Magazine
or at your local store!
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
69
Dr Video Kit MkII
An even better video stabiliser!
Ref: Silicon Chip June ‘04.
Movie companies deliberately
tamper with the video signal
to restrict copying, but this robs
you of the true high quality
picture your system is capable of
and you deserve. Get the picture you paid for and
strip out these annoying signals from composite or
S-video. Kit includes PCB, case, panels Cat. KC-5390
$
.95
and all electronic components.
30 Min Super Fast AA/AAA
Battery Charger
99
March 2005
Fantastic price!
New
This easy to use camera fits
improved model
with
32MB
in the palm of your hand!
internal memory
The recorded video can be
transferred to a computer for
editing, or simply viewed directly on
any TV with AV inputs.
Supplied with camera bag,
cables and software.
•3.1 mega pixel software
resolution for stills.
•1.5" colour LCD
screen.
•5 layer glass lens.
•32MB internal memory
SAVE
Was $249
•SD/MMC expansion slot
$50
Cat. QC-3230
•4x digital zoom
$
.00
•Internal microphone and lots more!
Need to charge fast?
How about half an hour!
It charges 2 x AAA or
4 x AA, Ni-MH or Ni-Cd
Batteries not
batteries. Automatic
included
switching to trickle charge
with a microprocessor
keeping an eye on things.
An array of safety features are included Cat. MB-3538
$
.95
and mains plugpack is supplied.
79
Corner Mounting Dome
Dummy Camera
Extremely realistic!
The metal, triangular shaped
bracket mounts into a corner for the
impression of wide angle surveillance.
The 70mm dome houses a dummy
Cat. LA-5312
camera, so you could replace it with a
$
.95
working camera for genuine applications.
29
Dome Dummy Camera with
Right Angled Bracket
Versatile mounting!
This dummy camera is
designed to mount onto a
vertical wall or panel for high
visibility and improved
deterrence. The 70mm dome
houses a dummy camera, so you
could replace it with a working
camera for genuine applications.
Cat. LA-5311
$
.95
19
Rechargeable 40 Channel UHF
Transceiver Deal
Great range, great
features!
Since the outstanding
success of our popular
DC-1010 transceiver, it
only seemed logical to
refine the design, adding
a few enhancements
along the way. It is a lot
more compact, measuring just 53(W) x 95(H) x
32(D)mm. It uses a small rechargeable battery pack,
and is supplied with a dual charging cradle. You can
still of course use AAA batteries as a backup. Four
step scrambling is also provided for private
communications, making this transceiver just plain
fantastic! Supplied with one
transceiver and a charging
SPECIAL OFFER!
cradle. Cat. DC-1025
Buy a DC-1025 pack
$
.95
& an Extra Transceiver
(DC-1028)
for just $129.90
Extra Rechargeable
Save $30
Batteries Cat. DC-1029
89
$9.95
19
1
Motorcycle Alarm
Stop thieves dead in their tracks!
It has an ear piercing 120dB siren, and is triggered
by a number of events. Supplied with electronic
black box controller 90(W) x 32(H) x 75(D)mm, two
slimline key fob remote controls,
wiring looms, red flashing
LED warning light, and
siren.
Cat. LA-9020
$
.95
69
Microwave Sensor for Car Alarms
Extra security!
Microwave sensors send out
ultra high frequency sound
waves, and detect the
reflections. It has an effective
range of 3m, sensitivity
adjustment, and relay output.
CCD Colour Dome Camera
with Pan / Tilt Function
Versatile monitoring!
Few surveillance devices can match the
versatility of a pan/tilt camera. Wether you want
to concentrate on particular areas, or have a
large area to cover, the control is at
your fingertips. This camera is
integrated into a weatherproof
dome housing, suitable for ceiling
mounting. Just use the remote
control to follow the action. It uses a 1/3"
Panasonic Colour CCD Sensor to provide quality
420TV line
Cat. QC-3497
resolution
$
.00
video.
499
Cat. LA-9030
$
.95
29
2 Channel Video Web Server
with Email Alert
Remotely monitor your system!
IP (Internet Protocol) surveillance has revolutionised
the way we monitor and record in many surveillance
situations. This web server can be connected to an
existing setup, and transmits up to 12fps at 640 x
480 resolution. It has two video inputs
and four alarm inputs to
email you when one is
triggered. Cat. QC-3394
$
.00
399
LED Map Reading Light
SAVE
$2
Don’t get lost in the dark!
Great for map reading
in the dark, it
features a 300mm
adjustable
Cat. ST-3059
gooseneck and
$ .95
cigarette lighter plug. Was $9.95
7
Car Super Tweeter Bargain
Fantastic value! They have a frequency
response of 6 to 20kHz and 40WRMS power
handling.
Cat. CS-2218
$ .00 ea
5
Cat. AS-3190
$
.95
34
Colour Video Doorphone
Top quality!
The colour camera, and LCD screen
give you excellent clarity to the
picture. Supplied with all mounting
hardware and wiring.
Expand the system! Buy an extra colour Cat. QC-3606
receiver QC-3607 with your video
$
.00
doorphone for just $199. Save $150!
399
Automotive Battery and
Alternator Tester
Power Window Closers
Let your alarm wind up your windows!
This unit interfaces with your car alarm to
automatically wind up electric
power windows when
you arm your alarm. It
can be used with
positive or negative
triggered windows, and of course
you do need to have power windows
Cat. LR-8851
already fitted. Two models available:
$
.95
Two Door Version Cat. LR-8851
Cat. LR-8853
Four Door Version Cat. LR-8853
$
.95
8
49
59
Non-Slip Dashboard Mats
Roof Mount 7" Monitor
Great versatility!
It offers wide viewing
angles, image reverse,
and more!
Was
Cat. QM-3752
$399
$
.00
299
2
SAVE
$100
Ideal for rear seat
viewing!
It has integrated dome
lights in the console, so
you can replace your
factory interior light.
Was $419
Cat. QM-3751
$
.00
379
SAVE
$40
Wireless Colour CMOS Camera
with Infrared Illumination
SAVE
$100
Buy an additional camera
119.00
Cat. QC-3275 for just $
Cat. QC-3274
$
.00
199
SAVE
$60
B&W Video Doorphone
See who’s at your door before
you let them in! The 4" screen
lets you see your visitors, and you
can talk to them through the
handset. Supplied with all
mounting hardware and wiring.
Expand the system! Buy an extra B&W
Receiver QC-3603 with your video
doorphone for just $99. Save $80!
Simple tester for a simple
problem.
Don’t get caught with
a faulty spark plug.
Bright neon illumination
indicates spark presence.
19
Cat. QC-3602
$
.00
199
Cat. TS-1530
$
.95
14
Cat. QP-2264
$ .95
5
3 - 28V Wireless Auto Tester
Cat. GG-2250
$ .95
5
7” Widescreen TFT LCD Monitors for Cars
Standard Mount
7" Monitor
89.00
Cat. QC-3271 for just $
Neon Spark Plug Tester
Stay safe on the roads!
Incorrect tyre pressures
can have adverse
affects on handling and
stopping distance. Keep check on your tyre
pressures easily. 0 to 150PSI range.
Cat. GG-2310
$
.95
Great on the dash!
They will keep small items
in place such as mobile
phones or sunglasses.
Their uses are endless,
and they are washable.
Measures 170 x 100mm,
supplied as a pair.
Buy an additional camera
A quality portable iron!
Make
roadside electrical
repairs, or just
avoid running mains extension leads
when doing automotive work! 2.5m
lead with cigarette lighter plug.
Digital Tyre Pressure Gauge
Or 2 for
$8
169
12VDC 60W Soldering Iron
Keep an eye on your car battery!
This tester will check battery
condition, and that your alternator is
charging properly.
Was $13.50
Cat. QP-2262
SAVE
$ .95
$4.55
$80
Covert surveillance made easy!
You can monitor the transmitting camera from up
to 100m away, complete with audio. The camera
can be mains powered using the supplied
adaptor, or with a 9V battery.
Cat. QC-3270
Ltd qty.
.00
Was $249 $
Night vision!
The camera features 12 IR LEDs that
automatically switch on in low
light conditions. The strong
metal construction offers
durability, and the camera
can be mains powered using the
supplied adaptor, or with a
9V battery. Ltd qty. Was $299
5 x 8" Horn Speaker
Ideal for alarms!
This attractive unit in high
impact white plastic features
a special bracket for maximum
flexibility in mounting. Ideal for any
outdoor application including marine.
20WRMS power handling with 8 ohm
impedance.
Mini Wireless CMOS Colour Camera
with Audio
SAVE
Safe and easy voltage detection.
When positive voltage is detected, it will buzz,
vibrate, and light up. It is safe to use
with ECUs, air bags,
sensors, and
transducers etc.
Cat. QP-2212
$
.95
29
See our website for full features & specs
SAVE
$40
Dash Mount 7" Monitor
Retractable!
This unit folds down to
store into a single DIN
space (standard car
stereo space) so it will go
unnoticed.
Cat. QM-3753
Was
$
.00
$449
SAVE
$50
399
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
64MB USB 2.0 Flash Disk with
Built-In Card Reader
Extremely versatile memory device!
As well as having 64MB of on-board storage,
this flash disk also has a card reader
for use with SD, MMC,
and Memory Stick
(including Pro and
Duo). Full speed USB
2.0 data transfer and a
Cat. XC-4768
compact 28(W) x 80(H) x 20(D)mm
$
.95
package.
64
300k Pixel SurfCam USB Web Camera
Video conferencing and more!
It uses a 300k pixel colour
CMOS sensor with auto
exposure and white balance for
optimum performance. Software
included for creating
Cat. QC-3223
greeting cards and
$
.00
photo albums.
35
19
World Renowned Media
Verbatim media is top quality, with
reliability recognised worldwide.
High Performance 700MB/
80Min CD-R Cat. XC-4707
CD-RW Rewritable 700MB
80Min 12X 5Pk Cat. XC-4701
Dual Layer 8.5GB 2.4X
DVD+R Cat. XC-4744
Cat. XC-4744
$ .95 EA
11
9
USB Phone Charger / Mini Massager
12
Featuring 1.5" micro
speakers, & an internal
amplifier, they sound
great.
It all folds up to a neat
286g package when
not in use too.
Powered by 4 x AAA
batteries.
•iPod not included.
Was
$2.95
$3.59
$3.95
$5.25
$12.95
$24.90
$12.95
89
1
Now
$2.45
$2.79
$2.95
$3.95
$9.95
$19.95
$9.95
Save
$0.50
$0.80
$1.00
$1.30
$3.00
$5.00
$3.00
Cat. MI-5100
$
.95
44
150W (450W Surge) 12VDC to 230VAC
Electrically Isolated Inverter
SAVE
$31
Cat. MI-5102
$
.95
48
Switchmode Dual Stage Lead-Acid
Battery Chargers
Suits sealed or unsealed
Lead-Acid batteries!
These fully automatic
chargers use switchmode technology to efficiently
charge high capacity batteries. They are housed in a
robust metal frame, can be powered from 110 or
240V, feature fan cooling, and include 700mm fly
leads with heavy duty battery clips. The two larger
models also feature an LED bargraph to indicate
charging status. See website for full details & specs.
12V <at> 6A
Cat. MB-3610
$
.95
79
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
Cat. XC-5163
$
.95
Great Prices on These Modified Square
Wave Inverters
MI-5102
Was $79.95
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
12V <at> 12A
Cat. MB-3612
$
.95
99
Simple, but effective!
This cable
connects to two
USB A ports,
effectively doubling the
current available to the peripheral
device. It has a USB B plug on
the end, and is 1m long.
Cat. WC-7750
$
.95
14
2.4GHz Wireless Yagi Antenna
Boost your wireless range!
This antenna is suitable for a range of
2.4GHz uses, and provides around
8dB of gain. It has an SMA socket for
connection.
Cat. AR-3272
$
.95
Image Media Player
3
SAVE
$15
49
129
Great for short runs!
They are only regular Cat 5, but work
fine. Blue in colour. Ltd qty.
1m Pk5
YN-8181 1.5m Pk 5 YN-8182
2m Pk 2 YN-8183 3m Pk 2
YN-8184
Cat. YN-8183/4
Was $6 Cat. YN-8181/2 Was $4
$ .50
$
.00
Save
Save $2.50
$3
MI-5100
Was $59.95
Save a bundle!
By using rechargeable batteries, you not only reduce
waste, you save yourself money! Ni-MH capacities
now rival alkaline counterparts, so you get long run
times from each charge. See our website for battery
chargers.
Cat
SB-2444
SB-1723
SB-1700
SB-1706
SB-2429
SB-2460
SB-2467
No more fading memories!
Transfer all of you VHS,
Betamax, and camcorder
tapes to DVD using your
computer’s DVD burner. It
includes powerful editing
software to add colour and transitional effects, as
well as sound tracks if desired.
Cat. XC-4809
Supports composite and S-Video $
.00
inputs, and PAL or NTSC sources.
100W (300W Surge) 12VDC to 230VAC
Electrically Isolated Inverter
Cat. GG-2268
$
.95
Massive portable storage!
Instantly add gigabytes of
storage to your PC or
notebook. You can use
any 2.5" IDE HDD, and then
plug it into your USB 2.0 port
for super fast backup, transfer, and
Cat. XC-4678
$
.95
storage. Includes carry pouch, cable,
and drivers (only required for Win98).
USB Power Booster Cable
USB 2.0 DVD Maker
Great for small appliances!
Suited for low demand
devices like battery chargers,
incandescent lamps, fax
machines etc. See our website for full details.
Great Savings on Rechargeable
Ni-MH Batteries
Type
AAA 650mAh
AAA 900mAh
AA 1650mAh
AA 2000mAh
C 4500mAh
D 9000mAh
9V 200mAh`
19
Save on Panduit Cat 5 Cables
Cat. XC-4701
$ .75 PK
No flat batteries,
no sore muscles!
Charge your mobile
phone from your USB
port, or ease away
the stress of the day. It
suits Nokia, Siemens,
Samsung, and Sony Ericsson
phones.
Cat. XC-5028
$
.95
Portable iPod / MP3 Player
Dock and Speakers
Utilise USB power and take
the strain off your eyes.
A 50mm diameter glass lens
provides great magnification
while a built in lamp
Cat. ST-2809
$
.95
lights your work.
1
Highly efficient cooling!
Achieve up to 14°C better
cooling by using this air duct
to pipe fresh cool air to your
CPU. It is flexible and
extendable between
Also
90 and 300mm
suitable for
long. Suitable
Amplifiers!
for 80mm fans.
149
USB Magnifier Lamp
Cat. XC-4707
$ .65 EA
2.5" IDE - USB 2.0 Hard Disk Drive Case
CPU Ventilation Duct
24V <at> 6A
Cat. MB-3614
$
.95
99
Digital slide shows
on your TV!
Just insert your
memory card and plug
it into the composite input on your TV! Cat. XC-4857
It also acts as a card reader when
$
.00
connected to your PC.
SAVE
Was $149.00
119
$30
USB Radio and Remote Control
Radio on your PC!
Receive, play, and
record FM radio
stations through an
ultra-stable phaselocked-loop (PLL) tuning
system for superior
reception. Includes an IR remote
control which can also be used with
software such as MS PowerPoint.
Cat. XC-4880
$
.95
79
Remote Controlled Mains Switch
Remote switching of appliances!
This wireless mains system can
support up to five outlets, each
with their individual On/Off
buttons on the remote control.
They are rated at a maximum of
1000 Watts, so please check
the power consumption of high
current devices. Supplied with
one remote control, and one
mains switch. SAA APPROVED.
Extra mains switches
Cat. MS-6102 $29.95ea.
Cat. MS-6100
$
.95
39
20A Solar Charging Controller with LCD
Protect your batteries!
This microprocessor controlled
unit is capable of handling all
of your solar charging
requirements. It has an array of
features including adjustable
charging voltage, automatic dusk-till-dawn
on/off, overload protection, and a whole
lot more. See our website for full details. Cat. MP-3129
$
.95
169
3
Air Powered Jet Hawk Glider
LED Velcro Safety Band
Flea Exterminating Pet Comb
Launch it like a rocket and watch
it soar like a hawk!
Pump up the air powered
launcher and send your Jet Hawk
glider soaring 500 feet (150m) into
the wild blue skies! It includes
a safety feature to disable
launching in horizontal or
vertical positions.
610mm wing-span.
Be safe, be seen!
Use this LED safety
band when you are
out jogging, walking
the dog, on your bike, and more. It consists of four
red LEDs in an adjustable 30mm wide Velcro band
that can be set to flashing or
Cat. ST-3026
steadily on. Battery included.
$ .95
Chemical free Flea
killing!
The comb emits an
electronic charge to kill
fleas on contact. It is
suitable for use on cats and
short-haired dogs, and
requires 2 x AA batteries.
Measures 155(L) x 45(D) x 90(H)mm.
Cat. GT-3440
59
$
Remote Controlled Secret Farter
The new millennium’s
whoopee cushion!
Activated by a remote
control, it has three realistic
fart sounds.
Cat. GH-1088
19.95
$
High Resolution 5kg Hanging Scales
Ideal for the kitchen or tackle box!
The EL backlit LCD display indicates
weight with a resolution of 1g and
accuracy of +/-2g. They are highly
sensitive and suited to a wide
range of
Cat. QM-7230
applications.
$
.95
39
Cat. XC-0195
Great for the car or home!
Here is a great way to enjoy movies, music, and
picture slide shows on your TV or PC monitor. It
accepts many common memory cards so all you need
to do is load the files on the card, pop it in and you're
away! The IR remote control operates all functions,
including great features such as image zoom, image
rotate, slide shows, and various other great functions.
It supports MPEG4 encoded files in MPG, DAT, and
AVI format, and
Cat. XC-4865
can also play music
$
.00
and image files.
See our website for
full details.
Measures 125(W) x
22(H) x 83(D)mm.
Alcohol Breath Tester with
LCD Readout
Stay safe and under the limit on the
roads! This unit is very compact &
features an integrated LCD to give you an
actual readout of your blood
alcohol content..
While providing a good
indication of BAC, it should
not be relied on for precise
results, and you should never
drink and drive.
199
Cat. QM-7294
12VDC Electric Blanket
Slimline 3 LED Book Light
MPEG4 Media Player
19
69.95
$
29.95
$
Stylish and functional!
It acts just like a normal running
message display, but is only the
size of an ordinary name tag! It
can be programmed with a
message of up to 50 characters,
with adjustable scroll speed.
39.95
A great gag for all occasions.
They make a fart sound when
tipped upside down.
Cat. GH-1080
Great for parties!
$
.95
Cat. GH-1202
Electronic Name & Message Badge
$
Farting Salt n Pepper Shakers
Compact and portable!
While providing adequate light for
reading, it is soft enough to not
disturb your sleeping partner. It
measures just 40(W) x 105(L) x
10(D)mm, and
Cat. ST-3980
requires two
$ .95
CR2450 batteries.
9
Marvin the AutoScan FM Radio Robot
A great radio!
Touch his head to scan for stations
and it will lock on to the first one
found. Stands 140mm tall.
Cat. AR-1772
Requires 4 x AA
$
.95
batteries.
19
PLANNING A TRIP OVER THE EASTER BREAK?
Keep warm on long car trips!
It is made from 100% Terylene
fabric and contains a safe, low
voltage electric element that
heats the blanket and keep
you warm. Measures 1.5m x 1.1m.
Heated Travel Mug
with Temp Display
Cat. GH-1205
49.95
$
12 / 240V Heated Foot Massager
Hard day at work?
Give your feet some tender loving
care. Slip them into the boot
shaped massager & soothe those
aching feet. Supplied with a mains
and car voltage adaptor, it
measures 304(L) x 304(W) x
190(H)mm.
Multi-Voltage Car Adaptor
Very versatile!
It has 7 different voltages
between 1.5 and 12V at up to
1.5A. 7 plugs are included for
use with many common devices.
Suitable for use on 12V or 24V
systems.
Hot coffee all trip long!
Four temperature settings between
29°C and 71°C allow you to set the
ideal temperature to Cat. GH-1302
keep your drink at.
$
.95
Requires 12VDC.
39
Cat. GH-1755
39.95
$
A must have for every
recreational fisherman!
It includes a 14 in 1
multi tool, 0 - 6kg scales,
and an LED hand torch, all
in a convenient
Cat. TD-2053
belt pouch.
$
.95
Pocket Knife with Removable LED Torch
Ideal for fishing or camping!
The half
serrated
70mm
blade
locks into place to prevent it
from slipping, and the bright
LED torch can be removed for
Cat. TH-1902
use.100mm long when folded.
$ .95
Must be over 16 years old to purchase.
9
24.95
$
Floats if dropped in water!
It is completely waterproof, and
stands about 160mm tall.
Was $12.95
How far is the next turn off?
Automatically convert a map’s
scale distance to real distance by
rolling the small wheel along the
desired route. It works with any
map scale and displays in
kilometres or miles.
Cat. XC-0375
19
$
.95
Cat. ST-3033
9
$
.95
SAVE
$3
1W Luxeon LED Head Torch
12V Camping Shower
29
Cat. MP-3014
Mini Waterproof
Camping Lantern
Digital Map
Distance Calculator
Fishing Tool Set
4
9
.95
A touch of luxury!
Wash away the cares of the day no matter how far from civilisation
you are! The camping shower
allows you to take a shower
wherever you are.
Cat. YS-2800
Powered by your
$
.95
vehicle’s 12V battery.
19
8L Collapsible Bucket
No need for wasted
storage space!
This bucket collapses down to just
255 x 35mm when not in use.
Measures 255 x 230mm Cat. GH-1260
$
.95
open with an 8 litre
capacity.
14
Ultra bright!
This compact little beauty will light up
like no other. It produces extremely
bright, super white light, all from a
lightweight and compact package.
Requires 3 x AAA
Cat. ST-3321
$
.95
batteries.
69
5W Luxeon LED Hand Torch
Blinding white light!
If you need a super bright
torch, this one’s for you. It
houses a super bright 5W
Luxeon LED which is the brightest on offer at 120
Lumens. Requires
Cat. ST-3338
SAVE
$
.95
6 x AA batteries.
$20
Was $149.95
129
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
Camera and Equipment Cases
A worthwhile investment!
Protect your valuable camera, mobile
phone, or PDA with a tough carry
case. The outer case is made from
semi-hard PVC with soft fabric lining,
this case is able to be attached to almost anything
using the carabineer. Three sizes available:
Small: 85(L) x 37(H) x 115(D)mm
$8.95
Cat. AR-1440
Medium: 80(L) x 35(H) x 131(D)mm $8.95
Cat. AR-1442
Large: 105 (L) x 60(H) x 130(D)mm $9.95
Cat. AR-1444
Neck Cooling System
Beat the heat!
Keep cool and comfortable while
wearing this device around your
neck. A quiet motor drives a tiny fan
to create an evaporative cooling system. Add a few
drops of water to the neck cooler and Cat. GH-1759
$
.95
away you go. Supplied with a
water bottle for evaporating.
29
Novelty Dripping Sound Box
Select your victim!
Just hide it in a someones bedroom,
and it will make a sound like a
dripping tap until they turn on the
light. It will infuriate them while they
try and find it, only for it
to stop when exposed Cat. GT-3280
tolight again!
$
.95
49.95
Get a great massage on the go!
It fits over most seats with the
use of elastic straps, and the built
in heater has three different
heating levels. Three independent
motors target the upper back,
lower back, and thighs.
Cat. GH-1753
Supplied with car and
$
.95
mains adaptors.
49
Anti-Fog 5" Shaving Mirror
with FM Radio
The Amazing Flygun!
Cat. GT-3282
14.95
$
Electric Shock
Reaction Game
$
Optional Voice Cards
34.95
Love to hate it!
It sounds just like a mosquito when
hidden in a dark spot. It will infuriate
someone while they try and find it,
only for it to stop when exposed to
light again!
Cat. GH-1095
Remote Controlled Massage Seat Cover
Pad with Built in Heater
29
$
Novelty Buzzing
Mosquito Box
Keep the kids entertained!
The Amazing Flygun is a safe,
fun, and effective method of
killing flies and mosquitoes. Launch
the spring powered swatter at your
target! It is safe, fun and really does
work!
Cat. YS-5545
KILLS
$ .95
COCKROACHES
TOO!
7
Shocking Lie Detector
Liar liar, pants on fire!
Your mates will tremble as you
question them about the size of
fish they say they caught. If they
lie, they will receive a mild
shock. Great fun at your next
party. HONEST!
As seen on Channel 9’s
Merrick and Rosso
Unplanned, dubbed...
The Pain Machine!
Great fun for the whole family!
The missiles launch spectacularly into
the air with the use of the hand
pump. They launch
Cat. GT-3006
over 30m into
$
.95
the air!
29
44.95
Shocking Tank Battle Set
Novelty Boss Voodoo Doll
19.95
$
Show your boss what you really
think! Twist his arms, break
his legs, and he will be
begging for you to
Cat. GT-3104
$
.95
come back to work
with a pay rise.
Great fun for every one.
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
English, French, & German
English, Spanish, & Italian
Mandarin & Japanese
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
$24.95
$24.95
$19.95
XC-0187
XC-0188
XC-0189
Talking Digital Watch with Alarm
Don’t be late!
This watch announces the time at the
touch of a button. It is great for young
children to help read the time, or the
vision impaired. It has various alarm
sounds to get you out of bed including
a rooster crow.
Cat. XC-0258
19.95
$
Noise Cancelling Headphones
Sleep soundly!
They are designed for use in noisy
environments such as an aircraft or
cars reducing background noise by as
much as 15dB. Powered by two AAA
batteries (included), they come with a
Cat. AA-2054
1.8m lead terminated
$
.95
with a 3.5mm stereo
plug.
49
Portable Plasma Ball
A sphere of magical plasma light
that you can take anywhere!
It creates a dramatic display of
multicoloured light under a handblown glass dome. Requires 2 x AA
batteries and measures Cat. GH-1527
135(Dia) x 145(H)mm.
$
.95
39
Plasma Clock
Stylish and functional!
With the option of table or wall
mounting, the cool electric blue glow
of the plasma will add a new
dimension to your décor. It measures
291(H) x 177(W) x 107(D)mm, and a
mains adaptor is included. Cat. GH-1525
59.95
$
4 in 1 Mars Rover, Boat & Submarine
This thing will go anywhere!
Whether it is driving over rough terrain,
crossing water, or diving deep into it, this great craft
will do it. It uses a skid steer drive system, or detach
the wheels for full use of the props. Cat. GT-3420
Approx 180mm long.
$
.95
49
99.95
$
BOTH COLOURS
29.95
$
$
Cat. GH-1099
Electronic Toy Safes
Ideal protection
against… siblings!
Features an illuminated
keypad and
programmable
combination, with
voice or sound effects.
Pink Cat. GH-1310
Blue Cat. GH-1311
•185(H) x 135(W) x 125(D)mm.
Cat. GH-1093
Remote control battles with a twist!
These futuristic looking remote control
tanks have IR cannons to fire at each
other.Look out
though, if you get hit,
you will receive a mild
shock! Great fun.
•Supplied as a pair.
Air Powered Rocket
Launcher and Pump
11 Language Talking Translator
Over 700 phrases!
It can cross translate between
eleven languages on its own, and by
using the optional voice cards, it can
play them at the touch of a button.
It has a host of other functions and
is a must-have for overseas
Cat. XC-0186
travellers.
Shave in the shower and
save time!
This 'anti-fog' mirror won't
get steamed up, has a digital
clock, and an AM/FM radio.
Supplied with handy razor
holder, suction cups, screen
hook and hanger cord. Cat. GH-1057
14
How quick are you?
Wait for the light to
change from red to
green, then hit the
button. If you are the
last, you will receive a
mild shock, but don’t
jump the gun or
you will get one too!
Bookmark Electronic Dictionary
So slimline it’s a bookmark!
Holding a vocabulary of over 50,000
words, this dictionary’s vocabulary is
about five times better than the
average human. The flexible keypad
fits neatly between pages, and it
even has calculator Cat. XC-0185
and alarm functions.
$
.95
24
Novelty Animated "Fat Bastard" Doll
A must for Austin Powers
fans! The Scottish-accented,
repulsive character from the
movie is a barrel of laughs. He
will belch, fart, or say one of
eight hilarious
Cat. GT-3106
phrases.
$
.95
Ltd qty.
29
5
Piezo Pocket Gas Torch
Compact size!
It is ideal for heating small
objects, camping, and more!
It has an adjustable flame up
to 1300oC, and uses standard
Butane gas.
Was $14.95
SAVE
$5
Cat. TS-1662
$ .95
9
Solder Flux Pen
Ideal for SMD rework!
Applying the flux to solder joints will aid re-flow
when heating to remove components, or it can be
applied to tracks for excellent
Cat. NS-3035
SAVE
solder-ability. Was $12.95
$ .95
$3
9
Surfboard SMD Soldering / Handling
Trainer Kit
SMD made easy!
It consists of a PCB with many
different pad sizes, which
SAVE
$5
conform to standard SMD
component dimensions. It even
includes components and instructions to
Cat. KJ-7000
make a working twin LED flasher – all
$
.95
with SMD! Was $24.95
Vacuum Bench Vice
18W Professional Soldering Iron
Die-cast aluminium
construction!
Great if you only occasionally
need a vice on your workbench.
It attaches and detaches without
leaving a mark.
Was $57.95
Cat. TH-1766
$
.95
SAVE
Perfect for precise soldering!
It offers rapid heat up, instant recovery, stainless
steel barrel, and iron clad chrome plated tip.
$10
Was $34.95
Cat. TS-1551
$
.95
DURATECH Soldering Iron
40W
Bench-top Work Mat
Protect your bench!
This durable A3 (450 x
300mm) PVC cutting mat is
just the thing to protect your
work bench from damage.
You can cut, solder, write,
and not risk damage to
your bench-top. Was $9.95
SAVE
$5
29
47
SAVE
$2
Cat. HM-8100
$ .95
7
Ideal for hobbyists and handy-work!
Stainless steel barrel, and
an
orange cool
grip, impact resistant
handle. Mains powered,
fully approved.
Cat. TS-1475
SAVE
Was $16.95
$
.95
$4
12
PCB Etching Kit
60W SMD Soldering Tweezers
An ideal kit to get started!
Includes an assortment of
copper boards, etching
solution, tweezers, a
photosensitive PCB and
developer.
Cat. HG-9990
Was $24.95
$
.95
The best way to
SAVE
solder SMD.
$30
Solder and desolder
small components or large flat
pack ICs. Tips available from 2
to 20mm. 2mm Cat. TS-1700
tips supplied.
$
.95
Was $99.95
SAVE
$5
19
69
19
SAVE THIS MONTH ON SELECTED TEST EQUIPMENT!
Low Cost DMM
•10A current.
•Transistor test.
•Diode test.
Was $9.95
SAVE
$2
Data Hold DMM
•10A current.
•Low battery indicator.
•Includes holster.
Was $14.95
SAVE
$4
Cat. QM-1520
$
.95
Cat. QM-1500
$ .95
Frequency DMM
•Temperature.
•Capacitance.
•Auto power off.
Was $49.95
SAVE
$10
Cat. QM-1320
$
.95
Inductance DMM
•Capacitance.
•Temperature.
•Transistor test.
Was $49.95
SAVE
$10
True RMS Auto
Ranging DMM
•Frequency.
•40M ohm resistance.
•Duty cycle.
Was $79.00
SAVE
$10
Cat. QM-1536
$
.00
69
IDEAL True RMS DMM
•High speed analogue
bargraph.
•Relative measurement.
•Duty Cycle.
•Cat III 600V.
•Limited lifetime
warranty.
Was $449.00
Cat. QM-1625
$
.00
399
6
SAVE
$50
RS-232 Auto
Ranging DMM
Auto Ranging DMM
•Capacitance.
•Bargraph.
•Frequency.
Was $59.95
•Duty cycle.
•Relative measurement.
•Frequency.
Was $69.95
SAVE
$15
Auto Ranging
RS-232 DMM
•Dual temperature.
•Cat III 1000V.
•4000 count.
Was $139.95
Cat. QM-1460
$
.95
129
SPECIAL BONUS!
Buy an Ideal multimeter
and receive a mini Ideal
bottle opener FREE!
While stocks last.
SAVE
$10
Cat. QM-1530
$
95
44
SAVE
$10
Cat. QM-1290
$
.95
Cat. QM-1628
$
.00
299
Cat. QM-1440
$
.95
49
199
•200A AC current.
•Vibrating AC voltage detection.
•Audible dangerous voltage.
•Cat III 1000V.
•Limited lifetime warranty.
Was $349.00
59
•RPM
•15A current.
•Dwell angle.
Was $59.95
•20A current.
•Recording.
•Bargraph.
Was $229.95
IDEAL True RMS
Clamp Meter
Cat. QM-1538
$
.95
Dwell Tacho DMM
Protek 506 - Auto
Ranging DMM
SAVE
$30
Cat. QM-1535
$
.95
27
19
39
SAVE
$10
SAVE
$7
Cat. QM-1526
$
.95
Cat. QM-1445
$
.95
39
•Capacitance.
•Relative measurement.
•Frequency.
Was $34.95
SAVE
$5
10
7
Auto Ranging DMM
Backlit Temp DMM
•Professional look.
•Continuity tester.
•Data hold.
Was $24.95
10MHz Velleman
Handheld Oscilloscope
•True RMS.
• dB measurement.
•10MHz sampling rate.
•High resolution LCD.
•Screen hold.
Was $349.00
SAVE
$50
SAVE
$50
Cat. QC-1916
$
.00
299
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
NEW HARDCORE ELECTRONICS!
Temperature Controlled Soldering Station
Great value! It features a high quality ceramic heating
element for accurate temperature control, adjustable
between 200 and 480°C. The soldering pencil
is lightweight, (45g excluding cable), so it is
comfortable for long periods. It is a
great station, so check out our
website for details.
In Stock
Cat. TS-1560
$
.00
Now
99
High Quality CAT III Multimeter Probes
A must for the professional!
They are made from strong
silicon rubber for durability and
flexibility, with adequate strain
relief and finger guards. Rated at
CAT III to pass 15A of current.
900mm Cat. WT-5335
Cat. WT-5335
120mm Cat. WT-5337
$
.95
24
This section is dedicated to what’s new
for the Hardcore Enthusiast.
High Power Luxeon LEDs
Multi Function ESD Safe
SMD Rework Station
The brightest LEDs in the world!
•Up to 25 Lumens per 1W LED.
•Up to 80 Lumens per 3W LED.
•Up to 120 Lumens per 5W LED.
•100,000 hours life expectancy.
•Fully dimmable.
•Superior ESD protection.
Complete SMD working
at your fingertips!
This robust unit features a
soldering pencil, and hot
blower for all rework applications.
The soldering pencil and hot blower
have individual temperature
adjustment, and the air flow can also
be varied. It is ESD safe for sensitive
components, and is ready to tackle a
myriad of tasks. See our website
for details.
Cat. TS-1570
$
.00
449
In Stock
Now
29
Quick and easy!
Checks AAA, AA, C, D, and 9V(N) type
batteries, and indicates their power
level on the easy-to-read, colour-coded
analogue display. Also checks bulbs
and fuses giving a "good"
Cat. QP-2252
or "replace" indication.
$ .95
150mm long.
9
IDEAL Non-Contact
60 - 400VAC Tester
Red
Orange
Green
White
Royal Blue
5W White LED
ZD-0440
Cat. QP-2274
$
.95
29
Digital PH Meter with LCD
Simple but effective!
It uses three LEDs to indicate battery
voltage, and another three to indicate
over-voltage, max voltage, and
charging status. It includes 600mm
leads and a magnetic base to secure it
while testing. Cat. QP-2258
$ .95
55Pc Computer Service Tool Kit
For the serious serviceman!
Housed in a soft leather case, it
contains a range of tools suitable
for computer servicing. It is a must
for service people and anyone who
does their own computer servicing.
Was $65
Cat. TD-2051
SAVE
$
.00
$15
SAVE
$3
Super Torque Driver Ratchet
Torque transfer compound.
It dramatically increases the amount of
torque you can apply to a screw head
without slipping. 14g bottle.
Was
SAVE
Cat. NM-2830
$13.95
$3
$
.95
Comfortable driving!
It accepts standard
driver bits,
adjustable and
lockable head angle,
with a rubber grip
handle. Was $13.95
10
Teletaper - Telephone Audio Tool
49
SAVE
$30.05
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
Cat. ZD-0420
$ .95
9
Cat. ZD-0422
$ .95
9
SAVE
$4
Industrial quality on a budget!
This fantastic unit has a FULL cast iron bed, frame,
and head stock assembly, just like industrial lathes.
It bristles with safety features including a plastic
chuck cover which must be down for the machine to
operate. This prevents you from starting the lathe
with the chuck-key in! We have not seen a product
of this quality, at this price. See website for details.
The cutting tools, drill chuck, and live centre and
all usually sold extra, costing over $100 more,
but are included in
$107.80
the price!
worth of parts
Was $899
already
included!
9
Cat. TL-4000
$
.00
799
The ULTIMATE driver bit set!
It contains just about every driver
bit you will ever use! They are all
made from strong tool steel, and
are built to last. See our website
for the full list of what’s inside.
Was $16.95 Cat. TD-2038
SAVE
$
.95
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
Luxeon LED Lenses
Wide and narrow beams!
These lenses are used to evenly
distribute light in the desired way.
Wide beam lens Cat. ZD-0420
Narrow beam lens Cat. ZD-0422
Cat. TD-2033
$ .95
100Pc Driver Bit Set
13
1+ $29.95
10+ $26.90
25+ $20.70
Precision Mini Metal Lathe Deal
50
Screwdriver Helper
Record phone
conversations!
It is designed for use in call
centres where a supervisor
can listen to, or record the
conversation. NOT AUSTEL
APPROVED.
Cat. QC-1990
Was $80
$
.95
ZD-0439
149
No toolbox should be
without one.
Strips wire
from 0.9mm
to 5.5mm,
made from a hardened Cat. TH-1825
alloy steel with rubber
$ .25
handles. Was $12.25
1+ $17.95
10+ $15.95
25+ $12.35
3W White Side Emitting
Extremely bright!
This laser module consists of a
10mW laser diode, lens,
and driver PCB. Simply
connect a 3VDC supply,
and you have a great high power laser. Datasheet
included.
Cat. ST-3117
$
.95
•Measures 65(L) x 11(dia)mm.
Wire Stripper / Cutter Pliers
9
ZD-0407
10mW Green Laser Module
79
1+ $69.95
10+ $62.95
25+ $48.90
1W White Side Emitting
9
Simple and accurate!
Useful for checking pH levels in
water, fish tanks, swimming pools,
and more! It is great in a chemical
lab for testing and checking
solutions, and the large LCD is easy
to read. It has a range of 1 – 14pH,
0.1pH resolution, and +/-0.2pH
accuracy.
Cat. QM-1670
$
.95
$14.95
$14.95
$16.95
$16.95
$16.95
White
ZD-0430
Red
ZD-0432
Orange
ZD-0434
Green
ZD-0436
Blue
ZD-0438
3W LEDs 1+ $29.95
10+ $26.90
25+ $20.70
Battery / Charger / Alternator Tester
Great for every
tradesman’s pocket!
Gives an audible
and visual indication on energised
circuits. It has an unlimited lifetime
warranty, and is rated at CAT III 600V
ZD-0400
ZD-0401
ZD-0402
ZD-0404
ZD-0406
3W LEDs
Battery Bulb and Fuse Tester
Cat. WT-5337
$
.95
1W LEDs
$3
SAVE
$100
Digital Vernier Caliper
No more eye strain taking readings!
Cat. TD-2082
$
.95
79
The clear LCD shows the exact measurement in
millimetres or inches, so there is no guesswork
involved. •Accurate to 0.01mm.
7
IR Remote Control Tester Kit
Includes auxiliary output!
Ref: Silicon Chip January
2005. It lights an LED and
sounds a buzzer if an IR
code is detected. It also
features an output for
further analysis on an
oscilloscope. Kit supplied
with PCB, case, and all electronic
components.
Operating Fuel Cell Powered Model Car 20W "Schoolies Amp" Kit
Contains an actual working fuel cell!
You are provided with the equipment to make the
Oxygen and Hydrogen fuel (by electrolysis) and
then burn it in the fuel cell to make electricity! The
package comes with an illustrated 90+ page text
with suggestions for 30 experiments, and all model
parts.
Cat. KC-5407
$
.95
19
29
V8 Sounding Doorbell Kit
A Jaycar Exclusive
Cat. KT-2500
$
.00
299
A must for car enthusiasts!
Ref: SC Jan 2005. Be the envy
of your mates as they hear the
rumble when they press your
doorbell. You may have seen
commercially available units,
but nothing like this. It sounds just like a
V8, and has variable background noise
for tappets and valves etc, for an even
more realistic effect. 2 versions available:
Quick and easy!
Ref: SC Dec ’01.
Adapts to PC motherboards that have provisions
Cat. KC-5323
for on-board IR support. Includes
.95
PCB and all electronic components. $
21
Supplied with PCBs, silk-screened & machined case,
push button bell switch, speaker, hook-up wire, & all
electronic components. Includes the Cat. KC-5405
optional 120mm length of 100mm
$
.95
diameter pipe for that extra rumble!
Luxeon Star LED Driver Kit
79
Short Form V8 Doorbell Kit
Contains the working electronics only. Supplied with
PCBs, and all electronic components. No Cat. KC-5406
.95
case, speaker, or pushbutton etc supplied. $
YOUR LOCAL JAYCAR STORE
NEW SOUTH WALES
Albury
Ph (02) 6021 6788
Bankstown
Ph (02) 9709 2822
Bondi Junction Ph (02) 9369 3899
Brookvale
Ph (02) 9905 4130
Campbelltown Ph (02) 4620 7155
Erina
Ph (02) 4365 3433
Hornsby
Ph (02) 9476 6221
Newcastle
Ph (02) 4965 3799
Parramatta
Ph (02) 9683 3377
Penrith
Ph (02) 4721 8337
Silverwater
Ph (02) 9741 8557
St. Leonards Ph (02) 9439 4799
Sydney City
Ph (02) 9267 1614
Taren Point
Ph (02) 9531 7033
Wollongong
Ph (02) 4226 7089
VICTORIA
Coburg
Ph (03) 9384 1811
Frankston
Ph (03) 9781 4100
Geelong
Ph (03) 5221 5800
Melbourne
Ph (03) 9663 2030
Ringwood
Ph (03) 9870 9053
Springvale
Ph (03) 9547 1022
QUEENSLAND
Aspley
Ph (07) 3863 0099
Brisbane - Woolloongabba
Ph (07) 3393 0777
Gold Coast - Mermaid Beach
Ph (07) 5526 6722
Townsville
Ph (07) 4772 5022
Underwood
Ph (07) 3841 4888
AUSTRALIAN CAPITAL TERRITORY
Canberra
Ph (02) 6239 1801
TASMANIA
Hobart
Ph (03) 6272 9955
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Adelaide
Ph (08) 8231 7355
Clovelly Park Ph (08) 8276 6901
WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Perth
Ph (08) 9328 8252
NORTHERN TERRITORY
Darwin
Ph (08) 8948 4043
NEW ZEALAND
Hamilton
Ph (07) 846 0177
Newmarket - Auckland
Ph (09) 377 6421
Glenfield - Auckland
Ph (09) 444 4628
Wellington
Ph (04) 801 9005
Christchurch Ph (03) 379 1662
Freecall Orders Ph 0800 452 9227
8
USB Power Injector Kit
*This kit is not a toy. It is more a formal learning
instrument than a kit for home consumption.
PC Infrared Transceiver Kit
Full V8 Doorbell Kit
49
A great low cost amplifier!
Ref: SC Dec 2004. It uses a
simple but effective design to
give 20WRMS into a four or eight
ohm load. Kit supplied with PCB,
and all electronic components.
Requires +/- 25V power supply,
use KC-5347.
Cat. KC-5403
.95
Heatsink not included. $
Power 1W, 3W, and 5W Luxeon
LEDs from a 12V
source!
Ref: Silicon Chip
May ‘04.
Save $$$ off purchasing
pre-built drivers. Kit
includes PCB, and all
electronic components.
Fuel Mixture Display Kit
Is your car running
right?
Ref: SC Nov ’95. It
gives an indication
of fuel mixture via 10
LEDs. Kit includes PCB
and all electronic
components.
29
Cat. KC-5399
$
.95
29
SMS Controller Kit
Control appliances from anywhere!
Ref: Silicon Chip Nov 2004.
The SMS controller kit
works with Nokia 3210,
3310, 5110, and 6110
models to control electronic
outputs, and gives you a host
of control options. The possible uses are almost
endless! Kit includes PCB, preCat. KC-5400
programmed micro, and all electronic
$
.50
components. Requires Nokia data cable.
49
The SHORT CIRCUITS LEARNING SYSTEM
The Short Circuits learning system is a great way to learn
electronics. It is fun, informative, and you build great
projects along the way. Here is just one from Short Circuits 3…
Guitar Practice Amplifier Kit
Cat. KC-5195
$
.95
14
Universal +/- 15V Power
Supply Kit
Great for preamps!
Ref: SC Aug ’88.
Allows you to obtain
+15V, -15V, and +/15VDC depending on
configuration.
Includes PCB and
electronic components.
Cat. KC-5389
$
.95
A power boost for your USB port.
Ref: SC Oct 2004. This project allows
full current to be drawn from USB
peripheral devices. Kit includes PCB,
case, silk screened
and punched panels,
and all electronic
components.
Don’t annoy the neighbours! It has a guitar type input socket, small
speaker, and volume control. It sounds great! Kit supplied with PCB,
speaker, socket, and all electronic components. Instructions are in the
Short Circuits 3 book.
Theremin Synthesiser Kit
Cat. KC-5038
$
.95
13
Temperature Switch Kit
Simple design!
Offers a range between -30
to +130°C, set via
a small trimpot
with a relay
output. Includes
PCB, NTC thermistor,
Cat. KG-9140
and electronic components.
$
.95
21
Far cheaper than commercial units!
Ref: SC Aug ’00. The Theremin
Synthesiser
produces those
familiar science
fiction movie sound
effects when you
move your hand between
the metal plate and antenna. It has an
amazing range from shrieks to growls,
and is not just entertaining. The Beach
Boys used a Theremin
Also available prein their classic hit
built and tested
"Good Vibrations"!
Cat. AM-4025
Kit supplied with
$99
PCB,silk-screened and
machined case, metal plate,
Cat. KC-5295
antenna, speaker, and all
$
.95
electronic components.
Excellent functionality!
This kit indicates via LED
when the beam
is broken. Includes
PCB, IR RX/TX diodes,
magnifying lens, and all
electronic components.
11
Less emissions!
Ref: SC June ’98.
A high energy
0.9ms spark burns
fuel faster and
more efficiently to
give you more
Cat. KC-5247
power! Includes PCB, case, $
.95
and all electronic
components.
52
Car Turbo Timer Kit
LED Duty Cycle Meter Kit
PRICES VALID TO
END MARCH 2005
Cat. KG-9094
$ .95
High Energy Ignition Kit
Performance Electronics for Cars Book
Includes relay output!
Operate an extra injector or water pump etc. when they reach
a set duty cycle and a whole lot more! Includes duty
cycle generator for testing. Kit
includes PCB, and
all electronic
components.
14
5m IR Light Barrier Kit
44
Over 160 pages! The Performance Electronics for Cars Book from
Silicon Chip publications has chapters on modification and theory, as
well as the 16 projects. Here is just one… Cat. BS-5080 $19.80
Cat. KJ-8092
$
.50
Cat. KC-5375
$
.95
54
Save your turbo!
It idles you car for
a set time after
ignition switch-off
to aid in turbo cooling.
Includes PCB, case,
relay, and all
electronic
components.
Cat. KC-5254
$
.95
29
FOR INFORMATION AND ORDERING
TELEPHONE> 1800 022 888
INTERNET> www.jaycar.com.au
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
Hot stuff from DSE . . .
Dick Smith Electronics have submitted some of their “Iroda” range of
butane gas-powered tools.
Three such items are shown above.
On the left is the Solderpro 70k kit, a
versatile 4-in-1 device which offers
conventional soldering (equivalent to
a 25-80W iron), hot knife, blow torch
and heat blower functions, all in one
handy package.
Applications include electronics,
light gauge welding, brazing, light
plumbing, model building, arts and
crafts, thawing locks and much more.
The T-1105 Solderpro 70k kit has a
recommended retail of $78.86.
There is also a lower power version,
the T-1103 Solderpro 50k (30-70W
equivalent), which retails for $64.98.
Both of these irons in these kits are
also available as separate items: the
Solderpro 50 iron (T1102) is $39.98,
while the Solderpro 70 (T1104) is
$49.96
Other products shown above are the
T-1101 Pro Torch (centre) which sells
for $49.94 and has many applications
including brazing, plumbing, vehicle
repairs . . . even a chef’s torch! It is
refillable with butane. At right is the
T-1100 Micro Jet, a nifty little torch
which is powered by a refillable butane
gas lighter (supplied, shown in front).
This has a flame temperature up to
1300°C and has a windproof flame and
waterproof ignition system. As such it
also has applications in survival kits,
camping and first aid. Recommended
retail is $24.97.
Note: due to the fact that these
devices contain combustible gases,
they are classed as a hazardous shipping item and therefore cannot be
purchased on line or by mail order.
They are only available to personal
shoppers at Dick Smith Electronics or
PowerHouse stores.
Contact:
Dick Smith Electronics (all stores)
Aussie product wows
’em at Las Vegas CES
The innovative “Infusion” Portable Wireless Internet Radio was short-listed as one
of three finalists for the Best of CES 2005
Awards (“Audio To Go” category). The Las
Vegas Consumer Electronics show is the
world’s largest consumer electronics exhibition, attracting over 2600 exhibitors.
Exhibited by Torian, a small Australian IT
company, Infusion allows users to listen to
any radio station in the world that streams
through the World Wide Web, without the
need of a computer. It’s around the size of a
business card and allows travellers and those
stationed abroad to stay in touch with local
news, sports, and music.
Torian believes it is the first Australian
company to be short-listed for a major CES
show award.
Contact:
Torian
204 Johnston St Collingwood Vic 3066
Tel: (03) 8415 1994 Fax: (03) 8415 1982
Website: www.torian.com.au
STEPDOWN
TRANSFORMERS
60VA to 3KVA encased toroids
Reply Paid 500, PO Box 500,
Regents Park DC NSW 2143.
Tel: 1300 366 644 Fax: (02) 9642 9155
Website: www.dse.com.au
New 400W Wind Generator from Oatley
Following our featuring the 200W
Wind Generator kit from Oatley Electronics (SC Dec 2004) and our current
Windmill series, Oatley have advised
that a new 400W Wind Generator is
now available, priced at $599.00.
With a 1.4m rotor diameter and a
high-quality cast-aluminium body,
this very efficient wind generator has
siliconchip.com.au
a very low start-up and cut-in windspeed. Further details are available
from the Oatley Electronics website.
Contact:
Oatley Electronics
PO Box 89, Oatley NSW 2223
Tel: (02) 9584 3565 Fax: (02) 9584 3561
Website: www.oatleyelectronics.com
Harbuch Electronics Pty Ltd
9/40 Leighton Pl. HORNSBY 2077
Ph (02) 9476-5854 Fx (02) 9476-3231
March 2005 61
Ozitronics
www.ozitronics.com
Tel: (03) 9434 3806 Fax: (03) 9011 6220
Email: sales2005<at>ozitronics.com
4-Channel UHF Remote with Resets
K180v3 - $82.50
Modified & improved
version of original K180
kit. Now with individual
resets on each channel
when used in 'toggle'
mode. Rolling code for
high security. Pre-built
'keyfob' style transmitter.
Prices include GST – shipping extra.
Full documentation available from website.
Jaycar Electronics opens in Hornsby
Jaycar has opened a new store in the northern
Sydney suburb of Hornsby, to service the needs
of local professionals and electronics enthusiasts.
Located on George Street, just 300m from
Hornsby railway station, the store has plenty of
room to display Jaycar’s full range of products
and is staffed by enthusiasts who understand the
products they sell. Products include car alarm systems, test equipment, video
surveillance equipment, car audio, electrical and electronic tools, wire, cable,
accessories and kits.
Parking is plentiful with a number car spaces available at the front of the
store as well as and on the roof-top car park.
The store will employ up to five local staff and is located at 130 George St
Hornsby and can be contacted on 9476-6221.
Denon’s “ultimate” 10-channel home theatre amp
“be·he·moth n. Something enormous in size or power.”
It’s a term which aptly describes Denon’s most technologically advanced surround sound Home Theatre
amplifier to-date, the AVC-A1XV. Boasting no less than
16-channels of output capability, (with 10 x 170W fully
assignable channels), it can accommodate both audio and
video from up to four independent sources and distribute
them to four separate zones, with independent volume
control to each.
It is able to deliver a full 9:1 channel surround sound
system or two discrete 5.1 channel systems in different
rooms or a 7.1 channel system in the main room, 2.1
channel system in a second room and a mono system
in a third. In addition, power to any or all of the zones
can be turned on or off independently in order to reduce
power consumption.
The new Denon amplifier is compatible with every 6.1
and 5.1 channel surround sound format currently available, including Dolby, DTS and Dolby Pro-Logic II to THX
Ultra2 Cinema and Music, as well as THX surround EX
decoding. It also features THX 4.0/5.1/6.1 post processing and offers additional and useful DSP modes, making
it the most technologically featured Home Theatre A/V
amplifier on the market.
The AVC-A1XV also boasts the widest range of video
connections, including three HDMI, one DVI-D digital
video port and no less than six high-bandwidth HDTV
compatible component video inputs, plus IEEE – 1394
(Firewire) and RS232.
SILICON CHIP
WebLINK
For the best
in audio, the
AV C - A 1 X V
also boasts
a total of 14
audio/video
inputs and
connections
for up to two
high-resolution sources
such as DVDA or SACD. The AVC-A1XV also debuts Denon’s latest LINK
III technology that allows a direct ‘link’ to accept digital SACD
data from future Denon source units. A built-in Ethernet facilitates TCP/IP control capability and can accommodate any
future software/firmware upgrades.
The AVC-A1XV is the world’s first receiver to include twozone video conversion capability and HDTV switching with
on-board video up-conversion that automatically converts
S-Video or composite video input signals from DVD players,
VCRs or camcorders to a high quality component video signal.
This is an invaluable feature when using high-resolution plasmas, LCD TV monitors and projection Contact:
systems.
Audio Products Group
The AVC-A1XV is 67 O’Riordan St, Alexandria NSW 2015
available at authorised Tel: (02) 9669 3477 Fax: (02) 9578 0140
Denon retailers.
Website: www.audioproducts.com.au
How many times have you wanted to access a company’s
website but cannot remember their site name?
Here's an exciting new concept from SILICON CHIP: you
can access any of these organisations instantly by going to
the SILICON CHIP website (siliconchip.com.au), clicking on
WebLINK and then on the website graphic of the company
you’re looking for. It’s that simple.
62
Silicon
62 S
ilicon C
Chip
hip
Our website is updated daily, with over
5,500 products available through our
secure online ordering facility.
Features include semiconductor data
sheets, media releases, software downloads, and much more.
JAYCAR
JAYCAR ELECTRONICS
ELECTRONICS
Tel:
Tel: 1800
1800 022
022 888
888
WebLINK:
WebLINK: www.jaycar.com.au
www.jaycar.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
Implantable body transceiver for medical applications
Imagine a heart pacemaker (or other
medical implant) that can radio data
to a receiver . . . such things as device
faults, even body abnormalities that
might signal, for example, a looming
heart attack or stroke? Or a pill you can
swallow which will show your doctor
(by video) what’s wrong inside you?
It’s all possible, right now, thanks
to an intelligent radio transceiver
designed by Cambridge Consultants
(UK & US). The design is intended
for system-on-chip (SoC) solutions
and provides control and communications suitable for implantable medical
devices – a market currently growing
at double-digit rates.
The device will operate in the 402405MHz ‘MICS’ (Medical Implant
Communications Service) frequencies
– the band now emerging as a global
standard – and offers a communications range of 2m when implanted
under the skin.
A key attribute of Cambridge Consultants’ design is exceptional power
economy, consuming an average
current of less than 1mA (less than
1.7mA peak), for a 0.05% duty-cycle,
400kbits/second bi-directional communications application.
This would provide more than 10
years of activity from a lithium cell
in a typical pacemaker application.
However, the radio design also allows
the chip to be used for other systems
with short-term, high data rate communications requirements, such as
swallowable video imaging.
The low-IF (Intermediate Frequency) radio receiver architecture
employed in this design, adapted from
high-efficiency pager technology, also
offers better immunity to interference
than direct conversion receivers. The
tiny device requires just 10 compo-
Test Instruments Catalog
Emona Instruments, the Australiawide electronic and electrical test instruments supplier, has released their 2005
Test Instruments Catalog. Australia’s
only dedicated Test and Measuring
Instruments catalog, it is available in
hard copy or online.
Covering 72 pages of instrumentation and equipment for electronics and
electrical design, manufacturing, service and maintenance
and education, the catalog lists thousands of products
from acclaimed instrument and equipment manufacturers
including Tektronix, GW, Rigol, TTi, Kikusui, Pico, Seaward, ProTag, Escort, Stag, to name Contact:
a few and contains Emona Instruments
hundreds of new PO Box 15, Camperdown NSW 1450
products for 2005. Tel: 1800 632 953 (for free copy)
Website: www.emona.com.au
nents, enabling subcutaneous radios
to be the size of a button using systemon-chip technology.
Applications include pacemakers,
defibrillators, remote telemonitors, orthopaedic devices, pump controllers,
nerve stimulators and swallowable
imaging and diagnostic systems.
Contact:
Cambridge Consultants
451 D St, Boston, MA 02210, USA
Tel: (0011 1 617) 532 4700
Website: www.cambridgeconsultants.com
Output from a PC to a TV or projector
Want to display you PC output on a TV or projector? Microgram can help with a solution which is totally external
and does not require software drivers (hence no software
clashes!). It supports resolution up to 1152 x 864 with a
refresh rate of 60Hz, 1024 x 768 at 75Hz etc, in both PAL
and NTSC systems.
There is a VGA HD DB15M input connector and the
following output connectors: VGA HD DB15F, Composite
RCA, S-Video and RGB (for SCART).
VGA MF, RCA MM and S-Video MM cables are included
as is an IR remote control.
SECAM is also
supported on the Contact:
RGB output. Rec- Microgram Computers
ommended retail 1/14 Bon Mace Cl, Berkeley Vale 2261
price is $349.00 Tel: (02) 4389 8444 Fax: (02) 4389 8388
(Cat No. 3102-13) Website: www.microgram.com.au
This valuable
WebLINK
Space for Rent!
JED designs and manufactures a range of
single board computers (based on Wilke Tiger
and Atmel AVR), as well as LCD displays and
analog and digital I/O for PCs and controllers.
JED also makes a PC PROM programmer and
RS232/RS485 converters.
Jed Microprocessors Pty Ltd
Tel: (03) 9762 3588 Fax: (03) 9762 5499
WebLINK: jedmicro.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
A 100% Australian owned company supplying
frequency control products to the highest
international standards: filters, DIL’s, voltage,
temperature compensated and oven controlled
oscillators, monolithic and discrete filters and
ceramic filters and resonators.
Hy-Q International Pty Ltd
Tel:(03) 9562-8222 Fax: (03) 9562 9009
WebLINK: www.hy-q.com.au
We specialise in providing a range of Low
Power Radio solutions for OEM’s to incorporate in their wireless technology based
products. The innovative range includes
products from MK Consultants, the worldrenowned specialist manufacturer.
TeleLink Communications
Tel:(07) 4934 0413 Fax: (07) 4934 0311
WebLINK: telelink.com.au
Want to be NOTICED? Without
costing you a fortune?
To reserve your place in
SILICON CHIP WebLINK,
email
BENEDICTUS SMITH
Pty Ltd
info<at>benedictus-smith.com
December
2004 63
MM
arch 2005
63
arch 2005 63
Virtually all the parts for the Inductance
& Q-Factor Meter are mounted on a
single PC board, so building it is easy.
Here’s how to assemble it, check it out
and use it to make inductance and
Q-factor measurements.
Inductance
& Q-Factor
Meter
Pt.2: By LEONID LERNER
B
UILDING THE INDUCTANCE &
Q-Factor Meter is quite straightforward. Fig.9 shows the parts layout
on the single PC board.
Begin by installing the wire links.
All of the links except one can be
formed from 0.7mm tinned copper
wire or similar. The link situated to
the right of Q1 must be fashioned from
light-gauge insulated wire instead.
Follow up with the resistors and
then continue with all remaining components in order of height. Note that
the high-profile components must be
mounted as far down on the PC board
surface as possible, so as not to inter64 Silicon Chip
fere with the keypad and LCD when
they are installed in the case later.
In fact, the tip of REG3’s metal tab
had to be removed on the prototype,
to clear the rear of the keypad. This
can be done using a hacksaw (with
the device held in plastic vice jaws)
and then carefully filing the job to a
smooth finish . Alternatively, you may
be able to bend the regulator to achieve
sufficient clearance.
When installing the IC sockets, be
sure to align the notched (pin 1) ends
as indicated in the overlay diagram.
Also, check that you have the banded
(cathode) ends of the diodes (D1-D8)
and the positive leads of the four polarised capacitors around the right way.
The keypad and LCD are connected
via lengths of 7-way and a 10-way
ribbon cable respectively. On the prototype, an 8-way header is used at the
keypad end, while two 6-way headers
are soldered to the first six and last six
contacts of the LCD module.
We’ve not included these headers in
the parts list because there are several
ways the keypad and LCD ends of the
cable can be terminated, as well as
several types of LCD modules with
varying pinouts. You could even solder the ribbon cables directly to the PC
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.9: follow this diagram when assembling your meter. In particular, make sure that all the
high-profile components are seated as close to the board as possible.
boards, leaving out the connectors.
Trial fit the assembly in the enclosure first to gauge the required
ribbon cable lengths. Wire up in
accordance with the circuit diagram
(Fig.5), noting that the pins of the LCD
and keypad will not be in the same
order as the wires on the ribbon cable.
Finally, in preparation for testing,
temporarily fit the three binding posts
directly to the PC board in the large
holes marked “A”, “B” and “E” on the
overlay. The posts must be removed
after testing and installed in the top
of the case as described later.
Basic checks & programming
The unit requires a 7.5-9V DC,
200mA power supply. Care needs to be
taken here as some 9V DC plugpacks
supply much higher voltages when
lightly loaded. This extra voltage
translates to power dissipation in the
7805 regulator, which may cause it
to overheat and shut down. If you’re
using an unregulated plugpack with
selectable output voltages, you may
find that the “6V” or “7.5V” setting
is sufficient.
As the first step, apply power and
check that the +5V and -5V supplies
are present on pins 7 and 4 of the
AD8055 (IC4) respectively. Also,
check for -1.8V on pin 2. Next, adjust
siliconchip.com.au
This view shows the fully assembled prototype PC board. Note that the final
version shown in Fig.9 differs slightly from this unit.
March 2005 65
the data entry screen should appear
on the LCD. To make measurements
using an external tank capacitor, first
remove the link between the “A” and
“B” terminals if installed earlier. Next,
connect a capacitor of a few nF in
parallel with an inductor of a few mH
between the “A” and “E” terminals.
You can now enter the capacitance
value. For example, if you’ve chosen
an 8.2nF capacitor, press “8” and
then “2”. The display will show “8.2”
followed by “100pF”, which is the
default multiplier. Pressing any key
except “*” has the effect of rotating the
choice between the 100pF, 1nF, 10nF,
and 100nF multipliers. As we’re using
an 8.2nF capacitor in this example,
press any key once to select the 1nF
multiplier.
Press “*” once you’re satisfied with
the two parameters. If you make a
mistake, pressing “*” at any stage
lets you enter a choice or abort a
measurement. The display should
now show the inductance, Q factor
and test frequency.
To make measurements using the
internal capacitor bank, insert a link
between the “A” and “B” terminals.
Repeat the procedure above but note
that only choices of 1.0 x (1nF or 10nF
or 100nF) make sense here since only
these values are present internally.
Q readings with the internal capacitor bank suffer due to the 0.5W (approx.) dynamic series resistance of the
transistors, which do the bank switching. This mode is to be used if you’re
not interested in the Q and just want
to make inductance measurements.
After the range is chosen, the micro
starts sampling at the maximum rate.
The first few acquisitions are used to
optimise the sampling rate and set a
sampling delay if required. The latter occurs when the ringing saturates
ABOVE: the LCD is glued in place behind the display window and is connected
to the PC board via ribbon cable – see text. Note that the diode shown connected
to the DC socket here is on the PC board in the final version (D9 in Fig.9).
the potentiometer (VR1) for optimum
contrast on the LCD screen. All you’ll
probably see at this point are faint grey
blocks of pixels, as the micro is yet
to be programmed; simply adjust the
pot to get the darkest possible pixels.
An ISP programmer can now be
connected and the program files LQMeter128.HEX and LQMeter128.EEP
Table 1: Capacitor Codes
Value
100nF
82nF
8.2nF
4.7nF
1nF
820pF
680pF
μF Code
0.1µF
.082µF
.0082µF
.0047µF
.001µF
NA
NA
EIA Code
104
823
822
472
102
820
680
IEC Code
100n
82n
8n2
4n7
1n
820p
680p
loaded into the Flash and EEPROM
memories, respectively. These files
are available from the SILICON CHIP
web site in a file named “LQMeter.
ZIP”. If you don’t already have a suitable programmer, then check out the
“AVR ISP Serial Programmer” project
described in October 2002. Kits for the
programmer are available from Jaycar
Electronics (Cat. KC-5340).
The microcontroller program occupies most of the available memory
space. It is quite complicated but
should you have the inclination, you
can follow its operation in detail in the
documented source code included in
the download. You can get a top-level
understanding of program operation
from the flow chart in Fig.10.
Operation
Power up and assuming all is well,
Table 2: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
No.
1
10
2
3
1
9
1
1
2
66 Silicon Chip
Value
10kW
4.7kW
1.2kW
1kW
120W
100W
82W
56W
47W
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black orange brown
yellow violet red brown
brown red red brown
brown black red brown
brown red brown brown
brown black brown brown
grey red black brown
green blue black brown
yellow violet black brown
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black red brown
yellow violet black brown brown
brown red black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
brown red black black brown
brown black black black brown
grey red black gold brown
green blue black gold brown
yellow violet black gold brown
siliconchip.com.au
This close-up view shows how the
three 10mm tapped spacers are
fitted to the binding posts (after first
snipping off the non-threaded tips).
The PC board is secured to these
spacers using M3 x 6mm screws and
star washers (see text).
the input amplifier in the immediate
aftermath of the pulse.
After a valid sample is acquired the
micro performs an FFT and the centre
frequency is estimated. During a period of eight cycles, centre frequency
and bandwidth measurements are performed and the average taken. Finally,
the inductance, Q factor and centre frequency are calculated and displayed
on the LCD. A complete acquisition,
averaging and display period takes
about 0.1s for the 10MHz micro.
You may find that the large binding
posts are useless when testing physically small inductors. This is easily
addressed by making up two short test
leads to plug into the binding posts.
Each lead consists of an uninsulated
crocodile clip soldered to a 4mm banana plug via a very short length of
large diameter single-strand copper
wire or similar.
Housing
The completed meter will fit neatly
into a console-style instrument case.
This should be done after it has been
tested and found to be operating corsiliconchip.com.au
Fig.10: this diagram gives a very basic idea of how the microcontroller
program works. For specific details, check out the fully documented
source code, which is available for download from the SILICON CHIP
website.
rectly, as the keypad and LCD are
glued in place and will be difficult to
remove later.
An opening for the keypad must be
cut out and holes for the DC socket
and binding posts should be drilled
as shown in the various photographs.
Note that the binding post holes must
be positioned accurately otherwise it
will be impossible to assemble the unit
later. This can be achieved by using the
PC board as a template when marking
out the holes.
To give the finished unit a professional appearance, a faceplate can be
cut from thin aluminium sheeting and
fitted around the keypad. The easiest
way to achieve this is to lightly mark
out the contour of the keypad on the
aluminium sheet using a scribe or
needle and then drill four 8.5mm holes
at the corners.
Next, use a straight edge and Stanley knife to score the sheet front and
back, joining the four holes at their
perimeters. Cut away the centre of
the piece to be removed, then place
the sheet in a vice and bend along the
scored marks.
Work the metal back and forth at
March 2005 67
Another view inside the completed prototype. The keypad and LCD are secured to the case using epoxy adhesive.
Fig.11: check your
PC board against
this full-size
etching pattern
before installing
any of the parts.
68 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
the bend and it will break off, leaving
a clean edge.
The LCD, keypad and faceplate
can then be glued to the case using
two-part epoxy adhesive. To achieve
a good bond to this plastic, the mating
surfaces should first be sanded to a
rough finish. Make sure that the LCD
is centred left to right when you glue
it, otherwise some of the characters
will not be visible.
Note that even when centred, the
entire display width is not visible
through the case cutout. This is not
a problem, as the program uses only
12 of the available 16 character positions.
Binding posts
The binding posts are first attached
to the case using the supplied nuts
and spring washers. Next, snip off
the very tip of the binding posts,
leaving just the threaded portion. The
non-threaded part is not needed and
would otherwise obstruct the PC board
mounting screws.
Now remove the two small M3 nuts
and replace them with M3 x 10mm
tapped metal spacers, tightening
firmly. The PC board can then be held
in place by attaching it to the three
spacers using M3 x 6mm screws and
star washers. Note that the screws
and washers must also make good
electrical contact with the copper on
the PC board.
If there is a problem attaching the
PC board to the spacers on the binding
posts, check for interference between
the components and the rear of the
keypad. Some minor component repositioning may be necessary to fix
this problem.
Final word
In addition to L and Q measurements, some interesting physical phenomena can be investigated with this
meter. First, wind a small choke with
a few turns of enamelled copper wire
around a Philips screwdriver and
check its inductance and Q factor with
the meter.
Next, insert a small HF ferrite bead
into the coil and observe that the
inductance and Q factor increases,
as expected. Now replace the bead
with the blade of the screwdriver and
observe that the inductance hardly
changes and may even decrease, while
the Q drops markedly.
Ordinary iron is not a useful core
siliconchip.com.au
Par t s Lis t – Inductance & Q-Factor Meter
1 PC board, code 04102051,
139.7mm x 86.4mm
1 150mH miniature ferrite choke
(L1) (Farnell 432-090)
1 black 4mm binding post (Jaycar
PT 0454)
1 blue 4mm binding post (Jaycar
PT 0450)
1 green 4mm binding post (Jaycar
PT 0455)
1 6-way 2.54mm pitch header
(for ISP connection) (Jaycar
HM-3416)
1 2.1mm or 2.5mm panel-mount
DC socket
1 20-pin IC socket
1 16-pin IC socket
2 14-pin IC sockets
2 8-pin IC sockets
1 16-character x 2-line LCD
module (DSE Z 4170 or
equivalent)
1 numeric keypad (DSE P 7810)
1 console style plastic case, 150
x 95 x 28.5/49.5mm (Jaycar
HB-6090)
1 ribbon cable (see text)
1 miniature 10kW trimpot (VR1)
3 M3 x 10mm tapped metal
spacers
3 M3 x 6mm screws & star
washers
Semiconductors
1 AT90S2313-10 microcontroller
(IC5), programmed with LQMeter128.HEX & LQ-Meter128.
EEP
1 74HC00 quad NAND gate (IC1)
1 74HC390 dual decade counter
(IC2)
1 74HC4066 quad analog switch
(IC3)
1 AD8055AN high-speed op
amp (IC4) (Farnell 283-976)
1 MAX635ACPA switching regulator (IC6) (Futurlec or RS
655-442)
2 2N4250 or PN4250 PNP transistors (Q1, Q2) (Wiltronics)
6 2N2222A or PN2222A NPN
transistors (Q3-Q8)
1 40MHz crystal oscillator module (OSC1) (Farnell 571-830)
1 LM334Z adjustable current
source (REG1)
1 7805 +5V regulator (REG2)
1 LM337 adjustable negative
voltage regulator (REG3)
1 1N60 germanium diode (D1)
(DSE Z 3040)
7 1N4148 diodes (D2-D7)
1 1N4004 diode (D8)
Capacitors
2 470mF 16V PC electrolytic
1 220mF 10V PC electrolytic
1 47mF 6.3V tag tantalum
11 100nF 50V monolithic
2 82nF 50V MKT polyester
1 4.7nF 50V MKT polyester
1 1nF 50V MKT polyester
1 820pF 50V ceramic disc
1 680pF 50V ceramic disc
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
1 10kW
8 100W
10 4.7kW
1 82W
2 1.2kW
1 56W
3 1kW
2 47W
1 120W
1 130W
Note 1: parts shown with catalog numbers can be obtained from the indicated
distributor(s). Contact details for all distributors mentioned are as follows:
(1) Dick Smith Electronics (DSE): www.dse.com.au
(2) Farnell InOne (1300 361 005): www.farnellinone.com.au
(3) Futurlec: www.futurlec.com
(4) Jaycar Electronics: www.jaycar.com.au
(5) RS Components (RS) (1300 656 636): www.rsaustralia.com
(6) Wiltronics Research (1800 067 674): www.wiltronics.com.au
Note 2: the 40MHz crystal oscillator module could also be obtained from an
old 386/486 PC motherboard.
material at RF. This is because its
magnetic domains cannot keep pace
with the fast changing RF field. Rather
they vibrate ineffectively and generate
heat, introducing nothing but losses
SC
into the tuned circuit.
March 2005 69
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions from
readers are welcome and will be paid for at standard rates.
Headlight
reminder
With the storm season recently
upon us, it’s not uncommon to
switch car headlights on during the
daytime. Unfortunately, it’s easy to
forget to turn them off again when
parking, with the result being a
flat battery. This circuit will sound
an alarm if the ignition switch is
moved to the “off” position while
the car lights are on, reminding you
to turn the lights off before leaving
the vehicle.
The circuit is simple but effective.
A 555 timer (IC1) is configured as
a free-running oscillator to drive a
small piezo transducer. The pitch
of the transducer is set by the resistor and capacitor connected to
pins 2 & 6.
Power for the 555 is derived
from the dashboard lighting circuit.
However, the piezo does not sound
during normal operation, because
the 555’s reset input (pin 4) is held
low by transistor Q1. This transistor
is switched on whenever accessory
power is present, pulling its collector towards ground (0V).
If the ignition is switched off but
the lighting circuit remains powered, the loss of accessory power
results in Q1 switching off and
releasing the reset signal to IC1,
sounding the alarm.
A 220W resistor in series with
the piezo protects the 555’s output
(pin 3). Although most piezo elements have relatively high impedance, this drops as the frequency
increases due to their capacitive
nature. The square-wave output
on pin 3 includes many harmonics, some extending well into the
ultrasonic range.
The unit fits easily into a small
plastic box. I spliced mine into the
wiring running to the cigarette lighter, which includes both accessories
and panel lamp circuits as well as a
chassis ground wire. The result fits
neatly behind the ashtray, with no
chassis bashing required!
Bruce Colledge,
Ferny Hills, Qld. ($30)
data cable terminated with D-9
connectors is to be tested. Connect
0V to pin 5, +9V to pin 1, and four
resistors in between. Plug in a 9V
battery and then probe the connector at the other end of the cable with
a multimeter as indicated. Broken,
shorted or incorrect connections
are all quickly evident using this
method.
Grant Walker,
Lutana, Tas. ($25)
El Cheapo
cable tester
Many cable testers have been
published before, some quite complex, but here’s a cheap and simple
alternative. It uses only a 9V battery,
two mating connectors and a few
resistors, as well as a multimeter
for voltage measurements.
Begin by soldering the leads of
a 9V battery clip between the two
pins furthest apart on one of the test
connectors and then add a ladder of
resistors between them for each of
the other required pins. Any junkbox resistors will do but values
between 1kW and 50kW are best.
In the example shown, a five-core
70 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Aviation intercom
Before its move offshore, I was
lucky enough to be involved in developing the avionics system for the
Flightship Ground Effect FS8 craft
(see www.pacificseaflight.com/
craft.shtml). Although officially
classed as a boat, it has wings and
can travel at 180km/h some three
metres above the water.
The communications system was
adapted from an aircraft unit and
was a particular problem. It was
expected to allow speech between
the two pilots and radio, as well as
receive audible warnings from the
onboard computers and feed sound
to the onboard data logger.
Initially, the system was very
noisy due to ground loops and incompatibility problems. A circuit
similar to that shown here was the
solution. Although optimised to
suit Softcom brand headphones
with active noise reduction, it
should be suitable for most aviation sets.
The plugs indicated are standard
aviation types but are insulated
from the instrument panel to eliminate earth loops.
The inputs from the two pilots'
microphones are summed and
amplified by transistors Q1 & Q2.
When one pilot presses his or her
transmit key (mounted on the yoke),
the transmit relay (RLY1) closes,
muting the other pilot’s microphone
via the optocoupler (OPTO1).
The outputs from the microphone preamp, computer audio
transformer (T1) and radio speaker
transformer (T2) are summed via
10kW resistors and applied to the
input of IC1, an LM386 audio amplifier. Note that transformers are used
here to avoid creating additional
earth loops.
The output of the LM386 drives
the pilots’ headphones via transformers T3 & T4, which are needed
for impedance matching.
Each audio source has its own
level control (VR1, VR3 & VR4).
The main volume control (VR5) is
included to allow for ambient noise
level. VR2 is used to set the signal
level for the data logger.
Gary Smith,
Montrose, Tas.
siliconchip.com.au
Gary S
is this m mith
o
winner nth’s
o
Peak At f the
las LCR
Meter
March 2005 71
Circuit Notebook – Continued
Touch lamp remote
A bedside table touch lamp can be awkward to reach in
the dark. However, its very easy to position one or more
additional “touch pads” wherever you desire, using just
a length of insulated wire and any suitable metal object.
How? Well, simply strip both ends of a length of insulated wire, attaching one end to the touch surface
of the lamp and the other end to a conductive surface.
That’s it!
The touch pad can be almost any conductive surface
that is not earthed and is safe to touch. You could even
use a metal bed head but this is not recommended – I
found the lamp kept being switched on by accidental
touches to the bed head. I’ve used a small metal costume
jewellery broach but you could even use a thumbtack.
Caution: don’t push the wire inside the lamp, as
contact with the internal 240VAC wiring may prove
fatal!
Andrew Hicks,
Harris Park, NSW. ($20)
Simple under-voltage cut-out
Sensitive low-current relay coils often operate at much
lower voltages than their typical ratings. This can be undesirable in some applications, where low supply voltages
can result in erratic system behaviour.
In some instances, this problem could be overcome simply
by inserting an appropriate value zener diode in series with
the relay coil. This reduces the voltage seen by the relay
coil, so causing it to drop out earlier.
If desired, a LED could be included when a spare set of
“normally closed” contacts are available to indicate relay
dropout.
Jay Williams,
Baldivis, WA. ($20)
Reverse polarity
protector
A series diode is often used as a
means of protecting equipment from
accidental power supply reversal,
particularly in battery-powered
equipment. Due to forward voltage
losses, this is sometimes impractical.
One solution is to use an enhancement mode P-channel power
Mosfet (Q1) in series with the positive supply rail. A device with low
drain-source “on” resistance can be
selected to minimise voltage losses,
which in turn extends battery life
72 Silicon Chip
and reduces heat dissipation.
Zener diode ZD1 must be
included to protect against
excessive gate-source voltage, while a 100kW resistor
limits zener fault current.
A second 100kW resistor
across the output ensures
that the gate doesn’t float
when the input is disconnected. A series fuse and bidirectional
transient voltage suppressor (TVS1)
could be included to provide overvoltage protection, if desired.
If common input & output grounds
are unimportant, then a version of
this circuit employing an N-channel
power Mosfet in series with the
negative (0V) rail could also be
employed.
Bruce Griffiths,
Hamilton, NZ. ($25)
siliconchip.com.au
PICAXE freezer
thermostat
We have a portable 12V 18-litre
freezer that’s had a chequered career
as the boat’s freezer. Its innards were
replaced about 18 months ago but
then the thermostat failed in the
“on” position.
Being part Scottish, I was loath
to throw it away. I was sure I could
get a PICAXE-08 to make it work
so I bought a thermistor from DSE
and proceeded to experiment.
The circuit shown was constructed
and the trimpot (VR1) initially set
to about 100kW. The freezer was
then switched on and the voltage at
pin 6 of the PICAXE was recorded
at 5-minute intervals, along with
the values from the readadc command.
After the freezer reached about
-14°C, power was switched off and
more readings were taken to determine the warm-up rate. From this
data and after some experimentation, I decided to run the compressor for five minutes if the temperature was above a certain threshold
or three minutes if below.
Once the temperature reached
a lower limit, it would stay off for
five minutes. This method adds hysteresis into the system, preventing
rapid on-off cycling. It also helps
' Thermostat for Waeco 18-litre freezer
symbol LED = 0
symbol relay = 4
symbol voltage = b1
symbol on_time = b2
symbol off_time = b3
symbol minute = b4
start:
high LED
wait 2
low LED
wait 2
'show program is running
main:
readadc 1, voltage 'read from thermistor
debug voltage
if voltage <= 43 then relay_off
if voltage > 43 and voltage <=64 then relay_on2
if voltage > 64 then relay_on1
goto main
relay_on1:
high relay
siliconchip.com.au
on_time = 5
for minute = 1 to on_time
high LED
wait 60
next minute
goto main
to minimise current drain on the
batteries.
As a result, the unit runs to about
-11°C and with the 5-minute off
period, it comes back to about -5°C
or -6°C; enough to make ice cubes
for the Scotch. More importantly, it
should also keep any frozen meat in
good condition for our trips!
The freezer will eventually get
down to -21°C if allowed to run
continuously but with the law of
diminishing returns, it takes far
more energy to get down that far
and of course, it warms up more
quickly.
Paul Rodenhuis,
Port Bundaberg, Qld. ($40)
CONTRIBUTE
AND WIN!
relay_on2:
high relay
on_time = 3
for minute = 1 to on_time
high LED
wait 60
next minute
goto main
relay_off:
low relay
low LED
off_time = 5
for minute = 1 to off_time
wait 60
next minute
goto main
As you can see, we pay good money for
each of the “Circuit Notebook” contributions published in SILICON CHIP. But
now there’s an even better reason to send
in your circuit idea: each month, the best
contribution published will win a superb
Peak Atlas LCR Meter valued at $195.00.
So don’t keep that brilliant circuit secret
any more: send it to
ILICON
CHIP and you
MS
arch
2005 73
could be a winner!
A SHIELDED
ANTENNA FO
RECEPTION
This new tuned and shielded loop antenna can dramatically
improve AM reception and is ideal for use when camping,
caravanning or when you’re in remote areas where signals are
very weak. It will help you chase far-away stations when closer
ones are on the same frequency. It can also help where there is a
lot of electrical interference.
T
he loop antenna goes back to
the early days of radio when
every ounce of signal you could
get was needed. Long wire antennas
picked up more signal but they also
picked up all the static and other
interference, often resulting in bad
reception.
The loop antenna improved the situation in being both tuneable and directional, thus maximising the wanted
signal and minimising the unwanted
signals and noise.
The end result was a greatly improved signal-to-noise ratio and the
possibility of digging almost unreadable signals out of the noise.
A loop antenna of reasonable size
will pick up far more signal than
the more modern ferrite rod antenna
which was introduced mainly because
it was smaller and fitted in with re74 Silicon Chip
ceiver miniaturisation.
This new loop antenna, called
the Techniloop MS1, supersedes the
model PX1 which was described in
the June 1989 issue of SILICON CHIP.
The new model has contemporary
styling plus the addition of shielding
(Faraday shield) to further reduce
noise and give a deeper directional
null of interfering signals.
The loops used in early radio typically took the form of a square timber
or Bakelite frame wound with many
turns of insulated wire to form a large
coil which was tuned with an airspaced tuning capacitor.
This worked well but was cumbersome and not too pretty (except
perhaps to today’s collectors who
often pay big prices for these vintage
items).
The Techniloop MS1 is much better
looking and uses modern IDC ribbon
cable and connectors mounted on a PC
board to produce a highly repeatable
loop coil of consistent performance.
Tuning is by means of a speciallysourced 500pF variable capacitor
and the whole of the circuitry is enclosed in an aluminium (therefore
non-magnetic) shield, arranged so as
not to form a shorted turn around the
circumference of the loop coil.
The diagram of Fig.1 shows the
circuit of the Techniloop MS1, while
Fig.2 is a more graphical depiction
showing how the strands of the ribbon
cable are connected to form the loop.
The effect of shielding the loop is to
cause the loop to respond only to the
magnetic field component of the radio
signal and not to the electric field.
This enables virtually complete
canceling of a signal when the loop
siliconchip.com.au
LOOP
OR DX AM
By David Whitby
siliconchip.com.au
March 2005 75
500pF
500pF
SHIELDED TUNED
LOOP ANTENNA
Fig.1 (above): the circuit of the tuned antenna
could hardly be simpler: a tapped coil with a
variable capacitor across it. That forms a “tuned
circuit” and at one particular frequency, which
depends on the setting of the tuning capacitor,
the tuned circuit becomes resonant.
Fig.2 (right): a more stylized view of the circuit
showing how the individual wires of the
ribbon cable are connected together to form a
continuous coil (or, more correctly, two coils).
R,T & S stands for the plug ring, tip and shield.
is at 90° to the station direction and
often makes it possible to separate
stations that are on the same or close
to the same frequency but in different
directions.
Shielding the loop antenna also
helps to improve the signal-to-noise
ratio.
Historically, shielded loops were
(and still are) used on shipboard and
aircraft radio direction finding equipment, mainly to provide deep nulls
for accurate direction-finding and
particularly in the case of aircraft,
to eliminate what is known as” rain
noise”. (Rain hitting an unshielded
loop at high speed causes electrostatically-generated noise).
Improves AM reception
The Techniloop MS1 can dramatically improve AM radio reception over
long distances both on receivers that
have inbuilt ferrite rods or small loops
and those that have external antenna
connections. It will have particular
appeal to country listeners, travellers/
caravaners, DX enthusiasts and flat
dwellers and others in locations where
AM reception is poor.
Interstate reception at night is
greatly enhanced. Even during the
daytime, in Melbourne for example,
many Tasmanian stations have been
received strongly when without the
loop they were just above the noise
and even Sydney stations have been
received in the late afternoon.
A common application is with retirees or others who have moved a long
way from their home town and found
to their dismay that they can no longer
An alternative arrangement, allowed for in the
design, is for direct (ie, wired) connection where
the radio receiver has external antenna and
earth terminal(s). This allows the loop antenna
to be remotely mounted in a better position for
RF pickup (on a caravan roof, perhaps?).
76 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Putting it together . . . step-by-step
1) Mount the seven tapped hexagonal spacers to the inside of the diecast
case lid, using the 3mm countersunk
screws supplied. Try to get the flats of
the spacers parallel with the long sides
of the lid, to allow maximum room for
the loop frame to fit between the two
rows of spacers.
2) Remove the protective paper
backing from the supplied black adhesive foam rectangle and place it,
adhesive side down, into the bottom
of the housing lid, between the two
rows of spacers.
3) Using the thin tinned copper wire
supplied, make two long links on the
non-track side of the PC board. Pull
the wire tight and solder it to the PC
board pads and trim. These wires
form contacts to ensure that one end
of the loop shield frame is firmly connected to the diecast case and to the
PC board. The silver-coloured tape at
the other end of the frame provides
insulation to prevent the frame from
becoming a shorted turn around the
loop coil.
siliconchip.com.au
4) Solder the tuning capacitor and
the output jack socket to the PC board,
using the hookup wire supplied.
5) Take the pre-assembled loop element and the PC board and carefully
insert the IDC connector pins into the
board as shown in the photographs (silver coloured tape end of loop to MS1 end
of PC board. The track side of the PC
board should be facing inside the loop).
Do not remove the tape holding the loop
element closed until the IDC connector
pins are pushed fully into and soldered
to the PC board, otherwise movement
of the mitered corners of the loop shield
may cause it to break.
Before proceeding to the next step,
check your soldering carefully – both
visually, using a magnifying glass if
possible, and electrically, using your
multimeter switched to the Ohms range.
Ensure that all pins of the IDC connectors have been correctly soldered to the
PC board. Also check that no solder
splashes are shorting out the closely
spaced PC pads.
There should be a couple of Ohms
or so between adjacent pads. If less
than this (especially zero!) the chances
are you have a solder bridge shorting
out pads. If more than this (especially
infinity!), you have either a non-soldered
pin or a dry joint.
Correct any problems before moving on.
6) Gently lower the loop element/PC
board assembly down onto the housing
base between the spacers and onto
the black foam pad. Line up the board
mounting holes with the spacers and
fasten with the 3mm screws supplied.
7) Fit the tuning capacitor and output socket to the case and tighten the
screws. Gently lower the case/loop
assembly down onto the lid (base) and
fasten from underneath with the countersunk self-tapping screws supplied.
Tightening these screws ensures
the electrical connection between the
two wire links on the PC board and
the scraped section of the aluminium
frame.
8) The protective felt pads should
be fitted under the base after testing.
March 2005 77
hear their old favourite station. In
many cases, the Techniloop MS1 can
solve the problem. Another situation
common today is people moving into
high-rise apartments and finding that
AM reception is almost non-existent.
Again, the Techniloop can usually
solve the problem.
Finally, if you wish to receive
stations in the Australian AM Extended Band, in the range 1611kHz
to 1701kHz, you need the Techniloop
MS1. It is designed to tune over this
range, as well as the normal AM band,
so that you can more easily receive
these low power stations. By the way,
if you want the full list of stations in
the Extended AM band, check them
out at http://www.ardxc.fl.net.au/
stationlists/
Operating the Techniloop is simple.
First, you tune in the station on your
radio and align it for best signal pickup
even if it is only faintly audible. You
then bring the Techniloop close to the
radio or if it is a portable, sit the radio
right inside the loop as shown in the
photographs.
Then carefully tune the knob on
the Techniloop to get the strongest
signal.
When you get the maximum pickup
you will find that the tuning is very
sharp. The increase in signal is magic!
For radios with external antenna connections, a cable is supplied for direct
connection to the set and sometimes
this will give even better results.
If we have made out that the Techniloop is a universal panacea for AM
reception problems, that’s because it
virtually is. Sure, it won’t give you
Sydney radio stations in the Antarctic
but it really does turn poor reception
into good reception.
We are very enthusiastic about it.
The original Techniloop PX1 used
a 300mm circular loop of 16 turns
while the new MS1 model uses a
210mm square loop of 20 turns. In
side-by-side comparison tests, the
output from both loops was found to be
virtually identical but the smaller size
and sleek styling of the MS1 is much
preferred, especially in the domestic
environment.
The Techniloop MS1 is available as
a kit or fully built.
Building the kit
Building the kit is pretty straightforward because a lot of the really tricky
work has already been done.
78 Silicon Chip
Parts List –
Shielded Loop Antenna
1 pre assembled loop element with
fitted IDC connectors
1 diecast housing – drilled and
powder coated
1 PC board
1 tuning capacitor & knob
1 3.5mm stereo jack socket
1 3.5mm stereo plug
1.5m figure-8 cable
Hardware kit – bolts, nuts, spacers,
felt pads & black foam rectangle
Hookup & tinned copper wire
Solder
The Techniloop MS1 is available as
a kit or fully built from:
Gless Audio,
26 Park Street, Seaford, Vic 3198.
Phone/fax: (03) 9776 8703;
Mobile: 0403 055 374
Email: glesstron<at>msn.com
Price for the kit is $110.00 plus
$10.00 packing & postage*.
Price for the fully built and tested
version is $139.00 plus $10.00
packing & postage*.
*Within Australia and New Zealand.
The loop frame itself is already
assembled. It consists of a folded
square of powder-coat enamel finished
aluminium extrusion which has been
mitre-cut and has the ribbon cable already inserted and fitted with two IDC
connectors. As supplied, it is taped up
to hold its square shape.
Don’t, whatever you do, unfold it
because the corner hinge sections
could easily break if they are flexed
back and forth.
The diecast aluminium case also
is supplied drilled, machined and
finished in powder-coat enamel to
match the loop. All you need to do is
to assemble the parts together and do
the soldering. We suggest you follow
the procedure shown in the separate
panel.
Testing & operation
The most important testing is part
of the assembly process: ensuring
that you haven’t missed any solder
connections to the coil nor shorted
any adjacent pads out when soldering the coil.
Be warned: the pads are very close
together and you will need a fine
soldering iron, a steady hand and
(preferably) a strong magnifying glass
and light to work under.
Once checked and assembled according to the step-by-step instructions overleaf, it’s time to turn it on
and see if it works.
Hey, just kidding: there’s no switch
to turn on because there’s no power!
That’s why it’s called a “passive”
antenna.
It’s easiest to check without connecting the antenna to a radio. Simply
place the radio on the metal box at
right angles to the coil.
Tune a radio station towards the
bottom of the band – a distant one if
you can find one. Rotate the antenna
tuning knob and at one particular point
you should find a significant increase
in output from the transistor radio.
Leaving the knob in this position,
rotate the entire antenna/radio until
you find maximum performance. Just
as a point of interest, your transistor
radio should now be end-on to the
radio station – so you know its direction one way or the other!
Repeat this for a station at the top
end of the band. The peak will obviously be in a different position on the
tuning capacitor but it should nevertheless be there.
Directly connecting a radio
For most people, using the antenna
as described above will be more than
satisfactory. But if you want to experiment with really pulling in those longdistance stations or separating adjacent
ones, you may want to try connecting
the antenna to your radio electrically.
Or for instance, you may have
a metal caravan which effectively
blocks radio signals – placing the loop
antenna outside might be the only
practical approach.
Note that this can only be done if
your radio has an antenna and earth
connection – you could try wrapping
a piece of bare wire around the whip
antenna but the results are seldom
anywhere near as good.
In fact, you might find the results
are disappointing anyway – it has a
lot to do with the impedance of the
antenna circuit of the radio and yours
might not be a good match.
If you want to try this, simply connect a suitable plug (or plugs, depending on the radio connections) to the
loop antenna socket and plug in. SC
siliconchip.com.au
LASERS
**WARNING: Only qualified persons should use these components
as the dangers of high voltage and high intensity laser energy both
apply!!! Death and blindness are both potential dangers if used and
handled or installed incorrectly.
LS1 (NEW) 40mW+ GREEN LASER
HEADS: These heads are supplied with a small
matching switched mode power supply module:
PCB assembly only. The power supply module is
powered from 240Vac, 90-240V / 50-60Hz input.
Dimensions: laser 34 x 34 x 80mm; 240vAC
power supply module 95 x 52mm. Weight: 220g.
$270
LS2 (NEW) 40mW+ RED LASER HEADS:
Supplied with a small switched mode power
supply (mains wiring required). Input voltage: 100240VAC / 50-60Hz. Output 5VDC / 500mA.
Wavelength 635nm - 650nm. Dimensions: 21mm
(DIA) x 56mm (L).** $200
LS3 (NEW)BLUE laser diode 20mW: $1300
FLY1
LS2
LASER
LS1
FLY1 (NEW) laser light show:
LDS1 (NEW) 2 colour laser light show:
This professional quality light show features: Solid
Uses 2 lasers, red and green...$640
state laser diode, and emits a powerful 30mW at a
LDS2 (NEW) 3 colour laser light show:
wavelength of 532nm, emerald green(DPSS). It is
Uses 2 lasers and mixes the 2 for the third housed in a quality built housing with mounting
colour...$700
bracket Cooling: air cooling, Power supply:
240Vac (Some 240VAC mains wiring may be
required), Output: 30mW, Control: sound / autoplay, dimensions: 340 X 116 X 119mm, Weight:
3.5Kg. ..$380
POWERFUL DC MOTORS / GENERATORS:
SC250G (NEW) 250W DC GEARED MOTOR:
200W & 100W motors as used in our scooters.
4 brush, 4 magnet, 16 pole. 11 tooth
sprocket to suit a chain pitch around
7mm. Double ball bearing for long
life. Mounting bracket with 4 treaded
holes 6mm X 1mm (M6) 100mm Dia.
x 80mm L (+ shaft) Shaft: 27mm x
8mm (8mm x 1.25mm. (M8) 2kg.
200W 24VDC, 11.0A, 2750 RPM, $30 (SC200)
300W 24VDC, 16.4A, 2650 RPM, $36 (SC300)
CFL1 (NEW) 10W COMPACT FLUORESCENT LAMP:
Crompton brand, pn 17347. In original packaging. 220240 Volts, 10 Watts, Edison screw base, 5000°K (white),
Up to 6000 hrs, Double PLC. Dim. 44mm x 137mm.
1x 10W LAMP: (CFL1) $3
6x 10W LAMP: (CFL1PK) $12.50
Special!!! One CFL Inverter Kit + 4 CFL1 for only $30
NEW 250W DC geared motors:
Can be used to drive electric bicycles
etc. Specifications: 250W / 24V, No
load RPM: 400, With Load: RPM 320,
Torque: 7.46, Chain: 12.7, Sprocket:
Z9. These motors would be illegal to
attach to a bicycle in Australia, as the
legal limit is 200W, although the voltage
could be limited to reduce the motors output
to the legal 200W. Measures 110mm Dia. x 115mm L
(+shaft). Shaft 20mm x 8mm. $79
(NEW) 100W DC MOTOR:
$22 (SC100)
See throttles on our website
SPEED CONTROLLERS
TO SUIT FROM $14
PB12 (NEW) 12V / 12AH
GELL CELL BATTERY: $35
(NEW) 240Vac - 12V /
24V CHARGERS:
12VDC:
(SCC12) $17
24VDC:
(SCC24) $17
CRYSTAL LOCKED STEREO FM TRANSMITTER KIT:
Based on a small pre-assembled FM Transmitter module
that uses 1 of 6 different frequencies. Frequencies are
selected by a pushbutton & range from 106.7MHz 107.7MHz. With variable gain it can accept microphone
or line level audio signal levels. Simple to build as the
module only needs to be wired to a larger PCB which has
the audio preamplifier circuitry...Audio response: 20Hz15KHz, Channel separation: 40dB, Total Harmonic
Distortion: 0.1%, Pre Emphasis: 50uS, Supply voltage
range: 3-12VDC, 30mA<at>9V. Includes PCB, transmitter
module, two unidirectional electret microphones and all
on-board components. K222. $29
EW
N
KIT
STEREO FM TRANSMITTER MODULE:
Frequency range: 106.7MHz to
107.7MHz. Specifications:
Audio response: 20Hz15KHz, Channel separation:
40dB, Total Harmonic Distortion:
0.1%, Pre Emphasis: 50uS, DC
supply voltage range: 3-12V, Supply
Current: 30mA <at> 9V. Dimensions: 32mm x 45mm x
16mm. (FMOD1) $22
NEW 400W WIND GENERATOR:
This is a very efficient machine and is designed to run
maintenance free even in marine environments.
Precision injection molded blades. Consistent
aerodynamic outline and mass distribution guarantees
the rotors operate at nearly no noise and minimal
vibration. Very low start-up/cut-in wind speed, high wind
energy coefficient. Designed to prevent blades from
feathering. High quality permanent magnet design.
Winding and axle are designed to reduce start-up torque,
allowing unit to generate at very low wind speeds. High
quality aluminum casted body, ensures efficient cooling
and is aesthetically pleasing. Designed to operate under
severe conditions. Rotor diameter 1.4m, Start up wind
speed 2.4m.s-1, Cut-in wind speed 3.0m.s-1, Rated wind
speed 12.5 m.s-1, Turbine Rated output 400W,AC12V,
Survival wind speed 60 m.s-1 NOTE: There is no mast
included in the kit. (WG2) $1050
Mast kit special:
Our 4.5M 3 section mast comes with steel guy wires,
turnbuckles, ground anchors, nuts and bolts.....all the
hardware you will need. $120. NOTE: If used with our
new 400W Wind Generator you will need to make a
suitable adaptor as the pipe size is not the same.
NOW ON SALE FOR ONLY $599
(NEW) 200W WIND GENERATOR:
These are serious three phase 200W wind generators
with blades spanning 2.2M. They are designed to start
operating in low air speeds (around 11kph) while being
robust enough to withstand strong gales. These
generators are rated at 200W <at> 25kph with a maximum
of 250W, output voltages 12V or 24V. Our optional new
charger will enable you to charge banks of batteries.
Each generator is supplied with mounting plate, three
blades, tailfin, nosecone, heavy duty cable, stainless
steel guy wires, turnbuckles, ground anchors, nuts and
bolts.....all the hardware you will need to build your own
wind generator. Also included is a three phase rectifier
unit with voltage and amperage metering. These wind
generators come in two boxes: Box 1 is 45kg (720 x 440 x
230mm), Box 2 is 27.5kg (1540 x 220 x 110mm). For
more information and instructions see our web site.
HL1 (NEW) 12V / 50W HALOGEN DICHROIC LAMP:
In original packaging. 12 Volts, 50W, 60°
beam, Std MR16 glass face, 3000°K
(colour temp.), 3500 hours (ave. life).
50mm Dia. x 38mm. 1x 50W HALOGEN
DICHROIC LAMP: (HL1) $2.50.... 10x 50W
HALOGEN DICHROIC LAMP: (HL1PK) $16
For more info on these and other
lasers check out our web site.
K K
BP PAC
1
1
K1 AIN
RG
BA
CFL2 (NEW) 17W COMPACT FLUORESCENT LAMP:
Crompton brand, pn 17408. In original packaging. 220240 Volts, 17 Watts, Edison screw base, 5000°K (white),
Up to 6000 hours, Double PLC. Dimensions: 44mm x
165mm. Suitable for use in indoor and outdoor fittings.
1x17W LAMP: (CFL2) $4... 6x17W LAMP: (CFL2PK) $18
CFL3 (NEW) 10W COMPACT FLUORESCENT LAMP:
Crompton brand, pn 17348. In original packaging. 220240 Volts, 10 Watts, Bayonet base, 2700°K (warm white),
Up to 6000 hrs, Double PLC. Dim.: 44mm x 137mm.
1x10W lamp:(CFL3) $3.50...6x10W lamp:(CFL3PK) $15
ELECTRIC BIKES
These fantastic bikes can be ridden under electric power,
peddle power or both at once and can be folded in half to
transport or store. Features include inflatable tyres. front
and rear wheel brakes, lights and more. Motor power:
200W Max speed: 20km/h Max load capacity: 100kg
Charging period: 6 - 8 hours Distance: 15km Battery
capacity: 12V/12Ah x 2 Weigh: 27kg (SC4)
Size: 1130 x 390
x 1000mm Brake:
hand brake, rear
wheel drum brake.
Battery capacity:
12AH, 24V.
Battery charger:
240V Motor power:
200W. Charging
period: 4-5 hours.
Speed: 20km/h.
Range: 15km.
Wheels: inflatable.
Frame: painted
steel. Weight: 21kg.
Maximum load: 100kg. Forget waiting for trains and
busses that don't come, the regulations on the NSW RTA
website indicate that they can be ridden under the same
rules as a bicycle. Come complete with batteries, lights
and charger. $300 (SC3)
0
0
$3
NEW E-BIKES
www.oatleyelectronics.com Suppliers of kits and surplus electronics to hobbyists, experimenters, industry & professionals.
Orders: Ph ( 02 ) 9584 3563, Fax 9584 3561, sales<at>oatleyelectronics.com, PO Box 89 Oatley NSW 2223
OR www.oatleye.com
major credit cards accepted, Post & Pack typically $7 Prices subject to change without notice ACN 068 740 081 ABN18068 740 081
SC_MAR_05
The Jaycar “UV Anti-bacterial Cleaner” kills germs
on toothbrushes and shavers and with a small modification
can also erase EPROMs.
A 1000mF capacitor is connected in parallel with the onboard 220mF capacitor, extending tube run time from a
few minutes per session to over 15 minutes. Due to space
restrictions, the capacitor is connected to the PC board
with flying leads, which are fashioned from light-duty
hook-up wire. It can then be held in place with hot melt
glue or non-acetic silicone sealant.
A cheap UV
EPROM eraser
A recent gimmick in toothbrush holders proves
to be just the ticket for erasing EPROM-based
ICs. One additional capacitor and five minutes
of work are all that’s required to perform the
transformation . . . and you can still use it to
sterilise your toothbrush!
By BARRY HUBBLE
Not too long ago, enthusiasts developing microprocessor-based projects
needed access to an ultra-violet (UV)
eraser. Unlike current technology devices that can be electrically erased in
seconds without even removing them
from circuit, older EPROM-based devices have to be exposed to ultra-violet
80 Silicon Chip
light to erase their contents.
With the advent of electrically
erasable memories (EEPROMs), the
requirement for a UV eraser has gone
by the wayside and it is unlikely that
most hobbyists will have one in their
kit. However, if you need to modify
or repair older equipment that uses
EPROMS or want to dabble with any of
the microcontrollers that use EPROMbased program memory (such as the
PIC16C745/65), then an eraser is still
a “must have” item.
Dedicated UV erasers are available
but at around $300 or more, they
would be considered too expensive
by most experimenters. Even homebuilt units could prove expensive with
tubes costing around $70. Of course,
exposure to sunlight for a week or
so may erase the chip but don’t hold
your breath!
A cost-effective solution lies in the
Jaycar GH1507 toothbrush holder
($24.95). In its intended use, the UV
light from the fluorescent tube in this
product kills germs in your toothbrushes and shavers. As luck would
siliconchip.com.au
Tektronix TPS2000 The New Isolated
Channel Battery
Operated Scope.
Here’s a close-up of the rear of the board showing
the two connection points. In this example, the black
(bottom) wire goes to the negative capacitor terminal.
have it, the light spectrum used for germ eradication
also works well for erasing EPROMs.
Modifications
Whenever the door of the toothbrush holder is closed,
it closes a switch, turning on the tube and starting a
timer. After a few minutes, the tube is automatically
switched off. All that’s required is a modification to the
timing circuit to extend the operating time of the tube
to something more suitable for EPROM erasure.
In its simplest form, the modification consists of adding a 1000mF capacitor in parallel with the existing 220mF
capacitor in the timing circuit. This larger total capacitance gives an exposure time of about 15-20 minutes. I
have erased four chips at a time with this exposure and
have encountered no problems. However, due to the
spread of the lamp specifications (0.75 - 1.5mW/cm2),
it may be necessary to alter the value of capacitance by
trial and error to achieve reliable erasure.
To modify the unit, carefully remove the rear cover
and identify the 220mF timing capacitor (the largest
The existing toothbrush rack is easily
removed, allowing up to four EPROMs
to be erased at a time.
Do you face these Power
Measurement Challenges?
• Make multi-channel floating
measurements
• Measure current and voltage
distortion and their spectral content
• Measure harmonics, instantaneous
power, power factor, switching loss
to characterise power electronics
circuitry
• Measure 3-phase currents & voltages
• Validate compliance to regulatory
standards
• Work in an environment without
AC Power
• Document and Save your
measurement results
For more information about
the TPS2000 family...
Talk to NewTek Instruments:
Ph: 02 9888 0100
email: info<at>newtekinstruments.com
NewTek Instruments Pty Ltd - Sydney - Melbourne
www.newtekinstruments.com
siliconchip.com.au
March 2005 81
Fig.1: a simple IC carrier can be made up from a piece of scrap plastic and
some wooden dowels if the unit is to be wall-mounted. You will also need
to affix a strip of conductive (anti-static) foam to the opposite side of the
plastic to hold the EPROMs in place – see photos below.
one). Solder a 1000mF 25V electrolytic
capacitor in parallel with this capacitor, ensuring that the correct polarity
is observed. Due to lack of space to
add the capacitor directly, it should be
attached with flying leads and secured
with hot melt glue or similar in a position where it doesn’t foul the case.
Before screwing on the cover, double
check the polarity!
Warning: never operate the unit in
a disassembled condition or without
the plastic door fully closed. The UV
rays produced by this type of tube
could damage your eyesight!
Scottish special?
With a little planning, the cost of
this project may well be less than a
dollar (for the capacitor). How? Well,
consider the possibilities were you to
give your spouse or friend a toothbrush
holder for his/her birthday. Then using
our special IC carrier, you can substitute your EPROMs for the usual line-up
of toothbrushes when he or she is out
mowing the lawn! Perfect!
All jokes aside, the unit can easily do
both jobs with a couple of simple additions. First, a switch can be inserted
in series with the 1000mF capacitor,
allowing it to be switched out of circuit for toothbrush cleaning duty. This
helps to maximise battery life.
Second, a clip-in IC carrier can be
installed to allow the unit to operate
in its normal position (on a wall). In
this case, the chips must be aligned
length-ways on the carrier to prevent
fouling the toothbrush rack.
The carrier can be fashioned out of
scrap materials and is held in place by
the toothbrush rack. I used a piece of
2.5mm thick plastic from a jiffy box cut
to the dimensions shown, with some
9mm dowel off-cuts held in place by
4g x 12mm countersunk screws. A
piece of conductive foam is then glued
to the face.
Power
If used frequently, you may wish to
dispense with the batteries and power
the unit from a 9V DC plugpack. We
found that maximum light output occurs at about 8.5V input, so if using a
multi-voltage plugpack, try one of the
lower settings.
We found that the “6V” position on
our 1A plugpack produced 9.2V when
supplying the modest (110mA) current
demands of the holder. A 1N4004 diode is series with the supply brought
this back to the desired 8.5V.
SC
ABOVE: the EPROMs to be erased
are attached to the holder simply by
pushing them into the conductive
foam.
RIGHT: the IC holder is then clipped
into place in the toothbrush holder
with the EPROMs facing down, ready
for erasing. Note that the lid must be
closed for the unit to operate.
82 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
BUILD YOURSELF A
WINDMILL
GENERATOR
Part 4: the nuts and bolts . . . by Glenn Littleford*
In our final article of the series, we look at a couple of
propeller options, the mast and further
refinements of the alternator.
This set of tim
ber blades w
ere carved
by Dennis La
th
and they are am. Length is 1150mm
performing w
ell on the
F&P windmil
l.
reduce visual They’re painted blue to
impact.
siliconchip.com.au
March 2005 83
T
he propeller is the engine of the
windmill, taking the power of
the wind and converting it into
rotary force to drive the alternator. It
gets its power from the wind by effectively changing the wind direction and
slowing the wind down as it passes
through the propeller.
The air behind the windmill has
lost most of its forward direction and
is instead “swirling” in a spiral, until
it regains its forward direction some
distance downstream.
There is a lot of science and maths
involved in this process and I’ll only
touch on the basics here – you could
write a book on the subject and still
not cover everything.
Fig.2: a blade can be thought of as a
series of “stations”. Note the twist in
this blade.
The blades
Each blade has a flat or concave front
surface and a curved rear surface. As
the wind passes over the blade it provides Lift, driving the blade forward.
Our blade has an angle of attack, calculated to provide the most lift without
stalling and is usually around 5-10°.
So if we know the blade speed, angle of attack and wind speed we can
calculate the best overall angle for our
blade to provide the best lift, as well
as the chord, or width, of the blade
(see Fig.1).
We also need to allow for the fact
that the blades tips are travelling much
faster than the blade root (the point
closest to the center), so the tips must
have a different angle with respect to
the blade root. We call this the twist
of the blade.
The blade angles are calculated at
set points along the blade, called “sta-
The propeller blades need to extract
as much energy from the wind as possible and provide as must rotational
speed as possible. Propellers used in
power generation are designed to rotate faster than the wind speed. This
is called the TSR, or Tip Speed Ratio.
A propeller with a TSR of five means
the tips of the propeller are travelling
at five times the wind speed, so if the
wind speed is 25km/h, the tips are
travelling at 125km/h.
A good TSR for power generation
is between four and seven. A TSR of
over eight is achievable but at these
speeds the tip velocity is so high that
blade wear and noise become a serious problem.
Modern blades are designed like
aerofoils and need to factor in angle
of attack, lift, drag and stalling.
Fig.1: modern windmill blades are shaped
like the wings of an aircraft and use the same
principle of operation.
84 Silicon Chip
tions” (see Fig 2). On a 1m long blade
you might have 10 stations at 100mm
intervals so we need to calculate the
angle for each station.
Fortunately there are free calculators available on the internet that do
all the maths for us – we just type in
the basic figures and the calculator
will give us the best angles and chord
widths for each station.
Making it with wood
The windmill kit described last
month includes an adapter plate to
suit a set of timber blades, plus an
adapter to allow you to fit commercially available blades. The timber
blade adapter was designed to suit
blades carved from 140mm wide by
45mm thick timber planks, a common
size in treated pine.
Why use timber? Carved timber
blades can offer excellent performance, as we can achieve a near
perfect blade profile and have good
strength ( trees are very good at bending in the wind without breaking ).
But there is a catch: carving timber
blades is a very time consuming process, and you need patience and wood
working skills to produce a good set
of blades (The first blade is easiest, it’s
getting the other two exactly the same
as the first that’s hard).
If you have the time then I would
recommend making a set of timber
blades, as their performance is exceptional.
But if you are like me and couldn’t
cut a straight line if you life depended
on it, then factory-made blades are
another option. You can purchase
high quality extruded plastic blades
for about $35 each. The adapter in the
siliconchip.com.au
of PVC is a bit of an unknown. UV
light will weaken PVC and it could
shatter, sending sharp splinters in all
directions, so a safe operating life of
two years or less is expected.
Currently experiments are been
carried out by windmill hobbyists in
UV-protective paints and blade mounting, so time will tell if PVC is a viable
alternative to timber as a material for
home-made blades.
Balancing
PVC is another windmill blade option,
but the long term reliability is yet
unknown and there is the fear of them
shattering under load.
windmill kit will allow you to fit three
or six blades, depending on your own
needs and location – six blades for low
wind areas and three for high wind or
costal windmill sites.
At the end of the this article are a
few links to websites about carving
timber blades and sources for factory
made blades.
There has been some development
in using large-diameter PVC pipe as
blade material. By cutting a PVC pipe
lengthways and reshaping the leading
and trailing edge with a file, you can
achieve a near perfect blade profile,
and the process is so simple you could
make a complete set of blades in a
few hours.
You would need some large diameter (250mm), 10mm wall thickness
pipe. A concern is that the durability
Once you have made your blades
and mounted them on your windmill
you will need to balance them.
I can not stress how important balancing is. An unbalanced blade will
vibrate at high speed and cause bearing
failure or worse, blade breakage. At
low speed an unbalanced blade will
cause the windmill tower to wobble
and strain guy wire supports.
Balancing is best done in a windfree workshop with the windmill
mounted level, as it would be on top
of the mast.
To check the balance of your propeller, check for a heavy blade; the blade
that always wants to turn down. Add
weight to the light-side blade/s until
there is no noticeable heavy blade.
Once done, give the blade several
gentle spins and again see if there is a
heavy blade. Add weight to the light
sides until balance is best.
Weight can be added by drilling
and adding lead into the blade tips,
the lead glued in place with 24-hour
epoxy. To test if the weight is correct
The windmill kit includes these
adjustable plates, used to get the best
propeller balance possible.
before drilling, sticky-tape the weights
to the blade tips until you have the
correct balance, then permanently fit
the weights. Make sure the weights
are properly glued in - at high speed
there will be a lot of centrifugal force
on the weights and you don’t want
them coming out.
The windmill kit described last
month includes a set of adjustable
weights that are secured to the blades
with the boltholes at the blade roots.
The weights have slots that make fine
adjustment easy.
Decogging
When you rotate the alternator by
hand you will notice a cogging action,
or a stiffness in rotation at certain
points. This is caused by the interaction of the magnets and the stator
Fig.3: decogging involves rounding off the stator poles to make the windmill easier to start in light winds. Far left is the
standard stator with square ends, creating a stiff magnetic resistance to overcome. Rounding off the stator, as shown
alongside, sacrifices some power but reduces cogging. The photo at right shows a decogged motor.
siliconchip.com.au
March 2005 85
poles. This can make the windmill
hard to start in light winds, as the
propeller needs to push the alternator
past the first cog.
Once started, cogging has little effect
on the windmill performance - and
in fact the windmill can continue to
operate in much slower winds than
was needed to get it started.
If you live in a high wind area, the
cogging effect is not a problem. But in
a low wind area, your windmill may
spend most of the time just sitting
there, doing nothing.
You could argue that if there is
not enough wind to get the windmill started, then there is not really
enough wind to generate any useful
power anyway so it’s better to have
the windmill stationary to save on
wear and tear. But if you do live in a
low wind area and want to extract as
much power as possible, even if it’s
only an amp or so, you might want to
consider de-cogging.
You can modify the F&P armature
to reduce cogging, at the expense of
a small amount of output power. Decogging involves reshaping the stator
poles with a power file (or hand file if
you have the time and strength).
From the factory the poles have
a square edge and are spaced about
0.5mm from the magnets as they rotate past.
This square corner gives a sharp
rise in magnet flux through the pole
producing more power but also increases cogging. If we round off the
corners we introduce the magnetic
Folding tower
flux slowly into the pole and reduce
cogging (Fig 3).
But as I said before, this will also reduce output power slightly. While cogging can’t be eliminated completely,
we can reduce it to a point where the
windmill will start in lighter winds.
Another way to reduce cogging is
to space the magnet hub out from the
stator.
You can try this by un-doing the
plastic hub retaining nut, effectively
sliding the hub off the stator. A more
permanent solution would be to fit
spacer washers onto the drive shaft
before fitting the magnet hub.
Again performance is lost, so you
need to find a compromise.
The Mast
Its not much good having a windmill
unless you can mount it in on something – the mast.
As a rule, the higher, the better. You
want to get the windmill up into a
clean breeze without any turbulence
from trees or buildings. While a 20m
mast would be great, it’s just not practical for most of us.
We do need to consider two things,
maintenance and safety. You will need
to get the windmill down from time to
time to do maintenance and modification, especially in the early days while
you are experimenting.
Once you have the windmill sorted
and making power, you would only
need to take it down ever year or so to
apply a little oil, check connections,
and remove bugs and frogs.
Fig.4: two common mast types are folding towers and tilt towers. Each have their
advantages but in all cases, use as many guy wires as practical.
Tilt tower
86 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Yeah, frogs! Up here in the tropics
I had little green tree frogs climb the
mast and crawl into the stator at night,
only to get centrifuged the next day
when the wind picked up. A little
grease smeared around the base of the
mast put a stop to that.
The other consideration is safety. In
good winds the tips of your propeller
could be doing over 200km/h and
should be considered lethal.
Your mast should at LEAST be
high enough so it’s not possible for
anyone to reach the propeller blade
from ground level (even jump up and
reach), plus a safety margin – say another metre or so.
Other things can and do go wrong:
blades can come off and towers can fall
over. My first tower fell over after days
of heavy rain had soaked the ground
around the guy wire supports and then
a storm pulled one guy wire support
(a star picket embedded in concrete)
right out of the ground.
So you want to make sure your
windmill is placed in a position where
such a failure could not do any harm
to people or property.
As a general rule most towers
require council approval and such
approval is rarely given if your tower
could fall onto your next-door-neighbour’s property.
I highly recommend you talk to an
structural engineer when designing
your windmill mast. Consideration
will need to be made of soil type,
tower height, weight (about 25kg for
a completed windmill) and wind
loading, based on the diameter of the
windmill blade.
I use a folding mast for my own
windmill. The mast pivots in the middle and I use a small hand winch to
raise or lower the windmill. It takes
about three minutes and the design
means I can work on the windmill
without any assistance.
The mast pole is 70mm diameter
5mm wall galvanised pipe, and is 7m
high when upright.
The base is bolted to a buried concrete block 500mm round x 500mm
deep. There are three 8mm guy wires,
each attached to concrete blocks
300mm round by 700mm deep. So
far this new mast has performed well
and survived several storms with no
problems.
For higher masts you would need to
look at a gin bar setup and use more
guy wires. The more guy, wires the
siliconchip.com.au
better – they stop mast wobble and give
you peace of mind (see Fig 4).
Some Useful Links . . .
Battery Charger
Hugh Picket at www.scoraigwind.
co.uk has detailed instructions on
windmill building and in particular
timber blade design and carving.
Once your windmill is up and going you need some way to regulate
the output. Most windmills are used
for charging battery banks, so a charge
controller must be able to switch the
windmill over to a load once the
batteries are fully charged or battery
damage is likely.
A commercial controller available is
the Plasmatronic range of solar/wind
charge controllers, and feature programmable switch over voltages and
logging. Or you could build your own.
My own charger is based on a PICAXE
chip and uses power mosfets to handle
all the heavy current switching. The
design is a work in progress but the
circuit diagram and program listing
is available on my web site.
(Also see the note below).
I have a couple of 12V car batteries
wired in parallel as storage. The system powers a string of garden lights
modified to take 5W 12V light bulbs, a
50W 12V bed side lamp and a DC water
pressure pump. I also have a small
300W inverter on standby to power the
TV when the power goes out.
Shutting down the windmill.
The windmill kit described last
month includes a furling system that
will turn the windmill out of the wind
safely if the wind speed or alternator
load are excessive.
But if you’re expecting a storm, or
plan to go away for a few days it’s
always a good idea to shut down the
windmill.
Once a windmill is shut down the
propeller is stopped or only spinning
slowly and therefore presents less area
to the wind. Only when a propeller
is at operating speed will it reach its
maximum wind load and exert the
maximum force against the tower (a
stationary propeller has a relatively
small wind loading).
We can shut down the windmill in
two ways. If you have a rope attached
to the tail you can pull the windmill
out of the wind and tie the rope to one
of the guy wire anchors.
Another option is to short out the
windmill by connecting the output
leads together. This will usually slow
the windmill down to a safe speed
unless the wind speed is too high, in
which case the windmill will con-
Michael at www.ecoinn.co.nz has
been using F&P motors as generators for many years and sells F&P
parts, water wheels and complete
windmills using F&P motors. He also
sells high quality blade sets suited to
our windmill kit.
www.otherpower.com has a collection of windmills made from car parts
and scrap materials. OtherPower also
hosts the FieldLines message board,
a great place to share idea’s and ask
questions.
Plus my own web site at www.thebackshed.com has more information on the F&P windmill, as well as
other windmill creations and ideas.
tinue to run and possibly burn out
the stator.
In finishing, there has been a great
deal of interest in home made windmills in the last few years and recently
in using the F&P Smartdrive motor as
an alternator.
Windmills offer a very cheap source
of power compared to solar, You can
build a 300W windmill for less than
$300 with a bit of workshop activity
and scrounging around – that’s $1 per
watt compared to solar cells at close to
$10 per watt. And there is a lot of satisfaction is generating your own power
from something you built yourself.
On the internet you can find a
wealth of knowledge on home made
windmills. I’ve included some links
which you should find useful but there
are a whole lot more on the ’net. SC
COMING NEXT MONTH
While this practical Windmill series
from Glenn Littleford has now concluded, next month we plan to bring
you a Wind Turbine Regulator and
Dummy Load, developed independently by Oatley Electronics. This
design will suit virtually all of the wind
generation systems in use today as
well as many hydro-electric, solar and
other “alternate” energy sources.
March 2005 87
Salvage It!
BY JULIAN EDGAR
A $10 lathe & drill press tachometer
In essence, this tacho is a simple
frequency-to-voltage converter driving
a moving coil meter. The standard
adjustment pot is shown at top right.
Want to know the
chuck speed of a
lathe or drill press?
A car tachometer can
easily be adapted to
do the job for less
than 10 dollars.
A read-out of chuck speed on
variable-speed drill presses and lathes
can be very useful. That particularly
applies if you use an electronic speed
controller but even if you have to swap
gears or pulleys, it’s still good to have
a display showing the tool’s rotational
speed.
In fact, wouldn’t it be good if you
could have a big dial displaying revs
per minute? Hmm, cars have one of
those – it’s called a “tachometer”.
And all modern tachos are driven by
a simple pulse input, so it’s quite easy
to adapt one to do the job.
It’s easy and cheap to make a tachometer that measures the rotational speed of
your drill press or lathe. The project uses just a few low-cost components and a
re-scaled tachometer from a car.
88 Silicon Chip
The components
To make this speed display you’ll
siliconchip.com.au
need to scrounge a tacho from a car.
When sourcing many secondhand
parts, you don’t want to go along to a
wrecking yard and ask for the tacho
from a specific model – not unless you
want to pay top dollar, anyway. No,
what you want is an orphan that’s going cheap or perhaps it’s part of a dash
display that’s been discarded because
the faceplate is scratched.
The Australian-built Nissan tacho
used to make this display was sourced
from the shop at the local tip. In fact,
I got the whole instrument panel for
just a few dollars. My guess is that it
is from a mid-80s Australian-built Nissan Skyline or Pintara but that doesn’t
really matter.
In addition to the tachometer, you’ll
also need a 12V DC plugpack, a reed
switch (eg, from the speedo of the same
instrument panel), a small magnet,
a 10kW trimpot, a 33kW resistor, a
1000mF capacitor and a box to mount
it all in. To make a new scale, you’ll
need a PC, scanner and printer.
By the way, many older Nissans use
reed switches to transmit road speed
from the mechanically driven speedo
to the ECU. However, if you don’t
get a reed switch with the speedo, it
can be picked up quite cheaply from
electronics stores.
Building it
Fig.1 shows how it all goes together.
A reed switch is briefly closed each
time a magnet mounted on the driven
pulley passes by. This reed switch is
fed with a nominal +5V at one end, derived from potentiometer VR1 which
is across the +12V supply.
Therefore, each time the reed switch
Fig.1: the drill press tacho uses a tachometer that’s been scrounged from a
car. As shown, a reed switch is fed with +5V DC, derived from trimpot VR1
which is across the 12V plugpack supply. The reed switch briefly closes
each time a magnet attached to the machine tool’s output shaft passes close
by and feeds an input pulse to the tacho’s input terminal. The 33kW pulldown resistor ensures that the signal input is low when the reed switch is
open, while a 1000mF capacitor smooths the signal that’s fed to the meter.
closes, a +5V pulse is fed to the tacho’s
signal input. Conversely, when the
reed switch opens, the tacho’s input
is pulled to ground by a 33kW resistor.
Note that the tacho assembly shown
here has a separate PC board for
the electronics, which is actually a
frequency-to-voltage converter. This
particular one uses an LM2917N as
The reed switch was salvaged from an old film processor
at the local tip. Here it can be seen mounted directly
above the output pulley of the drill press.
siliconchip.com.au
the frequency-to-voltage converter
chip and the datasheets for this are
available on the web.
As calibrated from the factory, it’s
likely that the speed range will be too
high for the new application – there
aren’t many cases where you want
the lathe or drill press doing 8000
RPM! This means two things: first,
The reed switch is triggered by this magnetic washer
which is glued to the pulley. This washer was extracted
from a salvaged stepper motor.
March 2005 89
Here’s the original instrument panel and an early draft of the scanned and rescaled drill press tacho scale. It’s printed out 1:1 and so is a perfect size match
for the original instrument.
a small “washer-shaped” magnet taken
from the middle of a salvaged stepper
motor.
Once the magnet is installed, wire
up the rest of the circuit as shown in
Fig.1. Trimpot VR1 should then be
adjusted to provide a nominal +5V to
the reed switch. Don’t forget to install
the pull-down resistor.
The capacitor across the meter’s
drive damps the jerky movement that
occurs when the input frequency is
lower than it would normally be in a
car. Note the polarity of the capacitor
– you can work out the meter’s polarity by disconnecting it from its drive
circuit and applying a low voltage (eg,
1V) to its leads. When it’s connected
so that the needle moves in the right
direction, take note of the polarity of
the supply.
Testing
the frequency input range of the tacho
will have to be altered; and second,
a new scale will need to be made for
the meter.
In our case, the on-board pot gave
plenty of adjustment. In fact, with
just one input pulse per revolution
of the drill-press, the needle could be
adjusted for full scale deflection even at
the slowest drill press speed. However,
we’re getting ahead of ourselves.
Tacho connections
The tacho should have three connections: +12V, ground and signal
(frequency) input. If you buy the tacho
with the whole instrument panel intact
(the best approach), look very closely
at the tracks on the flexible PC board
on the back of the panel. In many
cases, +12V and ground (earth) will
be marked, leaving only the third pin
which must then be the signal input.
Conversely, if the board isn’t marked, you may need to seek the help of
an automotive instrument repairer to
get the pin-outs right. Alternatively,
you can usually figure it out by tracing
the supply connections.
Once the wiring connections are
sorted, it’s best to do some experimentation. Use good quality glue to hold
the magnet in place on the driven pulley or gear and mount the reed switch
so that the magnet passes close by it
on each rotation of the shaft. We used
The revised and modified scale, printed out on orange paper
and covered in clear contact. But just who is behind the “JE
Instruments” company?
90 Silicon Chip
Once you’ve wired up the circuit,
start the machine tool and make sure
you get at least some needle deflection on the tacho. If you don’t get any,
experiment with the value of the pulldown resistor. This is easily done if
you use a 10kW pot wired as a variable
resistor and adjust it up and down.
If there’s still no joy, try increasing
the voltage going to the reed switch.
Finally, if you still get no needle movement, add a second magnet directly
opposite the first so that there are more
pulses per revolution.
Once the needle is registering something, run the machine at its fastest
speed and try adjusting the on-board
pot to get full-scale deflection. If you
A reed switch from a speedo was initially used
but some dummy bent a lead too close to the
glass envelope and broke it! Another salvaged
component was then used instead – the reed
from a float switch.
siliconchip.com.au
Silicon Chip
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P
The rear of the modified assembly. At left is the pot providing the +5V reed
switch supply, at top-right is the new smoothing capacitor, and at right is the
PC-board from the original tacho. The 33kW pull-down resistor is just visible at
far right and connects the signal input to ground.
can’t get there with the built-in adjustment, add more magnets to the shaft
of the drill-press or lathe.
Calibration
If you know the fastest and slowest
speed of the machine, you can calibrate
the scale to those revs – everything in
between will then fall into place since
the meter response is linear.
You can use your PC and a printer
to make a new scale. First, scan in the
original car tacho scale and use image
manipulation software (eg, Photoshop
or Paintshop Pro) to alter the numbers
and to delete other markings you don’t
want. Of course, at this stage you can
also add whatever labels are suitable.
Finally, print it out at full size and it’s
then just a case of sticking it over the
original. We used clear adhesive film
SC
to protect the paper scale.
Alternative Calibration
Another good way of calibrating
the unit is to first use a frequency
measuring multimeter to measure
the speed of the tool. The meter
will measure in Hertz (cycles per
second), so to calculate the tool’s
rotational speed in RPM, just multiply by 60. Note: this assumes that
you have just the one magnet on
the output pulley.
If the meter jumps around a lot,
try temporarily adding small value
capacitors in parallel with the reed
switch to dampen the bounce that
occurs when the switch closes.
Alternatively, if you have a
scope, it’s ideal for reading the
frequency.
Rat It Before You Chuck It!
Whenever you throw away an old TV (or
VCR or washing machine or dishwasher
or printer) do you always think that surely
there must be some good salvageable
components inside? Well, this column is
for you! (And it’s also for people without a
lot of dough.) Each month we’ll use bits
and pieces sourced from discards, sometimes in mini-projects and other times as
an ideas smorgasbord.
And you can contribute as well. If you
have a use for specific parts which can
siliconchip.com.au
easily be salvaged from goods commonly
being thrown away, we’d love to hear from
you. Perhaps you use the pressure switch
from a washing machine to control a pump.
Or maybe you salvage the high-quality
bearings from VCR heads. Or perhaps
you’ve found how the guts of a cassette
player can be easily turned into a metal
detector. (Well, we made the last one up
but you get the idea . . .)
If you have some practical ideas, write
in and tell us!
These binders will protect your
copies of S ILICON CHIP. They
feature heavy-board covers & are
made from a dis
tinctive 2-tone
green vinyl. They hold 12 issues &
will look great on your bookshelf.
H 80mm internal width
H SILICON CHIP logo printed in
gold-coloured lettering on spine
& cover
H Buy five and get them postage
free!
Price: $A14.95 plus $A10.00 p&p
per order. Available only in Aust.
Silicon Chip Publications
PO Box 139
Collaroy Beach 2097
Or call (02) 9939 3295; or fax (02)
9939 2648 & quote your credit
card number.
Use this handy form
Enclosed is my cheque/money order for
$________ or please debit my
Visa Mastercard
Card No:
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March 2005 91
PUTTING THE PICAXE TO WORK . . .
PICAXE DATA OVER
477MHz UHF CB
We’ve used the
PICAXE to do a
whole range of things
since it first came
out. Now let’s do
something really
useful: send digital
data over a UHF CB
radio. Yes, it’s legal!
by Stan Swan
T
here’s perhaps no finer recent
example of remote communications than the Huygen space
probe pictures direct from Saturn’s
moon Titan.
Even at the speed of light, these
ultra-weak digital signals took about
half an hour to reach Earth, yet were
astoundingly clear!
Although such data signalling is
naturally associated with the computer age, its basics date back well over
a century to Morse code and Baudot
teletype.
Data communication has had a rich
history pre-dating even early electrical
technology, with smoke signals, flashing mirrors, semaphore flags, marks in
the sand, “1 if by land – 2 if by sea”,
green go/red stop lights and so on.
But back in the 21st century and
terra firma, the cheap, licence-free
40-channel UHF CB sets mentioned
last month have two channels (22 &
23) reserved for data transmission.
Australian/NZ regulations originally specified this data to have a
duty cycle of just 3 seconds per hour,
which presumably allowed for diverse
services to timeshare the two channels,
since three parts in 3600 is a very low
92 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
ratio indeed. It was probably envisaged
that much data would be simplex (one
way) as occasional telemetry (measurement at a distance), indicating reservoir levels or telecommand (remote
control) irrigation information, open
farm gates, etc where changes over an
hour would not be too dramatic.
However, in light of recent traumatic tsunami sea water level changes
this looks far too conservative – in the
real world many things may change
horrifyingly fast, with the lack of such
localised digital-age warning devices
in stark contrast to Titan monitoring
over a billion kilometres away.
Incidentally, www.manuka.orcon.
net.nz/cbdata.htm links to data references and ACA UHF CB regulations.
Which data protocol?
The type of UHF CB data allowed is
not specified. So as well as classic RS232 serial techniques (to be covered
later), various DIY schemes and local
protocols could be organised.
Encoding and decoding, often
readily addressed now by software,
may lead to technical or practical
limitations. Communication issues
that contend with weak signals, slow
speeds, error correction, interference
and limited bandwidth arise as well.
Hence it may be tempting to send
classic human readable Morse code
but that’s now officially an obsolete
signalling technique and few people
can understand it without considerable training. (Please, no correspondence from irate brass pounders!)
Consequently, given their ease of
generating serial data and assorted
audio tones, it’s no contest to use a
Picaxe microcontroller approach.
For this initial UHF CB data treatment, a 3-lead (Maxim) Dallas Semiconductor DS18B20 temperaturemeasuring device is simply read at
regular intervals by a Picaxe 08M using
its inbuilt ‘readtemp’ command.
The DS18B20 can read temperatures
accurate to 0.5°C between -10° and
85° but can handle -55° to +125° with
reduced accuracy.
This Celsius value is then converted
to a simple audio tone sequence relating to temperature, under a scheme
where longer tones mean “tens” and
shorter tones “units”.
With only a brief explanation even
a child could decode the temperature,
as of course can any listening audience
with a UHF CB receiver – no computer
siliconchip.com.au
IO PINS
(CHANNELS)
(TO PC
CON2
DB9 SERIAL PORT)
CHANNEL 0: PROG OR OUT
CHANNEL 3: IN ONLY
2
4.7kΩ
22k
3
10k
5
1
2
3
IC1
PICAXE-08M
4
LEDS
7
0
6
1
5
2
8
3
K
A
4
DS18B20
V+
8
+4.5V
(3xAA)
4
1
+V
GND
DATA
SC
2005
PIEZO
100nF
WHITE
LED λ
DATA
DS18B20
λ
LDR
TO UHF CB
TRANSCEIVER
MIC SOCKET*
1kΩ
GND
(* JAYCAR DC-1030
USES 3.5mm STEREO
PLUG TIP AND BASE)
UHF CB DATA MODULATION
While this circuit uses the 08M (as distinct from the earlier 08) connections are
pin-for-pin compatible and the vast majority of functions are identical. It’s just
that the 08M has more grunt in certain areas! The white LED and LDR provide
an isolated means of “keying” the transmitter (ie, turning it on).
or software necessary to monitor that
heatwave!
The temperature is preceded by
pleasant attention-getting audible sliding tones (based upon a cat’s greeting
in fact!), then long and short tones to
suit, similar to radio time signals or
PC boot error beeps.
As an example, 23°C would sound
as long, long, short, short, short with
a tropical 31°C long, long, long, short
and a cool 4°C as just short, short,
short, short. Negative temperatures
have a higher “frosty” tone, with zero
a drawn out “l-o-n-g”.
Your local conditions will readily
attune your ear to a sequence (you
3.5mm STEREO
PLUG TO UHF
CB TRANSCEIVER
PLUG
BODY
won’t be having many subzero values
in Darwin!).
Calibration, against a known temperature standard, can be made by
placing the unit in the fridge, freezer
or (for elevated values) a car parked
in the hot sun.
Extending the leads on the DS18B20
is quite feasible but avoid direct contact of exposed terminals with water,
of course – cover them with neutral
silicone sealant or heatshrink tubing
perhaps if monitoring your home beer
fridge, via UHF CB, when at work some
kilometres away!
Given the range of these CB sets
with an external antenna (as detailed
PLUG
TIP
PIEZO
0V
100nF
4.5V
PICAXE08M
10kΩ
D A
22kΩ
5 3 2
(RS232)
10kΩ
4 3 2 1 0 LDR
LED
+V
DS18B20
K
GND
D
4.7kΩ
+V
This layout on proto-breadboard should look pretty familiar to anyone who has
been following our PICAXE series (it first started back in 2003!). It’s not exactly
the same as the photo opposite – follow this one if there is any confusion.
March 2005 93
February 2005 SILICON CHIP), of course
the opposite application may appeal
– did your public building air conditioning/heating get turned on well
before the attendants arrived?
Connecting to the CB
The Jaycar DC-1030 UHF CB set
shown here comes fitted with a single
3.5mm stereo socket. This does multiple duty – internal battery charging
as well as external microphone and
earphones.
Experimentation revealed that external audio could be fed in via the
tip end and body of a matching 3.5mm
stereo plug but that the transmitter
would only be keyed on if a resistance,
in parallel across this input, fell below
around 1kW.
Such a solid state transceiver
switching technique is rather in contrast to historic “ker-chunk” relay or
big switch action but apparently is becoming the norm on hand-held 2-way
radios. The budget Dick Smith D-1793
models, however, use a smaller 2.5mm
socket and may need VOX transmitter
switching instead.
Opto-coupled transmission
A neat Picaxe way to provide this
resistance is to illuminate, at the
right time, a light-dependent resistor,
or LDR, with a nearby white LED. A
typical LDR has a “dark” resistance
of some (sometimes many) megohms,
dropping to the low hundreds of Ohms
in bright light or sunshine.
94 Silicon Chip
An offcut of dark plastic sleeving
allows the opto-coupled pair to switch
the transmitter when a high signal
comes from output 2.
A series 1kW resistor dims the LED
sufficiently to reduce battery drain
while still ensuring reliable switching
and the optical isolation helps keep
possibly confusing RF from the sensitive Picaxe circuitry.
To avoid overdriving the transmitter, audio from the Picaxe output 0 is
passed via a series capacitor – 100nF
(0.1mF) was found suitable.
A local piezo sounder attached
to this channel allows the outgoing
sounds to be also conveniently heard,
and of course the glowing of the white
LED indicates that the transmitter is
being keyed on.
Powering-down the sensor
The DS18B20 sensor can normally
draw several milliamps, even when
not being read. If an extended “sleep”
is underway, with attendant microamp level power drain on the Picaxe
itself, it’s wasteful to “keep its motor
running” by supplying such an extra
component.
As the 08M has a spare output
channel, a technique suggested on
the Picaxe forum (www.picaxe.com)
is used to greatly reduce current drain.
The DS18B20 is itself controlled by
Picaxe output 4 which only switches
it on just before it needs to be read. No
significant sensor warm up time was
noted, although a brief settling period
was provided in the code.
Abundant code space is still available on the 08M and extension for interrupts (to flag an unexpected value),
or data logging is feasible. Even a store
and forward scheme could be used, so
that a whole package of values could be
sent at a predetermined interval – akin
to checking your mailbox perhaps?
Construction
It’s recommended once again you
make up this circuit on solderless
prototyping breadboard, as we’ve used
in earlier Picaxe articles.
If you’ve made up any previous
Picaxe projects on breadboards, wiring
this one should be a cinch.
Note in the photo we have stuck
a tiny label around the DS18B20, to
avoid confusion with deceptively
look-alike BC547 transistors!
We’ll be using almost exactly the
same layout for an extended UHF
CB data approach employing faster
machine readable encoding.
Naturally more specialised machine
decoding will then be needed too – as
Morse diehards will testify, human
readable data may be slower but it does
have some practical benefits!
Footnote: Although a well established
and highly respected IC, manufacturing
problems lead to DS18B20 supplies
being globally very erratic in mid 2004.
Hopefully this has now sorted itself
out, to ensure reliable supplies for this
circuit.
siliconchip.com.au
UHFCBDS listing (also available for download: www.picaxe.orcon.net.nz/uhfcbds.bas)
‘=> uhfcbds.bas <= 477MHz licence free UHF CB & DS18B20 combo- Ver 1.0 Boxing Day 2004
‘For Silicon Chip Picaxe article (March 2005) via Stan. Swan => s.t.swan<at>massey.ac.nz
‘UHF CB sends audible Ch.22/23 temperature data via Dallas Semi.DS18B20 & Picaxe-08M
‘interfaced (as human readable audio tones) to a Jaycar DC1030 UHF CB 1/2W transceiver.
‘NOTE: ACA/RFS regs.say “UHF CB data Ch.22/23 max. duty cycle just 3 seconds an hour”...
‘Temp range tested from subzero freezer (~-4C) to high 30s C, but OK even higher ~55 C?
‘DS18B20 draws ~9mA,so Ch.4 used to just switch on as needed & thus enhance battery life
‘Many audible ways to pass data of course,but our simple approach suits kids & oldies!
‘Morse involves *#%<at>^! training,while technique here just involves listening & counting
‘Considerable enhancement scope as 08M memory barely half used! Store & forward EEPROM?
‘See David Lincoln’s Vol.2 ‘Expts in Mechatronics’ P.18-25 for number massaging insights
‘Refer circuit layout => www.picaxe.orcon.net.nz/uhfcbds.jpg & program .../uhfcbds.bas
‘ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------‘b0 = direct Celsius temp value read from 3 lead DS18B20 temperature IC
‘b1 = 10s values (heard as longer pulses ) obtained by integer division
‘b2 = units value (shorter beeps up to 9 in value) by isolating remainder
‘b3 = loop multiplier for 10s- thus 20 C will have 2 longer beeps
‘b4 = loop multipier for units- so 17 C will have 1 long & 7 short beeps
‘b5 = -ve temps subzero correcting factor
‘b6 = -ve temps subzero loop multiplier to give “urgent” beeps
‘--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------tempds:
wait 2
‘transmitter “tail” hold on to avoid click confusion with beeps
low 2:low 4
‘ensure ch.2 LED & ch.4 supply (to DS18B20) are both off
sleep 2
‘master delay -alter to suit (units 2.3 sec)for other intervals
high 2: high 4
‘turn on LED/LDR combo & also DS18B20
wait 1
‘transmitter & DS18B20 settling time before reading
sound 0,(95,3,0,3,100,3,0,3,105,3,0,3,110,3) ‘ warble alert pre data arrival
wait 1
‘1 sec pause to allow listener attention for data
readtemp 1,b0
if b0=0 then zero
if b0>128 then subzero
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us on (03)9419 2440.
‘Picaxe 08M (or perhaps 18X) command to read ch.1 DS18B20
‘test if DS18B20 at zero Celsius (water freezing point)
‘test for DS18B20 sensor subzero correction as b0 values >128
b1= b0/10
‘divide original b0 temp to get 10s value
b2= b0//10
‘divide original b0 temp so remainder yields units value
if b0<10 then units
‘bypass tens sounds if temps below 10 Celsius
‘debug
‘suitable spot to note b0 etc variable values when fine tuning?
‘--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------tens:
for b3=1 to b1
sound 0,(100,50,0,50)
‘ longer beeps for 10s. Thus 20 Celsius = 2 long beeps
next b3
‘--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------units:
if b2=0 then tempds
‘units nulling factor if temps are exact multiples of 10C
for b4=1 to b2
sound 0,(100,5,0,50)
‘shorter beeps for units, so 9 C = 9 short beeps
next b4
goto tempds
‘read sensor again
‘--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------zero:
sound 0,(100,500)
‘prolonged tone to indicate zero Celsius
goto tempds
‘read sensor again
‘--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------subzero:
b5=b0-128
‘correcting factor for DS18B20 when reading subzero
for b6=1 to b5
sound 0,(120,5,0,50)
‘more alarming ‘frosty’ beeps,since now below freezing !
next b6
goto tempds
‘read sensor again
siliconchip.com.au
Want cheap, really
bright LEDs?
SC
March 2005 95
Vintage Radio
By RODNEY CHAMPNESS, VK3UG
The Astor AJS – an economy
universal car radio
Designed as an economy model, the Astor
AJS car radio used six valves and could be
used with both positive and negative earth
vehicles. It also employed a vibrator power
supply and was an excellent performer.
A
FRIEND WAS disposing of his
collection of old radios and various bits and pieces and “threw” them
in my direction. Amongst them was
a rather battered old car radio – an
Astor AJS.
Unfortunately, its front panel escutcheon was broken and I initially
had no idea as to how I might fix it.
As a result, the set was put to one side
until a friend suggested that a product
called “Knead It” from Selleys may be
suitable for the repair.
As it turned out, this was just the
shot for remaking the missing section
of the escutcheon but more on that
Looking quite smart – the old Astor AJS car radio with its repainted cabinet
and its fully restored escutcheon.
96 Silicon Chip
later. Now I had no excuse for not
restoring the old Astor radio.
Universal radio
The AJS is a 6-valve, universal,
vibrator-powered car radio that runs
off 12V DC. What do I mean by universal? Well, this set is an economy
model and was designed to fit any car
of the 50s and 60s by being screwed to
the underside of the steel dashboard.
It has an integral speaker, no RF stage
and can be used with both positive and
negative earth vehicles (many English
vehicles in particular used positive
earth at that time).
Sets of this type were a joy to install,
taking under half an hour from the time
the vehicle arrived in the workshop
until it was driven out. I remember fitting car radios with a firm in Adelaide
back in the late 1950s and we could
fit and adjust a car radio in a Holden
FE, complete with a separate speaker
behind the dash, in about 20 minutes.
A really switched on installer could
probably fit one of these AJS models
in under 15 minutes. Try that with the
latest vehicles!
Astor made many different car radio
models from the 1930s until about
1970, when imported car radios sank
that part of the domestic radio manufacturing industry. Along with other
Australian manufacturers, they made
many high-performance receivers that
could pick up stations over long distances. These sets were often limited
only by the effectiveness of the ignition interference suppression and the
amount of noise generated by the highvoltage power lines that run alongside
many of our roads and streets.
Cleaning up
As it came to me, the old Astor
siliconchip.com.au
VALVES
AUDIO HI-FI
AMATEUR RADIO
GUITAR AMPS
INDUSTRIAL
VINTAGE RADIO
We can supply your valve needs,
including high voltage capacitors,
Hammond transformers, chassis,
sockets and valve books.
WE BUY, SELL and TRADE
SSAE DL size for CATALOGUE
This top-chassis view emphasises the compact nature of the unit. Note the
vibrator supply components at the top of the photo.
receiver was in a rather sorry state.
The first step was to give it a thorough clean-up. The case was given a
good scrub in warm soapy water, then
rinsed in clean water and allowed to
dry – I didn’t want it to rust any more
than it already had! I then masked
the escutcheon area and gave the case
several coats of rust inhibiting paint
from a spray can.
That done, I turned my attention
to the broken front panel escutcheon.
As had been suggested, I used Selley’s
“Knead-It” (available from hardware
stores) to make a new piece to replace
the missing section. However, I decided that the “Knead It” might also
need reinforcing, so I obtained a short
length of thin high-tensile wire and ran
it along the area where the escutcheon
would be.
First, a small hole was drilled into
one end of the remaining escutcheon.
One end of the wire was then placed in
the hole and the other end was wedged
under the other end of the escutcheon.
That done, I then glued (with Araldite)
the wire in several spots to the receiver
case, along where the escutcheon
would normally be. Finally, I got out
the “Knead It” and laid it along and
around the wire. I initially found it a
little difficult to knead but warming
up the material makes it more pliable
siliconchip.com.au
and easier to work.
After about half an hour, it had set
and using a knife and file, I was able to
shape the hardened material to match
the profile of the missing section. Once
it had fully hardened, I spray-painted
the whole escutcheon in the nearest
colour available in a spray paint can.
ELECTRONIC
VALVE & TUBE
COMPANY
PO Box 487 Drysdale, Vic 3222
76 Bluff Rd, St Leonards, 3223
Tel: (03) 5257 2297; Fax: (03) 5257 1773
Email: evatco<at>pacific.net.au
www.evatco.com.au
Cleaning the inside
With the outside of the set now looking the part, it was time to tackle the
chassis. The first step was to draw a
diagram of the valve locations, as this
information is not marked anywhere
on the set. That done, the valves were
all removed, cleaned with soapy
water, rinsed and stood on their pins
to dry.
When doing this, you have to be
careful not to rub the type numbers off
the valves. If you do rub a type number
off or damage it, a black fine-pointed
marker pen can be used to remark the
glass envelope. It might not be as neat
as the original marking but a least it
will help prevent the valves getting
mixed up and possibly plugged into
the wrong sockets.
For a car radio, this set was remarkably clean. A small paintbrush was
used to get rid of loose dust and other
debris from the chassis, although an
air-compressor can also be used (with
care) to do this job.
The more “caked-on” muck was removed using a strip of a kitchen scouring pad moistened with kerosene. In
this case, some gentle scrubbing got rid
of most of the muck and the set with
its cleaned valves now looks quite
smart. The more awkward spots on the
chassis are cleaned by using a pencil or
screwdriver to push the scourer back
and forth to get the muck off.
In this set, the dial scale has become
a bit brittle and has yellowed with age.
It was cleaned carefully with soapy
March 2005 97
Photo Gallery: Genalex Model 610
the set on. The power lead and the
fuseholder were in very poor condition. The power lead was replaced
with 3mm automotive cable, while
the badly corroded fuseholder was
replaced with a more modern plastic
unit. This new fuseholder was spliced
into the line using crimp connectors.
I fitted a 5A 3AG fuse although the
circuit diagram says to use a 15A fuse.
That may be OK for the 6V version but
for the 12V version of the receiver, a
5A fuse is perfectly adequate. After
all, the set only draws 3.25A on 12V
according to the service data.
Personally, I like to fit a fuse with
a rating that’s not much higher than
the maximum operating current. If too
high a value is fitted , the set could be
virtually on fire before the fuse blows
– if it blows at all.
Buffer capacitor
Manufactured by the British General Electric Company Ltd, Sydney
in 1939, the Genalex Model 610 was a dual-wave superheterodyne
set that covered both the medium-wave and the 6-18.75MHz shortwave bands. An extra large dial was fitted to the front of the receiver,
while the speaker faced upwards, the sound exiting from the top
of the receiver. The valves fitted were as follows: 6K8-G frequency
changer, 6U7-G IF amplifier, 6G8-G audio amplifier/detector/AVC
rectifier, 6V6-G audio output and 5Z4-G rectifier. Photo: Historical
Radio Society of Australia, Inc.
water and a soft brush and came up
reasonably well. What’s more, the
printing is all still attached to the scale
– a lot better than in some sets where
the printing falls off if you just so much
as look at it (or so it seems).
Before cleaning any dial scale, always test a small area that is hidden by
the escutcheon or is of little value, to
see how firmly the lettering is attached.
The value of a set with a ruined dial
is much lower than a similar set with
a good dial scale.
98 Silicon Chip
Unlike the chassis, the knobs were
extremely grotty. They were thoroughly cleaned in a basin with soapy
water and a nail brush and came up
looking almost like new. However, one
knob is a two-section unit and it had
broken apart. It was glued together
using Araldite and the set was now
looking rather spick and span.
Parts replacement
As is my normal policy, I did all the
routine fault-finding before turning
Astor car radios with vibrator power
supplies had one component that
caused considerable trouble and that
was the 8.2nF (.0082mF) 2kV paper
buffer capacitor across the plates of
the rectifier valve. If this capacitor is
not replaced, the vibrator may break
down after only a few hours of operation. By contrast, some models used
4nF (.004mF) mica buffer capacitors
which gave very few problems.
More information on vibrator power
supplies can be found in the Vintage
Radio columns for September and
October 2003. In addition, the October and November 2004 columns
highlighted the problems that paper
capacitors suffer.
It’s always a good idea to take a good
look at the wiring before replacing any
components in car radios, as there
are usually lots of parts packed into a
relatively small space. As a result, it
will usually take you longer to replace
components in a car radio than in a
normal mantel or console receiver.
Lead dress is often important too,
otherwise you may not get all the parts
in. In addition, the stability of the
receiver may be compromised as car
radios are high gain receivers and the
inputs are not that far away from the
outputs. The best advice is don’t take
any shortcuts with wiring – instead,
rewire it exactly as it was originally.
Note that any earths to chassis
around the vibrator supply should
always be made to the same spot as
before. The wiring around the vibrator supply is often critical, otherwise
siliconchip.com.au
interference (vibrator hash) may be
generated which gets back into the
antenna and thus into the receiver.
However, this isn’t usually a problem
as the whole set is within a metallic
shield and the antenna is mounted
outside the car and connected to the
set via a shielded lead. This shielded
lead also keeps out vehicle-generated
interference (eg, ignition noise).
Another feature used to reduce interference into and out of the receiver
is the “HASH PLATE”, as seen on the
lower left of the circuit. In this receiver,
it consists of a metal strip along the
side of the chassis, near the vibrator
power supply, and is about 80mm long
and 12mm wide.
In practice, it is mounted between
the chassis and another metal plate,
with a strip of insulation on either side
of it so it does not short to either the
chassis or the other earthed plate. The
12V supply comes in at one end of this
plate and out the other end.
In effect, the two plates form a very
low inductance capacitor which helps
prevent interference from the car’s
electrical system getting into the sensitive RF stages of car radios. It also
helps prevent interference from the
vibrator circuit going out along the
power supply line.
Such plates are not used today as
more effective filters are now made,
such as coaxial capacitors, etc.
Finally, I checked all my usual suspect components and found that most
were leaky. These were replaced, along
with the buffer capacitor mentioned
earlier. Basically, those components
numbered (5), (20), (24) and (27) were
replaced.
Powering up
By now, all the critical components
had been checked and all appeared to
be in good working order. Power was
then connected and the set switch on.
No unpleasant smells or noises came
from the receiver and the vibrator was
humming away quite happily.
This was a bonus, as I had expected
that the vibrator might not function as
most had only limited lives. In fact, the
high-tension (HT) voltage was close
to normal, which was very pleasing.
The set itself was showing signs
of life so I put a screwdriver into the
antenna socket and touched the shaft
so that I acted as an aerial. The set then
pulled in stations quite strongly as I
tuned across the band.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the circuit uses six valves but unlike many other car radios of the
era, has no RF stage. Despite this, the set has very good performance.
I checked the front-end alignment
and all appeared to be spot on so I
left it alone. Similarly, I left the IF
alignment alone as the IF transformer
adjustments are usually well and truly
locked in place with sticky core locking compound. It doesn’t mean that
you cannot adjust them but it’s best
March 2005 99
This under-chassis view
of the old Astor AJS
(after restoration) shows
the crowded component
layout. Care is required
when fitting the chassis
back in its case.
to leave them if you can.
In this case, the set’s performance
meant that there was no need to align
it. However, once the receiver is
installed into a vehicle, the antenna
circuit coil will need adjustment at
around 1400kHz for best performance.
In fact, all car radios of this era need
this after installation or service. The
adjustment control is on the back
apron of the receiver, alongside the
antenna socket.
Reassembly
Reinstalling the chassis into the
case proved to be quite a task. That’s
because the set is crammed into the
available space and there is very little
clearance between the chassis components and the cabinet. In practice, I
had to flex the cabinet so that I could
slide the chassis in.
Unfortunately, when I tried the set
out, the oscillator wasn’t working so
there were no signals. I dismantled
it again and tried to find out if any
components had shorted but couldn’t
really find anything wrong.
In the end, I moved a few parts
around to make sure that the clearances
were adequate. The set was working
out of the cabinet so I shoe-horned it
back in and tried it again. This time, it
worked so I had obviously shifted the
right item to stop it from shorting.
This sort of problem is not uncom100 Silicon Chip
mon in tightly-packed units such as
car radios.
Circuit details
The circuit for this receiver is somewhat different to most car radios of
the era. That’s because it has no radio
frequency (RF) stage. Instead, the
received signal feeds straight into the
converter – a 12AN7 (or 6AN7 in the
6V version).
Note that the 12AN7, 6AN7, 6AE8,
6AJ8, 12AH8 and other miniature
valves of the general triode-hexode
family are much quieter converters
than the more popular 6BE6 and other
pentagrid converters. If a 6BE6 had
been used in this position, it’s likely
that the receiver would have been quite
“hissy”, which would have been annoying and would have restricted its
ability to pick up weaker stations.
Because they have only small antennas, car radios are almost always working with weak signals. I have a number
of receivers which use triode-hexode
converters as the first amplifying valve
in the receiver and many of these are
quite good performers on both the
broadcast and shortwave bands. I
cannot say the same about receivers
using a pentagrid converter, although
sets using pentagrids are more common than those with triode-hexode
converters.
The IF amplifier stage in this re-
ceiver is also rather unusual, in that
it has two valves (V2 and V3) between
the two IF transformers. These valves
are both 12BA6s (or 6BA6 for 6V) and
are resistance-capacitance coupled. In
fact, the circuit looks a bit like an audio
stage except that the component values
are different. It uses a 10kW plate resistor, a 47kW grid resistor and a coupling
capacitor of just 50pF.
This coupling method is not particularly efficient at intermediate frequencies (IF) such as 455kHz. However, a
variant of the normal audio amplifier
inter-stage coupling method is used in
valve (and transistor) video amplifier
circuits which will amplify signals
quite effectively to at least 5.5MHz.
It appears that Astor wanted more
gain than could be obtained using just
one 12BA6 but less than that obtained
using two valves in a conventional
2-stage IF amplifier. By adjusting the
values of the coupling components,
the designers were able to tailor the
two stages to get the maximum gain
possible, consistent with stability and
low cost.
Delayed AGC
The signal detector and AGC diode
both have a small delay before they
operate. This means that the receiver
is slightly muted between stations,
as the diode detector has bias on it
due to the fact that V4’s cathode is a
siliconchip.com.au
fraction of a volt positive compared
to the detector plate. This delay also
provides the delayed AGC.
The audio amplifier stages are quite
conventional and similar circuits are
used in many mantel radios. Back bias
is provided for the 12AQ5 by the voltage drop across resistor 48. Negative
feedback is provided from the secondary of the speaker transformer to the
cathode of V4 via resistors 51 and 52.
These two resistors form a voltage divider, so that just the correct amount
of negative feedback is applied. The
audio top-cut filter/IF signal bypass
capacitor (27) is wired from plate to
screen, which reduces the voltage
across this capacitor.
The power supply is a standard
vibrator circuit, as used in almost all
Astor vibrator car radios. Compared
to those used in household vibrator
power supplies, the filtering in this
set is minimal.
To reduce interference from this
supply, the antenna is connected via
a shielded cable as mentioned previously. In addition, the wiring between
various stages within the set has been
kept short to minimise pick-up from
the supply.
A valve rectifier is used to convert
the square wave AC from the vibrator
into DC. The advantage of having a
valve rectifier is that the active power
lead from the set can be connected to
These are the components
that were replaced, including
the 12V power lead.
either +12V or -12V, depending on
whether the car uses positive or negative earthing.
Components 18 and 16 are the buffer
capacitors. As mentioned earlier,
capacitor 18 can be troublesome but
capacitor 16 rarely gives trouble as it
is not highly stressed.
Summary
I must admit that I didn’t expect this
little Astor receiver to be as good as it
really is. Despite being an economy
design, it does what it is expected to
Brand New From
SILICON CHIP
do and performs very well.
On the debit side, it’s not an easy
set to service (like most car radios), as
the parts have to be mounted precisely
or they won’t fit. As an example, the
replacement 8.2nF 2kV buffer capacitor was difficult to fit as the original
was physically smaller.
It may not be the flashiest set around
but I’d certainly give Radio Corporation the thumbs-up for this little set.
It’s a set that’s well worthwhile collecting, if only to show just how good an
SC
economy car radio could be.
160 PAGES
23 CHAPTE
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March 2005 101
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Write to: Ask Silicon Chip, PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097; or
send an email to silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
Tacho connection
for a V8 Falcon
I am just wondering how does a
tachometer for an XC Falcon 4.9l V8
Cleveland work. I am trying to hook
the tacho up from the +ve coil and the
-ve battery and it doesn’t seem to be
working. Any hints? (A. H., Kingaroy,
Qld).
• If the tacho requires an ignition
coil signal, the connection would
be from coil (-) and ground (chassis)
rather than coil (+) and ground. This
is because the primary coil voltage is
developed at the switched end – ie,
the coil connection to the points or
switching transistor.
FM transmitter does
not work in stereo
I have recently built the Micromitter stereo FM transmitter from the
December 2002 issue. It works but not
in stereo. Turning VR3 clockwise or
anti-clockwise adjusts the output volume but I still can’t adjust it for stereo.
Do you know how to get it working in
stereo? (M. C. Kilsyth, Vic).
• Make sure the frequency set by the
four switches (S1-S4) matches that on
your receiver. You must accurately
tune the receiver to the transmitted
frequency.
Check that the phase lock loop is
operating by measuring the voltage at
TP1. Does this stay at a fixed voltage
of around 2V that changes if the frequency is adjusted with the switches?
If not, check the L1 coil winding. The
direction of the winding and height
above the PC board must be the same
as shown in the photo.
Energy meter
offset quandary
I have recently constructed the
Energy Meter (SILICON CHIP, July &
August 2004), the kit being purchased
from Dick Smith Electronics. I was
rewarded with immediate success but
noted an interesting effect with the
offset calibration adjustment.
Firstly, with a charged 9V backup
battery installed and with mains
power and load disconnected, I adjusted the offset setting (+7, I think)
so the display indicated 0.00W. However, when mains power was applied
and still with no load connected, the
display read +0.21W.
Secondly, again with no load connected, I tried zeroing the offset setting
(-15) while mains power was applied.
This time when mains power was
disconnected, the display read -0.21W.
I am assuming there must be a small
amount of AC leakage when mains
power is applied. Is a relatively small
no load offset of 0.21W within the
expected limits for this circuit? (B.
B., vie email).
• Having AC mains connected without a load and having no mains
connected will give different offset
requirements. This is because the
mains voltage introduces signal into
the IC via the voltage input and current inputs.
This was minimised as much as
possible with the balanced inputs.
However, there will always be some
difference. Typically, the Energy Meter
will be operated with power applied
and the battery backup is only used
with blackouts where this is expected
to be short compared to when power
is on.
Multi-picture TV
program monitor
The commercial TV channels are
tending to over-run their evening programs. How about a project that could
produce two, four or six sub-screens
on a standard TV set with selectable
Speed Controller For A Golf Buggy
I’ve just built the 20A version
of the DC Speed Controller, as
described in your June 1997 issue.
This was to replace an electric golf
buggy controller which had ceased
to operate. The unit works well
but I can’t get the motor to stop
completely. The trimpot supplied
varies the speed from close to zero
to full speed but full speed occurs
at just half travel. Can you suggest
a way around this?
Also the motor emits a highpitched sound, due (I imagine) to
the FETs turning on and off. Is there
102 Silicon Chip
any way to filter this out or at least
minimise it? (D. R., via email).
• To get a more realistic adjustment range in your application, try
inserting a 3.3kW resistor in series
with the positive side of VR1 – ie,
the side that connects to pin 14 of
IC1.
To get zero speed, try reducing
the size of the bottom resistor in the
18kW + 4.7kW divider network connected to “MOTOR-”. We suggest
a value of 4.3kW instead of 4.7kW.
You may be able to reduce harmonics in the switching circuit and
therefore the noise from the motor
by placing a small capacitor in
parallel with the 4.3kW resistor.
Start off with about 68nF and
test the operation of the circuit. If
speed control becomes erratic, try
a smaller value.
If the above doesn’t help, try reducing the switching frequency of
the TL494 by increasing the value
of capacitance on pin 5 from 68nF
to 100nF. This may make the noise
a little less irritating. It’s unlikely
that the noise can be completely
eliminated.
siliconchip.com.au
sound. This could be accessed by either a spare channel or AV input. You
could then watch the end of one show
while keeping an eye on the start of
the next show.
It could also be used without sound
to now and again glance at all channels at once while reading, etc to see
if anything worthwhile is on. (J. O.,
via email).
• That’s an intriguing idea but it
would basically mean one TV tuner/
IF strip/video processor and picturein-picture chipset for each channel
you wanted to watch. In the capital
cities, that means at least five channels
and many people would want Pay TV
as well, making it very complex and
expensive.
If you’re that keen to watch TV,
maybe you should just get an array of
small TV sets, each one permanently
tuned to one channel. When one comes
up with something interesting, switch
to your large screen set.
LED ammeter for
battery charger
I am wanting to fit an ammeter to
a car battery charger. I am thinking
of a 10 LED readout to 5A. Have you
published a circuit for this? Could the
25A car LED ammeter (SILICON CHIP,
January 1999) be altered to do this?
(G. J., Lara, Vic).
• The 25A LED meter can be used in
your application without any modification. All you have to do is have it
monitor a suitably low resistance value
in series with the battery charger. You
can then calibrate it to display 5A.
Mind you, since it will only ever read
positive current (ie, charge), only five
LEDs of the display will be involved.
If you want to use the 10 LEDs, then
you will need to remove the offset trim
circuitry involving VR2.
Eprom programmer
doesn’t work
I have assembled the Windowsbased Eprom Programmer (SILICON
CHIP, November & December 2002,
February 2003) and carried out the
voltage and frequency checks. I tested
the software to toggle the Load PGM*
Pulse Duration LED. That works. Everything is OK but I am unable to get a
valid EPROM read or write.
I set the read for an ST 27C256 using
the preconfigured settings provided.
siliconchip.com.au
Remote Control Volume Via CD Player
I recently purchased a Remote
Volume Control kit (SILICON CHIP,
June 2002) for my hifi amplifier.
Your instructions state that it should
work with any Philips-based remote
control. I also purchased a suitable
multi-item remote, recommended
by the kit supplier (Altronics) and
the default PC board (with no links)
should work with a TV code. The
red Ack LED flashes but the potentiometer does not move.
Ideally, I want to use the volume
buttons on my CD player’s remote
control. For this, I need to insert a
link between pin 14 and ground
(LK2). It is nearly impossible to
place a solder bridge across this
point, so I decided to fit a small
wire link to a point on the ground
track. With this link in place, the
PC board fails to acknowledge any
remote control command, regardless of code.
My CD player is a Marantz (formerly part of Philips) so am pretty
sure it should work. Can you please
suggest anything I could try or
may have done wrong? (M. G., via
email).
• First of all, the Remote Volume
All I get on the read is FF on all addresses. I know for a fact that the chip
contains information because it is used
to operate a machine. What could be
wrong with the programmer? (D. C.,
Christchurch, NZ).
• It sounds as if you may have either
a faulty solder joint on the programmer
board or a faulty chip. Either that, or
your PC’s printer port is not allowing
the software to read data correctly.
We suggest that you try checking
the clock frequency test points with a
scope, to make sure that the clock circuitry is working correctly. You could
also try checking at pin 10 of IC18
(74HC02) to make sure that it pulses
low during each read operation.
Fuse blowing
is a warning
I am having a problem with my car
audio connections. For some reason,
my power wire keeps burning fuses
so I upgraded to a 100A fuse. Now
Control will not work with the Marantz remote – you must use a universal remote, which can also be set
up to control your CD player.
The linking options on the motorised pot volume control are to
select whether you want this item
to be controlled by either the TV,
CD, SAT1 or SAT2 selection on the
remote. The alternatives are there so
that there will not be a clash with
the codes if, say, you have a TV, CD
player or satellite receiver that also
operates on one of these codes.
The idea is to select either the TV,
CD, SAT1 or SAT2 code that does
not affect other equipment. So the
link installed for your CD player is
incorrect. Select either the SAT or
TV codes.
We did specify the codes that will
work using the Altronics handheld
unit. These are 651 for CD and 424
and 425 for Sat1 and Sat2.
Try to get the pot working with
these codes and the correct link. If
this does not work, check your soldering for shorts between connections. Also, is there supply between
pins 5 and 14 of IC1? Is there 5V
between pins 2 & 3 of IRD1?
the fuses on my amplifier are blowing. What gives? (M. R., Los Fresnos,
California, USA).
• Possibly the loudspeaker impedance is too low for your audio amplifier or maybe you have an intermittent
short in one of your speaker lines.
Always assume that fuse blowing
indicates a fault.
PowerUp won’t
work with STB
I purchased the Auto PowerUP (SILICHIP, July 2003) and finally got it
to work. I want to use it to power a
240AC cooling fan when my Foxtel and/
or HDTV set-top boxes are turned on.
However, I cannot get the adjustment
on VR1 right; it is very sensitive!
With careful adjustment, I can get it
to switch the slave on (fan) but when
the STBs are turned off (standby), the
relay cycles continuously at six seconds on and three seconds off.
The HDTV STB is 8W on Standby
CON
March 2005 103
75MHz NBFM Receiver For Fire Service
I am a volunteer with the local
fire department and although I have
been issued a handheld radio for
communication on the fire service
frequencies, I would prefer to have
a simple fixed receiver for listening
while I am at home when the RT is
off (thus saving battery life).
FM transmitters are a dime a
dozen (though all targeted at the
88MHz-108MHz FM band) but FM
receivers are harder to come by. I
would very much appreciate it if
you could point me in the right
direction to build a narrow-band
FM receiver for the 75MHz band.
I know I could purchase a scanner
but I like to build things myself and
and 22W on, while the Foxtel PACE
box pulls 25W. The unit works well
with a heavier current draw but can’t
handle the lower power differential.
Any suggestions would be much appreciated. (J. D., via email).
• For more sensitivity, the 470kW
resistor should be made larger, however, this is probably not going to help
as there will be noise triggering the
circuit. Instead, it may be better to
increase the number of turns on the
former of L1 former. You could place
on 80 or more turns to double the
sensitivity for detecting low current
appliances.
Multiple power
supplies in parallel
I was wondering if it was possible
to connect multiple power supplies
together to create a single high current
supply? I have four spare notebook
computer switchmode power supplies, all able to supply 20VDC <at>
4.5A and was wondering if there was
a way of connecting them all together
to provide a single output with 18A
ability.
Once I get to that stage I would throw
in a regulator and filter circuit to make
a cheap and very small 13.8V <at> 20A
power supply to power automotive
audio equipment from the mains. (S.
R., via email).
• It is not really practical because
unless they each put out exactly the
104 Silicon Chip
scanners are still expensive.
The requirements are very
straightforward, though I suspect,
not simple: receive narrow FM on
75.xxxx MHz (the actual frequency
depends on which repeater you use)
and be stable enough that it doesn’t
drift off frequency. The laws in New
Zealand allow listening to these
frequencies, so there should be no
legal problem with this project. (N.
Z., via email).
• We described a narrow-band FM
receiver circuit in the February &
March 1989 issues. While it was
intended for the 2-metre band, it
should be easy to change the tuning
to cover the band you desire.
same DC voltage and have the same
output impedance, they will not share
the load equally.
Guitar inputs for
preamplifier
Regarding the Balanced Microphone
Preamp in the August 2004 issue
which I want to use as a guitar preamp,
could I add a guitar input or change the
balanced input? How I could change
the circuit to achieve this? (B. G., via
email).
• The balanced microphone preamplifier is not suitable for guitar use.
Instead, you should use the Direct
Injection Box from the August 2001
issue. This catered for guitar and had
the same features, such as equaliser
and powering options.
Balanced mic preamp
for amateur use
I wish to use your Balanced Microphone Preamp (SILICON CHIP, August
2004) design for amateur radio transceivers and was wondering how to
move the centre frequencies of the
equaliser to better suit HF radio communications. Some commercial designs
have 230Hz and 2.3kHz as centre frequencies. (P. N., Cairns, Qld).
• The rolloff frequency of the bass
control can be lifted to around 230Hz
by decreasing the 15nF capacitor
across VR2 to 6.8nF. The mid fre-
quency can be shifted from 1kHz to
2.3kHz by decreasing the 2.7nF capacitor across VR3 to 1.2nF and decreasing
the 12nF at VR3’s wiper to 5.6nF.
Dummy C-cell
battery wanted
In the Circuit Notebook pages for December 2001 you mention a “dummy
battery.” I have an exercise bike that
requires four C-cell batteries but I
would like to power it with an AC to DC
multi-voltage adapter instead (which is
easier and more economical).
However, I can’t find C-cell sized
dummy batteries that I could connect
to the AC to DC multi-voltage adapter.
What might you suggest? (R. S., Rochester, NY, USA).
• While we do refer to a dummy
battery in the article, in your case the
simplest approach would be to just
wire your multi-voltage adaptor (we
call ’em plugpacks) directly to the
appropriate contacts in the battery
compartment. Either that or install
a suitable socket on the bike battery
container so that you easily plug in
your adapter.
Incidentally, we haven’t seen a
dummy battery recently but you could
make your own.
Acoustic feedback
with Champ
I recently bought a Pre-Champ preamplifier kit (SILICON CHIP, July 1994)
from Jaycar to use with an electret
microphone and a Champ amplifier
(February 1994). However, despite
paying attention to the connections,
the results are not satisfactory.
If using a 12V source and an electret
mic insert at the input, plus a pair of
headsets in series at the output, I get
good sound. However, when I connect
the output of the preamplifier to the
input of the Champ amplifier, which
is connected to an 8-ohm speaker, the
whole system goes into oscillation and
produces a high pitch squeal. I tried
another amplifier (50W) and got the
same result.
Please let me know what I should
do to get the system working. (L. F.
Auckland, NZ).
• It sounds as though you have acoustic feedback from the speaker to the
electret microphone – they must be
kept well separated, as in any public
address system.
siliconchip.com.au
Notes & Errata
PICAXE-Controlled Battery Charger, September 2004 (Circuit Notebook): the charger works as described if the battery has not been
discharged below the normal
terminal voltage range. However,
the author has recently modified
the program to detect and charge
batteries that have been discharged
down to 2V.
This update can be downloaded
from the SILICON CHIP website – see
www.siliconchip.com.au
Note that the new program ignores input 3 (pin 4), so if building
the circuit from scratch, all components associated with this input can
be omitted.
SMS Controller, October & November 2004: If a large SMS message
is present in the “inbox” of the
phone connected to the controller,
it may fail to initialise. Instead, the
“Comms Error” LED will come on
for six seconds, go out for two seconds, then come on again, with the
cycle repeating indefinitely.
This situation is unlikely to occur in normal operation if the controller’s phone number has never
been used for any other purpose.
However, if the phone number is
known to others, there is always
the possibility of receiving large,
unsolicited messages.
Therefore, we’ve modified the microcontroller program so that it can
successfully delete even the largest
messages. An update is available
from the download section of the
SILICON CHIP website.
Updated controllers can be
identified by their response to the
“COUNT” command – a reply of
“v=01.01” indicates the latest program version.
Note that this error condition can
be cleared manually by deleting any
messages in the inbox.
Second, some constructors have
reported a higher voltage than
specified when measuring the
phone power supply output with
the 10W test resistor in place. This
is due mainly to tolerances in the
MC34063 and the 1.5W resistors
and will result in a slightly higher
charging current.
If your measurement is 4.7V or
less, it is within operating parameters and can be safely used as is.
Alternatively, you can reduce the
voltage to specified levels (3.6V 3.9V) by replacing one of the 1.5W
resistors with 1.8W.
We’ve received numerous reports
of the controller not accepting commands after programming. In all
cases, this has been due to the use
of spaces after command words.
As shown in the various examples
and described in detail in the text,
spaces must not be used immediately after commands (see page 77
of the November 2004 issue). This
is not a bug!
V8 Doorbell, January 2005: further
research has enabled us to improve
the characteristic “V8” sound. Some
changes to the circuit are involved
plus revised software.
First, the resistor changes are:
(1). The eight 100kW resistors connecting to the RB0 to RB2, RA3
and RB4 to RB7 outputs of IC1 are
changed to 2.2kW. This boosts the
cylinder output levels.
(2). The 47kW resistor between pins
6 & 7 of IC3b is changed to 2.2kW.
This reduces the gain of IC3b to
compensate for the added cylinder
output signal.
(3). The 1kW resistor at pin 3 of IC3a
is changed to 10kW to increase the
engine ambient noise level.
(4). The 100kW resistor feeding
pin 5 of IC4 from the filtered PWM
signal connecting to the top of VR2
is changed to 8.2kW to increase the
RPM range.
In addition, it is recommended
that the 10mF capacitor in series
with the 1kW resistor at pin 2 of
IC5a be connected to ground rather
than to the 5V rail.
In addition, capacitor changes
have been made to the filter components connecting between IC2b and
IC2a. These are larger to provide a
smoother sound:
(1). The 68nF capacitor at the drain
of Q1 is changed to 220nF;
(2). The 56nF capacitor at the drain
of Q2 is changed to 100nF;
(3). The 1nF capacitor connecting
between ground and the filter is
changed to 100nF.
Finally, the software changes
alter the revving response and
rev build up and decay rates. The
revised software is designated ENGINE3.hex and is available on the
SILICON CHIP website.
WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage.
All such projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high
voltage wiring should be carried out according to the instructions in the articles. When working on these projects
use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with mains AC voltages or high voltage
DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages or other high voltages, you are
advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability for damages should
anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of SILICON CHIP magazine.
Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any liability
for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also
disclaims any liability for projects which are used in such a way as to infringe relevant government regulations
and by-laws.
Advertisers are warned that they are responsible for the content of all advertisements and that they must conform to the Trade Practices Act 1974 or as subsequently amended and to any governmental regulations which are
applicable.
siliconchip.com.au
March 2005 105
ALL S ILICON C HIP SUBSCRIBERS – PRINT,
OR BOTH – AUTOMATICALLY QUALIFY FOR A
REFERENCE $ave 10%ONLINE
DISCOUNT ON ALL BOOK OR PARTSHOP PURCHASES.
CHIP BOOKSHOP 10% (Does not apply to subscriptions)
SILICON
For the latest titles and information, please refer to our website books page: www.siliconchip.com.au/Shop/Books
PIC MICROCONTROLLERS: know it all
SELF ON AUDIO
Multiple authors $85.00
The best of subjects Newnes authors have written over the past few years,
combined in a one-stop maxi reference. Covers introduction to PICs and their
programming in Assembly, PICBASIC, MBASIC & C. 900+ pages.
PROGRAMMING and CUSTOMIZING THE
PICAXE By David Lincoln (2nd Ed, 2011) $65.00*
A great aid when wrestling with applications for the PICAXE
See
series of microcontrollers, at beginner, intermediate and
Review
April
advanced levels. Every electronics class, school and library should have a
copy, along with anyone who works with PICAXEs. 300 pages in paperback. 2011
PIC IN PRACTICE
by D W Smith. 2nd Edition - published 2006 $60.00*
Based on popular short courses on the PIC, for professionals, students
and teachers. Can be used at a variety of levels. An ideal introduction to the
world of microcontrollers. 255 pages in paperback.
PIC MICROCONTROLLER – your personal introductory course By John Morton 3rd edition 2005. $60.00*
A unique and practical guide to getting up and running with the PIC. It assumes no knowledge of microcontrollers – ideal introduction for students,
teachers, technicians and electronics enthusiasts. Revised 3rd edition focuses entirely
on re-programmable flash PICs such as 16F54, 16F84 12F508 and 12F675. 226 pages
in paperback.
by Douglas Self 2nd Edition 2006 $69.00*
A collection of 35 classic magazine articles offering a dependable methodology for designing audio power amplifiers to improve performance at every
point without significantly increasing cost. Includes compressors/limiters,
hybrid bipolar/FET amps, electronic switching and more. 467 pages in paperback.
SMALL SIGNAL AUDIO DESIGN
By Douglas Self – First Edition 2010 $95.00*
The latest from the Guru of audio. Explains audio concepts in easy-to-understand language with plenty of examples and reasoning. Inspiration for audio
designers, superb background for audio enthusiasts and especially where it comes to
component peculiarities and limitations. Expensive? Yes. Value for money? YES! Highly
recommended. 558 pages in paperback.
AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN HANDBOOK
by Douglas Self – 5th Edition 2009 $85.00*
"The Bible" on audio power amplifiers. Many revisions and
updates to the previous edition and now has an extra three
chapters covering Class XD, Power Amp Input Systems and
Input Processing and Auxiliarly Subsystems. Not cheap and not a book
for the beginner but if you want the best reference on Audio Power Amps,
you want this one! 463 pages in paperback.
DVD PLAYERS AND DRIVES
by K.F. Ibrahim. Published 2003. $71.00*
OP AMPS FOR EVERYONE
By Bruce Carter – 4th Edition 2013 $83.00*
This is the bible for anyone designing op amp circuits and you don't
have to be an engineer to get the most out of it. It is written in simple language
but gives lots of in-depth info, bridging the gap between the theoretical and the
practical. 281 pages,
A guide to DVD technology and applications, with particular focus
on design issues and pitfalls, maintenance and repair. Ideal for
engineers, technicians, students of consumer electronics and
sales and installation staff. 319 pages in paperback.
by Sanjaya Maniktala, Published April 2012. $83.00
Thoroughly revised! The most comprehensive study available of theoretical and practical aspects of controlling and measuring
EMI in switching power supplies.
Subtitled Exploring the PIC32, a Microchip insider tells all on this powerful
PIC! Focuses on examples and exercises that show how to solve common,
real-world design problems quickly. Includes handy checklists. FREE CD-ROM includes
source code in C, the Microchip C30 compiler, and MPLAB SIM. 400 pages paperback.
By Garry Cratt – Latest (7th) Edition 2008 $49.00
Written in Australia, for Australian conditions by one of Australia's foremost
satellite TV experts. If there is anything you wanted to know about setting up
a satellite TV system, (including what you can't do!) it's sure to be covered
in this 176-page paperback book.
See
Review
Feb
2004
SWITCHING POWER SUPPLIES A-Z
PROGRAMMING 32-bit MICROCONTROLLERS
IN C By Luci di Jasio (2008) $79.00*
PRACTICAL GUIDE TO SATELLITE TV
See
Review
March
2010
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES
By Austin Hughes & Bill Drury - 4th edition 2013 $59.00*
This is a very easy to read book with very little mathematics or
formulas. It covers the basics of all the main motor types, DC
permanent magnet and wound field, AC induction and steppers and
gives a very good description of how speed control circuits work with these
motors. Soft covers, 444 pages.
NEWNES GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY
By KF Ibrahim 4th Edition (Published 2007) $49.00
It's back! Provides a full and comprehensive coverage of video and television technology including HDTV and DVD. Starts with fundamentals so is
ideal for students but covers in-depth technologies such as Blu-ray, DLP,
Digital TV, etc so is also perfect for engineers. 600+ pages in paperback.
RF CIRCUIT DESIGN
by Chris Bowick, Second Edition, 2008. $63.00*
The classic RF circuit design book. RF circuit design is now more important
that ever in the wireless world. In most of the wireless devices that we use
there is an RF component – this book tells how to design and integrate in a
very practical fashion. 244 pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL RF HANDBOOK
AC MACHINES
By Jim Lowe Published 2006 $66.00*
Applicable to Australian trades-level courses including NE10 AC Machines,
NE12 Synchronous Machines and the AC part of NE30 Electric Motor
Control and Protection. Covering polyphase induction motors, singlephase motors, synchronous machines and polyphase motor starting. 160
pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL VARIABLE SPEED DRIVES &
POWER ELECTRONICS
Se
e
by Malcolm Barnes. 1st Ed, Feb 2003. $73.00* Review
An essential reference for engineers and anyone who wishes
to design or use variable speed drives for induction motors.
286 pages in soft cover.
Feb
2003
BUILD YOUR OWN ELECTRIC MOTORCYCLE
by Carl Vogel. Published 2009. $40.00*
by Ian Hickman. 4th edition 2007 $61.00*
Alternative fuel expert Carl Vogel gives you a hands-on guide with
A guide to RF design for engineers, technicians, students and enthusiasts.
the latest technical information and easy-to-follow instructions
Covers key topics in RF: analog design principles, transmission lines,
for building a two-wheeled electric vehicle – from a streamlined
couplers, transformers, amplifiers, oscillators, modulation, transmitters and
scooter to a full-sized motorcycle. 384 pages in soft cover.
receivers, propagation and antennas. 279 pages in paperback.
*NOTE: ALL PRICES ARE PLUS P&P – AUSTRALIA ONLY: $10.00 per order; NZ – $AU12.00 PER BOOK; REST OF WORLD $AU18.00 PER BOOK
To
Place
Your
Order:
INTERNET (24/7)
PAYPAL (24/7)
eMAIL (24/7)
www.siliconchip.
com.au/Shop/Books
Use your PayPal account
silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
with order & credit card details
FAX (24/7)
MAIL (24/7)
Your order and card details to Your order to PO Box 139
Collaroy NSW 2097
(02) 9939 2648 with all details
PHONE – (9-5, Mon-Fri)
Call (02) 9939 3295 with
with order & credit card details
You can also order and pay for books by cheque/money order (Mail Only). Make cheques payable to Silicon Chip Publications.
ALL TITLES SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY. PRICES VALID FOR MONTH OF MAGAZINE ISSUE ONLY. ALL PRICES INCLUDE GST
ALL S ILICON C HIP SUBSCRIBERS – PRINT,
OR BOTH – AUTOMATICALLY QUALIFY FOR A
REFERENCE $ave 10%ONLINE
DISCOUNT ON ALL BOOK OR PARTSHOP PURCHASES.
CHIP BOOKSHOP 10% (Does not apply to subscriptions)
SILICON
For the latest titles and information, please refer to our website books page: www.siliconchip.com.au/Shop/Books
PIC MICROCONTROLLERS: know it all
SELF ON AUDIO
Multiple authors $85.00
The best of subjects Newnes authors have written over the past few years,
combined in a one-stop maxi reference. Covers introduction to PICs and their
programming in Assembly, PICBASIC, MBASIC & C. 900+ pages.
PROGRAMMING and CUSTOMIZING THE
PICAXE By David Lincoln (2nd Ed, 2011) $65.00*
A great aid when wrestling with applications for the PICAXE
See
series of microcontrollers, at beginner, intermediate and
Review
April
advanced levels. Every electronics class, school and library should have a
copy, along with anyone who works with PICAXEs. 300 pages in paperback. 2011
PIC IN PRACTICE
by D W Smith. 2nd Edition - published 2006 $60.00*
Based on popular short courses on the PIC, for professionals, students
and teachers. Can be used at a variety of levels. An ideal introduction to the
world of microcontrollers. 255 pages in paperback.
PIC MICROCONTROLLER – your personal introductory course By John Morton 3rd edition 2005. $60.00*
A unique and practical guide to getting up and running with the PIC. It assumes no knowledge of microcontrollers – ideal introduction for students,
teachers, technicians and electronics enthusiasts. Revised 3rd edition focuses entirely
on re-programmable flash PICs such as 16F54, 16F84 12F508 and 12F675. 226 pages
in paperback.
by Douglas Self 2nd Edition 2006 $69.00*
A collection of 35 classic magazine articles offering a dependable methodology for designing audio power amplifiers to improve performance at every
point without significantly increasing cost. Includes compressors/limiters,
hybrid bipolar/FET amps, electronic switching and more. 467 pages in paperback.
SMALL SIGNAL AUDIO DESIGN
By Douglas Self – First Edition 2010 $95.00*
The latest from the Guru of audio. Explains audio concepts in easy-to-understand language with plenty of examples and reasoning. Inspiration for audio
designers, superb background for audio enthusiasts and especially where it comes to
component peculiarities and limitations. Expensive? Yes. Value for money? YES! Highly
recommended. 558 pages in paperback.
AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER DESIGN HANDBOOK
by Douglas Self – 5th Edition 2009 $85.00*
"The Bible" on audio power amplifiers. Many revisions and
updates to the previous edition and now has an extra three
chapters covering Class XD, Power Amp Input Systems and
Input Processing and Auxiliarly Subsystems. Not cheap and not a book
for the beginner but if you want the best reference on Audio Power Amps,
you want this one! 463 pages in paperback.
DVD PLAYERS AND DRIVES
by K.F. Ibrahim. Published 2003. $71.00*
OP AMPS FOR EVERYONE
By Bruce Carter – 4th Edition 2013 $83.00*
This is the bible for anyone designing op amp circuits and you don't
have to be an engineer to get the most out of it. It is written in simple language
but gives lots of in-depth info, bridging the gap between the theoretical and the
practical. 281 pages,
A guide to DVD technology and applications, with particular focus
on design issues and pitfalls, maintenance and repair. Ideal for
engineers, technicians, students of consumer electronics and
sales and installation staff. 319 pages in paperback.
by Sanjaya Maniktala, Published April 2012. $83.00
Thoroughly revised! The most comprehensive study available of theoretical and practical aspects of controlling and measuring
EMI in switching power supplies.
Subtitled Exploring the PIC32, a Microchip insider tells all on this powerful
PIC! Focuses on examples and exercises that show how to solve common,
real-world design problems quickly. Includes handy checklists. FREE CD-ROM includes
source code in C, the Microchip C30 compiler, and MPLAB SIM. 400 pages paperback.
By Garry Cratt – Latest (7th) Edition 2008 $49.00
Written in Australia, for Australian conditions by one of Australia's foremost
satellite TV experts. If there is anything you wanted to know about setting up
a satellite TV system, (including what you can't do!) it's sure to be covered
in this 176-page paperback book.
See
Review
Feb
2004
SWITCHING POWER SUPPLIES A-Z
PROGRAMMING 32-bit MICROCONTROLLERS
IN C By Luci di Jasio (2008) $79.00*
PRACTICAL GUIDE TO SATELLITE TV
See
Review
March
2010
ELECTRIC MOTORS AND DRIVES
By Austin Hughes & Bill Drury - 4th edition 2013 $59.00*
This is a very easy to read book with very little mathematics or
formulas. It covers the basics of all the main motor types, DC
permanent magnet and wound field, AC induction and steppers and
gives a very good description of how speed control circuits work with these
motors. Soft covers, 444 pages.
NEWNES GUIDE TO TV & VIDEO TECHNOLOGY
By KF Ibrahim 4th Edition (Published 2007) $49.00
It's back! Provides a full and comprehensive coverage of video and television technology including HDTV and DVD. Starts with fundamentals so is
ideal for students but covers in-depth technologies such as Blu-ray, DLP,
Digital TV, etc so is also perfect for engineers. 600+ pages in paperback.
RF CIRCUIT DESIGN
by Chris Bowick, Second Edition, 2008. $63.00*
The classic RF circuit design book. RF circuit design is now more important
that ever in the wireless world. In most of the wireless devices that we use
there is an RF component – this book tells how to design and integrate in a
very practical fashion. 244 pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL RF HANDBOOK
AC MACHINES
By Jim Lowe Published 2006 $66.00*
Applicable to Australian trades-level courses including NE10 AC Machines,
NE12 Synchronous Machines and the AC part of NE30 Electric Motor
Control and Protection. Covering polyphase induction motors, singlephase motors, synchronous machines and polyphase motor starting. 160
pages in paperback.
PRACTICAL VARIABLE SPEED DRIVES &
POWER ELECTRONICS
Se
e
by Malcolm Barnes. 1st Ed, Feb 2003. $73.00* Review
An essential reference for engineers and anyone who wishes
to design or use variable speed drives for induction motors.
286 pages in soft cover.
Feb
2003
BUILD YOUR OWN ELECTRIC MOTORCYCLE
by Carl Vogel. Published 2009. $40.00*
by Ian Hickman. 4th edition 2007 $61.00*
Alternative fuel expert Carl Vogel gives you a hands-on guide with
A guide to RF design for engineers, technicians, students and enthusiasts.
the latest technical information and easy-to-follow instructions
Covers key topics in RF: analog design principles, transmission lines,
for building a two-wheeled electric vehicle – from a streamlined
couplers, transformers, amplifiers, oscillators, modulation, transmitters and
scooter to a full-sized motorcycle. 384 pages in soft cover.
receivers, propagation and antennas. 279 pages in paperback.
*NOTE: ALL PRICES ARE PLUS P&P – AUSTRALIA ONLY: $10.00 per order; NZ – $AU12.00 PER BOOK; REST OF WORLD $AU18.00 PER BOOK
To
Place
Your
Order:
INTERNET (24/7)
PAYPAL (24/7)
eMAIL (24/7)
www.siliconchip.
com.au/Shop/Books
Use your PayPal account
silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
with order & credit card details
FAX (24/7)
MAIL (24/7)
Your order and card details to Your order to PO Box 139
Collaroy NSW 2097
(02) 9939 2648 with all details
PHONE – (9-5, Mon-Fri)
Call (02) 9939 3295 with
with order & credit card details
You can also order and pay for books by cheque/money order (Mail Only). Make cheques payable to Silicon Chip Publications.
ALL TITLES SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY. PRICES VALID FOR MONTH OF MAGAZINE ISSUE ONLY. ALL PRICES INCLUDE GST
MARKET CENTRE
Cash in your surplus gear. Advertise it here in Silicon Chip.
CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING RATES
Advertising rates for this page: Classified ads: $22.00 (incl. GST) for up to 20
words plus 66 cents for each additional word. Display ads: $36.00 (incl. GST) per
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To run your classified ad, print it clearly in the space below or on a separate
sheet of paper, fill out the form & send it with your cheque or credit card details
to: Silicon Chip Classifieds, PO Box 139, Collaroy, NSW 2097. Alternatively, fax
the details to (02) 9979 6503 or send an email to silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
Taxation Invoice ABN 49 003 205 490
_____________ _____________ _____________ _____________ _____________
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Bankcard Visa Card Master Card
Card No.
Signature__________________________ Card expiry date______/______
Name _____________________________________________________
Street _____________________________________________________
Suburb/town ___________________________ Postcode______________
Phone:_____________ Fax:_____________ Email:__________________
108 Silicon Chip
FOR SALE
PICAXE PROJECT PCB KIT for hobbyist and home automation, POWERMATE
energy meter, thermochron temperature
logger, ibutton accessories, ULN2803A
driver, Luxeon Star LEDs, LED optics.
info<at>techbits.com.au
www.techbits.com.au
ELECTRONIC ENGINEERING CONSULTANTS: Electronic Hardware and
Embedded Software for Industrial Control and Commercial Communications.
www.furzy.com.au
Penguin temperature and humidity
dataloggers
N1500 universal process indicator.
Displays thermocouple, RTD, 4-20mA
and 0-5V readings
Labjack USB Data Acquisition Module features 8 12bit analog inputs, 20
digital I/O, 2 analog outputs and high
speed counter. Free software, Labview
driver and ActiveX component.
UHF 433MHz and Infra Red remote
relay controller cards
Serial and Parallel port relay controller cards
Pump and Alarm Controller card.
Programmers for Atmel and PIC microcontrollers.
sPlan Windows electronic schematic
software and Sprint Layout Windows
PCB layout software are feature packed
but low in price
DAS005 Parallel Port Data Acquisition Module features 8 12bit Analog
inputs, 4 Digital I/Ps & 4 Digital O/Ps.
Free windows software and source code.
Pixel Programmable Controller with
4 analog inputs, 8 digital inputs and 8
relay outputs. Uses a 28X Picaxe. Programmed in basic or Flow chart.
2, 4 & 8 Relay Cards suitable for TTL
and Open Collector Outputs
Stepper Motor and Servo Motor controller kits
Switch Mode and Linear Power Supplies and DC-DC converters.
Full details and credit card ordering
available at www.oceancontrols.
com.au
siliconchip.com.au
2.4 GHz WiFi Antennas
New New New
Foam surrounds,voice coils,cones and more
Original parts for Dynaudio,Tannoy and others
Expert speaker repairs – 20 years experience
Australian agents for
products
Trade welcome – email for your user ID
Phone (03) 9647 7000
Web:
Email:
Tel:
Fax:
Also Available
Panel Antennas
Ceiling Antennas
Low Loss 50 ohm cable
Connectors
Pigtails
Access Points
Masts
Amplifiers
Power over Ethernet
External Enclosures
www.freenet-antennas.com
sales<at>freenet-antennas.com
+61 (8) 9319 3275
+61 (8) 9319 1720
speakerbits.com.au
TAIG MACHINERY
Micro Mini Lathes and Mills
From $489.00
SUPERBRIGHT LEDS, LED testers,
nixie tubes and nixie clock kits. New
6-digit nixie clock/panel meter kit coming soon! Lots of other neat stuff, and
always more items being added. www.
ledsales.com.au
WEATHER STATIONS: windspeed &
direction, inside temperature, outside
temperature & windchill. Records highs
& lows with time and date as they occur.
Optional rainfall and PC interface. Used
by government departments, farmers,
pilots and weather enthusiasts. Other
models with barometric pressure, humidity, dew point, solar radiation, UV,
siliconchip.com.au
•
•
•
•
•
6 Channels
10kHz frequency separation
Size: 55 x 23 x 20mm
Weight: 25gm
Modular Construction
Price: $A129.50 with crystal
Electronics
Stepper motors: 200 oz in $89.00, 330 oz in $110.00
Digital verniers: 150mm $55.00, 200mm $65.00
59 Gilmore Crescent
(02) 6281 5660
Garran ACT 2605
0412269707
RCS RADIO/DESIGN is at 41 Arlewis
St, Chester Hill 2162, NSW Australia
and has all the published PC boards
from SC, EA, ETI, HE, AEM & others.
Ph (02) 9738 0330. sales<at>rcsradio.
com.au, www.rcsradio.com.au
USB KITS: GPIB Interface, Thermostat
Tester, LCD Module Interface, Stepper Motor Controller, PIO Interface,
DTMF Transceiver, Thermometer, DDS
HF Generator, Compass, 4 Channel
Voltmeter, I/O Relay Card, USB via
LabVIEW. Also available: Digital Oscilloscope, Temperature Loggers, VHF
Receivers and USB ActiveX (and USBDOS.exe file) to control our kits from
your own application. www.ar.com.
au/~softmark
Mark22-SM
Slimline Mini FM R/C Receiver
PO Box 580, Riverwood, NSW 2210.
Ph/Fax (02) 9533 3517
email: youngbob<at>silvertone.com.au
Website: www.silvertone.com.au
ELNEC IC PROGRAMMERS
leaf wetness, etc. Just phone, fax or write
for our FREE catalog and price list. Eco
Watch phone: (03) 9761 7040; fax: (03)
9761 7050; Unit 5, 17 Southfork Drive,
Kilsyth, Vic. 3137. ABN 63 006 399 480.
Mega28 STAMP STARTER KIT, 4k
BASCOM Compiler, MicroGUI-L, PSU,
LEDs, Switches, Dual 7Seg, 830 Breadboard, introductory price $26 www.
rhombus-tek.com
PCBs MADE, ONE OR MANY. Any
format, hobbyists welcome. Sesame
Electronics Phone (02) 9593 1025.
sesame<at>sesame.com.au
www.sesame.com.au
ImageCraft C Compilers: 32-bit
Windows IDE and compiler. For AVR,
68HC08, 68HC11, 68HC12, 68HC16.
from $330.00
Atmel Flash CPU Programmer: Handles the 89Cx051, 89C5x, 89Sxx in
both DIP and PLCC44 and some AVR’s,
most 8-pin EEPROMS. Includes socket
for serial ISP cable. $220, $11 p&p.
SOIC adaptors: 20 pin $132.00, 14 pin
$126.50, 8 pin $121.00.
Universal and
specialised models
High quality
Realistic prices
Large range of adaptors
Free regular software updates
Windows 95/98/Me/NT/2k/XP
GRANTRONICS PTY LTD
PO Box 275, Wentworthville. 2145.
Ph: 02 9896 7150
www.grantronics.com.au
Full details on web site. Credit cards
accepted.
GRANTRONICS PTY LTD, PO Box 275,
Wentworthville 2145. (02) 9896 7150 or
http://www.grantronics.com.au
S-Video . . . Video . . . Audio . . . VGA
distribution amps, splitters, standards
converters, tbc’s, switchers, cables, etc,
& price list: www.questronix.com.au
CLUBS
THE PIC CLUB meets 6pm, 2nd
Tuesday each month. We discuss PIC
programming and project design. 1st
Floor, Sydney Mechanics School of
Arts, 280 Pitt Street, Sydney. Phone:
9593 1025.
March 2005 109
110 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Do You Eat, Breathe and Sleep TECHNOLOGY?
Opportunities for full-time and part-time positions all over Australia & New Zealand
Jaycar Electronics is a rapidly growing, Australian
owned, international retailer with more than 39 stores in
Australia and New Zealand. Our aggressive expansion
programme has resulted in the need for dedicated
individuals to join our team to assist us in achieving our
goals.
We pride ourselves on the technical knowledge of our
staff. Do you think that the following statements describe
you? Please put a tick in the boxes that do:
Knowledge of electronics, particularly at component level.
Assemble projects or kits yourself for car, computer, audio, etc.
Have empathy with others who have the same interest as you.
May have worked in some retail already (not obligatory).
Have energy, enthusiasm and a personality that enjoys
helping people.
Appreciates an opportunity for future advancement.
Have an eye for detail.
Why not do something you love and get paid for it? Please
write or email us with your details, along with your C.V.
and any qualifications you may have. We pay a
competitive salary, sales commissions and have great
benefits like a liberal staff purchase policy.
Send to:
Retail Operations Manager - Jaycar Electronics Pty Ltd
P.O. Box 6424 Silverwater NSW 1811
Email: jobs<at>jaycar.com.au
Jaycar Electronics is an equal opportunity employer and
actively promotes staff from within the organisation.
Advertising Index
Amateur Scientist CD (House).OBC
Alternative Technology Assoc......95
Altronics........................ loose insert
Av-Comm...................................110
Dick Smith Electronics........... 26-31
Eco Watch..................................110
Elexol...........................................49
Evatco..........................................97
Excelsior Power............................49
KIT ASSEMBLY
Satellite TV Reception
NEVILLE WALKER KIT ASSEMBLY
& REPAIR:
• Australia wide service
• Small production runs
• Specialist “one-off” applications
Phone Neville Walker (07) 3857 2752
Email: flashdog<at>optusnet.com.au
International satellite
TV reception in your
home is now affordable.
Send for your free info
pack containing equipment catalog, satellite
lists, etc or call for appointment to view.
We can display all satellites from 76.5°
to 180°.
WANTED
WANTED: EARLY HIFIs, AMPLIFIERS, Speakers, Turntables, Valves,
Books, Quad, Leak, Pye, Lowther,
Ortofon, SME, Western Electric, Altec, Marantz, McIntosh, Goodmans,
Wharfedale, Tannoy, radio and wireless.
Collector/Hobbyist will pay cash. (02)
9440 1267. johnmurt<at>highprofile.
com.au
AV-COMM P/L, 24/9 Powells Rd,
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Tel: 02 9939 4377 or 9939 4378.
Fax: 9939 4376; www.avcomm.com.au
Grantronics.................................109
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Hy-Q International........................63
Instant PCBs..............................109
Jaycar ..................53-60,63,111,IFC
JED Microprocessors................5,63
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MicroZed Computers....................94
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Project Reprints – Limited Back Issues –Limited One-Shots
If you’re looking for a project from ELECTRONICS AUSTRALIA, you’ll find it at SILICON CHIP! We can now
offer reprints of all projects which have appeared in Electronics Australia, EAT, Electronics Today,
ETI or Radio, TV & Hobbies. First search the EA website indexes for the project you want and then
call, fax or email us with the details and your credit card details. Reprint cost is $8.80 per article
(ie, 2-part projects cost $17.60). SILICON CHIP subscribers receive a 10% discount.
We also have limited numbers of EA back issues and special publications. Call for details!
visit www.siliconchip.com.au or www.electronicsaustralia.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
Telelink.........................................63
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PC Boards
Printed circuit boards for SILICON
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March 2005 111
From the publishers of
The Lat
SILICON
s
t
n
e
t
n
o
C
UND
TECH BACKGRO
Intelligent
turbo timer
I SBN 095852294 - 4
TURBO BOOST
& nitrous fuel controllers
9 780958 522946
$19.80 (inc GST) NZ $22.00 (inc GST)
How engine
management works
We’ll let the
contents speak
for themselves:
Not a reprint – new projects and articles not
published before
Learn how engine management works
Build projects to control nitrous, fuel injection
and turbo boost systems
Switch devices on and off on the basis of signal
frequency, temperature and voltage
Build test instruments to check fuel injector
duty cycle, fuel mixture and brake and coolant
temperatures
P L U S L O T S MORE
112 Silicon Chip
t
Managemen
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an
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6 CHAPTEhandle on how the various
Getting a
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36 CHAP
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a few
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voltage
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eter
TER 7: Using
40 CHAP make do without a multim
can’t
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resistance
current and
INSTRUMENTS
Meter
modes
art Mixtureal time, see the operating
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42 CHAP ur car’s fuel mixtures in re -load “lean-out” occurs
if a high
Track yo
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of the ECU an
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devices o
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In
:
9
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50 CHA monitor fuel injector du
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3: Temperajustable design that can wo
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PERFORMANC
siliconchip.com.au
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test From
CHIP
off
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82 CHAP eap adjustable design lets
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according to
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ta Throttle on and off, based on how
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86 CHAP tricky way of turning devic
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s – p.6
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MODIFIERS & C
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– p.105
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Engine
Advanced
t – p.14
Managemen
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Smart Mix
Meter – p.42
Capacitor
: Resistor &
ENDUM
160 ADD
Codes
om Jaycar
The Kits
available fr
and. See
Ze
Where To Buyoject described in this Abousoktralariae an
d New al
ery pr
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details.
Kits for ev
d dealers al
for further
s stores an
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Electronic
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ou
front and
the inside
p.50
cle Meter –
or Duty Cy
Fuel Inject
om.au
siliconchip.c
r
t Controlle
Turbo Boos
– p.134
Turbo
Intelligent
4
Timer – p.15
om.au
siliconchip.c
Order direct from SILICON CHIP Publications
Price: Aust. $A22.50 (inc. GST & p&p); Overseas $A26.00 (inc. p&p via airmail). Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd,
PO Box 139 Collaroy, NSW, Australia 2097. Phone (02) 9939 3295; Fax (02) 9939 2649. Email silchip<at>siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
March 2005 113
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