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JULY
2014
ISSN 1030-2662
07
Argo:
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PP255003/01272
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3,561 drones
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Threshold
Voltage Switch
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Contents
Vol.27, No.7; July 2014
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Features
14 Argo: Drones Of The Deep Oceans
Thousands of drones are floating deep in the oceans of the world, monitoring
temperatures and other data. They are fully autonomous and can change depth
or rise to the surface to send data to satellites – by Dr David Maddison
Threshold Voltage
Switch – Page 26.
22 Review: AmScope Stereo Microscope
Even people with 20/20 eyesight have difficulty soldering fine-pitch SMDs to
PCBs. This stereo microscope is made for the task and it even has a camera
eyepiece to record your work – by Andrew Levido
36 Eye-Fi Mobi SD Wireless Camera Cards
Eye-Fi have gone mobile with their new range of “Mobi” camera SD cards. Now
you can very easily send your pictures to any Android or iOS tablet or phone
and share them with friends! – by Ross Tester
Pro jects To Build
26 Threshold Voltage Switch
This versatile unit switches a relay when an input voltage crosses a preset
threshold. Use it to switch power to a fan, warning light or similar or use it to
prevent a lead-acid battery from being over-charged – by John Clarke
ASCII Video Terminal With VGA,
Composite Video, USB Port &
PS/2 Keyboard Input – Page 60.
60 Micromite, Pt.3: Build An ASCII Video Display Terminal
It’s VT100-compatible and lets you add a video display, keyboard and USB to
your next microcontroller project. It’s the perfect companion for microcontrollers
with serial input/output such as the Micromite and PICAXE– by Geoff Graham
70 Touch-Screen Digital Audio Recorder, Pt.2
Second article gives the assembly details, provides some performance graphs
and describes how it’s used – by Andrew Levido
80 L-o-o-o-n-g Gating Times For The 12-Digit Counter
This module enables even higher resolution measurements with our 12-Digit
Frequency/Period Counter. It adds a decade divider for the external timebase
input to allow measurements using a gating time of 10,000s – by Jim Rowe
Special Columns
40 Serviceman’s Log
Oh goodie, a valve radio to fix – by Dave Thompson
57 Salvage It! Wrecking The Computer Itself
Building The Touch-Screen
Digital Audio Recorder – Page 70.
Once you’ve pulled the main stuff out of your old PC, what do you do with the
rest? Don’t bin it yet: there’s still lots of goodies waiting to be recycled – by
Bruce Pierson
87 Circuit Notebook
(1) Signal Injector & Tracer Uses TDA2822M Dual Power Amplifier; (2) Headlight Circuit For A 36V Electric Bike; (3) RS-232 Input For Non-Standard Signals;
(4) Simple DIY Gizmos For SMD Desoldering
92 Vintage Radio
The upmarket 1950 HMV R53A radiogram – by Rodney Champness
Departments
2 Publisher’s Letter
4 Mailbag
siliconchip.com.au
47 Subscriptions
48 Product Showcase
90 Online Shop
98 Ask Silicon Chip
103 Market Centre
104 Notes & Errata
Long Gating Times For The 12-Digit
High-Resolution Counter – Page 80.
July 2014 1
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
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Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Production Manager
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ISSN 1030-2662
Publisher’s Letter
Argo drones gathering
deep sea data
This month, we have a most intriguing story, written
by Dr David Maddison. Did you know that there are
thousands of drones drifting deep in all the world’s
oceans, quietly gathering temperature and other data?
Most people are aware of airborne drones and their
amazing capabilities in surveillance and remote warfare but few would know that there are thousands of
drones in the oceans, including in the Antarctic and
often right under the sea ice.
This program started in 1999 so there has been a gradually increasing fleet
of these drones over the last 15 years. They have since collected a mass of
deep ocean data and will continue to do so at an ever increasing rate. Some 30
nations are involved in the Argo project, the USA being the biggest, followed
by Australia.
How can these drones communicate and deliver their collected data? They
are programmed for a 10-day cycle which continues for many years, until their
batteries are exhausted. For most of that 10-day cycle, they float at around 1000
metres, drifting in the deep ocean currents. Then they sink to 2000 metres and
then slowly rise to the surface, logging temperature and other data as they go.
They beam their data to satellites and then submerge to begin the cycle again.
It is most important that all this data is collected and carefully analysed,
for it will tell us much about the world’s climate and how it is changing. Undoubtedly, it will tell us a lot more about the deep ocean currents and how
they contribute to ocean temperature cycles which can run over many decades.
Some climate scientists believe that the current pause in “global warming”
may be due to the excess heat being stored in the deep oceans. Maybe they are
right but it could be many decades before the Argo drones demonstrate the
truth of that notion. Arguably, the drone program may have to be considerably
extended because great areas of the world’s oceans are considerably deeper
than 2000 metres.
This fact has been emphasised by the loss of Malaysian Airlines Flight
MH370 which may be in very deep water indeed. So deep that very little of
today’s technology has any chance of finding it. Maybe the Argo drones might
have found it if they had been equipped for such monitoring.
Actually, the Argo program must be regarded as an initial stage in exploring
the deep oceans. While virtually all of the Earth’s land surface has been fairly
thoroughly explored, much of the world’s oceans are about as well known as
the far side of the Moon. For example, while we know that there are many
thousands of undersea volcanoes, relatively little is known about their activity
and how they might be affecting the undersea environment.
Perhaps in the future we will see undersea drones which don’t merely drift
with the ocean currents but which are actually self-propelled, skimming over
vast areas of the ocean floor while they collect video and other data, returning
to the surface to be recharged and then to be programmed again for other missions. Imagine how these might have expedited the search for Flight MH370
as pods of these things were launched, like robot dolphins, to search the seas.
Or perhaps such drones could be programmed to follow whale migrations,
or monitor the life of large fish shoals as they roamed the oceans. It is an exciting prospect, is it not? It is gratifying to know that Australia is taking such
a major part in the Argo project and it is to be hoped that we can similarly be
involved in future exploration of the world’s oceans.
Leo Simpson
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July 2014 3
MAILBAG
Letters and emails should contain complete name, address and daytime phone number. Letters to
the Editor are submitted on the condition that Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd may edit and has the
right to reproduce in electronic form and communicate these letters. This also applies to submissions
to “Ask SILICON CHIP” and “Circuit Notebook”.
Suggestion for a simplified
head-up display
I have been monitoring the interest
in head-up displays (HUDs) in your
magazine. I believe the main purpose
of a HUD is to provide basic information to the driver without the need to
take his/her eyes off the road or even
focus on a nearer display.
I believe this could be economically
and simply achieved with a single
tricolour LED. My idea is that this tricolour LED would be positioned on top
of the dash, reflecting in the screen. It
would be green at the ‘set’ speed, blue
below that speed and red above that
speed, with the green covering a couple
of km/h either side of the set speed. An
enhancement could be flashing of the
red about 5km/h above the set speed.
Setting could be done by pressing a
button at the set speed or by turning a
knob until the green LED lights up at
the desired speed using the speedo (or
tachometer) to provide the necessary
information but only once for a given
setting. This information would be
retained until a need to change it arose,
possibly at the next town, or retained
long-term for a given situation such as
highway speed.
Input of speed data could ideally be
as versatile as possible to allow fitting
to all vehicles independent of age or
planned end use. I would envisage this
unit being useful as an indication of
more than speed, including optimum
revs independently of gear and possibly to indicate the tacho red line.
The system does not even need the
driver to focus on the light and it could
easily be positioned wherever suits the
driver or even directly viewed. Dimming at night would be required and
in conjunction with this light there
could be others for temperature and
oil pressure which could be easily
organised with existing systems based
on frequency or voltage.
Jeff Montague,
Toora, Vic.
Comment: this project would require
a microprocessor and not much other
circuitry. We are not sure that most
readers would want to settle for such
a simple display, given that the micro
could easily drive a 4-digit 7-segment
display with little extra circuitry being
required.
Belief in warming effect
of carbon dioxide
While John McDonald (Mailbag,
page 8, June 2014) is “absolutely
amazed . . . people . . . are still being sucked into believing this global
warming nonsense”, I am absolutely
amazed that, given the credible scientific evidence of the heating effect of
carbon dioxide released by burning
fossil fuels, there are people who still
do not believe in anthropologicalgenerated climate change.
Perhaps the common ground is
that we both believe the climate is
changing. Therefore, I propose a risk
management approach to an issue that
cannot be confirmed one way or the
other before any necessary mitigation
is too late to be effective.
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July 2014 5
Mailbag: continued
Concerns about wiring in Chinese
electronic equipment
unsatisfactory situation indeed.
However, before correcting this,
my attention was drawn to the 5V
regulator heatsink that was sitting
crooked on the board. The corner of
this bent aluminium shape was now
less than 2mm from the solder pad
that brought the mains lead up to the
PC-mounted on-off switch. Here was
exactly the type of fault that could
put 240VAC on the test leads!
The heatsink was fabricated with
oversized mounting holes that readily allowed it to slop over towards
the mains switch. It had apparently
been this way since assembly, as all
the screws were tight.
Closer inspection of the PCB
showed that in places, the 240VAC
tracks came within 2.5mm of the
chassis connected ground plane.
This is well inside the 4mm standard practice for double-insulated
equipment such as this and would
certainly fail the isolation test.
A little work put all this right but
poor design and poor assembly prac-
Faced with a potential catastrophic
‘show stopper’ risk, best project management practice is to mitigate the
risk. An astute project manager will
do everything possible to reduce the
risk no matter what the chance of it
occurring. After all, if the risk comes
to pass, all other effort is for naught.
There are two possible outcomes in
this approach. First, mitigation action
of reducing greenhouse gasses and
preparing for environmental change is
taken in a considered, orderly and affordable way (although I don’t dispute
that there is an actual cost in the same
way that paying an insurance premium
reduces disposable income for more
enjoyable pursuits) and it turns out
climate change is natural.
In this case many of the measures
taken will be necessary to help mankind cope with the altered environment; a small “w” win as society and
the economy cope.
Second, mitigation action is taken
as above and the climate is being
changed by mankind; a capital “W”
win as society and the economy suc-
cessfully adapt with the least cost and
inconvenience overall.
For completeness of options, let’s
consider the alternative business-asusual scenarios: nothing is done and
climate change is natural. Money will
still need to be spent in the future to
somewhat ameliorate the effects of
the changing climate on agriculture,
dwellings, workplaces, transportation,
infrastructure, medicine, defence, etc.
As any project manager will tell
you, rushed ‘fix the problem now’
expenditure is always very expensive.
Society and the economy will suffer a
severe negative impact.
Finally, climate change is man-made.
It’s business-as-usual and, having ignored the warnings and continuing to
exacerbate the effect, the worst case
predictions are the future reality. Despite massive expenditure to finally
deal with the issue, it’s too little, too
late as by this time climate change
is unstoppable for over 1000 years.
The massive expenditure and negative impacts on production drive the
world’s economies into severe depres-
Recently, our test section took
delivery of an inexpensive frequency
counter directly from China. It was
fitted with a flat US-style 2-pin
mains plug but before I lopped it
off to fit a 3-pin plug, I opened the
unit to have a curious look around.
The first thing that caught my attention was that the flimsy primary
leads to the small mains transformer
were bundled and cable-tied to the
equally poorly insulated secondary leads. I doubt they would have
withstood the standard one-minute
4kV isolation test.
The leads were duly separated
but it soon became obvious that
the fuse was wired into the Neutral
lead of the mains cable. Given that
this unit would only be earthed via
the test lead plugged into the front
panel, any Active-to-chassis internal
fault would be effectively unfused,
exposing the operator to both high
voltages and/or high currents; a very
6 Silicon Chip
tice created a potentially dangerous
situation that took the shine off the
bargain price.
Incidentally, a few months earlier I
had encountered a Chinese-manufactured power supply (this time from
an Australian distributor) with no
continuity from the chassis to earth.
The mains earth lead was terminated
in an eye-lug that was held against
the chassis with a bolt and nut. The
problem was that the painted chassis
insulated the lug and the bolt. Obviously, their final factory tests do not
include earth integrity.
End users of electrical equipment
rely on the competency of designers and manufacturers for our very
safety but in the case of Chinese
origin gear, it pays to do a few simple
checks yourself. Plainly, the mains
wiring practices of some Chinese
manufacturers are still dangerously
inadequate.
Keep up the good work SILICON
CHIP magazine. Your efforts are
consistently world-class and well
appreciated.
Mark Hallinan,
Sunnybank Hills, Qld.
sion. Over the millennium, society is
turned upside-down trying to cope
with the environmental, economic
and dislocation effects of sustained
climatic changes.
Considering the very likely outcomes of each scenario, I think the
only sensible and safe option is to
immediately discuss what is the appropriate balance of GDP to invest in
greenhouse gas reduction technologies
and climate change amelioration projects. Then implement the mitigation
strategy without delay.
Despite the low risk and high premiums, no-one regrets having insurance
when their house burns down. If there
is any disappointment, it usually is: I
wish I’d paid more to make sure I was
fully covered.
Tim Herne,
Calwell, ACT.
In defence of
climate modelling
George Ramsay’s statement (Mailbag, May 2014) that scientists, using
computer models, “extrapolate past
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
July 2014 7
Mailbag: continued
A novel circuit for a
GPS-disciplined OCXO
A while back, I wrote a criticism
of your GPS-disciplined 10MHz
standard (SILICON CHIP, March-May
2007 & September 2011). At the
time my ideas for improvement
were theoretical and as we all know
“in theory, theory and practice are
the same, in practice they aren’t”.
To cut a long story short, the ideas
have been incorporated in a design
that bears little relationship to the
original SILICON CHIP circuit.
The end result is built on stripboard as a ‘proof of concept’ rather
than a finished product. Given that
many readers would have more
design skills, more test equipment
and more use for the end product, I
believe they should have no trouble
adapting the design for their own
uses. It is written up at www.cashin.
net/project1/index.html
The design uses a commercial
10MHz OCXO (oven controlled
crystal oscillator). Older used ones
are available on a well-known site
for less than $30. Apart from this
and a GPS unit, the components are
their set of data points” to “predict
the future” reveals a misunderstanding of how current computer models
forecast weather and simulate future
climate. Such models are based on
known laws of physics such as the
conservation of mass, Newton’s laws
of motion, the first and second laws of
thermodynamics, the laws governing
radiative transfer etc.
These models integrate differential
equations that describe the physical
laws obeyed by the atmosphere, using
the current state of the atmosphere
(current weather) as a starting point.
The equations are time dependent and
so are predictive. Such models do not
“extrapolate” from a prior sequence of
data points!
The accuracy of the forecast depends
on the accuracy of the input data,
the resolution of the model and the
inclusion in the model of all relevant
physical processes. Clearly, unless the
input data has infinite resolution and
8 Silicon Chip
inexpensive and readily available. A
PIC16F628A is used to discipline the
OCXO and after some ‘burn in’ time,
compares the GPS and OCXO over
3-hour periods. In a day or two, the
OCXO settles to much better than
one part in 1010.
Original tests were done using a
poor antenna location in the house,
where the temperature is relatively
constant. The worst case result after
two days was two parts in 1011, and
better than one part in 1011 for most
3-hour periods. The rig is currently
in a carport with the antenna in a
favourable position (on the roof) but
the rig is subject to more temperature
variation. I expect to have the results
for this location by the time this letter is published.
These results are in the same
league as rubidium standards without any set-up procedure or age limit,
costing the same or less and with the
satisfaction of ‘rolling your own’. If
anyone is interested and wishes to
correspond, there is an obfuscated
email address at the link above.
Alan Cashin,
Isilington, NSW.
is perfectly accurate, unless all physical processes are included and unless
the computer has unlimited speed and
storage capacity, the forecast weather
will diverge from the observed weather
as the forecast period increases.
Most weather models would not
claim to be accurate past about a week.
So it is reasonable to ask how climate
models can claim to “predict” the
climate far into the future.
There are important inputs to models other than the current weather.
Called climate forcings, these include
boundary conditions such as surface
type (soil, sand, water, snow, sea ice,
vegetation, topography, albedo etc.),
the composition of the atmosphere
(particulates and gases including
water vapour and greenhouse gases
because they strongly influence radiative transfer) and the source of nearly
all atmospheric energy, solar radiation.
They are especially important in the
long term; there are many more.
Suppose a model is run to simulate
the weather over a long period, say
decades. Now we are not interested
in specific weather events but rather
in averages. We have a climate model.
The simulated climate (average weather patterns, temperature and rainfall
distributions etc) during the period
can be calculated and compared with
real climate statistics.
If there is good agreement for past
periods when climate forcings were
known, then the model should be
capable of simulating how the climate might change under differing
forcing scenarios. For instance, what
changes of climate might be expected
if the concentration of a particular
greenhouse gas were to double? What
if particulates increase due to an immense volcanic eruption? What if sea
ice disappears from the Arctic Ocean?
What if Brazil is deforested?
If you are seeking additional information about Global Climate Models
(GCMs), a good place to start is the
Geophysical Fluid Dynamics Laboratory website at Princeton University,
http://www.gfdl.noaa.gov/climatemodeling
Bob Lile, PhD,
Princes Hill, Vic.
Scepticism should be the
basis of climate science
Just wanted to let you know I loved
the Publisher’s Letter in the June 2014
issue, on reducing clutter and organising stuff to make things easier for
others later on etc. We’ve just been
clearing out all areas of our house and
the effect is brilliant. It seems to help
clear the mind as well. My workshop
is so much more functional. I used to
feel overwhelmed by the sheer quantity of junk and unfinished projects, to
the point of paralysis and stagnation.
Also, I wanted to express my appreciation for Leo Simpson’s continued
sceptical stance on climate change,
despite the volume of critical mail you
seem to be getting. I don’t pretend to
be at all knowledgeable in that area but
to me the whole thing stinks, just on
the basis of how anyone expressing the
slightest bit of scepticism is labelled
a “non-believer” and assumed to be
in collusion with the evil polluters/
miners etc or be politically motivated
and have extreme right-wing views.
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
July 2014 9
Mailbag: continued
Favourable experience
with digital hearing aids
Over the years I have followed
with considerable interest the SILICON CHIP articles on the Australianmanufactured hearing aids (initially Australia Hears, now Blamey
Saunders Hears). I would like to
add my comments to writer G. H.
“Hearing Aids Are Too Expensive”
(Ask SILICON CHIP, June 2014) and
Ross Tester’s response, the points
of which are confirmed by my experience.
For some years, I had become
increasingly dissatisfied with the
sound from my fairly expensive hifi
system, eventually thinking that the
speakers mustn’t be up to scratch. I
also like listening to FM radio but I
found the announcers’ voices to be
muffled and the music reproduction
very ordinary sounding.
My wife, who suffers from several
problems which affect her hearing,
had an audiology test several years
ago and also saw a specialist. But
the downsides of a possible surgical
procedure outweighed any potential
benefits and she did not proceed
down that path.
At that point we invested in two
pairs of wireless headphones for
watching those TV programs which
we had difficulty hearing (strong
English dialects, background music
seemingly dominating actors’ voices
This is not what science is supposed
to be about – scepticism is the basis of
science. The IPCC seems to be a highly
questionable organisation and as far
as I can tell it’s only them saying that
97% of scientists agree etc.
There are also still problems with
the whole theory, the biggest of which
that I know of is the fact that over the
last several thousand years, increasing temperature has driven increasing
CO2 (ie, atmospheric temperature rose
before CO2 levels), which is the exact
opposite to what the “eco-mentalists”
are claiming is happening now.
The climate may be changing but as
far as I can tell the links that “prove”
it to be due to human activity (I have
10 Silicon Chip
etc). On the other hand, with locally
produced programs, we tended to
use the set’s loudspeakers with the
volume fairly well advanced.
Several months ago we did the
on-line Blamey Saunders hearing
test and as a result my wife ordered
a pair of their SIE-64 hearing aids
with the programmer box. These
aids are not cheap but are half the
cost of what you would pay for those
from an audiologist supplier.
After a few days use, she advised
me to try her lefthand aid while
we watched TV. The change was
remarkable – the volume could be
turned down and I could hear the
voices with a crispness which I
didn’t realise existed! After several
more days use, she fine-adjusted
the aids using the programmer box,
tweaking them to her satisfaction.
Next, I was encouraged to book an
audiology test at our local National
Hearing Care clinic, the results of
which showed my high-frequency
hearing to be poor, especially on the
left side. So my next move was to order a pair of the SIE-64 from Blamey
Saunders, attaching an emailed copy
of these results to them so they could
perform an initial set-up of the aids
for me.
I have now been using the aids for
several weeks and their performance
is absolutely impressive. TV can
be watched at considerably lower
read amounting to an extra 3% CO2
production over previous “natural”
levels) are far from solid.
I guess it comes down to the whole
“greenie” mentality that somehow
humans are a blight on nature and all
of our incredible achievements are unnatural. After all, what we are mostly
doing that is supposedly wrecking the
planet is simply striving to make our
lives better and easier, which is surely
as natural as it gets.
I love the parts of our planet that are
unspoilt by humans and absolutely
agree that they should be kept that
way. But would I go back to living as
a cave man? Absolutely not! Anyone
so concerned that what humans do is
volume levels with good audibility
(with the odd exception, as some
DVDs require the use of the headphones as do some TV programs,
due to accents and varying sound
mixes). Listening to music via the
hifi system is now a most enjoyable
experience, with great treble and
stereo performance from our CDs.
There was nothing wrong with my
speakers, after all!
As a further comment, the hearing
aids do not restore one’s hearing to
what it may have been some years
before but assist in smoothing the
defects which have occurred over
time, thus enabling a more enjoyable
life. As the name implies, they are
an aid, just as spectacles are an aid
to deteriorating vision.
Yes, aids all have their downsides. After all, they are objects we
have to wear and hence we notice
them physically. But without them
we can become less connected
to friends and society. They are a
crutch of sorts but where would the
person with a broken leg be without
crutches?
So as we age or suffer from a disability we employ the technology
that aids us to enjoy life more fully.
It can take a bit of adapting to but the
end result is to my mind extremely
beneficial.
Thanks for the magazine; sometimes controversial, always interesting.
Richard Kerr,
Millfield, NSW.
unnatural should go back to living as
a hunter-gatherer.
Keep up the great work; it’s a fantastic and unique magazine.
Ionwyn Buckland,
Hornsby Heights, NSW.
Problems with isolation
transformer article
I refer to an article in the May 2014
issue of SILICON CHIP, where a mains
isolation transformer is assembled by
employing two identical step down
transformers with the low-voltage
windings connected together, the idea
being that the power mains is stepped
down to 12VAC and then stepped back
up to mains potential, in this case
siliconchip.com.au
230VAC, with an available power of
920 watts.
So far so good except that the 12V
windings on both transformers need
to be equipped with windings capable of delivering or accepting about
78A. Judging from the photograph on
page 86, this would appear to be quite
unlikely. Furthermore, the secondary
wiring from the transformers certainly
appears far too thin to carry such a high
current. The power rating of 920W is
assumed because of the 4A maximum
output current stated at 230V.
Fig.3 on page 86 of that issue shows
a 3A fuse wired in series with primary
winding of the input transformer while
the picture on page 87 shows the
output GPOs labelled to deliver up to
4A. One begins to wonder how many
people were involved in the article
being described because the input
current will exceed the output current for a number of reasons. They are
primarily due to the need for the input
transformer not only requiring its own
magnetising current but also needing
to supply the output transformer’s
magnetising current.
In other words, the input current
will be measurably higher than the
current delivered to the output load.
It appears that no reduction in output
voltage has been taken into account
due to I2R losses. The losses will also
vary according to output current.
It would appear that the writer of
the article has taken the wattage of the
transformers to be the same as the VA
Damn you, Micromite!
I’m a retired engineer living in
Tasmania and my imagination was
sparked by your article on the Micromite in the May 2014 issue of SILICON
CHIP. My discovery of the Arduino
MCU development platform last
year prompted me to take up electronics again as a hobby (much to
the delight of parts suppliers). I am
more familiar with the BASIC programming language, in its various
permutations but thought that the
‘C’ language, being compiled rather
than interpretive, was the way to go.
Having bought a few books about
the Arduino, learnt all about the
IDE and taught myself to program in
‘C’, along comes the Micromite and
rating because the rating of the UPS
from which they were removed claims
a VA rating of 920. If this is the case,
the writer is wrong. VA is derived by
dividing the power in watts by the load
power factor.
A typical monitor-computer combination that forms the load for a
UPS exhibits a power factor of 0.6 so
by manipulating the formula to find
power, we need to multiply the VA by
the power factor; for a VA of 920 and
a load power factor of 0.6 we obtain a
power of 522W or a current of 2.27A,
not 4A as suggested. I would suggest
the input fuse for such an arrangement
be of the order of 4A slow-blow.
It should be mentioned that the
MMBasic. So damn you Micromite!
I guess the PIC32MX MCU is that
fast and powerful, who cares if it’s
running BASIC!
However, I do believe there is an
error in the said article on page 36,
where the text description of the
NMEA date and time fields for the
GPRMC message type are the wrong
way around. ‘Date’ should be the
tenth field and ‘Time’ the second.
The program is correct.
As an avid reader, in the past, of
“Practical Electronics”, “Electronics Australia” and “ETI”, I am now
a happy subscriber to SILICON CHIP.
Keep up the good work!
Tony Barrett,
Queenstown, Tas.
transformers employed the article are
designed to operate for a relatively
short time, say between five and 20
minutes, depending on the load current when using a typical 12V SLA 7Ah
battery in a UPS. During standby, the
input current only has to be sufficient
to maintain the battery voltage near full
charge. Thus heating of the transformer
will be minimal, whereas during the
power supply mode the heating of the
transformer is considerable and is not
designed for continuous use.
Finally, I still have reservations
about the current ratings of the 12V
windings on the transformers (14V CT
in the text!). Even with a power rating
of 522W the 12V windings will need
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July 2014 11
Mailbag: continued
Isolation transformer’s output
socket must not be earthed
I love your articles in “Salvage
It”. I was brought up in the days of
“make do and mend” and “waste
not, want not”. Nothing useful was
ever thrown away. I still adopt that
attitude today although it can make
access to my shed a trifle crowded.
I have a concern over the safety
aspect of your design for the isolation transformer. In your bid to
make the most use of the salvaged
components you have included
the double GPO. In so doing, this
has completely defeated the whole
point of such a device, which is to
isolate from earth and all other live
equipment.
If two operators were to use both
outlets at the same time for connecting two pieces of equipment
it is no longer isolating anything.
The idea of isolating transformers
is to totally isolate any appliance
from all connections which may
accidentally become earthed. This
allows a person to handle a “live”
chassis without forming a return
path to earth through their body.
If two appliances are connected
at the same time then a person
handling one of these immediately
forms a return path to the other
appliance. Each appliance then
becomes “live” with respect to the
other and would electrocute both
operators.
Similarly if an appliance with
an earth fault were plugged into an
earthed socket then the isolation is
immediately lost. For these reasons
Australian Standard AS3000 clause
5.3.9.1 states “An isolating transformer shall supply only one item
of equipment at low voltage”.
I think that it may be worth producing a safety information article
for your readers who may have a
need to use an isolation transformer
as they may be tempted to plug in
double adaptors etc.
Keep the recycling ideas coming;
the world needs your help.
Keith Brown,
Robe, SA.
Comment: you are certainly correct
that the output socket of an isolation
transformer must not be earthed.
Interestingly, we have two isolation
transformers in our laboratory, one
rated at 240W and one at 1kVA (a
very heavy beast). We have included
photos of the smaller unit to show its
warning that the secondary must not
be earthed. Furthermore, the earth
pin of its 3-pin output socket is not
connected.
However, with respect to Australian standards, while the reference
clause 5.3.9.1 is in the 1986 edition
of AS3000 it is not in AS3000:2007.
However, there is mention in clause
4.14.3.2 with respect to earthing
where it says that: “Exception: where
the low voltage transformer output
complies with the requirements of
the AS/NZS 61558 series, earthing
is not required on the secondary
side”. Typical commercially-made
isolation transformers comply with
AS/NZS 61558 2.6. The old standard
was AS3108. Only one output socket
should be fitted.
We have modified the article published in the May 2014 issue and it is
now in the on-line edition available
from our website. The changes also
reflect the comments made in Victor
Barker’s letter on pages 11 and 12.
This small isolation transformer in the SILICON CHIP laboratory has a single 3-pin outlet and includes a warning on the
label on top stating that the secondary must not be earthed.
to be rated at 43.5A and the wiring
will need to accommodate this value.
I also make the point again that the
output voltage will always be less than
the input voltage. I therefore suggest
that using back-to-back transformers
for isolation purposes, despite the
12 Silicon Chip
cost advantage, may not be such a
good idea.
Victor G. Barker, VK2BTV,
Gorokan NSW.
Comment: we agree that the transformers featured in the May 2014 issue
would not be able to provide an output
of 920W. Judging from the size of the
transformers’ cores, a more realistic
rating would be no more than about
200-250W.
Such an appliance would be very
handy when doing repairs or tests on
equipment with live chassis.
siliconchip.com.au
Too much signal from
cheap video cameras
I noticed in the Ask SILICON CHIP
pages of the May 2014 issue that
P. M. complained of a weak and
washed out video signal from a
reversing camera. I had a similar
problem with both a “sugar cube”
black and white camera and a small
colour camera used for security etc.
At first, I thought that it was due
to the fact that both cameras were
cheap. But in attempting to solve the
problem, I had been referring to two
“Electronics Australia” projects: the
Frame Grabber in August 1989 and
Slow Scan TV in July & August 1990.
What caught my eye was the input
of the latter. The designer, Leon Wil-
Isolation transformer should
not have a double outlet
What a good idea to make an isolation transformer from the two UPS
transformers, as depicted in the May
2014 issue. However, I think that your
readers and users of the isolation transformer should be aware that the original isolation transformers sold in this
country (eg, Saf-T-Pac) had a shield
around the outlet socket to prevent
double adaptors being inserted and a
warning that more than one item/tool/
appliance should not be used with the
transformer at one time.
The reason is that if one of the
devices connected to it has an earth
fault, it means that the secondary of the
output transformer would no longer be
isolated from earth, thus defeating the
purpose of the device. Your version
has a double outlet and users should
be warned to replace that with a single general purpose outlet and also
warned against using two devices on
it concurrently.
Peter Chalmers,
Clear Mountain, Qld.
Ethernet over mains may
not work across phases
I have just read Leo Simpson’s article in the June 2014 issue. It reminded
me of the issues I dealt with in retro
fitting gigabit Ethernet to my home. We
now have eight cabled points and two
wireless access points to cater for all
manner of desktop and mobile devices.
During the planning stages, I consiliconchip.com.au
liams, had fed the video signal into
a 1kΩ potentiometer and labelled it
as “contrast”
So I simply placed a grounded
1kΩ pot between the camera and
my display, which was an Acer
computer monitor with multiple
inputs, including composite video.
On adjustment, I was able to get
a crisp, well-defined picture from
either camera. Contrary to what I
thought, they were both capable of
producing good pictures.
The washed-out video from my
cameras was due to the signals being
too strong, not too weak. Perhaps
that is the case for P. M. as well.
George Ramsay,
Holland Park, Qld.
sidered the Ethernet via mains option
but ultimately opted for cable because I
could not get a straight answer on how
the ‘via mains’ system would function in a house whose mains power
is 3-phase.
I suspected that the ‘via mains’
system might only operate within
one phase and not across phases, as
the three phases are separate circuits.
Am I correct on this and if this is
a limitation, is it worth drawing it to
the attention of readers who might be
considering installing this system?
Robert Allan,
Hunters Hill, NSW.
Leo Simpson comments: I do not have
3-phase wiring in my home so I do not
know the answer. I think your doubts
are justified. Ultimately, your wired
system is likely to be superior which
is fine if it can be installed reasonably
easily.
1ms pulse interface information
available on Microchip website
With respect to the question concerning a 1ms interface in the Ask
SILICON CHIP pages of the May 2013
issue, the Microchip application note
AN847 covers this in some detail. Also
AN905 (Brushed DC Motors) is a good
reference.
Both are available at no cost from
the Microchip website.
Keep up the good work with SILICON CHIP.
Mike Abrams,
SC
Capalaba, Qld.
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July 2014 13
This photo shows an Argo float being deployed into the ocean,
although they are not normally thrown off the side of a ship as
shown here. The usual method is to lower them gently into the
ocean in a cardboard box to protect them hitting the side of the
ship. The box is in a sling with a quick release on the bottom.
When the box hits the water, a starch tablet in the bottom
dissolves and the biodegradable box floats away, releasing the
float.
Argo:
drones of the
deep oceans
By Dr DAVID MADDISON
Right now, thousands of drones are floating deep in the oceans of
the world, monitoring temperatures and other data. They are fully
autonomous and they can change their buoyancy to sink deeper or
rise to the surface to send data to satellites.
M
OST PEOPLE know about drone
aircraft and their many types and
capabilities but did you know that
there are thousands of drones in the
deep seas? Over 3600 such drones are
quietly floating at around 1000 metres
deep in the oceans of the world, monitoring temperatures, salinity and other
parameters. Not only that, they also
regularly descend to 2000 metres, then
slowly float up to the surface, taking
measurements as they go and then they
beam their collected data to satellites.
After transmitting their data they
submerge again, endlessly repeating
the cycle, unseen and autonomous for
14 Silicon Chip
many years, until they reach the end
of their lives due to misadventure or
battery failure.
This is Argo, an international project
involving 30 countries including Australia. It consists of thousands of freeranging ocean floats that monitor the
temperature, salinity, currents and
other parameters of the ocean. Data
from the floats is used in the study of
oceanography and climatology.
Important data
The data obtained from Argo is important because it is acquired rapidly
in near real-time and can assist in short
and long-term weather forecasting,
monitoring of long-term trends in the
ocean, monitoring of ocean currents
and for other weather, climate and
oceanographic research.
Until recent times, ocean temperature and other measurements have
been made by research ships or commercial or military ships participating in the Voluntary Observing Ship
scheme. But such measurements are
limited in scope and follow the main
shipping routes. In addition, because
of the greater volume of shipping in
the Northern Hemisphere, there was
far more data from there than from the
siliconchip.com.au
Southern Hemisphere, where there
also happens to be a greater volume
of ocean.
How does it work?
So how do the Argo floats sink to
2000 metres deep or rise to the surface?
They do it by controlling their buoyancy. Fig.1 shows a cross-section of a
typical Argo float; they are essentially a
cylinder which is more than 1.1 metres
long and they float vertically.
At depth, the buoyancy is controlled
by an external hydraulic bladder at the
bottom. To make it rise, a geared motor
drives a rod which pushes down a piston in a cylinder filled with hydraulic
fluid (oil). The hydraulic fluid inflates
the bladder and the float then displaces
more water, increasing its buoyancy
and up it goes.
To reverse the process, the motor
retracts the piston and the fluid from
the bladder is forced back into the
siliconchip.com.au
cylinder, reducing the buoyancy and
accordingly, the Argo float sinks. The
process is quite precise as the pressure
is monitored by a sensor adjacent to
the bladder. As we shall see, the water
depth is directly proportional to the
pressure, and vice versa.
Extra buoyancy is required when
the float reaches the surface to ensure
that the antenna is clear of the water.
This is provided by a pneumatic bladder which can be inflated by another
pump.
A typical float weighs 20-30kg.
Sensors at the top of the float monitor temperature, salinity and other
parameters, depending on the particular model of Argo float. An antenna at
the top of the unit sends the data to
a satellite. That broadly describes an
Argo float but there are many variations, as described later in this article.
Argo was conceived in 1999 when
international organisations met to
discuss creating a more coordinated
approach to the gathering and distribution of oceanographic data. Following
this meeting, a group of scientists
developed a plan to have a 3000-float
array in place by 2007 and this objective was achieved, the first floats having been deployed in late 1999.
The figure of 3000 floats was arrived
at by a requirement for each float to
sample a roughly 3° x 3° latitude by
longitude area between 60° north and
60° south. Higher latitudes were initially excluded because of the problem
of the floats becoming entangled with
sea ice and polar ice-sheets. There is
now a program to deploy polar floats
which will be discussed later.
In 2009, suggestions for further
improvements to the array were made
such as providing extra coverage in
certain areas and adding chemical
and biological sensors to the floats.
By November 2012, the one millionth
“profile” (data set) of temperature
and salinity had been gathered which
represented twice as much data as had
been collected by research vessels over
the entire 20th century.
At the time of this one millionth
profile, 120,000 profiles were being
collected every year or about one every
four minutes, each profile consisting
of up to 1000 temperature and salinity
measurements.
The information that can be gained
from the study of Argo data includes:
• Measurement of ocean temperature
over a range of depths.
Fig.1: cross-section diagram of typical
Argo float. Note the pneumatic
bladder in this model. This is inflated
near the surface to ensure the float
rides high enough so that the satellite
antenna is clear of the water.
• Measurement of ocean salinity over
a range of depths that can reveal where
the ocean has become less salty due
to rainfall or river outflows and more
salty due to evaporation or by the flow
of ocean currents with various levels
of salinity. This leads to insights into
the hydrological cycle.
• Measurement of ocean circulation
and temperature characteristics which
lead to phenomena such as El Niño
(an abnormal band of warm water of
greater than 0.5°C above average that
periodically develops off the coast
of South America causing adverse
weather events in Australia and many
other countries); the Pacific Decadal
Oscillation – sea surface temperature
anomalies which affect climate in
western North America, Siberia, India and Australia; and other similar
phenomena.
• Accurate mapping of ocean circulation.
• Seasonal variations in the ocean
and long-term variations.
July 2014 15
Figs.2&3: these two plots show data from a float deployed off Western Australia, in the Leeuwin Current that runs
south along the WA coastline. Fig.2 at left shows salinity versus depth, while Fig.3 at right shows temperature versus
depth down to 500 metres. The x-axis of each is time in years while the y-axis is depth, in metres. The legend at
bottom shows the correspondence between colour and either salinity (in parts per thousand) or temperature (in °C).
Of special interest to some researchers is the heat content of the oceans.
A 3-metre column of ocean water
contains as much thermal energy as the
entire height of the atmosphere of the
same column diameter. Knowing the
temperature and other parameters of
the ocean and how heat is exchanged
between the ocean and the atmosphere
is important for understanding the
climate system.
A typical Argo mission
A typical Argo float mission is 10
days. It involves sinking from the surface to a depth of about 1000 metres
and parking at that location for around
nine and a half days while it takes temperature, salinity, pressure (equivalent
to depth) and other measurements the
float is equipped to take; see Fig.8.
A depth of around 1000 metres
is typically chosen as it is usually a
region with minimal current and the
float will not drift away too far from its
desired location. Following the parking period, the float drops to a depth of
about 2000 metres and then proceeds
to rise to the surface over a period
of eight hours during which it takes
further temperature, salinity, pressure
and possibly other measurements
along the approximately 2000-metre
water column, depending on which
sensors the float is equipped with.
Pressure equals depth
Note that in oceanography, water
pressure, measured in decibars (dbar
or db), is used as a measure of depth
(in metres). One bar roughly equals one
atmosphere and a decibar is roughly
Fig.4: this is the
path of an Argo
float revealing
the Antarctic
Circumpolar
Current. At the
time of this image,
the float had been
deployed for six
years, reporting a
2000 metre profile
every 10 days while
drifting at a depth
of 1000 metres
between reports.
16 Silicon Chip
0.1 atmospheres. The pressure in deci
bars is for most practical purposes the
same as the depth in metres, so that an
increase in depth of one metre equates
to increase in pressure of one decibar;
100 decibars is 100 metres. While pressure in the ocean would comprise the
depth of water plus the atmosphere,
the relatively small contribution of
the atmosphere is ignored so at the
surface, the pressure is considered to
be 0 decibars.
The precise conversion formula
between decibars and metres of depth
in the ocean can be found in a panel
later in this article.
Argo floats can phone home
Argo floats communicate by one of
two methods. Older floats typically
communicate to the Argos satellite
which is a general-purpose environmental data receiving satellite, not
specifically associated with the Argo
program despite the similar name.
Newer floats use the Iridium satellite
phone network. Essentially, they make
a phone call to the relevant Argo data
centre.
Older floats which communicate
with the Argos satellite have to sit on
the surface for 12-26 hours in order
to transmit their 78 data points to the
satellite. They can only store one profile at a time. These long surface times
mean that wind and surface currents
can move the floats away from their
intended location and they can even
wash up on shore.
Another risk of long surface times is
that they will be spotted by fishermen
and picked up when they should be
left alone. This is a major reason for
Argo floats, particularly in the tropics,
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.5: this is a general model of oceanic circulation, also known as thermohaline circulation or the “Global Conveyor
Belt”. It’s driven by differences in water temperature and salinity which affect the density of seawater. In general, warm
shallow water cools and sinks in the North Atlantic and deep cold water returns to the surface in the Indian and Pacific
Oceans where it again warms. Argo can help monitor these currents, measuring temperature and salinity, and determine
if any changes take place.
sometimes ending up in remote fishing villages in the middle of nowhere!
Since the older floats don’t have
GPS, their location is determined by
calculations involving Doppler shift
of the radio signal.
Newer floats which communicate
via the Iridium network only require a
surface time of around 15 minutes and
can store up to 1000 data points per
profile and 60 profiles. Their location
is determined by GPS.
One might wonder if the floats
constitute a shipping hazard but there
have been no incidents. Their time
at the surface is relatively short and
since they are generally far away from
shore they are not likely to be hit by
small speedboats. In any case, there
is vastly more natural and man-made
debris floating in the ocean, much of
it larger than the floats.
Australia is a big player
The USA has the largest number
of Argo floats while Australia has the
second largest, representing about 11
percent of the total number (see Fig.6).
Argo in Australia is operated by CSIRO
Marine and Atmospheric Research in
Hobart, with support from the Bureau
of Meteorology, IMOS (Australia’s
Integrated Marine Observing System),
the Antarctic Climate and Ecosystem
siliconchip.com.au
Jason & The Argonauts
The name Argo derives from Greek mythology and is the name of the vessel
in which Jason and the Argonauts went looking for the Golden Fleece. Argo also
works in a complementary manner with the NASA Jason satellites to measure
sea levels.
Jason provides extremely accurate measurements of the sea level (to a few
centimetres with complimentary gravity data from the NASA GRACE mission),
while Argo provides measurement of salinity and temperature. This gives the
contribution of water density (derived from temperature and salinity) to sea level
which helps both validate Jason satellite data and also helps determine the
contribution of sea level due to changes in the density of the water as opposed
to extra water mass being added to (or removed from) the oceans such as that
due to melting (or formation) of land-based ice.
Cooperative Research Centre, the
Royal Australian Navy and the Department of Climate Change and Energy
Efficiency.
Worldwide, the Argo program is
sponsored by the World Climate
Research Programme’s Climate Variability and Predictability project (CLIVAR) and by the Global Ocean Data
Assimilation Experiment (GODAE). It
is a pilot project of the Global Ocean
Observing System (GOOS).
There are about six major manufacturers of floats plus some minor ones.
The Argo program does not specify
the exact design of each float but does
specify required performance data
such as accuracy, type of sensors and
float and battery life.
Since the exact specifications are
not defined it allows manufacturers to
come up with better, more efficient and
more capable designs and also allows
float costs to be reduced. A typical
float costs around $21,400 although
the total deployed cost including the
cost of the float, a ship to deploy the
float and staff is around $35,000.
Argo floats used in Australia are
disassembled and undergo a thorough check before deployment and
older models had their alkaline battery
packs replaced with lithium ones. As a
result of these pre-deployment checks,
July 2014 17
Fig.6: this diagram shows the global distribution of floats and country of origin. The US has the highest number of floats
(2000) while Australia has the second highest with 386. France has the third highest number of floats, with 256. Note that
these are representative locations for a certain point in time only as the floats do drift around.
Argo floats in the Australian fleet have
very good longevity.
The lifetime of older floats was
manufacturer-rated at 3.5-4.5 years
Fig.7: Argo data in its most basic
form, showing a plot of temperature
and salinity versus pressure (depth
in metres) for a given position in the
ocean.
18 Silicon Chip
but due to the battery upgrade they
have lasted up to 10 years. Currently
deployed floats have a typical lifetime of 7-8 years because of a more
complex mission profile and more
measurements being taken, resulting
in a reduced battery life.
This lifetime refers to time out in
the ocean before the batteries go flat
as the floats are not usually retrieved.
When the battery fails, the float is
usually unable to rise from its approximate 2000 metre depth as there
is insufficient battery capacity to reinflate the buoyancy bladder. There
it will remain indefinitely, never to
be retrieved.
Note that while failed Argo floats are
not usually retrieved due to the difficulty and expense of doing so (which
would exceed the value of the float),
if it comes to the attention of the Argo
organisation that one has come ashore
in an inhabited area or has actually
fallen into someone’s possession, it
is important that it is recovered. This
is because the large lithium-ion battery pack could be a safety hazard in
the wrong hands, especially if treated
inappropriately.
In addition, if traces of water have
Making
An Argo Globe
You can make your own world globe
in the form of an icosahedron showing
the location of Argo drifters for a given
day. The image can be found at: http://
www-sci.pac.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/data/
projects/argo/images/icosa.tif and
assembly instructions can be found
at: http://www.pac.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/
science/oceans/Argo/documents/
Argo_icos.pdf
entered the float, there could be an
explosive and toxic mix of hydrogen,
oxygen and chlorine gas, due to electrolysis of seawater by the battery.
Sensor accuracy
Since large amounts of scientific
data are derived from the floats and
that data is further incorporated into
climate, oceanographic and other
models, it is extremely important that
the float sensor data be as accurate
as possible. Temperature accuracy is
±0.002°C, salinity is within 0.02 parts
per thousand and pressure is within
2.4 decibars.
This is a very high level of accuracy
siliconchip.com.au
so scientists can have great confidence
in the results.
In regards to the missing Malaysian
Airways flight MH370, the floats obviously have no capability to directly
locate the wreckage. However, data
from the floats feeds into and is the
major contributor to the ocean current
models that were used to track and
predict the possible location of the
crash debris.
The most energy consuming process
in the floats is changing the buoyancy
to make the float rise or fall. Forcing
hydraulic fluid into an external bladder at a depth equivalent to 2000 decibars, or around 1975 metres (ie, where
Argo descends), requires a significant
amount of energy. At that depth the
pressure is around 200 atmospheres
(20 megapascals or 2900 psi).
Note that the exact depth where
2000 decibars occurs varies slightly
according to the latitude. It equates to
1971.7 metres at ±60° degrees latitude,
1976.1 metres at ±35° degrees latitude
and 1979.55 metres at the equator.
Accessing the data
Anyone, including SILICON CHIP
readers, can access the Argo data for
free and make their own discoveries.
A website at http://wo.jcommops.org/
cgi-bin/WebObjects/Argo has gateways
to the two global data centres and also
other information. The US Global Data
Center (the other is French) can be
accessed at http://www.usgodae.org/
argo/argo.html
Data for the Australian Argo array
can also be seen at: www.cmar.csiro.
au/argo/tech/index.html and www.
marine.csiro.au/~gronell/ArgoRT/
index.html
Fig.8: a typical Argo float mission. The float descends first to 1000m and then to
2000m, switches on its sensors and then floats to the surface so that the collected
data can be transmitted to a satellite. The satellite data is then downloaded to a
ground station.
Interestingly, in March 2013 the data
centres were hit with a huge number
of downloads involving computers
from all over the world and hundreds
of gigabytes of data. The reason was a
mystery until it was discovered that it
corresponded to the film “Argo” being
given three Academy Awards and people were looking for free downloads
of the movie. Naturally, they would
only have downloaded raw Argo data,
not video.
Recent developments
The Argo platform is very flexible
and as noted above, is not strictly
defined in terms of shape etc. This
allows floats to be developed with a
What Happens When They Float Ashore?
Occasionally, Argo floats wash up on
beaches or are otherwise found and it
can involve some real detective work to
track them down. The main reason for the
need to recover such floats is that the large
lithium battery inside them can be a safety
hazard in the wrong hands.
In one case, a float was deployed by
the San Diego-based Scripps Institution
of Oceanography near New Caledonia. It
failed to surface after about 18 months and
its last known location was off the coast
of Mooloolaba in Queensland.
It was then actually trawled by a fisherman who thought it would be a good idea
siliconchip.com.au
to turn it into a letterbox but it was spared
that fate due to the intervention of CSIRO
scientist Dr Ann Thresher who is in charge
of Argo Operations.
Once the float was brought to the surface by the fisherman, it started broadcasting its location again. The precise location
could be determined to only about a block
and Dr Thresher travelled from Hobart
to find it. She initially failed to do so and
decided to return home but then changed
her mind, more determined than ever to
recover it. She went to the yacht club and
then the fishing boats and after showing
a picture of the device eventually found
This photo shows the sensor head of
the float recovered off Queensland.
After spending 18 months on the sea
floor, it was fouled with barnacles.
the fishing boat crew that had retrieved it.
The device was then collected and
returned to the CSIRO for examination.
July 2014 19
Fig.9: how the Argo floats cope with surface ice. The float will only rise to the surface to transmit data if the surface is
ice-free, otherwise the data is stored until a break in the ice is detected. Contrary to what is shown in this diagram, in the
current operational scheme, if there is overhead ice detected the float descends again to about 1000 metres and continues
its 10-day mission cycle. As the floats used in such areas can store a large number of profiles, they can make many
attempts to surface (at intervals of 10 days) until success is achieved.
wide variety of sensors to suit different
applications. Newer floats may contain
oxygen sensors, transmissometers to
measure water turbidity (a measure
of the biological productivity of water), an FLBB device (fluorometer/
backscatter combination sensor) for
chlorophyll measurement and measurement of nitrates, and a variety of
other sensors.
In Australia, these new “Bio Argo”
floats will be deployed this year in
places such as the Bay of Bengal, as
part of an Australia-India collaboration and off the north-west coast of
Western Australia. These floats will
mainly work at a depth of 300 metres.
Incidentally, some of the more restrictive countries of the world will not
allow Argo floats that collect biological data into their oceanic territories,
presumably since it has implications
for fishing policies etc.
A particularly interesting sensor has
been developed that measures the electric field produced when (conducting)
seawater currents move through the
Earth’s magnetic field. This is usually
called motional induction. It allows
the direction and speed of ocean currents to be determined. The specific
type of Argo float that carries this
sensor package is called the EM-APEX
or ElectroMagnetic Autonomous Profiling Explorer.
The float contains a compass, accelerometers, magnetometers and a
processing system to convert voltage
differences measured by sensor electrodes to velocity components of the
ocean current. This float also measures
salinity, temperature and pressure, as
do the other floats.
Coping with ice
Looking into the future, a number of
Converting Pressure To Depth
Based on UNESCO Technical Papers in Marine Science No. 44, gravity at a specific
latitude and pressure is given by the following empirical, computationally-friendly
equations:
g (m/sec2) = 9.780318 * [ 1.0 + ( 5.2788 * 10-3 + 2.36 * 10-5 * x ) * x ] + 1.092 * 10-6 * p
where x = [sin (latitude ÷ 57.29578) ]2 and p = pressure (decibars)
Depth is calculated from pressure as follows:
depth (metres) = [(((-1.82 * 10-15 * p + 2.279 * 10-10)
9.72659) * p] ÷ g
where p = pressure (decibars) and g = gravity (m/sec2)
-5
* p - 2.2512 * 10 ) * p +
These formulae assume a certain water temperature and salinity. In reality, the
difference between depth in metres and decibars is so small as to be of little practical
significance.
20 Silicon Chip
new varieties of Argo are envisaged.
Bio Argo has already been mentioned.
As stated, the initial deployment model for Argo excluded the high-latitude
regions because of the possibility of
entanglement and destruction in the
sea ice. These issues have now been
resolved with new ice-hardened floats
with features such as antennas that
are resistant to ice and also methods
of detecting overhead ice.
Overhead ice can be avoided by
the float sensing a temperature close
to the surface consistent with sea ice
and then descending again if ice is
expected. The float can stay submerged
for a long time if necessary as numerous data sets can be stored and then
transmitted to the Iridium satellites.
Australia has deployed 29 floats in
the seasonal ice region of Australia’s
section of the Southern Ocean.
Other future planned developments
include a total fleet of 4500 floats and
deep-profiling floats that go to 4500 or
6000 metres.
Argo is providing unprecedented
amounts of information about the
ocean environment. It is a major part
of the world’s ocean observing system.
Among many other things, it should
increase the power of predictive models of short-term and long-term climate
forecasting, patterns of ocean currents
and present and future trends in the
global climate, as well as provide information on the interaction of both
the shallow and deeper ocean with
the atmosphere.
New developments also allow monitoring of the biological productivity
siliconchip.com.au
Doppler effect
The Argos
System
Satellites
received frequency
received frequency >
transmitted frequency
time
received frequency <
transmitted frequency
Doppler
curve
O
LDER AUSTRALIAN Argo floats
transmit their data via the Argos
System satellites. While the names are
similar, there is no direct relationship between the two programs, apart from the
fact that Argo uses the general purpose
Argos satellite system. These satellites
are designed to receive and disseminate
data of a primarily environmental nature
from both fixed and mobile platforms
around the world.
Applications include but are not limited to:
• Tracking land and marine wildlife
such as sea turtles, fish, birds and land
animals fitted with miniature transmitters;
• Receiving environmental data from
fixed and floating marine platforms
(manned and unmanned);
• Monitoring of disease outbreaks, food
shortages, therapeutic drug availability
and humanitarian aid resource utilisation
in Third World countries (via aid-worker
mobile data terminals). This data is relevant to public health and aid authorities
and the system can even monitor school
attendance rates;
• Monitoring the climate via Argo and
many other floats and buoys;
• Monitoring of global water resources
such as river levels, snow fall, dams
and the status of water distribution
infrastructure;
• Monitoring fishing vessels via transmitters installed on them to ensure compliance with national and international
fishing agreements;
• Tracking of adventurers in extreme
environments and international yacht
races;
• Improving maritime security by allowing shipping operators to keep constant
track of their fleets, with all ships of over
500 tonnes gross being required by the
of the ocean which might lead to new
sources of sustainable fishing and
other marine food sources (and may
also indicate where these resources
siliconchip.com.au
Satellite
Satellite
orbit
going away
er
g clos
gettin
Argos
transmitter
Fig.10: diagram showing the direction of Doppler shift as an Argos satellite
approaches and then retreats from a transmitter.
International Maritime Organisation
(IMO) to have a Ship Security Alert
System (SSAS) installed.
Argos satellites are able to receive
location data from GPS equipped transmitters but can also compute position
data from platforms not equipped with
GPS by utilising the Doppler shift of
several received signals over a period
of time. This is the same technique by
which the rough location of the missing
Malaysian Airlines Flight MH370 was
determined. In practice, locations can
be determined with an accuracy of 150
metres using Doppler shift as opposed
to a few metres with GPS.
In Doppler location, the Argos satellite records the precise frequency of
the received signal for every message
received. Several messages need to be
received in order to obtain a positional
fix in order to generate a Doppler shift
‘profile’ of how the frequency changes
as the satellite first approaches and then
recedes from the transmitter.
are being depleted, to give fisheries a
rest). Other benefits of Argo are that
it fosters international collaboration
and helps in the development of global
At some point in the frequency versus
time profile there is an inflection point representing the true transmitter frequency.
The orbit of the satellite is known, as is
the altitude of the transmitter, leaving the
latitude, longitude and the true transmission frequency of the signal unknown for
each transmission. These unknowns can
be determined with two or three messages but a fourth message is required
to completely solve the equations and
determine the positional accuracy.
The solution to the equations provides
two possible locations and then plausibility tests are used to determine the actual
location as one solution will most likely
represent an unrealistic position of the
platform.
The latest Argos-3 satellites represent
a significant improvement over previous
versions and have 2-way communication,
better transmission management (eg,
acknowledgement that data was correctly received) and the possibility of platform
remote control and programming.
environmental information databases.
It is widely supported internationally,
Australia is a major player and the
SC
future looks very bright.
July 2014 21
AmScope
Stereo Microscope
a boon for working with surface-mount devices
How you do cope with assembling PCBs with surface-mount devices? You
can always inspect the solder joints with a magnifying glass after they
have been made. Or perhaps you use a large illuminated magnifying glass
while you solder. But the “deluxe” way is to use a stereo microscope.
T
hese days it is more or less impossible to avoid surface-mount
technology if you are involved
in building or repairing electronics.
Almost all the really interesting devices seem to be available only in finepitch or leadless packages. Rather than
fight this trend, I have been working
quite happily with SMT technology
22 Silicon Chip
for many years and have developed
an armoury of tools and techniques to
cope with most of the packages those
devious chip designers can dream up.
One of these tools was a very cheap,
hand-held USB microscope.
Review by Andrew Levido
This was handy for inspecting joints
or looking for solder bridges but it was
not practical to use while soldering
since the working distance (the distance between the work piece and the
lens) was only around 20mm and there
was a considerable lag in the video.
Thus, I tended to do most of my SMT
work without magnification.
siliconchip.com.au
Viewing your work through the eyepieces then moving your soldering tool to
the same place takes a bit of getting used to – but after a couple of hours, it does
become second nature. The microscope is perfect for surface-mount devices.
Recently, after spending an afternoon hunched over the bench with my
face only centimetres from a PCB, the
crick in my neck told me something
had to be done. I hit the ’net to see
what the options were.
I steered away from video microscopes because I was wary of the video
lag effect. I therefore narrowed my
search down to optical stereo microscopes with a wide field of view and
a good working distance.
Incidentally, I should point out
the difference between a compound
microscope (the type you might have
used in science at school) and a stereo
microscope. A compound microscope
may have one or two eyepieces but
has a single objective lens close to the
object being examined. Often there are
several objective lenses mounted on
a turret but only one is in the optical
path any time.
Compound microscopes offer high
magnifications (up to 1600x) but the
image is two-dimensional.
A stereo microscope, on the other
hand, has two completely separate
siliconchip.com.au
optical paths offering slightly different
views, resulting in a three dimensional
image. Magnification is usually lower
than for compound microscopes (less
than 100x).
What’s available?
There is a wide variety of options
out there, ranging from the top-ofthe-line Mantis Elite at nearly $3,000
to low cost “toy” microscopes under
$100.
After much searching I settled for a
microscope from the US-based online
retailer AmScope (www.amscope.
com). They offer a truly bewildering
array of microscope types and configurations. Ultimately I chose their SM4TX-144A microscope package. See
www.amscope.com/sm-4tx-144a.html
This is a trinocular microscope: as
well as two eyepieces, it has a third
optical port suitable for mounting a
camera. It has a magnification ranging
from 3.5x to 45x, continuously variable via a zoom knob, a wide field of
view at 65mm and a working distance
of 200mm.
It comes with a boom stand that allows the microscope to be moved in
and out of the workspace and a LED
ring light to illuminate the work surface. At about $US550 this seemed to
be a very reasonable package.
I went onto the website and placed
my order, only to discover the shipping
would be around $US360, bringing the
total to almost $1000 Aussie dollars
– right at the top end of what I was
prepared to spend.
Given that the package weighs over
30kg, there were no cheaper shipping
options.
I swallowed hard, entered my credit
card details, hit the go button and sat
back to wait. But a few days later I got
an email from AmScope explaining
that they did not accept foreign credit
cards, asking me to pay via their PayPal
account.
No problem here but it seems an
inefficient way to operate. They also
stated: “all of our items come standard
110V, if you need 220V please let us
know as there is a $5 fee for the upgrade”. Again, no big issue – but the
website could be a bit more friendly
to overseas purchasers.
A few weeks later two parcels duly
arrived, one containing the microscope head, the eye pieces, Barlow
lens, eye guards, a plastic dust cover,
the ring light and its control box. The
second box (which I could barely lift)
contained the parts for the boom stand.
This is truly a massive (30kg) piece of
hardware.
Caveat emptor!
By the way, there is an enormous
price range for the AmScope SM-4TX144A on the internet – and we’re not
sure why.
Some sources offer this microscope
for about the same net price as AmScope or even less: after ordering (of
The eyepieces have a rubber shroud
which can be extended, as shown
here, or collapsed for those of us who
are visually aided (ie, wear glasses!).
July 2014 23
The ring light control box is also
a bit disappointing and has a bit of
a home-made feel. It works fine but
the buttons feel cheap and the ring
light connector is a USB mini B type.
I don’t like the idea of using these
connectors for non-USB purposes in
commercial gear.
One day some “valued customer”
will plug a USB device into the control
box or the ring light into a USB device
with ugly consequences.
The control box does have a CE mark
label (although no US or Australian
approval marks), so I assume it is
reasonably well designed and made.
Using It
Included in the package is this ring LED worklight, absolutely essential for
illuminating the subject, along with its power supply/controller. We have just a
few reservations about the quality – but it works!
course!) we found one site selling
for $US520 with $US53 shipping to
Australia (~$AU600).
But there are others selling for much
more (eg, >$AU1350 inc shipping)
with no apparent “extras”.
You can order this scope through
amazon.com (“sold and shipped
by AmScope”) which suggests a
$US499.98 ($AU537) including postage. But when you go through the cart
process to order one, you’re likely to
find that they either “will not supply
to your geographic area” or the “free
postage” suddenly becomes not quiteso-free.
That same site adds a “per shipment” charge of $US29.00 and a “per
weight” charge of $US8.99 per pound
– and the AmScope website states a
shipping weight of 68 pounds.
So that free postage could equate to
$US611 or more than $AU650! So if
you order on line, shop around, check
the fine print and watch for any emails
from the supplier.
In the end, I was happy that I ordered it from AmScope direct (and
the security that provides) even if I
did pay a premium.
Assembly . . . instructions?
The assembly instructions are pretty
rudimentary and I found it easier to use
a photograph from the website rather
than the provided booklet to assemble
the stand.
Otherwise, assembling the microscope head is fairly foolproof with
24 Silicon Chip
the two eyepieces dropping in place
and the Barlow lens screwing onto
the objective lens at the bottom. The
ring light is attached by three radial
thumbscrews to a supplied collar that
is screwed on to the Barlow lens.
Incidentally, the Barlow lens is used
to increase the working distance at the
expense of magnification. In the case of
my microscope, the Barlow lens doubles the working distance and halves
the magnification. If it is removed, the
maximum magnification increase to
90x but the working distance is only
100mm.
The ring light is worthy of comment
as it contains no less than 144 LEDs
arranged in concentric rings. The controller allows the LEDs to be dimmed
and also for separate control of each
quadrant. This is handy if you want to
light from one side only (for example
to read those pesky black-on-black IC
markings).
The ring light and its control box
are shown above. Note the (mis)use
of a USB connector and the US mains
cable. The photo opposite shows two
of the four segments illuminated.
One surprise was that my five-dollar
“220V upgrade” consisted of an unapproved Chinese power adaptor so I
could plug the supplied US-style 2-pin
mains plug into an Aussie socket.
Pretty dumb really, since the mains
cable connects to the light control box
via a shaver-style cord. It would have
been better (and safer) if they had
simply packed an Australian cable.
Apart from a bit of playing about, the
first intensive use of the microscope
was to construct the prototypes for the
Audio Recorder published in the May
and June 2014 issues of SILICON CHIP.
This required five or six hours of intensive SMT work including soldering
0.5mm pitch TQFP microcontrollers
and a 3mm x 3mm leadless pack, also
with 0.5mm pitch.
Although it took a few minutes to
get used to the idea of looking more
or less straight ahead, while my hands
were working down at bench level, I
quickly became a complete convert to
working with a microscope.
For most work, I kept the magnification quite modest, with the greatest
benefit being improved posture and
zero eyestrain. I think the consistency
of my solder joints was also improved.
The microscope really came into its
own when checking for solder bridges
between pins or to check that a pin had
properly reflowed.
By increasing the magnification,
those tiny 0.25mm gaps between pins
became yawning chasms and any soldering faults were rendered blindingly
obvious. I was even able to tilt the
microscope 45º to look at the edges
of the leadless packages to see if the
solder had reflowed properly.
As mentioned above, the ring light
has plenty of modes but in practice
I used it with all segments on and at
close to full brightness almost all the
time. The ring light is essential since
without it the microscope image is
almost unusable, despite my having
a very bright lab.
I found the working distance to be
completely adequate and never felt
constrained by the presence of the
microscope while using the soldering
siliconchip.com.au
Helping to put you in Control
N480D PID Controller
Low-cost PID controller that
accepts T/C & RTD input, 3
relay outputs & 1 pulse output
for driving SSRs. Auto-tuning
PID function, dual display &
ramps soak function. 240 VAC
powered.
SKU: CET-052
Price:$79+GST
Wireless Freezer Thermometer
FT0076 is an 8 channel
wireless thermometer
suitable for monitoring
temperature of freezers.
It has temp accuracy of
± 1 °C. Comes with 2 remotes & up to 8
sensors can be added, plus alarm configuration. 100 m transmission range. Batteries
not included.
SKU: UTS-005
Price:$85+GST
Here’s that same LED ringlight in action. It simply clips to the bottom of the
Barlow lens (also supplied) and can be varied in brightness as well as in the
segments illuminated. We tend to use it with all four on and flat out!
iron or any of my usual tools.
The field of view was also fine but
there was an unusual side effect of
viewing the work through what is
effectively a 65mm diameter hole. I
would tend not to lift my eyes from
the eyepieces to grab the soldering
iron, for example, and then fail to be
able to bring it to the “hole”.
The answer of course, is to only look
through the microscope once your
tools are nearly in position, but this
took a little practice.
One other pleasing feature compared to the old USB microscope I used
to use was the true three-dimensional
nature of the image. You can really
see the way the solder fillet runs up
the end of a SMT capacitor, for example. The depth of field is adequate at
about 5 or 6mm for typical levels of
magnification.
Once you start using the microscope, you really begin to appreciate
that heavy stand that cost so much to
ship. The horizontal movement is very
smooth and the solid construction and
heavy counterweights mean that the
microscope remains rock solid even
at the fullest extension.
This means you can push the microscope right out of the way when you
don’t need it, but pull it into place in
a couple of seconds.
I wear spectacles all the time and
I was a little concerned how these
would work with the eyepieces since
I have had trouble with microscopes
and telescopes before. I need not
siliconchip.com.au
have worried, since the rubber eye
guards (in their folded-down position)
worked perfectly with my glasses.
These eye guards also fold up for those
lucky enough to have perfect vision.
Conclusion
On balance, the AmScope SM-4TX144A is a great tool for anyone regularly using surface mount components
– and that’s most of us these days.
It is easy to use and will in all
probability significantly improve the
quality of the work you can do, and
give you the ability to tackle the very
fine pitch, leadless, and miniscule
components that seem to be the norm
these days.
I think that the manufacturer could
easily do a little more to make things
easier for non-US purchasers, by improving the website, fixing the “220V
upgrade” and most importantly optimising the freight.
If I have a criticism it is the poor
documentation and the barely adequate quality of the ring light power
supply.
At around $1000 delivered, it is an
investment on par with an entry-level
oscilloscope or a top quality soldering
station, so not one to be made lightly.
Nevertheless, I am a complete convert, and would recommend a stereo
microscope if you are doing a lot of
SMT work.
For further information, go to the
Amscope website at www.amscope.
com
SC
Limit Switch
Roller adjustable lever type limit
switch comes in a solid IP67 die
cast cast with LED operation
indicator. It is designed to for
high mechanical intensity environments where it is exposed to
heat, oil & dust. 24 VDC powered.
SKU: HNR-402
Price:$49.95+GST
Warning Red Light
Simple round cap, wall mount
warning red light with PIR sensor
that turns on light when motion
is detected. It features 4 selectable melody tones that are rated
to 90 dB. 24 VDC/AC powered.
SKU: HNL-101
Price:$89.50+GST
4 Channel Temp Logger
Serial port powered, temp
data is output as a continuous
data stream over an RS-232
serial port. Supports up to
4 x DS18S20 sensor, only 1
is included. PC software is
provided for logging data to a
CSV file.
SKU: KTA-145
Price:$25+GST
Ethernet Serial Server
Connects an RS-232, RS422 or RS-485 serial signal
to an ethernet network.
10/100 Mbps ethernet supported. SE5001 offers fullduplex and bi-directional
data that is transmission
transparent between the serial port and the
Ethernet network. DE-9 serial port. 5 to 30
VDC powered.
SKU: ATO-101
Price:$129+GST
GSM Wireless Home Alarm Kit
Home or office wireless
alarm kit with base unit,
wireless PIR and door sensor, strobe siren, 12 VDC
plugpack and two keyfob
remotes. GSM functions allow notifications to be sent
to your mobile phone.
SKU: KPR-100
Price:$249+GST
For OEM/Wholesale prices
Contact Ocean Controls
Ph: (03) 9782 5882
oceancontrols.com.au
July 2014 25
Threshold Voltage S
A simple but versatile device to switch a relay
input voltage crosses a preset threshold
This versatile Threshold Voltage Switch takes the output of an analog
sensor, battery voltage or other varying voltage and switches power
to a fan, warning light or similar when a preset threshold voltage is
reached. It can be set up for use with a 5V, 12V or 24V supply. It can
also be used to prevent a lead-acid battery from being over-charged.
T
HIS IS a considerably enhanced
version of the Voltage Switch
project presented in our 2004 publication, “Performance Electronics for
Cars”. That has been a very popular
project but feedback from readers over
the intervening years has suggested a
number of improvements which have
now been incorporated.
When monitoring a sensor or any DC
voltage signal, you may wish to switch
power to a load on or off when a set
voltage is reached. This means that
at a particular temperature, pressure,
fuel mixture or battery voltage, you
can switch power to drive a cooling
fan, a warning light, battery charging
circuit or whatever you fancy.
Switching is done via a relay that
26 Silicon Chip
can handle a relatively high current.
The relay also provides isolation between the Threshold Voltage Switch
sensing circuitry and the load it controls. So there is no requirement to
power the Threshold Voltage Switch
(TVS) from the same power supply as
the load it controls.
It also does not matter where you
put the relay contacts within the load
circuit. So the relay can switch the
positive or negative supply to the load,
as depicted in Fig.1.
Fig.1A shows the load’s ground
connection being switched while
Fig.1B shows the switch in the positive supply connection. Either way, the
effect is the same but it may be more
convenient or even a requirement to
switch one or the other, depending on
your application.
The relay can be switched on when
the sensed voltage rises above a preset
value or when it falls below the preset
value. This is selected by links on the
PCB.
Circuit description
Fig.2 shows the complete circuit for
the Threshold Voltage Switch (TVS).
It comprises two ICs, a 3-terminal
regulator, the relay and a few other
components.
Op amp IC1a is wired as voltage
comparator to monitor the input (signal) voltage and compare it against a
threshold voltage. The input voltage is
fed via a 470kΩ resistor to pin 2, the
siliconchip.com.au
By JOHN CLARKE
Main Features
• Operates from 5-24V DC (nominal, 30V maximum)
• Adjustable trigger threshold
• Trigger on high or low voltage
• Output state indicator LEDs
• Multiple relay options, up to 60A SPDT or 10A DPDT
Specifications
Power Supply: 5-30V.
Current Drain: <1mA with indicator LEDs off (LK4 out), relay off and VR2 set to
>100kΩ. With the relay on, the current is dependent on the coil resistance.
Signal Input Impedance: 470kΩ minimum.
Trigger Threshold: adjustable.
Input Divider: divide by 1 (LK1 out) or divide by greater than 5.7 (LK1 in).
witch
when an
inverting input, while the threshold
comparison voltage is fed to pin 3.
If the required voltage threshold is
above 3.3V, you will need to attenuate the input voltage and this is done
by inserting link LK1. The amount
of attenuation is then adjusted with
multi-turn trimpot VR1.
A 3.3V reference voltage is provided
by REG1, an LM2936 low quiescent
current, low-dropout regulator which
is fed from the V+ supply rail. It feeds
trimpot VR3 and in turn, its wiper
voltage is fed to IC1b which acts as a
low impedance buffer to provide the
reference voltage to pin 3 of IC1a.
Trimpot VR2 adjusts the hysteresis
of comparator IC1a. Hysteresis can
be regarded as positive feedback and
it reduces the sensitivity of the comparator to short term variations in the
input voltage.
To explain further, say the threshold
voltage at pin 3 is 3V and the sensed
voltage at pin 2 goes slightly above 3V,
resulting in the comparator’s output
going low. The feedback connection
from output pin 1 to pin 3 means that
siliconchip.com.au
Hysteresis For No Input Attenuation: ~5mV-2.5V for 5V supply; ~12mV-6V
for 12V supply.
Hysteresis For 10:1 Input Attenuation: ~50mV minimum for 5V supply;
~120mV minimum for 12V supply.
Maximum Switching Voltage: 60V DC/40VAC for on-board relay; limited by
contact ratings for off-board relay.
the voltage at pin 3 is pulled slightly
lower than it was before pin 1 flicked
low. That means that the sensed voltage at pin 2 will have to drop somewhat below 3V to cause the comparator
to change state again. So the output
will not switch again immediately if
there is only a slight drop in the voltage
at pin 2 immediately after the output
switches.
Conversely, when IC1a’s output goes
high (near V+) in response to a dropping voltage at pin 2 of IC1a, pin 3 is
instead pulled higher than before and
pin 2 will have to rise by an increased
amount to switch the comparator’s
output low again. So the threshold
voltage for IC1a varies depending on
the output of IC1a.
In practical terms, hysteresis prevents the relay from ‘chattering’ on and
off when the sensed voltage is close to
the voltage threshold. It also stops the
+
circuit from switching on and off every
few seconds. Say for example, you
want a fan to cool a heatsink whenever
the temperature reaches 60°C. As the
temperature sensor reaches 60°C, the
fan will run and almost immediately
the temperature will drop by a small
amount.
This means that, without hysteresis,
the fan might run for a less than a
second before switching off and then
a second or so later, it will be on again
as the 60°C threshold is reached. By
adding hysteresis, the fan can be set to
start running at 60°C but only switch
off at say 55°C. That way, the fan will
run for longer, preventing rapid on
and off cycling.
When setting the threshold voltage
for IC1a, we monitor test point TP2.
This actually allows us to set the two
switching thresholds: one when IC1a’s
output is high and the second when its
+
RELAY
CONTACTS
LOAD
B
A
LOAD
RELAY
CONTACTS
–
–
Fig.1: the relay can switch either the positive or negative supply lead to
the load. Fig.1A shows the load’s ground connection being switched while
Fig.1B shows the relay contacts in the positive supply lead.
July 2014 27
Parts List
1 double-sided PCB with
plated-through holes, code
99106141, 107 x 61mm
1 UB3 plastic utility case, 130 x
68 x 44mm (optional)
1 12V DPDT relay (RELAY1)
(Altronics 8A S4190D or lowprofile S4270A, Jaycar 5A
SY-4052)*
2 2-way PCB-mount screw term
inals, 5.08mm spacing (CON1)
2 3-way PCB-mount screw term
inals, 5.08mm spacing (CON2)#
2 8-pin DIL IC sockets (optional)
5 2-way SIL pin headers with
2.54mm pin spacings (LK1,
LK2, LK4, LK5a & LK5b)
1 3-way SIL pin header with
2.54mm pin spacing (LK3)
6 jumper shunts (shorting blocks)
3 PC stakes (TP GND,TP1,TP2)
1 M3 x 6mm machine screw & nut
1 1N4004 1A diode (D3)
1 1N5819 Schottky diode (D4)
1 1N4744 15V zener diode (ZD1)
(two required for 24V supply)
2 3mm red LEDs (LED1,LED2)
1 3mm green LEDs (LED3)
2 100kΩ 25-turn trimpots
(VR1,VR3)
1 1MΩ 25-turn trimpot (VR2)
Semiconductors
1 LMC6482AIN dual CMOS op
amp (IC1)
1 7555 CMOS timer (IC2)
1 BC337 NPN transistor (Q1)
1 BC327 PNP transistor (Q2)
1 IRF540 N-channel Mosfet (Q3)
1 LM2936-3.3 3.3V regulator
(REG1) (Jaycar ZV1650)
2 1N4148 small signal diodes
(D1,D2)
Notes
* see text and Table 1 for other
relay options.
# not required if an off-board
relay is used; two PCB-mount
vertical spade connectors plus
matching crimp connectors are
required instead.
^ For 5V supply, delete 1 x 100Ω
resistor and add 1 x 10Ω; for
24V supply use 220Ω 0.5W.
output is low. The threshold measurement is made between test points TP2
and TP GND.
IC2, a CMOS 7555 timer, is used as
an inverter and its pin 3 output goes
to one side of 3-way header LK3. Depending on how link LK3 is set, the
gate drive for Mosfet Q3 can come
from either pin 1 of IC1a or pin 3 of
IC2. This means that the relay can be
turned on when the input voltage exceeds the threshold (LK3 set to HIGH)
or when the input voltage goes below
the threshold (LK3 to LOW).
As shown, the HIGH setting selects
the output from IC2 while the low setting selects IC1a’s output. The selected
output then drives Mosfet Q3 via a
100Ω gate resistor. When Q3’s gate goes
high, Q3 turns on and powers the relay
coil. LED3 (green) is also lit whenever
Q3 is switched on.
Note that although Q3 isn’t a logiclevel Mosfet, it’s suitable for use with
a 5V supply which results in the Mosfet gate drive being less than 5V. We
have specified an IRF540 Mosfet for
this reason – it doesn’t need to fully
saturate as it’s only switching a small
current (the relay coil current).
28 Silicon Chip
Capacitors
1 100µF 16V radial electrolytic
1 22µF 16V radial electrolytic
1 1µF 16V radial electrolytic
5 100nF MKT
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
1 470kΩ
3 3.3kΩ (0.5W)
2 1kΩ
2 100Ω^
Plus R1 (5W) if required (see text)
Output indication
LED1 and LED2 are used to indicate
IC2’s output level and are selected by
links LK5a & LK5b. They simply indicate whether the input signal is above
or below the threshold voltage. LED1
is driven by NPN emitter-follower
transistor Q1 while LED2 is driven by
PNP emitter-follower Q2.
In operation, LED1 lights when the
input is greater than the threshold,
while LED2 lights when the input is
less than the threshold. After setting
up the threshold adjustments, the two
LK5 jumper shunts can be removed
so that these LEDs no longer light.
This reduces the current drain of the
circuit which can be useful in situations where current drain must be
minimised.
Supply voltage
The circuit can be operated from
supply voltages ranging from 5-30V.
Most of the circuit is fed via Schottky
diode D4 while the relay is directly
powered from the input supply.
D4 is included for reverse polarity
protection. It’s followed by a 100Ω
resistor (R2), while zener diode ZD1 is
included to clamp the supply to 15V.
ZD2 is used to drop the supply by
15V when a 24V supply is connected
while LK2 is used to short ZD2 out
if the supply voltage is below 15V. A
100µF electrolytic capacitor filters the
resultant supply.
Note that the 100Ω resistor (R2) in
series with D4 should be reduced to
10Ω if a 5V supply is used.
If the supply voltage is significantly
more than the voltage rating of the relay, it will need a resistor in series with
the coil. This is shown on the circuit
as R1. As previously stated, the relay
is driven by Mosfet Q3. If the voltage
rating of the relay coil is close to the
supply voltage, resistor R1 is omitted
and link LK4 inserted instead.
Do not be concerned about the normal voltage variation which can be
expected from 12V or 24V lead-acid
batteries. A 12V battery may go as high
as 14.8V while being charged while a
24V battery can go to 29.6V. Both 12V
and 24V relays can cope with this variation and there is no need for a series
dropping resistor.
Diode D3 and its associated 100nF
capacitor suppress the back-EMF
transient when the relay switches off.
Construction
The Threshold Voltage Switch is
built on a double-sided PCB coded
99106141 and measuring 107 x 61mm.
This is designed to clip into the side
channels of a plastic UB3 box (130 x
68 x 44mm), with the external leads
exiting via a cable gland.
The UB3 box is optional, however.
Depending on the application, it may
be more convenient to house the PCB
inside existing equipment.
Fig.3 shows the parts layout on the
PCB. Begin by inspecting the PCB
for any defects (rare these days) and
checking that the hole sizes for the
larger parts are correct. If this checks
out, the next step is to select the relay
siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
July 2014 29
IN
22 µF
VR3
100k
100nF
THRESHOLD
A
TP2
A
K
6
5
BUFFER
4
IC1b
7
1k
E
C
λ
A
K
2
6
7
B
1
IC2
7555
8
5
3
K
A
D1
1N4148
INVERTER
4
100nF
THRESHOLD
INDICATION
LK5a
RELAY
LED3
3.3k
A
K
ZD1, ZD2
A
K
1N5819
K
A
K
A
1N4148
3.3k
1N4004
LED1
Q1
BC337
100 µF
16V
INPUT>THRESHOLD
1
100nF
V+
COMPARATOR
HYSTERESIS
IC1a
8
VR2 1M
3
2
1k
TP1
ZD1*
15V
1W
LK2 OUT
FOR 24V
IC1: LMC6482AIN
1 µF
16V
* SEE TEXT
ZD2 15V 1W
K
LK2
LK5b
LOW
HIGH
K
λ
A
IN
E
K
A
K
C
GND
OUT
LM 29 36-3.3
B
BC 32 7 , BC337
A
D2
1N4148
V+
100Ω
B
R1
SHUNT
LK4
D3
1N4004
LEVEL
LK3
100nF
# SEE TEXT
K
A
G
G
C
E
D
S
LEDS
IRF540
K
A
Q2
BC327
D
NO
COM
NC
NC
COM
NO
CON2#
INPUT<THRESHOLD
Q3
IRF540
λ LED2
3.3k
S
D
R1
5W#
RELAY1, RELAY2
OR RELAY3#
Fig.2: the complete circuit of the Threshold Voltage Switch. Op amp IC1 is wired as a voltage comparator and this compares the input (signal) voltage fed in
via CON1 with a threshold voltage set by REG1 & VR3 (and buffered by IC1b). IC2 operates as an inverter, while LK3 selects either the output from IC1a or
IC2 to drive Mosfet Q3. Q3 is turn switches the relay. LED1 & LED2 provide threshold switching indication, while LED3 indicates when the relay is on.
20 1 4
GND
OUT
VR1
100k
LK1
(10 Ω FOR 5V PWR)
DIVIDE
K
R2
100Ω
THRESHOLD VOLTAGE SWITCH
100nF
SC
V+
470k
TP GND
REG1 LM2936-3.3
CON1
SIGNAL
IN –
+
+
POWER
IN –
A
D4
1N5819
IN > SET
Q1 A
LED1
100nF
THRESHOLD
NO
NC
3.3k
LED3
SHUNT R1
LK4 *
D3
COIL
COIL
C
NO
NC
C
3.3k
1k
IC2
7555
LMC6482
IC1
470k
3.3k
4004
RELAY1
LOW
LEVEL
100nF
22 µF
HYSTERESIS
COM
RELAY2
A
C
(TRIMPOTS)
REG1
NC
ON CN
IN 0V
INPUT
TP1
CON2
NO
COIL
(IN FOR VR1 100k 100nF
LM2936-3.3
DIVIDE)
DIVIDER
RELAY3
IN < SET
100nF
100Ω
1k
TP2
HIGH
VR2 1M VR3 100k
LK3
LK1*
LED2
Q2 A
100nF
1 µF
R1*
C
0V
SUPPLY
LEVEL
TEST
BC337
4148
100 µF
BC327
4148
ZD1
15V
LK5a,b
D2
ON CN
CON1
+
15V
5819
D4
LK2*
100Ω
TP GND
10Ω FOR 5V
* SEE TEXT
D1
R2* ZD2*
NOTE: ONBOARD RELAY
MAXIMUM: 60V DC/40VAC
Q3
IRF540
C 2014
99106141
1 4 1 6 0 1 9 9 VOLTAGE
h ctiSWITCH
wS egatloV
Fig.3: follow this diagram to build the TVS with an on-board relay. Install LK1 to divide
the input signal, remove LK2 and install ZD2 for a 24V supply and install LK4 if the supply
voltage doesn’t exceed the relay rating (see text). LK3 selects high or low threshold triggering.
to be used from Table 3 (near the end
of this article).
Choosing the relay
Basically, there are several different
relays that can be used with the TVS.
The overlay shows a standard 12V
DPDT relay set up. It’s just a matter
of selecting a relay that suits your
application.
Note that LK4 is fitted for most relays. However, if the supply voltage
exceeds the voltage rating of the relay
to be used, then LK4 is left out and
5W resistor R1 is fitted instead. R1 is
wired in series with the relay coil to
drop the voltage.
The value required for R1 is easily
calculated. For example, if the relay
coil is rated at half the supply voltage
(eg, a 12V relay with a nominal 24V
supply), then the resistor needs to have
about the same resistance as the relay
coil. In other cases, you can calculate
the required value for R1 as follows:
(1) subtract the relay coil voltage from
the power supply voltage and multiply
the result by the coil resistance;
(2) divide the result obtained in step 1
by the relay coil voltage to obtain the
resistor value required.
For example, to run a 12V relay with
a coil resistance of 120Ω from an 18V
supply, you will need a 60Ω 5W series
resistor. This is calculated as ((18 - 12)
x 120Ω) ÷ 12. If the calculated value
is not a standard 5W resistor value,
choose the next highest available
value. As stated earlier, for a 5V supply, resistor R2 must be 10Ω.
voltage always exceeds the sum of the
values of ZD1 and ZD2, but ZD1 must
be between 5.1V and 15V. Resistor R2
can remain at 100Ω 0.5W for a 12V
supply but should be changed to 220Ω
0.5W for a 24V supply.
Installing the parts
Once you’ve decided on the relay
and supply regulation option, you can
begin installing the parts on the PCB.
The resistors, diodes and zener diodes
can go in first. Table 1 shows the resistor colour codes but a digital multimeter should also be used to check each
resistor before soldering it into place.
Make sure that the diodes and zener
diodes are installed with the correct
polarity, ie, with the striped end of
each device orientated as shown on
Fig.3. Note that ZD2 is not required if
you intend using a supply of 12V or
less (LK2 is fitted later instead).
The three PC stakes can go in next,
one at TP GND and the others at TP1
& TP2. Follow these with Mosfet Q1 –
it’s mounted horizontally and secured
to the PCB using an M3 x 6mm screw
and nut. Bend its leads at right angles
before mounting it into position and be
sure to fasten its tab to the PCB before
soldering the leads.
Regulating the supply
By carefully choosing the values
for ZD1 & ZD2, the supply for IC1
can be regulated. However, this is
only required if the threshold voltage
must have a very high precision, ie,
the swing in the input voltage being
monitored is below 100mV. The 3.3V
reference is quite stable but it will vary
by about 1mV for each 1V variation in
the V+ rail.
Another reason for a regulated supply is that it makes for a more consistent hysteresis voltage.
For example, if a 12V lead-acid
battery is used to power the TVS, the
supply can vary from 11.5-14.8V. In
that case, changing ZD1 to 10V will
minimise any change in the threshold
or hysteresis as the supply varies.
Similarly, for a 24V battery, both
ZD1 and ZD2 can be 10V types. The
point is to ensure that the supply
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
No.
1
3
2
2
30 Silicon Chip
Value
470kΩ
3.3kΩ
1kΩ
100Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
yellow violet yellow brown
orange orange red brown
brown black red brown
brown black brown brown
5-Band Code (1%)
yellow violet black orange brown
orange orange black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
brown black black black brown
siliconchip.com.au
Maximum Switching
Voltages For The TVS
Although its contacts may be rated
higher, the maximum switching voltage for the on-board relay is 60V DC
or 40VAC. Do not try to switch mains
voltages using an on-board relay,
as the tracks on the PCB are too
close together.
If you do want to switch mains, you
will need to use an off-board relay that
has contacts rated for 230VAC. Many
will be rated for 230VAC but those
designed for automotive applications
(eg, horn relays) will not be.
REG1, Q1 & Q2 are next on the list.
Be sure to use the correct device at
each location and note particularly
that Q1 is a BC337 while Q2 is a BC327
(don’t get them mixed up). IC1 & IC2
can then go in, again taking care not
to get them mixed up and making sure
that they are orientated as shown (ie,
pin 1 at top left). They can either be
soldered directly to the PCB or you
can use IC sockets.
Now for the capacitors. The electrolytic types must be installed with
the polarity shown (the longer lead
being positive), while the MKT capacitors can be mounted either way
around. Once these parts are in, you
can fit the various pin headers for the
jumper links.
LK1, LK2, LK4, LK5a & LK5b all
require 2-way pin headers. Note that
the LK4 header must not be installed if
resistor R1 is to be fitted. 3-pin header
LK3 should also be fitted now.
of the PCB. Make sure that each LED
is orientated correctly, with its anode
lead (the longer of the two) going to the
pad marked ‘A’. A cardboard spacer
slid between the leads of each LED
when soldering can be used to ensure
consistent lead lengths.
Alternatively, if you want the LEDs
to later protrude through the lid of
the case, then it will be necessary to
extend their leads and sleeve them in
heatshrink tubing. You could also glue
them to the lid and connect them to the
PCB via flying leads; you could even fit
pin headers in their place and use flying leads terminated in header plugs.
Trimpots VR1-VR3 are straightforward to install. Use the 1MΩ trimpot
(code 105) for VR2 and be sure to
install them with the adjusting screws
to the left.
Now for the screw terminal blocks.
CON1 consists of two 2-way terminal
blocks and these must be dovetailed
together before fitting them to the PCB.
Push them all the way down onto the
board and check that the wire entry
holes are facing outwards before soldering the pins.
CON2 is required if you intend using a PCB-mounted relay. It consists
of three 2-way (or two 3-way) terminal
blocks and again check that it sits flush
against the PCB and is orientated correctly before soldering the pins.
Alternatively, if an external relay
with quick connectors it to be used,
then the two 6.35mm PCB-mount male
spade connectors will need to be installed. These are located just above Q3
and provide the relay coil connections.
look for incorrectly orientated parts,
parts in the wrong position and missed
solder joints. If all is correct, follow
this step-by-step procedure to configure the unit:
Step 1: if you are using a 12V or 5V
supply, install the jumper shunt for
LK2. Alternatively, for a 24V supply,
install zener diode ZD2 and leave
jumper shunt LK2 out.
Step 2: fit jumpers on LK5a and LK5b
so that LED1 & LED2 will work.
Step 3: fit a jumper on LK4 if R1 has
not been fitted.
Step 4: adjust trimpots VR1, VR2 &
VR3 clockwise until the end stop
clicks can be heard (note: these are
20-turn or 25-turn trimpots).
Step 5: apply power and check that
voltage is present between pins 8 & 4
of IC1. The actual voltage will depend
on the supply, zener diodes ZD1 and
ZD2 and whether ZD2 is bypassed.
If you are using a 12V supply and a
15V zener for ZD1 (LK2 in), IC1 should
have around 11.7V between pins 8 &
4. For a 5V supply, you should get a
reading of about 4.7V. And for a 24V
supply (ZD2 in and LK2 out), you
should get a reading of about 8.7V.
Configuration
Threshold adjustment
Once the PCB assembly has been
completed, go back over your work
and check it carefully. In particular,
The threshold voltage adjustment
is done as follows. Apply a voltage at
the level you want the TVS to switch
Input signal level adjustment
LK1 can be installed to allow the
input signal to be reduced if the voltage to be monitored is going to exceed
3.3V. To set VR1, apply a voltage similar to that you require for the threshold
(say 10V) to the input, switch on and
measure the voltage between TP1 and
TPG. Adjust VR1 to obtain less than
3.3V at TP1.
The PCB clips neatly into the slots
of a standard UB3 utility case.
LEDs & trimpots
The three LEDs can be pushed all the
way down onto the PCB or they can
be mounted a few millimetres proud
siliconchip.com.au
July 2014 31
Table 3: Relay Options For The TVS
TVS Supply Voltage:
5V (LK2 in)
12V (LK2 in)
24V (LK2 out, ZD2 installed**)
On-Board Relays (Maximum Switched Voltage = 60V DC or 40VAC)
1A DPDT PCB Mount (RELAY2)
Contact rating: 24V DC/40VAC
Altronics S 4147
Altronics S 4150
Altronics S 4152
5A DPDT PCB Mount (RELAY1)
Contact rating: 30V DC/40VAC
Jaycar SY-4052
Jaycar SY-4053
8A DPDT PCB Mount (RELAY1)
Contact rating: 30V DC/40VAC
Altronics S 4190D
Altronics S 4270A
Altronics S 4195D
Altronics S 4272
Off-Board Relays (Maximum Switched Voltage Limited By Relay Contacts)
30A (RELAY3)*
Contact rating: 14V DC/240VAC
Altronics S 4211 SPDT
Jaycar SY-4040 SPST
Use 12V relay. R1=180Ω (for S 4211), 120Ω
(for SY-4040) 5W, LK6 out
30A SPST Horn Relay*
Contact rating: 14V DC
Altronics S 4335A
Jaycar SY-4068
Altronics S 4332
Jaycar: Use 12V relay. R1=82Ω 5W, LK6 out
30A SPDT Horn Relay*
Contact rating: 14V DC
Jaycar SY-4070
Use 12V relay. R1=82Ω 5W, LK6 out
60A SPDT Horn Relay*
Contact rating: 14V DC
Altronics S 4339
Jaycar SY-4074
Use 12V relay. R1=82Ω 5W, LK6 out
Notes: LK6 installed (jumper in) unless stated.
* Bolt on and quick connector type. Requires 2 x 6.35mm PCB-mount male spade connectors with 5.08mm pin spacing (Altronics H 2094)
plus 4 x 6.35mm insulated female spade quick connectors with 4-8mm wire diameter entry (these are not suitable for the 60A relay).
** Install 1N4744 15V zener ZD2.
A variety of relays can be used with this
unit, such as DPDT (double-pole doublethrow), SPDT (single-pole double-throw) and
SPST (single-pole single-throw). Double-pole
(DP) simply means that there are two separate
sets of contacts that can be used independently to switch power (or even signals).
Single-throw (ST) and double-throw (DT)
contacts each have a common (COM) contact
and both ST and DT types have a contact that
is open when the relay is off; ie, the normally
open or NO contact. This NO contact closes
against the COM terminal when the relay is
on (ie, the coil is powered).
In relays with DT contacts there is also a
normally closed (NC) contact. This connects
to the COM terminal when the relay is off and
opens when the relay is on.
Both SPDT and DPDT relays give the op-
the relay, then adjust VR3 until the
threshold voltage is reached. LED1
will light when the input is above the
threshold, while LED2 will light when
the input is below the threshold.
With hysteresis trimpot VR2 set at
maximum, the threshold for a rising
input voltage will be similar to that of
a falling input voltage. This hysteresis
can be increased by reducing the value
of VR2 (ie, turn VR2 anti-clockwise for
more hysteresis).
32 Silicon Chip
tion of powering something when the relay
is either switched on or is switched off. For
example, you can set up the TVS so that
power is switched on when the relay is off
by connecting the load to its supply via the
NC and COM contacts. The main reason to
do this is to minimise the current drawn by
the circuit. The TVS typically draws less than
1mA when the relay is off but when the relay is
on, the current drawn by its coil will typically
be around 50mA or up to 100mA, depending
on the relay used.
Table 3 shows the various relays that can
be used with the Threshold Voltage Switch.
The choice depends on the supply voltage
and the current to be switched by the relay’s
contacts.
PCB-mounting relays are accommodated
on the PCB and their contacts brought out
Changing the hysteresis will also
affect the threshold voltage previously
set using VR3, so you will now need
to readjust VR3 to correct this. Once
that’s done, check that the hysteresis
set using VR2 is suitable and repeat
the above steps if necessary.
Jumper LK3 determines whether
the relay turns on or off for rising or
falling threshold voltages. Install LK3
in the HIGH position if you want the
relay to turn on when the input volt-
to screw terminal block CON2. By contrast,
relays with quick connect terminals are
mounted off the board. You can either use
leads fitted with quick connectors or you
can solder the leads directly to the terminals.
Since relays with 12V coils are more
common than 24V relays, the TVS has been
designed so that it can use a 12V relay even
when operating from 24V. It’s just a matter
of removing LK4 and installing a dropping
resistor (R1) on the PCB, in series with the
relay’s coil.
Having said that, if you are operating
from a 24V supply and can obtain a suitable
relay with a 24V coil and the correct pin-out,
this will generally halve power and current
consumption when the relay is energised.
In that case, leave R1 out and install jumper
LK4 instead.
age exceeds the threshold. Conversely,
install LK3 in the LOW position if you
want the relay to turn on when the input voltage goes below the threshold.
Finally, to reduce the current drawn
by the Threshold Voltage Switch with
the relay off, jumpers LK5a & LK5b can
be removed (to disable LED1 & LED2)
once the set-up procedure has been
completed. Alternatively, you may
leave them in to monitor the unit’s
operation.
siliconchip.com.au
17V PEAK
12V RMS
θ
230V AC
12V AC
D1
+
230V AC
TO
BATTERY
12V AC
D2
0V
+
θ
D1
0V
THERMAL
CUTOUT
17V PEAK
12V RMS
THERMAL
CUTOUT
TO
BATTERY
12V AC
D2
D3
D4
–
–
TRANSFORMER
WITH UNTAPPED
SECONDARY
TRANSFORMER
WITH CENTRE-TAPPED
SECONDARY
Fig.4: typical battery charger circuitry using either a centre-tapped transformer with two rectifier diodes (A) or a single
winding transformer with a four-diode bridge rectifier (B).
Battery Charging With The
Threshold Voltage Switch
RT*
+
0V
INPUT
IN
0V
CON1
5819
CLIPS
10V
4148
THRESHOLD
–
higher) transformer. The output after
rectification is pulsating DC with a
peak voltage of around 17V. If the
charger is left on charge for too long,
the 17V peak can overcharge the battery easily, reaching well beyond 15V
if left unattended.
This solution is the Threshold Voltage Switch. It can monitor the battery
and switch off the charging current as
soon as the voltage reaches 14.4V. Additionally, the hysteresis can be made
sufficiently large so that charging does
not recommence until battery voltage
falls to its 12.6V (typical) resting voltage after charging ceases.
Fig.5 shows the required arrangement. The output from the charger
15V
HYSTERESIS
+
CHARGER
DIVIDER
4148
87
4004
86
C 2014
99106141
1 4 1 6 0 1 9 9 VOLTAGE
h ctiSWITCH
wS egatloV
siliconchip.com.au
transformer with a four-diode bridge
rectifier (B).
The charger will usually also include
a temperature cut-out that switches the
charger off when the transformer runs
too hot. But there is no facility to sense
the battery voltage or stop charging
above a certain voltage.
You may have a commercial battery charger that uses a circuit like
one of these or you may have built
the Bits’n’Pieces Battery Charger
from April & May 2013 SILICON CHIP.
Either way, the charge process can be
monitored to ensure that the battery
isn’t overcharged.
Overcharging can easily occur since
these chargers use a nominal 12V (or
(TRIMPOTS)
ANY READERS have asked for a
simple solution to prevent overcharging of lead-acid batteries. Most
simple battery chargers do not have
any end-of-charge detection and will
continue charging at their full current
even though the battery may have
reached 14.4V. If allowed to continue
for too long, such over-charging leads
to severe gassing, excessive fluid loss
as the battery overheats and even
buckling of the plates. Ultimately, the
battery will fail much sooner than it
should.
Over-charging can also lead to a
build-up of hydrogen gas in an enclosed space, which is an explosion
hazard, especially in the presence of
sparks (often caused if the battery is
disconnected during charging).
An elegant solution to this problem
is to use our Threshold Voltage Switch
as a battery charge cut-off device and
you can then add a trickle charge facility as well.
So why do most battery chargers
not limit or stop charging when the
battery reaches 14.4V (in the case of
a 12V lead-acid battery)? The answer
is that most chargers simply comprise
a transformer and rectifier supplying
raw full-wave rectified voltage to the
battery.
Fig.4 shows two typical battery
charger circuits. These use either a
centre-tapped transformer with two
rectifier diodes (A) or a single winding
SUPPLY
M
NC NO
C
NC NO
VOLTAGE SWITCH
*
+
–
BATTERY
85
C
30
RELAY
OPTIONAL TRICKLE CHARGE RESISTOR (1W RECOMMENDED)
Fig.5: here’s how to add the Threshold Voltage Switch to a battery charger,
so that charging automatically ceases when the battery is fully charged.
Resistor RT is optional for trickle charging (see text).
July 2014 33
(TRIMPOTS)
THRESHOLD
3.3k
D3
87
87A
85
TO CHARGER
POSITIVE
30
86
LED3
SHUNT R1
LED1
3.3k
3.3k
100nF
22 µF
REG1
LM2936-3.3
HYSTERESIS
4004
1k
IC1
IC2
7555
LMC6482
470k
TP1
DIVIDER
LOW
LEVEL
100nF
A
60A RELAY
C
(IN FOR VR1 100k
DIVIDE)
100nF
TO BATTERY
NEGATIVE
ON CN
IN 0V
INPUT
100Ω
1k
TP2
HIGH
VR2 1M VR3 100k
LK3
LK1
LED2
IN < SET
100nF
100nF
1 µF
LK4
BC337
Q2 A
BC327
4148
10V
ZD1
100 µF
LEVEL
TEST
Q1
C
0V
SUPPLY
+
LK5a,b
D2
TO BATTERY
POSITIVE
IN > SET
A
ON CN
CON1
15V
5819
D4
D1
LK2
100Ω
TP GND
10Ω FOR 5V * SEE TEXT
R2* ZD2*
4148
10V 1W
COIL
Q3
IRF540
C 2014
99106141
1 4 1 6 0 1 9 9 VOLTAGE
h ctiSWITCH
wS egatloV
TO CHARGER
NEGATIVE
Fig.6: follow this diagram to assemble the PCB and wire it to an external relay and battery charging circuit. Mediumduty hook-up wire can be used for all connections to the PCB but be sure to use heavy duty cable for all connections
between the charger and the battery and to the relay contacts (30 & 87).
is switched using a 60A 12V relay
(Altronics S 4339 or Jaycar SY-4074).
This heavy-duty relay is mounted
externally, since it is too big to fit on
the PCB.
It works like this: when the Common (COM) and normally open (NO)
contacts are closed, the output from
the charger is connected directly to
the battery and the battery charges.
As soon as the battery reaches 14.4V,
the relay switches off and the contacts
open, thereby disconnecting the battery to prevent overcharging.
The supply for the Threshold Voltage Switch is derived from the charger
(rather than the battery), so that the
battery doesn’t begin to discharge
when charging ceases. We do, however, monitor the battery voltage but
this process results in a current drain
of less than 32µA. That’s much less
than the battery self-discharge current.
Note that the wiring to the TVS for
voltage sensing is run separately from
the battery terminals. This ensures that
voltage drop across the charging leads
does not affect the measurement.
Adding trickle charging
Switching to trickle charging at the
end of a full charge is a good idea, since
it ensures that the battery is always
fully charged (without the risk of overcharging). The trickle charge must be
low enough to allow the battery voltage
to drop to below or be held at 13.8V.
Typically, the trickle current should
34 Silicon Chip
be 0.025% of the battery’s Ah capacity, or about 10mA for a 40Ah battery.
This can be achieved by adding a 220Ω
resistor across the relay contacts.
The resistor value is calculated assuming a charging voltage of 15.8V (ie,
2V more than the 13.8V battery voltage). A 220Ω resistor will dissipate less
than 0.25W but we recommend using
a 1W resistor as it is more rugged and
has thicker leads to make the connection to the relay terminals.
Fig.6 shows the PCB layout and
external connections necessary to
connect the TVS to the battery and
the charger. The relay is mounted
externally, with its coil terminated to
the contacts on the PCB using spade
quick connectors.
Note that Fig.6 shows the arrangement for charging a 12V battery. Zener
diode ZD1 is now a 10V 1W type
(1N4740) instead of the original 15V
zener and provides a regulated 10V
supply for comparator IC1a. This
regulated supply is necessary because
the hysteresis must be made quite wide
and because supply variations would
affect the voltage at which the TVS
switches off charging.
For a 24V charger and battery, use
another 10V 1W zener diode for ZD2
and leave LK2 open. In addition, the
100Ω resistor (R1) needs to be changed
to 220Ω 0.25W. You will also need a
relay with contacts rated for 28V DC.
Medium-duty hook-up wire can be
used for all connections to the TVS
but note that heavy duty cable must
be used for all connections between
the charger and the battery and for
the connections to the relay contacts
(30 & 87). We used 25A cable on our
prototype but you could use 10A cable
if the charger is a low-current type
rated at less than 5A.
As shown in the photos, we installed
the PCB and relay in a UB1 plastic utility case measuring 158 x 95 x 53mm.
The PCB mounts on M3 x 9mm tapped
stand-offs and is held in place using
M3 x 6mm screws. The relay is bolted
to the base of the case using an M4 x
12mm screw and an M4 nut.
Finally, the connections to the relay
contacts are all made via quick connectors and the external leads are fed
through a 10-14mm cable gland at one
end of the case.
Setting up the TVS
The TVS must now be set up for
battery charging following this stepby-step procedure:
Step 1: feed a voltage (eg, 9V) to the
signal input on CON1, then accurately
measure this voltage using a DMM (no
need to apply power).
Step 2: connect the DMM between
TP1 and TP GND, make sure LK1 is
installed and adjust VR1 for a reading
that’s one-tenth the measured voltage
in Step 1. This sets VR1 to divide by 10.
Step 3: measure the resistance between
TP2 and the LOW position of LK3
(with the LK3 jumper out). Adjust
siliconchip.com.au
The PCB
and relay for
the battery
charger cut-out
version can
be installed in
a UB1 plastic
utility case.
VR2 for a reading of 90kΩ to set the
hysteresis appropriately.
Step 4: remove the input voltage, short
the signal inputs on CON1 using a wire
link and apply power to the circuit using the battery charger or a 12V supply.
Step 5: monitor the voltage between
TP2 and TP GND and adjust trimpot
VR3 for 1.44V. This sets the TVS to
disconnect the battery from the charger
when it reaches 14.4V. The hysteresis
setting ensures that the TVS will not
switch the relay back on again to reconnect the charger until the input voltage
falls below 12.6V.
Step 6: remove the shorting link on the
signal input and connect the signal
“+” input to the positive supply rail
instead. Now, with LK1 out, check the
voltage between TP2 and TP GND; it
should be close to 1.26V. TP2 should
return to 1.44V if the signal input is
again shorted to ground (ie, to 0V).
Step 7: install LK3 in the LOW position. LK5a & LK5b can either be
removed or left in circuit to show the
charging status.
In practice, leaving LED1 & LED2
operating is a good idea because the
The external leads exit through a cable gland at one end of the case and the
leads for the battery terminated in large alligator clamps. The two leads with
the bared wire ends go to the battery charger.
relay indicator LED3 now glows even
when the relay is off. This is due to the
supply coming from the pulsating DC
of the charger plus various capacitive
effects which cause the LED to light.
By contrast, with a normal constant DC
supply, the relay LED is extinguished
SC
when the relay turns off.
Issues Getting Dog-Eared?
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VALUE
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*See website for overseas prices.
siliconchip.com.au
July 2014 35
Review by
S ILICON C HIP
photographer,
ROSS TESTER
Update: Eye-Fi goes
mobile and cloud
Back in the October 2010 issue we told you about an exciting new
development in digital photography and file transfer. In a standardsized SD card, Eye-Fi combined both photo storage and a WiFi system, so
you could move your photos to wherever you wanted without the card
leaving your camera. Fast forward to 2014 and Eye-Fi have made a few
changes – not the least of which is that they now sell to Australia!
T
hink about that for a moment: not only was that SD
card “standard” as far as storage was concerned but
built into the SD case was a complete WiFi transceiver. Just goes to show how ultra-miniature these things
have become these days!
(By the way, the SD card was bog-standard in size; it
didn’t need to be thicker or larger to accommodate the
WiFi circuitry or antenna).
About our only criticism at the time was that, for reasons best known to themselves, Eye-Fi were not selling to
Australia.
36 Silicon Chip
In fact, if you ordered a card on their website, it let you
get all the way through the process (including entering your
credit card details) then came back with a message saying
that “they didn’t sell to that geographic area”. Curses!
Of course, we took this as a challenge and by using good
ol’ Señor Google, found an Eye-Fi reseller who somehow
forgot about this restriction and posted our card to us – it
only took a week or so from the US East Coast.
(Incidentally, since then Eye-Fi has emailed me and address me as a “valued user”. Go figure!).
We used that card, very successfully, for the best part of
siliconchip.com.au
three years. Then, sadly (and not altogenuine 128GB Class 10 SanDisk Exgether unusually for SD cards), it broke.
treme PLUS SDXC card from SanDisk
I couldn’t access the ‘storage’ section of
for just over $250. And I’ve seen 256GB
the card any more.
SDXC cards advertised (not on ebay!) for
The WiFi section still worked perless than $200.
fectly but wasn’t exactly useful, without
However, our reader’s warning still
the camera being able to store the pics!
holds good on another point: many, prob(Anyone know what to do with a perably the majority of very high capacity
fectly good WiFi card that can’t record Side-by-side, it’s not hard to tell the
cards you buy on line (eg, on ebay) and
genuine from the fake. But would you more particularly out of China, will not
anything?)
We tried the various SD card repair remember the differences otherwise? only be fakes/forgeries, they will have
utilities and thought at one stage we had
a “spoof” utility built into them which
struck oil – except that the files were all corrupted! Repeat- fools you into believing they have that high capacity. At
ing the process only proved how futile this approach was . . . least that’s what your computer reports.
So for several months, we have reverted to the ‘sneakerThere are all sorts of warnings on the net about these
net’ system we originally used – take the pics, take the card cards – one we read recently analysed a “128GB SDXC”
out of the camera, move it to a card reader on a computer card only to find it was actually a 1GB card with the spoof
and move the files manually.
utility on it.
Even this wasn’t entirely successful: constant removal
It’s only when you shell out your hard-earned and try to
and replacement of the card destroyed one card (it fell apart) record files that you find the truth.
and even rendered the computer’s card reader useless (it
One of two things will happen: (a) once you reach the
lost its ability to capture and hold the card itself).
actual card capacity, no more files will record, or (b) they
Fortunately, the original Eye-Fi package included a USB appear to record perfectly but the files will be corrupted
SD Card Reader so we weren’t completely stuck.
and unreadable. You’ve been warned!
By the way, if you want to avoid this nasty surprise,
Cards go B-I-G!
you’re far better off buying locally and buying a known
The original Eye-Fi card was a rather massive (we brand name. You’ll pay a bit more but the risk of losing
thought!) 4GB. In 2010 terms, that was quite large. And your valuable files is significantly lower.
the fact that we arranged our software so that the pics
But even then, some people have been caught with a
were deleted once sent to the computer meant that we double-whammy: the “brand name” cards themselves are
never looked like filling it. Even a long day ‘shoot’ would forgeries as well as spoofs. If you buy where you can take
be lucky to get to even a couple of hundred megabytes. So the card back, you could save yourself a lot of angst.
4GB was way more than adequate.
But as you would no doubt realise, memory cards have How do you check a fake?
made some staggering increases in size over the last few
We know this is a little off the track of our Eye-Fi card
years.
update but it’s worth knowing anyway!
I wrote in an article late last year that 128GB cards had
There are quite a number of utilities which will check
become available and 256GB cards were in development – the veracity of your card (or USB stick, etc) for you. One
and a reader castigated me for spreading false information. we use is “fakeflashtest.exe”, a free download from www.
“Anything over 32GB is almost certainly a fake,” he said.
rmprepusb.com
Perhaps then – but not any more: you can now buy a
Just a word of warning: this is a destructive test – don’t
Here’s a couple of screen shots from fakeflashtest.exe – they’re the images you
really don’t want to see. We were pretty sure the card was a fake, because it
caused quite a few errors. Now we know for sure!
siliconchip.com.au
July 2014 37
Cameras with Built-in WiFi
More and more digital cameras, especially (but not limited to)
top-end models, are now being fitted with WiFi.
Naturally, this means that an Eye-Fi card (of any iteration) is
not only not needed but may interfere with the inbuilt system.
This review is specifically intended for the (still!) huge numbers
of cameras which don’t offer WiFi, either native or as an option.
run it on a card with data you want (especially including
even an “empty” Eye-Fi card because you’ll destroy the
essential Eye-Fi software recorded thereon!).
Are big cards really worth it?
While we’re digressing, let’s look at using big SD (or any
other) cards.
If you’re shooting lots of video, you’ll need lots of storage
capacity. So a large card is a convenient “gimmee”.
But, as we mentioned before, memory cards fail. Either
physically (eg, the card falls apart or the contacts break) or
electrically (you can’t read what’s on the card or you can’t
write to it). We’ve experienced both.
In the latter case, there are rescue apps available but they
may or may not work, depending on just what has caused
the card failure.
OK, imagine you went on that extended world trip and
had a few thousand photos on the card (and you do tend
to take many more photos when they’re digital!) when the
worst happens – your card is corrupted.
Now you can see why it makes much more sense to use
a few smaller cards than one big one.
Spread you pics out between several smaller cards –
you’d be VERY unlucky to lose more than one.
Even a “small” card (small these days!) can hold a LOT
of photos. Depending on camera resolution, an 8GB, for
example, can hold at least 500-2,500 typical hi-res jpg
shots (3-16MB each) while a 128GB can store between
8,000 and 40,000+.
Just to put that in perspective (and for the benefit of
older readers who still “think” in 35mm film mode!), that
atter figure is roughly equivalent to shooting a full roll of
36 exposures every day for more than three years!
But now there’s an even better solution
We’re back on track – talking about Eye-Fi!
As well as themselves significantly increasing their SD
card capacity (their top card is now 32GB) Eye-Fi have
now branched out into mobile devices. We’ll explain that
in detail shortly; in a nutshell it means your pictures can
now be downloaded (via apps) to your Android or Apple
phones, tablets, etc.
house photo studio. When we set this up a few years ago,
we thought 500GB would last us for an eternity.
We’ve now proven that eternities last about two years!
The Eye-Fi card doesn’t discriminate: it sends every
picture we take, including oopses and blanks (hey, it happens!) to the hard drive. We’ve arranged it so that the pics
go into a folder with that day’s date as the file name.
Later we select the ones which are going to be kept in
perpetuity and move them into folders more relevant to
the subject being shot. We also deleted the mis-shot pics
to save disk space.
Moving the pics from camera to hard drive is a totally
seamless process – the only thing that we have to remember is to leave the Nikon turned on so the Eye-Fi card can
continue its magic (it’s second nature to turn the camera
off when the studio flashes are turned off . . .)
For a more detailed explanation of this process, we refer
readers back to that October 2010 article (copies available
via our website).
But as we said at the outset, Eye-Fi have been busy little
bees and have come up with Eye-Fi mobi.
Eye-Fi mobi
Eye-Fi mobi is different to the X2 type in that it is specifically intended to operate from camera to mobile device,
whether that is a phone or tablet computer.
Don’t be fooled by the word +WiFi on the front of the
card; it won’t work with your home or office WiFi. (You
might have noted that it doesn’t have the usual WiFi logo).
It operates with Android and iPad devices. The specifications we read said that it required Android 2.3 – our
Android 4.0 tablet had no problems whatsoever. If you own
a Windows tablet, at the moment you are out of luck (but
that may come in the future).
Using it is as simple as downloading the Eye-Fi mobi
app (either from Eye-Fi or from the App Store/Play Store),
running it and activating by entering the ten-digit activation code supplied with the card, then placing the card in
your camera and shooting off a few pics.
While you’re doing that, the Eye-Fi app searches for (and
presumably finds!) the card in your camera, as long as it
is within range and that can be up to 14m or so inside,
double that outside – and then commences copying the
files to your phone/tablet.
It really is that easy! While
we had a few dramas
downloading the app I
believe that might have
been more to do with the
We’ll start with the “traditional” X2 WiFi memory cards
of 4, 8 and 16GB formats – they’re the ones we looked at
back in 2010.
These SDHC cards (note that SD “HC” – the “high capacity” cards may not be backward-compatible with standard
SD card readers) use your home or office WiFi setup to
almost instantly transfer photos from your camera to a
selected drive and/or folder on your chosen computer.
For example, here at SILICON CHIP we have a 500GB hard
drive dedicated to storing the photos we take in our in-
Once the app
is loaded, the
photos taken
on your EyeFi equipped
camera are
downloaded to
your Android
or iOS device
automatically if
it’s within range,
You can review
and edit them as
you wish.
38 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Eye-Fi X2 cards
Eye-Fi Mobi specifications
Wi-Fi Range: Outdoors – 27.5m, Indoors – 14m
Wi-Fi transfer image support: JPEG
Wi-Fi transfer video support (under 2GB per file): .mpg, .mov,
.flv, .wmv, .avi, .mp4, .mts, .m4v, .3gp
Security standards: Improved WPA2-PSK plus static WEP 64/128
and WPA-PSK)
Size: 8GB, 16GB or 32GB SDHC Memory, depending on model
Speed: Class 10 SDHC performance
Read/Write support: All file types, Including RAW*
Power: Advanced power management optimises use of camera
battery
* RAW files cannot be uploaded via Eye-Fi.
el-cheapo Android tablet I was using. Later I’ll give it a
go with my partner’s shiny new Samsung Galaxy and I’m
pretty sure it will behave itself perfectly.
I didn’t try loading it on an iPad so cannot comment
on the process there – but I have every confidence that it
would be just as easy.
Incidentally, if you have more than one camera and
wish to purchase extra Eye-Fi mobi cards for each one,
you can have up to ten cards/cameras synched to the one
mobile device.
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June 2014
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Conclusion
There is no doubt that Eye-Fi cards cost a lot more than
FrontPanelExpress.com
an equivalent “naked” SD card. You can easily buy a Class
1(800)FPE-9060
10 16GB Sandisk Utra card for less than $15.00 (rule-ofthumb these days seems to be about a buck a [giga]byte).
Remote Control Made Really Easy
But that’s like saying you can buy a camera without a
The KSRC2 UHF set controls
lens for a lot less than one with: nice to look at but not
appliances, lighting, scoreboards
real useful!
& models over 40metres. Its
Here you’re buying functionality and convenience. It’s
two independent receiver relay
nice to have that huge storage on the card but you’re buying
Silicon Chip ad 120mmx87mm.indd 1
outputs are rated to 500Watts
what the other part of the card can do for you – seamlessly
transfer the data. So that ‘extra’ you pay over the standard
Fully
Special S.C Project Offer!!!
Assembled
SD card really doesn’t come into it.
inc. GST Plus $7.50 P & P
The mobi Eye-Fi card does what it does with a minimum
of fuss and a minimum of setup. If you want the extra
Digital Panel Meters at Analogue Prices
functionality of the older, “X2” WiFi card, you’re going to
have to pay extra for it – and take longer in getting it going.
KSDVM-30 ULTRA-COMPACT
The old “horses for courses” adage really comes into it: if
4.5-30VDC Digital Panel Meter
you want to be able to transfer pics from camera to mobile
device (and hopefully, before too long, to the cloud), the
Features: Bright 0.36” Red LED Digits,
mobi is the one to go for. If you want to use your home or
Snap-Fit Housing, Range optimized for
inc. GST
office WiFi setup, the X2 is for you.
SC
solar, automotive and trucking applications.
$22.30
$6.70
Plus $4.50 P & P
Where from, how much
Eye-Fi cards are now available from a number of photographic
retailers in Australia at comparable prices to (and in some cases
even better than) those you pay on the web, direct from Eye-Fi.
For example, the Mobi 16GB eyefi card from Eye-Fi (www.eyefi.
com/buy-now) is $AU89.99 with “free” P&P but is available for
$74.00, inc GST, from www.camerastore.com.au. However, we’ve
seen it for more than $100 – for the same thing – at other stores.
So shop around!
Eye-Fi’s online prices for their Mobi other models are currently
$AU59.99 for the Mobi 8GB and $AU112.99 for the Mobi 32GB.
These prices include free standard P&P (prices as at June 2014).
siliconchip.com.au
MXA026
Fully
Assembled
Stop-Watch
& Clock
Six, daylight-visible 60mm Digits
Timing Down to 100th sec.
Battery Back-up circuit
Really easy to use and install.
Special Low Price $93.70 inc. GST
plus $11.50 post and Pack
www.kitstop.com.au
P.O. Box 5422 Clayton Vic.3168
Tel:0432 502 755
July 2014 39
11/14/12 7
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
Oh goodie – a valve radio to fix!
Fixing valve radios can be a real challenge,
particularly if you don’t have a circuit
diagram. That was certainly the case with an
old Philco valve radio I took on recently as a
favour for a friend but luck was on my side.
Mention valve technology to today’s
servicemen and you’ll get a variety
of responses, usually ranging from a
disbelieving chuckle to a snort of derision. In rare cases, there’s a knowing
nod and a smile.
Surprisingly though, while talk of
valves may conjure up memories of
grandma’s old Gloria or AWA radiogram, valves (or vacuum tubes as the
Americans call them) are used more
widely these days than you might
think. For example, next time you go
to a rock concert, check out the stage;
chances are that many of the amplifiers
will be “valve powered”. Guitarists
particularly love valve amplifiers and
for good reason; they just sound better.
Of course, sound is subjective
and that’s a bold statement for me to
make. However, it’s generally accepted
that valve guitar and bass amplifiers
give a much warmer tone than their
40 Silicon Chip
transistorised counterparts. In my
experience, that has certainly been
the case, though ironically my current
amplifier is a solid-state model that’s
been specially designed to emulate the
signature tones of well-known guitarists, most of whom use valve units.
Another area where valve amplifiers
are sometimes found is in esoteric
home stereo systems. Often, this type
of set-up involves at least two separate
valve amplifiers (one for each channel)
and sometimes a stand-alone bass
amplifier driving a subwoofer. Those
who own such systems have usually
had to part with large sums of money
for the hardware. And while they are
undoubtedly beautiful to behold (both
visually and aurally) most people
just shake their head in bemusement
and argue that a cheaper solid-state
amplifier will do the job just as well,
if not better.
It’s also interesting to note that the
valve mixing consoles used in the
world’s famous recording studios
are now highly sought-after. Those
replaced with more modern consoles were usually snapped up by
engineers or others who just happened to be in the right place
at the right time. The owner
of the original valve console
from Abbey Road studios, for
example, could have just about
named his price and got it. All
consoles impart their own unique
sound characteristics to the finished product and, in the case of
the Abbey Road console, it’s difficult
to put a value on the history.
There are several characteristics
inherent in almost all types of valvebased gear. First of all, valves are
Dave Thompson*
Items Covered This Month
• Philco valve radio
• Lightning strikes again
• Ebara sump pump
• Surge Catcher power board
• LED torch repair
• The things some customers do
*Dave Thompson runs PC Anytime
in Christchurch, NZ.
Website: www.pcanytime.co.nz
Email: dave<at>pcanytime.co.nz
fragile and prone to failure if not
looked after properly. Second, the
components used in valve amplifiers
are typically more robust and heavier
than those used in equivalent solidsate devices. This means that all associated circuit boards and even the
cases must be strong enough to handle
the extra weight.
Finally, valves generate a lot of heat
and this usually means that cases must
be well-ventilated. Of course, solidstate amplifiers can also generate a lot
of heat but that can usually be taken
care of by attaching the output devices
to heatsinks.
A valve radio to fix
So what’s all this leading up to?
Well, just recently a friend of mine
asked if I knew anyone who could take
a look at a Philco valve radio that he’d
been bequeathed. Many years ago, as a
young boy, he often sat and listened to
this radio when it took pride of place
on the mantel in the lounge-room at his
grandparents’ house. At the time, he
was fascinated with the stations listed
on the dial and the exotic locations
some of them represented.
Like me with my parents’ old valve
radio, he spent ages messing with the
tuning to see if he really could get
Radio Luxembourg (he couldn’t and
neither could I). As an aside, the large
radiogram in my parents’ lounge-room
boasted a fascinating device called a
siliconchip.com.au
“magic eye”. This was a special type
of valve that was used as a tuning indicator. As a station was tuned in, an
internal glow area in the “magic eye”
valve changed shape, allowing the
tuning to be accurately set.
My friend’s radio didn’t have a
magic eye but it did have a large
back-lit tuning dial listing both local
and (ambitiously) overseas stations.
Unfortunately, turning the set’s on/
off switch to ON resulted in a big fat
nothing, so something was very wrong.
Not knowing anyone who serviced
valve radios, I said that I would take a
look at it. What I like about this older
analog electronic circuitry is the pointto-point nature of the wiring and the
fact that everything is on show. I also
like the electromechanical aspect of
these old radios, with their dial-cords,
dial pulleys and open-ganged tuning
capacitors.
By contrast, much of today’s electronics is often purposely obscured
and in some cases potted so that nothing can be seen at all. While some of
this is to protect commercially-sensitive information, I also occasionally
get the feeling that the workings are
hidden away so that we don’t see just
how simple the circuitry really is and
thus whinge about how much we’ve
paid for the item.
I’ve experienced this in my own
workshop. Many people who’ve never
seen the inside of their computer are
stunned when they finally realise just
what is in there. In fact, I sometimes get
the impression that they feel ripped off
because the case isn’t full to the brim
with hardware and flashing lights.
Is it getting power?
Getting back to the radio, I initially
decided to check the power supply
and see just what was powering up.
I am always cautious when playing
around with mains-powered valve
radios; some have a ‘hot’ chassis,
which means that the metalwork is
running at mains potential and that
makes me very nervous. Fortunately,
this particular model wasn’t one of
those but it still had 230VAC wiring in
there, with many connections exposed
to wayward fingers. As a result, I took
extreme care while poking around
inside it.
One thing I noticed was something
I’d read about in the Vintage Radio section of SILICON CHIP; the mains cable
had at some point been changed to a
siliconchip.com.au
more modern type, along with some
of the associated components. There
were a few fairly modern capacitors
and resistors in among the original
parts, so someone had repaired this
set at some time in the past.
From what I can gather, this is a
very common modification for vintage
radios. Capacitors dry out over time
and their values change, causing all
sorts of problems. Similarly old resistors heat up and cool down one too
many times and can go open circuit
or change value, causing things to
stop working properly. So, if the radio
is to be used, it is common for these
components to be replaced with their
modern equivalents, providing both
increased safety and reliability.
Because this radio had already been
overhauled, I wouldn’t have to touch
these parts, unless of course one of
the new parts was the cause of the
problem.
The first place to start was the on/
off switch itself. As in many of these
radios, the power switch is part of the
volume control and physically sits on
the back of the potentiometer. First, I
made sure that the set’s power cord
was out of the wall socket. A quick
check with my trusty multimeter on
the continuity setting then confirmed
that the switch was operating as expected. It’s always a good idea to check
the obvious up front, as it can save you
a lot of time and grief.
The power supply circuitry came
next and this is where one has to be
careful; 230VAC hurts! I plugged the
radio in, switched it on and set my
meter to the auto DC voltage range.
At this stage, all I could do without
a circuit was to confirm that there
was power at random points around
the chassis. I could that see the valve
heaters were glowing so they were
obviously getting power and by carefully poking about at the bottom of the
sockets, I was able to measure various
DC voltages. Unfortunately though, I
had no idea what any of these readings were supposed to be but the fact
that I was getting something led me
to believe that the power supply was
working (though just how well I had
yet to discover).
When working on devices I don’t
know much about, most of my troubleshooting is based on circumstantial
evidence. In particular, I look for bad
solder joints, wires that may have
come adrift and any other obvious
problems. For example, if I hadn’t
been able to measure any voltages
around the chassis, then that would
have pointed to a power supply issue,
even without me knowing exactly
what made up the power supply or
how it worked.
Of course, determining the source
of a problem is one thing; finding the
exact cause and fixing it is another,
especially without a circuit or prior
experience with this type of set!
No speaker thumps
One thing I noticed from the beginning (but being thick it didn’t really
dawn on me for a while) was that when
I switched the radio on or off, I didn’t
get any sound at all from the speaker.
I seemed to remember from playing
with other old radios that there was
usually a ‘thump’ from the speaker
every time the set was turned on or
July 2014 41
Serviceman’s Log – continued
off. Of course, this isn’t a hard and fast
rule but I expected something audible.
I also noted that there was no background hiss or crackling as one would
expect when operating an old volume
control potentiometer, even approaching full volume. So it appeared that
the problem lay in the audio or output
stages, so that’s where I looked next.
After switching the radio off and
leaving it for a minute or two, I
checked the speaker’s voice coil. It
measured around 600Ω which seemed
an odd figure, though once again I had
no idea what it should be. There was
also what I assumed to be an output
transformer mounted on the speaker’s
frame so I checked that as well but
couldn’t get any continuity or resistance reading at all on its primary side.
By now, I was hoping that this area
wasn’t the problem because I had no
way of knowing what the correct values for these components would be.
A quick Google search then informed
me that the output transformer might
not be an output transformer after all.
Instead, it might be a field coil, which
is quite a different animal.
And that was that; I hate being stymied but without a circuit or advice
from someone who knew what they are
talking about, I’d come to a dead-end,
42 Silicon Chip
with no real way of moving forward
with this repair.
After some fruitless reading on
various internet forums, I suddenly
recalled that one of my computer
clients dabbled in antiques. In fact,
I’d visited his workshop on a call-out
some time back and had noticed some
old radios he had sitting on a shelf. I
quickly found his number and gave
him a call and he said that he would
be more than happy to show me his
(now much larger) collection.
While he wasn’t into electronics
and didn’t repair the electrical parts of
these radios, he made a beautiful job of
repairing the cabinets and restoring the
exteriors. Because of this, he mainly
collected radios with timber cabinets
but he did have a few Bakelite and
early plastic models, all in varying
degrees of restoration.
I was particularly interested in a box
of parts he mentioned, which apparently included some speakers. I’d taken
along the speaker from ‘my’ radio and
after politely listening to his restoration stories, steered the conversation
towards a possible replacement from
his as-yet-unseen box of parts.
His ‘parts box’ turned out to be
quite a large collection of old chassis,
reclaimed valves, knobs, dial mecha-
nisms and other bits and pieces he’d
collected over the years. If he was
given a non-working radio and it was
unlikely to ever run again, he stripped
it down and the parts ended up here.
What interested me was that he had
quite an assortment of speakers in
varying stages of serviceability; some
looked OK, some had torn or missing
cones and some were intact but had
suspect electricals. But regardless of
condition, they were all were marked
with a sticker containing the date acquired, any relevant values and known
condition.
I showed him the speaker I’d brought
along and he rummaged around before
pulling out what he claimed would
be a suitable replacement. It wasn’t
round, as mine was, but rectangular,
though he assured me that with minor
modifications it would fit in the cabinet and could be connected to the four
existing leads without problems. All
I had to do was make sure the right
leads went to the right places.
He even offered to replace it with
another one if this one didn’t work.
I offered to pay him for it but he
wouldn’t hear of it, so I told him that
the next time I did any computer work
for him I’d return the favour.
The smell of old solder
Once I got home, I immediately
began connecting the replacement
speaker and as I tinned the wires and
speaker terminals, memories came
flooding back. For me there’s something about the smell of that old solder
they used back in the day; it brought
back fond memories of learning to solder, with Dad keeping a constructive
yet critical eye on what I was doing.
These days, the PC-mad health and
safety brigade would have a fit over the
smoke and fumes given off by those old
flux-filled solders. In my case though,
I’ll always associate that smell with
nights spent out in Dad’s workshop
as he taught me to solder.
As for the speaker, I didn’t bother
retrofitting it into the case until I knew
it was going to work. However, I could
tell we were good to go as soon as I
plugged everything in and switched
the radio on. Immediately, there was
a reassuring “click” from the speaker
as power was applied and after the
requisite warm-up period, static and
hiss could be heard. A quick tweak of
the tuning dial then brought in a local
AM station loud and clear.
siliconchip.com.au
Struck By Lightning . . . But The VCR Still Worked!
A hole had been burnt through the
lid of the customer’s Panasonic VCR
but amazingly, the unit still worked.
This photo clearly shows the damage that was done by lightning to the power
supply in this DVD player. Note the blackend areas on the PCB and chassis
near the incoming mains connections are bottom right.
Another photo inside the damaged DVD player, this time with the power
supply PCB removed. A hole has been burnt right through the metal chassis
(bottom right) by the lightning strike.
Lightning can cause a lot of damage to electronic equipment as S. G.
of Mildura knows only too well. This
story graphically illustrates what can
happen . . .
Some time ago, the Mildura area
was hit by a severe thunderstorm
that did a fair amount of damage.
The next day, our phones rang hot
with customers complaining about
lost TV reception and/or other faults.
In one case, I was sent to a customer’s home-unit to check why the
TV was no longer working. When
I arrived, the lady led me into the
lounge room to show me the offending set, a Panasonic 51cm colour TV
in a plastic cabinet. A Panasonic VCR
was stacked on top of this cabinet,
with a DVD player then stacked on
top of the VCR and then a digital
set-top box on top of that.
All were as dead as a dodo, with
not even the standby indicator LEDs
coming on.
In addition, the customer had
another TV and set-top box in the
siliconchip.com.au
main bedroom and another similar
set-up in the kitchen. All were dead.
The digital clock in the wall oven
had also failed and the only thing I
could do was to pick up all the gear
and take it back to the workshop for
further investigation.
As shown in the accompanying
photos, there was a lot of damage to
the set-top box, DVD player and the
VCR. Clearly, they had suffered a
lightning strike and they, along with
the TV sets and the rest of the equipment that the home-owner had, were
write-offs and were replaced by the
owner’s insurance company.
A new TV antenna was also
required, along with a complete
rewire to the three outlets using a
new splitter and wall outlets. Our
third-year apprentice eventually did
all that work and he told me that the
centre wire of the original coax was
“missing”.
The customer had also lost her
tele
phone service and both her
phone and a timer for the watering
system had been damaged and required replacement. However, her
fridge and dishwasher had survived.
Other neighbours in the same
unit complex didn’t have as many
problems, so my customer certainly
copped the worst of the strike.
Several months later, I was having
a bit of a clean out and came across
the damaged Panasonic VCR that I
thought that had “gone to God” during the storm. My curiosity aroused, I
took a much closer look at it and the
only damage that I could see was a
bad burn mark on the top of the lid.
The inside of the unit appeared to be
OK and so after checking the power
supply for shorts, I decided to power
the unit up and see what happened.
As a precaution, I stood well away
from the bench and pressed the
power switch using a broom handle.
It was all an anti-climax – the only
thing that happened was that the
display lit up and started to flash
(because the clock hadn’t been set).
Encouraged by this, I loaded a tape
and pressed the play button. Well,
you could have knocked me over
with a feather – despite getting a real
boot from the lightning strike, the
VCR playback function still worked.
What’s more, using the remote control, I was able to tune in the pattern
generator that’s used to inject a signal
into our antenna system in the shop.
That proved that the UHF section of
the tuner still worked, which probably meant that the VHF section was
also still working.
So why did the VCR’s circuitry
survive, despite the damage to its
case? Well, its owner used it only to
play back pre-recorded tapes and so
it hadn’t been hooked up to the antenna system which had apparently
taken part of the lightning strike.
July 2014 43
Serviceman’s Log – continued
Thank goodness there wasn’t anything seriously wrong with this set
because without a circuit diagram I
would have struggled to get it going
again. Fortunately, changing a speaker
or finding a loose wire or dry joint is
something anyone with basic technical
skills can do.
Finally, the old serviceman’s adage
that “if you don’t know what you are
doing, find someone who does” really
hit home on this repair. If not for my
vintage radio enthusiast friend and
his collection of spare parts, I might
still be looking for a new speaker for
the old Philco.
Ebara sump pump
Regular contributor B. P. of Dundathu, Qld recently solved a problem
with a sump pump that packed it in
on his property. Here’s how he got it
pumping again . . .
A sump pump is a small, self-contained unit with a float switch and,
as its name implies, is used to pump
water from a sump, pit or tank. These
pumps generally don’t require any
attention; they automatically switch
on when the water rises to a certain
height and then switch off again after
the water level falls.
We use this type of pump in our
waste-water tanks and as well as the
units in service, I also have three
pumps which I keep as spares. Two
of these were repaired after they had
previously failed and been replaced,
while the other was acquired at a junk
sale and repaired.
A few months ago, I used my spare
Grundfos pump to transfer water from
one of our dams but then the next time
I went to use it, it wouldn’t work so I
fetched my spare Ebara pump and used
it instead. It worked fine but the next
time I went to use this pump again, it
wouldn’t work either and I was forced
to use my last remaining spare to do
the job on hand.
Later on, I decided to check out
the Ebara pump to determine why it
had suddenly stopped working and
to see if I could repair it. The first
step was to power it up and see what
happened. When I did this, it just
buzzed and didn’t run. I immediately
suspected a jammed impeller, which
sometimes happens with these pumps,
so I unplugged the unit and set about
checking it.
I began by removing the strainer
which is held on by two screws. I
then spun the impeller by hand and it
turned freely, thus eliminating trapped
debris as the cause of the problem. I
then spun the impeller by hand again
and quickly hit the power and this time
the pump sprang to life. And that indicated a faulty motor-start capacitor.
These pumps use a squirrel-cage
induction motor and a motor-start
capacitor to initially ‘boot’ the rotor
into motion. When the capacitor fails,
there is nothing to kick-start the rotor,
so this was the most likely cause of the
fault with this pump.
I then set about further dismantling
the pump. After removing the lower
cover which was held on by three
screws, I removed the impeller by
undoing a single nut. I then removed
the three screws that held the lower
plastic section onto the stainless steel
body and attempted to separate the
two sections. However, this proved
quite difficult, as they did not want
to come apart.
Bearing in mind that I had to be
very careful not to break the rigid
plastic section, I gently prised around
the edges until I finally got the two
pieces to separate. This then let me
slide the workings of the pump out of
the outer shell.
I was then able to remove the black
Servicing Stories Wanted
Do you have any good servicing stories that you would like to share in The Serviceman column in SILICON CHIP? If so, why not send those stories in to us? In doesn’t
matter what the story is about as long as it’s in some way related to the electronics
or electrical industries, to computers or even to car electronics.
We pay for all contributions published but please note that your material must
be original. Send your contribution by email to: editor<at>siliconchip.com.au
Please be sure to include your full name and address details.
44 Silicon Chip
plastic ‘cap’ from the top of the main
stainless steel body of the motor. And
this revealed the cause of the problem
– the motor-start capacitor had indeed
failed, its insides partly escaping
through the plastic can. I’d previously
seen this type of capacitor failure in
washing machines and dryers but I
hadn’t expected to see anything like
this in a sump pump.
I checked my stock and I found that
I didn’t have the correct value capacitor on hand; I needed an 8µF unit but
the lowest value I had was 10µF. This
meant that I had to obtain a capacitor
but first I thought I’d check out the
rest of the pump, to see if it needed
any other parts. That way I could do
a complete refurbishment while the
pump was apart, if necessary.
I spun the motor shaft by hand and
I could hear that one of the bearings
was quite noisy, so I decided to replace
it. That meant removing the stainless
steel motor body from the black plastic
section.
After undoing the four screws holding the parts together, I tried to separate
them but it was as if they were glued
together. Eventually, after some gentle
prising and tapping, I finally got them
apart and I was then able to determine
that it was the bearing closest to the
impeller that was faulty.
Removing the bearing from the
plastic housing was rather difficult, as
the plastic housing had a steel retainer
pressed onto it and punched, to prevent it from coming off. This made it
necessary to drill out the punchings,
after which I was able to prise the retainer away and press the bearing out.
At this stage, I also decided to
replace the two seals, even though
they hadn’t been leaking. However,
they had definitely lost some of their
elasticity and I reasoned that they were
getting towards the end of their lives.
It was important to replace them to
ensure that no water entered the motor. As an aside, some sump pumps
have the stator coils fully sealed and
oil-cooled but this particular pump
has a conventional air-cooled stator.
I needed to go into town the following day, so I sourced the bearing and
the two seals locally. These parts were
readily available for a reasonable price
but not so a replacement capacitor
which I eventually ordered on eBay.
When the capacitor arrived, I soldered and heatshrinked the wires to
it. I then reassembled the pump in
siliconchip.com.au
reverse order of disassembly. This
was relatively straightforward as there
aren’t a lot of parts and it was fairly
easy to see how it all fitted together.
There are four O-rings in this pump,
two of which keep the electrics sealed
from the surrounding water. The
other two seal the pump chamber. I
inspected each of these O-rings and I
found them all to be in good order, so
I didn’t replace any of them. However,
I did give each one and their associated grooves a good coating of marine
grease before reassembly.
This assists the reassembly process
by ensuring that the parts slide into
place easily and it also helps ensure
that the O-rings seal correctly. The new
seals were greased as well.
Once the pump was completely
together, I connected it to power and
lifted the float switch to check that
it was working correctly. The pump
quickly spun up, so I lowered the float
switch to allow it to stop again.
The next step was to immerse the
pump in a bucket of water for a quick
test of its pumping ability. I repeated
the above procedure and when I lifted
the float switch, the pump immediately burst into life and sprayed water
into the air. I then released the float
switch and the pump stopped, so it
was all working correctly.
Excluding labour, the total cost of
repairing this sump pump was just
under $25. It’s interesting to note that
the same type of pump is still available
new and currently retails for around
$290. So, for less than 10% of the cost
of replacement, I was able to return
this non-functional unit back to full
working order again.
Finally, about the only other thing
that can go wrong with these pumps in
normal use is failure of the float switch.
After considerable use, the wire inside
the cable to the float switch can break
but float switches are available for
around $40, so that repair would also
be well worth the effort if required.
DSE Surge Catcher Power Board
Another job I recently took on involved a DSE Surge Catcher 6-way
power board that I’d been given some
time ago. This is quite a fancy unit with
six mains outlets plus phone/ADSL
sockets and TV coaxial cable sockets.
At the time, I’d just put it away and
hadn’t thought any more about it. Now,
having come across it again, I thought
that I might as well test it to see if it
was in working order, so that it could
be put into service.
I plugged it in to the nearest power
point, expecting that it probably
wouldn’t work. And I was right; with
everything switched on, nothing happened. I checked the reset switch and
it had been tripped, so I reset it. There
was still no output from the unit, so
that meant that I would need to pull
it apart to find the problem.
The first challenge involved removing the screws at the back of the unit.
They were Torx screws and while I
had a Torx bit, the problem was that
the screws were deeply recessed and
my Torx bit was too wide to fit down
the recesses. I then thought of a new
screwdriver set I’d picked up a few
days earlier. It had small straight
screwdrivers in it and one of them
fitted perfectly.
Once all the screws had been removed, I turned the unit over and lifted
the top off, half-expecting to find the
insides blown apart by a power surge.
However, I could see no real damage
at first. One thing that did become
obvious though was a deposit of what
looked like salt on the entire inside of
the unit.
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After removing the circuit board,
this deposit was very evident over
the track-work as well. I suspect that
the unit may either have come from a
coastal environment or someone had
been using it near a salt-water pool or
aquarium.
Surprisingly, this deposit was very
easily removed using an old toothbrush and this resulted in a reasonably clean finish on both sides of the
PCB (including the components). It
was then that I saw what was obviously causing the fault. Both diode
D1 (1N4007) and resistor R1 (270kΩ,
0.5W) were missing a lead at one end
due to corrosion. In addition, the minineon “Protected” indicator was also
missing one of its leads and the entire
inside of its glass capsule appeared
to have been taken over by a fungus.
I soon replaced both the diode and
the resistor but the mini-neon was a
problem because I didn’t have an exact replacement. As a result, I looked
through my various spares and eventually found a unit that I could cannibalise. This particular indicator had a
slim case with a red lens and removing
this lens revealed a neon which was the
same size as the one I needed.
The only problem was that this neon
had thick insulated leads crimped to
the original thin bare leads coming
from the glass capsule. In the end, I
decided to cut the thick leads and the
crimps off and replace them with some
0.4mm-diameter uninsulated hook-up
wire, which matched the original wire
thickness. The only problem with this
was that the solder joint was then too
thick to fit in the original grooves in
the stand-off that held the neon at the
correct height on the PCB. This was
solved by using a half-round file to file
small grooves in the stand-off.
Once all the new parts were in place,
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July 2014 45
Serviceman’s Log – continued
The Things Some Customers Do
A little knowledge can be a dangerous thing, so the saying goes. That
certainly applies to customers who
fiddle with equipment and leave a
booby-trap for an unsuspecting serviceman. L. G. of Cowes, Victoria,
encountered one such case many
years ago. Here’s his story . . .
I was working in an electronics
workshop in Canberra at the time.
We serviced virtually anything electronic, including X-ray machines,
robots, forensic equipment etc but
our bread and butter was CRT computer monitor repairs.
In fact, we had a big monitor repair
contract at the time with one government department which had some
4000 of the heavy beasts. And that
was apart from the work we did for
various schools, real-estate agents
and over-the-counter customers
The most I ever managed to repair
was 13 in one day. They came in with
a myriad of faults, including switchmode power supply problems, EHT
I very carefully set everything up with
the top cover off and turned the power
switch on. I then kept well clear of
this potentially lethal arrangement
while I plugged the power cable into
an extension lead and turned on the
power switch on at the wall socket.
The “Protected” neon immediately lit
up and there were no explosions, so
I figured that the unit could now be
reassembled.
As soon as it was back together
again, I plugged it back into the wall
socket, switched everything on and
checked the six outlets with my power
point tester. All tested correctly, so the
unit can now be used again after its
long rest on the scrapheap.
Of course, under normal circumstances, this unit would have been
‘binned’ because it’s not considered
to be a ‘repairable’ item – the cost of
having it repaired at a service centre
would well and truly exceed the cost
of a new replacement.
From my perspective, it’s handy to
be able to do this sort of repair work
and to be able to save an otherwise
“dead” item from landfill. The parts
46 Silicon Chip
faults and colour or other display
problems.
We soon became experts in this
field and zealously documented
each fault and its repair. As a result,
many repairs became quite routine,
since there was no need to diagnose
a fault that we’d seen many times
before.
One particularly memorable day,
I lifted a large monitor up onto my
service bench and noted the customers fault description that it “won’t
fire up”. After removing the back,
the first step was to check for power
and EHT. As a result, I connected an
EHT probe to the tube and set up
my VoltOhmyst meter to check for
signs of life
Imagine my shock when, at
switch-on, the needle immediately
shot hard over past the 50kV mark,
followed by an almighty crack and
a spark that literally leapt across my
30cm-long EHT probe to my arm. I
immediately fell to the floor with
cost would have been no more than a
dollar or two at the most, whereas a
new unit currently retails for $49.98.
At that price, it was definitely worth
spending some time to save it.
LED torch repair
Yet another job involved one of
those small 9-LED torches. I use mine
quite often but noticed recently that it
wasn’t working very well, a little “percussive maintenance” being required
in order for it to give full brightness.
The time had come for an overhaul.
My wife also has an identical torch
and I had repaired it previously, so I
was familiar with how these torches
are dismantled. In the case of my wife’s
torch, half the LEDs had stopped working. When I dismantled it, I found that
one of the surface-mount resistors had
gone open-circuit.
The other resistor for the remaining LEDs was still OK, so I measured
it and replaced the faulty one with a
conventional resistor. Some time later,
this torch suffered the same problem
again, with the other surface-mount
resistor going open-circuit and taking
heart palpitations and the next thing
I remember was my boss hovering
over me saying “are you all right?”
My answer was an emphatic NO!
Now the EHT probe had been
connected to the VoltOhmyst via
a screw-on type microphone connector and a hefty shielded cable.
And somehow, no doubt due to the
tremendous “belt” I had received,
I had managed to rip this cable out
of its socket without dislodging the
meter off the shelf above!
So, why had the X-ray protection
circuit not kicked in and shut the
supply down after the EHT passed
the 28kV mark? Well, it turned out
that the customer knew about this
circuitry and had worked out that
if he disconnected it, the monitor
would momentarily seem to “work”.
Normally, such a high EHT would
comfortably punch a tiny pin hole
through the glass shell of the CRT
and destroy the vacuum. In fact, noone in our centre could ever fathom
out why this hadn’t occurred!
That incident was enough for
me. I promptly black-banned this
customer and never serviced any of
his jobs ever again!
out its LEDs. It too was replaced with
a conventional resistor.
So, back to my torch. I unscrewed
the switch end, removed the battery
pack and unscrewed the LED end
from the main barrel. Looking at the
rear of the LED assembly, there is
a round retainer that has two holes
in it. Needle-nosed pliers are used
to unscrew this. Once removed, the
LED assembly, reflector and lens can
be removed.
When I removed the lens, I found
that it was shattered around the outside edge, which explained why the
torch had been behaving erratically.
With everything at the front loose, the
LED assembly could not make proper
contact with the barrel.
So I needed a new lens but what to
use? While I was contemplating what I
could make a new lens from, I spotted
a cracked CD case, with a clear polycarbonate lid. This would be ideal. I
marked out a circle the correct size
and cut it out roughly with a hacksaw
blade, before finally filing it to size.
The torch was then reassembled, after
which it worked perfectly again. SC
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July 2014 47
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
New express PCB services from QualiEco
The team at QualiEco Circuits Pty
Ltd is well known for providing excellent quality electronic manufacturing
services and solutions.
The company has recently launched
express services in all product categories (refer to the advertisement on page
45 for more detail). Hundreds of customers in Australia and New Zealand
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Contact:
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Tel: (1300) BUYPCB (1300 289 722)
Website: www.qualiecocircuits.com.au
Wiltronics’ new RBX1
Desktop 3D Printer
3D printers have come a long
way in recent times – no longer
do they have to look like HeathRobinson nightmares!
Typical of modern 3D printers
is the Robox RBX1 Desktop 3D
Printer which Wiltronics have introduced to their range.
It uses fused filament fabrication
(FFF) which works in a similar way
to a hot-melt glue gun, using plastic
filament instead of glue sticks and a
digitally controlled head to lay down
material layer on layer to make threedimensional parts.
With dual nozzles, it’s up to 300%
faster than others on the market. The
dual nozzles mean the Robox can produce highly detailed exterior surfaces
(the bits you can see) and quickly fill
them using the larger nozzle.
returns to Sydney for 2014
The replaceable heated bed is easily removable and is made from PEI
laminate which requires no tape, glues
or special preparation.
Maximum build size is 210 x 150 x
100mm and layer resolution is as high
as 20 microns,
You can download a product PDF
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Contact:
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Unit 4 Cnr Ring Rd & Sturt St, Ballarat Vic 3350
Tel: (03) 5334 2513 Fax: (03) 5334 1845
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Colourful range of quality connectors from Germany
Enertel have been appointed the Australian distributors of the renowned German-made Schutzinger
range of plugs, sockets, connectors, etc.
Apart from their outstanding quality, one of the
features of the Schutzinger range is their range of
colours. This means that equipment connections
can be colour coded for instant recognition and
fewer errors.
Enertel also supplies high voltage electrical Contact:
components and specialised test equipment Enertel
to the electrical supply industry, transformer PO Box 784, Winston Hills NSW 2153
manufacturers, motor rewind shops and Tel: (02) 9674 4748
Website: www.enertel.com.au
large servicing organisations.
48 Silicon Chip
ElectroneX – The Electronics Design &
Assembly Expo returns to Australian Technology Park, Sydney on 10-11 September.
Alternating annually between Melbourne
and Sydney, this specialised event is
the major focal point for the electronics
industry in Australia, designed to help
professionals across a vast array of industry sectors to stay in touch with the
latest electronics technology developments
for systems integration and production
electronics.
Over 80 companies will showcase
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releases for industry, scientific and commercial applications.
The SMCBA – Electronics Design &
Manufacture Conference is being held
in conjunction with the exhibition and
attracted over 200 delegates at the last
Sydney event.
Design, electronic & electrical engineers,
OEM, scientific, IT and communications
professionals and service technicians are
invited to attend the event where they will
find the latest technology driving future
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Australian Exhibitions & Events
Suite 11, 263 Lorimer St, Pt Melbourne, Vic 3207
Tel: (03) 9676 2133 Fax: (03) 9676 2533
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• Gold plated PCB surface
• Top and bottom overlay
• Yellow solder mask
• Clearly marked GND
and 5V rails beside
prototyping
area
$ 45
XC-4214
4
2
50 Silicon Chip
USBDroid with Onboard
Android/USB Host
Includes onboard Ethernet, a
USB-serial converter, a
microSD card slot for
storing gigabytes of web
server content or data, and
even Power-over-Ethernet
support.
To order call 1800 022 888
• ATmega328P MCU
running at 16MHz
• 10/100base-T Ethernet built-in
XC-4216
$
EtherMega
6995
The ultimate network-connected Arduino-compatible
board: combining an ATmega2560 MCU, onboard
Ethernet, a USB-serial converter, a microSD card
slot for storing gigabytes of web server
content or data, power-over Ethernet
support, and even an onboard
switchmode voltage regulator
so it can run on up to 28VDC
without overheating.
• 10/100base-T Ethernet
built-in
• 54 digital I/O lines
• 16 analogue inputs
XC-4256
Also available: Mega Prototyping
Shield to suit XC-4257 $17.95
$
119
433MHz Receiver Shield
Add a receiver module to your Arduino project to
receive signals from 433MHz wireless devices
including weather stations, home automation remote
controls, power consumption meters, car alarms,
etc. Supplied with 433MHz receiver module.
• Fully pre-assembled
except for headers
• Includes stackable
headers that you can
solder in place
• Gold plated
surface
$
XC-4220
29
• Built-in charger
XC-4222
$
6995
StepDuino Arduino Compatible
A self-contained board with onboard stepper motor
drivers, servo interface, microSD card slot, and 20x4
character LCD. Perfect for building robots or
other mechatronics projects: just
connect the stepper
motors and go!
• 2 x 4-wire stepper
motor controllers
• 1 x servo interface
• Serial communications
header
• Compatible with the
Arduino IDE
XC-4249
$
149
H-Bridge Motor Driver Shield
Directly drive DC motors using your Arduino
compatible board and this shield, which provides
PWM (Pulse-Width Modulation) motor output on 2
H-bridge channels to let your board
control the speed, direction and
power of two motors independently.
Perfect for robotics and motor
control projects.
• Drives up to 2A per motor
channel
XC-4264
$
95
2995
8 Channel Relay Driver Shield
Terminal Shield
Drive up to 8 relays from an
Arduino using just 2 I/O pins.
Perfect for home automation
projects when combined with
relay SY-4052 (available separately
$8.95) and DIN-rail relay
mounting base SY-4063
(available separately $4.95).
Breaks out all the Arduino
headers to handy screw
terminals, making it easy
to connect external wires
without using a soldering
iron. Ideal for quick
experiments or for robust
connections!
• Gold-plated surface
• Large prototyping area
XC-4224
Specially designed to be
compatible with the Android
Open Accessory
Development Kit.
Connect your Android
device like a mobile phone
for all kinds of controller and
networking features.
$
1695
• LED status displays
XC-4276
Also available: 4 Channel Relay
Driver Module for Arduino
XC-4278 $13.95
$
3495
www.jaycar.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
Savings off original RRP. Limited stock on sale items
FOR SIMPLE TO ADVANCED PROJECTS
ARDUINO MODULES
N-MOSFET Driver &
Output Module
This high-power N-MOSFET
module lets you switch high
current loads using a tiny
microcontroller. Works
brilliantly for automotive
projects such as switching
high-power 12V lights and high
wattage LEDs.
• Maximum 60V / 20A
switched load
XC-4244
This module can operate in either +/-1.5g or +/-6g
ranges, giving your project the ability to tell which
way is up. Ideal for robotics projects, tilt
sensors, vehicle dataloggers etc.
• Independent X, Y, and Z
axis outputs
• Can run from either 5V
or 3.3V
XC-4226
$
$
695
Sense magnetic presence, rotating wheels
and magnets, door and arm sensors,
and anything else magnetic nearby
this sensor.
1995
• Green "triggered" LED for
easy setup and use
• 2.5 to 5.5V
operation
$ 95
XC-4242
9
IR Temperature Sensor Module
$
16
Connect this to your board and point it at a
surface or heat source to remotely
measure its temperature. This is our
special version of the industrial
infrared remote thermometer units
with an onboard power
supply, communication
support and a software library
with examples supplied.
95
USB-Serial Adaptor Module
Real-Time Clock Module
Perfect for clock projects, dataloggers or anything that
needs to know the date and time. Keeps accurate time
for years using a tiny coin-cell, and is very simple to
connect to your Arduino project.
• Battery included
XC-4272
Connects to the USB port on your computer and
acts as a virtual serial port, converting the USB
signals to either 5V or 3.3V logic level serial data.
• Size: 46(W) x 26(D) x 10(H)mm
XC-4241
$
2995
2295
Program new applications into a wide range of microcontrollers using this
ICSP programmer with a USB interface. Compatible with a wide range of
microcontrollers, including all Arduino boards.
$
An Atmel AVR ATmega328P microcontroller to build
customised Arduino compatible projects.
Includes 16MHz crystal oscillator.
• Pre-installed Arduino Uno bootloader
ZZ-8726
9
Standard DC Motors
Quality product with hardened drive shaft, sintered
bearings and quality commutator brushes etc.
Ideal for any application where a compact
high torque and reliable motor is
required.
• 2.3mm driveshaft
• M2.6 threaded mounting
• Solder tag terminals
• RPM shown at max power
6V 9,000RPM
12V 8,100RPM
12V 6,500RPM
YM-2712 $6.95
YM-2716 $8.95
YM-2718 $12.95
siliconchip.com.au
Breadboard
Mounted on a metal plate with
1680 tie points, 400 distribution
holes and 1280 terminal holes.
• 3 banana terminals
• Size: 130(W) x 178(H)mm
PB-8816
$
95
3995
Standard 6V Servos with
Metal Gear
Tough, metal geared servos for 1/10th and many
1/8th scale remote control cars, or robotic
applications. Digital control, high torque and fast
rotational speeds. Perfect where precise control
and strength are needed.
• Operating voltage: 4.8 - 7.2V
FROM
$
695
Limited stock
To order call 1800 022 888
Torque 4.8V: 13kg.cm
YM-2763 $29.95
Torque 4.8V:
11kg.cm
YM-2765 $29.95
$
3495
ARDUINO DISPLAYS
128 x 128 Pixel OLED Display Module
High resolution, full colour
OLED display module!
Perfect for graphics,
gauges, graphs, even
make your own video
game or interactive
display.
$
4995
$
8995
RGB LED Cube Kit
95
DOUBLE POINTS!
ATmega328P MCU with Arduino
Uno Bootloader
$
24
• 3.3 to 5V operation
• -33 to +220˚C measurement
range, 1 second response time
XC-4260
• 16,384 full colour RGB
pixels in a 128 x 128 format
• Active display area 28.8 x
26.8mm, (1.5" diagonal)
XC-4270
ICSP Programmer for Arduino
• Supplied with a USB cable and
ISP programming cable
XC-4237
Measure temperature and relative humidity using a
simple interface that requires just three wires
to the sensor: GND, power, and data.
1995
Collect temperature data using your
Arduino! This 1-wire bus temperature
sensor module is easy to connect
and use. You can even
daisy-chain several together
on the same wire.
• -55 to +125˚C temperature
range
• +/-0.5˚C accuracy
• Selectable 9 or 12 bit precision
• Unique device ID coded into
every sensor
XC-4230
Humidity & Temperature
Sensor Module
• -4˚C to +125˚C temperature
range with +/-0.5˚C accuracy
• 0-100% relative humidity
with 2-5% accuracy
• 3 to 5V operation
$
XC-4246
Temperature Sensor Module
Hall Effect Magnetic & Proximity
Sensor Module
$
3-Axis Accelerometer Module
$
2995
each
This stunning 3D-matrix of 64
RGB LEDs incorporates an
onboard Arduino-compatible
controller so you can produce
mesmerising light shows
controlled by software. Use it
as a mood light or create your
own "ambient device" that
gently notifies you of new
email or instant messages.
Some assembly required.
• 4 x 4 x 4 matrix of individually
addressable 8mm RGB LEDs
• Size: 106(W) x 130(H) x
106(D)mm (assembled)
XC-4274
4D Systems
Intelligent
Module with
Touch
This pack allows for
quick connection to
existing Arduino projects
to design and build. Includes
a 3.2" LCD colour display
with resistive touch and multiple
input/outputs, a 4D Arduino shield
and 5 way interface cable.
XC-4280
$
119
www.jaycar.com.au
July 2014 51
3
TOOL KITS
SOLDERING KITS
TS-1652
Excellent value for money that includes all the
soldering essentials for various projects.
Starter Kit
Pack includes 240V 20/130W
turbo soldering iron, spare tip,
stand, solder, metal solder sucker
with spare tip and O-ring.
TS-1651
$
2495
DOUBLE POINTS!
Starter Kit with DMM
$
A complete set including multimeter, 25W soldering iron,
de-soldering tool, screwdrivers, pliers and side cutters.
TS-1652
30 Piece Tool Kit with Case
Minor DIY repairs are a breeze with this 30
piece tool kit. The tools are held securely in
a zip-up case. See website for contents.
• Case size: 210(L) x 160(W) x 48(H)mm
TD-2166
$
3495
500W Electric Drill
DOUBLE POINTS!
$
19
All the tools you need to take
apart your iPhone® for
DIY repairs. See
website for
contents.
• 19 pieces
TD-2113
$
2995
6-pce Electronic Screwdriver Set
Stainless Steel Side Cutter
Low Voltage Circuit Tester
18 Compartment Storage Case
TD-2026
TH-1890
TD-2049
HB-6312
• Includes male & female bullet &
spade connectors + eyes and
butt joiners
TH-1848
$
WATCH REPAIR TOOLS
Jaycar has been fiddling with micro tools for years
now, from tiny jewellers screwdrivers to small spanner
sets to tiny table mounted vices etc.
We have discovered a source of reasonably priced
watchmaker's tools. See our range below:
• 135W
TD-2459
$
3995
DOUBLE POINTS!
Total package valued at $45.80
$
Watch Case Opener
2-pce set. Can open
cases 6-50mm in
diameter.
TH-1929
$
1495
8
$ 95
4
52 Silicon Chip
To order call 1800 022 888
Watch Bracelet Link Removal Pliers
Remove and re-install little
bracelet pins.
TH-1923
$
2995
Pre-cut Heatshrink Tubing Trade Pack
Glue lined heatshrink in an array of sizes to suit all
needs - 60 pieces in total. Supplied in see through
nylon snap shut case.
• 95mm long heatshrink
• Case size: 205(W) x 108(D) x 35(H)mm
WH-5521
$
2795
Watch Case Holder
Adjustable frame with 4
nylon retaining posts to
enable a good safe grip
on the watch case.
TH-1934
2995
Powerful 32,000 RPM rotary tool with numerous attachments.
1m long flexible shaft. Suitable for model making, automotive,
workshop, art, jewellery or sculpture. See website for full
contents.
An ideal kit for anyone needing to etch a circuit
board - complete with an assortment of doublesided copper boards, etchant, working bath and
tweezers. See website
for full list of
inclusions.
HG-9990
13 95
• 30 pieces
TD-2107
2995
PCB Etching Kit
$
Excellent tool kit for electronic
or computer repairs with all
the essentials - cutters,
pliers, screwdrivers
(Phillips head, slotted,
Posidrive), nut drivers
etc. See website for
full contents.
Rotary Tool Kit with Flexible Shaft
$19.95
$13.95
$3.95
$7.95
The tool will cut &
strip wire, crimp
connectors and also
cut a range of metric
bolts. Every car
enthusiast should
have one of these.
1995
Electronic Tool Kit
Includes the tools
required to open
modern games
consoles or
handhelds to clean
or repair them.
See website for
full listing.
TD-2109
15
Automotive Crimp Tool
with Connectors
$
DEAL!
Buy TD-2493 & TD-2151
for $29.90 save $10
95
Working on electronic gear? This tool package includes
screwdrivers that have ergonomic handles with fully
insulated shafts rated for 1000V, a high quality small side
cutter that has thick (2mm) blades, a low voltage circuit
tester (6, 12 & 24V) and a
storage box to keep your
SAVE
small electronic
$
85
components together.
2995
• Requires 2 x AA batteries
TD-2151
Gaming Console
Tool Kit
$
ELECTRONICS STARTER KIT
$
Drill holes in walls easily, on the level
and with no mess! Combination of
laser leveler and drill dust collector
lets you finish jobs in minutes.
• Forward/reverse switch
• Lock setting
• 10mm keyless chuck
• 1.8m cable
TD-2493
Repair Kit For iPhone®
2495
Drill Assistant
Powerful 240V electric
drill suitable for a
variety of tasks
around the house
or on the job.
2995
Watchmakers Mallet
Features 6 interchangeable heads
and weighs almost 90 grams.
TH-1927
$
995
Watchmakers Kit
4 piece kit as shown.
TH-1932
$
2495
www.jaycar.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
Savings off original RRP. Limited stock on sale items
AUTOMOTIVE & TEST
KEEP YOUR HANDS ON THE WHEEL
MP3 FM Modulator
with Remote - 12/24V
Bluetooth® hands-free connectivity for your Smartphone or Tablet.
Play music over an FM band on
your car stereo. Backlit LCD.
Fully adjustable arm for
multi angle viewing.
Rechargeable Visor Mount
• Accepts
SD/MMC,
$
95
USB or
aux input
• 12/24VDC operation
• Includes infrared remote control
AR-3136
14
• FM transmitter for audio
through vehicle radio
• 12/24VDC
• USB charging
$
port (1.0A)
AR-3132
2995
3995
Panel Mount Bluetooth®
Receiver with Microphone
Sticky Grip Phone Holders
• 12VDC
• Bluetooth® 3.0
AR-3129
Plugs into the car's MP3/AUX 3.5mm jack for
hands-free functionality with any Bluetooth®
enabled Smartphone.
Dash/Vent Mount HS-9050 $17.95
Windscreen Mount
HS-9052 $17.95
3995
$
9
4995
Alternator and Battery
Monitor
5 in 1 Easy Tester
95
Simply plugs into your car’s cigarette
lighter socket to indicate alternator
and battery status. Compatible with
12VDC systems.
PP-2142
• 12VDC
QP-2215
$
9
95
$
Battery, Charger and
Alternator Tester
Quickly check the condition of your
vehicles battery, charger or alternator.
Uses three LEDs to indicate
battery condition.
• Compact and lightweight
QP-2258
$
DOUBLE POINTS!
WORKBENCH EQUIPMENT
60W ESD Safe Solder/Desolder
Rework Station
Complete solder/desolder station for production
and service use.
269
• Microprocessor
$
controlled
• Dual LCD displays
• Temperature range 160˚C to 480˚C
• Celsius and Fahrenheit display
TS-1574 WAS $299.00
SAVE
30
$
Quick, easy and secure way to hold your phone as
you drive. Just press your phone onto the sticky
pad! No residue and can be easily
cleaned. Two mounting options:
Allows you to stream music from any Bluetooth® enabled
device over your car/marine radio. Features a microphone
for hands-free calling. One-knob volume and track control.
• 12/24VDC
• Bluetooth® 4.0
AR-3130
Passive, quick and
easy testing solution
$
that performs five
essential tests in the
field: voltage, load, polarity,
voltage drop and continuity.
Plug into car's cigarette lighter for
power and pair with your
Bluetooth® enabled Smartphone
for hands-free functionality.
• Built-in microphone
and speaker
• 12VDC cable and
charger
included
$
AR-3134
HANDS-FREE MICROPHONES
Stereo Bluetooth® Hands-free Car Kit
$
Plug & Pair
Safe, compact and lightweight unit for receiving
phone calls whilst driving. Allows two phones to
connect simultaneously.
12
0 to 32VDC Dual Output
Laboratory Power Supply
95
$
Car Battery Monitor
Simply plug into the cigarette lighter
socket and get an instant LED
readout of the car's battery voltage.
• Operating voltage:
8 - 28VDC
QP-2220
$
1995
DOUBLE POINTS!
Effective, dual 0 to 32VDC 3A power supplies in one
case. The two outputs can be operated independently,
connected in parallel, or series for multiple output
currents and voltages. Backlit and easy to read display.
• Output voltage: 2 x 0 - 32VDC
• Output current: 0 - 3 Amps (x 2)
• Weight: 10kg approx.
• Size: 185(H) x 260(W) x 400(D)mm
MP-3087 WAS $349.00
1795ea
25MHz Dual Channel
Digital Storage Oscilloscope
Ideal for the advanced hobby user or technician and
is particularly suited to audio work. See online for
more details.
$
• 145mm colour TFT LCD
• Size: 310(W) x 150(H) x
130(D)mm
QC-1932 WAS $499.00
469
SAVE
30
$
299
SAVE
50
$
Dynamo-Powered DMM
Autoranging Pocket DMM
• Data hold
• Capacitance and
frequency
QM-1547
• Large LCD
display
DOUBLE POINTS!
• 4000 count
• Cat III, 600V
• Autoranging
• Capacitance
• Frequency
• Data hold and relative functions
QM-1328
Crank the handle for 10 seconds
to provide power for approx.
10 minutes operation. No
batteries required. Cat III,
600V. 10A current.
Limited
stock.
$
1995
siliconchip.com.au
To order call 1800 022 888
Handy pocket DMM packed with
features.
$
29
95
Pro High Temperature
Non-Contact Thermometer
Professional grade infrared thermometer allows
you to measure high temperatures safely.
• Temperature range: -50 to +1000˚C
(-58 to +1832˚F)
• 30:1 distance to spot ratio
$
• Built-in laser pointer
• Automatic data hold
• Backlit LCD
• Moulded carry case
QM-7226 WAS $189.00
169
SAVE
20
$
July 2014 53
www.jaycar.com.au
5
INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY
NETWORKING
Wireless ADSL2+ Modem Routers
High performance routers that provide full ADSL2+ capability and superb
reliability as a cost-effective networking solution for the home. They allow up
to 4 wireless SSIDs which would let you create wireless nodes with varying
permission levels.
1Gbps PCI-E Network Card
Upgrade your PC with this 1Gbps PCI-Express Network
card. Comes with a standard and mini-ATX
brackets for home
theatre PCs or
small servers.
• Complies with ADSL2/2+ standards with downstream and
upstream data rates up to 24Mbps and 1Mbps
• Wi-Fi 802.11b/g/n compatible
• 4 x 10/100Mbps RJ-45 Ethernet ports
N150*
YN-8340 $59.95
N300 with USB Sharing** YN-8342 $84.95
$
* Not available in NZ
** Due end July
• Compatible with
10/100/
1000Mbps speed networks
• Windows compatible
• Size: 65(L) x 66(W)mm
YN-8073
FROM
5995
3D PRINTER KIT - BRING YOUR 3D CREATIONS TO LIFE!
Provides a high performance 10/100/1000Mbps
Ethernet connection for
your laptop, desktop,
MacBook®, or tablet.
Can print objects with maximum dimensions of 200 x
200 x 200mm, in either ABS or PLA plastics (available
separately).
• Size: 45(L) x 25(W) x
15(H)mm
YN-8408
$
This is an advanced level constructional kit, average
build time is 3 - 4 days. For more information on
assembly and the tools required please
visit our website. Extensive online
community support is also
available at:
www.k8200.eu
TL-4020
Filament not included
TL-4022
TL-4024
TL-4060
TL-4062
TL-4070
TL-4072
Universal Wi-Fi Extender
Eliminate Wi-Fi dead zones and
extend the range of existing networks.
Dual band. Increased speed up to
300Mbps. Works with both 2.4GHz
and 5.0GHz routers.
• Wi-Fi
protected
setup
(WPS)
• 802.11N
YN-8364
$
Extend your home/office network over your
mains power line. Simply plug the adaptor
into a mains outlet then connect
to your router. Features 3 x
10/100Mbps RJ-45 ports.
8995
$
• Energy saving
mode if no data is
transmitted
• Operating range:
Up to 300m
YN-8354
$149.00
$34.95
$44.95
$44.95
$42.95
$42.95
HIGH SPEED DUAL BAND
http://bit.ly/TL-4020
• 5VDC
• 8 x RJ-45 ports
• Compact size 137(L) x 76(W)
x 25(H)mm
Micro sized, 802.11ac 600 dual band
connectivity for maximum speed and
performance.
• Wi-Fi protected set-up (WPS)
• USB2.0
• 5GHz max speed: 433Mbps
• 2.4GHz max speed: 150Mbps
YN-8328
$
Connects your computer to the latest
micro-USB 3.0 peripherals, such as
external HDD’s, printers and scanners.
3995
• 1.8m
WC-7774
$
$
FROM
2495
Combines three networking tools into one: Wi-Fi range
extender, Wi-Fi access point or a wired/wireless router.
Fully supports 802.11b/g/n standards and provides
excellent wireless coverage.
• 1 x RJ-45 Fast Ethernet WAN port
• 4 x RJ-45 Fast Ethernet LAN ports
• WPS (Wi-Fi Protected Setup)
• WEP, WPA & WPA2 encryption
150Mbps
YN-8325 $39.95
10/100/1000Mbps N-Way Gigabit Switch
YN-8078 $59.95
300Mbps
YN-8327 $59.95
54 Silicon Chip
To order call 1800 022 888
1495
Wireless 802.11n Intelligent Routers
10/100Mbps N-Way Switch
YN-8077 $24.95
6
USB 3.0 Male A to
Micro B Lead
Wireless Network Adaptor
8 Port Ethernet Switches
129
NOTE: Mains wiring
must be on the same
circuit phase
DOUBLE POINTS!
Enhance network performance and efficiency. Mains
powered or via USB port. Supports auto-negotiation
and cable length detection. Includes power supply
and USB power adaptor.
4995
3 Port Ethernet Adaptor
1299
ACCESSORIES TO SUIT:
3D Printer Controller Module
3D Printer LED Light
1.75mm PLA 3D Printer Filament
3.00mm PLA 3D Printer Filament
1.75mm ABS 3D Printer Filament
3.00mm ABS 3D Printer Filament
1995
USB 3.0 Gigabit Ethernet Adaptor
Supplied as a DIY kit, once assembled you can turn 3D
digital images into real life plastic objects. A very fast,
reliable and precise 3D printer that won't break the
bank.
$
$
$
FROM
39 95
DOUBLE POINTS!
www.jaycar.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
Savings off original RRP. Limited stock on sale items
SIGHT & SOUND
IMPROVE YOUR TV RECEPTION
MHL to HDMI Converter
4G/LTE Filter for Digital
TV Reception
• In-line coax connection
• Waterproof design
• Frequency range:
5-790MHz
• No power supply
required
LT-3062
• F connector in, F connector out
• Frequency range: 46-860MHz
• Gain control: 15dB VHF,
10dB UHF
LT-3285
Connect this MHL (Mobile High-Definition
Link) to HDMI converter to your
HDTV (HDMI cable not
included) to view full 1080p
video at 30/60Hz or mirror
everything on your MHL
equipped device. Supplied
with an 11 pin micro-B adaptor for use on
Samsung® S3/4 or Note 2.
Single Output Plug-in
Indoor TV Booster
Blocks unwanted signals from 4G/LTE
mobile transmitters giving you clear
uninterrupted reception.
$
Simple and neat solution to
boosting your TV antenna signals.
Plug into a mains outlet for up to
20dB of signal amplification.
1495
• Supported resolution:
480p, 720p, 1080i, 1080p
• Mains adaptor included
AC-1681
Limited
stock.
$
129
NOTE: *Distance will vary depending on the resolution and
cable specifications used. See website for full specifications.
• 1 x HDMI input;
4 x HDMI outputs
AC-1702
Limited stock.
Not available online
89
WATCH TV
ALL OVER
THE HOUSE!
95
Designed for use when space is limited. Features
fold out mounting clamps for easy installation and
a flush mount cover to conceal
the speaker.
• 25mm silk dome tweeter
• Swivel tweeter mount
• Power: 30WRMS
• Sold individually
CS-2464 WAS $59.95
$
4995
Limited stock. Hurry!
129
SAVE
10
20
DOUBLE POINTS!
$
169
Stereo Amplifier with Remote Control
Higher power with a USB MP3 player function in a
standard Hi-Fi component size.
• 2 x 200WRMS
channel
• Inputs: DVD/CD,
aux 1&2, phono,
tape, USB, tuner
• 20Hz - 20kHz
frequency
• Size: 430(W) x 241(D)
x 114(H)mm
AA-0484 WAS $329
$
299
SAVE
30
$
Ultra-thin 5" 2 Way Speakers
Dual Channel / Bridged Rack Mount
Amplifiers
FROM
Versatile rack mount amplifiers that
$
suit a variety of applications. Solid
• Power: 30WRMS
• Wall mount
• Sold as a pair
CS-2461
• Dual channel / bridged
• Fan cooled
• Separate level controls for each channel
• Clipping and overload protection indicator LEDs
• 2U rack mount / 3U subwoofer amplifier
$
2.4GHz DIGITAL Wireless
Audio Amplifier
Send crystal clear 2.4GHz audio from your Hi-Fi or
portable music device to speakers up to 20m away
without messy wiring. Power supplies included.
Ramp not included
siliconchip.com.au
5995
Combines our 8" subwoofer (CS-2433) and a pair of 2.5"
cube speakers (CS-2431), great for a home theatre or
gaming console. Just add a speaker cable.
• Power: 50WRMS
• Sold as a pair
CS-2478
WAS $149
$
$
DOUBLE POINTS!
Versatile speakers that can be mounted to a
wall or ceiling and can be rotated 180˚ for
perfect sound projection.
$
• Support HDMI 1.4
• 5 x HDMI inputs; 1 x HDMI output
AC-1706
99
8" Indoor/Outdoor Speakers
SAVE
• Power: 2 x 15WRMS (4 ohms)
• 3.5mm local input for
Smartphone or MP3 player
connectivity
• Mains or
battery
operated
AR-1895
Switch your TV display between a Blu-ray player,
Playstation or other HDMI source with ease. Onetouch button. Supplied with remote control.
• 120WRMS
• Subwoofer size:
350(L) x 260(W) x 315(H)mm
• Cube speaker size:
90(H) x 88(W) x 100(D)mm
CS-2434
Spare receiver available
separately: AR-1911 $49.95
In-Wall 6.5” 2 Way Speaker with
Swivel Tweeter
2395
2.1 Speaker Subwoofer Package
Transmit quality audio and video around the home or office without running
cables. Works with a range of remotes including Pay TV remotes.
Includes power supply and RCA cables.
$
$
$
5 Input HDMI Switcher
Share the latest HD movies, TV shows, music
videos, corporate videos from a Blu-Ray player, HD
media player or digital set top box across multiple
displays. Supports
stunning 3D content
and 4Kx2K
resolution.
5.8GHz Wireless AV Sender with IR Extender
• 50m range
• Interference
free
AR-1910
3995
4 Port HDMI Splitter
HDMI Over Cat 5/6 Extender
Extend your HDMI signal up to
60m* using a single CAT 5/6
cable. Both unshielded
twisted pair (UTP) and
shielded twisted pair (STP)
cables may be used, however
shielded is recommended.
$
• Supports most Android Smartphones
& Tablets
• Requires USB power
• Lead Length: 90(L)mm
WQ-7424
$
99
To order call 1800 022 888
Consist of 5" woofer/mid and a 30mm mylar
dome yet they are less than 45mm in depth each.
$
79
95
aluminium chassis and front panels.
179
SAVE
20
$
200W AA-0477 WAS $199 NOW $179 SAVE $20
400W AA-0479 WAS $299 NOW $249 SAVE $50
DEAL!
Buy AR-1895 & CS-2461
for $149 save $29.95
www.jaycar.com.au
July 2014 55
7
DIY Securit y & Lighting Projects
DIY WI-FI IP CAMERAS WITH IR
REWARDS SPECIAL!
DIY surveillance cameras that you can view with your web browser or Smartphone app when you're away from
home. Designed to work with any common household Wi-Fi router to enable quick and easy set-up with broad
device compatibility. Motion alarm detection. MJPEG video. 1/5" colour CMOS sensor. IR LEDs for day/night use.
Wi-Fi IP Camera
Pan/Tilt Wi-Fi IP Camera
Our entry level DIY IP camera. Great
for checking up on the house while
you're out and about
QC-3832 WAS $89
$
Pan/tilt functionality so you can
change the view angle as
you please.
QC-3834 WAS $119
SAVE
79
$
10
$
Dome Wi-Fi IP
Camera
20
$
LED Daytime Running Lights Kit
Attractive and subtle lights for your car or truck
that increase vehicle visibility and enhance safety
when driving during the day. Kit includes 10 lights.
Designed for external use with its tough
aluminium housing.
QC-3836 WAS $149
• 60º angle
QC-3831 WAS $89
$
SAVE
79
SAVE
99
Outdoor Wi-Fi IP Camera
For areas needing to convey a sense of professional
monitoring such as retail stores, workshops etc.
$
119
SAVE
10
$
30
$
SUPERBRIGHT LED WORKLIGHTS
High brightness, long life LED worklights suitable for illuminating a warehouse, automotive workshop etc.
Features a high-strength tempered glass cover with a high-pressure die cast aluminium shell. Extremely
low wattage keeps running costs down with an energy efficiency greater than 90%. Environmentally
friendly. IP65 rated.
$
500 Lumen 10W
• Rechargeable
SL-2809
Sign-up now and get DOUBLE points on
selected products in this promotion.
See page 1 for more details.
7495
1500 Lumen 30W
DOUBLE POINTS!
• Rechargeable
SL-2886
$
119
$
99
NOTE: Check your local
State laws when using and installing these lights.
12VDC LED Brake Light Strips
DOUBLE POINTS!
NEW STORE - FAIRY MEADOW
• 70 lumens
• 12/24VDC
• Dustproof and waterproof
• Supplied with appropriate size
hole saw for installation
• Size: 23(Dia) x 24(L)mm
SL-3457
SL-2886
Compared to normal incandescent bulbs LEDs are
brighter, which makes them easier to see from a
distance and light up quicker. 3 piece design, durable
construction and waterproof for exterior mounting.
Install in minutes using 4 pin SAE plug.
Visit us at
99 Princes Highway
NSW 2519
• 1.5m
• 90 x red LEDs
• Size: 1524(L) x 22(W)
x 5(H)mm
SL-3962
ph: (02) 4225 0969
Parking available!
SL-2809
$
4995
YOUR LOCAL JAYCAR STORE - Free Call Orders: 1800 022 888
• AUSTRALIAN CAPITAL TERRITORY
Belconnen
Fyshwick
Ph (02) 6253 5700
Ph (02) 6239 1801
• NEW SOUTH WALES
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Ph (02) 4721 8337
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Ph (07) 5524 6566
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Ph (02) 4954 8100
Ph (02) 4226 7089
Mackay
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Nth Rockhampton
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Ph (07) 4953 0611
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Ph (02) 6021 6788
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Ph (02) 9699 4699
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Ph (02) 9709 2822
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Ph (02) 9678 9669
• SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Bondi Junction
Ph (02) 9369 3899
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Ph (08) 8231 7355
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Ph (02) 9905 4130
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Ph (08) 8276 6901
• NORTHERN TERRITORY
Campbelltown
Ph (02) 4625 0775
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Ph (08) 8255 6999
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Ph (08) 8948 4043
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Ph (02) 9634 4470
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Ph (08) 8262 3200
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Ph (02) 6651 5238
• QUEENSL AND
Modbury
Ph (08) 8265 7611
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Ph (02) 9799 0402
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Ph (07) 3863 0099
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Ph (08) 8387 3847
Erina
Ph (02) 4365 3433
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Ph (07) 3800 0877
• TASMANIA
Fairy Meadow NEW Ph (02) 4225 0969
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Ph (07) 5432 3152
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Ph (03) 6272 9955
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Ph (02) 9439 4799
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Ph (07) 4041 6747
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Ph (03) 6334 2777
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Ph (02) 9476 6221
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Ph (02) 9821 3100
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Ph (07) 3245 2014
• VICTORIA
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Ph (02) 4934 4911
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Ph (03) 9585 5011
WE HAVE
Newcastle
Ph (02) 4968 4722
Labrador
Ph (07) 5537 4295
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Ph (03) 9384 1811
MOVED
Arrival dates of new products in this flyer were confirmed at the
HEAD OFFICE
ONLINE ORDERS
time of print but delays sometimes occur. Please ring your local
320 Victoria Road, Rydalmere NSW 2116
Website: www.jaycar.com.au
store to check stock details. Savings off Original RRP.
Prices valid from 24th June 2014 to 23rd July 2014.
Ph: (02) 8832 3100 Fax: (02) 8832 3169
Ferntree Gully
Frankston
Geelong
Hallam
Kew East
Melbourne
Mornington
Ringwood
Roxburgh Park
Shepparton
Springvale
Sunshine
Thomastown
Werribee
WE HAVE
MOVED!
Ph (03) 9758 5500
Ph (03) 9781 4100
Ph (03) 5221 5800
Ph (03) 9796 4577
Ph (03) 9859 6188
Ph (03) 9663 2030
Ph (03) 5976 1311
Ph (03) 9870 9053
Ph (03) 8339 2042
Ph (03) 5822 4037
Ph (03) 9547 1022
Ph (03) 9310 8066
Ph (03) 9465 3333
Ph (03) 9741 8951
• WESTERN AUSTRALIA
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Midland
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Ph (08) 9301 0916
Ph (08) 9493 4300
Ph (08) 9586 3827
Ph (08) 9250 8200
Ph (08) 9328 8252
Ph (08) 9592 8000
Email: techstore<at>jaycar.com.au
Occasionally
there are C
discontinued
items advertised on a special / lower price in this promotional flyer that has limited to nil stock in
56 Silicon
hip
certain stores, including Jaycar Authorised Stockist. These stores may not have stock of these items and can not order or transfer stock.
siliconchip.com.au
Salvage It!
By BRUCE PIERSON
From Junk Bin to Junk Box:
Wrecking Computer
Components for Parts
That “latest and greatest” computer you proudly bought three or four
years ago is today’s door stop. Even if it still works, it’s as slow as a
wet week and probably doesn’t even run today’s software. In this final
instalment in the “wrecking computers” series, we look at what you can
do with it – or any other obsolete/dead components.
W
ell, you could wreck them for parts. A good idea
is to have a “junk bin” and toss anything that’s
no longer needed into it. Junk Bin? What’s the
difference between that and the “junk box?”
Every hobbyist has a junk box: a place where you store
an assortment of (usually) used or surplus parts that are
too good to throw out and just might be useful . . . one day.
On the other hand, a junk bin is like a “half way house”
where you toss old and dead stuff, ready for wrecking (one
day!), to get the parts to feed your junk box.
So you have a look in your junk bin and you might find,
just like those pictured above:
• an old CD-ROM drive (still works but far too slow to be of
any use)
• a dead hard drive (well, your computer doesn’t recognise it so
you think it’s dead)
• a definitely dead floppy drive (umm, what’s a floppy disk!!)
• a dead sound card
siliconchip.com.au
• a dial-up modem (wow!)
• a ratty old speaker
• and a dead graphics card
You have some spare time, so you decide to reduce the
amount of stuff in your junk bin, so that you can increase
the amount of stuff in your junk box.
So where do we start?
The CD-ROM drive will be a good starting point. Usually, you can find four screws on the bottom. Once these
are undone, the unit can usually be taken apart, sometimes
requiring undoing some clips in the process.
Then the front panel can be unclipped and the inside
parts removed from the case. Then it’s just a matter of undoing screws and clips until you have everything removed.
The PCB can then be processed for useful components
using a soldering iron for the delicate components and then
the blowtorch method for the rest of the components (see
July 2014 57
SILICON CHIP February 2014).
The remainder of the hardware really is junk to be binned.
So let’s move on to the hard drive. Start by undoing
any screws on the top cover. Then remove all the stickers,
because the stickers may well be hiding two or three more
screws, which must be removed before the top cover can
be lifted off.
Then it’s just a matter of undoing screws until everything is in pieces and you can see what you have from
the exercise.
You will need a small Torx bit for most hard drives, to
remove the drive platter(s). The PCB on the bottom may be
held on by Philips screws or Torx screws and in a few cases,
Torx screws may be used on the case. It varies depending
on the manufacturer and the size of the hard drive.
Now for the floppy drive: there could be some screws
holding the top on, or it could be just clipped on. There’s
a wide variety of floppy drives and they vary as to how
they are held together.
Just undo any screws you find and un-clip any clips
you find until the unit is completely dismantled. There’s
usually a few components on the PCB that can also be
salvaged in the process.
Some of the more delicate items will need to be removed
with a soldering iron before the rest can be blow-torched off.
The sound card, dial-up modem and graphics card can
be processed using the same approach. First, unscrew any
screws, remove any jumpers and take off any heatsinks or
other attachments.
Arguably the jumpers and the heatsinks will be the
most useful bits for your junk box! But the components
can be removed with a soldering iron or blowtorch and
the remaining junk binned.
The speaker? What is there in a speaker, you ask? A nice,
powerful little magnet that will make a quite good fridge
magnet, if nothing more. To remove it, just grab some pliers
and bend the front frame up until it comes off the magnet
and there you have it.
So, what did we get from these dead and obsolete components?
The picture below shows the range of parts that was
salvaged from each of the obsolete and dead items.
Newer or older types of similar items will have a slightly
different selection of parts, compared to
these particular items.
Here are the parts we salvaged for our junk
box, as photographed below:
CD-ROM drive to repair a DVD player with a faulty tray motor.)
One drive belt to suit the tray motor
Two rods
One small magnet
26 assorted screws,
Two tactile switches
18 electrolytic capacitors
Six rubber mounts
One jumper
One LED
One 3.5mm stereo socket
One 3-position, centre-off momentary switch
One PCB-mount dual potentiometer
A few gears
A selection of SMD components.
From the hard drive:
Two very powerful magnets. (Be careful with these as they can
be quite savage. I suffered a crushed thumb when holding one
of these magnets and getting too close to the other one, which
jumped up to meet the first one, crushing anything in its path,
which happened to be my thumb!)
One platter (unknown use)
Two bearings,
One shaft
One magnetic washer
One washer
Four aluminium brackets
One jumper
25 assorted screws
Several SMD components.
From the floppy disk drive:
One 33-pin connector
One power connector
Five springs
19 assorted screws
One shaft
One bush
One LED
One electrolytic capacitor
One resistor
Three micro-switches
From the CD-ROM drive:
Two motors, one a stepper type, with a gear and
one a DC type, to load and eject the disc (with a
pulley). (I once used a tray motor from a dead
They won’t take up much storage space . . .
so why not store ’em! You never know when
you’ll need a couple of ‘XYZ’ widgets and
you just happen to have a couple, removed
from that old computer!
58 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Four short lengths of hookup wire
Some SMD components.
From the sound card:
Six headers
Four 3.5mm stereo sockets
One small transistor
Eight wire inductors,
One crystal
Four ICs
14 electrolytic capacitors
Some SMD components.
From the dial-up modem:
One isolation transformer
One small PCB speaker
Two small transistors
One crystal
Two greencap capacitors
One ceramic capacitor
One small round bridge rectifier
Two screws
Six electrolytic capacitors
Two opto-couplers
A few SMD components.
From the speaker,
A useful small magnet, which is quite strong for its size.
There are usually two different types of 57mm speakers
in computers. The other type has a smaller magnet, which
can also be salvaged using the same method.
From the video card:
One heatsink
Four screws/nuts from the video
connectors
18 electrolytic capacitors
Three video connectors
Two 3A diodes
One inductor
One crystal
Some SMDs components.
So, that was quite a surprise as to just what was salvaged
from those dead and useless items. At first glance, it may
have seemed that some of the items would not have anything
much in them worth salvaging but a closer look revealed
quite a lot of goodies.
It was worthwhile to salvage these parts before binning
the leftover junk.
Some of the items had some SMD components in/on
them. These were salvaged by heating the back of the PCB
until the solder holding the SMDs on melted and then the
PCB was knocked on a hard surface to dislodge the SMDs.
It’s really not much use saving any SMD that is tiny with
multiple leads, but small capacitors and resistors may be
useful for a project or repair in the future.
You may have noticed that I haven’t yet tried to identify
the small components above. That’s a job for another day,
as at the same time I always test any component before
using it, otherwise I may be introducing a fault that wasn’t
there to start with!
SC
siliconchip.com.au
July 2014 59
By GEOFF GRAHAM
Micromite, Pt3: Build An
ASCII Video Terminal
Now you can build your own VT100-compatible ASCII Video
Display Terminal. It uses just one chip and lets you add a video
display, keyboard and USB to your next microcontroller project.
It’s the perfect companion for microcontrollers with serial input/
output such as the Micromite and the PICAXE.
M
ANY OLDER readers will remember the days when an ASCII
terminal was the standard method of
interfacing to a computer. In those
days, the DEC VT100 was the “gold
standard” for such a terminal. It had a
keyboard, a 24 x 80 character display
and an RS232 interface to allow connection to a multi-user minicomputer.
That all changed with the introduction of the PC with its integrated
display and networking over Ethernet.
In recent years though, there has been
a resurgence of serial communications.
A serial interface is easy to implement
on a microcontroller and devices such
as the Micromite and PICAXE use serial as their basis for communications,
as do many others.
You could use a PC or Mac to con60 Silicon Chip
nect to these microcontrollers via a serial port but they are large and clumsy
and not a long-term solution if your
project needs a permanent display.
That’s where this ASCII Video Terminal comes in. It uses a single chip to
add video, a keyboard and USB to an
external microcontroller via a serial
interface.
Other (more powerful) small computers also often rely on a serial interface. For example, the Raspberry
Pi puts out a series of informative
diagnostic messages on its serial interface as it boots up and this project
will display them for you. Once the
Raspberry Pi has booted, you can then
log into it via this serial interface using
the terminal’s keyboard.
By the way, the term ASCII refers to
the character encoding standard used
by the VT100. Back in the days of the
VT100, there were other competing
standards such as EBCDIC (used by
IBM) but these days all serial communications use ASCII.
Main features
An accompanying panel lists the
main features of the ASCII Video Terminal but in summary you can use
either a VGA monitor, a composite
monitor or a TV (PAL or NTSC) to
display the video output. As indicated, the input can either come from
a standard PS/2 keyboard or from a PC
via the USB interface.
Any of these I/O facilities can be
left out if you don’t need them. For
example, if you simply wanted to add
siliconchip.com.au
REG1 MCP1700-3302E
+5V
GND
10 µF
16V
+3.3V
OUT
IN
10 µF
16V
CON3
EXT 5V
A
100nF
100nF
+
K
–
ACTIVITY
13
Vdd
82Ω
BOOTLOAD
JP1
28
AVdd
VUSB
PGED3
PGEC3
CON4
6
5
4
17
4
RB3
RB8
RB4
4–PGD
5–PCC
7
6–NC
11
JP3
16
15
22
2
21
3
RB7
Vbus
D–
D+
RPA4
RB2
CON6
220Ω
12
150Ω
6
5
4
TxD
GND
JP3 BAUD
RATE SETTINGS
A
B
C
9
X1 8MHz
RATE
115,200
57,600
38,400
19,200
27pF
VGA OUT
6
1
7
2
8
3
9
4
10
5
11
12
13
14
15
470Ω
10k
RxD
BAUD RATE
SELECT
SELECT
COLOUR
100k
3.3V
C
B
IC1
PIC32MX250PIC3
2 MX25026
SCK2
F128B
+3.3V
TTL SERIAL
2
A
4.7k
CON1
3–GND
3
4.7k
1
1– MCLR
3
1
2
CON2
1
2–Vcc
PS2 KBD
JP2
(NOT POPULATED)
RPB5
4.7k
USE USB
POWER
CON7
ICSP
23
MCLR
14
USB
+3.3V
4.7k
λ LED1
27pF
10
DE-15F
RPB1
RB13
RPB0
RB14
OSC1
RB9
OSC2
AVss
27
9,600
Vcap
Vss
8
Vss
19
24
25
18
20
CON5
COMPOSITE
VIDEO OUT
10 µF
16V
4,800
2,400
1,200
(DEFAULT
CONFIG.)
IN
SC
20 1 4
LED
MC P1700
ASCII VIDEO TERMINAL
OUT
K
GND
A
Fig.1: the circuit is based on a PIC32MX250-F128B microcontroller (IC1). The table at bottom left shows the range of
baud rates that can be selected using jumper block JP3. A black dot indicates that a jumper should be placed at that
position. The default (no jumpers) can be set using the Set-up menu to any speed between 40 and 1,000,000 bps, the
default being 1200bps.
a small video display to a PICAXE
project, you could do this by using the
terminal’s microcontroller and seven
other passive components to drive a
low-cost reversing camera monitor.
The USB and keyboard parts can be
left out if not required, resulting in a
simple, low-cost display.
You can use the same minimalist approach with the SILICON CHIP
Micromite (see May & June 2014 issues). However, the full ASCII Video
Terminal with a keyboard and display
works particularly well with this device. Together, the two provide almost
the same functionality as our popular
siliconchip.com.au
Maximite but in two low-cost 28-pin
chips.
This is the key to this project. You
can build the full ASCII Video Terminal on a PCB as described here or you
can just pick the parts that you need
and incorporate them into your own
project. Because this project is based
on a single low-cost and easy to solder
microcontroller, this is easy to do.
Circuit details
Refer now to Fig.1 for the complete
circuit details of the ASCII Video Terminal. This shows just how simple the
project really is. It’s based on a single,
yet powerful, PIC32 microcontroller
from Microchip. This 28-pin chip generates the video, handles the keyboard
and also manages the serial and USB
interfaces. The other components are
mostly there to ensure correct signal
levels.
The PIC32MX250F128B microcon
troller (IC1) used here is a close cousin
to the recommended chip for the
Micromite, the only difference being that this one supports USB. So if
you have the facilities to program the
chip used in the Micromite, you can
also program this device. If you don’t
want to do that, you can purchase a
July 2014 61
Otherwise, it assumes that a composite
monitor is attached and it configures
itself to drive this type of monitor.
Note that you should not connect
both types of monitor simultaneously.
VGA output
The ASCII Video Terminal emulates the original Digital Equipment Corporation
(DEC) VT100 video terminal shown here.
This is an example of the cheap composite monitors that are available (this one
cost $19). They are normally used with vehicle reversing cameras but they also
work great as a graphics display for a microcontroller using the ASCII Video
Terminal microcontroller as the video processor.
pre-programmed chip from the SILICON
CHIP On-line Store.
As shown on Fig.1, IC1 produces
separate output signals for VGA video
and composite video. Since separate
resistive divider networks set the
video levels, this means that it can
provide an optimal display, regardless
62 Silicon Chip
of which output you are using.
At power up, the firmware first
checks if a VGA monitor is connected.
That’s done by measuring the impedance of pin 12 of IC1 to ground – if it’s
less than 2kΩ, there must be a VGA
monitor connected and the firmware
configures itself to drive this monitor.
The video signal is generated using
a similar approach to that used in the
Maximite series of computers. First,
the video is written as a bitmap to a
bank of memory. Then, using DMA
(Direct Memory Access) and an SPI
interface, the series of bits (pixels)
are streamed from the memory to the
monitor. The output is monochrome
(just like the original VT100).
A full scan line from the VGA output is 480 pixels wide which displays
perfectly on an old-fashioned CRT
monitor. On an LCD monitor, the character formation is not as good due to
the monitor having to map this output
to its native resolution. The result is
perfectly legible and usable but you do
get the best image with a CRT monitor.
The default display is 24 lines x 80
characters wide, which is the VT100
standard. Alternatively, by using the
Set-Up menu (more on this later) or by
sending the correct escape code, you
can switch the display to 36 lines x 80
characters wide if you wish.
For VGA, the horizontal and vertical
sync outputs are directly connected to
the monitor which accepts standard
TTL signalling levels. The video signal
is different and is limited to a maximum level of 0.7V. This is achieved
by connecting a 220Ω resistor in series
with the 75Ω input impedance of the
monitor.
You can select the colour of the text
on the monitor by bridging one of three
sets of solder pads (SELECT COLOUR)
in series with the VGA socket on the
PCB. These are marked GRN, BLU and
RED, ie, for green, blue and red. We
chose green, as many ASCII terminals
from that era used a green phosphor
and the colour is soothing to the eye.
You can select more colours by
bridging two sets of pads (eg, green
and red will give yellow). However,
this will have the effect of halving the
input impedance of the VGA monitor
(as seen by the ASCII Video Terminal)
and so the 220Ω series resistor should
be reduced to 165Ω to compensate (ie,
use two 330Ω resistors in parallel).
The limiting factor is the output
drive capability of the microcontroller
which must not exceed 15mA. With
siliconchip.com.au
one colour and a 220Ω resistor, the
peak current is 10mA. With two colours and 165Ω, it is 14mA which is
just within the chip’s specification.
If you select two colours, the display
will be not as bright as for a single colour and you will be pushing the chip
close to its limit. For these reasons, we
recommend sticking with one colour
(eg, green).
Composite video output
The composite video output is
generated in a similar manner to the
VGA output but with different timings.
Another difference is that the video
and sync signals are summed via 150Ω
and 470Ω resistors in conjunction
with the 75Ω input impedance of the
monitor to give the correct composite
voltage levels.
By default, the composite output
uses PAL timing (ie, 625 lines) which
gives a display of 18 lines x 50 characters wide. You can also select NTSC
timing via the Set-Up menu and in
this mode it displays 15 lines x 50
characters. In both cases, the output is
monochrome (black and white).
Composite mode is especially useful
when used with cheap monitors intended for use with reversing cameras
on trucks and cars. They come in a variety of sizes and prices but a small 4.3inch monitor can be bought cheaply
on eBay (ours cost just US$19). This
display can be mounted on the front
of an instrument case and can show
an amazing amount of information,
including graphics – all driven by a
Micromite or PICAXE.
On such a small screen, the standard
font can be hard to read so the ASCII
Video Terminal has two extra fonts
which can be selected by sending the
appropriate escape codes. These give
extra large letters that really stand out,
even on a 4.3-inch screen.
Serial interface
Connector CON1 is the serial data
interface for the ASCII Video Terminal, with pins 2 & 3 going to the RxD
(receive data) and TxD (transmit data)
lines respectively. As shown, the RxD
line is fed to pin 5 of IC1 and is pulled
high via a 100kΩ resistor to prevent it
from floating if it is not connected to
anything. The 10kΩ resistor in series
with pin 5 provides protection when
the input is connected to a circuit that
uses signalling voltages above 3.3V.
Pin 4 of IC1 is the TxD output and
siliconchip.com.au
Main Features
• Single chip ASCII Video display terminal with VT100 and VT52 emulation.
• VGA or Composite Video (PAL or NTSC) output with automatic switch over.
• VGA can display 24 lines x 80 characters or an extended resolution of 36
lines x 80 characters.
• Composite video can display 18 lines x 50 characters (PAL) or 15 lines x 50
characters (NTSC).
• Standard PS/2 compatible keyboard input with support for standard US
keyboard layout or French, German, Italian, Belgian, Russian or United
Kingdom keyboard layouts.
• TTL or RS232 serial input/output. Baud rates from 40 to 1,000,000bps with
odd, even or no parity and one or two stop bits.
• USB input with serial emulation – can be used as a USB to serial converter.
• Extended VT100 terminal emulation. Extensions include graphics codes for
drawing lines, boxes and circles (which can be hollow or filled).
• Graphics resolution is 480 x 288 pixels in VGA 25 line mode, 480 x 432
pixels in VGA 36 line mode, 304 x 216 in PAL composite and 304 x 180
pixels in NTSC composite mode.
• Three inbuilt fonts (standard, large and jumbo) and four character attributes
(normal, underline, reverse and invisible).
• Power requirement: 5V at 50mA plus any current drawn from the 3.3V pin on
the serial connector.
is directly connected to the external
device via CON1. The serial connector also provides a +3.3V output
and a ground connection. The 3.3V
connection can be used for powering
other circuitry such as an RS232 converter or a Micromite and can supply
a maximum of 100mA.
The voltage levels used in the serial
interface are TTL which means that
idle is voltage high, the start bit is
voltage low, data uses a voltage high
for logic 1 and the stop bit is voltage
high. You can also use RS232 signalling but more on that later.
Setting the baud rate
The baud rate is set by sliding shorting plugs over pairs of pins on jumper
block J3. The table in Fig.1 shows the
various baud rates that are available.
This method makes it easy to select
standard baud rates from 1200 to
115,200 bits per second (bps).
Note that the baud rate is set when
the ASCII Video Terminal is powered
up, so if you change a jumper you
will have to cycle the power for it to
be recognised.
The baud rate selected when there
are no shorting plugs installed is
slightly different – by default it is 1200
bps but this can be changed in the SetUp menu to anything from 40 bps to
1,000,000 bps (yes, that is a baud rate
of one million bits per second). You
are not just restricted to the standard
baud rates (1200, 2400, etc); instead,
you can set any speed that you require.
For example, you could set the speed
to 2222 bps if you wished.
This arrangement gives you the best
of both worlds. You can either select
a range of standard baud rates using
jumpers or you can configure any other
non-standard speed via the Set-Up
menu. Using this menu, you can also
select other options, including parity
(odd, even or none), the number of
data bits and the number of stop bits.
The processing required to convert
each character to a bitmap (ie, for the
video display) limits the sustained
speed that the terminal can handle
to about 44,000 bps. To offset this,
the firmware uses a substantial input
buffer that can store incoming characters while the preceding characters
are processed.
Most systems only send a block
of data at a time (ie, a screen full of
characters) because the user would
not have the time to read the data
otherwise. The Micromite is the same;
the editor only displays one screen of
characters, then waits for further user
input. With its large input buffer, the
ASCII Video Terminal can handle very
July 2014 63
100nF
13
Vdd
+3.3V
28
AVdd
23
VUSB
MCLR
10k*
RxD
TxD
5
4
TxD
RxD
(9600 baud)
OFF-BOARD
MICROMITE
OR
PICAXE
RPB1
Vbus
RPB0
PIC32MX250PIC3
2 MX250F128B
CON1
D–
D+
TTL SERIAL
Vcap
9
8MHz
10
GND
27pF
27pF
OSC1
PGEC3
OSC2
AVss
27
Vss
8
RB3
Vss
19
1
15
4.7k
22
2
21
3
20
3
CON2
USB
1
4
10 µF
16V
7
* REQUIRED ONLY IF THE MICRO USES +5V
USB TO SERIAL BRIDGE
Fig.2: if all you need is a USB-to-Serial bridge, you can strip the circuit shown
in Fig.1 down to the configuration shown here. It can be built on the PCB used
for the full ASCII Video Terminal or on a piece of scrap stripboard.
100nF
13
Vdd
+3.3V
28
AVdd
23
VUSB
MCLR
RxD
TxD
OFF-BOARD
MICROMITE
OR
PICAXE
TxD
10k*
5
PIC32MX250PIC3
2 MX250F128B
CON1
8MHz
GND
27pF
RB2
RB14
9
27pF
10
1
RPB1
(9600 baud)
TTL SERIAL
RB9
OSC1
Vcap
OSC2
AVss
27
Vss
8
The ASCII Video Terminal can
be used directly with most RS232
sources but if you want a fullycompliant RS232 interface you
should purchase one of these. It’s
an RS232 converter that can be
powered from the terminal and
will drive the serial signal over
long lines. They’re available for
just a few dollars on eBay.
Vss
19
6
25
150Ω
CON5
COMPOSITE
VIDEO OUT
470Ω
18
20
10 µF
16V
into the Set-Up menu to invert the
signal polarity of the serial interface
and then you can directly connect
an RS232 device. This arrangement
does violate the RS232 rules but it
should work fine for short cables up
to a metre or two. On the other hand,
if your cable run is much longer, then
you should use an RS232-to-TTL
converter as that will provide a far
better level of immunity from electrical noise.
Keyboard interface
COMPOSITE VIDEO INTERFACE
* REQUIRED ONLY IF THE MICRO USES +5V
Fig.3: this circuit can be used if all you need is a simple video display for a
project. It could be used to drive a low-cost 4.3-inch composite monitor as
used with vehicle reversing cameras
high speed data transmissions without
losing any characters.
RS232
RS232 is a serial signalling standard
that’s similar to the TTL signalling
used here. The difference is that, for
RS232, the polarity is inverted and
the voltage levels swing from -12V to
+12V. RS232 is used in PC serial ports,
older modems, test equipment and the
original VT100 terminal.
The “correct” way to connect an
RS232 device to the ASCII Video Terminal to is to use an RS232-to-TTL
converter such as the one shown in the
64 Silicon Chip
above photo. These don’t cost much
and generally use a Maxim MAX232
or MAX3232 chip which generates the
required signalling voltages internally.
However, you can directly connect
an RS232 device to the ASCII Video
Terminal if you wish. That’s because
the 10kΩ resistor in the RxD (receive
data) line will protect the PIC32 from
the high voltage swing. In addition,
most RS232 devices have a threshold
of about +1V when detecting if a signal
is high or low and so data from the
PIC32, with its output of 0-3.3V, will
be detected as a valid signal.
Basically, all you need to do is go
The keyboard input is via a standard
IBM PS/2 connector. Keyboards with
this connector are becoming harder
to find but they are still out there and
generally very cheap. The keyboard
input will also work with keyboards
that are dual-standard USB or PS/2
(ie, those that come with a suitable
adapter).
By default, the ASCII Video Terminal is configured to work with the
standard US keyboard layout, as used
in Australia and NZ. However, using
the Set-Up menu, you can also select
French, German, Italian, Belgian, Russian or United Kingdom layouts. Note
that this does not include generating
the special characters required by
some languages.
All the standard keys on the keyboard will work, including the numeric keypad, Num Lock, Shift and Caps
siliconchip.com.au
Lock. And by sending the appropriate
VT100 escape commands to the ASCII
Video Terminal, a program can also
independently turn the three LEDs (for
Num Lock, Caps Lock & Scroll Lock)
on the keyboard on and off.
Any keystrokes on the keyboard
will be sent out on the TxD (transmit)
line of the serial interface. This means
that if you don’t have the terminal
connected to anything, then pressing
keys will not show anything on the
screen. This means that when testing
the ASCII Video Terminal, the TxD
and RxD lines on the serial interface
should be bridged so that you can then
see the results of your key presses on
the screen.
USB
The USB interface emulates a serial COM connection over USB. This
means that you can open a serial emulator on your computer and anything
you type will be sent out of the ASCII
Video Terminal’s serial interface, just
as if it was typed on its own keyboard.
Similarly, anything received from the
serial interface will be sent via USB to
the computer.
You can easily add USB capability
to a microcontroller with the ASCII
Video Terminal or simply use it to
act as a USB-to-Serial converter for a
Micromite or PICAXE.
To use the USB interface on your
Windows computer, you need to install the SILICON CHIP USB Serial Port
Driver (available from the SILICON
CHIP website). This will work with
all modern versions of Windows and
full instructions are included with
the driver. The USB interface uses the
standard CDC protocol and drivers
are also available on the internet for
the Mac and Linux operating systems.
Power supply
The circuit is powered from an external 5V DC supply and this can be fed in
via the USB connector (ie, USB power)
or via an external connector (CON3). If
you wish to use USB power, you must
install a jumper on JP2. However, if
you do this, make sure that you do
not simultaneously apply power to
the external power connector (CON3)
as that could cause a conflict with the
power supply from the USB host.
The 5V supply is used by the keyboard and is also regulated to 3.3V
by 3-terminal regulator REG1 which
supplies the PIC32 microcontroller
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.4: the Set-Up Menu is accessed by pressing Shift-F12 on the PS/2 keyboard.
All changes are saved in the microcontroller’s flash memory so they will be
remembered even if the power is removed. Note that you must have a keyboard
and a video display attached to access this menu.
(IC1). The specified regulator is a low
drop-out device that will continue to
deliver a stable 3.3V output even when
the USB voltage is at the lower limit
allowed by the USB standard (which
is 4.5V).
The 10µF capacitor on pin 20 (Vcap)
of the microcontroller deserves special comment. Its ESR must be less
than 1Ω and that means that it must
be a multilayer ceramic capacitor or
a high-quality tantalum type. Some
low-cost tantalums have an ESR higher
than 1Ω so if you suspect that yours
might fall into this category you should
substitute a 47µF tantalum (which
should be well within the limit).
The only other circuit item of note
is the activity LED (LED1). This is illuminated after IC1 has completed its
initialisation and this indicates that all
is well with the chip. LED1 will also
momentarily blink off whenever a keyboard key is pressed or a character is
received on the serial or USB interface,
indicating that activity is taking place.
Selecting functions
The ASCII Video Terminal can be
interfaced to many different devices
but that doesn’t mean they all have to
be used. You can leave off any function and the device will still perform
the other functions. This includes
the USB, the video output and the
keyboard. None of these need to be
connected if your particular application does not require them.
For example, if you just need a simple USB-to-serial bridge in a project,
you could use the circuit shown in
Fig.2. It uses only nine components
including the USB connector and
could be either be built on the ASCII
Video Terminal PCB or built on a scrap
of stripboard.
If you just need a simple display
in a project, you could add a 4.3-inch
graphic display using a low-cost composite monitor. The required circuit
is shown in Fig.3 and uses just 10
components.
Set-Up menu
The Set-Up menu lets you specify
a number of options which will be
stored in non-volatile memory. This
means that they are automatically
recalled when power is applied.
You must have both a keyboard and
a VGA or PAL composite monitor connected to the ASCII Video Terminal to
access this menu. It’s brought up by
pressing Shift-F12 on the keyboard
– see Fig.4.
We have covered most of the options
that are available on the menu before,
so we won’t go over them again. The
only new option is “Display startup
message on/off”.
By default, when the terminal starts
up, it will display a message on the
video output, showing the version
number and copyright. If you don’t
want this, you can disable the message
(just like on the original VT100).
VT100 emulation
We have mentioned VT100 emulation several times before but just what
July 2014 65
ASCII Video Terminal Escape Codes
Note: codes surrounded by angle brackets (< and >; for example, <v> or <h>) represent one or more decimal digits
Auto-wrap mode off
Auto-wrap mode on (default)
ESC [?7l
ESC [?7h
Set 36 lines per screen
Set 24 lines per screen (default)
ESC [?9l
ESC [?9h
Set alternate keypad mode
Set numeric keypad mode (default)
ESC =
ESC >
Turn off all character attributes
Turn off all character attributes
Turn underline mode on
Turn reverse video on
Turn invisible text mode on
Select font #2 (large characters)
Select font #2 (jumbo characters)
ESC [m
ESC [0m
ESC [4m
ESC [7m
ESC [8m
ESC [3m
ESC [6m
Move cursor up n lines
Move cursor down n lines
Move cursor right n lines
Move cursor left n lines
Move cursor to upper left corner
Move cursor to upper left corner
Move cursor to screen location v,h
Move cursor to upper left corner
Move cursor to upper left corner
Move cursor to screen location v,h
Move/scroll window up one line
Move/scroll window down one line
Move to next line
Save cursor position & attributes
Restore cursor position & attributes
ESC [<n>A
ESC [<n>B
ESC [<n>C
ESC [<n>D
ESC [H
ESC [;H
ESC [<v>;<h>H
ESC [f
ESC [;f
ESC [<v>;<h>f
ESC D
ESC M
ESC E
ESC 7
ESC 8
Clear line from cursor right
Clear line from cursor right
Clear line from cursor left
Clear entire line
ESC [K
ESC [0K
ESC [1K
ESC [2K
Clear screen from cursor down
Clear screen from cursor down
Clear screen from cursor up
Clear entire screen
ESC [J
ESC [0J
ESC [1J
ESC [2J
Device status report
ESC 5n (response is ESC 0n)
Get cursor position
Response: cursor is at v,h
ESC 6n
ESC <v>;<h>R
Draw a line
Draw a box
Draw a filled box
Draw a circle
Draw a filled circle
ESC [Z1;<x1>;<y1>;<x2>;<y2>Z
ESC [Z2;<x1>;<y1>;<x2>;<y2>Z
ESC [Z3;<x1>;<y1>;<x2>;<y2>Z
ESC [Z4;<x1>;<y1>;<r>Z
ESC [Z5;<x1>;<y1>;<r>Z
VT52 Compatibility Mode Codes
Enter/exit ANSI mode (VT52)
Enter alternate keypad mode
Exit alternate keypad mode
ESC <
ESC =
ESC >
Move cursor up one line
Move cursor down one line
Move cursor right one char
Move cursor left one char
Move cursor to upper left corner
Move cursor to v,h location
Generate a reverse line-feed
ESC A
ESC B
ESC C
ESC D
ESC H
ESC <v><h>
ESC I
Erase to end of current line
Erase to end of screen
ESC K
ESC J
Identify what the terminal is
Response:
ESC Z
ESC /Z
VT100 Special Key Codes
These are sent from the terminal back to the computer when the
particular key is pressed on the PS/2 keyboard. Note that the
numeric keypad keys send different codes in alternate mode.
See escape codes above to change the keypad mode.
UP
DOWN
LEFT
RIGHT
HOME
INSERT
DEL
END
PUP
PDOWN
F1
F2
ESC [A
ESC [B
ESC [D
ESC [C
ESC [1~
ESC [2~
ESC [3~
ESC [4~
ESC [5~
ESC [6~
ESC [11~
ESC [12~
Reset terminal to initial state
ESC c
Identify what terminal type
ESC [c
Identify what terminal type (another) ESC [0c (response is ESC [?1;0c)
UP
DOWN
LEFT
RIGHT
ESC [13~
ESC [14~
ESC [15~
ESC [17~
ESC [18~
ESC [19~
ESC [20~
ESC [21~
ESC [23~
ESC [24~
ESC [25~
VT52 Special Key Codes
Turn off all three LEDs
Turn on LED Num Lock
Turn on LED Caps Lock
Turn on LED Scroll
F3
F4
F5
F6
F7
F8
F9
F10
F11
F12
F3+0x20
ESC [0q
ESC [1q
ESC [2q
ESC [3q
These codes are sent when the terminal is in VT52 mode. All
other keys will generate the VT100 codes listed above.
ESC A
ESC B
ESC D
ESC C
Fig.5: these are the codes that the terminal will respond to and will send when a special key is pressed. They emulate
most of the functions on both the original DEC VT100 and VT52 terminals. Note that the symbol ESC means the escape
code (decimal 27, hex 1B) and all codes start with this character. For a more detailed explanation of each code use
Google to search for “VT100 User Guide”.
66 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
does it mean in practice?
Basically, the original VT100 would
accept many different codes to perform
special functions such as clear the
screen or position the cursor. The code
would always start with the escape
character which is ‘27’ in decimal or
‘1B’ in hex. It would then be followed
by a number of ASCII characters which
defined the function to be carried out.
That is why they are called “escape
codes”.
You would be hard pressed to purchase a VT100 terminal these days
(most are in museums) but its repertoire of escape codes has become a defacto standard and any serial terminal
worth its salt will recognise VT100
codes. The ASCII Video Terminal implements most of these VT100 escape
codes which means that it will work
with any software that requires VT100
emulation.
Fig.5 lists the codes recognised
by the ASCII Video Terminal. These
include useful functions such as positioning the cursor, selecting reverse
video, clearing the display, etc. There
are also some less useful codes (such
as set invisible text mode) but we
implemented all that we could in the
interests of compatibility.
For a more detailed explanation of
each code use Google to search for
“VT100 User Guide”.
Note that all the escape codes start
with the escape character which is
shown in the table as “ESC” . To give
you an example of how you would
generate these codes, the following program fragment running on a
Micromite will clear the screen:
PRINT CHR$(27)+"[2J";
The following code will then position the cursor at the top left hand
position on the screen:
PRINT CHR$(27)+"[f";
In these examples, CHR$(27) generates the escape code and the “+”
symbol joins it to the following characters. The semicolon at the end of
the statement suppresses the carriage
return and line feed characters which
BASIC normally adds to the end of any
print statement.
In addition, the ASCII Video Terminal adds some extensions to the VT100
standard. These include codes to select
36 or 24 lines per screen for VGA and
the ability to select from two extra large
sized fonts (large and jumbo). It also
siliconchip.com.au
includes codes to draw lines, boxes
and circles on the screen.
In the latter case, the terms “X1” and
“Y1” refer to the starting position on
the screen and “X2” and “Y2” refer
to the ending position. In the case of
a circle, “R” is the radius of the circle.
All these variables are in pixels, with
the top lefthand corner of the screen
being X=0 and Y=0. X is the horizontal
position and Y is the vertical, with
both getting greater as you move away
from the top left corner.
The overall resolution depends on
the display mode and these are listed
in the features box.
The following example demonstrates how to draw a circle with a
radius of 100 pixels at the centre of the
screen (which is at pixel 240 by 144
when in VGA 24-line mode):
PRINT CHR$(27)+" [Z4;240;144;100Z";
Fig.5 also lists the codes generated
by the terminal when a special key is
pressed on the keyboard. These keys
include the arrow keys, function keys,
Home and End. These codes are also
preceded by an escape character and
followed by 1-4 characters which
indicate the actual key pressed. It is
then up to the program running on the
Micromite or PICAXE to interpret and
act on these codes.
VT52 emulation
The VT52 terminal was the little
brother to the VT100 terminal and
recognised a more limited range of
codes. These codes are also less complex than the VT100 codes and some
software programs insist on using
them, so we have also included support for these.
If you want to use VT52 codes, you
can put the ASCII Video Terminal into
VT52 mode by sending the code “ESC
<”. To exit this mode, you simply send
the same code again.
The arrow keys on the keyboard
generate different escape codes when
in VT52 mode. Fig.5 also lists these
codes.
Construction
The complete ASCII Video Terminal is built on a single PCB coded
24107141 and measuring 90mm x
51mm. It uses standard through-hole
components (ie, no surface-mount
parts), so construction is easy. If you
wish to mount it in a box, the dimensions and mounting holes are sized
Parts List
1 double-sided PCB, 90mm x
51mm, code 24107141
1 USB Type B socket, PCB
mount (Jaycar PS-0920,
Altronics P1307, element14
1696537) (CON2)
1 DE-15 (or HD-15) high-density
15-pin female D-connector
(AMP 1-1734530-1,
MULTICOMP SPC15430,
element14 1557991 or
1564252) (CON6)
1 RCA socket, PCB mount
(Jaycar PS0279, Altronics
P0146A) (CON5)
1 6-pin mini DIN female socket,
PCB mount (CON4)
1 28-pin DIL IC Socket
1 8MHz crystal (X1)
1 4-way polarised header, PCB
mount, 0.1 inch pitch (CON1)
1 2-way polarised header, PCB
mount, 0.1 inch pitch (CON3)
1 10-way snappable pin header,
0.1 inch pitch (CON7,JP1,JP2)
1 2 x 3 male pin header (JP3)
5 shorting blocks, 0.1-inch pitch
Semiconductors
1 PIC32MX250F128B-I/SP
microcontroller programmed
with 2410714A.hex (IC1)
1 Microchip MCP1700-3302E TO92 voltage regulator (REG1)
1 red LED, 3mm or 5mm (LED1)
Capacitors
3 10µF 16V tantalum
2 100nF monolithic ceramic
2 27pF ceramic
Resistors (0.25W 5%)
1 100kΩ
1 220Ω*
1 10kΩ
1 150Ω
4 4.7kΩ
1 82Ω
1 470Ω
* Replace with two paralleled 330Ω
resistors if using two VGA colours.
to suit a standard ABS box measuring
120 x 60 x 30mm (Altronics H0216 or
Jaycar HB6032).
Fig.6 shows the parts layout on the
PCB. The first step is to decide what
colour the text on the VGA monitor
should be. This is selected by bridging
one of three sets of pads with solder.
This is best done first, as the jumper
pads can be difficult to access once
parts have been mounted.
July 2014 67
COMPOSITE
VIDEO
PS/2
KEYBOARD
VGA OUTPUT
CON6
X1 8MHz
A B C
3.3V RxD TxD GND
CON1
A
USB PWR
JP2 *
+5V
GND
CON3
+
+
4.7k
100nF
220Ω
LED1
100k
JP3
BAUD
RATE
27pF
10k
27pF
4.7k
JP1
BOOTLOAD
10 µF
10 µF
3
1
BLU GRN RED
14
1
470Ω
IC1 PIC32MX250F128B
150Ω
15
82Ω
100nF
10 µF
2
28
+
1
CON4
CON7
ICSP
4
4.7k
4.7k
CON5
REG1
CON2
USB
* INSTALL JP2 FOR USB POWER ONLY. REMOVE JP2 FOR EXTERNAL POWER VIA CON3.
Fig.6: follow this diagram and the photo at right to build the ASCII
Video Terminal. All the parts are mounted on a single PCB which
makes it easy to incorporate into another project.
As previously stated, we recommend that you select the colour green,
ie, by bridging the pads marked GRN.
It’s then simply a matter of populating the board, starting with the
low-profile components such as the
resistors, the crystal and the capacitors. Leave the larger components such
as the connectors until last.
Note that the crystal should be
mounted 1-2mm proud of the PCB
so that there is no danger of its case
shorting on the solder pads. However,
this is not strictly necessary if you are
using a SILICON CHIP PCB because this
will have solder resist covering the top
solder pads.
Another point to note is that the
footprint for the RCA socket will accommodate either a standard socket
or a switched socket (the switching
mechanism is not used). An IC socket
should be used for the microcontroller
as that will help with fault-finding
and testing.
If you have a blank PIC32 microcontroller, the appropriate firmware
should be downloaded from the
SILICON CHIP website and programmed
into it using a programmer such as the
PICkit 3. The PCB includes a footprint
for the ICSP (In Circuit Serial Programmer) header, so that you can program
the microcontroller in-circuit.
Alternatively, you can purchase a
microcontroller pre-programmed with
the latest firmware from the SILICON
CHIP Online Shop. In that case, the
ICSP header can be left out. The PCB
for this project is also available from
the Online Shop.
The baud rate selection is done by
slipping shorting links over pairs of
pins on 6-pin header JP3 (see Fig.1).
Alternatively, you could mount a
3-way DIP switch in place of the
headers if you want to make it more
convenient to change the speed.
Testing
The completed unit can now be
tested by following this step-by-step
procedure:
(1) Remove microcontroller IC1 from
its socket.
(2) Apply power to the unit from a
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
No.
1
1
4
1
1
1
1
68 Silicon Chip
Value
100kΩ
10kΩ
4.7kΩ
470Ω
220Ω
150Ω
82Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
brown black yellow brown
brown black orange brown
yellow violet red brown
yellow violet brown brown
red red brown brown
brown green brown brown
grey red black brown
5V bench supply or USB supply and
check that +3.3V is present on pins 13,
23 & 28 of the IC socket.
(3) If the supply rail is correct, remove
the power and install the microcontroller (make sure that it is orientated
correctly).
(4) Reapply power and check that
LED1 is illuminated. If so, this means
that the microcontroller is correctly
running its firmware and everything
is OK in that department.
(5) Switch off, connect a keyboard
and video monitor and then short the
TxD & RxD pins on the serial interface
connector (CON1).
(6) Reapply power and test the keyboard, monitor and serial interface by
typing characters on the keyboard. You
should see them echoed on the monitor via the serial interface.
(7) Leave the TxD to RxD short in place
and connect the ASCII Video Terminal
Table 2: Capacitor Codes
Value µF Value IEC Code EIA Code
100nF 0.1µF 100n
104
27pF NA
27p
27
5-Band Code (1%)
brown black black orange brown
brown black black red brown
yellow violet black brown brown
yellow violet black black brown
red red black black brown
brown green black black brown
grey red black gold brown
siliconchip.com.au
to a USB port on your PC using a suitable cable.
(8) Check that anything typed into your
terminal emulator is echoed on both
the monitor and on your computer’s
screen.
Fault finding
Fault finding is simple because
the only significant component is
microcontroller IC1. If the indicator
LED illuminates, it means that the
microcontroller has initialised and is
working correctly.
Conversely, if the LED doesn’t light,
check the power supply. If this is correct but the LED is still out, the fault
must either be in the microcontroller,
its programming or the 10µF capacitor
attached to pin 20.
If the problem is associated with
the keyboard or monitor, check the
relevant parts carefully. For example,
if the keyboard doesn’t work, check
your soldering around the PS/2 socket
and any other parts associated with
the keyboard.
Firmware update
There is always the chance that the
firmware may contain a bug or we may
This view shows the main I/O connectors. From left, they are the highdensity 15 pin connector for VGA video, the RCA connector for the
composite video output and finally the mini-DIN connector for a PS/2
keyboard. Note that only one video connector should be used at a time.
later think of a feature that could be
added. If so, we will make an updated
version of the firmware available which
you can load without a programmer.
Updating the firmware is easy to do
(full instructions will be included with
the update). To start the process, remove power, short jumper JP1 (marked
BOOTLOAD on the PCB) and then reapply power. The firmware will then
switch into update mode and will wait
for the new firmware to be transferred
via the USB interface.
On your Windows PC, you then run
a program (supplied with the update)
to transfer the new firmware to the
microcontroller. The whole process is
quite painless and will take less than
a minute. For firmware updates and
handy hints, check the author’s website at http://geoffg.net/terminal.html
So, there you have it. Your very own
VT100-compatible terminal, ready to
SC
connect to your next creation.
Radio, Television & Hobbies: the COMPLETE archive on DVD
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E
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HISTORY
This remarkable collection of PDFs covers every issue of R & H, as it was known from
the beginning (April 1939 – price sixpence!) right through to the final edition of R, TV & H
in March 1965, before it disappeared forever with the change of name to EA.
For the first time ever, complete and in one handy DVD, every article and every issue
is covered.
If you’re an old timer (or even young timer!) into vintage radio, it doesn’t get much more
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into the amazing breakthroughs made in radio and electronics technology following the
war years.
And speaking of the war years, R & H had some of the best propaganda imaginable!
Even if you’re just an electronics dabbler, there’s something here to interest you.
• Every issue individually archived, by month and year
• Complete with index for each year
• A must-have for everyone interested in electronics
Please note: this archive is in PDF format on DVD for PC.
Your computer will need a DVD-ROM or DVD-recorder (not a CD!)
and Acrobat Reader 6 or above (free download) to enable you to view this
archive. This DVD is NOT playable through a standard A/V-type DVD player.
Exclusive to SILICON CHIP
ONLY
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July 2014 69
Touch-Screen Digital
Audio Recorder Pt.2
By ANDREW LEVIDO
Last month, we introduced our new TouchScreen Digital Audio Recorder and described
how it worked. This month, we will give the
assembly details, provide some performance
graphs and describe how the unit is used.
A
LL THE PARTS for the TouchScreen Digital Audio Recorder
(except the battery) are mounted on
a single PCB coded 01105141 (106 x
74mm). Most of these parts and the
connectors are surface-mount types
which are installed on the top side of
the PCB. Only the microphone, touchscreen display and the SD card socket
are located on the underside.
Don’t be put off by the surfacemount nature of this project. With
a little bit of care and patience, any
reasonably experienced hobbyist can
put this together in a few hours. As
with any surface mount work, you will
need a good work light, fine tweezers,
a flux pen and a roll of solder wick. If
you have some form of magnification
(or a magnifying lamp), then so much
the better.
70 Silicon Chip
Fig.6 shows the parts layout on the
PCB. Begin with IC2 (LM3658). This
is a 10-pin QFN (quad flat no-lead)
package with 0.5mm pin spacing and
a central thermal pad. Once you have
successfully soldered this device in
(as described below), you can consider
yourself an SMD guru!
The technique is as follows: start by
applying a small amount of solder to
each of the 10 outer pads on the PCB.
You want just enough solder to later
re-flow under the pins but not so much
that the pads are bridged or the chip
does not sit flat against the board. Use
solder wick to take off any excess if
you have to.
Next, apply some liquid flux to the
pads, then carefully position the chip
so that it is centred horizontally and
vertically with respect to the pads
(take care to ensure that it is orientated
correctly). Check that the pins, which
are just visible on the sides of the chip,
line up with the elongated pads. This
is best done with the aid of a magnifying lens (or a microscope if you have
access to one).
Once it’s in place, hold the chip
down using a pair of tweezers and
apply your soldering iron to the elongated pads. Heat them just long enough
for the solder you applied earlier to
melt and re-flow under the pins. Add
a small amount of solder during this
procedure if necessary.
Once you have done this for all pins,
flip the board over and melt a blob of
solder into the four holes under the
thermal pad. You will have to apply
quite a bit of heat here, since the large
rectangle of copper on the bottom side
siliconchip.com.au
Microphone bias
You must now decide if you want the
microphone bias to be available to the
external microphone. If you do, install
a link in the position marked “BOTH”
(near CON2); otherwise install a link
in the position marked “INTL”. You
can either use a 0Ω (0805) resistor (as
we have) or just bridge the pads with
a blob of solder.
Next, install the USB connector
(CON7). First, place it on the board
(make sure that the locating pins go
into their holes) and solder the four
mounting tabs. You will have to apply
a fair bit of heat to get the solder to
take to these. It’s then just a matter of
soldering the five pins. These protrude
siliconchip.com.au
1
CON5
INT MIC
CON1
ICSP
AUDIO RECORDER
100k
4.7M
2.2 µF
IC3
PIC32MX695–
F512H
2.2 µF
2.2 µF 5.1k 5.1k
Q4
01105141 4.7M NTR4170N
100nF
2.2 µF
1
is designed to be a heatsink. This step
will not only solder the thermal pad
but will also continue the re-flow
process for the pads.
Alternatively, if you are lucky
enough to have a hot-air rework tool,
simply apply a little solder paste to the
pads, position the chip and re-flow the
solder with the hot air. Surface tension
will help pull the chip into position if
your placement was not perfect. This
is a lot faster and less prone to errors
than using a soldering iron, so if you do
a lot of SMT work it is an investment
worth considering.
Note, however, that once the chip is
in place, you still have to flip the PCB
over and melt solder into the holes
under the thermal pad.
Microcontroller IC3 is the next on
the list. Apply a generous amount
of flux, then carefully position it on
the pads (make sure it’s correctly orientated) and tack solder a couple of
pins on opposite corners. Now check
that it’s perfectly aligned and adjust if
necessary before soldering the remaining pins.
Don’t worry if you end up with a few
solder bridges – you can clean these
up later with solder wick.
The CODEC (IC1) can now be installed. With its 0.65mm pin spacing,
it will seem positively huge compared
to the last two chips. Use the same
technique as for the microcontroller.
Regulator REG1 is the easiest of the
lot. Once it’s in, install the four SOT-23
Mosfets and then the passive SMDs (ie,
the resistors and capacitors). These are
0805 size and so are fairly straightforward to solder by hand. Take care here
because the capacitors are not marked
and it’s easy to mix them up.
X1
12MHz
Q1
NTR4170N
22pF
2.2 µF
5.1k
MIC IN
CON7 USB
100nF BOTH INTL 2.2 µF
MIC BIAS
10nF
REG1
Q2
NTR4170N 10k
1M
IC1
5.1k
1M
TLV320AIC23
100k
IC2
2.2 µF
100nF
Q3
NTR4170N
10Ω 2.2 µF 100k
100nF 2.2 µF100k
1M
LM3658
100k 470Ω100k
1
100k 100k 100k 100k
100nF
1M
X2
22pF
CON3
LINE OUT
LED1
ACTIVITY
2.2 µF
22pF
CON2
22pF 2.2 µF 22pF 2.2 µF
MCP1725
2.2 µF
LINE IN
22pF 5.1k 5.1k
100 µF
100 µF
A
CON4
1M
TEST
PHONES OUT
100 µF
32kHz
(TOP OF PCB)
BATTERY CLIP LEADS
INT MIC
+
CON6
LCD CONNECTION CABLE FOLDED UNDER
TO ATTACH TO PCB HERE
STRIPS OF DOUBLE-SIDED
ADHESIVE TAPE ATTACHING
LCD DISPLAY TO
UNDERSIDE OF PCB
QVGA 64K COLOUR TFT LCD
DISPLAY WITH LED BACKLIGHTING
SD CARD
SOCKET
(UNDERSIDE OF PCB)
Fig.6: install the parts on the PCB as shown on these layout diagrams. The
three SMD ICs and regulator REG1 go in first (see text), followed by the
passive SMDs (resistors & capacitors) and then the larger through-hole
parts. The LCD, SD card socket and internal microphone are mounted on
the underside of the PCB, as shown in the bottom layout.
just enough from back of the connector
to get at with a soldering iron.
Follow with the four 3.5mm audio jacks (CON1-CON4), then fit the
through-hole electrolytic capacitors
and the two crystals (X1 & X2). We
used one of the capacitor lead offcuts
to make a small strap to hold the 32kHz
(X2) crystal in place.
It’s a good idea to also solder two
more lead offcuts to the pads on the
back of the electret microphone insert.
This makes it easy to install later on.
The final step for this side of the
board is to mount the ICSP header
(CON5) if you intend to program the
micro yourself. There’s no need to
mount the test header – it was used
during development as a handy way
to get access to the data traffic between
the micro and the SD card.
SD card socket & LCD
As stated earlier, the SD card socket
and the touch-screen LCD are mounted
on the underside of the PCB (see Fig.6).
Start with the SD socket (CON6), as
it’s difficult to get to some of its pins
once the LCD is installed. This socket
shares its locating holes with two of
July 2014 71
These views show the assembled PCB. The touch-screen LCD is installed by first soldering its ribbon cable to its PCB
pads, then folding the LCD over this cable and securing it using strips of double-sided adhesive tape (see Fig.6).
the audio jacks. There are four pads
to solder around the outside and 11
on the inside.
Mounting the LCD involves soldering its flexible ribbon cable to corresponding pads on the underside of the
PCB. The two 1mm holes at either edge
of the ribbon are used to line everything
up. Take a minute or two to familiarise
yourself with the correct orientation of
the display before soldering any pads;
it should be positioned such that it can
fold back over the ribbon cable to face
up as shown in Fig.6.
To install it, first peel the cover paper off the strip of double-sided sticky
tape on the ribbon (not the strips on the
back of the display). That done, line up
the two 1mm holes in the ribbon with
their corresponding holes in the PCB
(we used a couple of 1mm drill bits
to make this easy), then press down
on the ribbon to fix it onto the PCB
with the tape
(TOP OF CASE)
B
A
58
7.8
16
31
3.7
30.5
B
22
35
12.5
24
C
C
L
11.5
58 x 44mm CUTOUT FOR
LCD DISPLAY/TOUCH PANEL
8.5
8.5
3.0
B
22
A
B
5.3
(FRONT
PANEL)
HOLES A: 3.0mm DIA.
HOLES B: 4.5mm DIA.
HOLE C: 3.75mm x 8.0/6.5mm
ALL DIMENSIONS IN MILLIMETRES
Fig.7: follow this diagram to make the display cutout in the case lid and to drill and cut the holes in the end panel. The
display cutout can be made by drilling a series of holes around the inside perimeter, knocking out the centre piece and
filing the job to a smooth finish. Hole ‘A’ at top left is for the microphone.
72 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List
The ribbon cable can now be soldered to the pads. Work quickly here,
as the ribbon will melt if you apply too
much heat. We found it best to press
the ribbon down onto the PCB with a
probe, then solder three or four pads
at a time, moving progressively along
the ribbon.
Once the soldering is complete, fold
the display over the ribbon and secure
it to the PCB using the two strips of
double-sided adhesive tape on the
back of the panel. During this process,
make sure that the LCD panel’s four
plastic posts (one at each corner) drop
into their locating holes in the PCB.
Now fit the electret microphone
insert (ie, with the wire leads soldered
to it) to the PCB, observing the polarity. Don’t solder it yet though; instead,
position the PCB in the top half of the
case and temporarily fix it there with
a couple of mounting screws. That
done, push the microphone down
until its face is flush with the inside
of the case, then solder its leads and
trim off any excess.
The PCB assembly can now be
completed by soldering the battery
clip leads to the battery terminals
(marked B+ & B-). Be sure to loop these
leads through the strain relief holes as
shown in Fig.6.
Preparing the case
Now turn your attention to the case.
First, carefully mark out the LCD cutout and the microphone hole on the
siliconchip.com.au
1 double-sided PCB, code
01105141, 106 x 74mm
1 black hand-held ABS case with
battery compartment, 89 x 147
x 25mm (Altronics H8986)
1 12MHz HC-49/US SMD
crystal (X1) (Altronics V2267,
element14 1842280, Digi-Key
535-10218-1-ND)
1 32.768kHz watch crystal (X2)
1 3mm orange or red LED (LED1)
1 QVGA RGB LCD touch-screen
with LED back-light and
controller (Altronics Z7080)
4 3.5mm switched SMD stereo
jack sockets (CON1-CON4)
(Digi-Key CP-3524SJCT-ND)
1 5-pin header (CON5) (optional,
for in-circuit programming)
1 push-push SD card socket
(CON6) (Altronics P5720 or
equivalent)
1 SMD mini-B type USB connector
(CON7) (Altronics P1308,
element14 1507528, Digi-Key
151-1206-1-ND)
1 electret microphone insert
(MIC1) (Jaycar AM4008)
4 No.4 x 6mm self-tapping screws
1 short length light duty red hookup wire
1 short length light duty black
hook-up wire
1 3.6V Lithium-ion AA cell
1 AA cell sized piece of nonconductive foam
1 SD/SDHC/SDXC card
1 USB type A to mini type B cable
1 short length double-sided tape
lid as shown in Fig.7. That done, cut
out the rectangular hole for the LCD
and clean up the edges using a fine file.
We chamfered the edges of the cut-out
to improve its appearance, as shown
in the photos of the unit.
Next, drill the 3mm-diameter hole
for the microphone, then mark out and
drill the end panel according as shown
in Fig.7. Alternatively, you can simply
attach the end-panel diagram to the
panel and use it as a drilling template.
The cut-outs for the USB socket and
the SD card socket can be made by
drilling a series of very small holes,
joining them up and then filing the
job to shape. Once completed, test fit
the panel to the PCB – you may need
to fettle the socket openings to get
everything to line up nicely.
Be careful when drilling and cutting
Semiconductors
1 TLV320AIC23 96kHz audio
CODEC IC (IC1) (element14
1575048, Digi-Key 296-26817-1ND)
1 LM3658SD Li-ion battery charger
IC (IC2) (element14 1312584 or
Digi-Key LM3658SD/NOPBCT-ND)
1 PIC32MX695F512H SMD
microcontroller programmed with
0110514A.HEX (IC3)
1 MCP1725-3002E/SN LDO 3.0V
regulator (REG1) (element14
1851958 or Digi-Key MCP17253002E/SN-ND)
4 NTR4170N SMD N-channel
SOT-23 Mosfets (Q1-Q4)
(element14 1887064 or Digi-Key
NTR4170NT1GOSCT-ND)
Capacitors (all SMD 2012 size [0805
imperial] unless specified)
3 100µF 6.3V electrolytic
13 2.2µF 16V X7R ceramic
5 100nF 50V X7R ceramic
1 10nF 50V X7R ceramic
6 22pF 50V C0G/NP0 ceramic
Resistors (all SMD 2012 size [0805
imperial])
2 4.7MΩ
6 5.1kΩ
5 1MΩ
1 470Ω
10 100kΩ
1 10Ω
1 10kΩ
1 0Ω
Where to buy a kit: a kit of parts will
be available for $139.95 from Altronics
(Cat. K 5530). It will have SMDs IC1IC3 pre-soldered to the PCB.
out this end panel. There are a lot of
connectors in a very small space, so
there is almost “more hole” than panel.
Once everything is correct, fit the
front panel to the PCB and then insert
the assembly into the top section of
the case. Secure the board with four
short self-tapping screws, then fit two
of the supplied battery terminals into
the bottom half of the case. Solder the
battery wires to these terminals, making sure that the positive lead goes to
the positive terminal and the negative
lead goes to the (spring-loaded) negative terminbal.
We used a piece of foam to fill the
open space in the left-over battery
position, so the cell cannot move.
Testing & Troubleshooting
Now for the smoke test! The stepJuly 2014 73
READY
PATH &
FILENAME
SD: DIR1 / DIR2
FILENAME.WAV
FILE
NAVIGATION
+
FILE
+
–6.0dB
00 : 15 : 36
FILENAME.WAV
+
+
FILE
SKIP TO
NEXT/
PREVIOUS
FILE
–
–
PLAYING
PHONES
VOLUME
(PRESS OR
SWIPE
UP OR
DOWN)
& MUTE
RECORD/PLAY
COUNTER &
FILENAME
(SWIPE LEFT/
RIGHT TO
SKIP BACK/
FORWARD)
–6.0dB
+
+
–3.0dB
48kbps
BACKLT
–
–
–
PLAY ONE/
ALL IN
DIRECTORY
CONFIG
& USB
MODE
ABOUT
RECORD &
PLAYBACK
CONTROLS
14:37:16
HIGH
TIME,
DATE &
BATTERY
STATUS
2014–05–16
SET
RECORD
SAMPLE
RATE
+
INPUT
SOURCE
& GAIN
–
–
CONFIGURE
SET
TIME &
DATE
14:37:16
HIGH
A
SET
BACKLIGHT
LEVEL
STATUS
VIEW
ABOUT
SCREEN
OK
14:37:16
2014–05–16
HIGH
2014–05–16
RETURN
TO MAIN
SCREEN
C
B
Fig.8: the icons (or buttons) displayed on the touch-screen LCD are context sensitive and may be greyed out if not
relevant to the current function. There are three main status screens: READY, PLAYING and CONFIGURE.
by-step procedure is as follows:
(1) Connect a bench power supply set
to deliver 4V to the battery terminals
(ie, without the battery installed). Be
sure to get the polarity correct and if
your supply has current limiting, set
this to around 500mA.
(2) Apply power and check that the
LCD lights up and displays the various menus and icons. Of course, this
assumes that you purchased a preprogrammed micro. If the micro didn’t
come pre-programmed, now is the
time to program it.
(3) Once you have a working micro,
insert an SD card and check that you
1
can move through the directories, play
audio files and make a recording using
the internal microphone.
(4) If that checks out, remove the power
supply, insert a battery and check that
it begins to charge when the unit is
connected to a USB port on a PC.
(5) Press the USB button and verify
that the audio recorder appears as an
external drive on the PC.
If this all checks out, you are ready
to start using the Touch-Screen Digital Audio Recorder. If you do have
problems, work logically to isolate
the cause. If the display is black, for
example, check the 3V rail and 12MHz
Touchscreen Recorder THD vs Frequency 05/20/14 11:52:38
+10
05/20/14 11:35:13
+6
Headphone Out (8Ω -10dB)
0.2
+4
Headphone Out (16Ω -10dB)
0.1
+2
Headphone Out (32Ω 0dB)
Amplitude Variation (dBr)
Total Harmonic Distortion + Noise (%)
Touchscreen Recorder Frequency Response
+8
0.5
0.05
0.02
Headphone Out (32Ω -10dB)
Line Out
0.01
Headphone Out (100kΩ 0dB)
0.005
Headphone Out (100kΩ 0dB)
-0
Line Out
Headphone Out (32Ω 0dB)
-2
-4
Headphone Out (8Ω 0dB)
-6
Headphone Out (16Ω 0dB)
-8
-10
-12
-14
-16
Signal-to-noise ratio, both outputs <at> 0dB, backlight full
on/off: 92dB unweighted, 96dB A-weighted
0.002
0.001
clock to make sure these are OK, since
the micro can’t run without them.
If the 32kHz oscillator is working,
then you can be sure the micro itself is
OK, so look for problems with Mosfets
Q1 & Q2 and for soldering issues on the
LCD ribbon cable and the corresponding pins on the micro.
If the display works but you can’t
read an SD card, check the components
and soldering in that part of the circuit.
Make sure that the SD card is formatted
correctly and try an alternative card
if there are still problems. Similarly,
if there is a problem with the audio,
check the circuitry around IC1.
20
50
100
200
500
1k
2k
5k
10k
-18
20k
Frequency (Hz)
Fig.9: distortion vs frequency plots for the recorder. Note
that since the headphone output performance (at 0dB) into
a high impedance is better than the line output, there’s
little reason to use the line output. We had to use a 20kHz
low-pass filter for these measurements so distortion above
10kHz is understated; the dotted lines indicate our guess
as to the real performance.
74 Silicon Chip
-20
20
50
100
200
500
1k
2k
5k
10k
20k
Frequency (Hz)
Fig.10: the frequency response is flat for either output up
to 18kHz into a high-impedance load. However, the lowfrequency roll-off is significant when driving headphones
(typical 16Ω headphones/ear-buds have a -3dB point of
100Hz). Note that bass performance could be improved by
increasing the value of the two 100μF electrolytic coupling
capacitors to 470μF.
siliconchip.com.au
If the activity LED pulses steadily
while playing and recording, you can
be reasonably sure that the problem
lies with the CODEC or its surrounding
circuitry. Any problems are most likely
to be caused by incorrectly positioned
parts, solder bridges or missed/faulty
solder joints.
Using the recorder
The Touch-Screen Digital Audio
Recorder is fairly intuitive to use.
Most of the time, the user interacts
with a single screen like that shown
in Fig.8A. The “buttons” are context
sensitive and may be greyed out if
they are not relevant for some reason.
For example, as shown in Fig.8A, the
Stop button will be greyed if there is
nothing playing or recording.
A status bar is shown at the top of
the screen and immediately below that
are two lines of text (eg, to indicate
the directory path and filename). In
addition, the current time and date
are displayed at the bottom of the
screen, along with the battery charge/
discharge status.
The READY status in Fig.8A indicates that an SD card has been successfully mounted. The file navigation
keys can then be used move through
the directories and files on the card.
The file “rocker” moves through the
entries in the current directory.
The current entry (eg, a filename)
is displayed on the lower of the two
text lines and the path is shown on
the upper line. If the current entry is
a directory, the down arrow allows a
sub-directory to be selected. Similarly,
the up arrow button allow you to move
up to the parent directory, if you are
currently below the root directory.
Immediately below the file navigation area are buttons to jump to the
configuration screen and to put the
recorder into USB mode. MSD mode
allow the files on the recorder to be
read on a PC via the USB port. To the
right of this are the headphone volume
control and the output mute button.
The bottom row of buttons control
the record and playback functions.
Pressing the record button creates a
new file and begins a recording, while
pressing the Play button opens and
plays the selected file. Once playing,
the screen changes slightly to that
shown in Fig.8B (the record screen
is similar).
At the same time, the status changes
to PLAYING and a counter replaces
siliconchip.com.au
The PCB is secured to integral
mounting posts inside the case
using four self-tapping screws.
the path name. In addition, the file
navigation and USB mode buttons are
disabled and the play/record controls
change as shown.
The action of the Pause button is
fairly obvious – it toggles between
pause and resume on alternate presses.
The Skip button stops playing the
current file and skips to the next one
in the directory. When recording, the
Skip button closes the current file and
immediately opens another and carries
on recording into that.
Fig.8C shows the configuration
screen. It’s entered by pressing the
Configuration button on the main
screen. At the top left is the line input
gain rocker, while immediately below
that is the input source selector. Pressing this repeatedly rolls through the
three options: line input, mic input
and mic input with 20dB extra gain.
At top centre is the record sample
rate selector and to its right, the backlight level control. Any change to the
sample rate applies from the next
recording. The About button displays
the software version information (as
you might expect) while the OK button returns control to the main screen.
Either side of the OK button are buttons that allow setting of the time and
date. If an error occurs at any time, a
message is displayed at the top of the
screen along with an Acknowledge
button to dismiss it. The error message gives the reason for the error and
a code indicating which part of the
software was responsible.
If a catastrophic error occurs, the
activity LED will flash an error code.
These error codes correspond to the
processor exception codes except for
a double flash that indicates the event
queue has overflowed. These errors
should never happen under normal
circumstances and a full reset is the
only way to recover.
You can explore the rest of the user
interface yourself and even attempt
some software modifications of your
SC
own if you are so inclined.
July 2014 75
Issue:
July 2014
Build It Yourself Electronics Centre
Winter Savers
Bring 3D Prototyping
to your desktop!
New online shopping experience at
www.altronics.com.au
Manufactured in Europe by renowned kit maker
Velleman, this superbly designed 3D printer
allows you to create your own 3 dimension
prototypes and designs at home. It features a
200 x 200 x 200mm build area with heated
print bed and uses PLA or ABS 3mm filament.
The tubular frame construction is simple to put
together and leaves plenty of scope for
modification if you so desire! • Excellent
support from Velleman service forum • Fully
upgradeable as new software & firmware is
released • Includes power supply • Includes
ALL parts, no need to buy anything else. Build
it and print! Check the website for
comprehensive specs.
In Stock Now!
Tough 40W CREE® LED Lamps
K 8200
Optional Add Ons:
K 8230 Control module with LCD & SD card slot: $149
K 8234 LED lamp for a clear view of printed objects: $34.95
Filament Reels
Black
Grey
White
PLA 1kg/5m
K 8210 K 8213 K 8215
ABS 1kg/5m
K 8220
-
K 8223
1299
$
ONLY..
$44.95
$42.95
Wireless sound
anywhere your want it!
4.2
159
$
NEW!
Turn your ‘dumb telly’ into a smart telly!
Smart TVs are all the rage - allowing you to stream movies,
music and photos to your big screen, plus access an array of
smart phone style games & apps. Simply plugs into a spare
HDMI input. Streams 1080p HD video over wireless
connection. 1GB of RAM, 4GB memory & micro SD slot.
BONUS BUY!
Add an A 1004 Wireless Keyboard &
Trackpad Remote for just $50 with
any D 2811. Valued at $115 RRP
2 Channel DJ Mixer
Great for beginners and
mobile DJs requiring a robust
lightweight mixer. Two pairs
of switchable phono and line
inputs, plus stereo record
and amp outputs. Bass,
treble and gain adjustments.
Cue crossfader makes it easy
to cue upcoming tracks.
Includes power supply.
A 2544
IP68 weatherproof vehicle lamps
housed in a diecast powdercoated case.
2800 lumen output. 304 grade
stainless hardware with durable UV
stabilised flyleads. 9-40V DC, 3A
current draw.
Size: 125Wx155Hx88D mm.
$
Sold individually.
X 2902 Floodlight X 2904 Spotlight
129
NEW!
Now Available!
Latest Quad Core
Arm Cortex A9 CPU
D 2811
New 4WD Lighting Range
This wireless speaker uses the
latest Bluetooth 4.0 standard
with quick NFC device pairing
with your smartphone or tablet.
40mm compact speaker and
tuned enclosure • Hands-free
phone functionality.
54.95
$
NEW!
D 2036
79.95
$
X 5100
NEW!
NEW Bluetooth® Speaker & Torch
Listen to music on the go! Wireless music streaming
combined with a torch/bike light with flash mode. Built in
mic allows hands free phone calls. Great for fishing too!
D 2325
109
SAVE $20
399
$
This superbly constructed 100W bar features ten
NEW!
CREE® LEDs. Great for mounting on utility bars,
roof racks etc on 4WDs and boats. 7500 lumens output. 304 rated
stainless steel bolts and adjustable aluminium mounting brackets. 948V dc operation, 6.25A current draw (12V). Size: 443W x 64H x
92Dmm. Sold individually.
Marine 25W LED Flood Lamp
1W torch with weatherproof case!
69.95
$
$
X 2906
100W CREE® LED Light Bar
NEW!
NEW Qi ‘Cable Free’ Charging Pad
A slimline 3 coil charging pad for phones equipped with
QI charging (or those fitted with a QI case). Just put your
phone on the pad and it charges instantly!
Our Build It Yourself Electronics Centres...
ilicon
Chip
»76 S
Springvale
VIC: 891
Princes Hwy » Auburn NSW: 15 Short St » Perth WA: 174 Roe St
» Balcatta WA: 7/58 Erindale Rd » Cannington WA: 6/1326 Albany Hwy
Housed in a stylish diecast white
powdercoated case this 1800 lumen
flood bean CREE® LED is the perfect
addition to your boat. UV stabilised
flyleads with 304 rated stainless steel
hardware. 9-32V DC operation.
2A current draw. Size: 106Ø x
$
91D mm. Sold individually.
139
NEW!
X 2900
Compact 10W LED Work Lamp
A great addition to the 4WD for beach
fishing or exterior lighting for caravans,
heavy machinery and trucks. 57Ø x
65Dmm.Weatherproof (IP67 rated) diecast
case. Features a 720 lumen CREE® LED
element. Durable UV stabilised
flylead. . 9-60V dc operation,
.95
$
750mA current draw.
NEW!
X 2908
Sold individually.
44
Phone Order Now On...
1300 797 007
siliconchip.com.au
or shop online 24/7 at www.altronics.com.au
Top Quality Power Accessories
New DC Power
Wallplates
Virtually any combination you may
require in car accessory socket,
Merit socket and 2.1A 5V USB
charging. Each plate is supplied
with two facia covers to suit your
existing wallplates. Easy connection via 6.3mm spade lugs on rear.
Benchtop
space
savers!
M 8303 0-30V 3A
159
$
High Power Compact
Pure Sine Wave Inverter
Ideal For 4WDs & Caravans!
Pure Sine Wave
Pure sine wave 12V inverter with high
800W surge rating suitable for powering
difficult loads, including switchmode
power supplies. Fitted with USB
charging output. 400W rated. Size:
200L x 108W x 60Hmm.
239
$
M 8012A
NEW MODEL!
NEW!
M 8305 0-30V 5A
189
$
L 1042
Merit & USB
Charging Plate.
42.50
NEW!
$
NEW!
Compact & Efficient Lab Power Supplies
Price breakthrough! These quality units are great for
servicing, repair and design of electronics. Low noise
switchmode design. Fine/coarse voltage and current
controls. Size: 85Wx160Hx205Dmm.
Complete protection & power
backup UPS systems.
250
$
SAVE $25
Protection For...
Computers
Home Theatre
Now with USB
output!
D 0882A 1200VA
Provides power backup when mains fails,
plus added protection for surges and
spikes on power, phone & data lines.
Backup time for 4 ch. CCTV system:
17mins. 2 year warranty.
CCTV Systems
Security & Alarms
D 0883 1600VA
Includes
monitoring
& shutdown
software
325
$
SAVE $50
L 1043
Car Acc. & USB
Charging Plate.
42.50
$
Suits temporary or
permanent install
NEW!
N 0706
78
$
39
$
SAVE 12%
SAVE 14%
M 8070A
240V Power From A Cup Holder!
L 1037
Dual Car
Accessory Plate
24
.95
$
NEW!
Provides 240V power for charging laptops, small
tools, lamps, chargers and more! 150W rated
(450W surge). Ideal for camping. 12V input.
60mmØ. Modified sine wave.
15W Portable Solar Panel Charger - FREE power anywhere you travel!
Provides up to 1A charge current for keeping car, caravan or 4WD batteries topped up. Ideal for
portable situations where temporary charging might be needed, such as campsites. Includes croc
clips and car accessory plug. Size: 977Lx342Wx22Dmm.
N 2104
L 1044
Dual Merit
Socket Plate
29
SAVE 20%
NEW!
24
.50
$
NEW!
Surge
protected
outlets!
29
.50
$
NEW!
M 8894
M 8893
3.5A Dual USB Mains Chargers
L 1041
Merit Socket &
Car Acc. Plate.
24.95
$
89
$
44
$
.95
$
SAVE 25%
M 8627A
Laptop & USB Car Charger
100A Electronic Battery Isolator
This compact supply simply plugs into a car
accessory socket & provides regulated power
to a laptop. Selectable voltages 15, 16, 18,
19, 20, 22 and 24VDC, up to 120W. Supplied
with 8 adaptors to suit most laptops.
Allows you to connect a load (such as a
camping fridge) to one battery whilst ensuring
the second battery remains charged for starting
the engine. Full electronic isolation for use in
modern cars.
With pass through 240V socket so you don’t lose an
outlet! Great for keeping your phone & tablet
charged. Mains surge circuitry protects your
appliances from damaging power fluctuations.
NEW!
N 2080
27
$
M 8885
L 1036
Car Acc. Socket
& TV Aerial Plate
22
.50
$
NEW!
NEW!
HPM Dual 4.2A USB Charger
®
Dual 2.1A USB outputs for charging two tablets at
once. Fitted with 1m mains lead for easy
connection on your desk or table.
Follow <at>AltronicsAU
siliconchip.com.au
.95
www.facebook.com/Altronics
Express Order
Hotlines:
Great for portable
solar systems
62
$
SAVE 17%
Keep an eye on your solar power
Great for measuring and monitoring PV solar
system output. Connects inline between any
DC power source and connected load. Logs
Amp hours, Watt hours, current, min & max
voltages. 5-60V 20A. Optional USB
datalogger module $84.95 (N 2081).
Phone: 1300 797 007
Fax: 1300 789 777
www.altronics.com.au
28
$
SAVE 15%
A 0288A
Top Value Home Battery Charger
Charges four AAA/AA/C/D or two 9V cells!
A great way to keep batteries charged up for
any appliance. Four charging bays with LEDs.
Suits NiCAD or NiMH cells. 240V mains.
Batteries not included.
July 2014 77
BUILD IT YOURSELF ELECTRONICS CENTRE
Latest Test Equipment
Pay less for top quality tools & test gear!
Amazing True RMS Meter
for under $30!
An affordable true RMS digital
multimeter for the enthusiast or
technician. The benefit of true
RMS is increased accuracy when
measuring ac voltages. Packed
with other features too, including
a 2MHz frequency counter,
capacitance up to 2000μF,
.95
$
data hold, auto power off
and an easy read 2000
NEW!
count backlit LCD.
29
120
$
X 0111
Q 1070
Blast dirt, grease and
grime away instantly.
Autoranging DMM
with non-contact
detection.
SAVE $29
SAVE $20
T 2416
No need for harsh solvents. 170 Watts of ultrasonic
cleaning power - over twice the power of our X 0109
model. In-built heater helps to lift more dirt than ever
before. Great for high use applications - labs, optical outlets, jewellers etc. 2500ml tank. 240V operation.
34
Micron® 45W Digital Soldering Station
Tough aluminium case
No need to switch ranges all the
time! Includes a non-contact
voltage detector for identification
of live wires. An affordable,
versatile meter designed
for the electronics
.95
$
enthusiast or handyman.
NEW!
20A current range. Data
hold. Backlit LCD.
Q 1134
High Power Blow Torches
42
$
X 0215
Autoranging True
RMS DMM
SAVE 15%
5W LED Aluminium Adjustable Torch
A high accuracy digital
multimeter designed for
those requiring true RMS ac
waveform measurement.
Includes 10MHz frequency
counter, capacitance and
temperature measurement
(probe included). Relative
function, backlit LCD, USB
datalogging also in-built (
lead included). Cat III
600V.
79
$
Thousands sold!
A top quality, affordable
iron for the enthusiast.
Super tough aluminium case! 300 Lumens output.
Flashing mode and adjustable beam width. Requires 3xD
batteries (S 4926 2pk $7.15). 335mm long.
An excellent multi purpose soldering iron for service technicians, schools,
engineers, R&D, production work etc. Japanese long life ceramic element.
150°-480°C. Suits lead free soldering. 0.8mm tip. 2 year warranty.
Super hot 1350°C flame!
Handheld or self standing design for
tasks such as heatshrinking,
model making, silver soldering!
Gas and air flow adjustments.
Easily refilled with butane gas.
T 2494 features a robust all
aluminium design.
T 2492 Small
T 2494 Large
32
$
‘Contact Free’
Digital Thermometer
74.95
$
NEW!
Q 1074A
New higher
resolution
LCR
functions
Q 2112
229
SAVE 20%
63
$
SAVE 20%
Add a can of gas for $7.50
With twin laser guided beam
for pin point accuracy!
Lightweight, “point and shoot”
temperature measurement.
Provides accurate readings
between -35 and 800°C from a
distance. Ideal for measuring
in dangerous places, or when
equipment is operating. 12:1
Q 1284
resolution. 300ms
$
response. 1% accuracy.
Includes carry case.
SAVE $40
16
$
SAVE 19%
T 2189A
12 In 1 Ratchet Driver Kit
Driver bits are stored inside the handle! Ideal for communications gear,
phones, laptops. Includes: • Extension bar • #000, #00, #0 phillips
• 1.5, 2 & 2.5mm flat blade • T4, T6, T7, T8, T10, T15 torx.
95
$
NEW!
Peak® LCR & Impedance Analyser
T 2749
Identifies inductors, capacitors and resistors. Can also display the components parameters as a complex impedance,
complex admittance or magnitude and phase of impedance. 2 year warranty. Designed & made in the UK.
49.95
$
Tungsten Steel Side Cutters
NEW!
Yes, they are pricey! But they are likely to be the last pair
of side cutters you’ll ever purchase. Made from incredibly
tough heat treated tungsten steel. 130mm long.
Must have
for electronic
servicing.
Q 2115
259
$
NEW!
Peak USB Semiconductor Analyser
®
Much like our popular Q 2100 Peak analyser with added
features including PC/USB interface which allows detailed
curve tracing analysis of components, plus measure a
range of part values like gain and leakage. 2 year warranty. Designed & made in the UK.
Just like the
brand names
for far less!
Ideal for cutting solid core wires
One-Touch Battery Testing
Provides a quick and easy
verification of battery condition for
12V sealed lead acid (SLA), wet
cells, gel cell & AGM batteries.
Applies a 20A test load and
determines charge level. Q 1055
carry case to suit $6.50.
Q 3215
Suits 5Ah to
80Ah batteries
33
$
SAVE 17%
Super-Tough
Equipment Carry
Cases!
IP67 rated for the ultimate dust
and water protection for your
precious equipment. Ideal for
storing test equipment, cameras,
computers and sensors. Foam
inner can be customised to suit
your equipment. Foam lined lid
for secure fit. Latches can be
padlocked. T 5052-65 include
shoulder strap.
Part
Normally
365x266x165mm
Size
T 5050
$98.50
Now...
$78
465x365x185mm
T 5052
$179
$140
515x435x199mm
T 5054
$269
$199
650x430x250mm
T 5065
$485
$379
20%
OFF
*Dimensions are external
Our Build It Yourself Electronics Centres...
78 Silicon Chip
BUILD IT YOURSELF ELECTRONICS CENTRE
» Balcatta WA: 7/58 Erindale Rd » Cannington WA: 6/1326 Albany Hwy siliconchip.com.au
» Perth WA: 174 Roe St » Auburn NSW: 15 Short St » Springvale VIC: 891 Princes Hwy
Handy DIY Kit Designs
249
$
SAVE $100
K 3205
S 9406A
Resellers
59
.50
$
NEW!
Peace of mind
for the family!
Shortform Case Kit For Hybrid Power Supply
Pre-cut case, meters and power switch for the 0-40V, 5A hybrid
power supply published in the April/May issues of Silicon Chip.
Colour TFT Video Door Intercom
• A safe & easy way to monitor the front door • Ultra-sharp 7” colour
screen • Records photos of visitors when you’re not home • USB/SD
photo, video & MP3 playback • Includes power supply, hookup cable, base
station & camera unit • Remote door latching* • Expandable to 4 base
stations (S 9407) & 2 cameras (S 9409). *When used with optional door strike
Great for D-I-Y & trades.
K 6043
S 5385 $44.95.
39
$
SAVE 20%
99
$
NEW!
X 2320
10W
Take the ‘kick’ out of your power tools!
(SC July ‘12) This handy soft starter kit prevents your electric
saw, router or other large mains-powered hand tool from kicking
when you squeeze the trigger. Ensures a clean accurate cut
every time. Max load 10A.
42
$
SAVE 20%
K 4030
139
$
NEW!
High Energy Ignition Kit
X 2321 20W
Brilliant Battery Powered Portable Work Lights
LED floodlamps coupled with a rechargeable battery offering up to 6 hours
use away from mains power. Includes work stand, car charger & plugpack.
Great for work sites & service vans.
(SC November ‘12) Use it to replace a failed ignition module in
an older car or upgrade a mechanical ignition system when
restoring a vehicle. It will work with virtually any ignition system
that uses a single coil.
130
$
SAVE $68
K 1143
29
.50
$
X 2350
54.95
$
NEW!
X 2290 36°
X 2292 60°
Great party
light!
Add atmosphere to your
back yard!
This 10 Watt RGB floodlight can
produce a huge array of colours
and lighting effects. Easy IR remote
control adjustments. Fully
weatherproof IP65 rated.
Fitted with 240V mains plug.
115W x 87H x 81Dmm.
SAVE 10%
or 6up $25ea
8 Watt MR-16 Halogen
Replacement LED Globes
Direct replacement for MR-16
halogen globes. The overall light
output and colour rendering of
these globes is sure to impress! For
a $30 investment you could save up
to $600 on your power bill per
globe changed over its life time.
Far exceeds the life of
CFL bulbs. Fits standard
fittings. Warm white,
7 Watts (equivalent to
normal 40 Watt bulb).
X 2271 Edison Screw
X 2281 Bayonet
(SC Oct ‘10) Never get lost at sea again! Shows speed and
heading - plus it will navigate you back home - or to that secret
fishing spot! It even displays fuel consumption, along with a
host of other vital information.
Fully up to date model with
all circuit improvements
made by Silicon Chip.
249
$
K 6032
NEW!
1.5kW Induction Motor Speed Controller Kit
4 for
40
$
SAVE 20%
Sale Ends July 31st 2014
B 0092
GPS Boat Computer Kit
True 50W halogen equivalent with
80% lower power consumption.
High Brightness
LED Globes
Altronics Phone 1300 797 007 Fax 1300 789 777
siliconchip.com.au
Huge saving!
(SC April-May ‘13) This revolutionary design is suitable for
motors up to 1.5kW (2HP) and can be used to control speed over
a wide range. It will save big dollars with swimming pool pumps
and will be great for running machinery at different speeds. Even
better, it will control 3-phase motors as well! Note: This is a kit design
for advanced constructors. Designed for connection to 240V mains devices.
Please Note: Resellers have to pay the cost of freight and
insurance and therefore the range of stocked products & prices
charged by individual resellers may vary from our catalogue.
Mail Orders: C/- P.O. Box 8350 Perth Business Centre, W.A. 6849
© Altronics 2014. E&OE. Prices stated herein are only valid for the current month or until stocks run out. All prices include GST and exclude freight and
insurance. See latest catalogue for freight rates. All major credit cards accepted.
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Music Workshop
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AV2PC
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Fettel Comms.
Smithfield
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Darwin Combined Comm. Solutions
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Christchurch - Riccarton Global PC
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Global PC
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1300 716 840
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+64 3 3434475
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July 2014 79
L-o-o-o-n-g gating times
for the 12-Digit
High-Resolution Counter
By JIM ROWE
This add-on PCB module enables higher resolution measurements
with the 12-Digit Frequency/ Period Counter described in the
December 2012 & January 2013 issues of SILICON CHIP. It adds an
additional decade divider for the external timebase input to allow
measurements using a gating time of 10,000 seconds (nearly three
hours) and includes front-panel LEDs for gating indication.
D
URING OUR RECENT work in
calibrating an ex-telecoms rubidium frequency standard (SILICON
CHIP, April 2014 issue), it became apparent that it was possible to improve
the 12-Digit High Resolution Counter
to make it better for this type of very
high resolution frequency measurement. This would involve a small
module which could be built inside
the counter’s case. The end result provides three separate improvements, as
outlined below.
One of the functions I wasn’t able
to provide on the original 12-digit
counter was any indication of when
the counter’s gate is open and counting is under way. This doesn’t matter
much when you’re making measurements at short gating times like 1 second or 10 seconds, because each new
reading follows the last in relatively
short order. But it becomes a drawback when you’re using longer gating
80 Silicon Chip
times for higher resolution frequency
measurements.
For example, if you want to measure
with a resolution of 1mHz (0.001Hz),
each measurement involves a gating
time of 1000 seconds and there’s also a
gap of 1000 seconds between measurements, because of the way the counter
works. Without any indication of when
the gate is actually open and counting is taking place, it’s not possible to
tell whether it’s counting or ‘waiting
between counts’.
So one of the improvements provided by the new add-on module is
to provide an indication of when the
counter’s gate is open and counting is
under way. It does this with a bi-colour
LED, which is red when the gate is
open for odd counts and green when
the gate is open for alternate even
counts. Because it doesn’t light at all
during the gaps between counts, this
makes it quite easy to tell at a glance
what the counter’s status is at any
particular time.
But what if you’re over the other
side of the room, or perhaps in another
room – so you can’t be glancing over at
the counter all the time? To solve this,
the module includes a simple beeper
circuit, which operates a piezo buzzer
for a short time at the start of each new
counting period. So all you need to
do is keep an ear out for the beep, to
let you know when a new count has
begun. Then you can go over to the
counter and record the previous count
(which continues to be displayed during the new count).
The circuit of the add-on module
has been arranged so that the beeper is
only activated when the counter is set
for gating times of 100s or more. For
the shorter gating times, it’s disabled.
The beeper circuit is also linkprogrammable with respect to the
actual beep duration. There’s a choice
siliconchip.com.au
of four different beep durations: 0.5
seconds, 2 seconds, 16 seconds or 128
seconds. So you can easily select the
duration that’s most suitable for your
application.
The third improvement provided by
the new module enables the counter
to make really high resolution measurements. It’s an additional synchronous decade divider for the counter’s
external timebase input, so that the
maximum gating time/counting period
can be extended to 10,000 seconds –
allowing you to make frequency measurements with a resolution of 100µHz
(100 microhertz or 10-4 Hz).
But there’s a price to pay for making this type of measurement with
the counter: each count will take 2
hours and 47 minutes, with a gap of
the same duration between counts. So
you’ll need to be patient but at least
the indicator LED and beeper will let
you get on with other things!
Note that the additional timebase
divider can be switched out of circuit
when it’s not needed and another LED
indicates when the additional divider
is being used. This LED will also remind you to ‘bump up’ the decimal
point in the counter’s display, because
the counter itself has no way of knowing that the additional divider is in use.
Circuit details
The full circuit for the new add-on
module is shown in Fig.1. The circuitry for the ‘gate open’ indication
is at the top, the ‘beep at the start of
each count’ function is in the centre
and the additional timebase divider
circuitry is at the bottom.
The ‘gate open’ indication circuitry
involves gate IC1b, flipflop IC2a and
transistors Q1, Q2 & Q3. IC1b is used
as an inverting buffer, which takes a
‘GATE OPEN-bar’ signal derived from
pin 2 of IC18a on the counter’s main
PCB and inverts it to provide an active high ‘GATE OPEN’ signal with a
positive-going leading edge. This leading edge is then used to toggle flipflop
IC2a, which therefore changes state at
the start of each new count.
The flipflop’s two outputs (Q and Qbar) are then used to control transistors
Q2 & Q3, so only one of these is able
to conduct at any time to allow current to flow through either LED1a or
LED1b. This depends on whether the
counter is performing an odd count or
an even count, although these labels
are purely arbitrary.
siliconchip.com.au
The main add-on logic module is mounted on the lid of the counter’s case, while
the smaller add-on LED board is attached to one end of the counter’s display PCB.
An extra switch is also mounted on the rear panel.
Whether either of the two LEDs is
able to conduct current doesn’t just depend on transistors Q2 & Q3, however;
because neither LED can pass current
unless transistor Q1 is also conducting. Q1 is only able to conduct current
when it is provided with forward base
current via the 22kΩ series resistor
connected to pin 4 of IC1b.
So Q1 only conducts when the
‘GATE OPEN’ signal on pin 4 of IC1b
is high (ie, during counting).
Hence LED1a lights only during odd
counting periods and LED1b is on only
during even counting periods. In the
gaps between counting periods, both
LEDs remain dark.
Gating beeper circuit
The beeper section involves gates
IC1a, IC1c & IC1d, together with timer
IC3 and transistor Q4 to switch the
piezo buzzer on and off.
The input gating circuitry may look
a little strange but it’s really quite
straightforward. IC1a is being used
as another inverter, to derive a ‘GATE
OPEN-bar’ signal from the signal at pin
4 of IC1b. This is then fed to pin 13
of IC1d, used here as a negative input
logic AND gate.
We don’t want the beeper to function when the counter is being used
with the shorter gating periods, so the
second input of IC1d (pin 12) is connected to IC1c’s output pin (pin 10),
while IC1c’s inputs are connected to
two pins of IC23 on the main counter
PCB: pin 2, which carries the 100s
gating signal (H = 100s gating) and pin
6 which carries the 1000s gating signal
(H = 1000s gating).
Since IC1c a NOR gate, this means
that its pin 10 output will only switch
low when the counter is set for either
100s or 1000s gating. Accordingly, pin
12 of IC1d will only be taken low for
these gating times also, and will be
kept high for the shorter gating times.
So even when pin 13 of IC1d drops low
during GATE OPEN’ periods, IC1d’s
pin 11 output will not be able to switch
high unless the counter is set for either
100s or 1000s gating.
The output from pin 11 of IC1d is
coupled to the MRST input (pin 6)
of timer chip IC3 via a differentiator
circuit using a 470nF capacitor and
10kΩ resistor. This is done so that IC3
only receives a short triggering pulse,
derived from the leading edge of the
gated positive-going signal from IC1d.
I’ll explain the reason for this shortly.
IC3 is a 4541B programmable digital CMOS counter/timer, used here
to time the duration of our ‘start of a
new count’ beeper. It’s triggered via
MRST input pin 6, while its output
at pin 8 is used to control the piezo
buzzer via transistor Q4. The duration
of the output pulse (and therefore the
length of the beep) is determined by
July 2014 81
Parts List
1 PCB, code 04106141, 169 x
45mm (cut into two boards,
137 x 45mm & 30.5 x 45mm)
3 6-pin PCB-mount right-angle
polarised locking headers,
0.1-inch spacing
3 6-pin polarised locking plug
sockets, 0.1-inch spacing
2 2-pin SIL headers (or 1 x 4-pin
DIL header) for LK1 & LK2)
2 2-pin jumper shunts
1 piezo buzzer, 24mm diameter,
PCB mounting
1 DPDT panel-mount mini toggle
switch
1 1m-length of 6-conductor
rainbow ribbon cable
3 6G x 6mm self-tapping screws
2 M3 x 9mm machine screws
2 M3 flat washers
Semiconductors
1 4001B quad CMOS NOR gate
(IC1)
1 4013B dual D-type flipflop (IC2)
1 4541B programmable CMOS
timer (IC3)
1 4017B Johnson decade
counter/divider (IC4)
2 PN100 NPN transistors (Q1,Q4)
2 PN200 PNP transistors (Q2,Q3)
1 5mm 3-pin common-cathode
red/green bicolour LED (LED1)
(Altronics Z0885)
1 3mm blue LED, waterclear
(LED2)
3 1N4148 silicon diodes (D1-D3)
Capacitors
1 10µF 16V RB electrolytic
1 470nF MKT or MMC
6 100nF MMC (multilayer
monolithic ceramic)
Resistors (0.25W 1%)
1 33kΩ
1 2.2kΩ
4 22kΩ
2 1kΩ
2 15kΩ
1 470Ω
6 10kΩ
1 100Ω
the timing components connected to
pins 1, 2 & 3, which set the frequency
of the 4541B’s internal clock oscillator
and also by links LK1 and LK2 which
program the 4541B in terms of its
timing count setting. As you can see
from the small table at centre left of
Fig.1, the link combinations provide
a choice of four beep durations: from
half a second up to 128 seconds.
82 Silicon Chip
But why did we have to provide a
short triggering pulse for IC3 – why
couldn’t we simply use the logic output signal from IC1d directly? That’s
because IC3 only provides its ‘end of
timing count’ output pulse from pin 8
if the input triggering pulse supplied
to pin 6 has ended. And in this circuit, the output signal from IC1d can
of course stay at the high logic level
for as long as 100s or 1000s (or even
10,000s), which would prevent IC3
from ever activating the beeper.
So by using the simple differentiator
shown, we derive a relatively short
trigger pulse from the rising edge of
the output signal from IC1d, ensuring
that the triggering signal at pin 6 of IC3
has dropped back to zero in no more
than about 100ms. This allows correct
beeper operation, even with a beep
duration of only 0.5 seconds.
By the way, diode D3 is provided
simply to ensure that any negative
pulse appearing at input pin 6 of IC3
when the output of IC1d does drop
back to zero (when the counter’s gate
finally closes) is limited to an amplitude of -0.6V.
Additional divider stage
Now let’s look at the circuitry at the
bottom of Fig.1, which provides the
additional ‘divide-by-10’ function to
extend the counting duration when
using an external timebase, eg, the 1Hz
pulses from a GPS receiver or a rub
idium time and frequency standard.
This uses a 4017B Johnson-type
synchronous CMOS decade counter
(IC4). Its CP0 input (pin 14) is connected directly to CON3 at the rear of
the main counter PCB, which is disconnected from the original external
timebase input by removing the 1kΩ
series resistor just to the front of CON3.
Diodes D1 and D2, together with the
100Ω and 22kΩ resistors, are used to
protect the input of IC4 from possible
over-voltage damage.
This additional timebase divider is
always fed with the external timebase
signal from CON3. However, whether
or not its output is fed to the external
timebase input of the counter is controlled by added switch S1, which is
fitted to the counter’s rear panel. This
is a double-pole switch, with its ‘a’
section used to select either the raw
external timebase signal from CON3 or
alternatively, the pin 12 output of IC4.
S1a’s common terminal is connected
back to the external timebase input of
the counter via a 1kΩ series resistor,
which replaces the one that’s removed
to tap into the signal from CON3.
S1b is simply used to switch LED2
in or out of circuit, so that this LED
only glows when S1a has been set to
make use of the additional timebase
divider.
One last point: the 100nF capacitor
and 10kΩ resistor connected to pin
15 of IC4 are simply there to deliver a
short reset pulse to this IC when power
is first applied to the counter, so that
IC4 starts off ‘on the right foot’.
Construction
As shown in Fig.2 and the photos,
virtually all the components used in
the add-on module are fitted onto two
small PCBs, which are cut apart from
a single board measuring 169 x 45mm
and coded 04106141. The larger PCB
(coded 04106141a) carries most of the
components and circuitry, and mounts
up inside the righthand end of the
counter’s lid.
The smaller PCB (coded 04106141b)
carries only the two extra LEDs and is
mounted at the righthand end of the
counter’s display PCB, behind the
front panel and with the extra LEDs
just protruding through two additional
holes in the panel.
Three ribbon cables are used to
make the connections. These go between the two add-on PCBs, between
the larger add-on PCB and the main
counter PCB, and to added switch
S1 and the external timebase input
circuitry (CON3). This should all be
fairly clear from the overlay diagram
of Fig.2 and also the internal photos.
Cut the two boards apart and smooth
their cut edges with a small file before
you add any of the components. You
can then begin the assembly of the
larger board by installing the two wire
links, followed by the resistors, diodes,
capacitors, transistors and ICs.
The three 6-pin 90° header plugs
and the two 2-pin SIL headers for LK1
and LK2 can then go in. The piezo
buzzer can be left until last, as it’s
relatively large and makes it hard to
access some of the other components
once it’s in place.
Next, you can fit the two LEDs to
the smaller PCB, both with their ‘flat’
sides (cathodes) downwards as shown
in Fig.2. Leave their leads about 14mm
long above the top surface of the PCB,
as this will be about the right length for
the LEDs to protrude slightly through
siliconchip.com.au
+5V
1 +5V FROM
IC23 PIN 20
GATE OPEN
SIGNAL FROM
3 IC18a PIN 2 5
14
6
100nF
10 µF
IC2: 4013B
6
GATE OPEN TIME
5
D
C
22k
B
4
E
Q1
PN100
4
470Ω
CON7
10k
2
Q
Vss
7
R
C
1
Q3
PN200
22k
B
GATE OPEN
ODD OR EVEN
COUNTS
3
GA
RA
LED1a
GROUNDS
FROM
COUNTER’S
MAIN
PCB
2
C
10k
IC 2 a
IC1b
E
B
14
Vdd 1
Q
S
CLK
3
4
Q2
PN200 E
22k
λ
2
LED1b
100nF
λ
K
GATE OPEN & COUNTING INDICATION
2
100s GATING SIGNAL
5
FROM IC23 PIN2
6
IC1a
+5V
GATE OPEN TIME
3
14
VDD
5
9
AUTORST
Q/Q SEL
1
1000s GATING SIGNAL
FROM IC23 PIN6
IC1: 4001B
13
12
CON6
9
Q1, Q4: PN100
Q2, Q3: PN200
IC1d
11
470nF
6
K
7
10k
IC1c
A
LK1
LK2
OUT
IN
OUT
IN
16 SECONDS
OUT
IN
IN
3
15k
BEEP DURATION
OUT
33k
100nF 2
LOW = 100s OR 1000s
GATING SELECTED
CSEL B
CSEL A
D3
10
8
MRST
1
IC3
4541B
RS
OUT
13
+
PIEZO
BUZZER
12
C
15k
8
B
RTC
MODE
10
E
Q4
PN100
2x
10k
Vss
7
+5V
0.5 SECONDS
128 SECONDS
K
16
100nF
D1
A
100Ω
Vdd
14
CP0
O7
O6
15
D2
22k
A
1k
MR
O5
O4
O3
O2
CP1
O1
Vss
3
2
IC4
4017B
10k
13
4
100nF
O9
O8
K
1
2.2k
LK2
CTC
START NEW COUNT BEEPER
(100s GATING & ABOVE)
2 SECONDS
100nF
LK1
8
CON5
O5-9
12
O0
1k
11
9
A
6
λ LED2
6
5
K
5
1
(CON7)
10
7
4
2
3
8
9
5
6
(CON5)
11
÷1
S1a
÷10
EXT TB
10
ADDITIONAL ÷10 GATING TIME DIVIDER
÷1
÷10
S
D
Q
IC 2 b
CLK
R
10
Q
13
12
S1b
K
(CON3)
D6
1k
(REMOVE
FROM PCB)
A
K
22k
D5
NOTE: LED1 AND LED2 ARE MOUNTED ON
THE SMALL ADDED DISPLAY PCB. ALL OTHER
PARTS ARE ON THE LARGER ADD-ON PCB.
A
AG K
SC
K
A
AR
(ON MAIN COUNTER PCB)
20 1 4
LED2
LED1
PN100, PN200
ADD-ON MODULE FOR HI-RES COUNTER
D1– D3: 1N4148
A
K
B
C
E
Fig.1: the add-on module is based on four CMOS ICs (IC1-IC4). The ‘gate open’ indication circuitry is at the top, the
‘beep at the start of each count’ circuit is in the centre and the added timebase divider circuitry is at the bottom.
the front panel when the board is
mounted in position.
Once both PCBs have been fully assiliconchip.com.au
sembled, the larger one can be fitted
inside the upper half of the counter’s
case, at the righthand end. Note that
it’s mounted upside-down, with the
copper side towards the case lid and
the component side facing inwards.
July 2014 83
RIBBON CABLE TO MAIN COUNTER PCB
+5V, GND, IC18 PIN 2, IC23 PINS 2, 6
* ON MAIN COUNTER PCB
100nF
100nF
3 x 6mm LONG SELF-TAPPING SCREWS MOUNTING
THIS ADD-ON LOGIC PCB INSIDE RIGHT-HAND
END OF UPPER HALF OF COUNTER CASE
b14150140
EXT TB
x10
A
K
LED2
Led1ga
Led1k
Led1Ra
Q2
PN200
GA
K
RA
LED1
Led2k
Led2a
6
Led2k
Led2a
5
Q3
PN200
22k
22k
IC2
IC1
100nF
3 4
Led1ga
Led1k
Led1Ra
470Ω
22k
10k
10k
470nF
1 2
6
4013B
5
LINK
3 4
GATE OPEN
ODD/EVEN
COUNTS
1k
LINK
D3
2
15k
33k
IC3
LK1
4541B
+
4017B
100nF
2.2k
1
RET NU O C SER-I H
ELUD O M N O-DDA
a14150140
Q1
PN100
100nF
D2
D1
IC4
1k
100Ω
22k
4148
4148
10k
4148
BUZZER
CUT THE TWO PCBS
APART HERE
CON7
+5V
GND
GATEOPEN
GND
10 0 sGATE
1 000sGATE
6
LK2
5
10k
10k
4
100nF
3
10k
2
CON3 &
S1a x1
S1aROT
S1a x10
CtrTB I/P
S1bROT
S1b x10
1
RIBBON CABLE TO ADD-ON
LED PCB (LEDS 1 & 2)
CON6
+
15k
PIEZO 4 1 0 2 C
PN100
Q4 10 µF
CON5
4001B
RIBBON CABLE TO S1,
CON3* , CATHODE OF D5*
RIBBON CABLE FROM
CON7 ON ADD-ON LOGIC PCB
Fig.2: cut the PCB into two sections as indicated, before installing the parts on the two modules. Make sure that all
polarised parts are correctly orientated and be careful not to get the ICs mixed up. The photo at right shows the
completed add-on logic module mounted in place on the case lid.
The PCB is held in place using three
small 6mm long self-tapping screws
which mate with three of the small
standoffs moulded inside the case lid
at that end.
After that, you need to drill two
additional holes in the counter’s front
panel (to allow the two extra LEDs to
protrude and be visible) and also a
single additional hole in the rear panel
to accept toggle switch S1.
Fig.5 shows the size and location
of these two additional holes in the
front panel. Note that these line up
horizontally with the uppermost and
lowest of the three existing LED holes
in the panel just to the right of the main
display window, but are only 10mm in
from the righthand end of the panel.
The single additional hole in the
rear panel should have a diameter of
6.5mm to allow S1 to be fitted but its
exact location is not critical.
This should be located directly
above CON3, about 55mm up from
the bottom of the rear panel. This
allows S1 to be activated quite easily
by reaching over the case top.
The next step is to make up the three
interconnecting ribbon cables. One
of these (the one to connect from the
centre connector to various points on
the main counter PCB) should be about
300mm long, while the other two can
be around 230mm long.
One of the two shorter cables (the
one used to connect to the small LED
display PCB) needs only five conductors rather than six.
To assemble each cable, bare all of
their conductors for about 4mm at each
end. Then you need to crimp and solder each conductor (at one end) to one
of the pins of a 6-way polarised and
locking header socket. That done, you
can cut the pins from their carrier strip
and push each one into the slots of the
plastic socket moulding. Make sure
that you push each clip fully home, ie,
until its small barb clicks into the slot
near the end. If you don’t do this, the
clips won’t remain in position.
Make sure also that with the 5-wire
shorter cable, you push the five clips
into slots 1, 2, 3, 5 & 6 of the header
socket. Leave slot 4 empty, because the
corresponding pin of CON7 (the connector with which this cable socket
mates) isn’t used.
Once the header sockets have been
attached to one end of each cable,
you’re then ready to connect the free
ends of each cable to the designated
points on either the small add-on
display PCB, the counter’s main PCB
or the added toggle switch S1, on the
rear panel.
For example, the conductors of the
short 5-way cable are connected to
their matching holes along the bottom
of the LED display PCB (04106141b),
as shown at bottom right in Fig.2. Once
all five have been soldered to their
Table 2: Capacitor Codes
Value µF Value IEC Code EIA Code
470nF 0.47µF 470n
474
100nF 0.1µF
100n
104
Table 1: Resistor Colour Codes
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
No.
1
4
2
6
1
2
1
1
84 Silicon Chip
Value
33kΩ
22kΩ
15kΩ
10kΩ
2.2kΩ
1kΩ
470Ω
100Ω
4-Band Code (1%)
orange orange orange brown
red red orange brown
brown green orange brown
brown black orange brown
red red red brown
brown black red brown
yellow violet brown brown
brown black brown brown
5-Band Code (1%)
orange orange black red brown
red red black red brown
brown green black red brown
brown black black red brown
red red black brown brown
brown black black brown brown
yellow violet black black brown
brown black black black brown
siliconchip.com.au
pads on the rear of the add-on LED
PCB, this board can be fitted into the
counter case.
ADDED LED DISPLAY BOARD
(SPACED BEHIND MAIN DISPLAY PCB
USING TWO M3 FLAT WASHERS)
Mounting the LED board
As you can see from Fig.3 and one
of the inside photos, the added LED
display PCB is mounted just behind
the counter’s existing main display
PCB, at its righthand end (as viewed
from the front of the counter). This
is done by removing the two existing
M3 x 6mm screws attaching the main
display PCB to the Nylon spacers at
that end, and then replacing them
with two M3 x 9mm screws and M3
flat washers.
Each of these screws pass through a
mounting hole of the add-on LED PCB
(from the copper side), then through an
M3 flat washer (acting as a thin spacer)
before passing through the holes in the
main display PCB and then into the
Nylon spacers as before. When both
screws are tightened, both boards will
then be mounted securely behind the
front panel.
Once the other shorter ribbon cable
has been fitted with its 6-way header
socket and clips, you can then solder
the free ends of two of its conductors
to the main counter PCB, just behind
CON3 at the right rear and to the pads
at each end of the position where the
1kΩ resistor was removed (see photo).
Basically, the conductor coming
from pin 4 of CON5 (on the add-on
logic PCB) connects to the pad on the
left, while the conductor from pin 1
of CON5 connects to the pad on the
right. The latter also connects to the
siliconchip.com.au
LED1
M3 x 9mm SCREWS
REPLACING ORIGINAL
SCREWS AT RH END
OF MAIN DISPLAY PCB
LED2
RIBBON CABLE TO
MAIN ADD-ON PCB
MAIN COUNTER DISPLAY PCB
MAIN PCB
FRONT
PANEL
BOTTOM OF CASE
Fig.3: this cross-section diagram shows how the add-on LED display PCB is
attached to the righthand end of the original display PCB (as viewed from
the front) using two M3 flat washers plus two M3 x 9mm machine screws
into the original Nylon spacers.
upper left lug of switch S1, although
you may wish to make this second
connection using another short length
of hookup wire.
The other four conductors of this
ribbon cable connect to the other lugs
of S1. The one from CON5 pin 2 goes to
the centre lefthand lug, while the one
from CON5 pin 3 goes to the lowest
lug on the lefthand side.
Similarly, the one from CON5 pin 6
goes to the lowest lug on the righthand
side of S1, while the one from CON5
pin 5 goes to the centre-right lug of
switch S1 (the common terminal).
All that remains after the two shorter
ribbon cables have been fitted is to do
the same with the longest of the three
cables. This is the one used to make
the connections between CON6 of the
add-on logic PCB to various points on
the counter’s main PCB. All of these
points are pins on two of the ICs and
it’s quite easy to solder each lead to its
corresponding pin using a fine-tipped
soldering iron.
Here’s how these conductors are
wired. First, the wire from CON6 pin 1
July 2014 85
10
E
Fig.4: follow this
diagram to mark
out and drill the two
additional holes in
the front panel.
13
A
45.75
This photo shows the wiring to DPDT
toggle switch S1, to CON3 and to the
main PCB where the 1kΩ resistor was
removed (ie, just behind CON3).
HOLE A: 3.5mm DIAMETER; HOLE E: 5.0 mm DIAMETER
ALL DIMENSIONS IN MILLIMETRES
goes to pin 20 of IC23, on the lefthand
rear side of the main PCB. The wire
from CON6 pin 2 then goes to pin 1
of the same IC, while the wires from
CON6 pins 5 & 6 go to pins 6 & 2 of
IC23, respectively.
The remaining two conductors are
taken to two pins of IC18. In this case,
the wire from CON6 pin 3 goes to pin
2 of IC18, while the one from CON6
pin 4 goes to pin 7 of IC18.
All that remains is to fit whatever
combination of jumper shunts you
wish to LK1 and LK2 (just to the left
of IC3 on the add-on logic PCB), to
program it for the beep duration you
want, and then plug each of the three
interconnecting ribbon cables into
their correct pin headers (ie, into
CON5, CON6 & CON7). That done, you
should be able to refit the case lid to
the counter and apply power to get it
all working again.
Don’t be surprised when the counter emits a beep as soon as power is
turned back on. This doesn’t indicate
any sort of problem; it’s just a quirk of
the 4541B timer IC, which produces
an output pulse as soon as power is
applied.
Final comments
This circuit is a worthwhile addition
to the 12-Digit High-Resolution Counter, especially if you will be making
high-resolution measurements. Admittedly, such measurements will be very
time-consuming compared to a counter
which has interpolation technology
instead of the long-term averaging
system we used in the December 2012/
SC
January 2013 design.
The connections from the add-on logic module to the main counter PCB, the add-on LED PCB and to other components
are run using ribbon cable.
86 Silicon Chip
siliconchip.com.au
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions will be
paid for at standard rates. All submissions should include full name, address & phone number.
330Ω
100 µF
16V
100nF
330nF
470 µF
25V
10k
V+
8
IN1–
7
10k*
IN1+
–
47 µF 25V
OUT1 1
47nF
100nF
CON1
1k
150nF
D
G
1 A
VR2
220Ω
4.7Ω
K
INJECTOR
2
Q1
J201
VR1
22k
S
INPUT
1M
10Ω
IC1
TDA2822M
D1
S1
10Ω
CON3
+
22k
* MAY NEED TO BE
CHANGED TO SUIT Q1
POWER
2
10k
330nF
CON2
+Vcc
6 IN2+
5
IN2–
2.2nF
CON4
470 µF 25V
OUT1 3
–
100nF
GND
100 µF
10V
1k*
+
4
8 Ω (32 Ω)
SPEAKER
3.3k
4.7Ω
J201
D1: 1N4148
Signal injector and tracer uses
TDA2822M dual power amplifier
The TDA2822 dual power amplifier has other applications besides
being used as an audio amplifier.
In this circuit, one half is used as a
free-running audio oscillator to be
used as a signal injector for troubleshooting audio circuits while the
other half is used as a signal tracer.
In use, the signal injector is fed
into the input of the equipment
being investigated while the signal
tracer is used to check how the signal
amplitude changes as it progresses
through the various stages.
Let’s have a look at the audio oscillator section first. The inverting
input, pin 8, is biased by a voltage
divider consisting of 10kΩ and
22kΩ resistors. The non-inverting
input, pin 7, has a 100nF capacitor
connected to the 0V line and this is
alternately charged and discharged
A
from the output at pin 1 via the 10kΩ
resistor.
This results in a triangle waveform
at pin 7 and a square wave at pin 1,
running at about 1kHz. This is coupled to level potentiometer VR2 via
a 47µF capacitor and directly to the
output connector CON3 via a 10Ω
resistor. Hence there are fixed and
variable outputs available at CON3.
The fixed output can drive an
8-ohm or higher impedance loudspeaker or headphones while the
variable output can be used for the
above-mentioned signal injector
function.
The second power amplifier
in the TDA2822M (IC1b) is used
for the signal tracer function. It
is preceded by a J201 junction
FET which is used as a highimpedance gain stage. Its drain out-
Issues Getting Dog-Eared?
K
S
G
D
put is coupled via a 330nF capacitor
to switch S1.
For tracing RF signals, this can be
switched to select diode D1, which,
in conjunction with the 2.2nF
capacitor will function as an AM
signal demodulator. The recovered
audio modulation is then fed via
potentiometer VR1 to IC1a.
Alternatively, switch S1 can be
moved to position 2, bypassing diode D1, to couple the audio signal
directly to VR1.
Note that the circuit is sensitive
enough to be fed with typical dynamic microphones as well.
IC1b has a typical fixed gain of
39dB (ie, 90 times) and drives an
external loudspeaker or headphones
of between 8-32Ω. Potentiometer
VR1 should be adjusted to provide
a comfortable volume.
Petre Petrov,
Sofia, Bulgaria. ($50)
Keep your copies safe with our handy binders
Order online from www.siliconchip.com.au or fill in and mail the handy order form in this issue or ring (02)
9939 3295 and quote your credit card number.
siliconchip.com.au
July 2014 87
Circuit Notebook – Continued
REG1 LM2576-ADJ
1
+
36V
INPUT
3
100 µF
50V OR 63V
–
VIN
VOUT
ON
FEEDBK
L1 470 µH (3A)
internal switching transistor in the
regulator and through the 470µH inductor. When the regulator’s internal
switching transistor turns off, L1’s
magnetic field begins to collapse
and as it decays, current continues
to flow through the now conducting
diode (D1). Then, power is reapplied
to recharge the inductor’s magnetic
field and the process repeats.
The 1000µF output capacitor
reduces supply ripple, while the
100µF capacitor at the input is for
regulator stability. A voltage divider
comprising a 6.2kΩ and 1kΩ resistor reduce the output voltage and
applies this to the feedback input.
The output voltage is maintained at
about 8.8V with the feedback input
at a nominal 1.23V.
More information can be found
in the LM2576 data sheet (www.
ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm2576.pdf)
and switchmode design software is
available at http://www.ti.com/tool/
powerstage-designer
John Clarke,
SILICON CHIP.
TO
HEADLAMP
2
8.8V OUT
<at> 1A
4
6.2k
K
D1
FR302
GND
5
1000 µF
16V
LOW ESR
A
1k
LM2 5 7 6–ADJT
FR302
Headlight circuit for
a 36V electric bike
There are now many very-high
brightness LED headlamps on the
market intended for pushbikes. Most
are based around an 8.4V battery
pack with either two lithium-ion
cells in series or two sets of two cells
in parallel.
However, the motors on most
electric bikes are powered by a 36V
A
K
1
88 Silicon Chip
45
battery. This switchmode supply
efficiently steps down the 36V bike
battery voltage to power an 8.4V LED
headlamp.
The circuit uses a simple switcher,
the LM2576-ADJ. This effectively
provides a buck (step-down) regulator using only a few components.
Power is applied to the load via an
+5V
RS232 input for nonstandard signals
While it serves its intended purpose of interfacing legacy equipment, the USB/RS232 interface
circuit in the April 2014 issue of
SILICON CHIP does not handle TTL
signals (0.8V low, 2.5V high) very
well. It also does not have the specified input impedance of 3-8kΩ ohms
for inputs of 3-15V, which is 2.5kΩ
for an input of 10V.
This alternative circuit has three
settings:
(1) normal RS232: the output of
the circuit is about 1.2V less than
the input for positive voltages and
-0.6V less than the input for negative
voltages, with the input impedance
approximately equal to the input
impedance of the following MAX232
input pin (about 5kΩ).
(2) CMOS: the input impedance of
the circuit is increased by a factor
of at least 50 for inputs in the range
0-5V, allowing CMOS to be interfaced. For outputs larger than 5V,
the input impedance is the correct
value, as the output current is sup-
23
–15V OR O/C
S1a
S1b
A
A
D1
D2
D3
K
A
10k
RS232
INPUT
K
D4
K
A
B
C
Q1
PART OF
MAX232, ETC.
E
D5
K
D1–D5: 1N4148
Q1: BC337 OR SIMILAR
K
A
Zin = 3–7kΩ
FOR NORMAL BIPOLAR RS232 INPUT, SET SWITCH TO
RIGHT HAND POSITION AS SHOWN
FOR CMOS 0-5V ‘RS232', SET SWITCH TO CENTRE POSITION
FOR TTL ‘RS232', SET SWITCH TO LEFT HAND POSITION
plied by the input current instead of
the +5V supply.
(3) TTL: the 10kΩ pull-up resistor
increases the output voltage range
of the TTL from 0.8-2.5V to 0.8-4.4V.
This setting will not work with most
CMOS circuitry.
If using multiple input lines,
the circuit can be replicated using
BC 33 7
1N4148
A
K
B
E
C
only the one double-pole 3-position
switch.
Robert H. Bennett,
Auckland, NZ. ($40)
siliconchip.com.au
MATERIAL: 0.7mm COPPER SHEET
(ALL DIMENSIONS IN MILLIMETRES)
(H
AN
D
LE
)
5.5
BEND DOWN
LEG BY 90°
3.0
14-15.0
(NOT CRITICAL)
10 APPROX
BEND LEGS
DOWN BY 90°
BEND UP
(APPROX 45°)
FOR SOT-143
PACKAGE
SCALE: 2:1 (Twice actual size)
5.5
BEND DOWN
LEG BY 90°
LEG
LEG
BEND LEGS
DOWN BY 90°
BEND LEGS
DOWN BY 90°
10 APPROX
FOR ‘1210'
PASSIVES
HANDLE
(BEND UP BY 45° APPROX)
LEG
LEG
HANDLE
(BEND UP BY 45° APPROX)
1.5
2.5
2.5
2.75
BEND LEGS
DOWN BY 90°
3.0
1.25
1.25
1.5
1.5
FOR SOIC-8 PACKAGE
LEG
NOTE: HANDLES MAY BE TAPERED AS
SHOWN, TO SUIT SCALPEL OR CHUCK
OF HOBBY KNIFE HOLDER
Simple DIY gizmos
for SMD desoldering
While surface-mount components
may present challenges to solder, it
can be far more difficult to desolder
and remove them. Of course, such
tasks are made straightforward if you
have a professional soldering and rework station of the type that has both
a soldering iron and a desoldering
tool. The latter often has a hot-air
blower system, plus a selection of
multi-legged desoldering tips.
However, many hobbyists do not
have one of these rework stations
since they seldom need to remove
and replace SMDs. For these readers,
I have devised a set of desoldering
attachments (gizmos) for a standard
soldering iron tip, so that it can be
used to desolder SMDs.
They’re in the shape of a ‘T’ cut
from small pieces of 0.7mm thick
copper sheet and then bent up carefully using a small pair of pliers and/
or a small vise so that they form an
inverted-U shape with a ‘handle’
PLACE HOT TIP OF
SOLDERING IRON ON
TOP OF GIZMO FOR
A FEW SECONDS
POSITION GIZMO
OVER SOIC-8 DEVICE
WITH LEGS OVER
DEVICE LEADS
WHEN SOLDER HAS MELTED,
REMOVE SOLDERING IRON AND
LIFT GIZMO. DEVICE MAY BE
LIFTED FROM PCB PADS AS WELL
HOW THE GIZMOS ARE USED FOR DESOLDERING SMDs
attached to one end. The handle is
then used to position them above the
device you want to desolder, with the
‘legs’ above the device leads (or ends
of passive components).
Then when you apply the tip of
your heated iron to the ‘flat’ on the
top of the inverted U, its copper legs
conduct the heat down to the component leads – heating all solder joints
at the same time. After a few seconds
you can then remove the iron tip and
lift the gizmo clear.
You can then grab the device itself
with tweezers and lift it from the PCB
– although the gizmo often brings
the device away with it, attached via
capillary action in the still-molten
solder. If the latter happens, you can
usually nudge it away from the gizmo
using your tweezers.
With the first couple of desoldering gizmos I made up, the handle
section was made fairly short – just
long enough to be locked between
the jaws of a small scalpel. However,
with the later and larger gizmos, I
made the handle section somewhat
longer and tapered it down on the
outer end, so it would slip inside the
chuck of a small hobby knife holder.
Either way, the scalpel or hobby
knife holder becomes a convenient
extension handle for the gizmo. This
makes it possible for you to hold the
gizmo in position with one hand,
while you’re holding the soldering
iron with the other hand.
The dimensions of the gizmos are
shown in the accompanying diagrams.
The first is one to desolder 1206-size
passive components (eg, resistors
and capacitors), while the second
one is a little larger for desoldering
SOT-143 4-lead transistor packages.
The third one is larger again, for
desoldering 8-lead SOIC devices.
The second diagram shows how
the gizmos are actually used, with
the SOIC-8 gizmo shown as the
example.
You can buy a small rectangle of
0.7mm copper sheet from hobby
stores for just a few dollars.
Jim Rowe,
SILICON CHIP.
co n tr ib u ti on
MAY THE BEST MAN WIN!
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July 2014 89
SILICON
CHIP
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PRE-PROGRAMMED MICROS Price for any of these micros is just $15.00 each + $10 p&p per order#
As a service to readers, SILICON CHIP ONLINESHOP stocks microcontrollers and microprocessors used in new projects (from 2012 on) and
some selected older projects – pre-programmed and ready to fly!
Some micros from copyrighted and/or contributed projects may not be available.
PIC12F675-I/P
PIC16F1507-I/P
PIC16F88-E/P
PIC16F88-I/P
PIC16LF88-I/P
PIC16LF88-I/SO
PIC16F877A-I/P
PIC18F2550-I/SP
PIC18F45K80
PIC18F4550-I/P
PIC18F14K50
UHF Remote Switch (Jan09), Ultrasonic Cleaner (Aug10),
Ultrasonic Anti-fouling (Sep10), Cricket/Frog (Jun12) Do Not Disturb (May13)
IR-to-UHF Converter (Jul13), UHF-to-IR Converter (Jul13)
PC Birdies *2 chips – $15 pair* (Aug13)
Wideband Oxygen Sensor (Jun-Jul12)
Hi Energy Ignition (Nov/Dec12), Speedo Corrector (Sept13),
Auto Headlight Controller (Oct13) 10A 230V Motor Speed Controller (Feb14)
Projector Speed (Apr11), Vox (Jun11), Ultrasonic Water Tank Level (Sep11),
Quizzical (Oct11) Ultra LD Preamp (Nov11), 10-Channel Remote Control
Receiver (Jun13), Revised 10-Channel Remote Control Receiver (Jul13),
Nicad/NiMH Burp Charger (Mar14)
Garbage Reminder (Jan13), Bellbird (Dec13)
LED Ladybird (Apr13)
6-Digit GPS Clock (May-Jun09), Lab Digital Pot (Jul10)
Semtest (Feb-May12)
Batt Capacity Meter (Jun09), Intelligent Fan Controller (Jul10)
USB Power Monitor (Dec12)
GPS Car Computer (Jan10), GPS Boat Computer (Oct10)
USB MIDIMate (Oct11)
PIC18F27J53-I/SP
USB Data Logger (Dec10-Feb11)
PIC18LF14K22
Digital Spirit Level (Aug11), G-Force Meter (Nov11)
PIC18F1320-I/SO
Intelligent Dimmer (Apr09)
PIC32MX795F512H-80I/PT Maximite (Mar11), miniMaximite (Nov11), Colour Maximite (Sept/Oct12),
Touchscreen Audio Recorder (Jun/Jul 14)
PIC32MX250F128B-50I/SP Micromite (May14) – also includes FREE 47F tantalum capacitor
PIC32MX250F128B-I/SP GPS Tracker (Nov13) Micromite ASCII Video Terminal (Jul14)
PIC32MX470F512H-I/PT Stereo Audio Delay/DSP (Nov13), Stereo Echo/Reverb (Feb 14)
dsPIC33FJ128GP802-I/SP Digital Audio Signal Generator (Mar-May10), Digital Lighting Controller
(Oct-Dec10), SportSync (May11), Digital Audio Delay (Dec11) Level (Sep11)
Quizzical (Oct11), Ultra-LD Preamp (Nov11), LED Musicolor (Nov12)
dsPIC33FJ64MC802-E/P Induction Motor Speed Controller (revised) (Aug13)
dsPIC33FJ128GP306-I/PT CLASSiC DAC (Feb-May 13)
ATTiny861
VVA Thermometer/Thermostat (Mar10), Rudder Position Indicator (Jul11)
ATTiny2313
Remote-Controlled Timer (Aug10)
ATMega48-20AU
RGB LED Strip Driver (May14)
ATMega48
Stereo DAC (Sep-Nov09)
When ordering, be sure to nominate BOTH the micro required AND the project for which it must be programmed.
SPECIALISED COMPONENTS, SHORT-FORM KITS, ETC
MAINS FAN SPEED CONTROLLER - AOT11N60L 600V Mosfet
RGB LED STRIP DRIVER - all SMD parts and BSO150N03 Mosfets,
(May14)
$5.00
does not include micro (see above) nor parts listed as “optional”
(May14)
$20.00
HYBRID BENCH SUPPLY- all SMD parts, 3 x BCM856DS & L2/L3
(May 14)
$45.00
USB/RS232C ADAPTOR
(Apr14)
$7.50
(Mar14)
1 SPD15P10 P-channel logic Mosfet & 1 IPP230N06L3 N-channel logic Mosfet
$7.50
MCP2200 USB/Serial converter IC
NICAD/NIMH BURP CHARGER
10A 230V AC MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
(Feb14)
$45.00
STEREO AUDIO DELAY
(Nov13)
$20.00
GPS Tracker
(Nov13)
$5.00
40A IGBT, 30A Fast Recovery Diode, IR2125 Driver and NTC Thermistor
WM8731 DAC IC and SMD capacitors.
P&P – $10 Per order#
LF-HF UP-CONVERTER SMD parts kit:
(Jun13)
Includes: FXO-HC536R-125 and SA602AD and all SMD passive components
CLASSiC DAC Semi kit
(Feb-May13)
Includes three hard-to-get SMD ICs: CS8416-CZZ, CS4398-CZZ and PLL1708DBQ plus
an accurate 27MHz crystal and ten 3mm blue LEDs with diffused lenses
ISL9V5036P3 IGBT As used in high energy ignition
(Nov/Dec12)
and Jacob’s Ladder
(Feb13)
2.5GHz Frequency Counter (Dec12/Jan13)
LED Kit: 3 x 4-digit blue LED displays
MMC & Choke Kit: ERA-2SM+ Wideband MMC and ADCH-80+ Wideband Choke
ZXCT1009 Current Shunt Monitor IC
As used in DCC Reverse Loop Controller/Block Switch (Pack of 2)
(Oct12)
$15.00
$45.00
$10.00
$15.00
$15.00
$5.00
G-FORCE METER/ACCELEROMETER Short form kit (Aug11/Nov11) $44.50 $40.00
(Oct13)
$20.00
(Aug13) $5.00
Same as LF-UF Upconverter parts but includes 5V relay and BF998 dual-gate Mosfet.
(contains PCB (04108111), programmed PIC micro, MMA8451Q accelerometer chip and 4 Mosfets)
DIGITAL SPIRIT LEVEL Short form kit
(Aug11/Nov11) $44.50
$40.00
(contains PCB (04108111), programmed PIC micro, MMA8451Q accelerometer chip and 4 Mosfets)
IPP230N06L3 N-Channel logic level Mosfets
$7.50
As used in a variety of SILICON CHIP Projects (Pack of 2)
LF-HF Up-converter Omron G5V-1 5V SPDT 5V relay
$2.00
JST CONNECTOR LEAD 3-WAY
(Jan12)
$20.00
JST CONNECTOR LEAD 2-WAY
(Jan12)
MCP16301 SMD regulator IC and 15H inductor
SMD parts for SiDRADIO
RF Probe All SMD parts
“LUMP IN COAX” MINI MIXER SMD parts kit:
(Jun13)
(Jun13)
Includes: 2 x OPA4348AID, 1 x BQ2057CSN, 2 x DMP2215L, 1 x BAT54S, 1 x 0.22Ω shunt
RADIO & HOBBIES ON DVD-ROM (Needs PC & reader to play!)
*All items subect to availability. Prices valid for month of magazine issue only. All prices in Australian dollars and included GST where applicable.
n/a
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$3.45
$62.00
# P&P prices are within Australia. O’seas? Please email for a quote
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07/14
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT:
PUBLISHED:
NOTE: These listings are for the PCB only – not a full kit. If you want a kit, contact the kit suppliers advertising in this issue.
Prices in RED are new lower prices: our cost is less so we pass the savings on to you. Buy now while stocks last!
PCB CODE:
Price:
CHAMP: SINGLE CHIP AUDIO AMPLIFIER
FEB 1994
01102941
$5.00
PRECHAMP: 2-TRANSISTOR PREAMPLIER
JUL 1994
01107941
$5.00
HEAT CONTROLLER
JULY 1998
10307981 $10.00
MICROMITTER FM STEREO TRANSMITTER
DEC 2002
06112021 $10.00
SMART SLAVE FLASH TRIGGER
JUL 2003
13107031 $10.00
12AX7 VALVE AUDIO PREAMPLIFIER
NOV 2003
01111031 $25.00
POOR MAN’S METAL LOCATOR
MAY 2004
04105041 $10.00
BALANCED MICROPHONE PREAMP
AUG 2004
01108041 $25.00
POCKET TENS UNIT
JAN 2006
11101061 $25.00
STUDIO SERIES RC MODULE
APRIL 2006
01104061 $25.00
ULTRASONIC EAVESDROPPER
AUG 2006
01208061 $25.00
RIAA PREAMPLIFIER
AUG 2006
01108061 $25.00
KNOCK DETECTOR
JUNE 2007
05106071 $25.00
SPEAKER PROTECTION AND MUTING MODULE
JULY 2007
01207071 $20.00
LED/LAMP FLASHER
SEP 2008
11009081 $10.00
12V SPEED CONTROLLER/DIMMER (Use Hot Wire Cutter PCB from Dec 2010 [18112101])
USB-SENSING MAINS POWER SWITCH
JAN 2009
10101091 $45.00
DIGITAL AUDIO MILLIVOLTMETER
MAR 2009
04103091 $35.00
INTELLIGENT REMOTE-CONTROLLED DIMMER
APR 2009
10104091 $10.00
INPUT ATTENUATOR FOR DIG. AUDIO M’VOLTMETER
MAY 2009
04205091 $10.00
6-DIGIT GPS CLOCK
MAY 2009
04105091 $30.00
6-DIGIT GPS CLOCK DRIVER
JUNE 2009
07106091 $20.00
UHF ROLLING CODE TX
AUG 2009
15008091 $10.00
UHF ROLLING CODE RECEIVER
AUG 2009
15008092 $45.00
6-DIGIT GPS CLOCK AUTODIM ADD-ON
SEPT 2009
04208091
$5.00
STEREO DAC BALANCED OUTPUT BOARD
JAN 2010
01101101 $25.00
DIGITAL INSULATION METER
JUN 2010
04106101 $25.00
ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR REFORMER
AUG 2010
04108101 $40.00
ULTRASONIC ANTI-FOULING FOR BOATS
SEP 2010
04109101 $25.00
HEARING LOOP RECEIVER
SEP 2010
01209101 $25.00
S/PDIF/COAX TO TOSLINK CONVERTER
OCT 2010
01210101 $10.00
TOSLINK TO S/PDIF/COAX CONVERTER
OCT 2010
01210102 $10.00
DIGITAL LIGHTING CONTROLLER MASTER UNIT
OCT 2010
16110101 $10.00
DIGITAL LIGHTING CONTROLLER SLAVE UNIT
OCT 2010
16110102 $25.00
HEARING LOOP TESTER/LEVEL METER
NOV 2010
01111101 $25.00
UNIVERSAL USB DATA LOGGER
DEC 2010
04112101 $25.00
HOT WIRE CUTTER CONTROLLER
DEC 2010
18112101 $10.00
433MHZ SNIFFER
JAN 2011
06101111 $10.00
CRANIAL ELECTRICAL STIMULATION
JAN 2011
99101111 $25.00
HEARING LOOP SIGNAL CONDITIONER
JAN 2011
01101111 $25.00
LED DAZZLER
FEB 2011
16102111 $15.00
12/24V 3-STAGE MPPT SOLAR CHARGER
FEB 2011
14102111 $15.00
SIMPLE CHEAP 433MHZ LOCATOR
FEB 2011
06102111
$5.00
THE MAXIMITE
MAR 2011
06103111 $15.00
UNIVERSAL VOLTAGE REGULATOR
MAR 2011
18103111 $10.00
12V 20-120W SOLAR PANEL SIMULATOR
MAR 2011
04103111 $10.00
MICROPHONE NECK LOOP COUPLER
MAR 2011
01209101 $25.00
PORTABLE STEREO HEADPHONE AMP
APRIL 2011
01104111 $10.00
CHEAP 100V SPEAKER/LINE CHECKER
APRIL 2011
04104111 $10.00
PROJECTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
APRIL 2011
13104111 $10.00
SPORTSYNC AUDIO DELAY
MAY 2011
01105111 $30.00
100W DC-DC CONVERTER
MAY 2011
11105111 $15.00
PHONE LINE POLARITY CHECKER
MAY 2011
12105111 $10.00
20A 12/24V DC MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER MK2
JUNE 2011
11106111 $15.00
USB STEREO RECORD/PLAYBACK
JUNE 2011
07106111 $20.00
VERSATIMER/SWITCH
JUNE 2011
19106111 $25.00
USB BREAKOUT BOX
JUNE 2011
04106111 $10.00
ULTRA-LD MK3 200W AMP MODULE
JULY 2011
01107111 $25.00
PORTABLE LIGHTNING DETECTOR
JULY 2011
04107111 $15.00
RUDDER INDICATOR FOR POWER BOATS (4 PCBs)
JULY 2011
20107111-4 $80 per set
VOX
JULY 2011
01207111 $20.00
ELECTRONIC STETHOSCOPE
AUG 2011
01108111 $10.00
DIGITAL SPIRIT LEVEL/INCLINOMETER
AUG 2011
04108111 $10.00
ULTRASONIC WATER TANK METER
SEP 2011
04109111 $15.00
ULTRA-LD MK2 AMPLIFIER UPGRADE
SEP 2011
01209111
$5.00
ULTRA-LD MK3 AMPLIFIER POWER SUPPLY
SEP 2011
01109111 $25.00
HIFI STEREO HEADPHONE AMPLIFIER
SEP 2011
01309111 $20.00
GPS FREQUENCY REFERENCE (IMPROVED)
SEP 2011
04103073 $15.00
GPS FREQUENCY REFERENCE DISPLAY (B)
SEP 2011
04103072 $15.00
HEARING LOOP RECEIVER/NECK COUPLER
SEP 2011
01209101 $10.00
DIGITAL LIGHTING CONTROLLER LED SLAVE
OCT 2011
16110111 $30.00
USB MIDIMATE
OCT 2011
23110111 $25.00
QUIZZICAL QUIZ GAME
OCT 2011
08110111 $25.00
ULTRA-LD MK3 PREAMP & REMOTE VOL CONTROL
NOV 2011
01111111 $30.00
ULTRA-LD MK3 INPUT SWITCHING MODULE
NOV 2011
01111112 $20.00
ULTRA-LD MK3 SWITCH MODULE
NOV 2011
01111113 $10.00
ZENER DIODE TESTER
NOV 2011
04111111 $20.00
MINIMAXIMITE
NOV 2011
07111111 $10.00
ADJUSTABLE REGULATED POWER SUPPLY
DEC 2011
18112111
$5.00
DIGITAL AUDIO DELAY
DEC 2011
01212111 $25.00
DIGITAL AUDIO DELAY Front & Rear Panels
DEC 2011
01212112/3 $20 per set
AM RADIO
JAN 2012
06101121 $10.00
STEREO AUDIO COMPRESSOR
JAN 2012
01201121 $30.00
STEREO AUDIO COMPRESSOR FRONT & REAR PANELS
JAN 2012
0120112P1/2 $20.00
3-INPUT AUDIO SELECTOR (SET OF 2 BOARDS)
JAN 2012
01101121/2 $30 per set
CRYSTAL DAC
FEB 2012
01102121 $20.00
SWITCHING REGULATOR
FEB 2012
18102121
$5.00
SEMTEST LOWER BOARD
MAR 2012
04103121 $40.00
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT:
PUBLISHED:
PCB CODE:
Price:
SEMTEST UPPER BOARD
MAR 2012
04103122
$40.00
SEMTEST FRONT PANEL
MAR 2012
04103123
$75.00
INTERPLANETARY VOICE
MAR 2012
08102121
$10.00
12/24V 3-STAGE MPPT SOLAR CHARGER REV.A
MAR 2012
14102112
$20.00
SOFT START SUPPRESSOR
APR 2012
10104121
$10.00
RESISTANCE DECADE BOX
APR 2012
04104121
$20.00
RESISTANCE DECADE BOX PANEL/LID
APR 2012
04104122
$20.00
1.5kW INDUCTION MOTOR SPEED CONT. (New V2 PCB) APR (DEC) 2012 10105122
$35.00
HIGH TEMPERATURE THERMOMETER MAIN PCB
MAY 2012
21105121
$30.00
HIGH TEMPERATURE THERMOMETER Front & Rear Panels MAY 2012
21105122/3 $20 per set
MIX-IT! 4 CHANNEL MIXER
JUNE 2012
01106121
$20.00
PIC/AVR PROGRAMMING ADAPTOR BOARD
JUNE 2012
24105121
$30.00
CRAZY CRICKET/FREAKY FROG
JUNE 2012
08109121
$10.00
CAPACITANCE DECADE BOX
JULY 2012
04106121
$20.00
CAPACITANCE DECADE BOX PANEL/LID
JULY 2012
04106122
$20.00
WIDEBAND OXYGEN CONTROLLER MK2
JULY 2012
05106121
$20.00
WIDEBAND OXYGEN CONTROLLER MK2 DISPLAY BOARD JULY 2012
05106122
$10.00
SOFT STARTER FOR POWER TOOLS
JULY 2012
10107121
$10.00
DRIVEWAY SENTRY MK2
AUG 2012
03107121
$15.00
MAINS TIMER
AUG 2012
10108121
$10.00
CURRENT ADAPTOR FOR SCOPES AND DMMS
AUG 2012
04108121
$20.00
USB VIRTUAL INSTRUMENT INTERFACE
SEPT 2012
24109121
$25.00
USB VIRTUAL INSTRUMENT INT. FRONT PANEL
SEPT 2012
24109122
$25.00
BARKING DOG BLASTER
SEPT 2012
25108121
$20.00
COLOUR MAXIMITE
SEPT 2012
07109121
$20.00
SOUND EFFECTS GENERATOR
SEPT 2012
09109121
$10.00
NICK-OFF PROXIMITY ALARM
OCT 2012
03110121
$5.00
DCC REVERSE LOOP CONTROLLER
OCT 2012
09110121
$10.00
LED MUSICOLOUR
NOV 2012
16110121
$25.00
LED MUSICOLOUR Front & Rear Panels
NOV 2012
16110121
$20 per set
CLASSIC-D CLASS D AMPLIFIER MODULE
NOV 2012
01108121
$30.00
CLASSIC-D 2 CHANNEL SPEAKER PROTECTOR
NOV 2012
01108122
$10.00
HIGH ENERGY ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM
DEC 2012
05110121
$10.00
USB POWER MONITOR
DEC 2012
04109121
$10.00
1.5kW INDUCTION MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER (NEW V2 PCB)
DEC 2012 10105122
$35.00
THE CHAMPION PREAMP and 7W AUDIO AMP (one PCB) JAN 2013
01109121/2 $10.00
GARBAGE/RECYCLING BIN REMINDER
JAN 2013
19111121
$10.00
2.5GHz DIGITAL FREQUENCY METER – MAIN BOARD
JAN 2013
04111121
$35.00
2.5GHz DIGITAL FREQUENCY METER – DISPLAY BOARD
JAN 2013
04111122
$15.00
2.5GHz DIGITAL FREQUENCY METER – FRONT PANEL
JAN 2013
04111123
$45.00
SEISMOGRAPH MK2
FEB 2013
21102131
$20.00
MOBILE PHONE RING EXTENDER
FEB 2013
12110121
$10.00
GPS 1PPS TIMEBASE
FEB 2013
04103131
$10.00
LED TORCH DRIVER
MAR 2013
16102131
$5.00
CLASSiC DAC MAIN PCB
APR 2013 01102131
$30.00
CLASSiC DAC FRONT & REAR PANEL PCBs
APR 2013 01102132/3 $25.00
GPS USB TIMEBASE
APR 2013 04104131
$15.00
LED LADYBIRD
APR 2013 08103131
$5.00
CLASSiC-D 12V to ±35V DC/DC CONVERTER
MAY 2013 11104131
$15.00
DO NOT DISTURB
MAY 2013 12104131 $10.00
LF/HF UP-CONVERTER
JUN 2013 07106131 $10.00
10-CHANNEL REMOTE CONTROL RECEIVER
JUN 2013 15106131
$15.00
IR-TO-455MHZ UHF TRANSCEIVER
JUN 2013 15106132
$7.50
“LUMP IN COAX” PORTABLE MIXER
JUN 2013
01106131 $15.00
L’IL PULSER MKII TRAIN CONTROLLER
JULY 2013
09107131
$15.00
L’IL PULSER MKII FRONT & REAR PANELS
JULY 2013
09107132/3 $20.00/set
REVISED 10 CHANNEL REMOTE CONTROL RECEIVER
JULY 2013
15106133
$15.00
INFRARED TO UHF CONVERTER
JULY 2013
15107131
$5.00
UHF TO INFRARED CONVERTER
JULY 2013
15107132
$10.00
IPOD CHARGER
AUG 2013
14108131
$5.00
PC BIRDIES
AUG 2013
08104131
$10.00
RF DETECTOR PROBE FOR DMMs
AUG 2013
04107131
$10.00
BATTERY LIFESAVER
SEPT 2013
11108131
$4.00
SPEEDO CORRECTOR
SEPT 2013
05109131
$10.00
SiDRADIO (INTEGRATED SDR) Main PCB
OCT 2013
06109131
$30.00
SiDRADIO (INTEGRATED SDR) Front & Rear Panels
OCT 2013
06109132/3 $25.00/set
TINY TIM AMPLIFIER (same PCB as Headphone Amp [Sept11])
OCT 2013
01309111
$20.00
AUTO CAR HEADLIGHT CONTROLLER
OCT 2013
03111131
$10.00
GPS TRACKER
NOV 2013
05112131
$15.00
STEREO AUDIO DELAY/DSP
NOV 2013
01110131
$15.00
BELLBIRD
DEC 2013
08112131
$10.00
PORTAPAL-D MAIN BOARDS
DEC 2013
01111131-3 $35.00/set
(for CLASSiC-D Amp board and CLASSiC-D DC/DC Converter board refer above [Nov 2012/May 2013])
LED PARTY STROBE (also for Hot Wire Cutter [Dec 2010]) JAN 2014
16101141
$7.50
BASS EXTENDER Mk2
LI’L PULSER Mk2 Revised
10A 230VAC MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
NICAD/NIMH BURP CHARGER
RUBIDIUM FREQ. STANDARD BREAKOUT BOARD
USB/RS232C ADAPTOR
MAINS FAN SPEED CONTROLLER
RGB LED STRIP DRIVER
HYBRID BENCH SUPPLY
2-WAY PASSIVE LOUDSPEAKER CROSSOVER
NEW THIS MONTH:
TOUCHSCREEN AUDIO RECORDER
THRESHOLD VOLTAGE SWITCH
MICROMITE ASCII VIDEO TERMINAL
FREQUENCY COUNTER ADD-ON
JAN 2014
JAN 2014
FEB 2014
MAR 2014
APR 2014
APR 2014
MAY 2014
MAY 2014
MAY 2014
JUN 2014
JULY 2014
JULY 2014
JULY 2014
JULY 2014
01112131
09107134
10102141
14103141
04105141
07103141
10104141
16105141
18104141
01205141
01105141 $12.50
99106141 $10.00
24107141 $7.50
04105141a/b $15.00
$15.00
$15.00
$12.50
$15.00
$10.00
$5.00
$10.00
$10.00
$20.00
$20.00
Vintage Radio
By Rodney Champness, VK3UG
The upmarket 1950 HMV
R53A radiogram
For many well-off families, an expensive
radiogram was the focal point of the
family lounge room in the era from the
late 1920s up until the late 1960s. It not
only provided the entertainment but was
also an impressive piece of furniture.
R
ADIOGRAMS were first developed in the late 1920s and were
produced in various formats up until
the 1960s when TV took over as the
main source of family entertainment.
During that time, they evolved from
very basic units with a record player
on top of the cabinet to units that had
92 Silicon Chip
automatic record changers alongside
the radio section.
Some of the very latest units also included a TV set and/or a tape recorder
and some even had a cocktail section
for good measure!
Of course, not all radiograms were
created equal and the quality of the
cabinets varied considerably. Some
were impressive units made of solid
high-quality timber, with timber veneers where necessary. These sets
were quite imposing and were heavy
but there were also many cabinets that
were built to a price and were much
lighter.
The radio chassis used also varied
considerably in quality. Most units
used a cheap and cheerful bog-standard 5-valve mantel receiver chassis
driving a large speaker mounted on
a baffle board. These sets often had a
rather restricted audio frequency range,
otherwise hum would have been quite
obvious due to minimal high-tension
supply ripple filtering and inadequate
(or non-existent) shielding of sensitive
audio leads.
By contrast, the more expensive
top-of-the-line radiograms used a
better-engineered chassis designed to
give high-quality sound and capable
of driving the speaker to high volume.
These sets also generally had better
RF sensitivity and stability than their
cheaper counterparts.
This was achieved by increasing
the filtering on the HT (high-tension)
line, adequate shielding of critical
leads and higher-quality audio output
transformers. The audio amplifier was
also beefed up, often by using a pushpull audio output stage.
Two Australian-made radiograms
that were excellent performers were
the STC A8551 from 1955 (featured
in the January 2010 issue of SILICON
CHIP) and the HMV R53A which came
onto the market in 1950. The R53A described here had quite a few problems
when it was obtained by its owner and
was passed on to the author so that the
chassis could be restored.
HMV R53A radiogram
Basically, the owner wanted to be
sure that the chassis could be repaired
before he undertook the cabinet restoration. As shown in the photos, the
R53A is quite a large unit, with the
radio chassis and the record changer
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the HMV R53A is a 6-valve superhet design
covering both the AM broadcast & shortwave
bands. Valve V1 is the converter and is followed by
IF amplifier/detector stage V2 and then a 3-stage
audio amplifier based on V3-V5. V6 (5Y3-GT) is the
rectifier. Note that the HT to the 807 audio output
valve is supplied via a separate filter choke (CK2).
mounted side-by-side in separate
compartments. These compartments
are accessed by opening separate doors
which hinge down.
It’s interesting to note that the same
chassis was also used in a variant
which had a top-opening lid to gain
access to the controls and the record
changer. This was probably a downmarket version as the cabinet is not
as large and is somewhat lighter than
the R53A’s.
As it came to me, the R53A radiogram featured here was 64 years old.
Its chassis was covered in dust and
when I removed it, I could find only
one resistor and one capacitor that had
been previously replaced, along with a
section of the dial cord. However, the
original record changer had obviously
proved to be less than reliable and had
been replaced by a more modern BSR
unit at some time in the past.
Circuit details
Fig.1 shows the circuit details of
the HMV R53A. It’s a 6-valve superhet design and covers the AM broadsiliconchip.com.au
cast band (nominally 540-1600kHz)
plus the shortwave band from 618MHz. The broadcast band tuning
range specified is what was allocated
in the 1940s and 1950s but in practice,
the R53A tunes a slightly wider range
of frequencies from 530-1660kHz.
As shown in Fig.1, the antenna coil’s
primary windings are in series with
each other, with the shortwave coil
acting as a low-value loading coil for
the antenna.
The broadcast coil primary winding
resonates below the broadcast band
due to the combination of L1 & C1.
This gives improved performance at
the low-frequency end of the band.
The 3pF capacitor (C2) between the
primary and secondary windings (L1
& L2) improves the performance at the
high-frequency end of the broadcast
band.
Unlike the broadcast-band coils,
the shortwave coils (L5 & L6) do not
use any elaborate coupling methods.
That’s because any antenna likely to
be employed would have sufficient
length to be resonant on some portion
of the shortwave band. L5 is in series
with L1 and although L1 will act as an
RF choke on shortwave, C1 (100pF)
acts as a low-impedance path to earth
for the ‘earthy’ side of L5. This was
a neat trick that was used by many
manufacturers; it worked well and
saved a switch section.
The antenna coils are switched
as appropriate in the grid circuit of
converter valve V1, depending on
the band selected. Alternatively, V1’s
grid is shorted to chassis when the set
is switched to ‘Gram’, to prevent RF
signals breaking through.
R4 and C9 ensure that no high
voltages are present in the oscillator’s
tuned circuits. This method was used
by many manufacturers but others
have the oscillator plate current flowing through the feedback winding.
Either method works well but you do
have to be aware that high voltages are
present in the tuned circuits of some
oscillator stages.
The converter stage is neutralised
using a small ‘gimmick’ capacitor
between the oscillator grid and the
July 2014 93
These two views show the chassis before and after restoration. Note the insulated
cap (red) on the top of the 807 output valve. This is the plate connection and
must not be touched due to the shock hazard.
signal input grid. This ‘gimmick’ capacitor was made using about 20mm
of insulated bell wire.
The 457.5kHz IF (intermediate
frequency) appears at V1’s plate and
is fed to the primary winding of IF
transformer IFT1. It also goes to a section of 4-position switch S1, which is
the band change and ‘Gram’ selector
switch.
In positions 1 & 2, the IF transformer
is coupled in the conventional manner.
94 Silicon Chip
However, when S1 is in position 3,
resistor R10 is switched across IFT1’s
primary while R6 is switched across
the secondary winding. Capacitor C13
is also connected between V1’s plate
and V2’s grid.
These switched parts lower the Q of
the tuned circuits and, along with the
heavy top-coupling due to C13, give
a wide frequency response with a dip
in the middle. IFT2 (which follows
V2) also has a wide response and this
means that signals out to about 10kHz
are amplified with little attenuation of
the higher audio frequencies.
V2, a 6N8, amplifies the IF signal
and, like the converter, this stage is
also neutralised. This is done by C17
in conjunction with C15. The signal at
the output of IFT2 is fed to the detector diode in V2. The resulting audio
signal is then fed to another section
of switch S1 which selects the audio
signal from either the radio or the
record changer and feeds it to a 4-pin
socket. The volume control is wired to
this socket and its output is then fed
back via this socket to the input of V3,
another 6N8.
It’s difficult to understand why the
volume control was attached via a
plug and cable to the chassis and not
mounted on the front of the chassis
like the other controls. In this case,
the volume control is mounted on a
side panel of the radiogram, possibly
so that it could be accessed with the
door to the radio section closed.
V3 amplifies the volume control
signal and in turn drives separate
bass and treble control networks. The
resulting signal then goes to V4, anoth
er 6N8, which further amplifies the
signal before feeding it via C44 to the
grid of an 807 output valve (V5).
V5 again amplifies the audio signal
and then feeds it via a substantial audio transformer to a 12-inch (~30cm)
loudspeaker. This circuit includes
voice-coil negative feedback which is
fed back to the cathode circuit of V4.
Note that the 807 is not bypassed at the
screen but via a 100Ω resistor (R36).
Some valves, including the 807, can
be unstable if they are not bypassed
in this manner.
The power supply is based on fullwave rectifier V6 (5Y3-GT) and is quite
conventional. The HT (high tension)
line has two filter chokes (CK1 & CK2),
with CK2 feeding just the 807 output
valve (V5) and CK1 feeding HT to the
remainder of the receiver. Note that
back bias is applied from the top of
resistor R9 to the AGC diode in V3
and to the grids of V1 & V2.
Conventional delayed AGC is used
with -2V of delay. As a result, both V1
& V2 are biased at -2V, as is the AGC
diode in V3. No additional bias is developed until the IF signal at the plate
of the AGC diode exceeds 2V peak.
Restoring the chassis
Removing the R53A’s chassis from
siliconchip.com.au
The two tone controls, the tuning control and the bandswitch are mounted just below the dial, while the volume
control is mounted on a side-panel of the cabinet.
the cabinet is quite straightforward.
First, the plywood sheet covering the
back of the receiver is removed, then
the knobs are removed by pulling
them off their spindles. The volume
control is then removed by unplugging
its cable from the socket on the top of
the chassis, then undoing the three
screws which secure it to the side of
the chassis.
Next, the four screws underneath
the chassis shelf are removed and
various leads at the back of the chassis disconnected (ie, antenna/earth
leads, speaker lead, record changer
leads, etc). The ‘on’ light lead to the
bottom of the cabinet must also be
disconnected. This entire procedure
takes just few minutes.
Once it was out of the cabinet,
the chassis was carefully dusted using a paintbrush and cleaned with a
kerosene-soaked rag. This also worked
wonders on the black sealing material
used on the transformers. The cabinet
was then brushed down and a damp
sponge used to remove any ingrained
dust from the woodwork.
There was no corrosion to any extent
and the chassis looked quite presentable. This old HMV R53A has obviously been stored in a dry environment
to still be in such condition.
As is my usual practice, my next
step was to remove all the valves and
wash them in warm soapy water. The
miniature valves were simply dunked
in the water and the glass envelopes
rubbed clean. However, you have to be
careful not to remove the type markings, as these can easily be rubbed off.
These valves were then rinsed under
clean water and allowed to dry.
siliconchip.com.au
The original record changer had obviously given trouble
because it had been swapped out for this more-modern
BSR unit. It sits on a shelf that slides out of the cabinet.
Valves like the 5Y3GT and the
807 have Bakelite bases and have to
be treated more carefully. For these
types, the valves were simply turned
upside-down and the envelopes carefully washed while taking not get any
water into the bases. They were then
rinsed with clean water and left to dry
upside-down.
all the movable controls were lubricated using either light machine oil or
Inox® lubricant. These controls then
all worked smoothly and were free of
mechanical noise. The original 2-core
power lead was also replaced with a
securely anchored 3-core lead so that
the chassis could be safely earthed.
Replacing faulty parts
It was now time for a smoke test
(well, actually I hoped that there
wouldn’t be any smoke).
First, the loudspeaker was removed
from its baffle inside the cabinet and
connected to the receiver, along with
an antenna and earth. The HT line was
then checked for any shorts to chassis,
after which the set was connected to
mains power and switched on with
the multimeter now monitoring the
HT voltage.
It was all something of an anti-climax because the HT voltage rose and
settled down as expected. Because the
5Y3-GT heats up more quickly than the
other valves in the set, the HT initially
rises up to around 400V before settling
down to about 290V out of the rectifier
when the other valves warm up. As
expected, the HT is somewhat lower
when measured at the filter capacitors
following the two filter chokes.
Once the valves had warmed up,
the set then burst into operation and
it sounded quite good except that hum
was evident in the audio. The cause
wasn’t hard to find – I had replaced
filter capacitor C31 with a 10µF unit
which was inadequate for this set.
I tried replacing this capacitor with
the only 16µF capacitor I had but the
hum was still quite evident. I then
The next job was to replace all the
electrolytic capacitors and any paper
capacitors that were excessively leaky.
The paper capacitors were tested for
leakage using a high-voltage insulation tester. This tester was then set to
its 1000V range and used to check the
insulation of the power transformer.
In this case, the resistance from the
mains winding to earth was found to
be in excess of 100MΩ, which is quite
satisfactory.
In order to maintain the original
appearance, the faulty electrolytic capacitors on the top of the chassis were
left in place but were disconnected
from the circuit. New capacitors were
then fitted in place under the chassis.
The most critical capacitor is the one
connected to the 5Y3GT as this rectifier doesn’t ‘like’ high surge currents
flowing through it. In this case, C31
was initially replaced with a 10µF
525V capacitor (see below).
The two components (one resistor and one capacitor) that had been
replaced earlier in the set’s life had
failed again and so new parts were
substituted for these. A couple of other
resistors were also found to be well out
of tolerance and were also replaced.
That done, the dial mechanism and
Getting it going
July 2014 95
tom coupling instead, the frequency
shift would have been in the opposite
direction. This means that the best
method of maintaining the same centre
frequency is to have both top and bottom coupling between the two tuned
circuits.
In the end, by carefully adjusting the
IF alignment, I was able to minimise
this effect and get close to a common
passband frequency centre for the local
and distance switch positions.
Record changer repairs
All the parts under the chassis of the HMV R53A are readily accessible. This
view shows the chassis prior to restoration – some parts were replaced to get the
set going, while the 2-core mains cable was later replaced with a 3-core cable so
that the chassis could be earthed.
installed a 22µF capacitor across C12
but it was still not enough so I decided
to try decoupling the plate and screen
leads to V3. This involved installing a
4.7µF capacitor between the junction
of R20 & R21 and chassis, plus a 10kΩ
resistor from R20/R21 to C12.
That finally reduced the hum to
quite a low level, such that it was just
audible with my ear near the speaker
cone and with the volume control
turned right down.
The set goes dead
The hum problem had no sooner
been solved when the set suddenly
went dead. There was no audio so
there was clearly something wrong
with the audio amplifier stage.
A few quick checks showed that
while there was plenty of voltage on
the plate and screen of the 807 output
valve, there was no voltage drop across
its cathode resistor. Substituting another 807 cured the problem, so that
problem was easily solved.
By the way, the 807 valve is a
moderately-large 5-pin valve that was
originally designed for use in mediumsized communications transmitters
during the 1940s. And here a word
of warning: if a set uses an 807 and
there is no protective top cap cover
on the connector, don’t be tempted to
put your finger on it while the set is
operating (ie, while power is applied).
This is the plate terminal, not the grid,
96 Silicon Chip
and you will get a nasty high-voltage
shock if you do.
Although the set was quite sensitive,
further checks revealed that very little AGC voltage was being developed
between the junction of R7 & R11 and
the chassis. I had expected around 10V
of AGC when the set was tuned to a
local broadcast station but I was only
getting about 2.5V.
I checked the voltages around valves
V1 & V2 and they appeared normal so
I tried substituting a new 6N8 for V2
and the performance improved quite
noticeably. The AGC voltage also shot
up to somewhere near the expected
level. The chassis was then left on
test for quite a few hours to make sure
there were no further problems lurking
in the background.
Checking the alignment
The next step was to check the
alignment. First, I tried tweaking the
antenna trimmers on both the broadcast and shortwave bands but couldn’t
improve the performance, so the original settings were retained. However,
when I checked the IF amplifier, I
found that the centre of the IF passband changed by about 4kHz when I
switched S1 between the distant and
local positions.
This shift in the passband centre is
caused by the top coupling between
the two tuned circuits in the first IF
transformer. If the set had used bot-
Observing the operation of a record
changer mechanism isn’t normally an
easy job. However, back in the October
2000 issue of SILICON CHIP, I described
a home-made servicing aid which allowed a changer to sit up on 300mmhigh dowels, so that the mechanism
could be observed during operation.
As shown in one of the photos, I also
used this device when I overhauled
the R53A’s changer. As mentioned, the
original changer had obviously given
trouble because it had been replaced
with a more-modern BSR unit.
The biggest problem with this
changer turned out to be the pick-up
cartridge – it simply had no output.
Unfortunately, a direct replacement is
now almost impossible to obtain and
after looking through many catalogs,
the only generic pick-up that was suitable was listed by WES Components
of Ashfield in Sydney.
It wasn’t a drop-in replacement,
however, and the tone-arm mounting
had to be carefully modified so that it
could be installed properly. It wasn’t a
difficult job but it did take more time
than expected.
Stylus pressure
One thing that’s important with the
pick-up is to correctly adjust the stylus
pressure. Up-market hifi turntables
may specify just 1.5g to 3g of stylus
pressure, whereas most record changers intended for the broad consumer
market have stylus pressures of 5-7g.
If more than this is required to get the
tone-arm to track the record properly,
then the sliding surfaces in the mechanism probably need lubricating.
The downward stylus pressure is
controlled by either a spring at the
vertical pivot point of the tone-arm
or, in some cases, the weight has to
be adjusted at the head. In this case,
the new pick-up was lighter than the
original, so I had to add some weight
siliconchip.com.au
The record changer was serviced by
sitting it on top of this homemade jig.
Now that the radio and record changer have been repaired, the next job is the
cabinet restoration. One of the bottom doors is missing and will have to be made.
into the shell where the cartridge is
located. Some shells already have
weights installed but if not, metal
washers can sometimes be used to
increase the pressure on the stylus.
I didn’t have a stylus pressure gauge,
so I used our digital kitchen scales to
get the weight correct. These scales can
measure down to 1g, which is good
enough for this job.
Having set the stylus pressure, I then
cleaned any old congealed grease off
various surfaces and applied fresh,
light grease in its place. The motor
bearing and various pulley bearings
were then oiled. This was relatively
straightforward although I did have
to dismantle the motor to gain access
to its bearings. In fact, this should be
done every few years as these motors
can seize up if they are not lubricated
and this particular unit was very close
to that point.
The various other adjustments on
the changer were all spot on. The
stylus drop-in point was correct, the
speed change mechanism worked
well and the record dropping and cutout mechanisms all worked as they
should. BSR record changers were
relatively simple compared to some
other brands and it is rare for them to
have any major problems.
Summary
For its time (circa 1950), this is one
of the best radiograms I have ever
worked on. The receiver section is
quite sensitive, the dual-bandwidth
IF amplifier works well, the audio
output is more than adequate and the
audio bandwidth and clarity are excellent. And once the owner finishes the
cabinet restoration, the old HMV R53A
will look great too.
The chassis is also easy to work on
and is well laid out, with most components easily accessible. HMV used lots
of plastic-sheathed shielded audio and
RF cables which were only earthed at
one end to prevent induced hum from
the heater circuits.
One very worthwhile feature is
a ‘rollover cage’ over the top of the
chassis. This makes it easy to tip the
set over for servicing without risking
damage to fragile parts such as valves.
The circuitry also shows considerable attention to detail and includes
neutralised IF amplifier and converter
stages to ensure stability. It certainly
ticks most of the boxes for good design. The chassis was also obviously
designed to accommodate a number of
sets of the era as there is an extra cutout for an additional IF transformer
and the power transformer is mounted
on a plate at one end of the chassis.
In fact, I have a HMV model 268
receiver which started life as a vibrator-powered set but was converted
to 230VAC operation as described in
May 2000. Its chassis layout is almost
identical to the R53A’s, so HMV had
developed a layout that worked well
for many quite different models.
If you have the room and want to
enjoy the sound from one of the better early radiograms you couldn’t go
past the HMV R53A. And if it had
been fitted with a dual-cone speaker
it probably would have sounded even
SC
better than it already does.
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July 2014 97
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Send your email to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
Why is amplifier
clipping a problem?
I just read the article on the Majestic
loudspeaker in the June 2014 issue and
it looks very good. One thing I would
like to ask about is the statement on
page 31 that even a relatively small
amplifier can damage a high power
speaker if the amplifier is clipping
badly. Yet on page 25 you show the
speaker being driven by a square wave
signal, which is pretty much what a
clipping amplifier would produce.
One can only presume that this test
signal is at a low level. Leaving aside
tweeters and the excessive harmonics that would be fed to them, just
why are woofers, at least, vulnerable
to clipping? After all, if an amplifier
can produce a 100W sinewave without
clipping and a speaker can thermally
tolerate 300W continuously, if the amplifier then outputs a square wave at
the same peak voltage as before, then it
will deliver exactly double the power
to the speaker. What is the danger here?
(G. P., Hampton Park, Vic).
• The square-wave signal shown on
the scope is of quite a low amplitude,
at level of about 1W or so.
While an amplifier may only deliver
double its nominal power output when
driven into hard clipping, it can blow
a speaker which is rated to handle the
nominal output on normal music signals. Such ratings are quite short term
and delivering a much bigger burst can
damage the speaker. It probably won’t
burn out the voice coil but it might
well lead to a loose turn on the voice
coil which will result in “poling” and
make the speaker unlistenable.
Alternatively, a big burst of lowfrequency signal could conceivably
lead to the voice coil jumping out of
the gap and again cause it to “pole”.
On the other hand, if you over-drive
a 100W amplifier into a speaker rated
to handle 300W, then it should not be
a problem.
Query on
LED Party Flash
Your circuit for this LED Party
Flash strobe in the January 2014 issue
does not appear to have any constantcurrent drive to the LED array. I had
always thought that LEDs needed
to be driven with some form of current limit as they are a temperature
variable constant voltage device. (I. T,
Duncraig, WA).
• You are right in that LEDs and LED
arrays generally need some form of
current limiting. In this case, it is the
impedance of the supply filter capacitor and the transformer which limits
LED current. You can see this from
the scope grab; when the LED turns
on the supply filter capacitor quickly
discharges and never fully recharges
again until the LED switches off.
It’s possibly a good idea to have
some other form of current limiting
in the circuit to limit the peak LED
current, especially at the moment of
switch on, which is why the PCB has
provision for a 5W resistor to be connected in series with the load. A resistor with a value of a couple of ohms
would be about right. This should have
little effect on the brightness but waste
a little power.
LEDs don’t operate with a constant
voltage as such; it’s just that they have
a sharp knee like other diodes, ie,
beyond a threshold, a small change
in voltage causes a large change in
current flow. But they also have some
intrinsic resistance. That is what we’re
taking advantage of in this case, limit-
Connecting The Tiny Tim Amplifier To A TV Set
I plan to build the Tiny Tim stereo
amplifier (SILICON CHIP, October &
December 2013, January 2014). As
I intend to use it with my flat-panel
TV, would I be connecting the TV
to the Tiny Tim unit via the TV’s
headphone jack? Assuming that the
signal from the TV’s headphone jack
is analog, I would then have no need
to install the DAC (digital-to-analog
converter) into the Tiny Tim unit.
I also note that in part 2 in December 2013, Fig.6 shows that a tinplate shield is to be affixed between
inductors L3 & L4 on the main PCB
(code 01309111) and instructions
are given in the text regarding its
installation.
However, a PCB coded 01106111
98 Silicon Chip
is depicted in the photographs in
all three articles and with all the
components installed, there is no
tin-plate shield visible between
inductors L3 & L4. So, is the tinplate shield only required for the
01309111 PCB, or is it not required
at all on either board? (C. B., Coffs
Harbour, NSW).
• It depends on the TV but in many
cases you can use the headphone
output to drive an external amplifier. Some headphone outputs may
require a low-impedance load to
operate correctly but most don’t. If
there is a problem, you could connect a resistor (say 100Ω 1W) across
the output to simulate a headphone
load but we would try it without first.
In fact, we recently connected
the Compact 12V Stereo Amplifier (SILICON CHIP, May 2010) to a
Blaupunkt TV via the headphone
output using a 3.5mm stereo plug to
2 x RCA cable and it worked well.
It allowed the volume to be altered
using the remote.
The tin-plate shield isn’t a terribly critical component and as
you noticed, it wasn’t present on
the original prototype PCB that we
used. It’s up to you whether you fit
it; it’s supposed to increase channel
separation and reduce distortion by
preventing the magnetic fields of the
two inductors from interacting but
the difference is marginal. On the
other hand, it isn’t difficult to fit.
siliconchip.com.au
Can The Barking Dog Blaster Scare Kangaroos?
With reference to your article on
the Barking Dog Blaster (SILICON
CHIP, September & October 2012),
I wonder if you have considered
further applications for this type of
thing. I’m looking at animal repellers
for 4WD vehicles and am mainly
thinking of kangaroo avoidance.
Whilst there are some commercial
ultrasonic units available they seem
to be of questionable value. Internet
research would have it that they
are only effective on wild animals
which are not used to the sound
whereas tame animals simply ignore
the noise.
They also only work at speeds
under about 80km/h, presumably
ing the peak current to a reasonable
value from what is (at least briefly) a
voltage source.
WAV files sound
better than MP3
Why did you choose to save the
audio files in the “Touch-Screen
Digital Audio Recorder” now being
presented as “.wav” files rather than
what I would have thought was the
more commonly used “.mp3” format?
Is the unit’s firmware upgradeable,
as needed and if so, does the possibility exist to upgrade it to perhaps
handle either “.wav”, “.mp3” or both,
as user options when configuring the
unit or does the CODEC unit only
come with “.wav” capability? (P. M.,
Karabar, NSW).
• The use of WAV files comes down
to three things: better audio quality,
simpler/cheaper circuitry and less
processing required.
There have been a number of occasions when we have been playing
MP3 files in the laboratory (due to
not having anything better handy) and
Leo Simpson has walked in and said
“that sounds awful” – and these were
originally very good quality recordings. The files were converted from CD
to MP3 at quite a high bit rate (around
192kbps) using a well-regarded MP3
encoder.
We have to agree with him that MP3s
do not sound anywhere near as good
as the CD-quality source. Transients
seem much more muddled and sounds
siliconchip.com.au
due to the low power output not
penetrating very far ahead of the
vehicle. The Barking Dog Blaster,
running at a frequency humans
can’t hear, might be a good solution,
with lots of acoustic power to alert
animals that something unusual is
about to occur.
Your thoughts on this please? (M.
M., via email).
• While the Barking Dog Blaster
is reasonably effective at reducing
the nuisance of barking dogs, we
have serious doubts that it would
be useful as a kangaroo deterrent.
While kangaroos may react to the
ultrasonic sound and would hear
it at the same time as they hear the
like cymbals, hi-hats and clapping are
distorted and muddy.
Part of the reason for doing this
project when cheap smart-phones can
already record and play back audio was
that Andrew Levido’s device would
have better sound quality. If he’d used
the MP3 file format that advantage
would have been largely negated.
Also, encoding MP3 in real time is a
processor-intensive task, especially if
the result is to sound any good. Thus
the unit would require either a VS1063
encoder/decoder IC interfaced to the
existing microcontroller or a substantially more powerful microcontroller
(running at a minimum of several
hundred megahertz) to do the job. Both
would likely increase the current drain
and cost/complexity.
On the other hand, while WAVs
are several times larger than MP3s, a
cheap SD card can fit many hours of
CD-quality audio recorded in WAV
format.
We could perhaps do a recorder in
the future that supports MP3. However, if sound quality is important, WAV
and FLAC are still the best formats.
DC-DC converter for
the Tiny Tim amplifier
I am thinking of building the Classic-D DC-DC Converter (SILICON CHIP,
May 2013) to power the Tiny Tim Amplifier. Can the converter be adjusted
down from the intended output of
±35V, to provide the ±20V rails that
the Tiny Tim requires? Also, can the
on-coming vehicle, there is no way
of predicting how they would react.
After all, we must assume that all
kangaroo accidents must be the result of the kangaroo suddenly reacting and darting off in the wrong direction, into the path of the vehicle.
Your point about the penetration
of the acoustic warning is also valid.
You would want the acoustic noise
to be intolerable to the kangaroo at a
distance of at least 50 metres (which
a vehicle travelling at 80km/h would
take only two seconds to traverse).
Obtaining an effective range of 50
metres would require a lot more
power than is available in our Barking Dog Blaster.
PCB of the converter be included in
the same enclosure with the Tiny Tim
board, without the shielding provided
by the metal diecast case?
If shielding is necessary, can it be
confined to just the transformer T1?
I would be providing Mosfets Q1 and
Q2 with heatsinks. (C. B., via email).
• Yes the DC-DC Converter could be
used. The secondary windings would
need to be 15 turns instead of 21 turns.
The fuse should be changed to 5A.
You may need to shield the DC-DC
Converter from the amplifier input
stages if it is located in the same box
but it would be the earthing that has
the most impact on noise. A single
point earth on the chassis should be
used for the 12VDC input negative
terminal and the 0V supply earth.
The signal earth may need to also
connect to the chassis at the signal
input.
UHF remote control
compatibility
Just wondering if you could help me
with some information on the Altronics K1957 UHF transmitter kit. I’d like
to find out if it would be compatible
with other UHF receiver/relay kits, eg,
the Jaycar LR8855?
I don’t need all the features of the
Altronics receiver kit but I would like
a transmitter kit that I can fit into a
ruggedised case for use with a 4X4
winch. (S. C., via email).
• The Altronics K1957 is a rolling
code 3-Channel Transmitter that was
July 2014 99
Shut-Down Timer For Water Pressure Pump
I have a water tank pressure pump
combination to supply water to my
home. If a fitting (eg, a join in an irrigation system) fails then the pump
will run continuously until the tank
is empty, particularly if the house is
unattended at the time!
I want to put a timer in place such
that, when a tap is turned on and
the pump starts, a timer commences
to count down a pre-set number of
minutes (say, 60) and cuts power to
the motor if it is still running. The
pump will then remain disabled
until it is manually re-enabled. Has
SILICON CHIP published anything like
this or perhaps you may have something similar which I can modify? (T.
C., via email).
• We published a Remote Control
Mains Switch in February 2008. The
Mains Switch portion can be set to
apply power to a mains general purpose outlet (GPO) when the Remote
Control Mains Switch is powered
up and allow power to the GPO for
a preset time period. A one-minute
period is available, a more than adequate period for pumps that have
published in SILICON CHIP in August
and September 2009. The transmitter must be used with the receiver
published with this unit (Altronics
KC1958). No other receiver will work
with the transmitter.
The Jaycar LR8855 is a prebuilt UHF
receiver relay board. The separate
transmitter (LR8856) matches that
receiver. While the LR8855 is also rolling code, the Jaycar K1957 transmitter
uses an incompatible rolling code.
With any rolling code transmitter
and receiver, you must use a matching
transmitter and receiver. They must
be also synchronised with the same
rolling code sequence to work together.
A different transmitter will not work.
Speed controller
for a golf buggy
I am looking for a speed controller
for a 12V golf buggy which has a 23A
motor. I bought a Jaycar kit (KC5502)
of the controller from your June 2011
issue and I wonder if I replace the
fuse with a 25A one if it is likely to
withstand the 23A motor. Can you
100 Silicon Chip
a pressure bladder to store pressure
and cycle on and off. A longer timeout would be required for pressureregulated pumps that have digital
electronics control and which run
continuously when supplying water
to a tap.
After the time-out period or when
the pressure switch turns off the
supply, then power would be disconnected from the GPO.
The Remote Control Mains Switch
includes brownout switch-off that
is ideal for protecting pumps. The
remote control features (such as the
UHF remote components) can be
omitted from the circuitry.
The Remote Control Mains Switch
would need to be wired to be powered via the pump’s pressure switch
that would normally power the
pump directly. Then the Remote
Control Mains Switch GPO outlet
would power the pump.
Incidentally, the timer idea would
also protect the pump from continuous running when the supply tanks
run dry. That is common during
drought seasons.
recommend any other modifications?
My inclination is to make it with a
25A fuse and take the risk. The various
components in the actual motor power
part of the circuit look as though they
should be OK to me. (R. M., via email).
• It would probably be OK but you
may need a slow-blow fuse. The motor
may well draw more more than 23A at
start-up. The PCB tracks for the high
current part of the PCB could benefit
from paralleling with tinned copper
wire between connections to prevent
track fusing.
Radio chip for
lightning detector
I recently built the lightning detector
(SILICON CHIP, July 2011) but I am unable to find the AM radio IC, TA7642.
I tried element14 and RS Components
but could not find it. Any suggestions
where I can purchase it or is there an
alternative? (K. P., via email).
• The TA7642 is available from
Wiltronics or Futurlec. See the following links: (1) www.wiltronics.com.
au/catalogue/357/electronic-compo-
nents-and-parts/integrated-circuits%28ics%29/linear/am-radio-ic and (2)
www.futurlec.com/Others/TA7642pr.
shtml
Assembly query on
SemTest project
Can you please clarify a small point
with regard to the main PCB in the
SemTest semiconductor tester project
(SILICON CHIP, February, March & May
2012). Q3, IRF540N and the 7805
regulator are mounted on heatsinks.
Should these devices be electrically
isolated from the heatsinks?
I would normally use a thermal
mounting kit to isolate these ICs but
there is no mention of this approach in
either the text or the parts list, which
makes me a little unsure. (B. D., via
email).
• There’s no need to electrically
isolate either Q3 or the regulator from
their heatsinks, with regard to operation of the SemTest. However, if you
are ever testing the operation of the
main/lower PCB ‘out in the open’ just
make sure that you don’t touch the
heatsink for Q3 (or short it to ground),
as it will give you quite a ‘bite’ due to
the high voltage pulses present on the
drain and heatsink tab of Q3 and hence
on the heatsink as well.
It would of course be possible to
fit an insulating washer and sleeve to
isolate Q3’s heatsink from its tab and
drain, to remove the risk of an accidental ‘bite’. However, if you do this,
just make sure that you use thermal
conducting grease to ensure that Q3
makes good thermal contact with the
heatsink.
We decided not to do this because
the lower PCB is not normally accessible when the SemTest is in operation.
Tempmaster
sensor fault
I have built the Jaycar kit for the
Tempmaster Mk.2 (SILICON CHIP, February 2009) and being new to electronics have taken my time and tested it as
the instructions suggested. However, I
am unable to get the unit to work and
not sure why so I hope you’re able to
point me in the right direction.
I have set the unit to heat and
changed the 2.7kΩ resistor to 2.4kΩ.
The voltage at TP1 is 2.88V for 15°C
and I have tried 2.98V for 25°C. The
voltage at T2 is 4.98V.
siliconchip.com.au
The voltage to CON3 is 2.86V when
TP1 is 2.88V but then when I connect
the relay, the voltage drops to 0.02V
and the LED goes off. Regardless of the
voltage setting, the LED will not go off
while the relay is not connected.
I did notice that a black-ringed resistor in the kit is not used? Was it to be
the link wire? I used some resistor wire
as per the photo in the instructions. I
hope you are able to help me. (C. L.,
via email).
• It sounds as if your temperature
sensor TS1 (the LM335Z) is either not
connected into circuit via CON2 or
is perhaps connected the wrong way
around. So we would suggest that you
look carefully at the connections at
each end of the sensor cable.
The clue to suggesting this as the
cause of your Tempmaster Mk2’s
reluctance to work is your statement
that the voltage measured between TP2
and TPG was 4.98V. If the sensor was
connected correctly into circuit, this
voltage would not be present unless
the sensor temperature was raised to
225°C or more: hotter than your soldering iron tip!
Bluetooth interface for
the Micromite
I am looking at the Micromite article
in the May & June 2014 issues of SILICON CHIP with great interest, particularly with regard to the GPS-controlled
clock. I already have a GPS unit that
transmits its NMEA data via Bluetooth.
Is there any chance of SILICON CHIP
describing a Bluetooth interface for
the Micromite? (D. H., Maleny, Qld).
• We do not plan for a specific article
on Bluetooth interfacing but it is very
easy to do. All Bluetooth receivers (eg,
www.sparkfun.com/products/10253)
RGB LED Strip Controller Won’t Change Brightness
I have just built the RGB LED Strip Controller from the May 2014 issue
and it works fine apart from the brightness control having no effect. I have
checked that there is a connection between the pot wiper pin and pin 19
of the micro and that the voltage at this pin varies when the pot is rotated.
The low voltage cut-out feature works OK, ie, the ADC associated with
ADC7 is working OK. I programmed the microcontroller myself using the
hex file from the SILICON CHIP website. Any thoughts on what else I should
check? (T. W., via email).
• That’s a little odd since the code to read the voltage at ADC6 isn’t much
different from that at ADC7. The brightness control works on our prototype.
Check the solder joint for pin 19 carefully. It’s possible that the pin is
floating above the pad and not making a connection (unless you press
down on it with a probe).
Note: after subsequent correspondence with T. W., he was able to determine that the problem was with the software. In the readADC function,
immediately before the lines reading:
ADCSRA = (1 << ADEN)|(1 << ADPS2)|(1 << ADPS1)|(1 << ADSC);
loop_until_bit_is_set(ADCSRA, ADIF);
It is necessary to insert this line:
ADCSRA |= (1 << ADIF);
This clears the analog-to-digital converter (ADC) interrupt flag prior to
starting a conversion. The software on our website has been updated to
version 1610514B and subsequent programmed microcontrollers supplied
will have this revised firmware.
The fact that the software worked on our prototype may be due to slightly
different revisions of the ATmega48 chip behaving in a different manner
with regards to clearing the ADC interrupt flag by writing zero to it.
put out the data as a serial stream. So
all you need do is connect the Bluetooth receiver to one of the COM ports
on the Micromite and use the serial I/O
functions in MMBasic.
Classic-D amplifier
failed under test
I have built the Classic-D amplifier
(SILICON CHIP, November & December
2012) from an Altronics kit and it
worked perfectly. However, when
I was testing it using the Classic-D
Speaker Protector, it failed. At the time
I was using 1kHz sinewave signal at
less than 1V, with an 8Ω 100W resistive load.
All the voltages are OK with the
protect jumper LK3 in place, how-
WARNING!
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projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely.
Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be carried out according to the instructions in the articles. When
working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with mains AC voltages
or high voltage DC. If you are not confident about working with projects employing mains voltages or other high voltages,
you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability for damages should
anyone be killed or injured while working on a project or circuit described in any issue of SILICON CHIP magazine.
Devices or circuits described in SILICON CHIP may be covered by patents. SILICON CHIP disclaims any liability for the infringement of such patents by the manufacturing or selling of any such equipment. SILICON CHIP also disclaims any liability
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siliconchip.com.au
July 2014 101
Capacitance Leakage Meter Has Faulty 100V Range
I built the Capacitance Leakage
Meter (SILICON CHIP, December 2009)
and it works very well but I have one
query. On the 100V scale the current
under test with a shorted output is
approximately 6.3mA, not 9.9mA
which the text suggests is correct.
I have checked all resistors for value and they all measure as specified
and are in their correct positions. All
other voltage/range currents are very
close to that specified in the article.
I cannot find any solder bridges,
wiring errors or other obvious faults
and the meter performs perfectly as
described in all other respects. (B.
D., via email).
• If the only problem symptom you
are getting during the setting-up of
ever once the protect jumper LK3 is
removed the voltage across VB and VS
is 64V; all the other voltages are OK.
First time round it burnt out the 10Ω
1W resistor connected to the series
100nF capacitor. Is it possible that IC1
(IRS2092) is damaged?
My question is can using a test signal
before the relay kicks in damage the
amplifier? (J. S., Toowoomba, Qld).
• The speaker protector is essentially separate from the amplifier and
protects the loudspeaker from DC.
The blowing of the 10Ω resistor is not
related to the speaker protector being
connected.
We don’t know what you mean by
“voltage across VB and VS is 64V”. If
it means that VS is 64V with respect
to circuit ground (0V) then there is a
severe DC problem where possibly Q1
is shorted between drain and source.
Alternatively, if it means that the
the December 2009 Capacitance
Leakage Meter is a ‘shorted terminals’ reading of only 6.3mA on the
100V range, this suggests that the
DC-DC converter (based on IC1) cannot provide its 100V output when
driving a 10.1kΩ load.
Assuming you have not swapped
any resistors in the divider chain
around switch S1, the most likely
reason for this symptom is that
step-up transformer T1 is somehow
not functioning properly or perhaps
the switching transistor inside IC1
is not able to switch as efficiently
as it should.
We suggest measuring the voltage at TP3 while you are doing the
‘shorted terminals’ test, to see if
voltage between VS and VB is 64V
then that would be normal if IC1 is
not starting up.
If the 10Ω resistor fails, it may be that
the 100nF capacitor in series has an
internal short or is somehow shorted
on the PCB.
It could be that one of the pins on the
IC is open-circuit to the PCB or there
could be a short somewhere between
these pins or elsewhere on the board.
Or maybe the oscillation frequency is
too high. Check the 560pF capacitors
at pins 2, 3 & 4.
Also check the isolation between
the Q1, Q2 & Q3 tabs and the heatsink.
GPS tracker interferes
with car electronics
Having recently installed the GPS
Tracker kit (SILCON CHIP, November
2013) in my 2013 model Landcruiser
the voltage drops below the correct
figure of 1.25V on the 100V range.
If it drops below this figure, this
would suggest that you might get an
improvement by replacing the 1Ω resistor between pins 6 & 7 of IC1 with
one of 0.47Ω. Otherwise, you might
be advised to try rewinding T1, to
improve the converter’s efficiency
when providing 100V output.
Of course, if the meter seems to be
working fine on all other ranges, you
may decide to leave it alone and just
accept that the converter can’t provide the full ‘100V at 10.1kΩ loading’
on the top range. After all, this isn’t
likely to be a problem when you are
testing most ‘good’ capacitors – only
those that are dirt-tin material.
I am having problems with the car’s
OEM remote control losing the plot.
After heaps of diagnosing the problem
with the car’s remote I finally tracked
it down to some type of interference
from the GPS Tracker.
Do you have you any clues as to
how this problem can be fixed? (J. G.,
via email).
• This problem is a first for the GPS
Tracker so we do not have a quick solution. Most likely, the interference is
being created by the switching power
regulator and broadcast via the power
leads. The fix for this could be a cap
acitor (say 1µF) wired across the terminal block for the incoming power and
a ferrite bead in each power lead close
to the GPS Tracker terminal block.
Other things to try would be different power and ground connections
and relocating the GPS Tracker to a
different physical location.
Lower Power Output For The Ultra-LD Amplifier
Initial surge current
may overload generator
I would like to build the Ultra-LD
Mk 3 as a 75W unit as this is all I need
and a 160VA toroidal transformer
will fit into a 1RU rack case. This type
of amplifier design will mostly work
at lower rail voltages but sometimes
linearity performance is sacrificed
if significantly lower without some
modification. (K. J., Hobart, Tas).
• You don’t have to reduce the
supply voltage by a large amount to
I purchased an ‘el cheapo’ 4.5kVA
generator to replace my old Honda
EU20i. The Honda could handle my
inverter welder for short bursts but it
was being pushed past its limits.
The problem is as soon as I attempt
to strike an arc, the el cheapo unit
drops dead! We’re talking milliseconds here! There’s not even time to
generate a spark. There are no alarm
lights – just dead.
Now before the masses start telling
102 Silicon Chip
reduce the power output to 75W. Reducing the supply rails to about 45V
should do the trick. That means that
the transformer secondary voltage
needs to be around 64VAC centretapped or 32VAC a side.
Some circuit modifications will be
necessary: (1) change the 6.8kΩ/1W
resistor at the emitter of Q5 to 4.7kΩ;
and (2) change the two 6.2kΩ resistors to 4.7kΩ each.
siliconchip.com.au
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Cash in your surplus gear. Advertise it here in SILICON CHIP
FOR SALE
can order almost anything in! LEDsales,
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any quantity. 48 hour service. Artwork
design. Excellent prices. Check out our
specials: www.ldelectronics.com.au
PCBs & Micros: Silicon Chip Pub
lications can supply PCBs and programmed microcontrollers for all recent
projects. Order online or phone (02)
9939 3295.
Audio + Video: Professional quality
Quest AV brand equipment is made
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Quest Electronics. Ph 0431 920 667.
sales<at>questronix.com.au
NIXIE CLOCK KITS
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SILICON CHIP July-Aug 2007
Full kits & spare tubes
still available
(For a limited time only)
Phone 0403 055 374; Email glesstron<at>msn.com
RF REPAIRS - Australia wide repair service of most two way radio equipment.
Please contact us on (02) 4305 2301 or
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PCBs MADE, ONE OR MANY. Any
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Superbright LEDs of all sizes, shapes
and colours, brand names like Cree and
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for non-critical applications. Also stocking kits, components and other assorted
items. If we don’t have it, just ask, we
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me about loading and kW vs kVA etc,
the el cheapo runs air-conditioning
that the Honda could never do without
hesitation. It will run all the power
tools I have without fault. So what’s
in the circuitry that freaks out with an
inverter welder attached? Is there a
way around it? (P. L., via email).
• It could be due to the instantaneous surge current into the large input
capacitor in the inverter welder.
siliconchip.com.au
One possible way to stop that would
be to use our SoftStarter for Power
Tools, published in the the July
2012 issue. You can see a 1-page
preview of the article at www.
siliconchip.com.au/Issue/2012/July/
Soft+Starter+For+Power+Tools
If you are interested, you can purchase the issue and buy the PCB on
the website: www.siliconchip.com.
au/Shop/8/665
Question on PICkit3
programmer
I am hoping you may be able to help
with a problem I have just encountered
with the Micromite/GPS clock project
from the May 2014 magazine. After using my PICkit3 for a number of years
with Windows XP, I have just upgraded
my desktop computer to Windows
continued next page
July 2014 103
Advertising Index
Altronics.................................. 78-81
Australian Exhibitions & Events...... 5
Emona Instruments........................ 4
Front Panel Express..................... 39
Gless Audio................................ 103
Hare & Forbes.......................... OBC
Icom Australia.............................. 59
Jaycar .............................. IFC,49-56
KCS Trade Pty Ltd.......................... 9
Ask SILICON CHIP
. . . continued from page 103
7 Ultimate 64-bit and my laptop to
Windows 7 Pro 32-bit.
I find that my PICkit3 no longer
works with these operating systems.
Have you heard of this problem or
know of a solution? I cannot program
my Maximite chip which is frustrating.
I do have a PICkit2 which will work
with the Windows 7 programs but the
PIC32MX150F128B-50I/SP is not a
supported chip.
I have emailed Microchip directly
but received no reply after a couple of
weeks and I have searched the internet
and forums but cannot seem to find
a solution. I have also tried running
MPLAB IDE and the standalone PIC
kit3 programmer under the Windows
XP emulation mode of Windows 7 to
no avail. (P. C., via email).
• In our experience, the PICkit3 does
work with Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit.
Our suggestion is to uninstall MPLAB
X (if you have it installed), then install
the latest version from the Microchip
website. Make sure that you follow
the instructions regarding the installation of drivers, then open up MPLAB
IPE. It is an independent programmer
Notes & Errata
100W Hybrid Switchmode/Linear
Bench Supply, Pt.3, June 2014:
the statement “with the pot fully
anti-clockwise, there should be
minimum resistance between the
left-most and centre pins on CON5
& CON6” is for the pins as viewed
from the front of the unit (ie, opposite to the orientation of the PCB
overlay diagram).
104 Silicon Chip
DOWNLOAD OUR CATALOG at
Keith Rippon .............................. 103
www.iinet.net.au/~worcom
Kinsten Pty Lrd........................... 103
WORLDWIDE ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS
PO Box 631, Hillarys, WA 6923
Ph: (08) 9307 7305 Fax: (08) 9307 7309
Email: worcom<at>iinet.net.au
KitStop.......................................... 39
installed with MPLAB X and it knows
how to use the PICkit3 to program the
PIC32MX150.
LD Electronics............................ 103
LEDsales.................................... 103
Master Instruments.................... 103
Microchip Technology..................... 7
Mikroelektronika......................... IBC
Capacitor discharge
ignition for a go-kart
Ocean Controls............................ 25
We race go-karts with Yamaha 100J
engines. As with most 2-strokes, they
are fitted with a magneto-style ignition. This is fitted with what Yamaha
call a ‘Charge Coil’ and a ‘Pulser
Coil’, where the output cables go to
an ignition box with the plug wire
coming out.
This is where the problem starts –
Yamaha give a test reading for the HT
circuit of 10Ω. I have four boxes, two
of which read OK while the other two
read 3.8Ω and give a weak spark.
As these boxes are sealed with a type
of resin, you are unable to see inside.
The boxes are now unavailable so I
would like to know if they could be
repaired once inside or could a new
set-up be made and put inside the box.
I realise that this is a long shot.
Yes, secondhand ones do come on the
market but it is a gamble as to their
condition. (L. C., Wilton, NSW).
• We published a replacement CDI
Module for Motorbikes/Small Petrol
Motors in May 2008. This required a
charge coil and trigger/pulser coil as
in your Yamaha engine.
You would need to add an ignition
coil to the circuit as the CDI module
does not have that but is designed to
Quest Electronics....................... 103
QualiEco Circuits Pty Ltd............. 45
Radio & Hobbies DVD.................. 69
RFrepairs................................... 103
RF Modules................................ 104
Rohde & Schwarz.......................... 3
Sesame Electronics................... 103
Silicon Chip Binders................ 35,97
Silicon Chip Online Shop........ 90-91
Silicon Chip Subscriptions........... 47
Silvertone Electronics.................. 13
Wiltronics...................................... 11
Worldwide Elect. Components... 104
connect to one. Almost any standard
12V ignition coil should be suitable
although those for motorcycles tend
to be smaller than automotive types.
You can view a preview of the
article at www.siliconchip.com.au/
Issue/2008/May/Replacement+CDI+
Module+For+Small+Petrol+Motors
You can purchase the full issue and
the PCB at www.siliconchip.com.au/
SC
Shop/
siliconchip.com.au
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