This is only a preview of the January 2021 issue of Silicon Chip. You can view 42 of the 112 pages in the full issue, including the advertisments. For full access, purchase the issue for $10.00 or subscribe for access to the latest issues. Articles in this series:
Items relevant to "AM/FM/SW Single-Chip Digital Radio":
Items relevant to "MiniHeart: A Miniature Heartbeat Simulator":
Items relevant to "The Bass Block Subwoofer":
Items relevant to "Busy Loo Indicator":
Articles in this series:
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JANUARY 2021
ISSN 1030-2662
01
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1800 022 888
Contents
Vol.34, No.1
January 2021
SILICON
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Features & Reviews
10 Automotive Electronics, Part 2
In the second part of this series we take a look at the electronic control
modules (ECM) found in modern vehicles – by Dr David Maddison
32 Review: Altium 365 and Altium Designer 21
Altium 365 is a cloud-based companion to Altium Designer. It lets others view
your design without them needing an Altium subscription, along with many
additional features like version control for paying customers – by Tim Blythman
48 How to use the MPLAB X Development Environment
MPLAB X is a multi-platform, free download from Microchip which is used to
code, program and debug PIC and AVR micros – by Tim Blythman
82 AVR128DA48 & Curiosity Nano Evaluation Board
Microchip’s AVR128DA48-based evaluation kit provides an easy way for you to
test out a powerful new AVR micro – by Tim Blythman
This AM/FM/SW Digital Receiver is
based around a single BK1198 radio
IC, controlled by an Arduino Nano.
As a result, it uses a modest number
of parts and assembly is relatively
straightforward – Page 20
102 El Cheapo Modules: Mini Digital AC Panel Meters
In last month’s article we described a variety of DC panel meters; this month
we’re looking at the AC equivalents – by Jim Rowe
Constructional Projects
20 AM/FM/SW Single-Chip Digital Radio
This radio uses a BK1198 radio IC and an Arduino Nano, so it only requires a
small number of extra components to build. It covers the AM band from 5131629KHz, FM from 87-108MHz and SW from 6.4-22MHz – by Charles Kosina
40 MiniHeart: A Miniature Heartbeat Simulator
The MiniHeart produces a low-level soothing heartbeat sound. The beat rate
and volume is adjustable; an off timer can also be set. It’s powered by two AAA
cells – by John Clarke
Altium 365 allows for easy
management of layouts between
multiple users through shared
component libraries, version control,
a shared editor/viewer and much
more – Page 32
The MiniHeart is a
battery-powered
heartbeat simulator.
It has an adjustable
rate of 42-114bpm
at a frequency of
45-51Hz – Page 40
68 The Bass Block Subwoofer
This 4W subwoofer is easy to build and pumps out plenty of bass. It measures
approximately 40cm tall, 27cm wide and 24cm deep – by Nicholas Dunand
78 Busy Loo Indicator
This project uses a reed switch and a magnet to detect when the toilet door is
closed and flashes a bright light to signal someone’s busy – by John Chappell
Your Favourite Columns
61 Serviceman’s Log
One good turn deserves another – by Dave Thompson
75 Circuit Notebook
The Bass Block
is a compact
4W subwoofer
with a frequency
response of 40100Hz at ±3dB
and 25-150Hz at
±5dB – Page 68
(1) A reliable solar lighting system
(2) Converting a cheap welder to a high-current battery charger
(3) Radiating test antenna for AM radios
94 Vintage Radio
1963 Philips Musicmaker MM1 mantel radio – by Assoc. Prof. Graham Parslow
Everything Else
2 Editorial Viewpoint
4 Mailbag – Your Feedback
siliconchip.com.au
93 Product Showcase
100 Silicon Chip Online Shop
107 Ask Silicon Chip
111 Market Centre
Australia’s
magazine
112
Noteselectronics
and Errata
112 Advertising Index
The new AVR
chips from Microchip
are faster and have more functions
than the older types while
generally costing less – Page 82
January 2021 1
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SILICON
SILIC
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher/Editor
Nicholas Vinen
Technical Editor
John Clarke, B.E.(Elec.)
Technical Staff
Jim Rowe, B.A., B.Sc.
Bao Smith, B.Sc.
Tim Blythman, B.E., B.Sc.
Nicolas Hannekum, Dip. Elec. Tech.
Technical Contributor
Duraid Madina, B.Sc, M.Sc, PhD
Art Director & Production Manager
Ross Tester
Reader Services
Ann Morris
Advertising Enquiries
Glyn Smith
Phone (02) 9939 3295
Mobile 0431 792 293
glyn<at>siliconchip.com.au
Regular Contributors
Dave Thompson
David Maddison B.App.Sc. (Hons 1),
PhD, Grad.Dip.Entr.Innov.
Geoff Graham
Associate Professor Graham Parslow
Ian Batty
Cartoonist
Brendan Akhurst
Founding Editor (retired)
Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD
Silicon Chip is published 12 times
a year by Silicon Chip Publications
Pty Ltd. ACN 626 922 870. ABN 20
880 526 923. All material is copyright ©. No part of this publication
may be reproduced without the written
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Phone (02) 9939 3295.
E-mail: silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
ISSN 1030-2662
Editorial Viewpoint
More articles than space –
a good problem to have!
In the October 2020 issue, I wrote about wanting to
publish a range of articles, including some of historical
interest and others about the latest technology. This
has created a bit of difficulty; while we have a good
mixture of different articles, I am struggling to fit all
this content into the magazine.
You might be wondering why I don’t just print
magazines with more pages. That is not as easy as it sounds.
For a start, our printing and mailing costs would go up, and given the
general economic malaise caused by COVID-19, I am reluctant to increase
our expenditures. Note that we have not increased the magazine cover price
for more than seven years now – an unprecedented period in the magazine’s
history.
Another problem is that if I print magazines with more than 112 pages on
our current paper stock, they might not fit into the binders that we sell. We
also sometimes have problems with the centre sections tearing out in larger
magazines. Printing on thinner paper would solve these problems, but result
in worse print quality; something I am not keen on.
Another option is for me to reduce the number of constructional project
articles in some issues.
Since taking over the magazine in August 2018, I have stuck faithfully to
my predecessor’s guideline of having four such articles in every issue. I think
he was right that this strikes a good balance, but perhaps I should make the
occasional exception and run three project articles in some months. That
would allow us to include more feature articles. I think that makes sense,
but I wonder what our readers would think of that.
The other option is to raise the cover price (which I am still trying to put off
as long as possible) and then use the extra revenue to print larger magazines
with more content. That’s assuming we don’t lose too many readers when the
price goes up. But I still couldn’t publish large issues too often, or we would
run into the over-full binders problem I mentioned above.
That makes me think that perhaps dropping to three projects per issue
from time to time is the best solution.
It also occurred to me that we could run some smaller, simpler projects
(which I want to do anyway; again, trying to strike a balance) which will
free up more space for feature articles. That’s what we’ve done in this issue,
running a clever little four-page project which allows us to have five features
plus all our usual columns.
It’s a good solution, but we can’t always come up with shorter projects
that are worth publishing and building (and what seems like a small project
initially can often balloon into a major one!). One of the biggest problems
with these simple projects is that often when someone has an idea, we
have published something very similar before, and I don’t want to keep reploughing the same ground.
If you have strong feelings one way or another about what I have written
here, you are welcome to provide some feedback (eg, by sending an e-mail
to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au). That will help guide my decision-making
when it comes to figuring out which articles to run in future issues, based
on what our readers want.
Printing and Distribution:
Nicholas Vinen
24-26 Lilian Fowler Pl, Marrickville 2204
2
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
MAILBAG
your feedback
Letters and emails should contain complete name, address and daytime phone number. Letters to the Editor are submitted on the condition that
Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd may edit and has the right to reproduce in electronic form and communicate these letters. This also applies to
submissions to “Ask Silicon Chip”, “Circuit Notebook” and “Serviceman”.
Odd GPO socket
might be a phone socket
I would like to comment on the
query in Ask Silicon Chip, December
2020 on old electrical sockets, specifically, one with four flat pins (p107).
I am wondering if it was actually a
telephone socket, as he mentions it
was in a small room (which could be
a telephone room, for quietness and
privacy).
There was an old plug and socket
standard used for moving the telephone
to another room before the more recent
Telecom plugs and sockets, and the
modern RJ11 modular sockets. It had
two horizontal blades in the centre,
with another horizontal blade below
and a vertical blade on top.
I saw several of these in older homes
in Adelaide in the 1950s when I started as a Trainee Technician.
Brian Dunn,
Old Noarlunga, SA.
John Hunter, the author of the Sep-
tember 2020 article on the history of
GPOs, replies: That plug was used
where telephones were wired as a portable service.
Usually, the phone was connected permanently via a terminal block.
It was used on the Bakelite 300 and
400 series telephones, until the 1960s,
when the ‘modern’ AWA-developed
six-pin plug came into being for the
new 800-series telephones.
Tiny Xmas Tree
shines on 12 months later
The Tiny Xmas Trees I built from
the project in last year’s SILICON
CHIP magazine (November 2019;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/12086) are
still shedding light and bringing joy to
the world. The colours progressively
dropped out as the battery voltage fell,
but the red LEDs are still going.
Most Xmas novelties don’t last till
January, so my mobile of four trees is
doing very well. A new set of batter-
ies and we’re ready for Christmas and
hopefully a better New Year!
Dave Dobeson,
Berowra Heights, NSW.
Fluke DMM repair strikes home
I have just read, with great interest,
about the repair of a Fluke model 77
DMM in the Serviceman’s Log, December 2020.
I own a model 75 instrument, also
purchased in the early 1980s, and I had
to replace the fusible resistor about 25
years ago after making a mistake using
the meter. At that time, Philips was
the local agent for Fluke in NZ, and
I was able to buy a replacement from
their trade store (Philips disappeared
shortly after).
I was not even aware that the DMM
also incorporated two spark gaps until I read the article; a hasty check
confirmed that mine are still intact
– whew!
These DMMs are a model of good
design and construction and definitely
precede the ‘throw-away’ era.
Trevor Woods,
Auckland, NZ
From crystal sets to GPS
Nicholas Vinen’s editorial in the
October 2020 issue struck a chord
with me, and prompted a reflection
on my involvement in the electronics hobby over the last 65 years or so.
When the October 2020 issue of Silicon Chip arrived in the mail, I was
deeply immersed in the resuscitation
of an HP5100 frequency synthesiser.
This 1964-vintage piece of test
equipment is the archetypical boat anchor – one of the largest and heaviest
units produced by Hewlett Packard –
and is breathtakingly involved in its
design and construction.
Editor's note: see Serviceman’s Log
starting on p61 for Rob’s repair story.
The Editor pointed out that he wanted to preserve a fresh and dynamic
4
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
outlook to modern-day electronics in
the magazine, and cited some exciting new articles nearing publication.
He also wrote about the importance
of FPGAs and ASICs as foundations
of most modern technology, yet acknowledged the many articles of a
historic nature that had been submitted by passionate readers hoping to
have their favourite subject broadcast
to the world. Maintaining a balance
for his readership was a complex and
conflicting objective.
Looking back over the decades,
to those days before tablets, mobile
phones, computers and television,
the primary interest for hobbyists was
AM radio reception. Radio and Hobbies catered for true beginners and experts alike. Back then, we shopped at
McGraths, Waltham Trading and Radio
Parts for our components, and much
later at Hamfests and government disposals sales.
In 1956, black and white TV arrived
in Australia in time for the Melbourne
Olympic Games, and sure enough,
RTV&H (as it became known) published TV construction projects. For
teenagers like me, being able to tackle something as challenging as a television receiver was super cool, and I
learned a lot about electronics through
the successful completion of a 21-inch
set. It served the family for quite a few
years into the sixties.
Then came the Playmaster hifi amplifiers – just mono in their first implementation, and we all just had to build
one. And to ensure a well-rounded
hobbyist education, we ventured
into carpentry by building vented enclosures housing high-performance
loudspeakers, usually imported from
England.
With the introduction of stereo, our
parents despaired as to where another
monster speaker enclosure could be
crammed into the family living room
of the day!
The idea of a career in electronic
engineering was starting to form, and
in 1965, I completed a course in electrical engineering at the University
of Melbourne. Unlike in today’s job
market, there were many jobs available for electrical engineers. At the
start of the course, I fully expected to
find employment on the production
side of the then-burgeoning consumer
electronics industry.
While electron tubes were still being manufactured in Sydney and Adsiliconchip.com.au
elaide, Fairchild had just invented the
silicon epitaxial planar transistor, and
its natural offspring, the integrated circuit. Manufacturing had commenced
in Melbourne, and we were confident
of being able to find challenging but
satisfying jobs within the electronics
industry.
But the rise of the US and Japanese
electronics majors led to a major shift
away from Australia for investments
in this industry, and any childhood
ambitions of pursuing a career in electronics faded fast in the mid-sixties.
As it turned out, I spent most of my
working life working for ICI and later Orica, and my electronics interests
were served simply through ongoing
hobby work at home.
The spectacular advances in technology will continue, and it won’t
be so long before today’s neophytes
become tomorrow’s seniors. Looking
back for them, it will be just as astonishing as it is for earlier generations
like mine.
No matter what, the fundamental
laws of economics, physics, electromagnetic theory and circuit theory
won’t change. Nor will the need to
troubleshoot poorly performing equipment using common sense, logic and
the application of those laws.
The future of our amazing hobby is
assured, and Silicon Chip magazine
and its contributors will play an ongoing role in communicating new and
important stuff to us all.
Rob Fincher,
McCrae, Vic.
Logic-level Mosfet
needed for 3.3V operation
I was relaxing today, reading the December issue of Silicon Chip. I found
the article on the 3GHz radar module
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/14674) interesting; I think it is very cute.
I noticed, top left of page 52, there
was a suggested circuit using an
IRF540. Since the output level of
the module is likely 3V, but the gate
threshold of that Mosfet is about 3V
and can be as high as 4V, it might not
switch on fully and could overheat
with a high drain current or a big
drain load.
There are logic-level Mosfets available, where the gate threshold is around
1.5V or in the range 1-3V, and like the
IRF540, can switch some pretty hefty
loads.
A common handy little Mosfet I find
Australia’s electronics magazine
January 2021 5
for switching small relays and small
devices etc with a logic-level input
is the BS270. Its threshold voltage is
about 2V. These are pretty convenient
to add to logic circuits etc to switch
something like small lamps, LEDs,
PCB relays etc. The convenient part is
that no resistors are required, which
are needed with a BJT.
Hugo Holden,
Minyama, Qld.
Response: you have a point; we should
have specified a logic-level Mosfet for
that job. We even sell a suitable device
in our Online Shop, the CSD18534KCS
(siliconchip.com.au/Shop/7/4177),
which is rated to handle 73A & 60V.
While it is designed for a 5V gate drive,
it will generally switch loads above
10A with a 3.3V gate drive.
We agree that the BS270 is a handy
device, as are the similar 2N7000
(through-hole TO-92) and 2N7002
(SMD SOT-23).
Hydrogen storage of electricity
The letter on hydrogen storage on
p4 of your September issue reminded
me of a recent visit to Matiu/Somes Island. The guide pointed out a hydrogen storage system there; see www.
futureenergy.nz/about/case_study_
matiu_somes.htm
I enjoy reading Silicon Chip magazine and learn from it.
Malcolm Wheeler,
Wellington, NZ.
Comment: we also briefly mentioned
hydrogen storage of electricity on our
article on Grid-Scale Energy Storage
(April 2020, p23; siliconchip.com.au/
Article/13801).
Confusion over RTL SDR bias tee
In his May 2020 article on RTLSDR Modules (siliconchip.com.au/
Article/14429), Jim Rowe mentions
on page 66 that the bias tee is enabled
by default.
That did instil a bit of paranoia
about potentially damaging it at some
stage, as I plan to order that unit.
It seemed odd to me that it would
default to enabled. I found a note on
www.rtl-sdr.com (in the user guide
section) which states “Note that the
legacy DVB-T TV drivers will activate
the bias tee by default”. So perhaps this
has been fixed with the latest drivers.
Regardless, this is more than a little confusing, especially for those who
intend to use it with Windows and
SDRSharp.
6
Silicon Chip
I was slightly disappointed that the
price of the unit went up just before
I ordered it (by $5). But I must compliment them on their speed; I placed
the order on Thursday and received
it on Monday, even though I’m in regional NSW.
Phil Porritt,
Inverell, NSW.
Jim Rowe responds: frankly, I found
the information regarding enabling
of the bias tee quite conflicting and
confusing too. That’s why I wrote what
I did; I didn’t intend to “instil a bit
of paranoia” in readers. I still think
that removing SMD inductor L13 is a
good idea – unless you want to power an up-front preamp or preselector,
of course.
Software security is still abysmal
The “Editorial Viewpoint” in your
February 2020 issue seems to have an
error close to the end; it says “Most
recent CPUs and operating system an
‘NX’ bit’” which makes no grammatical sense. I believe you are referring
to making the stack and the data segments non-executable by setting the
‘NX’ bit on those parts.
After nearly 50 years of programming experience, I am disappointed
to see the same mistakes occurring
over and over again; do people learn
nothing? I think the major problem is
that anyone can call themselves a computer programmer, without any formal
training or qualifications whatsoever.
Dave Horsfall.
North Gosford, NSW.
Response: you are right. In the original editorial text, that sentence read
“Most recent CPUs and operating system have something called an ‘NX bit’
which helps to reduce the chance such
a flaw can be exploited, but can’t totally prevent buffer overflow attacks.”
Untrained programmers are part of
the problem, but time pressure from
management and poor organisation
are probably factors too.
Fixed wireless preferred over NBN
Your tale in the June 2020 editorial,
“National Broadband Not-work?”, is
depressingly familiar to me. I also experienced many months of appalling
corporate inefficiency at the hands of
Telstra and NBN.
The amount of frustrating telephone time spent in pursuit of even
simple requests, plus frequent phone
and broadband outages on copper, led
Australia’s electronics magazine
me to terminate all wired service with
Telstra and NBN.
My small office on Sydney’s lower
North Shore now uses a 4G wireless
internet connection that runs between
50Mb and 120Mb per second (averaging
75Mb), depending on the time of day.
The monthly cost is around $60/100GB
plus $30/month for two VOIP lines.
In terms of peaceful internet access,
I have never been happier. If I should
ever move, I can take the 4G modem and
my phone services with me – no call
centre interaction required. VOIP providers such as Maxotel are these days
really well organised, with locallybased tech-savvy operators.
I fervently hope that I never have
to return to cable of any description.
Peter Felton,
Willoughby, NSW.
Solar panel orientation:
are we doing it wrong?
According to an article from the ABC
(siliconchip.com.au/link/ab5t), instead
of using the usual ‘rule of thumb’ of
orientating solar photovoltaic panels
to the North, angled based on your latitude, it would be much better to have
a 50/50 mix of PV panels facing either
East or West. That could mean that one
homeowner has all their panels facing
East and another West, or people could
have a mix of the two.
If you think about it, this makes
sense, since it will provide more power during the morning and afternoon
demand peaks, better matching supply with demand. It will also help to
reduce those very high mains voltages
that we can sometimes see in the middle of sunny days, as well as preventing grid-tied inverters from going offline due to high mains voltages.
Read the article for yourself and see
if you think they are right.
Edison Zhang,
Chippendale, NSW.
Testing solar panels
Congratulations to Dennis Stanley
for his Automatic Solar Panel Checker
design you published in Circuit Notebook, October 2020 (siliconchip.com.
au/Article/14601).
The only downside that I can see
is that it won’t work on 12V panels.
Apart from that, it is streets ahead of
the tester I made up years ago. My tester just had a voltmeter, ammeter and a
rocker switch to place a load of either
9W or 18W across the panel.
siliconchip.com.au
Regarding the comments about faulty panels in the article, I have seen several defective panels. Some have been
cheap grid connect-panels – typically rated at 60V opencircuit and 4A short-circuit. These faulty panels have an
open-circuit voltage of about 55V, and short-circuit current in strong sunlight of about 1A.
On the positive side, I still have a few BP panels
(BPX47C) that were manufactured before 1980, rated at
33W. A test last week in intense sun with a 9W load gave
me 16.0V at 1.66A. So these 40+-year-old panels are still
working OK.
I had the privilege of being shown through the BP solar
panel factory in Sydney in the early 2000s. At the time,
The solar panel shown above has a clear fault where it is
discoloured due to overheating.
they were making BP panels and Solarex panels on two
different manufacturing lines. I have some BP 36W panels
and Solarex 37W panels, manufactured in 1987, which are
still working well. I have seen a lot more faulty Solarex
37W panels than the BP types.
The quality of BP panels fell sharply when they started
making 68W panels. A very large percentage developed
high-resistance solder joints between cells.
The adjacent photo show where these faults have caused
severe heating, which makes them easy to identify, but
most faulty panels had no obvious external signs.
These panels had been installed in strings of four. Faulty
panels could not be identified by just checking the opencircuit voltage and short-circuit current, as when a panel
was short-circuited, the fault disappeared, only to return
some days later. That is why I made up a resistive tester, which draws enough current to identify faulty panels
without making the fault go away.
I have found that BP 80W (12V) panels have very few
problems, and BP 160W (24V) panels are also of good
quality.
I have seen panels with delamination problems, often
identifiable by tarnishing of the copper connecting strips.
The result is low insulation resistance, causing gridconnect inverters to shut down or not start up.
These faulty panels can be used in off-grid (12/24V) setups with no problems. I reused some with that fault more
than two years ago (because they were free), and they are
still working well.
I have also reused two panels from a house that caught
fire. The heat on the panels was so great, the junction
boxes were melted into blobs and had to be cut off with a
Dremel to access the tinned copper strips coming out of
the panel. I repainted the backs of the panels, and they are
still working well after more than two years.
Honey Trina imported a batch of panels with faulty laminations – again, mostly identified by looking at the tarnishing. But Trina panels before and after that batch are high
quality. Second-hand ET panels are of excellent quality,
and can be occasionally found on Gumtree for $20-40 each.
I believe most solar panels are very robust, but a good
tester is essential to ensure you don’t buy rubbish secondhand panels.
Sid Lonsdale,
Cairns, Qld.
Chiming clock projects wanted
I like chiming clocks. That is, ones with real bells rather
than artificial electronic noisemakers.
I have a couple of old wind-up wall clocks that sound
good, with real striking parts. But I don’t always remember to keep them wound up. Also, they aren’t accurate
timekeepers, needing frequent adjustment.
It would be great to have a hybrid system, based on a
quartz resonator for convenience and accuracy, but one
that can trigger a solenoid for the traditional hour, half
& quarter strikes on a bell, bar, tube or some other actual
metal resonator.
Even a “faceless” clock would serve, as it’s the accurate
chiming at proper intervals that matters. I can always have
an ordinary clock as well, just to look at the time.
I guess there would be a need for some sort of display
though, and some interfacing for setting it up.
8
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
There are some fairly expensive long-case clocks available, quartz-regulated and with real chimes, but these are
over-styled and not desired.
While I love reading Silicon Chip and get out my soldering tools on occasion, I have insufficient design skills
for such a project. I wonder if someone there would be
inclined to consider this idea, and maybe even develop
an article or project kit.
There must be people who, like me, much prefer the
sound of real chimes, and would appreciate not having
to keep winding and adjusting a purely mechanical clock.
J. P.,
Penrose, NSW.
Comment: We have a project design coming up in the
February issue which uses solenoids to strike wind
chimes. Perhaps that could be adapted to do what you
are asking. We will consider what needs to be changed
to achieve that.
Edison Voicewriters for a good home
I have both a recorder and a player of the 1950s Edison
brand Voicewriter model, shown in the photos below. I
am a combined geek and bowerbird from way back, but
I don’t have the resources to repair/display them, so I
would like them to go to a good home. The only date I
can find on either of them is 25th August 1952.
There is also some cabling (some of which is rubberinsulated and so has deteriorated), and a mains transformer (presumably for use with 240V AC).
Thank you for your magazine. I have returned to electronics (my first career) in my later life, and you have
provided me with a much-needed update on technologies such as Arduino and the like.
John Evans,
Macgregor, ACT.
SC
john.evans111111<at>gmail.com
Articles on arc welding wanted
As a long-time reader/subscriber, I would like to suggest
that an article about electric welding would be of interest
to your readers, including me. There has been a steady
evolution of electric arc technology, particularly in the
MIG and TIG processes.
Inverter technology has reduced the size and weight
of welding machines, which used to derive their power
from a mains frequency transformer, and the price of the
machines and ease-of-use now put them into the hands
of DIY hobbyists. Microcontrollers are now at the heart of
most welders, controlling not just the basics like voltage
and amperage used, but also pulse frequency and even
wave shape.
I think this would make an informative and interesting
article for Silicon Chip, and I would also like to suggest
that a DIY project could be developed and published, perhaps building a controller to upgrade a simple, low-cost
analog welding machine.
One DIY project I undertook was to make a batterypowered DC MIG welder. As I don’t have mains power,
and the vehicles I need to repair are out in a paddock, it
was a worthwhile project.
I had a MIG welder that consisted mainly of a large
transformer with two outputs, for low and high power. It
didn’t even have a rectifier, so it welded with AC, which
is not optimal for mild steel.
I replaced the transformer with a 5S 12P pack of Li-ion
18650 cells that I made up, and to power the wire-feed motor, I added a small PWM motor speed controller module.
I found that there was room to add a 100A motor speed
controller to regulate the power output, but the thin electrode wire I was using (0.6mm) and the ability to control the wire feed speed obviated the need to control the
power output.
My need was to repair body rust damage on my car to
pass the rego inspection, requiring me to cut out the rust
and fabricate patches which I successfully welded in place.
Grinding down the weld bead, applying a cosmetic filler
and then painting produced a very good result, and so the
car passed the rego inspection, without having to resort to
using “bog”! Very pleased, I was.
Chris Battle,
Coffs Harbour, NSW.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
January 2021 9
Automotive
Electronics
Part II – ECM Types
by Dr David Maddison
Last month, we provided an overview of how automotive electronic control
modules (ECMs) work, described how they communicate and listed some of the
many types used. We also described the operation of the engine control unit (ECU)
in detail. Now we’ll concentrate on the other ECM types found in modern vehicles.
T
here are very many electronic control modules we
could describe; probably enough to fill the magazine!
So we have selected the following few as representative and diverse systems.
others must be replaced. For details on how data can be
extracted from an ACM, see the video and instructions at
siliconchip.com.au/link/ab4k Also see the video titled “KIA
Airbag control module (ACM)
Airbags use MEMS devices to determine if a severe
impact has occurred and activate pyrotechnic devices to
generate gas to fill the airbags (Fig.28). The ACM usually
contains capacitors to store power during a crash in case
vehicle power is lost.
ACMs store data about the crash that caused them to
activate such as speed, throttle setting, brake application,
seat belt usage and other data at the time of impact.
The ACM uses data such as seat occupancy, occupant
weight and crash severity to determine whether to inflate
airbags, which airbags to inflate, when to inflate them and
how rapidly to inflate them.
We published an in-depth article on airbag systems in our
November 2016 issue (siliconchip.com.au/Article/10424).
In the event that a car is repaired after airbag activation,
the ACM has to be either replaced or reset via hardware
and/or software means.
Some models can be reused a limited number of times;
10
Silicon Chip
Fig.28: the Toyota
Prius airbag control
module is fairly
typical. It integrates
sensors to detect an impact with a processor to determine
which airbags to fire, and components to send pulses to the
airbag(s) to trigger them. The large capacitors allow it to
continue operating for some time, even if the vehicle wiring
or battery is damaged by the impact.
Australia’s electronics magazine
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Fig.30: a body control module with integral fuses from a
2017 Alfa Romeo Giulia. Note the numerous connectors
which go to buses, sensors and actuators.
Source: pacificmotors.com
Fig.29: an ABS pump and control module from a Mazda
2. The electronic control module is the black case at the
bottom, with the hydraulic valve body between it and at
the pump at the top. Source: abssteuergeraet.com
Soul 2016 14 15 SRS Airbag Module Reset via OBD CAN
Lines” at https://youtu.be/iz14cIOZhpU
Our article on OBD2 in the September 2020 issue
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/14576) also described how
to reset airbag computers using OBD2 in certain vehicles.
Anti-lock braking system (ABS)
Modern ABS systems use a speed sensor on each wheel,
a hydraulic valve for each brake line, a pump (see Fig.29)
and an electronic controller. If a particular wheel decelerates
faster than others during braking, suggesting that locking up
is imminent, hydraulic pressure is released from that brake
and then rapidly reapplied to ‘pulse’ the brakes and allow
the vehicle to be steered during hard braking.
The pressure lost due to pulsing the brake line is made
up by the hydraulic pump. An ABS can release and reapply
brake pressure as much as 15 times per second.
Brake assist (BAS)
This system was first developed by Daimler Benz TRW/
LucasVarity. It increases brake pressure in an emergency. An
emergency is sensed by such factors as the speed at which
a foot is removed from the accelerator and applied to the
brake. Once an emergency is assessed, full braking force
is applied to the maximum permitted by the ABS system.
The rationale for this system is that most drivers do not apply the brakes forcefully enough in an emergency. It has been
shown to be highly effective in reducing rear-end collisions.
Body control module (BCM)
The BCM controls and monitors less critical devices on
a vehicle’s body such as power windows, mirrors, heatsiliconchip.com.au
ing and cooling, lighting, anti-theft immobiliser etc (see
Figs.30 & 31).
See the videos titled “BCM Trouble: Ranger & BT50” at
https://youtu.be/IBEzMVtXuX4 and “Took apart a 20132017 Ford fusion BCM body control module” at https://
youtu.be/cO3FSrXfQpA
Catalytic converter / oxygen sensor
While not actually ECMs, cats are an essential component of the emissions control system for gasoline engines
and integrate with the ECU and electronic oxygen sensors,
described last month.
Catalytic converters (cats) convert nitrous oxides, hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide to nitrogen, water and
carbon dioxide (see Figs.32 & 33). For them to work well,
the engine has to be within a narrow band of air-fuel ratios;
otherwise, there is too much or too little oxygen and the
converter won’t function properly.
Modern vehicles have oxygen sensors before and after
the converter to monitor the oxygen content in the exhaust
stream. The oxygen data is sent to the ECU to ensure optimal conditions inside the converter by adjusting engine
characteristics.
A converter has two sections. The first reduces NOx to
Security concerns
The extensive computerisation and networking of cars
opens up new opportunities for malicious individuals. It is
possible to clone electronic key fobs, as described in our
article “History of Cyber Espionage and Cyber Weapons, Part
1” in the September 2019 issue, on page 19 (siliconchip.
com.au/article/11911). It’s also possible to spy on vehicle
occupants, as described on page 21 of that issue.
Those with malicious intent can also (possibly) take
control of a car. Hopefully, security flaws are being patched
as they are discovered, preferably before that!
See the videos titled “How to Hack a Car: Phreaked Out
(Episode 2)” at https://youtu.be/3jstaBeXgAs and “Hackers Remotely Kill a Jeep on a Highway” at https://youtu.
be/MK0SrxBC1xs
Australia’s electronics magazine
January 2021 11
Fig.31: the architecture of a Texas Instruments
body control module system. MCU is the
microcontroller unit, LDO is low-dropout
regulator, ESD is electrostatic discharge protection, MSDI is multiple switch detection interface, MUX is multiplexer, HS and LS refers to high side and low side switches
and BTSI is brake transmission shift interlock.
nitrogen, the second oxidises CO to CO2 and hydrocarbons to
water and CO2. The ECU constantly cycles between slightly
rich (oxygen poor) and slightly lean (oxygen rich) because
the first stage needs to be oxygen-deficient and the second
stage needs to be oxygen-rich to work.
See the video titled “See Through Catalytic Converter”
at https://youtu.be/ekQcy6GN1pM
There are also catalytic converters for diesel engines. They
oxidise CO and hydrocarbons but for NOx control, other
systems are used, such as urea injection (“diesel exhaust
fluid”, DEF, marketed as AdBlue or other names) into the
exhaust and an additional special catalyst.
Cylinder deactivation
In some engines, especially six and eight cylinder types
(but also those with four and even three cylinders!), some
of the cylinders can be shut down under light driving conditions to save fuel (see Figs.34(a) & (b)).
In GM vehicles, this technology is known as Active Fuel
Management.
It involves special valve lifters, a special manifold assembly and appropriate control by the ECU. Greater fuel
economy (up to 12% improvement in GM vehicles) can be
obtained without downsizing the engine. The extra power
of a larger engine is available when needed.
As of 2019, the GM system has now evolved to Dynamic
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Silicon Chip
Fuel Management (DFM), where as many cylinders as need
be can be deactivated. Other manufacturers have similar
systems.
For more details, see our article in the January 2009 issue
on cylinder deactivation in Honda V6 engines (siliconchip.
com.au/Article/1268).
Electronic stability control (ESC)
ESC (also known as ESP, or electronic stability program)
is an extension of the ABS or VSC system. Additional sensors are added such as a steering wheel angle sensor and a
MEMS gyroscope (see Fig.35).
If there is a mismatch between the vehicle’s intended direction (as determined by the steering wheel angle) and the
actual direction of travel (as determined by the gyroscope),
one or more wheels are braked to realign the vehicle into
the intended direction.
This is now a mandatory system in all new vehicles in
the USA, Canada and EU. Two different ways that traction
and stability control can be implemented, as used on older
and newer vehicles, are shown in Figs.36 & 37.
Fuel composition module
This module is used in vehicles that can run on E85 ethanol as well as normal fuel (E10 or E0). They measure the
exact amount of ethanol in the fuel and pass the information
Australia’s electronics magazine
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Fig.32: a catalytic
converter with exhaust
going left to right. HC stands
for hydrocarbons, NOX is nitrogen oxides
and CO is carbon monoxide. They are
transformed to water (H2O), CO2 and nitrogen (N2). There
are two different catalyst sections, plus oxygen sensors at
the inlet and outlet which feed data to the ECU.
to the ECU to manage timing, quantity of fuel injected and
maximum boost level (see Fig.38).
When switching between E0 and E85, the fuel could be
anywhere from 0% up to about 85% ethanol. Higher ethanol
concentrations require wider injector pulses as ethanol has
about half the energy per litre of petrol. However, ethanol
also acts as an octane booster and charge cooler, allowing
for more timing advance and higher boost levels, provided
there is enough fuel delivery capacity.
Knock sensor
The knock sensor (Figs.39 & 40) detects engine ‘knocking’
that happens when the air-fuel mixture ignites before the
spark. This can be due to inappropriate fuel, excessive cylinder pressure, insufficient air-fuel ratio, excessive turbo or
supercharger pressure, high operating temperature, carbon
deposits or other reasons.
Knock can cause severe engine damage due to the high
pressures generated.
A knock sensor generally uses a piezoelectric or inductive
sensor attached to the engine block or head that acts like
a microphone. It is tuned to be sensitive to the frequency
of engine knock of the specific engine. Knock information
is sent to the ECU and engine adjustments such as timing, fuel mixture or boost pressure are made to reduce or
eliminate knock.
Fig.33: a screengrab from the “See Through Catalytic
Converter” video (https://youtu.be/ekQcy6GN1pM). Much
heat is generated during the catalysis process. Catalysts also
contain valuable platinum, palladium and rhodium, making
them expensive and a target for thieves in some places.
These sensors are sensitive enough that they can normally
detect incipient knock before it is a problem and make slight
adjustments to avoid it.
This allows vehicles to take advantage of high-octane
fuel (providing better power and economy when it is used)
while still allowing lower octane fuel to be used without
risk of damage.
Launch control
Launch control is built into a number of high-performance
vehicles. Like traction control, its purpose is to limit wheel
spin, but unlike traction control, it maintains the engine at
the maximum RPM possible for the best acceleration from
a stationary position (see Fig.41).
Some wheel slip may be permitted, consistent with
maximum acceleration.
The GM Camaro ZL1 adjusts engine torque 100 times per
second to maximise acceleration without excessive slipping. Such systems require an electronic accelerator pedal
(throttle-by-wire) or a transmission brake.
Traction control modules can be added to certain vehicles
as aftermarket accessories, or launch control can be part of
other engine control functionality.
See the video from Australian company Haltech titled “How Launch Control Works” at https://youtu.
be/5g2YFquhGtE
Fig.34(a) & (b); in Honda’s cylinder
deactivation system, the ECU uses
a solenoid to control oil pressure
to a set of pistons. When pressure
is applied (left), the primary
and secondary arms are locked
together, so the intake and exhaust
valves operate normally.
When pressure is removed (right),
the arms unlock, and the valves
no longer open. The ECU switches
off the fuel injectors and spark
plugs for those cylinders at the
same time.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
January 2021 13
The 42V electrical system
In the 1990s, there was a proposal to change the standard
voltage of a car electrical system from 12V to 42V.
A fully charged regular car battery is 12.6-12.9V and a
typical float charging voltage is 13.8V, which is about what
the average voltage of the car electrical system runs at and
what accessories are rated for. That rounds to 14V, so 42V
is then triple the standard car electrical system voltage.
The voltage chosen had to be under 50V due to shock
hazards. A higher standard voltage was chosen because it
allows for a lighter wiring harness; three times the voltage
means one third the current for the same power, and the
thickness of wiring is dependent on current, not voltage.
A further advantage of a higher voltage is that motors
such as window winders, electric power steering pumps
etc can be smaller and lighter.
Disadvantages are that the higher DC voltage requires
more expensive switches due to more arcing, there was
already a lot of support for the 12V system, and the need
for the 42V system was reduced with the development of
more efficient motors and multiplexed data buses requiring
less wiring. Also, most hybrids have dual-voltage electrical
systems anyway.
The Audi SQ8 (mentioned last month) has a separate
48V volt system for its electric supercharger, and there are
other vehicles with similar setups for start/stop systems etc.
While there are cars out there with 42V electrical systems
(mainly luxury vehicles), in the end, the benefits just weren’t
worth the cost of switching and so most manufacturers
haven’t bothered. 12/14V remains the dominant standard,
at least for now.
Fig.35: Electronic Stability Control (ESC, sometimes
called ESP or VSC [vehicle stability control]) uses the ABS
hydraulic actuator to brake individual wheels, to pull the
vehicle back into line when traction is lost. This photo
shows four wheel speed sensors, a steering angle sensor,
yaw-rate sensor, the controller and the hydraulic unit.
Mass airflow sensor (MAF)
A MAF measures the amount of air by mass (and temperature as an auxiliary function) flowing into a fuel-injected
engine (see Fig.42). This data is used by the ECU to deliver
the correct air-fuel ratio in both open-loop and closed-loop
modes (in conjunction with the oxygen sensor in the latter
mode).
It is important to measure the mass of air rather than its
volume, because the volume varies according to air temperature and pressure, but a given mass of air will always
have the same amount of oxygen.
Most MAF devices use either a hot wire or moving vane
technology for mass measurement. Airflow is controlled by
the throttle body which contains a butterfly valve.
These days it is usually motorised (‘drive-by-wire’) and
also has a throttle position sensor to
communicate throttle position to the
ECU. The ECU monitors the accelerator pedal position and sets the throttle
position.
In the absence of a MAF, a manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor
can be employed. In this case, mass
airflow is calculated by knowing the
air temperature and engine RPM and
using a lookup table for fueling. For a
turbo or supercharged engine (forced
induction), both a MAF and MAP are
normally used.
Fig.36: traction and stability control
systems can take various forms.
This older design uses a second
electronically-controlled throttle
butterfly to reduce engine torque
when wheel spin is detected (more
modern systems would send signals
to the existing motorised throttle).
The main input signals are from
the wheel speed sensors, which are
shared with the anti-skid system.
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Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
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Fig.37: more modern vehicles use a single electronic
control unit for anti-lock braking ABS), traction
control (TCS) and stability control (ESC). In addition
to the wheel speed inputs, it has a yaw rate sensor
and a steering angle sensor, which it can compare to
determine if the vehicle is travelling in the intended
path or not. As throttle closure takes time, traction
control systems will also adjust spark timing
(possibly even disabling it) to quickly reduce
engine output when the wheels spin during
acceleration.
Parking assist or self-parking
This feature was first demonstrated in
1992 on Ford’s Futura concept car. Then
in 2003, Toyota offered it in their Japanese
Prius model.
Self-parking cars can fit into smaller
spaces than many drivers can achieve
manually.
A self-parking system requires a motorised steering wheel
(normally via the electric steering assistance system) plus
several sensors such as ultrasonic distance sensors, radar
and cameras to provide inputs to the car computer systems
about surrounding obstacles, so the car can be manoeuvred
into position (see Fig.43).
Both parallel and perpendicular parking can be performed, depending on the system. See the video titled “Park
Assist Pilot allows 2020 Volvo XC90 T6 to Park itself” at
https://youtu.be/ujF1veCdHZs
Rain sense module (RSM)
The RSM detects water on the windshield and activates
the wipers at an appropriate speed or interval (see Figs.
44&45). It may also perform other functions, as in the Hella
brand unit shown.
It operates on the principle of total internal reflection of a
light beam. This occurs with no water on the upper (outside)
reflecting surface, but if water is present, some light is lost
and the loss of signal is interpreted as rain.
Late model Teslas also use their video cameras to detect
rain. These systems generally have a sensitivity setting
controlled by the driver.
Regulated voltage control (RVC)
RVC regulates the battery charging voltage based on estimated or measured battery temperature and state-of-charge
(SoC). Benefits include improved fuel economy due to the
alternator only providing power when necessary, and longer
lamp and switch life due to more accurate voltage control.
The RVC system maintains the battery at 80% SoC or 13.0V
to avoid unnecessary charging.
On GM vehicles, the alternator is controlled by the “L”
terminal. The PCM (powertrain control module) sends a 5V
variable duty cycle signal to it to control the output voltage
from 11V to 15.5V.
Editor’s note: this is a somewhat controversial system as it
means that the battery will go flat quicker when parked and
besides the inconvenience, this can also lead to premature
battery failure. We have had several letters in Mailbag in
the past from readers complaining about vehicle battery
undercharging.
Traction control system (TCS)
The purpose of a TCS is to stop the driven wheels losing
traction during acceleration, especially on slippery surfaces
such as wet or oily roads (see Fig.46). In most modern vehicles, it is now part of the ESC system, but it might also be
Fig.38: a GM ethanol fuel sensor
module. It determines the
percentage of ethanol in the
fuel flowing through it. This is
used to apply corrections to the
engine map to optimise operation
at a wide range of percentages.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.39: a cutaway diagram
of an engine knock sensor.
The mass on top of the
piezoelectric crystal
helps tune the device
to be sensitive to the
frequency of the knock
vibrations. It is essentially
a microphone that’s very
sensitive to particular
frequencies.
Australia’s electronics magazine
January 2021 15
Fig.40: the knock sensor can be mounted directly to the
engine head or attached to it via a bracket, as shown here.
Some vehicles (usually those with larger engines) can have
multiple knock sensors. They are sensitive enough to detect
‘incipient’ knock before it’s noticeable to the driver, or can
cause any damage.
Fig.41: a Lingenfelter ‘aftermarket’ combined RPM limiter,
timing retard controller and launch controller intended for
racing applications for GM Gen V V8 engines.
integrated with the ABS system and the ECU.
It monitors wheel speed and if there is a mismatch between the speed of the driven wheels, or between the driven
and undriven wheels, engine power power is reduced or a
wheel may be braked (via the ABS electrohydraulic system)
to stop the slipping wheel spinning excessively.
In our article on fluidics (August 2019; siliconchip.com.
au/Article/11762), we described how traditional automatic
transmissions were controlled via a complicated series of
channels, valves and solenoids through which transmission fluid flowed (the valve body). This created a fluidic
computer to change gears as needed.
This technology has now been replaced with a TCU that operates the transmission via electronic solenoids (see Fig.47).
It uses many inputs such as engine RPM, throttle position,
recent driving history, speed, whether the vehicle is going
uphill or downhill, whether the wheels have traction or
not, torque converter slippage, transmission temperature,
traction control system state, cruise control state etc.
These TCU inputs are analysed and outputs are gener-
ated to control the automatic transmission via solenoids to
change gears, control hydraulic pressures, to lock the torque
converter and to instruct the ECU to momentarily reduce
or even “blip” the throttle during gear changes.
The TCU also monitors natural wear in the transmission
such as of the clutches, and it makes alterations to transmission operation to compensate for wear. Outputs are also
sent to other control modules such as the cruise control and
error codes for faults can also be generated to be shown on
dash warning lights and the OBD system.
Like ECUs, aftermarket TCUs are available. These might
be used when a modern engine and transmission have been
retrofitted into a classic car, or for drag racing. An aftermarket
TCU uses the more basic inputs of engine and road speed,
throttle position or manifold vacuum and selected gear. See
the video titled “1966 GTO: TCI Transmission Controller
V8TV” at https://youtu.be/X3EmzS7VSMk
TCUs can also be remapped. Typical changes made are
the point of torque converter lockup, gear change points and
shift speed. Some vehicles are said not to be shipped with
optimal TCU settings from the factory and benefit greatly
from changes. One such vehicle is apparently the 2017 Land
Fig.42: looking into a Holden Commodore MAF sensor. The
wires are electrically heated and the mass of air flowing past
them cools them. The current required to keep the wires at a
constant temperature is therefore proportional to the mass of
air moving past them. Source: Wikimedia user Jeff3205.
Fig.43: a Ford Active Park Assist module for self-parking.
It coordinates inputs from range sensors and controls
the steering. The driver controls the accelerator (speed)
and transmission (forward/reverse) via prompts from the
onboard screen.
Transmission control unit (TCU)
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Australia’s electronics magazine
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Fig.44: the operation of a typical vehicular rain sensor.
Total internal reflection is achieved with no rain, but there
is some signal loss with water on the glass.
Source: Wikimedia user Puppenbenutzer, CC BY 3.0.
Cruiser 200; see siliconchip.com.au/link/ab4l
Here is a video of how an original factory TCU is reflashed.
Make sure the battery doesn’t go flat during the reflashing
process! It’s titled “Programming a GM TCM with an Autel”
and is at https://youtu.be/DtmiQD_pzC4
Autel is a brand of proprietary scan tool that uses J2534
communications (which was described briefly last month).
Apart from the modules described above, there are numerous others, often particular to certain manufacturers or
models. Other types of modules include:
• adjustable pedal module
• airbag control module
• electronic vehicle information centre
• heated seat module
• instrument cluster
• memory seat module
• passenger and driver door module
Fig.45: a schematic of an electronically controlled
automatic transmission. Source: after Clemson University
Vehicular Electronics Laboratory.
•
•
•
•
sentry key immobiliser module
sunroof module
throttle control module
wireless charging module for phones
Drive-by-wire
As in modern aircraft, in many modern vehicles mechanical linkages between the controlling device (such as a gear
shifter) have been replaced with electro-mechanical servos.
Examples include steering, brakes, throttle, gear shifting
and when some are combined together, automatic parking.
Currently, full steering-by-wire systems are illegal in most
places; there is a requirement for a mechanical linkage to the
Fig.46: a Hella combined rain
and light sensor, which activates
the wipers and headlights. They
are generally attached to the
windscreen above the rear vision
mirror. Artificial lighting is
distinguished from natural lighting
due to different spectra. This
particular sensor is of
modular construction, and
car manufacturers can choose
additional functionality such
as humidity measurement, a
solar sensor to adjust the air
conditioning, adjustment of
head-up display brightness and
adaption to windscreen conditions
such as dirt. It is connected to the
rest of the vehicle systems by both
LIN and CAN buses. Source: Hella.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
January 2021 17
Fig.47: some components of the ABS, ECS and TCS
in a typical vehicle. Some components are shared
and communicate with each other over the
vehicle’s data bus. In this diagram, ESC is
instead labelled VSC while TSC is
labelled TRAC.
steering rack. However, in some countries
there are already cars on the road with no
such mechanical linkage, including the
Infiniti Q50 from 2014 onwards.
Electric servo operation of steering
is possible and is used in most current
vehicles. Drive-by-wire systems allow
for more design flexibility, less weight
and better computer control over vehicle
systems and potentially, more reliability.
Computer control might be seen as a
bad thing as there are possible security
(malicious hacking issues) enabling unauthorised persons to take control over the car, and the
possibility of an electronic failure rendering the vehicle
uncontrollable. However, that can happen with mechanical linkages too.
The technology has proven safe and effective on aircraft
and is accepted. Drive-by-wire leads the way to autonomous
vehicle operation.
Note that conventional mechanical systems such as powerassisted steering or brakes will still work even if the power
assistance servo fails.
This might not be the case in drive-by-wire or brake-bywire systems, unless safety measures are taken such as multiple levels of redundancy and a software “voting” system
in the event of a communications failure between the brake
SC
system and the pedal (see Fig.48).
Interesting videos
“Reading The Extracted Memory From A Car ECU
With A Raspberry Pi”: ............. https://youtu.be/zdgA86pbkw0
“Open source car engine management”:
................................................. https://youtu.be/C1D5B7BNGqA
A DIY repair of an ECU: “Ford OBD-1 ECM Repair”
................................................. https://youtu.be/B0Dj40Dkszo
“Airbag Crash Data Reset”
................................................. https://youtu.be/KzoKndbYgLo
“Automotive Electronic Modules Types”
................................................. https://youtu.be/BG4N2dBgJrQ
Fig.48: a brake-by-wire system.
HMI stands for human-machine
interface, BLDC is brushless electric DC motor. Note the use of 42V. Source: after Wikimedia user Rhoseinnezhad.
18
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
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Our capabilities
CNC Machining
UV Colour Printing
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Cable Assembly
***
Box Build
Ampec Technologies Pty Ltd
Tel: (02) 8741 5000
Email: sales<at>ampec.com.au Web: www.ampec.com.au
***
System Assembly
All the hard parts are already done for you!
E-Z-2-Build Digital
AM/FM/SW Receiver
Our DAB+/FM/AM Radio from 2019 is very capable and has been
extremely popular. But it is somewhat complicated and costly to build.
Not this one, though! It uses the BK1198 digital radio chip which is
cheap and readily available, and requires only a handful of discrete
components to work. The resulting radio covers the AM and FM
broadcast bands plus shortwave from 2.7 to 22MHz.
by Charles Kosina
20
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
T
he design of radio receivers has
changed dramatically in recent
years.
For many years, the standard AM receiver was a superheterodyne circuit
with a mixer stage that combined the
incoming signal with a local oscillator.
The resulting intermediate frequency signal was then further amplified
and fed into an envelope detector that
extracted the audio component. Finally, audio amplification was provided
to drive a loudspeaker.
When transistors replaced valves,
initially, the design philosophy remained much the same. Such receivers (and those which preceded them,
such as super-regenerative and tuned
radio frequency [TRF] receivers) required multiple tuned circuits, many
of them adjustable.
But with the advancement of technology, analog circuits have largely
been replaced by digital techniques.
The BK1198 is a good example of
this. Its functions are described in the
following PDF document from Jaycar:
siliconchip.com.au/link/ab5n
Jaycar sells the mono version of the
BK1198 separately (Cat ZK8829), as
part of a prebuilt AM/FM portable radio (AR1458) or in their “Cardboard
Radio” kit (Cat KJ9021).
We reckoned that we could do more
with the chip, and build a more capable radio, hence this design.
If you don’t mind using an external
speaker, it fits into a low-cost Jiffy box.
Alternatively, you can use a larger box
and include an internal speaker. Either
way, it delivers 0.9W to the 8Ω speaker.
The current band, tuning range and
frequency are displayed clearly on a
backlit character LCD screen.
It also has a tone control, volume
control, on/off switch and headphone
socket.
So basically, it has everything you
need for listening to AM, FM and SW
broadcasts and not much else, and it’s
easy to drive. It runs off a 9-12V AC
plugpack or 12V DC external battery.
The PCB has been designed with
a mixture of SMD and through-hole
components; we can’t avoid having
SMDs since the BK1198 is not available in any through-hole packages (a
common situation these days).
That being the case, we decided to
use some larger passive SMDs to keep
the overall device compact, without
making it too hard to put together.
Performance
Performance is reasonable for such
a simple design.
On the FM band, I found an internal wire length to be quite adequate
to pick up many stations in the Melbourne area with good quality. I do
have line-of-sight to the Mt Dandenong
towers, however.
The AM band suffers from interference from various sources, and switchmode power supplies in the vicinity
will create background noise. Moving
away from such sources gives reasonable quality.
I got the best results by taking it
into my car and running it off the car
battery.
On the short wave bands, a 1µV sig-
Fig.1: block diagram of the BK1198 radio receiver chip, on which this
project is based. All you have to do is tell it which band(s) you want to
listen to, display its details and amplify the audio output.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
Coverage:
AM:
513-1629kHz
FM:
87-108MHz
SW1: 6.4-10.25MHz
SW2: 2.7-10.25MHz
SW3: 9.8-15MHz
SW4: 14.0-22MHz
(1kHz steps)
(100kHz steps)
(5kHz steps)
(5kHz steps)
(5kHz steps)
(5kHz steps)
nal is detectable, and a 10µV gives a
reasonable signal-to-noise ratio.
Circuit description
While the simplest radio designs
using the BK1198 require only a few
discrete components plus an audio
amplifier, my design is rather more
ambitious, but thanks to the use of
an Arduino Nano, still manageable.
The circuit I came up with is shown
in Fig.1.
There are two ways of controlling
the BK1198 radio chip (IC4), selected
by the MODE pin (pin 5). If this pin is
tied low, it’s controlled by serial data
on the SCLK and SDIO pins. While
this would appear to be the sensible
approach, documentation on how to
do this is rather sparse, and the translation from Chinese leaves a lot to be
desired.
My design leaves this as a future
option, but for now, an analog tuning
approach is used. This means that we
have the jumper on LK1 pulling MODE
up to 3.3V.
A voltage on the BAND pin (pin 15)
selects the band that the BK1198 operates on. There are a total of 18 preprogrammed frequency ranges available, and the simplest way is to have
a voltage divider connected to TUNE1
(pin 1), which is the tuning supply
voltage and very close to 1.2 V. But I
have used a different approach.
The required voltages are:
• AM 2 (513–1629kHz, 9kHz steps);
300mV
• FM 1 (87–108 MHz, 100kHz steps):
33mV
• SW10 (2.7–10.25MHz, 5kHz steps):
1033mV
• SW11 (9.8-22MHz, 5kHz steps):
1100mV
The appropriate voltage is generated
by IC2, an MCP4822 12-bit digital-toanalog converter (DAC). The user controls the band using 6-position rotary
switch S2.
Why six position? I decided to split
up each of the shortwave bands into
two (more on why I did this later).
January 2021 21
SC
Ó
BK1198 BASED DIGITAL AM/FM/SW RADIO RECEIVER
Fig.2: despite receiving FM and AM in three different bands, the radio circuit is relatively simple thanks to the all-in-one
BK1198 digital radio receiver chip (IC4). JFETs Q3 and Q4 provide extra RF gain for shortwave and FM signals respectively,
while inductors L1-L4 provide preselection for different shortwave frequency ranges. Tuning and band switching is controlled
by the Arduino Nano using DACs IC3 (12-bit, for band selection) and IC6 (16-bit, for tuning). IC1 is the audio amplifier.
22
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
16 x 2
LCD MODULE
IC1, IC3, IC6
D2-D5
K
A
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
8
I C4
4
1
16
8
1
January 2021 23
The frequency tuning voltage is generated by another DAC, the DAC8551
(IC6), which has 16-bit resolution. It
needs to be more accurate than the
band selection voltage, hence the higher resolution.
The reference voltage for this DAC is
the 1.2V on pin 1 of IC4 (TUNE1). This
ratiometric approach ensures that an
accurate voltage will be generated regardless of the BK1198 chip variations.
If we take the FM band as an example, there are 210 channels spaced at
100kHz intervals.
The change in channel voltage is
thus 1200mV ÷ 210 = 5.7mV. One bit
of the 16-bit DAC represents about
18.3µV (1.2V ÷ 216), so the digital
value steps by about 311 to switch
from one channel to the next. This is
more than an adequate safety margin
in resolution
It gets a bit tighter on the shortwave
bands. There are 2440 channels spaced
at 5kHz on the 9.8–22MHz band. This
is only 490µV between channels, or a
step-change of 27 in the digital data.
Again, we have a sufficient safety
margin.
But a 12-bit DAC would have less
than two steps between channels,
which would be quite inadequate.
There are two RF inputs on the
BK1198 chip. It receives the FM signal at pin 2. Reference designs include
a preamplifier using an NPN transistor, but I opted to use a grounded-gate
JFET as this gives good gain and a high
stability margin.
The second RF input is on pin 4,
and is for the AM and SW bands. This
presented something of a design challenge. For the AM band, a ferrite rod
of about 400µH is required. An internal varicap tunes the ferrite rod to the
correct frequency.
But there are not many pre-wired
ferrite rods available – the only one
Jaycar sells is their Cat LF1020. I found
the performance of this one not very
satisfactory.
A better option is to use their
LF1012 ferrite rod, which is 180mm
long and 9mm diameter. With 65 turns
of 24AWG (0.5mm diameter) enamelled copper wire, this gives considerably improved performance.
The Q of such a coil is not particularly high, and it is preferable to use
Litz wire, but it is challenging to strip
and tin each strand. Litz wire is used
on the LF1020, and it’s possible to very
carefully remove this winding and slip
24
Silicon Chip
it on the longer rod, giving an almostideal solution.
Shortwave tuning
I felt that a low-noise preamplifier
was desirable for the SW bands, so I
chose the J310 JFET for this as well.
Because I wanted some degree of tuning on this preamplifier, I used different inductors for the various bands,
which brings me back to why I divided up the shortwave bands into two.
My original intention was to use a
readily available varicap diode, type
BB201, which has a range of about
20–110pF with a tuning voltage of
10–0.5V.
This tuning voltage was to be generated by the second DAC in IC3, and
amplified by a rail to rail op-amp running off 12V. The varicap range is such
that it would cover the appropriate
band with the chosen inductor.
By using an appropriate formula,
the tuning voltage could be calculated
by the micro.
However, this just did not seem to
work at all; the best result obtained
was with the varicap set to minimum
capacitance regardless of the band or
frequency.
Based on the BK1198 documentation, I gathered that its internal varicap
only operated on the AM band. But I
suspect that it also works on the SW
bands, although the documentation
does not describe this. The op amp and
varicap of the original prototype were
therefore unnecessary, so I removed
them in the final design.
You will see that there is a 2.2kΩ
resistor from the drain of Q3 to +8V.
Originally, this was a 1000µH RF
choke, which was fine for the shortwave bands, but it completely killed
the AM band because the 100pF capacitor in series resonated within the
Quirks with the BK1198’s
shortwave tuning
My original prototype had a problem
with its SW10 shortwave range; I found
it to actually cover 3.1–10.1MHz rather
than the expected 2.7-10.25MHz range.
As the ranges are set at the factory by
internal programming, this could have
been an anomalous chip. Replacing the
chip gave me the correct range.
Fortunately, if this happens to you, it
is easy to correct by altering just a few
numbers in the program code.
Australia’s electronics magazine
AM band and formed a very effective
series-resonant trap.
By replacing it with a resistor, the
HF performance is not significantly affected, and it has a minimal effect on
the AM band.
Small signal diodes D4 & D5 provide
some measure of protection against
voltage spikes being picked up on the
SW antenna, for example, during a
thunderstorm. Obviously, they cannot
protect against a direct or even nearby
strike, but will prevent damage to Q3
from general lightning activity.
The 100pF coupling capacitor, in
combination with the inductor L1-L4
selected by rotary switch S2a peaks the
shortwave preamp response around
the selected frequency band.
Band selection details
Getting back to band selection, S2b
selects from equally-spaced voltages
between 0 and 5V, generated by a chain
of 2.2kΩ resistors between 5V and 0V.
The selected tap is fed to the internal analog-to-digital converter (ADC)
of the AVR ATmega328 chip on the
Arduino Nano module. This ADC has
a 10-bit resolution, so that the values
read are approximately 0, 204, 409,
613, 818 and 1023.
By truncating the last two digits we
get 0, 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10. Then dividing
by two and adding one gives the selected band number, from one to six.
The Arduino code then uses a lookup
table to find the value needed to generate the appropriate band select voltage for the BK1198 chip.
This is a more versatile arrangement
than using a resistor network to generate the voltage directly, as it can easily be programmed to select any of the
different bands available.
Switch positions 3 and 4 both select
the 2.7-10.25MHz band, and switch
positions 5 and 6 both select the 9.822MHz band. However, different inductor values are chosen as part of
the SW filter by S2a for each shortwave position.
The Arduino Nano module is available at very low cost and has the advantage of providing regulated 5V and
3.3V outputs, which are needed by
other devices in the circuit. Most of
its I/O pins are used. The LCD module is the popular 16x2 type that is
widely available.
The SCL and SDA lines of the Nano
are routed to the BK1198 chip in
case someone can work out how the
siliconchip.com.au
BK1198 serial interface works. The
Nano is a 5V device, while the BK1198
runs from 3.3V.
So schottky diodes D2 and D3 are
used (along with pull-up resistors
to 3.3V) to prevent damage to the
BK1198 IC.
Tuning is controlled via incremental
rotary encoder RE1. The falling edges
of its output pulses generate an interrupt on the INT0 pin (Arduino digital
input D2), at which point the state of
analog/digital input A3 is read.
If it is high, the frequency is increased by the appropriate step, and
if low, it is decreased. This scheme
works with either momentary or level
type encoders.
The pushbutton switch integrated
with the rotary encoder is connected to INT1 (digital input D3). This is
used to toggle between the step sizes
on different bands. On the AM band,
the spacing in Australia is 9kHz, but
the toggle allows for 1kHz step size as
well. On the FM band, only a 100kHz
step size is used, as it does not take too
long to sweep across the band.
All four shortwave bands have step
sizes that can be set to 5kHz, 50kHz
and 500kHz.
Audio amplification
The audio output section is fairly
straightforward. The OUT pin of the
BK1198 chip (pin 13) is capacitively
coupled to volume control potentiometer VR2. The tone control potentiometer (VR3) at minimum resistance
gives a -3dB point of about 700Hz. This
works by forming a variable low-pass
filter in combination with the 2.2kΩ
resistor and 100nF capacitor.
The audio amplifier is an SSM2211
chip which will deliver about 0.9W
into 8Ω. The phono jack is configured
to cut off the signal to the loudspeaker
when phones are inserted. To prevent
hearing damage, a 560Ω resistor reduces the output level to the headphones.
Power supply
The original idea was to run the radio from a 12V DC plugpack. There are
plenty of switchmode ones available,
but they generate so much hash as to
make the AM band all but useless.
You could use one which has an
iron-cored transformer, but they are
almost impossible to buy new now.
Fortunately, Jaycar still sells a 9V AC
plugpack, the MP3027. We use this
and rectify its output using bridge recsiliconchip.com.au
Case holes required for the receiver. No diagram is shown for these as none of
them are super-critical.
tifier BR1. The resulting pulsating DC
is filtered by a 2200µF capacitor and
applied to the input of 7805 regulator REG1.
Don’t be fooled though – this regulator is not producing a 5V output. A
resistive divider between its output,
GND pins and the actual circuit ground
(0V) lifts its output to 8V while retaining decent regulation.
The Nano module has a 5V regulator, which powers the ATmega328 micro and also the audio amplifier.
We don’t want this regulator to drop
too much voltage or else it could overheat. Tests showed that with sustained
maximum audio output, this regulator
does not overheat as long as its input
voltage is no higher than about 8V. So
REG1 is essentially a pre-regulator for
the Arduino’s own 5V regulator.
Note that you could use a 7808 for
REG1, leave out the 330Ω resistor and
replace the 180Ω resistor with a wire
link or 0Ω resistor. However, 7808s are
not as common to find as 7805s are.
By the way, the 100nF capacitor
across the input to bridge rectifier BR1
may seem redundant, but it helps to
filter out any unwanted RF picked up
by the supply leads.
Debugging interface
A simplified RS232 serial interface
is provided by transistors Q1 and Q2,
which operate as level shifters. This
was included purely for debugging
purposes in development, operating at
38,400 baud with the usual 8,N,1 enAustralia’s electronics magazine
coding. These components (and their
15kΩ drain pull-up resistors) may be
omitted if you don’t plan to fiddle with
the software.
Software
The firmware is written in BASCOM,
a versatile BASIC-like language that
compiles into native AVR code.
On power-up, the receiver retrieves
the last frequency and step size for the
set band from EEPROM. The LCD module shows the selected band on the top
line and the set frequency on the bottom line. When another frequency is
selected by the tuning knob, the new
set frequency and current step size is
written into the EEPROM after about
half a second.
Sourcing the components
We know that sourcing components
can be a challenge, so the ones used
in this design were carefully chosen
so that they are available from local
suppliers such as Jaycar, Altronics and
element14. In some cases, you might
have to buy multiples of the one item.
Some of these items might be available more cheaply on eBay, AliExpress
or Banggood, if you don’t mind the
longer lead time.
For the full details, see the parts
list below.
Construction
Refer now to the PCB overlay diagram, Fig.3. The BK1198 radio is built
on a PCB coded CSE200902A which
January 2021 25
measures 127 x 88mm. If you have
some experience soldering surfacemount components, the assembly
should not present any problems for
you. If you don’t, you might want to
practice with something simpler first.
Start by fitting IC6, the 16-bit DAC.
It’s in an eight-pin fine-pitch (0.65mm)
package and does require special care.
First, locate its pin 1 dot in the top corner and line it up with the pin 1 indicator on the PCB. Spread some flux
paste over the pads, place the chip and
carefully tack down one corner pin.
Use a magnifier to verify that the
other seven pins are correctly located
over their pads. If not, re-melt the solder on that tacked pin and gently nudge
it into position.
Repeat until it is precisely located,
then solder all the pins and again use
a magnifier to check for bridges between pins. If you find any, add extra
flux paste and clean up the bridge(s)
using solder wick.
The remaining ICs have twice the
pin pitch (1.27mm), so they should be
fairly easy in comparison. Use a similar technique to fit those, making sure
in each case to check the pin 1 orientation before soldering.
Follow with the four small transistors and the four diodes. Don’t get the
different types of transistors or diodes
mixed up. The orientation of each transistor will be obvious, but you will
have to check (probably under magnification) for the cathode stripe on
26
Silicon Chip
the diodes to determine their correct
orientations.
The SMD resistors and capacitors
are all either 2.0 x 1.2mm or 3.2 x
1.6mm, so again should be fairly easy
and they are not polarised. The SMD
resistors will be printed with a tiny
code on top that identifies their value
(eg, 183 [18 x 103] or 1802 [180 x 102]
indicates 1.8kΩ) while the capacitors
will be unmarked. Make sure each
component goes in the correct location as per Fig.3.
Through-hole parts
Next, fit the low-profile through-hole
parts: the 1W resistor, axial inductors
and the bridge rectifier (watch the orientation – the positive terminal should
be marked).
The watch crystal, X1, is laid over on
its side and held down with a loop of
wire soldered to the board (use a component lead offcut). Be careful bending
and soldering its leads because they
will be very thin, and you don’t want
them shorting against each other or the
crystal case.
Continue by fitting taller parts like
trimpot VR1 (with its adjustment
screw towards BR1), polarised headers CON1-CON3, CON7 & CON9 and
SMA sockets CON5 & CON6. Also fit
the 3-pin header for LK1, and place the
shorting block between pins 1 & 2 and
the socket strips for the Arduino Nano.
Note that you don’t need CON3 unless you plan to use the serial debugAustralia’s electronics magazine
ging feature, and most of the other
headers could be left off if you prefer to
solder flying leads straight to the board.
That will make the final construction
steps a bit more tricky, though. Also,
if you live in a strong signal area, you
could use FM antenna connector CON6
off the board and just solder a length
of wire to its central pad.
Now mount the Arduino Nano module, which can be soldered straight
to the board (it’s usually supplied
with pin header strips) or optionally,
plugged in via female sockets soldered
to the board.
Either way, make sure that its pinout
matches the PCB silkscreen. With that
in place, fit the sole electrolytic capacitor, ensuring its longer lead goes to the
pad marked with a + symbol.
The last part to fit on this side of the
board is inductor L8, which is wound
using six turns of 0.5mm diameter
enamelled copper wire on a 5mm diameter former (such as the shaft of a
5mm drill bit).
Space out the windings so that the
coil is 7mm long, then cut it to length,
strip the enamel off the ends of the
wires (using emery paper or a sharp
knife), tin the wires and solder the coil
to the board where shown.
Underside components
We have seen LCDs with pins 1
(GND) and 2 (+5V) swapped, so check
your screen. If pin 2 is GND, you will
need to cut the header pins off and add
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.3 (left): the PCB uses a
mix of SMD and through-hole
components. Start by fitting the
only fine-pitch SMD, IC6, then
the remaining SMDs (don’t
forget the two caps under the
Nano!), followed by the topside through-hole parts and
finally, those which mount
on the underside (mainly the
display and controls). There
are a few optional components,
such as the debugging header
CON3. This diagram also
shows most of the external
wiring.
At right, the photo shows the
assembled PCB mounted in the
case. Note that this is an early
prototype board so there could
be some minor differences
between this and the PCB
overlay opposite.
wires to cross these connections over.
The LCD screen mounts on the underside of the board. Solder its header
strip in place, then check that it has a
pin header attached; if not, solder it
now. Plug it into the socket and attach
it to the board using the tapped spacers
and machine screws.
With the LCD in place, the remaining underside components can be fitted: rotary encoder RE1, rotary switch
S1, volume control potentiometer VR2
and tone control potentiometer VR3.
Preparing the ferrite rod
antenna
As explained earlier, you probably
won’t find a 400µH ferrite rod that
comes pre-fitted with a coil. The easiest and best solution is to also buy a
smaller ferrite rod antenna, such as
the Jaycar LF1020, carefully remove
the windings from that rod and then
gently slip them over the longer rod.
If you can’t (or don’t want to) do
that, instead wind 65 turns of 0.5mm
enamelled copper wire onto the rod,
and strip and tin the ends, ready for
attachment to the PCB via flying leads.
Programming
You can program the Arduino Nano
module separately, or plugged into the
main board, but it’s easier before you
plug it in.
As the code is written in BASCOM,
you can’t use the Arduino IDE to program the chip. We suggest a free prosiliconchip.com.au
gram called AVRDUDE or (preferably)
its Windows graphical version, AVRDUDESS. Download and install it from:
https://blog.zakkemble.net/avrdudessa-gui-for-avrdude/
Launch it and find the dropdown
under the label “Presets” in the upper right-hand corner of the window,
click the drop-down and select the “Arduino Nano (ATmega328P)” option.
In the upper left-hand corner, modify
the COM port number to match your
Nano. Once you have plugged it in,
you can find its port number in Windows’ “Bluetooth and other devices”
Settings page.
Under the “Flash” heading, click
the “...” button and find the radio HEX
file (available as a download from the
SILICON CHIP website). Then ensure
“Write” is selected just below this and
Radio Source Code
As usual, we will be making the source
code available for this project, along with
the HEX file.
The firmware was written in BASCOMAVR, a version of the BASIC language that
compiles to native Atmel AVR code. So
it is quite easy to modify.
BASCOM is commercial software;
there is a free demo version available
which can produce binaries up to 4KB
in size, but the radio software is larger
than that. A full license for the software
costs around $150 (it’s available from a
few different online shops)
Australia’s electronics magazine
press “Go”. Messages will appear at the
bottom of the window, hopefully indicating that the programming was successful. The most likely cause of any
problem an incorrect port selection.
Finally, unplug the USB cable from
the Arduino Nano module and plug it
into your radio board. The board assembly is now complete.
Testing
It’s a good idea to do a little bit of
testing before you put the board in the
case, as it is easier to debug and fix in
its current state. You will need some
sort of antenna connected to verify that
the radio is working – at this stage, the
FM antenna is probably the easiest to
organise. A length of wire might be
good enough for initial testing.
You will also probably want to temporarily connect an 8Ω speaker between pins 1 and 3 of CON7.
Position the board so that you can
see the LCD and access the controls,
and connect a 9V AC or 12V DC power
supply to CON1. Verify that the LCD
backlight switches on and you get a
sensible display on the LCD screen. If
you can’t see the characters, try adjusting trimpot VR1.
If the backlight doesn’t come on,
then that points to a power supply
problem – check the output of REG1
and verify that it is a steady 8V or so.
If you still don’t get any display,
then there may be a problem with the
programming of the Arduino Nano
January 2021 27
module, or perhaps the Nano or LCD
are not making good contact with
their sockets.
Assuming the display looks OK, rotate S2 to get the unit into FM mode
and then try turning RE1 to find a station.
28
Silicon Chip
Adjust VR2 to get a sensible volume from the speaker. If you can pick
up stations then it’s all looking good.
If not, you might need a better antenna, or you could have a problem in or
around transistor Q4, IC4, crystal X1
or audio amplifier IC1.
Australia’s electronics magazine
If you want to test the other bands,
then you will need to connect up a
shortwave antenna to CON5 and/or
the ferrite rod to CON2.
Assuming it all checks out, proceed to finish the build. If you run
into problems, it’s always a good idea
siliconchip.com.au
Parts list – AM/FM/SW Digital Receiver
1 double-sided PCB coded CSE200902A, 127 x 88mm
1 5V Arduino Nano module
1 16x2 blue backlit alphanumeric LCD module
1 220 x 160 x 80mm IP65 sealed ABS enclosure or similar
with black 3mm acrylic laser-cut lid/panel, 193 x 109mm(?)
(fits internal speaker), OR
1 UB2 Jiffy box, 197 x 113 x 63mm (no internal speaker)
1 10kW single-turn mini vertical (SIL) trimpot (VR1)
[eg, element14 9317236]
2 9mm vertical 10kW potentiometer (VR2, VR3)
[eg, element14 1191725]
1 2.2µH axial RF inductor (L1) [eg, element14 1167666]
1 4.7µH axial RF inductor (L2) [eg, element14 1180375]
1 10µH axial RF inductor (L3) [eg, element14 1180270]
1 33µH axial RF inductor (L4) [eg, element14 1857853]
1 100µH axial RF inductors (L9) [eg, element14 2858897]
1 1m length of 0.5mm diameter enamelled copper wire
(L8 and possibly L10)
1 400µH ferrite rod (L10)
1 coil taken from ferrite rod antenna (L10)
1 32768Hz watch crystal (X1) [Jaycar RQ5297]
1 rotary encoder with inbuilt pushbutton (RE1) [eg,
element14 2663519]
1 SPST chassis-mount toggle switch (S1)
1 2-pole, 6-position rotary switch (S2) [Jaycar SR1212]
3-4 knobs (to suit VR2, VR3 [if fitted], RE1 & S2)
3 2-pin polarised headers (CON1,CON2,CON9)
[Jaycar HM3412]
3 2-pin polarised plugs (for CON1,CON2,CON9)
[Jaycar HM3402]
2 3-pin polarised headers (CON3,CON7) [Jaycar HM3413]
2 3-pin polarised plugs (for CON3,CON7) [Jaycar HM3403]
2 right-angle or vertical PCB-mount SMA sockets (CON5,CON6)
[eg, element14 2612349]
1 6.35mm switched stereo chassis-mount jack socket
(CON8) [Jaycar PS0184 or similar]
2 15-pin female header sockets (for the Nano; can be cut
down from longer strips)
1 16-pin female header socket (for the LCD)
1 3-pin header with jumper/shorting block (LK1)
1 2.1mm inner diameter bulkhead barrel socket
[Jaycar PS0522 or similar]
1 8W 1W full-range speaker driver (eg, 76mm if mounting in
a larger box) or an external 8W speaker)
4 knobs (size as required)
4 8mm-long M3 tapped spacer (for mounting LCD)
4 15mm-long M3 tapped spacers (for mounting PCB to box)
12 M3 x 5mm panhead machine screws
4 M3 x 10mm countersunk head screws
various lengths of shielded and hookup wire
to carefully inspect all of your solder
joints, while also verifying that the
right parts are in the right locations,
and any polarised components have
not been soldered in the wrong way
around.
Final construction
If you’re building the radio into the
smaller and cheaper UB2 Jiffy box,
siliconchip.com.au
Semiconductors
1 SSM2211SZ or NCS2211DR2G 1.5W audio power
amplifier, SOIC-8 (IC1) [element14 2464727]
1 MCP4822-E/SN dual 12-bit DAC, SOIC-8 (IC3)
[element14 1439414]
1 BK1198VB digital radio receiver, SOIC-16 (IC4)
[Jaycar ZK8829]
1 DAC8551IDGKT 16-bit DAC, VSSOP-8 (IC6)
[element14 1693841]
1 7805 5V 1A linear regulator (REG1)
2 2N7002 N-channel Mosfets, SOT-23 (Q1,Q2)
[element14 1764537]
2 MMBFJ310LT1G N-channel VHF/UHF JFETs, SOT-23 (Q3,Q4)
[element14 1431340]
1 DB104 bridge rectifier, DIP-4 (BR1)
2 BAT54T1G schottky diodes, SOD-123 (D2,D3)
2 1N4148WS signal diodes, SOD-323F (D4,D5)
Capacitors (through-hole)
1 2200µF 16V electrolytic
Capacitors (SMD M3216/1206-size)
4 10µF 25V X7R ceramic
3 1µF 25V X7R ceramic
Capacitors (SMD M2012/0805-size)
1 10µF 25V X7R ceramic
9 100nF 50V X7R ceramic
2 10nF 50V X7R ceramic
1 1nF 50V X7R ceramic
1 100pF 50V C0G/NP0 ceramic
1 33pF 50V C0G/NP0 ceramic
3 18pF 50V C0G/NP0 ceramic
Resistors (all SMD M3216/1206-size 1% thick film unless
otherwise specified)
1 10MW M2012/0805-size
1 270kW M2012/0805-size
1 220kW
1 56kW
1 18kW
5 15kW
1 10kW
2 4.7kW
7 2.2kW
1 560W
1 330W
1 180W
2 100W
1 100W 1W 5% axial
you can either use our laser-cut lid,
or drill and cut holes in the lid that
came with your box.
Fig.4 shows the details of the cutouts in our custom lid. You could cut
a piece of ~3mm thick plastic to this
size and make the cut-outs, but it’s
probably easier to just print this (it’s
available as a PDF download from our
website) and use it as a template on
Australia’s electronics magazine
(code 106)
(code 274)
(code 224)
(code 563)
(code 183)
(code 153)
(code 103)
(code 472)
(code 222)
(code 561)
(code 331)
(code 181)
(code 101)
(code brown black brown gold)
the existing Jiffy box lid.
The laser cutter can’t make countersunk holes for the PCB mounting
screws, so whether you’re using a premade lid or cutting your own, you will
need to use a countersinking tool to
profile those four holes on the outside
face of the panel.
It’s also a good idea to attach a panel label. The artwork we’ve prepared
January 2021 29
The see-through
case shows how the
electronics mounts to
the lid/front panel – and
because you can see
the “works”, also adds
to the intrigue of this
radio!
is available as a PDF download from
siliconchip.com.au
Print it onto adhesive paper (see
siliconchip.com.au/Help/FrontPanels
for details) or print it onto regular paper and laminate it.
You can then cut the panel to size
and cut out the holes with a sharp hobby knife. But before you glue it to the
lid, attach the PCB to the rear so that
you can hide the mounting screws.
The radio board attaches to the back
of the lid using the 15mm spacers, with
countersunk screws through the lid
and regular machine screws holding
the PCB to the spacers. Once the panel
has been glued in place, you can attach
the nuts to hold the potentiometer(s),
rotary encoder and rotary switch to
the panel, then attach the knobs (after cutting down any shafts which are
too long).
The power on/off switch (S1) and
headphone socket (CON8) mount in
the hole provided on the front panel. You will also need to drill a hole
somewhere in the side of the box for
the barrel power socket. While you’re
at it, decide where in the case you are
going to mount the ferrite rod, and if
fitting an internal speaker, that too (you
will need to drill sound and mounting holes).
Once you drop the lid into the box,
the FM and SW sockets will be accessible via holes in the left-hand side.
Alternative, smaller . . . and slightly cheaper . . . version
As mentioned earlier in the text and shown in the parts list, we
have made a second version of the AM/FM/SW receiver which is
not only more compact, it is also a little cheaper to build.
It uses the same BK1198 receiver module; in fact, the electron
ics is virtually identical. The main difference is that it doesn’t have
an internal speaker, relying instead on headphones or earpieces.
(The photo above shows a 3.5mm adapator plugged into a standard
6.35mm socket, so it will take the vast majority of headphone types.)
The other difference is that it uses a standard UB2 jiffy box instead
of the more expensive (and larger) ABS case.
The photos show how the assembled BK1198 receiver board is
an easy fit in the smaller case.
Construction is basically the same as the larger version. Like the
30
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Temporarily insert the lid into the box
and mark out the locations, then drill
these holes large enough to get cables
onto those connectors.
One of the last steps is to make up
the wires and plugs for the ferrite rod,
power supply and switch and speaker/
headphone socket.
For the ferrite rod, this is simple;
you just need to attach a two-way
plug to the end of a short piece of
shielded cable or twin-lead. The polarity doesn’t matter, but it must be
long enough to reach CON2 before
the lid is attached to the case. Solder
this to the primary winding on the
ferrite rod.
If you’re using a pre-made coil, it
might have two pairs of wires, so use
the pair with the highest (but noninfinite) resistance reading between
them.
The power wiring is slightly more
complicated (see Fig.3); one pin of
CON1 (it doesn’t matter which) goes
straight to the outer barrel contact of
the socket, while the other pin goes to
the central pin contact via switch S1.
If your switch has more than two contacts, pick two which are connected
when the switch toggle is down but
open when up.
One possible pitfall is that barrel
sockets often have three solder tabs,
one of which is disconnected when a
plug is inserted. So make sure the outer
barrel contact you solder to is not that
one. It’s easiest to check by inserting a
plug, then soldering to the tab which
has continuity to the outer barrel.
Finally, wire up the headphone
socket and speaker as per Figs. 1 &3.
Start by identifying the switched and
unswitched tip and ring contacts on
the socket and joining them together,
turning it into a mono socket. Connect
the sleeve tab back to the middle pin
of the plug for CON7. The contacts
which connect to the ring and sleeve
when a plug is inserted then go to pin
1 of CON7.
Then wire the unused pair of head-
larger version, the PCB assembly “hangs” from the case lid,
with suitable cutouts for the display, controls and ’phones
socket.
phone socket contacts to one end of
the speaker, and the other end of the
speaker back to pin 3 of CON7.
Note that if you’re building it into
the UB2 Jiffy box and using an external
speaker, you will have to run a pair of
wires out of an extra hole in the case
to your external speaker. Alternatively,
fit a two pin (or more) connector somewhere on the box, with a matching plug
for the external speaker.
One good option for this external
speaker is to use an unpowered computer speaker, which usually has a
3.5mm jack plug fitted, then use a
3.5mm jack socket to connect it back
to the radio board.
Once all this wiring is complete, you
can plug all the wires into the appropriate headers on the board, then give
it all a final test before buttoning it up
(ie, attaching the lid to the box). You
should be able to do this using the selftapping screws supplied with the box.
You can now enjoy listening to your
radio!
Front panel artwork, as shown in the photo opposite, can
also be downloaded from siliconchip.com.au – this can also
SC
be used as a drilling template.
Lid drilling detail for the Jiffy Box version. This, along with front panel artwork to suit is available from siliconchip.com.au
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
January 2021 31
“Hands On” Review by Tim Blythman
and
Altium Designer, which we use to design PCBs and draft circuits,
can trace its history back over 30 years to the Australian-designed
Protel PCB software. With design complexity increasing, collaboration is
becoming even more critical, and this is what Altium 365 aims to achieve.
We also have a brief overview of some new features in AD21.
A
s part of our review of Altium Designer 20 in December 2019 (siliconchip.com.au/Article/12176),
we attended the “Altium Roadshow”, which is only
one of many events held for Altium subscribers. They also
regularly hold ‘webinars’ and other online information and
education sessions.
As we noted in that review, many people are still using
versions of Altium Designer as old as version 14. But us-
ers who want to make full use of Altium 365 will need to
run Altium Designer 20 or later.
Altium 365
You might have seen a glimpse of Altium 365 in our
April 2020 Product Showcase (siliconchip.com.au/
Article/13816).
That short piece hinted that Altium 365 is pitched at those
Where it all began: hands up if you
remember the now-30-year-old
Autotrax (and its companion Traxedit),
seen here running on the first personal
computer that SILICON CHIP owned – a
128kb, twin floppy IBM PC!
32
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
with no CAD tools
or experience, but
this is far from the
full story.
Altium 365 (of
which Altium 365
Viewer is only a
small part) is a
cloud-based companion to Altium
Designer and provides tools and
features which, we
think, will be useful to many people.
In our review of
Altium Designer
20, we noted that being such a small team, we are not
sure how we would make use of the cloud features of
Altium 365. Most of our PCBs are planned, designed,
built and tested by one or two people.
With working from home now more common, we
decided to look more closely at Altium 365’s features
for those occasions when feedback or collaboration are
needed. It turns out that it has other features that are
very useful to us too. In fact, many people who have
never used Altium Designer could make good use of
Altium 365.
There are four different ways of working with Altium 365.
The Viewer is
similar to the one
built into Altium
Designer. You can
click on items to see
properties and even
render and navigate
a 3D view of the
PCB or assembly.
The Viewer can
be embedded in an
external webpage
(for example, on
your own website),
with configurable
features such as a
variety of export
formats.
Naturally, you can’t edit files using the Viewer. The
Viewer also lacks the collaborative features of Altium 365.
Altium 365 Basic
At its simplest level, Altium Viewer allows designs
(circuits, PCB etc) to be viewed in a web browser by
anyone – see Screen1. You don’t need an Altium subscription or even an Altium Live registration.
The Viewer is found at www.altium.com/viewer/
You can go there right now, click on “View Example
Project” and get a pretty good idea of what it can do.
Altium Viewer allows several CAD and CAM formats
to be uploaded and viewed; not just Altium Designer
files. For example, Altium Viewer supports loading
and viewing EAGLE designs, and support for KiCad
files is planned.
To use Altium 365 Basic, you need to register on the Altium Live website. The process here is similar to most online services; your account is linked to an email address.
If you are currently using Altium Designer, then you
most likely have an Altium Live registration already and
use it for your Altium license.
If you have an Altium subscription, then you can also
make use of the Standard version of Altium 365, which
includes integration with Altium Designer.
To access these services, you need to go to http://365.
altium.com/ and log in to your Altium Live account.
Apart from the Viewer, Altium 365 is based around the
concept of “Workspaces”, which are typically tied to an
Altium Licence and thus a specific organisation. The easiest way of getting access to a particular Workspace (and
also easily set up an Altium Live login) is to be invited by
someone who has access to that Workspace.
An invitation sends an email which will also prompt
for information to complete the registration process, if
that has not already happened. After that, you’ll be taken
to the Workspace.
Altium 365 Basic is intended for those users who don’t
Screen1: even if you don’t have an Altium Live account,
you can use Altium 365’s Viewer. It can handle several
CAD formats and provides a similar view and interface to
Altium Designer.
Screen2: the Projects view in the web portal shows a
preview of each project and a brief summary, including
information about recent changes. Clicking on any project
allows it to be viewed, with a similar interface to Altium
Designer.
Altium 365 Viewer
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
January 2021 33
With external parties, it is often desirable to carefully
control the way that designs are shared, especially in fields
where ‘intellectual property’ is tightly guarded.
Rather than having to import a file, the cloud nature of
Altium 365 allows projects to be stored and managed online (see Screen2). Typically, a project will be uploaded by
someone using Altium Designer.
Once a project is opened, the window appears very similar to the Viewer, but with more options, including a function to open it in Altium Designer.
Many different views are available in Altium 365 Basic,
besides those which are available in Altium Designer. For
example, Project History provides a graphical, chronological view of changes that have occurred in a project (as
shown in Screen3).
Altium 365 Standard
have an Altium subscription and don’t use Altium Designer, but work closely with those who do.
For example, inside our small organisation, the staff
members who lay out our articles do not need to use Altium Designer, but could benefit from being able to view
and comment on designs, or even render specific views of
a PCB for publication.
One of the apparent benefits is being able to share information with those outside your organisation, such as PCB
manufacturers and assemblers.
Effectively, Altium 365 Standard is available for all Altium Designer 20 users who have a current subscription.
It is well integrated into AD20. Apart from logging in to
use your license, you just need to activate the Workspace
within Altium Designer.
Indeed, this is probably the best way to make use of
it. To start using Altium 365, click on the cloud icon at
upper right and click on the Workspace, which will connect Altium Designer to the Workspace (Screen4).
While Altium 365 Basic allows Altium Designer files to
be viewed online, Altium 365 Standard also provides the
option to make files available online.
Unlike other cloud solutions where the files are simply
stored elsewhere, a formal version control system (based on
the widely used open-source VCS Git) keeps synchronised
copies (and backups) both locally and remotely.
This means that, for example, others who have access
to your Workspace can not only see the current version of
the design but can also go back and look at how it evolved,
who made what changes, and even ‘undo’ mistaken edits.
To use these features, from the Projects Panel, right-click
the project name and click the “Make Project Available Online…” option. A dialog box appears, allowing some properties to be set (Screen5). Set the option to Enable Formal
Version Control unless you have your own version control
system in place.
After this, the project moves to the Altium 365 workspace. Some extra status icons appear in the Projects Panel
relating to the version control. Some more menu options
Screen3: the History feature in the web portal shows a
summary of changes to a project, and is a visual guide to
the version control, such as edits and releases and who
made them. The three-dot buttons in the corner of each
panel allow a snapshot to be downloaded or cloned.
Screen4: the small cloud icon in the top right corner of
Altium Designer can be used to connect to your company’s
Workspace and thus Altium 365. Our Workspace is named
Concord Pro, reflecting that Altium 365 is a progression of
the older Concord platform.
The Basic version of Altium 365 provides these menu
options for managing your workspace. It’s all very intuitive
to navigate and work with.
34
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Screen5: connecting Altium Designer to Workspace on
Altium 365 adds the option of making projects available
online and can provide version control, which is
recommended unless you use your own internal version
control.
relating to version control appear too (see Screen6).
Updating the ‘cloud’ version of your project is as simple
as saving it, then using the Version Control menu to commit the file or project. If you don’t save, you are prompted
to do so, ensuring this happens when needed.
At this stage, the files are available in the cloud, but are
not necessarily visible to other users in the Workspace.
By default, they are not visible to anyone except administrators and the person who uploaded them. This aspect
is carefully controlled so that you can limit who can view
and edit your files.
These features are even handy for people working solo,
as they now have access to cloud-backed versions of their
designs. It’s useful as a backup if nothing else.
Sharing projects with other people can be done with
varying degrees of granularity. There are options to provide view-only or full (edit) access, as well as being able
to set up groups of people to streamline this process (see
Screen7). Once designs have been shared like this, users
with Basic access can view the designs.
One useful collaborative feature is the ability to place
comments on the designs. Comments can be applied to
schematics (circuit diagrams) or PCB files, and can be
viewed and edited through both Altium Designer and the
Altium 365 Basic portal. This streamlines communication
between those who have access to Altium Designer and
those who do not.
Once the issue has been resolved, the comment can be
marked as such and it disappears, so as not to clutter the
display.
Once a PCB design is complete, the design goes through
a ‘release’ process, which produces an output job (for example, creating Gerber files). After this, the Manufacture
section is populated with the output files, which can also
be viewed through the web portal.
Sharing
As well as integrating with those people who are working
siliconchip.com.au
Screen6: joining a workspace and enabling version control
adds numerous options to the Projects panel. Simply
committing the project will prompt for any other actions
that need to be done before the project is synchronised and
up to date.
Screen7: when connected to a workspace, new icons appear
that reflect the state of the project, including whether it is
correctly synchronised with the online version control.
Pushing changes into shared projects is as simple as rightclicking and choosing the correct option; you will be
prompted to save if necessary.
Australia’s electronics magazine
January 2021 35
Screen8: the component search window provides many fields, including some optimised for specific component types.
Parts can be compared, including live information like supplier stock levels and prices.
on files using Altium 365 Basic, it’s also possible to share
designs with people who don’t. In this case, the recipient
is sent a link, and the file is made available through the
Altium 365 Viewer interface.
Either a generic link can be generated (making the file
available to anyone who has the link), or the link can be sent
directly to a specific person, which also makes it possible
for that person to comment. The links expire after 48 hours.
Components
Managing component and part libraries is also integrated into Altium 365. This makes it easy to monitor component designs, check that they are consistent and current,
and manage their life cycle.
Once logged in to the Altium 365 workspace in Altium
Designer, you have access to the Workspace’s shared component library (see Screen8). This is accessible through the
web portal (Altium 365 Basic) too. The Library Migrator
menu item under File menu can be used to import a local
library into Altium 365.
This shared component library is one of the most useful
features for us, so once one member of the team has created a component symbol and footprint, anyone can use
it from then on.
Mechanical integration
Altium 365 Standard also offers tools relating to managing workflows. The MCAD Plugins option offers interfaces to Solidworks, Autodesk Inventor and PTC Creo. More
similar options might become available in the future. This
allows people working on aspects of the mechanical design or even marketing to be involved without requiring a
full Altium license.
36
Silicon Chip
Our review of Altium Designer 20 covered some of the
handy mechanical design features that are now available.
Beyond being able to view and import mechanical designs
in, say, Solidworks, it’s possible to make edits to the mechanical design and push those changes back to Altium
Designer.
Changes need to be effected within Altium Designer
and saved back into the cloud; these changes can then be
checked from within Solidworks. Unfortunately, we don’t
use any of these tools, so we weren’t able to test these features out.
Altium 365 Pro
The kind folks at Altium also allowed us to try an evaluation version of Altium 365 Pro. This works similarly to
Altium 365 Standard, integrating Altium Designer 20 with
the cloud portal, but offers more features.
If you have used Altium Concord Pro or Vault, then
you might be familiar with some of the features of Altium
365 Pro.
Component management
A significant feature of Altium 365 Pro is component
management, which goes beyond what is available in the
Standard version.
These features are available through the Properties panel
and the Components panel.
Much of what Altium 365 can do with components is
drawn from the Octopart database (https://octopart.com/)
which is operated by Altium.
Octopart aggregates supplier and manufacturer data,
which is accessed seamlessly through Altium 365. Altium
365 Pro can also draw on other supply chain information
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Screen9: the Components panel now shows (at the
bottom) information about which projects appears (Where
Used). This can help streamline component changes and
replacements by flagging which projects might need to be
changed as a consequence of a component change.
Screen10: Altium 365’s component management makes
it easier to deal with obsolete parts by flagging the
component state and allowing parts to be updated as
needed.
providers, such as IHS Markit. There’s even the option of
customising the progression of the component lifecycle
through its various transitions. This can be viewed through
the web portal, but can only be set through Altium Designer
20, once it has connected with an Altium 365 Pro workspace.
With all libraries and projects connected through the
cloud platform, other features become possible. For example, the Component Panel now features a “Where Used”
section (Screen9).
When a part is selected, this section displays the projects
which use a given component.
This provides an easy way to deal with part obsolescence
or manufacturing problems with a particular component.
When a part needs to be replaced or altered, Where Used
can quickly identify the affected projects and allow them
to be adjusted as necessary (Screen10).
This might involve creating a new version of the part,
perhaps with a different footprint to correct a manufacturing issue. Or a new part can be substituted once an old
part is unavailable. Changes to projects can be tagged with
the reason for the change under version control, providing traceability.
Component templates
Another feature that Altium 365 Pro includes is Component Templates, which are templates for common components such as resistors. The principle is that a circuit can
be laid out using template components, which have only
the minimum necessary information attached (for example, resistance).
This prevents the schematic design from being bogged
down with needing information that is not necessary at that
stage. The other parameters can be configured later.
siliconchip.com.au
For example, a resistor can be set to require composition,
current rating, diameter or lead pitch (amongst others) or
none of these at all. Default values can be set too.
Templates are set up with sample data in the Altium 365
Pro workspace, so these can be used immediately.
Like some of the other Pro features, this appears to be
aimed at larger teams, where one team member might be
responsible for drawing the circuit, and another can work
independently on choosing the correct parts to use.
Parts Requests
Another feature which is handy for larger teams, especially those that may have dedicated staff for maintaining
component libraries, is Parts Request. As the name suggests, a user can request a part to be created and added to
the Library.
There are fields for manufacturer part number, request
state, component type, date required and room to add attachments (for example, data sheets) and notes.
The act of assigning the task triggers an email to the necessary person to initiate the process. This is done through
the web portal, so can be initiated by anyone with an Altium Live login.
Teams
Altium 365 Pro also offers the option to customise and
tailor people’s roles (and their capabilities) via team management. Larger organisations might need to create finegrained permissions, especially if there are similar roles
within different projects, requiring differing policies.
A simplified version of the Teams option exists within
the Standard version of Altium 365 Standard, with a limited number of roles available.
Australia’s electronics magazine
January 2021 37
Screen11: this feature was already available in Altium
Designer 20, but we only just found out about it! A
keypress (CTRL-W) will show you clearance outlines
during interactive routing. Note how the gaps between the
pins at lower-right are completely pinched off (but might
open up if a narrower track is chosen). No more guessing
whether or not a track will fit!
Screen12: another new feature of Altium Designer 21 is
single sign-on (SSO) support to streamline users logging in.
This allows people to use their usual company credentials
to log in to an existing Altium Live account (giving access
to the company license to use the software)
Cost
Altium has a simple price model for Altium 365 Pro. It
is $500 per year for each ‘seat’ that you have for Altium
Designer. It can only be applied to all seats within a given license.
Note that you could have more people than seats; the
seat number sets the maximum number of people that can
use the software simultaneously.
There are servers located around the globe. Currently,
Australian clients connect to a server in Singapore, although
that might change in the future.
We think that most Altium users could benefit from using Altium 365 Pro, but those who will get the most out of
it will be larger organisations, who have the most to gain
from the Pro features.
Working from home
Now with many people working from home (indeed, I’m
writing this at home), a state of affairs that could continue
for a while (or perhaps indefinitely), using tools like Altium 365 to keep teams working smoothly together makes
a lot of sense.
Even in our small team, we found that using Altium 365
was quicker and easier than trying to package and email
projects or use a shared drive; the web interface works as
intuitively as Altium Designer and the integration between
the two is excellent.
We are in the process of moving our library into the shared
library in our Altium 365 workspace. That will allow us
to synchronise added parts more smoothly than when we
were working in the same office!
Altium Designer 21
Many of the changes in Altium Designer 20 were intended to smooth the way for new features to appear in future
releases. Some of these new features make an appearance
in Altium Designer 21.
One such feature is dynamic polygons. Instead of having to repour polygons (large copper areas) manually, the
PCB editor will do it as needed.
38
Silicon Chip
This might sound like a minor feature, but it will certainly make working on large PCBs with ground and power
planes less of a hassle.
Interactive routing will also check for signal integrity
whilst routing is occurring. This is handy for those working with differential pairs and other high-speed designs.
Around 50% of Altium users work on designs operating
at or above 1GHz, and they stand to benefit the most from
this feature.
Also, length tuning options now include trombone and
sawtooth patterns.
Altium Designer 20 introduced an improved simulation
engine, and AD21 makes better use of it. There is now a
Simulation Dashboard which operates somewhat like a
software wizard, stepping through the stages needed to set
up and run simulations. AD21 also has a generic simulator
library for many standard component types.
Design Rules
AD21 can define design rules on a per-object basis, and
objects have rules as characteristics. This is in addition
to the existing Design Rules window and can be found by
switching to Document view or by adding a Design Rule
to a selected object.
Flex PCBs
Support for flexible (and mixed rigid/flex) PCBs continues to improve. It’s still a bit more expensive to get these
made than standard, rigid fibreglass PCBs, but Altium and
many manufacturers are embracing the possibilities.
With AD21, it is possible to add more complex bends
to flexible PCB designs and then animate these in the 3D
view (using the ‘5’ key shortcut).
This is a great aid to visualising that flexible designs are
correct. These different views can be captured and used
in the Draftsman drawing creator to help others to understand the intended product.
As we’ve heard Altium say before, this continuous improvement is necessary for them to stay competitive. We
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Helping to put you in Control
RG-9 Optical Rain Sensor
Hydreon RG-9 Solid State Rain Sensor is a
rainfall sensing device intended to detect
and communicate when a pre-selected rain
intensity has been reached.
SKU: HYS-005
Altium 365 currently integrates with three different
mechanical CAD platforms. Changes can be made in
MCAD and pushed back to Altium, for example if the
mechanical team need to make changes to the board shape
or mounting holes.
Price: $99.00 ea + GST
Solar Temperature Controller
Designed for solar water heating applications.
Two NTC-type temperature sensor inputs and
two control output. 12 to 30 VDC Powered.
SKU: CET-036
Price: $122.80 ea + GST
look forward to using these new features.
Large Temperature Display
Another useful feature
While investigating AD21, we also discovered some
useful features introduced in AD20 that we didn’t know
about. During interactive routing, it is possible to display
clearance boundaries (CTRL-W key shortcut or as an option while routing is paused with TAB) – see Screen11.
Large Temperature Indicator with range
-19.9 to 99.0 °C.
SKU: HNI-080
Price: $315.00 ea + GST
Summary
Altium 365 strikes a good balance for a cloud platform.
The usual criticism is of losing control of one’s files, but
Altium’s version control ensures that both local and cloud
copies are synchronised and backed up. Indeed, simply
having an automatic online backup of your local files is a
handy feature.
Many of the useful cloud features are available for free
with the Viewer and Basic platforms, or at no extra cost (beyond licensing Altium Designer) for the Standard platform.
For securely sharing (and keeping copies) of files and
projects, the experience is quite seamless.
We’ll definitely make good use of the shared component library, as this is one aspect of PCB design that can
quickly become fragmented even within a small team. A
single, shared library will be much easier to maintain, and
will ensure that a consistent style is maintained between
our designs.
It will also mean that if one of us discovers an error and
fixes it, it will be fixed for us all.
With it becoming easier to import components from online sources, we expect to spend less time creating and
managing components in the future.
For those who don’t have an Altium licence, it’s now
possible to try out many of its features at no cost with Altium 365 Viewer.
We definitely recommend that anyone that uses Altium
Designer have a look at Altium 365, given that they can
take advantage of the features of the Standard version at
no additional cost.
A good way to start is to join one of the frequent webinars that are available to Altium license holders. For more
information, visit http://365.altium.com/
Thanks to Altium for providing us with a trial of Altium
SC
365 Pro for our review.
siliconchip.com.au
NEMA 42 Open-Loop Stepper Motor
Large 20NM single shaft NEMA 42, 2 phase
bipolar stepper motor with 20.0 N.m of holding
torque. Rated at 6 A phase current, weighing
8.4 kg with 150 mm body length and 21.55 mm
shaft diameter.
SKU: MOT-176
Price: $307.30 ea + GST
1-Wire Digital Temperature Sensor
DS18B20 Temperature Sensor with copper
screw clip probe and a 3 metre cable.
Connector is an option.
SKU: GJS-006
Price: $23.95 ea + GST
Wind Speed Sensor 0-10VDC Output
Easy to use wind speed sensor up 60m/sec with 0
to 10VDC signal output and 1.5 meter cable.
SKU: RKS-002
Price: $169.95 ea + GST
Raw & Waste Water Level Sensor 0-10m with 20m Cable
2 wire 4 to 20 mA liquid level sensor 0-10m.
Suitable for raw and waste water. Supplied
with 20m cable.
SKU: IBP-110
Price: $429.00 ea + GST
For Wholesale prices
Contact Ocean Controls
Ph: (03) 9708 2390
oceancontrols.com.au
Prices are subjected to change without notice.
Australia’s electronics magazine
January 2021 39
THE MiniHEART:
A Miniature Heartbeat Simulator
Give a favourite soft toy a beating heart! With both soft sound and a real
beat, it could relax a baby, puppy or kitten for sleeping, or even help you
sleep better yourself. All are possible with the SILICON CHIP MiniHEART!
M
any newborns – human babies as well as pets –
are unsettled when left alone to sleep. They miss
their mum, and it’s lonely and frightening for
them. Just being able to cuddle up to the sound of a heartbeat can help with their anxiety.
The MiniHeart is a small gizmo that produces a low-level
soothing heartbeat sound, mimicking that of a real heart.
The beat rate can be adjusted so that it more accurately
matches the rate of the heart it is to emulate, while a timer
will shut off the heartbeat after a set time.
The unit is switched on and off with a toggle switch
with the actuating lever only protruding slightly outside the box. This is to prevent any injury to a
baby. It is fully enclosed into a
plastic case that clips together, and we have added extra
screw supports to make sure it stays shut. That way, the
two internal AAA cells will not be easily accessed to cause
a choking hazard.
We recommend enclosing the device into a cloth bag
that is sewn or zippered shut. That provides an extra margin of choke hazard safety which is necessary when used
with a baby.
We should point out that the simulated heartbeat is not
a loud sound – it is not meant to be.
It is more like the subtle sound of a real beating heart;
it needs to be placed close to the ear, and is felt
more than heard. Think of it as a tiny heart,
but in a rounded rectangular prism shape.
A loud heartbeat sound would require a
large loudspeaker properly baffled to produce bass along with an amplifier with a
reasonable amount of power.
Neither of these are a feature of the
MiniHeart (but could be added externally).
Heart sounds
By
John
Clarke
40
Silicon Chip
When listening to a heartbeat,
you will hear two distinct, separate sounds, often called a
“lub” and a “dub”.
These two sounds are
produced by the closing of
heart valves required to
pump blood efficiently.
You’ve almost certainly seen the classic
heartbeat waveform
as shown on an electrocardiogram (ECG).
These are the electrical signals sent to
the heart muscles, and
when monitored with
electrodes on the skin,
are useful for diagnosing heart
problems. Electrode readings do not
represent the sounds and vibrations made by the
heart; heartbeat sounds are heard using a stethoscope.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
FEATURES AND SPECIFICATIONS
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Fig.1: this block diagram shows that the MiniHeart is quite simple, using
just a microcontroller and a Class-D amplifier chip to produce the sound.
A basic RC low-pass filter turns the PWM output of the micro into an
analog signal for the amp, while ferrite beads and capacitors reduce EMI
from the Class-D drive to the speaker
The MiniHeart block diagram is shown in Fig.1.
Microcontroller IC1 produces a heartbeat waveform in the
form of a pulse-width modulated (PWM) signal. The pulse
rate is 31.25kHz, and the pulse width is varied to produce a
smoothed lower-frequency waveform after passing through
a low-pass filter. This removes the high-frequency signals
so that only the heartbeat waveform remains.
Fig.2 shows how a PWM signal is used to produce a
lower-frequency, smooth waveform. The red waveform is
the PWM output from the microcontroller, IC1, while the
green waveform is its average value after filtering out the
PWM pulse frequency. For convenience, we show a sinewave, although any wave shape could be generated.
If the PWM signal has a 50% duty cycle, ie, an equal period of being high and low, then the filtered voltage will sit
mid-way between the high and low voltage levels.
To produce a higher voltage, the PWM signal duty cycle
is altered so that the period while high is longer than the
period when low (ie, duty cycle > 50%).
Conversely, for a lower voltage, the PWM period is kept
low for longer than it is high (duty cycle <50%).
The green wave shows the signal that appears after the
low-pass filter has removed all of the higher frequencies.
Note that this PWM signal is a representation only – in reality, the frequency of the PWM signal is very much higher
(around 700 times higher!) than the sine wave shown and
cannot be reproduced to scale on the diagram.
Overleaf, we show the various scope waveforms for the
MiniHeart.
Scope1-Scope3 show the general operation. Scope1
shows a few periods of the PWM signal at around 31kHz
(25µs timebase). Scope2 and Scope3 (10ms timebase) are
the ‘lub’ and ‘dub’ signals produced after filtering the
PWM signal.
Scope4 shows a single heartbeat with both the ‘lub’ and
‘dub’ waveforms, while Scope5 shows two heartbeats, with
the pause between each heartbeat visible.
The period between each heartbeat, the frequency of the
‘lub’ and ‘dub’ waveforms and the period between the ‘lub’
and ‘dub’ waveforms have a small amount of randomness
added. This is to prevent the heartbeat from sounding too
artificial. It simulates the variation in heartbeat rate and
timing of a real heart.
These waveforms are fed to a tiny Class-D (ie, switching) amplifier that’s usually used in mobile phones and it
siliconchip.com.au
•
•
•
•
•
•
Compact size
Adjustable volume
Adjustable timeout and heart rate
Flashing LED synchronised with the heartbeat
On/off power switch
Power: two AAA cells (nominally 3V), operating
down to below 2.5V
Current draw: 10mA average during operation,
500nA standby (typical)
Timeout: adjustable from two minutes to four
hours
Heartbeat rate: 42 to 114bpm
Rate randomness: about 15% variation
Sound frequency: 45Hz-51Hz (with a 2Hz
randomness)
Waveform generation method: PWM <at> 31.25kHz
Waveform sampling rate: approximately 1kHz
is designed to be highly efficient. It drives the small loudspeaker in bridge mode, to maximise the power output from
the limited 3V DC supply. The loudspeaker is weighted, ie,
the speaker cone has a weight attached to it. This is so that
low-frequency vibrations will be heard and felt.
Circuit details
The full circuit is shown in Fig.3. At its heart (!) is a
PIC12F617 microcontroller, IC1. Its master clear (MCLR)
input, pin 4, is tied to the 3V supply rail via a 10kΩ resistor to provide a power-up reset function.
IC1 applies 3V across adjustment trimpot VR1 via its GP5
digital output; this is only brought high when the trimpot
position is monitored via IC1’s AN3 analog input (pin 3).
After the GP5 output is brought high, to 3V, the voltage at
AN3 is converted to a digital value via IC1’s internal analogto-digital converter (ADC). Once the value is read, the GP5
output goes low again (0V) to conserve power.
Jumper link JP1 can be placed in one of two positions;
position 1 where GP1 is pulled to 0V, or position 2 where
GP1 is pulled to the 3V supply. When in position 1, trimpot VR1 adjusts the heartbeat rate. When in position 2, VR1
adjusts the timeout period.
The heartbeat rate can be set from 42 to 114 beats per
minute (BPM). The timeout can be set between two minutes and four hours.
The heartbeat rate can be adjusted while the heartbeat is
RED WAVEFORM = PWM (PULSE WIDTH MODULATION) SIGNAL
GREEN WAVEFORM = SYNTHESISED SINEWAVE (AFTER LOW-PASS FILTERING)
Fig.2: this shows how a high-frequency pulse-widthmodulated ‘square wave’ can be fed through a low-pass filter
to produce a smoothly varying, lower-frequency arbitrary
waveform (shown in green). The instantaneous voltage of
the green waveform equals the average voltage of the red
waveform. In reality, the pulse frequency would be much
higher in comparison to the reconstructed waveform.
Australia’s electronics magazine
January 2021 41
SC
MINIHEART HEARTBEAT SIMULATOR
Fig.3: the full MiniHeart Simulator circuit is not much more complicated than the block diagram.
Here you can see the detail of the second-order low-pass filter, the AC-coupling capacitors to the
inputs of IC2 and the series resistors which set its gain. LED1 responds to the average voltage
delivered to the speaker, so it starts to light once sound is being produced.
being generated, but the timeout is only checked at powerup. So after charging timeout value via VR1, power must be
switched off and on again for the new timeout to take effect.
The heartbeat generation switches off after the set timeout
period. This conserves power in case it is left switched on.
If JP1 is removed then the pin 6 GP1 input is not held
high or low. The voltage can float at a voltage anywhere
between 0V and 3V. This can lead to high current consumption in IC1, reducing cell life, as digital inputs are
supposed to be in one state or the other.
So IC1 checks for this condition by changing GP1 to an
output and setting it to a high level for 1ms. The 1kΩ resistor charges the 100nF capacitor to 3V. Then GP1 is changed
to an input, and the level is checked. If the input voltage
remains high, then there is either a jumper in position 2
pulling the input high, or there is no jumper, and the input
IC1 uses its internal 8MHz oscillator to generate the
31.25kHz PWM signal at output pin 5. This is fed to a twostage RC low-pass filter. The first stage comprises a 10kΩ
resistor and 100nF capacitor to give a -3dB roll-off at 159Hz.
The second stage has the same roll-off frequency but uses
a 100kΩ resistor with a 10nF capacitor. These components
give an impedance which is 10 times that of the first stage
filter, minimising the loading on the first stage due to the
second stage. The filtered signal is fed to volume control
Scope1: this shows just over seven periods of the ~32kHz
PWM signal that is produced at pin 5 of IC1. The signal
swing is 3V peak-to-peak, and the timebase is 25µs.
Scope2: this ‘lub’ signal reproduces a a real heartbeat sound,
produced by filtering the PWM waveform, measured at the
wiper of VR2. Note the longer timebase used here (10ms/div).
42
Silicon Chip
is held high via the charged 100nF capacitor.
This test is repeated with a low output. If the level
changed, then JP1 is inserted. To prevent the floating input condition, GP1 is changed to a low (0V) output and
left like that, minimising power consumption.
Heartbeat generation
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
trimpot VR2 and then to the non-inverting input, pin 3, of amplifier IC2 via a
VDD
TO
1µF capacitor and 27kΩ resistor.
INTERNAL
BATTERY
OSCILLATOR
IC2 is a TPA2005D1 Class-D (ie,
switching) amplifier in a tiny SMD package, measuring only 3 x 5mm. It is specifiIN –
+
cally designed for use in mobile phones
VO+
where its high efficiency is crucial. The
–
block diagram of the TPA2005D1 is
DIFFERENTIAL
H-BRIDGE
PWM
INPUT
shown in Fig.4.
VO–
+
It has differential inputs to an internal
IN +
–
amplifier that drives the PWM section at
a switching frequency of 250kHz, set by
the internal oscillator. The PWM section
GND
then feeds an H-bridge circuit for drivSHUTDOWN
BIAS
CIRCUITRY
ing an external loudspeaker.
The data sheet for the TPA2005 highTPA2005D1
lights two interesting points. The first is
its high CMRR (common-mode rejection
Fig.4: the internal block diagram of the TPA2005 Class-D audio amplifier chip.
ratio) which supposedly eliminates the
Its differential inputs go to a balanced analog amplifier and then onto a PWM
need for input coupling capacitors. But
modulator which drives a Mosfet H-bridge, and that in turn drives the speaker.
this high CMRR only applies if the amThis provides high efficiency and plenty of power from a low supply voltage.
plifier is used in balanced mode, with
As shown, the chip can drive a speaker in Class-D mode without a filter.
both inputs at the same DC level.
In our circuit, we are using it in unbalanced mode, with ceramic capacitor close to IC2’s supply rails, and a 100nF
the inverting input grounded (via the 1µF capacitor), so capacitor at IC1’s supply rails.
we need to use two input capacitors. The 27kΩ resistor
Diode D1 is included to protect against component damfor the non-inverting input, in conjunction with the inter- age if the cells are inserted with reversed polarity. In that
nal 150kΩ feedback resistor, sets amplifier gain at about case, the diode will conduct and limit the negative voltage
5.5 times. Since the amplifier is a bridge type, the overall to the circuit. The disadvantage is that this will quickly
gain is double that, ie, 11 times.
drain the cells, but presumably, you would notice that the
The second interesting point is that the TPA2005 can run
device is not working and fix it straight away.
without an output filter that would usually be required to
The alternative protection method, with a diode in series
remove the 250kHz switching signal. That is, provided the with the supply, drops too much voltage for this application.
output leads are kept short. Even so, we use ferrite beads Even a Schottky type, with its lower forward voltage, would
(FB1 and FB2) plus 1nF shunting capacitors to reduce elec- not be suitable and we can’t justify the cost of a Mosfet in
tromagnetic interference (EMI).
this role (which would have a lower voltage drop again).
Power supply
Indication
Power is from two series AAA cells to provide a nominal 3V supply, switched on or off by power switch S1. A
100µF capacitor bypasses the switched supply with a 1µF
LED1 lights simultaneously with the lub/dub sounds
and is driven via the VO- output of IC2. With no signal,
this output sits at an average of 1.5V. This is derived by an
Scope3: this is the ‘dub’ signal measured identically to the
‘lub’ signal shown in Scope2. Again, it is a reproduction of
a real heartbeat sound.
Scope4: a single heartbeat sound with both the ‘lub’ and
‘dub’ waveform. You can see their slightly different shapes
and amplitudes, and the delay between them.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
January 2021 43
Also, after the timeout period expires, microcontroller
IC1 is placed in sleep mode and only draws about 150nA.
Amplifier IC2 is also switched off by IC1 taking the GP0
output low, which connects to its SDWN (shutdown) input. IC2 then draws around 500nA. We measured a 500nA
current for the whole heartbeat circuit when in shutdown
on our prototype (half a microamp!). The cells should last
for their shelf life with such a small current drain.
Construction
Scope5: two heartbeats as shown in Scope4. With this
slower timebase, you can also see the delay between beats.
RC low-pass filter (2.2kΩ/100nF) from the 250kHz square
wave signal at pin 8 of IC2. It swings between 0V and 3V
with a 50% duty cycle when idle.
The LED lights when this voltage rises above the usual
LED forward voltage of around 1.8V, and that happens when
the duty cycle of the pin 8 output increases above 60%.
Saving power
Since the device is powered from AAA cells, we need
to minimise power usage to conserve cell life. Typically,
the circuit draws an average of 10mA when producing the
heartbeat. However, once the timeout period has ended,
the current needs to drop to a very low level until the unit
is switched off.
This is achieved in several ways. Firstly, as already mentioned, there is no voltage across VR1 most of the time.
The MiniHeart Simulator is built on a double-sided,
plated-through PCB coded 01109201 which measures 70
x 73mm. It is housed in an 80 x 80 x 20mm vented plastic enclosure.
Fig.5 shows the PCB component overlays. Begin by fitting
the SMD Class-D amplifier chip, IC2. It requires a very fine
soldering iron tip and, ideally, a lit gooseneck or desktop
magnifier (a good LED headband magnifier also works well).
Identify its pin 1 dot under magnification, then orientate
it as shown in Fig.5, with pin 1 towards the speaker hole.
Add some flux paste to the middle of the central pad (or
liquid flux, if you don’t have paste), position IC2 carefully
over its pads, then tack-solder pin 4 to its pad.
Check that the IC is still aligned with the PCB pads on
both sides; remelt the solder if required. If all is OK, solder the remaining corner pins and then pins 2, 3, 6 and
7. Use solder wick to remove any solder that bridges between the IC pins.
IC2 also has a ground pad that needs to be soldered to
the PCB. This can be done by feeding solder from the underside of the PCB, through the hole positioned under the
IC. Use minimal solder to prevent the solder from spreading out and shorting to the IC leads.
The flux you added earlier will help this solder flow onto
the pad on the underside of the IC.
Now install the resistors and surface mount capacitors.
Parts List – MiniHeart Heartbeat Simulator
1 double-sided, plated-through PCB coded 01109201,
70 x 73mm
1 Hammond 1151V4 vented enclosure, 80 x 80 x 20mm [Jaycar
HB6118]
2 AAA PCB-mount cell holders
2 AAA alkaline cells
1 40mm diameter Mylar cone loudspeaker [Jaycar AS3004]
1 PCB-mount SPDT toggle switch (S1) [Altronics S1421]
1 8-pin DIL IC socket
2 ferrite beads, 4mm diameter & 5mm long (FB1,FB2)
[Altronics L5250A, Jaycar LF1250]
1 3-way header, 2.54mm pitch with jumper shunt (JP1)
2 9mm-long M3 tapped spacers
2 M3 x 6mm panhead machine screws
4 No.4 self-tapping screws
2 M3 x 6mm Nylon machine screws (countersunk head preferred)
1 M8 marine-grade 316 stainless non-magnetic steel nut
(6.35mm tall)
1 40mm length of 0.7mm diameter tinned copper wire
(for FB1 and FB2)
1 100mm length of light-gauge hookup wire
(or 2-way ribbon cable or figure-8)
1 small tube of neutral-cure silicone sealant
(eg, roof and gutter silicone)
44
Silicon Chip
Semiconductors
1 PIC12F617-I/P microcontroller programmed with
0110920A.hex (IC1)
1 TPA2005D1DGNRQ1 1.4W mono filter-free Class-D
amplifier (IC2)
1 1N5404 3A diode (D1)
1 3mm high-brightness red LED (LED1)
Capacitors
1 100µF 16V PC electrolytic
3 1µF 6.3V SMD M3216/1206 X7R# ceramic
4 100nF 50V SMD M3216/1206 X7R ceramic
1 10nF 50V SMD M3216/1206 X7R ceramic
2 1nF 50V SMD M3216/1206 X7R ceramic
Resistors (all 1% SMD M3216/1206)
1 100kW (code 1003 or 104)
2 27kW (code 2702 or 273)
2 10kW (code 1002 or 103)
1 2.2kW (code 2201 or 222)
1 1kW (code 1001 or 102)
1 10kW mini horizontal trimpot (VR1)
1 100kW mini horizontal trimpot (VR2)
# a Y5V type was found to work in our prototype
but X5R or X7R is a better choice
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.5: these (and the
matching photos below),
show where components
are mounted on both
sides of the PCB. It’s
generally best to fit
all the SMDs to the
top side (and possibly
also the bottom side)
before moving on
to the through-hole
components due to
their small size and low
height. Note how the
speaker is orientated
so that its terminals fit
through the provided
board cut-out, and also
how the cell holder
wires are bent to fit the
PCB pads, fed in through
the underside and
soldered on top.
IC1 is a normal 8-pin
DIP . . . but IC2 (a
TPA2005D1DGNRQ1)
is TINY (it’s shown
below about life size).
A word of warning:
don’t sneeze or turn
a fan on if you ever
want to see it again!
These components are located on both sides of the PCB. The
capacitors are usually unmarked except on their packaging.
The resistors will probably be marked with a small code,
as shown in the parts list. The first few digits indicate the
resistance value, followed by the number of extra zeroes in
the last position. So for example, a 1kΩ resistor will have
the code 102 or 1001. That is a 10 followed by two zeros,
or 100 followed by one zero. For 10kΩ, the code will be
103 or 1002 etc.
Next, fit diode D1, taking care to orientate it correctly.
Then mount ferrite beads FB1 and FB2 by first feeding
tinned copper wire through the centre hole, then inserting
and soldering these to the PCB pads. Keep the wire taught
when soldering to prevent the beads from being loose.
We used a socket for IC1 in case we ever want to remove
it for reprogramming. Take care to orientate the socket correctly (notch toward the PCB edge).
Trimpots VR1 and VR2 can be mounted now. Take care to
place the 10kΩ trimpot in the VR1 position and the 100kΩ
trimpot in the VR2 position. Then fit three-way header JP1
with the shorter ends of the pins through the PCB holes.
Power switch (S1) is installed in the position shown. The
switch we used differs slightly from the one in the parts list
siliconchip.com.au
in that the actuator is longer on the recommended switch.
The positioning of the switch has therefore been moved
further from the edge of the PCB. That way, the switch actuator will protrude from the case by the same amount as
shown on our prototype.
LED1 mounts with the anode (longer lead) in the hole
marked ‘A’. Solder it so that the top of the lens is 11mm
above the top edge of the PCB
For the AAA cell holders, bend the wire terminals so that
they stick out the sides of the holder, then bend them up to
feed the leads through the holes on the PCB from the underside, and solder them on the top. The cell holders need to
be orientated correctly, as shown on the overlay diagram.
The base of the cell holders should be positioned so that
they sit on the enclosure base when the PCB is seated on
the four mounting posts. That means that the bottom of the
cell holders will be lower than the bottom edge of the PCB.
Next, fit the 100µF capacitor. Insert its leads with the
longer lead through the hole marked +, then lie it over, so
the capacitor body is between the LED and AAA cell holder. It must be no higher than 11mm above the top edge of
the PCB. That will allow the lid to fit.
The two PC stakes for the loudspeaker connections can
Australia’s electronics magazine
January 2021 45
i
The Min
HEART
SILICON CHIP
Fig.6: this drilling diagram shows the locations of the
3mm LED hole, two 3mm lid attachment holes (along
the bottom) and optional holes to access the adjustment
trimpots without having to remove the lid.
now be installed with the shorter end inserted into the
PCB from the top side.
At this stage, don’t plug in the PIC microprocessor (IC1).
If you purchase your PICI2F617-I/P for this project from the
SILICON CHIP ONLINE SHOP, it will already have the firmware
(0110920A.hex) loaded. If you wish to do this yourself,
the file can be downloaded from the SILICON CHIP website.
Housing
www.siliconchip.com.au
Fig.7: the “front panel” artwork, which has a
hole provided for the LED. See our website link
in the text for ideas on how to print this out and
attach it to the lid. You can download a PDF of
this artwork from the SILICON CHIP website.
the LED hole and the two trimpot adjustment access holes.
The holes for the trimpots are optional; you can omit them
if you’re happy to open the case if you need to make any
adjustments.
The lid panel artwork (Fig.7) is also available for download from our website. Details about printing and attaching panel artwork can be found at www.siliconchip.com.
au/Help/FrontPanels
Press the side clips into the case lid to release it from Testing
the baseplate. Locating flanges insert into one edge of the
Place a shorting link in JP1’s position 1 and connect two
lid also secure it in place.
wires, about 80mm long, to the two PC stakes under the
The PCB is designed to be mounted onto the integral PCB in readiness to solder to the miniature 8-ohm speakstandoffs on the base of the case. There is only one correct er. We used two wires stripped from a length of rainbow
orientation, and that is with the two notches along the top cable; mini figure-8 would also work well as well as sepaedge of the PCB fitting into the
rate hookup wires.
case lid locating flanges on the
The loudspeaker mounts on
base plate. The PCB is secured
top of the PCB with the speaker
with small self-tapping screws
terminals in the cut-out area. The
into the standoffs.
wires connect to the speaker terWe attach two 9mm-long M3
minals from the underside of the
tapped spacers to the PCB to alPCB. For the moment, the speaker
low the lid to be screwed down.
will be loose.
This is in addition to the side
Insert the two AAA cells and
clips on the cover that hold it in
switch on the power. Check there
place. Two screws then go into
is about 3V between pins 1 and 8
the standoffs from the outside of
of IC1’s socket.
the lid. Attach these spacers by
Disconnect power and insert
feeding short machine screws
the programmed PIC in its sockthrough the underside of the
et, making sure it is oriented corPCB into the two corner holes,
rectly (the notch toward the edge
then tighten the tapped spacers
of the PCB). Reapply power and
onto the screw shafts.
the speaker should start to move
This view shows how the PCB is secured to the case
The template (Fig.6) shows
in response to the ‘lub dub’ sound.
lid but more importantly, shows the “damper” glued
the position of the two holes re- to the mica speaker diaphragm (in this case, a stain- If not, make sure that VR2 is adjustquired for the securing screws. less steel nut). Don’t be tempted to use a mild steel
ed at least partly clockwise. Adjust
It also shows the locations for nut: they’re magnetic and will not work in this role.
further clockwise for more sound.
46
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Note that the sound will have an approximate 1kHz background tone. That’s because, even though this tone is filtered
out in the circuitry, the speaker is much more efficient at
producing 1kHz compared to the approximately 47Hz ‘lub
dub’ sounds. Also note that you won’t really hear the ‘lub
dub’ sound, but you will feel it if you place a finger at the
centre of the loudspeaker cone.
The loudspeaker cone needs to be weighted to make the
heartbeat audible and to prevent the reproduction of higher
frequency tones. To do this, we use an M8 stainless steel (nonmagnetic) nut as a weight on the speaker cone. A non-magnetic nut must be used; otherwise, the speaker cone would
be pressed against the magnet of the speaker by the nut.
We get away with this because the speaker cone is made
from Mylar and so it is quite strong. This means that the central speaker coil is still centred within the magnet gap even
with extra mass.
To attach the nut, apply a smear of neutral-cure silicone
sealant (roof and gutter silicone is ideal) to one side of the nut
and affix centrally on the speaker cone. Additional silicone
is required to fill the inside of the nut, making sure it is filled
down to the cone. Keep the silicone flush with the top face
of the nut. Also apply a thin layer around the speaker cone.
While you’re at it, it’s a good idea to secure the ferrite
beads (FB1 and FB2) using some of the silicone to hold
them to the PCB. Only a small amount is necessary. This
will prevent them from rattling and adding obscure sounds
to the heartbeat.
The loudspeaker is also secured to the PCB with some
silicone around the central magnet, where it fits into the
PCB hole.
Note that the speaker needs to be positioned correctly,
with the wire entry points positioned over the PCB cutout and with the back of the speaker magnet resting on the
base of the case.
The PCB should be temporarily positioned on the integral
standoffs in the case while the silicone cures. This way, the
speaker will be at the correct height above the PCB.
Using it
Adjust the timeout period so that the heartbeat sound
lasts for the length of time you require. This is done with
JP1 in position 2. To do this, move JP1 into position 2 with
the power off and set the required time. Full clockwise adjustment of VR1 gives a 4-hour timeout. The mid position
is two hours and mid-way between fully anticlockwise and
mid-way is about one hour.
Set the timeout and then switch on the power. The timeout period will be recorded. Any further adjustment of VR1
with the power on will be ignored. It is only the setting of
VR1 at power-up when JP1 is in position 2 that is recorded.
The setting is stored in non-volatile flash memory and remembered for use next time.
When jumper 1 is in position 1, the heartbeat rate can
be adjusted. This can be changed with power on, from 42
to 114 beats per minute. The setting is also stored in flash
memory, and the last setting will be used should the unit
be powered up with JP1 in position 2.
The volume is set using VR2. However, the drive to the
loudspeaker will become distorted if VR2 is rotated too far
clockwise, so a position less than halfway clockwise should
SC
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Australia’s electronics magazine
January 2021 47
Installing and using
While Arduino software and hardware have made microcontroller projects
accessible, many advanced users prefer to use MPLAB X, especially for PIC
devices. Like the Arduino IDE, it is a free download. This article will step
you through the process of creating your first MPLAB X project.
T
hose who have been dabbling with microproces- AVR parts (as described starting on page 88 of this issue).
sors and microcontrollers for a long time may reMPLAB has evolved into MPLAB X, which is now Javamember a time when writing a program required based, and therefore runs on all major operating systems;
intimate knowledge of instruction sets and memory maps. Windows, Mac and Linux.
You had to hand-write assembly language or even machine
For a long time, we’ve used this software and PICkit procode which would then have to be loaded into an EPROM. grammers to program microcontrollers for our projects, and
Our early microprocessor projects, such as the 1989 Print- we see no reason to change that, especially with MPLAB
er Buffer (siliconchip.com.au/Article/7380) or LED Message X now supporting AVR parts.
Board (siliconchip.com.au/Series/255),
There may be some out there
also from 1989, used a Z80 microprofor whom microcontroller processor with separate RAM chips and
gramming remains a mystery;
an EPROM chip.
perhaps you’re happy just buyAbout the same time came the first
ing pre-programmed parts from
PIC microcontrollers, with integrated
the SILICON CHIP ONLINE SHOP, or
program EPROM and in the next decyou just don’t have the need. But
ade, flash memory. These were typicalyou may be interested in the proly programmed in assembly language,
cess nonetheless. Or you might
with the machine code created by an
like to jump into the world of
assembler program.
microcontrollers.
Flash-based devices such as the
Rest assured that the process
PIC16F84 meant it was finally possionly continues to get easier. In
ble to quickly and easily update code
this article, we’ll introduce and
without having to manually erase an
review the latest version of MiEEPROM under a UV lamp (or sunlight,
crochip’s MPLAB X IDE.
if you didn’t have a UV lamp).
Once you’ve read through it,
It was over ten years ago, in July
you might also like to read the
2010, that we last gave an in-depth
separate article on the new AVR
‘howto’ on programming PIC microDA family of microcontrollers
controllers (siliconchip.com.au/Article/208). That article which are supported by MPLAB X.
introduced the PICkit 3 programmer/debugger from MicroMPLAB X is not tied to that particular chip or developchip and their MPLAB software.
ment board, but can be used with many Microchip microconMPLAB is a complete IDE (integrated development en- trollers, including virtually all PICs and many AVR MCUs.
vironment). It’s integrated because it includes the ability
to write programs in a high-level language (typically C) Microchip Technology
and then compile, upload and even debug these programs.
Microchip Technology is the company that makes PIC
The PICkit 3 is still a handy device; we haven’t come microcontrollers. In 2016, they bought out Atmel, the makacross many PIC devices that it can’t program. But you will ers of 8-bit AVR microcontrollers (which are at the heart of
probably have to switch to a PICkit 4 or Snap
early Arduino boards such as the Uno). Atmel
programmer if you want to work with the latest By Tim Blythman also made a range of 32-bit ARM-based micro48
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
controllers (which are in some of the more recent Arduino
boards). In a sense, these compete with Microchip’s MIPSbased PIC32 series.
For a few years now, we have seen some crossover in
features between the 8-bit PIC and AVR families.
We described a then-new AVR part in January 2019, the
ATtiny816 (siliconchip.com.au/Article/11372), and we’re
following up with an article on the latest AVR DA parts
this month (see page 88).
Microchip Technology also produces the MPLAB X IDE
software. It is available for free download, although some
compiler optimisations (to produce smaller and faster code)
are optional extras that you have to pay for. That said, you
can get a lot done with the free version of the software.
MPLAB X IDE
MPLAB X IDE is an evolution of the earlier MPLAB IDE
which dates back to 2001. The PICkit 2 programmer was
introduced in 2005, and many people would have first
come across MPLAB bundled onto a CD-ROM with their
PICkit 2 purchase.
MPLAB X was introduced in 2011 with support for the
Mac and Linux platforms. Now, in 2020, the latest version
of MPLAB X (version 5.40) is the first to drop support for
32-bit host processors (although it can, of course, program
32-bit microcontrollers).
MPLAB X does not provide all features ‘out of the box’.
Instead, compilers and other features are downloaded
and added separately. In fact, it appears that in the future,
new device support will be added using ‘Device Family
Packs’ (DFPs – we speculated on the meaning of DFP in our
ATtiny816 article!).
What it does
The User Guide for MPLAB X notes that it includes the
following features:
• a text editor (which also offers syntax highlighting
and error checking)
• a project manager
• a software simulator
Screen1: the default install directory includes the version
number of MPLAB X, so it can be installed alongside
earlier and later versions. This means you can try a new
version before committing to it.
siliconchip.com.au
• a debugger engine offering breakpoints, single stepping and watch windows
The following items can be added separately to the IDE:
• compilers
• programming frameworks (eg, Microchip’s Harmony
series)
• other tools
As we noted earlier, programmers such as the PICkit devices are also needed to write firmware images to the microcontrollers. If you are experimenting with the AVR128DA48
Curiosity Nano board described in our article in this issue
on the AVR DA family (or one of the other Curiosity Nano
series), the programming function is built into the board,
and no extra hardware is needed, apart from a USB cable.
There is also the MPLAB Xpress Cloud-Based IDE, which
runs in a browser.
Installing MPLAB X
Let’s get started with a basic introduction to the MPLAB
X IDE. We’ll assume you’ve done some programming before, for example, using the Arduino IDE.
The most basic steps involve writing code, compiling
it and programming the resulting HEX file to the device.
Under the Arduino IDE, the last two steps are combined
in the function of the Upload button.
The MPLAB X IDE can be downloaded from www.
microchip.com/mplab/mplab-x-ide
As we mentioned, the latest version at the time of writing (5.40) only supports 64-bit operating systems, so if you
have a 32-bit processor, you may need to work with an older
version instead. Legacy versions can be downloaded from
www.microchip.com/development-tools/pic-and-dspicdownloads-archive
There are minor differences with older versions, but you
should be able to follow along; the big difference is that
5.40 is the first version to support the AVR128DA parts and
thus is needed to work with the Curiosity Nano AVR128DA.
Although MPLAB X supports other operating systems,
much of the other software we use is still tied to Windows,
so we will be using Windows 10 for our guide. But our
Screen2: These options are new for version 5.40. There are
separate options for the IDE (integrated development environment) and IPE (integrated programming environment).
Choose the latter if you only wish to use MPLAB X for
programming HEX files onto chips. The settings shown here
are what we use, with support for 8-bit and 32-bit parts.
Australia’s electronics magazine
January 2021 49
Screen3: MPLAB X also installs drivers for devices such
as programmers like the PICkit 4 and the programming
interface on the Curiosity Nano AVR128DA.
experience is that on Mac and Linux, it works in much
the same way.
The download for MPLAB X v5.40 is around 1GB and
once installed, can take up to around 11GB. Installation
is quite straightforward, and for the most part, the default
options are fine (Screen1). It takes between about 10 minutes and an hour, depending on how fast your computer is.
If you only wish to use MPLAB X for programming devices, then you might only want to install the IPE (integrated programming environment). There’s also the option
to select whether you want support for 8-bit, 16-bit or 32bit devices; you will need 8-bit support for the AVR DA
parts (see Screen2).
The installer will also ask for permission to install some
drivers (see Screen3). These are for devices such as programmers, so it’s a good idea to install them now too.
When the MPLAB X installation is finished, you will also
be prompted to install other items that you might typically
need, such as a compiler – see Screen4.
You will likely need to install at least one compiler, but
if you want to install anything but the latest version, you’ll
have to download them manually from siliconchip.com.
au/link/ab4v
The compilers are called XC8 (for 8-bit devices), XC16
and XC32 (for 32-bit devices like PIC32s).
We currently use XC32 version v2.10 for our PIC32 projects, although some older projects use version v1.33. Also,
the procedure for creating a “CFUNCTION” for a Micro-
Screen5: the Free License for the XC8 Compiler works
quite well. If you need the features of one of the Pro
licenses (for example, more aggressive code optimisation),
then it can be applied later.
50
Silicon Chip
Screen4: to make proper use of MPLAB X, you need a
compiler, so you should leave the top option checked. You
can install compilers separately later, if required.
mite only works with this older version. This is due to
changes in the way some of the peripheral libraries work
within the compiler.
For 8-bit microcontrollers, we have previously used XC8
version v2.00. You might want to install one of these if you
wish to modify some of our project code.
The process here applies to version v2.20 of XC8, but
other versions (and other compilers) should be fairly similar. If you want to build the code for the AVRDA family of
chips, then you will need to install at least v2.20 of XC8.
The first question you are asked when installing an XC
compiler is about the licence type, as shown in Screen5.
Initially, at least, the Free option is fine. A paid licence
can be applied later if you need compiler optimisations
(this means that, in general, your programs will be smaller and run faster).
Then move onto the installation path; the default option
is usually a good choice (Screen6), as the installer organises the different versions into folders, so it’s easy to check
what versions are installed.
The final step also relates to the licence. The Host ID (used
for node-locked licences) is shown (see Screen7). Again,
Screen6: the XC8 Compiler can be installed independently
from MPLAB X, and different versions of it can be installed
simultaneously. We sometimes use an older version of the
XC32 compiler (for PIC32 parts) as it has a different set of
libraries.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Screen7: if you want to try the Pro license for XC8, there is
a 60-day free trial. The easiest way to activate it is to rerun
the installer and click the option shown here.
for the free licence, you can simply click Next.
At this stage, we have enough software installed to start
compiling code, but let’s take a quick tour first.
MPLAB X
We’ll use the AVR128DA48 Curiosity Nano development board described in the accompanying article as an
example. If you have one of these, plug it in now so that
the software can recognise it.
Open MPLAB X and choose New Project… from the File
menu. The next step is to select a project type; we usually
select “Standalone Project” (see Screen8). The other options are generally used to import existing projects from
other programs. If you have installed the Harmony or MCC
frameworks, then options for these will also appear.
Harmony and the MPLAB Code Configurator (MCC) are
the programming frameworks noted earlier; it is not necessary to install these to work with the AVR128DA48 Curiosity Nano. However, they may come in handy if you are
working with some complex peripherals, especially USB.
The next step is to choose the target part. For example, for the AVR128DA48 Curiosity Nano, the part will be
AVR128DA48, because this board has the 48-pin variant.
It’s possible to change this setting later (mid-project). For
example, you may wish to port the code to a device from the
same family with more pins, or even to a different device.
Screen9: after creating a new project and adding a “main.c”
file, you are presented with panels full of information.
Project settings and properties can be found by right-clicking
the project name at the top left and selecting “Properties”.
siliconchip.com.au
Screen8: as well as creating a Standalone project, you
can also import Atmel Studio projects. If you have other
frameworks (such as Harmony or MCC) installed, they
appear as options here.
On this tab, it’s also possible to select the programming
tool. You should see the Curiosity Nano in the drop-down
list. If you don’t have one of these, you can select “Simulator” or “No Tool”.
The window will jump forward a few steps to allow a
compiler to be chosen. Your only choice for the AVR128DA
will be XC8 V2.20 or later (or its assembler, “pic-as”).
Finally, you can choose a project name and location. We
went with “AVR128DA48_blank”.
The project is now created, but will (at a minimum)
need to have at least one source code file. Right-click on
the “Source Files” and click New -> avr-main.c. A file will
appear in the main window and also at left. Your screen
should now look like Screen9.
Navigating the IDE
The small window at top left allows you to navigate between projects and also individual files within a project.
Below this, at the left, is the Dashboard. It shows important project information. Particularly handy are the Data
and Program memory space bar graphs, which allow you to
keep track of these resources as your code expands.
At top right is the editor. If you have multiple files open,
they will be shown by tabs along the top. The editor has
the expected features like find and replace, but also syntax
Screen10: the Project Properties window contains settings
that are only changed rarely after the project is created.
You might use the option at top right to modify a project to
use a different part, for example, if you need more I/O pins
and want to change to a larger member of the same family.
Australia’s electronics magazine
January 2021 51
highlighting and autocompletion.
At lower right is the output window. Various stages of
the development process are handled by different utilities (under the control of MPLAB X). For example, during
compilation and upload, progress and warnings/errors (if
any) are shown here.
Of course, the windows can be moved around as needed,
but we find that the defaults work quite well.
The button with the green arrow coming out of the chip
is for reading a device’s memory; typically this would be
used to export the contents of flash memory to a HEX file,
although this is usually not needed if you have compiled
your own code. It might be handy, though, if your code
writes data to flash (eg, its configuration) and you want to
see what changes it has made.
The button with the blue circular arrow is used to toggle the programmer’s device reset line, for example, if you
wish to reset or disable the attached microcontroller during testing and debugging.
The final button is used for hardware debugging. If you
click this, your code is compiled with options allowing
it to communicate with the programming tool, and is uploaded to the device. The MPLAB X IDE then switches to
debugging mode, and some more buttons appear to control this. We explain the debugging process in more detail
in the article on the AVR128DA, which starts on page 82.
Handy hints
MPLAB Xpress IDE
Screen11: these buttons along the top of the MPLAB X
window are for compiling and deploying your project to
microcontroller hardware. The rightmost button initiates a
debugging session.
We can’t possibly detail all the features of MPLAB X, but
we’ll briefly summarise those we use the most. It might pay
to come back to this section while you’re working with the
Curiosity Nano board.
The main project properties can be opened by rightclicking on the project name in the Projects window (see
Screen10). Many options from the initial project setup can
be changed here. In fact, multiple configurations can be
created, perhaps to target a variety of different processors
or to help to port the project between compiler versions.
The programmer can be changed too; it’s the first item
under “Conf: [default]”. The “PKOB nano” is the programmer built into the Curiosity Nano (PKOB is short for PICkit
On Board).
You may have more need to tweak these settings when
working with a standalone programmer.
MPLAB X also includes an easy way to make a copy of
a project. This can be handy if you don’t have some other
form of version control in use, or you wish to use one project as the basis for another different project.
Simply right-click on the project name in the Projects
window and select “Copy...” Then supply a new name
and click “Copy”.
Just below the main menu items are commonly used
tools, as shown in Screen11.
The hammer icon builds (compiles) the project. Helpfully, the project name is shown, so you know which project you are building. This is handy if you have multiple
projects open.
The hammer and brush icon ‘cleans’ and builds. Usually, the build process only updates files that have changed
since the last build. In contrast, a ‘clean and build’ ensures
other changes like configuration settings changes are properly propagated through the compile process.
For small projects, either process takes only a few seconds, so we find that we simply do a ‘clean and build’
most of the time.
The next two buttons, labelled “Run” and “Make and
Program Device”, perform the same function in most cases. The Run button can also be used to start the simulator
for those devices that support it. Currently, this is only
some PIC devices, so the AVR128DA is not supported by
the simulator.
52
Silicon Chip
It’s also worth noting that there is a cloud-based version
of MPLAB X, called MPLAB Xpress IDE. It is not a replacement for the full IDE, but is a quick and easy way to have
a look around at the platform’s features – see Screen 12.
You can access it at the following link: https://www.
microchip.com/mplab/mplab-xpress
You can create a project, build it and even download a
hex file. There’s also an option to export an MPLAB X project to work with the full IDE.
Conclusion
We’ve used MPLAB X for many years now, and it has
improved over time. It’s especially handy that MPLAB X
can now work with AVR parts as well as PICs, especially
with in-circuit debugging (ICD).
The latest version of the IDE doesn’t bring much in the
way of new features for those that are familiar with using
it to work with PIC microcontrollers. Indeed, many of the
older versions are entirely adequate for coding, debugging
and programming older PICs.
But it is evolving to work with more microcontrollers, and
SC
these new AVR parts spread its reach even further.
Screen12: the MPLAB Xpress IDE is an online IDE which
allows you to export projects and compile HEX files. So
it’s a good way to test out some of the features of MPLAB X
without having to install it first.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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soldering required,
plug and play.
KR9262
WAS $99.95
See website for details.
1199
$
69
$
95
SAVE $100
SAVE $30
This official kit from Arduino includes all the essentials
to get you started in the exciting world of Arduino®.
Kit includes UNO board, breadboard and plenty
of prototyping accessories. Perfect gift for a young
electronics enthusiast or maker
in the making. XC9200
®
4.3" COLOUR
TOUCH SCREEN
See website for details.
10% OFF
JUST
169
$
NOW FROM $22.45
• 2X magnifying lens, soldering
iron holder, 2 x strong adjustable
alligator clips
• Heavy cast
iron base
TH1987
27-PCE SMARTPHONE
REPAIR KIT
Contains all necessary tools
you need to fix
your Smartphone
from 4mm bits,
tweezers & more.
TD2118
JUST
24
$
Adjustable tip temperature up to 580°C.
Equivalent power of between 25 and 125W.
• 3 Tips included
• Quality storage case
TS1328 WAS $169
NOW
149
$
95
SAVE $20
12V FOLDING SOLAR PANELS
SAVE 15%
Get free electricity from the sun for your campsite.
Supplied with charge controller, 5m power lead with
alligator clamps for easy connection and carry bag.
110W ZM9175 $199
130W ZM9177 $239
160W ZM9178 $289
• SUPER HD
RECORDING
• DOUBLES AS
A REVERSING
CAMERA
ON TV MOUNTING BRACKETS
We have a HUGE range of high quality
brackets to suit virtually all TV screens at
affordable prices. CW2805-CW2883
NOW FROM $25.45
See our full range
online or in-store.
Charge controller
included.
Shop the catalogue online!
FROM
199
$
75
32GB microSD Card bonus
XC4992 RRP $36.95 free gift
HIGH QUALITY
MONOCRYSTALLINE CELLS
Free delivery on online orders over $99*
Exclusions apply - see website for full T&Cs.
*
ZM91
199
Drill, saw, sand, polish,
carve or grind in your
workshop or out on
the road.
• 12V <at> 12,000RPM
TD2451
$
TL4260/TL4270
TL4261/TL4271
TL4262/TL4272
TL4263/TL4273
TL4264/TL4274
TL4265/TL4275
TL4266/TL4276
SUPER PRO GAS
SOLDERING TOOL KIT
39
95
Automatically records on impact.
Wide 140° lens. 12/24VDC
operation. Auto on/off.
Records to microSD card (sold
separately). QV3849
$
110-PCE 12V
ROTARY TOOL KIT
JUST
29
95
SHD DASH CAM WITH
REAR VIEW CAMERA
JUST
BLACK
BLUE
GREEN
RED
CLEAR
ORANGE
WHITE
FLASHFORGE
FILAMENT 600G/1KG.
PCB HOLDER
WITH LED MAGNIFIER
$
SILICON
PRINTING
PLATFORM
DUAL COLOUR
PRINTING
ARDUINO® STARTER KIT
ONLY
NOW
SUITS MOST TV
BRANDS FROM
23"-100"
www.jaycar.com.au
CW2805
1800 022 888
think. possible. Your destination for...
everyday home upgrades
Upgrade your Home Theatre with the latest tech!
Multiple TV’s but only 1 cable
box? No problem. Split the signal
and watch TV in different rooms
with this easy switcher.
4K ANDROID
MEDIA
PLAYER
Allows you to browse the web, run Android
games and apps, or watch your favourite
media collection in stunning 4K resolution.
Connects to a TV via Wi-Fi or HDMI.
• Includes remote, mains power adaptor &
HDMI lead
XC6012
JUST
6995
$
Stream content from your
Smartphone/Tablet to your TV.
• USB powered
AR1922
ONLY
39
95
4K
79
95
FROM
EXPAND YOUR LAPTOP OR MACBOOK®
Expand the number of ports and connect just about anything to
your MacBook® or latest laptop. Suitable for devices with
Type-C / Thunderbolt™ 3 connections.
Rear
MacBook® 4-in-1 Thunderbolt™ 3 Hub
XC4938 WAS $99.95 NOW $79.95 SAVE $20
9-in-1 Multifunction Type-C Hub
XC4975 $99.95
See website for details.
XC4938
4K HDMI
Port
NOW FROM
7995
$
109
$
SAVE $10
54
• Powerful 125mm dia.
3 dioptre lens
• High / low light setting
• Fully adjustable arm
with clamp mount
• Large diameter
magnifier
• Interchangeable
lens option
QM3554 WAS $119
click & collect
HDMI cable
doesn’t reach? No
problem, use this
handy extender!
4995
99
$
4995
Improve and free up your desk
area by mounting your monitor.
Single Bracket
CW2874
WAS $59.95 NOW $49.95
Dual Bracket
CW2875
WAS $79.95 NOW $67.95
Articulating Mount CW2900
WAS $79.95 NOW $67.95
ONLY
FROM
DUAL POWERBOARD
WITH USB
MONITOR CABLES
1995
$
PR
SAVE 15%
4
CW287
PC MONITOR
DESK BRACKETS
SAVE $30
JUST
JUST
3995
$
$
NOW
2495
Buy online & collect in store
JUST
NOW FROM
AUTO ADJUSTS
FOR LOW LIGHT
2CH
POWERED
PC STEREO SPEAKERS
WITH RGB LIGHTS
$
HELPFUL
HINT
$
5MP HIGH DEFINITION
WEB CAMERA WITH
DUAL MICROPHONES
Great sounding speakers with
RGB LED backlights for
colourful rainbow
effects! USB
powered. XC5171
129
Crimps F, N, BNC, TNC, UHF,
ST, SC & SMA connectors onto
RG6 or RG58 coax cable.
TH1833
SAVE
UP TO $20
SD & MicroSD
Card Readers
JUST
$
HEX RATCHET
CRIMPING TOOL
LED ILLUMINATED
MAGNIFIER
NOW JUST
Split a HDMI input to multiple HDMI outputs.
2 Output AC1710 $52.95
4 Output AC1712 $84.95
Great for domestic TV & Pay
TV installations! 75 ohm RG6
quad shield in a handy 30m
roll. BELDEN Brand. WB2014
95
Clear crisp sound
and 1080p HD
video for Skype,
Zoom, or other
video conferencing
applications. Easy
installation.
QC3207
WAS $129
4K
TV COAX CABLE
44
$
HELPFUL
HINT
HDMI SPLITTERS
*Cat6 cable up to 50m, Cat5e up to 40m.
4-Way LT3287 $99.95
95
5295
$
Extends HDMI connections over
a single Cat5e/6 cable. Ideal for
running HDMI signals to new
locations or connecting through
existing building cables. Includes
HDMI loop output. AC1783
FROM
$
FROM
50M*
1080P HDMI
EXTENDER WITH INFRARED
(shown)
Home Office Refresh
USB Type-C
with PD
Switch HDMI signals from multiple
sources to a single output.
• Input: 3 x HDMI
• Output: 1 x HDMI
AC1705
Simple and neat solution to boost your TV
antenna signals.
Single LT3285 $44.95
2-Way LT3288 $59.95
49
Front
3-WAY HDMI SWITCHER
INDOOR TV AMPLIFIER/SPLITTERS
Ideal for problem digital reception
areas. Capable of receiving either
horizontal or vertical signals. Built-in
LTE filter to stop interference from
mobile phone towers.
PRICE
• 12.5dB Gain
BREAKTHROUGH
LT3147
$
4295
AMPLIFIED HDMI LEADS
UHF PHASED ARRAY
TV ANTENNA
HELPFUL
HINT
4K
$
4K
Ideal for long runs and
designed to compensate for
any loss of signal. Suitable
for Full HD, 4K, 3D, and
UHD signals.
10m WQ7437 $79.95
15m WQ7438 $99.95
20m WQ7435 $119
30m WQ7439 $139
HDMI DONGLE
$
JUST
Need to multiple HDMI
devices but your TV or Display
has only 1 HDMI port? A
Splitter is your answer.
Features 2 x mains power outlets
& 4 x USB ports (3.4A shared) to
charge up to 4 USB devices at the
same time. MS4104
795
$
DVI, VGA and XVGA cables are
designed for computer monitors.
Use the most suitable for your
application. Available in 0.5m to
15m lengths. WC7500-WC7588
See in store or online for full range
ON SALE 27.12.2020 - 23.01.2021
think. possible. Your destination for...
smart home operations
4K
4-WAY
4K SMART HDMI SWITCHER WITH VOICE ASSIST
Support Alexa smart voice command. Includes infrared
remote control and mains power adaptor.
• High-Dynamic-Range (HDR) video support
• Inputs: 4 x HDMI
• Outputs: 1 x HDMI, 1 x TOSLINK Optical
AC5014 WAS $149
NOW
119
$
SAVE $30
ONLY
3995
$
Use your Smartphone to adjust the
lights colour to suit your mood from
a comforting warm colour to cool
white for reading. Dimmable.
IP65 rated. ST3992
1080P RESOLUTION
249
$
MOTION DETECTION
SAVE $9.95
SMART WI-FI LED BULBS
WITH COLOUR CHANGE
JUST
SMART COLOUR CHANGING
STRIP LIGHT - 5M
CAMERA +
SOLAR PANEL
BUNDLE DEAL
security applications around
the home or workplace,
without the need for messy
cables!
• Rechargeable
• IR night vision
QC3890 $199
BUILT-IN MIC
& SPEAKER
+
Add solar charging capability to your Smart Wi-Fi
camera (QC3890) for off-grid power. QC3896 $59.95
REMOTE ACCESS
& VOICE
CONTROL
6995
SMART WI-FI
BATTERY
CAMERA
For temporary or permanent
$
WI-FI UNIVERSAL
SMART REMOTE
Replaces your appliance's remote
control and allows you to control
your appliance such as TVs, air
conditioners, heaters, etc from your
Smartphone or tablet. AR1974
Manage your lights with your
smartphone or voice
commands, including colour,
brightness, setting schedules,
etc. Bayonet/Edison fitting.
Single SL2250/54
WAS $19.95 EA
NOW FROM
NOW $14.95 EA
SAVE $5
3 Pack SL2252/56
WAS $49.95 PK
EA
NOW $39.95 PK
SAVE
UP
TO
$10
SAVE $10
14
$
95
SMART
WI-FI PLUG
Easily manage your
household electronic
devices using your
Smartphone. Control
via app or voice
command. MS6106
RRP $19.95 EA
2 FOR
30
Smartphone not included.
$
ALSO AVAILABLE:
with 2 x USB MS6104
RRP $34.95 EA
2 FOR $50
SAVE $19.90
SAVE $9.90
Home Security
JUST
8995
$
DOOR ENTRY ALERT
Features a send & receive unit that
transmits a beam. Buzzer sounds
when the beam is broken. Effective
range up to 6 metres. Mains power
adaptor & mounting hardware
included. LA5193
HIGH VOLUME
WIRELESS
DOOR BELL
Loud volume with built-in
strobe light. 7 selectable
melodies. Medium & loud
volume control. LA5002
JUST
5995
$
ONLY
1995
$
WINDOW &
DOOR ENTRY ALARM
• Security alarm or entry chime
• Quick installation
• Includes self-adhesive strips
LA5209
In the Trade?
THERMAL
DETECT
TECHNOLOGY
8
CHANNEL 4K NVR KIT
WITH 4 X 5MP CAMERAS
Versatile 5MP surveillance package
for home, office, or commercial
applications.
2TB HDD
• Smart viewing and notification
• Audio recording
• Power-over-Ethernet
• Expandable up to 8 cameras
• Built-in infrared LEDs for night vision up to 30m
QV5600
4K
LINE INTERACTIVE
UPS WITH LCD
Great for connecting surveillance
cameras up to 60m. Video & Power.
Compatible with most DVR systems.
30m WQ7283 $19.95 (Shown)
60m WQ7287 $39.95
FROM
149
$
• Reed switch and magnet
4-Core WB1591 $24.95
• Normally CLOSED (NC) per pair 6-Core WB1596 $49.95
• Self adhesive or screw mount
LA5072
5
25
999
FROM
1995
$
BALUN KIT
SECURITY ALARM REED ALARM CABLES
• 30m roll length
SWITCH
$
JUST
$
CCTV EXTENSION CABLES
• Easy to read LCD
which displays battery
and load values
• 2 x RJ11 sockets for
telephone and fax
• USB socket
650VA 390W
MP5205 $149
1500VA 900W
MP5207 $349
ONLY
5MP
FROM
24
$
95
Simplify your CCTV installation by
combining composite video, audio
and power for transmission over one
UTP CAT5 cable. QC3667
ALSO AVAILABLE: BNC/RCA/
Power to Cat5e/6 QC3669 $32.95
JUST
1695
$
QUAD ELEMENT
PIR DETECTOR
• Compact, reliable and
effective
• Built-in automatic
temperature to help
eliminate false triggers
• Swivel bracket for quick
position adjustment
LA5046 $44.95 EA
3 FOR
99
$
SAVE OVER $35
55
think. possible. Your destination for...
home solar
12V FIXED
SOLAR PANELS
High performance monocrystalline panels
designed for environmental conditions with a
durable anodised aluminium frame and 3.2mm
low iron tempered glass.
FROM
Junction box included.
JUST
40W
ZM9056 $59.95 (Shown)
80W
ZM9102 $109
130W ZM9061 $169
170W ZM9065 $209
59
$
ZM9056
NEED A SOLAR CHARGE CONTROLLER
TO SUIT? AVAILABLE FROM 10A TO 50A
95
12V SOLAR
PANELS WITH CLIPS
High efficiency, small footprint
solar panel charger kits with leads
and clips to keep your 12V battery
topped up at the campsite.
5W ZM9050 $24.95 (Shown)
10W ZM9051 $39.95
20W ZM9052 $59.95
2 x Mains Outlets
Lithium iron phosphate
(LiFePO4) batteries are the
latest in battery technology.
Featuring up to 10 times the
battery cycle life with only half
the weight of its lead-acid
equivalent.
12.8V 12AH SB2211 $149
12.8V 18AH SB2212 $199
12.8V 25AH SB2213 $299
12.8V 100AH SB2215 $799
BUY BOTH FOR
219 +
$
SB22
13
FROM
149
$
• MORE POWERFUL
• FASTER RECHARGE
• MORE PORTABLE
• LIGHTER
• SAFER
Add Wi-Fi communication to the Solar Charge
Controller (MP3741) with this interface, and
control your power installation using your
Smartphone. MP3746 $59.95
SAVE $39.95
Wi-Fi module is not stocked in all stores but can be ordered.
ONLY
9
95
JUST
39
$
EA
50A HIGH CURRENT
ANDERSON CONNECTORS
Used widely in both domestic and
industry applications. Supplied as a
moulded 2 pole with contacts.
• 50A, 600V (AC or DC) 6 gauge
PT4420-PT4427
Comfortable grip & ratchet
mechanism relieves strain on hands.
TH1847
3 OUTLET MAINS
CONTROLLER
Turn any standard mains outlet on and
off via remote. Good for switching off
hard -to-reach power points.
Up to 30m range. MS6147
ALSO AVAILABLE:
1 Outlet + remote
JUST
MS6148 $19.95
39
$
95
7
499
Designed for mobile or permanent power
installations it will run sensitive electronic and
power hungry devices such as a microwave,
power tools or TV. 12VDC to 230VAC. Short
circuit, overload, low/ over voltage, and over
temperature protection. MI5740
ALSO AVAILABLE:
24V 2000W MI5742 $599
450
$
95
EA
WATERPROOF SOLAR
POWER PV CONNECTORS
IP67 rated for maximum
environmental protection.
4mm Male
PP5102
4mm Female PS5100
/m
SOLAR PANEL POWER CABLES
Dust, age and UV resistant, tinned copper
conductors to minimise corrosion.
• IP65 rated 50A 4.0mm2
Full range of other
50A WH3121 $4.50/m
wiring hardware
70A WH3122 $6.50/m
available in-store or
online.
Power to the Home
10A DOUBLE GPO
WITH RCD*
Designed to be a direct
replacement to your
standard GPO fittings.
2 x 10A GPO. Built-in
RCD to prevent electric
shock. LED indicators.
PS4048 WAS $49.95
*Residual Current Device
12VDC DIGITAL
MAINS TIMER
SWITCH MODULE
NOW
3995
$
SAVE $10
Ideal for automating your
heating & lighting or any
other switching application
that requires multiple
unattended switching cycles.
• Eight on/off settings
• 16A <at> 240VAC
AA0361 WAS $59.95
Compact size, high power plug
pack design. Automatic voltage HIGH POWER
detect. Compatible with popular SLIM & LIGHTWEIGHT
laptops from HP, Dell, Toshiba,
IBM, Lenovo etc.
• USB socket
MP3342
MP355
0
JUST JUST
4995 $5995
$
click & collect
JUST
$
ULTRA
HIGH POWERED
12V 2000W PURE
SINE WAVE INVERTER
NOW
4995
$
SAVE $10
65W COMPACT UNIVERSAL
LAPTOP POWER SUPPLY
Slim mains power adaptors designed with low energy
consumption. Regulated output voltage. Fits side by side
on a power board. Supplied with 7 changeable DC tips.
12VDC 5A 65W
MP3560
24VDC 2.5A 65W MP3562
48VDC 1.25A 65W MP3564
56
USB Charging Port
FROM
ONLY
95 $
RATCHET CRIMPING TOOL
FOR NON-INSULATED LUGS
REMOTE CONTROLLED
HIGH POWER
MAINS POWER SUPPLIES
2495
LITHIUM BATTERIES
Uses Maximum Power Point Tracking
(MPPT) for maximum efficiency and
charge rate. Charge lead acid
(sealed, gel or flooded)
or lithium batteries.
• 3-stage intelligent
charging
• 12/24V operation
MP3741 $199
HIGH POWER
SLIM & LIGHTWEIGHT
FROM
$
PRICE FROM $39.95
20A MPPT SOLAR CHARGE
CONTROLLER FOR LITHIUM
OR SLA BATTERIES
$
ZM9050
EA
Buy online & collect in store
10-WAY
SURGE PROTECTED
POWERBOARD
10 mains sockets
with surge and spike
protection. EMI/RFI filter.
Data and TV reception
protection.
• 2 x USB ports
MS4033 WAS $84.95
ON SALE 27.12.2020 - 23.01.2021
NOW
7995
$
SAVE $5
think. possible. Your destination for...
car maintenance & upgrades at home
Car Security
FROM
HEAD-UP DISPLAY
SPEEDOMETER
13
$
WITH GPS & OBDII DATA
95
Keep your eyes on the road and read all the important
driving info, such as speed, from a head up display
reflected off the windscreen.
• Auto brightness adjustment
LA9036
DOOR LOCK ACTUATORS
5995
$
Reversed image reflects
correctly onto windscreen.
Used on passenger/driver doors. Durable,
waterproof, dustproof and supplied with
universal mounting hardware. Wiring not
included. Input voltage: 9 - 16VDC.
Slave Passenger LR8813 $13.95 (Shown)
Master Driver
LR8815 $15.95
JUST
Save on buying a whole new reversing camera
kit if you have a faulty or damaged camera.
IP67 rated. Wide 120° angle view.
Flush Mount
QC3530 $49.95
With Bracket
QC3532 $49.95 (Shown)
IR LEDs with Bracket QC3536 $119
JUST
5295
$
WIRED REVERSING
CAMERA WITH 7" LCD
Ideal for 4WDs, trucks, RVs and larger
vehicles. Enables you to monitor the area
to the rear of a large vehicle with a wider
field-of-view. Remote control included.
12/24VDC. QM3742 WAS $269
REMOTE CONTROLLED
CAR CENTRAL LOCKING SYSTEM
Upgrade to a remote keyless entry! Easy to install
and comes with two remote key fobs.
• Includes master actuator, wiring and remotes
LR8839
JUST
Lock and unlock your car doors from a distance
without having to fumble around with keys. 9 - 16VDC.
• Frequency: 433.92MHz
LR8842
REPLACEMENT
GLOBES
INTERIOR LED RETROFIT KITS
Upgrade car/caravan/boat interior lighting
with LED technology. Each kit consists of
cool white LEDs with 3M adhesive foam
backing. 12VDC. Universal T10/211/BA9S.
2.5W 260 Lumen ZD0585 $9.95
3.0W 310 Lumen ZD0587 $12.95
4.5W 450 Lumen ZD0589 $14.95
FROM
7
$
95
WATERPROOF DEUTSCH
2-WAY CONNECTOR SET
Perfect for connecting up sensors/
lights in the bay due to their
superior corrosion protection.
• 13A rated.
2-Way PP2150 $7.95
4-Way PP2149 $9.95
6-Way PP2148 $11.95
More ways to pay:
FROM
A range of 150 lumens
ultra-bright white LED
replacement globes
for car interior lights.
Compatible with
modern "CANBus"
sytems. 120° wide
beam. 12VDC.
3 sizes available.
ZD0750-54
NOW
2795
$
EA
SAVE $5
FROM
89
$
95
PR
H4 HI/LO LED POWERED
HEADLAMP KIT
Bright and efficient. Equipped with
advanced Luxeon Z ES LEDs.
• 3800 lumens 40W
NOW
• 12/24VDC
SL3524 WAS $169
JUST
6995
$
AUTOMOTIVE
MULTI-FUNCTION CIRCUIT
TESTER WITH LCD
Designed to test the electrical
system of an automotive vehicle
running on 12V or 24V. Tests
voltage and polarity of a circuit.
Locates misfiring cylinders.
• LED indicator
QM1494 WAS $64.95
5995
SAVE $5
SAVE $20
AUTOMOTIVE DMM
WITH DWELL & TACHO
JUST
EA
HIGH GRADE
CIGARETTE POWER SOCKETS
For vehicle and marine use. Includes panel
and surface mounts. 10A rating.
Single
PS2020 $16.95
Double
PS2022 $21.95
Single with LED Voltmeter PS2024 $29.95
Single with Dual USB Charger
PS2026 $29.95
JUST
19
$
95
12V TO 5VDC
CONVERTER
WIRING KIT
NOW
$
149
95
2
Diagnose your cars problem. Plugs into
OBD-II port and transmits speed, RPM, fuel
consumption, etc via Bluetooth® to your
Smartphone. PP2145
1295
$
QC353
OBDII BLUETOOTH®4.0
ENGINE CODE READER
$
16
$
4995
$
SAVE $20
Provides clean, crisp, natural and smooth
balance sound. All models are paired
with soft dome tweeters. Sold as a pair.
4" 40WRMS CS2400 $89.95
5" 50WRMS CS2401 $119
6.5" 75WRMS CS2402 $139
Car Lighting
995
249
COAXIAL SPEAKERS
WITH SILK DOME TWEETER
4 DOOR REMOTE
CONTROLLED CENTRAL
LOCKING KIT WITH KILL SWITCH
$
FROM
$
Self-adhesive and easily moulded.
Provides acoustic isolation and
insulation for roof, firewall, floor,
quarter panels, doors and under
bonnets. 330mm wide. WAS $32.95 EA
Butyl
AX3687
Butyl/Foam Combo AX3689
95
FROM
NOW
SOUND DEADENER
94
$
12V
REVERSING CAMERAS
ONLY
Perfect for the workshop as an
an engine analyser as well as
basic DMM. Full dwell angle
measurement and tacho. Max/
data hold and bright backlit
LCD.
• 2000 Display count
• RPM x 10
QM1446
4995
$
Micro USB Plug
(Mini USB
adaptor included)
Get rid of unsightly power cables
floating around car dash that powers
GPS, Dash Cam or mobile device.
• 2.5A continuous current
• Cable length 1.3m
MP3675
IN-CAR BATTERY
MONITOR AND
TEMPERATURE DISPLAY
Plugs into an available power
socket to display system voltage
and interior cabin
temperature. Easy
to read LED display.
QP2222
ONLY
1995
$
57
D
E
N
I
A
T
ENTER
keep the kids
AMAZING
SELF-FLYING
DRONE!
9995 $4995
LASER GUN & DRONE SET
REMOTE CONTROLLED
2-IN-1 TANK CONSTRUCTION KIT
4995
Build your own 'marble' roller
coaster. The spiral "elevator" lifts
the marbles to the top of the rail,
and gravity takes care of the rest.
170 piece. Requires 1 x C battery
(sold separately). Ages 15+. KJ9004
2 PK C Batteries SB2416 $4.50
TOBBIE THE ROBOT
- HEXAPOD KIT
A 6-legged robot that
you can build. Walks
and spins in any
direction and will
beep and flash
its eyes. Ages 8+.
KJ9031
Assembled into two different tanks. Drive
around on caterpillar tracks and raise/lower
the turret. Equipped with gunfire sounds. 759
pieces. Ages 6+. Requires 3 x AAA and 6 x AA
batteries (sold separately). KR9242
4 PK AAA Batteries SB2413 $3.25
12 PK AA Batteries SB2333 $7.95
JUST
2995
$
VIDEO
ONLINE
JUST
Runs on potatoes or with
tomatoes, lemons, apples,
even soft drink or beer! Safe
and highly educational. Ages
10+. KJ8937
95
NOW
1995
SAVE $3
4995
$
ANYWHERE
TABLE TENNIS
• Collapsible net
• Spring-clamp net support posts
• Includes 2 x paddles & 2 x ball
GH1162 WAS $22.95
NOW
95
POTATO CLOCK KIT
Interchangeable 4WD tyres for speed and
caterpillar tracks for rough terrain. Speeds up
to 10km/h. 2.4GHz remote requires 2 x AA
batteries (sold separately). Ages 8+. GT4247
2 PK AA Batteries SB2424 $1.95
JUST
Simulates the movements of human hand/
fingers, using hydraulic power. It allows every
finger joint to adjust at different angles for
close-fist/or open-palm precisely. Ages 10+.
KR9266
12
$
REMOTE CONTROLLED 2-IN-1
ROCK & DIRT CRAWLER
$
HYDRAULIC
CYBORG HAND KIT
49
$
JUST
$
SPACE RAIL
CONSTRUCTION KIT
JUST
JUST JUST
$
Launch this amazing 'obstacle avoidance &
self-flying drone and watch it fly, then pull out
the gun, take aim - shoot! Hit the drone and it
shudders, strike it 3 times and it falls safely to ground.
Warning - The drone shoots back. Full colour lighting
and multiple sound effects. Add up to 3 drones.
Ages 8+. GT4082 See website or in-store for details.
Additional Drone to Suit GT4082 GT4084 $24.95
Due early January.
...at
home
FROM
995
$
KJ89
70
SNAP-ON ELECTRONIC KITS
All in bright coloured pieces. Parts simply
snap together without any screws or
soldering. Ages 6+. KJ8970-KJ8985
Full range available in store or online.
1495
$
SAVE $2
MAKE YOUR OWN:
CLOCK KIT
Easy to assemble. No batteries
required. 31 pieces. Ages 6+.
KJ8996 WAS $16.95
80W 240V
Soldering Iron
TS1485 $24.95
WEARABLE
BADGES & ELECTRONIC DICE KITS
These kits are a great way for your kids and grand kids to start soldering and pick up
some electronics on the way. They will also learn about how various components work
including LEDs, transistors, integrated circuits and more. Each kit requires a
CR2032 battery (SB2522 $3.25 sold separately). $19.95 EA
6 DIFFERENT KITS AVAILABLE:
1. Skull Badge
2. Owl Badge
3. Rocket Badge
4. Pirate Badge
5. Robot Badge
6. Electronic Dice
with Alternating Flashing LEDs
with Touch Sensitive LEDs
with Flashing LEDs
with Flashing LED Eye
with Touch Sensitive LEDs & Buzzer
with Flashing LEDs
58
5
40
3
$
6
SAVE $19.85
In the Car
RETRO STYLE
HANDHELD
GAME CONSOLE
WITH 256 GAMES
Hours of entertainment
to keep you and the
kids entertained.
Features a 2.8" colour
screen, built in speaker
and a 3.5mm to RCA
and USB recharge
cable. Available in
Black or Red. Ages 15+.
GT4280
Due early January.
KM1090
KM1092
KM1094
KM1096
KM1098
KM1099
ANY
3 KITS FOR
JUST
CONNECT
IT TO
YOUR TV
29
$
click & collect
ONLY
95
129
7" TFT LCD
WIDESCREEN
COLOUR MONITOR
WITH IR REMOTE
$
Wireless Headphones
Suitable for in-car and home
entertainment, use it to watch video AA2047 RRP $39.95
from any composite source such as a
DVD player or game console. QM3752
Buy online & collect in store
JUST
3995
$
bonus
free gift
WIRELESS
INFRARED
STEREO
HEADPHONES
Add these wireless
headphones to the monitor on the
left and enjoy automotive bliss! Soft
cushioned pads. AA2047
ON SALE 27.12.2020 - 23.01.2021
CLEARANCE
ORDER ONLINE, COLLECT IN STORE
Listed below are a number of discontinued (but still good) items that we can no longer afford to hold stock.
Please ring your local store or search our website to check stock. At these prices we won't be able to transfer from store to store.
STOCK IS LIMITED. ACT NOW TO AVOID DISAPPOINTMENT. Sorry NO RAINCHECKS.
AUDIO & VISUAL
SECURITY
Cat. No
WAS
NOW
SAVE
150m 1080p HDMI Cat5e/6 Extender with Infrared HOT PRICE AC1746
$219
$169
$50
1080p AHD Dome Camera with IR
HOT PRICE AM4201 $69.95 $39.95
$30
1080p Wi-Fi IP Camera with Pan/Tilt
2 Way DisplayPort Splitter
AC1755 $49.95 $39.95
$10
12V AC/DC Door Strike release
2 Way DisplayPort Switcher
AC1757 $49.95 $39.95
$10
15m CCD Camera Extension Cable
2 x 15 WRMS Portable Stereo Amplifier
AA0504 $69.95 $49.95
$20
4 Door RFID Access Controller
2 x HDMI to VGA/Component & Analogue/Digital Audio Converter
AC1721
$99
$20
720p AHD Dome Camera with IR
3.5mm Plug to Socket Cable with Microphone and Volume Control - 0.5m
WA7120 $14.95
$9.95
$5
720p AHD Wireless Receiver & Camera Kit
QC8663
$99
$89
$10
4 Way Digital Audio Switcher
AC1723 $39.95 $34.95
$5
720p Outdoor Trail Camera
QC8041
$149
$129
$20
6 Way Speaker Selector with Internal Protection
AC1683
$129
$99
$30
Ceiling Mount Alarm with Remote Control
6.5" Rechargeable Cube Speaker with Bluetooth® Technology
CS2489
$119
$89
$30
Concord 8 Ch. 4K DVR Package - 4x5MP Cameras
HOT PRICE QV5100
$299
$249
HOT PRICE QV5602 $1,299 $1,099
2 Channel Mixer with Microphone Preamp
$119
Cat. No
WAS
NOW
HOT PRICE QC8687
$129
$89
HOT PRICE
SAVE
$40
QC3858 $89.95 $69.95
$20
LA5078
$49.95 $29.95
$20
WQ7277
$49.95 $39.95
$10
LA5359
$199
$149
QC8639 $99.95 $69.95
LA5215
$34.95 $24.95
$799
$699
$50
$30
$10
$100
$50
Concord 8 Ch. 4K NVR Package - 6x5MP Cameras
Economy UHF/VHF Masthead Amplifier
LT3276
$49.95 $34.95
$15
Motion Sensor Camera recorder with 38 IR LEDs
QC8027
HDMI 4K Repeater
AC1717 $34.95 $24.95
$10
Non-Contact Infrared Door Exit Switch
LA5187
$74.95 $49.95
$25
Rechargeable Solar Sensor Light
SL3239
$69.95 $54.95
$15
Concord 50m 4K HDMI Fibre Optic Cable
Portable 5.8GHz Wireless 1080p HDMI AV Sender
HOT PRICE WQ7496
HOT PRICE AR1901
$229
$179
$50
Cat. No
WAS
NOW
SAVE
POWER
$89
$79
$200
$10
IT & COMMS
125A Dual Battery Isolator (VSR)
MB3687 $49.95 $39.95
$10
0.5W 80 Ch UHF Transceivers
12V 8.5A Desktop Power Supply
HOT PRICE MP3258 $99.95 $69.95
$30
3W UHF CB Radio Tradies Pack - Pair
5W UHF CB Radio Tradies Pack IP67
$5
Cat. No
WAS
NOW
DC1027
$69
$59
$10
HOT PRICE DC1076
$329
$229
$100
HOT PRICE DC1069
$449
$349
$100
18W USB Type-C Mains Power Adaptor with Power Delivery
MP3410 $24.95 $19.95
240VAC Aluminium 48 LED Light Strip with Switch
ST3946
$59.95 $49.95
$10
Advanced 2 Watt 80 Channel UHF Transceiver with CTCSS
DC1049 $69.95 $59.95
240VAC Aluminium 72 LED Light Strip with Switch
ST3948
$69.95 $59.95
$10
Ethernet Over Power N300 Wi-Fi Access Point
YN8357
$149
$129
SAVE
$10
$20
$99
$30
Ethernet-Over-Power Kit
YN8355 $99.95 $89.95
$10
2600mAh Metallic Power Bank Rose Gold
MB3794 $14.95
$9.95
$5
VGA To Composite & S-Video Converter
XC4907 $49.95 $39.95
$10
2600mAh Metallic Power Bank Silver
MB3792 $14.95
$9.95
$5
Waterproof Floating 80 Channel 3W UHF CB Transceiver
DC1074
$129
$99
$30
2600mAh Metallic Power Bank Space Grey
MB3793 $14.95
$9.95
$5
ST3487
$4.95
2500 Lumen Rechargeable LED Torch
3 x Oslon Osram LED Torch
HOT PRICE
1/2 PRICE!
ST3499
$129
$9.95
$5
30W 5V 6A Encapsulated Mini Power Supply
MP3301 $42.95 $29.95
$13
5VDC 1A USB Mains Adaptor with Micro-B Cable
MP3544 $19.95 $14.95
$5
6300 Lumen 6.5 Inch Solid LED Driving Light
SL3920
$149
$129
$20
EDUCATIONAL KITS & GADGETS
AUTO & OUTDOORS
1080p Wi-Fi Dash Camera with GPS
3G GPS Vehicle Tracker
HOT PRICE
Cat. No
WAS
NOW
SAVE
QV3865
$189
$169
$20
LA9026
$199
$149
$50
Bluetooth® In-Car Earpiece with USB Charger
AR3135 $19.95 $14.95
FM Transmitter with USB & SD Playback
AR3136 $14.95
$9.95
$5
$5
Cat. No
NOW
SAVE
Cat. No
WAS
NOW
SAVE
Circuit Scribe Maker Kit
KJ9310
$89
$69
$20
Crookes Radiometer
GG2108 $59.95 $39.95
$20
Draw Circuits Circuit Scribe Basic Kit
KJ9340
$69.95 $59.95
$10
30 Piece Tool Kit with Case
TD2166 $29.95 $19.95
$10
QM1568 $49.95 $39.95
$10
HARDCORE
KJ9300
$149
$109
$40
3000A True RMS AC High Current Clamp Meter
Makeblock mBot Blue Robot Kit
KR9200
$199
$169
$30
300W Hot Air SMD Rework Station
MakeBlock Neuron Inventor Kit
KJ9190
$99
$79
$20
8 Piece 1000v VDE Set
Draw Circuits Circuit Scribe Ultimate Kit
HOT PRICE
HOT PRICE
TS1645
WAS
$159
$129
TD2031 $59.95 $39.95
MeetEdison Robot Kit
KR9210
$99.95 $79.95
$20
Benchtop 16-Bin Storage Organiser
HB6341 $49.95 $34.95
Motion Drone
GT4224 $34.95 $24.95
$10
2 Bay USB 3.0 SATA HDD RAID Enclosure
XC4688
Portable 14L 12V Cooler / Warmer
Puppy Go AI Smart Dog
HOT PRICE
$89
GH1373
$119
$89
$30
Arduino Compatible 16x16 LED Dot Matrix Module
XC4607 $24.95 $19.95
KR9234
$169
$129
$40
Arduino Compatible 3W 200 Lumen LED Module
XC4468 $10.95
$49.95 $39.95
Space Rail Construction Kit - Glow in the Dark
KJ9001
Squishy Circuits Deluxe Kit
KJ9352
Vinyl Record Carry Case
GE4101 $39.95 $29.95
More ways to pay:
$99
$129
$99
$6.95
$10
Arduino Compatible Ultraviolet Sensor Module
XC4518 $29.95 $24.95
$30
Long Range LoRa IP Gateway
XC4394
$10
USB Port Voltage Checker Kit
KC5522 $33.95 $19.95
$99
$79
$30
$20
$15
$10
$5
$4
$5
$20
$14
59
HOT OFFERS:
THREE
FILAMENT
3D PRINTER
SAVE $200
COLOUR MIXING
TECHNOLOGY
DESKTOP 3D SCANNER V2
WITH SOFTWARE
Watch real life objects become digitized • CAPTURES
before your eyes. Scans up to 250 x
GEOMETRY IN
180mm. Sleek, foldable design for
AS FAST AS
workspace storage. Comes packed with
1 MINUTE!
MFStudio software with +Quickscan.
• SCAN OBJECTS
• Scans up to 250(H) x 180(D)mm
WITH AN
TL4420 WAS $1499
ACCURACY
See website for details.
WITHIN
+/- 0.1MM
NOW
RESOLUTION.
MOOZ-3Z TRIPLE
FILAMENT 3D PRINTER
• Equipped with a three-color print head for
colour mixing
• Easy-to-use controller and mobile app
• Featured with 3.5" LCD touch pad, Wi-Fi USB
connectivity, magnetic heat bed and more
• Supplied with a roll each of cyan, magenta
and yellow filament to get you started.
• Prints up to: 100(H) x 100(Dia.)mm
TL4412 WAS $1499
1299
$
SAVE $200
Stream music from your Smartphone or Tablet via
Bluetooth® in true stereo, or connect via 3.5mm Aux input.
• IPX5 Water resistant
• Bluetooth® Wireless Technology
• True Wireless Stereo (TWS)
• Google Assistant & Siri® Support
CS2499 WAS $149
NOW
5 PORT USB CHARGING STATION
WITH STORAGE COMPARTMENT
• Charge up to 5 USB devices at the same!
• Maximum power output of 2.4A per port.
• Includes 6 dividers and a
12VDC, 4A power supply.
WC7766 WAS $59.95
NOW
119
$
SAVE $30
2 FOR
70
SAVE $49.90
15,000MAH PORTABLE
POWER BANK
• 4 x LEDs show charge status
• Dual USB Type-A ports
& 1 x USB Type-C port
• Up to 3A total power output
MB3806 $59.95 EA.
Modern touch sensitive monitor with clear vision to idenitfy
visitors. Provides electronic door strike and gate control, as well
as full talk-back to the outdoor unit. QC3884 WAS $399
• 2-way audio intercom
• Various melodies
• IP44 rated
329
$
95
SAVE $70
SAVE $20
$
7" LCD WIRELESS 2.4GHZ VIDEO DOORPHONE
NOW
39
$
SAVE $200
LOTS OF FILAMENT COLOURS & STYLES
AVAILABLE PRICE FROM $19.95
See website for details.
PORTABLE BOOM BOX SPEAKER
NOW
1299
$
WIRELESS TWS SPORT
EARPHONES WITH BLUETOOTH®
WI-FI IP CAMERAS
WITH INFRARED LEDS
R/C MOTORISED ROBOT ARM KIT
Suitable for night time use.
720P QC3849 WAS $69.95
NOW $49.95 (Shown)
1080P QC3862 WAS $79.95
NOW $59.95
Ideal for anyone interested in robotic
construction. 100g lift capacity. Supplied as a
kit of parts with detailed instructions. Requires
4xD batteries (SB2321 $8.95
sold separately). Ages 12+.
KJ8995 WAS $139
NOW
NOW FROM
NOW
Fits comfortably and pairs very easily.
Up to 3hrs play/talk time.
• Bluetooth® 5.0
• True Wireless Stereo (TWS)
• Built-in Microphone
AA2147 WAS $69.95
5995
$
SAVE $10
4995
$
SAVE $20
99
$
SAVE $40
TERMS AND CONDITIONS: REWARDS / CLUB MEMBERS FREE GIFT, % SAVING DEALS, & MEMBERS OFFERS requires ACTIVE Jaycar Rewards / membership at time of purchase. Refer to website for Rewards
/ membership T&Cs. IN-STORE ONLY refers to company owned stores and not available to Resellers. Page 1: 10% OFF Flashforge Filament applies to all colours and sizes. FREE GIFT: Buy Dash Cam (QV3849)
and get 32GB microSD card (XC4992) FREE. 15% OFF TV Mounting Brackets apply to CW2805, CW2811, CW2819, CW2834, CW2840, CW2851-53-59, CW2864-66-67-68-69, CW2874-75-78, CW2880-82-83.
Page 3: Buy 1 x QC3890 + 1 x QC3896 for $249. MULTIBUYS: 2 x MS6106 for $30. 2 x MS6104 for $50. 3 x LA5046 for $99. Page 4: Buy 1 x MP3741 + 1 x MP3746 for $219. Page 6: MULTIBUYS: Buy ANY 3
KITS for $40 applies to KM1090, KM1092, KM1094, KM1096, KM1098, KM1099, KM1097 & XC3758 or any combination. FREE GIFT: Buy In-car Monitor (QM3752) and get Headphones (AA2047) FREE. Page 8:
MULTIBUYS: 2 x MB3806 for $70. SUPPLY CHAIN DISRUPTION. We apologise for factors out of control which may result in some items may not being available on the advertised on-sale date of the catalogue.
For your nearest store
& opening hours:
H
NY
BA
AL
Y
W
Maddington
Unit 1A/1808 Albany Hwy
Kenwick, WA 6107
(08) 9493 4300
1800 022 888
www.jaycar.com.au
Over 100 stores &
130 resellers nationwide
HEAD OFFICE
320 Victoria Road,
Rydalmere NSW 2116
Ph: (02) 8832 3100
Fax: (02) 8832 3169
ONLINE ORDERS
www.jaycar.com.au
techstore<at>jaycar.com.au
Arrival dates of new products in this flyer were confirmed at the time of print but delays sometimes occur. Please ring
your local store to check stock details. Occasionally there are discontinued items advertised on a special / lower price
in this promotional flyer that has limited to nil stock in certain stores, including Jaycar Authorised Resellers. These
stores may not have stock of these items and can not order or transfer stock. Savings off Original RRP. Prices and
special offers are valid from catalogue sale 27.12.2020 - 23.01.2021.
SERVICEMAN'S LOG
One good turn deserves another
Dave Thompson
A client turned up at the workshop the other day with what I would
consider the perfect job for me. This bloke is a known audio ‘nut’ in my
old circle of friends. Although I hadn’t heard from him for many years,
he had tracked me down because he finally decided to fix up a few of the
‘vintage’ items in his vast collection of 70s and 80s audio gear.
I say ‘my circle of friends’, but I
didn’t really know him; I had met him
briefly, and knew of him by reputation
back when I was a young jobbing musician. He played bass guitar in one of
the many bands I used to cross paths
with while grinding out gigs on the local pub circuit.
He was known for being right into
his audio gear, so in lieu of any real
information available to us at the time
(no internet in those days), we often
bowed to his supposedly superior
knowledge in subjects related to sound
reinforcement and instrument amplification. For better or worse, he was a
fount of knowledge at the time; I had
to learn this stuff somewhere, right?
For those intent on writing off my
experiences, put those burning torches and pitchforks down; I admit I was
never a ‘rock star’ but I did play in
touring bands for many years, and one
picks up pertinent knowledge along
the way.
While I might not know what
amplifier and speaker combination works best in your man-cave/
lounge room, I could suggest what
sound reinforcement hardware
you would choose if you wanted to sonically light up a 500-seat
theatre!
My point is that we all knew this
bloke as an audio purist, and while we
somewhat blundered on with our typically low-fi stage gear, he was the one
who was really into the specifications
and minutiae of the speakers and amplification that were being used back
then. While I hesitate to label anyone
I’ve ever known as an ‘audiophile’, he
was probably as close as I ever came
to meeting one.
Not that he was in any way one of
siliconchip.com.au
these guys who proclaims that those
$500-per-metre, plutonium-enriched
gold and copper alloy speaker cables
as the only thing to use for a home
stereo setup. Or that one had to have
thousands of dollars’ worth of audio
hardware to have a good sound; he was
just really into his audio hardware.
Many of us likely know (or have
known) someone like this, to varying
degrees. I’ve met guys over the years
who insist that speaker cabinets need
to be mounted on Kryptonium-alloy
Australia’s electronics magazine
Items Covered This Month
•
•
•
Acoustic research turntables
PA system repair
HP5100 frequency synthesiser
repair
*Dave Thompson runs PC Anytime
in Christchurch, NZ.
Website: www.pcanytime.co.nz
Email: dave<at>pcanytime.co.nz
January 2021 61
needles embedded into unicorn-horn
substrate on an isolated, rubber-floored
room to really appreciate the sound of
their stereos.
And all this will have to be powered through some rare and obscure
Class ABCDEFGHIJK+ amplifier that
costs more than a small house. The
marketing bumf of the time laid it on
pretty thick, having us believe that
unless one has this type of system, it
simply wasn’t worth even firing up
the turntable.
This is obviously not the case, but I
gave up trying to convince anyone of
this a long time ago. To me, whatever
sounds good to me is the best system,
regardless of specs and cost.
It seems my old friend has mellowed a bit; maybe because of age and
wisdom, but likely also because his
now-wife doesn’t share his passion
for spending money on expensive audio gear. That said, he still uses and
swears by his many 70s and 80s highend amplifiers and turntables.
I only mention this because when
he called the other day, and after the
usual 30-minute, three-decade catchup conversation, he arranged to bring
in a couple of his Acoustic Research
(AR) turntables for me to have a look
at and see what I could do with. After
that is the promise of some more juicy
gear to work on. Life could be worse!
You turn me right ’round
Most people realise that anything
with words like ‘research’ or ‘labs’ in
the brand name must be excellent, and
therefore expensive; and back in the
day, in New Zealand, these Acoustic
Research ES-1s were.
They weren’t insanely expensive,
like the Mitchell Transcriptor turntable (featured in the movie A Clockwork
Orange), or the Oracle Delphi MK1,
both of which could be had here for the
price of a small car (minus tonearm,
of course, which they assumed you
would want to add yourself anyway).
But they were still relatively pricey
none-the-less.
The customer duly arrived with a
couple of banana boxes full of bits
and pieces, and I could see my work
would be cut out for me. One box contained one AR ES-1 turntable, which
was the most complete, but this had a
damaged drive motor and spindle assembly, which made the drive spool
wobble like crazy when powered up.
Even if I could get a belt to hang
62
Silicon Chip
onto it, playing any records would
be pointless and sound reproduction
would suffer badly.
The second box contained a turntable identical to the first, but which
had seen better days. While it still
powered on and the motor ran, the
veneered timber case was in a very
sorry state, and the power indicator
lamp was not working. This one was
also missing several pieces, such as a
tonearm, the tonearm mounting plate
and most alarmingly, the rectangular
clear Perspex cover.
The cover hinges were still attached
to the base, but the cover was nowhere
to be found. It transpired that this particular table had been bequeathed to
the current owner after the previous
owner had passed away; a sorry situation to be sure, but at least the turntable wasn’t just thrown into the garbage by the grieving family.
So, in summary, I had to repair two
Acoustic Research ES-1 turntables;
one was complete but had a wobbly
drive capstan, and the other was minus
a lid, tonearm and altogether incomplete and to be honest, a bit of a mess.
This was no problem for a serviceman like me, though! If he wanted to
pay me to restore these two beautiful
machines, I’d be more than happy to
oblige. However, I’m sure you see the
predicament; often, when servicemen start talking about the money involved, getting vintage devices back
to rude health can suddenly become
a lot less urgent!
I quoted the guy, and he was more
than happy to pay. Darn! I knew I
should have charged more!
Australia’s electronics magazine
Suspect #1
I tackled the most complete one first.
That entailed removing the platen,
which is simply held in by gravity, the
drive belt, and the eight screws that
held the cast metal plate to the timber
chassis, the fibre-board floor underneath the turntable (which is held on
with the four rubber feet screws) and
desoldering the wires that go from the
drive motor to the small circuit board.
The tonearm cables just go straight
through the mounting plate and out
through a cut-out in the fibre-board
floor to the amp, with just one small
plastic cable clip holding them in
place inside the box. Once these items
are removed, the whole mechanical assembly lifts clear, leaving what is essentially a timber box with a circuit
board and mains cable mounted to it.
Simple, to be sure, but very effective. The only problem with this one
was the bent drive shaft. God knows
how this happened, but it was severely
eccentric when running. Fortunately,
the customer had purchased a replacement motor from an internet auction
site, but hadn’t fitted it because he
couldn’t get the drive pulley off the
bent shaft.
This proved no real problem for
me, as I have the right tools for the job
(woohoo!). After removing the motor
(which required desoldering the two
motor power leads), I mounted it in
some jaws under my bench press and
gently pushed the pulley free.
I had to be careful because these pulleys are typically a cast alloy and are
very soft. It separated from the motor
shaft quite readily though, and I ran it
siliconchip.com.au
on a temporary mandrel in my cordless drill to check its concentricity.
The pulley itself was fine. I simply
mounted it onto the replacement motor with some Loctite and replaced and
re-soldered it back to the drive plate.
On switch-on, it ran almost perfectly, although it required a few light taps
on the high side with a small rubber
mallet to get it running dead true.
Another problem with this turntable
was the drive spindle on the platen itself. The heavy platen sits and runs in
what appears to be a phosphor-bronze
bearing. It had excessive play, and I
suspected this to be due to the bearing
drying out. These types of bearings are
usually pressure- or vacuum-infused
with oil when manufactured, and last
for years, but this one was bone dry.
I don’t have a vacuum chamber (I
know, I know), so all I could do was
fill the bearing with oil and leave it
standing for a few days before removing the excess and trying the fit again.
This time it was better, and operation
was smooth and steady, but since I had
no instruments to measure wow and
flutter (I know, I know), I’d have to go
with what I had.
The owner would either have to
get that bushing replaced, or re-oiled,
or do some regular lubricating maintenance on it in the future; he didn’t
seem too worried about this prospect
when I mentioned it to him.
Suspect #2
That brought me to the next pile of
bits. It’s always nice to have a fullyfunctional version to compare with
when assembling parts, and this time
was no different. I put all the metalwork back together and laid everything
out in the case, and the only part missing was the tonearm mount.
I took some measurements from the
working version. The plate appeared
to have been made from some kind of
painted hardwood, so I fabricated one
from an oak offcut I had in my timber
bins. I bored the four countersunk
mounting holes around the periphery, but left the rest undrilled; how
and where the other holes go would
depend on what tonearm he wanted
to use.
I offered to do that for him when the
time comes, and said he would let me
know. After filling, sanding and painting it with a semi-gloss black lacquer, it
looked almost the same (and as good)
as the original.
siliconchip.com.au
The same couldn’t be said for the
timber turntable case, though. It
looked like it had been left exposed to
the sun for many years, and all the dark
external veneer had peeled and flaked,
exposing the lighter timber beneath.
The only way to solve this was to
strip the veneer off and re-finish the
timber below. I used a coarse belt on
my belt sander to rip the old finish
off. While messy, it came off easily;
the trick is not taking any of the solid
timber underneath! I then used progressively finer paper on my recentlyrepaired 1/3-sheet sander to smooth
everything off.
A few coats of Danish oil brought
out the grain, and five coats of clear
lacquer resulted in a beautiful finish which was (luckily!) very close in
shade to the original model, so I was
happy with it. The customer was too,
when he saw it.
I didn’t have a Perspex cover for
it though, and couldn’t find one online. I contemplated making one from
scratch, but I didn’t have any plastic
heater/former/folder gear with which
to do it (I know, I know). Dad had all
that stuff, but I don’t know what happened to it.
The customer wasn’t too bothered;
he planned on putting the turntable
in a rack that had a top cover anyway,
so with his agreement I removed the
original lid hinges and plugged and
filled the holes left behind. I used
plugs of similar-coloured timber so
it wasn’t too obvious that it had been
done, though of course, if you looked
closely you could see it.
However, it was on the rear of the
case so the repair would be out of view
for the most part.
The next challenge was the indicator light. These turntables have a simple on/off switch mounted on the top
(under the plastic hood) that switches the motor, well, on and off. When
on, a pinpoint of orange light shows
through about halfway down the front
of the case and directly underneath the
power switch.
It is quite bright, so I wasn’t sure
exactly what was being used. Whatever it was had been glued or embedded into the timber on the inside of
the case, and someone in the past had
tried to remove it by simply pulling on
the connecting wires. They had parted
company, and I could see what looked
like the bottom of a peanut bulb stuck
in the hole.
Australia’s electronics magazine
Cautious use of a dental pick from
the inside of the case soon had the
lamp out, and it turned out to be a peculiarly-shaped neon bulb with a pinpoint at the tip, which is the part of it
I could see from the outside.
I have a good selection of neons
collected over the years, but I didn’t
have anything like this. I decided to
use a light-emitting diode instead, and
the customer was OK with this. The
problem was that the neon ran from a
160V AC feed from the circuit board (as
measured across the broken-off leads),
and I think that’s a little high for LEDs,
and they prefer DC too.
I installed a high-voltage full bridge
rectifier across the circuit board contacts which gave me a DC voltage I
could use for the LED. I calculated
I’d need a resistor of around 15kW to
drive the LED from this supply without blowing it. After installing the
LED into the hole and soldering everything up, I tentatively plugged it in
and switched on.
The LED was a little dim, so I
dropped the resistance to 13kW, and
that did the trick. After running it for
half an hour on the bench, nothing
became overly hot or emitted smoke.
The effect from the outside of the case
was almost the same as the neon, so I
was happy with it.
After insulating everything with
heatshrink tubing and tacking the
LED into the chassis with a small dot
of epoxy, I assembled everything into
the case and buttoned it up with new
rubber feet.
This turntable suffered the same
problem of excessive play in the platen spindle, so I did the oil bath trick
again, and that sorted it out. After fitting
a new belt the customer had supplied,
and trying out the drive system, I was
happy with the way it was running.
The final job was to re-attach the AR
badge lying in the bottom of the box to
the correct location on the front of the
case, and it was the job done!
PA system repair
R. J., of Laingholm, NZ found out
what happens when amateurs and
barely competent ‘professionals’ have
a go at installing or fixing a large PA
system. The result wasn’t pretty, so
he had to spend some time cleaning
up the mess...
My main focus is in broadcast studios, but I do get to work at theatres
and festivals and have a fair bit of
January 2021 63
equipment that needs maintaining, so
service jobs are part of the portfolio.
In the ‘good old days’, a band or
performer would turn up at a venue
with a sound system of variable quality
and crank it up to 11. But times have
changed, and most venues now have
good sound systems and some control
over the volume. Bands have been replaced in some places by a DJ who
can play any one of several thousand
songs, making it even more important
to have a quality sound system.
I have an acquaintance who runs a
performing artist booking business,
and before he books performers, he
checks out each venue. At one venue, he found the system to be terrible.
The owner who recently purchased
the business claims the system cannot
be that bad because it cost $50,000;
that was its value on the books when
he took over the business. So I was
called in.
It was a restaurant/sports bar/dance
floor and verandah in an industrial
area building which looked like it had
been a warehouse or a workshop. The
restaurant and bar fit-outs were well
done. The stage is bigger than most,
and at one time, the venue had been
fitted with an excellent system which
was well worth the stated value when
new.
The only fault I could see in the layout was the positioning of the speakers above the stage. They are mounted
behind the front line and close enough
to a back wall to cause feedback problems. The shock came when I was
shown the equipment rack, in a nonventilated office at the back.
It seems that the venue had some
sort of problem with the system which
caused a number of the original amplifiers to fail. The cost to have someone come and fix it was deemed too
much. It seems one of the regular clients of the bar said he could fix these
things. He got it going again by taking
out the non-performing amplifiers and
replacing them with domestic stereo
amplifiers!
The original amplifiers disappeared,
along with that patron...
The system was in a state of chaos
and disrepair. The owner wanted to
stage the repair process because his
venue had fallen on hard times, and
costs have to be managed as the owner
re-invents the place to meet the current market. This suited me as I could
do it as a fill-in job.
64
Silicon Chip
This system has a DBX Zone Pro
controller which can switch any one
of six sources to one of six zones. It
was not switching as expected, and
randomly dropping the level to various outputs. Fortunately, the agent is
Jands who have a local office and some
very competent people. There is no
field service. The DBX needs to be assessed on a test bench, so I took it over.
Next day they phoned to report that
they’ve found the fault and that it is
fixable at a reasonable price. I have it
back in a day, armed with a warning
that the problem is definitely heatrelated. Not only is the rack in the least
ventilated part of a building, but there
is also a kitchen adjacent, so the ambient temperature is warm. The rack
is well-made and has four fans in the
top, none of which work.
We agreed this was an urgent matter,
so I sourced four fans. The mounting
screws were different, but with some
assistance from a specialist, the replacements went in. The original fans
seemed to have failed due to debris
falling through the vents.
I put the DBX back in with an air
gap above and below, and a warning to
the owner that if the temperature goes
up, we will have problems. I also purchased an external fan to assist with
airflow, and removed most of the junk
on top of the rack, which was blocking the airflow.
Reprogramming the DBX with the
supplied software was easy.
Working through the amplifier levels, I found that they were nowhere
near what the venue needs. The monster amplifier in the rack used for driving the subs had failed. It was a brand
no one knows and uses components
we can’t find. It seems to have been a
short-lived European import brand. I
contacted the company who did the
original install, but they were not
helpful.
One good thing about this system
was the speakers. They were a wellknown European brand, and they all
functioned properly. They all had
power-handling capabilities well
above anything we could deliver.
There were two line-level XLR leads
from the stage back to the DBX. Whenever someone plugged into them,
there was a huge hum. I was told that
it had been like this since the system
was put in.
On the stage, a mixer of indeterminate parentage was feeding audio to
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the DBX. Replacing this with a small
Alesis ‘fixed’ the problem; the Alesis
line out is isolated from the local Earth.
But 99% of the visiting equipment is
not such a good design, so I would
have to come up with a better solution.
I located a couple of 600W:600W
transformers which have good audio
bandwidth. Don’t be fooled by the
cheap ones; they only go to 4kHz, and
the proper ones are not cheap. The
wall box on which the XLR sockets
are mounted has enough room for a
small PCB and the transformers, suitably wired and insulated. Now anyone can plug into the house and get
clean audio.
So the main job left was to upgrade
the amplifiers. We settled on a Class-D
Talon amplifier, which claims to deliver 2 x 450W. One was purchased to
see how it performs, and the result was
stunning. It has XLR inputs and can
be run in bridged mono mode. There
are two fans, and the unit is quiet and
runs relatively cool.
The owner was impressed and some
time later called me in, and we ordered
several more. Another afternoon’s
work, and we had a system which was
performing as well as ever.
I can’t believe the domestic stereo
amps lasted as long as they did. At
least one was cutting in and out on
one channel; likely, its power supply
was not up to 5+ years of 12 hours of
daily use. The other just had trouble
making steam. The two originally installed Aussie-made amplifiers are still
working. But there was one last problem remaining.
The venue has an AMS music system which streams music and video to
each client over a proprietary system
via an HP laptop computer. When this
system was installed, a ‘contractor’
was booked by AMS to run the cabling.
The cabling is not part of the rented
system, so its maintenance is the venue’s responsibility. From what I could
see, it had not been done properly.
One was run over Cat5 via a balun
which has one coaxial wire and a pair
of wires originally intended for feeding DC. There was another balun at the
end of the 40m cable with some RCA
connectors that had been grafted in
place of the original BNC connectors.
That it worked was more by chance
than design. The baluns were not designed for audio, resulting in significant losses of both low and high audio
frequencies. Cat5 has varying twists on
siliconchip.com.au
its four pairs, and the only pair suitable for audio is blue/white (pins 4 &
5). Replacing this cabling was not an
option given the cost.
I tried to source some Cat5 audio baluns but had difficulty finding them. I
eventually got hold of some suitable
RJ45 termination. An hour or so and
we have an ‘improved’ cabling system
which delivers audio at high quality
over Cat5. Just why this was never run
with proper audio cable and terminated with XLRs or TRS jacks will never
be answered.
The venue now has a grunty music
system which was well tested over
the next weekend, and a reliable pub
quiz system which fills the place on
Tuesday nights.
HP5100 frequency synthesiser
repair
R. F., of McCrae, Vic wrote in to tell
us a little bit about how he got into
electronics (see the Mailbag section in
this issue). In that letter, he mentioned
that he was fixing up an HP5100 frequency synthesiser. Here are the details of what was wrong with it, and
how he fixed it…
My earliest recollection of a “fabulous” electronics device was on display at an open day for prospective
students in the old cream brick Electronic Engineering School at the UoM.
It was an HP524A digital counter set
up to measure the speed of a rotating
shaft. It could measure frequencies
up to 220MHz and weighed a massive 55kg.
It had digital readout columns of 10
digits per decade. Somehow, it was
very cool; one of my clock-building
friends still has one. Years later, as engineering students, we keenly appreciated the precision and superb construction of the Tektronix 547 oscilloscope – one of the most sought-after
instruments in our laboratory sessions.
Hewlett Packard made a nice range
of ‘scopes, but was more renowned
for their general and specialised test
equipment, which brings us to the devices needing repair.
Back when I was home-brewing amateur radio linear amplifiers for HF and
two-metre operation, I decided that I
needed an accurate, high-resolution
signal generator. I heard of an HP5100A
synthesiser available at a give-away
price, so I bought it.
However, it needed an HP5110B
synthesiser driver, and despite an exsiliconchip.com.au
haustive search via eBay and other
channels, I could only find the driver
as part of a pair; the other part was a
J02 HP5100B synthesiser.
The HP5100A could generate signals in 0.01Hz steps from 0.01Hz to
49.99999999MHz, whereas the J02
HP5100B generated signals in 1Hz
steps from 1Hz to 29.999999MHz. Fortunately, the HP5110B could simultaneously drive both synthesisers. So
I bought the second synthesiser and
driver as a package.
To cut a long story short, I installed
the two synthesisers, the driver, a
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modified HP5061A caesium-beam frequency standard, an HP5245L electronic counter and an HP6263B DC
power supply into – you guessed it –
a Hewlett Packard Systems equipment
rack. This massive collection of boatanchors weighs over 170 kg.
The caesium beam tube of the
HP5061A was unserviceable when I
bought the unit for $100 about 15 years
ago, but the unit had a highly-accurate
5MHz crystal oscillator in a temperature-regulated oven. So I stripped out
the caesium beam assembly and related parts and replaced them with a
January 2021 65
erating techniques all combine to produce exceptional performance.
But inevitably, a small proportion
of components do fail. Over the past
few years, the performance of my units
slowly deteriorated until I had no
choice but to delve into them.
Repairing the behemoths
modern GPS receiver and controller
to synchronise the oscillator.
The very stable 1MHz output from
the HP5061A is connected to the synthesisers, driver and counter to provide GPS-accurate synchronisation,
and consequently extremely accurate
and stable frequency synthesis and
measurement.
It still seems like a small miracle
that all this stuff can work so reliably
as a total package. There are thousands
of components in the fully solid-state
system, hundreds of discrete transis66
Silicon Chip
tors, and just a few integrated circuits.
Fortunately, the total power consumed
with all devices on-line is just over
200W, so heat – the enemy of long-term
reliability – is at a minimum.
Clearly, the original HP designers realised that component quality and assembly workmanship had to be of the
highest order to ensure a high MTBF
rating, and this is part of the ‘wow factor’ associated with these early behemoths. Gold plated circuit board traces
and pins, beautifully loomed cables,
modular construction and simple opAustralia’s electronics magazine
The front panel of the HP5100A
synthesiser has an array of 103 pushbuttons to select the desired frequency.
At the rear, it has 46 coax cables going
to the HP5110B driver.
A harmonic generator takes the output of the 1MHz master oscillator and
feeds them through a series of filters.
These produce signals with discrete
frequencies of 30-39 MHz (in steps of
1MHz), which are fed to 10 of the BNC
sockets on the rear panel.
Each of these signals is also divided
in decade dividers to produce 3.0-3.9
MHz signals which also go to rearpanel BNC sockets. A further three
signals at 1.0, 3.0, and 24.0 MHz are
generated as driver outputs. All output signals are extraordinarily stable
and spectrally pure.
An elaborate power supply produces voltages of +6.3V DC and -12.6V DC,
and is always on to supply the temperature-controlled oven of the 1MHz
master oscillator and the oscillator
circuitry. A DPDT toggle switch with
Standby and Operate positions supplies the rest of the driver electronics.
I discovered that this switch was
faulty, with a defect that I hadn’t previously encountered. The switch toggle operated and felt completely normal, but only one of its poles was actually switching, thereby leaving the
-12.6V supply disconnected from the
instrument in both standby and operate modes. A replacement switch
brought the driver back to life.
With the HP5110B driver working
again, the HP5100A synthesiser performed well, but the J02 HP5100B
stubbornly refused to generate an output signal.
This near-twin of the HP5100A is
not quite as complicated, having a reduced frequency range and lower resolution. “Only” 73 push-buttons are
required to cover this range and resolution. The output frequencies from
the synthesiser are all derived from
the single 1MHz precision oscillator
in the driver, and its 23 output signals.
The synthesiser outputs are produced through the processes of fresiliconchip.com.au
quency addition, subtraction, multiplication and division. The array of 73
push-button switches supply -12.6V to
a matrix of diode switches.
Each diode switch comprises one
silicon and two germanium diodes,
normally biased off by 6.3V applied
to the silicon device. The -12.6V overrides the 6.3V through a resistive network and turns on the germanium diodes, allowing an RF signal to pass
through the matrix with low loss and
negligible delay.
A full description of the synthesiser
is beyond the scope of this article, but
through an extremely ingenious combination of mixers, multipliers and dividers, the signals from the driver can
be synthesised into any frequency between 1Hz and 29.999999MHz.
The synthesiser function is implemented by a low-frequency section
(3.0 to 39.0MHz) and a UHF section
(370 to 390MHz). The latter section
is mounted on an internal sub-frame
which swings outwards from the instrument, to provide access to the various modules and their interconnecting
cables. All told, there are 25 modules,
many of them plug-ins, and 125 germanium PNP transistors.
Despite its complexity, troubleshooting the synthesiser is relatively straightforward. If a single module fails, the device produces no output signal. Locating the faulty module, and confirming
it is indeed at fault, is difficult; but access is easy, and all the modules contain discrete components (1964 was
before ICs had hit the market).
I reflected that even the transistor had only been invented 15 years
beforehand, yet the mainly germanium transistors in the instrument
were capable of reliable operation up
to 390MHz. That led me to the 39 to
390MHz multiplier module, which indeed was faulty. I found that a 2N2402
transistor had failed.
This PNP Ge device was rated at
18V maximum between emitter, base
or collector and had a transition frequency of 220MHz. The nearest equivalent in my parts bin was a 2N3906 Si
device, rated at 60V and with a transition frequency of 250MHz.
It seemed to be operating as a ClassC amplifier, and biasing differences between germanium and silicon devices
proved to be unimportant when its replacement with the 2N3906 brought
the module and the entire instrument
back to life.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
January 2021 67
A 2021 variation
on an old theme . . .
The
Bass
Block
If you’re building a home theatre system,
or want to listen to music with small monitor
or tower speakers (because you don’t have room
for huge ones, perhaps), then this subwoofer is for you.
It’s compact and easy to build, but it pumps out plenty of
bass to fill in the gaps left by smaller speaker systems. Virtually all
music and movies can benefit from a healthy dollop of low-end sound!
S
ubwoofers have become
collisions. So ideally, you want a
commonplace in recent Features & specifications
sound system which doesn’t just
Frequency response: 40-100Hz, ±3dB;
decades. There are sevdie off below 50Hz.
25-150Hz, ±5dB
eral reasons for this: One is the Impedance:
Traditional speaker designs
nominally 4Ω
Ω
popularity of home theatre sys- Dimensions:
(whether sealed or bass reflex
240 x 272 x 396mm
tems with 5.1 surround sound Material:
boxes, or more exotic designs
16mm thick MDF
(where the .1 refers to the sublike horn-loaded or transmission
woofer). Another is the increaslines) all have similar difficulty
ing trend towards small speakers which are less obtrusive in reproducing this bottom octave without large drivers
in a home setting.
and enclosures. This is especially true where high sound
Compact speaker systems (and many larger ones) tend pressure levels (SPL) are needed.
to have a bottom end roll-off in the region of 50Hz. While
Speaker manufacturers have responded by developing
much of the satisfying bass components of music is in the drivers with extremely long excursions to “move more
50-60Hz range, there is still plenty below this level. For air”. Unfortunately, these drivers still tend to be large and
example, the bottom A on an 88-key piano with modern expensive.
tuning has a fundamental frequency of 27.5Hz.
In recent decades, mathematicians and audio/acoustic
For speakers with a -3dB point of 50Hz, at least half an engineers have developed new speaker enclosure configentire octave will be severely diminished, and the funda- urations which enable these bass frequencies to be repromental of the bottom note perhaps not heard at all; only duced in much smaller physical volumes.
the overtones and harmonics.
One such design, implemented by Julian Edgar, was the
It isn’t just classical or piano music either; other types of “Bass Barrel”, presented in the August 1997 issue of SILImusic which have a lot of content in the 20-50Hz range in- CON CHIP – (see siliconchip.com.au/Article/4846).
clude reggae, hip-hop, rap, rock and pop. And action movIt used a “Compound Isobaric 6th Order (A) Bandpass
ies make good use of the lowest octave,
Double Vent” enclosure. This type of cabBy Nicholas Dunand inet employs two drivers mounted faceto reproduce sounds like explosions and
68
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Behold the Bass Block, in all of its blocky magnificence! It
is made from MDF, which you could just leave “natural”,
but if you rout the edges and corners and paint it like this one,
it looks a whole lot better. You could also glue speaker carpet
to the outside (as was done with ye olde Bass Barrel). Read
on for more details on how I achieved the finish shown.
to-face in a ‘push/pull’ (out of phase) configuration, with
each driver working into separate volumes with different
vented tunings.
The net effect of the chambers interacting is an acoustic
bandpass response, where the upper roll-off, lower rolloff and passband frequency response can be manipulated.
This is particularly useful for subwoofers.
The Bass Barrel design has some advantages; chiefly, it
is small and cheap to build. It used a novel construction
technique that made building it much easier for people
with limited facilities. I built a couple of these subwoofers (as conventional rectangular MDF boxes) for two small
sound systems, and they were very effective.
Fig.1: the predicted response of the subwoofer design,
produced by “Speaker Box Lite”. The goal was to design a
small sub with a useful response up to at least 100Hz, and
down to as close to 20Hz as possible.
With a free version of the iPad speaker design app “Speaker Box Lite”, and using the original design as a starting
point, I set about investigating the substitution of these
new C3055 drivers.
The design goals were:
1. Keep the boxes as small and unobtrusive as practical,
with the smallest footprint.
2. Obtain the lowest possible bass extension.
3. Cross the subs over at around 90-100Hz to relieve the
Tannoys of some of the bass demands.
4. Be able to take advantage of “room gain”, managed
with equalisation and via the crossover.
Initially, I plugged the Thiele-Small parameters of the
new drivers and the original enclosure dimensions into
the software. The predicted response was not a beautiful
thing, so I started experimenting with different chamber
volumes and ports.
After many iterations using common sizes of PVC pipe
for the ports, I settled on the following design.
The total internal volume is 20L in two chambers: one of
15L, with a 210mm length of 32mm inner diameter electrical
conduit for the port, and one of 5L, using a 180mm length
of 63mm internal diameter plumber’s pipe for the port. The
box is made of 16mm MDF with both ports facing forward.
In the course of testing, I ran simulations on larger box
sizes. One design produced predicted bottom-end extension flat within ±1dB down to the mid-20Hz region. I built
a test box, and the measured response proved that it was
delivering well down in the predicted region. The internal volume of this design was 36 litres, but in the end, I
rejected it as simply being too large for me.
The predicted response from the software for the configuration I selected is shown in Fig.1. After building a test
box and measuring in a ‘free-air’ environment, the measured response is shown in Fig.2. It isn’t precisely as predicted, but close. Note that this measured response has 1/6
Fig.2: the actual ‘free-air’ response of the test sub built
to the specifications used to produce Fig.1. While not an
exact match, it’s pretty close and certainly meets the design
goals. The response changes somewhat when the sub is
placed within a room.
Fig.3: here is the room response, and by comparing it to
Fig.2, you can see the standing waves created at certain
frequencies by sound waves reflecting off hard surfaces.
This results in a faster high-end roll-off but also a useful
amount of low-end boost.
Updated version
Having recently acquired a pair of Tannoy ‘bookshelf’
studio monitors for another system, I decided to make another pair of stereo subs to go with them, to fill out the
missing bottom octave.
Referring to Altronics catalogue for the original drivers
used in the Bass Barrel (“Redback 6.5-inch woofers”, Cat
C3086), I found they were no longer available. There is,
however, a ‘replacement’ driver, the 165mm (6.5”) 30W
Woofer / Midrange Polypropylene Speaker (Cat C3055).
This driver has advantages and disadvantages compared
to the original. It has a reduced power handling capacity,
so the maximum possible SPL is lower. If you want to build
a subwoofer for a large home theatre set up, and have the
plasterboard crack whenever a Star Destroyer rumbles overhead, this may not be for you.
On the other hand, the driver parameters are more suited
to this application, allowing a deeper bottom end extension than the original design.
So it’s not that this design is bad for home theatre use;
in fact, it is very well suited, just at more moderate levels.
(Your neighbours can thank us later!)
Design process
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
January 2021 69
Fig.4: here, the response from the two ports is shown, along
with the overall response of the subwoofer. This gives
you an idea of how the two separate cavities and ports
contribute to the extended flat response of the subwoofer.
Fig.5: the response that’s possible from this subwoofer with
equalisation applied. It is now mostly flat from 24Hz up to
just over 100Hz; an excellent result for a sub this small!
octave smoothing applied. This is a nice, clean response.
On the face of it, the response is not ideal due to the
gradual and increasing roll-off at the bottom end. However, it is only down by 6dB at 30Hz and about 9dB at 25Hz.
This is less of a problem than it appears.
the order of +6dB of ‘room gain’ at 25Hz, which effectively
enhances the raw bass performance of speakers.
Unfortunately, the same reflections which can enhance
the bass also interact with the direct sound coming from
the speakers, producing what are commonly (probably incorrectly) referred to as “nodes”, where the amplitude of
the sound waves add, and “nulls” where they cancel out.
The actual result is entirely dependent on the speaker,
its placement, the room size and shape and the types of
surface treatments (eg, carpet, timber or tiles). The result
is that it is often difficult to predict and control the room
nodes.
I placed the stereo subs in my room and measured the
response at the listening position, which is shown in
Fig.3. Again, this measurement has 1/6 octave smoothing
applied, and all the good and bad results of room effects
are plain to see. While room nodes at 40Hz and 60Hz are
a problem, the worst peak is only +6dB.
Moving the speakers would likely change the response
considerably. Depending on the phase relationships at
these points, it may be possible to cancel out the nodes.
Room gain
At mid-to-high frequencies, the propagation of sound
from speakers is increasingly directional. This is commonly
referred to as a “two pi” response. However, at lower frequencies, the sound propagation becomes more omnidirectional or spherical, referred to as a “four pi” response.
There are several consequences of this characteristic.
The first is that it becomes less apparent where the sound
is coming from, and the speaker placement becomes less
critical for the stereo image. The second is that the very
long wavelengths at these frequencies pressurise the room
to a certain extent, and interact with the room boundaries
(especially the floor, where subs are typically placed).
The net effect of this is bass boost, which increases as
the frequency drops. It’s fairly typical to get something in
396
396
272
240
272
240
240
240
240
396
240
396
240
900 x 9 00 SHEET FOR A SINGLE UNIT
240
Fig.6: the easiest way to cut the 16mm panels for the
subwoofer(s) is to cut three strips from a 900x900mm (or
900x1800mm for two subs) sheet of MDF, then cut the strips
into the lengths shown.
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Silicon Chip
Fig.7: the basic
layout and
dimensions of
the subwoofer.
The hole which is
used for mounting both
drivers is 148mm in diameter
and comes within 18mm of the edge.
The upper port hole is approximately
68mm in diameter while the lower port hole is
40mm in diameter (if using the recommended pipes).
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.8: start
by glueing and
screwing (or nailing)
the first three panels
together like this.
Fig.9: next,
add the inner
baffle and base
panel.
On the plus side, the room gain has raised the measured
response so that it is now only about -4dB at 25Hz. Subjective listening tests bear this out.
Observing a Spectrum Analyser while listening to music will reveal that not a lot of recorded music actually has
much full-level content in the range from 20Hz to 25Hz.
However, deep bass from 25-50Hz is often present in rock,
dance and reggae music. Where it is, the boxes produce a
satisfying level of tight and clean deep bass at any volume
level that I listen to, and when integrated with the main
speakers, the overall full range response is rich and smooth.
When the boxes were driven with higher levels of pure
low-frequency sinewaves, there was some “chuffing” or
port noise coming from the small diameter port, but in real-life use (eg, listening to music), it was inaudible to me.
More for interest than anything else, I measured the
output from each port separately. This is shown in Fig.4.
As expected, the low-frequency response from the larger
chamber with the small port, while the higher frequencies come from the smaller chamber with the large port.
Crossover and equalisation
Although acoustic bandpass designs like this have an
inherent high-frequency roll-off, this is not good enough to
use as the crossover. These drivers have a rated response
up to 4kHz. Without a crossover, these higher frequencies
are audible from the finished sub. This would lead to undesirable interaction with the main speakers, so signals
at these frequencies need to be removed.
My Tannoys have a response down to around 50Hz, but
I wanted to relieve them of some of the bottom end effort,
so I aimed to cross them over at about 90Hz. So the subs
had to reproduce up to at least that frequency.
As mentioned earlier, the directionality of low-frequency sounds is less apparent than higher frequencies, but at
90Hz, this effect is certainly not absolute. Directional information in the music content is audible at 90Hz.
So for hifi use, I needed a stereo pair of subs. The cost
of these drivers is so modest that it hardly broke the bank,
and the upside is a doubling in the sound output enables
higher ultimate SPLs without overdriving the subs.
I am using miniDSP signal processors to cross over the
subs to the main speakers, and also to equalise the speaksiliconchip.com.au
ers and the room. There are two versions of this device,
the standard miniDSP (siliconchip.com.au/link/ab4c) and
the HD miniDSP (siliconchip.com.au/link/ab4d).
You could also use our DSP Active Crossover and Equaliser (May-July 2019; siliconchip.com.au/Series/335) or the
3-way Active Crossover for Speakers (September & October 2017; siliconchip.com.au/Series/318).
The miniDSP units provide many options for crossing
over and parametric equalisation of both its inputs and
outputs, to help manage speaker and room idiosyncrasies. Applying a modest amount of correction with these
units can easily yield a corrected free air response like
that shown in Fig.5.
This is an advantage of a design with a long shallow
roll-off rather than one which is initially deeper, but drops
off steeply.
Construction
Refer to the parts list to gather the required supplies.
Fig.6 shows a cutting diagram to help you cut the panels
required. The 240 x 240mm sheets are for the top and bottom of the enclosure, plus the internal baffle. The sides
are 240 x 396mm while the front and back pieces are 272
x 396mm. If you haven’t already, cut the conduit and pipe
to length.
Fig.7 shows what we are aiming to build.
The small port dimensions I chose were optimised to
Parts list (to make one subwoofer)
1 900 x 900mm sheet of 16mm thick MDF
1 210mm length of 32mm internal diameter electrical conduit
(40mm outer diameter)
1 180mm length of 63mm internal diameter PVC
(plumber’s) pipe
2 165mm (6.5in) 30W polypropylene woofers
[Altronics Cat C3055]
1 pair of panel-mounting speaker terminals
1 1m length of twin conductor speaker wire
4 spade crimp terminals, to suit speaker wire thickness
1 roll of acrylic speaker dampening material
[Jaycar Cat AX3694]
Nails, wood screws, construction adhesive, paint as required
Australia’s electronics magazine
January 2021 71
Fig.10:
then add the
side panel and glue
in the port pipes (if you
haven’t already). Make sure
the joints are well sealed.
provide the long, shallow roll-off I was pursuing. I made
the ports from thick-wall 40mm outer diameter electrical conduit.
Although it is quite cheap, it is typically sold in 4m
lengths (for around $9), leaving a lot left over.
An alternative is to use 40mm plumber’s PVC pipe with
an inner diameter of 38mm. This has the advantage of being available in short lengths from hardware stores, and the
larger diameter would likely reduce the risk of port noise.
However, this small difference in diameter produces a
notable difference in response, with a flatter initial (higher
frequency) curve, but a steeper roll-off.
Taking into account room gain, this would likely result
in a peak at around 30-40Hz, which is not so good for HiFi
use, but may well suit a home theatre application.
Another option is to use PVC pressure pipe with an inner diameter of 30mm. This produces a predicted response
closer to my chosen solution, but the smaller diameter of
the pipe risks increasing port noise under higher SPLs.
I chose the dimensions of the box to provide both a
small footprint and to simplify cutting. The pieces come
from three MDF strips. After cutting the strips, you can
then cut the individual pieces to length.
If you have limited facilities for cutting straight lines,
cabinetmakers and even timber suppliers will sometimes
cut pieces to order, or perhaps just the strips if you have
a drop or slide saw to cut the lengths.
The sheet sizes specified are commonly available at hardware stores, and there will be a little left over, but not much.
The general construction procedure is:
1. Cut the individual rectangular pieces.
2. Use a jigsaw to cut the 148mm driver hole offset in the
baffle, the port holes (note: not portholes!) in the front
panel and (if appropriate), a hole for the speaker terminal in the back panel.
3. Drill the holes for the speaker mounting bolts in the
baffle.
4. Cut the port tubes to length, glue them into the front
panel with construction adhesive and put it aside to cure.
5. Starting at one end, glue and screw the first three pieces together flush, as shown in Fig.8. If you have a small
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Silicon Chip
nail gun, putting a couple of tacks in first will hold everything in place until the screws go in.
6. Fix the baffle in place, then the other end piece (see
Fig.9). Remember to mount the baffle with the offset
driver cutout closest to the still-open side
7. Mount the drivers and wire them up to each other (out
of phase) and to the speaker terminals. I recommend
applying a small amount of sealant to the rims of the
speaker and around the mounting holes, as well as the
hole where the lead passes through the baffle. You can
wait until the facepiece is mounted to do this, but it’s
easier now.
8. Fix the face panel (see Fig.10).
9. Place some polyester wadding around the inside surfaces of the two chambers.
10. Fix the last side in place or, if you want to make it removable as with my test boxes, apply some thin foam
as a gasket and screw the side on without glue.
Aesthetics
There are various options for finishing the boxes. Automotive type carpet was particularly practical for the original Bass Barrel because the cylindrical shape was relatively
This test speaker was built with a thick piece of acrylic
in place of one of the MDF side panels. I did this so that
I could observe the driver excursion, to make sure it was
not excessive. I don’t recommend that you do this, but you
could if you really want to.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Panel: Making the measurements
The software I used for measuring the
subs’ actual response is Room Eq Wizard
(REW). This excellent, comprehensive
software produces a sinewave swept
from 15Hz up to 20kHz and samples the
response picked up by a microphone (or
sound level meter). It can then apply many
analytic processes to the measured result,
not just frequency-domain measurements.
The process involves first measuring
the ‘native’ response of the speakers, then
measuring the whole system response in a
real-world room setting.
The native response shows what the
speakers would produce in a completely
neutral environment, but in real life, of
course, this never exists.
Acoustic engineers make these measurements in an anechoic chamber where all
reflections and external interference can
be effectively eliminated.
Without an anechoic chamber, the
unwanted influences can be reduced in
a couple of ways. One is to make the
measurements in the most open environment possible. Making the measurements
outside in the middle of a sports field would
go a long way to eliminating the effects of
room interference, but is hardly practical.
Many of the response graphs in this article were made in a very large empty workshop, with the speakers about 2m above the
ground. These are the measurements I have
referred to (perhaps erroneously) as ‘free
air’. Although it is certainly not equivalent
to an anechoic chamber, it is as near as I
can come for practical purposes.
Another way to reduce unwanted
interference is to make measurements
‘nearfield’.
This involves placing the microphone
quite close to the speakers and making
the measurements at modest SPLs. In a
nearfield position, the relative SPL coming from the speaker is much higher than
that of the reflections coming from the
environment. Consequently, impingement
of the interference on the measurement is
largely reduced.
For these measurements, I used a
calibrated microphone from miniDSP
(siliconchip.com.au/link/ab4e).
Unlike professional microphones costing many hundreds or thousands of dollars,
these USB microphones are cheap! The
microphones don’t need to be fancy (or
accurate for that matter), they just need to
be able to sample the full spectrum of audible sound, and be themselves measured.
Each microphone is supplied with a
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matching calibration file, which is then
loaded into the measurement software,
to adjust the incoming measurements
accordingly.
Note that in all the response plots, you
can disregard the varying absolute amplitude measurements on the left Y-axis of
the graph. These simply reflect different
measurement volumes at various locations
and points in the room. What we are really
interested in is the relative flatness and
smoothness of the response.
The small-scale variations in the curve
are dependent on the measured frequency
response, of course, but also the ‘smoothing’ applied to the response graph.
Speakers never reproduce all frequencies equally, and room effects produce
responses similar to comb filtering, where
nodes and nulls cancel or enhance particular narrow frequency bands.
These can easily be heard if you put a
sine wave generator with uniform amplitude
into the system and very slowly sweep
through the frequencies. Many dips and
peaks can easily be heard as changes in
volume as the frequency changes. In many
cases, though, these narrow bands are
never heard in real-world listening to music.
REW can take up to one million samples
per sweep of the audio spectrum (although
I settle on 512,000). This means that it
can resolve tiny frequency band variations
which might not be at all audible.
For practical use, the response plots
can be ‘smoothed’ for different purposes.
The software offers smoothing options
from one octave (which produces a curve
that manufacturers might like to present to
customers) through to 1/48th of an octave,
which reveals many artefacts which might
not be audible. There are also specialised
options like “psychoacoustic smoothing”.
Plots of the sub’s response with various
smoothing options are shown in Figs.a-e.
Throughout the article, I’ve used 1/6 octave
smoothing, which reveals plenty of detail
without showing extraneous information
which is probably not relevant. The 1/6
octave smoothing comes out looking much
like the psychoacoustic option.
Note that the psychoacoustic smoothing reduces some of the low-frequency
peaks and troughs visible with 1/6th octave
smoothing, and accentuates some in the
higher frequencies. Without knowing the
algorithm used to make this smoothing,
it’s probably fair to say this is intended to
provide a more accurate representation
of what the human ear would perceive.
Australia’s electronics magazine
Fig.a: one-octave smoothing gives an
almost useless result – it’s just too
smooth!
Fig.b: 1/6th-octave smoothing is about
right. You can see the details of the
response, including standing wave
peaks and troughs, and accurately
gauge the turnover points and roll-off
steepness.
Fig.c: 1/48th-octave smoothing also
gives a reasonably good result,
although it’s questionable whether
the extra detail is helpful. In some
cases, such as when optimising edge
diffraction, it could be.
Fig.d: without smoothing, the result
is similar to 1/48th octave smoothing
over most of the portion of interest, but
gets very noisy above 200Hz, mainly
because the sub isn’t producing much
(if any) output at those frequencies.
Fig.e: psychoacoustic smoothing is
an interesting option as it appears to
give a useful curve that supposedly
compensates for the properties of
human hearing.
January 2021 73
easy to wrap, and trim out with edging. The block shape
here would make the trimming a bit more of a fiddle to
get a neat finish. An alternative is polish over iron-on timber veneer, or a laminate finish or, as I did, a paint finish.
I began by rounding over all the edges with the router
(making sure all the nail and screw heads were well down
so the router didn’t hit them). I also rounded over the port
openings. Theoretically this smoothes the passage of the air
as it pumps in and out of the ports and reduces the likelihood of chuffing. I couldn’t hear any difference, but I liked
the appearance better. After routing, I filled and sanded all
the holes and applied a general primer to seal the MDF.
It takes quite a lot of work of filling and sanding to completely hide the joins in MDF boxes – they can stubbornly
show even after several coats of automotive spray putty.
I used a pressure pack can of “Granite Effect” paint to
create the texture. This paint comes out as splatters of different greys to simulate granite. I didn’t want the light/
medium grey colour of the paint, but I used it to create
the base texture surface. The top coat was a satin dark
“charcoal” colour. But this material is expensive, difficult to work with, and certainly not needed for the functioning of the box.
You can also see that the boxes are “empty”. It is common practice to put damping material inside speakers,
which can provide various benefits.
I tested the boxes with differing amounts of stuffing, but
the frequency response didn’t change at all. That does not
mean that it serves no function. I didn’t test impulse response, for example, and damping material may well help
in this respect. In the end, I left some in on the surface opposite the drivers.
SC
What about a barrel?
The design presented here is not particularly suited
to the PVC pipe construction used in the original “Bass
Barrel” article because of the port lengths.
But it is possible to tweak the design so you can build
it that way – see Fig.11. The material for the baffle and
the ends is 16mm MDF again. In this case, the 63mm
inner diameter pipe is 200mm long instead of 180mm.
The 32mm inner diameter pipe is still 210mm long.
This results in a predicted response as shown in Fig.12.
The response is similar to my original design with
a 38mm diameter small port: the overall response is
flatted, but it has a steeper roll-off, which when room
gain is taken into consideration, might produce a less
‘manageable’ result.
Using this design with the 38mm port accentuates
this characteristic, with a further raising and straightening of the initial curve and a steeper low-end roll-off.
I was not personally interested in this construction
method, so I did not build and measure a test speaker.
Most likely, further tweaking could produce alternative (possibly enhanced) variations for this construction method.
Speaker Box Lite (and similar) software enables many
different configurations of drivers and enclosures to be
investigated easily.
TUBE
68
DIAMETER
168
~300mm
(eg STORM
WATER PIPE)
Fig.11:
if you
want to make
a “Bass Barrel”
as per the August 1997
article, but with currently
available drivers, here are the
dimensions.
If you don’t have an anechoic chamber but want to
characterise speaker response accurately, you either need
to do it in a wide-open space, or else perform ‘nearfield’
measurements, as shown here. This involves placing the
microphone very close to the speaker, so that reflected
sound waves are at very low levels compared to the direct
sound being measured, and thus do not unduly affect the
results. This test was done prior to the final box coating.
74
Silicon Chip
Fig.12: the predicted response of the barrel version of the
subwoofer is very close to the rectangular version.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions will be
paid for at standard rates. All submissions should include full name, address & phone number.
A reliable solar lighting system
The steps to my shed do not all have
the same tread depth and riser height. I
am used to them, but I still have some
difficulty on moonless nights. A few
years ago, when solar-powered garden lights became available cheaply, I
bought a few of them and poked them
into the ground alongside the steps, and
I could finally see the steps at night.
The problem is, these things are only
made to have a life of about 12 months
if you’re lucky, and soon they needed
repair or replacement.
After going through a couple of repair/replacement iterations, I decided
that I needed a more permanent solution. I had collected a few 18650-size
Li-ion cells which still seemed to have
some life left, so I decided to use these
in a lighting system for the steps.
I needed to mount the actual lights
on something solid so they wouldn’t be
destroyed by a brush-cutter. I mounted the LEDs in a length of rectangular
steel tube from a discarded swing set.
I mounted this so that it also formed
a handrail for the steps using tubular steel supports concreted into the
ground with welded brackets.
The four LEDs came from a defunct
garden light. Once they were mounted
siliconchip.com.au
to the underside of the handrail, I ran
a cable into the shed. The accompanying circuit diagram shows the solar panel, battery charger and battery
manager for the lights.
The circuit switches on the lights at
nighttime but switches them off once
the battery is flat.
The solar panel is a 10W, 12V type
left over from a previous project, already mounted on the shed roof. The
XL6009 buck-boost regulator module reduces the voltage from the solar
panel to the 5V required to run the
TP4056-based Li-ion battery charger.
The low voltage cut-off circuit below prevents damage to the Li-ion cells
from over-discharge. Op amp IC1a acts
as a voltage comparator with the reference coming from VREF1, an LM385BZ. This device only requires tens
of microamps to operate and produces
an accurate 1.2V which is fed to pin
2 of IC1a. Its other input pin samples
the battery voltage via a 120kW/100kW
divider.
When the battery voltage falls to
2.7V, the output of IC1a goes low and
so NPN transistor Q2 switches off. The
gate of Mosfet Q1 is then pulled up to
its source voltage by the 100kW resis-
Australia’s electronics magazine
tor, so Q1 turns off, preventing current from flowing from the battery to
the LEDs. About 200mV of hysteresis
is built into the switching point by
the 560kW positive feedback resistor.
The LEDs are also switched off during the day due to the action of NPN
transistor Q3. When the solar panel
voltage rises above about 1.2V, Q3’s
base-emitter junction is forwardbiased, and so it switches on, pulling
the battery-related voltage at pin 3 of
IC1a low, close to 0V. This is sensed
by IC1a as if the battery is flat, so again
it switches the LEDs off.
The rest of the time (ie, when the battery is above 2.7V and the solar panel
is in darkness), the LEDs are connected across the battery and so they light
up. The garden light LED modules incorporate current-limiting resistors to
prevent them burning out with a fully
charged (4.2V) battery, not shown on
the circuit diagram.
Note that Q1 was chosen so that it
would present a low channel resistance
with its gate at -2.7V compared to its
source, ie, just before the low-battery
cutout activates. It must also have a
sufficiently low on-resistance to avoid
getting too hot (~20mW in this case).
K. G.,
One Tree Hill, SA. ($80)
January 2021 75
Converting a cheap welder to a high-current battery charger
I modified a low-cost Kenstar 200A
IGBT inverter welder so that it can be
used as a welder or a battery charger.
An added switch and relay allows either of the two functions to be selected.
The circuit uses the common
UC3846 switchmode controller chip.
Its output voltage can be varied from
11-22V, with the typically ~14.4V
charging voltage for 12V lead-acid batteries well within this range.
Generic IGBT or Mosfet welders are
cheap to buy and usually easy to repair
or modify. If they fail, it is often the
auxiliary ±24V power supply module
that is faulty.
I bought my welder for $7 in a nonworking condition and repaired it for
a few dollars. For any engineer used
to working on mains-powered equipment, it is easy to modify it to charge a
car battery. The high-voltage side does
not have to be changed – only the lowvoltage control board.
I purchased a low-cost LED voltage/
current meter online to display the battery voltage and charging current (see
our article on these meters in the De-
cember 2020 and this issue on p102;
siliconchip.com.au/Series/306). It is
necessary to add a current shunt resistor to sense and display the charge
current; most meters come with the
shunt. Both are shown in my circuit
diagram.
The modifications for switching between charging and welding are as follows. I added a 12V regulator on the
+24V rail which generates a voltage to
switch the coil of the added relay via
the charge/weld switch.
I cut the connection between pins
The modifications marked on the welder – remember to be careful when
working on mains-powered equipment.
Radiating test antenna for AM radios
Most transistor radios, and many
later valve models, use ferrite rod antennas. While some of these provide
external antenna/Earth connections,
most don’t.
While it is possible to connect a
signal generator directly to sets that
do have antenna connections, proper
alignment demands the use of a ‘dummy’ antenna to mimic the capacitive
nature of the few metres of wire typically used.
This radiating antenna solves several problems. It will work with all sets
using ferrite rod or wire loop antenna
circuits, needs no electrical connections to the set being tested and, for
ferrite rod antennas, gives an actual
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Silicon Chip
sensitivity calibration in microvolts
per metre (µV/m).
The antenna uses an ordinary 200 x
9.5mm ferrite rod. The coil is seventeen turns of wire, 0.4-0.65mm diameter (22~26 B&S gauge), spaced over
100mm. The two resistors, 100W and
82W, are carbon types. The antenna can
sit in a simple non-metallic cradle of
timber or plastic.
Placed close to the set under test, it’s
possible to inject IF signals at a high
enough level for IF alignment, even for
the low-sensitivity Regency TR-1 with
its unusual intermediate frequency of
262kHz. This eliminates the difficulties of injecting to the converter base
in compact sets.
Australia's
Australia’s electronics magazine
For broadcast alignment, set the
radiating antenna 600mm from the
receiver’s antenna and parallel to it,
and align at the usual frequencies of
1610kHz for the oscillator trimmer,
600kHz for the local oscillator coil
and antenna and 1400kHz for the antenna trimmer.
Once you have completed alignment, you can easily determine your
set’s sensitivity for 50mW output. With
the radiating antenna 600mm from the
set’s antenna rod, divide the generator
output by 20 to get the field strength
at the receiver.
For example, a signal generator output of 20mV RMS gives a field strength
of 1mV/m at the receiver.
The radiating loop gives useful results on sets with frame antenna loops,
but the radiating loop must be aimed
perpendicularly at the frame antenna
for measurement results.
This design is based on information
in Mingay’s Electrical Weekly, October 18, 1963: Pye Caddy Transistor
Portable Receiver Service Data Sheet.
Ian Batty,
Rosebud, Vic. ($80)
siliconchip.com.au
6 and 7 of IC2, the UC3846, and I also
cut the connection between output
pin 1 of op amp IC1a and input pin
12 of op amp IC1d. Both of these broken connections are re-connected via
the added relay contacts when it is
energised (ie, when the switch is in
the WELD position), hence the circuit
works as it did before.
The switchmode controller operates
to regulate current while in welding
mode, and voltage in charging mode.
Current feedback to IC2 is usually via
IC1a and IC1d as mentioned above, but
when in charging mode, I instead feed
the 5V reference voltage from pin 2 of
IC2 back to pin 12 of IC1d via one of
the relay’s normally-closed contacts,
disabling current regulation.
siliconchip.com.au
In the case of pins 6 & 7 of IC2,
these are also disconnected when in
CHARGE mode, and there is instead a
12kW resistor connected between these
pins (it’s shorted out when the relay
contacts close).
This changes the compensation in
the feedback loop of the switchmode
controller, which is necessary for stable operation in the 11-22V range.
When in CHARGE mode, the output voltage is set by potentiometer
VR1 which is connected across the
output terminals with 12kW padder
resistors at either end (to limit the
adjustment range to be within the
capabilities of the controller) and an
added 10,000µF 25V filter capacitor.
The 12V zener diode is to protect IC2
Australia’s electronics magazine
from excessive feedback voltages.
The feedback voltage from the wiper of VR1 goes to pin 6 of IC2 (EA-)
via one of the normally closed relay
contacts. This switches the controller
into voltage regulation mode for battery charging.
Now, when my car battery is a bit
flat, two minutes charging at 20A will
get the car started. Please see my YouTube video on making these changes at
https://youtu.be/a2G7hFAv02k
Warning – working on mains-powered equipment can be dangerous. Do
not attempt these modifications unless
you are an experienced engineer. It is
not for beginners!
John Russull,
Cambodia ($120).
January 2021 77
For those times when
you DON’T want to
be interrupted . . .
I’m
busy.
Go
away!
OK, it’s a bit tongue-in-cheek . . . but it could have other, more serious,
uses. The Busy Dunny Door Warning flashes a bright LED light on the
door when you, ahem, don’t want someone barging in. When you leave
and open the door the light goes out! It’s a simple idea with a real simple
circuit – but it makes a superb beginner’s project . . .
T
he idea for this little project
came about when avid SILICON
CHIP reader John Chappell was
sitting, reading his latest copy . . . and
the dunny door burst open, with obvious embarrasement all around.
So maybe he had taken a bit longer than normal; maybe he was so engrossed in the magazine that he didn’t
hear anyone yelling out . . . but it started him thinking how to avoid the delicate situation in the future.
One problem was that the door lock,
umm, didn’t.
So without replacing the lock, how
78
Silicon Chip
to let others know that the best seat in
the house was, umm, occupied – without the embarrasement!
Light bulb LED moment
Of course, that was the answer: a
bright, flashing LED that would let
others know not to barge in.
If it was made somewhat automatic
– ie, it turned off when the outhouse
door opened to let him out, so much
the better. And this really simple circuit is the outcome.
Original by John Chappell
Australia’s electronics magazine
When the pushbutton (S1) is
pressed, both the LED mounted on
the door and the internal LED start
flashing.
Why two LEDs? One is the ultrabright warning LED mounted on
(or through) the dunny door to warn
others that it is occupied. The second
(internal) LED merely confirms that
the circuit is operating.
Overkill? Perhaps - but at the cost of
a 10c LED and a 5c resistor, it doesn’t
add much cost to the project.
When the dunny door is opened, a
magnetic reed switch resets the cirsiliconchip.com.au
You’re looking at the entire
project! On the left is a reed switch and magnet
which turn the LED off when the door is opened. At right
is the door-mounted ultrabright LED, while the internal LED in
this case is integrated with the pushbutton “start” switch
cuit and the LEDs turn off. It really is
that simple!
As we said earlier, it makes a great
beginner’s project. Parts are as cheap
as chips; it’s battery operated (and
the battery will last for yonks) and it
doesn’t use any of those pesky surfacemount devices that beginners have so
much difficulty soldering.
Total assembly time shouldn’t be
much more than an hour.
The circuit
It’s shown in Fig.1 – and as you can
see, there’s not much to it!
It’s based on a 4093B CMOS quad
2-input Schmitt trigger NAND gate
chip (IC1). Now if all those words
scare you, don’t worry: see the panel
“What is a NAND gate?” and all will
be revealed.
The four NAND gates are configured
in different ways.
IC1a is an inverter: when its inputs
are low, the output is high (and vice
versa).
With the door closed, the magnet
pulls the “normally open” reed switch
closed, which in turn means IC1a’s
inputs are both low – so the output
is high.
IC1b and IC1d form a latch with the
inputs to IC1d normally high. Think
of a latch just like a door latch: it’s
normally at rest but needs someone
to actuate it.
In this case, when the push button
siliconchip.com.au
(“Start”) switch is pressed, the latch
is reset by forcing pin 12 of IC1d low
which forces the output, pin 11, high.
This also enables IC1c, with its 47kΩ
resistor and 10µF capacitor, to start
oscillating, with its output going high
and low at a rate set set by the time it
takes the tantalum capacitor to charge
and discharge – in this case the rate is
about one second.
As it goes low, the two LEDs connected in series between its pin 10
output and +9V become forward biased and therefore light up.
Incidentally, you can change the
flash rate by changing the resistor and/
or capacitor. Increasing either (or both)
will slow the rate down and, as you
would expect, decreasing will speed
the rate up.
When the door is opened, the reed
switch opens (when the magnet moves
away), IC1a inputs go positive because
of the 100k resistor connected to
9V and the circuit reverts to its dormant state.
Power
The circuit is powered by a single 9V
battery which, due to the intermittent
drain, should last for almost as long as
its shelf life. For the same reason, no
on/off switch is provided or needed.
(Of course, if you decide to read War
and Peace during your “visits” you
might not get quite that life).
l
l
Fig.1: the circuit consists of
one quad Schmitt NAND gate,
designed to flash an ultrabright
LED mounted on the door. It
is actuated by S1, the “Start”
switch and automatically turned
off when the door is opened.
Australia’s electronics magazine
January 2021 79
Fig.2: the PCB component
overlay will help you
place the components in
the right positions. Watch
the polarity of IC1, the
diode and LED and both
of the capacitors. This
PCB is different from
the photo at right in that
it has “extensions” on it
to allow it to snap into
place in the Jiffy box.
These can be cut off if
not needed.
The battery snap leads can connect
to a header set, or feed under the board
and up through the hole at bottom left
before soldering to their respective
pads from the board top. This gives
some strain relief to prevent the rather
thin leads breaking off.
A 1N4004 silicon diode is included
in series with the battery to prevent
damage if you try to connect the battery
back-to-front (surprisingly easy to do!)
A single 10µF capacitor bypasses (or
filters) the 9V supply. While a tantalum capacitor is specified in the parts
list, you will probably note from the
photos that a standard 10µF 16V electrolytic was used. Either is fine – but
the other 10µF capacitor (on pin8 of
IC1c) should be a tantalum.
Construction
There are only ten components to
solder to the PCB and only five of these
are polarised: the 4093B IC, of course,
the on-board LED, the 1N4004 diode
and the two capacitors. Fit the resistors first – as well as reading the colour
codes in the parts list, use your multimeter to confirm their value.
In the case of the tantalum capaci-
The PCB photo is
reproduced larger than
life size. It is of an early
prototype and there are
some differences between
the overlay and this board
– for example, S1 and
LED1 are both housed in
the same bezel (you can
use this type or a separate
LED and switch). Also
in this case, the battery
connector is “hard wired”
to pads on the board and
using the hole at lower left
for strain relief.
tors, the + marked on their body goes
to the + mark on the PCB. (“Ordinary”
electros have the – leg marked; this of
course goes to the – mark on the PCB).
Similarly, make sure the stripe on
the diode aligns with the stripe on the
PCB. Finally, note the notch on the end
of the quad gate IC: it goes closest to
the right edge of the board.
The anode of the internal LED is the
longer of the two leads – again, it goes
to the “A” marked on the PCB.
S1, the “start” switch, should be soldered direct to the PCB.
The reed switch and external LED
both connect via thin insulated wires
to their respective screw terminals on
the PCB (reed switch to CON1; LED
to CON2). Watch the LED polarity –
make sure the anode connects to the
A marking on CON2.
Before drilling the case and mounting the completed PCB, connect the 9V
battery and check operation. Hold the
door magnet close to the reed switch,
then press S1. Both LEDs should start
flashing; move the magnet away from
the reed switch and they should stop
flashing.
If none of this happens, check your
The battery snap wires
are quite thin, so they go
through a strain-relief hole
in the PCB before soldering
to their respective pads.
As mentioned in the text,
the capacitor at lower
right is specified in the
parts list as tantalum but
here, a standard electro
is adequate. The other
capacitor (the yellow
component) should be
tantalum due to their lower
leakage.
80
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
component placement, orientation
and soldering. With so few components, there is very little else that
could go wrong. If all else fails, measure the battery voltage when the circuit should be on. It should be at or
very close to 9V.
Mounting the PCB
The board sits upside-down in the
Parts List –
Dunny Busy Warning
1 PCB, 38.5 x 49mm; code 16112201
1 UB5 Jiffy case, 83 x 54 x 31mm
[eg, Jaycar HB6025]
1 reed switch set (reed switch &
magnet - often sold for alarm
systems – eg, Jaycar LA5027)
1 small momentary contact
pushbutton switch (S1) #
2 mini PCB mount connectors
1 4093 quad Schmitt NAND gate (IC1)
1 1N4004 diode (D1)
1 ultrabright red LED [eg, Jaycar
ZD0102]
1 standard red LED #
Suitable mounting for internal and
external LED
1 9V battery snap
1 9V battery
Capacitors
2 10µF 16V tantalum
Resistors (0.25W, 1%)
2 100kW (brown black yellow brown)
1 47kW (orange violet orange brown)
1 1kW
(brown black red brown)
# we used a pushbutton switch with
an integrated LED; provision is made
on the PCB for this or for separate
switch and LED.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: the PCB mounts
upside-down in the
case, held in place
by the notches in the
case edge. The
component at left (on
the red/black wires)
is the ultrabright LED
which mounts on the
door.
jiffy box – the board is designed to
snap into the captive guides on the
box sides. You’ll need to drill holes
in the bottom of the case (which becomes the top!) for “start” switch (and
internal LED).
If the start switch is soldered directly to the PCB, you need to be quite accurate with the hole placement.
Another hole is needed in the top of
the case (which becomes the bottom!)
for the wires to go off to the reed switch
and to the door LED.
Mounting the door hardware
The exact location of the warning
LED is entirely up to you – whatever
gives the best visibility.
That might be actually through the
door . . . or it could be on the door
jamb. A wide variety of LED bezels is
available, some of which are designed
to work through a door or jamb.
Or you might simply glue the flat
base of an ultrabright LED to the outside of the door, with a couple of fine
holes for its leads/wires.
The reed switch and its magnet need
to be placed so that when the door is
closed, the magnet comes very close
to the reed switch (without hitting
it!). It’s probably best to have the reed
switch on the door jamb and the magnet on the door.
What is a NAND gate?
There are handy reed switch sets
which come in plastic holders with
screw holes, intended for alarm systems (eg, Jaycar LA5027). There are
others which are intended for completely concealed mounting – the reed
is recessed into the jamb and the magnet mounts inside the door. (eg Jaycar
LA5075).
Using it
That is simplicity itself!
When you go into the dunny, you
press the momentary action (ie, normally open) “Start” switch (S1). This
starts both LEDs flashing (the internal
LED to assure you that you don’t have
a flat battery).
It stays that way until you open the
door to leave. As the magnet moves
away from the reed switch (S2) it
opens, turning off the circuit, ready
for the next occupant.
The “automatic” reed switch turnoff
is included because of the high likelihood that someone will forget to manually turn it off, resulting in a queue
at the door of an unoccupied dunny!
We could have made it fully automatic (ie, LEDs start flashing as soon
as you entered) but deemed the extra
complication not worthwhile. But for
experimenters, it wouldn’t be hard
SC
to do.
Two types of reed switch, both suitable for this
application. The type at left (Jaycar LA5072) is
designed for surface mounting (hence the mounting
holes) while the type above (Jaycar LA5075) is fully
concealed, mounting in holes drilled in a wooden door
(or window) frame. There are two halves – the reed switch
itself (on the right in both cases) and the actuating magnet. The
switch is normally open, closing when the magnet is brought into close proximity.
siliconchip.com.au
Inside the 4093B chip there are four
identical gates, each one operating
completely independently of the others
(but with a single power supply). That’s
why it’s called a “quad”.
First, we’ll look at an AND gate. Think
of a gate as you would a gate in a fence.
It can be either open or closed. With two
gates, BOTH have to be in the same state,
open or closed, to have any effect. With
an AND gate, if both inputs are high, the
output will be high. If either is low, the
output will be low. That’s why it’s called
an AND gate.
But the 4093 has extra circuitry in
each gate which “inverts” the output.
So instead of both inputs going “high”
resulting in a “high” at the output, both
inputs going high result in a “low” at
the output (and vice versa). This makes
it a NAND gate, an abbreviation for NOT
AND. The little circle at the gate output
tells you that it is a NAND gate (an AND
gate won’t have the circle).
Australia’s electronics magazine
Before we leave the AND/NAND gate,
you’ll often see another type of simple
gate, the OR/NOR. With this gate, as its
name implies, either input – one OR the
other – can be high to bring the output
high.
But if it’s a NOR gate, as distinct from
an OR gate, the output will be inverted
(just like the difference between NAND
and AND gates).
Finally, where does the “Schmitt Trigger” part come from?
In most gates, the transition between
the high and low states is fairly wide – it
needs to be below a certain voltage to
be low (close to 0V) and above a certain
voltage to be high (much closer to the
supply voltage). Voltages between the
low and high states are not defined.
However, this is often undesirable,
so circuitry is included inside the gate
which makes the transition from low to
high or high to low much more defined
due to hysteresis. This is called a Schmitt
Trigger.
January 2021 81
The
AVR128DA48
and the
Curiosity Nano
evaluation board
By
Tim Blythman
The AVR DA Curiosity Nano Evaluation Kit demonstrates Microchip’s new
range of AVR128DA microcontrollers. These have several very significant
advantages over commonly used AVRs, such as much more flash memory
and RAM, a higher operating speed, 12-bit ADC channels and a 10-bit DAC.
Despite all this, they actually cost less than the ATmega328P!
W
hen we saw that the new AVR DA family AVR
chips were available, we had to try them out.
They cost around $2.50 even in single quantities,
slightly less than an ATmega328P.
But they have four times the flash memory, eight times
the RAM and greatly enhanced peripherals. If you’re designing a new circuit around an AVR, it would be silly not
to use one of these.
While some micros have cryptic part numbers, the AVR128DA series is quite straightforward. The “AVR” means
that it is an AVR processor (originally from Atmel, now
part of Microchip). The “128” means that it has 128kB of
program (flash) memory and the “DA” refers to this particular AVR family. There are also AVR32DA and AVR64DA
parts with 32kB and 64kB of flash memory, respectively.
The two digits following the “DA” are simply the number
of pins that the part has. The parts in this series are AVR82
Silicon Chip
128DA28, AVR128DA32, AVR128DA48 and AVR128DA64.
These are available in various packages and footprints,
which are described by further suffixes.
When we looked at the ATtiny816 in January 2019
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/11372), we thought it looked
like a fair competitor to the ATmega328 (as found in the
Arduino Uno board). In fact, with more ADC (analog-todigital converter) channels, it was an tinyAVR series chip
that could put its bigger (megaAVR) sibling to shame. The
AVR DA family is even more impressive – see Table 1.
Like the ATtiny816, the AVR128DA series has Event
System and Configurable Custom Logic (CCL) hardware.
These two peripherals handle in hardware what would
have previously been done with software, freeing up processor time. The comparators and 10-bit DAC allow arbitrary trigger voltage thresholds to be set for external signals.
One example of the benefits of the Event System is that,
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
instead of a timer triggering an interATmega328
ATtiny816
AVR128DA28 AVR128DA48
rupt which then starts the ADC sam#
pins
28
20
28
48
pling, it’s possible to configure the
SRAM
2k
512b
16k
16k
timer event to trigger the ADC directly, reducing latency and procesFlash
32k
8k
128k
128k
sor overhead.
EEPROM
1k
128b
512b
512b
Clearly, these chips are even more
Max.
clock
20MHz
20MHz
24MHz
24MHz
potent than their predecessors. With
# ADC
6 x 10-bit
12 x 10-bit
10 x 12-bit
18 x 12-bit
substantial RAM and flash memory,
they put the ATmega328 from the Ar# GPIOs
21
18
23
41
duino Uno to shame.
# timers
3
4
6
8
While the amount of EEPROM is
#
DACs
0
1
x
8-bit
1
x
10-bit
1
x
10-bit
reduced, like many AVR parts, they
are also capable of writing directly to
# USARTs
1
1
3
5
their flash memory. Thus the reduced
# HW SPI
1
1
2
2
EEPROM is more than offset by the
# HW TWI
1
1
1
2
substantial increase in flash memory
Programming
ISP
UPDI
UPDI
UPDI
that is available for storing data.
Also of note are the numerous 12Table 1 – comparison of four AVR micros.
bit ADC channels and the UPDI programming interface. Since the UPDI
interface only uses one pin, no GPIO ports are comproOther settings can be changed by copying simple text
mised by being connected to the programming interface.
files with a specific format and content.
You can download a complete datasheet for these deThe AVR128DA48 itself (U200) has nearly the bare minivices from http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/ mum of surrounding components. A 2.2µF capacitor proDeviceDoc/40002183A.pdf
vides bulk bypassing. Three 100nF capacitors locally bypass
the supply (two on digital VDD and one on analog VDD).
Available packages
The analog supply is fed via an inductor for extra filtering.
While the device fitted to the AVR128DA Curiosity Nano
A 32kHz crystal and its accompanying capacitors are
board is the 48-pin TQFP (thin quad flat pack) version, there connected to supply a reference frequency for the RTC (reis also a 28-pin version available in a DIP package. We’ll al-time clock) peripheral. The internal oscillator can clock
detail both below in our comparison with other AVR parts. the processor at 24MHz and a PLL allows peripherals to
We’ll describe how to build a circuit around a bare AVR- run at 48MHz, across the full supply range down to 1.8V.
128DA28 chip later; the DIP version is an obvious candidate for breadboarding.
The AVR128DA48 Curiosity Nano Evaluation Kit comprises the AVR128DA48 noted earlier, surrounded by a
small number of extra components – see its complete circuit,
shown in Fig.1. The PCB also includes an ATSAMD21E18A
32-bit ARM processor (U100), accompanied by its own entourage of components at one end of the PCB (U103-U107).
The ATSAMD21E18A provides the PKOB Nano (PICkit
On Board) programmer function, and is connected to a micro-USB socket to interface to the host computer.
Interestingly, there is a fairly clear line on the Curiosity Nano’s PCB that separates the programmer and its target. There are even jumper pads on the PCB underside so
that the connection between them can be broken if needed
(J101, J201, J203, J205 & J206).
We won’t delve into the details of the programmer; suffice to say that it includes an adjustable voltage regulator
and five tiny level converter ICs, which bring three debug
signals and a UART (TX/RX) pair back to the programmer
for communication.
As well as the PKOB function, it also provides a virtual
COM port (to communicate with the UART on the AVR128DA) and emulates a USB flash drive too – see Fig.2.
The USB drive is only ‘virtual’ and doesn’t work like
a portable flash drive. The files that are present can be
opened to show status information, but can’t be edited.
One of the more interesting features is that you can flash
A block diagram of the AVR128DA family from the datathe AVR128DA48 on the Nano by copying a HEX file to
sheet. Note how the Event System Bus runs in parallel
with the main Data Bus, connecting most peripherals.
the virtual drive.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
January 2021 83
SC
AVR128DA48 CURIOSITY NANO EVALUATION MODULE
Fig.1: like the PCB itself, the circuit for the Curiosity Nano AVR128DA is clearly divided
between the programmer and power supply at left, and the target device at right. Solder
jumpers J101, J201, J203, J205 and J206 can be used to disconnect the two halves.
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Australia’s electronics magazine
January 2021 85
parts if you already have a PICkit4.
Programming the Curiosity Nano
Fig.2: five files appear on the virtual USB drive that the
Curiosity Nano AVR128DA presents; they can be dragged
and dropped to change settings. It’s even possible to upload
a HEX file to the AVR128DA48 by copying it to the virtual
drive. Talk about easy to program!
A user pushbutton and LED are also connected via 1kΩ
resistors. These connect to GPIO pins PC7 and PC6, respectively. It’s not much, but allows some basic code to be
tested without needing to connect any external hardware.
In any case, the narrow PCB shape is perfect for fitting to
a breadboard. The edge of the PCB is ringed by a series of
pads which allow a row of pin headers to be friction fitted,
although we found that they were a very tight fit.
The pads are also duplicated as castellated half-holes,
making it possible to solder the headers in place, or even
to solder the board to a matching set of pads on another
board (ie, treating the whole Curiosity Nano as an SMD).
The pads at the end of the board closest to the USB socket
duplicate those pins used by the programmer.
AVR128DA28 in DIP
To do this, you will need the free Microchip MPLAB X
software; see our article on installing and using that software starting on page 48 of this issue.
The basic steps are to write the code, compile it and then
program to the device. We suggest starting with our sample
project (available for download from the SILICON CHIP website) if you haven’t worked with MPLAB X before. Open
that project, expand the “Source Files” to see “main.c” and
double-click to open it.
We’ll quickly walk through this example.
The first #define for F_CPU lets the code know how fast
the instruction clock is. By default, these parts start up
with a 4MHz primary clock frequency, which can be later
changed in software.
There is no need to change this for our simple examples.
The blink() function is called by main(), and it sets pins
PA7 and PC6 as outputs (setting the DIRSET register). Then,
it goes into an infinite loop, cycling between setting these
pins high (OUTSET) and low (OUTCLR), separated by onesecond delays.
With the project open, click “Clean and Build” (hammer and brush icon). You should get a “BUILD SUCCESSFUL” message.
AVR devices require the fuse bits to be read before programming. These are the same as configuration bits on PIC
devices, and the MPLAB X software calls them configuration bits for consistency.
This can be done by clicking the Window-> Target Memory Views -> Configuration Bits menu item. The top-most
icon with the green arrow facing up is “Read Configuration Bits”. Click this and allow the process to complete
(see Fig.5).
You may need to select the programming tool if you are
using something different, but if this read occurs successfully, then Programmer communication is working fine.
We also tried working with an AVR128DA28 on a breadboard. Our minimal setup is shown in Fig.3, and the corresponding circuit in Fig.4.
The two supply pins, 20 (VDD) and 14
(AVDD) are bypassed to nearby GND pins
(21 and 15) by 100nF capacitors. A 10kΩ
l
resistor pulls up the RST pin (18) to VDD.
This is about the minimum needed for normal operation.
For programming, we connected pins 2,
3 and 4 (VDD, GND & UPDI) of a PICkit4 to
pins 20, 21 and 19 of the AVR128DA28 via
a six-pin SIL header. Because the PICkit4
cannot supply power to the target in UPDI
mode (as it can with some PICs in ICSP
mode), external power must be supplied to
the VDD and GND rails.
We also fitted a LED and 1.1kΩ resistor
between pin 1 (PA7) and GND, to provide
the hardware equivalent of a “hello world”
program (a blinkenlight!).
Since the PC6 and PC7 pins (as used for
the button and LED on the Curiosity Nano)
are not present on the 28-pin variant, we did
Fig.3: this minimal breadboard circuit for the AVR128DA28 needs only
not do much more than verify that we could a handful of passive parts as, by default, the device is clocked from an
flash the LED successfully. Still, this is an even internal oscillator. The LED and resistor are optional but are useful to
cheaper way to experiment with these new AVR test that it is working as expected.
86
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Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.6: these debugging buttons are only visible after a debugging session has started. Most of these buttons also have
keyboard shortcuts assigned to them, which is handy for
quickly stepping through code while debugging it.
Fig.5: the small button at upper left in the Configuration Bits
window reads the device’s configuration bits (or fuses in AVR
parlance). Then the fuse settings can be changed and exported
by using the Generate Source Code button at the bottom.
We would advise not changing anything here, even if
you are familiar with PIC configuration bits. Unlike PIC
programming, some AVR fuse bits (particularly some clock
settings) can prevent the device from being programmed.
You should now be able to press the “Run” button to
program the Curiosity Nano. When this completes, you
should see the LED on the Nano flashing at around 0.5Hz.
Debugging
One of the great features of MPLAB X is the ability to debug a project as it runs. If you’ve worked with BASIC programs or the Arduino IDE, you’re probably familiar with
the use of PRINT statements to display the internal program
state and determine why it isn’t doing what it should. This
can be very helpful and can often give enough information
to get to the bottom of a problem.
But it can also interfere with program operation, and you
cannot pause the running program to allow it to be examined in depth. The debugging feature of MPLAB X operates quite seamlessly and can halt the running program to
inspect its internal state. You can even set ‘breakpoints’ to
allow the program to pause operation at a certain point in
its operation automatically.
You might hear it referred to as ICD (in-circuit debugging) to emphasise the fact that you can debug the actual
circuit operation, with all hardware attached and working.
Another handy resource to use during debugging is the
disassembly listing. It can be found under the Window ->
Debugging -> Output -> Disassembly Listing File menu.
The “Load symbols” option needs to be set to allow this.
It can be found under the Properties window, but our example project already has this set. MPLAB X will show
you where to set this if it is not.
The disassembly listing contains both the source code
and also the specific machine instructions and their locations in program memory. It can be a handy tool to use on
its own, even without the debugger.
A debugging session is started by clicking the “Debug
Project” button, just below the main menu bar. Then, the
buttons in the Debugging bar (Fig.6) become available.
These buttons should give you a good idea of how handy
the MPLAB X debugger can be.
From left to right, the first button is Stop, which ends
the current debugging session. This is followed by Pause,
Reset and Continue. The remaining buttons provide different Step options, allowing the program to run until, for
example, the next statement (Step Over) or until the current function ends (Step Out).
Hence, the importance of the disassembly listing; the debugger needs to know what point in program flash memory corresponds to what line of code to be able to highlight
where it stops.
A good example of stepping would be to see what course
a program takes on an if statement or switch statement.
After starting a debugging session, click Pause and you
should see the editor window highlight a line of the source
code in green (it’ll probably be a line from “delay.h”, as
that is where the program spends most of its time). In the
bottom right window, there should be a “Variables” tab.
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January 2021 87
Click this and then click on “<Enter new watch>”.
A watch is a variable which the debugger can read and
display. It isn’t updated in real-time, but can be inspected
any time that the program is paused and is highlighted in
red if it has changed. While variables only exist as bytes
in RAM, the debugger knows what type it is (eg, int, char
or pointer) and can display other appropriate information.
For example, the value of a pointer’s target can be resolved and displayed, or a character array can be displayed
as a text string.
One interesting value to display is “PC”, the program
counter, which is effectively one of the program’s internal
variables. You can pause the program and check that the value of PC matches the line of code as shown in the assembly
listing. Of course, our example program is elementary. But
also, modern compilers are very good at optimising code,
which sometimes means that even the debugger can have
trouble mapping the source code to the program memory.
One more useful tool that the debugger provides is called
a breakpoint. This is a point in the source code which will
automatically pause the program when it is reached. Cleverly setting breakpoints can help pin down where a problem might be occurring.
For example, you could set a breakpoint just before a
switch statement, then step through the switch statement
to check the logic and values of critical variables to ensure
that the correct branch is taken.
When we reviewed the PICkit 4 in September 2018
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/11237), we also gave a brief
overview of in-circuit debugging (ICD). We noted, amongst
other things, that the PICkit 4 was much more responsive
than the PICKit 3 during debugging. We found that the
PKOB debugger on the Curiosity Nano was similarly fast.
Example code
Microchip has provided some sample code for these processors at siliconchip.com.au/link/ab4m
These are actually Microchip Studio (previously known
as Atmel Studio) projects, but they contain a “main.c” file
which can be added to a blank MPLAB X project. We tested this with the “AVR-DA_LED_dimming_PWM” example,
and it worked with no changes to the code.
Examples like these are great resources for getting started with microcontroller peripherals. Typically, you would
have little more than a list of registers from a data sheet.
The examples provide working code that can be used directly. This even helps with subtle things like checking
the correct syntax for manipulating the correct registers.
Conclusion
The AVR DA family of microcontrollers is an impressive update to the AVR roadmap, while the AVR128DA48
Curiosity Nano Development Board provides a simple and
economical way to try out the new features. You can get
these parts from:
Digi-Key: https://www.digikey.com.au
Mouser: https://au.mouser.com
Microchip Direct: https://www.microchipdirect.com
Microchip’s part number for the Curiosity board is
DM164151, and the current price is around AU $25, excluding delivery costs.
SC
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62
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109
Tin multiple stranded hookup wires or removing multi-pin connectors from boards quickly and easily. Takes up to 1350g of solder.
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T 2865A Side Cutter
T 2870A Long Nose Plier
T 2860A Bull Nose Plier
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Chemtools® No Clean Flux Pen
A 10 piece set of PCB drill bits in a handy plastic
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10 Pack of PCB Drills
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Our most popular models! Fully adjustable with LCD meters
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Extended resolution to 4 digits! Offers
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Perfect for lighting inside cabinets, under shelves, wardrobes etc.
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Accessories: X 3273 Straight joiner $3.50 • X 3274 90° joiner $3.50
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Perfect for those in R&D or servicing. • 2 channels with real-time 1GSa/s sampling.
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to peak plus RMS, frequency, duty cycle etc. • Realtime measurement PC software.
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Create
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100MHz 2 Ch. Digital Storage Oscilloscope
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19999 Count True RMS
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Provides an instant
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previous 20 measurements. Requires
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Linear Lab Power Supplies
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Cable Free
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Stylish motion
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145Wx96Lx75Dmm.
$40 for
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tn
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X 0199A
X 3222A
1.3m length of
addressable RGB 5050
LED strip - this means
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Pi. 60 LEDs per m.
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Project Parts ‘a’ Plenty
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sic
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144
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*Pi not included.
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Red Armor
Pi Case
P 1925
Use your HDMI
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Pi 4.
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The latest Pi 4 is now capable of running two
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computing has arrived!
Turns your Pi into a high resolution network music
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Audio CD and many more file types. On-board DAC for
very high quality audio output.
The latest upgraded Argon ONE case featuring SATA
hard drive support. Build the ulitimate mini computer
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$
The Latest Raspberry Pi® 4
H 8932
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Argon® ONE M2 Case
50
19
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Z 6426
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Z 6244
ESP32 Wi-Fi & Bluetooth Dev Board
LoRa Arduino Shield
CAN-BUS Arduino Shield
‘Due’ Development Board
A development board integrating 802.11b/g/n WiFi, Bluetooth 4.2 and BLE. Fully Arduino compatible and perfect
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board in the same compact, breadboard friendly package.
Allows long range communication with
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Allows you to interface Arduino’s with
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The first Arduino board based on a 32 bit ARM core microcontroller for added power. Ideal for projects that need higher
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UARTs. 3.3V shield/sensor compatible.
IP67 Dust & Water
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$8
$11.95
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Pins
2 Pin
Great for automotive
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Use a standard automotive crimper,
pliers/solder terminate. 14A rated.
3 Pin
P 7893
4 Pin
P 7894
6 Pin
P 7896
.95
Quartz DIY
Clock Kit
A much requested item
by our builders and
makers, this handy clock
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styles of hands to suit
your DIY clock design.
Requires 1xAA battery.
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Jumbo RGB
LED Matrix
16
$
.95
64 bright
RGB LEDs are
contained in
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housing.
Z 0977
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$
Tinker
Parts Pack
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K 9643
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150pcs total.
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M2.5 Screw/Stand Off Set
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B 0092
$
NEW!
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
New microcontrollers from Microchip help with analog system design
Sensor-based Internet of Things
(IoT) applications rely on a combination of analog functionality and digital control capability to meet a list of
requirements including cost, size, performance and power usage.
Addressing this through a focus on
increased microcontroller (MCU) integration, Microchip Technology announced the PIC18-Q41 and AVR DB
MCU families (as seen on page 82 of
this issue). These are the first to com-
bine advanced analog peripherals and
multi-voltage operation with interperipheral connections for increased
system integration and reduced signal
acquisition times.
To address the need for signal conditioning in space-constrained sensing
and measuring applications (such as
IoT end nodes and industrial, medical devices, wearables, automotive and
lighting systems), the PIC18-Q41 MCU
has a configurable operational ampli-
Microchip Technology Inc.
Unit 32, 41 Rawson Street
Epping 2121 NSW
Tel: (02) 9868 6733
www.microchip.com
New NP400 low-cost
pressure sensors from
Ocean Controls
Digi-Key releases 1.5 million SnapEDA CAD models
Digi-Key Electronics announced
its collaboration with SnapEDA, providing over 1.5 million high-quality
symbols, footprints, and 3D models
for Digi-Key parts. These can now be
downloaded from digikey.com
With this collaboration, engineers
can access SnapEDA’s high-quality
CAD models directly on Digi-Key’s
website, further streamlining their
design flow.
To start downloading EDA and CAD
parts from Digi-Key, go to a part detail
page, look for the row labelled "EDA /
CAD Models" and click on Download
from SnapEDA. Supported formats include Altium, Eagle, KiCad, OrCad,
Allegro, PADS, and DXDesigner.
Novus NP400 two-wire pressure
sensors break the $100 barrier. These
compact sensors are ideal for air and
water applications. They feature a
wide power supply range of 11-33V
DC, ±0.5% accuracy, an overpressure
range (twice the maximum range) and
rupture pressure (triple the pressure
range upper value).
Process connections: external
thread ¼ NPT, ¼ G, ½ NPT or ½ BSP.
►
siliconchip.com.au
fier, analog-to-digital (ADC) & digitalto-analog converters (DAC).
It is particularly well-suited for IoT
and large-scale artificial intelligence
(AI), including predictive maintenance edge nodes in a smart factory.
Offered in compact 14- and 20-pin
packages, the PIC18-Q41 MCU also
makes a good companion to Microchip’s 32-bit MCUs and other controllers that require analog integration.
Mixed-signal IoT systems often include multiple power domains, and
the AVR DB MCU simplifies these
designs while reducing cost by integrating true bi-directional level shifters. This feature lowers cost in a wide
range of applications such as automotive, HVAC and liquid measurement.
The addition of three independent
and highly configurable op amps, a
12-bit differential ADC, 10-bit DAC,
three zero cross detectors and core independent peripherals (CIPs) makes
the AVR DB MCU ideal for virtually any application involving analog
signal conditioning and processing
functions.
SnapEDA adds millions of parts to its
library each year, aided by its computer
vision technology such as InstaBuild,
and other automation tools.
Supported suppliers on SnapEDA
include Recom, CUI, Samtec, TE Connectivity, I-PEX, GCT, CUI Devices, Bel
Fuse, Murata, Texas Instruments, ECS,
Triad Magnetics, Quectel, Infineon and
many more.
SnapEDA is on a mission to help
engineers innovate faster by removing
barriers. They help over one million
engineers find CAD models for their
electronics designs each year. Their
community of professional engineers
are making everything from medical
devices to electric airplanes.
Ocean Controls
Digi-Key Electronics
44 Frankstown Gardens Drive
Carrum Downs 3201 VIC
Phone: (03) 9708 2390
Website: oceancontrols.com.au
Thief River Falls
Minnesota, USA
Phone: 1800 285 719
Website: www.digikey.com
Australia’s electronics magazine
January 2021 93
Vintage Radio
Philips
Philips 1963
1963 “Musicmaker”
“Musicmaker” MM1
MM1
mantel
mantel radio
radio
By Associate Professor Graham Parslow
Philips valve radios from the 1960s had excellent sound, came in a
variety of interesting colours and were quite affordable at the time. This
article covers three different models: the model 224, MM1 and MM1/01,
as they look similar. Their performance is indistinguishable because they
all use the same circuit and components.
The design of valve-based superhets was fully mature by the 1960s. By
then, they were pretty much all using
tried and tested components and circuitry. The competing Kriesler range
of valve mantels were comparable and
sold in greater numbers, as judged by
the number of remaining units held
by collectors.
The Philips radios had a more conservative style, and that may have
been advantageous for a kitchen radio where function was the prime
consideration. Philips also made other valve radios in the 1960s, notably
the mantel model 172 using inductive
(permeability) tuning, as well as valve
radiograms.
But the biggest competitors to these
radios were the then-new transistor
types. Philips made a good range of
transistor sets, both for battery and
mains operation, at prices comparable to the valve radios.
Their transistor models included the
Philadelphia model MM2, the Metropolitan model MT7 and the Leisuremate model RB290, all are pictured at
the end of the article.
The downside to these transistor
radios was an audio output of only
about 300mW before distortion became severe.
Australian Philips valve and transistor radios were manufactured at
Hendon in South Australia. Local
production ceased in the early 1970s
when tariff protection was lifted and
imported radios took the market.
Those imported radios usually cost
less than just the local cost of the
components!
94
Silicon Chip
Three similar models
The model 224 was introduced in
1961 at £27, and was marketed with
the title “Futura Five”. It came in one
of six colours: ember red, flamingo,
charcoal, turquoise, grey and primrose.
The escutcheon at the sides of the
dial had a two-tone colour scheme,
with one section usually being metallic chrome or gold. The other section
was usually black, but sometimes colour-matched to the case.
The knobs were cream with eight
raised flutes. The volume and tone
knobs at the left drove concentric pots,
with a DPDT on/off switch linked to
the tone control.
The tuning knob used the same
two segments to duplicate the appearance of the left-hand knob, but it
was mounted onto a single shaft with
stepped diameters to lock the sections
together.
The easiest way to identify the model is to look at the paper label pasted
under the case. However, these labels
are easily damaged and sometimes
missing. An example of the label from
an MM1 radio is shown at the end of
the article.
The model MM1, marketed as the
The Philips model MM1 (1963)
is nearly identical to the Futura
Five 224, except it has provision for
an external pick-up. Sadly, this particular
example has a crack in the top of its case.
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
easily when subjected to trauma. The
mauve-coloured case shown here was
particularly badly affected by heat.
The last of the line was the model
MM1/01, which was an entirely cosmetic change. The knobs were made
more conical in shape, with more
flutes, and the escutcheons were black
in all sections.
Circuit details
Why add the pick-up facility to
this mature product line? Possibly, it
was to compete with the better-selling
Kriesler radios that had such an input.
Another reason may have been to promote the low-end phono turntables
made by Philips that sold for around £5
at the time (see the accompanying advertisment from National Radio Supplies Sydney, originally in RTV&H,
December 1963 on p114).
These sets draw around 30-32W in
use. Unfortunately, the thermo-mouldable plastic case is easily damaged by
heat, including the internal heat generated by the valves. The cases also crack
Referring now to the original circuit
diagram, reproduced overleaf, L1 is
an RF choke wound around a 6.8kW
resistor, and is described as a loading coil. Loading coils are added to
achieve more efficient coupling of RF
to a tuned circuit from a short external aerial. The external aerial coupling
coil, L2, is three turns around the 6.5inch (165mm) long ferrite rod, spaced
20mm away from L3.
The circuitry around mixer/oscillator valve V1 is conventional, with L3C1 for tuning and C4-L4 to set the local oscillator frequency. Oscillation is
sustained by feedback from L5. In all
these Philips radios, the circuit data
specifies a 6AN7 for V1, but the later
radios had 6AN7As installed.
The nine-pin 6AN7 mixer valve was
released in 1948 and became widely used throughout the 1950s. The
joint release of the 6AN7 and 6M5 by
Philips is described in Radio and Hobbies magazine, January 1950, page 67
(a recommended read).
The Philips MM1/01 (1965) is the
same as the MM1 with changes only to
its external appearance, such as the conical
knobs, dial, escutcheon, grille and case colour.
This extract of the RTV&H advert
from National Radio Supplies Sydney,
shows contemporary turntables for
sale.
The Philips Futura Five 224 (1961) is a
5-valve superhet mantel radio enclosed in a plastic case.
“Musicmaker”, was introduced in
1965 and added a pick-up input to the
circuit. The way this connected can
be seen from the pseudo-3D chassis
layout on the MM1 label. The almost
identical model 224 label had a simpler 2D chassis diagram because it did
not have a pick-up input.
This offers another way of recognising the earlier model 224, because the
224 case has only one lower slot at the
rear, positioned to view the chassis serial number. The MM1 radios have an
additional narrow slot for pick-up access, as seen at the bottom of the mauve
case on page 97.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
January 2021 95
The 6AN7 draws 0.23A of filament
current at 6.3V. The slightly more efficient, but otherwise identical, 6AN7A
valve was released in 1961. It had better cathode emission and required
0.3A for the filament.
In a radio with parallel filaments
supplied with 6.3V, there is no problem with interchanging the two valve
types. However, farm radios powered
by 32V DC often connected the filaments of five valves in series, with
equalising resistors to regulate the
6AN7 filaments to 0.23A.
If a 6AN7A is used as a replacement
in these 32V radios, the equalising resistors should be altered to maintain
correct filament voltage and current.
The IF signal created by the mixer
enters the first IF transformer from the
plate of the 6AN7. IF amplification is
carried out by a 6BH5 pentode.
The 9-pin 6BH5 was released in
1952. This Philips-made valve was
only built for the Australian market,
and is uncommon in non-Philips radios.
The amplified IF signal is detected
by the diode connected to pin 6 of the
9-pin 6BD7. The 6BD7 triode-double
diode is a commonly encountered
valve dating from 1950.
The IF transformers are the thin
rectangular types that Philips introduced in the early 1950s. With age,
some of these transformers have gone
open-circuit. As the internals are set
in resin, sadly they cannot be repaired.
Fortunately, none of the IF transformers in the sets described in this article
had failed.
The bottom end of the second IF
transformer secondary (L9) is grounded for the 455kHz IF signal by mica
capacitor C15 (220pF). C15 has no effect on audio frequencies, so demodulated audio passes across R7 (47kW),
superimposed on the negative DC output from the diode. The AGC circuit
passes a negative bias to the preceding
6AN7 and 6BH5 grids via R6 (3.3MW).
Delayed AGC is achieved by 47W
resistor R14 between the centre tap
96
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
This photo of
an MM1 was
taken before
restoration, as
can be seen by
the dust and
other debris on
the underside of
the chassis. The
external links
to a pick-up can
be seen at the
top of the photo
with shielded
cable to connect
to the audio
amplification
section.
of the power transformer and ground,
with the low-signal grid bias for the
6AN7 and 6BH5 being derived from
the transformer end of R14. This means
that a higher AGC voltage is required
before the gains of those valves are
reduced.
To listen to the radio, the A-B jumper
link in the pickup connector needs to
be in place. The demodulated audio
signal is then fed to the 500kW volume
control (R8). The link has a pull-string
accessible through its cabinet slot.
A ceramic or crystal phono cartridge
can instead be connected between B
and C on the linking socket. The audio signal from the cartridge is then
amplified by the 6BD7 triode and conventionally passed to the 6M5 grid via
10nF coupling capacitor C18.
Many radios have top-cut tone controls acting at a point of high voltage
that compromises the reliability of
the components. This circuit sensibly
places R13 (a 250kW pot) and C19 in
a position that is nominally at 0V DC.
The 6M5 output pentode has 6.5V
of grid bias, generated by R17 (220W).
Unusually, there is no cathode bypass
electrolytic across R17. A bypass capacitor here would provide a low-impedance path for audio, thereby maximising the amplified output from the
pentode.
This gave me a chance to see how
critical, or otherwise, that conventional bypass electrolytic is. I found
that adding a 22µF capacitor across
R17 made no audible difference, so
It’s a bit hard
to see from this
angle, but the
connection for
the pick-up is
at the bottom
rear of the
chassis (circled
in red). Here it
has been fitted
with a wire-link
between points
“A” and “B” for
normal radio
operation.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
January 2021 97
The Philips MM1 label originally had a red background, but it has been changed here to white for clarity.
Philips did not make an unreasonable omission.
There is no convenient place to
mount the speaker transformer on
the top of the chassis, so it is mounted below. The resulting ‘spare space’
above the chassis is occupied by the
aluminium cans for filter electrolytics
C16 and C17. There is no filter choke
in the HT supply.
The 4 x 5.5-inch (100 x 140mm) elliptical Rola speaker has the 1960s
rounded edge magnet profile. This
replaced the plain cylindrical profile that Rola used for magnets in the
1950s.
The baked enamel frames of these
speakers resist rusting, but the magnets often show rust. The Rola speakers mounted in these radios sound
surprisingly good for their modest
dimensions.
Faults and troubleshooting
Although these radios are ‘modern’,
they are still over 50 years old. Most
of the original Ducon paper capaci-
tors remain serviceable. Nevertheless,
in three of these radios, I found C18
was leaky and compromised the 6M5
grid bias.
Editor’s note: some restorers prefer
to replace paper capacitors regardless,
as they will fail eventually.
I selected a model 224 to listen to
as a shed radio after replacing only
C18. For some days, it behaved well,
but then failed completely. Rocking
the valves in their sockets revealed
the problem.
The fix at this time was cleaning
the pins of the 6AN7 and 6BH5. After a few more days, it developed a
crackle. Suspicion immediately fell
on the two mica capacitors, C7 and
C15. Against optimistic expectations,
their replacement did nothing to help
alleviate the crackle.
The next step was to begin replacing the paper capacitors, starting with
C20 across the output transformer.
The crackle stopped after this single
replacement, so the radio went back
into service.
The back of another MM1 radio which is badly deformed from the heat of
the valves during operation (likely with high ambient
temperature and poor ventilation).
98
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
However, the crackle soon started
again, so it was back to the bench for
a systematic replacement of all paper
capacitors.
After every capacitor was replaced,
the radio still produced abundant
crackle. Worse still, only strong stations now tuned in weakly and turning up the volume drove the set into
audio oscillation at around 2kHz.
All resistors checked as true to value, except R2 and R4, which had gone
significantly high in value. Replacing
them did not change anything.
If the problem cannot be found
below the chassis, then it might be
above. As soon as I looked at the tuning capacitor, I saw that trimmer C2
had broken away minutely from the
solder joint to Earth. Repairing that
changed nothing, so it was back to
looking below.
It then became clear how I had compromised the set by a simple mistake.
The original, large capacitor C6 was
soldered into a cramped space and the
more compact polyester replacement
allowed me to connect it to a more
convenient Earth point.
The problem was that the free tag
I used was above an Earthing solder
point on the chassis, but the tag was
not connected to it, so C6 was floating.
A simple Earth link brought the radio back to full function, complete
with crackle.
Back on the top of the chassis, removing the mixer valve did not affect
the crackle, so I determined that it was
being introduced at a later stage.
Removing the 6BH5 IF amplifier
valve produced blissful silence. I had
not previously run into a crackling
valve, but a replacement 6BH5 was
indeed the answer. Since replacing
the 6BH5, the radio has been perfectly reliable.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
These three Philips transistor
radios were contemporaries of the
MM1 radios in the 1960s. From top-tobottom: Metropolitan MT7 mantel; Philadelphia
MM2 mantel; and Leisuremate RB290 portable.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
January 2021 99
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Using Cheap Asian Electronic Modules
By Jim Rowe
Mini Digital
AC Panel Meters
In this follow-up article on low-cost digital panel meters, we’re looking at meters
designed to measure AC voltages and currents. Some of them can even calculate
and display power, energy consumption and frequency. As usual, we’ll give you
an idea of how they work, how they perform and how easy they are to use.
A
s promised last month, this second article describes some small
meters designed to measure AC voltages and currents. The AC models are
even more interesting than those we
described last time. For a start, they
vary more significantly in both size
and price.
Like the DC meters we looked at in
the first article, these AC meters are all
designed to be powered from the same
source used for voltage measurements.
So no separate power source is needed.
It’s important to make sure all connections are properly insulated when
taking measurements.
As explained last month, DC meters measure currents by measuring
the voltage drop across a very low resistance current shunt. In contrast, AC
meters typically measure currents by
using a special kind of transformer: a
current transformer or ‘CT’. This steps
down the current to a much lower level, as well as providing galvanic isolation for improved safety.
compared with DC, as Nikola Tesla
and George Westinghouse stressed
over 120 years ago, is that with AC
you can use transformers to step the
voltage up or down to whatever level
best suits your purposes.
This means that AC power can
be stepped up to hundreds of thousands of volts to reduce losses when
conveyed over long distances, then
stepped down to much lower voltages like 230V or 115V, for somewhat
more safe use in houses, factories and
offices.
Of course, when a transformer steps
up the voltage, it also steps down the
current, and vice versa. This is due
Fig.1: how the current
transformer (CT) operates.
The CT secondary should
be terminated with a low
impedance, otherwise it will
generate a very high voltage
if any significant AC current
is flowing in the primary.
Make sure to connect the
secondary leads of the CT to
the panel meter before any
current is allowed to flow
through the primary.
Current transformer basics
One of the big advantages of AC
102
Silicon Chip
to the conservation of energy (ie, the
product of voltage and current at the
output must be similar to that at the
input). So if the voltage is stepped up
by a factor N, the current is stepped
down by the same factor, and if the
voltage is stepped down by N, the current is stepped up by the same factor.
This is much harder to do with DC;
generally, this means converting the
DC voltage to AC, stepping it up or
down, then rectifying and filtering it
to turn it back into DC. That is not easy
to do efficiently!
The current transformer works on
the same principle, as shown in Fig.1.
It consists of a toroidal magnetic core,
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
So for example, if the CT has a secondary winding of 1000 turns and the
current flowing in the primary wire
is 50A, the secondary current will be
50mA (50A ÷ 1000).
The advantages of using a CT includes a stable transformation ratio,
which helps ensure measurement accuracy, as well as a high degree of
electrical isolation. The main disadvantage that the ‘primary’ wire must
be passed through the centre of the
transformer core.
One way around this is to have the
core in two halves. But this adds significantly to the cost, as well as reducing
its conversion efficiency a little (due
to the inevitable air gaps).
The AD16-22FVA is the smallest AC panel meter out of the three but has the
highest measurement range of 60-500V. The current transformer (CT) is shown
adjacent and is rated at 0-100A.
The AD16-22FVA meter shown at
actual size.
usually made from either silicon steel
or ferrite, through which passes the
wire carrying the current to be measured. The wire effectively forms the
transformer’s single-turn primary
‘winding’.
Many turns of much lighter wire
are wound around the toroidal core
to form the transformer’s secondary
winding. So the turns ratio is 1:N,
where N is the number of secondary
turns.
When a relatively heavy alternating
current is flowing through the wire
forming the CT’s primary, this produces an alternating magnetic field in
its core. And as a result, an AC voltage is induced in the CT’s secondary
winding, which can provide an alternating current N times smaller than
that flowing through the single-turn
primary (assuming that it’s connected
to a low-impedance load or ‘burden’).
This is illustrated by the expression
at upper right in Fig.1, relating secondary current IS to primary current IP .
Fig.2: the AD16-22FVA meter is easy to use. One of the power leads from the AC
source to the load passes through the CT (polarity connections do not matter),
while the other two leads connect across the source.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
The AD16-22FVA meter
The AD16-22FVA is both the physically smallest meter that we will describe in this article, and also the lowest in cost.
As you can see from the photos,
it’s quite tiny, measuring only 31mm
wide, 31mm high and 56mm deep. Behind the front square display section,
the body is cylindrical so it can pass
through a 22mm diameter hole in the
panel. It comes with a matching plastic ‘nut’ which allows the meter to be
attached firmly to the panel.
The CT is separate and is connected to the meter via a light two-wire
lead. The CT lead is close to 180mm
long, while the meter’s own lead is
100mm long.
The AD16-22FVA has two 3-digit
7-segment LED displays, one above
the other, with both sets of digits 7mm
high. And the meter is available in five
versions, with red, blue, green, yellow
or white displays. It’s hard to be sure,
but I suspect that all these versions
differ only by having different colour
filters in front of the same white LED
displays. The voltage measurement
range of all versions is 60-500V AC,
while their current range is 0-100A.
The AD16-22FVA meter is very easy
to set up and use, as you can see from
Fig.2. All you have to do is pass one
of the load power leads through the
centre of the CT, and then connect the
power terminals of the meter to the
same source of AC power.
I found the AD16-22FVA advertised
on AliExpress by the supplier Sevenstar Tools at $4.58 plus 78¢ for delivery
(including the CT). The ‘white display’
version I ordered arrived about 30 days
later, in good condition.
January 2021 103
I checked its performance with my
reference instruments, using a finned
oil heater as the load. It gave voltage
readings that were 0.2% low and current readings that were 0.94% low,
compared with my Agilent U1251B
DMM. So the AD16-22FVA may be
tiny, but its performance is quite respectable.
I admit that I found the small 3-digit
displays a little hard to read. But for
less than $5.50, it still represents excellent value.
The DL69-2042, shown
at actual size, looks nearly identical
to the DSN-VC288 shown in the last article.
The DL69-2042 meter
Apart from the separate CT, the
DL69-2042 AC meter looks almost
identical to the DSN-VC288 DC meter we checked out in the last article.
It’s somewhat larger than the AD1622FVA at 80mm wide, 42mm high and
48mm deep. It clips into a 75 x 39mm
rectangular hole in a panel.
The DL69-2042 sports two 4-digit
7-segment LED displays, both with
digits 10mm high. The volts display
is at the top, with a red filter, while
the current display is below with a
green filter.
This meter has a voltage range of 80300V, although it is also available with
a range of 200-450V. In both cases, the
current range is 0-100A. The rated accuracy is ±1%, ±2 digits for both voltage and current.
I found the DL69-2042 advertised
on the Banggood website for $17.00
plus $3.73 air parcel shipping (again,
including the CT), ie, about four times
the price of the AD16-22FVA. It too arrived safely about 30 days later.
When I checked it out using the
same test setup as before, the voltage
readings were only 0.2% high while
the current readings were 2% high.
This was just within spec at the current level concerned (about 6A).
Like the AD16-22FVA, the DL692042 is quite easy to use, as you can
see from Fig.3. Again all you need to
do is thread one of the wires connecting to the load through the centre of
the CT core, then connect the meter’s
voltage input terminals to the same
source of AC power.
Both the CT and Vin terminal blocks
are on the rear of the meter’s case;
they’re only shown on the front in
Fig.3 for clarity.
The larger digits make the DL692042 significantly easier to read than
the AD16-22FVA, while the 4-digit
displays provide higher resolution.
104
Silicon Chip
The DL69-2042 has a measurement range of 80-300V and 0-100A. There are also
some versions with a voltage range of 200-450V. You can even buy it online from
the Dick Smith website which is owned by Kogan.
Fig.3: as you might expect, like all the other panel meters described in this
article, the DL69-2042 is very simple to operate.
So this meter is good value for money even at its higher price. If you only
need readings for both voltage and current, it is a good choice.
The PZEM-061 meter
If the PZEM-061 AC meter looks a
bit familiar, that’s because apart from
the accompanying CT, it looks almost
Australia’s electronics magazine
identical to the PZEM-051 DC meter module we described last month.
That’s because it is manufactured by
the same firm, Ningbo Peacefair Electronic Technology, in China’s Zhejiang province.
Like the Peacefair DC meter, it
comes in a rectangular case measuring
90mm wide, 50mm high and 25mm
siliconchip.com.au
The rear and internals of the PZEM-061. It has a measurement range of 80-260V
and 0-100A in addition to reading power levels from 0-22kW (power factor is
taken into account). The front of the meter is pictured on page 102 and has a
bright blue backlight.
Fig.4: how to set up the PZEM-061 for
measurement.
ing as 1000-9999W and readings for
power levels above 10kW showing as
10.0-22.0kW.
The energy consumed range is
0-9999kWh (kilowatt-hours), with
readings below 10kWh showing as
0-9999Wh and readings above 10kWh
showing as 10-9999kWh.
It has a small recessed button at
centre right on the front panel, allowing you to switch the backlighting on
or off, reset the energy consumption
level to zero to start a new set of measurements, or set a power level alarm
threshold to a level between 0.0 and
22.0kW.
The PZEM-061 is again quite easy
to use, as you can see from Fig.4. You
simply need to pass one of the load
power leads through the centre of the
CT, and then connect the meter’s own
power leads to the same source of power. The four-way terminal block is at
the rear of the meter, but is shown in
Fig.4 at the front, for clarity.
I found the PZEM-061 advertised on
the Banggood website for $19.22 plus
$3.73 for air parcel delivery. Again, it
arrived about 30 days after I ordered it.
The rated measurement accuracy
of the PZEM-061 is ±1%, and when
I checked it out, I found the voltage
readings to be 0.21% high while the
current readings were 0.05% high.
That is not only well within spec, but
quite respectable. The power and energy readings were accurate too; not
surprising as these are calculated from
the measured voltage and current.
Although the display digits are only
6.5mm high, the blue LED backlighting makes them quite easy to read. So
all in all, the PZEM-061 represents excellent value for money.
The D69-2058 meter
deep, designed to clip inside a rectangular panel opening 87 x 46mm. Like
the DC meter, it also features an LCD
window measuring 50 x 30mm with
blue LED backlighting, the main digits being about 6.5mm high.
In addition to the voltage and current readings, it also shows the corresponding power level and energy
siliconchip.com.au
consumed. All of these parameters
are displayed using four digits (see the
left-hand photo on page 102).
The voltage measurement range is
80-260V and the current range 0-100A.
The power range is 0-22kW, with readings for power levels below 1kW showing as 0.0-999.9W, readings for power
levels between 1kW and 10kW showAustralia’s electronics magazine
The last AC meter we’re describing
is the D69-2058 multi-function meter.
This one is slightly smaller than the
PZEM-061 at 80mm wide, 42mm high
and 47mm deep, but it displays a total
of six measurement parameters: voltage, current, power, mains frequency,
energy consumption and power factor
(see the right-hand photo on page 102).
The D69-2058 has an LCD screen
with digits about 6.5mm high, and it
is quite bright, so all the parameters
are easy to read. The voltage display
has four digits and covers the range
of 80-300V (although the meter can
alternatively be ordered with a range
of 200-450V).
January 2021 105
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Shown above are the internals of the D69-2058 AC panel meter. Compared to
the previous three meters, this one offers a lot more features displaying voltage,
current, power, mains frequency, energy consumption and power factor. The
front view can be seen on page 102.
Fig.5: how to use the D69-2058 meter.
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106
Silicon Chip
The current range covers 0-99.99A,
with a minimum resolution of 0.01A.
Power can be displayed over the range
0-9999.9W, with a claimed accuracy
of 0.1W. Mains frequency can be displayed over the range 45-65Hz, which
should cover all countries outside of
odd situations.
Energy consumption can be calculated and displayed over the range
from 0-999999kWh, with a resolution of 0.01kWh for values below
1000kWh, a resolution of 0.1kWh for
values up to 9999.9kWh, and 1kWh for
values up to 999,999kWh. Finally, the
power factor is shown as 0.00-1.00.
The rated accuracy of the D69-2058
for voltage and current is ±1%, ±2
LSDs (least-significant digits).
I found the D69-2058 on offer at AliExpress from a supplier called Cooperate Electric Store, for $19.65 plus 81¢
for airmail shipping. It arrived in good
condition about 40 days later.
The D69-2058 is just as easy to use as
Australia’s electronics magazine
each of the other AC meters, as you can
see from Fig.5. I found that the voltage readings were 0.22% high, while
the current readings were 0.22% low.
So the power readings should be very
close to spot-on.
Summary
All of these AC panel meters work
well and offer excellent value for money. But I think the one that impressed
me most of all was the D69-2058,
which not only has the largest number
of measurement parameters, but also
the most readable display.
So if you need a multi-function AC
meter for checking the operation of
household appliances or workshop
machines, it would make an excellent choice.
It’s important to make sure that,
regardless of what meter you use, all
your mains wiring is properly insulated, and the meter is housed in an
appropriate, sturdy case!
SC
siliconchip.com.au
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Send your email to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
Dual Battery Lifesaver
mods for 24V
Silicon Chip is a great magazine.
What changes would be necessary to
use the Dual Battery Lifesaver from
the December 2020 issue (siliconchip.
com.au/Article/14673) with a 24V battery? (J. O’G, Allambee, Vic)
• You would need to use a different
regulator as the S-812C33 is only rated
for 16V at its input. The only suitable
regulator we can find in a TO-92 package is the AP7381-33V-A, but it has a
different pinout from the S-812C33. It
could be adapted to the PCB footprint
with a bit of lead-bending.
The capacitor ratings would also
need to be increased to 50V. The Mosfet ratings are 30V, so they should be
just adequate. Other than the above,
you would just need to change the
dividers to suit the higher thresholds.
Isolation transformer
no good for fast signals
In the November 2020 issue (p110),
a reader inquired about “Adjusting
Mosfet dead time with a scope”. Could
this be done by inserting a step-up
transformer in place of the shunt resistor?
Alternatively, could a ferrite clamp
transformer be used to measure the
dead time current magnitude and
shape? The current meter style clamp
I bought at Jaycar has a voltage-to-current conversion table printed on it.
This meter does not seem to be available any more; perhaps you could
publish a project to build one. (N. B.,
Taylors Lakes, Vic)
• A transformer in that role would
affect the measured signal phase, and
would be unlikely to have enough
bandwidth to accurately reproduce
the signal, which has fast rise and
fall times. So a transformer probably
couldn’t be used to measure the Mosfet dead time accurately.
Ferrite current clamp meters have
the same problem, whereas a resistive
shunt does not cause a phase shift and
siliconchip.com.au
will not affect the rise and fall times,
even at low levels. The measurement
limitation then becomes the scope’s
bandwidth and sensitivity, with many
scopes being fast enough and sensitive enough to make this sort of measurement.
As for your idea of a DIY Clamp Meter, we published such an article in the
September 2003 issue (siliconchip.
com.au/Article/3884). That design is
still valid and all the parts used are
still available, although you will have
to find another source of the 50A alligator clip as the original DSE is no
longer around.
Questions about AWA
ribbon mics
I have a pair of AWA ribbon microphones that are identical in every respect to RCA 44BX models, and I’d
like to know if they were made under
licence by AWA or someone else or
just rebadged. I’ve corresponded with
a guy in the USA who reconditions
these; apparently, his father worked
for RCA and designed the 44BX. He’s
fairly sure they’re just rebadged.
I recall them being advertised in
Electronics Australia in the mid-70s
when 4VL was selling off some surplus studio gear. It stuck in my mind
as my brother was an announcer there
around that time.
Years later, a friend told me he
bought them from that ad and subsequently gave them to me. I’ve loaned
them out a couple of times as stage
props, but on both occasions, they
were used as live mics.
My brother worked at QTQ9 for a
period and had their techs check them
out, and they considered they were
still up to broadcast specs.
I have no use for them and would
like them to be used by someone who
does. The price will be enhanced if
someone can confirm that RCA built
them, so I hope someone can fill in the
gaps. (B. M., North Ryde, NSW)
• We don’t know the answer to this,
but maybe one of our readers does.
Australia’s electronics magazine
Using D1 Mini BackPack with 2.8in screen
I happen to have a 2.8-inch TFT
touchscreen on hand, so I am using it
to build the D1 Mini BackPack project
(October 2020; siliconchip.com.au/
Article/14599). I have wired it all up
and loaded the code etc. Only part of
the screen has a display, and the keyboard buttons respond but they are not
aligned. For example, if I press “s” I
get a “c” etc. Are there other software
settings and changes I need to do to
get a 2.8-inch screen working with this
project? (S. O., Sydney, NSW)
• As we said in the article, our software is designed for the 3.5in display,
which uses a different driver and has
a different resolution to the 2.8in display (480x360 compared to 320x240).
If it was simple to make the software work with both displays, we
would have done so, but it is not, and
it will involve more than just changing settings.
The driver and initialisation code
will have to be changed to suit the
ILI9341 controller that is used in the
2.8in display. Also, all the graphics,
touch and user interface will have to
be adjusted to work at the lower display resolution. That means numerous
changes throughout the code.
We are sure that it is possible to get it
to work, but it will involve significant
changes to the demonstration sketch.
D1 Mini BackPack not
showing weather info
I am building the D1 Mini BackPack;
thanks for an interesting project. I have
gone through the software installation,
and everything seemed OK until I got
to the OpenWeather part.
I made a free account and got the
API key straight away. I entered that
into the script and loaded it into the
ESP8266. When I switched it on, the
screen came to life, and I entered my
WiFi info and then selected my location. But all I get on the screen is
my area, WiFi IP address and signal
January 2021 107
strength stating OK (green), plus the
local time. But no weather information
ever comes up.
I am wondering if anybody has had
the same problem. (R. S., Epping, Vic)
• If it is showing the current time,
that means that it is connecting to your
WiFi OK and has internet access. We
don’t know why it isn’t connecting to
OpenWeatherMap. There’s a lot more
information available through the Serial Monitor, so we suggest that you open
that and check what messages appear.
Your API key should be enough for the
weather function to work.
Vintage Radio cabinet
restoration
I always enjoy reading the Vintage
Radio section of your magazine. Associate Professor Graham Parslow and
Ian Batty do a great job presenting the
details of the restoration process. The
October 2020 edition depicts a marvellous 1940 AWA Radiola, and it made
me wonder about how the cabinet is
restored to such fine condition. Have
you ever published details on that subject? (T. V., Ivanhoe East, Vic)
• We do sometimes have descriptions
of cabinet restoration in Vintage Radio articles, but not that often. One
recent example is the article on restoring a 1946 STC model 512 radio in the
August 2017 issue (siliconchip.com.
au/Article/10764), also by Graham
Parslow. That article had around ten
paragraphs describing the cabinet restoration. More recently, there was the
Vogue radio restomod by Fred Lever
(November 2019; siliconchip.com.au/
Article/12101).
Sometimes the cabinet does not require extensive restoration; it might
have been restored before it came into
the writer’s possession. And sometimes they simply don’t cover the restoration in any great detail.
Pocket Oscillator resets
on input selections
I purchased your Shirt Pocket Oscillator kit (September 2020; siliconchip.
com.au/Article/14563) and put it together over a day or two. When I finished it, I powered it up only to be presented with a blank screen. I could see
that the chip was getting power, so I
tried reprogramming it and it came up
with the welcome screen, then 1000
appeared on the screen.
108
Silicon Chip
But when I try to change the frequency or use the rotary encoder,
the ATtiny85 resets and returns to
the welcome screen. The output from
the Oscillator looks OK on my DSO,
as does the signal from the rotary encoder.
Did I receive an ATtiny chip that
wasn’t programmed? Or do I have
something weird going on with my
unit? I have carefully checked my construction and it appears to be all correct. I wonder if you have struck this
problem and if there is an obvious fix
for it. (T. MacC., Bathurst, NSW)
• It does sound like you received
an unprogrammed chip, but we are
mystified how that could happen.
We checked all of our programmed
chips in stock and they appear to all
have been programmed correctly. We
think this was an isolated incident as
we have not received any other similar complaints.
As for it resetting after you have programmed the chip, the designer (Andrew Woodfield) replies:
It is almost certainly due to a failure
to program the fuse bits, and in particular, the high fuse bit 7. If it is possible to verify the chip after programming, then that bit was definitely not
programmed correctly.
In the Pocket Oscillator design, the
RSTDISBL bit must be set to 0. The
default for this fuse bit is 1, in which
case, any high-to-low transition on the
RST pin (pin 1), where the rotary encoder is connected, will reset the chip.
The fix is easy: program the fuse bit
as described in the article, using any
normal Atmel/Microchip programmer such as one of the super cheap
USBASP programmers.
Once this has been done, you can
no longer reprogram the chip because
the chip will not respond to the reset
signal from the programmer at the
start of programming. The only way
to program a chip once it has been
flashed with RSTDISBL=0 (or with an
incorrectly configured clock source)
is to use a high-voltage programmer.
cycle lead-acid battery that cost over
$200, and I want to keep it on float
charge most of the time and use it for
an electric outboard motor.
Would your Universal Battery
Charge Controller (December 2019;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/12159) be
the way to go? I note that you had a
Deep Cycle Charger (November 2004;
siliconchip.com.au/Series/102), but
thought that might be a bit dated by
now. (G. C., Toormina, NSW)
• Yes, the December 2019 Charge Controller is suitable for float charging.
The November 2004 charger would
also work, but you might find it hard
to source some of the parts now.
I recently had a deep-cycle battery
that gets infrequent use, fail while being kept on float charge. That was with
a standard battery charger and a regulator added on to maintain the float
voltage. I have purchased another deep
December 2019; siliconchip.com.au/
Series/339) and testing it set to 0V with
all pots turned low, I measure -0.417V
at the output.
The article says if it is not 0V, to
check for faults and I’m wondering
How to use Silicon
Chip short links
At the bottom of page 13 in your November 2019 issue, there is a reference
to an article numbered 8124. How do
I find this from your home page? (B.
H., Pacific Pines, Qld)
• It took me a while to figure out
which page of which issue you are referring to. I think it is the web link at
the bottom of page 13 in the November 2019 issue (siliconchip.com.au/
Article/8124).
All you need to do is type the link
address (in this case, “siliconchip.
com.au/Article/8124”) into the address bar on a web browser and press
Enter. It will then take you to the appropriate page. The situation is the
same with our short links to external
websites, which are formatted like
siliconchip.com.au/link/abcd
The links will also work with a
www. in front, but we leave that part
out to keep the links as short as possible. That’s also why we don’t prefix
the links with http:// or https://, which
is technically required to make them
proper URLs. But most web browsers
default to assuming the HTTP protocol, so we don’t include that part of
the links either.
Bench supply output
slightly negative
Using Charge Controller sits
I’m at the point of final testing of the
for float charging
45V 8A Linear Power Supply (October-
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
where to look. I also think the temperature reading is a couple of degrees
higher than actual and I’m wondering
if there’s a way to calibrate that. (S. B.,
Banyo, Qld)
• Assuming that you haven’t reversed
the output terminals, the schottky diode should clamp any negative voltage at the output near the output terminals (the one that was confusingly
marked D5 or D6 in different places).
A non-zero positive reading could
indicate a circuit fault, but that diode
is the only thing that could cause a
negative voltage to slip through. We
suspect that it will go away once you
complete the calibration.
The displayed temperature simply comes from a table in the file
“thermistor.h”, so to fully recalibrate
the temperature readings, you would
need to alter that table and recompile
the software.
Otherwise, try changing the value
of the 9.1kW resistor between pin 1 of
CON7 and the +12V rail. That will only
allow you to shift the temperature at
one point, so it might become inaccurate in other places, and it might also
affect how the fans respond and the
thermal shutdown point.
Trouble with touchscreen on Arduino
I purchased the PCB to adapt the
3.5in LCD touchscreen to an Arduino
in the May 2019 issue (siliconchip.
com.au/Article/11629) along with an
ILI9488-based 3.5in screen. The graphics test and SPI display demo sketches
work correctly.
However, the SPI touch calibration loads the serial monitor display
correctly, then blanks the screen and
doesn’t respond to serial inputs or
screen touches. Also, the SPI shield
demo with touch failed to verify (compile) giving the error message “cannot
declare variable ‘c’...” from line 11.
All of these sketches place a lot of
technical bookkeeping in the main
program. Any suggestions to get these
programs running would be appreciated. Silicon Chip magazine is always
a great read! (D. H., Nelson, NZ)
• The only difference we can see between our setup and yours is that you
are using the older Arduino 1.6.13,
while we are using 1.8.5. We are sure
that this is the cause of the “cannot
declare variable ‘c’...” error, and probably the other failures as well. Please
siliconchip.com.au
upgrade your Arduino IDE to version
1.8.5 and then try again.
The reason we put everything in the
main program is to make it easier for
people to modify the software and see
how it works.
Wide-range LC Meter
pitfalls
I recently built the Wide Range Arduino based LC meter (June 2018;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/11099). I
am having some difficulty getting it to
work, and wanted to ask if there was
any errata published for this project
which might help me work out what
is wrong. (B. C., UK)
• There are no known problems with
the article or the design, but there are
a few common pitfalls which can prevent it from working, and can be frustrating to track down.
The two biggest problems that we
have seen from constructors are:
1) Using a relay which has a different pinout, coil voltage or integral
diode compared to the one we used.
Partly this is because our suggested
sources (Jaycar/Altronics) theoretically sell only suitable relays of the
type we specified.
Still, other types are available elsewhere, and it is easy to get them mixed
up. Suppliers might sometimes have
12V relays in their 5V bins, so you
need to check!
The usual symptom of incorrect relays is that the display will work, but
the results will be wrong, or the unit
won’t calibrate correctly. If all the relays are heard to be clicking when operating the device, then there’s a good
chance that is not the problem.
2) Variants of the I2C LCD controller
having a different address. The code
notes (at line 14) that the controller
could be in the range 0x20-0x27, but
there are variants which have addresses from 0x38-0x3F.
If the default address of 0x27 doesn’t
work, try changing it to 0x3F. If the
display is not working, there’s a good
chance this is the reason. This was
noted in an erratum that we published
in September 2018.
Any number of other construction
errors could also show either of these
symptoms, but it is worth checking
the above first. Finally, we note that
one constructor reported that the unit
started working after changing the
comparator IC for another one.
Australia’s electronics magazine
Maximite or
Micromite?
I just bought the “Maximite BackPack” and have assembled it and have
tried it on a terminal. It will connect
and give answers to print 1/7 etc and
the LCD screen lights brightly. But it
will not run the OPTION LCD command; it just says “command not recognised”. Can you suggest anything to
help? I thought of reflashing the HEX
file but am not really sure how. (R. M.,
Ilkley, Qld)
• We haven’t published a Maximite
BackPack. Are you sure it is a Maximite and not a Micromite? Please send
us a copy of the terminal text (commands and responses) so that we can
check them. Also send the results of
this command (which prints the software version):
PRINT MM.VER
The Micromite has no OPTION LCD
command, only OPTION LCDPANEL
so perhaps this is the root of your problems. By default, the screen will light
up white if it is not initialised.
If you want to try reflashing the HEX
file, refer to the Microbridge article
from May 2017 (siliconchip.com.au/
Article/10648).
Running SC200
amplifier from ±63V
Can I power the SC200 amplifier
(January-March 2017; siliconchip.
com.au/Series/308) from a ±63V DC
supply? (R. R., Melbourne, Vic)
• We definitely don’t recommend doing that if you are going to drive 4W
speakers, as you are likely to blow
the output transistors at high output
levels.
We still don’t think it’s a great idea
with 8W speakers, but you might get
away with it. Check your speaker impedance curves (if you have access
to them) to verify that their lowest
impedance is not too low at any given frequency (ideally, no lower than
about 6W). Hopefully, that will keep
the output transistors within their safe
operating areas.
You will have to change the 63Vrated capacitors to 80V or 100V types,
as your supply is likely to have peaks
above 63V. We don’t think any of the
other parts would need to change.
So basically, if you are willing to
risk the output transistors and have 8W
January 2021 109
speakers without any very low impedance dips, you could consider trying
it. But we cannot guarantee that it will
work as the design was not verified
with supply voltages above 60V DC.
Speed Controller cuts
out at higher currents
A few months, I built the High Power DC Motor Speed Controller (January
& February 2017; siliconchip.com.au/
Series/309) with some modifications.
I raised the switching frequency because the motor was too noisy.
I am using this controller for one
Minn Kota 12V trolling motor. I have
used the motor on my fishing boat
with this speed controller, and I’m
happy with it.
But I have one problem that I can’t
solve. Without load, I can adjust the
speed from minimum to maximum
without a problem.
When loaded, once the speed potentiometer is halfway and the current reaches around 16A, the motor
suddenly stops for one second and
then runs again, then stops again. If I
reduce the speed a little bit, the motor
runs normally.
When it stops for a fraction of a second, it also lights up the red LED. My
battery is a 100Ah lithium type and can
provide more than 50A without problems. I assumed the back-EMF was the
problem but adjusting the trimmers
does not solve it. (A. D., via email)
• This is probably due to the lowvoltage shutdown setting. At 16A, the
battery voltage drops below the low
voltage threshold, and the voltage increases when the motor is switched
off or the speed is reduced. Adjust
low-voltage threshold trimpot VR3
for a slightly lower cut-out voltage,
so that the battery does not reach the
cut-out voltage during normal operation when charged.
Uses for ‘electronic
transformers’
Has Silicon Chip magazine ever
published any applications for the
ubiquitous electronic transformer? Are
they suitable and safe for inclusion
into various power supply projects?
I have been one of your keen readers for many years; I used to read Electronics Australia since the 1960s and
made many of the kits. (E. U., Castle
Hill, NSW)
110
Silicon Chip
•
We haven’t used the switchmode
12V AC output ‘transformers’ in any
projects (typically used for driving
halogen or LED downlights). However,
we used the older style 12V AC halogen transformers in a battery charger
project in April 2013 (siliconchip.com.
au/Article/3759).
We would not recommend using
the switchmode transformers in this
application, as they were connected
in parallel for more current, and the
electronic versions may be damaged
when paralleled.
Electronic transformers can usually be used as a 12V AC supply. They
may fail or shutdown if connected to
a bridge rectifier and filter capacitor
to derive a DC supply.
They are mainly suitable for the purpose they were designed for, ie, supplying 12V AC to a resistive load such
as for LED lighting.
CDI module needed
for use in jet skis
I want to rebuild some retro 1980s
& 1990s stand-up jet skis with Kawasaki JS550 twin-cylinder, two-stroke
engines.
These all had CDI systems originally, but it is difficult and expensive
to get original parts, so I am thinking
of building replacement CDI systems
for them. As I understand it, they have
a wasted spark arrangement, where
both plugs are both fired every half
revolution.
On the later models, they realised
that a rev limiter was needed for when
the impeller cavitates and the engine
spins on no load, so that would be a
good feature to add.
I am considering your Replacement
CDI Module For Small Petrol Motors
from May 2008 (siliconchip.com.au/
Article/1820), but I see that you have
also published other ignition systems,
including a Multi-Spark CDI in December 2014 & January 2015 (siliconchip.
com.au/Series/279).
Can you recommend which option
is best for me, and what smart/programmable controls could be added
to such as a rev limiter, multi-spark,
timing advance etc.
As the HV coils and CDI were all
sealed inside a single factory original
unit, what is your recommended coil
arrangement? There seem to be several aftermarket twin coils for sale online, but how would I choose? Their
Australia’s electronics magazine
only specifications are primary and
secondary impedance values. (L. C.,
Donvale, Vic)
• The Kawasaki magneto ignition includes a high-voltage generator coil to
produce around 300V to charge the capacitor in the CDI, and another trigger
coil to fire the ignition.
The May 2008 replacement CDI unit
should be suitable. This CDI will work
with many ignition coils, so the choice
is not critical, and ideally, you should
use the two high-tension outputs to
drive both spark plugs.
We don’t recommend that you use
so-called “sports coils” as these can
develop very high voltages and could
break down when used with a CDI.
The primary resistance of the coil
is an indication of whether the coil
is suitable. Choose one rated at 3W or
more (for a 12V coil). That means that
the charged (or saturation) coil current would be less than 5A (assuming a 14.4V supply from the battery).
Many sports coils have a much higher
charging current.
The multi-spark CDI is more for converting a standard ignition that has
conventional triggers such as reluctor,
Hall effect or optical and powered via
a battery supply.
We have published two rev limiter
designs which you could use, one
in April 1999 (siliconchip.com.au/
Article/4589) and one February 2008
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/1753).
Substituting amplifier
output transistors
I am building a pair of 500W Power
Amplifier modules (August-October
1997; siliconchip.com.au/Series/146),
the article specifies 12 MJL21193/4
output transistors. I have been looking around and found the MJL1302/
MJL3281 which have almost identical
specifications.
Their safe operating area (SOA) is
the same, but the 1302/3281 maximum collector voltage is slightly less
at 200V compared to 250V; the maximum collector current is 15A vs 16A.
The gain-bandwidth products of these
transistors are quite different 4MHz
vs 30MHz.
Can I substitute the MJL1302/3281s
or should I spend more and buy the
MJL21193/4? If they can be substituted, are any modifications required? (L.
K., Wanganui, NZ)
continued on page 112
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WARNING!
SILICON CHIP magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such
projects should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring
should be carried out according to the instructions in the articles.
When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with mains
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siliconchip.com.au
Australia’s electronics magazine
January 2021 111
•
While the MJL21193/94 transistors
from ON Semiconductor are recommended, they are now obsolete and
difficult to get. We recommend the ON
Semiconductor NJW21193/94 transistors instead.
You could use MJL1302/MJL3281.
As you mention, they have a higher
cut off frequency. This might or might
not be a problem.
They may give better performance,
but it’s also possible that the amplifiers
could oscillate. If you find the DC fuses
are blowing for no reason, try increasing the value of the 100pF 500V compensation capacitor. However, as that
value is quite high, it should be OK.
According to the circuit, you need
seven of each type of transistor, regardless of which types you use.
Power supply cable
stripe polarity
I use figure-8 speaker cable (eg,
Jaycar WB1703) in many projects.
Should the black stripe for polarity
identification be used for positive or
negative?
I originally thought black indicates
negative, but then I noticed that most
plugpacks have the striped side of
the wire indicating positive. Now I’m
thinking that as positive is the wire I
want to be identified, perhaps I should
always use the black striped wire for
positive.
I use the wire for motors and Arduino projects, but if anyone was connecting speaker wire to the black and red
terminals on a speaker box, surely the
wire with the black stripe would go to
the black terminal. Is there a standard
for this? (J. B., Benalla, Vic)
•
If you have red and black wires,
then usually red would be positive
and black would be negative. But it’s
a bit more tricky when you have a
stripe. Sometimes you have a white
stripe, sometimes a red stripe and
sometimes a black stripe (and possibly other colours).
Usually, the stripe is used to indicate positive, but that certainly is confusing when the stripe is black.
Ultimately, it doesn’t matter as long
as you are consistent so that there is
no confusion. As you say, plugpacks
tend to use the stripe for positive
(usually a white stripe, though), so
it would make sense to follow that
convention.
Probably the best solution would be
to use Jaycar Cat WH3057, WH3087
or similar cable which has red and
black insulation for the two wires in
the cable.
Flashing lights wanted
for model railway
I am trying to find a railway crossing flashing light kit, or at least a PCB
for it. I am sure I have seen something
like it in past magazine issues. I have
searched your site without success.
Could someone point me in the right
direction? (P. C., via email)
• We published a two-lamp flasher
circuit (January 1998; siliconchip.
com.au/Article/4748). You can download its PCB pattern from the following page: siliconchip.com.au/
Shop/10/2362
Jaycar also sells a kit for that project, Cat KJ8070. This design runs
from 12V and so is suitable for 12V
SC
lamps.
Advertising Index
Altronics...............................89-92
Ampec Technologies................. 19
Dave Thompson...................... 111
Digi-Key Electronics.................... 3
Emona Instruments................. 101
Jaycar............................ IFC,53-60
Keith Rippon Kit Assembly...... 111
LD Electronics......................... 111
LEDsales................................. 111
Microchip Technology.............. IBC
Mouser Electronics...................... 7
Ocean Controls......................... 39
Rohde & Schwarz.................. OBC
SC Micromite BackPack............ 47
Silicon Chip Binders............... 106
Silicon Chip PDFs on USB..... 111
Silicon Chip Shop.................. 100
Silicon Chip Subscriptions....... 88
The Loudspeaker Kit.com......... 99
Tronixlabs................................ 111
Vintage Radio Repairs............ 111
Wagner Electronics..................... 5
Notes & Errata
Balanced Input Attenuator for the USB SuperCodec, November-December 2020: the photo shown halfway down the lefthand column on page 71 of the December 2020 issue, showing the wiring to the power connector, is incorrect. The positive
(red) wire should be shown going to the bottom-most pin in the socket, with the black (negative) wire to the top. Also, in the
circuit diagram on pages 50 & 51 of the November 2020 issue, the centre (ground) pin of CON3 at upper right should only be
connected to the junction of the two zener diodes, the negative end of the 100µF capacitor next to switch S1 and the negative
ends of all relay coils. The junction between this ground and the other grounds in the circuit is on the main SuperCodec board.
Two LED Christmas Stars, November 2020: in the parts lists on page 41, there is no such part as a 75HC595. It should read
74HC595 instead.
D1 Mini LCD BackPack with WiFi, October 2020: in the circuit diagram (Fig.1), the connections to pins 7 & 8 on the LCD
module via CON1 are swapped. The drain of Q1 should go to pin 8 (LED) while pin 7 is the display SCK line and also connects
to pin 10 on the LCD module and on to the D5 pin of MOD1.
The February 2021 issue is due on sale in newsagents by Thursday, January 28th. Expect postal delivery of
subscription copies in Australia between January 27th and February 12th.
112
Silicon Chip
Australia’s electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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