This is only a preview of the July 2022 issue of Silicon Chip. You can view 44 of the 112 pages in the full issue, including the advertisments. For full access, purchase the issue for $10.00 or subscribe for access to the latest issues. Articles in this series:
Items relevant to "Multimeter Calibrator & Checker":
Items relevant to "VGA PicoMite":
Items relevant to "0-110dB RF Attenuator":
Items relevant to "Secure Remote Mains Switch, Part 1":
Articles in this series:
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JULY 2022
ISSN 1030-2662
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Contents
Vol.35, No.7
July 2022
14 IC Fabrication, Part 2
Shrinking node sizes and cutting-edge EUV (extreme ultraviolet) lithography
machines are just a few of the topics covered in the next instalment of our
series on how integrated circuits are made.
By Dr David Maddison
Semiconductors
41 Anycubic Photon Mono 3D printer
This 3D printer from Anycubic is an affordable resin-based printer. The resin
is cured by a UV light that passes through a 2K resolution LCD screen (4K in
the new version). Resin is available in multiple colours and brands.
By Tim Blythman & Nicolas Hannekum
3D printer review
68 Oatley Solar Charge Controller
Oatley Electronics have two new solar charging kits which are suitable for
charging 12V and 24V lead-acid batteries. Included with the controllers are
a single 16W solar panel or two 16W panels respectively.
By John Clarke
Solar device review
83 PAS CO2 Air Quality Sensor
In this article we cover the Infineon XENSIV PAS air quality sensor module.
PAS (photoacoustic spectroscopy) sensors work by determining how gas
particles absorb specific wavelengths of infrared light.
By Jim Rowe
Low-cost electronic modules
31 Multimeter Calibrator & Checker
Our Multimeter Checker can verify how accurate your multimeters are. It
can also be used to calibrate meters and adjust for drift. It can calibrate AC
and DC voltage, direct current, frequency and resistance ranges.
By Tim Blythman
Test equipment project
52 VGA PicoMite
With just a Raspberry Pi Pico and minimal extra components, you can
build this amazingly capable BASIC computer. It has a 640 x 480 pixel VGA
output, PS/2 keyboard input and uses an SD card for storage.
By Geoff Graham & Peter Mather
Raspberry Pi project
62 0-110dB RF Attenuator
This 0-110dB RF Attenuator is designed to be used with the AM/FM Signal
Generator from the May 2022 issue. Still, you can use it with just about any
signal generator to provide output level adjustments in 1dB steps.
By Charles Kosina
Test equipment project
72 Secure Remote Mains Switch, Pt1
Our Remote Mains Switch has up to 68m line-of-sight range and can handle
one to 16 transmitters per receiver. It can switch up to 30A at 250V AC,
includes an adjustable timer and uses a secure UHF rolling code.
By John Clarke
Mains power project
Multimeter
-Checker
-Calibrator
Page 31
Page 62
110dB RF
Attenuator
Page 72
Secure Remote
MAINS SWITCH
2
Editorial Viewpoint
4
Mailbag
78
Circuit Notebook
82
Product Showcase
86
Serviceman’s Log
93
Subscriptions
94
Vintage Radio
1. Switching on external devices via a TV
2. Variable L-pad speaker volume control
3. Transmitting in the FM broadcast band
4. Plugpack voltage and current monitor
Astor CJ-12 car radio by Dr Hugo Holden
105
Ask Silicon Chip
106
Online Shop
111
Market Centre
112
Advertising Index
112
Notes & Errata
SILICON
SILIC
CHIP
www.siliconchip.com.au
Publisher/Editor
Nicholas Vinen
Technical Editor
John Clarke – B.E.(Elec.)
Technical Staff
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Bao Smith – B.Sc.
Tim Blythman – B.E., B.Sc.
Nicolas Hannekum (resigned)
Advertising Enquiries
Glyn Smith
Mobile 0431 792 293
glyn<at>siliconchip.com.au
Regular Contributors
Allan Linton-Smith
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David Maddison – B.App.Sc. (Hons 1),
PhD, Grad.Dip.Entr.Innov.
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Associate Professor Graham Parslow
Dr Hugo Holden – B.H.B, MB.ChB.,
FRANZCO
Ian Batty – M.Ed.
Phil Prosser – B.Sc., B.E.(Elec.)
Cartoonist
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loueee.com
Former Cartoonist
Brendan Akhurst
Founding Editor (retired)
Leo Simpson – B.Bus., FAICD
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Editorial Viewpoint
Low-cost UPSes are not worth the risk
Ten or more years ago, purchasing an uninterruptible
power supply (UPS) for a computer or other piece of critical equipment was quite expensive. Usually, you would
have to buy a brand like APC. While their quality was
reasonable, those units had very few features and cost
a few hundred dollars for even a moderately-sized one.
But more recently, many less-expensive units have
come onto the market. These are very tempting because
if you only need a basic UPS, you don’t want to pay hundreds of dollars more for what seems to be essentially the same thing.
But these cheap units are usually too cheap. They come with low-quality batteries and have dumb charging schemes, often without proper battery management or thermal cut-outs. As a result, you’re lucky if the battery lasts more than
a year or two. Even decent quality gel cell (SLA) batteries will generally not last
more than a couple of years in these devices.
When the battery inevitably fails, it can leak acid and overheat badly. While I
haven’t heard of any such units catching fire, it doesn’t seem impossible. I had
one of these fail on me, and it got stinking hot and reeked of acid. I had to disassemble the UPS to get the badly distorted and swollen battery out.
More recently, I have heard from several other people who have had similar
experiences with various low-cost UPS brands.
I went into a bit more detail about my bad experience and what I did to prevent
it from happening again in an article in the January 2020 issue titled “Emergency
backup power during blackouts” (siliconchip.au/Article/12215).
While it is a somewhat more expensive solution initially, buying an inverter/
charger and a separate, high-quality battery (AGM or LiFePO4) is much better.
This approach lets you independently select the maximum power and backup
time requirements. Battery replacement is easy, and the battery will last a lot
longer. A decent AGM battery designed for standby use should have a useful life
of at least five years, while a top-quality unit might last ten.
Consider that most low-cost UPSes only offer a ‘runtime’ of around 10 minutes
at full load. In contrast, the inverter/charger solution can maintain its output for
hours without mains power. Even days, if that’s what you need.
The long-term cost of this type of solution may not be that much higher than
a cheap UPS because you won’t have to replace the battery as often. That means
less maintenance and less chance of catastrophic battery failure. That’s partly
because you aren’t stuck with gel cells but also because you can locate it outside
the main unit, where cooling air can better circulate.
If you must use a low-cost UPS, I suggest taking the battery out before you
even use it and checking to see if it is a decent-quality unit. If not, immediately
replace it with a higher-quality equivalent and either sell the battery that came
with it or use it for another less-critical purpose.
It would also be worth checking whether the UPS you buy has a thermal cutout to stop charging the battery if it fails. If you can’t see a temperature sensor
near the battery, it probably doesn’t.
I won’t suggest that you add a thermal cut-out if one is missing because I don’t
have the space to describe how to do that properly. Ultimately, I think it isn’t
worth dealing with a poorly-designed low-cost UPS. If possible, buy a better one
or try the inverter-charger option I mentioned above.
Ongoing mail delays
Apologies to readers who received their May issues late (or not at all). They
were mailed on-time but soon after came the Easter and Anzac Day public holidays, terrible weather and general postal chaos.
Unfortunately, it seems that the postal system is not stable yet and might not
be for some time. We mail out the magazines consistently in the middle of the
previous month, but we are at the mercy of inconsistent delivery times.
by Nicholas Vinen
24-26 Lilian Fowler Pl, Marrickville 2204
2
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
MAILBAG
your feedback
Letters and emails should contain complete name, address and daytime phone number. Letters to the Editor are submitted on the condition that
Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd has the right to edit, reproduce in electronic form, and communicate these letters. This also applies to submissions to “Ask Silicon Chip”, “Circuit Notebook” and “Serviceman’s Log”.
Reason for bundled mains cables
On page 4 of the May 2022 issue, George Ramsey mentions bundled overhead mains cables. These cables have
been in use in Victoria for at least two decades. They are
used in areas of heavy forest or bushfire-prone areas.
While installation may be cheaper, they are really used
to increase safety. If a tree branch falls on open wires, they
break and fall to the ground, leaving eight active wires,
which can cause electrocution or start fires.
If a branch falls on a bundled cable, it will break and
fall, but the active ends will still be insulated, so the fallen
cable is relatively safe. If the ends short, this will trip the
circuit breakers and shut off the power. The chance of
starting a fire from the ends is relatively small because
the live area is so small.
If exposed to fire, the insulation will melt and the
exposed cables will short together, once again tripping
the breakers. The cable may then break, but there is no
danger of increasing the fire or harming people with no
power applied.
David Tuck, Yallourn North, Vic.
More on bundled mains cables
I’m writing regarding the letter from George Ramsay
and the following comment in the May 2022 issue about
aerial mains cables.
We have had aerial bunched/bundled cables in Victoria for over 20 years. I think they were probably initially
developed with bushfire areas in mind, to reduce the risk
of sparking from open wire mains installations contacting vegetation.
They also arguably have less visual impact; although
the cable is much thicker, there are fewer cross-tees and
insulators, along with less leakage and RF noise due to
dust build-up on the insulators.
They also allow for a somewhat reduced distance for
vegetation clearance, which gained support from fringe
Melbourne councils, concerned about severe tree pruning around power lines.
John Anwin, Healesville, Vic.
Vintage Test Gear giveaway
Over many years, I have amassed quite a collection
of ‘vintage’ test equipment, some made in Australia and
some imported from overseas. They have all been acquired
legally – some donated by friends, others salvaged from
now-defunct magazines and companies, and some purchased by myself.
I have now reached an age where I am happy to give
these items away to anyone interested in taking them
4
Silicon Chip
– to give them ‘a good home’. Here is the list of equipment on offer:
1 × Advance OS1000A analog CRO (2 × 20MHz?)
1 × Kikusui COS5100 analog CRO (2 × 100MHz)
1 × AWA analog CRO (5-inch)
1 × AWA F242A Distortion & Noise Meter
1 × AWA G-233 Ultra Low Distortion Audio
Generator (10Hz to 110kHz)
1 × AWA Type 3R7231 RF Signal Generator SN 184
(big and very heavy)
1 × AWA Beat Frequency Oscillator Type R-7077
1 × Kikusui KSG4100 FM/AM Signal Generator2 x
Palec SG-1 RF Signal Generators (SN 50, 269)
1 × Palec SA06-69 All Wave Oscillator
1 × Advance RF Signal Generator Type E Model 2
(100kHz to 100MHz)
1 × Advance Q-Meter Type T2 (SN443)
1 × B&K Model 1076-E-S Television Analyst
1 × Leader LAG-125 Low Distortion Audio Oscillator
1 × Lodestar LCR-3000A LCR Bridge
1 × GW GVT-417 AC Millivoltmeter
1 × Bird Model 612 RF Wattmeter (30 to 500MHz)
1 × AVO Electronic Test Meter
1 × AVO ‘Universal AVO Meter’
1 × Simpson Model 260 Multimeter, with three
adaptors: Battery Tester, Audio Wattmeter and
Milliohm meter.
They are located near Sydney Airport. If anyone is
interested in taking them away, please send an e-mail to
silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
Jim Rowe, Silicon Chip.
Can you recharge disposable cells?
I saw that Amazon is selling a battery charger designed
by Popular Mechanics that claims to recharge just about
any type of battery, including disposable types (https://
amazon.com/dp/B08KYK41PW). Reading between the
lines, it does not really work. I doubt it is actually a Popular Mechanics design or product, or at least is not being
used as intended.
It might be a topic worthy of an article.
David Mills, Oakleigh, Vic.
Comment: We’ve published several articles on this subject
in the past. It used to be well-known that primary batteries can be recharged a limited number of times. How
well it works depends on the condition of the cells, their
exact chemistry etc.
This was explained in our recent All About Batteries
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
series (January-March 2022; siliconchip.au/Series/375)
and the November 1994 Dry-Cell Battery Rejuvenator
project (siliconchip.au/Article/5210). The latter article
states that alkaline cells can be recharged about 7-8 times
to 60% of the original capacity if you’re lucky, and zinc-
carbon cells around 3-5 times.
Touchscreen calibration varies
I contacted you recently about a 2.8-inch touchscreen
supplied in a kit that I thought was faulty. Upon building
the kit and powering it up, I got a display on the screen
but the touch function operated erratically. Swapping it
for another 2.8-inch touchscreen I got in a different kit
some time ago, it worked fine, making me think the first
screen was faulty.
When I asked about a replacement, you sent me an
e-mail suggesting that I try recalibrating the touch function with that screen. I followed your instructions and I
am glad to say everything is now working as it should.
After accessing the Micromite console, I was able to calibrate the screen successfully. As a long-time subscriber,
I appreciate you taking the time to provide me with the
detailed instructions necessary for ILI9341 screen calibration.
I have enjoyed and learned much from your publications
over the years. The projects that you publish, as well as
the “Vintage Radio” column, are of greatest interest to me.
Greg Evans, Illawong, NSW.
Comments: We’re glad you were able to get it to work.
Sometimes the touchscreens can have a faulty touch controller, in which case the touch doesn’t work at all, and we
have to replace them. But if the touch works erratically
or oddly, that’s usually a sign that calibration is required.
Unfortunately, it seems there are differences in the
screens that sometimes mean the standard calibration
works with one and not another. That’s despite them
apparently being made by the same manufacturer etc. It
might have to do with slight differences in how they are
assembled or the parts they are made from.
Small relays for Porsche electronic repairs
I run an electronic repair business in Perth, mainly fixing home theatre equipment, turntables, cassette players
and old-school stuff. Serviceman’s Log is the first section
of the magazine I read.
Regarding the item in February 2022 titled “Classically
unorthodox car parts” on Porsche 928 electronic module
repairs, I found some relays that would properly fit on his
PCB. I had a similar problem with the electric window
controller for my 1994 VW Golf; the relays were faulty. I
fixed it using these relays from RS Components (shown
adjacent): https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/automotiverelays/6995730/
They are surprisingly small for being 12V 30A SPDT
relays. I could mount the relays on the board and still get
the board to fit in the factory box. It does require some
hard-wiring with tinned copper wire. I hope this information will help D. T. of Sylvania with his Porsche repairs.
John Allen, Perth, WA.
ago, I purchased a Li-ion battery (nominally 12V) with
a capacity rating of 42,000mAh. Initially, I thought the
battery was equivalent to 42Ah and considered it a large
capacity battery in a relatively small package. But the
label attached to the base also states 155Wh.
So it seems that the mAh capacity is actually the sum
of the mAh capacities of the cells, not the actual mAh
capacity of the battery itself. The total charge capacity of
a battery with all cells connected in parallel indicates the
total lithium content.
The number of cells, their charge capacity, and the
battery’s configuration will determine the overall battery
voltage and charge delivery.
In simple batteries, this is a straightforward situation.
However, ‘batteries’ with non-standard voltages (different to multiples of cell voltage), like 5V USB or 230V AC
outputs, will contain internal electronics to produce these
output voltages. The actual (as measured) charge capacity
of such a ‘battery’ will now be altered.
Still, assuming 100% efficiency, the battery will have
the same energy capacity (Wh) regardless of its configuration or electronic conversions.
Considering the above, there is little wonder that the
general public can be confused about the charge capacity
of lithium-ion batteries.
Col Hodgson, Mount Elliot, NSW.
Response: you may be right that manufacturers are adding up the mAh/Ah rating of all the cells to get the mAh/
Ah rating they put on the battery. The problem is that
unless they are connecting all those cells in parallel, the
resulting rating is wrong.
Consider a battery with four 3Ah Li-ion cells in series.
Each cell has a nominal voltage of 3.7V, so the battery
has a nominal voltage of 14.8V. If the manufacturer labels
the battery as 14.8V and 12Ah, that suggests we can draw
1.2A from it for 10 hours, but it will be flat in under three
hours at that rate.
The example you give shows how much confusion such
incorrect ratings can cause. A 155Wh battery that’s nominally 12V can deliver at most 13Ah, not the 42Ah that
your label states.
We don’t think it’s a coincidence that this ‘confusion’
makes batteries sound like they have a much higher capacity than they actually do. The manufacturers know they
are misleading consumers. They do it because labelling
their products with misleading information makes them
sell better.
Misleading battery capacity ratings
Concerning the letter on “Misleading battery capacity
ratings” and your reply in the May 2022 issue, some time
6
Silicon Chip
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By the way, the watt-hours rating of a Li-ion battery is
also a pretty good indication of its lithium content.
A tale of three pots
The Ultra-Low Distortion Preamplifier with Tone Controls (March & April 2019; siliconchip.au/Series/333) was
something for which I had been waiting for some time.
I subsequently built the preamp and six-input switcher,
which operated trouble-free for about a year, but then it
started to make a crackling sound every time the motorised volume control pot operated.
I tried to source a replacement in Australia but could
not find any in stock. I had built a previous Silicon Chip
preamplifier from an Altronics kit that had a 25kW dualgang motorised potentiometer. I salvaged this one and used
it to replace the noisy pot. This second pot operated for
a while, but then I lost one of the stereo channels, which
I traced to a problem with the pot.
I eventually turned to the internet and found one on
eBay. It was rather expensive, but it seemed to be my only
option to keep a good preamplifier going. The pot was an
Alps RK27 Motor Potentiometer Double 5K from seller
“bsitgoods”. It looked the same as the one it was to replace,
so I ordered one, hoping it would fit the preamp PCB.
The pot turned up a month later and, of course, it was
not the same size as the original! It was longer, and the
only pins that matched the holes in the PCB were the
three pins of the front gang. After carefully determining
the location of the other pot pins and the copper tracks
on the PCB, I managed to drill holes to fit the new pot
without cutting any tracks (shown below).
The preamp is now back in operation and performing
well. I should add that the Alps pot is very well constructed with what appears to be a diecast housing for
the variable resistors.
David Hebblethwaite, Mapleton, Qld.
Comments: it’s a pity that sourcing motorised pots is
difficult, but they are specialised parts. We’re glad you
got the Alps pot working and that it seems to be of good
quality. We’re moving to digital volume control for future
remote-controlled preamps to solve this problem.
After some searching, we discovered that Bourns Pro
Audio has a 10kW dual-gang logarithmic motorised pot,
part code PRM162-K420K-103A1, which should be a more
direct replacement for the original part. It is not identical to the Alpha pots that Altronics used to sell, but it
looks very close.
We think it would fit the PCB with minor modifications (possibly by slightly enlarging the motor mounting
post holes).
Notably, the pinout of the pot part looks the same, and
the motor appears to be roughly the same size and in
roughly the same position, so hopefully, it won’t foul anything. Here is a potential source: siliconchip.au/link/abdh
Long-range digital TV reception
My TV automatically scans the channels periodically
and includes any new ones it may find. I recently looked
through the TV channels and was surprised to see some
in the channel list from a tower that’s a long way away
from me.
I am in Melbourne, and the TV had picked up channels
for Traralgon. The transmitter that services Traralgon is
on Mt Tassie, approximately 175km away.
I couldn’t get a video signal on those channels, so I
think that the TV scanned for new channels at a time
when atmospheric ducting was occurring; I might well
have been able to watch the video had I been using the
TV at the time.
This led me to discover the following web page where
people discuss long distance TV reception in Australia:
siliconchip.au/link/abf3
DX TV as a hobby used to be a ‘thing’ with analog TV,
but I wasn’t aware of it being practised or even possible
with digital TV.
Dr David Maddison, Toorak, Vic.
Comment: with a sufficiently good/directional TV antenna
with high gain and a masthead amplifier, the idea of receiving and decoding digital TV signals from 165km away
or further does not seem impossible. It would depend
on topography and, at that range, probably atmospheric
reflection. As you suggest, that can vary with atmospheric
conditions, including time of day.
Another SMD holding tool
I read with interest the letter regarding the clever SMD
holding tool by Peter Gee of Inglewood in the Mailbag
section of the May issue (page 10). It reminded me of the
tool I saw on this website: siliconchip.au/link/abf1
The original source seems to be here: siliconchip.au/
link/abf2
Arden Clare, Mid North Coast, NSW.
On power lines, electric cars and inverter generators
I noted the Editor’s comment about the twisted bundle
of power wires and their concern over insulation degradation. Almost thirty years ago, Energex replaced the
connection wires of most houses with a twisted pair. The
insulation appears to be the same and is withstanding the
elements very well.
In one of my earlier letters, I expressed my preference
for stored hydrogen. I’d like to add that it should be very
safe to place the storage cylinders at roof height. Leaking
hydrogen or vented hydrogen due to over-heating would
go upwards, unlike LPG, which pools.
On the same topic, I came across this ATCO article:
siliconchip.au/link/abez
ATCO intends to build hydrogen generation and refuelling stations for locomotives in Canada. That is a really
serious undertaking.
siliconchip.com.au
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Helping to put you in Control
N20K48 Modular Controller 230VAC
NOVUS, proudly releases our N20K48 controller family. Base
unit has universal input and relay and pulse output controller.
Program via USB or smartphone bluetooth. A selection of micro
modules can plug into the rear for additional I/O and comms.
SKU: NOC-340
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Silicon Chip
Earlier this year, you gave me advice on repairing a
blown SC200 amplifier module and problems with motorised potentiometers.
The transistors for the SC200 arrived within six days of
placing an order with Digi-Key, and the amplifier module
is now back in service.
I bought a 16mm 10kW dual-gang log pot from the local
Jaycar store and successfully transplanted the track wafer
assemblies into the faulty motorised pot shaft and body.
Unfortunately, I lost the 3mm C-clip that holds the plastic gear onto the pot shaft. It took 12 long weeks for an
eBay C-clip kit to arrive. Thankfully, the motorised pot
is now working again.
I have just finished building a Veroboard version of
the October 2021 Active Crossover de-thumping circuit
using 2N3906 and 2N3904 transistors. I used an 18V zener
instead of the 5V zener and a 10μF capacitor instead of the
47μF capacitor. This gives a switch-on delay of about five
seconds with a ±15V supply: no more massive switch-on
or switch-off thumps.
Dave Cole, Rotorua, New Zealand.
Planned obsolescence or programmed obsolescence?
Prices are subjected to change without notice.
10
Although I am not against EVs, I have previously
expressed serious reservations about the change to only
electric vehicles. I see many problems being pushed onto
an ignorant public. One of these is already occurring in
England. The following article concerns the overloading
of the electrical supply: siliconchip.au/link/abf0
With the distinct possibility of future blackouts of the
electrical system due to the closure of coal-fired power
stations and the charging of electric vehicles at night, I
bought a small petrol generator to keep my refrigerator
running if things get really bad. I also purchased a new
refrigerator with an inverter-type compressor, believing
it should have a soft start.
However, I thought I had made a mistake in buying my
generator. It was stated that it is an inverter type generator, but it did not occur to me that the output might be
pseudo-sinewave and not a true sinewave.
To make matters worse, in reading the comments on
some forums, it appears that certain inverter type refrigerators will not run from modified sinewave sources. If
the refrigerator inverter used simple rectification of the
mains power with storage capacitors, there should not be
a problem, but I suspect that is not the case.
To avoid the large current spikes that occur with simple
rectification, the power supply probably takes power from
over the whole of the mains sinewave. This is similar to
the ‘Active PFC’ used in many computer power supplies.
I made a capacitor-coupled resistive divider to safely
view the generator’s AC waveform on my CRO to resolve
this. The inverter proved to have a true sinewave output.
Bunnings had plenty of petrol generators ‘shouting’ that
they had sinewave inverters, but this $399 Ozito 2000W
unit just declared that it was an inverter type. That is so
strange in this age of over-the-top marketing.
George Ramsay, Holland Park, Qld.
Recently, my dishwasher stopped working. Since it
was built in, I decided to see if I could get it repaired
rather than try to find a replacement that would fit into
Australia's electronics magazine
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the cupboard space where the old one had resided.
I found a company online, and the guy duly turned
up and simply replaced the board with the control electronics. I asked him what had failed and why. He said his
knowledge wasn’t that detailed; he just checks the error
messages and almost always ends up changing the board.
Then he told me that one of his fellow service personnel was deep into electronics and had taken several of
the “failed” boards apart to see which components had
failed. He often could not find any that could be identified as the cause of the failure.
When a company rep came to give them a training
course in servicing the latest model machines, he raised
the issue with the guy. The rep replied that the machine
was guaranteed for a number of years, during which the
machine should have carried out a certain number of
washes. After enough cycles, the computer chip shuts
the machine down and refuses to work.
Similar control boards were also employed in their
clothes washing machines. So it was not planned obsolescence but programmed obsolescence.
Cliff J. King, Oxley, Qld.
Alternatives to subscription software
Regarding your editorial in the May issue, I wonder if
you are aware of the Affinity suite of applications from
Serif in the UK.
When Adobe suddenly switched to subscription software in 2012, a significant portion of their alleged 10 million user base (for Photoshop at least) refused to accept a
de facto “Adobe Tax”. In my case, doing so would have
doubled or tripled what I had been paying Adobe for
periodic upgrades.
Like many others, I stuck with Creative Suite version
6, which was perfectly serviceable, until something better came along. While there were some pretenders to
the throne, nothing that could be called ‘professional’
standard existed until Serif in the UK released Affinity
Designer, followed by Affinity Photo and finally, Affinity Publisher.
The first two are serious contenders for replacing Photoshop and Illustrator, while Affinity Publisher is not yet
mature enough to supersede InDesign for complex projects like magazines.
Serif started with a clean slate circa 2010 and built a
modern codebase common to all their applications. Hence,
they have the same user interface (UI), document model
and file format. The latter is a breath of fresh air after the
limitations of Adobe’s historically fractured code bases
and application-specific file formats.
I documented my experience with these new applications in two blog posts:
Starting the Gradual Move to Affinity: https://tdgq.com.
au/design-publish/starting-move-to-affinity/
Innovations to Like in the Affinity Apps: https://tdgq.
com.au/design-publish/innovations-to-like-in-affinityapps/
I realise that you may be more or less ‘locked in’ to
CorelDraw, but I thought I should let you know about
these apps in case you were not aware of them. They are
not subscription-based, and the cost is remarkably low
compared to Adobe’s equivalents.
Paul Howson, Warwick, Qld.
SC
12
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
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IC Fabrication
Image Source: GlobalFoundries Inc.
from inception to cutting-edge technology
Last month, we covered the invention and history of integrated circuits
(ICs) and the manufacturing process. Now we pick up where we left off,
discussing how transistor counts keep increasing and feature sizes get
smaller, culminating in the cutting-edge EUV technology.
Part 2 – shrinking nodes, EUV, components – By Dr David Maddison
T
he technology generation in the
semiconductor industry is referred
to as a ‘technology node’ or a ‘process node’. It is a length measurement
referring to the shortest transistor gate
that could be fabricated with that particular technology node. But that has
not been the case since about 1997,
according to https://en.wikichip.org/
wiki/technology_node
At about the 45nm technology node
(around 2007), Intel used gate lengths
14
Silicon Chip
of 25nm and no smaller, as undesirable
results occurred otherwise.
With the introduction of the 22nm
process in late 2011, Intel fundamentally changed the design of the transistor with the introduction of the fin
field-effect transistor (FinFET). This
provided a higher transistor density
without having to shrink the gate size.
Thus, the feature size somewhat lost
its meaning.
Confusingly, today the technology
Australia's electronics magazine
node referred to is more a marketing
term for new or improved fabrication
processes with no specific relation to
any physical feature size.
However, the International Technology Roadmap for Semiconductors
(ITRS) traditionally described the
technology node in relation to the halfpitch between the smallest spacing of
two metal conductors that could be
made with a given fabrication process
(see Fig.24).
siliconchip.com.au
The following process nodes are currently in use, depending upon a manufacturer’s capabilities and the devices
being fabricated: 180nm, 130nm,
90nm, 65nm, 45/40nm, 32/28nm,
22/20nm, 16/14nm, 10nm, 8/7nm,
5nm. At present, only Samsung, TSMC
(Taiwan Semiconductor Manufacturing Company) and Intel can use the
three smallest nodes. Table 1 shows
when each node was introduced.
Microprocessor transistor
count
A common measure of the complexity of a CPU (central processing unit)
or GPU (graphics processing unit) is
the transistor count on the die. The
transistors are usually Mosfets. The
highest transistor counts currently
for a variety of integrated circuits are
shown in Table 2.
The V-NAND (Vertical NOT-AND)
flash memory chip, also known as 3D
NAND by Samsung, is a 3D chip with
2000 billion transistors. This high
transistor count is achieved by using
many layers in the memory “stacks”.
For example, a 128Gib V-NAND
chip has 24 layers, and V-NAND chips
with up to 160 layers are under development. 500+ layers are anticipated
in the future. In 2019, Samsung had
a 1024GB flash chip made from eight
stacked 96-layer V-NAND chips; hence
the huge transistor count – see Fig.25.
We will discuss 3D chips further in the
final article in this series.
The Cerebras Systems Wafer Scale
Engine 2 (WSE-2), designed for artificial intelligence, is the largest chip
ever built, both by transistor count and
physical size – see Fig.27.
It contains 2.6 trillion transistors,
850,000 processor cores, has 40GB of
on-chip memory, uses the 7nm technology node by TSMC and has an area
of 46,225mm2 – that’s massive! A typical high-end processor is a bit larger
than a postage stamp, around 1/100th
that area.
Moore’s Law
The increase in IC component density with time has been observed to
scale according to “Moore’s Law”. It
is not a physical law but an observation reflecting improvements in technology and manufacturing processes.
Gordon Moore was one of the founders of Fairchild Semiconductor. In
1965, Moore observed that the number
of components on an integrated circuit
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.24: the traditional
method by which
technology nodes are
named, according to
the ITRS. Original
source: https://
en.wikichip.org/wiki/
File:tech_node.svg
(CC BY 3.0)
Fig.25: how 3D NAND flash memory works,
as distinct from 2D NAND. Original source:
Wikimedia user NVMdurance
Table 1 – process node introduction year
Node
Year
Model
10µm
1971
Intel 4004
6µm
1973
Toshiba TLCS-12
3µm
1976
Intel 8085
1.5µm
1982
Intel 80286
1µm
1985
Intel 80386
800nm
1988
Cypress CY7C601 | Motorola 68030 (1987)?
600nm
1992
PowerPC 601
350nm
1995
Intel Pentium P54CQS
250nm
1997
Intel Pentium Katmai
180nm
1999
Intel Pentium III (Coppermine)
130nm
2001
Fujitsu SPARC64 V
90nm
2004
PowerPC 970FX
65nm
2006
Intel Pentium 4 Cedar Mill
45nm
2007
Panasonic UniPhier
32nm
2009
Intel Sandy Bridge (2nd-gen Core)
22nm
2011
Intel Ivy Bridge (3rd-gen Core)
14nm
2012
Samsung FinFET 14LPE
10nm
2016
Samsung 10LPE | TSMC 10FF
7nm
2018
TSMC N7
5nm
2019
Samsung 5LPE
3nm
2022 (estimate)
2nm
2024 (estimate)
The years are mostly estimates for when nodes were first produced (we have primarily
focused on microprocessors rather than including other ICs such as DRAM). Outlier
examples include RCA’s CD4000 series which may have started 10μm production before
Intel’s 4004; there’s also the Intel 1103 which was an 8μm process in 1970.
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2022 15
Table 2 – highest present transistor counts for various ICs
Year
IC type
Model
# of transistors
2020
AI processor
Cerebras Wafer Scale Engine 2
2.6 trillion
2019
Flash memory
Samsung V-NAND
2 trillion
2022
Processor
Apple M1 Ultra
114 billion
2020
AI/deep learning Colossus Mk2 GC200
59.4 billion
2020
GPU
59 billion
Alderbaran MI250X
Table 3 – CPU transistor count over time
was doubling every year. In 1975, he
predicted that the number of components would double every two years
– see Table 3.
The second version of the law stayed
true until around 2010, when a slowdown in the component count increase
was observed. There is now a doubling
approximately every two and a half
years – see the full-page plot overleaf.
Ultimately, there is a physical limit
beyond which component density cannot increase. So improvements will
have to come through better computing algorithms and different electronic
architectures, such as optical computers or neural networks based on the
structure of the human brain (Fig.26).
Year
Model
Transistor count
Node
Area
1971
Intel 4004
2250
10μm
12mm2
1974
Motorola 6800
4100
6μm
16mm2
1974
Intel 8080
6000
6μm
20mm2
1975
MOS Tech. 6502
4528
8μm
21mm2
1979
Zilog Z8000
17,500
4μm(?)
35mm2(?)
1979
Intel 8088
29,000
3μm
33mm2
Silicon wafer size
1979
Motorola 68000
68,000
3.5μm
44mm2
Table 4 shows the evolution of standard silicon wafer size over the years
(also see Figs.28 & 29). The larger the
wafer, the more ICs can be made in
one pass, so the more economical and
cheaper the manufacturing process
becomes, at least to a point.
Standards have been established
for 450mm wafers (see the “Global
450 Consortium (G450C) Program”
at https://f450c.org/infographic/). But
there is resistance to the uptake of that
size due to the massive investment
in new equipment and the questionable economics of using this size. It
will probably be eventually adopted,
though.
1982
Intel 80286
134,000
1.5μm
49mm2
1989
Intel 80486
1,180,235
1μm
173mm2
1993
Intel Pentium
3,100,000
800nm
294mm2
1998
Intel Pentium II
7,500,000
250nm
113mm2
1999
Intel Pentium III
9,500,000
250nm
128mm2
2000
Intel Pentium 4
42,000,000
180nm
217mm2
2003
AMD K8
105,900,000
130nm
193mm2
2006
Intel Pentium D
362,000,000
65nm
162mm2
2008
Intel Core i7
731,000,000
45nm
263mm2
2010
IBM POWER7
1,200,000,000
45nm
567mm2
2013
IBM POWER8
4,200,000,000
22nm
650mm2
2013
Xbox One (AMD)
5,000,000,000
28nm
363mm2
2015
Oracle SPARC M7
10,000,000,000
20nm
400mm2(?)
2018
Apple A12X
10,000,000,000
7nm
122mm2
2019
AMD EPYC Rome
39,540,000,000
7nm + 12nm
1008mm2
2021
Apple M1 Max
57,000,000,000
5nm
~432mm2
2022
Apple M1 Ultra
114,000,000,000
5nm
~864mm2
Table 4 – largest silicon wafer diameter by year
Year
Diameter
Typical thickness
10×10mm dies per wafer
1960
25mm
?
2
1963
28mm
?
3
1969
50mm
275μm
9
1972
75mm
375μm
29
1976
100mm
525μm
56
1981
125mm
625μm
95
1983
150mm
675μm
144
1992
200mm
725μm
269
2002
300mm
775μm
640
Proposed
450mm
925μm
1490
Future
675mm
>1mm(?)
3427
16
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
Wavelength of light for
lithography
Over time, as the number of transistors on a chip has increased, lithography has required shorter and shorter
wavelengths of light to produce the
smaller IC feature sizes.
According to the major equipment
supplier, ASML (siliconchip.au/link/
abdu), their light sources changed over
time as follows:
• Early lithography systems used
mercury lamps to produce blue
light with a wavelength of 436nm,
enabling feature sizes of 1000nm
(1μm).
• UV light sources with a wavelength of 365nm allowed feature
sizes of 220nm.
• KrF excimer laser light sources
with a wavelength of 248nm
allowed feature sizes of 80nm.
• ArF excimer lasers with a wavelength of 193nm allowed feature
sizes of 38nm.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.27: the monster Cerebras Systems
Wafer Scale Engine 2 (WSE-2) chip,
the world’s largest integrated circuit
both by physical size and transistor
count.
Fig.26: one possible way to improve performance beyond Moore’s Law
and the physical limitations of semiconductors is using “neuromorphic”
architecture to emulate the human brain but implemented in silicon. This is
DANNA: Dynamic Adaptive Neural Network Arrays, a 2D grid representing
neurons or synapses of the brain with programmable connectivity between
them. Source: University of Tennessee (http://neuromorphic.eecs.utk.edu/
pages/research-overview/)
• Extreme UV (EUV) uses light at
13.5nm, allowing feature sizes of
around 3-7.5nm.
Extreme UV lithography
Traditionally, every new technology node decreased lineal feature
dimensions by 30%, thus reducing IC
area by 50% and power consumption
also dropped correspondingly. This
is known as Dennard or Mosfet Scaling. But this process has been slowing
since around 2006, and the increase in
transistor density has also not kept up
with Moore’s law.
As described last month, optical lithography has been moving to
smaller wavelengths in the drive to
smaller feature sizes.
The most advanced commercially-
made chips use extreme ultraviolet
(EUV) lithography. Currently, only
one company based in Veldhoven in
the Netherlands can make the required
machines: ASML (www.asml.com/
en/).
It took them 10 years and US$25
billion to develop EUV machines, and
siliconchip.com.au
they charge up to US$200 million per
machine. Despite this, there is a waiting list to purchase them. ASML has
sold about 140 EUV machines in the
last ten years.
This machine is so advanced that it
is regarded as strategically sensitive –
see siliconchip.au/link/abdw
These are among the most complicated machines ever manufactured.
Quoting from the article at siliconchip.
au/link/abdy:
• One EUV system contains 100,000
parts and weighs approximately
180 tonnes.
• An EUV system ships in 40 freight
containers, spread over 20 trucks
and three cargo planes.
• The mirrors used in EUV systems
are so flat that if one were to be
blown up to the size of Germany,
the biggest bump would be less
than 1mm high.
• An EUV system controls beams of
light so accurately that it is equivalent to shining a torch from the
Earth and hitting a 20 cent coin
on the moon.
Australia's electronics magazine
Fig.28: 2-inch (51mm), 4-inch
(100mm), 6-inch (150mm), and
8-inch (200mm) silicon wafers after
they have been ‘diffused’. Each die
visible on their surfaces will become
a separate device once the wafer is
sliced up. (GNU Free Documentation
License)
Fig.29: an Intel 300mm wafer with
VLSI (very large scale integration)
circuits fabricated onto it. The next
phase would be testing; then, it
would be cut up into individual dies
(chips), ready for packaging. Source:
Wikimedia user FxJ (public domain)
July 2022 17
18
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.30: this plot shows that “Moore’s Law”, the prediction that the IC transistor count
would double roughly every 18 months, was prescient. Source: https://ourworldindata.org/
uploads/2020/11/Transistor-Count-over-time.png (Max Roser, Hannah Ritchie, CC BY 4.0)
Computers were once
people!
Integrated circuit manufacturer business models
IC fabrication facilities or foundries are incredibly expensive to build and operate
and must be kept running at maximum capacity to pay their bills. This is one
of the reasons why some companies specialise in design while others provide
fabrication services only.
Some companies, known as integrated device manufacturers (IDMs), both
design and manufacture devices. Examples of such companies are IBM, Intel,
NEC, Samsung and Texas Instruments.
Other ‘fabless’ (and possibly also fabulous) companies only design devices
and get others to manufacture them. Examples include AMD (since 2008, when
they sold their fab to GlobalFoundries), Apple, ARM, Broadcom, Marvell, MediaTek,
Nvidia, Qualcomm and Xilinx.
“Pure play” companies only manufacture devices that fabless companies
design. Examples of pure play foundries include GlobalFoundries (headquartered
in New York with fabs in various locations including Germany, Singapore, United
States), TSMC (Taiwan) and UMC (Taiwan).
The term “computer” was
coined by English poet Richard
Brathwaite (1588-1673), who
published a book in 1613 called
“Yong Mans Gleanings”. He used
it to refer to a person who makes
calculations. He wrote:
I haue read the truest
computer of Times, and the best
Arithmetician that euer breathed,
and he reduceth thy dayes into a
short number: The daies of Man
are threescore and ten.
The unique mirrors in the EUV system are made of silicon and molybdenum, and are among the flattest in
the world.
Of course, a foundry needs more
than just EUV machines. They
need about 200 different large-scale
machines, and the workflow through
these has to be precisely coordinated.
A vast number of supplies, processes
and personnel work together to form
a huge operation.
ASML started as a subsidiary of
Philips in 1984. Christophe Fouquet,
its Executive Vice President, said
that their first lithography machine
“looked like a projector”. ASML is
more valuable than some of its customers, such as Intel. They have come a
long way from those early days.
Only five chipmakers can afford
to buy the most advanced machines.
Its customers include Intel, Samsung
and TSMC, who combined provided
more than 84% of its business in 2021.
There are thousands of chip foundries
worldwide, so most cannot make the
most advanced chips.
The TWINSCAN NXE3600D is
ASML’s most advanced EUV lithographic system and supports volume production at the 5nm and 3nm
nodes for both logic and DRAM. It uses
extreme UV of 13.5nm wavelength and
can expose 160 300mm wafers per
hour, with a maximum exposure field
of 26mm x 33mm (see Fig.31).
To produce the EUV light, a CO2
laser is fired into droplets of tin that
vaporise and emit EUV light. The UV
wavelength of 13.5nm is almost in the
X-ray range. X-rays have a wavelength
from 0.01nm to 10nm. The numerical
aperture (see later) of the optics is 0.33.
High-NA EUV
A machine under development by
ASML is the high-NA EUV machine
which is expected to cost US$300 million. The numerical aperture (NA) is
increased from 0.33 in the machines
mentioned above to 0.55. These
machines will be capable of producing both logic and memory chips in
the 2nm technology node – see Fig.32.
This machine is expected to be
available from late 2023 for R&D customers and 2025 for volume manufacturers.
Last month, we discussed multiple patterning and other lithographic
techniques to achieve a smaller feature
size. Foundries have to decide whether
to continue with complicated multiple
patterning with non-EUV lithography,
or move to EUV lithography with simpler single-patterning.
Reticle
Optical Column
Vacuum Chamber
Wafer Handler
Light Source
Fig.31: part of an extreme UV (EUV) lithography machine from ASML with the covers removed, showing the optical
path in purple. This image does not give credit to the size and complexity of the machine; it is roughly the size of a
locomotive. Source: ASML
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2022 19
Fig.32: ASML’s High-NA machine, which should allow even
smaller feature sizes to be achieved, enabling the 2nm node.
Wafer Stocker
To support optimized FF thoroughput
Mask Stage
4x increase in acceleration
Lens & Illuminator
•
NA 0.55 for high contract
•
High transmission
Horizontal Source (improved transmission)
Compatible with future 0.33 NA sources,
power improvements over time
Improved Methodology
2~3x improvement in overlay/focus
Wafer Stage
2x increase in acceleration
Components on ICs
Cooling Hood
Mitigate wafer heating
New Frames
Improved thermal and dynamic
control with larger optics
Now that we’ve fully described
how IC dies (also pluralised as dice)
are made, let’s look at what they can
contain. Apart from transistors and
diodes, various other components
can be fabricated onto integrated circuits. We will cover some common
ones here but cannot possibly cover
all existing types.
While most of our readers will know
how diodes and transistors work, especially if they have read our articles on
the History of Transistors in the March,
April & May issues (siliconchip.com.
au/Series/378), we’ll start with a quick
refresher.
current to flow in one direction but
not the other.
As shown in Fig.33, with a reverse-
biased voltage between the P-doped
and N-doped semiconductor material,
a depletion region at their junction prevents current from flowing.
However, if the voltage is reversed
and the device becomes forward
biased, as in Fig.34, the depletion zone
shrinks until current can flow between
the terminals.
A P-N junction can be formed in
one layer of an IC by doping different
areas with P-type and N-type dopants
or between differently-doped layers in
contact above and below.
Diodes
Transistors
The simplest semiconductor device
is the diode. It consists of adjoined
areas of P-type and N-type semiconductors. It has the property of allowing
A bipolar transistor can be constructed similarly to a diode in an
IC but with an extra junction, forming P-N-P or N-P-N connections – see
Fig.33: the depletion zone at the junction of P-doped and
N-doped semiconductor material in a diode widens when a
reverse bias voltage is applied. This blocks current flow.
20
Silicon Chip
Fig.35. The emitter is usually doped
more heavily than the collector, so
those two P or N doped areas are typically created in separate steps.
Mosfets are, in a sense, even simpler than bipolar transistors, needing
just one type of doped semiconductor (P-type or N-type, depending on
whether it’s a P-channel or N-channel
Mosfet). The metal or semiconductor
gate area is separated from the channel
by a very thin insulating layer (usually
silicon dioxide) – see Fig.36.
The relative simplicity, straightforward biasing requirement and fast
switching speeds are why Mosfets
are almost exclusively used in digital circuits.
JFETs are made similarly to Mosfets, but they do not need the insulating layer since the gate is differently-
doped silicon, forming a diode junction that is normally reverse-biased
Fig.34: with the bias voltage reversed, the diode is forwardbiased. The depletion zone essentially disappears and
current can flow freely, with a small voltage drop.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.35: a bipolar
transistor can be
formed by joining three
differently doped areas of
semiconductor material,
either N-P-N or P-N-P.
While the collector (top)
and emitter (bottom)
use similar material, the
emitter is more heavily
doped than the collector.
Fig.36: Mosfets in ICs are usually 3D structures, but the
general principle is the same as this 2D example; the
electric field from the gate electrode influences current flow
in the channel, between source and drain.
Fig.37: an example of a diffused resistor within an IC. In
this case, the resistor is diffused P-type material isolated
from the substrate by an N-type material layer and covered
with an insulating SiO2 layer. It is connected externally via
terminals labelled 1 and 2.
and hence does not conduct. JFETs
are often used in audio ICs as they are
low-noise, high-impedance devices.
Resistors
A resistor is fabricated on an integrated circuit utilising the resistivity
of a volume of doped semiconductor
or layers of a resistive material – see
Fig.37. Resistance values from ohms
to kilohms can be produced with a tolerance of about 5% to 20%.
Some ICs need higher precision
resistors than this (eg, instrumentation
amplifiers). They typically use lasertrimmed thin film resistors (more on
that below), measuring the resistor’s
actual value and adjusting it to achieve
the required precision.
The resistance can be controlled by
several methods such as:
1. A diffusion layer designed to have
a particular resistivity. The length,
width, diffusion depth and concentration of the layer determine the
resistance. Only relatively low resistance values can be produced by this
method, but they can be produced at
the same time as transistors, so it is
economical and common.
Higher resistances can be produced
by a zig-zag pattern in the diffusion
region. Poly-silicon can also be used
to create resistors.
2. An epitaxial resistor, used for
higher resistance values, is made by
depositing a layer on top of the substrate between two metal contacts.
3. A pinched resistor, where the
cross-section of a diffused resistor is
reduced to increase the resistance.
4. A thin film resistor is fabricated
by depositing a resistive substance like
Nichrome on the semiconductor substrate, making contact with it. Advantages include good high-frequency
Fig.38: metal-insulator-metal (MIM) capacitor is built
from layers of conductive metals and an insulating
dielectric.
siliconchip.com.au
performance; the value can be adjusted
by laser trimming; and a low tempco
(temperature coefficient), meaning
good stability. A disadvantage is additional processing steps.
Capacitor
There are several ways to make
a capacitor in an integrated circuit.
Some standard methods are as follows.
1. The most common capacitor is
the MIM or metal-insulator-metal
capacitor. It consists of two metal
layers with a dielectric layer between
them – see Fig.38. They require more
process steps than some others to
produce.
2. A similar capacitor to the MIM
type is the MOM or metal-oxide-metal
capacitor (Fig.39). It uses interdigitated electrodes, like two interlocking sets of fingers. The capacitance
Fig.39: a metal-oxide-metal (MOM) capacitor can be
fabricated in one plane (left) or multiple planes for higher
capacitance in a similar area (right).
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2022 21
Fig.40: a trench capacitor in silicon. This example is a cross-section of a DRAM
memory cell using 3D stack technology. The state of each bit in a DRAM
memory chip is retained using a capacitor like this. The capacitor here is a
polysilicon plate trench type. Original source: Wikimedia user Cepheiden (CC
BY-SA 2.0 DE)
is created by a dielectric between the
fingers, but it can also have multiple
layers, so there is capacitance in the
vertical direction.
The dielectric material is the oxide
used in the processing of the IC, so
they are typically cheaper and easier
to make than MIM devices.
3. A trench capacitor is another way
to implement a capacitor in an IC for
use in memory devices, as shown in
Fig.40.
4. Capacitors in ICs can utilise the
properties of a P-N junction, as in
diodes, transistors and other semiconductor devices. These are called junction capacitors because such junctions
have capacitance.
A junction capacitor is a reverse-
biased P-N junction that can be formed
simultaneously with transistors in the
fabrication process. It comprises either
the collector-base or emitter-base part
of a transistor – see Fig.41. The capacitance is proportional to the junction
area and inversely proportional to the
thickness of the depletion region.
The depletion region occurs at the
site of the actual P-N junction. The
capacitance is also voltage-dependent,
so these capacitors can be used like
varicaps.
Inductors
Inductors are a challenging component to include in an integrated
circuit. Firstly, chips don’t usually
contain suitable core material. However, there are cases where magnetic
materials such as ferrite can be deposited during the fabrication process
(see Fig.42).
Also, the limited space available
makes for a small coil or spiral size
and consequently, low values for both
inductance and the quality factor or Q.
Additional problems include the
large chip area taken; the self-resonant
frequency is affected by stray capacitance, but it can still be in the GHz
range. On-chip inductors are not compatible with all fabrication processes.
Coils or spirals on chips are typically 2D (see Figs.43-45), but bond
Fig.43: a die micrograph of a planar
spiral inductor on a silicon chip.
Source: Michael S. McCorquodale
et al. (www.researchgate.net/
publication/224169588_A_Silicon_
Die_as_a_Frequency_Source)
wires can be used to make a pseudo-3D
coil, as shown in Fig.47.
Other devices (MEMS)
Devices such as force sensors, gyroscopes and other sensors can be built
into ICs using MEMS technology
(micro electromechanical systems).
For more details, see the Silicon Chip
article on MEMS devices (November
2020; siliconchip.au/Article/14635).
Connecting the chip to the
outside world
Traditionally, the chip is connected
to a pre-fabricated ‘lead frame’. Connections are made from exposed metal
areas on the die to those leads, usually
via ‘bond wires’. Both the chip and
lead frame are then encapsulated in
plastic (or sometimes in a metal can,
or even not at all).
The bond wires that connect the
silicon die (chip) to the package leads
have traditionally been made of gold.
Other possible materials are aluminium, copper and silver.
200μm
200μm
Ferrite film
(c)
Coils
Fig.41: this shows how a P-N junction can be
used as a junction capacitor. The capacitor
terminals are labelled 1 & 2.
22
Silicon Chip
(a) (b)
4μm
Fig.42: an on-chip inductor, without and with ferrite film, to act as the
magnetic core. Source: https://doi.org/10.1155/2013/832401 (CC BY 3.0)
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.44: an annotated image of a chip that operates on the
2.4GHz ISM frequency band, showing on-chip inductors.
Image source: H. Jhon et al. (https://ieeexplore.ieee.org/
document/4336140)
Fig.45: a chip designed to operate at 390GHz, including
tiny inductors. There are at least 14 inductor/transformer
pairs in the section labelled “PA+Multiplier”. This die is
about 2mm x 1mm. Source: A. Standaert et al. (https://
ieeexplore.ieee.org/document/9056947)
Gold is now more expensive than
ever, so copper is used for many
bond-wire applications today. Still, it
requires extra precautions such as an
oxygen-free atmosphere to ensure the
copper does not oxidise. Extra-highpurity copper is used as the hardness
of regular copper is too high. As a lowcost alternative to gold, aluminium can
also be used for wire bonding.
Ball bonding is a variation of wire
bonding. It is a process used to bond
gold and copper wires with a combination of heat, ultrasonic energy and
pressure. For aluminium wedge bonding, ultrasonic energy and pressure
fuse the aluminium wires to aluminium pads (see Fig.46).
Controlled collapse chip connection (C4) or ‘flip chip’ (see Figs.48 &
49) is another way a silicon die can
be connected to other devices or a
carrier package. Solder bumps are
deposited onto the die, then the die
is turned upside-down (hence “flip
chip”) and aligned to corresponding
‘lands’ (pads). Heat is then applied to
flow the joints.
There are now also technologies
that reduce the size of, or eliminate
the need for solder bumps altogether.
These are important for multi-chip
module/chiplet technology, to be discussed next month.
The carrier package to which the
die is bonded typically is attached to
a PCB via a ball grid array (BGA) – see
Figs.49 & 50. With a BGA package, the
entire area of the carrier package can
be covered with connectors, not just
along the edges as in more traditional
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.46: this image shows a chip where aluminium wedge bonding has been
used to attach the leads to the chip. Source: Australian National Fabrication
Facility, Queensland Node (https://anff-q.org.au/wire-die-bonding-technicalseminar/alu-wedge-bonding-on-chip/)
Fig.47: a model of an inductor made on an IC with bond wires. Source: JongWan Kim et al. (www.mdpi.com/1424-8220/7/8/1387/htm – Open Access)
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2022 23
Fig.48: controlled collapse chip connection (C4). Original Source:
Wikimedia user Twisp (public domain)
Fig.49: an Intel Celeron CPU with the silicon die attached to the
carrier via C4 bonding. The carrier is BGA soldered to the circuit
board. Source: Wikimedia user Alecv (CC BY-SA 3.0)
packages like dual in-line or quad
flat-pack.
Once the IC has been connected
to the lead frame, a ceramic or plastic layer is often added to protect the
die, leaving only the ends of the leads
exposed. Plastic packages are now
almost ubiquitous because they cost
less than ceramic but still offer excellent protection. The plastic used is
typically epoxy-cresol-novolak (ECN),
as it is strong with very good heat and
moisture resistance.
The main advantage of ceramic
packages is better heat dissipation;
they act less like a heat insulator than
plastic.
In some very low-cost devices like
calculators, rather than packaging
the silicon die, it is glued to the PCB
and bond wires are added to connect
it directly to PCB tracks. For protection, a blob of molten plastic (possibly
ECN) is deposited on top. This can be
cheaper than packaging each individual IC for devices produced in very
large numbers.
Early IC packaging
The first ICs, such as Fairchild’s
Micrologic range, were housed in
modified cylindrical transistor cans
with extra leads added. This was not
an efficient way to utilise space on
PCBs.
Then, in 1962, Yung Tao at Texas
Instruments invented a 10-lead
6.4×3.2mm (1/4in x 1/8in) “flat pack”
(Fig.51) to better utilise available
space for aerospace equipment. These
packages were derivatives of existing
designs. Integrated circuits are still
available in similar packages.
That was followed by the development in 1965 of the ceramic dual
in-line package by Don Forbes, Rex
Rice and Bryant (“Buck”) Rogers at
Fairchild Semiconductor. This is the
familiar package with rows of pins
on each side of a rectangular body,
the pins being 0.1in (2.54mm) centre-
to-centre and bending by 90° to meet
the PCB.
These dual-inline packages (DIP)
revolutionised computer and circuit
board manufacturing because they
simplified the layout and enabled
automatic insertion. This package type
is still in common use, but its use has
diminished this century due to the
increasing use of surface-mounting
packages, which do not require holes
to be drilled in the PCB and can be
soldered on both sides.
Australian microchip
fabrication
There has been a surprising amount
of semiconductor device manufacturing in Australia.
A Philips factory opened in Hendon,
South Australia, in 1947 (siliconchip.
au/link/abdz), and IC manufacture
started there in 1970. That business
became known as Integrated Electronic Solutions Pty Ltd in 1997, then
changed its name to Hendon Semiconductors Pty Ltd in 2007 (visit www.
hendonsemiconductors.com.au).
They no longer fabricate ICs but currently manufacture thick-film hybrid
devices and provide other design and
manufacturing services.
In 1965 (some sources state 1964),
Fairchild Semiconductor established
a facility in Croydon, Victoria, to manufacture transistors and diodes and
later, make ICs in ceramic dual in-line
packages (an advert from Fairchild has
been reproduced in Fig.52). Like most
Australian electronic manufacturing,
it closed in 1973 in part due to a cut in
tariffs on imported electronic components. However, parts of it were spun
off into Hybrid Electronics Australia
which was still operating until a few
years ago.
Security of mask designs
The security of IC mask design files has to be considered. They are possibly
vulnerable to viruses if appropriate precautions are not taken and malicious
parties are able to modify them.
Quoting from the article at siliconchip.au/link/abeb:
The possibility that an undetected piece of binary code can be inserted within
an OASIS file with no restrictions on its size or its content, indicates an undeniable
vulnerability to viruses, trojans and worms...there are already some cases where
viruses have been propagated through pure data files because of lax security on
the part of users.
This could enable a hostile state actor to insert features into ICs to enable acts
of espionage. There have been rumours that this may have already happened,
but there is no confirmation as far as we know. For more information, see
the research presentation PDF “Stealthy Dopant-Level Hardware Trojans” at
siliconchip.au/link/abec
24
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
Fig.50: a BGA footprint on a PCB after
removal of an IC. Source: Wikimedia
user Janke (CC BY-SA 3.0)
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.51: flat pack integrated circuits used in the Apollo guidance computer. This
demonstrates that SMD packages have been around for a while! Source: NASA
(public domain)
Fig.52: a Fairchild Semiconductor advertisement for dual in-line package ICs
from Electronics magazine, 13th of December 1965.
AWA produced several devices at
their factory in Rydalmere, NSW, but
that facility was taken over by Philips
in 1970 and closed.
Silanna Group (https://silanna.
com/) was founded in 2006 and is said
to be Australia’s only semiconductor
design and manufacturing company.
To quote Silanna:
With its head office in Brisbane and
additional operational, manufacturing and design centres in Sydney,
USA, UK and Singapore, Silanna supplies high-technology microelectronic
chips to the global communications,
space, defence and medical markets.
The company’s silicon-on-sapphire
radio-frequency antenna switch, for
example, is used extensively in smart
phones and space satellites, and in
NASA’s Mars rovers.
Unfortunately, Silanna did not
respond to our request for more information about their activities in Australia.
The Australian National Fabrication Facility (www.anff.org.au) was
founded in 2007 “to provide access
to micro and nanofabrication equipment, essential to Australia’s scientific future” … “and now represents
an investment of more than $400m in
research infrastructure made by Commonwealth and State Governments, as
well as partner organisations”.
The ANFF has 500 pieces of fabrication equipment for micro- and
nano-scale devices over 20 sites. They
employ 100 experts and help about
3000 users with various fabrication
projects each year.
For further information about transistor and integrated circuit manufacturing in Australia, refer to the article
by Bernie O’Shannassy at siliconchip.
au/link/abe0 – the rest of that website
is also excellent.
You can view an ABC Australia
Four Corners program from the 25th
of January, 1968, about the “computer
age” and concerns about losing jobs to
computers (online at https://youtu.be/
qKKMTm-ixZE).
The Australian Computer Museum
Society (ACMS) Sydney has a website
at https://acms.org.au/
There is also the Museum of Computing History in Melbourne; website
at siliconchip.au/link/abe1
Australia’s first homegrown stored
memory computer, the fourth in the
world, and the oldest surviving computer is CSIRAC in Melbourne, see
siliconchip.au/link/abe2
The HP Computer Museum in Melbourne is unfortunately not open to
the public, but you can see their website at www.hpmuseum.net/index.php
Coming up
The third and final article in this
series next month will concentrate
on the current state-of-the-art in integrated circuits, which is multi-chip
modules. That is where multiple silicon dies are joined together in a single
package to effectively form one very
large ‘chip’. This allows for much more
powerful devices, increases yields
(reducing prices) and adds a lot of
flexibility to manufacturing.
Interesting links
It is actually possible to “see” current flow in an integrated circuit die by observing its operation with an electron
microscope. This technique is called voltage contrast. This is demonstrated in the first three points below:
● “Voltage Contrast in the Scanning Electron Microscope - Cambridge Instruments/BT” https://youtu.be/
NYyOphvd8eQ
● “Viewing an active electronic circuit with a scanning electron microscope” https://youtu.be/eoRVEw5gL8c
● Using the voltage contrast technique to see active electrical lines in a chip (PDF): siliconchip.au/link/abed
● “Zoom Into a Microchip (Narrated)” https://youtu.be/Knd-U-avG0c
● “Zoom in on the chip in your smartphone” https://youtu.be/2z9qme_ygRI
● “Catching a single Transistor - We’re looking inside the i9-9900K” https://youtu.be/WOZqoTuAGKY
● An excellent tour of one of Intel’s most advanced fabs (but highly censored): https://youtu.be/2ehSCWoaOqQ
● Here’s a fascinating YouTube channel about home-made ICs: www.youtube.com/c/SamZeloof
● The Computer History Museum in California (https://computerhistory.org/) contains much of the collection of the
now-closed Computer Museum that was in Boston. There’s also the Intel Museum in Santa Clara, California; see
siliconchip.au/link/abee
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2022 25
Can you work out the circuit of a fabricated chip by looking at it?
Supposing you were prepared to put a tremendous amount
of work into ‘reverse engineer’ a chip, could you do it?
According to Ken Shirriff, who does it as a hobby, you can,
at least for older chips (his blog can be found at www.
righto.com). He has developed his own methodology – see
the video titled “Reading Silicon: How to Reverse Engineer
Integrated Circuits” at https://youtu.be/aHx-XUA6f9g
Using his techniques, Ken even managed to solve the
mystery of how, in 1974, Sir Clive Sinclair took a simple fourfunction calculator chip from Texas Instruments, shown in
Figs.53 & 54, and reprogrammed it to perform scientific
calculations. The competing calculator, the HP-35, used
five complex chips to do the same operations.
Texas Instruments staff were amazed. It was the first
affordable scientific calculator. See the story at siliconchip.
au/link/abe3
The techniques shown would not likely work in modern
high-density CPUs and GPUs because the feature size is
much smaller than the wavelength of visible light, so you
would not be able to resolve the features with a light-based
microscope. An electron microscope would be another
story, but how many people have one of those lying around?
Also, modern chips have many more layers. The lower
layers would not be visible, not to mention the staggering
amount of work trying to work out what the billions of
transistors and other components did.
You can download many die photos for analysis from the
following websites:
● https://zeptobars.com/en/
● http://visual6502.org/
● http://www.siliconpr0n.org/
You can see an extraordinary simulation of what happens
inside a MOS Technology 6502 processor as it is executing
code at http://visual6502.org/JSSim/index.html
Also see the video titled “Reverse Engineering a simple
CMOS chip” at https://youtu.be/FMdYuGpPicw
Ken Shirriff has also reverse-engineered the 555 timer
chip, said to be the world’s most popular IC, with billions
of copies sold. He has identified the chip’s functional
elements, as shown in Figs.55 & 56. He has also created
an interactive explorer where you can click on parts of the
chip, and the corresponding part of the circuit is highlighted.
See siliconchip.au/link/abe4
Another example is when AMD reverse engineered Intel’s
80386 CPU to create the Am386 line, which was marketed
SC
as being 100% compatible with Intel’s processor.
Comparator
Current
mirrors
Discharge
transistor
Voltage divider
Output
driver
Flip flop
Comparator
Fig.53: a labelled image of the TMS0805 chip used in the
1974 Sinclair Scientific Calculator. The mask was used
to reverse-engineer the chip and its instruction code.
Source: Ken Shirriff
Metal lines
Fig.54: a small portion of
the instruction ROM of the
TMS0805 chip used in the
1974 Sinclair Scientific
Calculator, showing how
the presence or absence of
transistors stores individual
bits. Ken Shirriff used this
imagery to determine the
brilliant code the calculator
ran. Source: Ken Shirriff
26
Silicon Chip
Transistors
Silicon lines
Figs.55 & 56: the functional blocks of an LMC555 chip,
as determined by Ken Shirriff, and the corresponding
internal circuit diagram (above).
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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Superb quality ratchet driver with a wide selection of
bits for most electronic jobs. Includes both a 1/4”
adjustable angle (<90°) ratchet handle and a smaller
4mm ratchet handle. Great for the home handyman or
enthusiast.
SAVE 22%
SAVE 23%
Touch Control Home
Automation with Arduino.
Utilises the same powerful ARM CPU found
in the Arduino Due, this 2.8” touchscreen
wallplate is great for creating custom home
automation projects based on Arduino. Use it
to control heating, trigger garage doors, blinds,
reticulation and more!
S 1146
2 For
$
15
USB SNES style controllers
Perfect for Retro-Pi gaming console
projects.
27
$
H 8953
Retro Gaming Case For Pi 4
The ultimate game console style case for
any Retro Pi gaming project! Easy access
to ports with internal fan to keep everything
running cool while you game.
Your one-stop electronics shop since 1976. | Order online at altronics.com.au
Portable Power
Made Easy.
New Anderson Style
Connection Panels
4 USB
charging
ports
80W mains
output
N 0704A 10W
N 0706A 15W
SAVE $10
SAVE $10
49
$
Reading
Light
USB C PD
P 7783
14.95
$
Anderson Style Surface Socket
Includes SB50 style connector and crimp
lugs. Size: 80x50x65mm.
Dual
LED
Torch
69
$
SAVE $60
209
$
GREAT FOR:
• Motorbikes
• Caravans
• Boats
• Jet Skis & more!
Solar Battery Charger/Maintainers
M 8197
P 7784
2 x Anderson Style Surface Socket
Carry 240V Power Anywhere!
This air travel friendly portable power generator is fitted with
6Ah battery bank, 80W 240V mains inverter, 18W power
delivery USB C charger & QC3.0 USB charger. Offers you cable
free power for both AC and DC appliances! Recharge by USB or
included power adaptor.
These compact solar panels are designed for keeping your vehicle batteries
topped up when parked. Easy croc clip or car accessory plug connection.
Can even be permanently installed outdoors. 10W: 377L x 212W x 17D mm.
15W: 40L x 343W x 17Dmm.
1299
1499
SAVE $46
$
99
SL4580W 135AH
189
$
M 8534A
6/12V 4.5A
M 8536A
12V 10A
Now suits
LiFePo4, lead acid
& calcium type
batteries!
Each model utilises a microprocessor to ensure your
battery is maintained in tip-top condition whenever you need it. Helps
to extend battery service life. Suitable for permanent connection. Great
for caravans & seldom used vehicles. Weatherproof casing.
34
$
Powerhouse® LiFePO4 Slimline Lithium Batteries
P 7786
Anderson Style & Car Acc. Socket
SAVE
20%
Powerhouse®
Watt Meter 130A
P 7787
Don’t get a
h
caught wit y!
flat batterwer
Know your po
usage.
SAVE 23%
5
$ /m
W 4154
20
$
P 8067 Side Mounts
39
$
Popular red and
black cable.
Tinned copper.
P 8069 55cm End Mounts
2pcs.
ABS ‘No Drill’ Solar Panel Mounts
SAVE $10
30A 10 Metre
Handy Hook
Up Reels
W 2426 Red
W 2427 Black
43
$
M 8636A
24.95
$
Includes SB50 style connector, crimp lugs
and car accessory socket connection.
Size: 80x50x110mm.
Corner Mounts
P 8073
Space at a premium in your camper, caravan or 4WD? These compact batteries are
perfect for remote power solutions without taking up precious cargo space for your
gear. Pre-fitted with Anderson input and output connections and handy LCD battery
capacity gauge. 100Ah: 600x275x65mm. 135Ah: 750x240x65mm.
Perfect for measuring
input and output currents
and wattage from solar
panels or batteries. This
meter accurately measures
DC power usage. Display
measures volts, watts and
amps in real-time. Peak
current 200A.
19.95
$
SAVE $80
$
5 Year Warranty
Rated up to 20A
this handy 12AWG
cable is ideal for
automotive power
cabling.
2 x Anderson
Style Panel
Socket
P 7785
SL4576W 100Ah
Multi-Stage Vehicle Battery Chargers
High Current
Twin Flex
Figure 8 Cable
Includes two SB50 style connector and
crimp lugs. Size: 80x50x110mm.
Includes two SB50
style connector
and crimp lugs.
Cutout: 40x40mm.
$
Ultra slim h
wit
65mm case t
full curren
discharge
capability.
19.95
$
34.95
$
Anderson Style, Car Acc. Socket &
USB Charging Panel
Includes SB50 style connector, crimp lugs
car accessory socket connection & dual
USB charger. Size: 80x50x140mm.
These tough surface mount brackets offer a way to mount solar panels
without penetrating the roof of the caravan or boat. They can be
attached using a silastic or similar adhesive.
.95
SAVE 14%
29
$
Figure 8 Handy
Hook Up Roll
10 metres of white/
red auto hook up cable.
Rated to 7.5A current.
NEW!
17.50
$
19.95
$
P 7811
Anderson Style & Car Acc. Panel
WH2124
A handy connection for 4WD & campers.
60Wx75Hx42Dmm. Cutout: 40 x 61.5mm.
Order online at altronics.com.au | Sale pricing ends July 31st
Upgrade your tool kit.
SAVE 24% T 2487A 50W Adjustable Temp.
Vacuum
Desoldering
Station
Designed to desolder
through hole componentry,
removing molten solder
quickly and easily
from solder pads and
components. In-handle
reservoir is easily removed
and cleaned. Includes three
desoldering tip, nozzle
cleaner and filter pads.
160°-480°C.
SAVE $56
T 2065
Desolder
parts in
seconds!
199
30
$
SAVE 15%
T 2483 80W
22
$
SAVE 22%
T 2445 30W
15
$
SAVE 20%
T 2440 60W
22
$
ement spares
Affordable quality backed by a full range of replac
$
by Altronics.
Micron® Handheld Mains Soldering Irons
An iron for every occasion! T 2440 and T 2445 are ideal for general purpose soldering. T 2483 is a
heavy duty chisel iron for tinning large cable, terminals and joins.
SAVE $16
99
$
D 3011
SAVE 15%
SAVE 20%
80
39
$
Q 1090
9999 Count
True RMS Multimeter
With in-built AC mains detection.
Featuring a striking easy to read reverse
backlit screen and a massive 9999
count readout. Auto ranging with easy
push button operation.
19999
COUNT
LCD!
$
Q 1070A
True RMS
20 Range Multimeter
Price breakthrough for a True RMS
multimeter! Packed with handy features like a 60MHz frequency counter,
capacitance, non contact voltage detection, even a torch!
SAVE $20
T 1297
Swing Arm Benchtop
Fume Extractor
69
$
Power Over Ethernet
Connection Integrity Checker
Whisk away irritating solder
fumes instantly as you work. The
replaceable active carbon filter
absorbs fumes for a cleaner
work environment. Includes
100mm ducting adaptor. Easily
screw clamps to your work
bench.
Allows you to test the condition of 802.3af/at standard
and non-standard PoE cabling/ports on PoE equipment.
Tests for power supply voltage, polarity and crossover
mode & displays power consumption of devices. It also
allows loopback testing to the PoE switch.
SAVE $30
69
$
SAVE 33%
D 3020
SAVE 18%
45
40
$
Zip Up Precision Tool Set
T 2152
A combination of spring loaded pliers/cutters and
ferrule top screw drivers in a tough folding carry case.
Perfect for servicing in the field.
$
Field Service Anti-Static Mat
T 4030
Great for use on the work bench or out in the field.
Measures 600 x 650mm and provides static protection
while you work. Ideal for PC building.
T 2356
19.95
SAVE $19
$
70
$
Q 1135
19999 Count
True RMS Multimeter
Extended resolution to 4 digits! Offers
everything the serious enthusiast could
need with auto ranging, min/max/rel
modes, frequency, duty cycle and non
contact voltage detection.
T 2282
SAVE 28%
Combination LAN Tester
& Multimeter
An all in one space saver for technicians.
Includes an auto ranging DMM, plus
UTP cable integrity checker & remote
terminator - ideal for both patch cables
and building wiring.
15.95
$
9
$ .95
Work bench
must have!
T 4018
Magnetic Bowl
A handy 4” stainless steel
bowl with magnetic base
to keep screws from straying while you work
Rotating PCB Holder
A must have for the electronics enthusiast! Work
on boards up to 200 x 140mm. Metal base
provides a sturdy work platform for soldering.
The Pocket Hero is here!
This nifty 12 in 1 pocket saviour
helps you fix life’s little problems!
Includes belt pouch.
Your one-stop electronics shop since 1976. | Order online at altronics.com.au
3D Printing & More.
Creality® LD-002R
Resin 3D Printer
SAVE $300
1069
Affordable entry level resin
printer for fast, strong &
smooth prints.
$
K 8604
Resin based 3D printers are rapidly
becoming the go to tool for high
resolution 3D prints. They offer a faster
print process with excellent accuracy and
a stronger finished product thanks to UV
curing on each layer. The LD-002R can
print objects up to 120 x 65 x 165mm.
It is capable of printing up 20-30mm
per hour, making it much faster than
traditional FDM 3D filament printers.
20 ONLY AT THIS PRICE
Everything a
maker space
needs in one
compact unit!
SAVE $100
n
n
n
n
n
n
369
$
K 8620
K 8630
Creality® CP-01
3D Printer / CNC Router / Laser Engraver
The ultimate do-it-all maker machine for the workbench. Create amazing
prototypes and one off designs with this all in one mini home factory.
Includes three interchangeable machine heads for cutting, etching and printing
each with excellent accuracy. Easily assembled from flat-pack in just a few minutes.
Router & engraver suitable for plastics, wood, PCBs, laminates etc.
K 8494 Translucent
K 8495 Red
K 8496 Blue
K 8497 Black
K 8498 Grey
K 8499 White
Creality Resin
500ml
SAVE 12%
37
$
79.95
$
34.95
19.95
$
K 8623
Take the hassle out
of 3D printer levelling.
Magnetic Plate
For LD-002R
Adds auto bed levelling to most FDM
3D printers for better prints & layer extrusion. Includes brackets for Ender/
CR series printers.
A nifty upgrade to help you remove prints with ease. Just peel
it off the print bed, give it a wiggle
and your prints release.
$
Release Film
For LD-002R
K 8622
A consumable part on resin
printers, this UV transparent
film protects your printers DLP
light source.
The STEM maker platform designed & developed in Australia.
PiicoDev hardware has been designed from the
ground-up with rapid prototyping and maker
education in mind. Featuring a unified MicroPython
library suitable for Raspberry Pi, Pico and Microbit.
Simple to connect modules with consistent sizing
for easy stacking and experimenting. The PiicoDev
system provides lots of creative freedom for hands
on electronics building.
Designed and developed by Core Electronics
in Newcastle, NSW.
Model
Z 6419
Z 6590
Z 6591
Z 6580
Z 6581
Z 6582
Z 6583
Z 6584
Z 6585
Z 6596
Z 6597
Type
Adapter Board for Raspberry Pi Pico
Adapter Board for BBC micro:bit
Adapter Board for Raspberry Pi GPIO
TMP117 Precision Temperature Sensor
BME280 Atmospheric Sensor
VEM6030 Ambient Light Sensor
VL53L1X Distance Sensor
MPU6050 Motion Sensor
MS5637 Pressure Sensor
PiicoDev Cable 100mm
PiicoDev Cable 200mm
RRP
$7.95
$5.80
$4.60
$9.95
$13.50
$4.60
$19.00
$9.25
$8.60
$1.10
$1.50
Western Australia
Build It Yourself Electronics Centres
Sale Ends July 31st 2022
Phone: 1300 797 007 Fax: 1300 789 777
Mail Orders: mailorder<at>altronics.com.au
» Perth: 174 Roe St
» Joondalup: 2/182 Winton Rd
» Balcatta: 7/58 Erindale Rd
» Cannington: 5/1326 Albany Hwy
» Midland: 1/212 Gt Eastern Hwy
» Myaree: 5A/116 N Lake Rd
Available
now!
Victoria
08 9428 2188
08 9428 2166
08 9428 2167
08 9428 2168
08 9428 2169
08 9428 2170
» Springvale: 891 Princes Hwy
» Airport West: 5 Dromana Ave
03 9549 2188
03 9549 2121
New South Wales
» Auburn: 15 Short St
02 8748 5388
Queensland
» Virginia: 1870 Sandgate Rd
07 3441 2810
South Australia
» Prospect: 316 Main Nth Rd
08 8164 3466
Please Note: Resellers have to pay the cost of freight & insurance. Therefore the range of stocked products & prices charged by individual resellers may vary from our catalogue.
© Altronics 2022. E&OE. Prices stated herein are only valid until date shown or until stocks run out. Prices include GST and exclude freight and insurance. See latest catalogue for freight rates.
*All smartphone devices pictured in this catalogue are for illustration purposes only. Not included with product.
B 0091
Find a local reseller at: altronics.com.au/storelocations/dealers/
Multimeter
-CheckeR
-Calibrator
It’s amazing how handy even the cheapest
multimeters can be. But did you ever stop to think
about how accurate they are? With the Multimeter
Checker, you can verify their accuracy. For meters
that aren’t so cheap, it will also allow you to
calibrate them and adjust for drift.
Project by Tim Blythman
ultimeters are indispensable
tools; perhaps so necessary
that we tend to take them, and
their accuracy, for granted. Sometimes
accuracy is not that important, but
there are times when it is.
Back in August 2015, we presented
the Low-cost Accurate Voltage Current
Resistance Reference (siliconchip.au/
Article/8801) and showed how to use
it to check and calibrate multimeters
(siliconchip.au/Article/8832).
It provides a DC reference voltage
of 2.5V ±1mV (±0.04%), a resistance
of 1kW ±1W (±0.1%) and a current of
2.5mA ±3.5µA (±0.14%). The DC voltage reference comes from a precision
voltage reference IC, and that plus a
precision resistor provides the current
reference. That precision resistor can
also be used on its own as the resistance reference.
The whole thing is compact and
ran from a coin cell, perfect for keeping in the toolbox to be used whenever needed. It covers the most common measurements done with a multimeter.
While that was great, it didn’t provide an AC voltage source, so not all of
the typical multimeter ranges could be
checked or calibrated. So we decided
to develop a new design that adds
that feature.
For the new Multimeter Checker, we
M
siliconchip.com.au
have a dedicated voltage reference IC
providing 3.3V for DC calibration. This
is also used with a precision resistor
to provide an accurate 100mA current source. It has another precision
resistor to act as a resistance reference.
Importantly, for calibrating AC
voltage ranges, it provides a precise
1V RMS AC sinewave at one of three
frequencies: 50Hz or 60Hz (to match
typical mains frequencies) or 100Hz.
Different multimeters use different methods to measure AC voltage
(and alternating current). That is why
some multimeters are labelled as “True
RMS” while others are not.
True RMS multimeters give accurate AC voltage measurements, whatever the shape of the waveform. In
contrast, some cheaper multimeters
measure the peak voltage and multiply the reading by a factor of 0.71, on
the assumption that the waveform is
sinusoidal. Of course, this will not be
accurate unless the waveform is close
to being a sinewave.
A square wave, for example, will
give an artificially low reading as its
peak is the same as its RMS value.
Similarly, triangle and sawtooth waves
will tend to give readings that are too
high.
Some other meters measure the
average of the rectified AC voltage and
assume a sinewave, which will have
different error magnitudes for other
waveforms.
In our circuit, the AC voltage is
generated by an analog circuit, so it
does not have the digital artefacts that
would be produced by a digital synthesis method. Its amplitude and frequency are checked and adjusted by
a microcontroller, which compares
Features & Specifications
∎
∎
∎
∎
∎
∎
∎
∎
DC voltage reference: 3.3V ±0.1%
AC voltage reference: 1V ±0.5% RMS
Direct current reference: 100mA ±0.2%
Resistance reference: 33W ±0.1%
AC reference voltage frequency: 50Hz, 60Hz or 100Hz (±0.3%)
AC reference frequency source: crystal oscillator
AC reference harmonics: ≲40dBV
Control: pushbuttons with LEDs, and over USB virtual serial port
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2022 31
these to the DC voltage reference and
the frequency of a crystal oscillator.
As well as enjoying the benefits of
both analog and digital circuitry, this
allows the AC voltage reference to be
set to 50Hz, 60Hz or 100Hz.
Circuit details
The entire Checker/Calibrator circuit is shown in Fig.1. The DC references (voltage, current and resistance) on the Checker work much
the same as in the earlier Low-cost
Accurate Voltage Current Resistance
Reference. Still, we’ll explain how
they work together, because they are
also an intrinsic part of the AC voltage reference.
5V USB power is applied to socket
CON1 and powers, among other
things, 3.3V precision voltage reference VREF1. This MCP1501 low-cost
3.3V precision reference is critical to
the correct operation of all the other
parts.
It’s capable of supplying up to
20mA, which is vital to ensure that
the accuracy of the reference is not
affected by the connected loads, especially as the analog generation circuitry is powered from this 3.3V reference.
VREF1 has a 100nF bypass capacitor at its positive supply, pin 1. The
3.3V output from pin 7 is connected
to TP5 and can be compared with circuit ground at TP6; these two points
are marked DCV on the PCB. The PCB
has separate circuit traces from TP5
to REF1’s feedback (FB) pin 8. This
ensures that the 3.3V is accurate at the
test point, in spite of any loads.
Precision reference current
Dual low-voltage rail-to-rail op amp
IC3 (MCP6272) is powered from the
3.3V output of VREF1 and has a 100nF
supply bypass capacitor. One half of
IC3 (IC3b) is used to drive the current
reference.
The 3.3V from VREF1 feeds into
the non-inverting input of IC3b (pin
5) via a 1kW resistor. Its corresponding inverting input (pin 6) is fed (via
another 1kW resistor) from the high
side of a 33W precision resistor used
to measure the reference current. Any
current through this resistor causes a
voltage to develop between TP4 and
ground.
The output of this op amp (pin 7)
drives the base of NPN transistor Q1,
acting as an emitter-follower, via a
100W resistor. Q1’s collector is connected to the 5V rail, and its emitter
goes to TP3.
TP3 and TP4 are thus the current reference terminals. When TP4 is below
3.3V, Q1 is fed current by the op amp.
If TP4 starts to rise above 3.3V, the current drive to Q1 starts to get cut off.
When TP4 is at 3.3V, 100mA must be
flowing through the 33W resistor to
ground.
There will be a minuscule current
flowing from TP4 into the op amp’s
pin 6, but it is of the order nanoamps,
so it is much less significant than the
0.1% precision component tolerances.
Thus, the op amp’s feedback loop
maintains 100mA between TP3 and
TP4 when the two are connected by
a multimeter measuring current. TP3
and TP4 are labelled on the PCB as the
DCA reference points.
This compact Checker provides outputs
to check the most commonly
used features on most
multimeters. It delivers
3.3V DC, 100mA DC
and a 1V AC RMS pure
sinewave that can be
set to 50Hz, 60Hz or
100Hz and is checked
for both voltage and
frequency by the onboard
microcontroller. The USB
interface can also be used
to manually control the
AC oscillator and set
custom frequencies.
Australia's electronics magazine
The 1nF capacitor between pins
6 and 7 helps suppress any high-
frequency oscillation that might occur
due to the high gain of the op amp.
With 3.3V across the 33W resistor
plus the base-emitter drop of Q1 and
perhaps 0.1V across the 100W base
resistor, the op amp output is typically
at 4V, giving about 1V of headroom
below the 5V supply. So anything connected to the current reference must
drop less than 1V or have less than 10W
resistance for the current reference to
work correctly.
A second, identical 33W precision
resistor is provided as the resistance
reference, allowing the circuit to provide an independent set of test pads,
TP7 and TP8, for the resistance feature.
AC voltage reference
Practically all of the remaining circuitry is used to provide the AC reference.
Since this circuit operates from a
single-ended 5V DC supply, we first
need a nominal level around which
the AC signal can swing. For this, we
have chosen half of the 3.3V supply,
which is derived by using a pair of
10kW resistors to divide the output
from VREF1 to produce 1.65V.
The resulting voltage is low-pass filtered by a 1μF capacitor and buffered
by IC3a, with another 10kW resistor
providing the unity-gain feedback.
The output of this op amp (pin 1) sits
at 1.65V, and this is our AREF rail.
The AC signal is generated by a
phase-shift oscillator based around
another op amp, IC1 (another
MCP6272), and IC2, an AD8403ARZ10
quad 10kW digital potentiometer.
IC2 is powered by the 5V rail with
a 100nF bypass capacitor. The analog
ground pins 1, 5, 17 and 21 connect
to circuit ground, along with its digital ground at pin 9, while the SHDN
(shutdown) and RS (reset) pins are
pulled up to 5V by 10kW resistors to
allow normal operation of the digital
potentiometer at all times.
Op amp IC1 is powered from the
3.3V rail, with a 100nF bypass capacitor, to provide signal symmetry around
the 1.65V AREF reference. This is
one reason why we have chosen the
MCP1501 reference, as it has a sufficient output current and suitable voltage to power these components.
This is critical because one of IC1’s
outputs saturates briefly on every
cycle, so if it were powered from 5V,
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: most of the components in the circuit are to generate and monitor the AC waveform,
including IC1, IC2 and IC4. IC1 and its connected components form the phase shift oscillator, with
IC2’s potentiometer elements controlling its frequency and amplitude under the supervision of
IC4. It measures the oscillator voltage using its ADC with reference to the 3.3V precision reference
and adjusts the digital potentiometers to achieve very close to 1V RMS. Similarly, the AC signal
frequency is adjusted using 16MHz crystal X1 as a reference.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2022 33
the saturation would occur differently
on positive and negative swings, leading to harmonics (ie, frequencies above
the selected 50/60/100Hz option)
creeping into the output.
A phase shift oscillator works by
reinforcing a signal that is delayed
by 360°. The delay is formed by several RC filter networks, which add up
to 180° of phase shift, followed by
inversion, equivalent to a further 180°
phase shift.
As the RC filter phase shift depends
on frequency, it will only have a delay
of precisely 360° at one specific frequency. Signal components at other
frequencies are attenuated as they are
delayed by a different amount and
interfere destructively as they make
their way around the circuit.
The circuit elements also attenuate
all frequencies to some extent, so one
half of op amp IC1 provides the gain
needed to overcome this, while the
other half provides the phase inversion.
Phase shift oscillator
There are three phase-shift elements
composed of three 1μF capacitors connected to IC2 and three of the digital
potentiometer elements inside IC2
(numbered 1-3). These are all wired
as variable resistors (rheostats) and
can vary independently from near to
0W up to around 10kW.
Imagine a fairly pure 50Hz 1V AC
RMS signal at pin 1 of IC1; this is
what is expected when the oscillator
is working as designed and set to the
50Hz output. 1V RMS is around 2.8V
peak-to-peak.
Op amp IC1b acts as an inverting
amplifier with a gain of 1.5 times. So
the output at pin 7 is expected to be
an inverted version of IC1a’s pin 1
signal, but with a 4.2V peak-to-peak
value. Since IC1 is fed from a 3.3V
supply, the output saturates at 3.3V
peak-to-peak.
The resulting waveform is between a
sinewave and a square wave, so it will
also have some odd harmonics of 50Hz
present, the first of which is at 150Hz.
Fig.2 shows the spectrum of the oscillator’s output at 50Hz. You can see that
the only significant harmonic is the
third harmonic at 150Hz, although its
level is down by over 40dB compared
to the fundamental.
Note that we will still get a 3.3V
peak-to-peak output from IC1b even
if the signal from IC1a’s pin 1 output
34
Silicon Chip
Fig.2: this spectral analysis of the Checker’s AC output shows
that the strongest harmonic is the third, over 40dB below the
frequency of interest. The peak at 0Hz is due to the DC offset
and using a grounded oscilloscope, instead of referring the
signal to the 1.65V test point, TP2.
drops as low as around 0.8V AC RMS
or if it was higher than 1V AC RMS
due to the saturation effect.
This amplified signal from IC1b (at
pin 7) passes through the three RC lowpass filter stages. If the digital potentiometers are set to around 5.5kW, each
stage will cause a 60° delay to the 50Hz
component and approximately halve
its AC amplitude (as measured at each
successive capacitor).
Other, higher-frequency components will be delayed more and attenuated even more. For example, the
third harmonic of 50Hz at 150Hz will
be phase-shifted by around 80° and be
reduced to about a fifth of its original
amplitude by each stage.
The three stages interact to a degree,
so a simple mathematical analysis of
each stage separately does not quite
match what happens when they are
combined. Before building the prototype, we had to simulate the entire
circuit to determine the required component values.
The result is a relatively pure 50Hz
signal, but with quite a low amplitude
coming into pin 3 of IC1a. But as long
as the pin 7 output of IC1b is saturated
on each cycle, the level is steady.
IC1a acts as a non-inverting amplifier with a gain set by the ratio of the
330W fixed resistor and the fourth
variable resistor in IC4. This gain is
selected to bring the attenuated signal from the RC filter stages back up to
1V RMS and is fed to TP1 via a 100W
resistor to protect IC1 from external
short circuits.
TP2 is connected to the 1.65V reference so that the sinewave between
TP1 and TP2 can be measured without a DC offset.
So, the AC signal frequency can be
changed by adjusting the three variable
Australia's electronics magazine
resistor elements in the three RC networks. Similarly, the amplitude can be
varied by adjusting the fourth variable
resistor value.
The resulting waveforms are shown
in Scope 1. The primary output signal
is the blue trace, while the red trace
is the saturated output at IC1b’s pin
7. Note that it is inverted compared
to the blue trace.
You can see that the orange, yellow
and green traces are phase-shifted
and attenuated by each successive RC
stage. The green trace is amplified to
become the blue trace, thus completing the feedback loop.
Control circuitry
IC4 is a PIC16F1459 microcontroller that adjusts and monitors the AC
reference for accuracy, among other
tasks. It is powered from the 5V USB
supply with a 100nF bypass capacitor between pin 1 (5V) and pin 20
(ground). A 10kW resistor between
pins 1 and 4 pulls up the MCLR pin
to allow normal operation when the
circuit is powered.
IC4 needs both an accurate voltage
and frequency reference to do its job.
The 3.3V output of VREF1 goes to JP1,
and with the appropriate jumper fitted
(in the ‘Run’ position), it feeds through
to pin 16 (AREF+) of IC4. Since pin 16
also provides the PGD programming
function, JP1’s other jumper position
(marked ‘Prog.’) connects to programming header CON2.
The other programming signals from
IC4 are also connected to CON2. This
includes MCLR, 5V, ground and PGC
at IC4’s pin 15.
Pins 13 and 14 connect to the AC
reference output at TP1 and the 1.65V
AREF signal, respectively. These are
monitored by the ADC (analog to
siliconchip.com.au
Scope 1: the blue trace is the AC output signal at TP1, while the red trace is measured at output pin 7 of IC1b. The orange,
yellow and green traces are measured at the top of each 1μF capacitor to the left of IC1a in Fig.1, from left to right.
digital converter) peripheral in IC4 to
check the frequency and amplitude of
the output signal.
The frequency reference comes
from 16MHz crystal X1, connected to
IC4’s pins 2 and 3 (CLKIN and CLKOUT). A 15pF load capacitor connects
from each side of the crystal to circuit
ground so it will oscillate correctly.
Three LEDs, LED1-LED3, connect
to IC4 via 10kW series resistors. The
LED cathodes are grounded, so the
LEDs illuminate when pins 8-10 are
pulled high.
Two tactile pushbuttons, S1 and
S2, connect to pins 11 and 12. The
other side of each switch is grounded
while the pins are internally pulled up,
allowing the micro to detect when the
button is pressed. These LEDs and buttons provide a basic control interface
for operating the Multimeter Checker.
Control of digital potentiometer IC2
is over an SPI serial interface, with
pins 5, 6 and 7 of IC4 being connected
to pins 14, 12 and 11 of IC2. These
lines have the roles of SCK (clock),
SDI (data) and CS (chip select), respectively.
Since IC2 uses an unusual 10-bit
interface and a high data rate is not
needed, the SPI commands are sent via
bit-banged GPI/O operations. This also
allowed us to simplify the PCB layout
as we did not need to use the dedicated
SPI (MSSP peripheral) pins, but could
use any digital I/O pins.
Pins 17, 18 and 19 are associated
with IC4’s USB peripheral, so pins
18 and 19 are taken to the CON1 USB
socket, and pin 17 is fed 3.3V from
REF1. This means that the Multimeter
Checker can be controlled and monitored by being connected to a computer’s USB port too.
The PIC16F1459 was chosen as a
siliconchip.com.au
suitable part because we could not
quite fit the necessary features onto a
14-pin microcontroller. But the presence of the USB interface means that
we can add some other interesting and
valuable features too.
Finally, we get to the power supply. We’ve chosen a USB supply for
its ubiquity. The 5V supply also gives
more headroom than the 3V coin cell
from the earlier design. After all, the
3.3V voltage reference would not function from a 3V cell. It also allows us
to produce a higher test current than
a coin cell could supply.
LED4 and a 10kW series resistor are
connected across the incoming 5V
supply to show that power is present.
There is no onboard 5V regulator; we
rely on the USB source to be within
the normal 4.5-5.5V range. All of the
onboard components running from the
5V rail can handle that.
Firmware
The firmware program that runs on
IC4 has three main aspects. The first is
the fairly straightforward task of monitoring the buttons S1 and S2 and controlling LEDs LED1-LED3, providing a
basic user interface.
The second is the USB interface.
This appears as a virtual serial port
when connected to a computer. Keystrokes from the computer are stored
in a buffer and handled much like button presses, but with extra functions.
There is also the option of ‘printing’ status updates to the serial port,
so the Multimeter Checker can provide
more detailed information via the virtual serial port than can be displayed
with the LEDs.
Finally, IC4 is responsible for setting and monitoring the AC reference
voltage output. It has no control over
Australia's electronics magazine
the DC voltage or current references,
although it uses the DC voltage reference to check the AC voltage. The
crystal oscillator used for IC4’s timebase ensures that all timing is accurate, particularly in measuring the
frequency.
The microcontroller samples the
AC voltage waveform and checks its
period (and thus its frequency), peakto-peak amplitude and average absolute amplitude (with reference to the
1.65V midpoint).
Since the 3.3V reference is used as
the scale for the ADC peripheral, the
absolute digital value of the peak-topeak and average amplitude values
are known and fixed in the program.
The sampling works as follows. A
timer interrupt fires 6000 times every
second and takes a sample of the AC
waveform. We chose this rate to allow
integer divisions of 50Hz, 60Hz and
100Hz into that timer. Although that
is not critical, it makes the calculations simpler.
Just over 240 samples are taken, corresponding to two complete cycles at
50Hz. This is so that we can ensure
that at least two positive-going zero
crossings occur within each sample
set; these are the points between which
the period is measured.
While 120 samples for a cycle at
50Hz does not seem like much precision, the firmware interpolates where
the zero crossings occur to within
1/16th of a sample. It does this by calculating how much the samples before
and after the zero-crossing are above
or below the zero point. This way, the
period can be measured with a resolution of around one part in 960 for a
100Hz signal, or better for lower frequencies.
Sampling must occur without
July 2022 35
interruption, so a set of samples is
taken and then processed. Adjustments are made if necessary; then it
goes back to sampling. By taking both
the peak-to-peak and average amplitude, the Checker can also confirm
that the waveform is sinusoidal, as a
waveform with a different shape will
not be able to match both.
Oscillator adjustments
The four digital potentiometers each
have 256 steps. This is what limits the
amplitude accuracy to 0.5% (about
1 part in 200), as the steps are about
that far apart.
In practice, a small amount of dithering occurs, so the average over several cycles will be closer to the target,
close to the accuracy of the 3.3V reference.
The frequency can be controlled
more closely than the amplitude, as
three potentiometers are involved.
Rather than stepping all three together,
each is incremented in turn, giving
almost three times as many steps.
This resolution results in steps of
around 0.1Hz at 50Hz up to 0.3Hz at
100Hz, around 0.3% in the operating range. Like the amplitude, dither
over several cycles improves the
longer-term average accuracy of the
frequency.
We’ll mention the full details of the
USB interface a bit later. It provides a
manual mode that allows direct control of the digital potentiometers.
Construction
The Multimeter Checker is built
on a small PCB, 65 × 58.5mm, coded
04107221 – see Fig.3. It is mainly populated with surface mounting parts,
although they are all pretty large and
easy to work with. The only part with
a smaller pin pitch than 1.27mm is
the USB socket, and all passives are
M3216/1206 parts at around 3.2 ×
1.6mm.
We’ll assume you have flux, solder
wick, tweezers and all the other gear
for working with these sorts of parts.
Fume extraction is a good idea when
working with flux too.
Start by fitting the USB socket,
CON1. Apply flux to the pads on the
PCB and insert the socket’s locating
posts into their holes on the PCB. Clean
the iron’s tip and add fresh solder.
Carefully apply the tip to each lead in
turn without touching the metal shell.
After soldering each pin, use a magnifier to check that there are no solder
bridges, and if there are, use the wick
to remove them. If you can’t see, clean
off the flux residue with alcohol or a
flux cleaner.
Parts List – Multimeter Checker & Calibrator
1 double-sided PCB coded 04107221, 65 × 58.5mm
1 mini USB Type B socket (CON1)
1 5-pin right-angle header (CON2; optional; only needed for in-circuit
programming)
1 3-pin header and jumper shunt (JP1)
2 small SMD two-pin tactile switches (S1, S2)
1 16MHz low-profile HC-49 crystal (X1)
Semiconductors
2 MCP6272 or MCP6L2 dual low-power rail-to-rail op amps, SOIC-8 (IC1,
IC3)
1 AD8403ARZ10 4-channel 10kW digital potentiometer, wide SOIC-24 (IC2)
1 PIC16F1459-I/SO microcontroller programmed with 0410722A.HEX, wide
SOIC-20 (IC4)
1 MCP1501T-33E/SN 3.3V voltage reference, SOIC-8 (REF1)
4 green LEDs, 3mm through-hole or M3216/1206 SMD (LED1-LED4)
1 BC817 50V 800mA NPN transistor, SOT-23 (Q1)
Capacitors (all 10V+, X7R or C0G ceramic, SMD M3216/1206 or M2012/0805)
4 1μF
5 100nF
1 1nF
2 15pF
Resistors (all M3216/1206 1% 1/8W except as noted)
1 15kW
12 10kW
2 1kW
1 330W
2 100W
2 33W 0.1%
Complete Kit: includes all the parts listed above and is available for $45 +
P&P, Cat SC6406
36
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
If you find a solder bridge, apply
fresh flux to the leads and press the
wick against the bridge using the iron,
then carefully pull both away. When
the smaller leads look tidy, solder the
larger pads for the shell, turning up the
heat if necessary.
Fit the four ICs and REF1 next.
These are all SOIC (small outline IC)
parts of various sizes, but don’t mix
up REF1, IC1 and IC3 as they all have
eight pins. Note that IC3 and REF1
face in opposite directions too. Check
the part markings against the parts list
and PCB silkscreen as you go, making
double sure that pin 1 is correctly orientated in each case before soldering
any pins.
For each part, apply flux, then tack
one lead in place, ensuring the correct
orientation by checking the silkscreen
dot and IC markings. If the pads are
all well aligned, solder the remaining
pins; otherwise, adjust as needed by
reapplying heat from the iron.
Like with CON1, check for solder
bridges and remove them as needed.
It’s usually easier to solder all the pins
before removing any bridges.
Q1 is the only transistor on the
board, and it should be fitted as
shown in the photos and overlay. It’s
the smallest part overall, so be careful not to lose it. But as the leads are
widely spaced, it should not be difficult to solder.
Install the capacitors next. The values will not be marked on the parts
themselves, so work with one value at
a time. The values required for each
location are shown in Fig.3.
Solder one lead, check that the part
is square, flat and even within its pads
and then solder the remaining lead.
Refresh the first lead if necessary.
Remember to add flux to the PCB pads
as you go, regularly cleaning the iron
tip and then adding fresh solder.
The resistors should be marked with
codes representing their values. They
are all the same size; check Fig.3 or
the PCB silkscreening to see which
values go where.
We used larger pads for the 33W precision resistor in case part shortages
meant that we couldn’t get the high-
accuracy parts in an M3216/1206 size,
so don’t be concerned that the part is
much smaller than the pads.
Now fit the four LEDs. They are
all in one corner of the PCB and
have their cathodes to the right, as
indicated by the cathode symbol on
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.3: most components are
relatively easy to solder;
the USB socket is a bit
tricky because its pins are
pretty close together. During
assembly, the most critical
thing to check is that all ICs
are orientated correctly, with
their pin 1s in the positions
shown. Also ensure that the
solder makes contact with
the pad and pin of each
device and check carefully
for solder bridges between
pins when you’ve finished.
the silkscreen. You can use either
M3216/1206 surface-mounting types
or 3mm through-hole LEDs.
For through-hole LEDs, the anode
lead is usually longer. If using SMD
LEDs, they should have green cathode markings, but it’s pretty easy to
check them with a DMM set on diode
test mode.
Hold the probes on either side of the
LED (making sure it doesn’t fly away!).
If the LED lights up, the red probe is
on the anode and the black probe on
the cathode.
The two tactile switches mount near
the LEDs. Install these in the same
fashion as the other two-lead parts.
That completes the surface-mounted
parts, so you can now clean off the
flux residue. The remaining components are all through-hole types, and
some are optional.
Fit crystal X1 next. You should
not need an insulating pad under the
metal case as the two mounting pads
are covered with solder mask on the
top of the PCB. However, if the solder
mask in that area is damaged, add an
insulator or mount it off the PCB surface. Regardless, verify after soldering
it that its case is not shorted to either
pad underneath.
If you have a pre-programmed
microcontroller (IC4), you don’t need
to fit CON2, the in-circuit programming header. In this case, you could
also replace JP1 with a short wire link
across the pair of pads on the “R” side
of the jumper.
Otherwise, fit both headers and
install the jumper shunt initially in the
“P” position for programming.
Although we have not used them on
our prototype, we’ve scattered a few
3mm holes around the PCB to fit standoffs if you want to mount the Checker
to something.
siliconchip.com.au
Programming
If you don’t have a pre-programmed
microcontroller, you will have to program it now. The Silicon Chip Online
Shop offers a complete kit for this project; if you’re using that, the micro will
be programmed, and you won’t have
to worry about this step.
Using a PICkit 3, PICkit 4 or
Snap connected to CON2, load the
0410722A.HEX file onto IC4 using the
Microchip IPE (integrated programming environment). If you are using a
Snap, you likely will need to supply
power to the board; this can be done
using a USB lead connected to CON1.
When power is applied, LED4 will
light up. So if you don’t see LED4 illuminated, check for power and that the
circuit has been built correctly before
proceeding.
After programming, disconnect
the programmer and move JP1 from
the “P” (program) position to the “R”
(run) position.
Testing
When the unit is powered up, it will
start in 50Hz mode, and LED1 should
be solidly lit to indicate this. Pressing
S1 will cycle through the 50Hz, 60Hz
and 100Hz modes. LED1-LED3 light
up in turn to show the current mode.
Pressing S2 switches between the
default pure sinewave to a more saturated waveform. You can use this to
check how the multimeter responds
to AC waveforms that are not pure
sinewaves.
In this mode, the amplitude is set
to a high level (causing saturation of
the op amp output and clipping). The
LEDs indicate this mode by flickering
rapidly. This waveform may be easier
to verify during initial testing, as it
does not depend on the microcontroller correctly detecting the amplitude.
Australia's electronics magazine
If the LEDs are flashing slowly
(around 1Hz), the Checker has not
been able to verify that the output
frequency and amplitude are correct.
They might flash briefly on a mode
change, but there is a problem if they
continue flashing for more than a few
seconds.
In this case, first double-check that
JP1 is in the run position. This connects the 3.3V reference to the microcontroller, so if it is still in the programming position or not fitted, the
micro cannot confirm the AC output
level.
One bad solder joint, especially
around IC1 and IC2, will be enough to
corrupt the waveform, so check those
areas too.
If you have an oscilloscope, you can
verify that the waveform at TP1 is a 1V
RMS sinewave offset by 1.65V DC. The
DC level can be eliminated by using
AC coupling on the ‘scope. Be careful
not to ground TP2 unless the supply
to the Checker is floating (for example,
it is powered by a USB battery pack).
USB control
Connecting the USB interface to a
computer will provide a lot more information, so do this if possible, especially if you are troubleshooting. The
Checker should not need USB drivers
on recent operating systems, and you
can simply use a serial terminal program to communicate.
We usually use TeraTerm on Windows, but programs like Putty, the
Arduino Serial Monitor or MMEdit
can also be used. On Linux, minicom
is one option.
Find out what serial port has been
allocated and open this with your terminal program. You will not need to
set a baud rate as it is a virtual serial
port.
July 2022 37
Typing “1”, “2” or “3” will change
the mode to 50Hz, 60Hz or 100Hz.
You will see the LEDs change as the
mode changes. Pressing “S” selects
the sinewave mode, while the “R” key
sets the saturated output (think “rectangular wave”).
Pressing the space bar will produce
a status report over two lines; this can
be seen at the top of Screen 1. The first
line shows the current control variables; “A” controls the amplitude and
“F” controls the frequency. The second
line shows the reported amplitude (V)
and frequency (F).
Pressing “M” sets manual control mode. All three LEDs will light
together in this case, and you can set
the A and F parameters manually. The
A parameter is changed with the full
stop and comma keys (think of the <>
above them on the keyboard). Increasing the A parameter will decrease the
output amplitude.
Once the output voltage drops
below 0.8V AC RMS, it may drop off
altogether as there is insufficient gain
around the feedback loop to maintain
oscillation. Still, it will recover once
a valid setting is selected.
You can change the frequency with
the “−” and “+” (or “=”) keys. The F
parameter can span between 1 and
750, corresponding to approximately
45Hz to over 1kHz. The Checker cannot accurately display frequencies
over about 600Hz, so the use of this
end of the range is not recommended.
Manual mode is terminated by
pressing S1 on the board, or selecting
the 50Hz, 60Hz or 100Hz modes from
the USB interface using the 1-3 keys.
Using it
Before you start using our Checker,
you should refer to the calibration section in its manual (if present).
When using our Checker, you can
check or calibrate a multimeter in the
following modes:
• DC voltage – connect the probes
between TP5 and TP6 on a range like
20V DC and check/adjust for 3.300V.
• AC voltage – connect the probes
between TP1 and TP2 on a range like
2V AC and check/adjust for a reading of 1.00V. This should be correct
regardless of whether the meter is a
True RMS type or not, as it is a pure
sinewave.
• Direct current – connect the
probes between TP3 and TP4 on a
range like 200mA and check/adjust
for 100mA output. TP3 is the current
source and TP4 is the sink, so you
might get a negative reading unless
the red probe goes to TP3.
• Alternating current – connect
the probes between TP1 or TP2 with
a 100W 1% or 0.1% resistor in series.
Set it for a low range and check for a
reading of 10mA.
• Resistance – connect the probes
between TP7 and TP8 on a range like
200W and check/adjust for a reading
of 33.00W.
• Frequency – connect the probes
between TP1 and TP2 on a range like
200Hz and check for a reading of 50Hz,
60Hz or 100Hz (set using pushbutton
S1 and LEDs1-3). For best results, press
S1 until LED3 lights and check/adjust
for 100.0Hz.
• Duty cycle – connect the probes
between TP1 and TP2 and check for a
Here we are probing TP1 & TP2
(ACV) with an Agilent (now
Keysight) U1252A DMM. This result
is within 0.03% of the expecting
value, which shows that the meter’s
calibration is still good, and
demonstrates the accuracy of the
Multimeter Checker & Calibrator.
38
Silicon Chip
Screen 1: a typical output from the
USB serial port. You can trigger
the two-line reports shown here
by pressing the space bar, while
the single-line entries are due to
manual changes in the amplitude and
frequency settings. Mode changes do
not produce any output but will be
seen in changes to the illuminated
LEDs on the Checker.
reading of 50%. For best results, press
S1 until LED3 lights.
• True RMS readings – press S2 to
activate the modified wave mode and
check the AC voltage reading between
TP1 and TP2. The displayed voltage
should be above 1V RMS; our prototype produces 1.27V RMS in this
mode. A higher reading suggests your
meter uses the average method. In
comparison, a lower reading suggests
it uses the peak method (as the peakto-peak voltage in this mode is 3.3V,
a peak-reading multimeter will generally show around 1.17V).
Summary
While we set out to add an AC voltage and frequency reference to an otherwise straightforward DC reference
design, we think that being able to
control the operation of the AC source
manually will be a handy feature that
many people will use. The USB interface also gives this handy little device
a range of possible uses.
One thing to watch out for is noisy
USB charger power supplies; they can
cause frequency measurements of the
ACV output to be unstable. In that case,
the best solution is to power it from a
USB power bank. A laptop USB port
usually provides enough clean power
to get stable readings from the Multimeter Checker.
SC
Australia's electronics magazine
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ANYCUBIC
Photon Mono
Resin-based
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Resin-based 3D printers have been
around for a while, but it’s only in
the last few years that we have
seen them experience a boom in
popularity and availability. We tested
this model (available from Jaycar)
to see how it shapes up, especially
compared to filament-based 3D
printing.
W
e previously looked at several
filament-based 3D printers,
including the UP! in August
2011 (siliconchip.au/Article/1132),
the RapMan in the December 2012
issue (siliconchip.au/Article/450) and
the Vellemann K8200 in October 2014
(siliconchip.au/Article/8040).
The Vellemann K8200 was available from both Jaycar and Altronics
as a kit. Since then, pre-assembled
filament-based 3D printers are much
more prevalent and can be purchased
even more cheaply than the kits from
less than 10 years ago.
We also covered other 3D printing
technologies in detail in January 2019
(siliconchip.com.au/Article/11367).
That article covered 3D printers that
siliconchip.com.au
use a plastic filament, also called
material extrusion, fused deposition
modelling (FDM) or fused filament fabrication (FFF). It also described other
technologies, including binder jetting,
directed energy deposition, material
jetting, powder bed fusion, sheet lamination and vat photopolymerisation.
The last of those is also commonly
known as resin 3D printing.
Like filament 3D printing, the technologies needed for resin 3D printing
have been known and patented for
around 30 years. The recent expiry of
these patents has allowed the unencumbered use of these technologies,
resulting in machines that you can
now purchase at quite reasonable
prices.
Australia's electronics magazine
Resin 3D printing
While the term vat photopolymerisation is a bit unwieldy, it does sum
up how resin 3D printing works. The
raw resin in a vat is photopolymerised, which means that it is hardened
by the selective application of light.
This is done in layers to build up the
object (see Fig.1).
Vat polymerisation can be broken
down into three major subsets: SLA,
DLP & LCD printing. The main difference between each type of printing is
the type of light source used:
• SLA (stereolithography) is the
most common form, whereby a UV
‘laser’ is used to trace each layer
of resin.
July 2022 41
Cover
Vat detail
Z lead screw
Platform securing knob
Platform bracket
Spout
Printing platform
Frame
Vat retaining
screw
Resin vat
USB port
Fig.1: the basic principles of resin 3D
printing are shown. Many smaller
printers use an LCD panel to project
an entire layer rather than scanning
with a laser or DLP device. Source:
“Digital Fabrication Techniques for
Cultural Heritage: A Survey”
• DLP (digital light processing)
instead uses a single UV projector
with the light selectively directed to
process a whole layer at once.
• LCD (liquid crystal display) is
nearly identical to DLP except it
uses an array of LEDs as the UV
light source which is imaged via an
LCD panel.
There are quite a few parallels to
filament-based 3D printing, including
the use of ‘slicer’ software to process
computer models into the printer’s
working files. There are also several
significant differences, which we’ll
discuss in detail later.
In practically all cases, the resin
hardens when exposed to a UV light.
The resin consists of photosensitive
compounds which release free radicals
on exposure to specific wavelengths of
light. These free radicals cause other
substances in the resin to combine into
the final, solid resin polymer.
A movable platform, analogous to
the print bed on a filament-based 3D
printer, moves away from the panel to
create the third axis perpendicular to
the platform surface.
Anycubic Mono UV Photon
The Anycubic Mono UV Photon is
reasonably representative of the resin
3D printers that use an LCD panel.
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Touschscreen
FEP film
Power switch
UV LCD screen (under vat)
Fig.2: the main parts of the Mono. The FEP Film is a thin transparent plastic
film that allows the UV light to pass through and cure the resin.
Some larger 3D printers use the scanning laser technique, but otherwise,
the parts and operation will be similar
for the commonly available consumer
resin 3D printers.
We purchased our unit from Jaycar
Electronics (Cat TL4422). Note that
it will be discontinued as there is a
higher-resolution “4K” version replacing it (Cat TL4419). You might still be
able to pick up one of the reviewed
printers from Jaycar if you are quick.
These printers are very similar and
you can expect everything we say
about the review unit to apply to the
4K version, with the benefit of finer
details on the newer version.
Returning to the printer we’re
reviewing, It has a nominal print area
of 80 × 130 × 165mm. Many resin 3D
printers use a similar LCD screen to a
mobile phone, which helps to explain
those relatively small dimensions. The
availability of off-the-shelf screens
such as these is part of why prices for
such 3D printers have dropped.
The overall size of the printer is 222
× 227mm at the base and it is 383mm
tall. So it’s quite compact.
The nominal resolution is 0.01mm
(10μm) on the vertical (Z) axis and
0.051mm (51μm) on the horizontal
(X and Y) axes. The horizontal resolution is due to the LCD itself, while
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the motion hardware limits the vertical resolution. All of these figures are
much finer than commonly found on
filament-based 3D printers.
We’ll refer to it as the Mono, as Photon is the name Anycubic appears to
give to all its resin 3D printers, and
we feel that the UV label is implicit.
It’s called the Mono because it uses
a monochrome LCD panel. Many other
similar printers use commonly available RGB panels, resulting in longer
print times as the RGB panels do not
pass as much light as monochrome
panels.
Fig.2 shows the main parts of this
type of printer. In operation, the Z
lead screw moves the platform vertically. The hex screws on the platform allow it to be adjusted correctly
when the Z-axis is at its bottom home
position. During printing, the Z-axis
moves upwards as successive layers
are exposed.
One side effect of this motion is
that the object is printed upside-down
(compared to a filament-based 3D
printer), leading to some subtle and
interesting side effects.
Setting it up
Naturally, we dove straight into
trying the 3D printer out. Here’s our
experience of starting to use the Mono.
siliconchip.com.au
We expect many similar printers are
much the same.
We started with a 500mL bottle
of Anycubic clear resin (Jaycar Cat
TL4427) as the clear resin would let us
inspect the interior of 3D printed parts.
We also printed some parts with grey
resin, as you can see from our photos.
We had no trouble with the quickstart guide, although the instructions
are brief. There are a couple of presliced files on the included USB stick,
so you don’t even need to install the
software to start printing. We simply
plugged in the USB stick to the Mono.
We later switched to a shorter USB
stick so that it didn’t protrude as far
from the printer’s body, reducing the
risk of it getting damaged. We found
that even a 1GB stick was ample, with
most sliced files coming in under
10MB.
After unpacking and assembling,
the essential preliminary step is to
set the platform using the four hex
head screws. There is a piece of paper
included specifically for this purpose.
Like a filament-based printer, the
ideal gap between the platform and
the UV LCD screen is about the thickness of a sheet of paper. In the case of
the Mono, this gives space for the thin
film of the resin bath.
There aren’t too many functions on
the Mono’s touch screen, so it’s easy
enough to navigate. Still, the “Home”
option, which we expect would be
used regularly, is quite deep in the
menu structure.
After the platform is homed, the hex
head screws are tightened to fix this
positioning. The instructions say to
press the “Z=0” button before continuing. After this, the platform moves up
to allow the resin vat to be inserted.
While it appears that the thin FEP
(fluorinated ethylene propylene) membrane of the resin vat would be a suitable thickness for calibration (and we
did use it on occasion when the vat and
platform were wet with resin), we can
see a good reason for removing the vat.
A common catastrophic failure
mode is for the platform to be driven
into the UV LCD screen with something solid hidden in the resin. This
cracks and damages the LCD (fortunately available as a spare part).
This is more likely than you might
think, as many failed prints result from
the printed object detaching from the
platform and falling into the resin.
Even using clear resin doesn’t help
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much, as a transparent object is practically invisible in clear resin!
Accessories and safety
The Mono includes several tools
in the box. There are two scrapers, a
plastic mask, some gloves, a handful of
filter funnels and three hex wrenches
(Allen keys). The manual also notes
that safety glasses should be worn
when handling the resin.
The mask, gloves and filter funnels
should be considered consumables.
There is some discussion online that
the mask supplied (which appears to
be the type used for protection against
dust) will not block the resin fumes,
and we found that to be the case.
The most common advice is to work
in a well-ventilated area, such as near
an open window. However, consider
that sunlight (which includes a significant amount of UV) should be kept
away from the printer to prevent the
resin from being prematurely cured!
The gloves and glasses are to prevent
skin and eye contact with the resin; the
MSDS lists irritation as a side-effect of
skin contact. We didn’t notice any discomfort when we did get resin
on our skin, although this will
vary from person to person.
Thorough rinsing and washing with soap and water is the
recommended way to remove
resin on the skin.
The most extreme cases of
exposure involve the resin
being retained in the skin and
slowly hardening. We imagine
that this would be nasty if you
got it in your eye. Fortunately,
the resin is safe after it hardens, so the general advice for
disposing of surplus liquid
resin is to leave it in the sun
to harden.
not necessary if you take care, but
you must wear safety glasses as this
is when the resin could easily splash.
The inside of the vat is marked with
graduations in millilitres as well as a
MAX marker. Filling above the MAX
marker might cause the vat to overflow when the platform is lowered
into the vat.
The slicer program reports an estimate of the resin volume needed,
although this will vary with resin type,
temperature and even the degree of
exposure selected. We found that we
needed an excess of at least 10mL to
avoid running out.
Since there will be an excess of resin
needed in any case, we found it easiest to be generous, as the resin can be
later reclaimed using the filter funnels.
The printing process
The “Print” menu item simply lists
the available files on the USB stick,
including a name and a thumbnail
that looks like the view from the slicing software. Play and pause buttons
control the process.
A remaining time display is shown
Adding resin
The last step before printing is to add resin to the vat.
Wearing gloves is probably
This 3D printer also comes
in a 4K resolution model
called the Mono 4K (twice
the standard resolution).
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July 2022 43
during printing. We found it was pretty
accurate but consistently underestimated by about a minute for every
hour of printing time.
What you have read so far may lead
you to believe that resin 3D printing is
quite simple. Of course, there is some
subtlety to the way the Mono (or, we
expect, any other resin 3D printer)
does its job.
‘Exposure time’ is a critical parameter for resins. It varies from resin
to resin and needs to be longer for
thicker layers. Critically, it is not the
only time that is spent by the printer
on each layer.
The default exposure time for the
Anycubic resin is two seconds per
50μm layer. But the actual cycle time
per layer is on the order of 10 seconds
as other things need to happen.
When the printer is ready to start
its exposure time for a layer, it passes
the image to the LCD, turns on the UV
backlight and counts down the exposure time. It then turns off the backlight and clears the LCD.
There may now be an ‘off’ period,
where everything is left as-is for a few
seconds, allowing the freshly exposed
resin to settle. Both the absorbed UV
light and the chemical reaction it triggers can generate heat, so this period
also allows the heat to dissipate.
The printer then lifts the platform to
detach the freshly printed layer from
the FEP film. While FEP is a similar
material to Teflon, the resin still sticks
to it quite well. The tearing/popping
sound it makes is disconcerting, but
perfectly normal.
The Mono’s default setting is for a
lift of 6mm at 4mm/s, so it takes a few
more seconds to lift the platform clear
of the FEP and then reposition it for
the next layer. The platform returns
to a point that is higher by the layer
thickness, to allow the next layer to
be printed.
After the printing sequence, the
platform is moved upwards, although
items close to the Mono’s height limit
might not clear the resin vat. The
printed object can be left to allow any
excess uncured resin to drip for a few
minutes.
Fig.3: these small, inexpensive UV nail lamps
work well for the final curing step. As with any
UV source, we recommend wearing eye protection
while using such devices.
the bed, any supports are removed;
that is usually enough for most
designs.
For a resin printer, the part needs
to be removed from the platform and
then any excess liquid resin must
be rinsed off by solvent washing
and possibly mechanical cleaning.
After removing the supports, the part
undergoes further UV exposure to
ensure that the resin is fully cured
and hardened.
Not only are there more steps, but
they are also much messier due to the
sticky liquid resin. Anycubic also sells
a ‘wash and cure’ machine, which can
help with some of these steps.
It’s at this point that gloves are
needed. An organised (and, if possible,
spacious) workspace is imperative, as
you do not want to be moving things
around while wearing sticky gloves.
We recommend employing a large
work area with a lip (to contain liquid resin) to remove the part from the
platform, alongside two containers of
cleaning solvent and next to another
open area where clean parts can be
placed to dry.
We kept the Mono on a large plastic tub lid to provide a ‘catchment’
for leaks. It certainly helped with the
occasional drip while removing parts
Post-processing
from the printer.
One crucial way the resin 3D printThe most common arrangement uses
ing process differs from filament two tubs of cleaning solvent. One is
3D printing is in the manual post- used for the first pass, to remove the
processing steps. For a filament 3D bulk of the excess resin, and the secprinter, after removing the part from ond to finish. The solvent from the
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Silicon Chip
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second tub can be recycled to be used
in the first step.
We’ve even seen some people use a
third tub to clean the platform, keeping it out of the way while the parts
are cleaned. So despite it being a small
machine, you’ll probably still need a
good amount of nearby space in which
to work.
To remove the printed part from the
printer, the screw on the platform is
loosened to detach the platform, and
the platform is rested on its edge. The
metal scraper can then be used to separate the part from the platform. Substantial force might be needed, potentially making this step messy if the
part flies off.
The part is placed in the first solvent
tub, which is agitated to remove the
uncured resin. It is then moved to the
second tub to remove any remaining
resin. It’s then placed on a flat surface to
allow the excess solvent to evaporate.
This last step is critical. It should be
left until no shiny spots remain. Resin
mixed with solvent stays sticky, even
after the next curing step, and can
only be removed with further solvent
processing.
Solvent options
We tried three different solvents.
While some people swear by isopropyl
alcohol, we found that they all were
quite capable of doing the job. Isopropyl alcohol was actually the last we
tried because it still appears to be in
short supply and, where available, it
siliconchip.com.au
least compared to the Anycubic resin.
It tended to end up with a slightly
yellow tint and did not seem to be as
dimensionally stable as the Anycubic resin. We suspect that is due to
the heating and expansion that occurs
during the UV curing process. Some
resins also expand as they solidify. On
the other hand, we found that this resin
needed slightly less exposure time, so
we could print a bit quicker with it.
The cured eSun resin also had a
very odd bluish cast in sunlight. We
suspect that is due to the photoreactive compounds present in the resin
fluorescing in the presence of UV light.
Resin exposure range finder
Fig.4: a sample print of the Resin exposure range finder (R_E_R_F) test file.
Different parts are printed with varying exposure times to hone in on the ideal
exposure setting. There are several different features to compare, and your choice
might depend on whether you are printing coarse or finely detailed objects.
is much more expensive.
We first tried methylated spirits
as it is the cheapest. It worked fine
for dissolving the leftover resin, but
leaves more residue that takes longer
to evaporate. We suspect this is due to
the additives or the small amount of
water usually present in methylated
spirits. Still, the results are satisfactory as long as the part is left to dry
completely.
We also tried acetone. It’s much
more aggressive than either of the other
two solvents and also evaporates quite
quickly. Being more aggressive, you
should ensure that your gloves can
withstand it.
Because it evaporates so quickly and
thus cools, we suspect that water was
condensing on the parts when it was
humid. That water needs to evaporate
before the part can be cured.
The isopropyl alcohol works much
the same as the methylated spirits,
although there’s a bit less residue and,
as we noted, is more expensive at the
time of writing.
fingernail polish and gels). They run
from USB power, and the style we purchased costs around $10 from a local
eBay seller, shown in Fig.3.
The UV lamp has collapsible legs
that can make it taller than small parts,
and the timer runs for about 60 seconds. We found that using this lamp
for a minute on each side of the part
was enough to cure it fully.
Resin choices
There are a rapidly growing number of resins now available. Apart
from the obvious choice of different
colours, different material properties
are also possible.
Many quote strength, density and
hardness, although the standard resins
often seem to be the strongest. Subjectively, we felt that the standard Anycubic resins gave the best results.
We tried the eSun eResin-PLA
from Jaycar, also in the clear variety, although it comes in a handful
of colours. It claims to be ‘low smell’,
and we found that to be the case, at
One of the files on the USB stick is
called R_E_R_F.pwmo (.pwmo is the
file type of the ‘sliced’ file used by the
Mono). This special file is used to help
calibrate the exposure time.
When this file is printed, different
parts are printed at different exposure
times to allow the optimum time to
be found. Fig.4 shows a sample print
of this file, and you can see that the
part at lower right is obviously underexposed.
Not as evident in the two adjacent
parts is that the small pillar features
are missing, so the optimum setting is
towards the middle of this print.
See the later panel for further discussion on what resins are available.
Software
At a bare minimum, you will need
to use the Photon Workshop software
to ‘slice’ models into a format suitable
for printing. There was a version on
the USB stick, but we downloaded a
later version, 2.1.24, from siliconchip.
com.au/link/abet
It’s common to work with .stl files,
but .obj model files are also supported,
as well as several sliced formats (see
Fig.5). We found this handy when trying a model from www.thingiverse.
com in the .obj format.
Curing
The last step is to use UV light to
fully cure the resin. The wash and cure
machine has a turntable that evenly
exposes the part to UV light, but we
found that simply leaving the part
outside in the sun for half an hour,
while turning it over occasionally,
was adequate.
We also tried a small UV lamp of the
type sold as a UV nail lamp (for curing
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.5: raw mesh files in .stl and .obj formats can be loaded into Photon
Workshop, as can pre-sliced files of the various types shown. Loading pre-sliced
files will not give as many printing options, as you cannot change aspects such
as the layer height.
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July 2022 45
Fig.6: the Photon Workshop application, showing a 3DBenchy loaded. The 3DBenchy test object (by www.creativetools.
se) can be downloaded from www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622 At left are the various transforms that can be applied to
rotate, move and scale objects, while the slicer settings are at right. Supports can be created using a second tab on the right.
If you are designing your own files
for printing on a filament 3D printer,
much the same process will apply,
except for using a different slicer program. For example, we use OpenSCAD
to design .stl files for filament printing,
and you could use those same .stl files
on the Mono.
As long as you can export .stl files
from your 3D design package, you can
import these into Photon Workshop.
Fig.6 shows the Photon Workshop software. Most of the transform
options on the left will be familiar to
those who have used a slicing program
from filament 3D printers. These allow
loaded objects to be rotated, sized,
moved and adjusted.
At right are the exposure and printing settings. The program defaults to
two-second exposures for 0.05mm layers, but we mostly used five-second
exposures with 0.1mm layers to speed
up printing slightly. Note how the
time more than doubles going from
0.05mm to 0.1mm, presumably due
to the UV light being attenuated as it
passes through thicker layers.
We also did some prints with much
thicker layers to improve the printing
time and found that 0.3mm per layer,
with around 15s exposure, tended to
be the limit. After this, the lift and peel
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time becomes less significant.
In any case, 0.3mm is getting into
the layer heights commonly found on
filament printers, resulting in prints
with noticeable jagged layer artefacts
that begin to show the resin curing
unevenly.
Fig.7 shows a pair of test cubes, one
printed with a 0.3mm layer height and
the other with a 0.1mm layer height.
Resin printing specifics
Supports are common in filament
printing, but are used in a slightly
different way with resin printers.
The general advice is that all resin 3D
prints should use supports.
This is primarily due to the way that
parts adhere to the platform, but also
because of the high forces that occur
on each layer lift. Using supports
means that the part can be printed
on a detachable raft that can bear the
scraper’s brunt while the part is being
removed from the platform.
The raft can also be expanded to
provide a greater area to affix to the
platform, reducing the probability of
it detaching mid-print.
Another factor is that the first layers (by default, six with the Mono) are
overexposed to ensure good platform
adhesion. This means that they will
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tend to be over-dimensioned unless
compensation is made.
Using supports means that the
actual 3D model does not start until
these early layers have been printed,
meaning that they do not suffer from
overexposure.
There are some artefacts at the
points where the supports contact the
object, but we found that they snap off
quite cleanly, and a light touch with
sandpaper removes all traces.
Fig.8 shows a part with a raft and
supports; you can see how the supports taper to narrow points that make
for clean breaks.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.7: the left-hand cube was printed at 0.3mm layer height, while we
printed the right-hand cube with 0.1mm layers. The staircase effect is
much more pronounced at 0.3mm. Note how it is more prominent on
the top half of the object. This is due to the way that the resin cures
more the closer it is to the UV source, producing unevenness within
thick layers. The holes visible are part of the punch and hollow
features which can be used to reduce the amount of resin needed.
We should point out that while Photon Workshop can produce supports
and a raft, the ones shown in this image
were done by a separate program.
We tried PrusaSlicer from Prusa
Research (www.prusa3d.com). Prusa
Research has a substantial background
in filament printers, but they also
design and sell resin printers.
Importantly, PrusaSlicer can export
a 3D model (such as an .stl file) with
supports added, allowing the now-
supported model to be sliced by Photon Workshop. We just had to choose
an appropriate Prusa Research printer,
and the SL1 has a similar build size.
Fig.8: the narrowing of the support pillars near
where they join the model means they snap apart
easily. Removing supports from resin prints is easier
than on parts printed with a filament printer. It
isn’t evident that the raft has an angled edge, which
makes it possible to wedge the scraper underneath it
to help remove the part from the platform.
It might seem like an unnecessary
extra step, but we found that the supports broke off more cleanly, and it
was also a bit more intuitive to manually place support points using the
PrusaSlicer program.
Hollow and punch
In the world of filament 3D printing,
a partial infill is very common, with
figures around 25%, allowing parts to
be both light and strong. Various patterns are used, with trade-offs in print
speed, strength and, in some cases,
interior support.
With filament printing occurring
in the air, air fills the voids and it
is trapped when the top layers are
printed.
Since resin printing occurs under
the surface of a liquid resin bath,
empty spaces are liable to be left full of
the same. So the reasons and strategies
for infill treatment are very different
for resin printing; simply choosing an
infill option is not enough to guarantee a hollow part.
Both Photon Workshop and Prusa
Slicer have a “Hollow” option that
allows a wall thickness to be set, which
is simple enough, leaving the remaining space inside the model hollow.
Fig.9: the narrow pillars in this model
boat are 0.3mm in diameter. You can just make
out the 0.1mm layer lines below and the aliasing due to
the 0.051mm pixels. With such fine details, the extreme forces that
occur during each layer lift mean that such delicate parts must be designed
with care and with an appreciation for the printing process.
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July 2022 47
What resin is available?
There are quite a few different resins available to
use with the Anycubic Mono. The default type of resin
is sold by Jaycar and comes in a 500g bottle with
black, grey, clear, blue and green as available
colours (Jaycar Cat TL4425-9).
Anycubic also sells a more expensive, plantbased version (made from soybean oil) in 1kg
bottles. It’s marketed as having less odour and
shorter curing time at 50-60s exposure for the
bottom layer and 8-10s exposure for other layers. It comes in translucent green, clear, grey,
black and white colours, and it can be purchased online from websites such as Amazon.
Third-party resins
In terms of third-party resins, many should
work if they’re suited for DLP or LCD printing
and are rated with a UV wavelength around
410nm. We have only fully tested the eSun
range, which is available from Jaycar. They
sell a standard 1kg resin (Jaycar Cat TL44439), and PLA (polylactic acid) resin (Jaycar Cat
TL4433-9) which can be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. Both are available in red, yellow,
white, black, grey, blue (sky blue for the standard
resin) and clear.
There’s also a water-washable version, which has the highest density range
of the eSun resins, but in exchange has the lowest tensile strength (Jaycar
Cat TL4450-3).
Sadly they don’t list whether any of the above resins can be painted over,
as that can be a nice feature if you’re assembling a garage kit or similar. Your
best bet is to use clear resin when available as it should have less pigment,
making it easier to paint.
Monocure 3D from Australia also make resin that is suitable for the Photon Mono. You can find a list of compatible products on their website: https://
monocure3d.com.au/printers/photon-mono-x/
While not directly related to this printer, Formlabs have a very nice document
listing all the different types of resins they sell along with their specifications;
you can find this document at: siliconchip.au/link/abeu
You can also find a general guide on 3D printing by Formlabs at https://
formlabs.com/asia/blog/3d-printing-materials/
But the model then needs to have
holes added so that any liquid can be
drained out of the model after printing. It’s possible to leave the resin
inside, but that has no real advantage
over simply printing the model solid
in the first place.
Since some resins can expand on
curing, this could cause the model
to swell and rupture if curing continues later.
The “Punch” option adds holes,
and they are simply placed by clicking on the model’s surface. More holes
should be better, to allow air to enter
and excess resin to leave, but they will
also mar the model’s surface.
Wall thicknesses of around 3mm are
the default, with a similar size for the
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Silicon Chip
punched holes. The test cubes shown
in Fig.7 were printed with 3mm walls
and 3mm punched holes to test these
features out.
Draining the liquid resin from a
model is another messy step that is
added to the process, followed by the
need to rinse and drain the cleaning
solvent.
We think that if it makes sense for
you to print hollow objects, the best
results will come from designing them
to be hollow from the start. Most of the
objects that we printed were relatively
small, so the potential resin savings
were not worth the trouble and effort.
You’ll also find that objects printed
in clear resin will show the outline of
the hollowing, so there might also be
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cosmetic reasons why hollow objects
are undesirable.
Dimensionality
We found the dimensions of printed
objects to be very accurate, which is to
be expected when two of the dimensions are created from a fixed-sized
LCD screen, and the third is set by the
steps and pitch of a worm gear driven
by a stepper motor.
One test model we printed had a
5mm square hole and a series of different sized holes. We found that the
post had to be 4.9mm or smaller to fit
in the hole. This is around two pixels
of difference on the LCD screen!
Unsurprisingly, the pixels tend
to spread by a small amount. If they
didn’t, adjacent pixels wouldn’t merge
to become a solid object. But this effect
is relatively minor.
Fig.9 shows a printed model with
some fine details, including pillars
only 0.3mm across.
Of more serious concern are the
forces that distort an object as it is
printed. As we mentioned, there are
substantial forces involved as each
layer is lifted up and away from the
FEP film.
The fine pillars in Fig.9 have only
been printed successfully as they are
vertical and the handrail is horizontal. Such fine elements would probably not have printed well if they were
not aligned with the axes.
You could add supports to the side
of objects, but they will be of limited
use on such small objects.
We found that a good rule of thumb
was to align an object so that it has
a long vertical axis. Such alignment
ensures a small footprint and thus suffers less lifting forces. This will also
tend to result in the longest printing
time.
On a similar note, we found that thin
sheet-like areas (even vertical) did not
always print well. We suspect that the
lifting forces cause stretching, leading
to deformation as subsequent layers
are printed and joined together.
One upside of the whole layer being
printed simultaneously is that multiple objects can be printed in the same
amount of time as a single object, provided they fit in the print area.
Impressions
At the time of writing, we’ve used
about three litres of resin, and the FEP
film is looking noticeably worn and
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scratched, although this doesn’t seem
to be affecting the print quality. Spare
FEP films for the Mono are available
(Jaycar Cat TL4502), as are complete
resin vats (Jaycar Cat TL4504).
The LCD screen used for projecting the UV image onto the resin is
also available as a spare part (Jaycar
Cat TL4506). We’ve heard figures of
around 1000 hours of operation before
replacement is needed; that works
out to about six weeks of continuous
printing.
It appears that the UV light eventually degrades the LCD to the point
that it no longer blocks the UV light
and needs to be replaced, although
we haven’t seen any signs of this
happening.
Resin printing with the Mono is simple enough, although it can sometimes
get messy. The resolution and detail
are impressive.
As you can see from our photos,
the finish of the prints is very matte
and almost has a texture like velour,
although the layer and pixel artefacts
might be visible, depending on the
lighting.
So models printed with the clear
resin will not have a glassy finish,
although a gloss lacquer can generally
improve transparency on clear models
and hide layer lines.
Summary
We’re impressed with the fine detail
that the Mono can produce and how
easy it is to use. Printing with it can
get quite messy, but with the proper
space and tools, it is manageable.
There are a few consumables
involved, and we suspect that the cost
of these will add up after a few years.
The print volume is smaller than
most filament 3D printers, but we
expect that the fine detail will appeal
to those making smaller miniatures
and other parts.
We’ve found at least one other use
for the Mono – see our panel on “3D
Printing PCBs… sort of” for more information. We suspect there are other UV
reactive substances (UV ink is one that
we know of) that might be used in combination with the Mono.
We haven’t tried it, but it might also
be a handy way to erase EPROMs in
a pinch!
As noted earlier, the Anycubic Mono
UV Photon resin 3D printer and select
spare parts are available from Jaycar
(www.jaycar.com.au/).
SC
siliconchip.com.au
3D Printing PCBs... sort of
We covered using 3D printers as part of a home workshop process to
make prototype PCBs in our “Modern PCBs – how they’re made” article from July 2019 (siliconchip.au/Article/11700).
That article mentioned techniques like printing a thin layer of filament
onto copper-clad fibreglass to act as an etch resist, or even directly
printing conductive filament onto a substrate.
But YouTuber Thomas Sanladerer demonstrates another use for a
resin 3D printer that actually comes very close to how the professional
PCB fabricators work at https://youtu.be/RudStbSApdE
The technique uses the 3D printer’s UV LCD to selectively cure the
photosensitive resist on a coated copper clad board, before the resist
is fixed, and then the board is etched in the usual fashion.
The results are both fast and remarkable. The photo below shows
his first test PCB using this technique. That video screenshot also
demonstrates the importance of the difference between positive and
negative resist boards!
He notes an exposure time of 60-90 seconds, although that will probably vary between printers and resist compounds.
Given that the Mono’s resolution in the horizontal plane is around
50μm, 10mil traces (which are about the minimum that we typically
design for) are about five pixels wide. In other words, it should be possible to create very fine PCB detail with this technique.
The trick is converting Gerber files into something that the slicer program can process for the printer. Our Making PCBs article has more
information about Gerber files.
We don’t have access to the software that Thomas uses. Still, it
appears that there are numerous ways to convert an image file to an
.stl file, including via several online tools, so it shouldn’t be an insurmountable obstacle.
Thomas also shows etching an image of a leaf onto a piece of copper-clad board, so it appears that there are many uses for this technique. With the existence of UV-curing inks, it may be possible to ‘print’
PCB silkscreen overlays too.
This is something we’ll be trying out soon. Perhaps it won’t be long
until we’re all making factory-quality PCBs ourselves!
YouTuber Thomas Sanladerer (https://youtu.be/RudStbSApdE) shows how
to use the UV LCD of a resin 3D printer to selectively cure photosensitive
resist, producing home-made PCBs. Like him, you will have to be careful of
the differences between positive and negative resist boards!
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2022 49
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e
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A
VG
to
a powerful, bu t simple ‘boot
BASIC’ computer
With the low-cost Raspberry Pi Pico board, a handful of standard components
and our new firmware, you can build this amazingly capable ‘boot to BASIC’
computer. It has a 16-colour VGA output, a PS/2 keyboard input, runs programs
from an SD card and can be built in no time. And it uses our popular fullyfeatured MMBasic interpreter.
A
fter the fun of building it,
you can have even more fun
writing programs to track your
expenses, teach children about computing, play simple computer games
and calculate the positions of the planets (to name a few possible activities).
‘Boot to BASIC’ computers were
popular in the early 1980s – think of
the Tandy TRS-80, Vic 20, Commodore
64 and 128, Apple II, Amigas and many
others. After turning them on, within
a fraction of a second, you have access
to the built-in BASIC language, where
you can test commands, then enter or
load a program and run it. The operating system is built-in.
Developing a program is fast and
stress-free. You use the editor to enter
the program into memory and run
it with one keystroke. If there is an
error in your program, you get a plain
English message pointing to the problem. With another keystroke, you will
be taken back into the editor with the
cursor placed on the line that caused
the error, ready to be fixed.
If this sounds familiar, that’s because
this computer is the latest of a series
that we have published over the years,
starting with the monochrome Maximite (March-May 2011; siliconchip.
com.au/Series/30) and including the
Colour Maximite 2 (July & August
2020; siliconchip.com.au/Series/348
and August & September 2021;
siliconchip.com.au/Series/368).
What sets this one apart is that it is
so simple. The Raspberry Pi Pico module costs less than $10, and with just
a few other components, you have a
fully working computer.
While it is simple, it does not lack
performance. It runs a dual-core 32-bit
CPU with a clock speed of up to
252MHz, has 103KB of program memory, a 640 x 480 pixel VGA output and
stores programs and data on standard
Words and MMBasic by Geoff Graham
52
Silicon Chip
SD cards. To put that into perspective,
it is about 100 times faster and more
capable than the Apple II computer
that was so popular in its heyday, yet
costs about 1/100th as much!
This firmware is derived from the
PicoMite firmware for the Raspberry
Pi Pico that we described in the January 2022 issue (siliconchip.com.au/
Article/15177). In this version, we
have removed the ability to drive LCD
panels and replaced it with the ability to produce a colour VGA signal.
Other than this, the two versions are
identical.
VGA output
The VGA output is generated within
the Raspberry Pi Pico, a considerable
feat for a low-cost processor without any specialised hardware for the
task. It is derived from work by Miroslav Nemecek in the Czech Republic,
ported by Peter Mather in the UK.
VGA PicoMite firmware by Peter Mather
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
The Raspberry Pi Pico (shown 50% larger
than real life) is a popular and cheap
microcontroller module with plenty of
memory, speed and I/O capability. With
our VGA PicoMite firmware, you can easily
program it in BASIC with a VGA monitor,
keyboard and SD card storage support and
access to all the Pico’s features.
The VGA signal is generated using
the second CPU in the RP2040 processor on the Raspberry Pi Pico plus
one PIO channel. Because of this, it
does not affect the performance of the
BASIC interpreter, which runs unimpeded at full speed on the first CPU.
The video signal is in the standard VGA format with a pixel rate of
25.175MHz and a frame rate of 60Hz,
so you get a stable video output that
is supported by all VGA monitors. In
monochrome mode, the resolution is
640 x 480 pixels, while in colour mode,
the pixels are doubled horizontally
and vertically to give an effective resolution of 320 x 240 pixels.
Regardless of the mode, the monitor
still receives a 640 x 480 pixel image,
and virtually all monitors support
this mode.
The colour mode uses four bits to
define the colour of each pixel, giving
a total of sixteen (24) colours (including black). One bit is assigned to red,
two bits for green and one bit for blue.
While this is not very good for displaying photographs, it is great for games,
graphs and brightening up the output
of your programs.
The graphics driver includes some
of the features of the Colour Maximite 2. So, in addition to drawing lines,
boxes, etc, you can also have multiple
fonts and create fast animations with
the BLIT command. You can load
images from the SD card for display on
the video screen, and you can save an
image of the current screen to the SD
card (ie, take a screenshot/screengrab).
The hardware to generate the VGA
signal only uses eight resistors and
two diodes to generate the correct
signal levels. These components can
be assembled on a piece of perforated
stripboard (eg, Veroboard), but we felt
that many people would like the convenience of building it on a PCB, so
we have designed a simple board that
includes the VGA output and the keyboard and SD card interfaces.
siliconchip.com.au
But, if you want to build it on an
extreme budget, the stripboard solution will work fine.
Keyboard and SD card
The VGA PicoMite firmware supports standard PS/2 keyboards. While
they are less popular today than USB
keyboards, there are still plenty to
be found, and many wired USB keyboards come with a PS/2 adaptor.
These work perfectly with the VGA
PicoMite. The keyboard is fully supported; auto-repeat and the arrow and
function keys work as expected.
The PS/2 standard uses 5V signal
levels, but the Raspberry Pi Pico is
strictly limited to a maximum of 3.6V,
so level shifting is required to interface the Pico with the keyboard. This
is done using four resistors and two
Mosfets. Like the VGA interface, this
could be built on a perforated stripboard if you do not want to use our PCB
(although it isn’t exactly expensive).
SD cards use 3.3V signal levels, so
they can connect directly to the Raspberry Pi Pico with no interface components required. The firmware supports
cards up to 32GB, formatted with a
FAT16 or FAT32 file system. MMBasic
supports long file names, hierarchical
folders etc. You can save, load and run
BASIC programs from the card as well
as read/write data files to it.
The file system is compatible with
Windows, Linux and macOS, so it
is easy to use an SD card to transfer
data back and forth between the VGA
PicoMite and a computer or laptop.
However, an SD card is not necessary as the firmware reserves eight
‘slots’ for BASIC programs in the Pico’s
flash memory. So you can save or
retrieve up to eight separate programs
there if you wish. If you are just casually playing with this computer, that
could be all you need.
Regardless, adding SD card support
is so easy that we have included it on
our PCB.
Australia's electronics magazine
The firmware supports many other
devices that can be connected, including infrared (IR) remote control receivers, stereo audio output, distance sensors, a real-time clock, temperature
sensors and so on. We did not clutter
up the PCB with these, but you can
easily connect external circuitry to the
40-pin header on the rear of the board.
These pins mimic the I/O pins on
the Raspberry Pi Pico (including the
VGA and keyboard connections), so
you can add almost whatever you want
via that connector.
MMBasic
None of this can work without the
firmware and MMBasic. We have
described MMBasic many times
before, so it is sufficient to say that it
is a full-featured version of the BASIC
computer language designed to be
easy to use.
As mentioned before, the firmware includes a built-in editor with
a colour-coded display plus support
for all the peripherals described above
(and more).
On the VGA PicoMite, programs can
be as large as 108KB. The amount of
RAM available for buffers, arrays, etc
is even larger at 140KB, so you can
have very large data arrays.
By default, the CPU runs with an
instruction clock of 126MHz, but
you can switch it to 252MHz. This is
‘overclocking’ the RP2040 processor
used in the Raspberry Pi Pico, which
has a specified top speed of 133MHz.
However, nearly all the Picos we have
tested run fine at this speed, so it is a
viable option if you want to go mad
with the performance.
One feature that will be appreciated
by people who played with the early
computers of the 1980s is that MMBasic saves the program to flash memory,
not RAM. When you edit a program,
it is saved to flash, and when you run
it, it runs from flash.
Because flash memory is non-volatile,
July 2022 53
you will not lose your program, even if
you accidentally restart the device or
interrupt the power – something that
happened distressingly often with the
early computers that stored programs
in volatile RAM.
Circuit details
Fig.1 is the straightforward circuit
of the VGA PicoMite. The VGA output from the Raspberry Pi Pico uses
six digital signals – one for red, two
for green, one for blue and one each
for horizontal and vertical synchronisation. For the red and blue signals,
the digital output levels are simply
clipped by the 1N4148 diodes to 0.7V,
the correct level for full brightness in
the VGA standard.
The green output also has a resistor
network providing four intensity levels from completely off to full brightness. The 200W multi-turn trimming
potentiometer lets you adjust for a
balanced white output without needing precision resistors with hard-tofind values.
The horizontal and vertical sync signals use standard TTL signal levels, so
they directly connect to the monitor.
The keyboard interface consists of
just two signals, the clock and the
data lines, which are bi-directional.
Each signal is level-shifted using two
resistors and a small 2N7000 Mosfet.
There are many ways to implement
level shifting, but this is cheap and
uses common components.
In the idle state, the outputs from
the Pico and the keyboard are pulled
high to 3.3V and 5V respectively, by
10kW pull-up resistors. When the Pico
wants to send a signal, it pulls its output low, causing the Mosfet to conduct
because its gate is held at +3.3V. This
means that the keyboard’s corresponding pin is also pulled low.
When the keyboard wants to signal,
it pulls its pin low, and that causes
the substrate diode in the Mosfet to
conduct and also pull the Pico’s corresponding pin low.
There is very little to the SD card
interface. All the SD card signal lines
connect directly to the Raspberry Pi
Pico as both the SD card and the Pico
use 3.3V logic signalling.
This SPI serial bus consists of four
signals:
• Chip select (CS), which is pulled
low by the Pico when it wants to
communicate.
• The clock, generated by the Pico.
• Master out slave in (MOSI), which
carries data from the Pico (the
master) to the card.
• Master in slave out (MISO), which
carries data from the card to the
Pico.
The card socket also has switches
to indicate when a card is inserted
and whether it is write-protected, but
these are not used to keep the maximum number of the Pico’s I/O pins
free. Instead, the card’s insertion and
removal are detected by ‘polling’ the
SD card (ie, periodically checking if
it is present).
The Raspberry Pi Pico itself is
powered via its micro USB connector, which provides 5V for the PS/2
Fig.1: the VGA PicoMite circuit mainly comprises the components necessary to convert the Raspberry Pi Pico’s
signal levels to that required by the PS/2 keyboard and VGA monitor. It could be assembled on a piece of perforated
stripboard, but the commercial PCB doesn’t cost that much, makes construction much easier and gives a more
professional-looking result.
54
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
keyboard. The output of the Pico’s
onboard 3.3V regulator is used to
power the processor and flash memory, and is also fed to the SD card.
For maximum flexibility, all 40 pins
on the Raspberry Pi Pico are routed to
the 40-way connector on the rear of
the PCB in the same configuration as
that used by the Pico. This makes it
easy to connect external devices using
jumper wires, as you can consult the
Pico pinout diagram and then select
the corresponding pins on the 40-way
connector.
Taking into consideration the I/O
pins reserved for the VGA output,
keyboard and SD card, there are still
14 I/Os available for interacting with
external circuitry.
Construction
The simplest way to source the
components is to purchase a kit from
the Silicon Chip Online Shop, which
includes everything except a power
supply and a case. But if you decide
to source the parts yourself, you might
have some difficulties due to current
shortages, especially with the VGA
and SD card connectors.
It can help to use a parts search site
like https://octopart.com to identify
suppliers that currently have stock of
a given part.
Populating the PCB is straightforward (see Fig.2). As usual, start with
the low-profile components and work
upward. Preferably, your soldering
iron should be temperature-controlled
and have a chisel or conical tip with
a diameter of 1.7mm or thereabouts.
You can get away with other sizes,
but some of the pads (for example, on
the VGA connector) are close together,
meaning a smaller tip will be easier
to use.
Note the choice of mounting a vertical or right-angle 2x20-pin header for
CON4 depending on whether you’re
using a case or not.
The SD card socket is surface-
mounted and, because you need space
to get your soldering iron close to it,
you should start with that. Begin by
applying a thin layer of flux paste on
all its pads. It has two small posts on
the underside that click into matching holes in the PCB to ensure perfect
alignment.
With the socket in position, solder
the two tabs on the right side of the
socket (viewed from the front) and
the five on the left side. Now that the
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List – VGA PicoMite
1 double-sided PCB coded 07107221, 124mm x 69mm
1 Raspberry Pi Pico
1 right-angle PCB-mount DE15 (VGA) socket (CON1) [TE Connectivity
1-1734530-1 or Multicomp SPC15430; Mouser, element14, RS]
1 right-angle PCB-mount 6-pin mini-DIN socket (CON2)
[Altronics P1106 or element14 1200113]
1 Hirose DM1AA-SF-PEJ(72) or DM1AA-SF-PEJ(82) SD card connector
(CON3) [Mouser, Digi-Key, element14, RS]
1 2×20-pin header, 2.54mm pitch (CON4) OR
1 2×20-pin right-angle box header, 2.54mm pitch (CON4)
(for installation in a case)
1 4-pin vertical short actuator tactile switch (S1)
[Altronics S1120 or element14 4511189]
1 200W multi-turn top-adjust trimpot (VR1)
[Altronics R2372A or element14 9353569]
2 2N7000 60V 200mA N-channel Mosfets, TO-92 (Q1, Q2)
2 IN4148 diodes (D1, D2)
1 100nF 50V+ multi-layer ceramic or MKT capacitor
Resistors (all through-hole 1/4W 5%)
4 10kW metal or carbon film resistors
7 220W metal or carbon film resistors
Optional parts
1 71 × 130 × 30mm grey ABS instrument case [Altronics H0376]
4 No.2 × 4-5mm self-tapping screws (if mounting PCB in case)
4 stick-on rubber feet or short tapped spacers with M3 machine screws
(if using PCB without case)
2 20-pin SIL headers, 2.54mm pitch (to make Pico module pluggable)
2 20-pin SIL header sockets, 2.54mm pitch (to make Pico module pluggable)
Kit: a mostly complete kit for the VGA PicoMite is available from the Silicon
Chip Online Shop (Cat SC6417
SC6417) for $35. It includes the PCB and everything
that mounts on it. You just need to add a USB power supply, keyboard,
monitor and optionally an SD card. This can be mounted in a case although
you’ll also need a different header for CON4 and some self-tapping screws.
Fig.2: assembling the VGA PicoMite is easy; just fit the parts as shown here,
starting with the lower-profile components and working up to the taller
ones. The diodes, Mosfets & Pico must be orientated correctly. The main
options to consider are whether you’re using headers for the Pico and the
type of connector you’re using for CON4.
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2022 55
The Raspberry Pi Pico can be
directly soldered to the PCB, or you
can solder pin headers to the Pico and
then plug this assembly into matching SIL header sockets soldered to the
PCB, as shown in the adjacent photo.
Using the sockets is the safest option
as you can then easily replace the
Pico if you suspect that it has been
damaged.
Housing the VGA PicoMite
If you want to house the VGA PicoMite in a box, the board is sized to fit in the
Altronics H0376 snap-together case. The Raspberry Pi Pico can be directly
soldered to the PCB, or you can solder pin headers to the Pico and then plug this
assembly into two matching 20-pin single-in-line (SIL) header sockets installed
on the PCB. Using headers means that you can easily replace the Pico if it fails.
socket is secured, you can solder the
nine pins on the rear. For each pin,
slide the tip of your iron over the solder pad towards the connector so that
the tip hits the connector’s pin. Within
half a second, the solder should magically flow around the pin, and you can
withdraw the iron.
If you get a solder bridge, don’t
worry and carry on with the other pins.
Finally, examine your soldering using
a powerful magnifier and check for any
bridges (especially to the connector’s
shield) and remove them using more
flux paste and solder wick.
Be careful here, as the solder wick
can suck up all the solder, so you
should recheck the joint after using it
(although it usually leaves a sufficient
amount behind).
We expect that most readers will
put rubber feet on the bottom of the
PCB and use it as is (‘naked’). Another
option for feet is tapped spacers via
the mounting holes.
Still, if you want to house it in a box,
the board is sized to fit in a small 71 x
130 x 30mm instrument case (Altronics H0376). Incidentally, this is the
same case that was used for the first
‘boot to BASIC’ computer we published, the original Maximite, back
in 2011.
If you are planning to house the
PCB in this, you can replace the vertical 40-way pin header on the rear of
the PCB with a right angle shrouded
IDC connector so that you can use a
ribbon cable to connect to any external circuits.
See Fig.3 for the front and rear panel‘s drilling diagram to suit the Altronics H0376 case.
Loading the firmware
Loading the firmware onto the Raspberry Pi Pico is quick and easy, thanks
to the bootloader built into the Pico.
All you need to do is hold down the
white button on the top of the Pico
while plugging its USB connector
into your computer. The Raspberry
Fig.3: use these front & rear
panel cutting diagrams/
templates to locate and size
the holes in the case. The
central cut-out in the front is
to plug a cable into the USB
socket on the Pico. Use the
upper, dashed cut-out if you’ve
mounted the Pico on headers.
Either way, it might need
enlarging depending on the
size of the plug on your USB
cable.
The distance between the
dashed cutout on the front
panel and the cutout below it
is 5mm.
56
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Pi Pico will appear as a pseudo USB
flash drive onto which you copy (eg,
drag and drop) the “PicoMiteVGA.uf2”
firmware file.
This will upload the file to the Pico
and program it into its flash memory.
Following this, the Raspberry Pi
Pico will drop the USB connection
and reconnect as a virtual serial port
over USB. But you can ignore that for
the moment, as it will also come up
driving the VGA output and looking
for an attached keyboard.
If you have a VGA monitor attached,
you will see the MMBasic copyright
message (as shown in Screen 1) and, if
you have a keyboard attached, you can
try typing in a command. For example, try “PRINT 2 + 2” and, unless your
computer failed kindergarten, it will
display the number 4.
The only adjustment needed is the
200W trimpot for the white balance.
To correctly set this, you should display a large area of white. You can do
this by entering the following line at
the command prompt:
CLS RGB(white)
This will clear the screen to a white
background, and you can then adjust
the trimpot for a neutral white colour
without a tint.
Fault finding
If you do not see anything on your
monitor after loading the firmware,
start by checking the green LED on
the top of the Raspberry Pi Pico. It
should be slowly flashing off/on with
a period of about a second and a half.
This indicates that the Pico is correctly
programmed with the firmware and is
running MMBasic.
If you do not see the LED flashing,
reprogram the Raspberry Pi Pico and
make sure that it completes successfully. Also make sure that you used
the VGA PicoMite firmware and not
the standard PicoMite firmware without the VGA capability – that will also
flash the LED but not provide the VGA
output.
If the Raspberry Pi Pico is OK, you
will then need to resort to standard
fault-finding procedures. Carefully
check all solder joints with a magnifier, look for solder bridges, check all
components and their values and make
sure that the orientations of the diodes
and Mosfets are correct.
It is also worth checking your monitor, keyboard and connecting cables.
siliconchip.com.au
PicoMiteVGA MMBasic Version 5.0.7.04b8
Copyright 2011-2021 Geoff Graham
Copyright 2016-2021 Peter Mather
>
Screen 1: after loading the firmware, the VGA PicoMite will restart, activate the
VGA output and look for an attached keyboard. With a VGA monitor connected,
you will see this copyright message, and if you have a keyboard attached, you
can try typing in a command or two.
Do they work with other devices? The
cables can be a problem; in the past,
some constructors have been baffled by
the lack of video only to discover that
their VGA cable was faulty.
SD card
The VGA output and keyboard interfaces automatically operate after the
firmware is installed, but the interface to the SD card needs to be configured before it can be used. This is
done with the following command,
entered on one line at the MMBasic
command prompt:
OPTION SDCARD GP13, GP10,
GP11, GP12
This tells the firmware that the SD
card socket is connected and what
I/O pins are used for chip select (CS),
clock, MOSI and MISO respectively.
Entering this option will cause the
VGA PicoMite to reboot, but from then
on, the setting will be remembered,
even after power off. So you only have
to enter it once.
After setting it up and inserting an
SD card, you can test it by entering the
command “FILES” at the prompt, and
it should list the files and directories
found on the card. If you had a BASIC
program on the SD card, you could
load it with the command:
LOAD "filename"
Then, if you edit it within MMBasic, you can save it back to the SD card
with the command:
SAVE "filename"
The double quotes around the filename are required – you will get an
error if they are not used.
As mentioned earlier, the SD card
is not strictly necessary. The firmware
reserves eight ‘slots’ in the Raspberry
Pi Pico’s flash memory for program
storage on the chip.
So, if you have entered a program,
you could save it into (for example)
slot 6 with the command “FLASH
Australia's electronics magazine
SAVE 6”. Later, you can load it
back into program memory with the
“FLASH LOAD 6” command.
What next?
To get a feel for the VGA PicoMite,
you can enter the following short
program. Start the process with the
“EDIT” command. This is described in
the user manual but, for the moment,
all that you need to know is that in the
editor, anything that you type will be
inserted at the cursor, the arrow keys
will move the cursor and backspace
will delete the character before the
cursor.
At the command prompt, type EDIT
followed by the Enter key. The editor
should start up, and you can type the
following four lines:
DO
INPUT "What is your name?
", N$
PRINT "Hello, " N$
LOOP
Then press the F1 key on the keyboard. This tells the editor to save
your program and exit to the command prompt. At the command
prompt, type RUN and press the
Enter key.
Your new computer should ask for
your name, and when you type it in
(followed by the Enter key), it will
reply with a greeting. To break out of
the program and return to the prompt,
press Ctrl-C.
There you are; you have just written and run your first program on the
VGA PicoMite. If you type EDIT again,
you will be taken back into the editor,
where you can change or add to your
program.
You will probably have many questions at this point, and we have written a detailed user’s manual to answer
them. You can download this for free
from the Silicon Chip website or the
author’s web page (https://geoffg.net/
picomitevga.html). It should cover
everything that you need to know.
July 2022 57
If you are new to BASIC programming, open up this manual and check
out Appendix G (Programming in
BASIC – A Tutorial) near the end. This
comprehensive tutorial on the language will take you through the fundamentals of programming in BASIC
in an easy-to-read format with lots of
examples. When you have finished,
you will be a ‘gung-ho’ BASIC programmer!
Tetris
To test out this new computer, we
decided to write a program to play the
game of Tetris. Tetris is well-known
and has been ported to over 65 platforms, a Guinness world record.
We were hoping to make it 66, but
it turns out that the name and the
game are copyrighted, so we developed something similar that we called
Blocks, which we believe is just as
much fun to play – see Screen 2. It is
not a huge program (about 475 lines),
and it uses just the basic graphics commands (line, box etc), so there is nothing special here.
Anyone could program this game
with a bit of familiarity with BASIC,
and you can easily dig into the code
to see how it works.
On the VGA PicoMite, Blocks runs
very fast, and it uses only 15% of the
available program memory. This illustrates the capability of this little computer and underlines the fact that you
can aim big with it, and it will not let
you down.
The Blocks program is included in
the VGA PicoMite firmware download so all you need to do is copy it
to an SD card, then transfer that card
to the VGA PicoMite and enter the
command:
RUN "Blocks.bas"
Screen 2: Blocks is a BASIC game that runs on the VGA PicoMite. It is colourful
and fast, and it uses only 15% of the available program memory, so you can
have fun adding to it if you wish. It will also run on the Colour Maximite 2.
Screen 3: The output of the “Colours.bas” program, included with the VGA
PicoMite firmware download. It shows all the colours the VGA PicoMite can
generate. Run it on your computer to see the true colours as the printing press
cannot reproduce all the colours accurately.
58
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
Incidentally, Blocks will also run
on the Colour Maximite 2, so if you
have built that computer, you can try
playing it on that.
There are two additional programs
in the firmware download package.
The first is “Fonts.bas”, which will
display the various fonts that come
built into MMBasic on your monitor.
This is handy when you are writing
a program and need to select a suitable font.
The second program is called
“Colours.bas” and it displays all 16
colours that the VGA PicoMite can
generate on the monitor, including
the codes to use in your BASIC program. Screen 3 shows what its output
looks like, but the printing press will
not accurately reproduce the colours,
so run it on your VGA PicoMite to see
the true set of colours.
So there you have it, one of the simplest ‘boot to BASIC’ computers possible. To keep up with firmware updates,
including early ‘beta’ releases, check
out the author’s website at https://
geoffg.net/picomitevga.html
It’s also a good idea to visit the Back
Shed forum (see www.thebackshed.
com/forum/Microcontrollers) where
there are many MMBasic fans swapping ideas and offering help to newcomers.
SC
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By Charles Kosina
Features & Specifications
Usable frequency range: DC to 100MHz
Input & output impedance: 50W
Attenuation range: 0dB to -110dB in 1dB
steps up to 2MHz; reduced maximum
attenuation at higher frequencies (see Fig.2)
Attenuation error:
typically ≤0.5dB (see Fig.1)
Power supply: 5V/100mA
Fits in the same diecast case as the AM/FM
Signal Generator from last month
0-110dB RF
Attenuator for
Signal Generators
This Attenuator was designed to accompany my recently published AM/FM
Signal Generator design (May 2022; siliconchip.au/Article/15306). However,
you could combine it with just about any signal generator to provide easy
output level adjustment over a wide range.
W
e often need a very low amplitude RF signal to test, align
or adjust a radio. Unless you buy
an expensive signal generator, the
chances are that your generator’s output level is far too high for such a task.
My recent AM/FM Signal Generator design has an output near 0dBm,
which translates to about 220mV into
a 50W load. To reduce this to 1µV RMS
(eg, for testing a radio’s sensitivity), we
need 107dB of attenuation.
The simplest way to achieve this is
to buy off-the-shelf fixed attenuators.
These are available from 1dB to 40dB
and cost about $5 each. They have
SMA connectors on either end, and
you screw them together to give the
required attenuation.
Variable digital attenuators are also
available, as reviewed by Silicon Chip
last year (October & November 2021;
siliconchip.com.au/Article/15067 &
siliconchip.com.au/Article/15100).
These have a maximum attenuation
of about 30dB and can be adjusted in
small steps, eg, 1dB or 0.5dB. Combining one of these with a few fixed
62
Silicon Chip
attenuators is one possible solution.
However, I decided to design my
own attenuator as it is pretty straightforward; it’s basically just a string of
fixed attenuators, each consisting of
three resistors, selected in combinations using relays. This works fine at
low frequencies, eg, below 2MHz, but
once we get much higher than that, the
signal will sneak through by various
paths to make a 1µV output difficult
to achieve.
Does this Attenuator achieve such a
task? Yes and no. At 2MHz and below,
the maximum attenuation is 110dB,
but once we get to 75MHz, the attenuation is only 81dB. So for a 0dBm
input, the lowest output level is 20µV
RMS. However, adding one fixed 30dB
attenuator to its output lets us get to
110dB and still gives quite a bit of
adjustment range, so I consider that
reasonably good.
This is because, at higher frequencies, stray capacitance and inductance
become more significant. In addition,
circuit board tracks act as antennas and
radiate energy that is picked up further
Australia's electronics magazine
downstream in the attenuator string.
Professional signal generators with
attenuators use extensive internal
shielding to reduce such effects. For
home-built equipment, this is somewhat impractical. That is why I did
not build the Attenuator into the Signal Generator but rather in a separate
diecast aluminium enclosure. There
is far too much RF floating around
in the signal generator which would
make it difficult to isolate the attenuator section.
Fig.3 shows the attenuator circuit.
The signal is fed in via CON4 then
passes through ten switched attenuator sections using DPDT relays RLY1
to RLY10 before reaching output connector CON5. These sections attenuate
by 1dB, 2dB, 3dB, 5dB, 10dB (twice)
and 20dB (four instances).
The ideal resistance values for these
attenuators are not in the standard
range, so I have chosen the closest
standard values, resulting in slight
inaccuracies.
With a relay de-energised, the signal
just passes through the normally-closed
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List – 110dB RF Attenuator
1 double-sided plated-through PCB coded CSE211003,
76 x 95.5mm
1 diecast aluminium enclosure, 119 x 93.5 x 34mm
[Jaycar HB5067 or Altronics H0454]
1 5V 100mA+ regulated DC power supply (eg, USB
charger with adaptor cable)
1 0.96in OLED screen module with I2C interface and
SSD1306 controller (OLED1)
1 mechanical rotary encoder with integrated pushbutton
switch and 20mm total height (RE1) [eg, Bourns
PEC11R-4215F-S0024]
10 EC2-5NU DPDT 5V coil relays (RLY1-RLY10)
1 10μH axial RF inductor (L1)
1 28-pin DIL IC socket (optional, for IC1)
1 PCB-mount DC barrel socket with 2.1mm or 2.5mm
inner pin diameter (CON1)
1 2-pin, 2.54mm pitch polarised header and matching
plug with pins (CON2)
1 3-pin, 2.54mm pitch polarised header (CON3) ●
2 SMA edge connectors (CON4, CON5)
2 2x3-pin header (CON6; optional, for programming IC1)
1 4-way female header socket (CON7; for OLED1)
1 large knob to suit EN1
4 12mm-long M3 tapped metal spacers
2 10mm untapped spacers
sets of contacts. If it is energised, the
signal instead passes through the resistive attenuator section.
A rotary encoder is used to adjust
the amount of attenuation required,
in either 1dB or 5dB steps, toggled by
pressing the encoder’s integral pushbutton switch. The firmware in the
ATMega168 or ATMega328 microcontroller translates the attenuation to
switch in the appropriate set of relays.
For example, to select 35dB, relays
3, 6 and 7 would be energised. To prevent relays chattering while the shaft
encoder is turned, there is a short delay
after the number is selected before the
appropriate relays are turned on and
off. Each relay’s coil is switched using
a small signal Mosfet.
You might have noticed that there
are no diodes to absorb the backEMF of the relay coils at switch-off at
Fig.1: the attenuation settings are very accurate at low
frequencies down to about 90dB, with a maximum error of
only 1dB. The +0.5dB blip between 6dB and 8dB could be
due to measurement error.
siliconchip.com.au
4 M3 x 6mm panhead machine screws
4 M3 x 8mm countersunk head machine screws
2 M2 x 16mm or M2.5 x 16mm panhead machine screws
and nuts (to match OLED mounting holes)
4 M3 flat washers
Semiconductors
1 ATmega168 or ATmega328 8-bit microcontroller
programmed with CSE211003.hex, DIP-28 (IC1)
1 LP2950-3.3 or similar 3.3V LDO regulator, TO-92 (REG1)
10 PMV15UNEA, PMV19XNEA or similar avalancherated N-channel Mosfets, SOT-23 (Q1-10) [Mouser Cat
771-PMV15UNEAR or element14 Cat 3268027]
2 2N7000 N-channel Mosfets, SOT-23 (Q11-Q12) ●
Capacitors (SMD 0805 6.3V+ X7R ceramic unless stated)
1 10μF M3216/1206-size
1 1μF
4 100nF
3 10nF
Resistors (all SMD M2012/0805 1% thick film)
5 18kW
2 4.7kW
1 1kW ●
2 820W
2 470W
2 270W
4 220W
2 180W
4 100W
2 68W
8 56W
1 33W
1 18W
1 12W
1 5.6W
● omit if the debugging interface is not needed
SC6420 kit ($75): a short form kit is available that
includes most parts. See page 106 for more details.
switch-off. This is a bit unusual, but it
does cut back on the number of components. This only works if the Mosfets are rugged enough to withstand
the voltage spikes caused by the relay
coil magnetic fields dissipating. See
the section below on “Avalanche-rated
Mosfets” for more details on this.
As with my other designs, I have
added a simplified RS-232 interface
for debugging using Mosfets Q11 and
Fig.2: the actual attenuation for a selected value of 110dB
between 2MHz and 75MHz. As the signal frequency
increases, parasitic capacitances on the circuit board result
in more of the input signal leaking through to the output.
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2022 63
Q12. These may be omitted unless you
plan to use that interface.
The Attenuator is powered from a
standard 5V DC mobile phone charger
(or other USB power source). While
this could be obtained from an output socket on the Signal Generator,
I decided to use a separate supply to
reduce potential RF leakage. You will
note that the photos show an additional DC socket. This is for powering
64
Silicon Chip
an external amplifier that was used for
measurement.
Inductor L1 is in series with the
incoming supply to further reduce any
outside RF. This seems to be effective
as powering it from a battery of three
AA cells made no measurable difference in readings.
The same 0.96in SSD1306-based
OLED screen is used to display the
attenuation value as in the Signal
Australia's electronics magazine
Generator. A 3.3V regulator generates
the OLED supply rail. The I2C interface
requires pull-up resistors to +3.3V. As
the SDA and SCL outputs on PC4 and
PC5 of IC1 are open drain, there is no
problem with the 5V-powered micro
interfacing with the OLED.
I chose NEC EC2-5NU relays. They
are DPDT types with 5V DC rated
coils. These are readily available and
have good isolation. The measured
siliconchip.com.au
capacitance between open contacts
is 1pF, which does not sound like
much. Still, the reactance at 75MHz
is -j × 2122W, which is effectively in
parallel with the 220W resistor in the
20dB sections, slightly reducing the
attenuation.
The measured attenuation tracks
the set attenuation fairly closely at
2MHz and below, as is shown in Fig.1.
I took these readings with the tinySA
spectrum analyser. The noise floor of
the tinySA is about -90dBm, so I used
a 30dB low-noise amplifier (LNA) to
measure down to -110dBm. The measured value varied slightly on each
pass, so I averaged several readings.
Once the frequency gets above
2MHz, the accuracy drops off, and
Fig.2 shows the maximum attenuation
achievable up to 75MHz. To get a lower
signal level at the higher frequencies,
Fig.3: the entire circuit of the
110dB Attenuator. The main
section consists of 10 switched
attenuators, each made from
three resistors, one relay (RLY110) and one Mosfet (Q1-Q10) to
drive the relay. The transistors
are driven by microcontroller
IC1, which also monitors the
rotary encoder and pushbutton,
and communicates with the
OLED to show the current
attenuation setting.
you will need to put a fixed 30dB attenuator on the unit’s output.
Avalanche-rated Mosfets
Avalanche-rated Mosfets (such as
those specified in the parts list) must
be used to ensure longevity. This is
easy to check by searching the device
data sheet for the avalanche energy rating (usually expressed in mJ).
When a Mosfet’s drain-source rating
voltage is exceeded, it can enter avalanche breakdown, similar to a zener
diode. In this mode, the channel conducts current until the voltage drops.
The problem with this is that a typical Mosfet is made of many (usually
thousands of) cells, and there’s no
guarantee that each cell will break
down at the same voltage. That means
the energy may pass through a very
small proportion of the Mosfet area,
causing intense local heating and possibly failure.
Also, the avalanche current is not
conducted through the normal channel
but rather through a ‘parasitic bipolar
transistor’ formed by two semiconductor junctions within the Mosfet. This
also has the effect of concentrating the
current into a smaller area than usual.
Avalanche-rated Mosfets solve this
by two methods. Firstly, they are
designed and manufactured in such a
way to minimise the variation in breakdown voltages between individual
cells so that the current is spread out.
Secondly, after being manufactured,
they are tested by being forced into
avalanche breakdown with a pulse
of energy at least as high as specified
in the data sheet. Any ‘weak’ devices
that cannot handle this fail and are
discarded. Only the survivors go on
to be sold.
We’ve calculated the energy pulse
from the relay coils in this design at
around 1mJ. The Mosfets we have
specified have single-pulse ratings of
around 15mJ. They only need to handle one pulse every few seconds, so
this should be well within their capabilities. If substituting Mosfets, choose
types with a minimum avalanche rating of 10mJ.
For more information about this
topic, see the excellent PDF from
Infineon at siliconchip.com.au/link/
abdb
Construction
The unit is built into a standard aluminium diecast box, available from
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2022 65
Fig.4: the front panel label for the Attenuator. The number and size of cutouts
have been minimised to prevent RF leakage into or out of the case.
Fig.5: luckily, there aren’t too many holes that need to be cut in the diecast case.
They can all be drilled, except for the rectangular OLED hole. There are various
ways to make that; just be sure to do it slowly to avoid it becoming jagged or
oversized.
66
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
Jaycar and Altronics (the same one
used for the recently-described AM/
FM Signal Generator). It’s best to prepare this before assembling the PCB.
I sprayed mine black to improve its
appearance.
I printed the label (Fig.4) on
photographic paper and added a
1.5mm-thick protective clear polycarbonate sheet on top, cut to the same
size as the label. You can download
this artwork from siliconchip.com.au/
Shop/11/6419
The PCB attaches to the inside of the
case using 12mm threaded spacers. If
you can’t get these, use 10mm threaded
spacers with an added nut to extend
them to 12mm. I also sprayed the
screws through the front panel black
to improve the overall appearance.
The required cutouts in the enclosure are shown in Fig.5. For best accuracy, locate the reference point in
the bottom left and drill this to 3mm
diameter. Then attach the blank PCB
to use as a template. Square it up, drill
the opposite corner and secure it with
another screw. Now drill the other
mounting holes.
The encoder location on the PCB
has a small hole in the centre on the
PCB. Drill the panel through this using
a 1.5mm diameter drill bit, then drill
holes in the case corresponding to the
four OLED mounting holes to 2.5mm.
Remove the PCB and enlarge the
hole for the shaft encoder to 14mm
siliconchip.com.au
diameter. It needs to be that large so
that the PCB can be manoeuvred into
position. Increase the size of the OLED
mounting holes to 4mm and use the
outside of these to mark the cutout
needed.
How you make the cutout depends
on the equipment and skills that you
have. Perhaps the simplest approach
is to drill a series of reasonably small
(say 3-4mm) holes around the inside
of the perimeter. Join these with a file
until the centre part drops out, then
use a larger flat file to smooth the edges
until they are straight and the hole is
just large enough.
Finally, drill two 7mm holes for the
SMA connectors on the front and a
hole for the DC connector on the back.
There is not much room for this connector; it should be 7mm up from the
bottom of the case. I also placed a small
toggle switch next to the DC connector for the power, but that is optional.
PCB assembly
Most of the components mount on
a double-sided PCB coded CSE211003
that measures 76 x 95.5mm. Fig.6
shows where the parts go.
The resistors and capacitors
are mostly SMD M2012/0805 or
M3216/1206 size, while the transistors
are in SOT-23 packages. Solder all the
SMDs first, followed by the throughhole components, then the SMA connectors, and the rotary encoder last.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.6: the resistors, capacitors and Mosfets all come in SMD packages but
are pretty easy to solder. The micro, regulator, relays, headers and rotary
encoder are through-hole parts. Fit all the SMDs first, then the through-hole
parts from lowest profile to tallest, with the edge connectors last. Be careful
to orientate the microcontroller and regulator as shown.
There are options for other 3.3V
regulators if the LP2950-3.3 regulator
is not available. Some have different
pinouts, so check this if substituting.
If your replacement regulator has a
reversed pinout, you can mount it on
the opposite side of the board.
The OLED screen plugs into a 4-pin
socket strip. Although four mounting
holes are provided, attaching it with
two screws and two 10mm spacers is
adequate.
The holes in the OLED may be
either 2mm or 2.5mm, so use either
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M2 x 16mm or M2.5 x 16mm machine
screws and nuts.
Using it
It’s about as easy as it gets. Simply power the unit up, use the rotary
encoder to dial in the amount of attenuation required while checking the
screen display, then ensure your input
and output cables are connected to the
correct sockets. Remember that pushing down on the rotary encoder knob
switches between adjustment steps of
1dB and 5dB.
SC
July 2022 67
Review by John Clarke
Solar Charger Controller
from Oatley Electronics
Oatley Electronics (www.oatleyelectronics.com) has two new
solar packages suitable for charging 12V and 24V lead-acid
batteries. These can be used to maintain battery charge where
mains power is not available, or as the basis of a solar power
supply system for lighting or other low-voltage loads.
F
or the 12V package, you get a
single 16W solar panel, while
for the 24V package, two 16W
solar panels are included. These two
panels, connected in series, form a
24V, 32W equivalent panel. The same
solar charge controller is included in
either package, and it operates with
either 12V or 24V batteries and matching solar panels.
Both packages include 5m of
15A-rated figure-8 wire to connect the
battery to the load and/or extend the
solar panel wiring.
The pricing of both kits is very reasonable, as detailed at the end of this
article. The charger itself is only suitable for lead-acid batteries such as
flooded cell (standard liquid acid),
absorbed glass mat (AGM) or gelled
acid (gel cell/SLA) types. However,
note that some lithium-based rechargeable batteries claim to be directly compatible with lead-acid chargers.
Possibly the most pressing need
for a solar charger is to maintain the
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Silicon Chip
charge in batteries that see infrequent
use. If a lead-acid battery is left to
self-discharge over time, its life will
be reduced, and it can be permanently
damaged.
Where available, you can use a
mains-powered trickle charger to
maintain the charge, although it will
draw power from the mains all the
time. In more remote places, using
mains power is either inconvenient,
dangerous or non-existent. Solar
charging is more practical there, especially on boats, in sheds, on farms, and
at campsites.
Even for locations where mains
power is available, the long-term cost
of using a solar charger is likely lower
than paying for mains power. This
system doesn’t cost much more than
a mains-powered trickle charger, but
there is no ongoing cost. Each 1W of
continuous power drawn from the
mains adds up to 8.76kWh per year
or around $3 at current prices.
One practical use for the solar
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charger is to maintain the charge in
a vehicle battery when it is not used
often or stored for an extended period.
That includes classic and vintage vehicles, farm tractors, ride-on petrol mowers (especially when unused during a
drought) or spare vehicles.
When used as a solar lighting system or for any other application where
power is being drawn from the battery,
the solar charger includes features to
prevent discharging the battery to the
point where its life will be reduced.
This includes dusk-to-dawn operation (suiting outdoor lighting) with
a timer and an adjustable switch-off
voltage when the battery is deemed
discharged.
The battery capacity used with this
system (measured in amp-hours [Ah])
needs to be considered based on the
power that will be drawn from it over
the day and night, and the number
of days in a row that available solar
power might be insufficient to recharge
the battery.
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The solar panel(s)
The supplied solar panel consists
of an aluminium frame surrounding
amorphous poly-crystalline solar cells
sealed within a clear glass cover. These
TUV NORD BL16P-12 panels measure
355 × 355 × 25mm and weigh 1544g.
The maximum power output is 16W
in full sunlight at 1000W/m2.
At least with these solar panels,
you know you are getting what you
expected; we’ve published multiple
letters from readers who purchased a
panel rated at a particular power level
when they could never achieve that!
We’ve tested these, and they actually
exceed their specifications.
Their electrical specifications are
an open-circuit voltage of 21.6V and
a short circuit current of 0.97A. These
two parameters are easily measured
using a multimeter. The short-circuit
current is measured by setting the multimeter to measure current and connecting the probes to the solar panel
leads. The open-circuit voltage is a
simple voltage measurement between
the wires. Both are measured in full
sunlight.
Maximum power from the panel
is specified as 18V and 0.89A (18V
× 0.89A = 16.02W). The solar panel
is supplied with a 650mm length of
dual-core cable attached.
Fig.1 shows the power curve for the
solar panel. The red curve is the quoted
specifications, while the blue curve is
what we measured at midday in early
April. The sample panel produced
17.6W, 10% higher than the specified
16W. It could produce a bit less on a
sweltering day, so that is likely why
the rating is conservative.
For the type of solar charger supplied, the usable power region of the
panel is shown shaded. This covers
the region where the panel is used to
charge a battery from near-flat to full
charge. So with these packages, the
maximum power available from the
panel is between 10.1W (at 11V) and
13.5W (at 15V), assuming the panel
follows the specified curve. Power
and voltage is doubled for two series-
connected panels for 24V use.
Note that if a (presumably more
expensive) maximum power point
tracking (MPPT) charger were used, it
would maintain the operating point at
18V/36V to take full advantage of the
available power from the panel(s). But
for maintenance charging or applications where you’re going to plug in a
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the specified I/V curve for the supplied TUV NORD BL16P-12 panel
compared to our measurements, made in full sun in early April. The mauve
shaded area shows on which part of these curves the supplied charger will
typically operate.
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2022 69
Six screw terminals are available on the side of the solar charger module
for connecting solar panels, batteries and loads.
flat battery and come back days later,
it won’t make much difference.
Solar charge controller
This controller is quite small at
133.5 × 70 × 35mm and very light at
130g. Its model code is W88-C. The
controller automatically detects and
operates with either a 12V or 24V
battery.
As mentioned above, this is not an
MPPT controller. Instead, it connects
the solar panel to the battery using
two paralleled Mosfets driven using
pulse-width modulation (PWM). The
Mosfets are switched with a variable
duty cycle to maintain the required
battery voltage.
When a discharged battery is connected, the solar panel is connected
continuously to the battery until the
required end-point voltage is reached
(typically around 14.4V or 28.8V).
The duty cycle of the Mosfets is then
reduced to a point where this voltage
is maintained.
Two USB Type-A ports are provided,
rated at 5V <at> 2.5A total. But our tests
showed that the maximum current
that could be obtained before voltage
dropped below 4.5V was 600mA. The
short-circuit current is just 780mA. So
the 2.5A seems ‘optimistic’. Still, they
would be better than nothing if you
had a flat phone battery and no mains
power available.
As the two USB ports are connected
in parallel, if you are drawing 500mA
from one, you can’t really use the
other. Still, the second one might be
useful to plug in a small LED light
or similar.
Connections to the solar panel, battery and load are via screw terminals
along one side of the controller. The
battery must be connected first before
connecting the solar panel and load;
disconnection is done in the reverse
order.
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Silicon Chip
Reverse-polarity protection is
included for the solar charge controller, and it uses Mosfets instead of
diodes. These Mosfets are connected
as ‘ideal diodes’ with a low drain-tosource resistance (Rds) of less than
11mW, so there is minimal voltage loss
and heat produced. The same type of
Mosfet is used for the charging connection from the panel to the battery,
and the battery to the load.
Heat dissipation
The rear panel of the Solar Charger is
the heatsink for the six Mosfets. These
are pressed against the steel rear panel
with adhesive thermal tape. This charger is likely to become very hot if used
at its full ratings, but with the 16W or
32W panels supplied, the temperature
rise is negligible, even with 10A drawn
via the load connection.
User interface
A small LCD screen (34 × 22mm)
shows the battery voltage at the top
with solar panel, battery and load discharge icons below. An arrow between
the solar panel icon and battery icon
flashes during charging. Similarly, an
arrow between the battery and load
(shown as a light bulb) appears when
the load is on.
The battery voltage is shown to the
nearest 100mV. The solar panel icon
shows when a panel is connected and
producing an output. The battery voltage icon is interesting in that it has five
bars to show the state of battery charge,
in addition to the voltage reading.
There are three push-button controls on the front panel for Menu,
Up and Down. The Down button also
doubles as a load on/off switch. The
display usually shows the battery
voltage and returns to this screen
automatically if the Menu button or
Up/Down buttons are not pressed
within five seconds.
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You can step through each menu
item by pressing the Menu button.
It cycles through the main display
(showing battery voltage), the full
charge voltage, the discharge reconnect voltage, the discharge disconnect
voltage, load connect timer options
(called the work mode) and finally,
the battery type.
To change any of these settings,
press the Menu button to access that
setting, then press it again and hold
it for ~5s until the value flashes. The
value can then be adjusted using the
Up or Down buttons. Another long
press of the Menu button is required
to store the new value.
Load output
While you could connect a load
directly to the battery, the load output on the charge controller provides
valuable features.
As mentioned, the load can be manually switched on and off with the
right-hand push-button except when
making adjustments, when this button
decreases the value. The maximum
current that can be drawn from the
load output is 10A.
The main feature is that this load
output will switch off the load when
the battery charge falls below a preset
voltage, thus saving the battery from
damage due to over-discharge. The
second feature is that the load can be
switched off with an adjustable timer
that starts counting down from dusk.
Full voltage
The full voltage setting is in the second menu and sets the voltage at which
you want the battery to stop charging.
Once the battery is charged up to this
voltage, it is maintained at that same
voltage. This is the only setting related
to charging voltage. The battery is initially charged at a rate determined
by the solar panel, until the battery
reaches the full voltage.
Typically the current needed to
maintain the charge termination voltage is just that required to counteract the self-discharge current of the
battery and any standby drain of the
charge controller. That amounts to
around 10mA.
The specifications for the full voltage default values (double that provided when using a 24V battery) are
somewhat confusing as they quote
these as equalisation voltages. The
default voltage is one of three values
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depending on the type of battery
selected. According to the user manual, they are for AGM batteries (B1),
initially set at 14.4V; gel cell batteries
(B2), initially set at 14.2V; and flooded
batteries (B3), initially set at 14.6V.
These voltages are too low for equalisation and are instead the full charge
voltages.
Typically, for equalisation, the
charge voltage would be increased
above 15V to ensure each cell in the
battery becomes fully charged. This
can produce a lot of gassing, so equalisation shouldn’t run very often. The
so-called ‘equalisation’ voltage mentioned appears to be a misnomer in the
user manual. The charger performs no
equalisation.
The full voltage for each battery type
mentioned above is adjustable. However, we found a discrepancy in the
B2 setting: we found that it was set
by default at 12.6V and could only be
adjusted downward from this to 11.5V,
but not above 12.6V. By contrast, the
B1 value could be adjusted between
14.4V and 13V and the B3 value from
14.6V to 13V.
So if you are using an SLA (gel) battery, it would be better to use the B1
or B3 selection and set the full charge
voltage to a more appropriate value like
14.2V. Note that the B1-B3 selections
do not necessarily have to be used for
AGM, gel and flooded batteries in that
order. The selections are arbitrary and
are determined by the voltage set for
the connected battery type.
You will probably need to compromise with the voltage settings. When
charging a battery, typically, the voltage is raised until it reaches the bulk
charge end-point voltage (around
14.0-14.6V) and then the charging
current decreases to a low level. The
charging voltage then drops to the float
or trickle charge level, usually around
13.0-13.8V.
However, that is not the case with
this solar charge controller, as the full
voltage is maintained. Many batteries
have a maximum specified time at the
bulk charge voltage (usually no more
than eight hours), after which damage
can occur due to outgassing etc. That
is why a more advanced charger will
drop the voltage once the battery is
fully charged.
Of course, with a solar charger, the
maximum charge time is limited by
the number of daylight hours available. But that could easily exceed
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eight hours, and some batteries could
have much shorter specifications for
the amount of time they can spend
above 14V.
But with this charger, there is no
other charging state. So you either set
the charge voltage to the bulk charge
level to fully charge the battery, or set
it at the float level for the battery for
long-term use.
A higher voltage setting will have
the battery charged closer to 100%,
while a lower voltage will be more
suited to lower float (maintenance
charge) requirements. However, setting it to terminate at the float value
will prevent the battery from reaching full charge if it is ever discharged.
So if you are using the charger
to maintain charge rather than for
charging, set the voltage value to the
recommended float voltage for the type
of connected battery.
Alternatively, if using the charger
with a load such as solar lights, it may
be better to set the full voltage to the
recommended bulk charge voltage (or
full charge voltage) for your battery
type. So the setting really depends on
your application. It would be wise to
check the manufacturer’s specifications for your battery before making
that setting.
Load reconnect
The next three menus are related to
the load output. They set how the load
is connected based on the battery voltage and light level, and for how long.
The load reconnect menu selects the
battery voltage that the load will be
reconnected after being disconnected
by a low battery level (see the next
menu). It is initially set at 12.6V and
can be adjusted between 10V and 13V.
This setting should be high enough
that the battery gains some extra charge
from the solar panel if the load is disconnected, before reconnection.
Load disconnect
The next menu is similar to the
above menu, except it sets the voltage below which the load disconnects.
Initially, it is set at 10.7V, but you can
adjust it between 11.5V and 8V.
Ideally, this should be set to a higher
value than 10.7V, as the battery would
be almost fully discharged at this
level and possibly already damaged.
Around 11.5V would be a more practical value to prevent excessive battery discharge.
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For more information regarding battery voltage for charging and discharging, see: deepcyclebatterystore.com/
how-to-maintain-batteries/
Work mode
This mode is for the load switching
settings. This is initially set for 24H,
meaning the load can be switched on
at any time and will remain on continuously. Other options switch on
the load from dusk for a set period in
hours. When the time is set between
one hour and 23 hours (1H to 23H), the
load is powered for that period beginning at the onset of dusk.
If you select the hours as zero (0H),
the load is switched on over the entire
dusk until dawn period. This is distinct from the 24H setting, when the
load can also be on during the daytime.
The controller detects dusk and dawn
by monitoring the solar panel voltage,
with 8V as the threshold voltage (or
16V for a 24V panel). Below 8V is dusk
to dawn, whereas above 8V is daytime.
Battery type
Finally, the last mode before the
main display reoccurs is the battery
type. This is selected as B1-B3. You
can set a different full voltage for each
battery selection as detailed above.
The maximum charging current for
the controller is 30A. It will not come
anywhere near this limit with the supplied panels. You would need over
300W of 12V panels or 600W of 24V
panels to exceed it.
Conclusion
While the charger is a bit basic, these
solar packages from Oatley Electronics are excellent value if you are looking for a solar charging system with
around 12-24W of power, such as for
some small outdoor lights or maintaining an infrequently used leadacid battery.
The two packages are
● IT159PK1 with one 16W solar
panel, the 30A regulator and 5m of
Fig.8 cable, suiting 12V lead-acid
battery charging: $39 plus P&P.
● IT159PK2 with two 16W solar
panels, the 30A regulator and 5m
of Fig.8 cable, suiting 24V leadacid battery charging: $54 plus P&P.
For more information or to order
these packages, visit Oatley’s website siliconchip.au/link/abes SC
July 2022 71
Secure Remote
Receiver
68m line-of-sight range
Up to 16 remotes per receiver
Mains-powered, quiescent power
typically 0.8W
Relay contact rating: 30A at 250V AC,
meaning it can switch large mainspowered devices like pumps
Relay on-timer ranges: 250ms to 60s
or 60s to 4.5h (see Tables 3 & 4)
Brownout protection: 192V AC switch
off, 220V AC switch on
DC supply current: 17mA with relay
off, 100mA with relay on
Part one: by John Clarke
T
HE SECURE REMOTE CONTROLLED
MAINS SWITCH (we’ll call it the
Switch from now on) is ideal for
switching motor loads such as pool
pumps, water pumps and any number
of applications where you find it convenient to switch power to an appliance remotely.
The high security of this design
means that it can be used for
remote-controlled doors, gates and
door strikes, maintaining the security
of your home or premises. As is typical for security remote controls, the
handheld unit is pocket-sized.
Many commercially-made remotecontrolled mains switches are available, such as Jaycar Cat MS6148
and Altronics Cat A0345. Wi-Fi controlled mains switches are also available, like the Blaupunkt smart Wi-Fi
plug BSP2EM. These rely on a mobile
phone app for control.
These are all fine for their intended
purpose, but the relays they use to
switch mains power are not suitable
for appliances that include motors.
While rated at 10A, the relay contacts
will quickly be destroyed when used
to power items such as a pool pump.
Also, controllers relying on a mobile
phone app could become obsolete
72
Silicon Chip
should support for that app be dropped
or become incompatible with newer
phones. We covered this phenomenon
in the February 2022 editorial.
Secure codes
The use of secure codes is not only
necessary for security applications;
it is also very useful to ensure that a
neighbour or passer-by using a similar
remote control does not inadvertently
switch your appliance on or off while
controlling their own equipment.
Editor’s note: our motorised security
shutters have rolled up or down more
than once when we were nowhere near
the remote control! So this is not just
a theoretical risk, and it definitely has
security implications.
The security of this design also
means that you can build more than
one Switch without being concerned
about interference between them. The
unique transmission code ensures that
the Switch receiver will not be activated by anything other than one of
the paired handheld remote controls.
Rolling codes for high
security
The remote control code sent by
the handheld remote units can be
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considered an electronic lock similar
to a physical key. This key is a specific code sent by the transmitter to the
receiver; it is a long sequence of on and
off signals sent in a particular order
and over a set period. The code must
be correct for the receiver to respond.
With a fixed remote control code,
an intending thief can receive and
store the code sent by the remote control and re-transmit it in an attempt to
operate the receiver. However, with a
rolling code, the reused code will not
trigger the receiver. That’s because
the receiver requires a different code
each time.
Each code that’s transmitted differs
markedly from one transmission to
the next. The codes sent are based on
an algorithm (calculation) that both
the transmitter and receiver have in
common, based on a unique numerical value that is stored within ICs
in both the remote control and the
receiver. The handheld remote will
have a unique identifier different from
any other handheld remote.
The code possibilities of a rolling
code system run into the trillions. This
renders any attempt to break the code
by sending out guessed codes totally
unrealistic. The odds of picking a
siliconchip.com.au
MAINS SW TCH
Transmitter
Professional-looking key-fob enclosure
Powered by a 3V CR2032 lithium cell, 200mAh+ recommended, giving more than two
years of life with typical use
Standby current: typically 60nA (526μAh/year)
Active (transmitting) current: 10mA average over 160ms (900nAh / transmission)
Registration current: 10mA average over 2.75s (15.5μAh per registration)
Transmission rate: 976.5 bits/s (1.024ms per bit)
Data encoding: Manchester code with a transmission time of 82ms
Unique code generation: secure UHF rolling code control with 48-bit seed,
24-bit multiplier and 8-bit increment value
This remote mains power switch uses secure
wireless transmission so that nefarious people
can’t intercept the commands and override your
control. It can also switch high current loads and includes an adjustable
timer. Up to 16 separate handheld remotes can control the same receiver.
correct code at random for our rolling
code transmitter, for example, is one
in 2.8 trillion.
Even then, the code needs to be sent
at the correct data rate, with the correct start and stop bit codes and other
transmission requirements, including
data scrambling that changes for each
transmission.
Other features
Our Switch comprises two parts: a
professional key-fob-style transmitter
and a separate receiver. The key-fob
has three pushbutton switches and an
acknowledge LED that briefly lights
up each time one of the switches is
pressed. Up to 16 different key-fob
transmitters can be used with one
receiver.
The receiver has a 30A mains relay
making it suitable for switching power
to motors. The relay can be switched
on or off, or switched on for a fixed
time, using the remote control or a
switch on the receiver. The on-period
can be adjusted from 1/4 second to 4.5
hours in two ranges.
Another feature is brownout detection; it automatically switches off
should a brownout occur. This is
when the mains voltage drops to a
siliconchip.com.au
lower than normal level, usually
because of a supply fault. This lower
voltage can cause motors to overheat
and burn out.
Motor burn-out occurs because the
current through a motor’s induction
windings increases when it is not
spinning at its correct speed, which is
likely when the supply voltage is low.
During severe brownouts, the voltage
can be so low that the motor will not
turn at all, but current is still flowing
in its windings. In that situation, the
motor will quickly overheat and suffer permanent damage.
The brownout detection protects
the motor by switching off its power if
the supply voltage falls below a preset
value. Brownout detection is vital for
mains-powered water pumps.
Security and registration
Each key-fob transmitter must be
allocated an Identity number from 0
to 15, set by coding links on the PCB.
Each transmitter is registered to the
receiver by sending a synchronising
code to the receiver when the receiver
is in registration or learning mode.
A facility is included to lock out a
particular transmitter after registration. This is useful if a transmitter
Australia's electronics magazine
has been lost. If the lost transmitter is
found, it can be easily re-registered.
If the identity of the lost transmitter
is not known, all transmitters can be
locked out, and the ones that are still
in use can be re-registered.
The data is transmitted using UHF
ASK as Manchester code. A zero bit
is sent as a 512µs period of no transmission followed by a 512µs burst of
433.9MHz carrier. In contrast, a one
bit is transmitted as a 512µs burst of
433.9MHz carrier followed by a 512µs
period of no signal.
Each transmission consists of four
start bits, an 8-bit identifier, a 48-bit
code and four stop bits, for a total of 64
bits. The start bits include a 16.4ms gap
between the second start bit and the
third start bit, while the code scramble
value is altered on each transmission
with 32 variations.
Unique codes are generated using
a 48-bit seed, 24-bit multiplier and
8-bit increment value initially set by
a unique identifier within IC1 on the
transmitter.
The registration code is sent as two
blocks. Block 1 sends four start bits,
the 8-bit identifier, a 32-bit seed code
and four stop bits. Block 2 sends four
start bits, the 24-bit multiplier, the
July 2022 73
8-bit increment and 8-bit scramble values and four stop bits. Again, the start
bits include a 16.4ms gap between the
second start bit and the third start bit.
Circuitry
The transmitter circuit is shown in
Fig.1. It mainly comprises microcontroller IC1 and a 433.9MHz UHF transmitter. For IC1, the PIC16LF15323 was
chosen for its very low standby current
and the inclusion of a unique identifier
called the Microchip Unique Identifier
(MUI). We use the MUI to generate a
rolling code sequence that is unique to
the IC and thus the transmitter.
IC1 is usually kept in sleep mode
with its internal oscillator stopped
and most of its internal circuitry
switched off. In this state, it draws a
typical standby current of 60nA from
the 3V cell.
You can verify this by connecting a
100kW resistor in series with the 3V
supply with a switch across it. Apply
power with the switch closed. After
about 10 seconds, when the micro goes
to sleep, open the switch and measure
the voltage across the resistor. We measured 6mV, indicating a sleep current
of 60nA.
Switches S1 to S3 connect to the
RA4, RC3 and RC1 digital inputs of
IC1 while the Identity switches (1, 2,
4 & 8) connect to the RA0, RA1, RA2
and RC0 digital inputs, respectively.
The Identity inputs are used to differentiate between different transmitters for a given receiver. If only one
transmitter is used, it can be set for
Identity 0, and none of the Identity
pins need to be connected to circuit
ground.
At power-up, each Identity input is
held high by pull-up resistors to the
3V rail that is inside IC1. The software
then disables the pull-up resistor for
any identity input that is kept low.
That prevents that pull-up continuous
sourcing current, which would otherwise be 25-200µA drawn from the cell
per low input.
The pull-ups for pushbutton
switches S1-S3 are left on since they
are only pressed momentarily. In contrast, at least one of the Identity inputs
is always held low for Identity settings
other than 0.
IC1 is programmed to wake up from
its sleep condition when any one of
switches S1-S3 is pressed, and that
corresponding input changes from
high to a low. It then runs the program to send the rolling code for the
function associated with the pressed
switch.
The rolling code and registration
codes are sent via the 433.9MHz transmitter module. This module is powered via the paralleled RC5 and RC4
outputs of IC1, which go high to provide a nominal 3V to the Vcc input of
the module. This way, it only draws
current from the cell when in use.
The code is applied to the data input
of the module from the RA5 output
of IC1. The antenna is a coiled length
of wire.
Fig.1: the transmitter circuit is quite simple, primarily comprised of a
PIC16LF15323 microcontroller and a 433.9MHz UHF transmitter module.
74
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
The transmit indicator, LED1, is
driven via the RC2 output of IC2
through a 220W current-limiting resistor and is modulated at the code transmission rate of about 1kHz.
After sending the code, IC1 powers
down the UHF transmitter and returns
to sleep mode.
During transmission, the current
draw from the cell briefly rises to
about 10mA. If you keep holding one
of the buttons down after the transmission is complete, the current will
drop to about 220µA until the button
is released. This is due to the current
flow in the switch pull-up resistor.
Considering the quiescent current and intermittent bursts of higher
current when transmitting, cell life
should be more than two years with
typical use.
Receiver circuit
The receiver (see Fig.2) uses a
PIC16F1459-I/P microcontroller (IC1)
and UHF receiver module with an
onboard coiled wire antenna input to
provide a very good reception range.
When no signal is present, the
receiver’s output signal is random
noise since the module’s automatic
gain control (AGC) is at its maximum.
Upon reception of a 433.9MHz signal, the receiver gain is reduced for
best reception without overload, and
the coded signal from the data output
of the module is delivered to the RC7
digital input of IC1.
The Acknowledge LED (LED2)
indicates whenever a valid signal is
received.
The RC5 digital output of IC1 drives
NPN transistor Q1, which switches
the relay coil. When RC5 goes high,
it delivers current to transistor Q1’s
base and Q1 powers RLY1. Diode D5
clamps the back-EMF that causes a
voltage spike at the collector of Q1 as
the relay switches off. The relay contacts are rated at 30A and 250V AC.
The unit can be set up to power the
relay for a fixed period or just switch
it on or off continuously.
There are two ways to toggle the
relay on and off. The operation of
switch S1 on the receiver depends
on jumper JP3. When JP3 is open, the
relay switches on with one press and
off on the next. When JP3 is bridged
and S1 is pressed, the relay is switched
on for a fixed time and switches off at
the end of this period, or when S1 is
pressed again – see Table 1.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: UHF transmissions are fed to microcontroller IC1 on the receiver, which decodes them.
If they are valid, it controls the mains relay by changing the level at digital output RC5,
which drives NPN transistor Q1 to power the relay coil.
Table 1 – JP3 settings
Table 3 – JP1 timer settings
JP3 in/out
Receiver switch S1 function
JP1 in/out
Timer period
Out
Off if already on, otherwise on with a timer, range per JP1
Out
0.25-60s (1x)
In
Toggle on/off
In
1m-4.5h (255x)
Table 2 – transmitter switch functions
Table 4 – Nominal period versus TP1 voltage
Switch
Function with JP2 out
Function with JP2 in
TP1
Time with JP1 out
Time with JP1 in
S1
Relay on with a timer,
range per JP1
Relay on with a timer,
0.25-60s
0V
0.25s
1m
S2
Relay on continuously
Relay on with a timer,
1m-4.5h
1.25V
15s
1h 7.5m
2.5V
30s
2h 15m
S3
Relay off
Relay off
3.75V
45s
3h 22.5m
5V
60s
4h 30m
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2022 75
433.9MHz receiver module, while the
+12V rail powers the relay. The outputs of REG1 and REG2 are filtered
and stabilised using 100µF capacitors.
A 100nF capacitor further decouples
the 5V supply for IC1.
Brownout detection
The receiver fits into an IP65 sealed ABS plastic case, so it could be installed
in a pool house or similar, to control a pool pump, among other possible uses.
Being splashproof could also come in handy if it’s controlling a gate or garage
door. It should be installed out of the elements, as the sockets and switches are
not sealed.
The remote control has three buttons, and usually, S1 on the remote
switches the relay on with the timer
to switch it off, S2 switches it on continuously (or for a much longer time if
JP2 is inserted), and S3 switches it off.
See Table 2 for more details.
The timer period is set using trimpot VR1. The trimpot wiper can be
adjusted from 0V through to 5V. This
voltage is monitored at the AN6 analog input of IC1, which converts the
voltage into a period from 0.25 seconds
to 60 seconds.
IC1’s digital input RA4 has an internal pull-up current from IC1. If JP1 is
inserted, this pin is pulled low instead.
In that case, the timing period ranges
from one minute to 4 hours and 30
minutes – see Table 3.
You can monitor the timer setting
voltage at test point TP1. Table 4 shows
the typical periods for selected trimpot positions.
Identity
The Identity selection is made using
a BCD rotary switch (S4) with 16 positions, labelled 0-9 and A-F (for 10-15).
This switch is only applicable to the
lockout selections; it plays no part in
the key-fob transmitter registration.
S4’s four contacts connect to the
RB7, RB6, RB5 and RB4 digital inputs
76
Silicon Chip
of IC1. When the BCD switch is set at
0, all four inputs are high. Position 1
on the switch has the ‘1’ output at RB7
pulled low, while Position 15 (or F)
sets all switch outputs at 0V.
S3 provides the lockout or deregistering function for a transmitter.
Pressing S3 will prevent the transmitter from operating the receiver identified by the number selected with the
BCD switch.
The Learn switch (S2) tells the program within IC1 to be ready to accept
the synchronising signal from a handheld remote. While waiting for a signal
from the remote unit, the Learn LED
(LED1) stays lit. The Learn LED extinguishes once the synchronising signal
has been received.
Power supply
Power for the receiver comes from
the mains via transformer T1. The
transformer’s 12V secondary voltage
is full-wave rectified using diodes
D1-D4 and filtered with a 470µF electrolytic capacitor at 3-terminal regulator at REG1’s input plus another 100µF
capacitor at REG2’s input.
The result is a pulsating 17V DC
rail applied to REG1 & REG2, which
in turn provide regulated +12V DC
and +5V DC rails, respectively. The
+5V rail is used to power IC1 and the
Australia's electronics magazine
IC1’s AN8 analog input is used for
brownout detection. This input samples the 17V DC rectified rail via a
voltage divider consisting of a 22kW
resistor and trimpot VR2. VR2’s wiper
voltage is filtered using a 10µF capacitor (to smooth out 100Hz ripple and
transients) and applied to the AN8
input via a 1kW resistor.
During the set-up procedure, VR2
is adjusted so that the voltage at AN8
is a DC voltage that is 1/100th that of
the mains AC voltage. For example,
the voltage is set to +2.35V if the mains
voltage is 235V AC.
If a brownout occurs and the mains
voltage drops below about 192V AC,
the voltage applied to AN8 will fall
below 1.92V DC. This is detected
by microcontroller IC1, which then
switches the relay off to disconnect
power from the mains output. The
relay can only be switched on again
manually when the mains voltage
returns to normal.
One small problem with monitoring the 17V rail is that while it does
vary with mains voltage, it also varies
with load. RLY1 has a coil resistance
of 120W, so there is an extra 100mA
drawn from the 17V rail when the relay
is on. As a result, this rail drops when
the relay is powered. Therefore, VR2 is
adjusted while the relay is on, so the
brownout voltage detection threshold
is accurately set.
When the relay is off, the voltage
is expected to rise by about 3V as the
relay load on the supply is removed.
However, as the relay is latched off
by a brownout and must be manually
switched on again, that doesn’t matter.
Next month
We still have quite a bit of ground to
cover as, besides assembling the two
PCBs, we also need to describe how
to fit them into their respective cases.
Then we’ll go over the testing procedure, set-up, remote registration and
de-registration and some more advice
for using the Secure Remote Mains
Switch. All of that will be in the second and final article in this series,
next month.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
Parts List – Secure Remote Mains Switch
Receiver
1 double-sided plated-through PCB coded 10109211,
159 x 109mm, 1.6mm thick
1 IP65 ABS enclosure, 171 x 121 x 55mm
[Jaycar HB6248, Altronics H0478]
1 433.9MHz UHF ASK receiver (RX1)
[Jaycar ZW3102, Altronics Z6905A or equivalent]
1 3VA PCB-mounting 12V mains transformer (T1)
[Altronics M7012A]
1 12V DC coil, 250V AC 30A contact SPST relay (RLY1)
[Jaycar SY4040 or equivalent]
1 momentary push-to-close 250V AC panel-mount mains
switch (S1) [Jaycar SP0716, Altronics S1080]
2 SPST PCB-mount tactile micro switches (S2, S3)
[Jaycar SP0600, Altronics S1120]
1 4-bit DIL BCD PCB-mount rotary switch (S4)
[Jaycar SR1220, Altronics S3000A]
1 SPST mains rocker switch (S5)
[Jaycar SK0984, Altronics S3210]
1 10A mains panel socket with side wire entry
[Jaycar PS4094, Altronics P8241]
1 panel-mount IEC mains socket with integral fuse holder
[Jaycar PP4004, Altronics P8324]
1 M205 10A fast-blow fuse (F1)
1 10A IEC mains cord
1 panel-mount 230/240V AC neon lamp
2 2-way screw terminals, 5.08mm pitch (CON1)
1 3-way screw terminal, 5.08mm pitch (CON2)
3 2-way pin headers, 2.54mm pitch (JP1-JP3)
3 jumper shunts (JP1-JP3)
1 20-pin DIL IC socket (for IC1)
Hardware
2 M4 x 6mm panhead machine screws and nuts
(for relay mounting)
2 M3 x 10mm panhead Nylon machine screws
(for IEC connector mounting)
6 M3 x 6mm panhead machine screws
4 M3 nuts
2 150mm cable ties (to hold down transformer)
Wiring
1 20mm length of 3mm diameter red heatshrink tubing
1 400mm length of 10A light blue mains-rated wire ●
1 400mm length of 10A brown mains-rated wire ●
1 200mm length of 10A green/yellow mains-rated wire ●
1 400mm length of 7.5A brown mains-rated wire
1 170mm length of 1mm diameter enamelled copper
wire
1 50mm length of 10mm diameter red heatshrink tubing
1 100mm length of 5mm diameter red heatshrink tubing
1 25mm length of 5mm diameter blue heatshrink tubing
1 25mm length of 5mm diameter green heatshrink
tubing
12 100mm cable ties
● can be stripped from a length of 3-core 10A mains flex
siliconchip.com.au
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F1459-I/P microcontroller, DIP-20, programmed
with 1010921R.HEX
1 7805 5V 1A regulator, TO-220 (REG1)
1 7812 12V 1A regulator, TO-220 (REG2)
1 BC337 500mA NPN transistor, TO-92 (Q1)
5 1N4004 400V 1A diodes, DO-41 (D1-D5)
2 3mm high-brightness red LEDs (LED1, LED2)
Capacitors
1 470μF 25V PC electrolytic
1 100μF 25V PC electrolytic
2 100μF 16V PC electrolytic
2 10μF 16V PC electrolytic
2 100nF MKT polyester (code 104 or 100n)
Resistors (all 1/4W, 1% metal film)
1 22kW
5 10kW
1 1kW
2 560W
1 330W
1 10kW miniature single turn top-adjust trimpot
(code 103) (VR1)
1 10kW top-adjust multi-turn trimpot (code 103) (VR2)
Transmitter (up to 16 per receiver)
1 double-sided plated-through PCB coded 10109212, 30
x 45mm, 1.0mm thick
1 RF Solutions ENCL_KIT3 3-switch key-fob enclosure
[RS Components 4510674, Mouser 223-ENCL-KIT3]
1 Renata HU-2032-LF PCB-mount cell holder (BAT1)
[element14 1319749, Mouser 614-HU2032-LF]
1 CR2032 3V lithium cell (BAT1)
1 433.9MHz UHF ASK transmitter (TX1)
[Jaycar ZW3100, Altronics Z6900 or equivalent]
3 SPST two-pin momentary PCB-mount tactile switches
(S1-S3) [Jaycar SP0611, Altronics S1127]
1 PIC16LF15323-I/SL microcontroller, SOIC-14,
programmed with 1010921A.HEX (IC1)
1 3mm high-brightness red LED (LED1)
2 100nF 50V through-hole ceramic
1 220W 1% SMD resistor, M3216/1206 size
1 162mm length of 0.5mm diameter enamelled copper
wire
Resistor Colour Codes
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2022 77
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions will be paid for at
standard rates. All submissions should include full name, address & phone number.
Switching on external devices via your TV
This circuit was designed to power
on auxiliary devices such as external
amplifiers, lighting, modems etc that
are connected to a TV set. It works by
sensing an audio signal from the TV’s
audio line output or headphone output port. The presence of that signal
triggers it to turn on the accessories
after a few seconds.
When the TV is switched off, the
audio signals stop and mains power
to the accessories is cut off after about
40 seconds. There needs to be a delay
as some program content can have
quiet periods.
The audio signal fed into CON2 is
AC-coupled to the base of NPN transistor Q1, which acts as a common-
emitter amplifier with a high AC gain
as its emitter resistor is bypassed with
a 10μF capacitor.
I measured the audio output of several TVs at normal listening settings as
being from 6mV to 80mV. As the rest
of the circuit requires at least 0.5V to
trigger the relay, a preamp with an AC
gain of at least 100 is needed, and Q1
does that job.
The amplified signal drives a charge
pump consisting of diodes D2 & D3
and two 4.7μF capacitors. When a
signal is present, the 4.7μF capacitor
in parallel with the 2.2MW resistor is
rapidly charged up to several volts.
When the signal goes away, it is slowly
discharged by its parallel resistor over
about 40s. You can adjust this delay
by changing the value of the 2.2MW
resistor. For example, 1MW will give
a 20 second turnoff time.
The voltage from this capacitor is
applied to the pin 3 inverting input
of comparator IC1. A ~0.6V reference
voltage is generated at its pin 2 non-
inverting input by the forward voltage
of diode D4, fed with about 0.1mA by
the 100kW resistor from the positive
supply. Therefore, when the voltage
across the 4.7μF charge pump capacitor exceeds 0.6V, output pin 7 of IC1
goes low, forward-biasing the base of
PNP transistor Q3.
When Q3 switches on, it powers the
coil of mains-rated relay RLY1, switching on the devices plugged into the
mains socket. A 22nF X2-class safety
capacitor across its contacts prevents
arcing during switching, while diode
D5 absorbs the back-EMF current pulse
when the relay switches off. LED2 is
wired in parallel with the coil to show
when it is energised.
A switch-on delay is provided
by NPN transistor Q2 and the 22μF
capacitor in its base bias network. At
switch-on, this capacitor is discharged
so Q2’s base is at around 0.7V, holding
it on and effectively shorting out the
4.7μF charge pump capacitor.
The 22μF capacitor charges through
the 1kW series resistor until the voltage at Q2’s base drops enough that it
switches off, enabling normal operation.
Power is supplied by a 9-12V DC
plugpack. This circuit will work fine
with a 6V plugpack, but the relay will
need to be a 6V type with suitable contact ratings.
I cut into the insulation of a mains
extension lead to expose the active
wire, then cut it and wired it to the
relay contacts. All the mains wiring
must be securely anchored and fully
insulated.
Warwick Talbot,
Toowoomba, Qld. ($100)
WARNING! – this circuit involves mains wiring and contact with live components is potentially lethal
78
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Variable L-Pad volume control for loudspeakers
This network adjusts the volume
of an extension speaker. Unlike many
commercial resistive volume controls,
it adds damping-reducing resistance
that is not more than 2W. This does
not significantly alter the alignment
of a loudspeaker system with a rated
impedance of at least 8W.
The minimum load of the pad and
speaker presented to the amplifier is
4W. Thus, you cannot connect another
speaker in parallel with the extension
speaker without risking damage to the
amplifier.
A pair of toggle switches are used
to vary the attenuation because rotary
switches with adequate current capacity are costly and not readily available.
The switch positions for the five different attenuation levels are straightforward and shown with the circuit
diagram.
With both toggle switches down,
attenuation is at a maximum. Pushing the toggle of switch S1 upwards
decreases the attenuation in two steps,
each of approximately 6dB. Then moving S2 upwards reduces the attenuation in a further two steps.
The other four combinations of toggle switch positions should not be used
as they can result in a load slightly
below 4W being presented to the amp,
or an increased damping resistance of
about 3W. However, if these settings
are inadvertently selected, they will
not cause damage or much distortion.
U
S
B
siliconchip.com.au
The required resistance for R5 is calculated using the formula R5 = k × Z x
Rt ÷ [Z × (k − 1) − Rt] = 5.3W where k
is 10dB ÷ 20, Z is the rated impedance
of the speaker and Rt is the damping
resistance. Here, k = 2 (-6dB attenuation), Z = 8W and Rt = 2W.
For -6dB of attenuation, we calculate
the equal values for R1 and R2 using
the formula R1 || R2 = Rt × R5 ÷ (R5 −
Rt), so R1 & R2 = 6.4W.
The value of resistor R4 is selected
to produce attenuation close to 12dB
when S1 is up and S2 is down. Similarly, the value of R3 is chosen to give
about 24dB attenuation with both toggle switches down. The way R1 and
R2 connect to S2 prevents resistors R3
and R4 from being switched in parallel
or series with the speaker. That would
present a 2W load to the amplifier.
The power ratings for resistors R1-R5
and current ratings of switches S1 & S2
are based on the output of the amp and
the power delivered to the speaker not
exceeding its 15W rating.
Duplicating the network using
DPDT switches in place of SPDT yields
a stereo two-channel volume control.
With the wattage ratings of the resistors as shown, you can build the stereo version for under US$40.
Peter H. Lehmann,
Newburgh, Maine, USA ($120).
Cable Tester
Test just about any USB cable!
USB-A (2.0/3.2) USB-B (2.0/3.2)
USB-C Mini-B Micro-B (2.0/3.2)
Reports faults with individual cable
ends, short circuits, open circuits,
voltage drops and cable resistance etc
November & December 2021 issue
siliconchip.com.au/Series/374
DIY kit for $110
SC5966 – siliconchip.com.au/Shop/20/5966
Everything included except the case and batteries. Postage is $10 within Australia, see our website for overseas & express post rates
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2022 79
Transmitting in the FM broadcast band with the MC2833 NBFM chip
This circuit was designed to transmit audio within my
house so I could receive it using an ordinary FM radio. I
am using the MC2833P IC, which usually employs a quartz
crystal to set the carrier frequency, thus avoiding drift or
complicated adjustments.
However, this chip is designed to produce narrowband
FM signals, ie, weakly modulated signals with a similar
bandwidth to an HF AM signal (5kHz). Wideband FM
receivers picking up such a signal would produce an unacceptably low sound level.
To increase the bandwidth and operate within the
broadcast band (87.5-108MHz in my country), I added the
ICS2494N IC, a PLL-based frequency multiplier for computer applications with an output of up to 135MHz.
The ICS2494N produces two outputs, simultaneously
multiplying the input frequency by two values out of 20
fixed factors. These factors depend on the version of the
IC, which is indicated by the last three digits of the part
number. I am using the ICS2494N-244 here, set to multiply
the input frequency by 4.889 times at one of its outputs;
the other outputs are not used.
I also replaced the quartz crystal with a Murata CERA
LOCK 18MHz ceramic resonator (CSTLS18M0X51-A0). I
tested some CERALOCK ceramic resonators of other frequencies (8MHz, 16MHz, 16.9MHz), and in all cases, the circuit worked satisfactorily on its corresponding frequency.
In all cases, the carrier wave output of the MC2833P
did not coincide precisely with the nominal resonator frequency. In the case of the 18MHz resonator, it produced
17.98MHz. 17.98MHz × 4.889 = 87.9MHz, a broadcast frequency that is unused at my location.
The audio input, which may come from a microphone,
is applied to the internal audio amplifier in IC1 via pin 5.
The gain of this stage is adjusted by varying VR1 so that the
maximum frequency deviation is achieved without distortion. If applying higher-level audio signals, such as from a
CD/DVD/Blu-ray player or DAC, increase the value of the
2.7kW resistor to avoid overloading the amplifier.
80
Silicon Chip
The audio signal is then used by IC1 to modulate the
reactance at pin 1. This modulates the frequency of the
internal Colpitts oscillator, with a frequency also determined by inductor L1, the 18pF & 56pF capacitors and
the ceramic resonator. IC1 has two internal RF transistors,
which I used in this circuit to amplify the RF signal before
applying it to IC2’s input.
IC2, the ICS2494N-244, has several parallel digital inputs
that configure the factors by which the internal PLLs will
multiply the input frequency. FS3 (the most significant bit)
to FS0 (the least significant bit) establish the multiplication
factor for the VCLK output (pin 19), along with strobe (pin
6), which enables that selection.
In this case, the binary word “1001” is used. Inputs MS1
and MS0 (pins 11 & 9 respectively), define the factor for the
MCLK output, which is not used in this circuit. The FM RF
signal from the VCLK output through a 47pF capacitor is
about 5V peak-to-peak. For short-distance transmissions, it
can be applied to an antenna without amplification.
Different ICS2494N versions (with different multiplication factors) can also be used. For example, by using
a CSTLS16M9X54 resonator (16.9MHz), I obtained a
16.92MHz output from IC1. If the ICS2494N-325 were
used with the binary word “1011” for FS3-FS0 (which
establishes a factor of 5.378), the output carrier frequency
would be 90.1MHz.
I also tested an SFE10.7MA5-A 10.7MHz ceramic filter and got 10.959MHz at IC1’s output. By employing an
ICS2494N-281 and the binary word “1110”, the output carrier frequency would be 99.5MHz.
To compare the frequency deviation at IC1’s output
using the 18MHz ceramic resonator, the SFE10.7MA5-A
ceramic filter and an 18MHz quartz crystal, I disconnected
the capacitor from pin 3 of IC1 and applied an adjustable
DC voltage to pin 3. This produced the frequency-voltage
plot shown at right.
I made the curves intersect at V = 0.95V, which is the
voltage that gave approximately the same frequency as no
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
modulation. It is also the midpoint of the range considered
(0.65-1.25V), which is the range at pin 3 when an 8mV
peak-to-peak 1kHz audio signal is applied to the circuit
with VR1 at its maximum value.
You can see that the ceramic devices produce higher
frequency deviations than the quartz crystal. The ceramic
resonator gives a change in frequency about six times that
of the crystal, and the ceramic filter, despite its lower frequency, almost doubles that number. They all become
non-linear at the lowest voltages but the audio quality
is still good.
I have seen VFOs or modulable oscillators employing
ceramic resonators before, but never using the MC2833.
Since the frequency multiplication to VHF is made inside
the ICS2494N, non-integer factors are available, and the
use of coils and the need for adjustment are avoided, simplifying the circuit.
Ariel G. Benvenuto,
Paraná, Argentina. ($120)
Simple plugpack voltage & current monitor
When checking the voltage of a
plugpack, it is tricky to hold the
probes just right to make reliable
contact. It’s even more difficult to
measure the voltage and current
simultaneously. This power meter
allows you to do that quickly and
easily. It also allows you to see the
output voltage of the plugpack while
under load, which a simple test with
a multimeter would not show.
I recently came across a
“Multi-Function Digital Power
Meter” sold by Altronics (Cat
Q0589). I thought it would make a
useful meter for checking plugpack
power supplies and the equipment
they power.
Jaycar sells a similar DC Power
Meter (Cat QP2320), which seems
to have the same specifications,
although I have not tried it.
Not only does the Q0589 show the
output voltage and load current, but
it also calculates and displays the
instantaneous power and energy
consumption over time. As 2.1mm
and 2.5mm DC connectors are pretty
common these days, I have fitted it
with both sizes of input and output, but other types could be used
or added.
The power monitor has been
designed to use with plugpacks that
have a negative barrel and positive
tip, as they are now the most common type. The hardest part of making it is cutting the opening for the
panel mount meter in the plastic
siliconchip.com.au
box; the rest is straightforward. The
whole project can be completed in a
couple of hours.
The two DC input sockets are
wired in parallel with the intention
that one is used at a time. Similarly,
the two output plugs are also wired
in parallel, again with the intent to
use one at a time (although you could
use both if your plugpack is up to
it). Rather than making up the two
output plugs and leads, it is easiest
Australia's electronics magazine
to obtain these from old plugpacks
that are no longer required.
It can measure from 6.5V to 100V
DC and up to 20A. If high currents
(>3A) are to be measured, use sufficiently thick wires.
I fitted a warning label to the
device to indicate that it is for use
with positive-tip DC supplies only.
I also marked the sizes of the plugs
and sockets for convenience.
John Louttit, Stafford, Qld. ($60)
July 2022 81
PRODUCT SHOWCASE
CPI waterproof switches
Control Devices has added CPI
waterproof switches to their product line. CPI switches are designed
to cater to demanding Industrial and
Defence applications, where efficiency
and reliability of machine operation is
essential under severe environmental
conditions.
Based on the users’ set parameters,
the switches can qualify for an IP68 rating. They are protected with a thermoplastic or neoprene rubber cover, and
are fully submersible – splashproof,
waterproof and wash-down resistant.
They perform under exposure to
water, salt water, oil, sand, dirt, humidity, vibration, shock and temperature
extremes.
They also come in a selection of
styles ranging from a pendant, rocker,
plunger, limit and ball.
Momentary and maintained functions are available. For installation,
the switches can be mounted into a
bracket to fit into confined spaces or
a switch panel unit.
Control Devices
Unit 13, 538 Gardeners Road
Alexandria NSW 2015
Phone: 02 9930 1700
sales<at>controldevices.net
www.controldevices.com.au
WBZ451 and PIC32CX-BZ2 early access development kit
Take your multi-protocol wireless
design to the next level with the PIC32CX-BZ2 family of wireless microcontrollers and WBZ451 modules.
They feature the low-energy Bluetooth 5.2 specification, industry-leading security and a proven Zigbee
stack. Based around an ARM Cortex-M4, the PIC32CX-BZ2 integrates
a high-performance 2.4GHz radio and
supports a wide temperature range in
a stand-alone package making it wellsuited for industrial applications such
as industrial lighting and remote factory/building control.
Home automation is at your fingertips with the PIC32CX-BZ2. It can be
used to turn on living room lights, lock
your front door and control your blinds
remotely. You can even use Bluetooth
to set up a Zigbee network and control
it from your smartphone. The applications for this exciting new solution
are endless.
Be one of the first to get early access
to Microchip’s development kit, user
guides and example demos. The
EA71C53A is an early access development kit for developers who want to
explore and develop applications with
Microchip’s upcoming Bluetooth 5.2
and Zigbee wireless solution. The kit
is available now for US$88.
To get started visit GitHub here:
https://github.com/MicrochipTech/
EA71C53A
Microchip Technology
2355 West Chandler Blvd,
Chandler Arizona 85224-6199 USA
Phone: (480) 792 7200
www.microchip.com
Bosch BMP390 pressure sensor now available at Mouser
Mouser Electronics is now stocking the BMP390 barometric pressure
sensor from Bosch. The BMP390 is
an ultra-small, low-power and lownoise 24-bit barometric pressure sensor with vertical (z-axis) capabilities
that enable accurate indoor localisation with smartphones in case of
emergencies.
The Bosch BMP390 barometric
pressure sensor offers a pressure
range of 300hPa to 1250hPa at 0°C to
65°C with typical relative accuracy
of ±0.03hPa. The sensor features low
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Silicon Chip
power consumption of 3.2µA at 1Hz
and a small 2 × 2 × 0.75mm form factor,
making it ideal for a wide range of lowpower, altitude-tracking applications
in smartphone and wearable devices.
For development, Mouser also
stocks the BMP390 Shuttle Board and
the Application Board 3.0. Designed
to be used together, the Application
Board and Shuttle Board enable access
to the BMP390 sensor’s pins to build
prototypes.
The minuscule, single-package
BMP390 solution enhances design
Australia's electronics magazine
flexibility to allow easy integration,
including Internet of Things (IoT)
devices, smartphones, GPS modules,
wearables, hearables and drones.
Visit www.mouser.com/new/bosch/
bosch-bmp390-pressure-sensor to
learn more about the Bosch BMP390
sensor.
Mouser Electronics Inc.
1000 North Main St,
Mansfield, TX 76063 USA
Phone: (852) 3756 4700
www.mouser.com
siliconchip.com.au
Using Cheap Asian Electronic Modules
By Jim Rowe
PAS CO2
Air Quality
Sensor Module
Continuing our series of articles describing low-cost air quality sensors
(LCAQS), this month, we take a close look at a sensor module based on photoacoustic spectroscopy or PAS. It’s the Infineon XENSIV PAS CO2 mini-board.
P
AS (photo-acoustic spectroscopy)
sensors take advantage of the way
molecules of a particular gas absorb
specific IR wavelengths according to
the Beer-Lambert law.
In PAS sensors, the degree of absorption is measured using a phenomenon Alexander Graham Bell discovered in 1880. When a thin metal disc
is exposed to pulses of sunlight (Bell
used a rotating slotted wheel), it emits
sound. Later, Bell showed that materials exposed to the non-visible wavelengths in sunlight (like infra-red/IR
and ultraviolet/UV) also emit sound.
The basic structure of a PAS sensor
is shown in Fig.1. On the left is the
pulsed IR light source (generally an
array of LEDs), with an optical filter
passing only the wavelengths absorbed
by the gas to be detected - in this example, 4.2μm for the detection of CO2.
At the far end of the chamber, there
is a MEMS microphone optimised to
detect low audio frequencies. When
the detected sound level is amplified, it can be converted into a figure
corresponding to the amount of CO2
present in the cell. The whole sensor
is enclosed in an acoustic insulation
layer, to reduce the influence of external sound.
LCAQS sensors using the PAS principle have only appeared in the last
couple of years because their development has depended on MEMS technology. The only one currently available seems to be the XENSIV PAS CO2
sensor from Infineon Technologies (an
offshoot of Siemens in Munich, Germany).
This comes on a very compact module measuring only 14 x 13.8 x 7.5mm,
combining the PAS sensor with a
Fig.1: the basic structure of a PAS sensor. A pulsed IR LED emits light through a
filter leaving only wavelengths of light that the gas to be detected can absorb. A
MEMS microphone then detects low-frequency audio that is emitted by the gas,
which can be measured to provide the amount of gas in the cell.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
dedicated microcontroller unit (MCU)
running advanced compensation algorithms and providing a choice of three
different data interface ports. It is currently available from suppliers like
element14 for around $50 or Mouser
Electronics for about $78.
Inside the module
Fig.2 shows a functional block diagram of the XENSIV PAS CO2 sensor
module. At the top is the PAS measurement cell, with its gas inlet pipe
on the right, the MEMS IR emitter in
the centre and the MEMS LF microphone on the left.
Then in the lower part of the diagram are the microcontroller and
memory, the light source driver and
the circuit that measures the voltage
of the external 12V DC supply used to
power the IR emitter.
Labels for the pin connections are
available on the module underside.
July 2022 83
but I suspect it is only functional
when the UART or PWM interfaces
are being used.
The actual pin connections for
the PAS CO2 mini-board are shown
in Fig.3, which is a simplified top
view of the module. There are six
pins on each side, but the two lowest pins, labelled SWD and SWCLK,
are for testing during manufacture
and should not be connected when
the module is being used. All of the
remaining pins correspond to those
shown in Fig.2.
Trying it out
Fig.2: a functional block diagram of the XENSIV PAS sensor module.
As mentioned above, the PAS CO2
sensor mini-board provides a choice of
three different data interfaces for communicating with an external MCU: I2C,
asynchronous serial (UART) and PWM
(pulse-width modulation). Which one
to be used is chosen by setting the logic
level on the PSEL and PWM_DIS control pins.
To use the I2C interface, the PWM_
DIS and PSEL pins must be pulled
down to GND. For the UART interface, PWM_DIS is pulled down while
PSEL is pulled up to logic high (3.3V)
instead. Finally, if you want to use the
PWM interface, the PWM_DIS pin is
pulled to logic high (3.3V).
When the I2C interface is selected,
the SDA/TX pin is used for the data
line and the SCL pin for the clock
line. When using this interface, both
the SDA/TX and SCL pins need to be
fitted with 10kW pull-up resistors to
the +3.3V supply.
When the UART interface is selected,
the SDA/TX line is used as the serial
data output and the RX pin for serial
data input. But when the PWM interface is selected, the width-modulated
pulses emerge from the PWM pin.
The INT pin is an output to allow
the internal MCU to indicate when it
has finished a measurement. I could
not find much information on this,
Once I had obtained a sample XENSIV PAS CO2 mini-board module, the
challenge was to discover how to connect it to a standard low-cost MCU like
an Arduino Uno. Luckily, I found this
information on the Infineon website.
Although Infineon only provides
specific information on connecting
the module to either a PSoC 6 WiFi-BT
Pioneer Kit or an up-market Arduino
Due, I was able to glean enough from
the latter option to work out how to
connect it to an Uno or similar.
This turned out to be relatively
straightforward, as you can see from
Fig.3, which shows how to connect
the module to an Arduino Uno via I2C.
The 3.3V logic supply comes from the
+3.3V output of the Uno, while the SCL
Fig.3: connecting the PAS sensor to an Arduino board is straightforward. Note
that we have tied the PWM_DIS and PSEL pins to GND so that the module is in
I2C mode.
Useful links
PAS modules:
• https://au.element14.com/3779651
• https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/726-PASCO2V01AUMA2
• www.infineon.com/cms/en/product/sensor/co2-sensors/#!products
Software libraries (or download through the Arduino IDE Library Manager):
• https://github.com/Infineon/arduino-pas-co2-sensor
• www.arduino.cc/reference/en/libraries/pas-co2-sensor/
Photoacoustic spectroscopy:
• https://w.wiki/4wsX
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Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
and TX/SDA pins connect to the Uno’s
SCL and SDA pins and a pair of 10kW
pull-up resistors. The PWM_DIS and
PSEL pins are tied to ground for I2C
mode, as mentioned earlier.
Since the module also needs a 12V
DC supply to provide power for the
IR LED, this can come from a separate
plugpack supply. It can be a small supply, since the average current is less
than 600μA with brief pulses of around
20mA. Three bypass capacitors on the
12V supply line provide smoothing.
Of course, we need a software
library to send commands to and
receive data from the sensor, plus a
sketch to use the library.
After a bit of searching on the Arduino website in the “reference/en/
libraries” section and then in the list
of 900-odd contributed libraries for
communicating with sensors, I found
one called “PAS CO2 Arduino Library
v1.0.3”.
When I clicked on that one, it took
me to github.com, where I discovered
that the library was provided by and
maintained by Infineon! So it was
obviously the right one to download.
I downloaded the library zip file and
added it to my Arduino IDE’s list of
installed libraries. I then discovered
that it came with 12 example sketches
– four of which are for using the module’s PWM interface mode, while the
Fig.4: sample output
15:37:04.303
15:37:09.505
15:37:14.520
15:37:19.487
15:37:24.502
15:37:29.516
15:37:34.483
15:37:39.498
15:37:44.466
15:37:49.480
15:37:54.448
15:37:59.462
15:38:04.477
15:38:09.444
15:38:14.459
15:38:19.426
15:38:24.441
->
->
->
->
->
->
->
->
->
->
->
->
->
->
->
->
->
pas
co2
co2
co2
co2
co2
co2
co2
co2
co2
co2
co2
co2
co2
co2
co2
co2
co2
ppm
ppm
ppm
ppm
ppm
ppm
ppm
ppm
ppm
ppm
ppm
ppm
ppm
ppm
ppm
ppm
serial intialized
value : 633
value : 623
value : 621
value : 611
value : 609
value : 610
value : 649
value : 1018
value : 1255
value : 1254
value : 1256
value : 1317
value : 1409
value : 1418
value : 1405
value : 1392
other eight are for the serial interface
modes (ie, I2C or UART). The latter
had the following titles:
• serial-alarm
• serial-api-test
• serial-calibrate
• serial-device-id
• serial-diagnosis
• serial-oneshot
• serial-periodic
• serial-reset
I decided to try “serial-oneshot.ino”,
and when I loaded it, compiled it and
then uploaded it to the Arduino and
opened virtual serial port COM3, it all
sprang into life.
The PAS sensor measures 14
x 13.8mm, making it tiny in
comparison to the enlarged
photo shown here.
Fig.4 shows the output in the Arduino IDE Serial Monitor following the
startup of the serial-oneshot sketch.
The first line indicates that the PAS
CO2 and its I2C serial port have been
initialised, while the following lines
show the measured CO2 levels in ppm
(parts per million). These measurements are about five seconds apart,
as you can see from the timestamps.
The other thing to note from Fig.4
is that the initial seven readings are
all between 610ppm and 649ppm,
whereas the eighth reading suddenly
jumps up to 1018ppm and then following readings move up to 1418ppm
before starting to fall again.
At about 15:37:40, I exhaled towards
the PAS CO2 sensor. So it was responding to the sudden increase in CO2 level,
as it’s supposed to.
Encouraged by this initial success,
I then tried loading, uploading and
running the “serial-calibrate.ino”
example sketch. This sketch ran very
quickly, simply giving a “sensor now
calibrated” message before ending.
Summary
Despite being very compact, the
Infineon XENSIV PAS CO2 sensor
mini-board is a good performer. As
it uses a standard I2C interface, it
is compatible with just about any
microcontroller, including virtually
all Arduinos.
No doubt it would work with a
Micromite as long as it was set up to
send the correct I2C commands.
Although it is priced higher than
the MOS sensors we’ve looked at previously, and it needs a 12V supply, it
is a good choice if you want a small
and accurate CO2 sensor.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2022 85
SERVICEMAN’S LOG
Trail camera fun
Dave Thompson
Sometimes when you’re presented with a faulty device with no obvious
symptoms, you have to take an educated guess and repair the bit you
think is most likely to fail. That’s what I did this time, and while it was
a bit of a circuitous path, it eventually led me to the right conclusion.
Sometimes, you just need to trust your gut instinct.
Remote cameras have been used in sports and wildlife photography for decades, but they have increasingly
become both much more advanced and affordable recently.
One particular use of them that has grown hugely in the
last few years is in the great outdoors.
Hunters, nature photographers and conservationists are
all big users of so-called trail cameras (sometimes called
hunting cameras). These devices use increasingly modern
technology to allow users to ‘set and forget’ camera traps
out in the wild that (hopefully) capture images and videos
of animals or natural activity that is rarely seen.
The basic idea is simple: set up one or more cameras in
an area of interest, and anything that meanders past, day
or night, will trigger the camera into action. Most of the latest devices can record both high-resolution video and still
images, with the captured data stored on a built-in memory card. In some models, it is also transmitted via SMS/
MMS to a mobile phone.
Most of these cameras also have night-vision capability,
using arrays of high-intensity infrared LEDs to provide a
wide area of night-time illumination, even in complete
darkness.
The advantages of this scheme should be obvious; a
standard flashgun would work, but would scare off (not to
mention temporarily blind) any detected game. However,
the invisible-to-most-eyes infrared flash or flood would
not reveal the presence of anything out of the ordinary to
the quarry.
I first heard about these cameras many years ago, after
one of our cats went missing, and I looked into buying one
because reported sightings were coming in. We wanted
some way of knowing if he was turning up to these people’s places. He also may have been coming back home
after dark. Either way, we wanted to know.
I did my ‘due diligence’ and purchased a mid-priced unit
from a reputable brand at a local retailer. This model had
a 2-inch (5cm) screen for reviewing footage and a range of
functions we’d likely never use, all in a relatively compact,
camouflage-motif case.
I had a good play with it before deploying it, and it lived
up to the bumf. The photo quality was especially good,
even in complete darkness, though this was monochrome
– during the day, it took the usual full-colour snaps. Then
again, one would expect decent quality with a purported
12-megapixel sensor and a fixed-focus lens.
The camera used the older SD card format for data storage, and even a relatively-small 4GB card was enough for
a lot of photos. However, if the video recording option was
enabled, it used up the storage space pretty quickly, so I
stuck with stills initially.
Its battery life was good, but this model also had a ‘backpack’ battery holder, meaning an extra four AA-size cells
could be fitted, giving the camera a significant amount of
unattended operation capability.
The whole idea is to ‘set and forget’ and come back in a
few days, weeks or months to download what the camera
has captured in the meantime.
I soon learned that trawling through a thousand
almost-identical images was a considerable time investment! Leaves, wind, birds, hedgehogs, cats, dogs, mice and
bugs could set it off – and often, the image would show
nothing but a slight ‘spot’ in range of the PIR sensors. Ah
well, we don’t get anything for nothing!
Enter the customer
My point – as usual, a long time coming – is that a customer recently brought in one of these cameras for me to
look at. Ironically, he’d brought one into my workshop a
few years previously (a considerably older model) that he’d
been given but did not work.
When I cracked the case open, I could see why; someone
had stored it long-term with batteries in place, and they had
86
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Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Items Covered This Month
•
•
•
•
•
Messing around with a trail camera
The dilapidated pair of touch lights
The compact fault whisperer
Follow-up to Clenergy 1.5kW solar inverter
Repairing a lathe’s motor speed controller
Dave Thompson runs PC Anytime in Christchurch, NZ.
Website: www.pcanytime.co.nz
Email: dave<at>pcanytime.co.nz
Cartoonist – Louis Decrevel
Website: loueee.com
leaked – badly. The entire area of PCB beneath the battery
holder had corroded away, and the device was completely
dead. Even if I could see any tracks (or remains of tracks),
it would have been impossible to repair them.
He was philosophical about it – he’d been given it after
all – and used that as a premise to buy a fancy new one. It
was this new model that brought him back this time.
It had worked hard for several years, usually mounted
out by a run on his rural property, monitoring for feral cats
and any other predators that were breaking into the run and
decimating his chicken population. This had become an
essential piece of kit in preventing animals from poaching
his stock, and he was keen to get it back to work.
This meant that it had spent all of its working life sitting in weather, ranging from far below freezing to baking in the scorching summer heat. I was surprised it had
lasted this long! I hated to think what it was like inside,
IP66 rating or not!
The problem was that while it appeared to be working
(various lights on power-up etc), it was not taking any new
photos, the last one having been several weeks previously.
Something had happened in the meantime, although on
careful questioning, he did say that he had changed batteries ‘around’ that time. This was a clue, perhaps.
Getting it open was no challenge. Six screws held it all
together, and after removing them, I could gently ease the
case apart. It was pretty tight, which was caused (it turned
out) by the weather seals holding on tightly.
Each screw turret had a rubber seal between it and the
back of the case, and there was a large, embedded ‘o’ ring
in a channel around the very edge of the case. This is flattened slightly by the screw pressure on the other half of
the case, and should have kept the inside weatherproofed.
I was expecting carnage inside, given its working history, but it was actually pristine. That weatherproofing
did its job well!
The only real possibility of water/environment ingress
into the case would be through the hinged access panel.
When the camera is sitting normally, it is at the very bottom.
That puts it out of any real weather just by being where it
is, and that trapdoor has a seal on it as well.
Popping that hatch open reveals all the main controls,
including an Off/On/Test switch, external power and video
out connectors and mini-USB and SD card sockets.
The screen is on the rear of the device, covered by the
backplate in normal use, and below that are membrane-style
siliconchip.com.au
shuttle buttons for manually taking photos or movies and
for captured video and stills playback. This allows it to
essentially operate like a standard digital camera. Usually,
in ‘test’ mode, the screen is activated, and we can alter
camera settings and preview captured data; but that was
no longer happening.
Turning the camera ‘on’ using that switch would usually
result in a red LED embedded within the LED array flashing for 10 seconds before going dark, indicating the camera
is ‘armed’ and ready to detect any movement. The delay
gives the operator time to shut the hatch and exit the area
without taking any accidental selfies.
Pushing the switch further to ‘Test’ mode also fires up
the red LED, and then a blue one next to it lights up when
the two PIR sensors detect any movement. This allows
more accurate positioning of the camera’s detection area,
similar to a ‘walk’ test we do for home alarm PIR sensors.
As I mentioned earlier, the screen didn’t light up in Test
mode. Neither did the blue LED activate. All roads led to
Test mode not being entered at all, and on top of that, even
in normal operating mode, the camera no longer wrote anything to the SD card.
Something seems fishy
I suspected the switch itself. It didn’t ‘feel’ right when
actuated, and as one of the very few moving parts, it was
at risk of wearing out. Getting to it was not easy; the PCB,
which is stuffed with electronics, sits sandwiched between
the moulded battery holder and the hard-plastic back half
of the case.
Space is very tight, though the PCB screws and clips
would be relatively easy to access with a small screwdriver
once the battery holder was removed. Still, the battery
holder – a separate and quite-complex plastic moulding –
could only be removed once the power connections to the
PCB were de-soldered.
These connections were actually extensions of the battery spring connectors, and they were press-fitted into the
plastic holder. I had to be careful not to go too heavy on
the heat and melt them out of the housing! Some deft soldering iron work and pump/wick application soon had
the leads out and clear; the holder assembly could then
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2022 87
be unscrewed and unclipped from the PCB.
Now I had better access to the PCB screws and could take
that away from the case shell. This gave me direct access
to the switch. I was hoping it was the switch because, if
not, there would likely be little more I could do with it.
As is typical, there are no circuits or schematics available anywhere for these cameras and, even if I did have
one, troubleshooting something with this many tiny SMDs
is no fun at all.
The other thing I had to consider is that a very similar – if not better – camera is available from my favourite
online shopping site for under a hundred bucks. So any
fix on this would have to be pretty easy and inexpensive
to make it even worth repairing. Partly out of curiosity
(and the Serviceman’s Curse, obviously), I wanted to see
if I could get it working.
The switch is a reasonably standard-looking triple-pole,
triple-throw sliding type. As is becoming more usual, the
metal outside case is soldered to pads on the PCB, along
with the six soldered pins. Taking mounted components
like this off a PCB can be a chore, especially on multilayer boards.
That is, unless you don’t want them any longer, in
which case just cutting off what we can with a Dremel or
good side-cutters is the easiest way. Then it is just a matter of extracting the cut-off legs and whatever else remains
behind.
Rudimentary tests in-circuit weren’t that conclusive as
to whether it was making the right contacts or not, so I
decided just to cut the switch away and replace it with an
identical one. I have boxes full of new-old-stock switches
but nothing (of course) with the same dimensions and
pinout as the one I removed, so I hit the usual electronics
suppliers to see what they had.
Anyone who has used those
websites knows it can
be tricky to find what
we want among the
gazillions of possible
options. The use of specific search parameters is
essential, but it can still
take time to wade through
the results. I eventually
found one identical in every
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respect. While not expensive, there was a minimum order
amount, so I usually try to find some small hand tools to
top up the order amount.
It’s a tough job, but someone has to do it!
The switch arrived a few days later, and fitting it was
much easier than removing the old one! I temporarily
reassembled the board and battery holder on the bench
and powered it up. I’d like to report that I had fixed the
problem, but I’d be lying. It did precisely the same thing
as before. Oh well; that wasn’t the first time I’d been well
wide of the mark. On to plan B, then.
The SD card slot is the only other part that gets accessed
from the outside of the case, besides the battery holder and
on/off switch. While modern versions of these cameras use
MicroSD cards (which can be found up to 2TB [yes, that’s
2000GB] these days!), older cameras like this one utilise
the older and considerably physically-bigger SD cards.
They are still viable; many laptops come with card readers that can accept this type of media. The customer had
a 16GB card in this one and swapped it out with another
identical card when he went to service the camera every
week or so. That meant the cards got a fair bit of use, as
did the card socket inside the camera.
I tried using one of my own cards. While most cameras
can accept Windows/FAT32-formatted cards, for whatever
reason, they typically recommend that any ‘new’ card be
formatted by the camera itself.
As I couldn’t get to the display, I couldn’t format it, and
as his card worked fine via a card-reader on my workshop
computer, I made the educated guess that it was likely OK.
The user manual states that if a card is faulty, everything
will power on, but a ‘card error’ message is displayed.
Australia's electronics magazine
Doing some micro-surgery
Taking all that into
account, I turned my
attention to the socket
itself. As I mentioned earlier, the camera’s interior
was pristine, and nothing
was floating around inside it,
but I put the board under the
scope anyway for a look.
The soldering was not bad
siliconchip.com.au
overall, but a few spots looked dodgy up close. A quick
going over soon had those looking better. I paid particular attention around the SD socket, as several of the pins
looked a bit light on solder as well. And if I flexed the socket
slightly, one pin, in particular, appeared to be lifting away
from the solder pad.
It was difficult to see, even with the microscope, but I
decided to re-do the whole row of solder joints as a precaution. Pushing the media in and taking it out puts a fair
amount of stress on those joints and, unlike the switch
body, the flimsy metal frame of this connector was not well-
soldered to the board, with just a couple of tiny tabs on
either side of the socket near the pins anchoring it down.
Many SD connectors are (by design) very lightweight
and made to fit in very tight places. Given that one has to
‘push to click’ the media in, then push again to remove it,
it stands to reason that some wear and tear is inevitable.
I gave each pad a decent sweat of flux and solder, and it
looked much better. I couldn’t see anything else evident on
the PCB, so this was as far as I would go with it. I reassembled it properly; if it didn’t work now, at least it would be in
one piece for the customer. Getting the battery holder back
in was a bit of an act, but it was straightforward enough.
I loaded up the batteries and hit the switch to ‘Test’.
Imagine my surprise when the display lit up straight away!
I could surf for files on the media, and I could now adjust
settings and do a walk test, noting the blue LED indicating
the PIRs detecting my presence.
I set the switch to ‘On’ and, after the ‘get away’ period,
did several walk-pasts. I’m not much of a runway fashion
model, but it did result in photos of me appearing on the
card, so I was happy with that. It’s always worth giving a
repair a go; after all, it just might work!
Return of the dilapidated gear
B. P., of Dundathu, Qld is at it again, fixing up someone
else’s discarded gear and getting it to work again. It’s certainly cheaper than buying brand new...
I bought a pair of touch lights at the local tip shop, assuming they wouldn’t be working. The lights are ‘antique style’
and were in reasonably good condition, apart from some
corrosion from age and some of the parts in the shades being
loose. So they had nothing major wrong, appearance-wise.
After bringing them home, I removed the shades, put
3W LED globes in them, plugged one in and touched it.
Nothing happened, so I tried the second one, and it also
did not work. I guess this is why the previous owner had
discarded the lights.
I took the base plates off both lights and opened the black
boxes that house the electronics. The first thing I noticed
was that both lights had two bad electrolytic capacitors
on the circuit boards. I found equivalents in my salvaged
capacitors collection. After that, one light stayed on all the
time while the other light only worked sometimes, after
multiple touches. So there was something else wrong.
I could see that these lights used a BT136-600 Triac
and a TT6061 IC. I thought I would swap over the Triacs
between the two lights to see what would happen. Now
neither light worked, indicating that both components
were faulty in both lights. This was likely caused by the
bad electrolytic capacitors.
As I did not have either component in stock, I ordered
them on eBay. They weren’t available from Australian sellers, so I had to order both parts from China.
Once they arrived, I fitted them and set the lights up
for testing again. Now both lights worked. However, one
feature of the lights did not work correctly with the LED
globes. The first touch is supposed to turn the light on to
a dull setting, but they were obviously designed for incandescents and the LED globes flicker badly.
Touching the light a second time changes it to bright
mode, and the LED globes no longer flicker. Touching the
light again returns the light to dull mode, but there is now
very little flickering. Another touch turns the light off.
So the lights were now working correctly, other than the
problem with using LED globes. The best solution is just
to touch the lamp twice to turn it to bright mode straight
away. There isn’t much difference in brightness with the
LED globes between the two settings anyway.
I was able to screw the bases back onto the lights after
finally completing the repairs. After that, I gave them a good
wipe down with a damp cloth. Because the lights are made
from brass-plated steel, the surface cannot be cleaned too
aggressively; otherwise, it will be further damaged.
The slightly deteriorated look of the lights adds to the
antique appearance. Even though they are modern lights,
they look a lot older than they are, both with the style and
the ‘aged patina’.
Upon opening the base of the touch lights two bad electrolytic capacitors were immediately noticeable.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2022 89
Turning my attention to the shades, I straightened the
bent parts on the brackets, tightened the screws and cleaned
them with a damp cloth. The shades were actually in quite
good condition with all the parts being present and nothing
broken or chipped. Then I refitted the shades and screwed
the decorative nut on firmly.
So for a few dollars for the lights and around $7 in parts
(I bought 10 of each component), I now have two working touch lights. So that’s about $5 each in total. I looked
online to see if I could find the same light, and I found a
similar lamp for $220 for just one!
It’s handy to be able to fix things that someone else has
thrown away. The fact that these items can be purchased
cheaply at the tip shop means that they can be recycled or
repaired. Not to mention the massive saving compared to
buying new lights.
The fault whisperer
J. W., of Hillarys, WA ran into that strange situation where
he managed to fix a faulty device but isn’t really sure how
he did it. Oh well, a win is a win...
I was talking to a friend who worked as an audio specialist (now retired) at a Perth radio station about all the
equipment he used to work with. He mentioned that he had
a Studer A730 Professional CD player that had not worked
for a couple of years and asked if I could try to get it going
again. I told him I would take a look at it, so it ended up in
my workshop with the complete service manual.
Upon powering it up, there were no signs of life on the
front panel and a strange clicking noise emanating from
within. It seemed like a power supply problem to me. I
removed the six screws holding the front panel, although
one was difficult and had to be drilled out. I was then presented with the main board with approximately 60 ICs,
including two microprocessors.
With the front panel moved out of the way, I could hear
that the noise was not coming from the CD mechanism
but seemed to be a relay trying to operate at the rear of the
main board.
I checked the service manual and found there should
be four power supply rails: +5V, -5V, +12V and -15V. The
latter three were produced using LM317 and LM337 linear regulators and tested OK. An L296 switching regulator
generated the +5V supply, but the output only measured
about 0.4V. I downloaded the data sheet for the L296 and
found that the current was set to be limited to about 4A.
With my CRO connected to the +5V line, I found that it
was trying to start but being shut down by its over-current
protection. I disconnected the front panel and audio output
boards but found the +5V was still not present.
I then removed the main board from the case and made
a cable for the secondary of the power transformer, so that
An exterior (left) and interior (right) shot of the Studer A730 CD player.
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Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
I could run it away from the case where the mains transformer was situated.
Now I could move the board around and give it a good
visual inspection; nothing seemed to be getting hot or
looked damaged. I manipulated the board and then tapped
around with a probe, producing no change in the situation.
I decided to start trying to isolate sections of the main board
and see if the +5V would come to life.
After cutting several tracks to no avail, I discovered that
the board was multi-layered with a least one copper plane
not accessible, so I could not isolate any more sections. I
decided to remove the output inductor from the switching
regulator and use my high-current linear power supply to
replace the +5V supply. This way, I might be able to produce
some evidence of overheating from the faulty component.
I set my supply to 5V and 4A and powered up the player
and my supply. The current hit its limit at the 4A setting,
delivering about 2.5V. I then started to feel each component to see if it was getting hot. While doing that, its output voltage increased to 4.1V, with the current still at 4A.
A short time later, I noticed that the voltage had gone
up to 5V and the current had dropped to 900mA, so the
overload had cleared. I then tried to bring the fault back
by tapping each component and flexing the board, but it
did not fail again. Had the problem disappeared entirely,
or was it intermittent?
I reconnected the original power and was greeted with
a steady 5.1V. After connecting the front panel and audio
boards back up, I powered the player up again and was
greeted with NO DISC showing on the front panel display. I inserted a CD and pressed play; the player was now
working properly.
I let it run for a few days before ringing my friend to
tell him the news. Two days later, I walked into the workshop to find smoke streaming from the back of the player,
although the CD was still playing.
I turned it off and lifted the front panel to find the mains
filter and switch assembly was quite hot, but the mains
transformer was not. I removed the mains filter and noticed
some smelly liquid coming from the power switch. It looked
like the mains suppression circuit had failed.
I ordered a replacement unit and connected the mains
transformer to a spare power cord so I could let the system
run again. The player ran flawlessly until the replacement
mains filter arrived. I fitted that and screwed the front panel
back in place. After letting it run for another few days, I
rang my friend.
He was delighted and told me he thought the player was
still worth a few thousand dollars. I saw one on eBay for
€3000 – over $4000! It has been a few months now, and
the player is still working fine. I never found out what had
caused the +5V line to be overloaded. Perhaps it was some
sort of ‘tin whisker’ that burned away when I applied 4A
continuously.
Follow-up to the Clenergy 1.5kW solar inverter
R. S., of Figtree Pocket, Qld has a follow-up to the Clenergy 1.5kW solar inverter repair storage that we published
on page 101 of the May 2021 issue (siliconchip.au/Article/
14862)...
The “Ground I Fault” message is caused by drift in the
Hall Effect based current sensor, which monitors any current difference (caused by faulty panel insulation) between
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2022 91
The exterior and interior of the motor controller are shown above, while the underside of the replacement motor
controller is shown below. It worked fine for a few weeks, but then blew up, fusing one of the tracks (marked in red).
the inverter AC output Active and Neutral lines. The sensor is in the bottom-left corner of the inverter and looks
like a toroid.
There is more than one version of this sensor. The later
versions are more stable, so the newer inverters do not
have this fault. There does not seem to be an easy way to
adjust for the drift. It might be that the only way to fix an
inverter giving this message is to replace that sensor with
the latest version.
Repairing a lathe’s motor speed controller
While repairing a motor speed controller, D. S., of Maryborough, Qld discovered a horribly flawed design. Had the
controller not failed, it might have been a lethal hazard...
B. P.’s repair in the November 2021 Serviceman’s Log
column reminded me of a service call I made to a local
woodcarver. He called me and said that his wood lathe had
gone bang. Being a mains-powered lathe, I advised him to
switch off the power and wait for me to get there.
When I checked out the lathe, nothing seemed amiss –
no damaged wiring, no burn marks on the motors or any
other signs of a problem.
I switched the power back on and re-checked the lathe.
The spindle motor worked correctly, as did the speed
controller for it. However, this lathe has a small secondary motor. It is much smaller than the main spindle motor
and has a small drill chuck fitted to the end. This auxiliary
motor can be used to carve various patterns into the spinning workpiece by adjusting speeds and the cutting bit.
This motor did not work at all. There were no voltages
present anywhere.
I had to remove the top shield over the main motor controls to access the smaller motor controls. This smaller
motor is an add-on and was modified to fit the existing lathe.
But it seems that its speed controller decided to die a couple of weeks earlier, after giving several years loyal service.
The owner decided that he would find a replacement
controller on eBay. He did find one and at a fraction of
the cost of the original. As the replacement unit had the
same connections as the previous one, he fitted himself. It
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Silicon Chip
worked fine for a couple of weeks, then boom!
This damage was actually a godsend. As you can see
from the photo of the underside, one of the mains tracks
intersects a mounting hole that has a metal screw going
through it and the metal shield around the whole thing.
The separation is so minimal that the vibration of normal
work eventually caused the track to short against the shield,
causing the track to vaporise.
Neither of the onboard fuses blew, and the safety switch
for the workshop did not trip off. I checked the Earth circuit from the lathe to the power board and found it safe,
and a quick safety switch check revealed a normal trip
current of 30mA. So at least the proximity of that track to
the shield would not have caused the frame of the lathe to
become live, although I don’t know why the safety switch
did not trip.
I replaced this unsafe device with a new controller made
in Australia. Although a bit more expensive, it is a lot safer.
Please be very careful buying mains-powered items from
eBay. Cheap units are flooding the market, and a considerable number of them are simply not safe! If you have any
SC
doubts, please consult a licensed electrician.
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Vintage Radio
1966 Astor “Diamond Dot”
CJ-12 Car Radio
By Dr Hugo Holden
This car radio is a piece of Australian history. It was in such poor
condition that I almost threw it away, but it has cleaned up a treat. True
to its name, it has a fake diamond-like ‘jewel’ embedded in the front
panel. Perhaps the most fascinating aspect is that most of its components,
including the transistors, were locally made!
I was cleaning out my shed and
found a very old and rusty MW-band
(AM) car radio with missing knobs
and a broken and yellowed dial. I had
acquired it for my 1966 Triumph TR4A, as it was period correct. But I ended
up fitting a Motorola AM radio with an
FM converter instead, and had forgotten all about this Astor radio.
It had what looked like a diamond
set into the metalwork. It is not a real
diamond, of course; it is more like
a costume jewellery variant, but it
still gives the front escutcheon an
eye-catching look.
The radio was in such poor condition that I almost threw it away, as I
was in the process of a big cleanup.
But I decided to take a closer look. The
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Silicon Chip
more I looked at it, the more interesting it became, so I decided it was worthy of a complete restoration. It turned
out very nicely, as I think you’ll agree
from the photo.
The radio’s dial is quite a piece of
Australian broadcasting history, with
rows of station IDs for different states:
TAS, NSW, VIC, SA, NT, WA and QLD.
I noticed one of my favourite radio
stations listed as KQ, which is 4KQ
in Brisbane. Obviously, this radio
was intended to be used anywhere
in Australia (given that cars were not
only sold throughout Australia but
also mobile, that makes perfect sense).
Car radio design history
I have always found the design of car
Australia's electronics magazine
radios interesting, especially because
they commonly use permeability tuning, which permits easy pushbutton
station selection.
Also, my very first job out of school
in the 1970s was working at a car radio
factory called “Aerial Radio” in Auckland. That is where I learned about car
radios. I worked in a final testing station, putting the radios through their
paces and fixing any assembly errors
before they were boxed up for sale.
Car radios made before 1955 used
valves (vacuum tubes). Generally, the
HT supply was provided by a vibrator and step-up transformer; the tube
anode voltages were similar to those
in a line-powered domestic radio, in
the 200-300V range.
siliconchip.com.au
In the mid-to-late 1950s, valves that
required only 12V at the anode, such
as the EF98 and ECH83, were devised.
These were usually combined with a
single germanium power transistor,
typically a 2N441, in a class-A audio
output stage with a collector choke.
This ‘hybrid’ design was very popular until the early 1960s. The low HT
voltage tubes eliminated the need for
the vibrator.
The hybrid radio audio stage generally used one EF98, and with a 10MW
input grid resistance, this would
drive a 23:1 transformer. That fed the
base-emitter junction of the 2N441
power transistor, which would have
a choke as the collector load, with the
speaker connected directly across the
choke, or to a tap on it.
This hybrid design resulted in an
audio amplifier system that required
about 2-3V peak for full volume, with
an output power of around 4-5W.
Having an input impedance of
10MW at the grid and an output
impedance of 4-8W was impressive,
especially for just one valve and one
transistor. However, it was not energy-
efficient, and the transistor required
moderate heatsinking. After all, in
class-A, the idle power consumption
is often a similar value to the maximum audio output power.
In 1955, the first ‘all-transistor’ car
radio appeared on the scene in the
USA. This was the Mopar (Chrysler)
model 914HR. Hybrid radios were still
prevalent at that time.
The 914HR was made possible by
some revolutionary new surface barrier radio frequency transistors, with
very low base to collector feedback
capacitances.
These were rivalled perhaps only by
germanium RF transistors such as the
OC169, which appeared later, in 1960.
There is an interesting YouTube video
about this revolutionary Mopar radio
at https://youtu.be/Qz3JkFnvBuA
Mopar all-transistor radios were fitted to the 1956 Chrysler and Imperial
car models. It took about five years
for other manufacturers to catch up,
before the all-transistor car radios took
over. So the Mopar 914HR was some
years ahead of the times.
By the early 1960s, most countries
started mass producing all-transistor
car radios. By the mid-1960s, not only
were most car radios of this type,
but in keeping with other transistor
radios, the audio output stages had
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the damaged dial from the Astor “Diamond Dot” radio.
Fig.2: this is what the radio looked like after being disassembled, just before
commencing restoration.
moved to push-pull class-AB designs.
These had significantly improved
efficiency over the class-A designs of
hybrid radios.
These class-AB designs were essentially class-B amplifiers but with
enough initial bias to overcome crossover distortion. This cut the radio’s
power consumption to the point that
you could get away with accidentally
leaving your car radio on overnight
and just be able to start your car in
the morning.
The initial push-pull audio output
stage designs used a driver and output transformer. Later, a split driver
transformer was used, eliminating
the output transformer and saving the
cost and weight of the iron core. The
speaker was coupled to the power output transistors via a capacitor.
Then, with an abundance of good
silicon NPN and PNP power output
transistors, totally transformerless circuit topologies with complementary
audio output transistors appeared.
After the mid-1970s, the entire audio
stages often were replaced by a single
Australia's electronics magazine
IC, as was the trend in many domestic radios.
Therefore, one could expect a transistor car radio from the mid-1960, like
the Astor Diamond Dot, to be sporting
a push-pull output stage, probably
with coupling transformers. And that
is indeed what it has.
But what about the transistors? What
was Astor using, and where did they
come from?
Inspecting my radio, I immediately
noticed two grey ceramic transistors
with black resin tops with the part
numbers AX1130 on their sides. I was
about to learn more about the sadly lost
and once amazing Australian transistor manufacturing industry (more on
this in the panel near the end of the
article).
Restoring the radio
There were some interesting problems to solve in the restoration, mainly
related to oxidised metalwork, missing
front panel retaining nuts and missing
knobs. Fig.2 shows the radio in a state
of disassembly before restoration.
July 2022 95
Fig.3: the radio
originally used two
Anodeon AT-1138
(shown opposite)
transistors. Those
were replaced with
AD149 germanium
transistors, as
shown in the photo.
Fig.4: The rusted Anodeon AT-1138
transistors were painted and stored in
case they were ever needed later.
Fig.5: I machined two new hex nuts to
mount the front escutcheon.
Disassembly required removing several rivets (later replaced) to separate
the audio amplifier heatsink assembly
from the metal lid.
The dial was yellowed through its
entire thickness, except where it was
shaded from sunlight along its upper
and lower edges. It had hardened and
cracked.
The metal had pitted due to surface
rusting, more on the top of the radio
than the bottom. The stripping processing before re-electroplating eliminates all the rust crystals. This must
be done because ‘rust never sleeps’,
and when I see radios that have supposedly been “restored” by painting
over the rust, it makes me cringe.
After electroplating, the metal pits
remain, but at least the surface is
plated and no longer rusting.
The radio used quite a few
self-threading screws, all very rusty.
I replaced the common ones (eg, garden size #4 and size #6) with new
screws, but for the special low-profile
countersunk head types that are hard
to get, I had to send those to the electroplater to be re-plated.
I was able to replace all the rivets with identical geometry rivets,
except for the two small ones above
the AD149 on the left. I had to replace
those with small stainless steel screws.
The two original germanium output transistors, the Anodeon AT-1138
types, had rusted. So I replaced these
with a very well-matched pair of
AD149 germanium transistors with
equally good performance, if not
superior (see Fig.3). I kept the original Anodeon transistors and painted
them, in case somebody would prefer to use them later (shown in Fig.4).
The special nuts which secured
the front escutcheon were missing. I
searched and could not find any, so I
machined two from hexagonal brass
bar on my mini-lathe (Fig.5). The
thread is 3/8in diameter, 32 threads
per inch (TPI), and I was able to get
those taps on eBay. An 8.5mm drill
worked well. I took the fibre washers
from some panel-mount fuse holders
I had in my junk box.
As for the knobs, I bought some plastic replica knobs on eBay but was disappointed with the quality.
Fig.6: knobs from another Astor car radio were modified to fit the Diamond Dot.
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Australia's electronics magazine
I eventually found some original
metal knobs from another model of
Astor transportable car radio. They
were almost perfect, but the centre
knob was designed to push onto a ¼in
shaft. This radio had 3/16in shafts for
the centre knob, so I machined brass
inserts to fit into the centre knobs to
make them compatible. These inserts
are visible in Fig.6.
The ARTS&P sticker on the radio
body was moderately marked, so I
scanned it (Fig.7) and made a replica.
The photo in Fig.8 was taken near
the end of the rebuild, after the metalwork came back from the electroplater.
The upper panel (radio’s lid, #1 in
Fig.8) holds the audio amplifier assembly, and a leash of wires linked it to
the main radio board. For ease of restoration, I cut the wires and inserted
0.9mm gold-plated pins and sockets
(from Jaycar) to make it easy to separate the audio amplifier and top plate
assembly.
#2 in Fig.8 points to the two interesting Australian-made Fairchild
AX1130 transistors. These act as drivers for the two germanium output
Fig.7: the original ARTS&P sticker,
which shows the model number. A
replica was made of this sticker.
siliconchip.com.au
transistors, in the Darlington configuration. This reduces the required drive
current to the output stage.
When I first powered the radio, one
of these transistors was defective, so I
desoldered it from the PCB. All transistors on the main board in this radio
had sleeved leads, so the lead wires
were not directly visible. The transistors are interesting as, in common with
many of the Fairchild types of the time,
they have gold-plated steel lead wires.
I found that the defective AX1130
had one lead wire that was totally
rusted through. But there was enough
of it projecting from the transistor
body to save the transistor by joining
another wire.
I decided to inspect the other transistors on the main board in the radio
frequency sections. All the lead wires
had grossly rusted, extending right up
to the transistors’ plastic bodies. Ultimately, I elected to replace all of them
with high-quality mil-spec 2N2222A
transistors to avoid any future troubles. This radio must have been in a
very moist environment, possibly even
saturated with water at one point.
After replacing the radio’s electrolytic capacitors, powering the radio
and adjusting the output’s stages quiescent current, I tested the audio output stages with a signal generator. I
then moved onto the radio-frequency
sections. The radio was stone dead,
with just a faint hiss from the speaker.
I quickly determined that the local
oscillator (LO) was not operating. I
checked the transistors’ DC conditions, and they were normal. I worried
that the oscillator coil in the permeability tuning unit could have gone
open-circuit. Testing showed that the
oscillator started when a 47pF capacitor was placed in parallel with the
existing 56pF feedback capacitor in the
oscillator circuit (#3 in Fig.8).
Fig.9 shows this capacitor in the
circuit. It provides positive feedback
from the tank circuit to maintain
oscillation. At first, I thought that the
requirement for more feedback capacitance indicated the transistor stage
gain had dropped or the coil losses
had increased. I tested the 56pF polystyrene capacitor shown in Fig.11; it
had zero leakage and read 57pF on my
YF-150 capacitance meter.
Yet, I found when I replaced it with
a new 50pF capacitor that the oscillator ran normally. How could that be
when the 56pF capacitor tested fine? I
siliconchip.com.au
#1
#2
#3
#4
Fig.8: the internal topside of the chassis is marked with four locations: #1 radio
lid and audio amplifier assembly; #2 two Australian-made Fairchild AX1130
transistors; #3 local oscillator; #4 permeability tuning mechanism.
Fig.9: a section of the oscillator circuit with a 56pF capacitor shown. This 56pF
capacitor provides feedback from the tank circuit.
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2022 97
Fig.10
Fig.11: the 56pF capacitor from the
radio was faulty, despite having
zero leakage and reading fine on a
capacitance meter. It was replaced
with a new 50pF capacitor.
have never seen this defect in a polystyrene capacitor before.
Of course, when a technician finds
a faulty part, it most often gets thrown
in the bin, as it is not cost-effective to
investigate it. But I decided to attempt
to find out what was wrong with this
56pF capacitor, in light of the disturbing fact that it tested as normal on my
meters but didn’t work.
Testing it with a signal generator and
a scope, I determined that its ESR had
increased massively, to around 22kW.
Of course, ESR meters cannot measure
low-value capacitors like this. I then
tried measuring known-good lowvalue capacitors in the range of 50 to
100pF with 22kW resistors in series on
my YF-150 capacitance meter; it was
unable to detect the significant series
resistance.
Presumably, inside the capacitor,
the bonds or connections between
the lead-in wires and the foils have
become oxidised or corroded.
The implications of this sort of failure are interesting. If a capacitor with
this fault were used instead in a tuned
circuit in an RF amplifier, it would not
throw the centre frequency off to any
significance. Still, it would certainly
lower the circuit Q, lowering the gain
and increasing the bandwidth.
Since, after alignment, this radio is
now working properly and is sensitive,
I have not removed any of the other
polystyrene capacitors for testing.
The permeability tuning mechanisms of vintage car radios (#4 in Fig.8)
are fascinating. They have continuous tuning by the control knob and
preset pushbutton tuning, which acts
as mechanical memory for preferred
stations. When a button is pushed, a
sliding arm disengages a clutch mechanism to mechanically isolate the tuning knob.
With time, these rubber clutches
have a habit of slipping, even with an
otherwise well-lubricated mechanism.
The rubber ages and hardens, its surface becomes glazed and the metal disc
it runs against can become quite polished. Disassembling it and replacing
the rubber disc requires pressing off a
gear from the assembly’s shaft, which
is better avoided.
Cleaning the rubber disc with
isopropyl alcohol (IPA) helps but often
won’t solve the problem.
I developed a method to fix these
clutches using some very thin cardboard, similar to thin transformer
card with an adhesive on one side.
A washer is made the same size as
the rubber disc, and the central hole
is opened to the disc perimeter. The
clutch is opened manually or by pushing a button, and the disc is inserted
with the adhesive facing the metal disc
surface, and it sticks to that.
The rubber face then runs on the
card face rather than the shiny metal
surface, increasing the friction and
preventing slipping.
As an aside, my view is that the continuously variable tuning knob is the
safest method to use a radio while driving a car. The driver could keep their
eyes on the road while turning a knob,
and stop on the station they liked the
sound of. Other radio tuning methods
could require the driver to take their
eyes off the road.
Circuit diagram
The circuit diagram (Fig.10) and
PCB layout (Fig.12) are reproduced
here. This diagram, the manual for this
radio and other relevant documentation is available from Kevin Chant’s
website at siliconchip.au/link/abek
The transistors were drawn in a way
typical of some early 1960s vintage
Australian transistor manufacturing
Bardeen, Brattain and Shockley invented the point-contact
transistor at Bell Labs in December 1947 and announced
it to the world in 1948. Shockley’s junction transistor was
also announced that year. Within a decade, four companies came to invest in Australian transistor manufacturing:
AWA, STC, Philips and Ducon.
All came to manufacture germanium-alloy junction transistors in Australia in the late 1950s to early 1960s.
But what about silicon transistors, specifically, the
AX1130 in the 1966 Astor radio? I looked in my parts inventory for similar transistors and came up with the devices
shown in the accompanying photo.
These transistors, all with the A prefix, were manufactured by Fairchild’s Australian division. They are relatively
rare now, unlike most transistor types. If you search for
them on eBay trying to find a spare part, you do not get any
hits, as these transistors are ‘unique Australiana’.
In June 1964, Radio Television and Hobbies magazine
carried the following announcement: “A new Australian
company to produce heat resisting silicon transistors
has been formed in Melbourne. An offshoot of the Fairchild Camera and Instrument Corporation of New York,
the Australian company will be known as Fairchild Australia Pty Ltd”.
siliconchip.com.au
In 1966, the company opened its laboratory facilities
(see the EA article on page 102). The factory closed in 1973,
and the AY/AX series of transistors unique to Fairchild in
Australia became obsolete.
For more on the history of transistor manufacturing in
Australia, see this fascinaring website: http://siliconchip.
au/link/abel
A short list of some Australian-made transistors from
Fairchild Semiconductors.
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2022 99
Fig.12
radios. One interesting thing is that
the audio driver transformer does not
have a primary winding.
Due to the Darlington output devices
made from the combination of the
AX-1130 and AT-1138 transistors, the
output stage has a fairly high impedance. Therefore, the driver transistor
can simply capacitively couple into one
side of the driver ‘transformer’, which is
essentially a centre-tapped choke, and
acts like an auto-transformer.
Upper transistor #144 gets its drive
directly from the previous stage (via
an AC-coupling capacitor) while lower
transistor #144 gets its phase-inverted
drive from the other end of the centre-
tapped autotransformer. The centre tap
is held at a mid-rail voltage point due
to the action of Vbe multiplier transistor #143.
I measured the properties of this
transformer, as well as the output
transformer, in case others need to
wind replacements for faulty units.
The driver transformer is bifilar wound
on a 7.5 x 7.5mm cross-section core
and each winding measured 195W
and 2.3H.
The output transformer is designed
for a 15W speaker and it is wound using
0.5mm diameter enamelled copper
wire on a 15.4 x 15.4mm cross-section
core. Its two primary windings measured 1W & 66.5mH with the single
secondary measuring 2W & 190mH.
The windings ratio is 1.7:1.
Performance
This radio is a good performer, sensitive in the RF circuitry due to a tuned
RF stage, one mixer stage, separate
local oscillator injection and two IF
stages. On the audio side, it’s a good
performer with a push-pull class-AB
output stage, with plenty of audio output power for use in a car.
The audio amp in the Astor radio is
pretty good. The use of a 15W speaker
is unusual in latter days for a car
radio; most became 4W. But of course,
when you have an output matching
transformer, it is easy to use higher-
impedance speakers, if more costly.
Astor don’t mention the maximum
audio output power in their manual.
With a 12V supply, you end up with
about 10-11V swing before peak clipping in the collector load (half of the
output transformer primary) because
of the collector-emitter saturation voltage of the Darlington pair, and their
emitter resistors.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.13: the internal underside of the chassis shows just a few discrete
components attached via point-to-point wiring.
So the power delivered to the 15W
speaker just on clipping can be calculated as about 6-7W, allowing for
transformer losses. It is more like 8W,
given that the radio’s supply voltage
creeps closer to 14V while driving, as
the battery is charging. That is plenty
of audio power, even in a noisy car.
It is physically very well made, and
rivals any MW-band car radio made in
any other country. I am glad I could see
the potential in this radio, to become
something beautiful again and took
the time to restore it. It would make
a fine addition to a vintage car of the
same period.
This radio is a reminder of how
advanced Australian electronics and
transistor manufacturing was in the
Australia's electronics magazine
mid-1960s. This saddens me, as we
were once able to make our own transistors and ICs.
The worst thing about this is the
strategic significance of this, with
the inability to build our own electronics, and the impact of disrupted
supply chains for electronics, medicines and other vital products that is
now quite apparent. This has exposed
how dependent we have become on
overseas-made products.
When high-tech manufacturing
infrastructure and ability is lost, it
takes decades to rebuild it. The human
skill-base and required engineering
experience get lost along with it. The
problem goes much deeper than derelict factories and unemployment. SC
July 2022 101
Fairchild now making TO-92
plastic transistors in Australia
A new manufacturing line for moulded plastic transistors in the Jedec TO-92
package is now in full production at Fairchild Australia’s plant in Croydon,
Victoria. Most of the production equipment used in the new line has been
made by Australian manufacturers.
The new line has been turning out
commercial quantities of TO-92 moulded
plastic devices for some weeks now. Most
of the output has been going in large orders
to commercial customer, but the products
are being released to the general market this
month. Approximately 10 different types of
product are currently being made in the TO-92
package, including both bipolar transistors
and JFETs.
In most cases the new devices are
electrically identical with existing devices
marketed in the familiar TO-5 and TO-18
metal can or epoxy “glob-top” packages. As
far as the end user is concerned, the main
difference is that they come in a characteristic
moulded silicone package, which is halfround in cross section and roughly the same
size as a TO-18 device.
From the manufacturing viewpoint, there
are more important differences between
102
Silicon Chip
TO-92 devices and metal can or epoxy types.
For economical plastic moulding, devices
must be grouped together in batches rather
than handled separately; this dictates a
lead-frame approach to device fabrication,
where the devices progress through most of
the manufacturing steps in multiple strips
or frames. The frames are formed by the
metal lead header assembly of the individual
devices, held together by metal links which
are punched away only at the end of the
production process.
A big advantage of the lead-frame approach
is that it cuts down on the handling time
required for most manufacturing steps.
Operations like die-attachment and wire
bonding can thus be made more speedy and
efficient, with the operator no longer having
to load and unload individual devices. Lead
frames also lend themselves far more readily
to process automation, both because the
Australia's electronics magazine
This is a cleaned-up
reproducion of an article
from the February 1973 issue
of Electronics Australia. It is
relevant to two articles in this
issue:
1. Dr Hugo Holden’s Vintage
Radio column on the Astor
Diamond Dot.
2. Dr David Maddison’s article
on IC Fabrication.
by JAMIESON ROWE
headers are uniformly spaced and orientated,
and because the frames are readily indexed
and incremented. In their new line Fairchild
are using 50-device lead frames, measuring
about 285mm in length. The frames are
punched and formed overseas from a special
copper alloy, selected for its low thermal
resistance, and are gold-plated locally before
use. The use of a relatively long frame permits
production rates of typically 600 devices per
hour for die attachment, 400 per hour for
wire bonding, more than 5,000 per hour for
plastic moulding and 12,000 per hour for final
cropping apart.
Fairchild Australia’s production engineer
Frank Fimmel designed the new TO-92 line
and supervised all aspects of its setting-up.
When I talked to him recently at the Croydon
plant, Frank was justifiably proud of the
project, for two main reasons. One was
that he had been able to set up the line in
siliconchip.com.au
Picture at top of opposite page shows the main bonding and assembly
lines at Fairchild’s plant in Croydon. The lines which have been
converted for TO-92 are at extreme right. At left on this page is a
close-up of a wire bonding station, showing a leadframe under way.
Above is the cropping and shearing press, which divides the frames
up into individual devices at the rate of 12,000 per hour. Below is the
moulding press, with frame preheater at left and dielectric heater
for the moulding pellets at right.
a considerably shorter time than similar
overseas lines, and for a cost only a third
as great.
The other reason was that he had been
able to obtain most of the new equipment
from Australian manufacturers. The plastic
moulding press was manufactured by Archer
Hydraulics, of Stanmore in Sydney; the
impregnation equipment by Dynavac, and
the de-flashing equipment by O. Granowski,
both of Melbourne; and the cropping and
separation press by John Heine, of Sydney.
All of these manufacturers had made similar
equipment before, although this was the
first time that each had made equipment for
transistor manufacture.
Early production steps such as die
attachment and wire bonding are much the
same for TO-92 devices as for metal can types.
siliconchip.com.au
except that the operations are carried out
on the lead frames. After wire bonding the
frames are thoroughly cleaned by washing
in de-ionised water, which prepares them for
plastic moulding.
Fairchild’s moulding press handles two
lead frames at once – i.e., it moulds 100
devices at a time. The frames are supported
in carriers, and are pre-heated in the carriers
Australia's electronics magazine
prior to loading in the press.
Pellets of the special silicone moulding
compound used in the press are preconditioned in a 1kW dielectric heater, which
reduces them to the consistency of soft putty.
They are then inserted into the injection
system of the press, after the moulding dies
are closed around the transistor lead frames.
The moulding itself then takes place after
July 2022 103
Impregnation with silicone resin, for hermetic sealing.
the operator activates dual interlock buttons,
which are designed to prevent accidents.
Following moulding the frames are
baked in an oven at 200 degrees C to
harden the encapsulation, and de-flashed
by blasting with a stream of crushed walnut
shell particles. After this they undergo a
pressure impregnation process, in which
a special silicone resin is forced into the
moulded plastic under high pressure to
ensure hermeticity. The special silicone
resin used for the impegnation is imported
and very expensive – $90 per gallon. After
impregnation the frames are baked a second
time to cure the resin and complete the
hardening of the encapsulation.
Final step in the actual manufacture of
the devices is cropping, performed by a very
accurate punch and die set in a mechanical
press. Here the metal links which joined
the leads of the devices together in the lead
frame are sheared away, separating them into
individual units at a rate of 200 per minute.
As with other devices, the TO-92 transistors
then progress to the testing and sorting
section, where automated testing equipment
under computer control sorts them into the
various device categories corresponding to
programmed parameter range combinations.
They then pass through Quality Assurance to
final marking and packing ready for despatch.
In getting their TO-92 line going,
Fairchild have had to master the two main
problems associated with plastic moulded
semiconductor devices. The first of these
is protection of the actual device chip and
its wire leads, both during the moulding
process and the subsequent curing. There
is a tendency for the wire leads especially
to be “washed away” by the flow of plastic
during the moulding, and also for the leads
to be broken by strain produced by plastic
shrinkage during the curing.
Part of Fairchild’s solution to the washaway problem is the detailed design of their
lead frame, which has the chip sited on top of
a small horizontal bracket formed at the top
of the collector lead. Besides supporting the
104
Silicon Chip
At top right is the
deflashing station, where
excess plastic swarf is
removed by blasting with
walnut shell powder. At
right is a die attachment
station.
chip and helping to lock the assembly inside
the moulded package, the bracket also tends
to deflect the flow of plastic away from the
chip and its leads.
But Frank Fimmel tells me that the shape
of the lead frame is only part of the story.
The exact design of the moulding die is
quite critical, together with the temperature
and pressure used. And the composition of
the moulding compound is also critical, not
only with regards to wash-away but also to
minimise shrinkage strain. It is not surprising
that the silicone moulding compound used is
actually the most expensive part of a TO-92
device, in terms of actual material cost.
The second problem which has
traditionally plagued moulded plastic devices
is the difficulty in obtaining true hermeticity.
Fairchild are confident that they have licked
the problem with their pressure impregnation
process, and extensive testing by their Q
& A department justifies their confidence.
Naturally most of the answer must lie in the
impregnation resin, and they aren’t giving
away any secrets; but it must be a rather
special brew at $90 per gallon!
Apart from involving mastery of the two
traditional problems associated with moulded
plastic devices, Fairchild believe their TO-92
devices are exceptionally rugged both in the
mechanical and electrical senses.
Some moulded packages have been
notorious for either losing leads completely,
or allowing sufficient lead movement to cause
Australia's electronics magazine
faulty operation. To obviate this problem
Fairchild have designed their lead frame so
that each of the three leads for a device is
doubly locked into the final moulding, and
prevented from being withdrawn and from
moving.
The special copper alloy used for the leads
and the carefully tailored thermal coefficients
of the materials in the overall package make
Fairchild’s TO-92 package particularly rugged
in the electrical sense compared with a
comparable size device such as the TO-18
globtop. Normal dissipation tests have shown
that short-term overloads of much higher
magnitude can be carried without damage.
Some devices have operated at 2.5 watts for
more than 3 hours before finally succumbing!
Fairchild are predicting that globtop
devices will be progressively phased out by
TO-92 products within the next 2-4 years,
and that the lower production costs of TO-92
compared with metal can products will result
in eventual domination of the low power
discrete market. In short, the future of TO-92
seems very bright.
Although they have announced general
plans to expand the range of TO-92 products
as the market develops, Fairchild aren’t
commenting on other possibilities for plastic
moulded devices. No doubt the current
deliberations of the Tariff Board will influence
future plans, but my guess is that plastic
moulded ICs might be next.
Reproduced from Electronics Australia, February 1973.
siliconchip.com.au
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Send your email to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
Substitute transformer
for 500W Amplifier
I have a question regarding the
toroidal transformer used in the
500W Amplifier (April-June 2022;
siliconchip.au/Series/380). The recommended transformer is RS Components Cat 1234050 ($420) with two
110V primary windings, two 55V secondary windings and an 800VA rating.
element14 has a toroidal 2 × 55V
transformer rated at 625VA for $151. Is
that a possible substitute for the specified transformer without losing much
performance? (J. C., via email)
● The overall continuous output
power from the Amplifier would be
lower compared to the 800VA transformer. You could use the VTX-146625-155 625VA toroidal transformer
(element14 Cat 1675103) instead of
the specified transformer.
However, under normal listening
conditions and program material, it
would be difficult to notice the difference without a side-by-side comparison between two amplifiers with
each transformer.
You might prefer the VTX-146-625255 (element14 Cat 2817718) with two
115V primary windings (like the one
we specified from RS components) that
can be used in series for 230V mains.
It’s cheaper again by $30.
Note that the wiring colours for the
primary and secondary windings on
the transformer appear to be the same
as the transformer we used. Take care
when doing the wiring to ensure you
have the correct windings connected.
Where to start with
getting into electronics?
I am considering a career change and
thought about getting into electronics.
I have not had much to do with electronics, just doing a bit of wiring. Can
you recommend books or courses to get
me started? (J. W., via email)
● There are many different approaches
to learning electronics.
You have obviously seen our magazine. While some of the content will
be over your head at this stage, you
will still pick up a lot by reading it,
especially sections like Circuit Notebook and the simpler project articles.
We also have some articles on fundamental electronics like the following:
• All About Capacitors – March
2021 (siliconchip.au/Article/14786)
• The History of Op Amps – August
2021 (siliconchip.au/Article/14987)
• LTspice tutorials – June, August
& September 2017 (siliconchip.au/
Series/317)
• How Switchmode Controllers
Work – February 2011 (siliconchip.
au/Article/910)
• Low-cost Electronic Modules –
October 2016 to the present (siliconchip.au/Series/306)
Other things you can try include:
1. Buy an Arduino kit that includes
an Arduino board and other components. There are a vast number of
Arduino projects on internet sites that
you can try.
2. Check out Rod Elliott’s website
at https://sound-au.com – while he
specialises in audio, he also has free
articles on many general electronics
topics, such as the following:
• https://sound-au.com/articles/
555-timer.htm
• https://sound-au.com/articles/
comparators.htm
• https://sound-au.com/articles/
fet-applications.htm
• https://sound-au.com/articles/
variac.htm
• https://sound-au.com/articles/
relays.htm
3. Download and read device data
sheets. These often contain example
circuits. You can buy the devices,
build the circuits and try them out.
For example:
• www.ti.com/lit/gpn/lm317
• www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/
lm3914.pdf
• www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/
lm555.pdf
Running a 60Hz clock
from 50Hz mains
I do volunteer repairs and check
electronic/electrical items donated to
an op shop. Someone donated a very
valuable kinetic sculpture clock but
continued on page 108
Raspberry Pi Pico BackPack
With the Raspberry Pi Pico at its core, and fitted with a 3.5inch touchscreen. It's easy-to-build and can be programmed in
BASIC, C or MicroPython. There's also room to fit a real-time
clock IC, making it a good general-purpose computer.
This kit comes with everything needed to build a Pico BackPack module, including
components for the optional microSD card, IR receiver and stereo audio output.
$80 + Postage ∎ Complete Kit (SC6075)
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/20/6075
The circuit and assembly instructions were published in the March 2022 issue: siliconchip.au/Article/15236
Australia's electronics magazine
July 2022 105
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CHIP
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07/22
YES! You can also order or renew your Silicon Chip subscription via any of these methods as well!
The best benefit, apart from the magazine? Subscribers get a 10% discount on all orders for parts.
PRE-PROGRAMMED MICROS
For a complete list, go to siliconchip.com.au/Shop/9
$10 MICROS
$15 MICROS
24LC32A-I/SN
ATmega328P
ATmega328P-AUR
ATtiny85V-10PU
ATtiny816
PIC10F202-E/OT
PIC10LF322-I/OT
PIC12F1572-I/SN
PIC12F617-I/P
Digital FX Unit (Apr21)
Si473x FM/AM/SW Digital Radio (Jul21), 110dB RF Attenuator (Jul22)
RGB Stackable LED Christmas Star (Nov20)
Shirt Pocket Audio Oscillator (Sep20)
ATtiny816 Development/Breakout Board (Jan19)
Ultrabrite LED Driver (with free TC6502P095VCT IC, Sep19)
Range Extender IR-to-UHF (Jan22)
LED Christmas Ornaments (Nov20; versions), Nano TV Pong (Aug21)
Refined Full-Wave Universal Motor Speed Controller (Apr21)
Model Railway Level Crossing (two required – $15/pair) (Jul21)
Range Extender UHF-to-IR (Jan22)
PIC12F617-I/SN
Model Railway Carriage Lights (Nov21)
PIC12F675-I/P
Motor Speed Controller (Mar18), Heater Controller (Apr18)
Useless Box IC3 (Dec18)
PIC12F675-I/SN
Tiny LED Xmas Tree (Nov19)
PIC16F1455-I/P
Digital Interface Module (Nov18), GPS Finesaver (Jun19)
Digital Lighting Controller LED Slave (Dec20)
PIC16F1455-I/SL Ol’ Timer II (Jul20), Battery Multi Logger (Feb21)
PIC16F1459-I/P
20A DC Motor Speed Controller (Jul21)
Fan Controller & Loudspeaker Protector (Feb22)
Secure Remote Mains Switch Receiver (Jul22)
PIC16F1459-I/SO Multimeter Calibrator (Jul22)
PIC16F15214-I/SN Improved SMD Test Tweezers (Apr22)
PIC16F1705-I/P
Flexible Digital Lighting Controller Slave (Oct20)
Digital Lighting Controller Translator (Dec21)
PIC16LF15323-I/SL Secure Remote Mains Switch Transmitter (Jul22)
ATSAML10E16A-AUT
PIC16F18877-I/P
PIC16F88-I/P
High-Current Battery Balancer (Mar21)
USB Cable Tester (Nov21)
UHF Repeater (May19), Six Input Audio Selector (Sep19)
Battery Charge Controller (Dec19 / Jun22)
Railway Semaphore (Apr22)
PIC32MM0256GPM028-I/SS Super Digital Sound Effects (Aug18)
PIC32MX170F256D-501P/T 44-pin Micromite Mk2 (Aug14), 4DoF Simulation Seat (Sep19)
PIC32MX170F256B-50I/SP Micromite LCD BackPack V1-V3 (Feb16 / May17 / Aug19)
GPS-Synched Frequency Reference (Nov18), Air Quality Monitor (Feb20)
RCL Box (Jun20), Digital Lighting Controller Micromite Master (Nov20)
Advanced GPS Computer (Jun21), Touchscreen Digital Preamp (Sep21)
PIC32MX170F256B-I/SO
Battery Multi Logger (Feb21), Battery Manager BackPack (Aug21)
PIC32MX270F256B-50I/SP ASCII Video Terminal (Jul14), USB M&K Adaptor (Feb19)
$20 MICROS
ATmega644PA-AU
PIC32MX470F512H-I/PT
PIC32MX470F512H-120/PT
PIC32MX470F512L-120/PT
PIC32MX795F512H-80I/PT
AM-FM DDS Signal Generator (May22)
Stereo Echo/Reverb (Feb 14), Digital Effects Unit (Oct14)
Micromite Explore 64 (Aug 16), Micromite Plus (Nov16)
Micromite Explore 100 (Sep16)
Touchscreen Audio Recorder (Jun14)
dsPIC33FJ64MC802-E/SP
dsPIC33FJ128GP306-I/PT
1.5kW Induction Motor Speed Controller (Aug13)
CLASSiC DAC (Feb13)
$25 MICROS
$30 MICROS
PIC32MZ2048EFH064-I/PT DSP Crossover/Equaliser (May19), Low-Distortion DDS (Feb20)
DIY Reflow Oven Controller (Apr20), Dual Hybrid Supply (Feb22)
KITS, SPECIALISED COMPONENTS ETC
VGA PICOMITE KIT (CAT SC6417)
(JUL 22)
MULTIMETER CALIBRATOR KIT (CAT SC6406)
(JUL 22)
110dB RF ATTENUATOR SHORT-FORM KIT (CAT SC6420)
(JUL 22)
Complete kit with everything needed to assemble the board, you just require a few
external parts such as a power supply, keyboard and monitor
$35.00
Complete kit with everything needed to assemble the board
Includes the PCB, programmed micro, OLED and all other on-board parts
BUCK-BOOST LED DRIVER KIT (CAT SC6292)
(JUN 22)
SPECTRAL SOUND MIDI SYNTH KIT (CAT SC6261)
(JUN 22)
SLOT MACHINE
(MAY 22)
500W AMPLIFIER HARD-TO-GET PARTS (CAT SC6019)
(APR 22)
IMPROVED SMD TEST TWEEZERS KIT (CAT SC5934)
(APR 22)
RASPBERRY PI PICO BACKPACK KIT (CAT SC6075)
(MAR 22)
CAPACITOR DISCHARGE WELDER
(MAR 22)
INTELLIGENT DUAL HYBRID POWER SUPPLY
(FEB 22)
Complete kit with everything needed to assemble the board
Complete kit including all programmed PICs (no case or power supply)
- Micromite Plus BackPack kit without touchscreen (Cat SC6211)
- DFPlayer Mini module (Cat SC4789)
- Set of laser-cut 3mm acrylic pieces for front panel & coin slot (Cat SC6181)
$45.00
$75.00
$80.00
$200.00
$45.00
$5.00
$10.00
All the parts marked with a red dot in the parts list, including the 12 output transistors,
driver transistors, VAS transistors, input pair (2SA1312), BAV21 & UF4003 diodes,
TL431 ICs, 75pF capacitor, E96 series resistors and 10kW 1W resistor
$200.00
Complete kit with PCBs, all onboard parts, new microcontroller and gold-plated header pins
to use for the tips. Does not include a lithium coin cell
$35.00
Complete kit, includes all parts except the optional DS3231 IC
$80.00
Parts for the Power Supply – includes the power supply PCB, IC1-3, D1, the 1W shunt and
sole SMD capacitor (Cat SC6224)
$25.00
Parts for the ESM – includes one ESM PCB, IC8, Q3 & Q4 (IRFB7434G), D9 plus the SMD
capacitors and resistors (Cat SC6225) → 8-14 sets typically needed
$20.00ea
Hard-to-get parts for the regulator module – all the ICs & regulators ◉ needed to build one
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/
module, plus the schottky diode, 10μH inductor, 4700μF 50V capacitors, 1W shunts and
SMD capacitors – does not include PCB (Cat SC6096)
$125.00
◉ does not include the LM2575T as it comes with the CPU module parts
Hard-to-get parts for the CPU module – most of the required parts, including programmed
PIC32MZ, EEPROM, LM2575T, LM317 & LD1117V regulators etc. You just need the PCB,
headers, a ferrite bead, trimpot and electrolytic capacitors (Cat SC6121)
$60.00
SMD TRAINER COMPLETE KIT (CAT SC5260)
(DEC 21)
USB CABLE TESTER KIT (CAT SC5966)
(NOV 21)
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK V3 KIT (CAT SC5082)
(AUG 19)
Includes PCB & all on-board components, except for a TQFP-64 footprint device
Short form kit with everything except case and AA cells
$20.00
$110.00
Includes PCB, programmed micros, 3.5in touchscreen LCD, UB3 lid, mounting hardware,
Mosfets for PWM backlight control and all other mandatory on-board parts
$75.00
Separate/Optional Components:
- 3.5-inch TFT LCD touchscreen (Cat SC5062)
$35.00
- DHT22 temp/humidity sensor (Cat SC4150)
$7.50
- BMP180 (Cat SC4343) OR BMP280 (Cat SC4595) temp/pressure sensor
$5.00
- BME280 temperature/pressure/humidity sensor (Cat SC4608)
$12.50
- DS3231 real-time clock SOIC-16 IC (Cat SC5103)
$7.50
- 23LC1024 1MB RAM (SOIC-8) (Cat SC5104)
$6.00
- AT25SF041 512KB flash (SOIC-8) (Cat SC5105)
$1.50
- 10µF 16V X7R through-hole capacitor (Cat SC5106)
$2.00
- MCP1700 3.3V LDO regulator (suitable for USB M&K Adapator, Feb19)
$2.00
VARIOUS MODULES & PARTS
- 70W LED panel (cool white, SC6307 | warm white, SC6308)
- 0.96in SSD1306-based yellow/blue OLED (AM-FM DDS, May22, SC6421)
- Pulse-type rotary encoder (AM-FM DDS, May22, SC5601)
- DS3231 real-time clock SOIC-16 IC (Pico BackPack, Mar22)
- DS3231MZ real-time clock SOIC-8 IC (Pico BackPack, Mar22)
- 4-pin PWM fan header (Fan Controller, Feb22)
- 64x32 pixel white 0.49in OLED (SMD Test Tweezers, Oct21)
- pair of AD8403ARZ10 (Touchscreen Digital Preamp, Sep21)
- Si4732 radio IC (Si473x FM/AM/SW Radio, Jul21)
- EA2-5NU relay (PIC Programming Helper, Jun21)
- VK2828U7G5LF GPS module (Advanced GPS Computer, Jun21)
$19.50
$10.00
$3.00
$7.50
$10.00
$1.00
$10.00
$35.00
$15.00
$3.00
$25.00
*Prices valid for month of magazine issue only. All prices in Australian dollars and include GST where applicable. # P&P prices are within Australia. Overseas? Place an order on our website for a quote.
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS & CASE PIECES
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT
GPS SPEEDO/CLOCK/VOLUME CONTROL
↳ CASE PIECES (MATTE BLACK)
RF SIGNAL GENERATOR
RASPBERRY PI SPEECH SYNTHESIS/AUDIO
BATTERY ISOLATOR CONTROL PCB
↳ MOSFET PCB (2oz)
MICROMITE LCD BACKPACK V3
CAR RADIO DIMMER ADAPTOR
PSEUDO-RANDOM NUMBER GENERATOR
4DoF SIMULATION SEAT CONTROLLER PCB
↳ HIGH-CURRENT H-BRIDGE MOTOR DRIVER
MICROMITE EXPLORE-28 (4-LAYERS)
SIX INPUT AUDIO SELECTOR MAIN PCB
↳ PUSHBUTTON PCB
ULTRABRITE LED DRIVER
HIGH RESOLUTION AUDIO MILLIVOLTMETER
PRECISION AUDIO SIGNAL AMPLIFIER
SUPER-9 FM RADIO PCB SET
↳ CASE PIECES & DIAL
TINY LED XMAS TREE (GREEN/RED/WHITE)
HIGH POWER LINEAR BENCH SUPPLY
↳ HEATSINK SPACER (BLACK)
DIGITAL PANEL METER / USB DISPLAY
↳ ACRYLIC BEZEL (BLACK)
UNIVERSAL BATTERY CHARGE CONTROLLER
BOOKSHELF SPEAKER PASSIVE CROSSOVER
↳ SUBWOOFER ACTIVE CROSSOVER
ARDUINO DCC BASE STATION
NUTUBE VALVE PREAMPLIFIER
TUNEABLE HF PREAMPLIFIER
4G REMOTE MONITORING STATION
LOW-DISTORTION DDS (SET OF 5 BOARDS)
NUTUBE GUITAR DISTORTION / OVERDRIVE PEDAL
THERMAL REGULATOR INTERFACE SHIELD
↳ PELTIER DRIVER SHIELD
DIY REFLOW OVEN CONTROLLER (SET OF 3 PCBS)
7-BAND MONO EQUALISER
↳ STEREO EQUALISER
REFERENCE SIGNAL DISTRIBUTOR
H-FIELD TRANSANALYSER
CAR ALTIMETER
RCL BOX RESISTOR BOARD
↳ CAPACITOR / INDUCTOR BOARD
ROADIES’ TEST GENERATOR SMD VERSION
↳ THROUGH-HOLE VERSION
COLOUR MAXIMITE 2 PCB (BLUE)
↳ FRONT & REAR PANELS (BLACK)
OL’ TIMER II PCB (RED, BLUE OR BLACK)
↳ ACRYLIC CASE PIECES / SPACER (BLACK)
IR REMOTE CONTROL ASSISTANT PCB (JAYCAR)
↳ ALTRONICS VERSION
USB SUPERCODEC
↳ BALANCED ATTENUATOR
SWITCHMODE 78XX REPLACEMENT
WIDEBAND DIGITAL RF POWER METER
ULTRASONIC CLEANER MAIN PCB
↳ FRONT PANEL
NIGHT KEEPER LIGHTHOUSE
SHIRT POCKET AUDIO OSCILLATOR
↳ 8-PIN ATtiny PROGRAMMING ADAPTOR
D1 MINI LCD WIFI BACKPACK
FLEXIBLE DIGITAL LIGHTING CONTROLLER SLAVE
↳ FRONT PANEL (BLACK)
LED XMAS ORNAMENTS
30 LED STACKABLE STAR
↳ RGB VERSION (BLACK)
DIGITAL LIGHTING MICROMITE MASTER
↳ CP2102 ADAPTOR
BATTERY VINTAGE RADIO POWER SUPPLY
DUAL BATTERY LIFESAVER
DIGITAL LIGHTING CONTROLLER LED SLAVE
BK1198 AM/FM/SW RADIO
MINIHEART HEARTBEAT SIMULATOR
DATE
JUN19
JUN19
JUN19
JUL19
JUL19
JUL19
AUG19
AUG19
AUG19
SEP19
SEP19
SEP19
SEP19
SEP19
SEP19
OCT19
OCT19
NOV19
NOV19
NOV19
NOV19
NOV19
NOV19
NOV19
DEC19
JAN20
JAN20
JAN20
JAN20
JAN20
FEB20
FEB20
MAR20
MAR20
MAR20
APR20
APR20
APR20
APR20
MAY20
MAY20
JUN20
JUN20
JUN20
JUN20
JUL20
JUL20
JUL20
JUL20
JUL20
JUL20
AUG20
NOV20
AUG20
AUG20
SEP20
SEP20
SEP20
SEP20
SEP20
OCT20
OCT20
OCT20
NOV20
NOV20
NOV20
NOV20
NOV20
DEC20
DEC20
DEC20
JAN21
JAN21
PCB CODE
Price
01104191
$7.50
SC4987
$10.00
04106191
$15.00
01106191
$5.00
05106191
$7.50
05106192
$10.00
07106191
$7.50
05107191
$5.00
16106191
$5.00
11109191
$7.50
11109192
$2.50
07108191
$5.00
01110191
$7.50
01110192
$5.00
16109191
$2.50
04108191
$10.00
04107191
$5.00
06109181-5 $25.00
SC5166
$25.00
16111191
$2.50
18111181
$10.00
SC5168
$5.00
18111182
$2.50
SC5167
$2.50
14107191
$10.00
01101201
$10.00
01101202
$7.50
09207181
$5.00
01112191
$10.00
06110191
$2.50
27111191
$5.00
01106192-6 $20.00
01102201
$7.50
21109181
$5.00
21109182
$5.00
01106193/5/6 $12.50
01104201
$7.50
01104202
$7.50
CSE200103 $7.50
06102201
$10.00
05105201
$5.00
04104201
$7.50
04104202
$7.50
01005201
$2.50
01005202
$5.00
07107201
$10.00
SC5500
$10.00
19104201
$5.00
SC5448
$7.50
15005201
$5.00
15005202
$5.00
01106201
$12.50
01106202
$7.50
18105201
$2.50
04106201
$5.00
04105201
$7.50
04105202
$5.00
08110201
$5.00
01110201
$2.50
01110202
$1.50
24106121
$5.00
16110202
$20.00
16110203
$20.00
16111191-9 $3.00
16109201
$12.50
16109202
$12.50
16110201
$5.00
16110204
$2.50
11111201
$7.50
11111202
$2.50
16110205
$5.00
CSE200902A $10.00
01109201
$5.00
For a complete list, go to siliconchip.com.au/Shop/8
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD TO SUIT PROJECT
I’M BUSY GO AWAY (DOOR WARNING)
BATTERY MULTI LOGGER
ELECTRONIC WIND CHIMES
ARDUINO 0-14V POWER SUPPLY SHIELD
HIGH-CURRENT BATTERY BALANCER (4-LAYERS)
MINI ISOLATED SERIAL LINK
REFINED FULL-WAVE MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
DIGITAL FX UNIT PCB (POTENTIOMETER-BASED)
↳ SWITCH-BASED
ARDUINO MIDI SHIELD
↳ 8X8 TACTILE PUSHBUTTON SWITCH MATRIX
HYBRID LAB POWER SUPPLY CONTROL PCB
↳ REGULATOR PCB
VARIAC MAINS VOLTAGE REGULATION
ADVANCED GPS COMPUTER
PIC PROGRAMMING HELPER 8-PIN PCB
↳ 8/14/20-PIN PCB
ARCADE MINI PONG
Si473x FM/AM/SW DIGITAL RADIO
20A DC MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
MODEL RAILWAY LEVEL CROSSING
COLOUR MAXIMITE 2 GEN2 (4 LAYERS)
BATTERY MANAGER SWITCH MODULE
↳ I/O EXPANDER
NANO TV PONG
LINEAR MIDI KEYBOARD (8 KEYS) + 2 JOINERS
↳ JOINER ONLY (1pc)
TOUCHSCREEN DIGITAL PREAMP
↳ RIBBON CABLE / IR ADAPTOR
2-/3-WAY ACTIVE CROSSOVER
TELE-COM INTERCOM
SMD TEST TWEEZERS (3 PCB SET)
USB CABLE TESTER MAIN PCB
↳ FRONT PANEL (GREEN)
MODEL RAILWAY CARRIAGE LIGHTS
HUMMINGBIRD AMPLIFIER
DIGITAL LIGHTING CONTROLLER TRANSLATOR
SMD TRAINER
8-LED METRONOME
10-LED METRONOME
REMOTE CONTROL RANGE EXTENDER UHF-TO-IR
↳ IR-TO-UHF
6-CHANNEL LOUDSPEAKER PROTECTOR
↳ 4-CHANNEL
FAN CONTROLLER & LOUDSPEAKER PROTECTOR
SOLID STATE TESLA COIL (SET OF 2 PCBs)
REMOTE GATE CONTROLLER
DUAL HYBRID POWER SUPPLY SET (2 REGULATORS)
↳ REGULATOR
↳ FRONT PANEL
↳ CPU
↳ LCD ADAPTOR
↳ ACRYLIC LCD BEZEL
RASPBERRY PI PICO BACKPACK
AMPLIFIER CLIPPING DETECTOR
CAPACITOR DISCHARGE WELDER POWER SUPPLY
↳ CONTROL PCB
↳ ENERGY STORAGE MODULE (ESM) PCB
500W AMPLIFIER
MODEL RAILWAY SEMAPHORE CONTROL PCB
↳ SIGNAL FLAG (RED)
AM-FM DDS SIGNAL GENERATOR
SLOT MACHINE
HIGH-POWER BUCK-BOOST LED DRIVER
ARDUINO PROGRAMMABLE LOAD
SPECTRAL SOUND MIDI SYNTHESISER
REV. UNIVERSAL BATTERY CHARGE CONTROLLER
DATE
JAN21
FEB21
FEB21
FEB21
MAR21
MAR21
APR21
APR21
APR21
APR21
APR21
MAY21
MAY21
MAY21
JUN21
JUN21
JUN21
JUN21
JUL21
JUL21
JUL21
AUG21
AUG21
AUG21
AUG21
AUG21
AUG21
SEP21
SEP21
OCT21
OCT21
OCT21
NOV21
NOV21
NOV21
DEC21
DEC21
DEC21
JAN22
JAN22
JAN22
JAN22
JAN22
JAN22
FEB22
FEB22
FEB22
FEB22
FEB22
FEB22
FEB22
FEB22
FEB22
MAR22
MAR22
MAR22
MAR22
MAR22
APR22
APR22
APR22
MAY22
MAY22
JUN22
JUN22
JUN22
JUN22
PCB CODE
16112201
11106201
23011201
18106201
14102211
24102211
10102211
01102211
01102212
23101211
23101212
18104211
18104212
10103211
05102211
24106211
24106212
08105211
CSE210301C
11006211
09108211
07108211
11104211
11104212
08105212
23101213
23101214
01103191
01103192
01109211
12110121
04106211/2
04108211
04108212
09109211
01111211
16110206
29106211
23111211
23111212
15109211
15109212
01101221
01101222
01102221
26112211/2
11009121
SC6204
18107211
18107212
01106193
01106196
SC6309
07101221
01112211
29103221
29103222
29103223
01107021
09103221
09103222
CSE211002
08105221
16103221
04105221
01106221
04107192
Price
$2.50
$5.00
$10.00
$5.00
$12.50
$2.50
$7.50
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$10.00
$10.00
$7.50
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$7.50
$35.00
$7.50
$7.50
$5.00
$15.00
$5.00
$2.50
$2.50
$5.00
$1.00
$12.50
$2.50
$15.00
$30.00
$10.00
$7.50
$5.00
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$7.50
$2.50
$2.50
$7.50
$5.00
$5.00
$7.50
$20.00
$25.00
$7.50
$2.50
$5.00
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$25.00
$2.50
$2.50
$7.50
$5.00
$5.00
$5.00
$7.50
$7.50
VGA PICOMITE
SECURE REMOTE MAINS SWITCH RECEIVER
↳ TRANSMITTER (1.0MM THICKNESS)
MULTIMETER CALIBRATOR
110dB RF ATTENUATOR
JUL22
JUL22
JUL22
JUL22
JUL22
07107221
10109211
10109212
04107221
CSE211003
$5.00
$7.50
$2.50
$5.00
$5.00
NEW PCBs
We also sell an A2 Reactance Wallchart, RTV&H DVD, Vintage Radio DVD plus various books at siliconchip.com.au/Shop/3
unfortunately, it is designed for 60Hz
mains, so it runs very slowly on 50Hz.
Changing the voltage from 230V AC to
115V AC is not a problem. Would it
be possible to make a low-power 230V
50Hz to 115V 60Hz converter for this
type of thing?
The company who made the clock
will service it and put in a 50Hz motor
(but still 115V AC) or change a gear,
but they want US$1500, including
postage! (D. M., Toorak, Vic)
● We suspect it will run fine from a
110V 60Hz pure sinewave inverter.
They’re about $50 from AliExpress
or eBay. Given the clock’s low power
demands, you should be able to power
the inverter from a 12V DC plugpack.
Its frequency accuracy may not be as
good as the mains, but the inverter
likely contains a quartz crystal, so
it should be pretty good. The clock
may need adjustment once every few
months.
We also published a 50/60Hz Turntable Driver which will work (May
2016; siliconchip.au/Article/9915).
Different servo motors
with same model code
I built two Model Railway Semaphores (April 2022; siliconchip.au/
Article/15273), but neither stops at 45°
regardless of the positions of VR1 or
VR2. They just keep on rotating either
forward or backward, depending on
the switch position. It seems like the
chip is not counting the pulses. I used
DF9GMS servos from Core Electronics
(360° micro servo). What’s going on?
(D. Y., Wyelangta, Vic)
● Looking into this, we found two different servos on the Core Electronics
website with the same model number!
The one that we linked to in the Semaphore article is the correct 180° type
that Les used: siliconchip.au/link/abf4
A different item comes up if you
search for “DF9GMS” on the Core Electronics website (and the correct one is
not listed): siliconchip.au/link/abf5
That one clearly states it is a 360°
type that is unsuitable for this project.
We think its full model number should
be DF9GMS-360, as distinct from the
DF9GMS that the design needs. Please
be sure to use the 180° servo via the
link we provided in the article.
Dual Hybrid Supply
has flashing “V”
I built the Dual Hybrid Supply
(February & March 2022; siliconchip.
au/Series/377) and, after reading the
Notes & Errata in the May issue, I put
the control board jumper in the correct
position and it started working. But I
still have one problem: on the display
set screen, the “V” is flashing along
with the decimal digits in the righthand section. Do you have a solution?
(J. A., Townsville, Qld)
● It seems that you have not set the
transformer voltage high enough in
the setup menu. The V flashes when
the output voltage is too close to the
calculated maximum output voltage.
Go into the setup menu and check
the voltage you have set; try setting
the transformer voltage higher. That
should stop the flashing.
The video you sent showing that
also indicated a residual measured
current on each output. Have you gone
through the calibration procedure? If
not, do that after adjusting the transformer voltage.
A larger bath for the
Ultrasonic Cleaner
I am building the High Power Ultrasonic Cleaner (September & October
2020; siliconchip.au/Series/350) and
have a 1/2 GN stainless steel Gastronorm, 150mm high. This has an
8L capacity which is twice the volume recommended in the article. How
much of an impact would this larger
size have on its performance?
I purchased this because I might
want to clean something large. I could
probably use the 150mm-high 1/3 GN
Gastronorm instead, but it was out of
stock when I bought the larger one.
Thanks for your advice, and keep
up the good work with the magazine.
(G. G., Knoxfield, Vic)
● Seeing you have the 8L tank, you
could try using it with the Ultrasonic
Cleaner, clamping the transducer to a
flat portion outside of the tank. Most
of the time, you could use less fluid
than the full tank capacity for better
penetration of the ultrasonic waves.
Generally, with a larger tank, more
The kinetic sculpture clock.
108
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
ultrasonic energy is required to produce a satisfactory cleaning effect. Our
Ultrasonic Cleaner cannot provide an
increased output power above the original design limit.
Ultrasonic Cleaner not
reaching full power
I built the High-Power Ultrasonic
Cleaner (September & October 2020;
siliconchip.au/Series/350) and am
having some trouble making it work.
First, I measured just over 2V at TP1
with the transformer wound as per the
article. I added about 20 turns with the
rest of the enamelled wire I had left,
and was able to get up to 3.1V.
After completely rewinding the
transformer with 40 more turns on
the secondary than specified, I am
now able to get 4.2V at TP1 for a resonance frequency of about 37.2kHz.
The piezo is glued to a stainless steel
tray of similar dimensions as yours
using epoxy resin.
Now, when I set the power to 100%
and start the device, it goes slowly
down to 10% (or between 10 and 25%)
before stabilising (LED ON lit). So it
looks like it does not find the resonance frequency.
Once I run the diagnosis and find the
maximum voltage at TP1, what should
I do? How does the cleaner memorise
this value? Do I need to validate the
result somehow? I can adjust the low/
high frequency bounds so that the pot
is set right in the middle at resonance.
I measure around 130V AC at the piezo
connector.
When I find the resonance during
the diagnostic procedure, I can hear
the water making some noise. I hope
you can give me some direction. (O.
A., Singapore)
● The resonance point is not precisely stored as it can vary over a
range of frequencies. The general resonant point region is stored, and the
frequency is varied at start-up to find
the resonance point (or off-resonance
for lower power).
When you find the frequency range
in diagnostic mode and get the maximum peak at 4.6V, try to set it to the
next lower frequency and perform the
calibration. If that is not effective, try
again with the next higher frequency
from the peak value.
If that’s unsuccessful, try rerunning
the diagnostics and sweeping the frequencies to find the maximum current
siliconchip.com.au
by measuring the voltage at TP1. If
this voltage goes over the 4.8V overload point, reduce the number of secondary turns on the transformer. The
turns need to be so that current overload isn’t reached at resonance. This
is the only way to find the transducer
resonance frequency correctly.
The cleaner should then run correctly, and you can then achieve the
ultimate power by increasing or reducing the transformer’s secondary windings by only a few turns.
Switching between
battery & mains supply
Have you published a circuit that
can switch between a battery power
source and a mains-based power supply quickly without interruption? I
had in mind a 12V DC battery supply
that might go dead, so it would need a
mains supply to come online immediately. (F. C., Maroubra, NSW)
● We haven’t published exactly what
you are after, although the DIY UPS
design in the May-July 2018 issues
(siliconchip.au/Series/323) is somewhat similar. Also see our article on
battery backup power supplies in the
January 2020 issue (“What do to before
the lights go out...”, siliconchip.au/
Article/12215).
We are not sure how much current
you require. We have published several battery protectors that disconnect
a battery from a load when the battery
discharges. These include including
the Dual Battery Lifesaver from the
December 2020 issue (siliconchip.
au/Article/14673); and the LifeSaver
from September 2013 (siliconchip.au/
Article/4360). If the battery is switched
off, a mains supply could be switched
in to take over.
These projects can handle a load of
about 10A. The mains supply could
be switched in using a part of the circuit in the Protector to drive a relay
or relay switcher like the DC Relay
Switch (December 2006; siliconchip.
au/Article/2813).
You may need to add a transistor driven by the Protector circuit
to power the relay coil, or use a solid-state relay that does not require
much drive current (Jaycar SY4093).
Another (probably simpler) way of
doing this is to permanently connect
a mains charger to the battery to prevent it from discharging when used.
That way, it shouldn’t go dead.
Australia's electronics magazine
Remote control for
electric fence
I am wondering about the practicality of signalling via the hot wire
of an electric fence to toggle it on and
off as required. Something akin to
the switching technology power companies use to switch on/off off-peak
power etc. I am often a kilometre or
so from the electric fence generator,
and travelling back and forth is often
impractical.
I still have an electric fence tester
built back in the ETI days, and it works
well. I have only replaced the battery
twice in at least 20 years, so no complaints on that!
The ideal device I am looking for
would encompass a tester and signal sender in a handheld unit, with
a receiver at the fence energiser to
switch the mains power on/off.
This way, I can test and fix a fence
remotely without receiving the usual
jolt. Currently, it is a two-person job
via a mobile phone, and often the
person and the network may not be
available simultaneously. (C. G., Yakamia, WA)
● You could switch an electric fence
on and off remotely via a 4G mobile
network without needing a helper
using our 4G Remote Monitoring
Station (February 2020; siliconchip.
au/Article/12335) together with the
Opto-Isolated Mains Relay (October
2018; siliconchip.au/Article/11267).
That would let you switch the electric fence on and off with SMSes, with
acknowledgement messages being
returned. It would also allow you to
query it about whether the fence is on
at any particular time.
The last electric fence tester project
published in Silicon Chip was in May
1999 (siliconchip.au/Article/4559). It
includes three designs, each of which
simply flashes a lamp to indicate that
the fence is working. The second version also indicates the voltage.
Alternative Mosfets for
DC Speed Controller
I am trying to build the High Power
DC Motor Speed Control (January
& February 2017; siliconchip.au/
Series/309). The IPP023N10N5AKSA1
Mosfets were out of stock with a delivery date in the not too distant future.
However, after I ordered them, that
date came and went, and now the
July 2022 109
supplier says they “will advise” a
delivery date.
I suspect that means I will not be getting them any time soon, if ever. I did
a bit of searching and found that the
FDP2D3N10C is available. I think it is
a reasonable substitute with the same
package and voltage rating, similar
on-resistance, similar threshold voltage, similar switching times, slightly
lower gate charge, higher current rating and sufficient power rating (214W
vs 375W in the original).
Can I make that substitution? (E. Z.,
Turramurra, NSW)
● Yes, those Mosfets would be fine
in the DC Speed Controller. The
power rating is not so critical as we
are switching them on and off rather
than using them in linear mode, where
power dissipation would be high. So
the 214W rating is more than sufficient.
Tweaking Automotive
Sensor Modifier range
I have just finished building the
Automotive Sensor Modifier project
(December 2016; siliconchip.com.au/
Article/10451), but I can’t figure out
the value of R1 to use.
My input signal will be from a MAP
(manifold absolute pressure) sensor
that delivers 1.13V with zero boost
and 2.7V up to 20PSI. I only need to
alter about 50 sites. Please help. (G.
C., Beaudesert, Qld)
● If you want to be able to adjust over
the entire range (eg, change an input
of 1.13V to an output of up to 2.7V),
that’s a maximum 1.57V change.
When R1 is 15kW, you can adjust by
1.3V (not enough), while when it is
24kW, you can adjust up to 2V (too
much, although that will only mean
there are wider adjustment steps than
desired).
A resistance between 15kW and
24kW will provide a better resolution while still providing sufficient
range. With R1 at 18kW, that would
give a 1.53V range, which should be
adequate, while 20kW would give a
1.68V range.
leakage measurements. There needs
to be an adjustment to three-phase
readings because the three phases are
120° out of phase. Without accounting for that, the leakage reading will
be higher.
Additionally, if any of the line phase
currents differ, there will be a resulting ‘leakage’ reading simply due to
the imbalance of the phases. For a
three-phase Y connection, assuming
identical voltages in each phase, pure
sinewaves and 120° phase differences,
the leakage reading would need to be
divided by √3 (~1.732) for the equivalent single-phase leakage.
Testing three-phase
gear for Earth leakage
Lower value coil for
Multi-Spark CDI?
Having successfully built and tested
your Appliance Earth Leakage Tester
project (May 2015 issue; siliconchip.
au/Article/8553) with single-phase
devices, I tried it with three-phase. I
did this simply by feeding the three
live conductors and the Neutral conductor through the current transformer.
It reads significantly higher than
a comparable calibrated meter that I
usually use when measuring a threephase drill press. Are three-phase
Earth leakage measurement with this
circuit feasible? If so, why did I get a
higher-than-normal reading? (B. T.,
New Zealand)
● The Appliance Earth Leakage Tester was only intended for single-phase
Does the coil for the Multi-Spark
Capacitor Discharge Ignition system
project (December 2014 & January
2015; siliconchip.com.au/Series/279)
need to be a 4W type? Those coils are
mostly for single-cylinder applications such as motorcycles, while my
application is a V8 engine. Would a
1.5-2W coil work? (P. H., St Pierre sur
Orthe, France)
● The main thing is to limit maximum
current. The dwell needs to be limited
to prevent a high saturation current
(highest when the coil is charged).
The lower the coil impedance, generally, the shorter the maximum dwell.
A 1.5-2W coil will be OK if this is set
correctly.
continued on page 112
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● Runs from a single lithium coin cell, ~five years of standby life
● Can measure components in-circuit under some circumstances
110
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Jaycar.........................IFC,11,39-40,
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LD Electronics........................... 111
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112
Where to get inductors
for Battery Zapper
I want to build the Lead-Acid Battery Zapper & Desulphator Mk.3 (July
2009; siliconchip.au/Article/1500),
but both kits have been discontinued,
and the specified 220μH and 1mH aircored inductors are no longer available from Jaycar. Do you know where
I can get them?
● You have a few options. Air-cored
inductors are often used for crossovers,
and ‘crossover inductors’ are available
from other sources.
The Jaycar inductors used 20AWG
wire (0.8mm diameter). We found an
Australian website called Speakerbug with 220μH and 1mH air-cored
inductors at reasonable prices, wound
with either 18AWG or 21AWG wire.
18AWG would be preferable, but
either should work; see: siliconchip.
au/link/abex
Another option would be to wind
your own. There are online calculators that tell you how many turns of
what diameter wire on what sized
former are needed to make a specific
inductance value. If you have an LC
meter, you can also keep winding
until you reach the desired inductance value.
You might even find that reels of
enamelled copper wire have close to
the correct inductance by just using the
whole reel or unwinding a part of it.
We used that approach in the Easyto-build Bookshelf Speaker System
(January-March 2020; siliconchip.au/
Series/341), which used reels of ECW
as 390μH and 900μH inductors.
900μH is probably close enough to
1mH for the Battery Zapper, and for
the 220μH inductor, you could use
the same reels of ECW that measured
390μH for the Bookshelf Speakers but
MOS Air Quality Sensors, June 2022: in the Useful Links box, the secondlast link should be https://fs.keyestudio.com/KS0457
Railway Semaphore Signal, April 2022: be aware that some vendors
are selling DF9GMS-360 360° servos under the same model code as the
DF9GMS 180° servos specified for this project. The 360° servo motors will
not work. You need to use a 180° servo.
High Power DC Motor Speed Control, January & February 2017: the
IPP023N10N5AKSA1 Mosfets specified are currently unobtainable.
Constructors can substitute the FDP2D3N10C, which is available at the
time of writing.
Next Issue: the August 2022 issue is due on sale in newsagents by
Thursday, July 28th. Expect postal delivery of subscription copies in
Australia between July 27th and August 12th.
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
unwind some turns (probably about
1/3 of them) to get a value closer to
220μH.
MC34063 regulator
chips failing
I have just built the Pocket TENS
Unit (January 2006; siliconchip.au/
Article/2532), and I have had problems with the repeated failure of the
MC34063 chip. When setting the
inverter output voltage, the IC fails. I
can get the output close to 60V before
that happens.
I got the MC34063s from eBay. As
for the toroidal transformer, I could
not find the original Neosid core, so I
used another of unknown origin but
with the same physical dimensions.
Do you have any ideas? (M. A., Wurtulla, Qld)
● The MC34063 is generally very reliable, but it is a ubiquitous chip, and
we suspect there are plenty of clones
on the market, some of which might be
dodgy. We suggest trying an MC34063
from Jaycar (Cat ZK8837) or Altronics
(Cat Z2750). For the ferrite core, use
Jaycar Cat LO1234. Those combinations seem to be reliable.
High voltage track
clearances
I designed a new PCB for the Multi
Spark CDI System (September 1997;
siliconchip.au/Article/4837) with a
full ground plane and am having some
problems.
Would a ground plane cause any
problems? I set the track clearance at
0.305mm. Do you think that’s enough?
(J. M., New Haven, USA)
● For tracks with up to 300V between
them, more clearance would be preferable. Arc-over would be likely at
0.305mm, especially without a solder mask layer. The IPC-2221 standards require 1.25mm or more (see
www.smps.us/pcbtracespacing.html).
Clearance may not be your only problem, though, and maybe photos of the
PCB could help us see where problems
might lie.
Note that we published a CDI
design much more recently (December 2014 & January 2015; siliconchip.
au/Series/279), and we can supply
both the PCB and hard-to-get parts for
that project. These are available from
our website at: siliconchip.au/Shop/?
article=8120
SC
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