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JANUARY 2025
ISSN 1030-2662
01
9 771030 266001
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Compact HiFi
Part 2
headphone
Amplifier
🔊
🔊
🔊
1W into 16Ω
3.5mm & 6.5mm headphone jack
5MHz 40A
Current Probe
Class-AB operating mode
9-12V AC plugpack
Data Centres, Servers
and Cloud Computing
Battery-Powered
Monarch AA5 Radio
Model Train
www.jaycar.com.au
Contents
Vol.38, No.01
January 2025
12 Data Centres & Cloud Computing
Whenever you watch a video, send an email, buy a product online etc you
are using a data centre. So what makes them so important to how the
internet is run, and where does the ‘cloud’ fit into it all?
By Dr David Maddison, VK3DSM
Computer technology
Compact HiFi
headphone Amplifier
42 Precision Electronics, Part 3
This series covers the basics of precision electronics design. Building
on from last month, we move our shunt to the high side and use an
instrumentation amplifier to measure the voltage across it.
By Andrew Levido
Electronic design
80 TCS230 Colour Sensor
This little module senses the colour of any object or light source using an
array of 64 photodiodes. It can be controlled via most microcontrollers like
an Arduino or Micromite.
By Jim Rowe
Using electronic modules
84 Extracting Data from Micros
Older microcontrollers that store code internally are a problem when
repairing old equipment. We describe a method we developed to extract
ROM (read-only memory) data from an older microcontroller.
By Dr Hugo Holden
Data preservation
27 Digital Capacitance Meter
This Meter measures capacitors from 10pF to 10,000μF and it does it using
only through-hole components. It’s portable too, fitting into a UB1 case and
powered via a single 9V battery.
By Stephen Denholm
Test equipment project
33 Compact HiFi Headphone Amp
Our new Headphone Amplifier is easy to build, fairly priced and delivers up
to 0.9W into 8Ω, 1W into 16Ω and 140mW into 600Ω. In this final part, we go
over the PCB design, construction, testing and then start using it.
Part 2 by Nicholas Vinen
Audio project
60 40A Current Probe
Build your own current probe for a fraction of the cost of a commercial unit.
Our 5MHz Current Probe is bi-directional, has an output scaling of 0.1V/A, a
maximum current of 40A (35A continuous) and ~30 hours of battery life.
By Andrew Levido
Test equipment project
68 Battery-Powered Model Train
By modifying your model train layouts to be battery-powered, you eliminate
the need to keep the tracks clean. This is because it doesn’t need to draw
power from the tracks that might be dirty or oxidised.
By Les Kerr
Model railway project
Part 2: Page 33
Precision Electronics
Part 3 – Page 42
Page 60
5MHz 40A
Current probe
2
Editorial Viewpoint
4
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1. Current indicator for USB power banks
1. LED voltmeter & ammeter
2. LED handbag light
1. Gesture-controlled USB lamp
2. BIG LED clock
Monarch “All-American Five” radio
by Ian Batty
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2
Silicon Chip
Editorial Viewpoint
As expected, the 3G shutdown was
messy
Australia is one of the first countries to shut down
both 2G and 3G mobile services – others have not
done it (yet) for good reasons. So many devices rely
on the existence of either 2G or 3G. Most countries
that have shut down 3G have at least kept 2G (GSM)
as a backup.
The few exceptions are Singapore (since the end
of 2021) and most carriers in the USA no longer have 2G or 3G networks.
Virtually all other countries retain one or the other for now. Some have
discussed shutting them down in future but most don’t have a specific date
yet. One exception is Japan, where major carriers plan to end 3G service by
March 2026.
Another reason to keep one or the other is that 4G coverage is generally not
as good in remote areas, so it’s good to have 2G/3G to fall back on if you’re in
an area with poor 4G coverage – something that would seem to be smart in a
large country like Australia, with people living in remote areas. However, I
guess our politicians are smarter than their peers overseas and can get away
with doing this without consequences. (Yes, I’m being sarcastic.)
That is bad enough, but it gets worse. 4G is not really a proper standard and
many phones implement it (VoLTE) differently. That means that some 4G/5G
phones fall back on 3G to make emergency calls. Without a 3G network, they
are therefore unable to call 000.
It gets worse again. The government’s “solution” to this is to force all the
wireless carriers to block all phones from their network if they can’t be 100%
sure they are able to call 000 without the 3G network. This has resulted in
many phones being blocked that do support 4G and can call 000 simply
because it’s so difficult to create a comprehensive list of all supported devices.
Some of these blocked devices are relatively new 5G smartphones! The
word ‘schemozzle’ is the most appropriate way to describe this situation.
Over half a million active devices have been blocked from our networks
due to this debacle – most of which are now basically e-waste. Possibly in
excess of a million devices are affected, and that’s ignoring those that have
already been replaced due to the then-impending 3G shutdown.
Discarding millions of otherwise functional devices can’t be good for the
environment (something our government pretends to care about). It’s also a
big waste of money. Some of these devices cost upwards of a thousand dollars
and were perfectly functional before they were made redundant. Some, like
the 3G devices integrated into some vehicles, have no obvious upgrade path.
A cynical person would say that the telcos must have lobbied for this
situation because it now means that they essentially have a monopoly on
selling mobile devices in Australia. After all, not only can they block ‘grey
market’ phones, they are legally required to do so.
Remember when the NBN came along and they got rid of regular telephone
lines, forcing many people to switch to 3G for services like back-to-base
house alarms, asset tracking and so on? That was before the advent of 4G,
so people who were forced to replace those devices about 10 years ago are
being (or have been) forced to replace them yet again.
Who knows how long those replacement devices will last? Will the 4G
network be switched off in the near future, forcing us to replace them all
again? I wouldn’t rule it out.
You can read more about this debacle at siliconchip.au/link/ac2r
by Nicholas Vinen
Cover background image: https://unsplash.com/photos/purple-and-blue-light-digital-wallpaper-8bghKxNU1j0
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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Australia's electronics magazine
January 2025 3
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Geoffrey Orr, Ryde, NSW.
50 years of Stereo FM radio in Australia
2024 is the 50th anniversary of Australian stereo FM
broadcasting. A half-century ago, on the 15th of December 1974, the first FM station of this new radio service,
2MBS-FM, commenced broadcasting from makeshift studios in Alexander Street, Crows Nest, NSW. It has remained
continually on air since then.
It seems fitting that Silicon Chip should mention this
50th Anniversary of FM and perhaps provide its readers
with some background information. The history of how
Australia eventually managed to get FM broadcasting after
most of the world had had the service for decades is long,
colourful and troubled.
It is really quite an interesting story, and a rather long
one at that—but unfortunately much of that history remains
scant and poorly documented in official archives. Those
records provide precious little information about the key
personalities involved.
Much of the history covers how the government badly
bungled spectrum management by putting TV channels 3,
4 and 5 in the international 88-108MHz FM band. I have
first-hand knowledge of how we set the stage for the government to unwind this almighty stuff-up.
Our private discussions with Senator (Diamond Jim)
McClelland got the ball rolling for the then (Whitlam)
Government to establish the FM Royal Commission (the
McLean Commission).
The commencement of 2MBS-FM represents a major
milestone in Australian broadcasting history. It was the
first station to broadcast continuously in stereo FM, but it
also had to develop all of its original stereo encoding and
transmitting equipment (including a 10kW transmitter)
from scratch due to its impoverished beginnings, and it
did so with volunteer labour.
Those volunteers gave up many hundreds of hours of
their spare time. It was a major electronics project undertaken by electronics and classical music enthusiasts,
many of whom had little or no experience of electronics.
2MBS-FM was also the first new station in Sydney in about
40 years, and that hiatus itself is quite a story.
In the days before the internet we, a bunch of amateurs
(some hams, others in electronics and allied fields), had
to start from scratch with only the specifications of the
FM pilot-tone system to hand and develop a 20/25W stereo FM exciter from the ground up. It had to pass the high
standards of the Australian Broadcasting Control Board
(ABCB) with its rigorous testing procedures.
It turned out that our efforts were quite spectacularly
successful. It must be remembered that in those days, we
had very little information about the technical intricacies
of stereo FM. In effect, we were in a clean-room scenario
Left-to-right: Sir Francis McLean (deceased), FM Royal Commissioner, ex
BBC head of engineering; Grahame Wilson (yours truly) and Max Benyon.
Photo taken whilst Sir Francis was inspecting the construction of our
high-power bespoke, home-brew transmitter.
4
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
The West Street,
North Sydney
Post Office
tower originally
constructed
for the
experimental
monophonic FM
service in the
late 1940s. In
the early days,
it became the
site for our own
FM antenna. It
has since been
demolished.
siliconchip.com.au
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and had to develop most of our circuitry from scratch.
This was a blessing in disguise, as our first stereo FM
exciter turned out to have quite remarkable performance;
it was much better than most commercial designs on the
market. Back then, it’s likely we had the best performing FM
exciter in the world. That first stereo FM exciter still exists!
To my knowledge, I am one of only two surviving FM
campaigners who put the technical case for FM to the government; the other is Max Benyon. He was a very important
player in the FM story. What happened behind the scene
that clinched the deal, so to speak, has never been documented publicly.
We ultimately achieved political success and solved
some quite formidable technical problems to get on air.
Grahame Wilson, Glebe, NSW.
Modifying single-phase motors to work with a VSD
In your “Single-Phase Induction Motors” panel on page
31 of the November 2024 issue, you state that motors with
centrifugal start switches are not suitable for use with the
Mk2 Variable Speed Drive design.
I submitted a Circuit Notebook entry that was published
in the February 2015 issue (siliconchip.au/Article/8303),
which demonstrated that it is possible to use these motors
on the Mk1 VSD. That is done by feeding the start winding
from the third phase via the centrifugal switch. This phaseshifted drive provided excellent initial starting torque.
Using this technique, I was able to run a pool pump
at about 40% of its full speed power without significant
impact on filtering efficiency. I think the pump was probably overpowered for the required duty, and the automatic
pool cleaner ran better at the reduced power.
I did not have to run my pump any longer each day –
so I saved about 60% of the running costs. The pump also
ran much, much cooler. My experience was that the pump
would start reliably and ramp up and down very smoothly
through the (large hysteresis) switching point under load,
providing the full range of available ramp-rates.
As a note of caution, I initially ran the pump at a low
speed with a slow ramp-rate on the bench to ensure the
pump ran in the correct direction. An abrupt start in the
wrong direction could unscrew the impellor, with nasty
consequences!
Another note: fans and centrifugal water pumps require
very little torque to run at low speeds, so with low ramprate speed increases, the inertia torque can also be easily
limited. I had no problems at all running my pump below
the centrifugal switch-off speed for extended periods, as
the supplied voltage is reduced at these low speeds, so
the current is quite modest (little heating of the windings).
However, I think more caution would be needed with
high starting torque devices, like compressors, conveyor
belts etc, to avoid extended low-speed, high-torque operation.
I have been running my Mk1 VSD-controlled pool pump
twice a day for about nine years, only stopped when we
decommissioned the pool recently for other reasons. The
pump still runs.
Now I have a question. I have a 3.3kW three-phase (440V)
motor that I would like to control at reduced voltage. It lacks
the ability to change from star to delta configuration. Would
it likely run at about 1.5kW with the reduced 230V supply?
Ian Thompson, Duncraig, WA.
6
Silicon Chip
Andrew Levido comments: thanks for the email. You are
obviously correct that it is possible to run a capacitor-start
single-phase motor from the VSDs I have described in
Silicon Chip. You can do it using the third phase as you
describe, or by ramping the speed up above the switch
opening RPM, then keeping it above the switch closing
RPM thereafter.
You can also replace the centrifugal switch with a timer
that switches the start winding and capacitor out of circuit
once the rotor is started.
However, none of these methods is suitable for someone with limited experience and understanding. There are
so many variations of motors and loads out there that we
decided it was best to just say it should not be done. We
figured that any sufficiently advanced user like you will
know how to do it safely and accept the risks – some of
which you point out.
As for running a 440V 3.3kW motor on 230V, I honestly
have no idea what shaft power you could expect. I’m sure
the motor would run, but I couldn’t vouch for the current
it would draw or the torque it would produce. The load’s
torque-speed characteristic will also impact the operating point.
Mains wiring colours worldwide
It has been a long time since power cables that plug into
Australian power points used red for Active, black for Neutral and green for Earth. The problem with this combination
is that 8% of Australian males and 0.5% females are colour
blind, virtually all having red/green blindness. So the likelihood of them wiring the Active to a metal case is high.
This was the case before Residual Current Device breakers (RCDs) were common. They will switch off the supply
when someone touches such a case (although that doesn’t
guarantee no harm can occur!). The latest standard used by
Australia is IEC60227 – 2024 from the International Electrotechnical Commission, part of the United Nation Standards.
To overcome the problem of colour blindness, Active
was changed to brown because it appears darker than the
green used for Earth and the light blue used for Neutral.
Virtually all colour-blind people can detect its hue (brown)
compared to other hues.
To make it unmistakable, the Earth is green with a yellow stripe. The yellow stripe is easily seen in low light.
The Earth is most important because it must be correctly
wired to provide a safety shield.
In the Americas, green/yellow or green only are acceptable and Neutral is white. They usually have a two-phase
240V supply where 120V can be tapped between either the
black and white or red and white wires. For higher power
devices, 240V is available between the red and black wires.
Our 400V, 50Hz three-phase supply is used in high-power
and commercial/industrial applications. 60Hz supply countries also have 480V three-phase but it is only available to
commercial and industrial customers.
Alan Hughes, Hamersley, WA.
Old electrical wiring standards
I was recently reminded about the old electrical wiring
standard here in Australia. Somewhere around 50 years
ago when I lived in NSW, my neighbour’s son came over
and asked me if I could help his father with an electrical
problem. The light switch near their front door had broken,
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
“Beware! The Loop”, a book by Jim Sinclair
on the what-if time travel was possible
Tom Marsden, aka “Time Warp Tommy”, is asked to investigate
the circumstances surrounding the disappearance of a military
scientist experimenting with time travel in a small country in
the middle of Asia. What he finds will shock you!
Schadenfreude over H. G. Palmer
With the help of his highly intelligent daughter Emily, what
they discover will lead them into a web of drama and intrigue,
danger and distrust. When the co-workers are charged with
their superior’s murder, Time Warp Tommy must explain the
science to the judges in order to save their lives. But time is
running out.
Regarding the letter in the October 2024 issue from Ian
Robertson about Stromberg-Carlson and H. G. Palmer’s part
in their demise, I was pleased to hear that karma finally
got Palmer and that he spent some time as a guest of H. M.
My wife was arrested for non-payment of a non-existent
debt to H. G. Palmer back in the late 1960s. She was taken
to the police station and fingerprinted. Despite her protests
that she had never bought anything from the company, she
had to appear in court. They finally realised that she could
not have been the person they wanted as she was far too
young, and she was released.
Of course, there was no apology, and the police record
remains. She should have sued him, but she was so relieved
to have it finished, she just let it go. She will be very pleased
to hear that he got his comeuppance!
David Coggins, Beachmere, Qld.
Beware! The Loop has many twists and turns, facts and figures
that inspires your imagination.
Unexpected failure in ignition system
Time Warp Tommy is asked to explain how the world’s greatest
expert on time travel has built a time machine, climbed into it
and disappeared into a grey haze. With only two co-workers
left behind and a pile of hand-written notes and diagrams,
Time Warp Tommy must devise a way in which the experiment
can be safely ended.
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8
and they had tried to replace it, but they ran into all sorts
of problems.
The light switch wiring consisted of three twin red &
black cables. They had connected all the red wires together
and all the black wires together; who knows how they had
connected the switch. Of course, as soon as they switched
the power back on, it blew the fuse. (There were no circuit breakers or ‘safety switches’ back in those days). They
didn’t know what to do, so they asked for my help.
The old standard for light wiring was twin red & black
cable with no Earth wire. Power cables had a bare Earth
wire. For light switches, black was used as the switch wire
– very dangerous! I arrived on the scene and the three cables
had been disconnected and were easily accessible. I asked
for a light globe and said to switch the power back on.
I connected the globe across all three cables and determined which was the live cable. Then I connected the
other two cables in turn and asked them if the next light in
the circuit was working. This identified the wiring to the
other lights, meaning that the other cable was the switch
wire going to the light.
I got them to switch the power off again and I connected
the new switch. With the power back on, everything worked
as expected.
Although this old wiring standard left a lot to be desired,
at least it was nowhere near as dangerous as the cotton-
covered rubber-insulated wiring of earlier eras. Even power
cables back then used rubber insulation; I recently found
such a cable when I was sorting out items that had been
in storage for decades.
After saving the plug and socket, I discarded the cable
without a second thought. No way I would even think of
using such a dangerous cable.
Bruce Pierson, Dundathu, Qld.
Silicon Chip
E-ISBN 9780645945669
Around eight years ago, you provided me with a lot of
assistance in resolving a few teething issues in configuring my Programmable Ignition module (March-May 2007;
siliconchip.au/Series/56) for use with a Piranha optical
trigger in my Rover P5 V8 coupe.
David Parker, with whom I correspond on occasion and
who also uses your programmable module on his MGB car,
provided me with your email address as I wanted to offer
a bit of feedback.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
I have been running the module in my dual-fuel (LPG &
petrol) Rover P5 Coupe reliably now for eight years. I’ve
also written quite a few ignition maps for both fuel options.
These changes have slowly improved the performance with
each fuel type as I learn how the engine responds to the
various changes made.
Recently, on a three-day Car Club run returning home, the
engine started to act erratically. To cut a long story short, it
was misfiring badly. The electronic tacho’s needle would
swing violently from whatever RPM the engine was initially running at and back or close to zero RPM.
I managed to nurse the car to within 12-15km of home
before the engine couldn’t sustain running any longer. An
RACV flatbed truck ferried the Rover home from that point.
The next day, I removed the module to investigate. I
emailed David, who suggested a few possible reasons the
module could have failed. David felt that it was probably
due to a failed capacitor. I thought the microprocessor chip
may have been corrupted in some way.
As I had most of the parts in a spare kit, I could swap
the chip for a fresh one and also look for evidence of a
failed capacitor. David outlined what I should look for in
a failed capacitor.
In the end, I changed two of the larger capacitors and
the chip with no effect. Then I looked at the crystal. It sits
there on its own on the circuit board (a 20MHz oscillator).
Perhaps the erratic behaviour of the electronic tacho was
telling me something. As I had a spare crystal, I thought I’d
change it. Bingo; that was the component that had failed.
It was quite a surprise to David when I told him that
the crystal was the component that failed in the module!
He said that they are generally very reliable and not prone
to failing. The next day I ordered a few spares as they are
only 67¢ each.
What are your views regarding the crystal failing? I’d be
interested in any feedback.
Vincent Stok, East Bentleigh, Vic.
Comment: Crystals are generally very reliable. The crystal may have had an internal connection break or become
high-impedance due to the constant vibration from the
engine and bumps on the road. Then again, even though
crystals are mostly reliable, that doesn’t mean they never
fail. You might have just been unlucky.
You may wish to mount the Programmable Ignition system on rubber mounts to reduce the amount of vibration
reaching it. That should increase its overall reliability.
AC Bench Supply desired
I was recently working on repairing some 1.8m-tall
Christmas drummer men. They contained LED lights and
some of them also had motors to drive mechanical arms
to hit the drum.
The power supplies had been lost, and the connectors
could not be found anywhere. Some of the internals were
extremely difficult to access, and when we did, it looked
like most of the internal circuitry had been burnt out. There
were no circuit diagrams, so we had to reverse-engineer
what everything was doing and what voltages it needed
to run at.
From this, we determined that the original power supplies were AC plugpacks, which are now no longer as common as they used to be (and much more expensive than
the ubiquitous DC switch mode plugpacks now available).
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
January 2025 9
We had bench DC power supplies with voltage and current limiting; these are commonly available, and Silicon
Chip has published such designs. However, we had no similar device for a variable AC power supply. Searching on
the internet, I could not find anything that would do that
job. This would be very useful for all sorts of devices with
small AC motors.
My request is for a project design for a bench AC variable power supply with current limiting, to fulfil a similar
role to the commonly available DC bench power supplies.
It could use a PIC-based waveform generator, perhaps just
with sine, square and triangular wave forms at a small range
of frequencies; perhaps 30Hz, 50Hz, 100Hz and 1kHz (50Hz
being the most significant). I seem to remember that you
already have something that might meet this requirement.
That would then feed into a modified audio amplifier
(perhaps Class-D), perhaps with a 50W to 100W output
(whatever meets the price/performance curve). Again, you
have already published designs for this, although the low
frequency response may need to be tweaked. It would need
appropriate variable output voltage and variable current
limiting and metering.
Or, is there a much simpler solution that I have not
thought of?
Andrew Hannam, Cornubia, Qld.
Comment: all you really need to do is plug an AC plugpack into a variac with a multimeter to measure the current. AC plugpacks are still easily obtainable. For example,
Altronics has 10 different models ranging from 9V 1.33A
(M9233) to 24V 3A (M6014). Jaycar also have a few, like
MP3026 (12V 1A), MP3032 (24V 1A) and MP3045 (24V
6.25A).
We have previously published a design that can synthesise an AC waveform, although for a different purpose: the
May 2016 Precision 230V/115V 50/60Hz Turntable Driver
(siliconchip.au/Article/9930). It could be used as the basis
of an AC ‘bench supply’, but it is a lot more complex than
the variac approach.
Audio amplifiers are not really suitable for driving general loads. For a start, they are usually designed to handle
a narrow range of load impedances and won’t like driving
highly capacitive or inductive loads.
More on the nuclear power debate
I notice that in his October 2024 letter in Mailbag, Phil
Denniss is less optimistic than Kelvin Jones (July 2024)
that nuclear power might be good for Australia. I tried to
become better informed on the subject, but it wasn’t easy.
Nuclear power is controversial partly because it isn’t
one singular technology; it is a whole zoo of technologies,
illustrating the many ways to ‘skin a cat’. A group that
calls itself the World Nuclear Association has tried to be
helpful by defining generations of technologies, a bit like
2G/3G/4G/5G phones.
Their help leads to names for the technologies like generation I, II, III, IV etc, but even this naming provides a
minefield of opportunities for pedants to quibble.
Almost all the currently working power stations are from
generation II, but most new power stations will probably
be from generation III. That doesn’t help much. Even this
subset describes many technologies, and the differences
between them are huge.
Amusingly, or maybe tormentingly, the editorial in the
10
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
October issue is very prescient. I waded through tables and
tables of beeping TLAs (three-letter acronyms). Some were
reasonably obvious: a BWR is a boiling water reactor, while
a PWR is a pressurised water reactor.
It was a bit alarming to discover that the “S” in some
acronyms means sodium, and the “L” means lead, given
that they are abbreviated Na and Pb in the periodic table,
respectively.
Oh, goodie! Several tonnes of red-hot liquid metals
sploshing about. Weirdly, some protagonists hope that
these will make the reactors safer.
Part of the reason that some antagonists warn that construction might take decades is that it will take ages to do
the paperwork to select a suitable contractor. The selection of the technology risks being more like a guess than
a sound technical decision. I enjoy the irony that the big
problems will be administrative, not technical.
There is a lot of enthusiasm for small modular reactors
(SMRs). Some of the definitions of these terms remind me of
the average-sized boy who wanted to be the biggest midget
in the world. The list of types that someone would like to
sell us is another thesaurus of TLAs, except that some of
them need four and five letters.
About two SMRs have been built, but many are only in
various design stages, including ‘cancelled’.
Keith Anderson, Kingston, Tas.
Comment: as you rightly say, a lot of the difficulties with
generating electricity using nuclear fission are administrative (or political) rather than technical.
One nuclear engineer had a good point about liquid-metal
cooled reactor designs. While they have certain technical
advantages, he asks, how do you inspect their internals,
especially during operation? At least water is mostly seethrough!
More on the pitfalls of high-impedance meters
I want to comment on the entry in the November 2024
Serviceman’s Log column entitled “Impediment to Learning”. The letter mentions the downsides of using high-
impedance meters in the electrical industry. As an electrical apprentice in the late 1970s, I too used an Avo meter
with relatively low impedance for all testing in and around
a hydroelectric power plant.
In later years, as a tradesman training apprentices, I
found that the advent of high-impedance digital meters
caused all sorts of inductive ‘ghost’ voltages to appear on
what should have been isolated circuits; a constant source
of confusion for some.
The solution I used was a twin extension terminal set
that plugged directly into the terminals of the high impedance meter, bridged by two parallel 1MW resistors to reduce
the test impedance to around 500kW. The meter leads then
piggybacked into the extension terminals.
This eliminated the unwanted induced voltages so that
the isolated circuits could be confidently tested and worked
upon, and was a great learning aid for those in training. I
still carry the so-called “induction pack” around with the
meter today, in case it is ever needed.
Terry Ives, Penguin, Tas.
Comment: the resistors would need to be insulated (and
for a CATIII rating, insulated to 1000V) Also they should
SC
be rated for the applied test voltage.
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January 2025 11
Last month we covered the
invisible backbone of the
internet, undersea
cables. This month
we write
about another
important
piece of mostly
invisible internet
infrastructure: data
centres. Like cables,
they are rarely seen
and little is known
of them by the general
public.
By Dr David Maddison
VK3DSM
Data Centres,
Servers & Cloud Computing
E
very time you use a search engine,
watch an online video, use an
email service, use social media, read
or write blogs, buy products online,
use an AI system, or even read Silicon Chip or most other magazines or
newspapers online, you are almost
certainly using a data centre.
Data centres contain large numbers
of computer servers where information is received, stored, managed, processed and disseminated. A server is
a computer on which software runs
remotely, to ‘serve’ other computers
called ‘clients’ over a network. Such
software applications include web
servers, email servers, databases, custom servers and more.
Small companies might start with
their own central computer system
with an in-house server to store and
process their data. As they grow, it
might become more economical to
move these services to offsite data
centres, especially for companies with
multiple locations. Companies can:
● pay a data centre to host their
own hardware
● rent hardware from a third party
but manage the software themselves
12
Silicon Chip
● have their off-site hardware and
software managed entirely by a thirdparty or multiple parties
More and more these days, individuals also pay companies to manage offsite services and data for them, often
referring to those services as being in
‘the cloud’.
For example, you might be a Google
customer and use Google Docs, Gmail,
Google Drive etc; or an Apple customer
using iCloud, Apple Mail etc; or a
Microsoft customer using OneDrive,
Office 365 etc.
Those services may use local apps
(or run in a web browser) but most of
the ‘heavy lifting’ is done in servers
located in data centres. In most cases,
those servers are distributed around
the world, so there will always be a
local server for fast access (and also so
that the entire service doesn’t go down
due to one network outage).
In some cases (or in certain areas), it
is also necessary to store data locally
to comply with local laws.
Cloud services providers can be
huge; they might contain tens of thousands of servers, or even millions, as
they service numerous companies
Australia's electronics magazine
(and individuals) from all over the
world.
The origins of data centres
Early computers were room-sized,
used large amounts of power and
needed a specialised environment
with air conditioning, raised floors
for cables, provision of a large power
system and a building capable of taking the weight of the computer. Such
computers were known as “mainframes” (see Fig.1). They were typically accessed via a ‘dumb terminal’,
as shown in Fig.2.
That was the case from the late
1940s through to the 1970s. Only large
businesses, government organisations
and scientific establishments could
afford such computers. Due to the cost,
computing was often done through
‘time-sharing’ arrangements, where
many users accessed a portion of the
power of one large computer through
a terminal at their desk or some common location.
In the 1970s, the microcomputer
was invented, and it was popularised
in the 1980s. Software could then be
run by individuals from their personal
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the NASA Mission Control computer room in 1962 which used two IBM
7094-11 computers. Source: https://archive.org/details/S66-15331
computer (PC), which is also where
data was stored. Software was developed that did not need specialised
training to use (it was more ‘userfriendly’).
Unfortunately, having a computer
on every desk led to other problems,
such as organisations losing control
of their IT resources. This created an
incentive to again centralise computing resources.
Some larger government and corporate entities still maintained special rooms with traditional mainframe
computers where critical data was
stored, even with the rollout and acceptance of microcomputers. Still, by and
large, desktop PCs were widely used
throughout the 1980s and 1990s until
the internet started to expand rapidly.
The expansion of the internet and
the resulting vast requirement for
data storage and e-commerce created
a need for centralised computing and
data storage. This coincided with the
so-called ‘dot.com bubble’, from about
1995 to 2000, with large investments
in IT-related companies.
Central data storage was expensive,
and eCommerce companies needed a
fast internet connection, which at the
time was costly. There was also the
need for backup power for the computers and dedicated staff to maintain
the systems.
It thus became preferable for organisations to subcontract their data storage and computing requirements to
an external organisation, such as a
siliconchip.com.au
data centre, where economies of scale
helped to minimise costs.
In a way, the modern data centre
represents a return to the earliest days
of computing via centralised systems
with dedicated staff.
Fig.2: a typical way to interact with a
computer in the early 1960s was via a
printing Teletype, such as this ASR-33
model, introduced in 1963. Source:
https://w.wiki/B5fn
A data centre is a dedicated facility
that houses computers, storage media,
networking, power & telecommunications infrastructure, cooling systems,
fire suppression systems, security systems, staff facilities and anything else
required to run networked computers.
the customer has to do is access it. It
is a somewhat nebulous concept (like
a cloud!).
Clouds may be public, such as many
of the services operated by Microsoft,
Google and Apple, or ‘private’, where
only specific customers with contracts
can access them. Hybrid clouds contain a mix of public and private data
and/or services.
Macquarie Data Centres (https://
macquariedatacentres.com) hosts a
lot of data and services for Australian companies and the federal government.
What is “the cloud”?
Service delivery models
This expression is often used in reference to computers running in data
centres. ‘The cloud’ represents the
availability of computing resources
to an end user anywhere that an internet connection exists. That generally
implies that the resources are located
in one or more data centres.
While cloud resources could be
hosted in one central location, more
likely, they will be distributed over
a range of locations for redundancy,
to reduce bandwidth requirements
over long-distance connections and to
reduce latency (access time).
Most commonly, a ‘cloud’ service is
a type of Software as a Service (SaaS),
as per the following section on delivery models. That means that both the
cloud hardware and software (including the operating system, applications
etc) are managed by a third party. All
A data centre or cloud can be managed in various ways, as shown in
Fig.3. It can either be completely
in-house, or with infrastructure as a
service (IaaS), platform as a service
(PaaS) or software (applications) as
a service (SaaS) representing reducing levels of customer management
and increasing levels of data centre or
cloud provider management.
For those who are curious, the Silicon Chip website (and some of our
other software) use the IaaS model.
We do this to retain maximum control
over our systems, without us having to
worry about provisioning high-speed
internet, backup power, cooling etc.
It also saves money because we only
need a fraction of the power of a computer, so we can share hardware with
others to split the costs.
Tenancy refers to the sharing of
What is a data centre?
Australia's electronics magazine
January 2025 13
Fig.3: four different data centre service delivery models (related to the concept of tenancy).
Original source: https://w.wiki/B5fq
resources. Multi-tenancy is popular on
public cloud services, such as Microsoft Azure. In this case, an individual
customer’s data remains invisible and
inaccessible to others, but they share
hardware, networking, other infrastructure, databases and memory. In
that case, there are limited possibilities for the customisation of application software.
Examples of multi-tenancy software
providers include Google Apps, Salesforce, Dropbox, Mailchimp, HubSpot,
DocuSign and Zendesk.
With single-tenancy, there is no
sharing of resources, which means
maximum control over the software
– see Fig.4.
Virtual machines and servers
A virtual machine or virtual server
is an emulated version of a physical
computer running within a physical
computer. To put it another way, from
the customer’s perspective, they have
access to an entire computer, with
which they can do whatever they like.
But it doesn’t exist as a physical computer; instead, it is software running on
a physical computer, alongside many
other customers’ virtual machines.
Businesses can create their own virtual server, which can run software
and operating systems, store data,
perform networking functions and do
other computing functions as though
it was a real physical computer.
This virtual server runs under a software layer known as a ‘hypervisor’,
which manages the memory, CPU,
storage, networking and other physical resources of the physical computer and allocates them to the virtual
machines as required.
● lower costs (due to economies
of scale)
● lower latency and faster transfer speeds
● hardware maintenance performed
by third parties with access to experts
and parts
● multi-tenancy allows costs and
resources to be shared among a large
pool of users
● data centres typically have a lot
of redundancy, making them resistant to power outages and natural or
human-induced disasters
Why use the cloud?
These reasons include those for
using a data centre, plus:
● device independence; applications can be typically via a web
browser, so will work from any operating system, including mobile devices
● software maintenance, including
updates, performed by expert third
parties
● performance monitoring and
security by expert third parties
● scalability and elasticity so
resources can be increased as required
How many data centres exist?
According to Cloudscene (https://
cloudscene.com), there are 308 data
centres in Australia (mostly in Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane) with
international connectivity to the rest of
the world by numerous subsea cables.
There are 81 in New Zealand, mostly
in Auckland and Wellington. Worldwide, there are approximately 11,000
data centres, with the United States
of America having the most at 5387.
Data centre infrastructure
Data centres have major network
infrastructure to connect the data centre to the outside world with plenty
of bandwidth. The internal network
is also handy for transferring data
between multiple computers operated
by the same customer (and sometimes
even different customers, eg, web
crawlers for search engines).
There is also significant storage
infrastructure for storing data and
software; it may be integrated with
the computing nodes, or separate and
accessed through internal high-speed
networking.
Of course, there are plenty of computing resources for data processing
with onboard memory, with connections to data and applications storage,
plus internet infrastructure. These
are supported by cooling systems,
power supplies and fire suppression
Why use a data centre?
We touched on this earlier when we
explained why we use IaaS, but there
are other reasons, including:
14
Silicon Chip
Fig.4: the single tenancy vs multi-tenancy models for data centres. DB is short
for database. Original source: https://resources.igloosoftware.com/blog/multitenancy-database
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.5: the NVIDIA
GH200 Grace Hopper
platform, based on
the Grace Hopper
Superchip. This board is
capable of four petaflops
(4 × 1015 floating point
operations per second)
and includes 72 ARM
CPUs, 96GB of HBM3
memory for the CPUs
plus 576GB for the
GPUs. Source: TechSpot
– siliconchip.au/link/
ac19
systems. The work of a data centre
is done in various forms of processing units:
CPUs (central processing units)
CPUs are at the heart of traditional
computers and generally continue to
be, including in data centres. They
may be supplemented by GPUs, TPUs
and DPUs (each described below) to
improve performance or provide new
capabilities.
An example of a CPU designed for
data centres is the fourth-generation
AMD EPYC based on the x86 architecture, as used in most PCs and servers (Fig.7). It is designed to be energy
efficient, secure and give high performance. Each of these processors may
include up to 128 Zen 4 or Zen 4c
cores, allowing each server to potentially handle thousands of requests at
any time.
GPUs (graphics processing units)
GPUs are special processors to accelerate the rendering of images, including 3D scenes. They are also capable
of image processing.
While they were originally designed
for graphics applications, they are
highly suitable for non-graphics applications such as parallel processing,
accelerated computing and neural
networks as needed in machine learning and artificial intelligence (AI). As
such, they are commonly found in AI
systems.
The term ‘accelerated computing’
refers to using specialised hardware
such as GPUs to more efficiently performing complex computing tasks
than traditional CPUs can.
An example of a GPU used in accelerated computing and AI data centres
is the NVIDIA Grace Hopper Superchip processor, which forms part of the
GH200 Grace Hopper platform (Fig.5).
It is specifically designed for accelerated computing and generative AI, primarily in data centres. It utilises the
latest HBM3e high bandwidth memory
technology that provides 10TB/sec of
memory bandwidth.
TPUs (tensor processing units)
TPUs are proprietary ASICs (application specific integrated circuits) by
Google, optimised for neural network
machine learning and artificial intelligence. Various versions have been produced since 2015. They are designed
for high computational throughput at
low precision, handling numbers with
as few as eight bits.
The chips (see Fig.6) are designed
Fig.7: a range of AMD fourth-generation EPYC processors designed specifically
for data centre applications. Source: www.amd.com/en/products/processors/
server/epyc/4th-generation-9004-and-8004-series.html
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
Fig.6: Google’s v5p TPU chip. Source:
https://thetechportal.com/2024/04/09/
google-ai-chip
specifically for Google’s TensorFlow
framework for machine learning and
artificial intelligence, and are incorporated into ‘packages’, as shown in
Fig.8.
A notable application was Google’s
use of TPUs to find and process all the
text in the pictures of Google’s Street
View database in under five days. Google has developed what they call the
Cloud TPU v5p AI Hypercomputer
(Fig.9).
DPUs (data processing units)
DPUs, also called infrastructure processing units (IPUs) or SmartNICs (NIC
stands for network interface controller) are used to optimise data centre
workloads and to manage networking,
security and storage. They relieve system CPUs of these workloads.
An example is the SolidNET DPU,
an ARM-based software-defined DPU
with a PCIe half-height-half-length
(HHHL) format. It is based on an offthe-shelf 16-core NXP LX2161A System on Card (SOC) and uses open
standards (see Fig.10). For more information, see siliconchip.au/link/ac0b
Power supply
A typical data centre power system
includes:
Fig.8: Google’s TPU v4 board. It
has 4 PCIe connectors and 16 OSFP
connectors. Source: https://w.wiki/B5fr
January 2025 15
● transformer(s) to reduce the utility voltage, if necessary
● automatic switching gear to
switch to backup power sources such
as a generator in the event of a utility failure
● a UPS (uninterruptible power
supply) supplied by a battery bank to
provide backup power in the event
of a utility failure, until the generator
starts, as well as to condition power
and remove voltage spikes in normal
operation
● power distribution units (PDU),
an electrical board to distribute power
from the UPS to equipment locations
● a remote power panel (RPP),
an electrical sub-board to distribute power from the PDU to individual rack-mounted power distribution
units (rPDU)
rPDUs are much like power boards.
Individual servers or other equipment
are plugged into them. Some of these
components may be absent, depending
on the size and sophistication of the
data centre. All of the above has cables,
wiring, circuit breaker boards etc.
Some data centres use flywheel
energy storage rather than a battery-
based UPS (see siliconchip.au/link/
ac1b). They can be slightly more costly
to install, but they don’t degrade over
time as much as batteries do.
Power consumption
Data centres, especially AI data
centres, use an enormous amount of
electrical power. That’s both to power
the computers themselves, particularly their CPUs, GPUs and TPUs, as
well as their cooling systems. So it is
important that these be designed to
be as efficient as possible to minimise
power consumption.
Data centres need access to inexpensive, reliable 24/7 power supplies.
They consume a significant amount
of the world’s electrical power; one
estimate is 1%-1.5% (siliconchip.au/
link/ac0i). According to another estimate (siliconchip.au/link/ac0j), AI
currently uses 8% of the world’s electrical energy.
The IEA predicts that data centres
will consume 6% of electrical power in
the United States by 2026, and 32% in
Ireland by 2026, up from 17% in 2022
(siliconchip.au/link/ac0k).
A typical ‘hyperscale’ data centre
consumes up to 100MW according
to Oper8 Global (the largest is up to
960MW). But that is just internal consumption. Given a power usage effectiveness (PUE) of 1.3, 130MW will
need to be provided from the grid.
At a time when dispatchable (on
demand) power capacity is diminishing in many countries and being
replaced with intermittent solar and
wind production, plus the energy
demand for charging electric vehicles,
it is not clear where all this power will
come from.
The shortage of power has been recognised. According to the CBRE Group
(siliconchip.au/link/ac0l):
A worldwide shortage of available power is inhibiting growth of the
global data center market. Sourcing
enough power is a top priority of data
center operators across North America, Europe, Latin America and Asia-
Pacific. Certain secondary markets
with robust power supplies stand to
attract more data center operators.
Data centres are being set up in New
Zealand with access to 200MW of relatively inexpensive hydroelectric, gas
and geothermal energy, from which
79% of New Zealand’s total production
is derived (siliconchip.au/link/ac0m).
In the United States, Equinix, a
data centre provider, signed a 20-year
non-binding agreement with Oklo to
purchase up to 500MW of nuclear
power (siliconchip.au/link/ac0n).
Microsoft is proposing to use
nuclear power for its data centres (see
siliconchip.au/link/ac0o), as is Google
(siliconchip.au/link/ac0p). Amazon
purchased a nuclear-powered data
centre in Salem Township, Pennsylvania, USA (siliconchip.au/link/ac0q).
It consumes an almost unbelievable
960MW of electrical power.
According to Funds Europe, the
rapid growth of data centres is putting an unsustainable strain on the
European electrical grid (siliconchip.
au/link/ac0r). They already use 2.7%
of their power, expected to increase to
3.2% by 2030. It has been suggested
they use small modular reactors (SMR)
and micro modular reactors (MMR) to
power data centres. There is a growing
interest in using nuclear power for AI
data centres: siliconchip.au/link/ac0j
Cooling
One of the most critical aspects of a
data centre, apart from the computing
resources, is the provision of cooling.
This is because the vast majority of
the enormous amount of power used
by data centres ultimately gets converted into heat.
Data centres are cooled by air conditioning the rooms the computers are
in, and also possibly some type of liquid cooling of the servers themselves.
A data centre can be designed with
hot and cold aisles between server
racks to help maximise the efficiency
of the cooling system. Cold air may
Fig.9: inside part of Google’s
‘hypercomputer’ based on v5p
TPUs arranged into ‘pods’. Each
pod contains 8960 v5p
TPUs. Source: Axios
– siliconchip.au/
link/ac1a
Fig.10: a
SolidRun
SolidNET
Software-Defined
DPU (data processing
unit). Source: www.
storagereview.com/news/
solidrun-solidnet-software-defineddpu-for-the-edge-unveiled
16
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
be delivered from beneath perforated
floor tiles and into the server racks
before being discharged into the hot
aisles (see Fig.12). Alternatively, hot
air may be collected at the top of the
server racks rather than being blown
into an aisle.
Some data centres are using emerging technologies such as immersing
the computer equipment in a fluid
to efficiently remove heat (Fig.13). In
two-phase cooling, a volatile cooling
liquid boils and condenses on a coil
which is connected to a heat exchanger
to remover heat, after which it drips
down into the coolant pool.
We published an article in
the November 2018 issue on the
DownUnder GeoSolutions supercomputer in Perth that was immersed in
an oil bath for cooling (siliconchip.au/
Article/11300).
Water usage
Some data centres, especially those
used for AI, consume water for cooling
and hydroelectric generation as well.
One would think that cooling a data
centre would mostly involve a closed
loop system, like a typical car. But
apparently that is not always the case,
as many data centres use large amounts
of water. Nature magazine states:
...in July 2022, the month before
OpenAI finished training the model,
the cluster used about 6% of the district’s water. As Google and Microsoft
prepared their Bard and Bing large language models, both had major spikes
in water use — increases of 20% and
34%, respectively, in one year, according to the companies’ environmental reports... demand for water for AI
could be half that of the United Kingdom by 2027 – https://doi.org/10.1038/
d41586-024-00478-x
Details of Microsoft’s water consumption for AI is at siliconchip.au/
link/ac0u
About 2/3 of the water used by Amazon data centres evaporates; the rest
is used for irrigation (siliconchip.au/
link/ac0v). That source also states that
the amount of water to be consumed
by a proposed Google data centre is
regarded as a trade secret!
Fig.11: part of the elaborate plumbing for the cooling system for the Google
data centre in Douglas County, Georgia. Source: www.google.com/about/
datacenters/gallery
Fig.12: one possible configuration of a data centre using the concept of hot and
cold aisles between rows of servers. Original source: www.techtarget.com/
searchdatacenter/How-to-design-and-build-a-data-center
Fig.13: the concept of twophase immersion cooling for
server equipment Source:
www.gigabyte.
com/Solutions/
liquidstack-twophase
Fire detection and suppression
Due to the very high electrical power
density inside a data centre, if a fire
breaks out, it could get serious very
quickly. Fire detection systems need
to give early warning to prevent major
siliconchip.com.au
Vapor condenses on
coil or lid condenser
Fluid recirculates
passively to bath
Vapor rises to top
Heat generated on
chip and fluid turns
into vapor
Australia's electronics magazine
January 2025 17
Fig.14: a comparison of the VESDA early warning smoke detection to
conventional fire detection systems. Source: https://xtralis.com/product_
subcategory/2/VESDA-Aspirating-Smoke-Detection
Fig.15: an artist’s impression of the Victaulic Vortex fire suppression system
in operation, discharging a water and nitrogen fog. Source: https://youtu.be/
qmhO7E4c0tM
Fig.16: the entry lobby of a Google data centre uses a Circlelock door and retinal
scan, emphasising the high security requirements of data centres. Source: www.
google.com/about/datacenters/gallery
18
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
damage, and fire extinguishing systems need to cause minimal damage
to electrical equipment.
VESDA (Very Early Smoke Detection Apparatus) is a highly sensitive
smoke detector (Fig.14), at least 1000
times more sensitive than a typical
smoke alarm. It sucks air through perforated pipes that are routed around a
protected area, then analyses the sample for the presence of smoke with
sensitive detectors. It is an Australian
invention in use in many data centres
for the early detection of fires.
Victaulic Vortex is a fire suppression system used in many data centres (Fig.15). It is a combined water
and nitrogen fire extinguishing system. Tiny droplets of water and nitrogen gas, like a fog, are discharged from
nozzles to absorb heat, reduce oxygen
and extinguish the fire.
It causes minimal or no wetting
and therefore no equipment damage,
avoiding a costly clean-up. After rectifying the fire damage, the data centre
can be quickly returned to operation.
Security
Physical security, data security,
environmental security (avoiding
flooding, earthquakes etc) and power
supply security are all important considerations for data centres. Human
entry usually requires some type of
biometric system (like a retinal scan)
via a secure doorway – see Fig.16.
That shows a Circlelock door, which is
described at siliconchip.au/link/ac0c
Server racks
Server racks are standardised frames
(typically made from metal) that hold
computer servers, network switches or
other equipment. They help to organise wiring, airflow or plumbing for
cooling, provide access for service &
maintenance, and sometimes physical
security – see Fig.17.
Server racks are mounted together
in single or multiple rows in whatever number is required, as shown in
Fig.18. An important feature of server
racks is that they allow a very high
density, with up to 42 individual systems in one standard rack, or over 100
with a ‘blade’ configuration.
A server rack is designed to accommodate equipment that is 19 inches
(482.6mm) wide; that standard was
established in 1922 by AT&T. The
height of equipment is standardised in
heights representing multiples of 1.75
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.17: this server rack is mostly
populated with network switches and
patch panels. Source: Fourbs Group –
siliconchip.au/link/ac1c
Fig.18: a group of server racks in a
data centre. Source: https://kpmg.
com/jp/en/home/insights/2022/03/
datacenter-business.html
Fig.19: removing a 1U rack-mounted
server mounted with sliding rails.
Source: https://youtu.be/fWaW9lA_
pA0
inches (44.45mm). A single-height
unit is designated 1U (see Fig.19), double height 2U etc.
Equipment might be mounted on
rails so it can easily be slid out for
service. Alternatively, and more simply, it may be bolted to the edges of
the rack using ‘rack ears’.
Almost all aspects of server racks
are covered by CEA, DIN, EIA, IEC and
other standards. The so-called 19-inch
rack is used for many other types of
equipment as well.
There are some other rack standards.
One example is Open Rack, an initiative of the Open Compute Project.
This rack was specifically designed
for large-scale cloud deployments
and has features such as a pair of 48V
DC busbars at the rear to power the
equipment.
It is designed for equipment that is
21-inches (538mm) wide instead of
19in (482.6mm), with a vertical spacing of 1.89in (48mm) instead of 1.75in
(44.45mm) to improve cooling.
The racks are strong to accommodate the extra weight of equipment,
all cables connect at the front rather
than the back, and IT equipment is
hot pluggable. See Fig.20 for a typical
Open Rack configuration.
According to Seagate (siliconchip.
au/link/ac0d), over 90% of online data
stored in data centres is on hard disk,
with the remainder on SSDs.
Western Digital sells a drive intended
for use in data centres, the Ultrastar DC
HC680, with a capacity of 28TB. Seagate’s Exos X series of hard drives have
capacities up to 32TB.
Tape drives are also used in data
centres for archiving data and backups.
They have great durability and longevity, and can provide an ‘air gap’ (no
physical connection to the rest of the
system) to protect stored data against
hacking attempts and ransomware.
They are also low in cost for their
high capacity.
Enterprise and Datacenter Standard
Form Factor (EDSFF) is a specification
designed to address the limitations of
the 2.5-inch and M.2 sizes for solid-
state drives. EDSFF drives provide
better signal integrity, can draw more
power and have higher maximum
read/write speeds.
Data storage
While there is a general move to
solid-state drives (SSDs) for data storage, hard disk drives (HDDs) retain
some advantages over SSDs such as
lower price, especially for higher
capacities; they last longer, with little
degradation with constant read/write
cycles; and data recovery is easier for
certain failure modes.
siliconchip.com.au
Standards for data centres
Various international standards
exist for the design of data centres
and their security and operational efficiency. Examples include:
● ISO/IEC 22237-series
● ANSI/TIA-942
● ANSI/BICSI 002-2024
● Telcordia GR-3160
Data centre ratings
Data centres can be rated according
to the TIA-942 standard:
Rated-1: Basic Site Infrastructure
The data centre has single-capacity
components, a non-redundant distribution path for all equipment and
limited protection against physical
events.
Rated-2: Redundant Component
Site Infrastructure
The data centre has redundant
capacity components, but a non-
redundant distribution path that
serves the computer equipment.
Fig.20: a typical configuration for
an Open Compute Project V2 rack.
Original source: Mission Critical
Magazine – siliconchip.au/link/ac1e
Australia's electronics magazine
Rated-3: Concurrently
Maintainable Site Infrastructure
The data centre has redundant
capacity components and redundant
January 2025 19
distribution paths that serve the computer equipment, allowing for concurrent maintainability of any piece
of equipment. It also has improved
physical security.
Fig.21: the Google Cloud TPU v5e AI infrastructure in a data centre. Source:
https://cloud.google.com/blog/products/compute/announcing-cloud-tpu-v5eand-a3-gpus-in-ga
Rated-4: Fault Tolerant Site
Infrastructure
The data centre has redundant
capacity components, active redundant distribution paths to serve the
equipment and protection against single failure scenarios. It also includes
the highest level of security.
A ‘hyperscale’ data centre is one
designed to accommodate extreme
workloads. Amazon, Facebook, Google, IBM and Microsoft are examples
of companies that use them.
Artificial intelligence (AI)
Fig.22: the Microsoft Azure infrastructure that runs ChatGPT. Source: https://
news.microsoft.com/source/features/ai/how-microsofts-bet-on-azure-unlockedan-ai-revolution
Fig.23: inside a small section of the Google data centre in Douglas County,
Georgia, USA. Source: www.google.com/about/datacenters/gallery
20
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
Some data centres are specialised
for AI workloads.
AI data centres are much like regular data centres in that they require
large computing resources and specialised buildings. However, the resource
requirements for AI are substantially
more than a conventional data centre.
According to Australia’s Macquarie
Data Centres, conventional data centres require around 12kW per rack, but
an AI data centre might require 60kW
per rack. Oper8 Global (siliconchip.
au/link/ac0w) states that an ‘extreme
density’ rack can have a power consumption of up to 150kW!
An AI data centre requires far
more computing resources. Instead
of mainly using CPUs, it will also
contain a significant number of GPUs
and TPUs.
Deep learning & machine learning
AI data centres can use either
machine learning or deep learning.
Machine learning uses algorithms to
interpret and learn from data, while
deep learning uses similar algorithms
but structures them into layers, within
an artificial neural network simulating
how a brain learns.
A neural network is hardware and/
or software with architecture inspired
by that of the human (or other) brains.
It is used for deep learning, a form of
artificial intelligence. Large versions of
these are run in data centres. Machine
learning does not necessarily use neural networks (but it can).
Machine learning is best for structured tasks with small datasets, with
thousands of data points, but may
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.24: Google Cloud (Cloud
CDN) locations (dots) and their
interconnecting subsea cables.
Source: https://cloud.google.com/
about/locations#network
require human intervention if a
learned prediction is incorrect. Deep
learning is best for making sense of
unstructured data with large datasets and millions of data points.
Deep learning can determine for itself
whether a prediction is wrong or not.
Machine learning is relatively quick
to train but less powerful; deep learning can take weeks or months to train,
like a person.
CPUs have advantages for implementing recurrent neural networks
(RNNs). Typical applications for RNNs
are for translating language, speech
recognition, natural language processing and image captioning.
GPUs have advantages for some
fully connected neural networks. They
are probably the most common type of
processor used for neural networks,
hence the huge stock value of companies that make GPUs like NVIDIA,
which at the time of writing is one of
the most valuable publicly listed companies in the world at US$2.6 trillion.
Fully connected neural networks
are suitable for deep learning and
have applications in speech recognition, image recognition, visual art
characterisation, generating art, natural language processing, drug discovery and toxicology, marketing, medical image analysis, image restoration,
materials science, robot training, solving complex mathematical equations
and weather prediction, among others.
TPUs have advantages for convolutional neural networks (CNNs). Applications for CNNs include pattern recognition, image recognition and object
detection. Fig.21 shows part of the
Google Cloud TPU data centre artificial
siliconchip.com.au
intelligence infrastructure. Also see
the video titled “Inside a Google Cloud
TPU Data Center” at https://youtu.be/
FsxthdQ_sL4
Rack (mentioned previously), energy-
efficient power supplies and network
switches based on SONiC (Software
for Open Networking in the Cloud).
ChatGPT
This popular AI ‘chatbot’, developed by OpenAI, is hosted on a Microsoft Azure cloud computing data
centre infrastructure (see Fig.22). It
runs on tens of thousands of NVIDIA’s
H100 Tensor Core GPUs with NVIDIA
Quantum-2 InfiniBand networking.
Underwater data centres
Google data centres
Google is among the largest owners
of data centres, storing vast amounts
of the world’s data. Fig.23 shows the
inside of a part of a Google data centre, while Fig.24 shows the location of
Google Cloud data centres and their
interconnection via undersea cables.
The locations of data centres for delivering media such as videos (such as for
YouTube) can be seen at siliconchip.
au/link/ac1d
Open Compute Project (OCP)
The OCP (www.opencompute.org)
was founded in 2011 with the objective of sharing designs for data centre
products and practices. Companies
involved include Alibaba Group, Arm,
Cisco, Dell, Fidelity, Goldman Sachs,
Google, Hewlett Packard Enterprise,
IBM, Intel, Lenovo, Meta, Microsoft,
Nokia, NVIDIA, Rackspace, Seagate
Technology and Wiwynn.
Their projects include server
designs, an accelerator module for
increasing the speed of neural networks in AI applications, data storage modules (Open Vault), Open
Australia's electronics magazine
Because of the significant cooling
requirements of data centres and the
need for physical security, experiments have been made in placing data
centres underwater.
They would be constructed within
a pressure-resistant waterproof container, with only electrical and data
cables coming to the surface. They
would not have any staff. With no people, there is no need for a breathable
atmosphere, so it can be pure nitrogen
to reduce corrosion of connectors and
other parts.
There is also no possibility of accidental damage such as people dislodging wires etc. Also, there would
be no dust to clog cooling fans or get
into connectors.
The underwater environment has a
stable temperature, resulting in fewer
failures than when the temperature
can vary a lot.
It is much easier and more efficient
to exchange heat with a fluid such as
water than with air, reducing the overall power consumption.
An underwater environment also
provides protection from some forms
of nuclear radiation, which can
cause errors in ICs, as water is a good
absorber of certain types of radiation.
Water can also absorb electromagnetic
pulses (EMP) from nuclear explosions.
The fact that the electronics are also
effectively housed in a Faraday cage
will also help with disaster resistance.
January 2025 21
Fig.25: cleaning Microsoft’s
underwater data centre after
being on the seabed for two
years, off the Orkney Islands in
Scotland. Source: https://news.
microsoft.com/source/features/
sustainability/project-natickunderwater-datacenter
Fig.26: an IBM modular data centre built
into a standard 40ft (12.2m) long shipping
container. Source: https://w.wiki/B5ft
Physical security is improved as
being underwater, even if a diver could
get to it, there would be no practical
way to get inside without flooding the
whole container.
An underwater data centre can
also contribute to reduced latency
(response time) because half the
world’s population lives within 200km
of the sea, so they can be optimally
placed near population centres and
possibly undersea cables.
Underwater data centre projects
include:
● Microsoft Project Natick (https://
natick.research.microsoft.com), an
experiment first deployed in 2015 with
a data centre built within a pressure
vessel 12.2m long, 3.18m in diameter,
and is about the same size as a standard 40ft (12.2m) shipping container
– see Fig.25.
Its power consumption was 240kW.
It had 12 racks containing 864 standard Microsoft data centre servers with
FPGA acceleration and 27.6 petabytes
of storage. The atmosphere was 100%
nitrogen at one bar. Its planned operational period without maintenance
was five years.
● Subsea Cloud (www.subseacloud.
com) is proposing to put data centres 3km below sea level for physical
security.
● Chinese company Highlander
plans to build a commercial undersea
data centre at the Hainan Island free
trade zone, with a facility for 100 airtight pressure vessels on the seabed.
Modular data centres
A modular data centre is designed to
be portable and is built into a structure
like a shipping container – see Fig.26.
They might be used to supplement the
capacity of an existing data centre, for
disaster recovery, humanitarian purposes or for any other reasons where
a data centre has to be moved into a
place it is needed.
Fig.27: looking like somewhere
where Superman might live,
this 65-storey data centre is
proposed to be built in Iceland.
Source: www.yankodesign.
com/2016/04/01/the-internetsfortress-of-solitude
Iceland data centre
A 65-storey data centre has been
proposed to be built in the Arctic (see
Fig.27). It was designed by Valeria
Mercuri and Marco Merletti.
If built in Iceland, it could take
advantage of inexpensive geothermal
energy and be close to international
cable networks. The low temperatures
would minimise cooling costs, and
the vertical design would minimise
land usage.
SC
22
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
January
altronics.com.au
Workbench
DEALS
Our yearly workbench is now on! Only until January 31st.
Great for
cleaning the
car too!
T 1345
299
Vehicle Jump Starter
& Power Bank
$
Don’t get stuck with a dud
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24000mAh rated battery
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M 8195C
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Q 1089
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D0511C
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Offers convenience and plenty
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Stylish new battery banks.
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LED Assortment Pack
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110000rpm jet fan with up to 3 hours use per charge. USB C
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Z 0003
129
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This high power rechageable fan/vacuum is great for
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SAVE
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Push button design simplifies operation and test jack indicators ensure
you never plug a cable in wrong!
T 1346 Vacuum
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D 0507E 10000mAh
Autoranging True RMS
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K 9642
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310pc Jumper Header Kit
Single row header connectors.
Includes male & female pin headers,
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K 9645 90°
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99
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T 2040
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K 9643 90°
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15.95
$
1.25mm Connection Kit
2.54mm Connection Kit
90° boxed 1.25mm PCB connectors and
plugs in 2, 3, 4 and 5 way. Plus crimp
pins. 150pcs total.
90° or straight boxed 2.54mm PCB
connectors and plugs in 2, 3, 4 and 5
way. Plus crimp pins. 150pcs total.
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Build It Yourself Electronics Centre®
Connect
&Charge.
Great for families, class rooms
& business. Massive 200W
charge output across 10 x
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BONUS:
M 8882B
5 x USB cables to suit!
Valued at $53.75
$
59
40
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Need an extra
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90W Car Laptop Charger
This 65W USB-C power delivery
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189
SAVE $44
A 96W power delivery
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19
A 0289A
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D 2362A
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Up to 90W power output for most
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Includes 9 laptop adaptors - see web
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Bench Mount
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M 8627B
M 8868A
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Ultimate
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X 0604C
33
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USB Switched Hub
USB Dual Battery Charger
Bluetooth Car Audio Adapter
A handy 7 port USB 3.0 hub with dedicated
on/off switches for each port. Type A connection + USB C power input.
This do it all charger works with
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27
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D 2364
USB C Dual Monitor Hub
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USB C Multi Hub
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USB QC3.0 Charging Socket
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29
P 8164*
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$
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8 Outlet Surge Board & 4 Way USB Charger
Provides connection for all your appliances with 60,000A surge protection
and 4 way USB charger (max total 3.1A output. 2.1 single port). 1.5m cable.
Power up your
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Power Saver
Mains Switch
Great for the
workbench!
Two top mount GPO’s
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USB charger (20W
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Desolder
parts in
seconds!
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239
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50
T 2065
Vacuum Desoldering Station
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removing molten solder quickly and easily from solder
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T 1463
Ultimate Helping Hands
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Handy 20pc Electronics
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Double Sided
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T 2163
This kit is jam packed with tools to get started in
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H 0234
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T 4018
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T 2168A
Features
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handles
69 Piece Dual Ratchet Driver Kit
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T 2187A
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T 2192
60 Piece Home Tool Kit
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Pro 72 Piece Servicing Kit
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Upgrade & SAVE.
The classic handy
nibbler tool.
Suitable for cutting odd
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steel: 1mm, aluminium:
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Suits
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18
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Carbon steel
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22
$
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T 2754A
Remove rough
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15
Handy Circlip Pliers
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14
$
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T 1574
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Tough HRC 72° tungsten
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Anti Static
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Inspection Mirror
The workbench classic! Quickly
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Make inspection and repairs
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T 1512B
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Deburring
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Precision
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Accurate Digital
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Iroda® Mini Jet
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SAVE 15%
Includes
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38
$
Iroda® Handheld
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Deutsch Connector Crimping Kit
The complete suite of tools for popular
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Precision
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Great for
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B 0001
Project by Stephen Denholm
This straightforward piece of test
equipment measures capacitor
values over a wide range, from about
10pF to 10,000μF (10mF). It’s easy to
assemble with all through-hole parts,
fits into a UB1 Jiffy box, and won’t
break the bank either.
I
Digital
Capacitance
Meter
occasionally need to measure values of
large electrolytic capacitors (up to at
least 6800µF) but have been restrained
by the limited capacitance measurement ranges of the DMMs I have. To
overcome this, I’ve resorted to setting
up a test circuit using a digital oscilloscope to measure a capacitor’s value
by measuring their charge time.
This worked well but was time consuming. I explored Silicon Chip magazines looking for a relatively simple
capacitance meter project that I could
expand my development skills on and
build. I found quite a few articles on
the subject, ranging from very simple
to quite advanced designs.
Of particular interest was the Circuit Notebook item “PIC capacitance
meter measures charging time” by William Andrew (July 2008; siliconchip.
au/Article/1874). It was a little too
siliconchip.com.au
basic for my requirements, but I liked
the relatively simple design concept,
which appeared to work.
I therefore decided to develop a
similar design that was also PICbased, would use the charging time
measurement concept, was relatively
simple to build and compact, covered
a range from about 10pF up to about
10,000µF, and was powered by a standard 9V battery.
I was also inspired by Jim Rowe’s
article on low cost 1.3-inch OLED displays in October 2023 (siliconchip.
au/Article/15980). I thought I would
have a go at also incorporating one
of those low-power display modules
into my design.
Circuit details
As shown in Fig.1, my circuit
uses an 8-bit enhanced mid-range
Australia's electronics magazine
PIC16F1847 microcontroller unit
(MCU). It has three capacitance ranges
selected by switch S1 and shows the
measured value of the capacitor under
test (Cx) on the 1.3-inch OLED display
(MOD1). The OLED is also used to
display any over/under range or battery voltage warning messages that
are necessary.
The measurement operating
sequence is commenced by pressing pushbutton switch S3. The MCU
will then first ensure that Cx is fully
discharged by switching on Q4 for
a short period, then off, discharging
it via the 33W resistor. It then starts
charging capacitor Cx via one of Mosfets Q1, Q2 or Q3 and the associated
series resistance.
At the same time, it starts the MCU’s
16-bit Timer1, which operates with a
counting interval of 1µs. The charging
January 2025 27
voltage developed across Cx is then
measured by the MCU’s Comparator1
positive input (C1IN+, pin 2) and compared to the voltage applied on its negative input C12IN0− (pin 17).
As soon as the charging voltage
exceeds the voltage at C12IN0−, the
comparator stops Timer1, initiates a
program interrupt and passes control
back to the main program, where the
Timer1 count register values are used
to calculate the capacitance.
As the source voltage for charging
Cx is the 5V Vdd supply, the comparator C12IN0− input is set to 63.2% of
Vdd, nominally 3.16V. This ensures
that the comparator operation and
hence measurement time will always
be equivalent to one RC time constant
of the capacitor under test.
That simplifies the calculation to
Cx = Timer1 count (µs) ÷ selected
range series resistance, scaled accordingly. For the Lo, Mid and Hi capacitance ranges, the MCU calculations
use series resistance values of 2MW,
25kW or 500W, respectively. It also
means that, even if the output of the
5V regulator drifts with temperature
or time, the measurements should
remain accurate.
The actual values used in the circuit are provided by the fixed/variable
resistance combinations VR1 + 1MW,
VR2 + 12kW and VR3 + 500W, which
are switched into or out of circuit by
the MCU via Mosfets Q1, Q2 and Q3.
I used P-channel SMD devices as, particularly for the Hi range, they need
28
Silicon Chip
low on-resistances to slightly improve
the measurement accuracy.
Suitable PNP transistors such as
BC858s with base resistors of say 1kW
to 3.9kW may work reasonably well,
but with a small reduction in measurement performance. However, I have
not tried that arrangement.
re-compiling the code and uploading it to the MCU if necessary. I did
briefly think about adding an auto-
zeroing function to the meter design
but decided it wasn’t worth the extra
effort for my particular requirements,
especially if I always stick to using the
same meter leads.
Performance
Construction
Performance-wise, my meter has
been providing quite accurate and
repeatable results across all three
ranges. I have confirmed this occasionally by checking the meter’s range
extremities against the calibration
capacitors that I now keep for such a
purpose. On the Lo range, it is necessary to keep the meter leads short to
minimise any stray capacitance.
In the MCU program code, I have
allowed compensation for zero-offset
in the Lo range calculations, which
significantly improves the capacitance
measurements for values below 1nF
and surprisingly allows the meter to
achieve quite accurate and consistent
results down to about 10pF.
This zero-offset value compensates for some inherent MCU program
instruction cycle time, which starts to
dominate the measurements for very
short capacitance charging durations.
It also compensates for the stray capacitance inherent in the physical construction of the meter and the short
leads I use.
The zero-offset value is hard-coded,
but it is not too difficult to change by
The board, coded 04111241 and
measuring 80 × 100mm, is a double-
sided design, but there are only a few
top-layer tracks that can easily be
replaced by wire links, as you will
see in the photo of my prototype. So
if you are etching the board yourself,
start by fitting the four wire links you
can see in that photo; they are also visible as top-layer tracks in the overlay
diagram, Fig.2.
Also note that there are four SMD
components that mount on the underside: Mosfets Q1-Q3 and regulator
REG1. They are shown in ‘X-ray’ fashion in Fig.2. Start by soldering them
in place while the board will still fit
flat on your bench.
Q1-Q3 are all the same types and
REG1 is in a different package, so it
should be obvious which goes where
and in what orientation. Do make sure
that the leads are sitting flat on the
board before soldering and not sticking up in the air, which would indicate
that the part is upside-down.
Tack each part by one pin and
check that all the leads are over the
matching PCB pads. If not, remelt that
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the circuit diagram for the
Capacitance Meter. S1 is used to
switch the capacitance range.
joint and gently nudge it into place.
Once it’s properly aligned, solder the
remainder leads and then refresh the
first joint.
Next, flip the board over and solder all the resistors in place. They are
mounted with the leads bent quite
close to the bodies. Follow the overlay
diagram to see which values go where.
There is just one diode, so fit that now,
making sure its cathode stripe goes
towards the top edge of the board as
shown in Fig.2.
You don’t have to use a socket for
IC1, but it makes it easier to swap that
chip if that ever becomes necessary.
Solder either the socket or IC1 directly
to the board, but in either case, make
sure it is orientated with its notched
(pin 1) end towards the top of the PCB.
Solder terminal block CON1 in place
now. We recommend that its wire entry
holes are kept towards the left-hand
side, although you can insert the wires
from either end.
Next, fit the headers (CON2-CON6),
100nF capacitor (which is not polarised) and transistor Q4 (orientated
as shown). Note that CON4 is only
required if you plan on (re)programming IC1 in-circuit. You could leave
the other headers off and solder wires
directly to the board, but we suggest
using headers to make assembly (and
if required later, disassembly) much
easier.
Mount the four trimpots next, making sure the adjustment screws all go
towards the bottom of the board as per
Fig.2: the overlay/wiring diagram for the Digital Capacitance Meter. Check
your OLED pinout before wiring it up; the 5V pin is at the top of CON5.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
January 2025 29
Fig.2. They are all different values, so
don’t get them mixed up.
Now solder the two electrolytic
capacitors in place, ensuring that the
longer (positive) lead goes into the
bottom hole in each case. The negative striped ends of the cans should be
near the top edge of the PCB.
PCB pins for test points TP1 and TP2
are not strictly required if you have a
double-sided board, as you can simply insert DMM probes into the plated
through-holes. If you have a single-
sided board, you will need to solder
PCB pins into the two test point holes.
Rotary switch
The last part to mount directly to the
PCB is the rotary switch. It is a twopole type. As supplied, it will probably have six positions, but we only
need three. To change that, undo the
nut and remove the washer from the
shaft. Prise up the stop washer and
rotate the switch fully anti-clockwise,
then re-insert the stop washer with its
pin going into the second hole between
the moulded “3” and “4”.
Check that it now only switches
through three possible positions. If
not, change the position of the stop
washer and try again. Once it’s correct,
put the lock washer back over the shaft
and tighten the nut on top.
In my build, the switch shaft length
as supplied was just long enough to
Figs.3 & 4:
the cutting
diagrams
for the base
and lid of the
Jiffy box. You
have some
flexibility
with the
locations
cutouts on the
lid, as they’re
mounted off
the board.
All diagrams
are shown
at actual
size, and all
dimensions
are in
millimetres.
30
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
pass through the front panel with
enough poking through to attach
the knob. The exact length required
depends on the height of the spacers
used to mount the PCB in the box and
the knob you’re using.
Ideally, you should temporarily
mount the PCB in the box so you can
check how much to cut off (if any). To
do that, you will first need to drill PCB
mounting holes in the base of the box
and at least one hole in the lid (for the
rotary switch shaft). The PCB mounting hole positions are shown in Fig.3
and the lid holes in Fig.4.
With the shaft cut to length, remove
the PCB from the box and solder the
switch to it. There are two possible
orientations, so match the switch to
the photos and overlay.
The next job is to mount the remaining parts on the front panel/lid and solder wires with female DuPont headers ready to plug into the headers on
the PCB. If you haven’t already, finish
making the holes in the lid as per Fig.4,
after reading the next two paragraphs.
Regarding the OLED screen, you can
see from the photos that I used countersunk head screws, Nylon washers
and nuts to mount it to a clear acrylic
sub-panel, then glued that panel to the
inside of the lid using epoxy. I did it
this way as the acrylic panel provides
some protection for the OLED screen;
the screw heads are hidden under the
front panel label.
You could use the same approach,
or mount the OLED directly to the lid
using the holes shown in Fig.4. However, if you do that, note that even if
you countersink the holes on the outside, the screws will probably still
project above the surface of the lid
due to its thinness. You may be able
to cover them with a label but it’s better to use my approach, if possible, if
you want a flat panel label.
If you use my approach, use washers to space the OLED screen from
the acrylic panel so the screen isn’t
crushed when you tighen the screws.
Strip off pairs of DuPont jumper
wires from the ribbon for the 9V battery snap and switches S2 & S3. Strip
off a set of four for the OLED. Cut them
so that you have bare wires on one
end, then solder them to the panel-
mounting parts (check the OLED pinout with reference to Fig.2). For the
two banana sockets, use medium-duty
hookup wire (or similar) in two different colours instead.
1 single- or double-sided PCB coded 04111241, 80 × 100mm
1 UB1 Jiffy box
1 panel label, 100 × 160mm
1 1.3-inch (33mm) 128×64 pixel I2C OLED display module (MOD1)
[Silicon Chip SC5026 or SC6511]
1 3mm clear acrylic sheet of ~43 x 41mm (for mounting the OLED module)
1 2-pole sealed rotary switch (S1) [Altronics S3022, Jaycar SR1212]
1 miniature panel-mount SPST toggle switch (S2)
1 panel-mount momentary NO pushbutton switch (S3)
[Altronics S0960, Jaycar SP0700]
1 small-to-medium knob to suit S1
1 2-way 5.08mm pitch terminal block (CON1)
3 2-pin headers, 2.54mm pitch (CON2, CON3, CON6)
1 5-pin header, 2.54mm pitch (CON4; optional, for ICSP)
1 4-pin header, 2.54mm pitch (CON5)
1 red panel-mount binding banana socket
1 black panel-mount binding banana socket
1 pair of banana plug to crocodile clip test leads
1 2MW top-adjust multi-turn trimpot (VR1)
1 20kW top-adjust multi-turn trimpot (VR2)
1 500W top-adjust multi-turn trimpot (VR3)
1 50kW top-adjust multi-turn trimpot (VR4)
1 18-pin DIL IC socket (optional)
1 9V battery snap
1 9V battery retaining clip
1 9V battery
5 M3 × 6mm panhead machine screw
8 M3 × 6mm countersunk machine screw
4 M3 × 10mm tapped spacers
4 Nylon M3 washers
5 M3 hex nuts
10 short (~100mm) female/female DuPont jumper leads, joined in a ribbon
2 100mm lengths of medium-duty hookup wire (red & black)
1 100mm length of 1.5mm diameter black/clear/white heatshrink tubing
2 PCB stakes/pins (optional)
Semiconductors
1 PIC16F1847-I/P 8-bit microcontroller programmed with 0411124A.HEX,
DIP-18 (IC1)
1 AMS1117-5.0 or similar 5V 1A LDO linear regulator, SOT-223 (REG1)
3 AO3401(A) or SQ2351ES P-channel logic-level Mosfets, SOT-23 (Q1-Q3)
1 BC337 45V 800mA NPN transistor, TO-92 (Q4)
1 1N5819 40V 1A schottky diode (D1)
Capacitors
1 470μF 10V radial electrolytic
1 100μF 10V ±5% tantalum [Vishay Sprague 293D107X5010D2TE3]
1 10μF 50V radial electrolytic
1 2.2μF 50V ±5% MKT [TDK B32529D0225J000]
1 100nF 50V ceramic or multi-layer ceramic
1 100nF 63/100V ±5% MKT [Altronics R3025B, Vishay BFC237012104]
Resistors (all ¼W 1% axial)
1 1MW
1 27kW
1 22kW
1 15kW
1 12kW
10 10kW
1 4.7kW
1 1kW
1 270W
1 33W
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
Parts List – Digital Capacitance Meter
January 2025 31
You can then plug everything into
the headers on the PCB, using Fig.2 as
a reference, and screw the two banana
socket wires into the terminals of
CON1. Ensure the wire routing is correct for the 9V battery, OLED screen
and wires to CON1.
With IC1 out of its socket, switch on
power and check the voltage between
pins 5 and 14 of that socket. You
should get a reading between 4.5V
and 5.5V. If not, switch off and check
for faults.
Assuming it’s close to 5V, switch off
and insert IC1 in its socket, ensuring
it has the correct orientation and that
none of the leads fold up under the
body when you do so.
If IC1 has not been programmed,
you can now power the device back
on and connect an in-circuit programmer to CON4, with its pin 1 marking
to the left as shown. Use software like
Microchip’s free MPLAB IPE to load
the HEX file, which you can download from siliconchip.au/Shop/6/532
You can then switch it back on and
check that the screen display comes
up normally. If so, you can proceed
with calibration. Otherwise, power it
off and check your soldering and parts
placement.
Calibration
To initially calibrate the
meter, set the voltage
at test point
TP1 (IC1’s negative comparator input
voltage) to 3.16V by adjusting trimpot
VR4. There is no ground test point;
you could use negative (bottom) terminal of CON1.
Next, for each range in turn, make
repeated capacitance measurements of
a calibration capacitor of known value
while adjusting the selected range
trimpot (VR1-VR3) to progressively
obtain a calibrated value very close
to the known capacitances.
The parts list includes suggestions
of three low-cost 5% tolerance capacitors that could be used, although
sourcing the larger values may not be
easy (DigiKey and Mouser have suitable parts).
Cycle through the ranges and adjust
each to get the correct measurement
until you are only making minimal
adjustments.
In operation, once the measurement
and calculation of the capacitance
is completed, the MCU displays the
value on the OLED in units of either
pF, nF or µF depending on the range
selected and size of the capacitor
under test. If the measured value is out
of range, a warning is shown to select
a higher or lower range if possible.
Also, before any measurement of
Cx commences, the MCU checks the
battery voltage and a warning message
appears if it is low. If the voltage is too
low (less than about 7V), a message
to replace the battery is displayed
and measurement stops.
Conclusion
Having built, tested and
calibrated my meter, I
decided to check
my stock of
electrolytic
capacitors.
32
Silicon Chip
The finished Digital Capacitance
Meter with crocodile clips attached
(shown below). Our version of the
front panel label (shown here at
50% actual size) will be available
to download from our website at
siliconchip.com.au/Shop/11/585
I found some relatively new, unused
electrolytic capacitors with values
nowhere near their labelled value and
not within the specified tolerance. In
fact, I would say these capacitors had
been incorrectly labelled or manufactured, as they were that far out!
This was rather concerning as these
components had been sourced from
reputable suppliers. Buyer beware,
as they say!
I built the Touchscreen Wide-Range
RCL Box (June 2020; siliconchip.au/
Series/345) a few years ago now. I’ve
found it to be a very handy device.
When I first built it, I thoroughly
checked all the resistance values and
found these to be well within the ±1%
tolerance, which was great. However,
I did not check the C and L values.
So, out of interest, I decided to do
a quick check on the capacitance values with my new meter. Surprisingly,
I found two capacitors well outside
(>30%) the ±10% tolerance I was
expecting, even though I’m sure I had
purchased SMD capacitors with specified tolerances of ±10% or better. I
also performed a check with a DMM
on capacitance range and got very similar results.
I’m now waiting on a rainy day to
do some further diagnostics on the
RCL box.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
Part 2: by Nicholas Vinen
Complete Kit (SC6885; $70): includes the case but not a power supply
Compact HiFi
headphone Amplifier
Introduced last month, our new Stereo Headphone
Amplifier fits in a neat package and has two sets of inputs with
individual volume controls. Having described its performance and how it works, we’ll go over some
notes on the PCB design before getting into construction and testing.
T
he Headphone Amplifier circuit is fairly
basic and uses all low-cost and
common parts, but it delivers great
performance in a small package. It’s
suitable for relative beginners, with
nothing being terribly tricky during
the assembly process. Despite that, it
still gives a very professional result.
PCBs for hifi circuits are always a
bit challenging to design due to the
tiny levels of distortion and interference that are required to achieve good
performance. So let’s take a brief look
at what was involved in designing
this one.
PCB design
It was a little tricky to fit everything
into a relatively small (148 × 80mm)
PCB using through-hole components,
but we managed that, and the result
is shown in Fig.8 and the photos. The
power supply section has been kept on
the left side, with the input section
in the middle and the amplifier section on the right.
The incoming signals arrive at
the RCA connectors at the top of
the board, flow down through
the filtering and coupling components to the buffer op amps
at lower middle, then to the
volume control pots. They go
to the mixer op amp to the right,
and up to the transistor buffer section above, then right to the output
filter and down to the output sockets.
This arrangement keeps all the signal tracks relatively short, to minimise
siliconchip.com.au
the chance of picking up EMI or magnetic/electric fields from other parts of
the PCB. It also keeps the component
arrangement neat.
As power needs to flow from the
supply on the left side to the transistors at upper right, the positive and
negative supply tracks are kept fairly
wide and close together so that the
magnetic loop is small. That reduces
the amount of supply-ripple-induced
distortion entering the sensitive signal tracks in the middle of the PCB.
The output transistors have local
100μF bypass capacitors (shared
between
the channels) to help reduce the effect
of the resistance and inductance of
those supply tracks. All major ground
returns are kept separate back to the
power supply common point (similar
to star Earthing) so that half-wave rectified currents don’t get into the signal
grounds and increase distortion.
If you’re wondering why only the
NPN output transistors have small
heatsinks attached, it definitely isn’t
because we didn’t check whether
there would be enough room for all
four heatsinks to fit side-by-side on
the PCB!
Actually, during testing we found
that even with reasonably high quiescent currents, the output
transistors didn’t get terribly warm.
Four resistors were
added between VR1 & VR2 in the final version.
Australia's electronics magazine
January 2025 33
Still, as there was room to fit small
heatsinks to the NPN output transistors (Q3 & Q5), we did so. That’s
because these transistors have the Vbe
multipliers (Q7 & Q8) mounted on top,
so they won’t be able to dissipate heat
as effectively as the PNP output transistors (Q4 & Q6) will.
Also, the PCB is designed to draw
heat away from all the transistors that
are mounted on it (including those
in the power supply). However, as
the PCB’s ability to absorb, distribute
and radiate heat is limited, we figured
that by keeping Q3 & Q5 cooler with
small heatsinks, that will reduce the
total heat load on the board and thus
effectively improve cooling for Q4 &
Q6 as well.
The heatsinks are actually sandwiched between each NPN output
transistor and its associated Vbe multiplier transistor, with thermal paste
in between. As the thermal resistance
of the heatsink is low, that shouldn’t
have any significant impact on thermal tracking for the Vbe multipliers.
While we’re on the topic of output transistor ratings, we also need to
keep in mind their continuous current
limits of 1.5A each, especially during
plugging and unplugging headphones.
The output transistors have an hFE
(current gain) of around 50 times at
their limit of 1.5A, regardless of the
junction temperature.
That means, to exceed their 1.5A
current limit would require a base
drive of over 30mA (1.5A ÷ 50). While
the NE5532 data sheet says it can typically source or sink 38mA, that’s with
a ±15V supply and under short-circuit
conditions.
In practice, due to supply droop and
other factors, with our recommended
9V AC plugpack, we were unable to
get our prototype to get anywhere near
the limit. Having said that, we didn’t
deliberately short-circuit the output,
so we can’t promise it’s short-circuit
proof. But we think, if you are careful
not to abuse it, it should be OK.
Construction
The Headphone Amplifier is built on
a double-sided PCB coded 01103241
that measures 148 × 82mm. The same
PCB is used regardless of which version you are building. Fig.8 is the component overlay diagram that includes
all components for building the full
version of the Amplifier, with two sets
of stereo inputs.
Fig.9 shows the same arrangement
as Fig.8 but without the two buffer op
amps. If you’re building it from a kit,
you might as well build the full version as they are included, but it is possible to leave those two op amps out
and save a few dollars. There will be
more interaction between the volume
controls, though.
Fig.10 shows the PCB with just the
components needed for one stereo
input. We’ve chosen to retain CON2,
but you could keep CON3 instead and
fit the resistors, capacitors and potentiometers in the positions to the right
instead.
Regardless of which version you’re
building, start by fitting all the smaller
(¼W and ½W) resistors. They have
colour-coded stripes that you can
decode with the aid of the table in the
parts list. Still it’s safer to check each
set’s value with a DMM set to measure
ohms before installing them.
All the smaller resistors are laid flat
on the PCB, so bend their leads, insert
them, solder them and trim the excess.
For the four 100W resistors, slip a ferrite bead over one of the leads before
inserting it into the board. Solder the
shorter end, then pull the other lead
with a pair of pliers so it’s tight before
soldering it. That should stop the ferrite bead from rattling if you move
the board.
Next, solder the two diodes, which
are the same type. Make sure that both
have their cathode stripes facing up,
towards Q2.
If using IC sockets, solder them
in place now, ensuring the notches
all face up as shown on the overlay
diagrams. Otherwise, solder the ICs
directly to the PCB, again ensuring
that their notch or pin 1 dot faces up.
Fig.8: use this
overlay diagram as
a guide to where
to mount each
component. This
shows the full
version with two
buffered stereo
inputs. Don’t
forget to add the
ferrite beads to
the 100W resistors
before soldering
them and watch
the orientation
of the diodes, ICs
and electrolytic
capacitors.
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Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
This is important as they won’t work
if reversed!
Now is a good time to fit CON4 if you
are using it. Once its pins are lined up
with the pads, it should slot right into
place. Solder it flat on the PCB.
Next mount transistors Q2, Q4 & Q6.
These are all the TTA004B PNP type.
Make sure the writing is on the top
side, then bend the leads down a few
millimetres from their bodies so that
they fit through the PCB pads while
the mounting hole on the tab lines up
with the one on the board.
Add a small amount of thermal
paste to the underside of each transistor, then feed a 10mm M3 machine
screw up from underneath and push
the transistor body over its shaft. Add
a flat washer and hex nut on top and
tighten while stopping the transistor
body from rotating. Check the body
is aligned properly, then solder and
trim the leads.
Use the same procedure to fit Q1,
which is a TTC004B. Leave the other
transistors off for now.
Next, mount the two trimpots. They
are the same type and only fit one
way. Then move on to the capacitors,
starting with the ceramics, which are
not polarised, so they can go in either
way around.
Two of the 100nF capacitors are recommended to be MKT types; fit them
next. They are also unpolarised. The
The output filter inductors are wound on the bodies of the 1W resistors they’re
paralleled with. You could add heatshrink tubing on top if you want.
other 100nF capacitors can be MKT,
ceramic or multi-layer ceramic, none
of which are polarised.
Then move on to the electrolytic
capacitors, all of which are polarised.
In each case, the longer lead goes into
the pad next to the + symbol, with
the stripe on the can facing the opposite way. The only thing to watch out
here, apart from the polarity and the
values being correct, is that there are
three different types of 100μF capacitors specified.
The four or eight capacitors marked
50V (in the middle of the board)
should ideally be 50V types, to make
the inputs as robust as possible. They
could be lower-rated (eg, 35V) if absolutely necessary. The two low-ESR
100μF capacitors in the power supply
section and two more at upper-right
must be rated at least 25V, although
higher-voltage types are suitable if
they will fit.
The two or four 100μF capacitors
near VR1/VR2 can be 16V types,
Fig.9: here are
the difference if
you’re building the
two-input version
without the buffer
op amps. Fit the
four links instead
of the ICs and leave
off the four 100kW
resistors.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
January 2025 35
although a higher rating certainly
won’t hurt, as long as they will fit.
Now is a good time to solder the
two-pin header for JP1 in place. After
that, fit VR1 and/or VR2, making sure
they are pushed fully down and their
shafts are perpendicular to the edge
of the PCB. Also fit the barrel socket,
again making sure it is straight and
flat before using generous amounts of
solder to attach it.
The RCA sockets need the projection
on the top cut off. It’s easiest to do it
before mounting them on the board.
Use a hacksaw or rotary tool to cut
them off in line with the top edge of
the socket face, then file or sand off
any burrs or projections. Snap them
into the PCB and make sure they’re
flat before soldering the pins.
Similarly, mount the on/off switch
next. The LED goes next to the switch,
with its lens at the same height as the
switch shaft. Bend its leads by 90°
about 3mm from the band of the lens,
ensuring that when it’s inserted into
the PCB, its longer (anode) lead will
be to the right, as shown in the overlay diagrams. Insert and solder it so
that its lens is at the same height as
the switch and pot shafts.
M3 machine screws. This bit can
get a little fiddly and messy, so keep
a damp cloth on hand, along with
needle-nose pliers and angled tweezers. The mounting arrangement is
depicted in Fig.11.
First, bend the leads of all four transistors down so that they will fit into
the PCB pads with the tab mounting
hole in the correct position and the
writing on the top. Make sure they can
be inserted easily and that the tab hole
is properly aligned, as that will make
the rest of the job much easier.
Insert a machine screw up through
the bottom side of the PCB, then add
a thin layer of thermal paste on both
sides of one of the transistors. This
will be Q3. Insert its leads and push it
most of the way down to the PCB, then
add a heatsink over the top, with the
longer section projecting to the right
(over Q3’s leads).
Next, add thermal paste to the bottom side (only) of another transistor
and add it on top of the heatsink (Q7).
Place a flat washer over the screw shaft,
then do up a nut on top. Hold the transistor bodies steady as you tighten the
nut, then solder and trim all six leads.
Repeat for the other transistor pair.
Heatsinks
Winding the inductors
All four remaining transistors are
TTC004Bs, and they are held to the
board using 15mm or 16mm long
We used 0.4mm diameter enamelled copper wire (ECW) to wind the
inductors, although you could use
a smaller diameter (down to about
0.25mm) if you happen to already
have it. Cut it into two 1m lengths,
then use a sharp hobby knife or emery
paper to strip the insulation off the
ends by 2-3mm.
The inductors are wound using
the bodies of the 10W 1W resistors
as formers. Clamp a resistor in some
sort of holder (we used the type that
has mini grabbers), then add some
solder to the leads on either end of
the body. Solder one end of the ECW
to that point, with the rest going past
the body, then start winding it around
the body.
Try to keep it neat and closely
spaced at first, although it’s basically
impossible to keep it neat after the
first layer. The good news is that there
aren’t a huge number of turns required,
so it hopefully won’t end up a jumbled mess by the time you have finished. Keep it wound tightly around
the body, then solder the remaining
stub close to the other end of the resistor body.
Use a DMM to measure the resistance across the resistor. It should have
dropped to around 0.2W (depending on
your DMM lead resistance). If it’s close
to 10W, that suggests the solder joint
at one end (or both) is bad, so fix it.
Repeat for the other resistor, then
bend the leads, insert them into
the PCB and solder them at similar
Fig.10: if building
the single-channel
version, you can
leave off either
channel; here we’re
showing CON2 fitted
and CON3 not. Only
one IC needs to be
linked out in this
case. In place of the
two 1MW resistors,
use 100kW instead.
36
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
heights. There’s no significant dissipation in these devices, but it’s easier
to solder them spaced off the PCB, so
you might as well.
Finally, if you’re using the 6.35mm
jack socket, CON5, solder it now. It will
need to be a low-profile version to fit
in the case. Jaycar’s PS0190 is unfortunately too tall, but many others like
it sit lower. There are several suitable
parts available from Altronics. Push it
down fully and solder it in place using
generous amounts of solder for good
mechanical retention.
Testing
Adjust VR3 & VR4 fully anti-clockwise and ensure switch S1 is in the
up (off) position. Plug in the plugpack
and switch it on at the mains. Nothing
should happen since the switch is off.
Set your DMM to alternating current (AC) measurement mode (not
DC!) in the amps range and connect
the probes appropriately. Hold one
against switch S1’s pad that’s closest
to the large capacitor (ie, the one at the
back & top). While watching the multimeter, touch the other to the middle
pad for S1 for a second or two.
If you’ve used IC sockets and the
chips are not inserted, you should see
a current draw of only a few tens of
milliamps at most, and LED1 should
light up. If all three op amps are soldered to the board, the current draw
will be closer to 150mA. If you have
fewer op amps installed, it will be in
between (~50mA for one and ~100mA
for two).
If the current draw is a lot higher
than that, or LED1 doesn’t light up,
you have a problem. Disconnect the
power supply and check the board for
faults like pads bridged with solder,
incorrectly orientated components,
components in the wrong location etc.
If it seems OK, set your DMM to
measure DC volts and hold the black
probe to a convenient ground point,
such as the left-most pin of JP1 or the
bottom-most end (closest to the PCB
edge) of one of the row of four 100kW
resistors between VR1 & VR2. Hold the
red probe on pin 8 of one of the ICs
and switch the power back on.
You should get a steady DC voltage
reading of around 13V DC for a 9V
plugpack or 17V for a 12V plugpack.
Then touch the red probe to pin 4 of
the same IC, and you should get a negative voltage of a similar magnitude.
Next, check the AC voltages at those
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two pins. The reading should be no
more than about 10mV AC (our prototype measured almost exactly 10mV
with the ICs in-circuit).
If you are using IC sockets and haven’t inserted them yet, switch off the
power and wait for LED1 to extinguish. Install all the ICs you require,
ensuring that pin 1 goes towards the
upper-left corner, near the notches on
the sockets.
Now measure the DC output voltages relative to ground. They are
available at the bottom ends of the
two 10W 1W resistors that have the
ECW wrapped around them. Measure
those points relative to ground with
the power on (see earlier for convenient ground points) and confirm that
the readings are under 50mV (with
either polarity). Our prototype measured around -25mV on both channels.
If they are much higher than that,
something is wrong, so switch off and
search for faults. Rectify any problems
you find and re-check the output voltages to verify they are under ±50mV
before proceeding.
Adjustment
Connect a DMM set to measure
millivolts between TP1 and TP2. The
reading should be close to zero initially. Slowly rotate VR3 clockwise
and by the time it reaches its midpoint,
the voltage reading should start to rise.
Adjust it for a reading close to 25mV
(meaning 25mA quiescent current).
Move the probes to TP1 & TP3 and the
reading should be similar.
Now connect the probes between
TP4 & TP5 and perform the same
adjustment using VR4. You can then
check that the reading is similar
between TP4 & TP6.
At this point, you are ready for
a listening testing. Switch off the
power, rotate VR1 and VR2 fully
Fig.11: the mounting arrangements for
the power transistors and heatsinks.
anti-clockwise and plug headphones
or earphones into one of the sockets.
Don’t put them over or onto your ears
yet. Connect a low-level stereo audio
signal source to one of the inputs, cue
it up and switch the amplifier back on.
Slowly wind up the volume pot
associated with the channel you’re
using (VR1 for CON2 or VR2 for CON3)
and check that you can hear audio by
moving the headphones/earphones
closer to your ears. If it sounds normal, try putting them over/into your
ears and adjust the volume to a comfortable level. Verify that the audio
sounds normal and undistorted, with
similar levels for both channels.
If it sounds strange, switch off and
look for faults on the PCB.
Jumper option
Before assembling the case, decide
if you want to put a jumper shunt on
JP1. With it out, if you plug headphones into both sockets, audio will
only come from CON5 (CON4 will be
disconnected). With it in place, the
headphones will be connected in parallel and both will get audio (but possibly not at the same volume!).
A close-up photo of the way the heatsinks are fitted. This is from the opposite
side to that shown in Fig.11.
Australia's electronics magazine
January 2025 37
If you’ve only fitted CON5, it doesn’t
matter if you put a jumper on JP1. If
you’ve only fitted CON4, you must add
the jumper, or it won’t work.
While CON4’s ground is disconnected without JP1 if a plug is inserted
in CON5, due to the way headphones
are wired, you might still get some
sound out of headphones still plugged
into CON4. It’s unlikely to be anywhere near full volume, though. If
it bothers you, simply unplug the
unused pair.
Case preparation &
installation
Preparing the case is relatively
straightforward: all the holes to be
made are in the front and rear panels,
and they are all round, so you can use
a drill (a stepped drill bit makes it easier). The locations are shown in Fig.12.
There are six holes to make in the front
panel and five at the rear, from 3mm
to 10mm in diameter.
You can download a PDF of Fig.12
from siliconchip.au/Shop/19/7406,
print it out at actual size, cut it out
and stick it to the panels using weak
glue or scotch tape. Drill small pilot
holes as accurately as you can in the
centre of each location, then remove
the templates and drill them out to the
sizes shown.
Deburr the holes and check that
the panels fit over the assembled PCB
in the case. You may need to slightly
enlarge some holes if their locations
are not perfect.
The bottom of the case can be identified as it has four small circular
recesses for feet. Stick small rubber
feet in or near those locations, then
secure the PCB to the base using four
small self-tapping screws. Remove the
nuts from the jack sockets, slot the lid
on top, then push the front and rear
panels in place. After that, you can
attach the knobs.
Our initial prototype was designed
with the potentiometer and socket
shafts essentially being flush with the
front panel, so we couldn’t reattach
their nuts. We didn’t think that was a
problem as it seemed robust enough
without them.
Still, we made some adjustments to
the final PCB so that the on/off switch,
volume control pots and 3.5mm jack
socket are closer to the front. That
means you should be able to get the
nuts back on the pots, which will provide a bit of extra rigidity, and it will
make plugging into the 3.5mm socket
easier, although you probably won’t
be able to get its nut on.
We have kept the front of the
6.35mm socket close to being flush
with the front panel as we think it’s
neater, and it’s mechanically secure
enough without it.
Using it
It’s generally a good idea to wind
VR1 & VR2 back to zero (or close to it)
before playing audio if you don’t know
if the levels set previously are appropriate. Then slowly advance the volume
control associated with the input (VR1
for CON2 & VR2 for CON3) until you
reach a comfortable volume level.
It’s best to avoid ‘live plugging’
headphones as they can short the outputs when doing so. It will probably be
OK, but it’s safer to switch the device
off before plugging or unplugging.
We also suggest you remove the
headphones/earphones when switching the amp on or off to avoid any
painful clicks or pops that may occur.
This will also protect you in case you
switch it on and the volume level is
set too high.
The amp draws no power when
switched off, although AC plugpack
will draw some power from the mains
even when it has no load. So if you
want to minimise power consumption when the amp is off, switch off
the plugpack at the wall or unplug it
when not in use.
If you ever have to get the case
apart again, it’s a bit tricky but it can
be done. Remove the knobs and nuts,
then detach the front panel on the
switch side. The rear panel is almost
impossible to remove once assembled
as the RCA sockets prevent you from
flexing it in such a way to release the
tabs, so don’t try.
Once you have the front panel off
on one side, pull at the bottom on the
jack socket side and squeeze the main
part of the case in, and it should pop
off. You can then gently lever the top
off and pull it forwards to release the
SC
rear panel.
Fig.12: the front (top) and rear (bottom) panel drilling details. Depending on how accurately you drill the holes, you may
need to enlarge some slightly before the panels will snap into place. It’s best to start them all small and then increase them
by a couple of millimetres at a time until they’re at full size. If building a single-channel version, only drill the two 9mm
holes corresponding to the RCA sockets you have fitted (and the same for the 7.5mm potentiometer holes at the front).
38
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
CIRCUIT NOTEBOOK
Interesting circuit ideas which we have checked but not built and tested. Contributions will be paid for at
standard rates. All submissions should include full name, address & phone number.
Programmable current indicator add-on for USB power banks
USB power banks are not just useful
for charging mobile phones; they are a
handy way to power all manner of 5V
devices, including when prototyping.
Many power banks have a few LEDs as
a simple charging state indicator. Others contain small LCD screens that display the charging state as a percentage.
However, very few include a voltage
indicator, and even fewer offer a current indicator.
For those who experiment with
electronic circuits, adding a simple
current indicator to the power bank
can be very helpful. This circuit combines a pre-made 10-LED bar graph
with an 8-pin PIC microcontroller to
create a simple dot/bar graph current
indicator.
There are already some specialised
ICs that do this, but most of them are
now becoming difficult to find. The
microcontroller is inexpensive and
can do a similar job.
It can be a more cost-effective solution that provides better power efficiency, as well as the ability to update
or modify the software without changing the hardware.
The PIC12F1822 8-bit microcontroller is powered by a 3V micropower low-dropout (LDO) linear voltage
siliconchip.com.au
regulator; the MCP1700-30 has a quiescent (idle) current of just 1.6μA.
This circuit relies on the supply not
exceeding 3V because in both dot and
bar modes, only one LED is driven at
a time, with a minimum amount of
current in short bursts, for energy saving reasons.
If the supply exceeded 3V, two LEDs
could be lit simultaneously (most
likely including one of the red LEDs,
as they can have a forward voltage as
low as 1.65V).
To drive the LEDs, We use a
method called Charlieplexing that we
described in an article on that topic in
the September 2010 issue (siliconchip.
au/Article/287). It allows us to drive
up to 12 LEDs with only four GPIOs
pins; in this case, RA0, RA1, RA4 and
RA5. Four 56W current-limiting resistors are used.
Pushbutton S1 allows the user to
switch between a dot and bar display. In dot mode, the PIC runs at just
31kHz for the lowest possible power
consumption. In bar mode, it has to
run faster, at 4MHz. That’s necessary
for fast enough LED multiplexing to
avoid noticeable flicker.
To measure the load current, a
simple low-value shunt resistor is
Australia's electronics magazine
connected in series with the load’s
ground connection. As a result, 0-0.1V
is fed to the AN2 analog input of IC1.
It measures that voltage as a proportion of its internal 2.048V reference
voltage. This measurement, performed
by a 10-bit ADC with 1024 steps (210),
gives a resolution of 2mV.
That corresponds to a current resolution of 20mA. The software is written to measure currents up to 1A. An
optional (but useful) piezo alarm circuit is also shown, which will alert the
user when the load current exceeds
1A. If you don’t need it, omit Q1, PB1
and L1. The software is available to
download from siliconchip.com.au/
Shop/6/603
Mohammed Salim Benabadji,
Oran, Algeria. ($90)
Circuit Ideas Wanted
Got an interesting original circuit
that you have cleverly devised? We
can pay you by electronic funds
transfer, credit or direct to your
PayPal account. Or you can use
the funds to purchase anything
from the Silicon Chip Online Store.
Email your circuit and descriptive
text to editor<at>siliconchip.com.au
January 2025 39
LED Voltmeter/Ammeter, measuring from 3.3V to 30V
The heart of this voltmeter/ammeter
is the STC15W408AS microcontroller.
It has a 10-bit analog-to-digital converter (ADC) with eight channels. It
does not need a crystal to run and can
be programmed using the STC Windows application and a USB-to-serial
bridge like the CP2102.
The voltage is measured using a
voltage divider. With an input of 30V,
40
Silicon Chip
the output of the voltage divider is 5V.
The current is measured using an
Allegro ACS712 5A Hall effect current sensor. It produces a 2.5V output when there is no current flow,
increasing by 185mV per amp. To get
the current reading, after converting
the 0-5V output to a value between 0
and 1023, 512 is subtracted to remove
the 2.5V offset.
Australia's electronics magazine
IC2 shows the voltage and current
readings on two four-digit, seven-
segment displays.
The voltage for the common anodes
is applied using one 2N3906 PNP transistor for each with 1kW series resistors to limit the base current and 5.1kW
resistors to switch off the transistor
when the corresponding microcontroller output pin is high. The cathodes
siliconchip.com.au
are driven directly by microcontroller pins.
An MC34063-based buck/boost
converter is used to power the circuit. It can operate from 3.3V to 30V.
The 1kW/330W divider configures it to
produce a 5V DC output. The seven-
segment display anodes need 2.5V,
so VLED is derived using an LM317
adjustable linear regulator.
The voltmeter/ammeter can measure down to 3.3V, but the buck/boost
siliconchip.com.au
regulator has the lowest efficiency at
this voltage, so ideally, the lowest voltage should be 4V.
To program the STC15W408AS, use
the STC Windows program (version
6.88E recommended: www.stcmicro.
com/rjxz.html). First, connect a USBto-serial bridge to the microcontroller’s serial port. Disconnect power to
the board, click Check MCU, then connect the power.
To download the code, click on
File, then Open Code
File. Navigate to the
hex file and click on
Open. Disconnect the
power from the board,
click on Download
Program, then connect
the power.
The seven-segment
LEDs connected to
the serial port pins
will not affect programming the microcontroller since the
anodes of the seven-
segment display will
not be driven during
that process.
The bootloader
inside the microcontroller checks for the
proper data from the
STC software. If there
is no data from the
serial port after some
time, the microcontroller runs its firmware.
I have produced a
PCB design for this,
available to download
as Gerber files, along
with the firmware,
from siliconchip.au/
Shop/6/458
My PCB is quite
big because it is a
prototype; a smaller
double-sided version
could be designed.
REG1’s internal reference could be 1.21.3V, so the two equal
external resistors will
give an output of 2.42.6V but the exact
voltage is not critical.
Noel A. Rios,
Manila,
Philippines ($90).
Australia's electronics magazine
Handbag light
I was asked to design a light for a
handbag that switches on when
the bag is opened. They suggested that common magnetic
press studs could function as a
switch, although a magnetic reed
switch could also be used. I came
up with this circuit; the key is to
minimise the standing current
despite the switch being ‘backwards’, ie, closed when we want
the light to be off and open when
it should be on.
A Darlington NPN transistor
(KSP13) controls an ultra-bright
white LED (Jaycar ZD0290). The
published minimum current gain
for the transistor at 10mA is 5000
but I have measured typical values of about 25,000. With a 10MW
base resistor and a 9V battery,
the standby current will be about
0.9μA.
I found that sufficient to drive
the transistor close to saturation,
generating a maximum current of
about 13mA through the LED, adequate to light up the interior of a
handbag. When the magnetic press
stud is closed, the quiescent current of 0.9μA will have a negligible effect on battery life.
I built the circuit on the back of
a pin-on brooch from an opportunity shop, using old-fashioned
point-to-point wiring. However,
a simple PCB could also be used.
My female friends have received
the prototype with enthusiasm.
James Goding,
Princes Hill, Vic. ($40)
Editor’s note: a Mosfet like the
2N7000 could be used instead of
the KSP13 to eliminate the base
current and any concern about
the transistor’s gain. However, it
might be more easily damaged by
static electricity.
January 2025 41
Precision
Electronics
Part 3: difference & instrumentation amplifiers
In this third article in this series, we will further develop our precision current
measuring circuit. We will consider how to sense the current if the shunt was in the
positive line instead of referenced to circuit ground.
By Andrew Levido
Y
ou will recall that previously, we
sensed a 0 to 1A current using a
100mW resistor, one side of which
was connected to circuit ground. We
amplified the resulting voltage by a
factor of around 25 to get a ground-
referenced signal of about 2.5V fullscale, which we could apply to an
analog-to-digital converter (ADC) to
make the measurement.
We are assuming there is a microcontroller in the circuit that can trim
out much of the fixed offset and gain
error, leaving us with a trimmed precision of around ±0.04% at 25°C with
about ±0.075% additional error over
the 0–50°C operating temperature
range. We deemed this overall precision of just over 0.1% ‘good enough’
for our purposes.
In practice, we often want to sense
the current in the positive leg of the
circuit, as shown in Fig.1. The reason
is that it is possible (sometimes even
unavoidable) that the grounds of both
the source and the load are connected
to a common potential, such as mains
Earth.
If this were to happen with the original circuit, the sense resistor would
be shorted out, so measuring the current would be impossible.
Moving the shunt resistor to the
positive line solves that problem but
introduces another. One terminal
of the resistor is sitting at the load’s
positive supply voltage (up to 20V in
our example), while the other is up
to 100mV higher, depending on the
current through it. We are interested
in amplifying only the difference in
voltage between these two points, not
the much larger voltage on which it
is floating.
We also want the resulting amplified signal to be referenced to circuit
ground so it’s within the ADC’s range,
and so we don’t need to use a differential ADC to measure it.
Fig.1: to measure current with a
sense resistor in the positive line,
we need to extract the relatively
small differential signal from the
larger common-mode signal.
Fig.2: to achieve what we need in
Fig.1, the “Signal Conditioning” box
needs to amplify Vdm with a high gain
(Gdm) but minimise the contribution of
Vcm, meaning Gcm should be kept low.
42
Silicon Chip
Differential and common
mode signals
In cases like this where we have two
sense terminals, we refer to the voltage
between them as the differential-mode
voltage (Vdm) and the voltage at the terminals with respect to ground as the
common-mode voltage (Vcm). This is
shown diagrammatically in Fig.2.
The differential voltage of interest
(Vdm) is ‘riding on’ the common-mode
voltage (Vcm) that we want to ignore.
For ground-referenced signals, the
common-mode voltage is zero (in an
ideal world, anyway).
The output of the generalised conditioning circuit block will be a voltage that is the sum of the differential-
mode input (Vdm) multiplied by a
differential-
mode gain (Gdm), along
Australia's electronics magazine
with the common-mode input (Vcm)
multiplied by the common-mode gain
(Gcm). We usually want Gcm to be zero
(or as close to it as we can practically
get) so that the unwanted common-
mode voltage is rejected.
We describe the degree to which a
circuit like this rejects common mode
signals as the common-mode rejection
ratio (CMRR). This is the ratio of the
differential-mode gain to the common-
mode gain (Gdm ÷ Gcm) and is usually
expressed in decibels, calculated as
20log10(Gdm ÷ Gcm).
You have probably guessed by now
that any hope of perfectly rejecting
common-mode signals (ie, achieving
an infinite CMRR) is just a pipe dream.
The harsh reality of electronics design
means we always have to put up with
something less than perfection.
Difference amplifiers
One of the most common ways to
amplify a small differential signal riding on a large common-mode voltage is
to use a difference amplifier like that
shown in Fig.3.
Two pairs of matched resistors (R1a
= R1b & R2a = R2b) and an op amp form
an amplifier with some very interesting characteristics.
This general form of difference
amplifier (with separate sense and
reference terminals) is a very flexible
Fig.3: the classic difference amplifier
using an op amp and four resistors
is a very useful and flexible circuit.
Usually, the value of R1a is the same
as R1b and R2a the same as R2b.
siliconchip.com.au
circuit that can be used to implement
a wide variety of functions, as shown
in Fig.4.
All those circuits use a difference
amplifier with unity gain (R1a = R1b
= R2a = R2b).
The terms “difference amplifier”
and “differential amplifier” are often
used interchangeably. I am using the
former term to describe any amplifier
in which the output is proportional
to the difference between the input
voltages.
Some sources use “differential
amplifier” as the general term and
“difference amplifier” to describe
the specific configuration where the
differential-mode gain is equal to one
(eg, siliconchip.au/link/ac1h).
To add to the confusion, the terms
“differential amplifier” and “fully differential amplifier” are both used to
describe op amps with complimentary
positive and negative outputs. These
are specialised devices are normally
used to drive high-speed twisted pairs
or differential input ADCs
Getting back to the device itself, connecting the sense terminal of a difference amplifier to the output and the
reference terminal to ground produces
the familiar configuration illustrated
in Fig.5. This has a differential-mode
gain of Gdm = R2 ÷ R1 (where R1 = R1a
= R1b and R2 = R2a = R2b).
The common-mode gain of the difference amplifier would be zero if
the op amp was ideal and the resistor
matching was perfect. If you build a
difference amp with a typical op amp
with an open loop gain of 100,000 and
1% resistors, the CMRR would be in
the region of 34dB.
This means you would see about
1/50th of the common-mode voltage
at the output. That would equate to
400mV in our example, almost half
of the differential-mode signal we are
interested in!
We can do better with matched resistors. For example, using the ACASA
range of resistor arrays we used last
time (matched to within 0.05%), we
would have a CMRR in the order of
60dB. That still means we would see a
common-mode voltage of up to 20mV
at the output, which is clearly not good
enough for our application.
You can buy integrated difference amplifiers with on-board lasertrimmed resistors that have CMRR
values in the 80-100dB range at modest cost. If we used one of these, say
with a CMRR of 90dB, the common-
mode voltage at the output would
be just 632µV. That is pretty good,
but it still represents a 0.025% error,
which will have to be added to the
other errors.
There is a bigger problem, however.
Off-the-shelf difference amplifiers are
typically only available with gains up
to about 10, with most having a gain
of just one or two (we will see why a
little later).
Another limitation of difference
amplifiers is their relatively low input
impedance, typically in the range
of 10-500kW. That is not much of a
problem with a very low impedance
source such as our 100mW shunt, but
it becomes more of a concern as the
source impedance rises.
You can see from Fig.5 that any
source impedance will be in series
with the difference amplifier’s input
resistors R1a and R1b, potentially
impacting both the gain and CMRR.
A good rule of thumb is to make
sure the source impedance is lower
than the input impedance of the difference amplifier by the same order
of magnitude as the CMRR. So, for
a difference amplifier with a 90dB
CMRR and 10kW input resistors, the
source impedance should be less than
316mW. Any higher than that and the
CMRR will be adversely impacted.
Fig.5: this configuration delivers
a ground-referenced voltage
proportional to the difference
between the input voltages; Vout =
(R2 ÷ R1) × (Vin+ – Vin–).
In fact, the data sheets generally
specify CMRR with an input source
impedance of 0W. That is obviously
a totally unrealistic scenario – yet
another reason to be wary of data
sheet claims.
You might think that the CMRR
would be maintained if you had equal
source impedances on each input,
since both input resistors would be
increased by the same amount, but
no such luck. The manufacturer’s
laser-trimming matches the R1/R2
ratios in each divider, not necessarily
their absolute values, which may be
a bit different.
Adding the same source resistance
to both inputs will likely unbalance
the ratios, making the CMRR worse.
By now you might be asking why
we should even bother with difference amplifiers if they have all these
limitations. Apart from the flexibility
we have already seen, and their role
in instrumentation amplifiers that
we will discuss soon, the difference
amplifier excels in the area of input
common-mode voltage range.
With the right resistor values, the
common-mode voltage can extend
well beyond the op amp’s power supply rails. Off-the-shelf devices are
readily available with common mode
input ranges better than ±100V. I have
built discrete difference amps with
Fig.4: eight possible ways to use the Fig.3 circuit to achieve different gains, level-shift signals and even sum/average
voltages.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
January 2025 43
Table 1: error budget for Fig.8 using an INA821
At Nominal 25°C
Abs. Error
Error
Nominal Value
Shunt Resistor: RESI PCSR2512 (0.5%, 15ppm/˚C)
100mW
Differential Voltage due to I × Rshunt
100mV
0.5mV
InAmp: INA821 (Vos ±35µv, 5µV/˚C)
0mV
0.035mV
InAmp Input Voltage total (Line 2 + Line 3)
100mV
0.535mV
0.54%
0.1625mV
0.163%
InAmp Gain Resistor Rg: RN73C2A (0.1%, 10ppm/˚C)
2kW
2W
0.10%
0.5W
0.025%
InAmp Gain (Line 5 × Line 6)
25.7
0.0296
0.12%
0.0289
0.113%
Vout DM (Line 4 × Line 7)
2.57V
0.0167V
0.65%
0.0071V
0.275%
Vout CM (20V, 120db, ±1.5db over 0-50˚C)
0V
0.02mV
Vout (Line 8 + Line 9)
2.57V
0.0167V
Instrumentation amplifiers
One obvious solution to the difference amplifier’s input impedance
problem is to add a pair of unity-gain
input buffers in front of the input resistors, as shown in Fig.6. This solves
the input impedance problem (at the
expense of common mode voltage
range), but does nothing to help us
reach higher gains or achieve better
CMRR.
The classic three-op-amp instrumentation amplifier (or ‘inamp’)
shown in Fig.7 is a neat solution to
the problem. The two input op amps
now work to maintain the differential-
mode voltage across resistor Rg. With
this understanding, it is pretty easy to
show that this input stage has a differential mode gain of Gdm = 1 + 2 ×
(R3 ÷ Rg) and a common mode gain
of Gcm = 1.
We can see that with the right choice
of resistor values, this input stage can
improve the overall circuit’s differential gain but, given it has a common-
mode gain of one, it may not be as obvious how this front-end can improve
the overall CMRR.
Consider a situation where we want
an overall differential gain of 100 and
the highest possible CMRR. Imagine
the difference amplifier has a differential gain of 1 and a CMRR of 80dB. The
input stage will have a differential gain
of 100 and a common-mode gain of 1,
giving a CMRR of 40dB. The second
stage adds 80dB of additional CMRR
for a total circuit CMRR of 120dB.
The instrumentation amp is effectively a gain stage with a CMRR equal to
the gain, followed by a common-mode
rejection stage with a differential gain
Fig.7: the classic threeop amp instrumentation
amplifier consists of a
high impedance gain
stage made up of two
op amps followed by
a difference amplifier.
This can provide
both higher gain and
improved CMRR
compared to difference
amplifier alone.
Silicon Chip
0.50%
Australia's electronics magazine
Rel. Error
0.038%
0.0375mV
0.038%
0.125mV
0.02%
Fig.6: this circuit
fixes the low input
impedance exhibited
by difference amplifiers
but it limits the input
voltage range and does
not add gain.
44
Abs. Error
0.50%
InAmp Gain Error (0.015% ±35ppm/˚C)
common mode voltages up to ±300V
without problems (but a lot of care).
Rel. Error
0-50°C (Nominal ±25°C)
0.088%
0.0038mV
0.65%
0.0071V
0.275%
of unity or thereabouts. You can now
see why lots of the difference amps on
the market favour CMRR over gain –
they are intended for use in instrumentation amplifier applications.
Another nice feature of the instrumentation amp is that the gain can be
set by changing just one resistor, Rg.
This means practical devices can have
precision-trimmed matched resistors
R1a/b, R2a/b and R3a/b, leaving the
user to provide Rg externally to set
the gain. You can even switch in different resistors to change the gain or
use a potentiometer to trim it.
A typical example of an off-theshelf instrumentation amplifier is the
INA821 from Texas Instruments (TI).
The data sheets show it has a CMRR
of 112dB for Gdm = 10 and 132dB for
Gdm = 100. This suggests they are getting 92dB of CMRR from the difference
amp stage (and 20dB or 40dB from the
input stage).
The input impedance is 100GW,
which should be high enough for
pretty much any source impedance.
The cost of the INA821 is about $8.60
in single quantities, which is much
cheaper than anything you could build
yourself, given the very tight-tolerance
resistor matching required.
Let’s go through the process of
designing the circuit of Fig.8 to compare with the ground-referenced circuit we built last time. We will build
up the error budget shown in Table 1
as we go.
Fig.9 shows the internal configuration of the INA821. We need a gain
of around 25, so we will choose Rg to
be 2kW, giving a gain of 25.7. The tolerance of this resistor is not critical
since we’ll trim the gain, but we do
care about its tempco. For this reason,
I chose the RN73C2A2K0BTD from TE
siliconchip.com.au
Table 2: error budget for Fig.8 using an LT1167A instead
At Nominal 25°C
Abs. Error
Error
Nominal Value
Shunt Resistor: RESI PCSR2512 (0.5%, 15ppm/˚C)
100mW
Differential Voltage due to I × Rshunt
100mV
0.5mV
InAmp: LT1167A (Vos ±40µv, 0.2µV/˚C)
0mV
0.04mV
InAmp Input Voltage total (Line 2 + Line 3)
100mV
0.54mV
0.54%
0.0425mV
0.043%
InAmp Gain Resistor Rg: RN73C2A (0.1%, 10ppm/˚C)
2kW
2W
0.10%
0.5W
0.025%
InAmp Gain (Line 5 × Line 6)
25.7
0.0308
0.12%
0.0129
0.050%
Vout DM (Line 4 × Line 7)
2.57V
0.017V
0.66%
0.0024V
0.093%
Vout CM (20V, 106db over 0-50˚C)
0V
0.1002mV
Vout (Line 8 + Line 9)
2.57V
0.0171V
Fig.8: an off-the shelf
instrumentation amplifier
(‘inamp’) can provide the
necessary gain (about 25) with
around 120dB of common-mode
rejection.
siliconchip.com.au
Abs. Error
0.50%
InAmp Gain Error (0.02% ±10ppm/˚C)
Connectivity. It has a tolerance of 0.1%
and a tempco of ±10ppm/°C.
The INA821’s input common mode
voltage range extends to within 2V
of either supply rail, so we need a
power supply of 22V or more on the
positive side and -2V or more on the
negative side.
I am going to assume we have a
+24V DC supply available, since this
would be the sort of input the power
supply’s series pass stage would need.
I have already used ±5V power rails
in my previous experiments, so I will
power the instrumentation amplifier
from +24V and –5V rails.
The INA821 has a maximum power
supply voltage of 36V, so this should
be fine, with a total of 29V applied
(24V + 5V). It is worth noting that it is
quite OK to power op amps asymmetrically like this, as long as you understand that the input common mode
range and output swing will likewise
be asymmetrical.
We can now complete the error budget table (Table 1). The first 8 lines of
the table are similar to the previous
examples, arriving at a cumulative
error of 0.65% with an additional
Rel. Error
0-50°C (Nominal ±25°C)
0.50%
0.038%
0.0375mV
0.038%
0.005mV
0.02%
0.275% error over the 0°C to 50°C temperature range.
Unlike the previous circuit, we
now need to add the error due to the
common-mode signal making its way
through to the output. With a gain of
25.7, we can estimate the CMRR to be
120dB based on 92dB for the difference amp stage plus 20log10(25.7) =
28dB for the input stage.
With a common-mode voltage of
20V, we will therefore see 20µV at
the output. That’s insignificant compared to the 16mV of error due to the
differential-mode stage.
The change in CMRR with temperature is a bit harder to estimate. TI provides graphs that show the temperature variation of CMRR for five sample
devices at gains of one and ten. From
these, I have taken a value ±1.5dB over
0°C to 50°C. It is a bit of a guesstimation, but it does not matter since the
overall level of common-mode feedthrough is so low as to make this figure irrelevant.
The net result is shown therefore
shown at the bottom of Table 1. The
worst-case untrimmed error at 25°C
is ±0.65%, just a little worse than
the ±0.55% error for the ground-
referenced circuit. In both cases, most
of this error is the 0.5% shunt resistor
tolerance.
Rel. Error
0.025%
0V
0.66%
0.0024V
0.093%
Unfortunately, the circuit’s performance over the temperature range
is not great. We are seeing ±0.275%
error, with two major contributors:
the instrumentation amplifier’s input
offset voltage drift and its gain drift.
The LTC2057-based circuit was much
better at 0.075%, as we would expect
from an auto-zero op amp.
Doing better – but at a price
I wanted to see if we could improve
on this, so I looked for a ‘better’ instrumentation amp. The LT1167A fits the
bill. Its input offset voltage at 25°C is
similar to the INA821, but its offset
drift is 25 times better at 0.2µV/°C. Its
gain drift with temperature is also better at ±10ppm°/C, compared with the
±35ppm/°C. Table 2 shows the error
budget for this version of the circuit.
As an aside, it’s a good idea to create these error budget tables in a program like Excel or LibreOffice Calc. I
set up the formulas so that I can easily
try new parts and have the whole table
recalculate automatically.
Compared to the INA821, the new
circuit shows a similar error at nominal temperature of ±0.66%, but an
error over the temperature range
three times better at 0.093%. So, we
should use this device, right? Well,
the LT1167A costs $30 each in one-off
Fig.9: the
INA821 has six
laser-trimmed
precision
resistors and
three op amps.
The user must
provide an
external resistor
(Rg) to set the
overall gain.
Australia's electronics magazine
January 2025 45
Fig.10: the measured untrimmed data for the INA821based circuit shows about 0.3% gain error; most of this is
due to the shunt resistor tolerance.
quantities, so we would want to be certain there was no alternative.
It should however come as no surprise that precision components that
are at the very extremes of performance will be costly. The manufacturers know full well that if there are
no or few alternatives, you will have
to pay up.
Test results
I spared no expense and tested both
devices. I built the circuits and measured the input current vs output voltage characteristics with both zero and
the full common-mode voltage of 20V.
The results for VCM = 20V are
shown in Tables 3 and 4, and plotted
in Figs.10 & 11.
For the INA821, the untrimmed
errors range from 0.01% at zero current to around 0.33% at 1A. The
results were a little better with zero
common mode voltage. As expected,
this is better than our error budget’s
0.65% worst-case estimate. The errors
increase steadily with the magnitude
Fig.11: the untrimmed data for the LT1167A-based circuit
shows the same 0.3% gain error as Fig.10 but has more offset
error. It should perform better over the temperature range.
of current, suggesting a gain error is
the main contributor.
The graphed results and line of best
fit shows this to be the case. The offset
correction we need to apply is very low
(around 250µV) and the gain error is
about 0.3% (the measured gain is about
0.3% higher than we expect). Again,
the shunt resistor with its 0.5% tolerance is likely to be the culprit.
After correcting the results, we get a
trimmed error of ±0.03%, very comparable with the ground-referenced circuit. However, our concern with the
INA821 circuit is its performance over
temperature.
The measured CMRR of this circuit was 106dB – not as good as the
estimates of 120dB, but nevertheless
acceptable. It’s actually a bit difficult to measure CMRR, since things
like op amp input offset voltage can
also change over the common-mode
range, and it’s impossible to isolate
the causes with a simple output voltage measurement.
The LT1167A circuit has worse
Table 5: theoretical improvement to Table 1 with dynamic zero trim
untrimmed accuracy, peaking at
almost 0.47%, but again the graphs
show it to be almost all gain error.
After trimming, the error is reduced to
±0.025%, very similar to the INA821.
The temperature coefficient is better,
of course.
Another solution
Rather than commit to a $30 chip,
I want to introduce another trick we
can use to improve precision in this
type of situation.
So far, we have applied fixed offset
and gain corrections to minimise the
static errors in the circuit. In practice,
this would be done for each sample in
software, based on some one-off calibration performed at a standard temperature when we initially set up the
instrument (and maybe when we periodically re-calibrated it).
Another approach might be to try
to obtain the corrections in real-time
at the ambient operating temperature.
High-end instruments, like the 6½
digit multimeters that I used to obtain
At Nominal 25°C
Abs. Error
Rel. Error
0-50°C (Nominal ±25°C)
Error
Nominal Value
Shunt Resistor: RESI PCSR2512 (0.5%, 15ppm/˚C)
100mW
Abs. Error
Differential Voltage due to I × Rshunt
100mV
0.5mV
InAmp: INA821 (Vos ±35µv, 5µV/˚C) – zero trimmed
0mV
0.035mV
InAmp Input Voltage total (Line 2 + Line 3)
100mV
0.535mV
0.54%
0.0375mV
0.038%
InAmpGain Resistor Rg: RN73C2A (0.1%, 10ppm/˚C)
2kW
2W
0.10%
0.5W
0.025%
0.50%
InAmp Gain Error (0.015% ±35ppm/˚C)
0.50%
Rel. Error
0.038%
0.0375mV
0.038%
0mV
0.02%
0.088%
InAmp Gain (Line 5 × Line 6)
25.7
0.0296
0.12%
0.0289
0.113%
Vout DM (Line 4 × Line 7)
2.57V
0.0167V
0.65%
0.0039V
0.150%
Vout CM (20V, 120db, ±1.5db over 0-50˚C)
0V
0.02mV
Vout (Line 8 + Line 9)
2.57V
0.0167V
46
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
0.0038mV
0.65%
0.0039V
0.150%
siliconchip.com.au
Measured Data
I (mA)
Fig.12: we can improve the
temperature-dependent error of
the circuit by adding switches to
dynamically measure the offset, like
an auto-zero op amp.
the results shown here, effectively
perform a zero and full-scale calibration every 20ms measurement cycle.
Any temperature drift is calibrated out
more-or-less in real-time.
We are not aiming for anything near
that level of precision, but a simpler
version can be a useful technique. It
is pretty difficult to do a full-scale
calibration of our test circuit, as we
would need a precision 1A current
source, but we could do a zero calibration fairly easily.
This won’t let us trim out gain drift
due to temperature but would let us
calibrate out temperature-dependent
offset errors in real-time – a bit like
auto-zero op amps do.
Let’s take a look at this approach
using the INA821 example. Looking
at the error budget table, we can see in
line 3 that we have a possible ±125µV
drift in offset voltage over the temperature range. If we could calibrate that
out, as shown in Table 5, we would
almost halve the temperature error
from ±0.275% to ±0.15%.
Fig.12 shows one way we could
achieve this in practice. Normally, S1
would be closed and S2 open so that
we could take current measurements
as before. Opening S1 and closing S2
shorts the inputs of the instrumentation amplifier so that we can use the
ADC to read the circuit’s offset voltage.
We would still need a fixed gain correction as before, but we can use the
zero-scale reading to create a dynamic
offset correction that will eliminate
some of the temperature drift error.
Extending the range
Let’s regroup and consider what we
have achieved so far.
siliconchip.com.au
Untrimmed Error
Vout (mV)
Absolute (mV)
Trimmed Error
Relative Absolute (mV)
Relative
0.000
0.233
0.23
0.01%
0.48
0.019%
99.726
256.654
0.36
0.01%
-0.19
-0.007%
199.824
514.948
1.40
0.05%
0.05
0.002%
299.980
772.739
1.79
0.07%
-0.36
-0.014%
400.008
1031.164
3.14
0.12%
0.19
0.008%
499.980
1289.040
4.09
0.16%
0.34
0.013%
600.007
1546.980
4.96
0.19%
0.41
0.016%
699.965
1804.750
5.84
0.23%
0.49
0.019%
800.024
2062.770
6.71
0.26%
0.56
0.022%
899.971
2320.490
7.56
0.29%
0.61
0.024%
999.866
2578.110
8.45
0.33%
0.70
0.027%
Table 3 – untrimmed measured results from the INA821 circuit shown in Fig.8.
Measured Data
Untrimmed Error
Trimmed Error
I (mA)
Vout (mV)
Absolute (mV)
Relative Absolute (mV)
Relative
0.000
1.614
1.61
0.06%
0.46
0.018%
99.759
258.745
2.37
0.09%
0.14
0.005%
199.898
517.182
3.44
0.13%
0.14
0.005%
299.829
775.181
4.62
0.18%
0.24
0.009%
400.044
1033.716
5.60
0.22%
0.15
0.006%
500.013
1291.840
6.81
0.26%
0.28
0.011%
600.390
1549.970
6.97
0.27%
-0.64
-0.025%
700.009
1807.980
8.96
0.35%
0.28
0.011%
800.060
2066.110
9.96
0.39%
0.20
0.008%
899.975
2323.980
11.04
0.43%
0.21
0.008%
999.872
2581.780
12.11
0.47%
0.20
0.008%
Table 4 – untrimmed measured results from the INA821 circuit shown in Fig.8
when replaced with an LT1167A.
We have shown that with the shunt
in the positive supply, we can probably achieve a trimmed accuracy of
around 0.03% at 25°C with an additional 0.15% error over the 0–50°C
temperature range if we use the
INA821 instrumentation amplifier and
dynamic offset correction. Let’s call
this 0.2% of total error.
This suggests we will have an overall resolution of ±2mA in our 1A current (ignoring ADC precision for now).
That is not good enough to measure
the microamp resolution we would
like to achieve.
I hope it is clear by now that we
are not going to get the required three
orders of magnitude improvement in
precision just by improving the signal conditioning circuit. Even if we
could, we will run into ADC quantisation limits, which we will cover in
a later article.
Australia's electronics magazine
The current circuit needs an ADC
with at least 10 effective bits of resolution – three more orders of magnitude
would require over 33 bits of effective
resolution, which is pushing the limits of what is possible!
There is another way. We could
pretty easily scale the range of the circuit by using a different shunt resistor. For example, using a 10W resistor
would give a range of 0 to 10mA with
±20µA resolution, while a 1kW resistor would yield a range of 100µA fullscale with ±200nA resolution.
That will require some additional
circuitry to switch the ranges. This,
and the dynamic offset zeroing, will
require us to add some switching elements to our signal path, which will
themselves introduce some imprecision. We will look more deeply into
signal switching in the next instalment
of this series.
SC
January 2025 47
Mini Projects #018 – by Tim Blythman
SILICON CHIP
Gesture-Controlled
USB Lamp
We designed this circuit to work with a lamp,
but it could control just about any USB-powered
device (rated at 5V). You could add an IR receiver
for IR remote control, or an LDR to make it an
automatic night light. By waving your hand over
the small purple module, you can switch power to
the USB socket; perfect for controlling a USB lamp.
B
ack in March 2022, Jim Rowe
wrote about gesture recognition
modules such as Jaycar’s XC3742.
These nifty little modules are capable
of recognising about 10 different hand
gestures using an integrated IR pixel
array (siliconchip.au/Article/15247).
Now, we’re using this module to
control a USB lamp. Since this project switches power to a USB socket, it
could be used to switch any number
of devices that run from USB power.
You can see a video of it working at
siliconchip.au/Videos/Gesture+Lamp
We built it on a prototyping shield
that sits above a Leonardo main
board. That makes it easy to tweak
the circuit if you wanted to make
modifications.
Circuit
Fig.1 shows the circuit. Apart from
the Leonardo board, all the parts
shown there are fitted to a prototyping
shield. There are two sections; on the
right is the gesture recognition module, while on the left we have the USB
power switching circuit.
The wiring to the gesture recognition module is simple enough. It just
needs connections from 5V, GND,
SDA and SCL to the module, which
incorporates the I2C pullup resistors
and a voltage regulator to power the
onboard chip.
We’re using a pair of transistors to
switch power to the USB socket’s positive (5V) pin. The ground pin is permanently connected. Pin A0 (which
can be used as an analog input) is
configured as a digital output. This
keeps the wiring on the prototyping
shield neat.
When A0 is pulled high, about
Parts List – Gesture-based USB Lamp (JMP018)
1 Arduino Leonardo [Jaycar XC4430]
1 Arduino prototyping shield [Jaycar XC4482]
1 Hand Gesture Recognition Module [Jaycar XC3742]
1 1kW 5% (or better) axial ¼W (or more) resistor [Jaycar RR0572]
1 120W 5% (or better) axial ¼W (or more) resistor [Jaycar RR0550]
1 PCB-mounting USB Type-A socket [Jaycar PS0916]
1 TIP32 40V 3A PNP transistor, TO-220 [Jaycar ZT2290]
1 BC546, BC547, BC548 or BC549 100mA NPN transistor, TO-92
[Jaycar ZT2154]
1 30cm length of insulated wire in various colours [Jaycar WH3032]
1 USB-A to micro-USB cable to suit the Leonardo board
1 USB-powered light or similar device to control
48
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
4mA flows through the 1kW resistor
and base-emitter junction of the NPN
transistor, so it switches on and allows
current to flow through its collector to
its emitter.
This, in turn, causes about 40mA to
flow through the PNP transistor’s base
via the 120W resistor, which switches
it on as well. That means that 5V is
available at the USB socket to power
a connected device.
When A0 is held low, both transistors are off and there is no voltage at
the USB socket. It might seem unnecessary to have two transistors, but this
arrangement provides enough drive
to the PNP transistor to ensure it is
switched fully on and does not drop
any significant voltage. It also means
that our input at A0 is intuitive; a high
level swiches the output on and a low
level swiches it off.
The circuit operation depends on
firmware loaded on the Leonardo,
which we will discuss later.
Construction
We built everything on a prototyping shield to create something reasonably robust. You should be able
to see how everything is wired up
from the photos. We’ve used yellow
wires for 5V connections, since red
could be difficult to see against the
red shield PCB.
There is no significant wiring under
the shield, so everything is visible from
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: all parts of this circuit apart
from the Leonardo board are fitted
to a prototyping shield. It supplies
5V to the USB socket on the left
when the A0 pin is brought high.
above. The only thing to note is that the
four wires connecting to the gesture
recognition module do so underneath
the shield, connecting to the immediately adjacent wire in each case.
We’ve positioned the USB socket
to make use of the IC breakout pads
on the shield. It also means that the
USB input (to the Leonardo) and the
output (on our shield) are at the same
end, making external connections
tidier. That puts the gesture sensor at
the other end, where it can be accessed
easily.
Start by soldering the header onto
the gesture module and then solder it
to the shield. We lifted ours up slightly
so it sits just below the top of the shield
header sockets.
Run the four connecting wires next.
There is a yellow wire from 5V on the
shield to Vcc on the module, as well as
a single black wire for ground (GND)
and two blue wires for SCL and SDA.
Make sure those are routed as shown.
Refer to the photo of the USB sockets that show how we’ve bent the two
large tabs outwards. That allows them
to be soldered to the top of the shield.
The four smaller pins should slot into
the pads with a bit of wiggling; the
pad spacing is not quite the same as
the pin spacing on the socket, but it
is close enough.
We have left a row of pads behind
the USB socket so that wires can be
attached there. Add a generous amount
siliconchip.com.au
of solder to the larger tabs to give them
some mechanical strength, then solder
the four smaller pins.
Next, fit the two transistors, being
careful with their orientation. In our
photos, from left-to-right, the pins are
(for the PNP transistor) emitter, collector, then base, followed by (for the NPN
transistor) collector, base and emitter.
The photo overleaf shows the wiring
most clearly, also check that your wiring matches the circuit.
Next, add the two resistors, with
the 1kW resistor going from A0 to the
NPN transistor’s base and the 120W
resistor going between the PNP transistor’s base and the NPN transistor’s
collector.
Follow with the remaining wires as
shown in the photos. Note that some
5V and GND connections are made on
pads near the USB socket. They should
be marked, but you can carefully follow the copper traces on the prototyping shield to be certain.
Finally, plug the completed shield
into the Leonardo and connect it to a
computer for programming.
Software
The sketch is quite simple and
just needs one external library for
the gesture sensing; we used one of
the same libraries Jim used back in
2022. It can be installed by searching
for “RevEng_PAJ7620” in the library
Bend the tabs on the USB socket as shown here (on the right) so they can be
soldered to the top of the prototyping shield. This will provide the needed
mechanical strength for devices being plugged and unplugged.
Australia's electronics magazine
January 2025 49
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Silicon Chip
Follow the wiring to match our circuit (Fig.1). The wires for the gesture
module connect to their adjacent pads under the PCB. That is the only
wiring on the underside of the shield PCB. You can also see the generous
solder blobs that we have added to the USB socket to secure it to the board.
manager. Alternatively, you can install
the zipped copy we are including with
the software package, which can all
be downloaded from siliconchip.au/
Shop/6/526
The sketch initialises the sensor.
If that fails, the Leonardo’s onboard
LED flashes. Otherwise, the software
monitors the sensor, switching on the
USB output with an ‘up’ gesture and
off with a ‘down’ gesture.
The Leonardo’s onboard LED also
indicates the on/off state, while other
debugging information is available on
the serial terminal. Some of the values
that correspond to other gestures are
listed if you wish to change the default
behaviour.
To program the Leonardo board,
open the sketch in the Arduino IDE,
choose the correct board in the dropdown menus along with its serial port
and then upload the sketch.
The sketch and circuit should
work without changes with the Uno
Australia's electronics magazine
R3 board instead of the Leonardo,
although we have not tested that.
Testing
While connected to your computer,
wave your hand above the module and
verify that the Serial Monitor reports
the gesture correctly. We found that
moving our hand about 10cm above
the sensor worked well. You will
also see the Leonardo’s onboard LED
switch on and off.
Plug a USB device into the socket
and confirm that it operates as
expected. If all is well, you can plug
the Leonardo into a USB power supply to untether it from your computer.
The transistor and thus USB socket
can deliver about 1A at most; of course,
that will depend on your power supply
being able to provide enough power. In
our testing with a 500mA lamp, there
was no noticeable temperature rise in
any of the components.
SC
siliconchip.com.au
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Mini Projects #019 – by Tim Blythman
SILICON CHIP
The BIG Clock
If you need a BIG
Clock, look no
further! It tells the
time, is three feet
wide and one foot
tall (that sounds
larger than 90 ×
30cm). The BIG
Clock has a simple circuit and we think our clever
readers will come up with other ideas for using the BIG, bright display we have designed.
W
e’ve thought for a while that
addressable RGB LED strips
would be a good way to make a large,
bright display. We thought of arranging the strips in rows to create a dot-
matrix type display, but that would not
have been as big as the BIG Clock. It
is 90cm wide and 30cm tall, with the
active area of the digit display being
65cm wide and 20cm tall.
These strips have a connection for
power, ground and data in at one end,
with a matching connection at the
other end for power, ground and data
out. Multiple strips can be joined by
simply connecting power to power,
ground to ground and data out to
data in. Many strips can also be cut
to shorter lengths; the smaller strips
can then be rejoined in the same way.
We’re using Jaycar’s XC4390
WS2812B RGB LED strip. It is 2m long
and contains 120 RGB LEDs. Thus,
there is one LED every 16.6mm. If we
had cut this into five strips of 24 LEDs
(about the minimum number of rows
needed to make a working dot-matrix
display), it would be about 9cm tall
and 40cm wide.
Instead, we have arranged the LEDs
as multiple 7-segment digits. If the segments have five LEDs, we can make
digits that are each nearly 20cm tall
Fig.1 (left): by arranging the
strips in this fashion and
wiring in this order, the length
of wire between each segment
is kept short.
Photo 1 (right): here is what a
single digit (showing a ‘0’) looks
like up close.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
January 2025 55
Fig.2: this segments order was arranged to simplify the wiring and matches the software mapping of the segments in the
BIG Clock sketch.
and 10cm wide. The 120 LEDs yield
three 7-segment digits, with three
segments to spare; enough to make a
12-hour clock display.
You can see a video of it in operation
at siliconchip.au/Videos/BIG+Clock
Photo 1 and Fig.1 show the basic
arrangement of a digit. Like smaller
7-segment displays, we have tilted
the segments about 10° from vertical.
The digits are around 9cm wide and
18cm tall, with the segments each
about 8.3cm long.
Fig.1 also shows the way we have
wired the segments in each digit. You
can see that this keeps the wiring quite
short and tidy.
Fig.2 shows the pattern we used to
wire all the segments of the digits on
our BIG Clock, with the output of one
numbered segment going to the input
of the segment numbered one higher.
We used two spare segments to create
a leading ‘1’ (#1 & #2) to show hours
up to 12. This leaves a single segment
spare, which we used as a dash (#10)
to separate the hours and minutes.
Circuit details
The LEDs are controlled by an
Arduino Uno WiFi R4 microcontroller board. Its inbuilt WiFi radio can be
used to fetch the time using NTP (network time protocol) from the internet.
To provide a discreet (and discrete)
interface, we added a magnetic reed
switch to allow daylight savings to be
switched off and on.
The circuit is pleasingly simple.
All we need is a microcontroller to
provide the necessary serial signal to
produce the clock display. This digital signal comes from the A0 pin.
Although it can be used for analog
functions, we have used it as a digital output since it is close to the other
(5V and GND) pins needed to drive
the LEDs.
The reed switch is connected
between A2 and GND; an internal
pullup means this pin is high unless
a magnet is nearby, when the switch
shorts the pin to ground. Fig.3 shows
the circuit.
Construction
Laying out and connecting the segments is the most time-consuming
part of the construction process. If you
want to test the LEDs before or during
assembly, jump forward to the Software section so that you can load up
the libraries or a test sketch to do so.
We used a 900mm x 600mm sheet of
Corflute cut in half lengthwise, giving
a panel 300mm tall and 900mm wide.
Corflute is like corrugated cardboard
but made from plastic. The corrugations run parallel to the long side,
which is helpful when sketching out
your plans.
Fig.4 shows the critical dimensions
of a single digit and its relation to adjacent digits. Using a plastic substrate
means that you can use an erasable
Fig.3: the circuit of the BIG Clock is simple; the microcontroller board
provides power and data to a series of addressable LEDs. A magnetic reed
switch provides a digital input that can be used to toggle the daylight saving
mode.
56
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Photo 2: much of the wiring is hidden at the back of the panel. If you have kept the
other half of the Corflute sheet, it could be used to make a rear panel to hide the wiring.
marker to demarcate the locations and
remove them later.
Find the centre of the panel and
mark the corresponding horizontal
and vertical lines. Add horizontal lines
9cm below and above the centreline.
Similarly, add vertical lines 15cm and
30cm to the left and right of the centre.
These will allow you to use Fig.4 to
sketch the outline of each digit.
Next, mark out the holes needed for
each digit (the green dots in Fig.4). Note
that not all locations require holes! The
centre position, for example, will only
need holes for the central segment, as
it only shows a dash. Double-check the
segments against the photos as you go.
Cut the LED strip into sections with
five LEDs. Be careful to leave some
visible copper on each side to allow
soldering. The first and last segments
come with fixed wiring attached, so
they will have to go in the locations
marked 1 and 24 in Fig.2.
We found that attaching the wires
was a bit tricky, since the conformal
coating applied to the board inhibits
soldering, although it can be soldered
through with patience and ventilation. We suggest wiring the segments
in groups of seven (for the three full
digits) using short pieces of wire (about
5cm). For each connection, join 5V to
5V, DO to DIN and GND to GND.
If you cut narrow slots in the Corflute as marked by the cyan lines in
Fig.4, you can slot these short wires
in from the front, so they are hidden.
Then, you only need to make the longer joins between the segments; the
longer lengths will allow a bit of room
to manoeuvre the strips into a position
to allow wiring.
Take your time, ensure that the
strips go in the correct locations and
that wiring flows in the direction of the
arrows marked on the strip and in the
siliconchip.com.au
order shown in Photo 1. Don’t be afraid
to hook it up to test that the segments
wired so far are working correctly.
Photo 2 shows our layout from the
rear of the panel. Once everything is
roughly in place, remove the backing
paper from the adhesive on the strips
and press them against the Corflute.
There are extra red and white
(power) wires at each end. We connected these with insulated wire and
heatshrink tubing to provide an extra
power feed and to terminate the loose
ends. We cut the extra set of three wires
short so that they would not get in the
way or contact anything else.
Uno WiFi R4 wiring
We plugged an 8-way header into
the headers on the Uno WiFi R4 as
shown in Fig.3 and Photo 3. Remove
the middle two pins by pulling them
out with pliers. This will prevent an
inadvertent connection to VIN, since
the LEDs only work with 5V supplies.
When bending the leads of the reed
relay, avoid straining them where
they enter the glass envelope, or it
can break. We suggest you grasp the
lead with pliers close to the body,
then bend it, so that no bending force
reaches the glass. Solder the wires as
shown in Fig.3 and plug the header
into the main board.
The wire colours on the LED strip
might be different; ours had red for 5V,
white for ground and green for data.
Photo 3 shows that detail on our build.
Fig.4: use these dimensions to sketch out the segments on your Corflute before
making the holes marked in green. Their size is not critical; about 5mm should
work well. The cyan lines indicate slits that can be used to feed the wires
through from the front of the panel.
Australia's electronics magazine
January 2025 57
Parts List – Big Clock (JMP019)
1 Arduino Uno WiFi R4 microcontroller board [Jaycar XC9211]
1 120 RGB LED addressable strip [Jaycar XC4390]
1 magnetic reed switch [Jaycar SM1002]
1 8-pin header, 2.54mm pitch [cut from Jaycar HM3211]
3 1.5m lengths of insulated wire in different colours [Jaycar WH3032]
1 600mm x 900mm sheet of Corflute or similar [Bunnings 0390160]
1 short length of double-sided tape to secure the Uno WiFi R4
[Jaycar NM2821]
1 reel of electrical tape to secure loose wires
1 10cm length of 3mm diameter heatshrink tubing
1 magnet to operate the reed switch
1 USB-C cable to suit the Uno WiFi R4
Secure the Uno WiFi R4 to the Corflute
using double-sided tape, and secure
loose wires with the electrical tape.
Software
Arduino IDE needs to be installed
and the Arduino R4 board profile
selected. This can be installed by
searching for “R4” in the Boards Manager and then clicking install.
The Adafruit Neopixel library is also
required; we’ve included it in the software download package (siliconchip.
au/Shop/6/530), along with the sketch
file. You can also search for “neopixel”
in the Library Manager to find it.
There are several sketches under
the Neopixel examples (and one in
the Jaycar XC4390 data sheet); you just
need to change the LED_PIN to A0 and
the LED_COUNT to 120. These are a
quick way to test that the display is
functional.
Open the BIG_CLOCK_UNO_R4_
WIFI sketch and change the WiFi
credentials at the top of the sketch.
There are other parameters that can be
changed, but that should be enough to
check that all features are functional.
Upload the sketch after selecting the
correct board and serial port from the
menus.
The Serial Monitor will report the
Clock’s status (115,200 baud); a typical boot sequence is shown in Screen
1. The LEDs should all switch on for
two seconds, then normal operation
will start. If you see an E0 message
on the LEDs, the WiFi connection has
failed. E1 indicates that the time has
not been updated. Table 1 also lists
some commands that can be entered
at the serial monitor.
Customisation
There are a few things that can be
changed in the sketch code. The standard time zone offset (in minutes) is
set by STD_TZ_OFFSET. The daylight
saving adjustment (effected by using a
magnet on the reed switch) is one hour.
The colour of the lit LEDs is set by
Connected
IP address: 192.168.0.15
Checking UTP on connection
Starting NTP check
UDP packet sent
25ms round trip. Packet received
Time OK
UTC is 2024-09-11T04:39:20
Time is 2024-09-11T14:39:20
Time is 2024-09-11T14:40:00
Time is 2024-09-11T14:41:00
Time is 2024-09-11T14:42:00
Screen 1: this shows a normal
startup on the Serial Monitor. The
IP address and round trip time
are not important. Other messages
may appear automatically or if the
commands from Table 1 are run.
the CLOCK_COLOUR #define; you can
use the values given or provide RGB
triples. The brightness dictates the current draw, which peaked at 700mA for
a BRIGHTNESS setting of 70 on our
prototype. Check your supply capabilities and adjust this to suit.
If you have Arduino experience,
you can also modify the LED layout
or mapping. The digits array is a C++
struct (with type seg7_t) for each digit.
The struct’s first item is the number of
pixels for each segment, followed by
the first pixel of each segment in order
from ‘a’ to ‘g’.
For example, with just four LEDs per
segment, you could have 30 segments,
giving a full four 7-segment digits plus
a couple of segments to spare; enough
to count up to 19999.
We think the white Corflute looks
smart but it doesn’t give a lot of contrast against the LEDs. When we get the
chance, we plan to paint the Clock’s
background a flat grey to make the
SC
numbers stand out more.
Photo 3: an 8-pin header with the
two central pins removed is used
to connect the wiring to the Uno
WiFi R4. The green wire at right
carries data to the DIN pad of the
first LED pixel. When completed,
the Big Clock is three feet (900mm)
wide and lights up the room. We
think it will give our readers some
great ideas for creating other large
displays.
Table 1: serial commands
58
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
Command
Action
u
Force NTP time refresh
r
Reboot processor
t
Make time invalid
0
Turn off daylight saving
1
Turn on daylight saving
siliconchip.com.au
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DECEMBER 2024
ISSN 1030-2662
12
The VERY BEST DIY Projects
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5MHz 40A
Current
Probe
A current probe is an incredibly useful tool for
development, testing and debugging but is usually
quite expensive. This DIY version performs well
compared to many commercial offerings but at a
fraction of the price!
Project by Andrew Levido
Levido
U
sing an oscilloscope to monitor
the current in a circuit can be challenging. Oscilloscopes are made to
measure voltages, so if you can find or
add a suitable shunt resistor in the current path, you can measure the current
indirectly. However, this is usually
only practical at relatively low current levels and only if you can safely
connect your ‘scope probe ground to
one side of the shunt (which is often
not the case).
Say there is no suitable shunt resistor, the current runs to several amps
or the circuit is not conducive to the
safe connection of a grounded probe.
You will probably have to use an isolated current probe in those cases. If
your circuit operates at mains potential, an isolated probe is mandatory.
You can certainly buy such current
probes. The problem is getting good
performance at a reasonable price. You
can opt to spend thousands of dollars
on a high-end 50-100MHz probe from
one of the big names in test equipment,
or you can spend $100 or less on AliExpress for a no-name probe with a
bandwidth of just a few hundred hertz.
I wanted an inexpensive, high-
performance current probe, so I
built my own. The resulting probe,
described here, can measure current
up to ±40A, with a bandwidth from
DC to 5MHz. Its output is fully isolated from the measurement terminals,
so you can safely measure the current
of mains-powered devices.
The output, available on a BNC connector, is scaled to 100mV per amp,
so it is in the range ±4V. The device
is powered by an internal rechargeable lithium-ion cell. Charging is via
a power-only USB-C socket.
Current Probe Features & Specifications
»
»
»
»
»
»
»
»
»
»
60
Current measurement: bi-directional
Output scaling: 0.1V/A (±40A translates to ±4V)
Input/output isolation: 420V RMS (600V peak) ‘reinforced’
Maximum current: 40A peak (35A continuous)
Bandwidth: DC-5MHz
Power supply: onboard Li-ion cell
Battery life: approximately 30 hours
Charging: USB Type-C socket (5V DC)
Charging time: approximately 3 hours from flat
Charging current: 300mA (optionally 100mA)
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
Scope 1 shows a typical ‘scope capture made using the probe. This is the
mains inrush current of a variable-
frequency motor drive unit, which has
a large capacitor bank charged via a
bridge rectifier from the mains. A softstart circuit limits the inrush current
at power-on. The vertical scale of the
scope capture is 2V per division, corresponding to 20A per division.
You can see that the peak charging
current is about 34A in the first half-
cycle, with a reduction in the current
each cycle after that as the capacitors
charge.
Another example capture is shown
in Scope 2. Here, a short is applied
across a bench power supply set to
a 6A current limit. The peak current spikes to almost 50A (showing
some headroom in the current probe’s
design) but rapidly drops as the power
supply current regulation circuit
begins to operate. Within a millisecond, the current is brought under control and limited to 6A.
Design
The heart of the current probe is
the ACS37030 chip from Allegro
Microsystems. Like many similar
devices, this uses a Hall effect sensor to measure a current indirectly by
measuring the magnitude of the magnetic field it produces. See the separate panel for some background on
siliconchip.com.au
how the Hall effect works and how it
is used in this application.
Hall sensors are useful in these
applications since they work with DC;
however, their frequency response is
typically limited to a few hundred
kilohertz.
The ACS37030 family of sensors
is particularly interesting because it
pairs a Hall effect sensor for DC and
low-frequency signals with inductive
sense coils for high-frequency signals.
They are available with full-scale current ratings of ±20A, ±40A or ±65A and
come in a 6-pin SOIC (small-outline
integrated circuit) package with 3500V
RMS isolation. All for less than $8 in
low quantities.
The block diagram of the ACS37030
is shown in Fig.1. You can see the Hall
current sensor at lower left (“Dynamic
Offset Cancellation”), with the inductive sensor just above it. The output
from the transducers is conditioned
by two separate signal chains, which
come together at a summing junction.
The resulting signal is buffered and
offset to produce the output signal.
An advanced digital subsystem uses
calibration data stored in non-volatile
memory to manage the gain of the two
signal paths, providing an accurate
output over the whole frequency and
operating temperature range.
Since the sensor uses a single 3.3V
supply, the output signal swings
around a zero-current level of 1.65V,
provided by an internal bandgap reference. For the 40A device used here,
this output voltage is 1.65V±33.3mV/A
for a maximum output swing of just
under 0.3V to 3.0V.
Notably, the 1.65V reference is available on one of the pins. Some chips
lack such a facility, and it is very difficult to zero them. Even if you have an
external trimmable reference voltage
that you adjust to get 0V output at 0A
current, any differential drift between
the two reference voltages will cause
the output accuracy to deteriorate significantly.
To display the output voltage conveniently on an oscilloscope, we must
remove the offset and amplify the signal to get a ±100mV/A signal based
around zero volts. The most straightforward way to achieve this is to use
an instrumentation amplifier. An
instrumentation amplifier is a high-
precision differential amplifier based
on op amps that usually uses a single
resistor to set its overall gain.
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: the ACS37030 current sensor features a Hall sensor for DC and lowfrequency measurements, plus an inductive sensor for higher frequencies. These
are combined by some clever circuity to provide a flat response from DC to 5MHz.
Scope 1: the inrush current for a variable-frequency motor drive as measured by
the current probe. The scale is 20A per division.
Scope 2: This scope grab, made using the current probe, shows the current
supplied by a short-circuited bench power supply, at 10A per division. The
current peaks at almost 50A before being rapidly brought under control and
limited to 6A.
Australia's electronics magazine
January 2025 61
precision that would be difficult (read
expensive) to emulate with discrete
components.
Fig.2: the INA849
instrumentation amplifier
uses the classic three-opamp topology with six lasertrimmed matched resistors.
One external resistor, Rg, sets
the overall gain.
The instrumentation amplifier used
in this project is the INA849. It is a
classic three-op-amp configuration, as
shown in Fig.2. The input stage consists of two non-inverting amplifiers
with internal 3kW feedback resistors.
A single external resistor, Rg, sets the
gain of this stage according to the formula G = 1 + 6kW ÷ Rg.
The second stage is a differential
amplifier. As the name suggests, it
amplifies the difference between two
voltages but strongly attenuates any
common-mode signal. In the case of
the INA849, the differential gain is
Circuit details
unity. Therefore, the output voltage
is given by the formula Vout = Vref +
(Vin+ – Vin-) × (1 + 6kW ÷ Rg).
The REF terminal is often connected
directly to ground, as per the figure,
but you can use it to add an offset to
the output if required.
We could build our own instrumentation amplifier from discrete op
amps, but it’s convenient to use an
integrated package like this because
the common-mode rejection depends
on the close matching of the resistors. Packages like this use internal
laser-trimmed resistors matched to a
Now we can turn to the complete
circuit diagram (Fig.3) to see how it all
works. The ACS37030 (IC1) is powered
by a 3.3V rail supplied by low-dropout
(LDO) 3.3V linear regulator REG2. The
sensor output voltage and the 1.65V
reference are applied to the instrumentation amplifier’s non-inverting &
inverting inputs, respectively.
Achieving a differential gain of three
requires a nominal Rg value of 3kW.
While 3kW resistors are available (it’s
a common E24 value for 1% resistors),
I used a combination of fixed resistors
plus a trimpot to allow an adjustment
range of about ±3% around this figure.
This allows the user to trim out any
gain error in the sensor, which could
be as much as ±2%.
The trimmer has the added advantage of obviating the need for high-
precision resistors here.
Fig.3: the current probe circuit reveals that the signal path is very simple, consisting of just the instrumentation amplifier
with its associated gain and offset trimming. The balance of the circuit is the power supply and battery charger.
62
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
The ACS37030 data suggests that
along with the ±2% gain error, there
could also be a potential offset error
of up to ±10mV. That would translate
to ±30mV at the output after amplification. This is why I am driving the
instrumentation amplifier’s REF pin
with an adjustable offset trim voltage
of ±50mV derived from the divider
that includes trimpot VR2.
The offset trim voltage is buffered by
op amp IC4a since the input impedance of the REF pin is relatively low.
The instrumentation amplifier's output goes to the output BNC connector
(CON3) via a 100W resistor to protect
the amplifier IC from short circuits at
the output.
The rest of the circuit is the power
supply. We require a ±6V split supply for the amplifiers. This was chosen because the common-mode input
voltage of the instrumentation amplifier can’t be any closer than 2.5V from
either supply rail. Since our maximum
input voltage extends to 3V, we need
supply rails of at least ±5.5V. I chose
±6V to provide a bit of headroom.
These rails are derived from a single
Li-ion cell via REG6, which contains a
boost converter to create the positive
rail and an inverting converter to provide the negative rail. The switching
Mosfets are internal to the package,
but the inductors and rectifier diodes
are external: L1/D2 for the positive rail
and L2/D3 for the negative.
The output is regulated by providing voltage feedback via two
100kW/20kW resistive voltage dividers, which reduce the ±6V outputs to
±1V, matching REG6’s internal feedback target voltages. The R1283K regulator can operate with an input voltage of 2.5-5.5V, which is ideal for a
single Li-ion cell.
When power switch S1 is on, the
cell is connected to the DC-to-DC converter. If it is off, the cell is instead
connected to IC5, a MAX1555 dual-
input Li-ion battery charger. This linear device charges the cell at 100mA if
powered via the USB input or 300mA
if powered from the DC input.
The USB input is useful for charging
from legacy USB hubs, which may
not be able to supply more than
100mA. However, this current probe
is designed for a USB type-C power
source that can supply at least 500mA,
so the higher charge current is used to
minimise the changing time.
The PCB has provision for either
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configuration. LED1 will be on while
the battery is charging and will switch
off once full charge is reached.
The USB-C connector is a power-
only type with just a subset of the normal 24 pins. These include the power
pins and the control channel (CC) pins,
which are terminated with 5.1kW resistors to ground. This tells the source
that it should supply 5V. The power
input is protected from overvoltage by
a TVS diode (TVS1) and a series PTC
resettable fuse, PTC1.
Construction
All components are mounted on a
double-sided PCB coded 9049-01 that
measures 56.5 × 76.5mm. The component overlay diagram (Fig.4) shows
where everything goes.
To keep it compact, this project
uses almost entirely surface-mounted
parts. I managed to mostly avoid any
difficult-to-handle parts; all passives
are M2012/0805 size (2.0 × 1.2mm) or
larger and all but one of the semiconductors are in easy-to-solder SOIC-8,
SOT-223 or SOT-23 packages.
Unfortunately, the DC-DC converter
(REG6) is not available in anything
other than a DFN (dual flat no-lead)
package, so that is where I suggest you
start the assembly process.
It really helps if you have a hot
air reflow station. These stations are
useful for soldering chips like this
one and also make desoldering many
SMDs straightforward. They are not
terribly expensive if purchased online.
The easiest way to get REG6 soldered down is to use a soldering iron
to lightly tin the pads, including the
thermal pad in the centre. The solder
should just cover the pads and not be
too lumpy. If you put down too much,
you can use solder wick to remove
the excess.
Next, apply a generous amount of
flux paste, position the chip carefully
(making sure its pin 1 mark is oriented
correctly) and hold it in place with
tweezers while you use hot air to gently reflow the solder. Once the solder
melts, surface tension should pull the
chip neatly into place.
Any visible solder balls or bridges
can be removed with solder wicking
braid and a hot iron. After cleaning the
area with isopropyl alcohol or similar,
you have completed the hardest part.
Mount the rest of the surface mount
parts using your preferred method. I
apply a dab of solder to one pad first,
then position the component with
tweezers and reflow that pin with the
soldering iron. With just one pin soldered, I can tweak the location if necessary to get the other pin(s) into a place
I am happy with. Finally, I solder the
remaining pin(s).
Fig.4: all components are easy-tosolder surface mount or through-hole
types, with the exception of REG6. It
requires a little more care but is easily
achievable for the hobbyist.
January 2025 63
Parts List – 5MHz 40A Current Probe
1 ABS handheld instrument case, 92 × 66 × 28mm [Hammond 1593LBK]
1 double-sided PCB coded 9049-01, 56.5 × 76.5mm
1 14500 (AA-size) Li-ion battery with PCB pins (BAT1) [Altronics S4981]
2 6.8μH 1A SMD inductors, M3225/1210 size (L1, L2)
[Murata 1276AS-H-6R8M=P2]
1 0.75A 24V PTC fuse, SMD M3225 size (PTC1) [Littelfuse 1210L075/24PR]
1 100W 4.9 × 3.9mm SMD trimpot (VR1) [SM-42TW101]
1 1kW 4.9 × 3.9mm SMD trimpot (VR2) [SM-42TW102]
1 PCB-mounting sub-miniature DPDT toggle switch (S1)
[E-Switch 200MDP1T2B2M6RE]
1 red panel-mounting binding post (CON1) [Cal Test Electronics CT2232-2]
1 black panel-mounting binding post (CON2) [Cal Test Electronics CT2232-0]
1 right-angle PCB-mount 50W BNC socket (CON3) [Molex 0731000105]
1 USB type-C power-only socket with through-hole mounting pins (CON4)
[Molex 217175-0001 or equivalent]
2 panel-mount 3mm light pipes, 15mm long (for LED1 & LED2)
[Dialight 51513020600F]
2 Koa RCUCTE SMD test points (TP0, TP1; optional)
4 No.4 × 6mm self-tapping screws
1 100mm length of 1.0-1.5mm diameter tinned copper wire
Semiconductors
1 ACS37030LLZATR-040B3 5MHz 40A current sensor, SOIC-6 (IC1)
1 LD1117S33 or equivalent 3.3V 800mA LDO regulator, SOT-223 (REG2)
1 INA849DR 28MHz instrumentation amplifier, SOIC-8 (IC3)
1 LM358 dual single-supply op amp, SOIC-8 (IC4)
1 MAX1555EZK-T Li-ion battery charger, SOT-23-5 (IC5)
1 R1283K001B-TR buck/boost switching regulator, UFDFN-14 (REG6)
1 yellow SMD LED, M2012/0805 size (LED1)
1 green SMD LED, M2012/0805 size (LED2)
1 SMBJ5.0CA 5.0V TVS diode, DO-214AA (TVS1)
2 30V 1A schottky diodes, DO-214AC/SMA (D2, D3) [MBRA130LT3G, SS14]
Capacitors (all SMD M2012/0805 50V X7R unless noted)
1 100μF 25V tantalum, SME case [Kyocera TAJE107K025RNJ]
7 10μF 16V
3 100nF
1 220pF C0G
Resistors (all SMD M2012/0805 ⅛W 1% unless noted)
2 100kW
2 20kW
1 2.7kW
1 510W
1 240W
2 56kW
2 5.1kW
1 1.8kW
1 100W
1 0W
I find this works for two-pin devices
like resistors and capacitors, as well
as for the ICs.
The current sensor chip, IC1, straddles an unplated slot cut into the
board. This slot is to provide plenty
of creepage distance between the current being measured and the rest of the
circuit. However, it makes the board
quite flexible in this area, so handle
it carefully after soldering IC2. If the
board is flexed too much, it is possible
to overstress the IC’s pins and break
them – as I unfortunately discovered!
Solder the USB connector’s throughhole tabs first to locate it, then the six
smaller surface-mounting pins.
Case preparation
Before you fit the BNC connector,
binding posts or battery (well, cell), it’s
a good idea to prepare the case. That
will allow you to align those larger
connectors properly. The cell should
be left off until the testing described
below is completed.
Drill the enclosure's cover and end
plates as shown in Fig.5. The USB slot
can be made by drilling two 2.8-3.0mm
holes at either end and then filing out
the plastic between them.
Now drop the PCB into the case,
resting on its mounting bosses, insert
the BNC connector through the hole
in the end plate and drop it into its
mounting holes on the PCB. If everything lines up, you can tack-solder the
BNC connector in place from the top,
then remove the whole assembly from
the case and solder it properly, taking
care that it doesn’t bend as you do so.
If it doesn’t fit perfectly, you will
need to enlarge the panel hole slightly
and try again.
Now attach the input terminals
(binding posts) to the appropriate end
plate and tighten the nuts. Connect
the input terminals to the PCB using
a few lengths of tinned copper wire
bent over the terminal studs, through
the PCB slots, and soldered in place.
Remember that this connection could
carry up to 40A, so ensure it is solid.
Remove the assembly from the case
and trim off any excess wire. Make
sure that there cannot be any shorts
between the terminals!
Testing
With the switch to the right, the probe is
powered; to the left, it can be charged via USB.
64
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
If you have a current-limited bench
supply, it’s a good idea to test the circuit before soldering the battery to the
board. Set the onboard switch to the
siliconchip.com.au
on position, towards the BNC connector. Set the bench supply to 4V with
a limit of around 100mA. Then, taking care to connect it with the correct
polarity, hold its output leads to the
two battery pads and monitor the current draw.
The power supply should not go
into current limiting; the circuit
should only draw about 20-30mA.
LED2 (green) should light. If all seems
well, you can disconnect the power
supply, switch off the onboard power
switch and solder the battery in place.
If something is wrong, check all your
soldering carefully and verify that all
components are installed correctly.
Before soldering the battery to the
PCB, make sure the power switch is
in the off (charging) position, with
the toggle switch away from the
BNC connector. Once the battery is
installed, treat the board with care.
Inadvertently shorting things now
could be catastrophic, as Li-ion batteries can source a lot of current.
Next, check that the battery voltage
is between 3.0V and 4.2V. Switch the
unit on, and LED2 should light again.
Check for 6V across the 10μF capacitor
immediately to the left of L2 and the
similar capacitor immediately to the
left of D3. That will verify that both
supply rails are correct.
If the readings are wrong, switch
it off immediately; you most likely
have a problem with the power supply section. Check REG6 and its surrounding components, especially L1,
L2, D2 and D3.
Once the power supply is working
correctly, you can check the battery
charging circuit by switching the unit
off and connecting a suitable USB supply. The yellow charge LED (LED1)
should light, and the voltage across
the battery should begin to slowly rise.
When the battery voltage reaches
about 4.2V, the charge LED should go
out, indicating that the battery is fully
charged. Depending on the battery’s
initial state of charge, that could take
a few hours.
Final assembly
You can now apply the front panel
label, shown in Fig.6 (download from
siliconchip.au/Shop/11/490).
Once it is in place, carefully cut out
the LED holes and insert the light pipes
from the outside. They can be secured
with a drop of cyanoacrylate (super)
glue on the inside of the case.
Fig.5: drilling the case is straightforward. The USB slot is best
made by drilling two 2.8-3.0mm holes at the ends and joining them
with a file. You can see how the finished case looks at left, and
how the PCB slots into the case shown enlarged above.
Slip the end plate over the
BNC connector, switch and
USB socket and screw the
whole assembly into the base
of the enclosure with 6mm self-
tapping screws.
Calibration
To calibrate the Probe, you
will need a current-limited
bench power supply capable of
sourcing a few amps and a multimeter. If you have two meters,
so much the better. First, set the
offset trim.
Connect the meter, switched
Fig.6: the label artwork for the
front of the enclosure. Print it
on sticky-backed paper, cut
out the outline and apply it
(or laminate it, or use your
preferred label-making method).
Use the case as a template to cut
the holes for the light pipes.
The Hall Effect
Edwin Hall first described the Hall effect in 1879, just a decade after Maxwell published
his seminal work on the interaction of electric and magnetic fields. The lower left diagram shows how it works.
A current (green arrow) flows through the long axis of a conductor that is subject to
a magnetic field perpendicular to the direction of current flow (lavender arrow).
Hall discovered that under these circumstances, the electrons making up this current
– which flow in the opposite direction to the current – would experience a Lorentz force
pushing them towards one side of the conductor, as shown by the curved blue arrow.
As a reminder, Lorentz’s law states that a charged particle, such as an electron, moving
in a magnetic field will experience a force at right angles to both the direction of the field
and its velocity. This is the basic principle by which electric motors and generators work.
The build-up of negative charge on one side of the conductor (and the corresponding
positive charge on the other side, where there will be a dearth of electrons) produces
an electric potential across the conductor. This Hall voltage is proportional to both the
conductor current and the strength of the magnetic field.
The Hall effect also works in semiconductors, although the polarity of the Hall voltage may be different in some semiconductors where ‘holes’, rather than electrons, are
responsible for current flow.
In practical Hall effect sensors, the current to be measured passes through a conductor surrounded by a magnetically permeable core. The Hall sensor is positioned in a
narrow gap in this core, so the magnetic field produced by the current in the conductor
passes through the element perpendicular to both the excitation current and the Hall
voltage measurement terminals. Since the excitation current is fixed, the Hall voltage
is proportional to the magnetic field strength, which is, in turn, proportional to the conductor current.
Magnetic Core
Fixed
Current
Conductor
Hall
Sensor
Hall Voltage
Sensing
66
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
to a low voltage range, between the
probe output test point (TP1) and
ground (TP0). With the unit switched
on and nothing connected to the input
terminals, adjust the offset pot (VR2)
for a meter reading close to 0V. You
should be able to get it to less than
±1mV.
To trim the gain, configure the power
supply to deliver a few volts and set
the current limit to 3A or whatever
maximum your power supply will
deliver. Switch your meter to read
current (remember to swap the probes
to the correct jacks), select the appropriate range, and connect it across the
power supply.
The supply should go into current
limiting and regulate the current somewhere near the setpoint. Record the
current value displayed on the meter.
Now switch the meter back to volts
and connect it back to TP0 and TP1
as before. Connect the current probe
inputs across the power supply without changing any of the settings. The
output voltage should read close to
one-tenth of the current reading you
noted earlier.
For example, if you measured the
current to be 3.02A, you should see
something like 0.302V on the meter. If
the reading is a bit off, adjust the gain
pot VR1 to get it as close as possible.
If you have two meters, you can
measure the input current and output
voltage at the same time (the current
meter goes in series with the probe
across the power supply). That will be
a bit more accurate (and easier) than
switching the meter around.
Using it
Due to the high currents that the
probe can handle, probes (alligator clip
wires etc) should not be used unless
both the voltage and current are low
(under 50V DC/AC & 5A).
For higher voltages/currents, you
can cover the exposed wires that are
attached to the binding posts with
heatshrink.
As there is exposed metal on the
binding posts, if any voltage above
50V is applied to the Probe, that end
of the device must be considered live.
Position the Probe so that nobody can
come in contact with that end, and also
to keep the isolated measurement end
away from any high-voltage wiring.
The Probe itself has a high isolation,
but you must ensure that isn’t degraded
by any external shorting hazards. SC
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September 2024
Short-Form Kit
SC6979: $45
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This kit includes everything needed to build
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SC6991: $35
SMD LED Complete Kit
SC6961: $17.50
TH LED Complete Kit
SC6849: $17.50
siliconchip.au/Article/16418
siliconchip.au/Article/16677
Includes either 3mm through-hole or 1206sized SMD LEDs. Choice of either white or
black PCB. CR2032 coin cell not included.
Includes the PCB and all onboard parts. Audio
Breakout board and Pico BackPack are sold
separately.
ESR Test Tweezers
Mains Power-Up
Sequencer
Complete Kit
SC6952: $50
February-March 2024
June 2024
siliconchip.au/Article/16289
This kit includes everything needed to build the ESR Test Tweezers. Does not include the CR2032 (or
CR2025) coin cell or optional 5-pin header CON1.
USB-C Serial Adaptor
Complete Kit
SC6652: $20.00
June 2024
siliconchip.au/Article/16291
Includes the PCB,
programmed
microcontroller
and all other parts
required to build
the Adaptor.
Hard-To-Get
Parts SC6871: $95
siliconchip.au/Series/412
The critical components required to build the
Sequencer such as the PCB, micro etc. Other
components need to be sourced separately.
→ Subscribers receive a 10% discount on all purchases, except for subscriptions (postage is not discounted).
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Battery-Po
Battery-P
owered
Mode
dell Tra
Traiin
BY LES KERR
This modification eliminates the need to keep model railway tracks clean. If you let them oxidise,
power won’t get to the trains, causing all sorts of problems. By making the train battery powered,
it no longer needs to draw power from the tracks, making it much more reliable!
M
y grandson was visiting and he was at
me all the time to let him drive
trains on my OO gauge railway. As
it hadn’t been used for quite a time,
there was quite a build-up of debris
on the track and the engine pickups
that resulted in the first train running
erratically. After laboriously cleaning the track, the trains ran smoothly.
Most of my newer power tools are
battery powered, so I wondered if I
could power the train from onboard
rechargeable AAA cells. These could
be mounted in the carriage behind
the engine, and the speed and direction could be controlled by a simple
433.9MHz link. I calculated that four
fully-charged 900mAh NiMH cells in
series could run the train for more than
five hours on a charge.
With most model train layouts, the
433.9MHz transmitter will only be a
few metres from the train at any time,
so there is little chance of interference. To ensure the train doesn’t go
haywire, check bytes are sent so that
the Receiver can verify the speed and
68
Silicon Chip
direction data it is getting are correct.
This virtually eliminates the possibility that erroneous signals will result
in incorrect operation.
The NiMH battery voltage of around
4.8V is too low to run the motor, so
I selected a small step-up converter
module that produces 15V DC from the
battery voltage to power the motor. It
operates at about 1MHz with an efficiency approaching 90%. Another
small boost converter generates a
steady 5V rail to run the control circuitry.
To drive the engine, I looked at all
the standard H-bridges on the market
and selected the DRV8871 IC that is
mounted on a 24.5 × 20.5mm PCB.
It runs from 5-37V at up to 2A, driving a single motor bidirectionally.
Over-temperature and over-current
protection is built in. It is a bit overkill
for a 12V train that takes about 250mA
maximum, but it could be used with
higher power engines too.
The motor speed and direction are
controlled by a microcontroller on
Australia's electronics magazine
the same PCB as the motor driver that
mounts in the carriage, behind the
engine. This PCB also has a 433.9MHz
receiver to allow remote control.
To cater for various size carriages, I
designed two Receiver PCBs, a small
one using SMD components (carriage
length 185mm) and a larger one with
through-hole (TH) components.
The handheld controller (Photo
1) has a potentiometer that controls
the speed of the train and a toggle
switch to select forward or reverse.
The Transmitter has a PIC12F617
microcontroller that monitors those
controls and sends signals via a
433.9MHz transmitter within the
handheld controller.
A 3mm red LED on the carriage
lights when the battery needs charging.
The fourth PCB I designed is a
trickle Charger (Photo 2) that connects
to a socket on the battery carriage using
a 2.5mm jack plug.
This system of three modules –
Transmitter, Receiver and Charger –
provides everything you need to run
siliconchip.com.au
Photos 1-3: the transmitter (left &
right), and the charger (centre) box.
a model locomotive without requiring an electrical connection (for either
power or communications) through
the track. You can see a video of it in
operation at siliconchip.au/Videos/
Battery+model+train
Transmitter circuit details
The Transmitter circuit is shown in
Fig.1. It is powered by a 9V battery via
on/off toggle switch S1 and a 1N5819
schottky diode. The diode prevents
accidental battery polarity reversals
from destroying the circuit. A schottky
diode is used as its forward voltage
drop is a lot less than a standard silicon diode, so the battery lasts longer.
A 78L05 regulator provides +5V for
the microcontroller. The 100μF capacitors connected to its input and output reduce any ripple to a negligible
level, while the 100nF ceramic or MKT
capacitors reduce any high-frequency
noise that may be present.
So that potentiometer VR1 varies
the train speed, microcontroller IC1
measures the voltage at its wiper using
its internal analog-to-digital converter
(ADC) via analog input AN3. It converts the 0-5V on its wiper to an 8-bit
number between 0 and 255. That value
is sent out as pulses via digital output
GP0 (pin 7), to the transmitter module, to be picked up by the Receiver
on the train.
Digital input GP5 (pin 2) is pulled
Fig.1: the Transmitter circuit. It runs from a 9V battery; microcontroller IC1 and transmitter MOD1 convert the position
of speed potentiometer VR1 and forward/reverse switch S2 into a 433.9MHz-modulated ASK serial data stream for the
Receiver.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
January 2025 69
high by the 10kW resistor when S2
is in the forward direction or low, to
ground, by S2 when it is in the reverse
direction. The microcontroller senses
this level using its GP5 digital input
and sends different numbers via the
433.9MHz transmitter depending on
the switch state. The 100nF ceramic
capacitors at those two inputs prevent noise from affecting the readings taken.
The signal sent to the transmitter
module via the GP0 output is serial
data at 1200 baud that contains the
speed and direction variables, along
with preamble and check bytes. This
433.9MHz module transmits this using
amplitude-shift keying (ASK) via a
quarter-wavelength (173mm long)
wire antenna.
Receiver circuit
The Receiver circuit is shown in
Fig.2. Signals from the Transmitter
are received by the 433.9MHz receiver
module, and the demodulated serial
data is applied to the RC2 digital input
(pin 8) of the PIC16F1455 microcontroller (IC2).
The 8-bit train speed data and the
direction data are extracted and stored
in memory, then used to generate the
pulse-width modulated speed signal
and the direction signal.
Two logic inputs, IN1 and IN2, control the H-bridge driver (IC3). To turn
Fig.3: pulse-width
modulation (PWM)
involves setting the
output high at a fixed
interval, then leaving
it high for a period
ranging up to that
interval. The result
is a varying average
voltage, even though
the output only
switches between
two levels.
the motor in one direction, we apply a
pulse-width modulated (PWM) signal
to vary the speed to IN1 while holding IN2 high. If the train is to run in
reverse, the PWM signal is applied to
instead IN2 while IN1 is held high. To
stop the train, both input are kept at
the same level (both low or both high).
Fig.3 shows the signals for driving
the motor at various speeds.
The battery supply voltage is halved
by the two 10kW resistors and the
resultant ~2.4V is monitored by analog input RA4 (pin 3) of IC2 using its
internal ADC. If the voltage at that pin
falls below 2V (ie, the battery is below
4V), digital output RC4 (pin 6) is taken
low, switching on red LED2 to alert
you that the battery needs charging.
The micro also provides signals to
drive the DRV8871 H-bridge IC. To
turn the motor in one direction, the
PWM signal is applied to digital output RC3 (pin 7), while RC5 is taken
high (+5V). To reverse the motor direction, the PWM signal is applied to RC5
and RC3 is taken high. The higher the
speed value, the faster the motor turns.
When the speed control is near its
minimum position, both RC5 and RC3
are taken low (to 0V), causing the PWM
module to go into sleep mode, reducing the current drawn from the battery. The +5V supply for the receiver
and micro is provided by the S7V7F5
high-frequency voltage up/down converter (MOD4) that takes the 4-6V battery voltage and provides a regulated
+5V output.
If the battery has been recently
charged (it could be as high as about
6V), MOD4 steps down the voltage
Fig.2: MOD2 picks up the data from the Transmitter and feeds it to microcontroller IC2, which decodes it and produces
PWM waveforms for H-bridge motor driver IC3 on MOD5. MOD3 boosts the battery voltage to 15V to run the motor. IC2
also monitors the battery voltage and lights LED2 if it is low.
70
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
to +5V; if it is discharged below 5V,
it steps it up. The 100μF electrolytic
capacitor and 100nF ceramic capacitor reduce any noise or ripple on
the supply. Similarly, the U3V16F15
(MOD3) provides the +15V DC supply
for the motor.
We use 15V instead of 12V to overcome any voltage drop in the tiny
cables connecting the carriage to the
train motor. Polulu recommend in
their data sheet that you add a 47μF
capacitor across the battery input
when using these inverters, which I
have done. Both these modules are
available locally for around $9 each.
There is a 2.5mm switched jack
socket (CON1) so the battery can be
charged. It also allows the battery
power to the Receiver to be switched
off simply by inserting a jack plug.
With the jack plug in the socket, the
battery is connected to the Charger and
disconnected from the Receiver as its
positive side is disconnected.
Charger circuit
Looking at Fig.4, the battery is
trickle charged at C/10 (90mA) for 16
hours unless its output voltage exceeds
6V, indicating the battery is fully
charged. In that case, the charge current is switched off. When the power
pack is switched on, 9V is applied to
the 78L05 voltage regulator (REG2),
which reduces the voltage to +5V to
Photo 4: the 433.9MHz receiver
(above) and transmitter (below)
modules. They are sold under
various model numbers, but this
particular set is very common
to find online. As long as yours
look like these, and don’t have
low-quality soldering, they should
work (avoid the cheapest ones!).
siliconchip.com.au
power the PIC12F617 microcontroller, IC4.
The two 100μF capacitors smooth
out any residual ripple, while the
two 100nF capacitors provide high-
frequency bypassing.
On powering up, digital output GP4
(pin 3) of IC4 pulses the green LED
at 200ms intervals, indicating it is in
standby mode. Pressing the Start button (S3) pulls the GP2 digital input low
(pin 5), causing an interrupt routine
to be triggered that takes the Charger
out of standby mode and puts it into
charge mode. The 100nF capacitor
eliminates any contact bounce from
the pushbutton.
This results in the green LED switching off and the red Charge LED flashing at 500ms intervals. Mosfet Q1
(IRL540N) is switched on by digital output GP5 going high, and the
16-hour countdown timer starts.
When on, the drain of the Mosfet
goes low, connecting the 90mA constant current source to the battery. The
current source comprises the BD136
transistor (Q2), an LM285 2.5V reference diode and a 220W resistor in parallel with a 22W resistor.
It works by holding the PNP base
2.5V below the +9V supply. This sets
the emitter at 1.8V (2.5V – 0.7V), which
matches the voltage across the parallel resistors. They have a resistance of
20W (220W || 22W). With 1.8V across
20W, Ohm’s law (I = V ÷ R) tells us the
current must be 90mA (1.8V ÷ 20W).
The battery voltage is halved by the
two 10kW resistors and applied to analog input GP0 (pin 7) of IC4. Once per
second, it measures the voltage and if
it is above 3V (battery fully charged),
charging stops and the Charger goes
back into standby mode, shown by
the green LED flashing. If the battery
voltage doesn’t exceed 6V, the charging
stops after 16 hours.
The 1N4004 diode (D2) prevents
the battery from discharging if it is
left connected when the charger is
not powered.
The 1N4148 diode (D3) prevents
the ADC input from rising above 5.6V,
although that is unlikely because the
battery would have to be charged to
over 11V. Still, it’s possible CON2
could accidentally be connected to a
voltage source, so it’s better to be safe.
Sourcing parts
The receiver and transmitter modules are available from several suppliers under different part numbers.
Fig.4: this NiMH battery trickle charger will stop charging when the battery
voltage reaches 6V (1.2V per cell) or after 16 hours of charging. Q2, REF1 and
the surrounding components form a 90mA constant current source while Mosfet
Q1 controls whether charging is active.
Australia's electronics magazine
January 2025 71
Programming a microcontroller in-circuit
To program the micro with it in the circuit, you will need to solder wires to the +5V
and 0V rails as well as pin 4 (MCLR), and the pads on the ICSPCLK and ICSPDAT pins.
Those are pins 9 & 10 respectively for the PIC16F1455, or pins 6 & 7 respectively for
the PIC12F617. Connect those wires to your programmer, referring to its manual to see
which wire goes to which pin. For the PICkit 3, the pins are (starting from pin 1) MCLR,
VCC, GND, ICSPDAT and ICSPCLK.
You can download and install the free MPLAB IPE software from the Microchip website and then use the included MPLAB IPE software to open the appropriate HEX file
(which you can download from siliconchip.au/Shop/6/508) and flash it onto the target
chip via your programming hardware.
I have given a couple of examples in
the parts list, but there are many others. Sometimes the part number is for
a transmitter/receiver pair and the
individual parts don’t have individual codes (or they are not specified).
The main thing is to check that what
you are buying looks like the modules
shown in Photo 4. If you type “433MHz
modules” in a search engine, you will
find plenty of suppliers of modules
that look identical or nearly so. Be
careful, though, as I found that one
of the very cheapest suppliers’ modules were poorly soldered and were
unusable.
Construction
Let’s start by building the Transmitter. It is assembled on a single or
double-
sided PCB coded 09110241
that measures 49 × 36mm. During
assembly, refer to the PCB overlay
diagram, Fig.5.
Fig.5 shows the off-board components wired directly to the PCB.
You can do it that way, but it’s easier to instead solder pin headers in
those positions and then cut pairs of
female-female DuPont jumper wires
in half. That way, you can plug them
into the headers and solder the bare
ends to the other components.
You can see from the photos that
I soldered wires to header sockets
instead of using DuPont wires; either
approach can work, but it’s easier and
slightly neater to cut the jumper wires
in half. You can often get them joined
together in a ribbon, making it easy
to split off pairs or sets so they stay
together (like a figure-8 cable).
Start the PCB assembly by fitting the
headers, 8-pin IC socket and the capacitors. The IC socket makes it easier to
remove the microcontroller and reprogram it later if necessary. Take care to
orientate the socket and electrolytic
capacitors correctly. For the electros,
the longer positive lead goes into the
pad nearest the + symbol, with the
stripe on the can indicating the negative end opposite that.
Now add the resistors, which are
mounted vertically, then the 78L05
voltage regulator, 1N5819 diode (with
its cathode stripe facing as shown)
and the 433.9MHz transmitter module. As the clearance inside the Hammond box is less than the height of the
433.9MHz module, the module should
be mounted 20° from vertical towards
the edge of the board (it’s shown as if
it’s laid flat in Fig.5 for clarity).
Make sure all the semiconductors
and the transmitter are correctly orientated. Don’t fit the PIC12F617 microcontroller yet.
If you have purchased it from the
Silicon Chip Online Shop, it will
already have the firmware loaded. If
you wish to program it yourself, you
can download the firmware from:
siliconchip.au/Shop/6/508
To load the firmware onto the chip,
you will need a suitable programmer
and an adaptor socket. For the former,
Fig.5: this shows where components mount
on the Transmitter board and how to wire
it up. While wires are shown soldered
straight to the PCB, we recommend using
headers and wires with DuPont plugs to
make assembly and disassembly easier.
MOD1 is mounted about 20° off vertical so
it fits in the case; it is shown horizontally
here for clarity.
Fig.6: this view from the inside of the case front shows
where to drill the holes. The large one is for the pot
shaft, the 5mm holes are for the two switches and LED,
while the M3-tapped holes are for mounting the board.
If you would rather not tap them, drill them to 3mm
and use extra machine screws (ideally countersunk)
from the outside to fix the tapped spacers.
72
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
you can use a PICkit or Snap programmer (or similar); for the latter, see our
PIC Programming Adaptor (September
2023; siliconchip.au/Article/15943).
Finally, check for any dry solder joints
or solder bridges.
plug the DuPont connectors into the
headers on the board using Fig.5 as a
reference. Make sure everything goes
to the right location, or it won’t work
properly.
Case preparation
With the microcontroller (IC1) out of
its socket, check the orientation of the
battery connector, 78L05 voltage regulator and the 433.9MHz transmitter
module. Connect the 9V battery and
switch it on. The LED on the front
panel should glow. Connect a voltmeter with its red probe to pin 1 on the
IC socket and the black lead to pin 8.
The measured voltage should be very
close to +5V DC.
If not, verify that the 5V regulator is
the correct way round and there aren’t
any solder bridges shorting any tracks
or pins. Assuming it’s OK, switch off
the power and insert the microcontroller. If you have an oscilloscope,
connect it to pin 7 of the IC, with the
Earth connector to 0V.
Switch on and you should should be
able to capture a serial data waveform
at 1200 baud similar to that in Scope 1.
If all is good, attach the back of
the case using the supplied screws
and you are ready to move on to the
Receiver.
Drill and tap the Hammond 1593Y
case as shown in Fig.6. That shows a
view from the inside of the front part
of the case. The large (9.5mm) hole is
for the shaft of VR1, the three 5mm
holes are for the two switches and LED,
and the four M3-tapped holes are for
mounting the PCB.
If you would rather not tap the holes,
you can simply drill 3mm holes and
use screws from both sides (which is
accounted for in the parts list), but it
will look worse and the extra screws
will protrude outside the case unless
you countersink them.
Now refer to Fig.5 and Photo 3 to
see how everything goes together. Fit
the LED, PCB, potentiometer, knob and
toggle switches as shown. Split off the
DuPont cables into sets, cut them in
half, then solder them to the chassis-
mounted parts and battery clip, using
1.5mm diameter heatshrink tubing to
insulate the joints where necessary.
Solder a 173mm length of wire to
the aerial pad on the transmitter module and insulate the other end. Then
Photo 5: these are the Adafruit
DRV8871 (top), Polulu U3V16F15
(lower left) and S7V7F5 (lower
right) modules. We recommend
you solder the right-angle headers
so that they are parallel with the
board (see Fig.2 and Photo 7).
siliconchip.com.au
Testing the Transmitter
Receiver construction
First you must decide which version of the Receiver you want to build.
The all through-hole version is larger
at 74 × 23mm and uses a PCB coded
09110242, while the mixed SMD/TH
version measures just 23 × 30mm with
a PCB coded 09110243.
Both versions share many parts
(all the modules are the same). The
main difference is that the smaller
version uses an SMD microcontroller
and mostly SMD passives. The smallest parts are 2.0 × 1.2mm, so they are
not terribly difficult to handle, and
the IC has a fairly generous 1.27mm
lead pitch.
The surface-mount PCB is the one I
used to fit in my 85mm-long OO gauge
carriage. You will need to use the SMD
version if the TH board won’t fit in
yours; otherwise, the choice is yours.
The first task for both types of PCBs
is to solder the supplied header pins
to both of the Polulu DC/DC converter
modules. Assemble them as shown
in Fig.2, Fig.7 and Photo 6, making
sure that the pins are parallel with
the module PCBs. For the DVR8871
Australia's electronics magazine
Scope 1: this shows the serial data
that’s transmitted via a 433.9MHz
wireless link with the switch in
the forward position and the speed
control at about halfway.
module, you have to add a four-pin
right-angled header; again, make sure
that the pins are parallel with the
DVR8871 PCB.
SMD PCB assembly
Since I etched mine myself, it is a
single-sided design, although you can
get the double-sided version from Silicon Chip, which avoids the need to fit
the two wire links. The surface-mount
components go on the copper side of
the board, while the though-hole components and modules are inserted from
the opposite side. The overlay diagram
(Fig.7) shows both sides.
This is a good project if you are interested in improving your SMD soldering skills, since it has a few different
types and sizes of components. I am
79 and can still manage these parts.
The SOIC-package PIC16F1455
will need to be programmed at some
point. The easiest way is to purchase
a pre-programmed PIC, although it is
possible to program it in-circuit. See
the panel for details if you wish to
do that.
Use a flux pen or a syringe of flux
paste to coat the PIC16F1455 IC’s leads
and its associated pads. Hold the PIC
in place (eg, using tweezers) with the
correct orientation and use your soldering iron to tack solder one lead in
place, then check that it is positioned
correctly. If so, solder the remaining
leads.
Clean off the flux residue and
inspect the leads under magnification
to ensure that all the solder joints have
formed correctly. If you are not sure
about any of them, add more flux and
apply heat (and possibly more solder)
to reflow the joint. If you have bridged
any pins, use more flux and some solder wick to remove the excess solder.
January 2025 73
Fig.7: the SMDs are soldered to the underside
of the small Receiver PCB, as shown at right,
while the through-hole parts mount on the
top. MOD2 & MOD5 are shown on their sides
for clarity but actually mount vertically. You
can solder terminal blocks to MOD5 for the
outputs, or just solder wires directly.
Now use a similar procedure to fit the
remaining SMDs. They are all the same
size except the 47μF capacitor, which is
a bit larger. The 1kW resistors will have
a code like 102 or 1001 printed on top,
while the code for 10kW is 103 or 1002.
The capacitors will not be labelled.
Finally, using an ohmmeter on
its lowest range, check each passive
SMD component across its terminals
to make sure you haven’t accidentally
created any short circuits.
Turn the board over and solder in the
links (if you are using a single-sided
board), the two electrolytic capacitors, and the four modules. Make
sure all the components are the right
way around. The four modules are
mounted at right-angles to the main
board, although some are shown horizontally in Fig.7 for clarity.
The final task is to attach the headers and connect the wires to the red
LED and train motor. Disconnect the
wires that connect the train wheels to
the motor because we don’t want the
rails to act as aerials to radiate interference from the motor brushes.
For my 85mm carriage, the motor
wires are 12cm long, the wires from
the PCB to the connector are 7cm long,
the wires from the jack plug to the PCB
connector are 6cm long, the wires from
the jack plug to the battery connector
are 6cm long and the battery connector wire is 4cm long. All connections
are insulated using heatshrink tubing.
Inside the train engine, the manufacturer should have fitted two inductors in series with the motor wires
(typically around 30μH) and a 100nF
capacitor across the motor terminals
to suppress radiation from the motor
brushes often on a small PCB.
74
Silicon Chip
It is important to have such a circuit, as without it, the radiated signal
can be picked up by the receiver, causing potentially erratic operation. If it
is missing, the train’s manufacturer
should be able to supply a new one.
The wires to the wheels should
be disconnected from the two series
inductors. The engine is powered from
the carriage by a twisted pair of thin
cable that connects from a two-pin
male header to the two series inductors inside the engine.
Finally, connect a 173mm length
of multi-stranded wire to the antenna
terminal of the receiver module. All
connections should be insulated using
heatshrink tubing.
SMD version testing
Connect a voltmeter between the
LED anode (red) wire and the 0V
battery input, and a dual-trace oscilloscope to IN1, IN2 with the Earth connected to the 0V input. Connect a variable power supply to the 4.8V battery
input, with the red wire going to the
positive terminal and the black to the
ground terminal. Slowly increase the
voltage to about 5V; the meter should
read 5V.
Switch on the Transmitter with the
speed control set about halfway. The
oscilloscope should show a 5V peakto-peak 7kHz waveform with about a
50% duty cycle on either IN1 or IN2
(depending on the position of the forward/reverse switch). Increase the
speed to maximum, and the display
should change to a continuous +5V
DC. On reducing it to minimum, you
should see a 6% duty cycle square
wave.
If IN1 shows the 7kHz waveform
then IN2 should be at +5V, while if IN2
shows the 7kHz waveform, IN1 should
be at +5V. Reduce the input voltage to
less than 4V and you should see the
red LED switch on.
If you don’t have an oscilloscope,
you can instead connect a DVM to
either IN1 or IN2 (with the black probe
to ground) and vary the speed potentiometer. The DVM should read the
average voltage of the PWM signal,
meaning it should increase smoothly
as you advance the speed control
clockwise. If it’s stuck at 5V, switch
the DVM probe to the other terminal
(IN1 or IN2).
Through-hole version
If you have long OO gauge carriages
Fig.8: the larger Receiver
board uses all through-hole
parts that mount on the
top. You only need to fit
the three wire links if you
have a single-sided board.
All modules mount
vertically; MOD5’s
component side is
towards the bottom
of the PCB as
shown, while MOD2
has the majority of
its components near
the top edge.
Fig.9 (far right): the 3mm hole is for the LED, while
the 4mm hole is for the jack socket. The slot is for
the wires to exit the carriage and go to the engine.
These are suggestions only; you can customise them
for your carriage configuration.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
or a train that will take the board and
batteries, you might find building this
one a bit easier. Since I etched mine
myself, it is a single-sided design,
although you can get the double-
sided version from S ilicon C hip ,
which avoids the need to fit the wire
links. Refer to the PCB overlay diagram, Fig.8.
Solder in the links (if you are using
a single sided board), the three electrolytic capacitors, the 14-pin IC socket
and DC/DC converter modules, making sure they are orientated correctly.
Then add the headers, MKT/ceramic
capacitors and resistors.
Wire up the red LED and train motor
as shown. The length of the wires will
depend on the size of the carriage you
are using. All connections should be
insulated by using heatshrink tubing.
Through-hole version testing
Check that the components are the
correct way round and there are no
solder bridges on the PCB.
Connect the battery red wire to the
positive terminal of a 5V power supply and the black wire to the 0V terminal, switch it on and use a DVM to
measure the voltage between pin 1
and pin 14 of the IC socket. It should
be very close to 5V. Also check the
15V supply by measure the voltage
between the Vout and 0V terminals
of the U3V16F15 module. The result
should be very close to 15V.
If all is well, fit the DVR8871
H-bridge module, 433.9MHz receiver
and insert the PIC16F1455 chip into
its socket, making sure they are all
Fig.10: the ground wires from the battery pack and PCB are
joined at the ground tab for the jack socket, while the red wires
go to different pins so that the Receiver PCB is switched off
when the jack plug is inserted (for charging, or just to cut the power).
orientated correctly. Connect a 173mm
length of multi-stranded wire to the
antenna terminal of the receiver.
The rest of the testing is the same as
that for the surface-mount version of
the PCB, so refer to that section above.
The wiring lengths are different for this
version, as is the position of the red
LED and jack plug socket. These will
depend on your train’s dimensions.
Mounting the Receiver
The 3mm LED and 2.5mm jack
socket need to be mounted on the carriage, along with an access groove for
the cable connecting to the engine.
Fig.9 shows the suggested carriage
cover modifications to achieve this.
Fit the jack plug socket into the 4mm
hole so that pin 1 is as close as possible to the side of the carriage cover.
Once they are mounted, wire up
the jack socket and battery as shown
in Fig.10. Insulate any exposed connections with 1.5mm diameter heatshrink tubing.
Next, load the battery holder with
fully charged cells and connect the
battery to the jack socket. Connect the
black lead of a DVM to the negative
wire that will go to the Receiver PCB
in the engine, and the red lead to the
positive wire. You should get a reading close to 4.8V (the charged battery
voltage).
Now plug a jack plug into the
socket and check again; the voltmeter should read 0V. Next, measure
the voltage across the jack plug terminals and it should be once again
be close to 4.8V.
Insert the red LED into the 3mm
hole. Fit the PCB and battery holder as
shown in Photo 9. Connect the power
wires to the Receiver PCB, tucking
them and the excess wire down the
side of the battery holder.
Coil the antenna cable and tuck it
down between the PCB and the carriage end that holds the jack socket.
Leave the jack plug in, as this stops
power from the batteries flowing into
the Receiver.
Cover the wheel assembly with a
strip of insulating tape where the bottom of the PCB may contact it. You can
then fit the wheel assembly to the carriage cover.
Final testing
Switch on the Transmitter and set
the speed control to its minimum
position. With the engine laying on its
back, connect it to the carriage. Switch
on the Receiver by removing the jack
plug. Rotate the speed control on the
Transmitter and the engine wheels
should start to move, gaining speed
as the control is rotated further until
maximum speed is reached.
Photos 6 & 7: the top and bottom sides of the prototype SMD version of the
Battery-Powered Model Train Receiver PCB.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
January 2025 75
Photo 8: the through-hole version of the Receiver PCB is much larger than the
SMD version (about twice as wide), but it is easier to assemble due to using
through-hole components.
Photo 9: the SMD Receiver PCB and
four AAA cells just fit into a OO-gauge
train carriage.
Turn the control back down and
the speed should decrease to zero just
before minimum rotation. Repeat with
the forward/reverse switch in the other
position. Switch off the Transmitter
and insert the jack plug to switch off
the Receiver.
the same speed. Switch the Transmitter on again, rotate the potentiometer fully anti-clockwise and the train
should stop.
Insert the jack plug to switch the
Receiver off. If the red LED is lit, plug
in the Charger until the batteries are
charged.
Always stop the train before operating the forward/reverse switch; failure to do so may destroy the motor.
Always switch the Transmitter on
before switching the train on, and
always switch off the train off before
the Transmitter.
This avoids the train running by
itself if in the unlikely event of an
interfering signal that’s interpreted as
valid by the Receiver.
Running the train
Place the engine and assembled carriage onto the tracks and connect the
motor lead and socket. Switch on the
Transmitter and turn the speed control
to minimum and the forward reverse
switch to forward. Remove the jack
plug from the carriage (power on).
Rotate the potentiometer clockwise
and the train should move forward;
its speed should increase with the
advancement of the control.
If it goes in reverse, unplug the
motor leads from the train and reverse
the connections. It should now run
forwards.
Repeat the test with the switch in
the reverse position. With the train
running, switch off the Transmitter;
the train should continue running at
Charger construction
76
Silicon Chip
Fig.11: fit the parts to the
Charger PCB as shown here.
This also shows how to wire the
off-board parts. While wires are
shown soldered straight to the PCB,
we recommend using headers and
wires with DuPont plugs.
The Charger is built on a single- or
double-sided PCB coded 09110244
that measures 63 × 32mm. Its overlay diagram is shown in Fig.11. Once
again, headers are not shown in the
wiring but it’s easiest to use headers
and plugs. Start by fitting the headers,
IC socket, wire link (if needed) and
the capacitors. Take care to orientate
the socket and electrolytic capacitors
correctly.
...continued on page 78
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
ONLINESHOP
SILICON
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PCBs, CASE PIECES AND PANELS
AUTOMATIC LQ METER MAIN
AUTOMATIC LQ METER FRONT PANEL (BLACK)
180-230V DC MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER
STYLOCLONE (CASE VERSION)
↳ STANDALONE VERSION
DUAL MINI LED DICE (THROUGH-HOLE LEDs)
↳ SMD LEDs
GUITAR PICKGUARD (FENDER JAZZ BASS)
↳ J&D T-STYLE BASS
↳ MUSIC MAN STINGRAY BASS
↳ FENDER TELECASTER
COMPACT OLED CLOCK & TIMER
USB MIXED-SIGNAL LOGIC ANALYSER (PicoMSA)
DISCRETE IDEAL BRIDGE RECTIFIER (TH)
↳ SMD VERSION
MICROMITE EXPLORE-40 (BLUE)
PICO BACKPACK AUDIO BREAKOUT (with conns.)
JUL24
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AUG24
AUG24
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CSE240203A
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11104241
23106241
23106242
08103241
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8-CHANNEL LEARNING IR REMOTE (BLUE)
3D PRINTER FILAMENT DRYER
DUAL-RAIL LOAD PROTECTOR
VARIABLE SPEED DRIVE Mk2 (BLACK)
FLEXIDICE (RED, PAIR OF PCBs)
SURF SOUND SIMULATOR (BLUE)
COMPACT HIFI HEADPHONE AMP (BLUE)
CAPACITOR DISCHARGER
PICO COMPUTER
↳ FRONT PANEL (BLACK)
↳ PWM AUDIO MODULE
DIGITAL CAPACITANCE METER
BATTERY MODEL RAILWAY TRANSMITTER
↳ THROUGH-HOLE (TH) RECEIVER
↳ SMD RECEIVER
↳ CHARGER
5MHZ 40A CURRENT PROBE (BLACK)
OCT24
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OCT24
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DEC24
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15108241
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08107241/2
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9049-01
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PRE-PROGRAMMED MICROS
As a service to readers, Silicon Chip Online Shop stocks microcontrollers and microprocessors used in new projects (from 2012 on) and some selected
older projects – pre-programmed and ready to fly!
Some micros from copyrighted and/or contributed projects may not be available.
$10 MICROS
$15 MICROS
ATmega328P
PIC10LF322-I/OT
PIC12F617-I/P
110dB RF Attenuator (Jul22), Basic RF Signal Generator (Jun23)
Range Extender IR-to-UHF (Jan22)
Active Mains Soft Starter (Feb23), Model Railway Uncoupler (Jul23)
Battery-Powered Model Railway Transmitter (Jan25)
PIC16F1455-I/P
Railway Points Controller Transmitter / Receiver (2 versions; Feb24)
Battery-Powered Model Railway TH Receiver (Jan25)
PIC16F1455-I/SL Battery Multi Logger (Feb21), USB-C Serial Adaptor (Jun24)
Battery-Powered Model Railway SMD Receiver (Jan25)
PIC16F1459-I/P
Mains Power-Up Sequencer (Feb24 | repurposed firmware Jul24)
8-Channel Learning IR Remote (Oct24)
PIC16F15214-I/SN Digital Volume Control Pot (SMD; Mar23), Silicon Chirp Cricket (Apr23)
PIC16F15214-I/P Digital Volume Control Pot (TH; Mar23), Filament Dryer (Oct24)
PIC16F15224-I/SL Multi-Channel Volume Control (OLED Module; Dec23)
PIC16F18146-I/SO Volume Control (Control Module, Dec23), Coin Cell Emulator (Dec23)
Compact OLED Clock & Timer (Sep24), Flexidice (Nov24)
STM32G030K6T6 Variable Speed Drive Mk2 (Nov24)
W27C020
Noughts & Crosses Computer (Jan23)
PIC16F1847-I/P
PIC16F18877-I/PT
PIC24FJ256GA702-I/SS
PIC32MX170F256B-I/SO
Digital Capacitance Meter (Jan25)
Wideband Fuel Mixture Display (WFMD; Apr23)
Ohmmeter (Aug22), Advanced SMD Test Tweezers (Feb23)
ESR Test Tweezers (Jun24)
Battery Multi Logger (Feb21), Battery Manager BackPack (Aug21)
ATmega32U4
ATmega644PA-AU
Wii Nunchuk RGB Light Driver (Mar24)
AM-FM DDS Signal Generator (May22)
$20 MICROS
$25 MICROS
PIC32MX170F256B-50I/SO + PIC16F1455-I/SL
Micromite Explore-40 (SC5157, Oct24)
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PIC32MX470F512L-120/PT Micromite Explore 100 (Sep16)
$30 MICROS
PIC32MX695F512H-80I/PT Touchscreen Audio Recorder (Jun14)
PIC32MZ2048EFH064-I/PT DSP Crossover/Equaliser (May19), Low-Distortion DDS (Feb20)
DIY Reflow Oven Controller (Apr20), Dual Hybrid Supply (Feb22)
KITS & SPECIALISED COMPONENTS
- 1.3in OLED for Digital Capacitance Meter (Blue – SC5026; white – SC6511)
- ESP-PSRAM64H 64Mb SPI PSRAM chip (SC7377)
- DS3231 real-time clock SOIC-16 IC (SC5103)
- DS3231MZ real-time clock SOIC-8 IC (SC5779)
COMPACT HIFI HEADPHONE AMP (SC6885)
(DEC 24)
CAPACITOR DISCHARGER KIT (SC7404)
(DEC 24)
Complete Kit: includes everything except the power supply (see p47, Dec24)
Includes the PCB and all components that mount on it, the mounting hardware
(without heatsink) and banana sockets (see p36, Dec24)
PICO COMPUTER
$15.00
$5.00
$7.50
$10.00
$70.00
$30.00
(DEC 24)
For full functionality both the Pico Computer Board and Digital Video Terminal kits are
required, see page 71 in the December 2024 issue for more details.
- Pico Computer Board kit (SC7374)
$40.00
- Pico Digital Video Terminal kit (SC6917)
$65.00
- PWM Audio Module kit (SC7376)
$10.00
FLEXIDICE COMPLETE KIT (SC7361)
(NOV 24)
MICROMITE EXPLORE-40 KIT (SC6991)
(OCT 24)
Includes all required parts except the coin cell (see p71, Nov24)
Includes all required parts (see p83, Oct24)
$30.00
$35.00
DUAL-RAIL LOAD PROTECTOR (SC7366)
(OCT 24)
PicoMSA PARTS (SC7323)
(SEP 24)
COMPACT OLED CLOCK & TIMER KIT (SC6979)
(SEP 24)
DISCRETE IDEAL BRIDGE RECTIFIER
(SEP 24)
DUAL MINI LED DICE
(AUG 24)
AUTOMATIC LQ METER KIT (SC6939)
(JUL 24)
Hard-to-get parts: includes the PCB and all semiconductors except the
optional/variable diodes (see p73, Oct24)
Hard-to-get parts: includes the PCB, Raspberry Pi Pico (unprogrammed),
plus all semiconductors, capacitors and resistors (see p63, Sep24)
Includes everything except the case & Li-ion cell (see p34, Sep24)
$35.00
$50.00
$45.00
Both kits include the PCB and everything that mounts to it (see page 83, Sep24)
- All through-hole (TH) kit (SC6987)
$30.00
- SMD kit (SC6988)
$27.50
Complete kit: choice of white or black PCB solder mask (see page 50, August 2024)
- Through-hole LEDs kit (SC6849)
$17.50
- SMD LEDs kit (SC6961)
$17.50
Includes everything except the case & debugging interface (see p33, July24)
- Rotary encoder with integral pushbutton (available separately, SC5601)
$100.00
$3.00
$12 flat rate for postage within Australia. Overseas? Place an order via our website for a quote.
All items subect to availability. Prices valid for month of magazine issue only. All prices in Australian dollars & include GST where applicable.
HOW TO ORDER
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You can also pay by cheque/money order (Orders by mail only) or bank transfer. Make cheques payable to Silicon Chip.
01/25
Parts List – Battery-powered Model Train
1 500mm length of 1.5mm diameter black or clear heatshrink tubing
various lengths & colours of light-duty hookup wire
(wire for the power to the engine can be from old USB and mouse cables)
Charger
Fig.12: the Jiffy box needs holes
at each end for the power input
and charging output, plus four
countersunk holes for mounting
the PCB, plus three more for the
pushbutton and two LEDs.
Now add the resistors, which are
mounted vertically, the BD136 transistor, IRL540N Mosfet, LM285-2.5V
voltage reference diode, 78L05 voltage
regulator, plus the 1N4148 and 1N4004
diodes. Make sure all the semiconductors are correctly orientated and in the
right places. Don’t fit the PIC microcontroller yet.
If you purchased the micro from
the Silicon Chip Shop, it will already
have the firmware loaded. If you
wish to do this yourself, the files can
be downloaded from siliconchip.au/
Shop/6/508 and we had some comments earlier about ways to program
the chip.
Once the PCB is fully assembled,
check for any dry solder joints or solder bridges. It mounts in a UB3 Jiffy
box that has to be drilled for the LEDs,
78
Silicon Chip
1 single- or double-sided PCB coded 09110244, 63 × 32mm
1 UB3 Jiffy box
1 9V DC 150mA+ plugpack
1 2.5mm mono jack plug (CON2) [Jaycar PP0100]
1 chassis-mount DC socket to suit plugpack (CON3)
1 chassis-mount SPST miniature momentary pushbutton (S3)
1 8-pin DIL IC socket
5 2-way pin headers, 2.54mm pitch
6 female-female DuPont jumper wires, ideally joined in a ribbon
4 M3 × 8mm countersunk head machine screws
8 M3 hex nuts
1 500mm length of single-core screened microphone cable
1 PIC12F617-I/P 8-bit microcontroller programmed with 0911024C.HEX,
DIP-8 (IC4)
1 LM285-2.5 voltage reference diode, TO-92 (REF1)
1 78L05 5V 100mA linear regulator, TO-92 (REG2)
1 IRL540N 100V 36A Mosfet, TO-220 (Q1)
1 BD136/138/140 45/60/80V 1.5A PNP transistor, TO-126 (Q2)
1 5mm green LED (LED3)
1 5mm red LED (LED4)
1 1N4004 400V 1A diode (D2)
1 1N4148 75V 200mA diode (D3)
2 100μF 16V low-ESR radial electrolytic capacitors
3 100nF 50V ceramic, multi-layer ceramic or MKT capacitors
4 10kW ¼W 1% axial resistors
3 2.2kW ¼W 1% axial resistors
2 220W ¼W 1% axial resistors
1 39W 1W 1% axial resistor (for testing)
1 22W ¼W 1% axial resistor
Transmitter
1 single- or double-sided PCB coded 09110241, 49 × 36mm
1 Hammond 1593Y plastic case [DigiKey, Mouser, RS]
1 3-pin 433.9MHz transmitter module, WRF43301R or XLC-RF5 (MOD1)
[Little Bird, AliExpress, eBay]
1 9V battery snap
1 9V battery
1 8-pin DIL IC socket
1 3-way pin header, 2.54mm pitch
4 2-way pin headers, 2.54mm pitch
7 female-female DuPont jumper wires, ideally joined in a ribbon
pushbutton, PCB mounting screws
and power input socket. The drilling
details are shown in Fig.12.
Once the box has been drilled,
attach the red and green LEDs, start
pushbutton and the barrel socket as
shown in the photos.
The PCB is held in place by four
8mm-long countersunk head M3
machine screws and eight M3 hex
nuts. The four extra nuts are used to
space the PCB off the case.
Use DuPont wires to make the
Australia's electronics magazine
connections between the PCB and
the offboard components, as shown
in Fig.11. Insulate all exposed connectors and the wire connections to
the LEDs with 1.5mm diameter heatshrink tubing.
Finish the Charger off by preparing the box, as shown in Fig.12, then
mounting the PCB and all the chassis-
mounting parts to it.
Testing the Charger
Make sure that the microcontroller
siliconchip.com.au
2 SPDT subminiature toggle switches (S1, S2)
1 10kW 16mm linear potentiometer with large knob (VR1)
8 M3 × 6mm panhead machine screws
4 M3 × 6mm tapped hex spacers
1 PIC12F617-I/P 8-bit micro programmed with 0911024T.HEX, DIP-8 (IC1)
1 78L05 5V 100mA linear regulator, TO-92 (REG1)
1 high-intensity 5mm LED, white recommended (LED1)
1 1N5819 40V 1A schottky diode (D1)
2 100μF 16V low-ESR radial electrolytic capacitors
4 100nF 50V ceramic, multi-layer ceramic or MKT capacitors
3 10kW ¼W 1% axial resistors
Receiver (common to both versions)
1 4-pin 433.9MHz receiver module, WRF43301R or XLC-RF5 (MOD2)
[Little Bird, AliExpress, eBay]
1 Polulu U3V16F15 15V output step-up DC/DC converter (MOD3)
1 Polulu S7V7F5 5V output step-up/down DC/DC converter (MOD4)
1 Adafruit DRV8871 motor driver module (MOD5)
4 1.2V 900mAh NiMH AAA cells [Jaycar SB1739]
1 2×2 AAA battery holder with flying leads
1 2.5mm mono switched chassis-mounting jack socket (CON1)
[Jaycar PS0105]
2 4-way right-angle pin header, 2.54mm pitch (for MOD2 & MOD5)
2 female-female DuPont jumper wires, ideally joined together
1 red 3mm LED (LED2)
available from Core Electronics
🔹
🔹
🔹
🔹
Receiver (TH version only)
1 single- or double-sided PCB coded 09110242, 74 × 23mm
1 PIC16F1455-I/P 8-bit microcontroller programmed with
0911024R.HEX, DIP-14 (IC2)
1 14-pin DIL IC socket
3 100μF 16V low-ESR radial electrolytic capacitors
2 100nF 50V ceramic, multi-layer ceramic or MKT capacitors
3 10kW ¼W 1% axial resistors
1 1kW ¼W 1% axial resistor
Receiver (SMD version only)
1 single- or double-sided PCB coded 09110243, 23 × 30mm
1 PIC16F1455-I/SL 8-bit microcontroller programmed with 0911024R.
HEX, SOIC-14 (IC2)
1 100μF 16V low-ESR radial electrolytic capacitor
1 100μF 6.3V radial electrolytic capacitor
1 47μF 16V X5R M3216/1206 SMD ceramic capacitor
2 100nF 50V X7R M2012/0805 SMD ceramic capacitors
3 10kW ⅛W 1% M2012/0805 SMD resistors
1 1kW ¼W 1% M2012/0805 SMD resistor
is not in its socket; at the same time,
check the orientation of all the semiconductors and electrolytic capacitors.
Connect the power supply and switch
it on. Take a voltmeter and connect
the red lead connected to pin 1 of the
empty IC socket, and the black lead to
pin 8. You should measure very close
to +5V DC.
If not, check that the 5V regulator
is the correct way round and there
aren’t any solder bridges shorting
the tracks.
siliconchip.com.au
Assuming it’s OK, switch off the
power, insert the microcontroller and
connect a 39W 1W resistor between the
battery terminals (eg, using clip leads).
Apply power again and the green LED
should flash.
Press the Start button; the green LED
should extinguish and the red LED
should flash, indicating ‘charging’.
There should be about 3.5V across
the 39W resistor, indicating 90mA of
current flow.
To simulate a fully charged battery,
Australia's electronics magazine
Photo 10: the Charger board easily fits
inside a UB3 Jiffy box (or a smaller
case) as shown here and in Photo 3.
disconnect the 39W resistor. The green
LED should then flash, and the red LED
will extinguish. If you want to check
that the timer is working, reconnect
the 39W resistor, press the Start button
again and wait for 16 hours. The red
LED should extinguish and the green
LED will flash.
Using the Charger
When the battery voltage in the carriage falls below 4V, the 3mm LED in
the rear of the carriage glows, alerting
you that the battery needs charging.
Connect the Charger to the carriage
via the 2.5mm jack plug. Switch on
the Charger and press the Start button to begin charging. The Charger
will revert to standby mode (with the
green LED flashing) when the battery
is fully charged.
SC
January 2025 79
Using Electronic Modules with Jim Rowe
TCS230-based
Colour Sensor Module
This interesting module can sense the colour components of any object or light
source in front of it. It does this using an array of 64 tiny photodiodes, and it
has four white LEDs that can illuminate a surface or object. It is compatible with
almost any microcontroller, including Arduinos.
T
hose 64 photodiodes are split
into four groups of 16: one group
to detect red light, one for green, a third
to detect blue, and the fourth to detect
white light. As you can see from the
photos, it is pretty tiny at just 33 × 33
× 30mm. That last depth dimension
includes the four LEDs at the front
and the two 5-pin headers at the rear.
The array of 64 photodiodes it uses
to detect colours are all extremely
small, all inside a single SOIC-8 SMD
device with a transparent top. It is
mounted in the centre of the module’s
PCB and surrounded by a small black
plastic ‘shroud’.
The SOIC-8 device concerned is
the TCS230, made by US firm Texas
Advanced Optoelectronic Solutions
Inc (aka TAOS). They describe it as
a “programmable colour light-to-
frequency converter”.
To give you a better idea of the size
of those 64 photodiodes, the TAOS
data sheet says that they are each only
120μm x 120μm (micrometres) in size
and arranged on 144μm centres.
So the total array of 8×8 photodiodes
measures only about 1.3mm square.
That’s pretty impressive, considering
that 48 of the diodes have their own
colour filter above them!
Inside the TCS230
Fig.1 shows what is inside the
TCS230 sensor chip. On the left, you
can see the 8×8 array of photodiodes,
with the 16 diodes for each colour
arranged in four rows of four and the
four ‘banks’ intertwined so they each
get a ‘fair share’ of the light reaching
the array. Note that the 16 photodiodes in each bank are all connected
in parallel.
The logic block shown to the right
of the array allows you to select which
colour bank you want using the control
inputs S2 and S3 (pins 7 and 8). The
logic levels used to do this are shown
in the table at upper right; for example, with S2 and S3 both low, the red
photodiode bank is selected, while
if they are both high, that selects the
green bank.
The bank select block feeds the
output from the selected photodiode
bank into the current-to-frequency
converter block to its right. It converts
the current from the selected photodiode bank into a square wave with a
frequency directly proportional to the
current level.
The current-to-frequency scaling is
programmable using control inputs S0
and S1 (pins 1 and 2). These work as
shown in the table at the lower right
of Fig.1. If S0 and S1 are both high,
the scaling is 100%, but if S1 is taken
low while S0 remains high, the scaling drops to 20% and so on. If they are
both taken low, the chip is powered
down and there is no output.
Fig.1: a block diagram of the TCS230 sensor chip. Inputs S2 & S3 can be driven low (“L”) or high (“H”) to select the a
subset of the photodiodes (which selects what colour to detect), while S0 & S1 change the current-to-frequency scaling.
80
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.2: the spectral
response curves
for each of the
photodiode
colours from the
TCS230. All of
the curves have
been normalised
such that the
‘clear’ bank of
photodiodes
has an output
frequency scaling
of 100%.
The ‘full-scale’ frequency with
S0 and S1 both high is around 500600kHz, while if S0 is high but S1 is
low, the full-scale frequency drops to
100-120kHz. If S0 is low while S1 is
high, the full-scale frequency drops to
10-12kHz. The scaled-down frequency
ranges allow the device to be used with
lower-cost microcontrollers or applications where period measurement is
more appropriate.
It’s also possible to disable the output from the TCS230 device using the
OE input (pin 3). If pulled high, this
pin turns off the chip’s output at pin
6, while if it’s taken low (to ground),
the chip works normally.
Response curves
The spectral response curves of the
TCS230 are shown in Fig.2. All four
curves are ‘normalised’ to a scaling
where the response of the ‘clear’ bank
of photodiodes is set to 1.0 (or 100%) at
a wavelength of 680nm (nanometres).
The clear bank (black plot) has a
broad response curve covering the
full range of wavelengths from 300nm
to 1100nm, while the red bank (red
plot) is similar but narrower, mainly
covering the range from 570nm to
1100nm.
The plots for the green bank (green
plot) and blue bank (blue plot) are
a bit different, consisting of ‘twin
peaks’ above and below the 680nm
wavelength of the clear and red bank
peaks. Their peaks are also significantly lower than the clear and red
bank peaks.
Visible light is generally considered
to cover wavelengths from 380nm
to 700nm. Ultraviolet light is below
380nm, while infrared is above 700nm.
As you can see, the sensor responds
quite strongly to near-infrared light on
all four banks.
Therefore, for the best accuracy
with visible light wavelengths, an
infrared filter should be placed in
front of it. That would also cut out
the secondary blue peak entirely, and
most of the secondary green peak,
so they would only respond to the
‘wanted’ ranges of 380-570nm and
450-620nm, respectively.
The shroud around the sensor on
the module is threaded; one possible
Fig.3: the TCS230 module is a simple design with few components. Transistor Q1
controls four white LEDs, which are used to illuminate the object being measured.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
reason for that is to allow an IR filter
(and/or a lens) to be screwed in.
The full module circuit
The full circuit of the TCS230-based
colour sensing module is shown in
Fig.3. As you can see, there’s not much
in it apart from the TCS230 chip and
the four white LEDs (LED1-LED4) that
can be used to illuminate objects that
do not produce light themselves.
Connections to the module are via
two 5-pin SIL headers, CON1 and
CON2. Both headers provide pins for
supply voltage Vcc (nominally +5V)
and ground, making it easy to connect
more than one module to a microcontroller. CON1 provides pins for connections to programming inputs S0
and S1, plus another pin to allow control of LEDs 1-4.
On the other side, CON2 provides
pins for controlling inputs S2 and S3,
plus the frequency output from the
TCS230.
Programming inputs S0 and S1 are
provided with 10kW pullup resistors
to the Vcc line, so if no external connections are made to these pins, the
TCS230 will operate at the 100% frequency scaling level by default. The
S2 and S3 inputs (via CON2) have no
pullup resistors because these inputs
must always be driven to select a
photodiode bank.
January 2025 81
Transistor Q1 controls the four
white LEDs (LED1-4) connected
between its collector and the Vcc line
with series 330W resistors. The base of
Q1 is connected to the LED input pin
of CON1 and the Vcc line via another
330W resistor, so the transistor will
power the LEDs by default, unless the
LED pin of CON1 is pulled to ground.
That gives you the option of leaving the LED pin unconnected for the
LEDs to be permanently lit, connecting it permanently to a GND pin to
disable them entirely, connecting a
switch between the LED pin and GND
to control them manually, or driving
the LED pin from the digital output of
a microcontroller, where a high level
will switch them on and a low level
will switch them off.
The only other things to note about
the module circuit are the 330W
resistor in series with the OUT pin
of CON2, presumably to protect the
TCS230 from damage due to excessive load current, and the 10μF and
100nF bypass capacitors between the
Vcc and ground lines to stabilise the
supply voltage.
Connecting it to an Arduino
Fig.4 shows how easily the module
can be connected to an Arduino Uno.
It should be just as straightforward to
connect it to any other versions of the
Arduino, including the new Uno R4
Minima we reviewed recently, or to
many other microcontrollers such as
the Micromite or Maximite.
All you need to do is connect
the module’s Vcc and GND pins to
the +5V and GND pins of the MCU
(microcontroller unit), connect its
S0-S3 programming inputs to four of
the MCU’s digital outputs (IO4-IO7
here) and connect its OUT pin to one
of the MCU’s digital inputs (IO8 here).
Then, if you want to turn the LEDs
on and off, you can connect a switch
as shown. It will leave the module’s
LED pin at ~0.6V when the switch is
open (LEDs on) or pull it to GND when
closed (LEDs off).
What about software?
Regarding the software needed to
use the TCS230 module with an Arduino or any other MCU, Jaycar provides
a listing of a simple sketch to put their
XC3708 module through its paces with
an Arduino Uno or similar. It is worth
a try, but note that their sketch expects
different connections between the
module and the Arduino than those
shown in Fig.4.
It also does not drive the module’s
S0, S1 or LED pins, so the sketch
allows the TCS230 to run at 100% frequency scaling and assumes that you
will have the LEDs permanently on/off
or controlled manually with a switch.
I found a couple of informative tutorials on the internet on using a TCS230
module with an Arduino, and both
provided suitable sketches:
• How To Mechatronics – https://
siliconchip.au/link/abre
• Random Nerd Tutorials – http://
siliconchip.au/link/abrf
The second of these sites provided
the listing of a simple sketch to put
the TCS230 module through its paces,
written by a chap called Rui Santos.
After checking that it expected the
The TCS230 is primarily used to
detect colours in the RGB spectrum,
there’s also the similar TCS3200
which works over a wider range.
module connections shown in Fig.4, I
copied and pasted that into the Arduino IDE, verified and compiled the
sketch and finally uploaded it to my
Arduino Uno.
I then held pieces of red, green, blue
and white card in front of the module
and checked the results in the IDE’s
Serial Monitor window. I found the
output a bit puzzling, so I decided to
analyse what was going on in Mr Santos’s sketch.
I found that in the sketch, he was
using the Arduino language function
pulseIn() to measure the frequency of
the TCS230’s output. When I looked
up that function, I discovered it actually measures the duration (length)
of pulses in microseconds, not their
frequency.
After this discovery, I decided to
adapt Mr Santos’s sketch so that it
would produce the TCS230 output
Fig.4: the wiring diagram
for the TCS230 module to
an Arduino Uno or similar.
A switch can be connected
to the circuit to allow the
four LEDs on the module to
be switched on or off.
82
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
A close-up of
the TCS230
colour sensor.
While not very
apparent on
this photo, if
you look at the
sensor with a
microscope,
you should be
able to see the
photodiode
array. A better
photo can
be seen at:
siliconchip.au/
link/abrg
frequency rather than the pulse duration. And after a bit of trial and error,
I came up with a sketch which did
just that.
A screen grab of the SerialMonitor
window when this sketch was running
is shown in Screen 1, with annotations
indicating which card was in front of
the TCS230 module when the measurements were taken.
As you can see, the colour frequencies that match the card are generally
higher than the others. With the green
card, the blue values were almost as
high as green, suggesting it was more
of an aquamarine (blue-green) colour
than a pure green. When any of the red,
green or blue cards were sensed, the
clear figure was roughly equal to the
sum of the other three figures.
Of course, this sketch is pretty basic.
If you want to use the TCS230 module
for some serious work – identifying
specific colours, for example – you
would need to improve on it considerably. But you should find this
sketch a good place to start. My sketch
is called “TCS230_coloursensormodule_checking_sketch.ino”, and you
can download it from siliconchip.com.
au/Shop/6/324
Where to buy it
The TCS230-based colour sensing
module shown in the photos is currently available from several suppliers, including Jaycar Electronics (Cat
XC3708), for $19.95 plus delivery.
A very similar module, the DFRobot
SEN0101, is also available from suppliers such as DigiKey, Mouser, element14 and RS at prices ranging from
$13.56 to $14.19. But note that the
SEN0101 module lacks the cylindrical black plastic ‘shroud’ around the
SC
TCS230 sensing device.
Output from our sketch adapted from the one by Rui Santos
RED
GREEN
BLUE
WHITE
15:33:39.996 -> Red = 1228 Green = 377 Blue = 484 Clear = 1945
15:33:40.371 ->
15:33:50.353 -> Red = 1213 Green = 377 Blue = 485 Clear = 1901
15:33:50.681 ->
15:34:00.710 -> Red = 447 Green = 729 Blue = 606 Clear = 1736
15:34:01.038 ->
15:34:11.020 -> Red = 447 Green = 729 Blue = 609 Clear = 1773
15:34:11.395 ->
15:34:21.377 -> Red = 437 Green = 1002 Blue = 1683 Clear = 3086
15:34:21.705 ->
15:34:31.687 -> Red = 436 Green = 1002 Blue = 1683 Clear = 3086
15:34:32.062 ->
15:34:42.044 -> Red = 2074 Green = 2192 Blue = 2762 Clear = 6944
15:34:42.372 ->
15:34:52.354 -> Red = 2074 Green = 2192 Blue = 2762 Clear = 6944
15:34:52.682 ->
Screen 1: the sketch produces counts for each photodiode bank that are
proportional to the frequency and thus light intensity.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
Ideal Bridge Rectifiers
Choose from six Ideal Diode Bridge
Rectifier kits to build: siliconchip.
com.au/Shop/?article=16043
28mm spade (SC6850, $30)
Compatible with KBPC3504
10A continuous (20A peak),
72V
Connectors: 6.3mm spade
lugs, 18mm tall
IC1 package: MSOP-12
(SMD)
Mosfets: TK6R9P08QM,RQ (DPAK)
21mm square pin (SC6851, $30)
Compatible with PB1004
10A continuous (20A peak),
72V
Connectors: solder pins on
a 14mm grid (can be bent
to a 13mm grid)
IC1 package: MSOP-12
Mosfets: TK6R9P08QM,RQ
5mm pitch SIL (SC6852, $30)
Compatible with KBL604
10A continuous (20A peak), 72V
Connectors: solder pins at
5mm pitch
IC1 package: MSOP-12
Mosfets: TK6R9P08QM,RQ
mini SOT-23 (SC6853, $25)
Width of W02/W04
2A continuous, 40V
Connectors: solder
pins 5mm apart
at either end
IC1 package: MSOP-12
Mosfets: SI2318DS-GE3 (SOT-23)
D2PAK standalone (SC6854, $35)
20A continuous, 72V
Connectors: 5mm screw
terminals at each end
IC1 package:
MSOP-12
Mosfets:
IPB057N06NATMA1
(D2PAK)
TO-220 standalone (SC6855, $45)
40A continuous,
72V
Connectors:
6.3mm spade lugs,
18mm tall
IC1 package: DIP-8
Mosfets:
TK5R3E08QM,S1X
(TO-220)
See our article
in the December
2023 issue for more details:
siliconchip.au/Article/16043
January 2025 83
Extracting ROM data
from old microcontrollers
Chips like microcontrollers
that require programming
are a significant problem
when repairing equipment.
If that chip fails, can you
get a replacement? Does
the required code even
still exist outside the chips
in service? This article
describes how such critical
data can be preserved for
future repairs.
By Dr Hugo Holden
This CRT-based video display unit
is driven by the MC1468705G2
microcontroller. I wanted to extract the
program data from it so I could clone it
in case the original failed.
B
y the early 1980s, some manufacturers, like Motorola, decided to make
a processor with internal RAM &
ROM. It was a good decision, as that
became the ultimate format for future
microcontrollers. Before that, CPUs
almost universally required peripheral external RAM and ROM chips to
operate.
The separate architecture is greatly
preferred for equipment longevity and
future repairs and restorations. That’s
because ROM ICs can be removed
from motherboards and their contents
dumped at will, preserving the code.
Faulty RAM is easily replaced, too.
As most vintage computer restorers
know, CPUs are generally fairly reliable, more so than RAM and ROM of
a similar vintage.
The popular ROMs at the time were
various types of UV-erased EPROM.
They have an attractive clear quartz
window to allow for UV erasure, and
you can see the IC die inside. Early
types often had very large dies and are
quite beautiful to examine.
However, there usually isn’t any
provision to get the data out of a microcontroller. So unless you can somehow
get a hold of the original files used to
84
Silicon Chip
program them, there is no way to generate replacements. Or is there?
In the past, when I tried getting
the original ROM file from the manufacturer, I had no luck. The original
data files probably went into the bin
decades earlier, like the Apollo 11
computers did.
Generally, microcontrollers like the
MC1468705G2 are used in systems
controls, especially designs with touch
buttons, key scanning and memory
for settings.
The microcontroller that’s the subject of this article was deployed in
a 1980s vintage high-quality colour
VDU (video display unit) made by
Conrac. Conrac, based in California,
was America’s premier CRT-based
VDU maker.
CRT-based VDUs are no longer
manufactured. If this microcontroller failed, the Conrac VDU would be
completely useless. Hence the desire
to back up its contents.
This sort of problem will be encountered more and more as time passes.
Many modern appliances and equipment run internal firmware, which is
usually not made publicly available.
How will these devices be repaired
Australia's electronics magazine
without factory support when they
get older?
Clearly, if we want to repair and
keep many vintage appliances (as they
will be in the future) working, we will
have to put our thinking caps on to
figure out ways of extracting program
data from many modern processors.
In some cases, security locks make it
even harder.
Therefore, the purpose is not to copy
manufacturers’ firmware to make rival
equipment and sales but to keep vintage apparatus running. This helps
prevent piles of e-waste from discarded products when they can be
repaired and kept in use. It is unlikely
that preserving this data from machinery that is decades old would greatly
impact sales of new goods.
From this point, I will refer to
the original Conrac-programmed
MC1468705G2 in the VDU I wanted
to clone as the MCUC and blank
MC1468705G2 chips I bought to clone
the program onto as MCUTs.
The MC1468705G2
Motorola described this device
as a high-performance CMOS silicon gate technology 8-bit EPROM
siliconchip.com.au
microcomputer. It contains user-
programmable, UV-erasable EPROM
non-volatile memory, an oscillator,
CPU and RAM. It also has an internal
boot-loader program so that the micro
can program itself without requiring
an external programmer device, aside
from some simple hardware.
The MC1468705G2 has 112 bytes
of onboard RAM, 2096 bytes (2KiB) of
user-programmable ROM at locations
0x080 to 0x8AF, plus 11 extra bytes for
programming the MOR (Mask Option
Register and Vectors) at memory locations 0x1FF5 to 0x1FFF. This IC has
32 bi-directional I/O lines. The CPU
was internally similar to the ubiquitous Motorola 6800.
The manufacturers set it up so the
user program bytes were placed in
an external 8KiB ROM (such as an
MCM68764 or MCM68766) in a ZIF
socket on the programmer board.
When the MC1468705G2’s bootloader
was activated, it transferred the bytes
in the external ROM into the micro’s
internal ROM, a one-way trip for the
data file.
This programming event occurred
when the reset switch on the programmer board was released. The self-
programming was said (in the data
sheet) to take 200 seconds or just over
three minutes, ie, 100ms per byte. The
verify program was then said to run for
eight seconds.
I have yet to determine why this
was stated, as it is certainly not the
case for the micros I have. Possibly
those remarks only relate to the early
version MJ3 mask variants. With the
micro clocked by its usual 1MHz crystal, it takes only about one second to
program the device, and the verify
protocol takes another second to check
all 2107 bytes.
Fortunately, the verify program
can be made to run separately, as
this program is the key to extracting
the micro’s ROM data. It might have
been possible to do what I did even
if I had to run the programming and
verify sequence together, by disabling
the micro’s Vpp programming voltage;
however, that would have doubled the
processing time.
It appears that no program (firmware) was placed in the micro to export
the ROM data from it, or at least nothing was documented by Motorola.
There have been suggestions that this
micro contains an “undocumented
protocol” to export the files. However, without details on that, the bytes
remain trapped within.
The programmer board
I realised that I would have to
become familiar with programming
this micro to have any hope of extracting the internal ROM data. If I was
going to be 100% certain that I had
extracted an accurate byte file from
inside the IC, I would have to know
what to expect.
To this end, I bought three newold-stock MC1468705G2 micros and
erased them, ready for programming.
The next step was to build the
Motorola programmer board, described
in Motorola’s Application Note
AN907A. It includes the circuit diagram and PCB patterns. Photo 1 shows
the board I had made. I altered the PCB
design a little by adding extra jumpers,
for example, to run it from an external
clock, to experiment with the IRQ line
and to ground the Vpp line to disable
micro programming while conducting
some experiments.
I also added headers to monitor the
address lines, PA7 to PA0 and PD4 to
PD0, corresponding to address lines
A0 to A12. These were useful to monitor with a logic probe in the experimental stages of the project.
In the Program & Verify mode, the
microcontroller is held in reset by S2
being closed. +5V and -18V power is
then applied via switch S1, then S2 is
opened, releasing it from reset. Then
the internal boot loader code runs,
transferring the programming bytes
from the 8KiB external ROM in the
24-pin socket into the micro. The Verify protocol runs after that.
DIP switches S3, S4 & S5 are all
closed in Program & Verify mode. To
run just the Verify mode, S3 is left
open.
The board can be powered from +5V
DC and -18V DC external power supplies or a 24V centre-tapped mains
transformer. If a transformer is used,
it is necessary to link out the -18V regulator IC. Because I ultimately used
this board to power a “Data Extraction
Machine” (DEM) via the 24-pin ZIF
socket, I had to increase the 100μF
filter capacitors to 1000μF.
Extracting the ROM data
In the Verify mode only, after release
from reset, the CPU marches through
all of the addresses in a sequence starting at 0x080 (decimal 128) for 2096
bytes, then it skips to address 0x0FF5
to verify the data in the MOR (mask
option register) and then 0x0FF6 to
0x0FFF to verify the Vector locations.
This adds 11 bytes, the total being
2107 bytes.
Photo 1: I made this programmer
board using the circuit from the
Motorola data sheet. I added a few
jumpers for flexibility.
Photo 2: this Motorola
MC1468705G2 microcontroller
was one of the early examples
with onboard RAM and nonvolatile storage; in this case, UVerasable EPROM.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
January 2025 85
If all the bytes loaded to the micro’s
internal ROM match the external one,
the micro switches on the verify LED
and the address lines go to zero and
stay there.
However, if a byte does not match
between the micro’s internal byte file
and the byte in the external ROM, the
verify LED never lights.
That is because the micro stops
(stalls) the verification process. The
program stops executing. Mercifully, the micro’s address lines stay
on the exact address of the defective
or mismatched byte. It does not keep
incrementing the address or reset
the address lines to zero in this condition. It stays there until the micro
is reset.
This creates the opportunity for
data extraction by an external device
in place of the external ROM. The
idea is to keep changing the byte in
the external ‘ROM’ while repeatedly
cycling the verify program until the
byte matches and the verify program
moves on to the next byte (at the next
higher address) and so on, until the
entire ROM passes verification.
How long might this data extraction
Photo 3: my Data Extraction Machine. It plugs into the programmer board and
continuously verifies the contents of the microcontroller against data in the
onboard NVRAM, adjusting the data in the NVRAM one byte at a time until it
matches the microcontroller code.
Photo 4: the DEM plugged into the programmer board and well into the process
of extracting the data, as you can see from the high address it has reached.
86
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
process take? It appears to take around
one second from when the micro is
released from reset to verify the entire
byte file. As it’s quicker if the verification fails earlier, across the entire
ROM, that means an average of about
half a second per attempt.
In the best-case scenario, the trial
byte would match on the first attempt.
In the worst case, it could require 256
counts. So we can guess that, on average, it will take 128 attempts to extract
one byte; about one minute at two per
second. With a little over 2000 bytes to
extract, that’s 2000 minutes or about
36 hours (one-and-a-half days).
This system works by initiating verification, then monitoring the lower
address lines, A0 and A1, for activity.
If the activity stops for slightly longer
than it takes to skip over the address,
when the byte at the address verifies
normally, that means the verification
has failed. The emulator increments
the trial byte to the next value, then
pulses reset to re-run the Verify process.
Conrac did not use all the user-
programmable address space in the
micro. The usable range is 0x080 to
0x08AF, but they actually used 0x100
to 0x7F9 and left the rest of the bytes
as 0x00.
There were also some zones in the
used address range that were not programmed (all 0x00). If we set the trial
bytes to start at zero, that will significantly accelerate the process.
Having built and programmed the
DEM, I found that it matched around
200 bytes per hour in the early phase
of the file, slowing to around 28 bytes
per hour towards the end. It took 26.2
hours to complete the process.
At the end of the process, a Dallas
DS1225 NVRAM IC holds a record of
what is in the micro’s internal ROM.
This is exactly the same byte file that
was used to program the micro in the
first instance. Essentially, this tool
reverses the function of the Motorola
programmer board and ultimately puts
the micro’s byte file back into the external NVRAM.
After the process is complete,
the contents of the DS1225 can be
extracted using a GQ-4x ROM reader,
or similar, and the file saved. As the
DS1225 now contains the correct data,
it can also be used to program a fresh,
blank micro.
While I probably could have
shortened that by reducing the time
siliconchip.com.au
Fig.1: this ‘cycle generator’ is responsible for determining when to trigger the next verification process. It waits until it’s
sure the last verification step has failed before resetting the microcontroller and initiating the next one.
constants on the DEM, ultimately, it
was the speed that the Verify firmware
runs that was the primary determinant
of the total time taken. I was much
more interested in reliable byte recovery than a quicker extraction.
The Data Extraction Machine
I designed the DEM board, shown
in Photo 3, to plug into the 24-pin
ZIF socket on the Motorola programmer board. Because any intermittent
connection could ruin the long timeframe process, I didn’t use a breadboard or regular protoboard, but built
it on a plated-through PCB with each
connection carefully soldered.
I covered the wiring side of the
board with a styrene sheet to prevent
accidental short circuits to the programmer board below.
This board also obtains 5V power
from the ZIF socket. Photo 4 shows
the DEM plugged onto the ZIF socket
on the programmer board. The
siliconchip.com.au
rectangular hole in the DEM is for
access to the ZIF socket’s release arm.
Most of the DS1225 NVRAMs in
my stock now have discharged internal lithium batteries. Therefore, the
DS1225 I have plugged into the DEM
has an external lithium ‘support’. This
is connected by milling the plastic casing down to the + battery terminal in
the module, which, in this variant, is
on the module’s top.
Many other DS1225s have the battery at the bottom, making it more
awkward to gain a connection to the
battery’s + terminal. The negative terminal is pin 14 of the IC.
With the additional current consumption on the 5V rail, it is worthwhile adding a flag heatsink to the
7805 voltage regulator on the programmer board (this can be seen in Photo
4). Also, as mentioned earlier, the two
100μF supply filter capacitors were
increased to 1000μF.
There are three plug-on wire links
Australia's electronics magazine
between the two boards. One is from
the reset switch on the programmer
board (it was isolated from the micro
reset line by cutting the link track);
the second is a feed to the micro’s
reset pin.
The third is to transistor Q6’s collector on the programmer board. This
line goes low when the green verify
LED activates, inhibiting the machine
cycle of the monostable IC8 pin 3 on
the DEM. Capacitor C1 is removed
from the programmer board.
Fig.1 shows the machine cycle
(MC) generator on the DEM. Its job is
to identify when the verify protocol
has stalled due to a mismatched byte.
The DS1225 on the DEM acts as a
stand-in for the usual ROM with the
source data that would have been in
the 24-pin ZIF socket for programming the micro. Delay timers, based
on BS270 Mosfets, give reliable detection of the absence of address activity
but with a slow enough response time
January 2025 87
that correct sequential bytes are prevented from being stepped over as the
verification process proceeds.
The system starts with the DS1225
blanked (all bytes = 00). If the file does
verify, no MC pulses are generated.
One of the problems with detecting dynamic address changes is that
initially, the verify cycle starts at the
address decimal 128 (0x080), with
address lines A0 and A1 low. They
remain low if there is a failure to verify. This means the circuit must be
designed to create a machine cycle
if the address is stuck at 128 for long
enough.
After that, though, the value 128 can
be ignored. That could have been done
by detecting the value of 128 across all
the address lines. I decided to do it a
different way, by detecting address 129
and using it to set a flip-flop.
That was because this is no longer
a concern once address 128 has been
passed, which happens in the first
minute or so. So, I can inhibit the 128
signal from that point using IC6 pin 12
and use the flip-flop output to light an
indicator LED from its Q output terminal. This LED shows that everything
is working, and the first byte was successfully matched.
Because the Conrac micro was
programmed for all zeros between
addresses 128 and 255, the dynamic
address detector, monitoring activity on address lines A0 and A1, was
active right from the start. So it turns
out I did not actually need the 128/129
fixed address detectors. But of course,
I would have needed a crystal ball to
know that in advance!
The MC signal drives the memory controller circuit shown in Fig.2.
Once a byte mismatch is detected and
address activity stalls, the trial byte
counter is incremented and written
to the current address (that the verify
program stalled on) in the NVRAM.
Then the system reset is auto-pulsed
by monostable IC10’s pin 12. This
allows the micro to have another go at
matching the new byte at that address
in the NVRAM.
Monostables IC8 & IC10 generate the
required pulses to increment the trial
byte counter (based on a 74LS393),
write the new value to the Dallas
NVRAM and provide the reset pulse
after the MC is complete.
With the bytes in the Dallas NVRAM
being all initially 00, the initial block
of 00s verifies very quickly, as does
a block at the trailing end of the user
program area.
The MC signal is used to tristate
(make high-impedance) the DS1225’s
data pins since they are used as outputs when the programmer board is
doing its verification but as inputs
when incrementing the trial byte values.
The MC pulse could be shortened
to 5ms, but calculations suggest that
would shave less than one hour off
the extraction time. Most of the delays
are in the time it takes the micro to
run the verify program after resets,
especially later in the process. I used
relatively long monostable pulses in
the 1.5-millisecond range to be 100%
Fig.2: the microcontroller on the programmer board sets up the address lines for the NVRAM (IC14). If IC13 is active,
data from the NVRAM can be read back via D0-D7 on the programming socket. When the data in the NVRAM needs to be
updated, IC13 is deactivated and IC12 is activated to drive the NVRAM data lines with the next value from counter IC9.
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Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
sure that everything was stable for the
NVRAM writes.
Address displays
Since acquiring the bytes from the
micro takes a moderate amount of
time, a progress indicator of some kind
is desirable. I decided to use hexadecimal LED displays to show the address
of the byte undergoing the matching
process.
The display is stable because the
display modules have internal data
latching. I used the Q2 output of
monostable IC8 (at pin 12) to latch the
current address undergoing matching
into the displays.
The Innocor INL0397 display modules I used are low-current CMOS versions equivalents to the famous Texas
Instruments TIL311.
I noticed that when the verification
process has not started or is complete,
address lines A0 through A12 are tristated by the micro, and sit at a high
impedance.
Because of that, I added 10kW pulldown resistors on these address lines
to make sure they were not susceptible
to noise pickup in that state, and to be
sure that after power up, the displays
showed 0x0000.
To reduce the display brightness
and current consumption, the display
modules are blanked 50% of the time
using a square wave oscillator, provided by two spare gates in IC4. The
circuit of the address display part of
the module is shown in Fig.3.
Unexpected findings
The MCUT devices, having similar markings to the MCUC and similar date codes (none of them being
the alternative early MJ3 mask set
versions), would all initiate the verify protocol when released from
reset and in the verify mode, without -18V applied to the programmer
board. This supply is used to apply
a zener-regulated -14V to the micro’s
IRQ pin (pin 2).
I preferred to keep that -18V supply disconnected. Also, I permanently grounded the Vpp pin (pin 3)
of the micro with jumper J1 and had
DIP switch S3 open for “Verify Only”
mode. I didn’t want to accidentally
damage the file by unintentionally
programming the original Conrac
MCUC!
When I put the precious Conrac
MCUC into the programmer board
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Fig.3: the four displays directly read the binary address data and display it in
hexadecimal (0-9 and A-F). The oscillator built from IC4b and IC4c halves their
brightness using PWM control with a 50% duty cycle.
and released it from reset (as I had
done for all the other MCUTs I had
been using), it sat there doing nothing, and the verify program did not
execute. Gulp!
This was a somewhat horrifying
moment after all the work I had put
into designing & building the data
extraction system! After some experimentation, I found that the MCUC
requires the -14V applied to the IRQ
pin, or the verification process will
not start.
The MCUTs all started the process
with that pin at 0V until I programmed
them with the recovered Conrac byte
file, and it became clear what was
going on.
When programmed with the
extracted Conrac data, the MCUTs also
required the -14V supply on their IRQ
pin, behaving as the original Conrac
MCUC does. The reason was that the
MCUTs had been programmed with
random byte data for my experiments,
including the MOR register, and that
affects how the micro responds when
released from reset.
Conclusion and outcome
I have been able to program three
blank micros with the original ConAustralia's electronics magazine
rac file, and they all work perfectly in the Conrac VDU. My Data
Extraction Machine is possibly the
only one currently in existence for the
MC1468705G2 microcontroller.
The method outlined here may
work for other similar microcontrollers as long as they have some sort of
verification feature. Enough detail is
presented in this article for anybody
to build their own Data Extraction
Machine. My design also requires the
Motorola programming PCB, although
the entire device could be built onto
one PCB.
To come full circle, I programmed
the data file retrieved from the Conrac-
programmed micro into a pair of vintage MC68766 UVEPROMs (as recommended by Motorola) as the external ROM device on their programmer
board. To do this, I had to deploy my
vintage BP Micro-Systems 1400 programmer, as new-generation programmers do not commonly support this
UVEPROM.
This programmed ROM represents
what Conrac would have had in their
factory in the 1980s. It verifies with
the original micro from the VDU and
the three replica micros I made as
spare parts.
SC
January 2025 89
SERVICEMAN’S LOG
Relating a range of rambling repairs
Dave Thompson
Dave has been recruited by a shadowy organisation currently attempting
to master the art of underwater sheep herding. While he is on an
intensive four-week course learning to speak dolphin, we have a few
stories from readers. Regular service resumes next month.
My work laptop is connected via gigabit LAN. Unfortunately, there is only one spare LAN port in the rumpus room, so if I need to use my private laptop, it has
to rely on WiFi. We have two access points that are reasonably centrally located on the ceilings of both floors
of the house. When all is well, we get usable transfer
rates of 300Mb/s.
Recently, I was using my personal laptop to run a Microsoft Teams session to communicate with my coworkers
on Brisbane’s cross-river rail project, located in the Brisbane CBD. I found that my laptop could not connect to the
WiFi, so I had to resort to using a mobile phone instead.
After the session finished, I set about determining the
cause of the problem. Initially, I suspected the laptop
because the WiFi driver had been reinstalled recently, but
I noticed that my phone was not connected to WiFi either.
I went to the downstairs access point and saw that none of
its three indication LEDs were lit.
The hardwood floor and a few plasterboard walls do a
really good job of blocking both the 2.4-2.5GHz and 5.25.9GHz WiFi signals. Our
network switch powers the access point
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Silicon Chip
via power-over-Ethernet (POE). Disconnecting and reconnecting the network cable to force a reboot did not produce any joy.
The network switch is a second-hand enterprise-grade
item (Cisco C3560X-24P), capable of supplying 30W from
all 24 ports simultaneously. I tried another port on the
switch, in case its POE hardware had failed on that port,
but that also failed to make a difference.
A final check was to put a basic continuity tester on the
ends of the patch lead to the switch and the patch lead
to the access point. This proved the patch leads and the
house’s fixed wiring were good.
Alexandra Hills is less than 4km from Moreton Bay as the
crow flies, and we are on reasonably high ground, which
results in salt corrosion. We had to replace some of the
RJ45 sockets that were installed in the early 2000s, before
WiFi was affordable.
By now, it was reasonably clear that the access point
had failed. The access points require 15W (17W peak from
Cisco’s data sheet), so they run reasonably hot. The oncewhite plastic housing is now very yellowed and, in places,
verging on brown. My initial thoughts were that I might
get lucky and that failed electrolytic capacitors could be
the cause of the problem.
I opened the case by removing the four Phillips head
screws concealed by rubber feet. This revealed a roughly
square printed circuit board with five pressed metal antennas attached to the case. There were four aluminium electrolytic capacitors, with at least one showing signs of distress (a slightly convex end).
The access points can be powered from a 12V DC adaptor, which had to be purchased separately. Because it was
intended to use POE, no approved adaptor was available.
After a quick look around the house, I found a potentially
suitable adaptor.
Using the adaptor with the access point connected to a
switch without POE capability, it booted up displaying an
amber power LED and two flashing green LEDs (LAN and
WiFi). Checking the installation guide confirmed that the
power LED is supposed to be green for POE and amber for
12V DC power.
I forced my phone to connect to the access point by turning its WiFi feature off and on again while in close proximity to it. Using the access point’s web interface, I verified that the phone was connected to that access point.
Now there was a realistic prospect that the access point
was repairable.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Items Covered This Month
• Repairing a Cisco WAP371 access point
• A recurring fault
• Failures in bench grinders
• ... and another problem to grind
• Fixing a Ryobi electric lawn mower
Dave Thompson runs PC Anytime in Christchurch, NZ.
Website: www.pcanytime.co.nz
Email: dave<at>pcanytime.co.nz
Cartoonist – Louis Decrevel
Website: loueee.com
The electrolytic capacitors are all through-hole components, so I needed access to the other side of the PCB.
There were no retaining screws for the PCB. It was located
in the dished top of the case (when ceiling mounted) by
bosses that prevented contact with the screws retaining
the relatively flat lid.
The holes in the PCB were visually larger than the bosses,
so it was reasonable to expect that the board could be
removed without any significant force. Before proceeding,
I disconnected the three black coax cables to the antennas
from the PCB.
The remaining two grey coax cables were directly soldered to the board, but it looked like it would be possible
to flip the PCB over without disconnecting the cables; this
was a big mistake. The board proved to be a very tight fit
on the bosses and required some leverage to release it. It
came free with a jerk that broke one of the antennas off the
tiny plastic spigots retaining it.
I desoldered the other antenna, freeing the board from the
case. The next mistake I made was not immediately desoldering the antenna that was still attached to the board. The
coax braid was severed during subsequent testing, and the
repair required the cable to be shortened and stripped for
re-termination. Given that the coax has an outer diameter
of less than 3mm, it was a challenging task.
Examining the board,
the circuitry associated with the LAN
side of the power
and communication circuitry could
be clearly identified due to a several-
millimetre-wide band
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of translucent board substrate separating it from the rest
of the circuitry.
The band was bridged by the switch-mode power supply transformer, an opto-isolator (for voltage regulation
feedback), the LAN transformer and several very chunky
surface-mounted ceramic capacitors.
Only the electrolytic capacitor associated with the LAN
side of the power supply tested good in-circuit. The capacitor that looked likely to be the filter capacitor on the secondary side of the power transformer (CP9) measured as a
short circuit. I recorded the capacity and voltage ratings of
the capacitors in preparation for their removal.
Removing the three suspect capacitors was not particularly easy, even with a professional vacuum desoldering
tool. The use of lead-free solder, large ground planes and
possibly a multi-layer board meant that a lot of heat and
time was required to melt the solder. The process was aided
by applying some additional lead/tin solder to improve the
heat transfer. After removal, all the capacitors failed outof-circuit testing.
The bad news was that there was still a short across
CP9’s pads, even without the capacitor fitted. There were
several reasonably large surface-mounting diodes near
the secondary side of the transformer, all of which passed
basic diode tests.
Closer still to the transformer was an 8-pin package
(QP3) labelled 9476GM, which looked like it should be an
IC. A web search found a data sheet for a 60V 7.8A Mosfet in an 8-pin SOIC package. There was a very low resistance between its source and drain connections and the
pads of CP9.
At this point, the penny dropped; the power supply
was using synchronous rectification to improve efficiency.
Removing QP3 using a hot air rework tool eliminated the
short across CP9’s pads. Out-of-circuit testing of the Mosfet indicated a high-quality source-to-drain short circuit.
An internet search for a supplier of a direct replacement proved fruitless but a filtered search on element14’s
website for the package and Vds rating came up with the
SQ4850CEY as a potential substitute (rated at 60V, 12A).
Additional checks on its Vgs threshold, on-resistance and
maximum permissible gate-source voltage confirmed it as
a viable substitute.
I ordered that Mosfet plus some replacement capacitors,
all low-ESR, 105°C rated parts from the Panasonic FN series.
The rest of the repair was reasonably painless. I used
hot-melt glue to retain the antenna that had broken free
during dismantling. The repaired access point appeared
to work normally. The only peculiarity was that when
the access point was returned to its normal location, it
would not work.
The switch diagnostics claimed that the switch was
working normally. However, the switch’s log file revealed
that the relevant port had detected a current overload on
many occasions prior to the access point being removed for
repair. After rebooting the switch, the access point worked
on the port to which it was originally connected.
It is possible that the switch has an undocumented feature that causes it to give up trying to supply power after
a large number of overcurrent events.
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January 2025 91
As a precaution, I have replaced the capacitors in the
upstairs access point. This was an interesting learning
experience and helped justify acquiring quality soldering tools when I retired. Replacing them with comparable
WiFi 6 access points would cost around $600. We don’t
currently have any devices that would benefit from WiFi
6 (802.11ax).
D. H., Alexandra Hills, Qld.
Intercom woes and a recurring test equipment fault
I used to work as an RF technician for a commercial TV
station in Brisbane, before and during the transition from
analog to digital terrestrial TV. One day, the chief engineer
asked me to fix the intercom on the transmission tower.
It was an Aiphone brand installed by a separate company
several years ago, before I commenced working there.
There were handsets in master control, the base of the
tower and several platforms up the tower. Even though we
had VHF radios, and ‘phones for comms, it was needed
as a backup.
Since its installation, it had been very noisy and basically unusable. That was put down to the interference
from all the RF floating around on the tower. There was
the main VHF TV transmitter, various radio base stations,
microwave links etc. Intermodulation products could also
be present from various RF sources mixing together on the
large metal tower.
There was no documentation available for the installation, just a basic Aiphone user manual that was a couple
of pages, with some basic wiring, showing connection with
an AC adaptor for power.
I just had my trusty Fluke multimeter, so I thought I would
start at the handset in Master Control, as it was inside, out
of the weather. As with other fault-finding, I decided to
check the power supply first.
When I opened the cover, there was a terminal strip with
several unlabelled white wires. There were also two white
wires connected to the only marked terminals, identified as
+ and −. When checking power supplies, it’s good to take
a reading with both the DC and AC ranges to see what is
going on. The result was a surprise; I measured 13V AC and
basically no DC, when it was clearly labelled DC!
I was expecting DC with maybe some AC ripple. Now
the problem was: where was the power supply? Luckily,
the station electrician remembered that it might be in the
switchboard at the base of the tower. With his help, we
removed the cover panel and found a Bell transformer that
was the power supply we were chasing.
The wiring matched, and it was definitely putting out 13V
Servicing Stories Wanted
Do you have any good servicing stories that you would like
to share in The Serviceman column in SILICON CHIP? If so,
why not send those stories in to us? It doesn’t matter what
the story is about as long as it’s in some way related to the
electronics or electrical industries, to computers or even to
cars and similar.
We pay for all contributions published but please note that
your material must be original. Send your contribution by
email to: editor<at>siliconchip.com.au
Please be sure to include your full name and address details.
92
Silicon Chip
AC – which did seem to match that Aiphone diagram, but I
think there was confusion about the designation. Because of
its location, rather than replace the transformer, I installed
a bridge rectifier and a couple of big electros in a Jiffy box.
The system performed perfectly now on a DC supply
– there was no RF interference! The chief engineer was
happy, and I earned a pay rise over it!
I have a second repair story. Silicon Chip or EA published a couple of component checker adaptors for CROs.
They were basically a low-voltage AC plugpack with a
resistive voltage divider to deliver 1V AC to the probes
of the oscilloscope in X/Y mode. They were really useful
for testing components in unpowered equipment without
removing them.
It would quickly show on the screen if a component was
OK. For example, a diode would give a hockey stick shape,
capacitors would be ovals, resistors a diagonal line etc.
That was great if you had a known-good board and a bad
board; you could quickly compare the waveforms between
the same component on the two boards.
We used a Hewlett Packard 5342A microwave frequency
counter for testing TV microwave links. It was used in conjunction with N-Type 20W dummy loads, N-Type pads and
a DC blocker. Every couple of years, it would stop working
and have to be sent out for repairs. The boss blamed us for
not being careful enough when using it.
When it died the last time, the boss decided the company had spent enough money on repairs and ordered a
new model. As the older unit was now destined to gather
dust on a shelf, I thought I might as well have a look at it.
I got the repair information from the last time it was sent
away – it stated: replaced 12V regulator and performed
calibration – $5,000!
It had several power supplies, including 12V DC and
5V DC outputs. I removed the 12V regulator and it was
indeed dead.
Before replacing it with a new one, I checked the load
with an ohmmeter with the unit unpowered. The 12V rail
seemed to have a very low resistance to Earth. The unit
had about eight PCBs plugged into a motherboard, with a
diagonal black line across the top so you can see instantly
if they are in the correct order.
I unseated them one by one and found one board that
was the culprit. I found the track leading from the 12V rail
on the edge connector. It branched off into several directions, and I was without any circuit diagram etc.
I wouldn’t recommend it, but I made one or two cuts
in the track with a Stanley knife to isolate the problem.
There was a tantalum capacitor not far from the edge connector. Upon removing it, I found it was nearly a short
circuit. I replaced with a good one, replaced the regulator
and repaired the tracks.
The unit powered up fine; I didn’t do a “calibration”, but
I compared with the new machine, and it measured within
a fraction of a dB. It was still very useful for vehicles and
choppers etc in the field. I’m retired now, but the unit was
still going when I left.
I don’t know if that capacitor was the problem all along;
I have found faulty tantalum capacitors before in other
equipment, especially after a power surge. I would always
be wary of using them, especially when they are close to
a power input.
A. G., Jindalee, Qld.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Component lead failures in bench grinders
I recently received two small, identical 3-inch (76mm)
bench grinders after they stopped working. They were a
generic brand out of China meant for hobby use, for grinding and polishing.
Someone with a mechanical bent had opened them up
and pronounced they had black spots on the circuit boards;
something that was beyond his skills to repair. They were
passed to me as someone who knows about such things!
Inspection of the internals showed them to be quite wellmade with appropriately wired and insulated connections.
Apart from an On/Off switch, there was a starter capacitor and a small speed controller PCB. The board had a few
components around a variable resistor and a three-legged
semiconductor.
Fortunately, no attempt had been made to remove component numbers during assembly, as is often the case, so I
could see the three-pin device was a BT137 Triac. All fairly
standard stuff, I thought.
Close inspection of the boards showed the central or
anode pin of the Triac was damaged on both boards. In the
first instance, the lead was open-circuit where the right-
angle bend had been made in the lead to allow the Triac
to lie flat on the board after soldering.
No obvious cause for this was evident, other than perhaps damage caused when it was bent. I soldered a short
piece of wire from the stump of the lead to the board. On
application of power, the grinder worked again.
The second grinder had a slightly different fault. The
anode lead was intact at the bend, but where it entered
the board, the hole was blackened and the lead had broken
where it made contact with the solder in the hole.
The broken lead was still embedded in the solder on the
reverse of the board, with no sign of any soldering defects,
such as a dry joint. The blackening was probably the result
of arcing after the lead had broken. I cleaned up the solder,
remade the connection and tested it out.
This time, the grinder ran, but there was no speed control.
siliconchip.com.au
I replaced the Triac and, to be safe, I also replaced the Diac.
The grinder then successfully ran with speed control.
Why these leads broke is a mystery. My thought is that
they may have fatigued due to vibration. The grinders are
not that well-balanced and, at high speed, they vibrate
noticeably. The Triac is not secured to the board other than
by the leads, which may have put stress on the shortest
lead as it shook while operating.
Unfortunately, I could not drill the board and secure
the Triac by its mounting hole, as there were tracks on the
reverse side of the board in that area. Time will tell if my
theory on vibration is correct.
N. D., Ocean Beach, WA.
Another problematic grinder!
I was using my Ferrex 125mm angle grinder with a 1mm
cutting disc to cut some roofing sheets when it suddenly
stopped. I’d had this grinder for a year and I hadn’t had
any problems with it until then.
Had the power or extension lead failed? I plugged the
grinder directly into a working power point, but it still
didn’t work.
I removed the brush cover and then the side cover. I
could see the brushes were still in good order with plenty
left on them. I used my multimeter to test and there was
no problem there. Next, I tested the switch.
While holding the power button in, I checked for continuity between both sides of the switch and there was none,
so that was the problem, the switch had failed. This was an
Australia's electronics magazine
January 2025 93
unusual type of switch, an SPST momentary rocker. I did
not think I would have one in stock, but I checked anyway.
I went through my box of switches and I had many different types, but nothing remotely resembling this one. I
wondered if I could repair the switch, so I took it apart.
The fault was obvious.
The tiny contact had burnt. This switch is rated at 30A
32V DC and 16(14)A 250V DC. That rating is a figment of
someone’s imagination because there is no way that tiny
contact could carry that much current. No wonder it had
failed after just a year of occasional use.
A fine file quickly restored the contact, but there was no
way I could reassemble the switch. It was obviously assembled by a robot because there is no way a human could put
it together with all the small parts in it.
So it was time to find a replacement switch. I thought I
would ring the service centre number listed on the grinder.
The person I spoke to said he doubted they would have
internal parts for the grinder, but he would check and get
back to me, so I left my email address for him to contact me.
He said that they don’t have the switch. No surprise there,
as so many things these days are designed to be thrown
away and not repaired when they break.
While searching with Google, I spotted the exact same
switch from Altronics for $3.35. That was better, but the
postage was between $10 and $13, so that killed that idea.
However, my son mentioned that he would be going to
Brisbane that day, and it just happened that he would be
driving right past the Virginia store.
He said he could pick up my order, so I ordered three
switches (so I would have two spares).
The way it was originally put together, it had crimp
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Silicon Chip
terminals to join the Active wire from the switch to the
power cable, the switch to the motor and another crimp
terminal from the Neutral wire to the motor. I didn’t like
the idea of these crimp terminals. As the cable had some
minor damage (not affecting its safety), I decided to replace
it along with the switch.
There is no actual cable clamp, as the cable is held in
place by the moulded cable flexible strain relief. I started
by pulling out the wires, then I used a drill bit (by hand)
to remove the outer section of the original cable. I forced
the strain relief over the new cable and used superglue to
secure it. That works really well.
Next, I checked if the replacement switch would fit.
Luckily, it fitted easily with no modification needed. I
connected terminals to the wires to avoid soldering the
switch, as I was not sure if the plastic would melt if I soldered the wires to it.
I did away with the crimp wire joiners and instead soldered the wires and covered the joints with heatshrink tubing. This is the only power tool I have come across with
this type of joiner, and it’s a reflection of the quality of the
grinder. All my other power tools have wires long enough
to connect directly to the switch, and I think they all use
DPST switches as well.
The accompanying photo shows the inside of the switch
area of the angle grinder after replacing the faulty switch.
The broken switch and the crimp connectors can be seen
above the motor.
Like many power tools these days, this grinder is double-
insulated and so has no Earth wire connection. The replacement cable I used was three-core flex rated at 10A, the same
as the original cable. As the Earth wire was not used, I cut
it off. This was a spare cable I had saved from something
no longer in service.
I reassembled the grinder and tested it, and it was once
again working. I put it back into service and I’ve been using
it for several days now. Even though this was just a cheap
angle grinder, it was worth repairing it, as it was only the
switch that needed replacing.
There is some degree of satisfaction in being able to
repair something that is unrepairable because spare parts
are not available for it. Of course, a balance has to be struck
in that it can’t cost more to repair something than what it’s
worth. Otherwise, it’s better to just replace it. In this case,
I spent $3.35, a bit of time and a bit of heatshrink tubing
to repair a $30 tool.
This is not the first time I’ve repaired a power tool when
spare parts were not available for it. I have an XU1 angle
grinder that wore out a brush in the motor and I could not
get a spare part for it. However, I managed to track down
a replacement brush on eBay in England and repaired the
grinder and after several years; it’s still being used.
I also find replacement brushes on eBay when spare
brushes are not available. I have lost count of the number
of devices I’ve been able to repair and get back into working order at minimal cost.
B. P., Dundathu, Qld.
Ryobi lawn mower repair
I’ve fixed a lot of petrol-driven garden products in my
time. When petrol engines are running, they’re great. However, they can be painfully difficult to start, especially if
you don’t run them often.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
Years ago, I had a petrol chainsaw that I rarely used and
it would always take ages to get going. For that reason, I
used it less and less, so in the end I never really used it
even when I really needed it. On impulse one day I bought a
mains-powered chainsaw at auction and have never regretted it – you take it out of the cupboard, make sure there’s
chain oil in it, plug it in and start sawing.
Electric lawn mowers are nothing new – those Flymo
mains powered mowers were around when I was a kid, but
I always wondered how many minutes it would be before
I ran over the power cord.
Battery mowers have come a long way. A friend raved
about his 36V Ryobi mower when it came up in conversation, so when I drove past a Ryobi battery mower in a council clean-up, I immediately pulled over and had a look to
see if was worth taking. It all looked pretty complete except
for the key, so I threw it in the back of the car and took it
home. I wanted to try it out.
I own a few Ryobi 18V power tools; being able to swap
batteries between many different tools makes battery management much easier. This mower turned out to be an 18V
product, which was perfect for me, even if it wasn’t a 36V
one like my friend’s.
The first thing I did was bypass the ‘key’. Battery mowers
all seem to have a removable key that allows you to disable the motor – I expect this it so that toddlers can’t put
anyone in danger, including themselves. Luckily for me,
there are no toddlers living at my house, just the cat, and
he doesn’t like mowers at all.
The key just consists of a removable short circuit on a
couple of 6.3mm QC spades – it’s probably a blade fuse
in a special moulding. I used a fuel pump relay bypass
switch I made when I was trying to get my classic car
engine to start.
With my switch on and a battery in the socket, it was
no surprise that the motor wouldn’t run when I pulled the
run lever on the end of the handle bar. The lever felt pretty
floppy, and I didn’t think it was doing anything. However, I
decided to open the motor section and have a look at what
was under the cover.
It wasn’t too hard to open; just half a dozen or so Torx
screws, all the same size. It took a few minutes to find the
two underneath. Once I had them all out, the lid came
off and I could see a motor and a separate electronic
controller. The wiring was pretty straightforward, with
a pair of small gauge wires from the controller running
up to the switch.
Apart from a few blades of grass and some dirt, it all
looked good. I disconnected the plug to the run switch and
was very happy that when I shorted out the connector pins
on the controller with a piece of wire, the motor started.
So the problem was in the handlebar switch, or the wires
to it. The wires looked OK and, as I mentioned before, the
switch lever felt a bit floppy, so I took to the switch mechanism with the same Torx driver. Like the base, it came
apart pretty easily and I could see how it worked.
Two hands are required to operate the switch – there is a
switch plunger pushed by the lever, plus a button you have
to press to enable the plunger to move. I found I could run
the motor by manually activating the button and plunger
directly on the switch.
So what was wrong? The button was releasing the plunger
to move OK, but for some reason the lever wasn’t pushing
on the plunger. You have to be a bit patient with these mechanisms because you can never see them operating when
they’re assembled. I thought perhaps the switch mount had
broken and the switch had moved back, or something had
broken off the lever.
It took a bit of looking, but eventually, I found a threaded
hole in the end of the lever. I think there had originally
been an adjustment screw that has fallen out at some stage.
I found a self-tapping round-headed screw about the same
size in my scratch box, and without much trouble, soon
had the mechanism operating properly.
That was it. After reassembling the switch and putting
the cover back on the motor, I mowed until the battery went
flat, with no problems at all. Going forward, I just need to
figure out a better key/fuse arrangement.
It works really well. The battery doesn’t last too long, and
at 37cm, the cut is a bit narrower than the 46cm cut my petrol mower has, so it takes a few more passes. However, it’s
really quick to get out and start mowing, and lightweight,
so easy to push around. It would be great on a yard about
half the size of mine. I think a 46cm/36V version might be
the go, if I can find one...
SC
D. T., Sylvania, NSW.
Left: the workaround to the missing ‘key’.
Right: the internals of the Ryobi lawn mower.
siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
January 2025 95
Vintage Radio
The Monarch “All-American Five”
Wedge Radio
This “All American Five” design appeared in the late 1930s as
demand for cheap domestic radios took off. Accepting five valves as
necessary for a well-performing superhet radio, the “AA5” design
aimed to simplify the circuit as much as possible.
By Ian Batty
T
he most obvious first step was to
eliminate the power transformer.
That would make the radio lighter and
smaller. Being made for the common
US 110~117V AC supply, designers
chose to run the valve heaters in series
across the mains supply.
Astor’s Mickey OZ1 (up to Serial No
460) adopted such a design from one
intended for the US mains supply. As
the 12V series had not been released
at that date, the OZ used valves with
300mA heaters (6A7, 6D6, 6B6, 43,
25Z5).
The 43 and 25Z5 worked with 25V
heaters (to give a 50V drop in series),
96
Silicon Chip
but the remaining three only added
some 19V.
At around 69V in total, operating
from a 110V supply would demand
a series resistor to drop around 40V
– wasteful, but probably not unreasonable.
Australian releases ran on 240V and
needed a series resistor to soak up a
massive 170V. So Astor just popped in
a 580W dropping resistor, with a power
dissipation of over 50W!
Some US manufacturers, needing
to add voltage drops to meet their
110V mains, took the ingenious idea
of making the mains cord resistive.
Australia's electronics magazine
While it did work, it meant that to
replace the cord, either a cord with
identical resistance was required, or
the fitting of an actual resistor inside
the chassis. It also earned these
cords the nickname ‘curtain burner’
– hardly ideal!
One solution to the problem was to
use valves with 150mA heaters and
double the heater voltage to compensate. Many of the 6xxn series (6SA7,
6SK7 etc) were released in 12V versions by 1939. This change simply
required a different heater wire resistance: the rest of the valve was identical.
siliconchip.com.au
B7G miniatures (6BE6,
6BA6, 6AV6 etc) were also
re-engineered. While 12V signal valves could give sufficient emission (as the heater
power was still around 1.9W),
this would not give sufficient
emission for 12V/150mA output valves or rectifiers.
But since the heater string
needed to add up to the mains
voltage, why not design output
valves and rectifier heaters for
higher voltages?
This idea resulted in the 35V
35W4 with 5.25W of heater
power and the 50C5 with 7.5W
(in comparison, the 6X4 had
3.8W and the 6AQ5 2.8W). The
extra emission would help give
better performance at the low
anode voltages found in these
radios.
Philco’s PT44 used Loctal 7-series
valves with 6.3V, 150mA heaters for
the converter, IF amplifier and audio
preamplification, but glass octal valves
for the audio output (50L6GT) and
rectifier (35Z3). The total heater voltage only added up to 103V, so the dial
lamp, shunted by a resistor, made up
the rest.
Putting a dial lamp in series with
the heaters sounds like economy, but
a blown dial light would stop the radio
dead. Valves such as the 35W4 rectifier were designed with a heater tap
that created a suitable supply for the
dial lamp and used different resistance
values for the two ‘halves’ of the total
heater circuit.
While this worked, a blown dial
lamp would allow excessive voltage across its heater section, leading
to heater burnouts. If you are working on any All American Five, check
whether it has a dial light in the rectifier’s heater circuit and, if so, that
the lamp has the correct rating and
is working.
Having no mains transformer meant
half-wave rectification, with a resulting low HT supply; only 95V in the
PT44. Signal valves would work satisfactorily at such low supply, with
the 6BE6/12BE6 specified for 100V
operation with little reduction in performance. But the lowest HT specified
for the venerable 6V6 and its miniature equivalents was 180V.
Valve designers, needing to produce
high heater voltage types such as the
50L6, took the opportunity to redesign
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The Masonite rear panel has plenty of ventilation and a stuck-on
circuit diagram; not something you see these days, sadly.
the electrode structure, allowing the
50L6 to be fully specified with an HT
requirement of only 110V. While this
only offered some 2W of output, they
were used in economy mantel sets,
where this lower output power would
be acceptable.
Valves such as the 25Z5/Z6 were
designed with two completely isolated
rectifier diodes and were used as voltage doublers in some sets. This would
easily give the more usual HT of 250V,
but the extra complexity was against
the design concept of the AA5, and
was rarely used.
The direct-from-mains transformerless design meant that such sets
would run from either AC or DC supplies, and were often branded as AC/
DC sets. They would, confusingly,
sometimes not work on a DC supply
until the mains plug was removed and
flipped over. That is, until the positive
side of the mains connected to the rectifier’s anode!
DC operation often gave worse performance, as the filter circuit was not
being charged to the peak value of the
AC mains, around 150V, giving about
125V at the filter output for approximately 50mA of HT current.
The rectifier’s forward voltage drop
was only about 5V at the expected
current of 50mA. Starting with, say,
a 110V supply, the set would only be
getting some 105V of HT on DC mains.
Australia's electronics magazine
The Monarch AA5
The Monacor 5-1H shown on Radiomuseum bears serial number 319387.
Mine has no number, but if the serial
numbers for this basic design started
at one, there must have been around
400,000 made!
It’s a minimalist set. The combination of the low US mains voltage and
150mA heater currents allowed the
mains transformer to be eliminated.
However, making it work with an HT
as low as 100V would have been a challenge. Either the designers would need
to put in effort to deliver acceptable
performance, or buyers would need to
accept this was a ‘kitchen radio’ and
not expect outstanding performance.
It is compact – I have any number
of transistor radios that considerably
exceed its volume of a bit over 1600cc
(1.6L), and its weight of just under
1kg. The chassis weighs just 420g! Its
transformerless design makes it economical in use, consuming only 23W
when running.
The chassis underside photo is not
distorted; the chassis front is angled
to match the central depression in the
cabinet face.
Circuit description
The circuit is shown in Fig.1; it’s
a conventional five-valve superhet
using a pentagrid converter and simple
automatic gain control (AGC).
January 2025 97
Fig.1: the monarch “Wedge” circuit with suggested test points and expected voltages.
98
Silicon Chip
Australia's electronics magazine
12BE6 converter valve V1’s local
oscillator section uses the common
Hartley circuit, with cathode-to-gridone feedback and R1/C5 providing bias
for the local oscillator (LO) circuit.
The LO tuning section (C7) uses cut
plates, giving a different capacitanceto-rotation characteristic from that of
the antenna section (C4) and removing
the need for a padder capacitor.
The moving plates are identical for
both sections, so it’s the stationary LO
plates that have the cut profile.
The low HT voltage allows the converter screen to connect directly to HT,
rather than via the dropping resistor
used in most radios. The converter
runs without cathode bias, but the
high value of series resistor R3 allows
some contact potential effect. Added
to around -0.4V from the AGC circuit,
this sends the converter’s signal grid
to about -1.1V.
With no external antenna/ground
connection, this set relies on the effectiveness of its ferrite rod for signal
pickup. This proved to be quite short
compared to other sets, as shown in the
photo of the chassis taken from above.
The rod is original, and part has not
broken off, as you might think.
Unusually, the converter feeds to a
simple LC IF circuit (L3), then capacitively couples (via 30pF C8) to the IF
amplifier grid. IF amplifier valve V2, a
12BD6, has similar characteristics to
the better-known 6BA6/12BA6.
Like the converter, the IF amp runs
without cathode bias, but the combination of the AGC line’s -0.4V and contact potential bias across 1MW resistor R2 sends the 12BD6 signal grid to
around -1.1V (like the converter’s). The
IF amp feeds a conventional IF transformer (IFT1) with a tuned, untapped
primary and secondary and ferrite core
adjustments.
The signal from IFT1 feeds to both
diodes in V3, the demodulator/first
audio valve, a 12AV6. Capacitor C9
does the IF signal filtering, and the
audio signal is developed across
500kW volume control potentiometer VR1.
The AGC control voltage is picked
off and sent back to the IF amp and
converter via 2MW resistor R3, with
the audio signal filtered out by 50nF
capacitor C2.
The audio signal from the volume
control is fed to the 12AV6 triode’s grid
via 5nF capacitor C10. Contact potential bias for the V3 triode develops
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across 5MW resistor R5. The amplified audio output from its anode
is fed to output valve V4 via 5nF
capacitor C12, and any remaining IF signal is filtered out by
250pF capacitor C11.
The 50C5 output valve’s grid
returns to the chassis via R6,
and the stage is cathode-biased by
R7. Unusually, there is no cathode
bypass capacitor.
The circuit for a similar Monacor
set shows output transformer T1 with
a primary impedance of only 2.5kW,
further confirmation of the special
characteristics of the 50C5 and its
low-voltage applications. ‘Full HT’
types, such as the 6V6/6AQ5, commonly require load impedances in
the 5~6kW range.
The mains supply connects directly
to the anode of the 35W4 half-wave
rectifier (V5) and to the series heater
chain.
This chain has the rectifier first in
line, then the output valve. In common
with battery-powered sets, the 12AV6
audio amplifier is the last in the chain,
so that one side of its heater connects
to ground, minimising any induced
mains hum.
The 35W4 rectifier supplies a halfwave rectified output to the first filter capacitor, C15 (30μF). This point
directly supplies the output valve
anode. Although the supply is not
fully filtered, output pentodes are not
very sensitive to power supply hum.
This connection has the advantage of taking off the largest current
The top view of the chassis shows the very short ferrite
rod antenna, which gives mediocre performance
consumption before the series filter
resistor. To place the anode after the
filter would increase the filter’s voltage
drop by three or four times.
Although the filter resistor R8 has
a high resistance of 1kW, the current
drain from the converter, IF amp and
first audio is modest, so the filter only
results in an HT drop of about 30V.
The circuit diagram’s voltage callouts show the effect of AGC: on strong
signals, the reducing current draw
from the signal part of the converter,
plus the IF amplifier, allow the RF/IF/
Audio HT to rise by around 20V. Such
a voltage rise on strong signals is common, it’s just not often reported.
Point-to-point wiring is
used in the underside
of the “Monarch Wedge”
chassis, which truly is wedgeshaped.
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Australia's electronics magazine
The entire circuit is isolated from
the chassis metalwork. I have used
the ‘ground’ symbol for power and
signal returns. Capacitor C1 connects
the isolated ground to the chassis at
radio frequencies.
Restoration
The original figure-eight mains
cord had shed its insulation just as it
emerged from the chassis, shorting it
out. It’s a stark reminder to never just
plug in a set in unknown condition!
Fortunately, the mains cord was
secured by a two-part cord anchor,
so it was easy to replace the original
figure-eight with a new section and
secure it against movement.
Given the set’s age, I was a bit
apprehensive about the valves. Happily, all five tested good after a
bit of time on the tester. This is
a common as oxide-coated cathode formulations include barium,
a highly reactive element. Barium is so reactive that barium
powder scattered on a benchtop will spontaneously burst
into flames!
During manufacture, the applied
coating contains the metallic
oxides as inert carbonates. After
the envelope is evacuated, induction heating and heater activation achieve two outcomes: any
entrained gases in the structure
‘boil out’ and are drawn out with
the evacuation, and cathode carbonates reduce to oxides.
Normal operating temperatures
January 2025 99
maintain the oxide compounds, but,
on cooling, the highly reactive oxides
tend to absorb any residual gases
not already ‘cleaned up’ and oxidise
to more complex compounds. Such
absorption compromises the cathode’s emission and degrades performance – it’s known as cathode poisoning.
Rather than a random occurrence,
it’s common with valves that have
been left unused for extended periods. Fortunately, all that’s needed
in most cases is a few minutes of
normal operation, and the cathode
coating will reduce back to simple
oxides. ‘Rejuvenation’, a period of
over-running the heater, can accelerate the process.
The valve sockets all required a
good contact clean. I like to leave
the radio off, applying my BWD 216
0~400V power supply to the HT line
to test for electrolytic capacitor leakage. There was more than acceptable,
but I left power applied, and the current fell as the two filter capacitors
reformed.
It all seemed to be working OK, and
only needed an IF and antenna/LO
alignment. The IF was a bit off, but I
was able to calibrate it without difficulty. Remember that it’s important to
do this for a low output, maybe 10mW,
and to reduce the input signal to keep
the output low as the set comes into
full alignment.
This is because, with higher
level input signals, the AGC
action ‘mushes out’ the tuning
response, making the optimal
peak difficult to adjust to.
Like many sets, there’s no
effective antenna alignment at
the 600kHz end of the band, so
it’s a matter of tuning to 600kHz,
then tweaking the LO coil’s slug
and looking for an improvement
in sensitivity.
The top end had trimmers on
both antenna and LO sections.
I simply used the LO trimmer
to align to 1600kHz for full dial
rotation, then dropped back to
1400kHz for the antenna trimmer. As usual, I did both ends a
few times, as there is some interaction between adjustments.
cathode resistor. Popping in a 470μF
bypass cap brought the output stage
gain up by a factor of two, doubling
the sensitivity at every point, including RF sensitivity.
Unmodified, its sensitivity (for
a 50mW output) was 1.6mV/m at
600kHz and 550μV/m at 1400kHz. The
signal+noise-to-noise ratio was 20dB
or better in both cases.
The IF bandwidth was ±2.2kHz
at -3dB; at -60dB, it was ±39kHz.
The audio response from antenna to
speaker was 210-2500Hz, with a 2dB
peak around 1kHz. From volume control to speaker, the audio response was
240Hz to 10kHz. Total harmonic distortion (THD) at 50mW output was
8%. The maximum output was 0.9W
at 10% THD.
The signal sensitivity was a bit
underwhelming, and I suspect that
the main culprit is the very short ferrite rod antenna, combined with the
lack of cathode bypassing on the output valve.
My final test demands good reception from Warrnambool’s ABC station,
3WV, at 594kHz. It was present, but
only at full volume, and noisy.
This compact marvel is, indeed, just
what it appears to be: an economy ‘city
and suburbs’ radio.
Special handling
Although the chassis metalwork is
isolated from the chassis, this transformerless set presents an electrocution hazard.
Any work with power applied must
be done using an isolation transformer.
Be aware that variacs and other autotransformers do not give electrical
isolation.
Would I buy another?
I already have this example, but
I’m interested in the idea of mass-
produced minimalist radios.
To me, it’s a continuation of the
VE301 Volksempfänger (February
2023; siliconchip.au/Article/15671),
DKE38 Kleinempfänger (July 2017;
siliconchip.au/Article/10728) and
their English counterpart, the “Wartime Civilian Receiver Utility Set”.
Given that I only need the English
unit to make a complete set, I might
just check eBay once in a while.
Further reading
The set appears as the Monarch
Wedge on Radiomuseum (siliconchip.
au/link/ac1y).
There’s also a 220V version, which
looked identical at first glance. How
did they soak up the extra mains voltage? A series resistor? No. An old
and rarely used trick – pop in a series
capacitor with the required reactance!
Just 2.1μF will do. See siliconchip.au/
SC
link/ac1z
How good is it?
For what it’s meant to be, pretty
good. I did notice the lack of a bypass
capacitor across the output valve’s
100
Silicon Chip
Repairing the mains cord and cleaning the valve sockets had the radio
back to operating condition.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
ASK SILICON CHIP
Got a technical problem? Can’t understand a piece of jargon or some technical principle? Drop us a line
and we’ll answer your question. Send your email to silicon<at>siliconchip.com.au
Question about
FlexiDice project
I have just assembled the Flexi
Dice kit I received recently from you
(November 2024 issue; siliconchip.au/
Article/17022) and it is working well.
I noticed that there are SPK1 tracks
on the back panel. Was there a plan
to include a speaker? I also built the
Surf Sound Simulator from the same
issue, which works OK too. Thanks for
a couple more fun kits. (D. C., Beachmere, Qld)
● Thanks for the feedback. The
pads are for a small surface-mounting
speaker, but there was no intention
of the FlexiDice to have sound. We
thought that readers could use the
same PCB to make a small games console, in which case the speaker could
be used to provide sound. We may publish new firmware to do that at some
point in the future.
Is a Murphy Minstrel
radio worth restoring?
I found my very old Fisher and
Paykel M-401 radio hidden away and
was surprised to find it was still operable but it needs some TLC. It is the
1958 Murphy Minstrel model. I would
love to know if a Vintage enthusiast
think it worth restoring or if it is actually worth something. (J. N., Tauranga,
New Zealand)
● Associate Professor Graham
Parslow responds: Thanks for enquiring about your Fisher and Paykel
M-401 radio. The colourful New Zealand Bell radios are notably collectable. Radios that are not mainstream
tend to have low market value unless
you can find someone who has a sentimental attachment to that radio.
This is only a guess, but I think you
would struggle to get $100 unless you
found a keen buyer. The odd knob is a
value-killer, even though the rest looks
in fair condition. This does not mean
that you should not take on restoring
the radio as a project for yourself if
you have the skills.
siliconchip.com.au
When I declare something to be a
project, I discount all time and expense
because I am doing it for the satisfaction
of the restoration. There are keen restorers in NZ that could help you. However, why let anyone else have the fun?
NZ has produced a range of well-
regarded vintage radios and the favourite in my collection is the Cromwell.
You will enjoy having a visit to www.
vintageradio.co.nz – your radio is also
mentioned on that site.
Questions about Surf
Sound Simulator design
I was greatly taken by this project in
the November 2024 issue (siliconchip.
au/Article/17018) as it seems a great
improvement over another one by
Craig Sellen in Circuit Notebook, July
2011 (siliconchip.au/Article/1102). I
have a couple of questions about it.
Firstly, why use a BC549C in particular? Do high current gain transistors have higher noise levels in reverse
breakdown?
Due to the lesser availability of
non-polarised 33µF electrolytic capacitors, I recalculated the integrator
timing resistors for 22µF capacitors.
Would they be OK and should you
give these values as an option for constructors?
I changed the 680kW resistor to 1MW
(-1.96% compared to the calculated
value of 1.02MW). I changed the 330kW
resistors to 510kW (+3.03% compared
to the calculated value of 495kW). Furthermore, I changed the 150kW resistor to 220kW (-2.22% compared to the
calculated value of 225kW).
It seems that the very minor timing
errors for the triangle oscillators would
be negligible in this role. Would it be
better to go up to 1.1MW and 240kW
for the resistors with negative errors?
Also tried calculating resistor values for 47µF capacitors, but they are
much larger physically and the resistor
errors are larger (up to 5.03%). Congratulations on such an interesting
analog(!) project.
● BC549C transistors seem to be
better at generating more noise in
reverse breakdown compared to standard types. The circuit is easily experimented with by changing values, so
you can test your different values.
We suspect it would work much
the same as the original design with
22µF capacitors and those new resistor
values, but you should also scale the
100kW & 120kW resistors connecting
to IC1a & IC1d.
The slight drift between oscillators
gives a more realistic effect compared
to when there is a larger difference.
The Fisher &
Paykel M-401
“Murphy
Minstrel”
radio.
Australia's electronics magazine
January 2025 101
Regulator substitute for Vintage Radio Power Supply
I am trying to order the parts to build the Power Supply for Battery-Powered Vintage
Radios (December 2020; siliconchip.au/Article/14670). I have everything sorted
except the S-812C33AY-B2-U voltage regulator. It is only about $2 but the postage
from DigiKey or Mouser is prohibitive.
It looks like it is just a 3.3V low-dropout regulator. Can I just use a generic lowdropout regulator? Would a switch-mode regulator work instead?
I am also worried about having two Lithium-ion cells in parallel. If someone were
to put one cell in backwards, there would be a short-circuit and fireworks. Would
it be OK to put a PTC similar to the ones used for reverse polarity protection into
one of the links on the battery holder to prevent that? (P. C., Balgal Beach, Qld)
● We think a switch-mode regulator is overkill for this application. There are
two things to watch out for if substituting the 3.3V regulator:
1. The input voltage rating. It could have around 7.5V applied (two fully charged
Li-ion cells in series minus one diode drop), so a regulator with an input voltage
rating of, say, 6V would be inadequate.
2. The input and output capacitors are both 1μF ceramic types. Not all 3.3V
regulators will be stable under those conditions.
You could consider using an LP2950ACZ-3.3G from element14 (Cat 2845118).
It has a high maximum input voltage and is stable with 1μF of output capacitance.
The only problem is that its pinout is different, but it isn’t too difficult to bend the
leads of a TO-92 device to fix that.
The original regulator has a pinout (looking at its flat face with the leads at the
bottom) of GND, In, Out from left-to-right. The LP2950 is Out, GND, In. So you could
bend the left-most lead around the other two until it is on the right.
As for the cells, you are right that it would be bad if one were inserted backwards
compared to the other. You could just use one cell rather than two. Alternatively, a
500mA fast-blow fuse between the two positive cell connections could prevent any
high current flow for any significant length of time should one have reversed polarity.
Continued: using Vintage Radio Power Supply with one battery
Thanks for your help in getting my Vintage Radio Power Supply working with an
alternative regulator. I have now run into another problem. I decided to just use
one battery, so I removed the components not needed as per the text. However,
with no “A” battery, there is never any drive to Q8, so the circuit will not work. Is it
OK to just short out Q8? (P. C., Balgal Beach, Qld)
● Yes, you can short the collector-emitter of either Q7 or Q8 if you are only using
one battery. If only connecting the A battery to CON2, you should short the C-E of
Q8. If only connecting the B battery to CON1, short the C-E of Q7. That way only
one transistor has to be switched on to enable the outputs.
However, you may prefer the result
with your changes.
Troubleshooting the
30V 2A Bench Supply
I have built the October & November 2022 version of the 30V 2A Bench
Supply (siliconchip.au/Series/389).
Upon powering it up for testing and
calibration, some magic smoke may
have escaped, as the 100W resistor
appears slightly discoloured. I got a
reading of -2.9V at TP4, which rises to
almost zero, 27V at TP25, 2.5V at TP1
and -0.1V at TP2. Apart from TP25,
these are way out.
The limit LED comes on instantly
and, after a few seconds, the relay can
be heard and the load LED comes on.
The screen does not power up until
102
Silicon Chip
the unit is powered down. I checked
all component orientations and they
seem correct. Is there anything glaringly obvious to you? Any more tests
to reveal the fault? (J. S., Lidster, NSW)
● We suspect the wiring to voltage
taps on the transformer are incorrect,
since there should be -8V at TP4 if the
transformer connections are correct.
Presumably you managed to obtain
the correct transformer specified in
the parts list. We published a revised
version of the supply after the stocks
for the original transformer became
exhausted (September & October 2023;
siliconchip.au/Series/403).
Both 100W resistors shouldn’t draw
any significant current as they each
have a 100kW resistor in series across
the 25V supply. We can’t see how they
would overheat unless the associated
Australia's electronics magazine
100kW resistor is the incorrect value.
If the display only lights when the
supply is switched off, that suggests
the wiring to the display is incorrect.
Check the MV+ and VS+ wiring at
CON5. Also check the transformer
AC voltages.
We found on the transformer we
purchased for the prototype, the order
of the terminals was different to the
specification. Check that the voltages
at each secondary transformer tab
increment correctly; they should be 0,
18, 24 and 30V. If it is otherwise, the
supply will not work properly.
Alternative for
Currawong transformers
I had this wild idea of making a
valve amplifier and decided to have
a go at the Currawong (November
2014 to January 2015; siliconchip.au/
Series/277). I believe there was a kit,
but it seems to no longer be available,
so I decided to build it from scratch.
Then I discovered that the original
toroidal transformers and the recommended substitute are unobtainable.
Do you have any ideas for replacements, or is it a lost cause? (M. C. P.,
Armidale, NSW)
● We don’t think it will be too difficult to find a transformer to power the
Currawong. You just need secondary
windings totalling close to 116V AC
for the HT, at around 100VA, and 12V
AC at around 24VA for the rest of the
circuitry. The only other requirements
are that they have 230V primaries and
will physically fit in the box.
We found one possible option from
element14 (1785735). It’s rated at
100VA with both 115V and 230V primaries. It has two 115V secondaries
that you could connect in parallel and
then between pins 1 and 3 of CON7.
Then you just need to add a small 12V
transformer like Altronics M4912C or
element14 1785738 to wire to CON8.
Capacitor Leakage
Meter troubleshooting
I have assembled your Capacitor
Leakage Meter from December 2009
(siliconchip.au/Article/1657). When
the test leads are shorted together, all
ranges from 10V to 50V work fine, giving 1mA <at> 10V, 1.6mA <at> 16V, 2.5mA
<at> 25V, 3.5mA <at> 35V and 5mA <at> 50V.
However, for the 63V and 100V
continued on page 104
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6. An LG BP125 Blu-Ray player ($75).
7. A Toshiba SD-2500 DVD player
($40).
8. A Hantek DSO-2250 USB PC
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channels, plus an operating manual
and a small software CD ($50).
All of the above are available to be
picked up from my home in Arncliffe,
Sydney.
Also available are quite a few mini
file drawers with electronic components
such as capacitors, resistors, transistors,
ICs, LEDs and diodes, etc. These I'd be
happy to give away if someone would
be prepared to call and take them away.
Please contact me by email to
jimrowe<at>optusnet.com.au if any of
the above is of interest.
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WARNING!
Silicon Chip magazine regularly describes projects which employ a mains power supply or produce high voltage. All such projects
should be considered dangerous or even lethal if not used safely. Readers are warned that high voltage wiring should be carried
out according to the instructions in the articles.
When working on these projects use extreme care to ensure that you do not accidentally come into contact with mains AC
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you are advised not to attempt work on them. Silicon Chip Publications Pty Ltd disclaims any liability for damages should anyone
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siliconchip.com.au
Australia's electronics magazine
January 2025 103
ranges, I only get 5mA or so test current for both. It should be 6.3mA for
63V and 10mA for 100V. What should
I do? (A. J., via email)
● The test voltages at those settings
could be incorrect, or the step-up circuit isn’t able to supply enough power.
Check the open-circuit voltage with
a multimeter to see if 63V and 100V
are being generated. If not, check the
divider resistors at pin 5 of IC1 for
correct values.
If the voltages are correct, then with
the multimeter connected to the battery ground and the positive test terminal, short the test terminals. The
voltage shouldn’t drop. If it does, perhaps the windings on transformer T1
are incorrect or the insulation on the
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Altronics.................................23-26
Beware! The Loop......................... 8
Blackmagic Design....................... 5
Dave Thompson........................ 103
Emona Instruments.................. IBC
Jaycar............................. IFC, 51-54
Keith Rippon Kit Assembly....... 103
Lazer Security........................... 103
LD Electronics........................... 103
LEDsales................................... 103
Microchip Technology.............OBC
Mouser Electronics....................... 3
OurPCB Australia........................ 11
PCBWay......................................... 7
PMD Way................................... 103
SC Bridge Rectifiers.................... 83
Silicon Chip PDFs on USB......... 50
Silicon Chip Shop................ 67, 77
Silicon Chip Subscriptions........ 59
The Loudspeaker Kit.com............ 9
Used Gear.................................. 103
wires has not been properly scraped
off where it is soldered to the PCB.
How to add a volume
control to any amplifier
My question is around fitting a
potentiometer for volume control on
the Hummingbird Amplifier (December 2021; siliconchip.au/Article/
15126). I bought a single kit of the
Hummingbird Amplifier from Altronics (Cat K5158). I have been through
the instructions and read the last two
pages about setting it up. I just want
to set it up and run it with one channel of audio from ±15V DC.
I bought a 30V centre-tapped transformer (Jaycar MM2005). I have built
the Universal Power Supply board and
I’m going to run it with the ±15V DC
configuration.
Where do I fit a potentiometer to
control volume? I couldn’t see any
mention of this in the instructions. Do
I need to buy a separate volume control module? (E. M., Hawthorn, Vic)
● Referring to the accompanying
circuit:
1. Connect the input signal ground
to the ground of CON2.
2. Connect the input signal conductor to the clockwise end of the potentiometer track (‘B’) via a series capacitor. With the pot shaft facing you and
the pins down, this will be the righthand pin.
3. Connect the pot wiper (middle
pin, ‘W’) to the signal input terminal
on CON2.
4. Connect the remaining pot pin
(‘A’) to the signal ground (either at
CON2 or the input connector, whichever is convenient).
The value required for the series
capacitor depends on the potentiometer value. For example, if using a
10kW potentiometer, use a minimum
of 2.2µF (we’ve shown it as 10µF in the
circuit, which allows a non-polarised
electrolytic to be used). You could use
a 2.2µF greencap or similar.
You can get away with lower values
Next Issue: the February 2025
issue is due on sale in newsagents
by Thursday, January 30th. Expect
postal delivery of subscription
copies in Australia between January
24th and February 7th.
Silicon Chip
SMD markings are
inconsistent
I bought the SC6988 SMD kit for the
Discrete Ideal Bridge Rectifier (September 2024 issue; siliconchip.au/
Article/16580). I got a bit stuck trying to identify the numerous SOT-23
parts. The confusing aspect is that if
you search for a BC856, for example,
you might find a package code of “3D”,
depending on the variant, not “9AC”.
By searching on the package codes,
I think I have correctly identified the
parts – it would be useful for others
to have these codes – providing you
continue to provide the same variants
in the kit.
Qty Code Device
2
1D
MMBTA42
2
2D
MMBTA92
4
9AC BC856CMTF
4
1C
BC847C
4
Y2
BZT52C12/BZX84C12
Is that correct? (I. T., Duncraig, WA)
● The codes you list look correct.
It is unfortunate that the same part
from different manufacturers can have
different markings. Each part should
ideally have a standard marking for a
given package. The BC84x we supply
is actually a BC846C and it is indeed
marked 1C.
We have BC856Cs marked both 15S
and 9AC; obviously, the latter is what
we used for your kit. Y2 is the code
listed in the Fairchild data sheet for
the BZX84C12. Our supplier lists the
MMBTA42 as 1D (the ST Micro data
sheet says it can also be A42) and
MMBTA92 can be 2D or A92.
SC
You can
add a
volume
control
to most
amplifier
modules
like this.
Wagner Electronics..................... 10
104
if the pot resistance is higher, but don’t
make it too high, or it will introduce
noise. 5-20kW is ideal for a low-noise
amplifier, although value at the lower
end of that range will load the signal source more. Most modern signal
sources shouldn’t be bothered by that.
If any of this requires significant
cable runs, use shielded cable. You
can use the shield to make the ground
connections.
Australia's electronics magazine
siliconchip.com.au
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